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SEPTEMBER 2012 Issue 7

Green Is GOod 绿色的生活

Redressing Consumerism

“再生时尚”消费主义

China’s Disturbia Artists 中国梦想艺术家

Rivers to Fjords — Yangshuo and Sweden 从河流到峡湾 – 阳朔和瑞典游记

Ethan Li: “Dancing Within a lens” 李东学:带着镣铐舞蹈” Rise of the Bloggers

博客主的春天

INSPIRE YOUR WORLD

Every Last Grain: Meet Foodlink 最后的粮食:对话膳心连


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29/06/2012

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Aeris what’s in?

September 2012

Perspective 视野 08 56

Redressing Consumerism “再生时尚” 消费主义 Dancing Within a Lens: Ethan Li 带着镣铐舞蹈: 李东学

62 64

Foodlink: Every Last Grain 最后的粮食 The Vegetarian Debate 素食主义之辩

DESIGN 设计 38 48 50

Fall for Him & Her 男人和女人的秋天 Watches of the World 世界的手表 Reduce, Reuse, Recycle Guide 再用和循环再用的时尚指导

51 82 86

Recycled Paper Frames 环利用纸制镜框 At Home in the Hutongs 胡同巷里的家 Interior Eye 室内设计的眼睛

WORLD 旅行 13

Finding Neverland, Glimpsing Guilin 寻找梦幻之 ——桂林小记

18 89

Spectacular Sweden 魅力瑞典 AERIS Talks to the Bouey Brothers AERIS 对话 Bouey 兄弟

CULTURE 文化 28 AERIS Talks to Michael Wong AERIS对话Michael Wong为了对摄影的热爱 32 Rise of the Blogger 博客主的崛起 42 AERIS Talks to Ricky Lo AERIS对话Ricky Lo 70 China’s Disturbia Artists 中国梦想艺术家


The Team Amanda Siew Founder

Grace Brown EDITOR-IN-CHIeF

Amanda is an aspiring dermatologist who

Grace graduated with double Bachelors

recently completed her degree in Medicine

of International Studies Law from Sydney

& Surgery in England. Raised in London

University.

and Hong Kong, she started working

experience at Star World, APV, Channel

as a part-time model with Elite Model

Seven, CNN and Bloomberg. Raised

Management at the age of 16. Drawing on

in Hong Kong, Grace speaks fluent

her experiences in modelling, fashion and

Mandarin

internet publishing, she founded AERIS

business, people, fashion and art.

She

and

gained

is

journalistic

passionate

about

Magazine in 2010.

她最近在英国完成了医药及内外全科医 学士学位,是一个有志向的皮肤科医生。她在伦敦和香港长 大,十六岁时以在Elite Model Management 当兼职模特儿开 始她的事业。得到模特儿、潮流时尚和网页出版的经验,她 在2010年创办了Aeris Magazine.

在悉尼大学的国际研究及法律双学位毕 业。她在Star World, APV, Channel Seven, CNN和 Bloomberg得到了资讯传播的经验。在香港长大,Grace能说流利的 普通话和对商业、人物、潮流和艺术充满热情。

Sophie Bent Communications Director

Caroline Gui CHINA EDITOR

Sophie was born and raised in Hong

Caroline was born and raised in Hunan

Kong, before graduating with a Master

province, and later moved to Shanghai.

of Strategic Public Relations from the

She is studying Advertising in The Chinese

University of Sydney. With a passion for

University of Hong Kong. As a Mandarin,

hiking, politics and new places, her work

English and Cantonese speaker, she enjoys

experience includes Burson-Marsteller,

writing and translating, gaining experience

Hong Kong Disneyland and Mandarin

at Xin Hua News Agency. She loves branding,

Oriental, Hong Kong.

ancient Chinese literature and travelling to unheard of places in China.

在悉尼和波士顿完成商业学士学位之前,在香港出生和长 大。她现在正在读策略性公共关系硕士。她的工作经验包括 Burson-Marsteller, Hong Kong Disneyland, Hongkong Land, Jardine Airport Services Group and the Mandarin Oriental.

C a ro l i n e 在 湖 南 出 生 长 大 , 后 迁 居 上 海。如今在香港中文大学修读广告学硕士。她会说普通话、 英语和粤语,擅长写作、翻译,曾在新华社获得过记者经 验。她热爱品牌策划和中国古典文学,并喜欢探索旅行中国 鲜为人知的地方。

FOUNDER: Amanda Siew EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Grace Brown Deputy Editor: Chong Shao Perspective Editor: Chong Shao Travel Editor: Chong Shao Food Editor: Christopher Sim Fashion Editor: Grace Brown Contributing Writers: Sophie Bent, Sarah Spencer

Chinese Editor: Caroline Gui

Managing Director: Cherry Ng

Communications Director: Sophie Bent

DESIGN EDITOR: Jessica Li


Chong Shao Deputy Editor

Cherry Ng MANAGING Director

Chong holds Arts and Law degrees from

Cherry was born in Hong Kong but

the University of Sydney and is currently

has lived in Sydney, York (UK), Beijing,

studying psychology. He has, along with

and Lima. As a Cantonese, English and

a passion for writing, an unusual fondness

Mandarin speaker she enjoys learning

for editing and proofreading. Always

about different cultures and travelling. She

keen to learn and experience new things,

enjoys salsa dancing and meeting new

Chong’s interests include travel, philosophy

people. Her work experience has ranged

and jamming with friends.

from selling in the top recyclable ink cartridge company in China to caregiving

Chong在在悉尼大学获得了艺术与法律

文凭,现正在进修心理学。他对写作抱有很高的热情,并 同时嗜好编辑和校对。他总是喜爱学习和接触新事物,他 的兴趣包括旅行,哲学,与朋友相处。

for children in Peru.

她在香港出生,但曾在悉尼、纽克、北京及利马居住。能说 广东话、英语及普通话,她享受学习新文化和旅游。她也享 受跳萨尔萨舞及结识新朋友。她的工作经验的范围包括从在 中国顶尖的可回收墨盒公司当销售到在秘鲁照顾小孩。

Jessica Li Design Editor

Christopher Sim FOOD EDITOR

Jessica was born and raised in Hong

Christopher is an engineer with a passion

Kong. She has recently graduated from

for food and travel who formerly wrote

Central Saint Martins College of Art and

for the Imperial College newspaper.

Design with a degree in Graphic Design

Having lived in London and Melbourne

and illustration, and now works as a

he is now living in Amsterdam and

freelance designer. She’s interested in the

writes in between international projects

visual language behind different cultures.

as a chemical engineer.

在香港出生及长大,她正在伦敦的中央 圣马丁艺术与设计学院修读插畫及图像 设计。她是一个自由设计师,并且对不同文化背后的视觉语 言怀有浓厚兴趣。

是一个对美食及旅游充满热情的工程 师,并曾经为伦敦帝国学院校报撰写文 章。曾在伦敦及墨尔本居住的他现居于阿姆斯特丹。作为一 个化学工程师,他不时为国际计划撰写文章。

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CONTRIBUTORS BOB Tianchen, Editor

Sherry Duan, Editor

Bob is a first year business student from the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. He is an enthusiastic member of the AERIS team and is interested in the latest food, travel and technology trends.

Born and raised in China, Sherry is currently pursuing her Bachelor’s Degree in Education in Hong Kong. Her passion for words developed from reading with her grandfather and has grown deeper since. Apart from this, she also loves fashion, travel, food and drama! Her previous working experience includes Crossroads Foundation and UNESCO (HK).

Bob是来自香港科技大学一年级的商学院学生,他是 AERIS团队具有热情的一份子,对最新的美食、旅游 以及科技的趋势非常感兴趣 。

出生并成长在中国,Sherry现在正在香港攻读教育本科学 位。她对文字的热忱来自于早年和外公一起读书看报的时 光;随着时间,她对文字的这一热忱越发的强烈。除此之 外,她还喜欢时尚,旅游,美食和戏剧!她的工作经历包 括国际十字路会和联合国教科文组织(香港分会) 。

Adrienne Chiu, Perspective Contributor

Farah Malik, Interiors Contributor

Adrienne is a University of California, Berkeley senior majoring in Media Studies. Born and raised in the US, she has also lived in Singapore and Hong Kong and speaks English, Cantonese, Mandarin, and some French. Her passions include photography, literature, fashion, writing, and international cuisines. She loves learning about cultures and hopes that her future studies and work will take her around the world.

Born in the Middle East and raised in Hong Kong, Farah’s passion for design derives from her father’s work in the hospitality industry, resulting in consistent exposure to beautiful spaces. She studied Interior Design at the Art Institute of Vancouver and currently works as a colour and design consultant for Benjamin Moore in Vancouver.

Adrienne是一名来自加州大学伯克利分校主修传媒的大学三 年级学生。生于美国长于美国的她也曾在新加坡和香港居住 过。她会说英语、广东话、普通话以及一些发育。她热衷于 摄影、文学、时尚、写作和世界各地的美食。她热爱了解不 同的文化,希望她未来的学习和工作能让她环游世界。

她父亲在服务业的工作,而这使得她接触了许多完美空

出生于中东地区,在香港长大。Farah对设计的热情来自 间。她在加拿大的温哥华艺术学院学习室内设计,如今在 温哥华的Benhamin

Moore公司工作,是一名色彩和设计

顾问。

Dan Lim, Travel Contributor

Disha Daswaney, Fashion Contributor

Since moving from Malaysia to Australia at the age of one, Dan has always been interested in seeing the world and discovered travel after graduating from Sydney Law School. A passionate dancer, singer, songwriter, actor, musical director, note-taker and lawyer, he is now a solicitor at Clayton Utz and spent last year as Associate to Justice Yates of the Federal Court of Australia. His dream is to be Australia’s first Chinese High Court judge — and maybe its first pop star, too... Dan在一岁时从马来西亚搬到了澳大利亚。他一直对旅行充满兴

Born and raised in Hong Kong, Disha is currently studying at German Swiss International School. Her passion for the arts is derived from her love of dancing. From a young age she has shown an interest in fashion. She has written fashion articles for The Common Room Newspaper (GSIS’s Newspaper) and contributed to Verve’12 (GSIS’s fashion show). She was also apart of the GSIS Podcast and contributed to the fashion segment. Having attended GSIS for 15 years she speaks fluent German.

趣,在从悉尼法学院毕业之后也一直在四处旅行。他是一位热情的

生于香港长与香港的Disha现在在德国瑞士国际学校读书。她

舞者、歌手、作曲家、演员、音乐剧导演、记录人和律师。他现在

对艺术的热情来源于她所热爱的舞蹈。很小的时候她就显示出

是克莱顿尤治律师事务所的初级律师,去年在澳大利亚联邦法院担任初级律师。他的梦想是成

了对时尚的兴趣。她为学校的报纸The Common Room Newspaper撰写过关于时尚的文

为澳大利亚的第一个中国法官,或是第一个流行明星。

章,并且参与了学校的时装秀Verve’12。她同样是学校播客的一员,负责时尚版块。

ON THE

COVER Ricky Lo Ricky is an international award-winning photographer who is absolutely passionate about fashion, styling as well as photography. The 25 year-old graduated in 2011 from the HK Polytechnic University. His photography has been awarded and exhibited in London, New York, Berlin and Italy. Ricky’s goal is to reinvigorate raw creativity in the fashion and advertising industries.

Ricky是一位多次在国际上获奖的摄影师,对时尚、造型以及摄影充满热情。今年 25岁的他2011年从香港理工大学毕业。他的摄影作品在伦敦、纽约、柏林和意 大利都有展出并获奖。Ricky的理想是重新激发时尚也和广告业最原始的创新。 http://www.rickylo.net


亲爱的读者们你好,

and welcome to AERIS autumn issue!

欢迎光临AERIS秋季专刊。

For too long, the idea of being ‘green’ has been isolated from the idea of being fashionable. And when finally seen as fashionable, it has often been only for a moment. This September — a time of new beginnings and the ‘January’ of fashion — we hope to unite the two in a more enduring way.

在之前很长一段时间内,绿色的生活概念都

Thinking about the rest of the planet and how much we really need to be happy goes beyond a trend. From our diet (as we explore in our vegetarian debate, on p. 64), to our wardrobe (as Christina Dean, Redress Founder, explains on p. 8), sustainability is a way of life.

讨论)到我们的衣橱(p.8 红十字会创

与时尚无关。而当其终于变成了一种时尚, 却通常只是短暂一瞬。在这个被誉为时尚新 起点的九月,我们希望能把这二者用一种更 持久的方式结合起来。 顾及地球所剩下的资源,并思考到底我们获 取多少才能到达幸福,已经仅仅是一个趋势 了。从我们的饮食(p.64 关于素食主义的 办者的建议),可持续性变成了一种生活方 式。 这期主题“green is good”是从电影《华尔 街》中 Gordon Gekko 的台词 “greed is

good” 演变而来的。而在上世纪八十年代,

The theme “green is good,” is a play on the words of Gordon Gekko in Wall Street: “greed is good.” Since the 1980s, the latter was perhaps more fashionable. From conditional development ‘aid’ to the dawn of derivatives, the world saw widespread deregulation, growing debt and (often premature) market liberalisation — to the advantage of the most powerful players in the wealthiest countries. The philosophy prevailed until September 2008, when greed failed the world and the Global Financial Crisis began. Four years later, people everywhere — from boutiques in New York, to factories in Shenzhen — are still coping with the consequences.

助“,到金融工具的衍生,世界经历了广泛 的放松管制,日益严重的债务和早熟的市场 自由化 - 最强大的球员的优势,在最富裕的 国家。 直到四年前,2008年9月 - 当贪婪导致世 界的失败,全球金融危机开始。一直到现 在,每个地方的每个人 ,无论在纽约的精品 店,还是在深圳的工厂 ,都 仍然处于应对 危机后果的困境之中。 然而,只有在黑暗中,我们才能看到星星。 自二战结束以来,不同国家的人们第一次被 共同的疼痛,也是共同的决心联系在一起, 决心永远不再重蹈覆辙。在后GFC时代,贪 婪再也不可能被隐藏在魅力身后。 经历了数十年的模式,“绿色生活“终将成

Yet only in darkness, do we see the stars. For the first time since the end of World War II, people of every nation are bound by shared pain, but also shared determination, to never repeat what led us here. In the post-GFC era, greed can no longer hide behind glamour. After decades of disregard, ‘green’ could be the one style that stays…

为长久的生活方式…

Xo Caroline and Grace

September 2012

后者应该更为时尚。从有条件的发展“援

Foreword

Hello readers,


Redressing Consumerism

“ ” 再 生 时 尚 消 费 主 义

Adrienne Chiu talks to Redress Founder Christina Dean about why ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ need not be mutually exclusive concepts — and why it is more economical to be environmentally chic… 阿德里恩·邱对话“再生时尚”创始人克里斯汀娜·迪恩,探讨 为什么时尚和可持续发展的两个概念不需要互相排斥 – 以及为 什么生存比环保别致更经济。

8


PERSPECTIVE

What led you to create Redress? Why did you decide to focus on Asia? When I moved to Asia with my husband and family, I was looking at the pollution with very virgin eyes. I was massively concerned, and as a result set up a charity in 2007. Previously we were called Green2Greener, but my initial concept for the organisation was not what it is today. The reason we started Redress was because the fashion industry is so significant in China and such a vast amount of pollution comes from that one industry. It seemed more effective to streamline our approach to just one industry and do it well, than try to focus on everything.

Esprit is the first retailer to use the R Certificate — what is the next step for getting individual designers and larger retailers to adopt it? The R Certificate is definitely one of the best things we do because it makes something massively complex fabulously easy for consumers to understand. We are talking to some very big retailers about using it, but nothing is confirmed yet because it’s a long, complex process to work with a new brand. However the feedback has been quite mind-blowing in terms of what it could do for the industry, but obviously it hasn’t happened yet. For small designers it’s not really suitable because there is a minimum size and order, smaller than which it’s not worth it because they have to collect and recycle their own waste.

Which material will have the largest impact and the largest growth — recycled fibres or sustainably grown cotton? I think it has to be a combination of the two. We did a survey last year on international designers’ and buyers’ attitudes towards sourcing sustainable textiles from China. They thought that the biggest emerging trend coming out of China would be recycled fibre as opposed to sustainable raw material fibre. I am much more fixated on recycled fibres, because I think that the technology is improving, the suppliers are producing really good fabrics, and it’s a great way to clean up the industry. The only problem is when you combine or confuse pre-consumer waste that’s recycled and post-consumer waste that’s recycled. You cannot mix the two — I feel very strongly about that because there’s a huge hygiene issue there. It was one reason we created the R Certificate — to strongly differentiate between pre- and post-consumer.

是什么引发你创建“再生时尚”?为什么你会选择 注重亚洲时市场? 当我和我的丈夫,家人搬来亚洲的时候,我才第一 次接触污染。我对这个问题十分关注,并在2007年 时设立了一个慈善机构。之前,我的这个机构一直 叫做“更绿”,但是随着时间,我最初设立这个机构时 的概念改变了。我创办“再生时尚”的初衷是因为 时尚产业成为中国的一大产业。而与此同时,这产 业带来的了大量的污染。因此,为了协助处理这个 问题,改变处理问题的方法,使其更加适合一个特 定的产业而不是面面俱到各个产业似乎更加合理。 Esprit是第一个响应号召采用R认证的零售商— 那么 接下来,会有哪些措施来吸引更多个体设计师和比 较大型的零售商来加入到这个行列中? R认证是我们所做的事中最好的之一,因为我们使得 原本对于消费者来说是十分难理解的原理变得简单 易懂。我们现在正在和一些大牌零售商商讨R认证的 运用,但到目前为止,还没有任何确认的合作。和 一个新的品牌合作是一个长期而又复杂的过程。尽 管这样,我们从他们那边获得了许多有益的反馈, 而这都加深了我们对于这一举措可以为时尚产业带 来的好处。当然,这一切都还未实实在在地发生。 对于个体,独立运作的设计师来说,这一举措还不 是特别合适,他们的订单等的数量都比较小,因 此要求他们收集回收自己制造的废品还不是特别合 理。 你觉得哪一种原料会有更大的增长以及影响 — 循环 再用的纤维还是采用可持续发展种植方式的棉花? 还是说其它的原料? 我觉得这将会是两者的一个结合。去年,我们做 了一个关于国际设计师和购买者对于来自中国的可 持续纺织品原材料的态度的调查。我们得出的结论 是,他们认为中国的最大新兴趋势是循环再用的纤 维,而不是采用可持续发展技术的原料棉花。对于 我来说,我更倾向与循环再用纤维,因为我认为随 着现代技术的发展,供应商都能生产出质量上乘的 纤维,而使用循环再用纤维可以很好清理这个行业 本身的原料和废料。唯一的问题是当生产者将生产 中产生的废料循环处理,然后和消费后产生的废料 混合在一起。你不可以将两者混合在一起,因为这 里涉及卫生问题。这是我们在设计R认证的时候的一 个缘由 — 以此来区分消费前和消费后产生的原料。

9


Images courtesy of Redress

10


PERSPECTIVE

Not all retailers are vertically integrated with their own exclusive manufacturing plants and material sources — what are the challenges in convincing independent factories in Asia to waste less?

不是所有的零售商都会整合生产工厂和原材料的来 源 — 这意味这哪些促使亚洲独立工厂降低生产过程

No one knows how much waste is actually created because there’s no universal auditing for all factories to say how much waste they’re producing. From my understanding, factory owners collect their waste and sell it into a secondary market where the waste is used in what we think are less sustainable ways, for example downgraded into padding and made into mops. That’s fine because it’s still being used, which is very important environmentally, but the product made out of the waste will soon reach the end of its cycle.

料,因为没有一个统一的审计标准要求所有工厂汇

What we need to do with that waste to overcome this challenge is to bring it back up the supply chain so that it becomes a more valuable material — upcycling. If you look at that upstream approach, it may soon be supported by legislation. There are ripples of concern throughout the industry that China’s government is going to crack down on energy and water usage by factories. A supplier or factory will say “we are trying to green ourselves to be ready for strict government regulations.”

因此我们需要做的是克服挑战,将这些废料重新带 回供应链,使其成为更有价值的原料— 向上一级循

产生的废料的挑战? 没有人真切知道生产过程中到底产生了多少的废 报他们产生的废料。就以我的认识来说,工厂主会 把生产废料收集起来后卖给二级市场,作为生产像 是抹布或者是拖把之类的原料,但我们认为这是一 种比较不可持续的方式。尽管这样,这样做也是相 对合理的,毕竟这些废料还是得到了利用,而这一 点对于环保来说是很重要的。然而,这些用废料做 的物品很快就会抵达循环利用的终点,再一次被抛 弃。

环。如果你看过逆流而上的做法,你会发现其实是 和政府立法有关。现在有很多担忧说中国政府将开 始跟踪每一个细节,比如工厂对能量,水资源等各 方面的运用。作为解决方案,供应商或者是工厂会 说宣称他们正在尝试使生产方式更加环保;而一旦 政府颁布措施,他们也会准备好。 因此,对于你这个问题,我的答案是:对政府临时

So, the answer to your question: the fear of government intervention motivates some people to do something now.

颁布干扰法的恐惧会使的促使一部人开始做出改

Aside from supporting the industry to produce less waste (which is always economical), in what ways can being eco-friendly be economical for the individual?

除了协助这个产业降低废料的产生(一种经济合理

Hard economic times are a great thing for the landfill. People spend less. They can save money by reinventing the clothes that they have in their own wardrobe — mending, repairing, and tailoring. Today, we consume roughly 60 percent more than we did ten years ago because the cost of clothing is cheaper, so you can buy more. In Hong Kong alone, we throw 234 tons of textiles into the landfill every day and 71 percent is from domestic collection points.

经济危机对于这个问题的处理有一定的帮助(降低

We did a challenge a few months ago. It’s called the 1530 challenge. It was a blogger who did it and we tried to get loads of people involved. You were allowed to pick 15 items in your wardrobe to wear for 30 days. The concept behind it was to realign yourself with what you actually need versus what you don’t need. The people who did do it thought it was really powerful because you realise just how much money and space is wasted in your wardrobe.

几个月前,我们做了一个叫做15-30的挑战赛。它

变。

的做法),从哪些方面来讲可以使得这种环保的做 法对个人也有经济合理的效应? 了垃圾填堆场的压力):人们会降低花费。人们会 通过再制造自己衣柜里的衣服,比如通过缝补,改 造和剪裁等方法来省钱。相对于10年前,今天的我 们在衣服方面的消费多了60%。归根究底,因为衣 服比以前更便宜了,所以我们买的更多了。就拿香 港来说,我们每天都会扔掉234吨的衣料到填堆场, 而其中71%来自家庭衣物回收站店。

是由一个博客主引发的,而我们则尝试涉及更多的 人。参与者只允许从自己的衣柜中选取15件衣物为 自己一个月的服饰。这个挑战背后的概念就是让人 们重新调整自己的观念 — 发现并分清你真正需要的 衣服和你不需要的衣物。参与者认为这是一个很有 效的方法,因为它使得人们意识到。到底你浪费了 多少金钱和空间在你的衣柜中。

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What tips do you have for people who want to make their wardrobe more eco-friendly? Reduce what you buy, donate what you don’t wear and care for your clothes. Think seriously about whether you want to buy something — avoid impulse buys. Get rid of what you don’t wear and give it to charity shops. And change how you care for things. If you look at a pair of jeans and their supply chain, all the negative things the consumer does — washing, drying, dry cleaning, ironing, bleaching — account for half of their negative environmental impact. For all the water and electricity saved, it’s cheaper to wash your clothes only when you need to and it helps the colours and fabrics last longer.

Who do you think is setting a great example for supporting sustainable fashion? Of course I think Esprit’s great. I’ve worked with them closely and have seen their conviction in what they’re doing. Patagonia is also very interesting because they have this take-back campaign. H&M is producing very style-driven clothing using sustainable fibres. It’s a pioneering and very attractive fashion. Levi’s I think is brilliant because they do a lot of consumer education. They’ve taken the responsibility of being a brand into the mind as well as the wardrobe of their customers.

你对那些想尝试使得衣柜更加环保的人有什么提示呢? 减少你买的东西,捐献出你不需要的衣物。当你想买东 西的时候,好好想想到底你需不需要—避免一时冲动购 买东西。把那些你在需要的衣物捐给慈善机构。然后开 始改变你对事物的认识。当你看中一条牛仔裤的时候, 联想它背后的供应链,以及所有消费者带来的负面效应 — 洗,染,烫,干,漂 – 这些造成一半以上的污染。 只在你真正需要清洗的时候清洗这些衣物,不但省下了 水和电,还帮助衣物保持崭新的光泽和料子。 你认为谁为这种可持续发展的时尚方式设立一个好的榜 样? 我认为Esprit做的很好。我已经和他们呢合作有一段时 间了,并且见证了他们对这项事业的决心。Patagonia也 非常很好,因为他们已经开始了一项回收运动。H&M 正做的也十分可持续,因为他们建立了时尚为驱动的衣 物,并且所有衣物都是利用可持续的纤维。这非常具有 开拓性和吸引力。另外,我认为Levi’s也很聪明,因为 他们做了很多关于消费者方面的教育。他们都担起了一 个品牌的责任,真正成为衣柜和消费者意识当中的一部 分。

Aeris Magazine Interview with Christina Dean of Redress by Adrienne Chiu

1Images 2 courtesy of Adrienne Chiu


PERSPECTIVE

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Finding Neverland, Glimpsing Guilin 寻桂 林 找小 记 梦 幻 之 地

…where karst-stone mountains conceal glistening caves filled with gleaming gems, and sinuous rivers snake through jade-green valleys beneath cascading rice terraces… You might think you have landed in Peter Pan’s Neverland. But nestled in the mystical southwest Chinese province of Guangxi lies a treasure trove of uncanny resemblance: Guilin. As you fly across this fairytale land, the first things you will see are the serpentine mountains. Round then slender, beautiful then strange, these ethereal mounds stretch to the sky and slide back to earth in just seconds.

桂林,这是一个喀斯特山地掩映着点缀有发光宝石的 山洞的仙境,蜿蜒的小河流过梯田下的翠绿山谷。 桂林会给人一种到了彼得潘的永无乡的错觉。位于中国西南 的广西省,桂林是永无乡的完美再现。 当你在这座仙境上空飞行的时候,你看到的第一样东西就是 蜿蜒的山丘。圆长交织、奇妙瑰丽,这些直上云霄的山脉连 结了天与地。

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The Secret Garden Boutique Hotel Yangshuo


WORLD While karst landscapes like these can be spotted occasionally in parts of Laos, formations of this scale remain unseen anywhere else. Try counting the mountains in Guilin, and you will never find the end of the horizon…

尽管在老挝部分地区也能零星地见到喀斯特地

The hills alone are worth the trip to this world, but they are just the beginning. Draw closer, and you’ll see waters as clear as crystal winding between them. Fish race and weeds swirl beneath the glassy surface, stirred only by bamboo rafts sweeping silently through and children lunging off cliffs into them.

就算只为了这些山也绝对值得到桂林去一趟,但

Along these watery reflections is a land of endless beauty, where fears and cares are left behind.

看着湖水里的倒影,感觉仿佛时间都凝固了,一

Where to Stay

貌,但是像桂林这样如此大面积的是绝无仅有 的。桂林的山永远数不清,延绵不绝至远方的地 平线。

桂林的美远不止此。靠近一点看,你会发现山间 晶莹剔透的水,鱼儿在水草丛中游动,如镜的水 只会因静静驶来的竹筏或是从山坡上跳进水里的 孩子而泛起涟漪。

切忧虑烦恼都抛到了脑后。

住在桂林

The Secret Garden Boutique Hotel, Yangshuo ($) Jiuxian Village near Yangshuo, yangshuosecretgarden.com

阳朔老房子花园酒店

While the holiday town of Yangshuo can be rowdy, the outskirts near the end of the Yu Long River are serene. A wonderful hotel nearby is the Yangshuo Secret Garden Boutique Hotel, which combines conservation of the local environment with preservation of ancient Qing Dynasty buildings and cultivation of the local community.

假日的阳朔熙熙攘攘,但是阳朔城外靠 近

As soon as you enter the Secret Garden, the weight of the world disappears behind you. The air thickens with the scent of jasmine in their candle-lit courtyard beer garden with giant plants. It’s a simple, tumbledown hotel on the outside, but beautifully adorned within, in a way that pays tribute to the heritage of this cluster of centuries-old buildings.

当你走进酒店时,尘世的纷扰似乎都被抛到了脑 后。点着蜡烛的院子里种着苍天大树,浓厚的水 气中夹杂着茉莉花的香味。酒店的外观非常简单 古朴,但是内部的装修却也非常精致,似乎在像 历史悠久的建筑本身致敬一般。

Faye and Ian — the couple who run it — are so relaxed that breakfast lasts all day, “so guests can sleep in and actually feel on holiday,” says Faye, a Yangshuo native. Their fresh mango juices are a wonderful way to wakeup, whatever the time of day. From banana pancakes, sizzling bacon, and lettuce and tomato sandwiches, to taro with pork ribs and river fish and pickles, they serve everything to the finest quality. The Secret Garden is exclusive only by its hidden and more remote location (a 15 minute walk from the river and 6 kilometre bike ride from the centre of Yangshuo). Remarkably affordable, a night there ranges from 300-400 RMB and three nights with airport transfers, meals and two tours for two, cost just 4000 RMB.

遇龙河的地方却十分静谧。在这附近有一座非常 好的酒店,叫做阳朔老房子花园酒店,结合了当 地的优美环境,保留了清朝的一座老房子,并且 融入了当地的社区。

Faye 和 Ian 夫妇经营着这家酒店。这里全天供应 早餐,Faye 这位阳朔本地人说,这是为了让客人 能真正睡到自然醒,享受度假的感觉。起床后喝 一杯这里的鲜榨芒果汁是再好不过的了。这里 的早餐还有香蕉薄饼、煎培根、生菜西红柿三明 治、猪排配芋头、新鲜河鱼以及各式酱菜。这里 的食物质量非常高。 秘密花园因为较为偏僻而比较隐蔽,距离河边约 15分钟步行的距离,而距离阳朔的县城骑车也 需六公里。这里价格适中,一个晚上只需300到 400人 民币,住上三晚,再加上机票,两个人 在阳朔旅行、食宿加机票只需4000元人民币。

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Silver CAVE


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Things to do in Guilin Wheel and Paddle. Yu Long River rafting from Dragon’s Bridge can be reached from the Secret Garden by bicycle, which can be hired for 15-30 RMB. We definitely recommend paying 30 RMB for a mountain bike, which sadly we did not have the foresight to do and suffered many treacherous bumps along the poorly maintained gravel paths. Once on the vine-covered stone arch bridge, buy a few bottles of local cold beer and fresh passionfruit, which they cut open and give you a spoon. Put your bikes on the raft and cruise down the river, stopping whenever you feel like plunging into the transparent water.

Set sail. A Li River Sunset Cruise is absolutely non-negotiable in Guilin. The mountains along the Guilin-Yangshuo stretch are the highest and most spectacular in the area. As our rafting guide excitedly showed us, the legendary view around one bend is the exact image seen on a 20 RMB note.

Taste West Street.

The notorious West Street in the heart of Yangshuo is bustling with buses and no place to get a good night’s rest, so avoid staying there. But as a place to have a great meal or cocktail, it’s the place to be. We highly recommend 7th Heaven, which serves not only high-quality Western classics, but also delicious local fare including beer-fish, peppercorn beans and beef, along with Yangshuo roast duck (which is leaner than its Peking cousin).

Climb through Caves. Lose yourself in the glittering caves within the dramatic limestone mountains, where semiprecious stones sparkle at you in every colour — enough to make you half expect Tinkerbell to suddenly dart through the darkness. The caves are conveniently halfway between Yangshuo and Guilin airport, making them an ideal stop on your last day. But be warned: they take at least 2 hours to walk through quickly, and the hundreds of winding steps are not for the faint-hearted. Nevertheless, the caves and underground lakes are irrefutably magical.

See the Theatre.

Be a part of Guangxi’s magic in the audience of the Guilin open-air Night Show. Here, Guangxi women sing in technicolour robes as rainbow lights blaze the sky. Shows run daily.

Rice Terraces. These breathtaking rice tiers are not easy to get to from Yangshuo, so these are only possible to do if you are making a longer trip. We were unable to visit this time, but hear they are deeply impressive and a tribute to the province’s agricultural, green economy.

玩在桂林 骑自行车。从酒店花15到30元租一辆自行 车,可以骑车到遇龙河,搭上小舟,开始漂 流。我们强烈建议您花30元租一辆山地车。 我们由于没有足够的先见之明,饱受在山地上 的颠簸之苦。当你到达这座爬满蔓藤的石拱桥 之后,记得买几瓶当地的冰啤酒和新鲜的热情 果,那里的人会帮你切开。之后,再把你的自 行车放到竹筏上。如果你愿意的话,就跳到清 澈的湖水里吧。

划船。阿里河的日落轮渡是桂林的必玩景点。 桂林阳朔一带的山在附近是最高最美的。正如 我们导游向我们介绍的一样,一侧的景色和20 元人民币背后的图片是一模一样的。

尝遍西街。西街位于阳朔的中心地带,以嘈杂 的汽车声闻名,在此不宜居住。但是这里的餐 食以及鸡尾酒都非常不错。我们强烈推荐“第 七天堂”,这里不但供应高品质的西方酒类, 还有可口的当地美味,包括啤酒鱼、干胡椒烧 牛肉和阳朔烤鸭(比北京烤鸭肉质更精瘦)。

穿过山谷。在山间闪烁着光芒的山洞里彻底放 松一下吧。宝石般的石头闪烁着器材光芒,让 你恍然觉得小仙女会突然在黑暗中出现。这些 山洞位于桂林和阳朔的机场之间,所以是旅行 最后一天的理想之地。需要注意的事走完全程 至少要花两个小时,上百级蜿蜒的台阶也不适 合胆小的人。但是不可否认的是这些山洞和地 下湖如梦如幻。

观看表演。在桂林露天夜间秀中再次体验广西 的魔力吧。在这里,广西女人在五彩的激光中 歌唱。这个表演每天都有。 参观稻米梯田。从阳朔到稻田十分不方便,所 以到那里唯一的方法就是走得更远一些。我们 这次没有机会到那里去,但是我们听说那里的 景色让人印象深刻,也是广西省农业绿色经济 的体现。

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Getting There & Away: Guilin is just a 1-2 hour plane ride from Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Shanghai on China Southern Airlines or Hong Kong Airlines for between 1500 and 2000 RMB. Trains are also available from all three cities, if you have the luxury of time.

怎么到广西? 从香港、广州或上海搭乘中国南方航空或香港航空到桂林只 要一到两个小时,票价大约1500到2500人民币。如果时 间充裕同样可以搭火车前往桂林。

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WORLD

For the young traveller, Scandinavia offers an inviting proposition with its rich history, famously warm people and stunningly pristine scenery. But despite its considerable natural advantages, the familiar cries of “too far!”, “too cold!”, or “too expensive!” often drown out the Nordic ambitions of many a traveller. What a shame…  

对于年轻的旅行者来说,斯堪的 纳维亚有着丰富的历史、热心的 民众和美到让人窒息的景致。但 是让人遗憾的是,遥远的距离、 寒冷的天气以及昂贵的价格常常 阻挡了许多旅行者前往北欧的梦 想。

Spectacular Sweden

魅 力 瑞 by Dan Lim 典

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Lisberg’s Rollercoaster

As I found in Sweden, what lies in store for the traveller willing to just go that extra mile is so much more than a land of IKEA and gorgeous women (although both are very much in abundance). I began my trip with a visit to Gothenburg (Göteborg), the country’s historical shipping hub.   Catching the train up to Gothenburg, I was immediately struck by the beauty of the countryside — vast open fields set against the backdrop of a gorgeous blue sky, with towering wind power turbines dotting the scene… They were a modern intrusion on the picturesque vista that somehow adds, rather than detracts from its charm, and serve as a constant reminder of the progressive, environmentally conscious outlook that Scandinavia is famed for.   Sweden’s second largest city, Gothenburg exudes an alternative, sometimes gritty, vibe, exemplified in the colourful history of the locally notorious Andra Långgatan. I was informed by an exceptionally friendly local with a chequered past of his own that this famous street was once the haven of local dockworkers looking to blow off steam after a hard day’s work. Home to such scores of bootleggers and brothels, prospective customers once had to hire ‘walkers’ for the sole purpose of protection as they walked from the nearest square to their destination on the Andra Långgatan!   These days, however, the street has long since undergone the familiar transition from den of vice, to nerve centre of culture and cool. Today, it is packed with alternative fashion stores, live music and student bars, along with a smattering of erotic stores and clubs that serve as a reminder of its sordid past. However, the city also offers more than its fair share in more refined, contemplative pursuits.

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就我在瑞典的所见而言,吸引旅行者 不断探索的不仅是这里的宜家或是美 女,尽管这两样东西在瑞典都很多。 我的旅程起点是瑞典历史悠久的港口 哥德堡 。 一登上前往哥德堡的火车,我就立刻 被乡间的美景所吸引了。蓝色的天空 映衬着广阔的田野,点缀着耸立的风 车。这一现代元素倒没有破坏着如画 的景致,反而增添了些许意境,还反 映了斯堪的纳维亚出了名的进取、环 保的眼光。 哥德堡作为瑞典的第二大城市,散 发 着 独 特 的 气 息 , 当 地 著 名 的 Andra Långgatan路 也 是 这 座 城 市 五 彩 斑 斓 的 历史中的一部分。一个非常友善的当 地人向我讲述了这条街的历史,这里 曾是码头工人在一天辛勤劳动之后的 避风港。因为这里的闲杂人等比较 多,以前来这里的人要雇用人来陪他 们 走 过 从 附 近 广 场 到 Andra Långgatan。 如今,这条街已经从充满危险的虎穴 变成了文化中心。这里有着独特时尚 的商店、现场音乐表演和学生酒吧, 还有充满异域风情的商店、夜总会, 提醒着人们曾经的历史。然而,这座 城市所拥有的远不止这些。


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Things to do in  GOTHENBURG

With a convenient urban bike rental system, it’s easy to be an eco-friendly visitor by experiencing this intriguing city on two wheels. Furthermore, most of this green city’s attractions are within walking distance. Here are a few highlights:

Freak out Upside Down. A major draw card of Gothenburg is Liseberg — Sweden’s largest amusement park. It boasts a spectacular wooden rollercoaster along with dozens of other attractions for adrenalin seekers.

Broaden Your Mind. The excellent Universarium Science Museum is impressively coordinated, with exciting and interactive exhibits that showcase Scandinavia’s intellectual, innovative side.

Be on a Boat. Gothenburg is proud to have the world’s largest floating shipping museum — The Maritime Museum — with 19 ships. The world’s largest wooden ship also calls Gothenburg home. The ship is a splendid way to experience the Baltic Sea, not to mention envisage the Viking legends of centuries gone by…

Shop Sustainably. Most eco-friendly shops are nestled within the lively Linnégatan district. Look out for the Swedish denim outfitter Nudie (at Vallgaten 15), which increasingly uses organic cotton. The smaller side streets (which offer lower rents) are a wonderful way of discovering up-and-coming designers, from clothing to unique homewares and decor…

Eat Organic. Half the fun of travel is in the tasting — and Sweden offers no shortage of tempting treats. Most cafés will plate up classics such as flavoursome  meatballs and golden rösti baked potato, all made from local, organic produce. Opt for something equally authentic and more experimental at the organic Strömmingsluckan cafe (on Maginsgaten 17), like fresh herring with lingonberries. If you still have space, sample organic sourdough bread and cakes at Alvar and Ivar bakery (Kastellgaten 11).

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行在 哥德堡

这里的自行车租赁系统十分方便,所 以骑着车就能当一个环保的旅行者游 览城市。而且,这座绿色之城的许多 景点只需步行就能到达。下列的是一 些亮点。 惊魂倒挂:哥德堡的一大景点就是瑞 典最大的游乐园——里瑟本游乐园。 那里最出名的是一座巨大的木质过山 车,还有其他一些游乐项目吸引着寻 求刺激肾上腺的游客。 开阔视野:科学博物馆内的展品十分 有条理,互动的展览展现了斯堪的纳 维亚充满智慧、创新的一面。 泛舟海上:哥德堡有着世界上最大的 游 船 博 物 馆 — — Maritima博 物 馆 。 那 里 有 19 艘 船 。 世 界 上 最 大 的 木 船 也 叫 做哥德堡之家。这艘船是感受波罗的 海、体验几个世纪前海盗文化的最佳 方式。 可持续购物:大多数的环保商店都位 于 Linnégatan附 近 。 位 于 Vallgaten街 15号 的Nudie提供瑞典牛仔布外套,越 来越多地使用有机棉花。在地租低一 点的街道上通常能找到新型的设计, 从衣服到家居用品应有尽有。 享有机食物:旅行的一半乐趣就在于 品尝美食,而瑞典提供了丰富的美食 选择。大部分餐厅都会提供肉丸和烤 土豆这些经典食物,原料都是本地的 有 机 产 品 。 在 Maginsgaten街 17号 有 一 家 Strömmingsluckan餐 厅 , 那 里 提 供 正 宗 的 创新菜,例如鲱鱼配越橘。如果你仍 旧 吃 得 下 , 可 以 到 Kastellgaten街 11号 品 尝有机酸面包和蛋糕。


WORLD

Where to Stay

住在哥德堡

The Clarion Hotel, Odinsgatan 6, Gothenburg ($$)

哥 锁 提 果 位 购

www.clarionhotel.com/hotel-gothenburg-sweden-SE074 The Clarion Hotel is an eco friendly hotel chain certified under the ISO-14001 environmental specification, with a complimentary organic breakfast, free light dinner buffet, fruit, coffee, daily newspaper and internet access. It’s also conveniently located right next to Lisberg park and Nordstan — Sweden’s biggest shopping district.

德 堡 的 Clarion 宾 馆 是 一 家 环 保 连 酒 店 , 经 过 ISO-14001环 保 认 证 , 供有机早餐、免费的自助晚餐、 汁 、 咖 啡 、 报 纸 和 网 络 。 酒 店 于 里 瑟 本 游 乐 园 和 瑞 典 最 大 的 物 区 No r d s t a n 旁 边 , 十 分 便 捷 。

(above)

KAYAKING IN Stockholm (left)

drottningholms palace The myriad attractions of Gothenburg aside, for most travellers in Sweden the big attraction is the capital city, Stockholm. Set on a host of islands in the Stockholm archipelago, the city is simply gorgeous. Wonderfully historic marvels of architecture abound amidst impossibly blue water throughout the city.

除了哥德堡琳琅满目的经典,对于许多旅行 者来说瑞典的首都斯德哥尔摩也有很大的吸 引力。斯德哥尔摩位于斯德哥尔摩群岛上的 一座主岛上,十分美丽。这里有着历史悠久 的建筑,更有穿过整座城市的碧蓝海水。

The attractions in Stockholm are endless and part of the wonder is the feeling of discovery, as one amazing experience after another unfolds…

斯德哥尔摩的景点数不胜数,这段体验的美 妙之处就在于不断探索、发现,感受 发 现 一段又一段经历时的惊喜。

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Things to do in Stockholm 行在斯德哥尔摩 Cruise Stockholm’s Waterways.

For the more adventurous, I would recommend hiring a kayak for a couple of hours to experience the city from a completely different perspective — on water. The city’s vast and elegant waterways are very easy to navigate and without any strong currents even beginners like myself should have no problems avoiding an unplanned swimming expedition. Kayaks are available for hire throughout the city, including on Långholmen — a small, picturesque island in the middle of the city.

Take a Walk Down Old Town.

One can, and should, simply walk around for hours around the old town, Gamla Stan, soaking up the atmosphere of the city. Old Town is an intoxicating mix of sharp, sleek modernity with centuries-old traditions and warm hospitality. The colourful urban vista and quaint cafes make it worth the crowds.

Make a Royal Appearance.

Drottningholm Palace is a World Heritage Site not only for its breathtaking beauty, but also its important history. It is also the current royal residence of the Swedish monarchy, which sets it apart from even Versailles. Look out for the Court Theater and Chinese Pavilion.

See Scandanavian Beasts. Skansen, on Djurgården island, is the world’s first open-air museum. It features all aspects of Swedish life and culture, from traditional Swedish wooden houses and Finnish settlements, to a fascinating mix of Nordic animals in their natural settings including reindeer and wolverines.

Djurgården.

Djurgården is also home to a host of other attractions and museums, including the resurrected wreck of a 17th century ship, now converted into a maritime museum (the Vasamuseet).

Get Your Photography Fix. The Fotografiska is home to some excellent contemporary photography exhibitions, as well as a design-lover’s gift shop. Unwind afterwards at the museum’s fantastic restaurant

Where to Stay Långholmen’s Hostel ($) Långholmsmuren 20, 117 33 Stockholm, www.langholmen.com/en/hostel/abouthostel.aspx Långholmen was once the site of a prison. Now restored and renovated, the former prison is home to an excellent restaurant, conference centre and hotel/hostel. Guests stay in the converted (and much more comfortable) prison cells. If you’re lucky you may even have the opportunity to stay in the prison museum, during which you might have the unique experience, like I did, of waking up to take a shower and finding a school tour group outside your door!

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在斯德哥尔摩的水路上游船。如果喜 欢探险,我推荐租用一艘独木 舟,从 一个完全不同的角度——水上来探索 这座城市。这里的水路十分发达,即 便像我这样的初学者也能轻易地在水 上漫游。在城市的各处都能租到独木 舟,包括市中心的一座风景如画的小 岛 — — Langholmens岛 。 到古镇走走看看。一个人可以再古镇 Gamla Stan走 上 几 个 小 时 , 沉 浸 在 这 个城 市的气氛中 , 混 合 着 井 然 有 序 的 现 代 感 和古老传统的豪客。即便那里熙熙攘 攘,为了那里的城市景色和有趣的咖 啡馆也绝对值得。 感 受 皇 家 气 息 。 Drottingholm宫 殿 因 其 的 美丽和历史而成为了世界文化遗产。 这里也是瑞典皇室的居所,因此与一 般的宫殿不同。从窗口望出去可以看 到法院剧院和中国馆。 参 观 斯 堪 的 纳 维 亚 野 兽 。 位 于 Djurgården岛 上 的 Skansen是 世 界 上 第 一 座露天博物馆。在这里展出了瑞典生 活、文化的方方面面,有传统的瑞典 木屋、芬兰居所和驯鹿、狼灌这些野 生动物。 Djurgården同 样 有 着 很 多 其 他 的 景 点 和 博物馆,包括一艘17世纪沉船的残 骸,现在已经变成了一座海洋博物 馆。 制 作 一 幅 照 片 。 Fotografiska博 物 馆 经 常 有出色的当代摄影展,还能订制情侣 礼物。逛完之后可以在博物馆的餐厅 或是屋顶咖啡馆里小憩片刻,欣赏一 下海港的全景。

住在斯德哥尔摩 Langholmens 岛 曾 经 有 一 座 监 狱 , 在 经 过装修之后,曾经的监狱成为了一家美 味的餐厅、会议中心和酒店。住客们 就住在改造过的牢房里面。如果你幸 运的话你还可能住在监狱博物馆内, 也许会像我一样有惊喜。我起床淋浴 的时候就看到门外有一批参观的学生!


stockholm city hall statue

Getting There & Away: Budget airlines Easyjet and Ryanair both fly direct to Stockholm from other major European cities, for about the price of a train fare. For the curious traveller, this stylish and spotless Scandinavian land offers an abundance of carefree memories to be made... Skol!

交通方式: E a s y j e t 和 Ry a n a i r 这 些 廉 价 航 空 都 有 从 欧 洲 主 要 城 市 到 斯 德 哥 尔摩的直飞航班,票价相当于坐火车。 对于好奇心强的旅行者来说,斯堪的纳维亚这片土地 会 给 你 留下深刻丰富的记忆。

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CULTURE The humorous and humble actor, singer, brand merchant and pilot opens up about his collaboration with Italian leather brand Giorgio Fedon 1919, and how to be taken seriously in multiple industries, when you have many divergent talents… 这位幽默谦逊的演员、歌手、设计师兼飞行员向我们敞开心扉,谈论了他最近和意大利皮具 品牌Giorgio Fendon的合作,分享了他作为一个多才多艺的人在不同行业获得认可的经验。

AERIS Talks to Michael Wong AERIS 对话Michael Wong What led to your collaboration with the Italian leather brand, Giorgio Fedon 1919? I had already considered starting my own brand and my manager contacted me and said “we received a call from Giorgio Fedon 1919 and they would like to offer you store credit for their bags.” I went to the IFC store to have a look and I thought, “Oh wow they have nice accessories.” When I came to the meeting to talk about the credit, I think it was less than two minutes into the conversation and I introduced the idea of creating an MW line by Giorgio Fedon 1919 and asked if they would be interested. We immediately organised a meeting for a week’s time and we talked about it. At that time I had already begun to develop the brand elements.

In what ways have you become more involved in the design process at Giorgio Fedon 1919? I guess you can say this is the first season for MW. And if you look at the other brands I’m working with, they’re all consistent with each other. If you put all the products together from the brands I’m working with they become an MW family of products. This first MW by Giorgio Fedon 1919 collection was simply bringing out the MW lifestyle. I encouraged each brand to allow a budget for the MW team to create a product campaign. These brand icons that you see on all the MW products represent the MW lifestyle, music, film, travel and accessories.

Having worked with the Italian label, do you think in any cultural sense that Italy and China are alike? I think China and Italy have similar values, like family. There is a sense of beauty and good quality growing in China. Our clients want to touch the leather and they can tell when it’s Italian. MW collection by Giorgio Fedon 1919 is made with

什么促成你和意大利皮具品牌Giorgio Fendon的合作? 我当时已经考虑创办资金的品牌,然后我的经理联 系我说:“我们接到了Giorgio Fendon的电话,他们 愿意向你提供他们品牌的包的店铺赊销。”我去了 他们在国际金融中心的店铺,心想“这里的包很不 错,我一定要接受。”我是一个很强势的人,我的 朋友曾经这样评价我:“你不是无所畏惧,就是没 有意识到有时已经过界了,有时甚至没有礼貌。” 当我和他们商量额度的时候,我记得我只和他们谈 了两分钟,就直接了当地说:“我有个更好的主 意,你对我做一条产品线有兴趣吗?”我们在一周 后又见了面,讨论了这件事情。我对我的品牌的商 标和元素早有构思,于是他们答应了我的要求,当 时我十分激动。 你是如何更多地参与到Giorgio Fendon的设计过程中的 这是我创立自己的MW品牌的第一个原因。如果你 看一下我合作的其它品牌,它们在一定程度上都是 一致的。如果把它们的产品放在一起,它们看上 去就像MW的产品。第一季的产品就是为了表达出 MW所代表的生活方式。我促使Giorgio Fendon给 我一个单独的品牌来创造这些形象。这些包上的商 标代表了音乐、电影、旅行,表达了向前方远行的 意愿。 你在和意大利品牌合作过之后感觉到意大利和中国 文化有何相通之处吗? 我认为中国和意大利部分价值观是相似的, 比如说对家庭的观念。如今在中国,对美和 品质的重视开始兴起。我的客户想要亲自感 受一下皮革,并且能分辨出意大利的皮革。 来自像上海和北京这样的大城市的客户能够 欣赏我们的文化和时尚。我们刚刚在北京开

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genuine Italian leather and the clients can see it and feel it.

How can fashion partnerships in China be more enduring? I think you have to really build the relationship with the consumer, be sincere with them, the way you present your products to them, communicate that you care about their opinion. The most important thing is how the business is run, choosing the right partners. When you start, you need to look at the background of your partner to have the right infrastructure too.

You have had a lot of roles in your life, and there must have been some important turning points. How did you make your career choices? I started out in the entertainment business doing feature films. That was my main career. For me, anything I do, I want to have a professional approach, I want to make it the best possible. In 2008, a friend of mine who worked for a helicopter company — he’s a trombone player — said, “why don’t you come and sit in with the big band.” He knew I sang before, so I said yes and went along. Now I enjoy regular business in the music industry. In aviation for instance, helicopter flying, I decided to start training to get my private pilot licence. But I wanted to be professional, I wanted to pursue a commercial licence which is the next step. My ultimate goal is to have the opportunity to work as a commercial helicopter pilot. One of the main purposes for me to build the MW Michael Wong brand is to be able to pass something on to my children, something that’s sustainable, something that can be worked with — create a foundation, a business — that can serve its purpose to the family. I wanted to contribute as an entrepreneur in Hong Kong.

Among all the roles you have played in movies, which one did you like the most? How are you similar or different from that character? I liked this last role that I played. I waited twenty years to play this kind of character. It’s the character of Han Choi. He’s an obsessive, eccentric opera singer and well known in the art world. The whole story revolves around a murder. It was a great supporting role. There are some similarities with me. There’s a dark side. I have my own demons. I can be quite obsessive sometimes, though not to the same extent as him.

In real life you have different jobs — which one do you like doing the most and why? They’re all interrelated now. I’ve brought everything into the brand. This new venture with Giorgio Fedon 1919 is such a great experience. It’s fun work. If I had to do this for 24 hours a day, I would still love it. I enjoy the process and the work. I don’t have to struggle getting out of bed for this.

What is your message to young Chinese people today? Anything is possible, if you put your mind to it — that is your own responsibility.

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了第一家颠。我们希望能亲自选择供应商、城市 和位置。我们不想到处开店的原因是中国市场仍 在发展,我们希望我们品牌的价值得到最佳的诠 释。我们想选择最佳的地点。我们选择北京的原 因是这里与我们的供应商有着很好的联动,而且 是一个大城市。 在中国与时尚品牌的合作怎么样才能更持久? 我认为你必须真正和消费者建立关系,真诚地对 待他们,用心地像他们展示产品,带着倾听的态 度与他们交流。最重要的是,选择正确的合伙人 很重要。当你开始合作关系的时候,一定要调查 一下合伙人的背景,一定要有合适的基础设施。 在你的生活中你有许多不同的角色,也一定经历 过许多重要的转折点。你是怎么做职业生涯中的 决定的? 我刚开始在娱乐行业中做电影,这就是我主要的 事业。对我来说,无论我做什么,我都想要采取 一个专业的方法,我想让它尽可能好。我有一个 在一家直升机公司工作的朋友,他同时是一名长 号演奏家。在2008年他对我说,”为什么不你 过来加入乐队?”他知道我唱过歌,所以我做 了。对我来说,当我想做些什么的时候,我没有 边界,我不会首先考虑预算。现在我有这个音乐 业务,它是收入的我主要来源。在航空领域,例 如直升机飞行,我决定要获得飞行许可证,因此 我开始开始训练。一旦你获得许可,你可以飞世 界上几乎任何地方。但我想成为专业的飞行员, 我想要一个商务飞行许可证。所以我开始培训, 特意留出飞行时间,希望能够找一份飞行员的工 作,但是这很不容易。 我不想成为一个旧时候的饥饿的艺术家,我想要 能够把一些可持续的东西传给我的孩子,创建一 个基础、 一个品牌、 一个生意,可以为家庭服 务,并且作为香港的企业家代表香港。 你最喜欢你演过的哪个角色?你和那个角色有多 大的区别? 我喜欢我扮演的上一个角色。我和Han Choi的那部 电影我盼望了20年。他是一个固执、独特的歌唱 家,在艺术界十分出名。整个故事围绕着一个谋 杀案展开。我只是一个配角。这个角色和我有一 些相似之处,有一个阴暗面。我的内心也有自己 的魔鬼。有的时候我很固执,但是没有那么严重。 你众多工作中你最喜欢的是哪一个?为什么? 这些工作都是相关的。我把所有东西都带到了这 个品牌中。和Giorgio Fendon的合作非常美妙,工 作很有趣。我很乐意一天花八小时讨论设计,我 喜欢这个过程以及整个工作。比起拍电影,我更 喜欢设计。 你对当代的中国年轻人有什么话想说? 只要努力,没有不可能,这同时是你们的责任。


Images courtesy of Giorgio Fendon.


OF THE BLOGG 32

http://www.dressmeblog.me

The boundaries of journalism are lurching forward, as a new generation of observers go viral. They don’t broadcast, or print. Nor do they televise. They do employ multimedia and in doing so, they’re employing themselves. They write what they like, with opinion over objectivity (unlike their counterparts in newsrooms). They get the same red carpet treatment as celebrities at almost every event. And in many cases, they hold the power of persuading today’s public. So what exactly is a blogger - and what’s a day in their working life really like? We met four of China’s rising online personalities, to find out... 当新生代的年轻观察者们走上传播的道路,新闻的界限 就一直在发展变化。他们不广播,不出版,也不上电 视。但他们采用多媒体,也就是,雇佣自己。他们随心 所欲地写作,加上客观事实之外的观点(不像其他的新 闻同行)。他们甚至在大部分活动中获得与明星同样的 红毯待遇。而且在很多情况下,他们掌握了说服公众的 力量。那么“博主”的定义究竟是什么?他们在日常工作 中都做什么?为了揭开这个谜底,我们探访了四位新兴 的中国网络潮人。


CULTURE

Name:

Jasmine Webster Did you always enjoy writing? Yes — I have kept a journal since such a young age and wrote in it religiously! In high school, ‘English’ always played a huge part in my academic timetable and if you ever as a friend received an email from me, you would have had to prepare yourself for a novel of a correspondence!

In your view, how is a blogger different from a writer? All ‘writers’ are different. Someone who follows a blogger is after highly opinionated, easy to digest writing that offers an intimate taste of a particular industry — whereas a journalist has alternative viewpoints and facts to include.

Can you run us through ‘A day in the life of Jasmine,’ from the time you wake up until you go to bed? 7am — wake up, shower, dress, coffee, computer! Set up all my Social Media platforms (personal & corporate emails, Facebook, Buffer, Wordpress). Go through them one by one, responding or lining up posts. I post a blog in the morning, another at lunch and again in the evening, making sure it is re-posted on Facebook, added to my ‘Buffer’ account for Twitter later, and that the brand’s PR company is notified. I always have photos to edit on Photoshop for my blogs and I write for a number of other sites, which takes up a lot of my day. I meet with designers, websites, brand managers and PR companies, so midday coffees are usually scheduled. The day would never be complete without some brand launching a new range or item, so I’m often at fashion events. Between all this, I’ll be taking photos of what I’m wearing that day and replying to tweets on public transport, filling up time so I’m never really sitting still… The domestic side of me makes sure dinner is ready for my fiancé and I, which often means a quick dash to the supermarket. The gym is not in as much as I would like, but it’s in there!

In China many are blogging for potential perks. What are your views on this? Brands should equip only professional, specifically picked bloggers with their news. And bloggers need to think hard about who they represent. It’s not a free platform to advertise on — it’s a platform to speak directly to a particular niche. If the brand suits the reader, perfect! If not, forget the free merchandise and reserve that space for a brand that resonates with your readership.

你享受写作的过程吗? 是的。我从很小的年纪就开始写日记,并且像宗教一 样崇尚它!读高中的时候,英语课经常是我的课程安 排表的“座上客”。如果你曾经收过来自我的电子邮 件,你就知道你得做好读长篇小说的心里准备。 在你的观点中,博客主和作家有什么区别? 所有的“作家”都是不同的。博客主的文字通俗易懂 且高度简练。除此之外,这些文字还提供博客主对某 一特定领域的独特见解和灵敏触觉。然而,对于一般作 家而言,他们的文字提供不同的意见或者是事实。 你可以带我们领略一下“Jasmine的一天生活”吗?从 你早上起床到晚上休息的这段时间你都是怎么安排的? 早上七点起床,洗澡,穿衣打扮,喝咖啡和开电脑! 准备好我的社交媒体平台(个人和公司的电子邮件, 脸谱,Buffer分享软界面,Wordpress博客),然后一 个一个地阅览,回复或是编排即将发布的帖子。每天 早上我都会发布一篇博文,中午时分一篇,然后晚上 的时候再发另外一篇。与此同时,我要确保这些博文 在脸谱的网站上也成功发布,在 Buffer 分享界面预设 好发布在推特网的时间,还有通知各品牌公司的公关 部。我经常会在Photoshop上编辑我的博客里要用的照 片,为其它网站写写文章,而这些就占据了我一天中 大部分的时间。之后,我会会见设计师,品牌经理,网 站和公关公司的代表。因此,午间咖啡小憩是每天必 须安排的。当然,如果没有参加各大品牌的新品发布 会,我的“一天”不会完整。所以我经常会在各大时 尚活动的会场。在这些活动间隙,我会拍下我每天的 穿衣打扮;在搭乘交通工具的时候回复推特网上的留 言,做各种事情…因此,我一刻都不落下。当然,我 也有持家的一面。我会顺道上超市购买东西,为我的 未婚夫准备好晚餐。从表面看起来,我的“一天”里 没有给健身房排时间,但它的的确确在那! 在中国,博客(行业)有许多潜在的利益。对此,你怎 么看? 品牌应该只和精挑细选的专业博客主合作,而博客主 应该思考他们所代表的受众。博客不是一个无拘无束 的广告平台,而是一个直接和特定商机沟通的平台。 如果这个品牌适合你代表的读者群,那(博客和品牌 的合作)就非常完美!但如果不适合,那你就不要多 想那些免费的商品。取而代之,把因有的博客空间保 留给那些适合你的读者群的品牌。

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Name:

Elle Lee http://elleiconlee.com/

Did you enjoy writing growing up? Yes, not to sound too nerdy. I was the kid who loved writing contests (and winning some of them). Growing up in Shanghai, I began my own blog on MSN Space when I was 10, until my parents started scrutinising my content everyday. I was also writing travel and fashion pieces for magazines in China.

What inspires you? I love sharing experiences. When I was young I travelled a lot and was able to appreciate many different cultures. I had the opportunity to meet amazing people and enjoy the world in many aspects. I know I am lucky, so I wanted to share with people who might not be able to experience the same.

Can you run us through ‘A day in the life of Elle,’ from the time you wake up until you go to bed? I wake up and check my social media: Instagram, Weibo, Twitter, Pinterest, Viddy and the list goes on… Then I get a Venti Americano without milk to get the day started. I usually have meetings in the morning or over lunch with fashion brands and PR companies, catching up with what they are doing and how we can collaborate. In the afternoon, I do fashion shoots, blog or do social media consultancy work for fashion brands. I try to spare one afternoon a week to go for a jog along the sea wall, or up to The Peak. In the evening, I attend events or catch up on current events with the Flipboard app on my iPad. And I am online throughout the day on my iPhone.

In China many are blogging for potential perks. What are your views on this? This is a broader media issue. I think the best is to stay unbiased when it comes to writing. If you are getting paid to do a feature on your blog, then state clearly that it’s a sponsored feature.

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在你成长的过程中,你享受写作吗? 是的,千万不要听起来书呆子气。我从孩童时期起就 热爱写作比赛(也赢了不少的奖项)。我在上海长 大,从十岁起就在MSN的空间上开始写我的博客,而 我得父母也会每天审查我的博客内容。与此同时,我 也为国内的一些杂志写关于旅游和时尚的文字。 你的灵感来自哪里? 我热爱与他人分享经历。在我还是个孩子的时候,我 就经常旅游,并体会到许多不同的文化。我有机会结 识许多厉害的人,并从各个方面享受世界。我知道我 很幸运,所以,我想与那些可能没机会经历同样的事 情的人分享。 你可以带我们领略一下“Elle的一天生活”吗?从你早 上起床到晚上休息的这段时间你都是怎么安排的? 我早上起来就查看我的社交媒体:Instagram,微博, 推特,Pinterest, Viddy等等,这个单子可长了!然后 我就在一杯大杯的不加奶的美式咖啡中开始我的一天! 我通常会和时尚品牌和公关公司在早上或午餐的时候开 会,及时了解他们的最新进展和可能的合作方式。在下 午的时候,我会做一些摄影,写博客或者是为时尚品牌 做社交媒体的咨询。我尝试从每星期中找一个下午到海 边慢跑或是到山顶。夜晚的时候,我会参加活动,或是 通过 iPad的 Flipboard应用程序来更新了解最新的活动 信息。当然,我整天都会手机在线了解各种咨询。 在中国,博客(行业)有许多潜在的利益。对此,你怎 么看? 这是一个比较大的媒体问题。如果你得到赞助,要写 一篇关于某品牌的特写。我觉得最好的方法就是在写 作的时候,保持中立,不要掺杂偏见。然后就清楚地 告知读者,这是一篇赞助的特写。


CULTURE

Name:

JuanCarlos Aquino http://pronouncedstyle.blogspot.hk/ Did you enjoy writing as a kid? I loved creative writing. I would get so caught up in writing stories that I wouldn’t hear my Mum calling for me! As I grew up my attention shifted to other creative endeavors like drawing, painting, design and fashion. It was only when I began my style blog that I really gained an interest in writing again

How is a blogger different from a writer? I guess the main difference is that a writer is just that — a writer. A blogger can be a writer, photographer, stylist, artist, social commentator or any number of things. It’s a form of social expression through words or imagery.

What inspires you? The inspiration guiding my blog is my love of styling and how it can reflect different personalities, not only my personality but also those of the models featured which people don’t normally get to see.

Can you run us through ‘a day in the life of Carlos,’ from the time you wake up until you go to bed? Apart from blogging, I am also a fashion stylist and curator for a lifestyle space called Konzepp, so from day to day it really varies. I usually head to the gym in the morning before work. The majority of my day is at the Konzepp Lab. Once there, I’m researching new trends, designers and products for the space, which helps my styling projects too. After work, if I’m not at home with my girlfriend we would head out for dinner and drinks with friends. The days I have a photo shoot, my day is 100% focused on that. I would be collecting garments, putting looks together, shooting, and sometimes returning the pieces on the same day. I love styling, even though it is really labour-intensive. With so much running around, I usually end the day by going home and chilling on the couch!

你从小就喜欢写作吗? 我热爱创造性写作。我经常陷在写作中不能自拔,常 常是连我母亲的叫喊声都听不到。随着成长,我的注 意力开始转移,从创造性写作到其它创意性活动,像 是绘画,设计和时尚。但是当我开始我的时尚博客 时, 我发现我对写作的热情又重新燃起来了。 你认为,作家和博客主有什么不同? 我想,这之中最主要的不同在于 — 作家仅仅是一名 作家,而博客主可以是作家,摄影师,时尚家,艺术 家,社会评论员,亦或是其它角色。这是一种通过文 字或图片表达社会意见的形式。 你的灵感来自什么? 贯穿我博客的灵感来自于我对时尚的热爱以及它所展 示的不同的个性。这里说的个性不只局限于我的个 性,还包括那些模特所展示的,人们不常见到的个性。 你可以带我们领略一下“Carlo的一天生活”吗?从你 早上起床到晚上休息的这段时间你都是怎么安排的? 除了博客主的身份,我同时还是一名时尚形象师,和 一个名为 Konzepp 的生活空间馆的负责人。因此,你 可以看到,我每天的角色都不同。我通常会在上班前 去健身房锻炼身体,之后就会去 Konzepp工作室。我每 天的大部分时间都会呆在这儿,搜集关于空间设计的 新趋势,设计师和产品信息,而这些信息反过来对我 的形象设计项目有帮助。下班以后,我和我的女朋友 有时会呆在家,有时会到外面用膳或和朋友小聚。如 果我的一天有摄影的安排,我则会百分百地专注在这 项工作上。我会收集拍摄用品,把形象设计的成品准 备好,摄影;有时,我会在同一天内把用完的借用摄 影物品归还。尽管形象设计是一件很费力的工作,我 还是十分热爱这份工作。每天的行程安排都排的满满 的,所以每天结束回家的时候,我都会在沙发上放松!

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Name:

King Chan

http://www.my-lifestyle-news.com/

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From your perspective, what does it take to have a compelling blog?

你认为,一个成功吸引人的博客需要哪些因素?

A style of your own with individual and constructive point of views. It shouldn’t be all about me, me and me! A lot of bloggers are eager to be another Susie Bubble and Bryanboy in the shortest time possible to get attention, forgetting what message they would like to deliver. Gradually they lose their identity and style of being a blogger. So high quality content that isn’t just about you is essential to keep readers looking forward for your next publication.

向读者提供个别和建设性的意见。这个博客不应该全

What inspires you?

你的灵感来自哪里?

A meal with great company and conversation inspires me the most, by sharing each other’s experiences in life.

在用膳的时候通过好的陪伴和好的谈话来分享个人的

Do you write something new everyday?

你每天都会写东西吗?

Keeping up with 5 different posts daily except Saturday and Sunday. I ensure I have enough on standby so when I go on a vacation, the dates are set and its published automatically!

除了周六日外,我每天都会写5篇不同的帖子。这样子

How much time would you say you spend finding content offline, versus online?

你是怎么安排网上找素材和在生活中找素材的时间

I spend more time on getting to know what is already out there. The same subject delivers different messages to the receiver — it all depends on the way you are looking at it.

我话大部分的时间去了解那些已经存在的素材。同样

(我认为)要有你个人的风格。除此之外,应该还能 部都关于你自己!(现在)有很多的博客主都急切地 成为另一个Susie Bubble或是另一个Bryant Boy,并且 在最断的时间内得到关注 --- 这反倒是忘记了他们设立 博客的初衷。逐渐地,他们失去了他们自身的特点, 以及作为一个博客主的风格。因此,高质量,而不是 仅关于你的博客内容才是让你的读者翘首以盼你的下 一篇文章的关键。

生活经验通常都给我带来许多灵感。

我就能确保我在度假的时候也有足够的素材发布,只 要把时间日期设定好,帖子就会自动发布啦!

的? 的内容想受众传递了不同的信息 --- 而这取决去你看东 西的方式。


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Fall For Women

From mild humidity to swirling typhoons, embrace the untamed season of September with animal patterns and earthy tones. Disha Daswaney shares her top picks. 告别温和湿润的台风天,拥抱九月。在这个这个充满野 性的季节,选择动物图案以及朴素的颜色来与之呼应。 Disha Daswaney与我们一同分享她这个季节的首选。

女人的秋天

Pink Collar Blouse (SHOP DES CRÉATEURS) by Antelle Oyo Sienna Scarf (The 9th Muse) HKD 750 Orange is a striking trend for fall this year and warms up skin tones, too.

HKD 790 A pop of bright pink on the collar emulates the trend of detailed collars for this fall, adding fun detail to this classic shirt. 领上的一抹亮丽粉色响应这一季

橙色是这一季秋天的一大趋势,同

的趋势,使的经典的衬衫变得有

时也将肤色称的更加有光泽

趣生动。

Rust Fan Necklace by Taara (SHOP DES CRÉATEURS) HKD 700 This distinctive, deep red necklace incorporates formal Asian flare to instantly dress up a simple outfit. . 这一独特深红色的项链融入了亚洲特色的火焰,可以让简单的装束 立刻变得出众。

Battery Park Asymmetrical Bow Felt Hat (Kate Spade) HKD1200 There is always a reason to protect against UVA and UVB rays, and this neutral hat makes for a charming pre-fall accessory with its black, contrasting bow. 竭尽一切方法来防止UVA和UVB紫外线的入侵是女人的天性。这一 中性设计的帽子,以其黑色和不对称蝴蝶结的设计很是吸引人,成 为今年入秋的必需品。

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Louise Purse Vintage (The 9th Muse) HKD 1500 This classic purse has a striking circular shape to make a statement at any occasion. 这一经典的钱夹有着不同寻常的圆形设计,在任何场合下 都能大放光彩。


DESIGN

Leiden Leena Forest Green Heels (by Kate Spade) HKD 3100 Evoke the secrecy of the forest in these green suede shoes with a sinuous snakeskin heel. 在这绿色翻毛制的鞋子,以及蜿蜒蛇皮的鞋底中,唤 醒森林的秘密

Embroidered Dupioni Qipao (Shanghai Tang) HKD 4980 Shanghai Tang’s latest Dragon Plateau A/W collection is inspired by Tibetan highlands and a return to nature with ‘savage’ beauty. This Floral Embroidered Silk Dupioni Qipao 花卉绣花双宫绸连衣裙 is in the key colour of the season — burgundy. Shanghai

Tang的最新龙高地秋冬系列的灵感来源于西藏高原以及对回归

自然,淳朴美的追求。这一款花卉绣花双宫绸旗袍包容了这一集的主打色 —— 玫红色

Feather Quilt Leather Tote Bag — Black (Shanghai Tang)

Leroy Sunglasses (The 9th Muse) HKD 1680 These chic sunglasses can be worn casually and elegantly on those rare sunny September days.

HKD 5295 The unique phoenix feather print and jade detail add understated elegance to this funky bag. The storage space is ideal for carrying daily essentials and extra layers. 这一独一无二的凤凰羽毛图纹手提包,与其细节中运用的翡翠玉相互呼 应,表达了典雅。其容量很是适合携带日常必需品,同时设有额外的隔 层,方便收容更多东西。

少有的阳光明媚的九月天里,这一款时尚的 太阳眼镜可以让你同时充满随性和典雅。

The 9th Muse

www.the9thmuse.com Resin iPhone Case Leopard Ikat (Kate Spade)

SHOP DES CRÉATEURS

HKD 380 With a resurgence of leopard prints, be à la mode and accessorise your phone with this timeless feline accent.

Shanghai Tang

豹纹强势回潮,率先用这一

www.shopdescreateurs.com www.shanghaitang.com Kate Spade

www.katespade.com

永恒经典豹纹猫魅力保护壳 来装饰你的iPhone。

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Fall For men

男人的秋天

Velvet Jacket (Shanghai Tang) HKD 6500 Burgundy is the leading colour for fall this year. Get the latest look with this plush Cotton Velvet Jacket with Black Piping. 玫红色是今年秋季的主打色。为你的衣柜添置这一款黑色滚边棉 质天鹅绒夹克吧!

Bicycle Cufflinks (Shanghai Tang) HKD 546 A major theme for fall 2012 is nostalgia. These cufflinks perfectly embody this theme and should be worn with a dark shirt to complete the look. 怀旧是这一季的主题。这一款袖扣充分地包含了这一主题,并且可以搭 上一件深色的衬衣将其充分凸现出来。

Harris Street Sunglasses — Natural (SHOP DES CRÉATEURS) HKD 1330 The neutral colour of the sunglasses and the thick frame infuse natural masculinity with these blue lenses. 中性颜色,厚厚的框架,以及蓝色的镜片使的这幅太阳眼镜彰显 了自然的阳刚气息 。

Laptop Case Navy (SHOP DES CRÉATEURS) HKD 477 This sleek, retro laptop case has an element of class with its leather belt. 这一光泽,带有复古风的笔记本电脑套,与其皮带完美结合,充满了经 典。

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DESIGN

Messenger Bag (Giorgio Fedon) HKD 2900 Messenger bags are the new day bags in men’s fashion. This young executive design accommodates a 13-inch laptop, and has a front pocket for extra space. The striking orange colour is made for men who want to be different. 斜跨包(邮差袋)是当下男人时尚的新宠。这一新颖独特的设计 可以容纳13寸的笔记本电脑;同时还有一个前袋,作为额外的容 纳空间。耀眼的橙色是为想与众不同的男人量身定做醒目 。

Small Fountain & Street Silk Scarf (SHOP DES CRÉATEURS) HKD 650 As scarves of all sizes are the most fashionable accessories for this season, this small scarf can be worn with a shirt for a younger feel. 任何尺寸大小的丝巾都是这季最时尚的装饰品。这一款小巧的丝巾可以搭配一 件衬衫,使的看起来更加年轻。

3D Concierge Wood Pattern (unYOUsual) Case 299 HKD, 3Dconcierge Printing™ 199 HKD The dark wood finish on the iPhone case creates an extraordinary wood pattern, every crevice carefully carved.

Star Men’s Wallet (Shanghai Tang) HKD 780 This wallet has plenty of compartments and incorporates the classic communist star in a salute to retro chic.

这款深色的木纹iPhone保护壳 营造了以与众不同的木纹感, 每一个缝隙都是细心雕刻的。

这款钱包有许多隔层,以及融入了经典的共产主义色彩的五角 星,以此来向复古时尚致敬。

Zippered Pullover with Contrast Trim-Grey (Shanghai Tang) HKD 1036 A touch of pink on this 100% cottonknit charcoal pullover transforms this grey. This smart pullover can be easily worn over a shirt and tie. 灰色的百分百棉织炭套头中带有一 抹粉色。这款看起来时髦的套头衫 可以随意地和衬衫领带搭配。

unYOUsual

www.unyousual.com/ The 9th Muse

www.the9thmuse.com SHOP DES CRÉATEURS

www.shopdescreateurs.com Shanghai Tang

www.shanghaitang.com Giorgio Fedon

www.giorgiofedon1919.it

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CULTURE

AERIS Talks to

Ricky Lo… A Hong Kong photographer who grew up in temporary housing and went on to conquer the fashion world. The shy fashion photographer shares what images mean to him — and what it takes to start a successful creative business at a young age, against all odds. 这个在临时木屋区长大的摄影师,如 今试图征服香港时尚界。害羞的他向 我们讲述了照片对于他的意义,以及 在年少阶段如何克服一切困难,成功 地展开自己的创意事业。

When did you realise your love of photography?

你什麼時候開始愛上攝影的?

Ever since I discovered the shocking and beautiful ways in which fashion encounters photography, I’ve been attracted to its infinite possibilities and made every effort to turn the images in my mind into reality.

當我發現時裝跟攝影相遇時所引起的震撼力時, 我便被她的無限可能性完完全全吸引著,同時令 我想盡辦法認識及駕馭這種可能性,從而將我腦 中的畫面投射於現實中。

Did your family support your dream?

家人是否支持這個愛好呢?

I was not born into a wealthy family. I lived in temporary huts when I was a child. But I feel lucky that my family is healthy, and even though times were hard, they never opposed my personal goals. I really appreciate what they did for me. And as the eldest son in the family, I’m responsible for giving them a better life.

我並不是出生於一個富裕家庭,小時候是住在 臨時木屋區的。但我很幸運,擁有一個完整健康 的家庭,而且家人從沒有反對及干預我的個人發 展,只要我自己相信自己所選擇的路便可以了, 所以我很感謝我的家人。同時,身為家中的長 子,更令我擁有發奮及令家人過得更好的想法。

What was your childhood like?

可否向我們描述一下你童年的時光?

I was introverted and silent. I was not good at communicating, and always kept my thoughts inside. I have to muster a lot of courage to start a conversation with strangers. But when others break the ice and start a conversation, I will speak freely. To this day, I want to be more proactive, to meet different people, but I just don’t know how to express myself in words. But thanks to my shyness, I can translate my feelings into images, and realise them through the camera.

小時候的我是個内向沉默,不善於表達自己的 人,經常把所思所想放在心內。其實我的基本性 格是很内向的,但若別人主動打開話題,那我就 會暢所欲言;相反,我要鼓起很大勇氣才會對陌 生人主動地開始一個話題。其實我希望能更加主 動,認識不同的人,只是不太懂得在言語上表達 自己。亦可能因為這原因令我現在能把感覺於內 心化成圖像,再透過攝影具現出來。

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Your images are highly poetic, yet with incredible attention to detail. Are you a free spirit when it comes to composition, or is everything carefully controlled?

你的作品都飽含詩意,而且突出細節。一般 來说你是靈感到來即開始創作,還是早已計 劃好所有的工作?

I would say both. After being inspired, I’ll list and plan every detail, such as makeup, hair design, props and stage set — every detail needs to be perfectly done. When we begin to shoot, we’ll share the idea with our models, making resonance with the scene and environment. What we show to the audience are not commercial photos, but works of art with emotion and resonance.

這是兩者的結合。有靈感後,我會把所有細節計 劃好,例如化妝、髮形、道具及場境佈置等每個 細節都會做到盡善盡美;直至開始攝影時,再與 模特兒及現場環境製造我們獨有的共鳴,使觀看 的人不是看著一張張商業性照片,而是創造出富 有感情、有著共嗚的藝術品。

Your style is very romantic. Have you ever been inspired by the 18th century period-specific romantic writers or artists? Yes. In art genres, I pay special attention to works of the 18th century Romantic period. Their intense drama really influenced me. I’m extremely impressed by Théodore Géricault’s ‘The Raft of the Medusa’. Of course, after the research and observation, I’ll combine the sense and concepts of beauty, forming my own style.

在云云藝術派系中,我特別留意18世紀浪漫主義 時期的藝術作品,它們所表現的氣氛及張力的確 給了我不少創作靈感,而令我最印像深刻的便是 T h é o d o re Gé r i c au l t的 T h e Raf t o f th e Me d u s a。

In what ways do you feel your work reflects both your Chinese heritage and your Westernised upbringing in Hong Kong?

你生於中華大地,卻在香港長大,受到西方 教育方式的燻陶。你的作品如何反映了這二 者的結合?

Chinese art has many merits that we should appreciate and study. In particular, China’s craftsmanship is breathtakingly delicate. Chinese creativity forces me to understand that every

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你的風格非常浪漫. 你是否被一些18世紀浪 漫主義時期特定的浪漫派作家或者藝術家所 啓發?

當然,在研究及觀察之後,就是結合自己對美感 的觸覺和概念,使之成為自己的風格。

其實中國文化藝術有很多我們值得參考和欣賞的 地方,中國工藝品的精巧仔細是令我最歎為觀止


CULTURE

The photo itself — be it a moment in time, or an emotion you capture — is the essential element.

detail will influence the whole picture… Be it the colour of the lips or nail polish, all the aspects should be paid close attention. This means I’m very persistent in my work, and detail-oriented. At the same time, I’m nurtured by Western fashion and culture, which opens my mind and breaks conventional limitations. In the West people dare to dream big, and through this mentality, my works are given wings… so detailed realism can meet with fantasy and dreams.

的。更令我明白到每一個細節亦能對整個畫面有 著重大影響,不論是唇色還是仔細到指甲油,都 不能看輕。因此我工作時都會很執著,不希望得 過且過。同時,我亦被西方的高級時尚及開放思 想燻陶,使我不受環境局限各種思維概念,令我 的作品同時擁有超脫現實和具有真實感的不協調 風格。

Do you ever tell yourself “well done”? Are you ever happy with your own work — or is it a constant quest for perfection?

你是否告訴自己“你很棒”?換句話説,你 是否滿意自己的作品,亦或是不知滿足地一 直在追求完美的路上?

I’m confident in my work, but I will not tell myself “well done,” because this will only stop my progress. When a new project begins, I strive to go beyond my previous standard. I not only apply this to photography, but also to my philosophy of life. I have a purpose, “to always believe you can make it better,” to believe I can achieve something more and have a clear target, so I’m more motivated to meet my goal.

我對自己的作品有一定的自信,但不會告訴自 己“你很棒”,因為這種想法會令自己停步不 前 , 而 每 開 始 一 個 新 的 Pr o j e c t , 我 亦 會 力 求 超 越 之前的作品。同時,不單在攝影的理念上,而是 在我的人生理念,我有一宗旨,“永遠都相信自 己可以”,相信自己能力所及、同時目標清浙, 這樣使我更有動力向目標邁進。

How has digital editing changed the medium? Do you think a photo is less sincere if it’s heavily edited, or is it more imaginative?

你認為修片技術是否影響了媒介—你覺得過 多的修片會導致照片因此變得不真實,還是 讓其變得更加富有想像空間?

Thanks to the convenience and popularity of the SLR camera, many people now call themselves photographers, and people’s opinions about photographers have changed. I believe that

由於修片程式的便利和單反相機的普及使很多人 都能以攝影師自居,使整個社會對攝影師這行業 的品評亦都改變了。

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the skills of photo modification can surely improve the image, making it more realistic and breathtaking. I don’t think it takes away from the truth of it. But that said, you need excellent shooting skills, rich experience and unique art direction. Photo modification cannot make up for the photo, it can only be used as a tool to improve it. The photo itself — be it a moment in time, or an emotion you capture — is the essential element.

我覺得高超的修片技術的確能令好的照片更富 靈魂,令創意更加能被具現化同時更具張力及 感染力。當然,前題是需要有高超的技術,不 然只會令照片不成 照片;同時亦需要有豐富及 獨到的art direction,否則,你有多好的修片 技巧也彌補不了照片的缺憾。要記著修片只是 輔助工具,照片各概念本身才是真正的主導。

What was the landmark moment that made you realise this was more than a hobby for you, that photography was a career?

什麼時候你開始意識到,攝影對你來説不 僅僅只是興趣,而可以變成你的事業?

Before I started university, I was determined to become a fashion photographer. I took a job as an assistant photographer while I was a full-time university student to improve my skills. By the time I was in my sophomore year, I set up my own photography company. Now, our main clients are in the fashion and advertising industry.

在我進入大學之前,我便立志當上時裝攝影 師,所以一面全職讀書,一面當攝影助手以磨 練攝影技術及豐富自己的業內知識。直至大學 二年級,我便開設了自己的攝影公司,主要客 戶是時裝及廣告業界。

Do you have any tips for aspiring photographers?

對立志成為攝影師的年輕人,你有什麽建 議?

Be loyal to your originality, and find your own concept and comprehension about beauty through your attempts and failures. In addition, build your own team, which should be reliable and trustworthy, including a great make-up artist and hair stylist. Also, to achieve success tomorrow, sacrifices must be made today. I’ve given up most of my leisure time in exchange for what I have now. No one knows what the result will be for trying, but success will not come to you unless you do try.

忠於自己的原創性,在不同的嘗試及失敗中找 到屬於自己的感覺以及對美感的見解。同時, 組織自己信懶的可靠團隊,例如化妝師及髮形 師。同時,要換取將來的成功,首先要有付出 的覺悟,而我便是以大部份的娱樂和休息時間 來換取現在我所擁有的東西;沒有人知道結果 會如何,但不踏出哪一步和心理準備,成功不 會自動來找你的。

What is the main difference between young people in the Chinese Mainland versus young people in Hong Kong?

你認為大陸年輕人和香港年輕人的不同之 處在哪裡?

When I talk with young Mainlanders, I feel that they have clear goals, they know what they are learning and trying, they’re preparing for their destination. On the contrary, young people in Hong Kong have different opinions, sometimes they are not clear about the goal, making it harder to make a decision. But the longer they consider, the more experience they will have to help them. There is no right or wrong, only differences in how you face and deal with decisions… I’m lucky to be young in Hong Kong, setting a goal early on and perhaps saving more time than others did.

與不少的大陸年輕人接觸後,我感到他們對自 己的單一目標清淅明確,他們明白當前所做所 學是為自己的理想進發而不斷努力及大膽嘗 試。而香港年輕人,在這方面比較多樣化,有 時目標並不明確,使他們難以立定主意。但考 虑的时间越久往往经历也会更多,帮助你定下 最终目标。所以兩者沒有對與錯,只是在乎自 己怎樣去面對。而我則是比較幸運的香港年輕 人,能於早期為自己奠定目標,比別人省卻一 點時間。

to achieve success tomorrow, sacrifices must be made today. I’ve given up most of my leisure time in exchange for what I have now. No one knows what the result will be for trying, but success will not come to you unless you do try.

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CULTURE

Images courtesy of Ricky Lo


Watches of the World 世界的手表

The watchmaking industry has drastically grown since the 1900s when Louis Cartier created the first watch for men. Since then the watch industry has become one of the largest in luxury. From early beginnings in France, the watch industry expanded to Switzerland, which, with its sleek precision and technical competitiveness, became the world’s biggest watch manufacturer. 20世纪初,路易·卡地亚设计了第一款男装手表。从 那时起,手表行业大幅增长,并成为了最大的奢侈品 行业之一。手表行业最初集中在法国,但后来拓展到 瑞士。现在,瑞士以其精湛的设计和技术成为世界上 最大的手表制造地。

Switzerland 瑞士 Taking pride in its 70-year tradition of manufacturing Pilot’s Watches, IWC Schaffhausen was inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and his journey in the revolutionary times of early aviation in 1912. Celebrating this achievement 100 years later, IWC launched a Pilot Watch series to mark the anniversary. This exclusive father-son watch collection demonstrates the passing of a cherished watch from one generation to the next. Both feature a beautiful alligator strap holding the rhodium-plated dial together, which has been carefully encased into a stainless steel case. With epitome Swiss attention to detail, both faces are made of sapphire glass with antireflective coating on the rhodium-plated dial. The subtle differences between the father and son’s watches symbolise the independence of each. The larger father’s watch (diameter 46mm, height 16mm) builds up a power reserve up to 168 hours, and its caliber movement is generally faster. The son’s watch is smaller (diameter 39mm, height 11mm), with a power reserve up to 42 hours. Big Pilots Watch for Father’s 140,000 HKD* Pilot’s Watch Mark XVI for Son’s 40,000 HKD* http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/pilots/ 以其本身拥有70年的航天员手表制造历史为豪,IWC Schaffhausen 深受Antoine de Saint-Exupéry以及他在1912年,那个充满先驱色彩 的早期航天发展年代的旅程的启发。恰逢其100周年纪念,IWC 发行了航天员手表一系列,以此庆祝纪念。 这一对专属的父子表象征了将这一珍贵的手表代代相传的热 忱。两款手表的特色是都有一条鳄鱼皮带将镀铑表盘串联在一 起,然后被细心地放置在一个不锈钢制的盒子中。瑞士注重细 节的缩影也在这一款手表中完全展露:镀铑表盘的双面都是由 防反光的宝蓝色玻璃制成。 这款父子表的微妙差别,象征了各自的独立。较为大的父亲 表 ( 直径 46 毫米,高度 16 毫米 ) 的内置电源储备可以使用长达 168小时。另外,其口径会相对较快。儿子表相对较小(直径39 毫米,高度 11毫米 ),其内置电源储备可以使用长达 42小时。 航天员表(父亲),售价:港币140,000元 航天员手表马克十六世(儿子表),售价:港币40,000元 http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/pilots/

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DESIGN

CHINA 中国 This year, watchmaking has spread from Europe, to East Asia. After studying business in Shanghai, Adrien Choux went on to launch China’s first watch, christening it The Chinese Time Keeper or ‘CTK’. The Frenchman’s deep passion for Chinese culture and history is evident in all aspects of its conscientious design. Timekeeping in China traces back thousands of years to the Shang Dynasty (1600BC–1100BC), when days were divided by the shifting of light. Evoking the architecture of an ancient pagoda, the case of a CTK comprises four rings of stainless steel 316L, held together by four large screws on the bezel. Priced at 23,614 RMB, the CTK14 Three Hands Automatic Jade model includes 10 beats of pure Burmese Jade, giving optimal contrast and visibility against the clean white face. The design exudes Chinese identity with the signature ‘+’ for 10 and logo of the Chinese horologist Su Song, who invested the first astronomical clock in 1088AD.

LATVIA 拉脱维亚 Today, watch creation is expanding into less conventional parts of the world, inspiring young designers such as Agni Tilla from Latvia — an up-and-coming eastern European country and former Soviet state, now renowned for its creative flair. In February 2010, Agni created her own watch line, May 28th — a fun, young, unisex watch brand. May 28th reflects unique watches inspired by sharp patterns, bright colours, geometrical shapes and patterns derived from nature and textiles. In particular, the Japanese quartz movement influenced these watches. This distinctive 08:30AM watch (HKD 327) can be spotted from a mile away with its minimalistic and sophisticated design. This affordable watch also boasts a black plastic water resistant strap. Find more of Agni’s May 28th designs at: www.shopdescreateurs.com 今天,手表设计制造业已经散布到世界上那些非传统手表制造 业的地方。它引发了无数青年设计师的灵感,比如说拉脱维亚 的 Agni Tilla。拉脱维亚是一个新兴的东欧国家和前苏联盟国, 现今以其创意而闻名世界。2010年的2月份,Agni创造了她自己 的手表系列;稍后,在5月28日,她推行了一款有趣,年轻的男 女兼容的手表品牌。 5月28推出的独特手表,有着尖锐的图案,其亮丽的色彩,几何 形状以及图案无一不反映出来自大自然和材质的影响。日本石 英机芯也很大程度地影响了这些手表的设计。 这款独特的早上08 :30 手表(港币327 元)有着既简约又精细 的设计,远在一公里外就被可以被看到。这款手表不仅价格实 惠,同时还有一个黑色的塑胶防水表带。请前往一下网站查询 更多关于Agni的5月28日系列设计。

www.shopdescreateurs.com

This thoughtful watch has a stainless steel base and sapphire crystal antireflective coating, with a power reserve of 36 hours. For more information, see: thechinesetimekeeper.com 今年,手表制造业已经从欧洲蔓延到东亚。在上海完成商业学 习之后,Adrien Choux 便开始发行中国的第一款手表,命名其为“ 中国的更夫”或者“CTK”。这位法国人对中国文化和历史的热情 表现在他设计的手表中的每一个细节。 打更在中国的历史可以追溯会几千年前的商朝(公元前1600至公 元前1100)。当时,天是按着日光的交替而划分的。设计灵感来 源于一个古代的佛塔的建筑物,这款CTK手表含有四个不锈钢 钢环,并由四个大螺丝焊接在一起。 售价定在人民币23,614元,CTK14的三角全自动翡翠手表含有10 颗纯净的缅甸翡翠,与其洁白色的表壳形成了鲜明的对比。这 个设计有一个“+”字符以及一个中国钟表设计师苏颂的标志,苏 颂于公元1088年发明了第一个天文钟。这一细节象征了中国人 的身份。这款周到的手表还有一个不锈钢的表壳以及防反光的 宝蓝色水晶外壳。同时,其内置电源储备长达36小时。如果你 想获得更多相关信息,请前往一下网站:

www.thechinesetimekeeper.com


THE AERIS Reduce, Reuse & Recycle Fashion Guide 减少,再用和循环再用的时尚指导 By Agnes Haryuni

ETSY

Etsy

If you’re looking for a unique handmade pieces, Etsy is the most popular source for craft supplies and handmade products. Feeling crafty? You can also sell your own handmade items here, which might score you a few good deals too (free jewellery, for example).

如果你还在苦苦寻找独特的手工制产品, Etsy 是最广受欢迎的工艺品原材料和手工制品的源 头。在这里你还可以售卖你自己的手工制品, 而这也可以给你带来一些挺划算的交易(比如 说免费的珠宝首饰)。

Secondhand.Hk

香港二手货

Savvy fashionistas can check this site for designer items, at knockoff prices.

时尚人士可以在这里发现低价的设计师设计产 品。

Rent a designer Bag

租赁设计师设计的手袋

Need a wardrobe update on a budget? IconLady offers various world-class designer bags for rent. Say goodbye to saving months of earnings to buy it full price!

需要给你的衣柜添置新手袋但是确资金有限? 时尚女士有各种世界级的设计师出租。以后再 也不用省上几个月的收入来全价购买新手袋啦!

Swap.com

交换网

Swap last season’s items with people from around the world, through exchanges from graphic design to shoes. Swap the jacket that you never wear for new shoes and reduce what you throw away forever.

和来自世界的是时尚人士交换上一季的时尚商 品吗?从图案设计到鞋子,亦或是用你从来没 有穿过的外套来交换新鞋子以及减少你扔掉浪 费的物品。

www.secondhand.hk

www.iconlady.com/webnew/eng/handbag.php

market.swap.com

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www.secondhand.hk

www.iconlady.com/webnew/eng/handbag.php

market.swap.com


DESIGN

AERIS Talks Frames with Simon Chimm, the man behind RPF — Recycled Paper Frames — about the fashion that reduces, rather than creates, waste… What sparked your desire to launch Recycled Paper Frames (RPF)?

AERIS对话循环利用纸 制镜框(RPF)的创始 人, Simon Chimm。他代 表着一种只降低但不 制造垃圾的时尚。

Magazines, newspapers, old photos, comics and leaflets that are thrown away… Being aware that millions of tons of waste paper are being burned or buried each year, my heart was broken seeing all these colorful creative works being lost. I wanted to prolong the life of these materials, so people could appreciate the effort behind them for longer. It’s a form of ‘upcycling’ — recycling materials to create something more valuable.

How are they produced? I use the recycled paper to decorate display boxes and glasses frames. This can only be achieved by hand. Each pair is carefully wrapped with image paper, covered with a multilayer of protective coating and then polished at least 3 times. It’s an original method that we’ve patented.

Is it cheaper or more costly to apply such a production process? It is more costly, as it is a labor-intensive process to finish a pair of frames by hand. 什么促使你开始循环利用纸制镜框(RPF)这个概念? 那些被抛弃的纸制品,像是杂志,报纸,旧相片,漫画书, 宣传小册子等等。每每想起每年有成千上百万吨的废纸被燃 烧或填埋,从彩色的富有创意的物品到灰烬,我的心都碎 了。我希望能延长这些物品的生命,使得人们可以更长久地 欣赏制造这些物品背后的艰辛。这是一种向上循环的方式 – 将物资循环并用其创造更有价值的物品。

这些物品是怎么生产出来的? 我用循环再用的纸张来装饰包装盒和镜框。这只能通过手工 来完成。每一对物品都精心地被包上图案纸和多层保护壳, 然后至少被打磨三次。这是一种我们自己开发的方法,并且 成了我们的专利。

运用这种生产方式的成本是更高还是更低了? 这种方式的成本更高,因为这过程需要耗费更多的劳动力来 手工完成一对成品相框。

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Being aware that millions of tons of waste paper are being burned or buried each year, my heart was broken seeing all these colorful creative works being lost. I wanted to prolong the life of these materials, so people could appreciate the effort behind them for longer.

Are they water-resistant?

它们防水吗?

Yes, thanks to the protective coating they work in any weather.

是的,多亏了保护功能的保护壳。它们在任何天气下 都可以使用。

Is there a Chinese influence in your designs? Yes, along with some German and Italian inspiration, for instance in the ZEISS 100 collection. As a Hong Kong-born Chinese, I have always been enthusiastic about seeing products manufactured in China and distributed worldwide. My collections leverage that tradition of craftsmanship and incorporate Chinese design sensibilities. Many frames are ‘Made in China,’ but a brand creatively conceived in China is still less common.

What are the benefits of designing and manufacturing in China? Being in China creates shorter lead times between design and manufacturing. This allows for better quality control, faster adaptation and more interaction between design and manufacture.

What does RPF represent?

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你的设计中有受到中国文化的影响吗? 是的,同时还有一些德国和意大利风格的影响。你 可以从ZEISS100系列看出。作为一个香港出生的中 国人,每次见到分散在世界各地的中国生产制造的的 产品都感到激动。我的产品系列涵盖了传统的手工 工艺,并且融入了带有中国设计的感觉。许多镜框都 是“中国制造”,但是一个中国自主设计并生产的品 牌还是很少见的。

那么,在中国设计并生产有什么好处呢? 在中国这个地理优势使得设计和生产的交货时间缩短 了。这使得更多时间可以花在质量控制,修改适应以 及设计和生产的互动上面。

I see each pair as a piece of art capturing life with better vision, but also metaphorically opening our eyes to our world using the most striking images taken throughout the last century. It’s also about achieving maximum visual effect, while being environmentally responsible.

RPF代表了什么?

Where can we get a pair?

在哪里可以买到这一副眼镜呢?

Currently, you can only buy them in Europe and through me in Asia.

目前来说,你只能在欧洲买到它们。或者,你可以在 亚洲通过我买到。

What are your plans for the future?

那你对未来有什么打算? 通过这种特别的技术,继续创造带有个人特色,独一 无二的镜框。我本身是一名雕塑家,因此,我希望我 可以用循环再用的纸张创造更多家具,以及循环再生 纸陶瓷。

To continue to create a lot of personal and one-of-a-kind frames by using this special technique. I’m trained as a sculptor so I would also love to create more recycled paper furniture and recycled paper ceramics.

在我看来,每一对眼镜带来更好的视界,成为捕捉生活 中细节的艺术品。但同时它运用过去一个世纪的引人注 目的图像,来象征性地开拓了我们的眼界。另外,这还 是关于在对环境负责的同时追求最大的视觉效应。


DESIGN

Images courtesy of Recycled Paper Frames


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Even though it was midnight, I knew the man at the end of the corridor was Ethan Li. He sticks out in any light with his ease and confidence. With a simple shirt, jeans and satchel, he looks more like a student on campus than a film star. “Feel free to ask me anything, just treat the interview as friends chatting,” he said. He pulled up a chair for me and broke the ice before I began. 一眼就认出走廊尽头出现的是李东学。这样的轮廓侧影,在人群中注定是要鹤 立鸡群的。不想他一微笑,便流露出一股邻家大男孩的亲和气质。简单的衬衣 加牛仔裤,背着斜挎包,总让我联想到大学校园里表演系男生的样子。“不用 担心,什么都能问,权当聊天。”他帮我换了张舒服的椅子,抢占先机说了我 要说的话。

Ethan Li:

李 东 学 :带 着 镣 銬 舞 蹈

Dancing Within a lens

Sitting in the dark light, his eyes showed a little fatigue. As the conversation progressed, the 30-year-old slowly released his maturity. At times, he looked up and laughed with the charm of Prince Guo. His straight-talking words can come off as shocking, but his honesty and self-confidence are refreshing. On why he chose Beijing Film Academy, he said: “Initially, it was in part attributed to a little vanity…” Ethan’s father was a pilot in the East China Sea Fleet. He grew up in the army, influenced to become as tough a man as a soldier. His mother is from Zhengzhou, Henan, where he attended high school. It was also where he began university — majoring, perhaps unexpectedly, in computer science — before enrolling in the Beijing Film Academy.

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他坐下,黑色的大瞳仁在昏黄的灯光中闪现出一丝 疲惫和深沉。接下来的谈话中,三十而立的他逐渐 显出成熟男人的气质。说到开心处还会爽朗地仰天 大笑, 带有几分果郡王特有的潇洒侠义的气质。常 常一个过于直白的句子会噎得我无从反应,却又佩 服并感动于这份坦白——说起考北影的原因时他答 道:“那是小小的虚荣心在作怪.”这样没有防备 的直接交流,背后需要支撑着多强大的自信。 李东学的爸爸是宁波东海舰队的一名航空兵飞行 员,所以他从小就在部队长大,练就了“很爷们 儿”的个性。妈妈是河南郑州人,东学在郑州度过 了中学时期,后又读了第一个大学,学的是计算机 专业。之后才考取了北影。


PERSPECTIVE


In the entrance exam, Ethan read Xu Zhimo’s immortal poem ‘Saying Goodbye to Cambridge Again’ and won the judges over, receiving an offer to study there. But he soon realised the need to make up for his lack of performance experiences… “To give up all my old bad habits, devoting myself fully for performing study… To perform well, experience is everything. Reading and rehearsing.” Countless films and books later, he found his confidence. Soon, whenever a movie crew came to campus, Ethan would present at the lecture. He didn’t come home even during summer and winter holidays, searching for opportunities to act in commercials and accumulate flying hours in front of the camera. “From 2005 to now was the period that I grew up fast. During these years, I didn’t come home to my parents for more than a week at a time,” he recalled soberly. “Getting started is the hardest step… but once you have started, it will be much easier.”

在北影的考试中,他朗诵了一首徐志摩的《再别康桥》 ,之后顺利拿到了录取通知书。可是从未有过表演经验 的他开始发现自己的不足,于是勤奋补拙“摒除一切恶 习三点一线”。“要学会表演,阅历很重要。阅历就是 阅读加经历。”所以他大学期间看了无数的电影和书 籍,每次有剧组来学校开讲座都去耐心去听。寒暑假也 不回家,在北京找机会拍广告,积累大量镜头前的感 觉。“从05年到现在是我成长得最快的一段时期,将近 十年我几乎没陪爸妈超过一个星期”。这样的勤奋让他 获得了之后的演戏机会,也造就了今天的他。“人生有 一就有二,可是从零到一却很难。”

AERIS: Your thesis’s title is ‘To Dance with a Shackle.’ Can you explain why you chose it and its meaning? Ethan: The lens is a frame, so you cannot act without caring where the lens is. The frame of the lens is limited and you should perform within that limitation, to test one’s performing abilities. Acting is the basic command, but the highest standard of actors should not be acting, but whether you actually are that character, and whether the character is yourself. The lowest standard of an actor is acting.

AERIS: Prince Guo in The Legend of Concubine Zhen Huan looks so

AERIS: 你的毕业论文题目是《带着镣铐跳舞》, 能否跟我们说一下选题的原因和含义? 李东学 : 镜头就是个框架,你不能不管镜头在哪里 就演自己的。(不是意识不到镜头存在才能自由发 挥么?)镜头是有框架有限制的,你要在限制内自 由发挥,这就要考验一个人的能力了。“演”其实 是最基本的,演员的最高境界不是演,而是,你就 是这个角色,这个角色就是你。演员的最低境界才 是演。

Ethan: I’d give myself 7 out of 10. I didn’t perform well in the

AERIS: 《甄嬛传》中的果郡王就很自然,没有演 的成分在,你事先做了很多准备吧?你给自己 打多少分?

beginning, but then I found the feeling and performed better and better… I read the original story, but reading is only the first step. This story pursues the real emotion, and while handsome at first, bends to vicissitude in the end.

李东学 : 我给自己70分儿吧,前面演得不好,后 面才渐入佳境。事先原著都看过,但看书只是第一 步,甄嬛传讲究真情实感,帅也不是风花雪月的那 种帅,后期甚至有些沧桑感。

natural. How did you prepare for it and how would you evaluate yourself?

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PERSPECTIVE

Getting started is the hardest step… but once you have started, it becomes easier to find your own pace. 人生有一就有二, 可是从零到一却很难。

AERIS: Can you really play the flute? Ethan: I sure can. For the authenticity of my playing the flute, I went to buy one from a professor. There are specific gestures to hold the flute. It should look like you really play it.

AERIS: If you perform perfectly, the character you play might become your persona to audiences — how do you feel about that? Ethan: I don’t mind being Prince Guo forever. He is a part of me. Some one asked me what was the greatest harvest for me was in Zhen Huan. I think the harvest is that after years people will still remember Prince Guo. Maybe other characters I perform would not be remembered, but this character makes me remembered. The legacy transcends money… Actors should leave something in audiences’ minds. Of course, I hope my performance in other roles would be as satisfying!

AERIS: 你真会吹笛子? 李东学 : 真会吹,我为了演吹笛子的镜头,特意去 琉璃厂买了把笛子,重新抛光,然后找老师学。拿 笛子有特定的手势和位置,要看起来真实就要自己 真的会吹。

AERIS: 戏演得太好,这个角色就容易变成你的标 签。你怎么看这个问题? 李东学 : 我不介意人家叫我果郡王,他是一部分的 我自己。之前有人问我,演完甄嬛传最大的收获 是什么。我觉得收获就是,多少年之后大家想起 甄嬛传会想到有个果郡王。可能我演的别的戏大 家都记不住,但这一个就帮大家记住了我。这就 是意义所在,这个意义是超出金钱之外的东西。 做演员应该留点儿东西。当然,我也希望我塑造 的其他形象也会有这样的造诣。

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freeDOM is an ability 自由是一种能力

AERIS: What if this label affects your other roles and narrows your range? Ethan: I believe not. Many honoured actors, like Chen Daoming, Jiang Wen, and some promising actors like Wen Zhang and Deng Chao, have successfully performed several roles of different types. If you believe it would make my role narrow, that’s because you haven’t seen my other work.

AERIS: How does the character of Xu Haifeng in your new film The Gun of Xu Haifeng differ from Prince Guo? Ethan: I believe my performance of Xu Haifeng was better

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than Prince Guo. There were many values in my mind during my study of Xu. I was genuinely shocked by his fighting spirit. For example in his Olympic notes, his record was close to second. I realised that men who want success must be cruel to themselves. They must have unyielding self-control and devotion to their work. In addition, the cast of the movie was young, and the director did not want to impose his opinion. Because of the timeline of the story, I gained more than 10 kilos in the film. The real Xu Haifeng gave me a

AERIS: 如果这个标签会影响你之后的角色,让你戏 路变窄呢? 李东学: 我觉得不会,之前那么多优秀的演员,像陈 道明、姜文,包括年轻演员文章、邓超,都有几个不 同类型的经典成功角色。如果你觉得我戏路窄,那是 因为你没看过我其他的戏。

AERIS: 那么在九月份即将上映的新戏《许海峰的 枪》中,许海峰的角色和果郡王有什么不同? 李东学: 许海峰这个角色我认为比果郡王上了个档次, 很多内心戏。我在前期了解这个人物的过程中,就被 许海峰的拼搏精神震惊了。譬如他的奥运笔记,详细 得精确到秒。我发现所有想成功的人,都要对自己够 狠,必须有强大的自控能力和专注的态度。这部戏班 底很年轻,导演不会用自己的主观视角影响你。因为 情节有年度跨度,我后期增肥了十多斤。许海峰本人 评价也挺好,这让我松了口气。

AERIS: 你怎么看成名之后的自由和隐私问题? 李东学: 自由是一种能力。我没觉得成名后生活有多


PERSPECTIVE positive evaluation of the performance — that was the greatest relief to me.

AERIS: How do you handle your freedom and privacy after finding fame? Ethan: Freedom is an ability. I don’t feel any change after becoming famous. I will not change my life for the sake of appeasing others’ opinions. Everyone should leave himself a private space to talk to himself, because only you yourself know exactly what your reality is. Performances should be expressive, so you should firstly perform honestly.

AERIS: What if your privacy is violated? Ethan: Others’ entertainment is none of my business. I live my own life. If you care about what everyone else thinks all the time, it only proves you aren’t strong enough. You can never please the world. That said, I care about the view of people I love. A man should protect his relationship, not flaunt it casually. I think of Andy Lau as a good example. He protects what he cherishes.

AERIS: Recently you have been performing Paper Marriage in Shenzhen, a teleplay on the marriage of young people… What is your view about marriage? Ethan: I think marriage cannot be good or bad, but it can be appropriate or inappropriate. Falling in love is much easier than living together. This teleplay shows how marriage is the combination of two families. There are the conflicts between tradition and modernity, and different environments can bring out different characters in two people. The values of our parent’s generation are so different from the values we wrestle with today… For example, contradictions between wives and mothers-in-law would certainly exist. Sharing similar views on life and cultural values is extremely important. In my view, relationships with complementary characters usually last longer.

大变化,因为我不会因为别人对我看法的转变而影 响我的生活。但每个人都必须给自己留个空间,自 己可以跟自己交流,因为很多事情真实的感受和真 相只有自己知道。表演要有表现力,首先你要演得 真诚。而真诚是建立在真实面对自己的基础上的。

AERIS: 如果隐私被侵犯呢 ? 李东学 : 别人娱乐跟我没关系,我过我的生活,如 果你在意,只能说明你内心不够强大。但我会在意 我爱的人的看法。做男人要有担当,要保护自己的 感情,不要刻意去展示,千万不能把利益放在情感 前面。我觉得刘德华做得特别好,他保护因为他珍 惜。

AERIS: 你最近在深圳拍摄的《纸婚》是一部反映 现实年轻人婚姻状况的戏,你自己的婚姻观是 怎样的? 李东学 : 婚姻没有好不好,只有合不合适。相爱容 易相处难,这个戏告诉我婚姻是两个家庭的结合。 这个戏是关于传统与现代的碰撞,成长环境会造成 两个人的性格不同,父辈和我们的价值观又有不 同,婆媳矛盾也是肯定存在的。所以两个人在一起 生活观,价值观很重要,现实中往往互补的性格更 能走得长远。

AERIS: 现阶段的你是否已达到自己的人生目标? 李东学 : 近期目标就是拍几部好戏。但也恰恰是在 拍戏的过程中,我总能发现自己有很多东西需要 提高。演员不能一直向外掏东西,必须有所补给才 行。所以近期我也很想停下来充充电。我认为自己 还没到自我实现的时候。人生好多步呢,事业只是 第一步。我想五六十岁才是人生最辉煌的时候吧。

AERIS: Have you achieved your life goal? Ethan: My short-term goal is to perform well in my teleplays. I must improve in many aspects. Actors should also be supplied, so I want to take a break from films for a while and develop myself. I haven’t achieved to my goal yet. Life is a long way, and my career is only the first step. Perhaps the most brilliant moment is in one’s 50s or 60s… I have a long way to go.

The night crept on and as the interview finished, Ethan’s answers had broken down my preconceptions. Free because he has lived constrained. Honest because of his privacy. Dancing within a lens, without leaving marks. You don’t need to ask what role he is playing — he is playing himself. 随着夜色渐浓,采访结束,过程充满惊喜。东学的答案总是一步一步打破我的预想. 他自 由,是因为看穿了不自由的环境;他坦白,是因为有自己的坚持。他在一个被镜头和目 光框住的世界带着镣铐舞蹈,却身心轻松地表达着真实的自己,不带一丝演出的痕迹。 你不用问他演的角色是谁,因为那就是他自己。

Images courtesy of Ethan Li

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EVERY LAST GRAIN... 最后的粮食 癒穬๥ួ⿺ᚶ

AERIS Talks to Charlotte Hwang, Foodlink Operations Director, about the cultural causes of food waste in China and how it can be solved. AERIS对话Foodlink 执行总监Charlotte Hwang,探讨中国文化中 导致食物浪费的可能因素,以及可行的解决方法。


PERSPECTIVE How did the idea for Foodlink come about? My mother was eating with her friends at a restaurant where leftovers were bountiful. They decided to do something about it in 2001. Watching the homeless take food from dumpsters was a sight my mother couldn’t let go of. She insisted on doing something about it, and began collecting from hotels where she had contacts.

How hard is it to find food donors and how easy is it to save food from going bad? It was quite easy to find donors, considering we have some board members who are involved in or are well connected to the hospitality industry. It is always a concern for hotels when food hygiene is brought up. We have a liability waiver, which can cover us legally in the case of someone becoming unwell. All foods are fresh and edible when picked up — be it fruits, seafood, or noodles. We ask the hotel to decide how to pack the goods up, provide containers, and deliver within an hour. Some foods are frozen and vacuum sealed (then to be boiled/heated up), some are packed (breads).

How much of the leftover food that is retrieved gets consumed? Foodlink collects 2,200kg of food per week. This goes towards 2,000 meals on average from Monday to Friday. Almost all of it is edible.

What is the biggest contributing factor to food waste in Chinese cities? Banquets are a big problem. Chinese people don’t mean to waste — they treat their guests to save face. Weddings are also a terrible problem. Usually 4-5 courses is enough, but sometimes we see more than 10 courses on the menu, which is simply unnecessary.

What are your plans for China? We haven’t expanded there yet and are still working on our third van, which arrived last week. After that, our expansion plan is to maybe start in Shenzhen or Guangzhou and start with pastries.

Where do you see Foodlink in 5 years? Hopefully Foodlink can run on it’s own. Fundraising will be able to secure operations and Hong Kong residents will all know us as the main charity that collects leftover, good-to-eat food. Perhaps we’ll have a fleet of drivers that individuals volunteer for. Foodlink is open to filling in the gap anywhere else. So long as there are dedicated volunteers and drive, a cause worthy enough to work to the end!

Lastly, how can more young people get involved? We have many young volunteers who donate their time and energy, but not so much monetary resources. We have hundreds of requests, which we are working on replying to and getting volunteers to be more hands on. This includes working a shift at a charity event, bringing friends to a rice-packing event, shooting a documentary or designing a graphic for us.

Fooklink这个想法从何而来? 我的母亲在餐厅和朋友吃饭的时候发现剩下的菜 很多,因此在2001年,她们决定采取一些行动。 无家可归的人从垃圾车里取出食物的情形在我母 亲的脑海里挥之不去,因此她坚持要采取行动。 她开始从她有联系的酒店里收集剩菜。 寻找食物的捐赠者以及防止食物腐坏困难吗? 找到捐赠者非常容易,考虑到我们的董事会成员 中有的人与酒店业交情颇深。对于酒店来说,食 品安全是一个值得担忧的问题。而我们有责任豁 免权,如果有人吃了我们给的食物身体不适,我 们可以收到法律的保护。所有的食物,无论是水 果、海鲜还是面条,从酒店取出的时候都是新鲜 可食用的。我们请酒店决定如何将食物打包、提 供容器并在一个小时之内送达。有些食物是冷冻 或是真空包装的,这些食物需要再加热。另外一 些像面包这样的食物就是普通包装的。 大约多少回收的食物最终得到了利用? Foodlink每周收集大约2.2吨的食物,这可以从周 一到周五提供2000顿饭。其中大多数都是可以食 用的。 在中国的城市中造成食物浪费的最主要原因是什 么? 宴会是一个很大的问题。中国人本意不想浪费, 但是他们盛情招待客人只为自己的面子。婚礼同 样是一个可怕的问题。通常来说,四到五个菜就 足够了,但是有时我们会在菜单上看到超过十种 菜,这点毫无必要。 你在中国有什么计划? 我们在中国还没有发展,我们仍在改造我们的第 三辆货车。在此之后,我们可能会扩展到深圳或 广州,先从点心做起。 你认为Foodlink在5年中的发展是什么样的? 我希望Foodlink可以独立运营,募集的资金可以 保障我们的日常运营。我同样期盼香港居民能知 道我们是处理可食用剩菜的主要慈善机构。也许 我们会有一个由志愿者组成的车队。Foodlink也 对在其它地方发展持开放态度。只要有一群尽心 尽力的志愿者和动力,我们就能为着这个目标而 努力工作。 最后一个问题,如何才能让年轻人参与其中呢? 我们有很多年轻的志愿者为我们奉献时间和精 力,却没有足够的财政来源。我们收到了数百份 要求,我们正在努力回复,希望有更多的志愿者 能来帮助我们。工作很灵活,可以使在慈善活动 中轮班,也可带朋友到打包剩饭、拍摄纪录片或 设计图标的活动中。

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素 食 主 义 之 辩

Vegetarianism Is it just a fad or a true alternative? AERIS presents three perspectives… 这只是一时狂热还是切实可行的新方案? AERIS为您陈述了三种观点。

Caroline

Shanghai, AERIS China Editor 中国上海, 杂志编辑 Previously, vegetarians in my mind have always been religious people. But as material life grows ever more complex, I began to pursue a more natural lifestyle. Vegetarianism has risen, and even become mainstream, from a desire to find simplicity again. Celebrities are also furthering the trend of vegetarianism, making it more familiar to everyone, not only the religious. Actress Barbie Xu, Oscar-winning actress Natalie Portman, and Olympic champion Serena Williams have all declared themselves as vegetarian.

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从前提到吃素,脑海里总浮现出吃斋念佛的宗 教人士形象。但当物质生活发展得如此丰富直 到复杂的今天,部分人们开始追求返璞归真, 重归自然简单的生活方式,于是素食主义兴 起,甚至成为一种风潮。诸多名人向世界宣告 成为一名素食主义者,譬如女星大S,奥斯卡影 后娜塔莉波特曼,甚至奥运冠军小威廉姆斯。 名人效应引发吃素潮流, 将素食主义变成了与 宗教无关的时尚的生活方式。

As with all things, making alternative choices can be tough. While vegetarians promote their lifestyle, we also hear voices of disapproval. For example, nutritionists claim that the human body needs a comprehensive vitamin supply, especially for the young people, which a vegetarian diet cannot provide. So, should we become vegetarians?

越来越多的人开始吃素,原因却各不相同:有 人为了保护动物,保护环境;也有人仅仅为了 瘦身塑形,减少体重;还有人是出于对健康的 考虑或是宗教信仰。不同于以往的是,如今的 素食主义潮流加入了越来越多受过高等教育的 年轻人,吃素对于他们来说不仅是一种生活方 式,更是一种生活态度。

More and more people are becoming vegetarians, but their reasons vary — some for animal and environmental protection, some for a slim figure, others for health, and still many for religious beliefs. Unlike in the past, vegetarians today are increasingly well-educated and young. For many of them, it’s not only a lifestyle, but also a life attitude.

何新事物的发展过程都是艰难的,在素食主义支 持者们努力宣传提倡吃素的同时,我们也频繁听 到一些反对的声音:譬如,有营养专家表示,人 们的身体需要全面的补给,尤其是年轻人,而素 食不能均衡地提供肉类所能提供的营养。那么, 我们是否应该成为素食主义者?就这个问题,我 们搜集了中西方年轻人的不同意见。


PERSPECTIVE

Actually I’m totally for the vegetarian diet, because it can protect the environment and animals, as well as keep me healthy and slim. I’m only a half vegetarian because I need to intake some meat to balance my nutrition. Moreover, it’s hard to be a vegetarian in China since vegetarian restaurants are not common in China.

其实我个人非常提倡吃素,因为不仅能够保护 环境和动物,还能保持自身苗条健康。我自己 算是个半素食主义者,我没有完全吃素的原因 是,首先我认为需要摄取一些肉食来均衡营 养,其次这在素食餐馆还没有普遍的中国,完 全吃素不太可行。

I think that the issue depends on your motivations, and that personal choice should be respected. My advice is if you are a firm vegetarian for ethnical and environmental reasons, I think it is worthy and commendable, but be careful to get adequate nutrition from other sources. Some of us struggle to give up meat, but still want to protect animals. In this case, I think just reducing the intake of meat is a great start. I’m trying to do so right now! On the other hand, some girls just want to be vegetarian to lose their weight. In my opinion, they will eventually fail since their motivation is not deep enough, and if they go to extremes for weight-loss, they will harm their health.

所以我认为要视乎个人吃素的主观原因、动力 和客观可行性来看待这个问题,当然前提是尊 重个体的选择。我的建议是,如果你是出于道 德因素和环境因素而意志坚定地成为一个完全 素食主义者,我认为非常值得提倡和钦佩,只 是要注意营养的补给;但现实中不免部分人们 对肉食仍然抱有欲望,或者有迫不得已要吃肉 食的情况,但又非常想保护动物,这种情况下 我认为不用强求,只要尽量吃素,能够减少对 肉食的摄取也是一种进步。我自己就在慢慢进 步。而有些年轻女孩仅仅为了减肥而吃素,我 个人认为终有一天会因为动力不足而失败,而 且也不利于健康。

Besides, since there are few vegetarian restaurants in China, we are not willing to make trouble for friends when they invite us for meals, so becoming fully vegetarian seems impossible. That’s why I’m still a half vegetarian.

另外,因为中国大陆甚少纯粹的素食餐馆,而 且在这个注重人情的国土,因为怕麻烦别人或 者受朋友相邀影响,完全吃素不太可行。这也 是我没有完全成为素食主义者的重要原因。

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Chong Shao Sydney, AERIS Deputy Editor 悉尼, AERIS 杂志副主编

Becoming vegetarian is a big step to take. In the end it comes down to weighing up the two sides – the considerable benefit and pleasure derived from eating meat, versus the pain and death of the animal.

成为素食主义者是我做出的重要决定。食素 对我的影响体现在两个方面—与食肉相比, 食素给我带来了更多好处与快乐,反之食肉 带来的却是动物的死亡和痛苦。

While animals should be protected from killing if they are endangered, I think the real question that needs to be addressed is the needless suffering of animals that we farm — particularly of the warm-blooded variety. Factory farming is a worldwide, multi-billion dollar industry and the poor animals are frequently kept under appalling conditions. For the consumer, it really is “out of sight, out of mind.”

虽然濒临灭绝的动物被依法保护起来,但真 正的问题应该是被人类养殖的动物所受的痛 苦—尤其是哺乳动物。养殖业是一个全球范 围,数千亿美元的产业,而那些可怜的动物 所处的环境十分恶劣。对于消费者来说,这 却是“眼不见,心不烦”。

To forego all meat is hard to do, because of my personal preference (wagyu steak!) as well as its economic importance. However, we should all oppose the ruthless efficiency of the farming industry and promote the humane treatment of animals we eat.

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要完全放弃食肉是相当困难的,因为我的个 人喜爱(和牛牛排!)以及经济上的影响。 但是,我们应该反对养殖业无情的效率,人 道对待那些被人类所食用的动物。


PERSPECTIVE

David

Beijing China, artist 中国北京, 独立艺术家 I’m a vegetarian. I’m influenced by my vegetarian friends and by literature. I once read a book that said we should regard the pain of all the creatures as the pain of ourselves. That’s why I’ve become vegetarian. When you realise that the meat you eat comes from something so close to your own species, can you still eat it?

我是一个素食主义者。开始吃素是因为被周围 一些素食主义者的朋友还有一些书籍所影响。 我记得我曾经在一本书上看到:“我们应当把众 生的痛苦当做自己的痛苦。”这就是我吃素的 原因,当你意识到你所吃的肉食是来自于与你 一样的同类时,你是否还能下咽?

Some nutritional experts believe that vegetarians cannot have a balanced nutritional supply, but how can we hurt others to maintain our health? In fact, as we pay closer attention to our diet, and take health supplements and proteins to keep the balance, vegetarians can even be healthier than normal people.

有些营养专家认为,吃素不能获得均衡的营 养。但为了自己的健康就要谋害其他的生命, 是否太自私?而且,其实只要自己注意饮食搭 配,同时适当吃一些保健品就能均衡营养。总 体来说,素食主义者其实比一般人更加健康。

I’d like to share my own experience with you. I’ve been healthier since I became a vegetarian. I’be become more peaceful, patient and positive. I seldom get a cold, my stomach always feels good and I feel much stronger. The most interesting thing is, when my life becomes simpler, I enjoy it with extraordinary pleasure.

我想用亲身经历告诉大家,吃素不仅改善了我 的身体状况,甚至让我的心态也变得平和积极 了。吃素之后我很少感冒,肠道畅通,身材也 比以前精壮不少。最神奇的是,我的生活方式 开始变得简单,我更能感受到平凡的快乐,心 态日渐平和,连脾气也没有以前急躁了。

Being a vegetarian is beneficial both for you and other animals. Once you try, you will know it.

吃素对自己对其他动物都是好事,你尝试一下 便知。

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Anne Widjaja

Sydney, Student 悉尼, 学生

Should we become vegetarian to save animals? Before you decide to swear of tasty proteins for life, think hard about the defenceless animals you think your vegetarianism is actually protecting. Becoming a vegetarian may wipe your own animal-rightsconsciousness clean, but in the grander scheme of things, the agricultural industry is a considerably small player. Unfortunately, you and your vegetarian brand of heroism will be unlikely to come between a logging company and an acre of rainforest in the Amazon rainforest. It also won’t make a difference to the 0.4 per cent of CO2 emissions that the UN reports cows contribute to total CO2 levels. Whilst the logic behind a moral strand of vegetarianism is admirable, forgoing meat to try and make the world a better place is like refusing to buy Apple products. It’s a nice thought, but with you or without you they’ll go on taking over the world anyway.

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我们是否应该成为素食主义者来保护动物? 在你发誓要保护动物之前,请好好想想那些 你认为素食主义者试图要保护的动物。 成为素食主义者,可以体现你保护动物的良 心,但从宏观来看,农业在其中影响甚小。 很不幸,你和你的素食英雄主义将阻止不了 伐木公司对亚马逊热带雨林的砍伐。也不会 对大气中二氧化碳含量有所影响,尽管联合 国公布牛排出的二氧化碳量占全球总量的 0 .4 % 。 尽管素食主义者秉持的道德逻辑令人钦佩, 但放弃食肉以使世界变得更好的想法,就如 同拒绝购买苹果产品。这是美好的愿望,但 有没有你,这些产品同样会占领全世界。


PERSPECTIVE

Adam Farrow-Palmer SYDNEY, Television Producer 悉尼, 电视制片人

The prospect of eating lab-grown meat is extremely appealing to me. It would remove the burden of knowing a creature has died purely for my satisfaction. I commend vegetarians and vegans who put morality above their enjoyment of a pepper steak or roast lamb shoulder, but hypocritically, I do not join them. Leather shoes and restaurant meals are too hard to resist.

食用实验室肉类的前景令我感到兴奋。这 将消除我的心理负担,不再担心因为我的 私欲而另生灵死去。我钦佩素食主义者和 严格素食者,他们坚持高道德标准,而放 弃追求享受牛排或是羊肉,但严格说来, 我不会加入他们。皮鞋和餐厅美食实难抗 拒。

A utilitarian approach to protecting animals would surely involve universal vegetarianism but transition to this state would have to be made over many generations — there are too many economic and cultural systems that rely on eating meat.

保护动物急功近利的做法肯定包括素食主 义,但想达到这一步,得要经历好几代 人—有太多的经济和文化体系依赖于食用 肉类行业。

The energy and water required to raise, feed, slaughter and butcher animals is grossly higher than that of agricultural crops. Considering the likely threat of climate change and the ongoing famine in West Africa, perhaps we should turn vegetarian not to prevent harm to animals, but to protect humanity.

饲养和屠杀动物所消耗的能量和水远远超 出种植农作物所用的资源。考虑到气候变 化的威胁和持续的西非饥荒,也许成为一 个素食主义者并不仅仅是为了避免对动物 的伤害,而是为了保护人类自身。

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Mandy Shenzhen

中国深圳, 公司白领 I neither oppose nor advocate the vegetarian diet, since what you eat depends on personal preference and choice. People should not advocate or oppose others’ diets. However, a vegetarian diet is not always helpful.

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我不反对但也不提倡吃素,因为吃什么是个人 喜好和选择,没必要提倡或者反对来影响别人 的做法。而且吃素不一定都有好的影响。

Firstly, nature has its own food chain. As long as we don’t eat the rare animals, and follow the rules of nature, we will not hurt the environment. Besides, are plants not creatures? Should we stop eating and drinking completely, in order to protect the environment? It is a matter of how we consume.

首先,自然界有其自己的食物链。生命即使再平 等,保护动物也是有区别有等级的。只要我们 不吃一些珍稀动物,遵循自然规则,就不算是破 坏环境或者伤害动物。这也是我们设立保护动 物这个准的原因。而且,难道植物就不是生命 了么?为了保护环境我们没必要不吃不喝吧。

Additionally, livestock farming has become a huge industry, which has generated vast economic benefits and provided employment to millions of people around the world. If people stopped eating meat, the livelihoods of everyone in that industry would be lost.

其次,养殖业早已成为了一个产业,不仅产生 巨大的经济效益,还提供着大量的就业机会。 如果有一天大家都不吃肉了,这个产业就会濒 临灭绝,那么经济下降,人们失业都是在所难 免的了 。

Overall, I think the vegetarian diet has little benefit for the environment. There would also be a negative impact on the economy if everyone become vegetarians.

所以我认为吃素保护环境的作用并不大,我们 只要顺应自然规律就好。而且如果要全民吃素 还要考虑一下对经济发展的影响。


前 人 栽 树 , 后 人 乘 凉

生 命 的 本 质 在 于 奉 献

The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under whose shade you do not expect to sit.

— Nelson Henderson — 尼尔逊·亨德逊 Garden leading on By Ann Mei

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China dist 's u arti rbia sts

中国 艺术 梦想 家

AERIS Talks to Tom Pattinson, Affordable Arts Beijing Founder and Director, about the value of art beyond investment, along with China’s emerging art genres — and the dark side beneath them. AERIS对 话 Tom Pattinson, 北京平价艺术创始人及总监 , 探 讨 多 方 位 的 艺 术 价 值 投 资, 中国的新兴艺术形态,以及其黑暗面。 When did you establish Affordable Arts Beijing (AAB)? Our first event was held in April 2006.

Why did you set up shop in Beijing? I was based in Beijing having moved back to the city in 2005 to working in publishing. At the time the art scene was really booming and there were galleries popping up all over the city. My office was in 798, which was the centre of the arts in China and very vibrant. I’d spend my lunch times walking around galleries wishing I could afford some of the incredible art I saw. It was more luck than by design that I was already working in China in the heart of the country’s art centre and saw a huge gap in the market.

你 是 什 么 时 候 创 办 北 京 平 价 艺 术 品 (A A B )的 ? 我们的第一个活动室在2006年4月举行的。 为什么你决定在北京开店? 我2005年回到了北京,在出版业工作。在 那个时候,艺术业正在蓬勃发展,城市里 到处都有新的画廊开张。当时我的办公室在 798,这里是中国的艺术中心,十分有活 力。我喜欢在午饭时间到处逛画廊,希望有 一天可以负担得起那些无与伦比的艺术品。 我很幸运能通过机缘巧合在中国的艺术中心 工作,看到了巨大的市场空间。

In those first years (2005-2006) there was some great art on sale in China but normally going for tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars. I remember seeing artists such as Zhang Xiaogang and Feng Zhengjie in relatively small galleries selling for just tens of thousands of dollars. By 2008 these same artists were selling for hundreds of thousands if not millions of dollars at auction houses in New York and Hong Kong.

在你开始你的项目之后,中国的艺术品市场 有何变化? 刚开始的两年在中国有许多伟大的艺术品代 售,但是价钱几乎只需几千或几万。我记得 像张晓刚和俸正杰这样的艺术家在一些很 小的画廊里卖着几万元的作品。但是,到了 2008年,同样的艺术家的作品已经能在纽 约或是香港的拍卖行里买到上十万甚至上百 万的价钱。

Some of the more expensive works dipped a little during the global recession and this is when we saw the affordable art market really start to pick up. We spent a lot of time trying to discuss the merits of art as an aesthetic rather than an investment and that art is a part of culture and lifestyle, not just an alternative to the stock market… Now this is something more and more Chinese buyers are understanding.

一些比较贵的作品在世界经济衰退的时期价 格略有下降,也是在同一时期,我们发现了 平价艺术品的市场开始发展了。我们花了许 多时间探讨艺术品在审美而不是投资方面的 有点,认为艺术品是一种文化、一种生活方 式,而不是股票市场的替代品。现在越来越 多的中国买家开始理解这个概念了。

How has China’s artistic landscape evolved since you began?

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CULTURE

Untitled 无题 Bao Xiaoyu 包晓伟 170 x 140cm, 2008 Oil on Canvas, 布面油画

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EW 呃 Zhang Yuanfeng 张原风 170 x 140cm, 2008

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CULTURE

a s i m r o f y n a n i t t a r h a t t t a a y th t e y i a c s o s s I alway ow onto the ment in time. mo m wind l i f d n (a t r a y r t. a n r e o r p e f m e if t d n o o c n e s Chines iterature) i and l We’ve seen in the last two to three years a new depth to the art market with events and galleries around the mainland working more with younger emerging artists and trying to attract a younger generation of buyers. This is a great trend, as we are seeing art become accessible to a wider audience and the notion of art as a lifestyle choice and not a luxury item being accepted by more and more people.

我们在过去的两三年中发现中国的艺术 品市场举办的活动和画展越来越有深 度,设计许多新晋的艺术家,试图吸引 年轻的买家。这是一个很好的趋势,因 为我们发现艺术品的受众越来越广,越 来越多的人开始接受艺术品是一种生活 方式而不是奢侈品的概念。

In what ways do the artworks allow for greater expression of societal change in modern China?

艺术作品有哪些方式可以更充分地表达 现代中国的社会变化? 我一直认为任何形式的艺术都是反映当 时社会的一扇窗口,中国的当代艺术, 包括电影和文学,也都是如此。因此, 我们可以看到当代艺术许多的变化和 社会的变化都是相对应的。70年代末 第一批当代艺术家的作品多以抽象主 义为主,关注新技法以及表达自由的物 象。90年代时的作品主题则关注社会主 义和资本主义的碰撞。而如今的年轻艺 术家在作品中表达了对于他们在世界中 的位置所存在的困惑,关注一些颇具争 议性的话题,如言论制裁、环境问题以 及社会问题。

I always say that art in any form is a window onto the society at that moment in time. Chinese contemporary art (and film and literature) is no different. Therefore we can see many changing trends of contemporary art that coincide with the changes in modern Chinese society: from the abstract styles and new methods and subjects of liberty from the first contemporary artists in the late 1970s, to the well-known pop artworks of the 1990s featuring clashes between socialism and capitalism, to today’s works from younger artists questioning their place in the world and more controversial subjects relating to censorship, environment and social unrest.

Many of the artworks seem to possess a dark side. What are the most common ‘disturbia’ themes you’ve picked up on? Many of the younger artists will naturally go through a darker phase but isolation is certainly a reoccurring theme. Many of these artists are children of the one-child generation who are very much an individual in their own eyes but are just part of the great masses in the eyes of the government or outsiders. There is this questioning of whether they can really make a difference to what they see going on but don’t necessarily support. For example Kong Lingnan’s work is very dark with black canvasses streaked

许多艺术作品看起来都存在着阴暗面, 那你选择过的最普遍的阴暗主题是什 么? 许多年轻的艺术家都会很自然地经历一个 描绘黑暗面的阶段,其中“孤独”是一个 很普遍的主题。他们当中的许多人都是独 生子女,在自己看来独一无二,但在政府 以及旁观者看来只是芸芸众生中的一份子 子。他们不知自己能否改变现状,得不到 必要的支持,于是便产生了疑问。例如孔

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CULTURE

Untitled 无题 Xu Xiaobo 徐晓波 80 x 60cm, 2010 Vagrant Oil on Canvas , 布面油画

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White House 白屋子 Cheng Chen 程晨 30 x 22cm Paper, 纸

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CULTURE

t a h w s r a . e o y d 3 0 ry to n i e e u n t h o t n d e n c s i a a d h e r t . a e t c n v e i r o l a h f l C s e l t r e i n w f e o k e y o b t o i s t s a e r h e p , v o di E u r T h i s to o

with paint to look like neon. Her subject matter covers loneliness, death and most importantly the impact we are having on the environment. There is the question that I think many young people in China ask: “we know it’s not right but can we really make any difference?”

It seems the genres are so vast that China is going through every art period Europe went through from the Renaissance to the 21st century. What do you think is driving that variety? Quite simply the pace of China. China has done in 30 years what Europe took well over a century to do. This too, has been reflected in the diversity of its art. Don’t forget many of the well known Chinese artists of today lived through the Cultural Revolution, mass famine, political upheaval like never seen elsewhere in the modern world. The change from this to China being the economic powerhouse of the world is hard to fathom. Meanwhile China still has many social issues it needs to deal with in relation to freedoms of movement, expression and speech, rule of law and civil uncertainty. The government has its influence on art whether overtly or not and the tastes and moods of the authorities obviously affect that too.

How do you choose paintings with potential — as an investment or an adornment?

I never suggest people buy a work purely as an investment. The art market, like any other market fluctuates and so there is always the risk in buying art as an investment that it will go down as well as up. The nice thing about affordable art is that your risk are lowest but your rewards are greatest. We work with art that normally under US$5,000 so if it depreciates in price then you can’t lose too much, while it has the potential to go up and up and up. We’ve sold work for US$1,000 that has gone on to sell for US$40,000 and while this is the exception rather than the rule, many, many works do appreciate.

令楠的作品总是在黑色的画布上撒上颜 色,看上去像霓虹灯。她所关注的主题包 括孤独、死亡以及我们对自然的影响。我 认为许多中国的年轻人都在问这样一个问 题:“我们都知道一件事不对,但是我们 有能力改变它吗?” 中国的艺术类型似乎十分广泛,包括了欧 洲从文艺复兴开始到二十一世纪的每一种 艺术形式。你认为推动这种多样性的是什 么原因? 是由于中国的发展速度。中国在30年间 完成了欧洲花了超过一个世纪才完成的事 情,这点同样反映在了艺术的多样性上。 不要忘记现在许多著名的中国艺术家都经 历过文化大革命、大饥荒和在其他地方前 所未见的政治变革。从这些东西到成为世 界经济强国的改变时很难弄清楚的。与此 同时,中国仍面临着许多社会问题,如游 行及言论自由、法制及民权的不确定性。 政府对艺术有着或多或少公开的影响,当 局的偏好和心情显然对艺术类型也有影 响。 你是如何在选择作品时判断其潜力的?是 比较注重投资上的还是欣赏上的潜力? 我从不建议别人纯粹为了投资而购买艺术 品。艺术品市场和其它市场一样,有起有 落,因此将艺术品作为一项投资的话还是 存在风险的。平价艺术品的好处在于在 风险最小化的情况下保证利益最大化。我 们处理的艺术品价格基本上在5000美金 以下,因此就算它贬值,损失也不会很 大,况且它升值的潜力很大。我们曾售 出过价值1000美金的作品,后来卖到了 40000美金。尽管这是个极端的特例,

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80


CULTURE

Habitat Yang Ling 杨玲 103 x 107cm 2010

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However I think art should be about buying an aesthetic, something to adorn the walls of your house or office and something to remind you of a time and a place. I have never sold any works of art I have bought because they now allhave some kind of sentimental value to me. I love having the idea that people come over for dinner and see a work on the wall and we can have a conversation about it. For me that’s much more important than having some works in a warehouse somewhere.

What is your price range — how affordable are we talking? The accepted global number for affordable art is about US$5,000. However our prices are currently a little lower than that. In fact, the lowest price of works in Beijing this year was 200 and the highest was 20,000 RMB. The average price of works sold this year was around 6,000 RMB.

At a time when Chinese art has never been more expensive, what is the biggest challenge you face in pioneering the country’s affordable art market? One of the biggest challenges has been to enable the wider public to understand that art is something that is not just limited to the super wealthy. When young local couples come to our event and see that they can take home a work of art for less than half the price of a designer handbag, it’s incredible to witness that awakening and enjoy their excitement.

What has been the greatest reward for you? For me it has been getting to know the artists and seeing them blossom. So many of these artists are tucked away in little studios in small villages, often without a channel to display and sell their works. But for me to share their joy when they sell works and grow in their career is incredibly rewarding. I am doing a show with Red Gate Gallery in Beijing in September to showcase some of the best talent discovered so far this year and for many of them it will be their first gallery show. I’m not sure who is more excited — me or the artists themselves!

911 Zhou YUan 周源 120 x 90cm, 2008 Acrylic on Canvas, 布面丙烯

Images courtesy of Affordable Arts Beijing

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CULTURE 但是很多作品还是升值了的。 然而我认为购买艺术品是,审美才是主要 的考量。它是一样能放在家中或是办公室 里让你欣赏、让你回忆起某事某地 的一 种美好的食物。我从来没有出售过 我购 买的作品,因为它们对我来说有种情感上 的联系。我很享受家里来客人吃饭的时 候,我们可以看着墙上的作品,聊聊天。 对我来说,这比将一些作品存在仓库里要 重要得多。 所谓平价艺术品的价格范围大概是多少? 国际上公认的标准大约是5000美金,而 我们的价格基本上比这个价格还要略微 低一些。事实上,今年在北京卖出的最 低价的作品价值200人民币,最高的则 达到20000人民币。今年的均价大约是 6000人民币。 在中国艺术品价格居高不下的时候,你们 在开创中国平价艺术品市场的过程中遇到 的最大的挑战是什么? 最大的挑战之一就是让公众认识到艺术并 不是富裕阶级的专属品。当年轻人来参加 我们活动,发现一件艺术品的价格仅仅是 名牌包的一半,他们的喜悦溢于言表。 在此过程中最大的收获是什么? 对我来说是认识艺术家,看着他们成长。 许多艺术家都受困于偏远的小工作室内, 没有展示、销售他们的渠道。而我最大的 收获就是在他们售出作品、不断成长时, 与他们分享喜悦。我现在正在与北京的红 门画廊筹办一个9月的展览,将会展出我 们今年新发掘的艺术家的作品,这是他们 当中很多人的第一次展览。我甚至比他们 更激动。

Submit your art to

提交艺术作品请发邮件至: info@affordableartchina.com

Browse the latest collection 浏览最新的展览资讯请访问:

www.affordableartchina.com

Visit Affordable Art Beijing at 地址:

6 Babaokeng Hutong, Doncheng District, Beijing 中 国 朝 阳 区 顺 义 区 二 经 路 1号 邮 政 编 码 : 100621

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DESIGN

At Home in the Hutongs 胡同巷里的家 AERIS peeks inside the Beijing home of Editor-in-Chief, Grace Brown. Between a busy life as a CNC World anchor and editing AERIS, her airy ground-floor apartment in one of the city’s East hutongs lets her come home to calm, with a little inspiration from the misty West Mountains and Gobi desert… AERIS近距离地看我们总编Grace Brown位于北京的家。这套坐落于北京东城区胡同 的一楼公寓, 使的她能够在繁忙奔走于两个不同身份(CNC世界频道的主播和AERIS 的编辑)的同时,回到家让身心平静放松,同时吸收着来自朦胧西山和戈壁滩的灵感。

What was your design concept? I wanted it to feel like Beijing, but not the city — which can be wonderful if you need energy or excitement, but at home, I just need calm! Luckily, you don’t have to look far to find something calming in Beijing. You have the yellow, dry Gobi desert, which I find so intriguing. It blows into the air and the colours throughout the city always look a little more yellow because of that golden dust… I had my wall painted mustard yellow, to remind me of that desert beyond. We also have the spectacular West Mountains surrounding the city. I found a mesmerising black and white photo of mountains, mist and pine that so reminded me of this in IKEA and bought it immediately. It faces my bed and it’s the best thing to wake up to. I also love the very Northern, towering, awkward-shaped pines that line the roads in Beijing… I bought some plastic pine leaves in IKEA to put in a jug to remind me of their presence. I’ve also collected pinecones trekking in Italy with my boyfriend, which I find add warmth to the living room (and remind me of our adventure!).

你设计的理念是什么? 我想我的设计带有北京的气息,但不是指这个城市本身 — 如果你需要力量或是刺激,那么这种重视城市本身的设计就 十分美好的。但是对于我来说,在家中,我就只需要平静。 幸运的是,你不需要百般周折才在这个城市找到平静。这儿 有土黄色的干燥戈壁滩,而这让我很是着迷。滩上的沙粒被 风吹散飘散,在空中形成了黄色的沙尘,从而使得整个城市 看起来略带有一点土黄色。我把墙都刷成了芥末黄,以此来 提醒我那远处的戈壁滩。另外,这个城市被那美妙的西山环 绕。我在宜家的时候找到了一张让我着迷的黑白照片:里面 有成片的山脉,茫茫的雾以及挺拔的橡树,而这也让我想起 西山。我立刻就把它买下来,并把它放在床面对的地方。每 天早上起床看到它的时候觉得很舒服。同时,我还十分喜欢 那巍峨,奇形怪状在北京沿路生长的橡树…我从宜家买了一 些塑料制的橡树树叶,并把这些叶子放在一个容器中,这样 子使的我时刻都意识到它们的存在。此外,我还收集了一些 我和男朋友在意大利时采集的松果。这大大增添了客厅的温 馨感(也时常提醒我们在一起的旅程)。

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DESIGN Why did you embrace natural influences? My mum always said the closer you are to nature, the more peaceful you’ll feel. I think there’s a great deal of truth to that… Even if you live in a big city, small touches can bring nature into your home and restore balance. Small details like rattan storage accessories, wooden photo frames and scented coral and driftwood make a place immediately cosy.

Do you have a colour theme? Absolutely: white, cream, grey, brown, ‘Gobi’ yellow, pine green and ‘Ming’ blue. These are the colours of the pagodas and parks in Beijing, as well as colours that make me feel more relaxed. Its so important to have a colour theme and stick to it! Your eyes need to be looking at complementary colours, or they cannot feel at ease. It’s like someone wearing mismatching colours. While red is my favourite to wear, I am too energetic already… different shades of red at home would suit someone who needs more energy!

Where did you get your wall stickers? The dandelion stickers on the ‘Gobi’ wall remind me of desert flowers, as well as dandelions that grow in the English countryside back home. I bought them this summer in the Parisian home department store, BHG, under the label ‘PARISTIC’. They were about 200 RMB for a whole wall. I bought the words ‘It was my home once’ at the same store, 3 years ago. It was stuck to the wall at my old student apartment in Sydney that I shared with my best friend, so it’s very fitting.

Do you love or loath clutter? I don’t like clutter. I like everything to be neat, clean and tidy. But that said, I never throw away birthday cards! So I need elegant storage, like wood or card file holders. I bought mine at IKEA… and yes it’s my favourite store!

Are your parents the same? Yes… My mum’s a designer and working in Hong Kong, she always knew how to make great use of small spaces. I learned from her how to organise walls to optimise storage in an aesthetically pleasing way. And my dad’s an extreme neat freak. He’s a reporter so he sees a lot of devastating places. When he comes home, he always cleans, sometimes scrubbing the same surface again and again like Lady Macbeth… I used to make fun of him, but I think I inherited his obsessive-compulsive cleanliness myself!

What is the most meaningful art in your house? My ‘dah’ Russia poster in my kitchen, given to me by my old roomie from Sydney, who is half-Ukranian. She bought it on the subway on holiday last summer in Moscow. It reminds me of her and all the times we pretended to be Russian to get free food from gullible men at parties! I now live in the Russian district, so it also reminds me of my wacky neighbourhood too.

What is the first thing you do when you get home? I eat two pieces of dark Lindt chocolate dipped in nutella and some fruit, sitting on my couch watching the BBC World Service and imitating the presenters. When I have abetted my immediate post-work hunger I go for a run in Ritan Park nearby. Then I sit at my pine desk, check Dropbox and start editing AERIS!

为什么你的设计中包含大自然的因素? 我妈妈常常告诉我,如果你和大自然越亲近,你就越能感 受到心里的平静。我认为这其中含有许多真理。即便你生 活在大城市当中,小小的细节能使得你的家充满大自然的 气息,并重新获得平衡。比如说藤条做的储藏饰品,木质 的相框框架,亦或是带有香味的珊瑚礁和浮木可以让一个 地方立马变得舒适惬意。 你有一个主题色彩吗? 当然啦,像是纯白,奶白,灰,棕,戈壁黄,橡木绿和青 兰。这些不仅是北京的佛塔和公园中常见的颜色,还是让我 觉得惬意的颜色。我觉得拥有一个主题色彩并且贯穿始终是 十分重要的。你的眼睛需要看这些喜好的颜色,否则它们很 难感到舒适。这就好比有些人穿衣时颜色搭配失误。虽然红 色是我最喜欢的衣物颜色,但我已经是一个充满活力的人… 在家中融入不同种的红色会更加适合那些需要精力的人! 你从哪里获得你墙上的帖子? 在戈壁滩色墙纸上的蒲公英贴纸让我时常想起沙漠中的花 朵,以及那些在家乡英国郊外生长的蒲公英。我是今年夏 天在巴黎风格的家具百货公司BHG买的,而它们都被分 入“巴黎风”的商品种类。整面墙的帖子加起来大概是 200元人民币。我三年前在那儿还买过一个“这曾经是我 的家”的贴纸,它被贴到我在悉尼时和我好朋友共享的前 学生公寓,感觉很合适。 你喜欢还是讨厌混杂的感觉? 我一点也不喜欢混杂。我喜欢所有东西都是干干净净,整 整洁洁的。说是这么说,但是我从来不会扔掉我的生日卡 片!因此,为了保持整洁干净,我需要一些雅致的收容工 具,像是木质的或卡片做的收容盒。我在宜家买了我的这 个收容盒。对了,宜家是我最喜欢的商店! 你父母也和你一样吗? 是的。我的母亲是一名设计师,现在在香港工作。她总是 知道如何最大限度的利用狭小的空间。比如说,我从她那 里学会了如何组织墙并利用墙来扩大容量,同时又不失美 观。我的父亲是一个极端的洁癖者。他作为一名记者,见 过许多灾难性的地方。每当他回到家,他会立刻清理,有 时甚至会一遍一遍地擦拭同一块表面,就像莎翁笔下的马 克白夫人一样!我曾经因为这个取笑过他,但现在我觉得 我从他那儿继承了他的极端强制的洁癖! 在你的房子中,最有意义的艺术品是什么? 贴在我的厨房的一大张俄罗斯海报,是一个我以前在悉尼 读大学时的室友送给我的。她拥有一半的乌克兰血统。去 年夏天在俄罗斯度假的时候,她在地铁上买了这张海报并 送给了我。这张海报经常让我想起她,以及我们以前在派 对中为了从那些轻信的人那儿拿到免费的食物而模仿俄罗 斯人的时光。而现在在北京,我住在以前的苏联管辖区。 因此,这张海报也经常提醒我我住的这个奇怪的小区。 你回家第一件事做什么? 我会吃两块蘸有Nutella酱的Lindt牌黑巧克力和水果,然 后坐在沙发上看BBC广播电视的世界系列节目,并模仿节 目的主持人。当我满足了我的饥饿感后,我就会到附近的 日坛公园慢跑。在之后?我就会坐在我的橡木桌子前,开 始查dropbox和编辑AERIS的文稿!

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Interior Eye: A Cut above Contemporary

As apartments and condos rise higher, why not keep grounded with items for your home that pay homage to mother nature? Vancouver-based interior consultant, Farah Malik, shares how… Get the trend: From Fashion to Furnishings, a combination of these modern shapes and textures can make your home exude flair that is unique to you. 现今社会,公寓越建越高,我们何不把眼光转移,关注一 些摆放在家中,但又可以向大自然致敬的一些物品?Farah Malik,一名来自温哥华的室内设计师顾问,和我们分享她 的理念。 一起来了解这一趋势:从时尚到装潢,一个完美的设计和 材质的结合可以使得你的家充满了你的独特气息。

Matrix Otto Make a statement with this lighting fixture that offers both beauty and functionality. With adjustable stainless steel arms and interchangeable bulbs, the Matrix Otto (HKD 7,500) by Lumina can be tailored to suit your style. Available exclusively at Kitchen + Interiors, find yours at:

www.kitchenandinteriors.hk 这一矩阵型灯饰(港币7,500元)同时提供了美丽和功能。由可 调不锈钢制造,以及互换灯泡,Lumina的这一款矩阵型灯具 可以为你量身定制,使其更加适合你的风格。只有在Kitchen+ Interiors才能找到这一设计,你可以在以下网站找到你的那一款。

www.kitchenandinteriors.hk

Lattice Candle Holder For occasions where mood lighting is preferred, the Lattice Candle Holder (GBP 57) from Shanghai Tang is the ideal light source. Available in red and blue, both are sure to add a hint of the orient to your home. Get a closer look at:

www.shanghaitang.com/ en/shop 有时候,有些场合需要独 特的合乎氛围光照的点 缀。Shanghai Tang的这一款 格烛台便是一个合适的光源。 有红色和蓝色两种颜色供选 择。不管是哪一种都肯定可以

Very much derived from nature, these organically shaped Driftwood Table Lamps (HKD 4,950) by TREE are versatile and can complement many spaces. Add organic elegance to your home with your very own from:

www.tree.com.hk/

为你的家增添一丝东方的气

从大自然获得的灵感,这一系列由TREE设计的原创有机浮木

息。在以下网站详细了解!

桌式台灯(港币4,950元)有多种设计,可以融入并点亮不同

www.shanghaitang.com/ en/shop

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Driftwood Table Lamps:

的空间。你可以从以下网站找到这款独一无二的台灯,并为你 的家添加有机雅致感。

www.tree.com.hk/


DESIGN

Lacquer Sapelli Box

OVO Rattan Chair The simple elegance of the OVO Rattan Chair (HKD 5,900) makes it a perfect match for patio and poolside spaces. With an ergonomic shape and soft curves, it is made for the outdoors. Have a closer look at:

The beautiful, Lacquer Sapelli Box (GBP 206) from Shanghai Tang is conveniently sized and available in navy blue and red. This multi-purpose box can be a thoughtful gift or the perfect tabletop accessory. Discover the colour that suits you best at:

www.shanghaitang.com/en/shop 这一款 Shanghai Tang 推出的天然漆沙比利木质盒子(英 鎊206元)非常漂亮,大小也十分合适,并同时有海军蓝和

www.ovo.com.hk

红色两种颜色供选择。这一个多功能盒子可以是一件细致的

这一简单别致的OVO竹藤制椅(港币5,900元),其设计

礼物或是一个完美的桌面装饰品。前往Shanghai

十分适合庭院和池畔空间。符合人体工学的形状和曲线, 它很适合在户外使用。在以下网站详细了解。

Tang的

网站上找到那款最适合你的颜色吧!

www.shanghaitang.com/en/shop

www.ovo.com.hk

Flo Desk Lamp

OVO Wire Chair This retro-inspired Wire Chair (HKD 2,200) by OVO is a true expresesion of urban design. The wire shapes create beautiful silhouettes and also serve as an art piece for both commercial and residential spaces. Have a look at: www.ovo.com.hk 这一款OVO复古型的金属丝制扶手椅(港币2,200元)表达了真正的时

The Flo Desk Lamp (From HKD 5,600) by Lumina offers much more than a sleek appearance. Featuring a dimmable LED light and rotating lamp head, this functional fixture provides both general and task lighting — a seamless fit for any interior. Also available as a floor lamp, view:

www.kitchenandinteriors.hk 由Lumina设计的泛光桌式台灯(港币5,600元)不仅仅提供 一个玲珑的外观。其特点是一个淡淡的LED灯和一个旋转式 的灯头,这一设计提供了两种灯照方式:普通和具体照射。

尚都市感。金属丝制的形状营造了以美丽的轮廓,同时也为商业和住宅空

在任何室内设计都能无缝契合。同时这一设计也有落地灯

间增添一件艺术品。你可以在该网站上了解详细信息!

款,请前往以下网站查询。

www.ovo.com.hk

www.kitchenandinteriors.hk

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WORLD

AERIS TALKS to the Bouey Brothers

What was your childhood amongst the vineyards like? As far as we remember, wine and vineyards have been part of the family and our daily life. Our grandfather Roger, our dad Serge and our uncle André where not only family, but also a team. From spring to autumn, Sundays and holidays were either spent in the Médoc vines, or at home in Saint-Loubès (between Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion), or at the family summer house, in the Cap Ferret on the Bassin d’Arcachon… always with good food, much wine and a friendly, simple atmosphere! Year after year they shared with us their passion for these things, and more importantly, the respect for family traditions and links between generations. Later as teenagers, we had the chance to work at the winery, helping them make wine and learning about the vineyard cycles season after season.

…the owners of the last independent vineyard in Bordeaux about the pride of carrying on their grandfather’s business, and how the region’s wine industry has become more sustainable. Bouey兄弟是波尔多最后一个独立葡萄园的拥 有者,他们与我们谈论了继承祖父事业的荣 耀,以及当地的葡萄酒产业可持续发展的进 程。

在葡萄园度过的童年是什么样的? 从我们记事开始,葡萄酒和葡萄园就是我们 家庭生活的一部分。我们的祖父Roger,父亲 Serge和叔叔André不仅是家人,更是一个团 队。春季秋季之间的周日和假期或是在梅多克 的葡萄园,或是在位于波尔多和圣达美隆之间 的Saint-Loubès的家中,或是在位于阿卡雄湾 费拉角的避暑别墅中度过。但是我们无论在哪 里,都有美食、好酒和轻松愉快的气氛相伴。 年复一年,他们对这些东西的热情感染着我 们。更重要的是,他们与我们分享对家庭传统 以及长幼之间联系的尊重。到了我们十几岁的 时候,我们开始有机会在酒厂工作,帮助他们 制作葡萄酒,并且熟悉葡萄园的季节周期。

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Grandfather Roger Bouey in the vineyards of Bordeaux, France


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Were you allowed to drink from a younger age (to taste, of course…)? We do not remember precisely at what age we started to drink (I mean taste) wine… maybe we don’t want to remember! But of course, being raised within a family of wine growers and merchants meant that every family reunion, big or small, was an occasion to open great bottles of wine! We’ve been fortunate to gain experience from a young age about what quality, tradition and excellence mean.

In what ways did your grandfather shape you? For us, our grandfather has always been an example for hard work, perseverance and pride in his work. He lived a long life (he died in 2000, in his 100th year) as a strong man, mentally and physically. He was very respectful of tradition, heritage and transmission across generations. At the same time, he was always curious for new innovations, development and progress. In these ways and many others he has always been, and still is, an example in our family.

How has staying independent helped Maison Bouey compete against other major wine companies? When you control your company 100% within the same family, with only 2 shareholders, decisions are easier to make and new ideas faster to implement. We are a big company with all the advantages of size for our customers (large offering, modern facilities, efficient teams, logistics, sourcing) — yet we’re also small, independent and family-owned, with flexibility and quick reaction to market changes. We are almost the only wine merchant like this left in Bordeaux!

What do you enjoy most about making wine? The daily contact with the growers, the wine makers, and our customers. Also, the fact we work with a ‘product’ which means so many good and positive things: conviviality, gastronomy, pleasure, arts, culture, agriculture… Few other products today mean all this at once! We feel lucky and proud to work in wine.

你还小的时候被允许品尝葡萄酒吗? 我不记得我们开始品尝葡萄酒的确切 年份,或许我们也不愿想起来。当 然,在这样一个制作、售卖葡萄酒的 家庭中长大,每次大大小小的家庭聚 会时喝美妙的葡萄酒是必不可少的。 你们的祖父给你们带来了怎样的影 响? 对于我们来说,我们的祖父一直是勤 劳、坚韧和为工作自豪的典范。他很 长寿,到100岁时才去世。他一直是 一个坚强的人,无论是身体上还是精 神上。他十 分尊重传统的继承,但与 此同时又对创新发展非常好奇。不管 是过去还是现在,他一直是我们家庭 的榜样。 保持独立的经营对Bouey与其它葡萄酒 厂商的竞争中有什么帮助? 当你对公司有100%的控制权、只有 两个家人作为股东时,做决定就更加 简单,新的想法也更容易实施。从我 们的顾客来看,我们是一家大公司。 我们收到很大的订单,有着现代化的 设备、高效的团队、运输和采购,我 们也得益于此。但我们同时又是一家 小公司,独立、由家族运营,十分灵 活,应对市场上的改变十分迅速。在 波尔多像我们这样的酒商应该仅此一 家了。 制作红酒给你们带来最大的乐趣是什 么? 每天与种植园、制造商和客户打交道 的过程。另外,我们的产品的意义远 不止葡萄酒那么简单,还代表了许多 美好的事物:交际、美食、愉悦、艺 术、文化、农业。现在很少有东西能 有这么多含义。我们对于能在这个行 业里工作感到非常幸运和自豪。

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Patrick Bouey

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We have to remember that we come from the earth, that nature feeds us — if we want to be fed correctly, we have to take care of it. How has Bordeaux changed since you were young? Bordeaux has expanded to new horizons, such as China and Russia. It has developed to new consumer audiences, who are much younger, more relaxed, millennial drinkers. As a result, our city of Bordeaux itself has changed dramatically over the last 25 years, becoming a more and more magical showcase of ancient wine culture.

波尔多的酒庄和你小时候比起来有了那 些改变? 波尔多开始开辟新市场了,例如中国和 俄罗斯。它的客户也逐渐发展到了更 年轻、更休闲的人群。因此,波尔多在 过去的25年中经历了巨大的变化,变 得越来越像一个古老葡萄酒文化的陈列 馆。

Should wine be for fun or investment? Invest in fun — and with fun!

Do you feel offended that the Chinese sometimes mix a Bordeaux with Coco Cola…?

葡萄酒是一种娱乐还是投资? 把它当作一种娱乐去投资,并且带着乐 趣去投资!

Not the Chinese friends we work with. Though you definitely do not need to sweeten or mix our Maison Bouey Bordeaux, they are perfect blends! More seriously, if this is true and not a cliché, we can only say that we notice year after year that our Chinese friends are more and more wine educated, becoming wine connoisseurs and lovers. One day soon, I’m sure they’ll know as much about wine as the French!

有些中国人把波尔多葡萄酒和可乐混在 一起喝,你会生气吗? 与我们合作的中国朋友不会这样。尽管 我们绝对不会这样做,但是他们混在一 起确实不错。如果这个情况是真的话, 我们只能说中国客户对葡萄酒越来越了 解了。总有一天他们会像法国人一样了 解葡萄酒。

How can the wine industry become more sustainable?

葡萄酒行业怎么才能变得更可持续? 现在这个行业的变化几乎是颠覆性的。 对于每个人来说,我们都要记住我们来 自地球,自然滋养着我们。因此对于大 自然,己所不欲勿施于人,我们必须呵 护大自然。这不仅是为了我们自己,更 是为了我们的下一代。我们采用了更可 持续的种植方法,过去几年中在家里以 及Bouey酒庄生产有机的葡萄酒。很多 与我们合作的生产商也是这样做的。

The evolution in progress is almost a revolution. It is everybody’s responsibility beyond wine. We have to re member that we come from the earth, that nature feeds us — if we want to be fed correctly, we have to take care of it. It is in our own interest and the next generation’s. We’ve moved on to sustainable farming, biodynamics and organic winemaking over the past few years, on our family estates and at Maison Bouey winery. The same is true for many producers we work with.

Lastly, what is your advice to young people looking to enter this industry? Go ahead — it’s fun, it’s life, it is continuously changing and evolving, there are new opportunities every day!

最后,你对想要进入这个行业的年轻人 有什么建议? 大胆地去做吧,这是一种乐趣,也是一 种生活方式。这个行业不断地变化、进 步,每天都有新的机会!

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Easter Egg the way to a Holiday by Ann Mei

September Issue 2012  

"Inspire your world"