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Skin tightening
Skin layer grown in lab could replace animal testing
New LipoTripsy Face Firmer proves popular
The first lab-grown epidermis has been developed by a team led by King’s College London and the San Francisco Veteran Affairs Medical Centre (SFVAMC). According to the research team, the epidermis could help to develop new therapies for rare and common skin disorders such as ichthyosis and atopic dermatitis, while offering an alternative lab model to animals for testing drugs and cosmetics in other countries. King’s College London team leader, Dr Dusko Ilic, explained that human epidermal equivalents representing different types of skin could be grown and tailored to study a range of skin conditions. He said, “Atopic dermatitis affects more than 20% of the population and was treated for years as a disorder of the immune system, usually treated with topical and sometimes systemic corticosteroids. Only recently, it was discovered that the actual underlying cause is a defective permeability barrier in the skin.” The barrier lets through pathogens from the environment and the body reacts negatively to this. “The defective barrier is due to mutations in genes involved in barrier formation and it will be easy to make a skin model from stem cells carrying such mutation. Barrier defect in our lab model will mirror defects in the human skin and numerous new treatments can be tested in order to improve the quality of the barrier,” said Dr Ilic. The new study uses human induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSC) to produce an unlimited supply of pure keratinocytes – the predominant cell type in the outermost layer of skin. They closely match keratinocytes generated from human embryonic stem cells (hESC) and primary keratinocytes from skin biopsies. These keratinocytes were then used to manufacture 3D epidermal equivalents in a high-to-low humidity environment to build a functional permeability barrier, essential in protecting the body from losing moisture and preventing the entry of chemicals, toxins and microbes. To explain their progress, Dr Ilic said to imagine the permeability barrier as a roof on a house. While the roof protects the house from the environment and rain coming in, the skin protects the body from the environment and losing water. He said, “We are the first who have succeeded to make a ‘roof’ of such good quality. Other groups built ‘houses’, though the roofs were always leaky and could not be used as dependable models for testing drugs.” Although testing cosmetics on animals is banned in the European Union, it still takes place in the US and China. Dr Ilic claims companies are looking for alternative solutions they can use to test and develop new ingredients. “The human epidermal equivalents that we have generated might present the best available answer at this moment,” he said. A comparison between the epidermal equivalents and normal human skin showed no significant differences in structure or functional properties. The research team are currently in discussion with several companies who are interested in implementing their model. “We are optimistic and glad that the work caught the attention of the right people in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry,” said Dr Ilic.
Face Firmer is a new application for the Lipotripsy system, which the manufacturers claim will promote cell renewal to improve skin density and elasticity and reduce wrinkle depth. Lipotripsy, which uses radial wave therapy and aims to aid fat breakdown, collagen synthesis and lymphatic drainage, has had a lot of coverage in the consumer press since its launch and has proved a popular treatment for cellulite reduction and body shaping. Face Firmer uses the same radial wave technology as the cellulite treatment, but the facial applicator has been adapted to penetrate less deeply into the skin. Face Firmer is proving to be popular among patients according to some aestheticians, who have added the procedure to their clinic offering. Jill Zander, of the Jill Zander Skin Rejuvenation Clinic in Esher, who has taken on the treatment, said, “The new Lipotripsy Face Firmer treatment has been very well received in my clinic. This non-invasive treatment harnesses acoustic wave technology to stimulate collagen synthesis making the skin look firmer and smoother.” Jim Westwood, MD of Spectrum Medical Innovations Ltd, creators of LipoTripsy, explains, “Lipotripsy Face Firmer Treatment is a pioneering new painless and non-invasive treatment that promotes the production of collagen and elastin to lift and tighten the skin. “We are very excited to launch Lipotripsy Face as it complements our current body sculpting and cellulite treatment and allows clinics to offer Lipotripsy from the face down to the feet.” Supplements
Aesthetic Source to distribute Aneva Derma A collagen boosting drink supplement is to be distributed in the UK and Ireland, exclusively by Aesthetic Source. The nutraceutical drink, Aneva Derma, contains Arthred – a hydrolysed powdered collagen that is clinically proven to support, maintain and promote cartilage tissue throughout the body. Director of Aesthetic Source, Lorna Bowes, said, “This is an exciting time for Aesthetic Source as we expand our product portfolio. Aneva Derma fits our criteria of being clinically proven and science driven.” Bowes said that it would also compliment Aesthetic Source’s skincare brands, NeoStrata and Exuviance. The product, that should be consumed once a day, claims to improve skin elasticity and density as well as enhancing the effects of medical aesthetic treatments. A UK-based study testing these claims is underway, with the 10-week interim data set to be presented at FACE later this month. “Aneva Derma will be supported by strong training, marketing and PR campaigns together with focused customer support activities,” said Bowes.
Aesthetics | July 2014
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