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VAŠ BREZPLAČNI IZVOD/YOUR PERSONAL COPY

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine junij, julij • June, July 2011

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Ljubezen v kamnu Love in Stone Mitja Okorn Makedonija • Macedonia

Goričko Rudarjenje nekoč • Mining in the Olden Days

Idrijska čipka • Idrija Lace Obrti in opravila na Škofjeloškem • Crafts and Tasks in Škofja Loka Postojnska jama • Postojna Cave

Surf • Surfing Egipt • Egypt


PRAZNUJTE Z NAMI! CELEBRATE WITH US!

Svoj 50. rojstni dan želimo praznovati z vami. Poletimo skupaj v najlepše evropske prestolnice! We wish to celebrate our 50th birthday with you. Let us fly together to beautiful European capitals.

www.adria.si


{ Pismo } Spoštovane potnice in potniki!

Dear Passengers,

Veseli naju, da vam lahko v imenu vseh zaposlenih v Adrii Airways zaželiva dobrodošlico in prijetno počutje na našem letalu. Naša pozornost je usmerjena k vam, dragi potniki. Želimo vam ponuditi kar najboljše storitve v smislu varnosti in kakovosti potovanja.

On behalf of everyone at Adria Airways, we are delighted to be able to wish you a very warm welcome and a pleasant flight aboard this aircraft. Our attention is focused on you, the passenger. We want to offer you the very best services in terms of safe and high-quality travel.

V

V prvih štirih mesecih letošnjega leta je z nami potovalo 307.000 potnikov. Primerjave z letom 2009 (leto 2010 zaradi zaprtja letališča Jožeta Pučnika Brnik in izbruha vulkanskega pepela na Islandiji ni primerljivo) kažejo, da smo imeli letos za 5 odstotkov več potnikov, ob tem pa 4 odstotke manj letov. To pomeni, da smo se znali na primeren način prilagoditi potrebam trga in smo faktor zasedenosti letal povišali za 6 odstotkov.

I

In the first four months of this year a total of 307,000 passengers flew with us. A comparison with 2009 – owing to the closure of Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport and the spread of volcanic ash from Iceland, 2010 is not comparable – shows that in 2011 we have carried 5 percent more passengers, while operating 4 percent fewer flights. This means that we have managed to make appropriate adjustments to the needs of the market, and increased our aircraft occupancy rate by 6 percent.

Vsem, ki se še niste odločili, kako na dopust, ponujava praktično rešitev. Z letali Adrie Airways boste varno, hitro in udobno prispeli do številnih evropskih letališč in mnogih turističnih destinacij v Sredozemlju. Izognili se boste kolonam na cestah, uživali v klimatiziranem prostoru in tako prihranili moči za poletne aktivnosti in odkrivanje lepot izbranega kraja. Za to poletje smo vam pripravili vrsto ugodnih ponudb za različna potovanja. Poleg že ustaljenih rednih linij na 28 destinacij dopolnjujemo našo ponudbo s čarterskimi poleti, ki jih pripravljamo v sodelovanju s številnimi turističnimi agencijami. Izbirate lahko med priljubljenimi počitniškimi kraji na grških otokih ter v Španiji, Italiji, Egiptu in Turčiji. Več informacij o tem lahko dobite na naši spletni strani www. adria.si.

foto: Branko Čeak in Domen Pal

Adrijino floto smo v aprilu povečali še za eno letalo, in sicer A-320. To 180-sedežno letalo smo vzeli v operativni najem in ga vpisali v slovenski register zrakoplovov pod nazivom S5AAS. V naših barvah bo letelo naslednjih 42 mesecev. S tem smo našo floto povečali na 13 letal, v kratkem pa pričakujemo še eno letalo istega tipa. Tako bomo polno pripravljeni pričakali višek sezone.

In April this year the Adria fleet gained one more aircraft. The A-320 aircraft, which we took under an operating lease and entered in the Slovenian aircraft register with the code S5-AAS, has 180 seats. It will fly in the Adria livery for the next 42 months. This marks the expansion of our fleet to 13 aircraft, and soon we anticipate the acquisition of one more aircraft of the same type. In this way we will be fully prepared for the high season.

For all those of you that have not yet decided how you’re going to spend your holidays, we can offer a practical solution. An Adria Airways flight can take you safely, quickly and comfortably to a large number of European airports and plenty of resort destinations along the Mediterranean. You can avoid long lines of traffic, relax in the air conditioned space and save your energy for summertime activities and discovering the beauty of your chosen spot. For this summer we have put together a range of attractive offers for a variety of trips. In addition to the established scheduled services to 28 destinations, we also offer charter flights designed in cooperation with a number of travel agents. You have a choice of favourite holiday spots on the Greek islands, in Spain, Italy, Egypt and Turkey. For more information on this, visit our website www.adria.si.

Hvala vam za zaupanje in prijazen pozdrav.

Thank you for the confidence you have shown in us today. With our best wishes,

Robert Vuga,

Klemen Boštjančič,

izvršni direktor

glavni izvršni direktor

Klemen Boštjančič,

Robert Vuga,

CEO

Executive Director

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Vsebina/Contents 34

Adrijin potnik/Adria Passenger

Mitja Okorn Mitja Okorn

Patricija Maličev • Bor Dobrin

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Makedonija/Macedonia

Poletje ob jezerih Summers by the Lakes Matic Brumen

Janez Pukšič

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Goričko

Zeleni otok presahlega morja A Green Island in a Dried-up Sea Miško Kranjec

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Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.

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Izdajatelj/Published: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom

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Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Urednica / Edited by: Meta Krese Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Oblikovanje in AD /Design and AD: LUKS Studio Prevod /Translated by: Amidas Lektorica/Language editing: Vera Samohod Fotoliti /Lithography: SET, d.o.o. Tisk /Printed by: Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o.

Brezplačen izvod /Your personal copy

Čas je, da pade meja tudi pod zemljo Time for the Underground Border to Come Down Tadej Golob • Rafael Marn

Ljubezen v kamnu/Love in Stone

Pripoved »podpečana« The Tale of Podpečan Igor Drnovšek

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Idrijska čipka/Idrija Lace

Mesto, ki neskončne bele nitke spreminja v čarobno lahkotne čipke A Town Where Infinite White Threads are Transformed Into Lace of a Magical Lightness Maja Cimerman • Matej Sitar

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Danes/Present Day

Obrti in opravila na Škofjeloškem Crafts and Tasks in Škofja Loka Jana Jocif

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The pub­l ish­er accepts no responsibility for unsolicit­ed material.

Rudarjenje nekoč/Mining in the Olden days

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Postojnska jama/Postojna Cave

Alternativni jamski turizem Alternative Cave Tourism Arne Hodalič

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Surf na valovih Jadrana/Surfing the Adriatic

To je prava stvar! This is the Real Thing! Simon Plestenjak

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Egipt/Egypt

V tišini med koralnimi norčijami Silence Amidst a Riot of Coral Borut Furlan


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Adria Airways Novosti/News Poletni vozni red

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27. marca je Adria Airways prešla na poletni vozni red, ki ostaja v veljavi do 29. oktobra 2011. Adria ima 226 tedenskih letov iz Ljubljane na 28 destinacij, večinoma v Evropi: štirikrat dnevno leti v Frankfurt, trikrat dnevno v Muenchen, Zuerich in na Dunaj, dvakrat dnevno v Bruselj, Prištino in Skopje, enajst letov na teden opravi v Tirano, deset na teden v Pariz in Istanbul, devet letov v Moskvo, osem v Beograd, sedem letov na teden v Amsterdam in šest tedenskih letov v Sarajevo. Adria Airways bo opravila pet letov tedensko v Koebenhavn, London in Varšavo, tri tedensko v Barcelono, dva leta tedensko v Atene, Kijev, Manchester in Stockholm ter en polet tedensko v Dublin, Ohrid in Split. Od februarja 2004 letita Adria Airways in Montenegro Airlines med Ljubljano in Podgorico pod skupno oznako; Adria Airways leti v Podgorico trikrat tedensko, Montenegro Airlines pa mesti povezuje dvakrat na teden. Adria Airways je začela letos štirikrat tedensko leteti na novi redni progi – iz Ljubljane v Toulon na Azurni obali. Na progi Dunaj–Frankfurt opravijo trinajst letov na teden. Adria Airways je decembra 2010 vzpostavila tri redne povezave med Prištino in Nemčijo (Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Muenchen), poleti pa bo z direktnimi leti enkrat tedensko povezovala Prištino s Parizom in Koebehavnom ter dvakrat tedensko z Brusljem. V sodelovanju s člani združenja Star Alliance omogoča Adria Airways kot njihova članica zelo dobre in cenovno ugodne povezave po vsem svetu. Združenje Star Alliance opravi dnevno 21.000 letov na 1160 letališč v 181 državah. V poletni sezoni 2011 povezuje Adria Airways s čarterskimi leti, ki jih opravlja v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami, Ljubljano s številnimi počitniškimi destinacijami, predvsem v Sredozemlju. Iz Ljubljane bodo tedensko leteli na naslednja letališča: v Grčijo na Kreto (Heraklion in Hania), Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Kefalonijo, Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Hios, Lezbos, Lefkas/Prevezo in v Kavalo; v Španijo na Menorco in Palmo de Mallorco, v Italijo v Catanio ter na Malto in v Turčijo v Antalyo in Dalaman. Sharm el Sheikh in Hurgada v Egiptu sta edini čarterski destinaciji, kamor leti slovenski letalski prevoznik celo leto. Adria Airways bo iz Gradca letela na Kefalonijo in v Kavalo, iz Celovca v Kavalo in iz Trsta na otoka Kos in Samos.

Summer timetable On 27 March Adria shifted to its summer timetable, which will be in operation until 29 October 2011. Adria Airways operates 226 flights a week from Ljubljana to 28 destinations, mostly in Europe: four times a day to Frankfurt, three times a day to Munich, Zurich and Vienna, and twice a day to Brussels, Pristina and Skopje, and operates 11 flights a week to Tirana, ten flights a week to Paris and Istanbul, nine a week to Moscow, eight to Belgrade, seven a week to Amsterdam and six flights a week to Sarajevo. Adria will operate five flights a week to Copenhagen, London and Warsaw, three a week to Barcelona, two a week to Athens, Kiev, Manchester and Stockholm and one flight a week to Dublin, Ohrid and Split. Since February 2004 Adria Airways and Montenegro Airlines have operated code-share flights between Ljubljana and Podgorica; Adria Airways flies to Podgorica three times a week, and Montenegro Airlines links the two cities twice a week. This year Adria has also started operating a new service four times a week – from Ljubljana to Toulon on the French Côte d'Azur. The Vienna-Frankfurt service operates 13 flights a week. In December 2010 Adria Airways set up three scheduled services linking Pristina and Germany (Dusseldorf, Frankfurt and Munich), and in the summer it will operate direct services once a week from Pristina to Paris and Copenhagen, and twice a week to Brussels. In cooperation with the other members of Star Alliance, Adria Airways can offer excellent and attractively priced connections throughout the world. As a group, Star Alliance operates 21,000 flights each day to 1,160 airports in 181 countries. In the 2011 summer season, the charter flights which Adria operates in cooperation with travel agencies will link Ljubljana with numerous holiday destinations, mainly in the Mediterranean. Weekly flights will be operated from Ljubljana to the following airports: the Greek resorts of Crete (Heraklion and Chania), Rhodes, Kos, Santorini, Carpathos, Cephalonia, Zakynthos, Skiathos, Samos, Chios, Lesbos, Lefkas/Preveza and Kavala. In Spain we fly to Menorca and Palma de Mallorca, in Italy to Catania and we also fly to Malta and the Turkish resorts of Antalya and Dalaman. The flights to Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada in Egypt are the only charter destinations served year-round by the Slovenian airline. Adria Airways will fly from Graz to Cephalonia and Kavala, from Klagenfurt to Kavala and from Trieste to the islands of Kos and Samos.

Adria v poletnem voznem redu znova v Split Slovenski letalski prevoznik bo z 28. majem ponovno vzpostavil redno letalsko povezavo s Splitom (Hrvaška). Med Ljubljano in Splitom bodo ob sobotah letela letala Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-900 s 86 sedeži. Adria Airways je imela redne mednarodne polete v Split že med leti 1992 in 2004. S ponovno uvedbo linije želimo ustreči potnikom iz Slovenije, ki želijo obiskati Dalmacijo z letalom (glede na ure prihodov v Split in odhodov nazaj obstaja možnost enodnevnega izleta), prav tako pa tudi potnikom iz Hrvaške, ki se bodo odločali za počitnice v Sloveniji.

Adria flying to Split again in the summer timetable Starting on 28 May, the Slovenian airline will once again operate scheduled air services to Split in Croatia. Flights will be operated between Ljubljana and Split on Saturdays on a Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-900 aircraft with 86 seats. Adria Airways previously operated scheduled international services to Split from 1992 to 2004. The reintroduction of this service is intended to offer passengers from Slovenia wanting to get to Dalmatia by air the chance of day trips, given the arrival and departure times in Split, and to visitors from Croatia the opportunity to holiday in Slovenia.


Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers V vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vas pripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issue of the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year.

Ujemi ugoden polet!

Adria Airways Special Offers!

Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam,  imamo na voljo znižane ponudbe tudi za potovanje med tednom.

Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares are available for travel during the week.

Delujem ekonomično, potujem poslovno!

Work economically, travel in business!

Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanja vam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet v poslovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredu po najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dni pred odhodom; spremembe rezervacij so brezplačne.

When you buy a ticket at least seven days in advance, you can travel in business class for the price of an economy-class fare. This offer applies to economy-class tickets purchased at the highest rate. The only restriction is that you must purchase your ticket at least seven days before you travel. Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.

Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti!

Savings, no change in quality!

Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.

For more information visit www.adria.si or call us on 080 13 00.

Adrijine E-novice

Adria E-news

Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.

Why not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Let information be to your advantage!

Pridružite se nam na Facebooku Join us on Facebook

Sledite nam na Twitterju Follow us on Twitter

www.facebook.com/AdriaAirways

http://twitter.com/adria_airways

© Corbis/IPAK Images

BARCELONA– LJUBLJANA OD FROM

EUR 195

LJUBLJANA– ATENE OD FROM

EUR 218

LJUBLJANA– SPLIT OD FROM

EUR 94

FRANKFURT– VIENNA OD FROM

EUR 239

Zgoraj navedene cene so najnižje veljavne cene na Adrijinih poletih, vključujejo pa povratni prevoz in vse ostale dajatve, razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno. The prices given above are the lowest valid prices for Adria flights, and include return flight and all other taxes and fees, except for booking fees. There are limited seats available at this price.

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{ Adria Airways }

Marja Kunst – ( 10 )

letalska tehnica pri Adria Airways Tehnika Besedilo in fotografije: Domen Pal

S

prejela me je v letalskem hangarju v zamaščenih delovnih hlačah, kjer je skupaj z ostalimi letalskimi

tehniki oziroma mehaniki, kakor jim še vedno pogovorno radi pravimo, ravno odpirala ’drobovje’ ogromnega airbusa. »Saj ne bo trajalo dolgo, kajne? Imam še veliko dela, danes je moj zadnji dan tu, za dva meseca grem na izobraževanje v Nemčijo.« Mlada, simpatična, redkobesedna, a odločna. Malce nenavadna. Zakaj? Marja je edina ženska med 125 letalskimi tehniki, kolikor jih je zaposlenih pri podjetju Adria Airways Tehnika, kjer servisirajo potniška letala. Kljub končanemu študiju na fakulteti se je odločila za delovno mesto ’navadnega tehnika’ in s tem zakorakala globoko na igrišče, ki je tradicionalno v domeni moških. V mehanično delavnico, svetišče testosterona, rezervirano za robate šale o blondinkah, debatah o športu in avtomobilih. Letal se ne boji, moških sodelavcev še manj. Precej verjetno je, da je letalo, na katerem trenutno sedite in berete te vrstice, servisirala prav ona. O svoji prihodnosti ne želi govoriti, a sogovorniku pusti vtis, da dobro ve, kam je namenjena. Njeni cilji so visoko.

Kaj točno delate v hangarju?

Delam to kot vsi fantje: servisiramo letala, to pa vključuje razne preglede, menjave in popravila delov in raznih komponent potniških letal. Skratka vse, kar se na servisu letal izvaja. Usposobljena sem za delo z letali znamke Airbus in Canadair Regional Jet pa še kaj bi se našlo. So vas tehnične podrobnosti zanimale že v otroštvu?

Da, lahko bi tako rekla. Za letalstvo me je navdušil moj na žalost že pokojni dedek, ki je bil med drugo svetovno vojno po kapitulaciji Italije v Alžiriji dodeljen k angleški enoti RAF. Tam je kot mehanik pomagal popravljati vojaška letala. V otroštvu mi je pogosto pripovedoval zgodbe iz tistih časov, te pa so name naredile takšen vtis, da sem že na začetku osnovne šole vedela, da bodo moj poklic zaznamovala letala. Po zaključku srednje šole sem študij nadaljevala na Fakulteti za strojništvo v Ljubljani, smer letalstvo – snovanje in vzdrževanje letal. Proti zaključku študija sem po spletu naključij eno leto delala preko študentskega servisa kot mehaničarka na letalih generalne aviacije – laično povedano, na majhnih letalih. Nato me je pot zanesla k Adrii, prijavila sem se na razpis za delovno mesto letalskega tehnika in tu sem že skoraj tri leta. Po končanem študiju bi zaposlitev glede na izobrazbo dobili tudi kje drugje. Kako to, da ste se odločili za delo letalskega tehnika?

Lahko bi rekla, da sem želela svoje teoretično znanje, pridobljeno v času študija na fakulteti, okrepiti s prakso in posledično sem začela pri osnovah. Po moje je pomembno, da vsak inženir izkusi tudi praktično plat dela.


Kako so vas sprejeli kolegi, ko ste prvič stopili v hangar?

Nekateri zelo dobro in mi pri delu veliko pomagajo, so pa tudi takšni, ki žensk v tem delovnem okolju preprosto ne sprejemajo, in posledično je tudi delo z njimi veliko težje. Situacija je zanimiva, ste ženska v poklicu, ki je v domeni moških, obenem pa imate precej višjo izobrazbo kot kolegi v hangarju. Kaj je za nekatere bolj moteče, prvo ali drugo? Za tiste, ki so me dobro sprejeli, ni moteče ne eno in ne drugo, za ostale pa verjetno oboje, vendar se s takimi ljudmi preprosto ne ubadam, ampak grem svojo pot naprej. Z ljudmi, ki menijo, da je to okolje ’rezervirano’ za moške, sem se se srečevala že med študijem. Kot je rekla Nobelova nagrajenka iz medicine, Rita Levi Montalcini, je skrivnost uspeha v tem, da nadaljuješ svoje delo kljub včasih neprijaznemu okolju. Preprosto, greš naprej.   Ima zaradi izobrazbe vaše mnenje kdaj večjo težo od ostalih? So situacije, ko mi moje znanje omogoča boljše razumevanje problema, vendar je pri vzdrževanju letal zelo pomembno timsko delo in tudi rešitev je ponavadi rezultat različnih mnenj, predvsem pa izkušenj. Greste s kolegi kdaj na pivo?

Ne, ker »služba je služba, družba pa družba« … Kolikor je mogoče, strogo ločujem zasebnost od službe. Kaj vam pri delu predstavlja izziv? Hm, znanje. Že v času študija me je gnala naprej velika želja po pridobivanju znanja in ta je še vedno prisotna pri delu. Dandanes gremo namreč po avtocesti tehnološkega napredka in vedno se najde kaj novega in zanimivega, kar pritegne mojo pozornost in predstavlja neke vrste izziv. Ste kdaj razmišljali o akademski karieri?

Bomo videli, kaj bo prinesla prihodnost, zaenkrat vztrajam pri praksi. Poznate morda v tujini kakšno kolegico na podobnem delovnem mestu?

Žal ne, bi bilo pa vsekakor zanimivo izmenjati kakšno mnenje o tem poklicu z žensko predstavnico.

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{ Adria Airways }

Marja Kunst

Aircraft technician for Adria Airways Tehnika Text and photography: Domen Pal

S ( 12 )

he greeted me in the aircraft hangar, in well-greased overalls, where together with the other aircraft technicians, or mechanics as we still like to talk of them, she was just opening up the entrails of an enormous Airbus. “It won’t take long, will it? I still have a lot of work to do; today is my last day here, since I’m going to Germany for two months on a training course.” A young, sweet but determined woman of few words. Slightly unusual. Why? Marja is the only woman among the 125 aircraft technicians employed at the company Adria Airways Tehnika, which services passenger aircraft. Although she graduated from university, she opted for a job as an ordinary “technician” and in doing so took major strides into a playground that is traditionally a male domain. The mechanic’s workshop, a shrine to testosterone, reserved for crude jokes about blondes and debates on sport and cars. But she is not scared of planes, and even less so of her male colleagues. It is quite likely that the aircraft in which you are currently sitting and reading these lines has been serviced by her. She does not want to talk about her future, but in conversation she gives the impression that she knows where she is headed. She is aiming high.

What exactly do you do in the hangar?

I do what all the guys do, we service aircraft, and this includes a variety of inspections, replacements and repairs of parts and various components on passenger planes. In other words everything involved in servicing aircraft. I’m qualified to work on Airbus and Canadair Regional Jet aircraft, plus some others. Were you interested in technical details even as a child?

Yes, you could say that. I gained my enthusiasm for aviation from my now sadly departed grandfather, who was assigned to a unit of Britain’s RAF in Algeria during the Second World War, after the Italian capitulation. He worked there as a mechanic, helping to repair air force planes. In my childhood he often told me stories from that time, and they made such an impression on me that even when I was starting primary school, I knew that my career would involve aircraft. After secondary school I went on to study at the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering in Ljubljana, and I took the course Aviation – Aircraft Construction and Maintenance. Towards the end of my course, through a series of coincidences I worked for a year via the student employment service as a mechanic on general aviation aircraft, which in laymen’s terms means light aircraft. Then my path took me to Adria, where I applied for an advertised job as an aircraft technician, and I’ve been here nearly three years now.

After graduating, given your education you could have found employment elsewhere. How did you decide to do the job of an aircraft technician?

I could say that I wanted to enhance the theoretical knowledge I gained on my university course, so consequently I started with the basics. In my opinion it’s important for every engineer to experience the practical side of work. How were you received by your workmates when you first entered the hangar?

Some received me very well and help me a lot at work, but there are also some people who simply cannot accept women in this working environment, so working with them is a lot harder. This is an interesting situation, you are a woman in an occupation that is the domain of men, while at the same time you have a much higher education than the others in the hangar. What bothers some of them more, the former or latter? For the ones that received me well, neither thing bothers them, but for the others, probably both, although I simply don’t get bogged down with people like that, and I focus on my own path. I came across people who think that this environment is a male preserve even when I was a student. As the Nobel Prize winner for medicine, Rita Levi Montalcini, said, the secret of success lies in continuing your work despite an occasionally unpleasant environment. You simply move forward.   Does your education mean that your opinions ever carry more weight than others? There are situations where my knowledge allows a better understanding of a problem, but in aircraft maintenance team work is very important, and solutions are generally the result of various opinions, and above all of experience. Do you ever go for a beer with your workmates?

No, work is work, and my social life is my own… as far as I can, I keep my private life strictly separated from my work. What do you find challenging at work? Hmm, knowledge. Even as a student I was driven by an enormous desire to acquire knowledge, and that’s still present in my work. Nowadays we’re on a superhighway of technological advancement, and something new and interesting always turns up to get my attention and represent some kind of challenge. Have you ever thought about an academic career?

We’ll see what the future brings, but for the moment I’m sticking to practical work. Do you happen to know any female colleague abroad in a similar job?

Sadly no, but it would of course be interesting to exchange views on this profession with a female employed in it.

A


Foto: S. Kovačič

Otvoritev razstave

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»Adria 50, dovoljenje imate za vzlet«

V

torek, 19. aprila 2011, je bila v Muzeju novejše zgodovine svečano odprta razstava, ki je nastala v sodelovanju muzeja in Adrie Airways. Na otvoritveni slovesnosti so goste pozdravili: direktorica muzeja dr. Kaja Širok, glavni

Prireditve so se poleg številnih gostov s področja gospodarstva, kulture in predstavnikov letalskih institucij udeležili tudi Adrijci, ki so s svojimi predmeti ali znanjem sodelovali pri pripravi razstave. Še prav posebej so vse prisotne razveselile s svojo navzočnostjo štiri od prvih stevardes Adrie, ki se smehljajo z nosilne fotografije razstave iz daljnega leta 1963 avtorja Edija Šelhausa. Po ogledu razstave so gostje zaključili večer ob pogostitvi. K prijetnemu vzdušju so pripomogle dobrote, ki so jih pripravile spretne roke mojstrov Cateringa Kaval, zahvala pa gre tudi sponzorjema – Fructalu iz Ajdovščine in podjetju Radgonske gorice iz Gornje Radgone. Razstavo si je možno ogledati še do konca septembra 2011. S svojo postavitvijo je zanimiva za obiskovalce vseh starosti. Otroci se skupaj s pedagoškima likoma Otom in Edo podajo na polet ter se v posebni sobi poigrajo in rešujejo uganke. Tisti malo starejši pa se lahko ob določenih dnevih pod vodstvom članov Kluba virtualnega letenja preizkusijo na simulatorju letenja kot pravi piloti.

Foto: S. Kovačič

izvršni direktor Adrie Klemen Boštjančič in minister za promet dr. Patrick Vlačič, ki je razstavo tudi odprl.

Od leve proti desni: glavni izvršni direktor Adrie Airways Klemen Boštjančič, direktorica muzeja dr. Kaja Širok, minister za promet dr. Patrick Vlačič in izvršni direktor Adrie Robert Vuga. / Left to right: Adria CEO Klemen Boštjančič, Director of the National Museum of Contemporary History Dr Kaja Širok, Minister of Transport Dr Patrick Vlačič, and Adria Executive Director Robert Vuga.

Muzej je odprt vsak dan od torka do nedelje med 10. in 18. uro, razen ob državnih praznikih – dela prostih dnevih. Več informacij najdete na spletni strani www.muzej-nz.si.


Foto: S. Kovačič

{ Adria Airways }

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Izvršni direktor Adrie Robert Vuga in minister za promet dr. Patrick Vlačič / Adria Executive Director Robert Vuga and Minister of Transport Dr Patrick Vlačič

Foto: S. Kovačič

Foto: S. Kovačič

Tri izmed prvih stevardes Adrie z naslovne fotografije v družbi mlajših sodelavcev. Od leve proti desni: kopilot Andrej Ropret, Maja Pečar, Gordana Tomljenović Zajc, Adrijana Šelj, korporativno komuniciranje Adria Airways, Monika Kokalj Kočevar, vodja projekta v muzeju in Metka Kalin. / Three of Adria’s first flight attendants from the cover photograph accompanied by younger colleagues. Left to right: co-pilot Andrej Ropret, Maja Pečar, Gordana Tomljenović Zajc, Adrijana Šelj- Adria Airways Corporate Communications, Project Manager at the Museum Monika Kokalj Kočevar and Metka Kalin.


Foto: S. Kovačič

Opening of

“Adria 50, you are cleared for take off” Foto: S. Kovačič

Glavni izvršni direktor Adrie Klemen Boštjančič predaja nagrado g. Daliborju Jovanoviću, lastniku najstarejše najdene letalske vozovnice Adrie. / Adria CEO Klemen Boštjančič bestowing an award on Dalibor Jovanović, owner of the oldest Adria ticket found.

exhibition

A

n exhibition commemorating 50 years of Adria Airways has opened at the Museum of Contemporary History. The grand opening of the exhibition, created in partnership between the museum and Adria Airways, took place on 19 April. Guests at the opening ceremony were greeted by the director of the museum, Dr Kaja Širok, Adria’s CEO, Klemen Boštjančič, and the Minister of Transport, Dr Patrick Vlačič, who opened the exhibition. Along with numerous guests from the world of business and culture and representatives of aviation institutions, the exhibition was also attended by Adria personnel, who offered items and their knowledge to help prepare the exhibition. Attendees were especially pleased by the presence of four of Adria’s first flight attendants smiling from the exhibition’s central photograph by Edi Šelhaus, dating from 1963. The event was completed by a delicious treat, thanks to the sponsors oDelicious treats prepared by the skilled hands of Catering Kaval’s masters of cuisine contributed to a pleasant atmosphere; thanks also go to the sponsors – the Fructal company of Ajdovščina and the Radgonske gorice company of Gornja Radgona. The exhibition can be seen till the end of September 2011 and has been designed to offer something to visitors of all ages. Kids can go flying with two helpful characters, Oto and Eda, and enjoy playing and solving riddles in a special room, while their elders can put their skills to the test on a flight simulator as real pilots under the guidance of the members of the Virtual Flying Club on a number of specific days.

The museum is open each day Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 am to 6 pm, except public holidays. For more information visit www.muzej-nz.si

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Galerija TR3, do 30. julija

Mimmo Paladino

V galeriji TR3 so razstavljena dela iz umetnikovega dvajsetletnega obdobja ustvarjanja med letoma 1983 in 2003, ki razkrivajo njegovo široko paleto podob in ustvarjalnosti. Osrednje delo razstave, slika z naslovom Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca) iz leta 1983, upodablja rimskega cesarja Konstantina v postelji v noči pred slavno bitko pri Milvijskem mostu (Ponte Milvio). V vseh razstavljenih delih je Paladinov glas jasno prisoten, predvsem njegovo spoštovanje do etruščanske in zgodnje rimske kulture. Njegova ljubezen do kapric, metafor in bogatih barv kot tudi njegova naklonjenost do popolnega prednjega narisa, ki ga je iz preteklosti prenesel v sodobnost, ohranjata globoke zgodovinske povezave. Paladino je namreč odraščal v južni Italiji, njegova povezanost s preteklostjo je močna in ustvarja občutek hrepenenja in želje po vidikih človeškega življenja, ki se je že zdavnaj končalo, vendar v določenih subtilnih trenutkih še vedno vztraja. In prav zaradi tega občutka brezčasnosti so Paladinova dela tako močna in aktualna. Ljubljana, TR3 Gallery, until 30 July

Mimmo Paladino

The TR3 Gallery is hosting an exhibition of the artist Mimmo Paladino's works created over 20 years (1983 to 2003) and revealing a broad range of images and creativity. The central work of the exhibition, the painting Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca) from 1983, depicts the Roman emperor Constantine in bed on the eve of the famous battle at the Milvio Bridge (Ponte Milvio).

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There is a clear presence of Paladino’s voice in all of the displayed paintings, especially his respect for Etruscan and early Roman culture. His love for caprices, metaphors and rich colours, as well as his fondness for a perfect front upright projection transferred from the past to the present maintain deep historical links. Paladino’s growing up in southern Italy made his link with the past strong, creating a sense of longing and desire for those aspects of human life that ended long ago, yet still persist in certain subtle moments. And it is that very sense of timelessness that makes Paladino’s work so powerful and topical.

Jaka Jeraše, Piran

Piran, palača Trevisini, od 11. junija do 9. oktobra

Sijajni pop

V začetku junija odpira Piran v palači Trevisini nov prestižni razstavni prostor. Agencija Maona v sodelovanju z Adriatic Slovenico in Občino Piran začenja poletje z veliko razstavo POP ARTA. Vsako stoletje ima svojega posebneža. Dvajseto stoletje je navrglo tudi Andyja Warhola. Kot stvarnik POPularnosti je sleherniku dodelil svojih petnajst minut slave. In prodal platno svojih »Osem Elvisov« za vrtoglavih 100 milijonov dolarjev. Umetnine Andya Warhola, Toma Wesselmanna, Roya Lichtensteina, grafike Johna Chamberlaina in kolaži Roberta Rauschenberga bodo zasijali na razstavi Sijajni pop. Vroče piransko poletje bodo po zgledu Warholove tovarne – Factory – v sklopu razstave dodatno popestrile tudi številne delavnice. Organizatorji pripravljajo likovne delavnice na temo pop arta, šolo grafitov, ustvarjalne delavnice za otroke. V sklopu razstave bodo predvajali filme, posnete v newyorški tovarni, in povezali glasbenike, ki bodo izvajali glasbo tistega časa – Velvet Underground Tribute Band, glasbo Lou Reeda, Niko … Piran, Trevisini Palace, from 11 June to 9 October

Shiny Pop

In early June, Piran will open a new prestigious exhibition venue at

the Trevisini Palace. In collaboration with Adriatic Slovenica and the Municipality of Piran, the Maona agency will spice up the summer with a major pop art exhibition. Every century has its special characters, and the 20th century gave rise to Andy Warhol. As the creator of POPularity, Warhol provided each person with his/her 15 minutes of glory and his "Eight Elvises" canvas was later sold for a staggering 100 million dollars. Works by Andy Warhol, Tom Wesselmann, Roy Lichtenstein, John Chamberlain’s graphic works and Robert Rauschenberg’s collages will hold centre stage at the Shiny Pop exhibition. The hot summer in Piran will additionally be pepped up by numerous workshops following the example of Warhol’s Factory. The organisers are preparing fine-arts workshops on pop art, a graffiti school and creative workshops for children. The exhibition will include playing movies filmed at a New York factory and musicians performing music of the era – tributes to the Velvet Underground, Lou Reed, Nico… Mimmo Paladino, Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca), 1983


{ Art & Culture } Ljubljana, Galerija Alkatraz, Metelkova mesto, od. 17. junija do 1. julija

Deej Fabyc: Očka je bil vohun Sovjetske zveze

Britansko-avstralska umetnica Deej Fabyc je v Ljubljani razstavljala že leta 2009 v okviru Mednarodnega feminističnega in queer festivala Rdeče zore. Proces in raziskovanje sta pomembna elementa umetničinih angažiranih performans/video predstavitev. To velja tudi za razstavo v Galeriji Alkatraz. Izhodiščna točka celotnega procesa je, da je kot otrok nekaj mesecev živela v Ljubljani. V letu 1970 je bil njen oče, Paul Duncan Jones, kot statistični svetovalec zaposlen v Ljubljani. Službena pot ga je v poznih 60-ih in zgodnjih 70-ih letih vodila po številnih vzhodnoevropskih deželah, a Ljubljana je bila edina izmed vseh mest, kamor je s seboj pripeljal še družino. Teh nekaj mesecev so živeli v Hotelu Bellevue v Tivoliju. Zaradi narave očetovega dela, njegovih neprestanih potovanj in stalne odsotnosti je Deej Fabyc domnevala, da je vohun. Njen načrt je razkriti skrite sledove javnih in osebnih zgodovin, skozi katere naseljujemo in vidimo mesto. Otroškim spominom in potencialno izmišljenim podrobnostim je v svojem potovanju in raziskovanju Ljubljane sledila kot kartograf in tako na mesto plastila alternativno zgodovino. Njen projekt se tako kot delo njenega očeta ukvarja z vprašanjem migracij, obenem pa zastavlja vprašanje, kje je meja med domišljijo in resnico, če je resnica le konstrukt in ne produkt dejstev. Ali je glede na to, da za njenim bivanjem v Ljubljani ni nobenih sledi, sploh možno trditi, da je kratek čas svojega otroštva preživela v Sloveniji? Ljubljana, Alkatraz Gallery, Metelkova City, from 17 June to 1 July

Deej Fabyc: Daddy was a Spy for the Soviet Union

The British-Australian artist Deej Fabyc has already exhibited in Ljubljana in 2009 within the Red Dawns International Feminist and Queer Festival. The process and exploration are important elements of the artist’s socially engaged performances/video presentations. This also applies to this exhibition at the Alkatraz Gallery. The starting point of the process was the artist living in Ljubljana for a few months in her youth. Her father, Paul Duncan Jones, worked as a statistics consultant in Ljubljana in 1970. His business trips in the late 60s and early 70s took him to numerous Eastern European countries and Ljubljana was the only city to which he brought his family. They spent those few months at the Bellevue Hotel in Tivoli Park. Due to the nature of her father’s work, his endless trips and constant absence, Deej Fabyc was con-

Ljubljana, Galerija Alkatraz, Metelkova mesto, od 6. do 13. julija

Neven Korda: Vrnitev,

zbirka interaktivnih instalacij in video objektov Neven Korda je umetnik, ki deluje na področju performativnih in projiciranih umetnosti. Raziskuje, prakticira in beleži čisto umetnost. Njegova video praksa je zato raziskovanje videa in ne žanrov ali vsebin, ki jih video posreduje. Njegov vizualist je Barbat Kanak. Korda ustvarja umetne situacije, ki potrebujejo živo interakcijo telesa, glasu, zvoka in videa, ter računalniško posredovanje. Je režiser in avtor gledaliških predstav, avtorskih filmov, dokumentarcev in video spotov, obenem pa mentor in izvajalec delavnic uporabnega videa. Dejaven je na področju arhiviranja in ohranjanja video zapisov.

vinced that he was a spy. Her plan is to reveal the hidden traces of the public and personal histories through which we inhabit and perceive cities. In exploring Ljubljana, she followed her childhood memories and potentially fictitious details on her way through the city as a cartographer, superimposing layers of alternative history on the city. Her project, like her father’s work, deals with issues related to migration, investigating at the same time the line between

Ljubljana, Alkatraz Gallery, Metelkova City, from 6 to 13 July

Neven Korda: The Return, a Collection of Interactive Installations and Video Objects

Neven Korda is an artist engaged in performance and projection art. He

imagination and truth, as well as whether the truth is merely a construct and not a product

explores, practises and records pure art. His video practice is therefore

of facts. Bearing in mind the fact that her stay in Ljubljana left no traces, could it really be

related to exploration of video and not genres or content provided by

claimed that she spent a short period of her childhood in Slovenia?

video. His visualist is Barbat Kanak. Korda creates artificial situations

http://www.galerijalkatraz.org

that require live body, voice, sound and video interaction, as well as computer intervention. He has directed and created a number of theatre plays, author films, documentaries and music videos, and also tutors and conducts workshops on applied video. Korda is also active in the field of archiving and storing video recordings. http://www.galerijalkatraz.org

Foto: Sunčan P. Stone; postavitev: Deej Fabyc / Photo by Sunčan P. Stone, directed and framed by Deej Fabyc

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Kino Šiška, Klub Gromka, Stara Ljubljana, od 29. junija do 2. julija

52. jazz festival Ljubljana

52. jazz festival Ljubljana se v Evropi ponaša z najdaljšo neprekinjeno tradicijo, a tudi v svetovnem merilu je le bore malo starejših. Festival predstavlja sodobno glasbeno ponudbo iz vsega sveta in domovine, ki izhaja iz kreativne tradicije jazza, ter ključne osebnosti in tudi manj znana, a obetavna imena. Poseben poudarek namenja evropskemu jazzu ter inovativnim, modernim in izzivalnim pristopom glasbenic in glasbenikov, ki presegajo žanrske, kulturne in druge stereotipe. V letošnjem programskem izboru bodo nastopili: zasedba legendarnega saksofonista Charles Lloyd Quartet, pevska zvezdnica jazza Maria João, eden najzanimivejših jazzovskih basistov William Parker, izjemno priljubljeni in dinamični Hidden Orchestra, doma priznana in v tujini uveljavljena slovenska pevka Mia Žnidarič & Steve Klink International Band, eden najboljših, vsekakor pa najzanimivejših bobnarjev in tolkalcev Zlatko Kaučič in še vrsta radovednost vzbujajočih umetnikov. Festivalsko dogajanje bo s tremi nastopi obeležilo 10-letnico delovanja glasbene založbe Clean Feed. Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Kino Šiška, Klub Gromka, Old Ljubljana, from 29 June to 2 July

52nd Ljubljana Jazz Festival

This year's 52nd Ljubljana Jazz Festival boasts the longest unbroken tradition in Europe, and even on the world

scale there are few festivals that are older. The festival showcases modern music from all over the world, and also from Slovenia, based on the creative jazz tradition, plus key figures and also some less famous but up-andCharles Lloyd, foto: Nada Žgank, arhiv CD

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coming names. It places special emphasis on European jazz and on the innovative, modern and challenging approaches of the musicians, who transcend genre, culture and other stereotypes. This year’s selection offers appearances by the Charles Lloyd Quartet, the band of the legendary saxophonist, the vocal star Maria João, one of the most exciting jazz bass players, William Parker, the enormously popular and dynamic Hidden Orchestra, the locally famous and internationally acclaimed Slovenian singer Mia Žnidarič & Steve Klink International Band, one of the best, and of course the exciting drummers and percussionists Zlatko Kaučič, plus a range of other fascinating performers. Festival events will feature three performances to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the music publisher Clean Feed.

Ljubljana, Kongresni trg, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, od 3. junija do 7. septembra

Festival Ljubljana 2011

Več kot tisoč glasbenikov in desetkrat več gledalcev bo 3. julija ob 21. uri napolnilo prenovljeni Kongresni trg v Ljubljani, ki bo zaživel v monumentalni Simfoniji tisočev Gustava Mahlerja. Nepozabna otvoritev Festivala Ljubljana 2011, katere častni pokrovitelj je predsednik države dr. Danilo Türk, bo obeležila tudi 20. obletnico ustanovitve držav Slovenije in Hrvaške. Spektakularnemu uvodu v 59. festivalsko poletje bo sledilo še 36 vrhunskih prireditev, na katerih bo nastopilo več kot 3000 umetnikov iz 30 držav. Med vrhunci letošnjega bogatega programa, ki ga najdete na spletni strani www.ljubljanafestival.si, bodo vsekakor: predstava Tomaža Pandurja Somrak bogov, plesni poslastici Béjart Balleta iz Lozane in Borisa Eifmana, koncert slovite milanske Scale pod taktirko Daniela Hardinga in mjuzikl Hair s plesalci z West Enda in Broadwaya.

Ljubljana, Kongresni trg, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, from 3 June to 7 September

Ljubljana Festival 2011

On 3 July at 9 pm, more than 1,000 musicians and ten times as many spectators will fill the renovated Kongresni trg square in Ljubljana, which will come to life with Gustav Mahler’s monumental Symphony of a Thousand. The unforgettable opening of the Ljubljana Festival 2011, whose honorary sponsor is the President of the Republic of Slovenia, Dr Danilo Türk, will also celebrate the 20th anniversary of Slovenia’s and Croatia’s independence. A spectacular intro to the 59th festival

Béjart Ballet iz Lozane: Bolero, foto: Francois Paolini / Béjart Ballet from Lausanne: Bolero, Photo: Francois Paolini

summer will be followed by 36 top-level events featuring more than 3,000 artists from 30 countries. Among the highlights of this year’s rich programme, which can be found at www.ljubljanafestival.si, are Somrak bogov (Twilight of the Gods), a play by Tomaž Pandur, dance by the Béjart Ballet from Lausanne and Boris Eifman, a concert performed by the famous Scala Orchestra from Milan under the conduct of Daniel Harding, and the musical Hair with dancers from the West End and Broadway. http://www.ljubljanafestival.si

Orkester Filarmonica della Scala, foto: Silvia Lelli / Filarmonica della Scala Orchestra, Photo: Silvia Lelli


{ Art & Culture } 54. Beneški bienale, Slovenski paviljon, od 4. junija do 27. novembra

Mirko Bratuša: Grelci za vroče občutke

Kipar Mirko Bratuša se bo na Beneškem bienalu predstavil s kiparsko instalacijo, sestavljeno iz osmih prostostoječih antropomorfnih in vegetabilnih teles, ki bodo z napeljavami povezana v mrežo. Notranje, nevidno napajanje bo kipe iz žgane gline ogrevalo, vlažilo in ohlajevalo. S hlajenjem enih bo dovajana toplota za ogrevanje drugih. Vzpostavljena bo mreža povezav kot sistem umetniških teles, ki kažejo na medsebojno odvisnost. Metaforika takega skonstruiranega umetnostnega sistema je univerzalno uporabna za sodobno družbo, v kateri se vse dogaja v medsebojnih relacijah: bogatenje na enem koncu sveta pomeni revščino na drugem, zaskrbljeni smo zaradi ranljivosti ekosistema, ko izkoriščanje narave povzroča vse hujše naravne katastrofe, povezave iz družabnih omrežij sprožajo družbene nemire, ki spreminjajo politične sisteme. Grelci za vroče občutke so kompleksen kiparski sistem, ki bo združeval možnosti kiparskega medija kot dvodimenzionalnega in tridimenzionalnega, kot podobe na sebi in podobe nečesa drugega, kot optično, taktilno in termalno občutje. Spajal bo različne plasti aktualnih in preteklih prostorov ter njihovih pomenov. Del projekta, štirje kipi iz serije Hipokriti, je bil jeseni leta 2010 postavljen v cerkvi nekdanjega cistercijanskega samostana v Kostanjevici na Krki. Ta plast časovne dimenzije bo v projekt vključena kot dokumentarna resničnost. Na razstavi v Slovenskem paviljonu bo projiciran videofilm videoumetnice in filmske režiserke Jasne Hribernik, ki bo interpretiral prostorsko postavitev v cerkvi v luči problematike svetlobe in zgodovinskih pomenov prostora, ki jo bo prikazal kot sled realnosti v smislu »arheologije« umetniške forme. Komisarka in kustosinja je Nadja Zgonik, projekt pa vodi Bojan Božič, direktor Galerije Božidar Jakac, Kostanjevica na Krki. 54th Venice Biennial, Slovenian Pavilion, from 4 June to 27 November

Mirko Bratuša: Heaters for Hot Feelings

The sculptor Mirko Bratuša will present a sculpture installation at the Venice Biennial composed of eight freestanding anthropomorphic and vegetable pieces connected to a network. Hidden electrical fittings will heat, humidify and cool the fired-clay sculptures. The heat generated by the cooling of the first sculptures will be used to heat the others. A network of connections will be set up as a system of artificial bodies indicating their mutual dependence. The metaphorics of an artistic system constructed in this manner are universally applicable to modern society, in which everything happens in mutual relation: amassing wealth on one side of the planet leads to poverty on the other, we worry about the vulnerability of the ecosystem, in which the exploitation of nature causes increasingly severe natural disasters, and connections through social networks trigger social unrest, which changes political systems. Heaters for Hot Feelings forms a complex sculpture system combining the possibilities of the sculpture medium as a two- and three-dimensional medium, as an image in itself and an image of something else, as an optical, tactile and thermal feeling. It combines various layers of present and past spaces and their meanings. Part of the project, four sculptures from the Hypocrites series, was installed in the church of the former Cistercian monastery in Kostanjevica na Krki in the autumn of 2010. This layer of the time dimension will be included in the project as a documentary reality. During the exhibition at the Slovenian Pavilion, a video by video artist and film director Jasna Hribernik will be shown, which will, by analysing the light and the historical meanings of the space, interpret the spatial layout of the church and expose it as a trace of reality in the sense of the "archaeology" of artistic forms. The commissioner and curator is Nadja Zgonik, while the project is managed by Bojan Božič, Director of the Božidar Jakac Gallery in Kostanjevica na Krki.

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Galerija Photon, junij, julij

Razstava madžarskih foto klasikov

Galerija Photon bo v sodelovanju z madžarskim muzejem za fotografijo iz Kecskeméta v Sloveniji prvič predstavila dela mednarodno priznanih avtorjev, kot sta André Kertész, Brassaï idr., danes splošno priznanih ikoničnih figur fotografije. Na razstavi bodo visela dela nekaterih verjetno najpomembnejših vzhodnoevropskih avtorjev, ki so kljub svoji osnovni geografski dislociranosti v zgodovino fotografije prispevali izjemno vplivno in samosvojo izraznost, a so jo uspeli doseči šele s selitvijo v velika umetniška središča. Usoda večine izmed njih – Laszlo Moholy–Nagy, André Kertész, Brassaï, Robert Capa idr. – je bila torej tako ali drugače povezana z migracijo, začasno ali dosmrtno, ki jih je doletela iz ekonomskih ali političnih razlogov. Kljub uveljavljanju v zahodnem svetu so številni madžarski ustvarjalci obdržali delček formalnih značilnosti, ki so lastne prav temu prostoru. Razstava v Galeriji Photon se bo osredotočila na temeljna dela nekaterih izmed omenjenih, prav tako pa tudi nekaterih v svetovnem merilu malce manj prepoznavnih avtorjev, ki so s svojim delovanjem pomembno zaznamovali in tudi spremenili svet avtorske in dokumentarne fotografije, kot so Martin Munkácsi, Rudolf Balogh, Károly Escher in József Pécsi.

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Ljubljana, Photon Gallery, June, July

Exhibition of Classic Hungarian Photos

In collaboration with the Hungarian Museum of Photography from Kecskemét, the Photon Gallery will, for the first time in Slovenia, display the works of internationally renowned artists and iconic figures of photography such as André Kertész and Brassaï. The exhibition will include works of some of the arguably most important Eastern European photographers who have, despite their geographically remote location, marked the history of photography with exceptionally powerful and original expressiveness after moving to major art cities. The destinies of most of the artists – Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, André Kertész, Brassaï, Robert Capa and others – were related to the migration (whether temporary or life-long) to which they were exposed for economic or political reasons. Despite their success in the West, many Hungarian artists managed to retain part of the formal features characteristic for their country of origin. The exhibition at the Photon Gallery will focus on major works of some of their photographers mentioned and some other lesser-known artists who have greatly marked and changed the world of artistic and documentary photography, such as

Uroš Abram, porno 08

Novo mesto, različne lokacije, od 25. julija do 6. avgusta

FOTOPUB –

11. mednarodni festival in delavnice dokumentarne fotografije Fotopub je fotografski festival, ki pripelje v Novo mesto številna znana imena iz sveta dokumentarne fotografije in vsem ljubiteljem tovrstnega medija ponudi teden intenzivnih delavnic za različne stopnje fotografskega predznanja, poleg tega pa še delavnico multimedije in novinarske reportaže. Vsi festivalski dogodki so odprti za javnost: razstave, večerne projekcije, kjer mentorji in posebni gostje pripravijo fotografske zgodbe, četrtkova nagrada, ki je tekmovalni del festivala, ter Tribuna, javna diskusija na izbrano temo. Tema letošnjega Fotopuba je »Zasebno oko«, mentorji pa priznana ameriška fotografinja Brenda Ann Kenneally za mojstre, norveški fotograf Espen Rasmussen za tiste bolj napredne in slovenski fotograf Uroš Abram za začetnike.

Martin Munkácsi, Rudolf Balogh, Károly Escher and József Pécsi. www.photon.si

Novo mesto, various venues, from 25 July to 6 August

Fotopub – 11th International Festival and Workshops on Documentary Photography

Fotopub is a photography festival bringing to Novo mesto numerous renowned names from the world of documentary photography and offering a week of intense workshops for various levels of previous experience, along with a workshop on multimedia and journalistic coverage. All festival events are open to the public: exhibitions, evening projections with tutors and special guests preparing photo stories, the Thursday Award representing the competition phase of the festival, and the Forum, a public discussion on a chosen topic. This year’s theme is "The Private Eye”. Masters will be tutored by the leading American photographer Brenda Ann Kenneally, the tutor for more advanced photographers will be the Norwegian photographer Espen Rasmussen and beginners will be tutored by the Slovenian photographer Uroš Abram. Károly Escher, Sleet in Budapest, 1934

André Kertész, In front of a circus, 1920

www.fotopub.si


{ Art & Culture } Ljubljana, Slovenski etnografski muzej, do 28. aprila 2012

Orinoko, Indijanci amazonskega deževnega gozda

Razstava Indijanci amazonskega deževnega gozda pripoveduje o sonaravnem življenju dvanajstih etničnih skupin, ki že stoletja živijo ob reki Orinoko v južni Venezueli. Skupine De’áruwa (Piaroa), Ye’kuana, Yanomami, Híwi (Guahibo), E’ñepa (Panare) in Hodi živijo v porečju reke Orinoko v Amazoniji, Wakuenai (Curripaco), Baniwa (Baniva), Baré, Puinave, Warekena in Tsase (Piapoco) so z območij Gvajane in Rio Negra z amazonskega porečja v Braziliji in Kolumbiji. Postavljena v slikovni in zvočni ambient deževnega gozda, razdeljena v tri glavne sklope – narava, vsakdanje življenje, sistemi verovanj in obredov –, jih predstavlja v gozdu, na rekah in v njihovih skupnih bivališčih. Razstava zajema zelo širok razpon predmetov (okrog 700): od obrednih – mask, okraskov iz perja, šamanskih pripomočkov, posvečenih palic in orožja – do pestrega izbora nakita – zapestnic, ogrlic in uhanov. Prav tako predstavlja bogat izbor pip, piščali, ropotulj in drugih glasbil, predmetov iz vsakdanjega življenja – čolnov, vesel, loncev in tkanin – ter bogato paleto edinstvenih in umetelno pletenih košar. Vsi ti predmeti jasno odražajo nezapleten odnos med njihovimi uporabniki in naravo: vse, kar izvira iz deževnega gozda, se mora tja tudi vrniti. Razstava z zbirko Orinoko Fundacije Cisneros iz Venezuele prvič prinaša v tem obsegu slovenski publiki zgodbo o teh malo poznanih kulturah. Ljubljana, Slovene Ethnographic Museum, until 28 April 2012

Orinoco: Indians of the Amazon Rainforest

The exhibition Indians of the Amazon Rainforest tells of the sustainable lifestyle of 12 ethnic groups that have lived for centuries along the River Orinoco in southern Venezuela. The De’áruwa (Piaroa), Ye’kuana, Yanomami, Híwi (Guahibo), E’ñepa (Panare) and Hodi live in the Orinoco river basin in Amazonas. The Wakuenai (Curripaco), Baniwa (Baniva), Baré, Puinave, Warekena and Tsase (Piapoco) are from Guyana and the Rio Negra Amazon river basin in Brazil and Columbia. Placed in a rainforest ambience created through sounds and images, and divided into three sections – nature, everyday life, and systems of belief and rituals – they are shown in the forest, on the rivers and in their communal homes. The exhibition includes a very wide range of objects (around 700), from ritual items – masks, decorations made from feathers, shaman's tools, sacred sticks and weapons – to a rich selection of jewellery: bracelets, necklaces and earrings. There is also a wide array of pipes, flutes, rattles and other instruments; objects from everyday life – canoes, paddles, dishes and textiles; and a fine assortment of unique, hand-woven baskets. All these objects clearly express the complex relationship between their users and nature: everything that originates from the rainforest must return to it. By displaying the Orinoco Collection of the Cisneros Foundation of Venezuela, the exhibition for the first time brings a more in-depth story of these little-known cultures to the Slovenian audience. www.etno-muzej.si

Foto: Rafael Santana

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{ Umetnost & kultura / Art & Culture } Zürich, Kunsthaus Zürich Joseph Beuys: Difesa della Natura Do 14. avgusta Obramba narave Dolga desetletja je Beuys (1921–1986) vsako leto nekaj tednov preživel v Bolognanu v Abruziji, kjer je sodeloval v estetsko-ekološkem projektu z naslovom »Difesa della Natura«. Kot nekaj, kar je avtor štel za socialno skulpturo, naj bi »Difesa della Natura« presegla strogo umetniški vidik ter povzročila celovito reformo gospodarskih in ekoloških praks v kmečkih krajih južne Italije, zato je v Bolognanu z leti nastalo veliko kipov, risb, grafik in brošur, ki so spremljali širok razpon umetnikovih lokalnih dejavnosti. Kot sodobni gledalci imamo možnost, da si ogledamo zanimiv kontekst, znotraj katerega je nastal »Olivestone«, dandanes eno ključnih del v Kunsthausovi zbirki. Beuys je v Palazzo Durini odkril kadi iz apnenca, ki so se uporabljale za pretakanje oljčnega olja.

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Istanbul, Muzej sodobne umetnosti Lale Tara: Nedolžni nadomestki Do 4. septembra V svojem najnovejšem ciklu fotografij »Nedolžni nadomestki« nas turška fotografinja Lale Tara, znana po mizanscenah, ki jih ustvarja z nedolžnimi

Zürich, Kunsthaus Zürich Joseph Beuys: Difesa della Natura Until 14 August Defence of nature: For decades, Beuys (1921–1986) would spend a few weeks each year in Bolognano, Abruzzi, working on an aesthetico-ecological project known as "Difesa della Natura". As what he considered social sculpture, "Difesa della Natura" was intended to reach beyond the strictly artistic to effect a comprehensive reform of the economic and ecological practices of this farming town in southern Italy, and thus over the years Bolognano saw the production of numerous sculptures, drawings, prints and brochures to accompany Beuys’s wide range of local activities. For viewers today, these offer a fascinating glimpse at the context out of which "Olivestone" emerged, today among the key works in the Kunsthaus collection: Beuys discovered the limestone basins in the Palazzo Durini, where they were in use for decanting olive oil. Istanbul, Museum of Modern Art Lale Tara: Innocent Surrogates Until 4 September In her latest cycle of photographs "Innocent Surrogates", Turkish photographer Lale Tara, whom we know from the mise-

nadomestki, uvede v koncept transcendentalne teleportacije. Ta koncept, ki bi ga lahko opredelili kot potovanje skozi prostor-čas, nas vabi v svet, ki presega racionalni um. Umetnica, ki razlaga, da cikel »Nedolžni nadomestki« sestoji iz dvodimenzionalnih kopij stvarnosti, v katero verjamemo, je prepričana, da z vključevanjem teh nadomestkov v naše fantazije z zgodbami, ki nam jih predstavlja, dokazuje njihovo resničnost.

London, galerija Whitechapel Ian Berry: To je Whitechapel Do 4. septembra Podobno kot danes je vzhodni London v zgodnjih sedemdesetih letih doživljal hitre socialne in gospodarske spremembe. Ko se je uveljavljena judovska skupnost odselila in je na njeno mesto prišlo južnoazijsko prebivalstvo, je galerija Whitechapel najela vodilnega britanskega fotografa Iana Berryja, da bi dokumentiral to obdobje tranzicije. Kot član fotoreporterske organizacije Magnum je Berry zaslovel s svojimi uličnimi fotografijami. Posnel je zdaj že davno zgodovino ikonskih lokalnih znamenitosti, na primer košer restavracijo Bloom’s, pub Blind Beggar, tržnici na ulicah Brick Lane in Petticoat Lane ter ljudi, ki so ži-

en-scènes she creates with innocent surrogates, introduces us to the concept of transcendental teleportation. This concept, which can be defined as a journey in space-time, invites us into a world that transcends the rational mind. The artist, who explains that the cycle consists of two-dimensional copies of the reality we believe in, believes that the inclusion of these surrogates in our fantasies through the stories she conveys to us proves that they are real.

London, Whitechapel Gallery Ian Berry: This is Whitechapel Until 4 September Much like today, East London in the 1970s was undergoing rapid social and economic change. As the established Jewish community moved away and a south Asian population took their place, the Whitechapel Gallery commissioned leading British photographer Ian Berry to document this period of transition. A member of the photojournalist organisation Magnum, Berry had established a reputation for his street photography. He captured a now distant history of iconic local landmarks, such as Bloom’s kosher restaurant, the Blind Beggar pub, Brick Lane and Petticoat Lane markets and

veli v četrtih Whitechapel in Spitalfields, in iz tega gradiva pripravil veliko razstavo. Medtem ko se vzhodni London znova pripravlja na spremembe pred bližajočimi se olimpijskimi igrami leta 2012, je ta razstava priložnost, da si ogledamo, kakšen je bil videti ta del mesta pred štiridesetimi leti.

Amsterdam, muzej Cobra Jacques Doucet, le Cobra français Do 18. septembra 2011 Prvič je velika mednarodna razstava posvečena delu francoskega avantgardnega umetnika Jacquesa Douceta (1924–1994). Ta umetnik francoskega rodu, član umetniškega gibanja Cobra, je odigral pomembno vlogo v letih, ki so pripeljala do fenomena Cobra. V zameno mu je obdobje Cobre ponudilo enkratne izkušnje, ki so močno vplivale na njegovo poznejše delo. Doucet se je umetnikom Cobre pridružil zaradi tega, ker mu je duh gibanja zagotovil svobodo, da se je oddaljil od smeri, ki jih narekuje razum, in začel bolj poglobljeno raziskovati prvobitne vire ustvarjalnosti. Delo Jacquesa Douceta je neločljivo povezano z avantgardo 20. stoletja in svobodo, ki jo je ta avantgarda ustvarila ter umetnikom omogočila, da so spontano razvrščali oblike, barve in materiale,

the people who lived in Whitechapel and Spitalfields, to create a major exhibition. As East London prepares for change once more with the 2012 Olympics, this exhibition is an opportunity to see what the area was like 40 years ago.

Amsterdam, Cobra Museum Jacques Doucet, Le Cobra Français Until 18 September For the very first time, a major international exhibition is being devoted to the work of the French avant-garde artist, Jacques Doucet (1924–1994). This French-born Cobra artist played a striking role in the years leading up to the emergence of Cobra. In turn, the Cobra period offered him unique experiences that would have a major influence on his later work. Doucet joined the Cobra artists because the spirit of the movement gave him the freedom to depart from directions dictated by reason and to more deeply investigate the primal origins of creativity. Jacques Doucet's work is inextricably bound with the 20th-century avant-garde and the freedom it generated, allowing artists to spontaneously arrange forms, colours and materials, unimpeded by academic traditions.

ne da bi jih pri tem ovirale akademske tradicije. Razstava osvetljuje širok, večstranski opus tega francoskega umetnika. Vključuje več kot 80 del od začetka njegove umetniške kariere v zgodnjih štiridesetih letih do njegovih zadnjih stvaritev.

Pariz, Jeu de Paume Santu Mofokeng: Lov za sencami, 30 let fotoesejev Do 25. septembra Razstava in spremljajoča knjiga združujeta edinstven izbor fotoesejev, ki jih je Santu Mofokeng pripravil v preteklih tridesetih letih. Santu Mofokeng predstavlja izbor več kot 200 podob (fotografij in diapozitivov), besedil in dokumentov. Fotoeseje je pripravljal dolga leta, nekateri so celo vseživljenjski projekti, ki še vedno trajajo, obsegajo pa vse od Soweta njegove mladosti, njegovega raziskovanja življenja na kmetijah, vsakodnevnega življenja v črnskem mestu ter zlasti predstavitev njegovih in družinskih zgodb o črnih Južnoafričanih do podob avtorjevega raziskovanja verskih obredov in tipologij pokrajine, vključno z njegovim najnovejšim projektom Sijoča pokrajina, ki je bil naročen posebej za to retrospektivo.

The exhibition highlights the broad, multi-sided oeuvre of this French artist. It includes more than 80 works, from the beginning of his artistic career in the early 1940s through to his last works.

Paris, Jeu de Paume Santu Mofokeng: Chasing Shadows, 30 years of photographic essays Until 25 September The exhibition and accompanying book bring together a unique selection of the photographic essays made by Santu Mofokeng over the last 30 years. Santu Mofokeng presents a selection of more than 200 images (photographs and a slideshow), texts and documents. The photographic essays he has composed over the years, some of which are a lifelong work in progress, range from the Soweto of his youth, his investigations of life on the farms, the everyday life of the township and in particular, representations of the self and family histories of black South Africans, to images from the artist’s ongoing exploration of religious rituals and of typologies of landscapes, including his most recent project Radiant Landscapes, commissioned for this retrospective. 


{ Adrijin potnik }

Mitja Okorn

V resnem razmerju. S filmom. Besedilo: Patricija Maličev

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Fotografije: Bor Dobrin

M

itja Okorn je star trideset let. Za seboj ima zavidljivo filmsko kariero, poleg snemanja številnih domačih in tujih videospotov in

reklam se lahko pohvali z dvema igranima celovečercema, Tu pa tam ter s pravkar posnetim poljskim Letters to St. Nicholas (Pisma Sv. Nikolaju). Kranjčan. Svetovljanski. V intervjujih ga večkrat najavljajo s »hiperaktiven«. Toda pred menoj sedi fant, ne še moški, z zanj značilno čepico na glavi – in skejtom pod mizo –,

Kakšen je bil Mitja kot otrok?

pripravljen garati. Talent mu je pri tem v precejšnjo oporo.

Takšen, kot je zdaj. Neprenehoma sem nekaj ustvarjal, organiziral, režiral življenja drugih ter bil glasen in problematičen. Samo malenkost več las sem imel (smeh).

Živi med Poljsko in Slovenijo, toda v zadnjih dveh letih

Kot mulec ste skejtali in kasneje to veliko ljubezen iznajdljivo združili s

ki sam precej dobro ve, kaj hoče v življenju, in je za to

predvsem na Poljskem, kjer so ga angažirali za snemanje tam najbolj priljubljene tv nadaljevanke 39 in pol ter številnih tv reklam najprestižnejših naročnikov; ne gre pa pozabiti tudi na režijo njegovih večkrat nagrajenih videospotov poljske glasbene skupine Afromental. Še vedno sanja o svojem sedaj že tretjem celovečercu Član. Pravi, da mu bo nekoč uspelo. Punce zaenkrat nima. Je namreč v resnem razmerju s filmom.

še večjo – s filmom.

Med skakanjem čez stopnice, uničevanjem marmornatih robnikov ter številnimi izvini gležnjev in zlomi rok sem občutil nepopisen adrenalin, ki sem ga želel pokazati tudi vsem tistim, ki niso poznali privlačnosti tega športa. Vzel sem očetovo kamero in nastal je prvi slovenski skejterski film s pomenljivim naslovom Not sponsored, saj so kranjski skejterji vedno veljali za izobčence in nas ni nihče jemal resno ali podpiral. Jaz pa sem vztrajal in s filmom, njegovim nadaljevanjem ter akcijami, s katerimi sem pridobil vsem nadaljnjim generacijam tudi prvi skejtpark, povzročil novo ero slovenskega skejtanja. Prav to, skejtersko uporništvo mi je v življenju vedno pomagalo pri premagovanju ovir. Zato bom vedno ostal skejter po duši.


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Kaj vas je vodilo, da niste obupali, ko ste še kot najstnik kar štiri leta snemali svoj prvi film Tu pa tam s 70-člansko ekipo prijateljev in družine popolnoma brez sredstev, nato pa zanj prejeli nagrado za najbolj gledan

televizije TVN. Vprašala me je, ali bi prišel k njim snemat serijo 39 in pol. Naslednji dan sem sedel na letalu za Varšavo ... Serija je kmalu podrla vse rekorde gledanosti in priljubljenosti.

slovenski film leta 2005 – zlato rolo?

Notranji glas in intuicija vseskozi vesta, kaj in kdo si v resnici želiš postati. S filmom Tu pa tam sem tudi sam prišel do te resnice in dojel, da si želim biti samo režiser in nič drugega kot to. Moj hobi – snemanje – je postal moje življenje. Življenje, ki pa zagotovo ni enostavno, kot je denimo tisto v utečenem vsakdanu in predstavlja za večino ljudi najenostavnejšo opcijo. Vendar je to le na videz varno in udobno. Za tisto nekaj več pa je treba imeti pogum. Garati je treba z rokami in možgani. Ali kot je rekel Steve Jobs: Treba je ostati lačen in norčav. Seveda pa je najbolj pomembno, da nikoli ne obupaš. Kako so vas našli tuji producenti?

Vrsto let sem po svetu neumorno obiskoval filmske festivale in vsevprek delil svoje vizitke in predstavitvene dvd-je. Potem me je nekega dne ena od teh deset tisočih oseb le poklicala – producentka največje poljske

Pravkar ste zaključili svoj drugi celovečerec, Letters to st. Nicholas, ki ste ga posneli na Poljskem in s tem postali prvi slovenski režiser v zgodovini, ki je tam posnel tako velik film.

Za mano je štirideset intenzivnih snemalnih dni, da ne govorim o pripravah na film. Zdaj me čaka montaža, sicer pa gre za sladko-grenko zgodbo, ki se začne na božični dan in konča naslednje jutro ter v tem času preplete usode ljudi, ki jim ta praznik za vedno spremeni življenje. Ponosen sem, da sem imel priložnost že pri svojem prvem poljskem filmu sodelovati s toliko vrhunskimi poljskimi igralci in igralkami. Film sicer oglašujejo kot družinsko komedijo, seveda pa si nisem mogel kaj, da ga ne bi začinil z malo Okornovega »crazy« humorja. Tako da se bodo tudi gledalci, ki običajno ne marajo božičnih filmov, lahko poistovetili z marsičim. In to že v novembru, ko bo film premierno prikazan v vseh večjih poljskih kinematografih, dogovarjam se seveda tudi za prikaz v


{ Adria Passenger } Sloveniji. Ker pa je dober film umetnost in umetnost univerzalna, si želim, da bi moj film našel svojo publiko tudi drugod po svetu.

obdobju padca komunizma in razpada Jugoslavije. To je film, ki ga močno čutim, ki ga želim posneti, režirati. To je film, ki ga hočem živeti!

Slovenščina je vaš materni jezik. Obvladate poljščino – imate morda

Če vas povabijo v Hollywood – hipotetično, kakšne vrste filma bi se naj-

najljubšo besedo?

prej lotili?

Smešno. Ker v zadnjem letu skorajda nisem govoril slovensko, je poljščina nekako postala moj »materni« jezik. Ob vrnitvi v Slovenijo sem namreč ugotovil, da sem pozabil ogromno besed in da govorim s poljskim naglasom. Ena mojih ljubših poljskih besed pa bi bila lahko »zajebiste«. Besedica, ki morda deluje kot kletvica, pa ni, saj v prevodu pomeni »jebeno dobro«! Z njo vselej izražam navdušenje.

Sploh ni pomembno, kje, v Sloveniji, na Poljskem, v Hollywoodu – povsod bi se lotil istega filma. Filma z zgodbo, ki mi je všeč. Je pa res, da bi to želel snemati brez kakršnih koli omejitev in z možnostjo, da ta film vidijo po celem svetu. Kar se tega tiče, je Hollywood pač najboljša izbira. Zavedam pa se, da za izgubljene priložnosti tam nimajo nikjer oddelka za najdene predmete. Dobiš »One shot«, kot poje Eminem ... Življenju je treba pustiti, da ti ob namenjenem trenutku ponudi, kar ti ima ponuditi. In to zagrabiš. Trenutno sem več kot zadovoljen, da mi je ponudilo Poljsko in z njo priložnost, da se marsičesa naučim. Nekakšen študij, lahko rečem. Morda bom na Poljskem na ta način s projekti opravil »magisterij« in nato »vrgel kapo visoko v zrak« v Ameriki.

Kako pa gre vašemu projektu Član?

Film Član, to so moje sanje. Projekt, na katerega čakam že šest let in ki se bo zgodil ob najbolj pravem trenutku. Gre za film, resnično zgodbo črnogorskega priseljenca v Sloveniji, razpetega med kriminalom in glasbo, v

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Mitja Okorn In a Serious Relationship. With Film. Text: Patricija Maličev

Photography: Bor Dobrin

Mitja Okorn is thirty years old. He has already had an enviable film career. In addition to making several Slovenian and foreign videos and advertisements, he has made two feature films, Here and There and the just completed Polish film Letters to St. Nicholas. He is from Kranj. He is cosmopolitan. In interviews he is often described as “hyperactive”. But before me sits a boy, not yet a man, with his trademark cap on his head (and a skateboard under the table), who has a pretty good idea about what he wants from life and is ready to push himself hard to get it. His talent gives him a substantial foothold. He lives between Poland and Slovenia, but in the last two years mostly in Poland, where he has been hired to film their most popular show, 39 and a half, and several TV ads from top-level clients – and he also directed the videos for the Polish band Afromental, which have received several awards. He is still dreaming about his third feature film, The Member. He says that he’ll be able to make it someday. He doesn’t have a girlfriend right now. He’s in a serious relationship with film.

What was Mitja like as a child?

Like he is now. I was constantly making things, organising things, directing other people’s lives, and I was loud and problematic. I just had a little more hair. (laughs) As a kid you were a skater, and later you ingeniously combined that great love with an even greater one – film.

While I was jumping stairs, destroying marble kerbs and after several sprained ankles and broken arms, I experienced an indescribable adrenalin rush that I wanted to share with everyone who didn’t understand the appeal of the sport. I grabbed my dad’s camera and made the first Slovenian skater film with the pointed title Not Sponsored, since Kranj skaters were always treated like outcasts and nobody took us seriously or supported us. But I kept on going, and through the film and its sequels and campaigns, I managed to get the first Slovenian skateboard park built, which started a new era in Slovenian skateboarding and will be a legacy for all the coming generations. In fact, my skater rebelliousness has helped me overcome obstacles all my life. So I’ll always be a skater at heart. What was it that drove you not to give up when as a teenager it took you four years to make your first film, Here and There, with a 70-member team of friends and family and no funding whatsoever, and then you received the Golden Reel award for the most popular Slovenian film of 2005?

Your inner voice and intuition always know what and who you really want to become. With Here and There I came to that awareness and realised that I wanted to be a director and nothing but a director. My hobby, filmmaking, became my life. It’s definitely not a simple life, like one with an everyday routine, which is the simplest option for the majority of people. But that kind of life is only outwardly safe and comfortable. For that something extra you need courage. You have to work with your hands and your mind. Or as Steve Jobs said, “Stay hungry. Stay foolish.” Of course the most important thing is to never give up.


How did foreign producers find you?

For several years I went around the world attending film festivals and handing out my business cards and promotional DVDs. Then one day one of those ten thousand people just called me – a producer from Poland’s number one television station, TVN. She asked me if I would come direct their show 39 and a half. The next day I got on a plane to Warsaw. Shortly after that the show started breaking all of the viewer and popularity records. You have just completed your second feature film, Letters to St. Nicholas, which you shot in Poland, thus becoming the first Slovenian direc-

One of my favourite Polish words would be “zajebiste”. It sounds like it could be a coarse swear word, but it isn’t; it translates as “damn good”. I always use it to express enthusiasm. How is your project The Member going?

The Member is my dream. I have been waiting for it for six years, and it will happen when the moment is right. It is a true story about an immigrant who came to Slovenia from Montenegro, suspended between crime and music, during the period of the fall of communism and the breakup of Yugoslavia. It’s a film that I really feel that I want to make. It’s a film that I want to live!

tor to direct a major film there.

We spent forty days of incredibly intense filming, not to mention all of the preparations. We’re waiting for the editing now, but otherwise the film is a bittersweet story that begins on Christmas day and ends the following morning, and reveals the intertwined fates of people whose lives are changed forever by the holiday. I am proud to have had the opportunity to work with such first-rate Polish actors and actresses in my first Polish film. The film is being promoted as a family comedy, but of course I couldn’t help but season it with a little bit of Okorn’s “crazy” humour. So even people who usually don’t like Christmas films will find a lot to identify with. And this is already in November, when the film will be shown in all of the larger Polish cinemas; of course I’m negotiating to show it in Slovenia as well. Since a good film is a work of art and art is universal, I hope that my film will also find an audience elsewhere around the world. Slovene is your mother tongue. You speak excellent Polish – do you have a favourite word? It’s funny. Since I almost haven’t spoken Slovene in the last year, Polish has somehow become my mother tongue. When I came back to Slovenia I realised that I had forgotten a huge amount of words and that I speak with a Polish accent.

If you were invited to Hollywood, hypothetically, what kind of film would you start with?

It doesn’t matter where, Slovenia, Poland, Hollywood – I would make the same film anywhere. A film with a story that I like. Of course I would like to make it without any restrictions and with the possibility of it being shown all over the world. From this aspect Hollywood is the best choice. But I am aware that there is no lost and found there for missed opportunities. You get “one shot”, as Eminem says. You have to let life offer what it has to offer you at the right moment. And you grab hold of it. At the moment I am more than satisfied that it offered me Poland, and with it the opportunity to learn so much. A kind of education, you might say. Perhaps I’ll get my masters in Poland and then “throw my graduation cap high into the air” in America.

A

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Makedonija

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Poletje ob jezerih R

es je da, sta bili Makedonija in Slovenija nekoč del iste države, vendar vsaka na drugem koncu Jugoslavije, tako da

o Makedoniji razen tega, da sem poznal nekaj stereotipov o pridelavi riža in tobaka ter okusnih paradižnikih, nisem imel kakšne posebne predstave.

O

hridsko jezero, zaščiteno pod UNESCOM in nujna postaja na potovanju po Makedoniji, je s 50 kilometri makedonske obale primerljivo z dolžino slovenskega morja. Zaradi svoje lege na 690 metrih nadmorske višine je ob jezeru čez dan znosno vroče, ponoči se prijetno ohladi. Restavracije, kavarne in bari na obali so mamljivi, hrana, ki jo na veselje gurmanov strežejo tudi ob poznih nočnih urah, ko se v lokalih, odprtih na ulice, odvija pestro nočno življenje, je po svoji pripravi in okusu deležna le presežkov. Samostani in cerkvice na idiličnih lokacijah ob vodi, vožnje s čolni, pogledi na jezero z okoliških hribov, plavanje in namakanje v prijetni vodi ...

Besedilo in fotografije: Matic Brumen


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{ Makedonija }

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V vasici Brajčino, ki leži v neokrnjeni naravi med Prespanskim jezerom in naravnim parkom Pelister, se obiskovalec vrne nekaj desetletij nazaj v času. V stari stavbi lokalne trgovine je hkrati še družabni prostor, kjer domačini igrajo šah in karte, pred stavbo, centralno točko dogajanja v vasi, pa je tako čez dan kot ob večerih zbrana večja skupina moških, ki debatirajo ob cigaretah in pivu. Vaščani, ki se šele spoprijemajo z možnostmi privatnih pobud in ponujanja storitev, od katerih se da tudi živeti, obiskovalcem ob domači hrani bolj svetujejo kot ponujajo aktivnosti v naravi. Se pa trudijo, da bi vas postavili na zemljevid sveta z eko turizmom. Iz Brajčine vodi strma pot v park Pelister, kjer od bolj nevarnih živalskih vrst prebivajo medvedi, kače in divji prašiči, travnata pokrajina pa je zaradi obilice pisanih vrst rastlin prav lirična. Mimo vrha na 2400 metrih in Velikega jezera (Golemo jezero, kjer je tudi planinska koča) se na drugo stran pot spušča proti Bitoli. Severno od Pelisterja je manjše mesto Prilep; na njegovem obrobju je z majhnimi belimi kamni posuta pot, ki pelje mimo trdnjave Markovih kul do samostana Treskavec. Markove kule naj bi bil zapustil znameniti kraljevič Marko, srbski kralj, ki je vladal v tem delu Makedonije. Trdnjava je na 200 metrov visokem hribu, kjer se nahajajo izkopanine še iz antičnih in rimskih časov. V času turških vpadov se je v utrdbo skrilo tudi okoliško prebivalstvo in tukaj vztrajalo do Markove smrti ter prevlade Turkov ob koncu 14. stoletja. Z vrha trdnjave seže pogled do nasadov tobaka, ki se razprostirajo za mestom ter po Prilepskem jezeru in okoliških hribih. Z Markovih kul pridemo v dveh urah po pešpoti do samostana Treskavec, skritega na višini 1400 metrov. Pot se pne po travnato-kamniti pokrajini, kjer se zdi, kot bi bil na luni: ogromni kamni in skale ležijo v nenavadnih položajih, kot bi prileteli z neba. V mnogih prepoznamo živalske like. Tako popotnika že sama zložna hoja v hrib po tej pokrajini in pod žgočim soncem rahlo premakne v drug svet, v stanje zamaknjenosti, in ga tako pripravi na poseben kraj, ki ga čaka. Za kamnitimi skladi se pred pogledi iz doline skriva samostan, ki naj bi ga bili prvič zgradili v 12. stoletju in ga nato večkrat porušili. Nekoč je v samostanu delovalo okrog sto pravoslavnih menihov, vendar po vseh menjavah režimov danes deluje le še eden. Nekdanje celice samostana so preurejene v lične skromne sobice za popotnike, ki za prenočitev plačajo toliko, kolikor želijo. Na voljo je kuhinja, prijazni mladi fantje, študentje iz Skopja, ki tam preživljajo poletja, pa popotnike prijazno postrežejo s čajem.

Samostani in cerkvice na idiličnih lokacijah , vožnje s čolni, pogledi na jezero z okoliških hribov, plavanje in namakanje v prijetni vodi ...

ob vodi


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{ Makedonija }


{ Makedonija }

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Nekoliko južneje od Prespanskega jezera ob meji z Grčijo je očarljivo mesto Bitola, ki je bilo od padca kraljeviča Marka do začetka 20. stoletja del otomanskega imperija. Bitola je poimenovana mesto konzulov, saj je v njej na prehodu iz 19. v 20. stoletje živelo 12 konzulov, kar takoj opazimo po razkošni arhitekturi. Njena razmejenost med vzhod in zahod jo dela privlačno še danes, ponaša se z univerzo in s kinematografsko tradicijo – brata Manaki naj bi bila v Bitoli posnela prvi film na Balkanu. Iz prostrane baščaršije in mnogih minaretov, ki se dvigajo nad mestom, ter iz posebne kulinarične ponudbe pa se širi vonj po vzhodu. Ob obisku jugozahodnega dela Makedonije mi je bilo jasno, da ima stereotip o odličnem makedonskem paradižniku trdno osnovo, prepričal pa sem se tudi o neokrnjeni in mikavni naravi južne Makedonije. Klimatske razmere ravno pravšnje, hrana sveža in okusna, cene v primerjavi s slovenskimi zelo ugodne. Ljudje mehki, prijazni, dobronamerni in pošteni, kot bi se jih še ne dotaknila okrutnost ponorelega kapitalizma. Restavracije, lokali in ulice polne ljudi, ki se sprehajajo, posedajo po klopeh, predvsem pa med seboj komunicirajo. Življenje, ki se odvija zunaj domov in se ne konča ob sončnem zahodu, pa traja pozno v noč.


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{ Macedonia }


{ Macedonia }

Summers by the Lakes Text and photography: Matic Brumen

W ( 44 )

hile it’s true that Macedonia and Slovenia were once part of the same country, they were at opposite ends of Yugoslavia, so apart from a few stereotypes about growing rice and tobacco, along with juicy tomatoes, I had no particular idea what Macedonia was like. Lake Ohrid, under UNESCO protection and an essential stop on any trip to Macedonia, provides the country with 50 kilometres of shoreline, which is comparable to Slovenia’s own coast. Its position at 690 metres above sea level means the lake is tolerably hot by day, and it cools off pleasantly at night. The restaurants, cafes and bars along the shore are hard to resist, and the food, which to the delight of foodies is served even late into the night, when the local establishments that open onto the street provide plenty of nightlife variety, can only be described in superlatives in terms of preparation and taste. Monasteries and tiny churches at idyllic locations by the water, boat rides, views of the lake from the surrounding hills, swimming and soaking in the pleasant water… In the little village of Brajčino, which lies in unspoilt surroundings between Lake Prespa and Pelister Nature Park, the visitor is taken back several decades in time. The old building housing the local shop also serves as a place for socialising, where the locals play chess and cards, while in front of the building, the central point of all goings-on in the village, both day and night there is a sizeable group of men gathered there for debate over cigarettes and beer. The villagers, who are only just getting to grips with the possibilities of private initiative and offering services that can provide a livelihood, tend more to offer advice to visitors over some local food, rather than offering activities in nature. But they are trying to get their village on the world map through ecotourism. From Brajčino a steep trail leads to Pelister Park, where the more dangerous animal inhabitants include bears, snakes and wild pigs. The hundreds of colourful plant species give this landscape a lyrical appeal, and past the 2,400 metre peak and the lake of Golemo jezero (where there is also a mountain lodge), on the other side the trail heads down towards Bitola. North of Pelister is the little town of Prilep; at its margins is a trail strewn with little white stones that leads past the fortress of Markove kule to the monastery of Treskavec. Markove kule was supposedly abandoned by the famous Marko Kraljević, or Prince Marko, the Serbian king who ruled this part of Macedonia. The fortress stands on a 200-metre high hilltop, where finds from Antiquity and Roman times have been discovered. During the period of Turkish incursions, the fortress also provided a

Monasteries and tiny churches at idyllic locations , boat rides, views of the lake from the surrounding hills, swimming and soaking in the pleasant water…

by the water

refuge for the surrounding population, which held out here until Marko’s death and the onset of Turkish dominance at the end of the 14th century. The top of the fortress offers a view of tobacco plantations stretching out behind the town, and of the Prilep lake and surrounding hills. From Markove kule a two-hour hike along the footpath takes you to the monastery of Treskavec, hidden away at an altitude of 1,400 metres. The trail rises through a landscape of grass and rock, where you might think you’re on the moon. Vast rocks and boulders lie in unusual positions, as if


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they had landed from the sky. In many of them you can make out animal forms. In this way a gentle hike into the hills through this landscape and under the burning sun shifts the traveller gradually into a different world, into a state of removal, thereby preparing him for the special place that awaits. Concealed behind the stacks of stone, out of sight from the valley, stands a monastery supposedly first built in the 12th century and then torn down several times. At one time there were around a hundred Orthodox monks at the monastery, but after all the regime changes there is now just one. The former monastic cells have been converted into neat, modest little rooms for wayfarers, who pay whatever they want to stay the night. There is a kitchen available, and the friendly young student lads from Skopje who spend the summer there happily serve tea to travellers. A little further to the south from Lake Prespa, along the border with Greece, is the enchanting town of Bitola, which from the demise of Marko Kraljević and up to the beginning of the 20th century was part of the Ottoman Empire. Bitola is called the town of consuls, since at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century some 12 consuls lived here, and this is immediately noticeable in the luxurious architecture. Its sense of division between East and West renders it still attractive today, and

it boasts a university and cinema tradition – the Manaki brothers purportedly made the first film in the Balkans here in Bitola. The extensive baščaršija or souk and the many minarets rising above the town, as well as the culinary specialities on offer, give off a fragrance of the East. Visiting the south-western part of Macedonia, it was clear to me that the stereotype of outstanding Macedonian tomatoes had a solid basis, and I was also able to confirm first hand the unspoilt natural attractions of southern Macedonia. The climate is just right, the food fresh and tasty, and prices compared to Slovenia are very agreeable. The people are gentle, friendly, well-intentioned and honest, as if they had not yet been touched by the ruthlessness of unbridled capitalism. Restaurants, cafes and streets full of people walking, sitting on benches and, most importantly, communicating with each other. Life, which is pursued outside the home and does not close down with the sunset, but lasts late into the night.

A

Adria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana–Skopje dvakrat dnevno. Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Skopje twice a day.


Goričko

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Zeleni otok presahlega morja P

o rodu sem Prekmurec, a moji prvi otroški spomini na Prekmurje niso najlepši. Rodil sem se v Ljubljani, bil sem mestni otrok, oče pa me je vsake šolske počitnice za dva, tri tedne vzel s sabo v Veliko Polano. In medtem, ko je on tam pisal katerega od svojih romanov, hodil na lov in ribolov ali pa klepetal s sošolci in prijatelji iz otroških let ob kozarcu jurke ali klitona z domače brajde, sem bil jaz bolj ali manj prepuščen samemu sebi in svoji iznajdljivosti. To so bili časi, ko se je svetilo še s petrolejko, o tistem redkem avtomobilu, ki je pripeljal skozi vas, pa se je govorilo še cel teden. Tako je razumljivo, da sem se zdel polanskim otrokom skorajda tako tuj in nenavaden kot kakšen zeleni možic iz vesolja, sam pa praktično tudi nisem razumel niti besede tega, kar so govorili. Ni presenetljivo, da sem se svojih prisilnih prekmurskih počitnic kmalu naveličal in si vroče želel nazaj domov v Ljubljano, Prekmurje pa mi je postajalo z vsakim letom bolj zoprno. A ne za vedno!

Besedilo in fotografije: Miško Kranjec


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{ Goričko }

V

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se se je spremenilo, ko sem mnogo let kasneje na eni od poti tja spoznal Cvetko, žensko svojega življenja. Bilo je, kot da bi si nataknil očala in nenadoma videl vse drugače in v popolnoma novi luči. Takrat sem se začel tudi resno ukvarjati s fotografijo in Prekmurje s svojimi dobrimi, odprtimi ljudmi, s svojimi logi in močvarami, s slamo kritimi hišami, z Muro ter ravnico, katere horizonta ni zastirala nobena gora, je postalo moje najljubše področje fotografskih iskanj. Če sem rekel, da prekmurskega obzorja ne kazi nobena gora, pa to ne pomeni, da je ravnina povsod, kamorkoli se obrneš. Na severu se nagrbanči in vzpne, a takoj za cesto, ki vodi iz Moravcev v Lendavo, že preide ravnica v nizko gričevje, ki se razteza vse tja do avstrijske in madžarske meje. Goričko, kot se ta svet, razumljivo, imenuje, nam ravenskim Prekmurcem ni bilo nikoli povsem pri srcu. Ljudje, ki so tam živeli, so bili malo drugačni, »inačišnji« bi rekli mi po domače, pa tudi prekmurščina, ki so jo govorili, ni bila čisto enaka. Sam nisem veren, a brez dvoma je imela tudi vera nekaj pri tem, saj je na Ravenskem in Markovskem doma rimskokatoliška cerkev, oni tam gori pa so protestantje. Tako me moje poti in fotografska iskanja niso ravno pogosto zanesli med goričke griče, ko pa so me že, sem se počutil nekako utesnjenega. Tam spodaj je bil pogled čist, okoli se je bočilo neizmerno nebo, preko katerega so počasi pluli beli oblaki; a četudi so bili črni in se je iz njih grozeče pobliskavalo, si vedel pravočasno, kaj prihaja. Tudi zgubiti se ni dalo zlahka, saj si v nebo štrleče zvonike vaških cerkva videl na kilometre daleč. Nekega dne pred dobrimi štirimi leti pa je zazvonil telefon. Na drugi strani se je oglasil Anton Vratuša, dolgoletni ugledni slovenski politik, velik Prekmurec po srcu in eden od ustanoviteljev Ustanove dr. Šiftarjeva fundacija Petanjci. Povedal je, da ustanova pripravlja vodnik po Goričkem, ki je bilo leta 2003 z uredbo Vlade Republike Slovenije razglašeno za krajinski park, in da si zelo želi, da bi fotografije za ta vodnik posnel jaz. Izkazano zaupanje mi je pomenilo veliko priznanje, a vseeno sem si vzel čas za premislek. Za dobro pokrajinsko fotografijo je potrebno vsaj troje: čas, odgovarjajoči, po možnosti izjemni svetlobni in vremenski pogoji ter ustrezen osebni odnos do pokrajine. Za prva dva pogoja sem že takoj vedel, da bosta težko izpolnjena, saj je seznam, ki sem ga dobil, obsegal na stotine krajev, objektov in lokacij, ki naj bi jih posnel; več kot dvestokilometrska razdalja med Ljubljano, kjer prebivam, in Goričkim pa tudi ni omogočala ujeti najboljših trenutkov za snemanje. Predvsem pa me je skrbelo, ali bom uspel vzpostaviti tisti pristni, intimni odnos s pokrajino, izvleči iz nje najboljše, kar ponuja, in jo predstaviti bralcem tako, kot si zasluži. A moj strah je bil pri tem zadnjem povsem odveč. Že prvič naju je oba s Cvetko, ki me je spremljala skoraj na vseh obiskih in je bila izjemna pomočnica in spodbujevalka, Goričko povsem očaralo, saj sva ga tokrat gledala z drugačnimi očmi. Z vsakim gričem, ki sva ga prevozila, z vsakim novim pogledom, ki se nama je odprl, sva se bolj in bolj zaljubila v to mehko valovito pokrajino, prekrito z cikcakasto razporejenimi raznobarvnimi krpami polj, travnikov, vinogradov in gozdov. Motivi, predvsem tisti nenapisani na seznamih, ki sem jih dobil, so se ponujali skoraj na vsakem koraku – čudovite panorame, chiaroscuro polj in

travnikov, bleščečega rumenila ogrščice in globoke modrine neba, pa svetlobe v prekrasnih bukovih gozdovih, visoke, v vetru mehko valujoče trave, modriša v žitnem polju, z gozdovi obdanih jezer, starih, a še ohranjenih mlinov z mehanizmi, izdelanimi iz lesa, neizmerne lepote jesenskih barv, črno-bele romantike z drobno snežno odejo prekritih vinogradov ... Kako hudo nama je bilo, da sva na kratkih, v glavnem enodnevnih obiskih, drvela od ene postavke na seznamu do druge, ne da bi lahko v zbranosti in brez časovnega pritiska uživala vso to lepoto. Žal sta se v precejšnji meri uresničila oba prva pomisleka – čas in svetloba. Prvega je bilo odločno premalo, svetloba pa – kakršna je bila, tako sem izkoristil. Saj ne, da bi bil nezadovoljen s tem, kar sem naredil, vem pa, da bi lahko še bolje. Goričko, ta zeleni otok presahlega morja, je še tam, prelep in vabeč, in s Cvetko se bova tja še vračala, a takrat za najino dušo, brez pritiska časa in seznamov. Le tako bova lahko v polni meri uživala v lepoti in spokojni mehkobi njegovih gričev, ovitih v jutranjo svetlobo sonca, dvigajočega se nekje tam, kjer to morje še ni do kraja presahnilo.

Tam spodaj je bil pogled čist,

okoli se je bočilo neizmerno nebo, preko katerega so počasi pluli beli oblaki ...


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{ GoriÄ?ko }


{ Goričko }

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A Green Island in a Dried-up Sea Text and Photography: Miško Kranjec

A

lthough my family is from Prekmurje, my earliest childhood memories of the region are not the happiest. I was born in Ljubljana, a child of the city, but during every school holiday my father would take me with him to Velika Polana for two or three weeks. And while he was busy writing one of his novels, setting off on a hunting or fishing expedition, or chatting with old schoolmates and childhood friends over a glass of jurka or klinton made with grapes from the trellis by the house, I was more or less left to myself and my own ingenuity. This was a time when oil lamps were still used for lighting, and on the rare occasions that a car drove through the village people would talk about it for a week. It is understandable, then, that to the children of Polana I seemed almost as strange and alien as a little green man from space, while for my part I could hardly understand a word that they said. It is hardly surprising that I quickly got fed up with my compulsory holidays in Prekmurje and longed to be back home in Ljubljana. Prekmurje grew more abhorrent to me with every year that passed – but it would not always be like this.


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{ GoriÄ?ko }


{ Goričko }

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Everything changed when, many years later, on one of my trips to the region, I met Cvetka, the woman of my life. It was as though I had put on a pair of glasses and suddenly saw everything differently and in a completely new light. That was also when I began to get more seriously involved in photography, and Prekmurje, with its good, open-hearted people, its woods and wetlands, its thatched houses, the river Mura, and a plain extending to a horizon uninterrupted by mountains, became my favourite place to seek out photographic experiences. I say that no mountain disfigures the Prekmurje horizon, but this does not mean that it is flat everywhere you turn. In the north the landscape wrinkles and climbs, as just beyond the road running from Moravci to Lendava the plain gives way to low hills that extend as far as the Austrian and Hungarian borders. Those of us from the flatter parts of Prekmurje never wholeheartedly embraced Goričko (the name literally means “hill region”). The people who lived there were different somehow, and even the dialect they spoke was not the same. I am not a religious person but there is no doubt that faith also had something to do with it, since the people of Ravensko (“the flatlands”) and Markovsko were Roman Catholics, while the people up there were Protestants. So my visits and photography trips did not often take me among the hills of Goričko, and when they did I felt somehow ill at ease. Down below the view was pure, the infinite sky arching all around, with white clouds sailing slowly across it – and even if the clouds were black and lightning flashed menacingly from them, you always had plenty of warning of what was coming. It was also difficult to get lost, because the bell towers of the village churches, jutting up into the sky, were visible for miles around. One day, just over four years ago, I got a phone call. The voice at the other end of the line belonged to Anton Vratuša, a prominent Slovene politician of many years’ standing, a great Prekmurec at heart and one of the founders of the Dr Šiftar Foundation in Petanjci. He told me that the Foundation was preparing a guide to the Goričko region, which in 2003 had been designated a nature park and protected landscape area by the national government, and that he would really like me to take the photographs for this guide. I was honoured by this demonstration of confidence in my abilities, but even so I had to think about it. A good landscape photograph needs at least three things: time, suitable (or preferably outstanding) light and weather conditions, and an appropriately personal relationship with the landscape in question. Regarding the first two of these conditions, I immediately knew that it would be difficult to meet them, since the list I had been given ran to hundreds of localities, buildings and locations that I was supposed to photograph, while the distance of more than 200 kilometres that separated Ljubljana, where I live, from Goričko made it impossible to catch the best moments for shooting photographs. Above all, however, I was concerned about whether I would be able to establish that genuine, intimate relationship with the landscape, to draw out from it the best that it has to offer, and present it to the readers of the guide in the manner that it deserves. As it turned out, my fears in this respect proved to be entirely unfounded. On our very first visit, Cvetka and I (she accompanied me on almost all my visits and provided me with fantastic assistance and

encouragement) fell entirely under Goričko’s spell, since now we were seeing it with different eyes. With every hill we drove over, with every new view that opened up before us, we fell more and more in love with this softly undulating landscape covered with the zigzag pattern of a varicoloured patchwork of fields, meadows, vineyards and forests. Subjects for photographs – particularly ones that did not appear on the list I had been given – offered themselves at almost every step: wonderful panoramas, the chiaroscuro of fields and meadows, the dazzling yellow of the rape fields and the deep blue of the sky, the light in the wonderful beech forests, the tall grasses waving gently in the breeze, the cornflowers growing in the fields of grain, the tree-fringed lakes, the old mills, carefully preserved with their original wooden machinery, the bound-


Down below the view was pure,

the infinite sky arching all around, with white clouds sailing slowly across it ... less beauty of autumn colours and the black-and-white romance of vineyards covered with a fine blanket of snow. How terrible it was for us, on our brief visits, most of them only lasting a single day, to have to rush from one item on the list to the next without being able to enjoy all this beauty without distraction and the pressure of time. Unfortunately, my first two reservations – those regarding time and light – proved to be largely justified. There was decidedly too little of the former. As for the light, I made the best of it, such as it was. It is not that I am dissatisfied with my work, but I know that I could do better. Goričko, this green island of a dried-up sea, is still there, beautiful and inviting, and Cvetka and I will return there, but this time for our own benefit, without the pressure of time and lists. Only in this way will we be able to enjoy in full measure the beauty and tranquil softness of its hills swathed in the light of the morning sun rising up somewhere over there where the sea has still not dried up completely.

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( 53 )


Rudarjenje nekoÄ?

ÄŒas je, ( 54 )

da pade meja tudi pod zemljo


P

red kratkim sem z alpinističnima kolegoma raziskoval stene nad idilično vasico Log pod Mangartom in v neki grapi visoko nad gozdno mejo naletel na približno meter krat dva velike železne ostanke nečesa. Le kdo bi tako težko reč nosil sem gor, smo tuhtali in jo skušali izkopati iz grušča. In ko nam je to uspelo, smo ugotovili, da gre najbrž za ostanke letalskega rezervoarja ameriškega bombnika iz druge svetovne vojne. Napisi v angleščini so se še dali prebrati. Verjetno ga je odvrgel, ko se je vračal z napada na rajh.

Besedilo: Tadej Golob

Fotografije: Rafael Marn

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{ Rudarjenje nekoč } Zgodovina na kupu

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Dvomim, da je še kje košček Slovenije s toliko zgodovine, kot je premore ta njen skrajni severozahodni del. Že pred mejnim prehodom z Italijo na Predelu te pozdravijo ostanki topniške avstroogrske baterije, ki je nekoč merila na Nevejsko sedlo. Po nekaterih italijanskih virih naj bi prav iz nje izstrelili prvo topovsko kroglo na soški fronti. (V dokaz, da zgodovina ni mrtva, jo krasi svež grafit 'Ein Tirol'.) Nekaj metrov naprej stojita opuščeni carinarnici na italijanski in slovenski strani pa kmalu za njima umirajoči lev in ostanki trdnjave Predel. V njej so maja 1809 po nekajdnevni bitki s premočnimi Francozi v danes že pozabljeni vojni med Francijo in Avstrijo padli skoraj vsi njeni branilci skupaj s poveljnikom, inženirskim stotnikom Johannom Hermannom von Hermannsdorfom, ki jo je tudi zgradil. Dva, tri ovinke naprej po spuščajoči se cesti naletimo na nov most čez hudourniško strugo Predelice, po kateri je jeseni 2000 prihrumel zemeljski plaz, odnesel stari most, na svoji rušilni poti razdejal Log pod Mangartom in pod seboj pokončal sedem ljudi. A še preden nas cesta pripelje v ta na pogled idilični kraj med gorami, je treba skozi Strmec, mimo spomenika padlim, ustreljenim domačinom, ki so jih pobili esesovci kot povračilo za partizanski napad na rudnik svinca in cinka v Rablju in na vojaško enoto, ki je zadevo preiskovala. In ko smo v Logu in ko govorimo o zgodovini, moramo omeniti še pokopališče iz prve svetovne vojne in stare fotografije džamije, ki je nekoč, med to vojno, stala v tem za mošejo popolnoma edinstvenem kraju – edina kadarkoli v Sloveniji. Za nami je vsega šest kilometrov poti. Kot lahko vidite, je zgodovina, predvsem 'uvožena', tukajšnjim ljudem, pa tudi tistim, ki so jo zanesli sem od drugod, prinesla samo slabo, trpljenje in pogubo. Obstaja pa svetla izjema, pomnik na nekaj, kar je kraje, ki ležijo na svoji strani treh bližnjih meja, povezovalo in jim prinašalo kruh. Trd in nevaren, a vseeno kruh. Če boste pri majhnem obeležju sv. Barbare, ki stoji med Spodnjim in Zgornjim Logom, zavili na stransko cesto in po njej peljali kakšnih sto metrov, boste naleteli na vagončke in lokomotivo, takoj za njimi pa na vhod v predor, v Štoln, kot so mu rekli (po nemški besedi za predor); po njem so vozili rudarje do rudnika v Rablju, v katerem je delalo veliko Slovencev, najprej z Avstrijci, potem pa, ko so ti odšli in je Rabelj padel pod Italijo, z italijanskimi kolegi.

Rudnik v Rablju Če se s Predela spustimo na drugo stran od opisane, kmalu naletimo na Rabelj, po italijansko Cave del Predil, mestece, ki s svojimi nekajnadstropnimi zgradbami nekako ne sodi v osrčje alpske pokrajine. Ni treba biti prav posebej pameten, da izveš, zakaj so tam. Na severozahodnem obrobju vasice z mestno podobo se v strmine Kraljeve špice zažira rana dnevnega kopa nekdanjega rudnika svinca in cinka. Pod njo stojijo rudniške zgradbe in pod njimi so do globine 550 metrov do zadnjega, 17. obzorja segli rudarji v iskanju srebrnih svinčevih in rumenih cinkovih žil, ki v nasprotju s tistimi v rudnikih premoga ne ležijo vodoravno, pač pa bolj ali manj navpično. Natančnega datuma prvega rudarjenja v tej krajih ne ve nihče. Po nekaterih legendah naj bi tukaj prvi kopali že Rimljani, prvi pisni viri,

ki omenjajo rudarjenje v Rablju, obstajajo šele tisoč let po propadu rimskega imperija, ko je bamberški škof Anton dodelil Trbižanom in Bovčanom pisno dovoljenje za izkoriščanje rude na tem področju. Do začetka 18. stoletja so jo kopali na površju, potem pa začeli riti tudi pod zemljo. Prodiranje v globino je bilo nevarno in zahtevno predvsem zaradi vode, ki se je pojavljala v vedno večjih količinah in v rudnik pronicala s površja, pa tudi iz globin, ujeta med skalovjem, in je pri vrtanju udarjala na plano. Ker v 18. in 19. stoletju niso imeli dovolj močnih črpalk, da bi rudnik osušili, so se morali spomniti druge rešitve. In so jo našli.

Štoln Rabelj se nahaja na nadmorski višini 900 m, Log pod Mangartom pa tam, kjer danes leži vhod v predor, na višini 626 m. Če bi iz rudnika do Loga izvrtali predor, bi voda preprosto odtekla, so razmišljali in se leta 1895 lotili dela. Še prej se je morala rudniška uprava dogovoriti z občino v Logu pod Mangartom o dovoljenju za predor in odvod vode v potok Rojo na loški strani. Občina je pristala, toda s pogojem, da bodo predor izvrtali Ložani in Strmčani, od katerih so se mnogi potem zaposlili v rudniku. Priprave na vrtanje so trajale do leta 1899, ko so se dela začela. Šest let je minilo, da je bil predor končan, čeprav je bil sam preboj narejen že leta 1902. A takrat so bile predvidene mere predora manjše, potem pa je, tudi ali predvsem zaradi načrtov generalštaba avstroogrske vojske, Štoln začel dobivati današnjo podobo. »Predor, tak, kakršen je zdaj, ni bil narejen zaradi odvajanja vode, ampak predvsem zaradi vojske,« razlaga Jaka Vadnjal, upokojeni zdravnik iz Zagorja pri Pivki, ki je še kot študent medicine spoznal dekle iz Loga in si kasneje z njo, ženo, postavil vikend, kjer živi zadnjih petnajst let. »Kaj pa naj delam v Kranju?« kjer je delal v zdravstvenem domu, pravi, »tam bi si samo kravžljal živce.« In ker ga je vedno zanimala zgodovina Primorske, se je lotil preučevanja rudnika in Štolna, o katerem je ob njegovi stoletnici napisal zelo informativno brošuro. Bil je tudi prvi, ki je ugotovil, koliko avstrijskih vojakov in opreme je šlo v prvi svetovni vojni skozi rudnik na fronto. »Zaradi tega sem jih tudi že slišal,« priznava, »tako od Italijanov kot Avstrijcev, ki niso mogli prenesti, da bi nek laik ugotovil to, česar sami niso znali. Prav zadnjič je bil tukaj pri meni neki profesor iz Celovca, ki je dvomil o mojih dognanjih, in sem mu rekel: Če rudarska poročila lažejo, potem sem lagal tudi jaz. O prvi svetovni vojni je danes napisanega toliko, da se bog usmili, ampak nihče nima podatkov o prevozu. Sam sem pa razmišljal, da bom do podatkov prišel tam, kjer mora biti narejen obračun vojne. V rudniku so zelo natančno zapisali vsakega vojaka in vsako tono tovora, ker je vse to morala vojska tudi plačati.« In po njegovih podatkih je šlo skozi Štoln v letih 1915 do 1917 impresivnih 33.385 vlakov s 400.157 vagončki, ki so prepeljali na bojišče 446.890 vojakov. A vsaka vojna se nekoč vendarle neha. Tako se je tudi prva svetovna in predor je spet služil odvodnjavanju ter prevozu rudarjev na delo. Vse do leta 1970, ko ga je rudniška uprava zaprla, saj je postal avtobusni prevoz čez Predel cenejši od prevoza z ozkotirno železnico, ki jo je bilo treba nenehno vzdrževati. Občasno, ko je bila cesta pozimi zaradi snega zaprta, so predor in železnico spet usposobili.


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Slovenci v rudniku Od številnih slovenskih rudarjev, ki so delali v Rablju, je danes v Logu pod Mangartom živih le še nekaj. Eden od njih je Anton Mavrič, po domače Tonči z Vrha. Tam se je zaposlil v sedemdesetih in vztrajal vse do zaprtja rudnika. Bil je tudi eden tistih, ki so v protest proti zaprtju leta 1991 za sedemnajst dni ostali v jami in na ta način izsilili zaposlitev in prihodnost rudarjev, ki se niso mogli upokojiti. Pred tem je bil Tonči oskrbnik koče na Mangartskem sedlu, kjer so se pripravljali naši telovadci na olimpijske igre v Mehiki leta 1968. Koča namreč stoji na nadmorski višini skoraj 2000 m, kar je primerljivo z glavnim mehiškim mestom, pa so Miru Cerarju in kolegom kar tja gor pripeljali orodja in jih razpostavili okrog koče, ker notri pač ni bilo dovolj prostora. »Še danes se kdaj dobimo,« pravi Tonči. V rudniku je delal kot nakladač. Odkopano rudo je nalagal na vagončke – v dveh izmenah, tretja je bila redka, ker so morali biti previdni zaradi miniranja, saj bi se lahko (in se večkrat tudi je) kje kaj podrlo. Ruda se je nahajala v žilah, ki pa so bile, se spominja, sto, dvesto, tristo, tudi štiristo metrov dolge, široke pa vseh sort: od dvajset centimetrov pa tudi do dveh, recimo treh metrov. »In te rude je še,« doda, »pravijo, da so njene korenine še dosti nižje, saj so sondirali, ampak se je ni več splačalo kopati zaradi dnevnih kopov iz Amerike in od drugod, pa tudi zato, ker je plastika izpodrinila svinec in cink.« Kljub temu da je bilo

delo naporno in nevarno – pri delu je letno v povprečju umrl en rudar, od katerih je bilo samo v zadnjih desetletjih rudnikovega obratovanja kakšnih trideset slovenskih –, ga je imel Tonči rad. »Raje sem bil ’not’ kot zunaj,« pove z nasmeškom, »ker zunaj si bil na očeh – na režiji, tam so se držali ti šefi, da so kontrolirali delavce. V jami si imel pa mir. Notri smo pa našli tudi kaj drugega kot samo svinec in cink. Luknje, velike za bajto, in pa manjše, dva krat dva metra, obdane s kristali.« Rudnik je prenehal z delom 30. junija 1991. Njegov manjši del je danes na voljo za 40-minutni ogled, njegov prav tako zanimivi del, skoraj petkilometrski Štoln, pa zaprt z obeh strani. S treh pravzaprav. Na njegovi sredi, natančneje 2695 metrov od izhoda iz rova v Logu, stojijo debela kovinska vrata, ki so jih tja po partizanskih sabotažah postavili Nemci med drugo svetovno vojno, po njej pa so služila tudi kot svojevrstna podzemna pregrada med dvema državama in sistemoma, med Italijo in Jugoslavijo. Nad zemljo so ovire že padle, in če je soditi po podpisu pisma o nameri med bovškim in trbiškim županom o ureditvi Štolna v turistične namene, naj bi nekoč padla tudi ta pod njo. Ne bo preprosto in ne poceni, a čas bi že bil, da se 'železna zavesa' odstrani tudi pod zemljo.

{ Rudarjenje nekoč }


{ Mining in the Olden Days }

Time for the Underground Border to Come Down Text: Tadej Golob

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Photography: Rafael Marn

N

ot long ago I was exploring the rock faces above the idyllic little village of Log pod Mangartom with two fellow climbers when, in a ravine far above the tree line, I came across the iron remains of something measuring roughly one metre by two. Who would have brought something as heavy as this all the way up here, we wondered, as we tried to dig it out of the scree. Once we had succeeded, we realised that it was probably the remains of a fuel tank from a US bomber from the Second World War. The English words on it were still legible. The pilot probably jettisoned it on his way back from an attack on the Reich.

Heaps of history I doubt that there is any piece of Slovenia with as much history as this, its far north-western corner. Even before the border crossing into Italy, through the Predel/Predil Pass you are greeted by the remains of an Austro-Hungarian artillery battery that once pointed at the Sella Nevea. According to some Italian sources it was from here that the first shell was fired on the Isonzo Front. (And as if to prove that history is not dead, it is adorned by fresh graffiti reading “Ein Tirol”.) A few metres further on stand the abandoned customs houses on the Italian and Slovenian sides of the border and, just behind them, a monument adorned with a bronze statue of a dying lion and the remains of the Predel fortress. It was here that in May 1809, following a several-day battle with superior French forces in the now-forgotten war between France and Austria, almost all the defenders of the fortress fell, together with their commanding officer, Engineer Captain Johann Hermann von Hermannsdorf, who was also the fortress’s builder. Two or three bends further down the descending road we come across the new bridge over the torrential Predelica stream. In autumn 2000 an avalanche swept the old bridge away, caused great destruction in Log pod Mangartom and claimed seven lives. But before the road brings us to this seemingly idyllic village among the mountains, we have to pass through Strmec, past the memorial to the villagers shot by the SS as a reprisal for the

partisan attack on the lead and zinc mine in Rabelj and the military unit that was sent to investigate the attack. And while we are in Log and talking about history, we should also mention the First World War cemetery and the old photographs of the mosque, built during that same war, that once stood in this utterly unique location for a mosque, the only one anywhere in Slovenia. Behind us is a six-kilometre hike. As you can see, history, particularly “imported” history, brought only evil, suffering and ruin to the people of these parts – and also to those who brought it here from elsewhere. There is, however, one shining exception, a monument to something that linked the places lying each on their own side of the three nearby borders and provided them with a livelihood. Difficult and dangerous, but still a livelihood. If you turn off the main road by the little statue of St Barbara that stands between Spodnji (Lower) and Zgornji (Upper) Log and follow the side road for about 100 metres, you will see some little wagons and locomotive and, just beyond them, the entrance to a tunnel, or “Štoln” as it was known (a corruption of the German word Stollen, meaning “tunnel”), along which miners were transported to the mine in Rabelj, where many Slovenians worked, at first alongside Austrians and then, after Rabelj became part of Italy and the Austrians left, alongside Italians.

The Rabelj mine If you come down from Predel on the opposite side from the one we have just described, you soon come to Rabelj, or Cave del Predil to give it its Italian name, a little town with buildings several storeys high that sits somewhat incongruously in the heart of the Alpine landscape. It does not take much intelligence to work out why the buildings are there. At the north-western edge of this oddly urban village, the wound of the old open-pit lead and zinc mine is gouged into the steep slopes of Monte Re. Below it stand the mine buildings and below them, down to a depth of 550 metres, to the last horizon, the 17th, miners dug their way in search of silver veins of lead and yellow veins of zinc which, unlike coal seams, do not lie horizontally but more or less vertically.


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{ Mining in the olden days }


{ Mining } No one knows the exact date when mining first began in these parts. According to some legends it was the Romans who were the first to excavate here. The first written records to mention mining in Rabelj do not appear until a thousand years after the fall of the Roman Empire, when Johann Philipp Anton von Frankenstein, Prince-Bishop of Bamberg, granted the people of Tarvisio and Bovec written permission to exploit the ore in this area. Until the beginning of the 18th century ore was mined on the surface, after which they began to burrow underground. Penetrating deep underground was difficult and dangerous, particularly because of the water that appeared in ever greater quantities and trickled into the mine from the surface, but also from down below, where it was trapped between rocks and released by the drilling. Since in the 18th and 19th centuries there were no pumps powerful enough to dry out the mine, another solution had to be found. And found it was.

Štoln

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Rabelj lies at a height of 900 metres above sea level, while Log pod Mangartom, where the entrance to the tunnel lies today, is at 626 metres. It was conjectured that if a tunnel was bored from the mine to Log, the water would simply drain away. Work began in 1895. Before this the managers of the mine had to reach an agreement with the municipal authorities in Log pod Mangartom about permits for the tunnel and for draining the water into the Roja stream on the Log side. The municipality agreed, but on condition that the tunnel was built by men from Log and Strmec, many of whom were subsequently employed in the mine. Preparations for the tunnel took until 1899, and then the work finally began. Six years would pass before the tunnel was complete, although the breakthrough itself occurred in 1902. At that time, however, the planned dimensions of the tunnel were smaller. Later, in part or above all because of the plans of the general staff of the Austro-Hungarian army, Štoln began to take on its present appearance. “The tunnel as it exists today was not built to drain water from the mine but, first and foremost, because of the army,” explains Jaka Vadnjal, a retired doctor from Zagorje, near Pivka, who met a girl from Log when he was still a medical student and eventually married her. Later, he and his wife built the weekend cottage in Log where they have been living for the last 15 years. “What am I supposed to do in Kranj?” – where he worked in the health centre – he asks. “I would just get irritable.” And since he has always been interested in the history of Primorska, he started studying the mine and Štoln, about which he wrote an extremely informative brochure to coincide with its centenary. He was also the first person to ascertain how many Austrian soldiers and how much equipment came through the mine to the front during the First World War. “That has already earned me plenty of criticism,” he admits, “from both Italians and Austrians, who couldn’t stand the fact that a layman had discovered what they had been unable to. Recently I was visited by a professor from Klagenfurt who challenged my findings and I said to him: if the mine reports contain untruths, then I have told untruths too. Goodness knows a great deal has been written about the First World War, but no one has any information about the transport operations. It occurred to

me that I would find the information wherever the war accounts were drawn up. The mines authority kept a very careful record of every soldier and every tonne of freight, because the army also had to pay for all of this.” According to Dr Vadnjal’s data, an impressive 33,385 trains consisting of 400,157 wagons passed through Štoln between 1915 and 1917, and carried 446,890 soldiers to the front. But every war ends eventually. After the First World War, the tunnel once again served to drain the mine and to transport miners to work. Right up until 1970, when it was closed by the mines authority because bus transport over the Predel Pass had become cheaper than transport via the narrow-gauge railway, which was in constant need of maintenance. Occasionally, when the road was blocked by snow in winter, the tunnel and railway were brought back into service.

Slovenians in the mine Of the many Slovenian miners who worked in Rabelj, there are only a few left today in Log pod Mangartom. One of them is Anton Mavrič, known locally as Tonči, who began work in the mine in the 1970s and stayed there right up until its closure. He was also one of the men who in 1991 stayed in the pit for 17 days in protest at the closure of the mine and in this way forced the mines authority to guarantee employment


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and a future for those miners who were unable to take retirement. Before that, Tonči was the custodian of the mountain hut on Mangartsko Sedlo, where the Yugoslav gymnasts trained in preparation for the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico. The hut stands at an altitude of almost 2,000 metres above sea level, which is more or less the same altitude as Mexico City, so they transported the apparatus for [champion gymnast] Miroslav Cerar and his teammates all the way up the mountain and arranged it around the hut – because there was not enough room inside. “We still meet up from time to time today,” says Tonči. He worked in the mine as a loader, loading the excavated ore onto wagons, in two shifts. A third shift was rare, because blasting made caution necessary, and collapses could (and often did) occur. The ore was located in veins, and these veins, remembers Tonči were a hundred, two hundred, three hundred, even four hundred metres long and of many different widths. From 20 centimetres up to two or even three metres. “There is still ore down there,” he adds. “They say that its roots are much deeper – they have sent probes down – but it was no longer worth mining it because of open-pit mines in America and elsewhere, and also because plastic has taken the place of lead and zinc.” Despite the fact that the work was difficult and dangerous – on average one miner died every year, with some 30 Slovenian miners dying in the last decades of the mine’s operation alone – Tonči liked it. “I preferred to be inside than

outside,” says Tonči with a smile, “because outside you were always in view. The foremen sat up in the office and kept an eye on the workers. Down in the pit, though, they left you in peace. It wasn’t only lead and zinc that we used to find down there. Holes as big as a house, and smaller ones, two metres by two metres, surrounded by crystals.” The mine ceased operating on 30 June 1991 but a small section of it is today open to visitors. A tour takes 40 minutes. But the most interesting section, the almost five-kilometre tunnel known as Štoln, is sealed at both ends. At three ends, actually. In the middle of the tunnel, at exactly 2,695 metres from the tunnel entrance in Log, stands a stout metal door that was put there by the Germans during the Second World War following sabotage attacks by partisans. After the war it served as a unique underground barrier between Italy and Yugoslavia, two countries with two different forms of government. Above the ground the barriers have already fallen, and judging from the letter of intent signed by the mayors of Bovec and Tarvisio with regard to the development of Štoln for the purposes of tourism, this underground barrier is about to fall as well. It will not be simple or cheap, but the time has come to remove the “Iron Curtain” below the ground.

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Ljubezen v kamnu

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Pripoved »podpečana« Besedilo in fotografije: Igor Drnovšek

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gore kamnitega drobirja iz neposredne bližine. Ko pa so oživele kamnoseške delavnice v Ljubljani in okolici, je apnenec iz Podpeči doživel svoj čas razcveta. Arhitektove ideje je dleto v rokah kamnoseških mojstrov prelilo v pesem kamna. V harmonijo, ki nastaja v vseh prostorih skladnih oblik. Mojster Jože Plečnik je s podpečanom ustvaril svoja najlepša dela v Ljubljani.

uporablja pogosto, dobi občutek, da so milijoni let

Umetnik in kamen: zlitje duha in materije

pnenec iz Podpeči pri Ljubljani ima svojo zgodbo: dolgo in razburljivo. Navsezadnje njegovih 210 milijonov let

predstavlja častitljivo starost tudi na geološkem koledarju, pri katerem sicer človek, ki ga ne vredni še manj od milijonov somalijskega šilinga, ki ga je okužil virus inflacije.

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odpečan je redkobeseden – spregovori geologom, nagovarja umetnike. Prvim opisuje prostor nastanka in svoje dolgo potovanje s pomikanjem litosferske plošče iz tropskega v zmerni pas. Rojeval se je na morskem dnu toplega tropskega morja. Odloženo blato, v katerega se brez reda pomešajo ostanki morskega življa, se v primežu časovnih prostranstev predrugači v temen kamen s svetlim kalcitnim okrasjem. Dolge školjke z dvema debelima lupinama so raziskovalci izumrlih svetov poimenovali »lithiotis«. Beli prameni litiotid se v kamnu med seboj valovito prepletajo in mehčajo njegovo trdo podobo, kot da bi z njimi v podpečanu še naprej utripalo morje. Morda so bili Rimljani prvi, ki so ta kamen oblikovali po svojih predstavah. Najdbe pričajo, da so iz njega klesali nagrobne stele in plošče, votivne oltarje in preproste mejnike. V bližini kamnoloma v Podpeči so na Ljubljanici zgradili rečno pristanišče, od koder so bloke podpečana vozili tudi v Emono. S propadom njihovega imperija za dolgo zamre tudi kamnoseška dejavnost, kamnolom pa ponovno obudijo šele graditelji železniške proge, ki so za nasutje mokrotnih barjanskih tal potrebovali

Že v prvem večjem objektu, ki je bil v Ljubljani zgrajen po Plečnikovih načrtih, prevladuje podpeški apnenec. Cerkev Frančiška Asiškega jasno nakazuje poreklo mojstrovih vzorov. Svetloba, ki prihaja v notranjost skozi velika okna, in raven, lesen strop, spominjata na arhitekturo starokrščanskih bazilik in prostor napolnita z neko starosvetno energijo, ki ji je tudi profanost domača. Ker je glavni oltar pomaknjen nekoliko proti sredini cerkve, so gradnjo za nekaj časa celo ustavili, saj naj bi to ne ustrezalo krščanski tradiciji. K sreči so cerkev kasneje dokončali in oltar predstavlja gotovo eno od najveličastnejših hvalnic podpečanu. Vzvišeno, poduhovljenemu prostoru primerno resnobno črnino prepredajo elegantne linije kalcitnih žil v kontrastni belini. Vsepovsod pa še dodatki školjk, naključno razporejenih v temni gmoti apnenca – nekatere cele, ohranjene, druge razbite na koščke, v kaosu naravnih sil prenesene na morsko odlagališče življenja. In z igro narave prenesene na žrtvenik življenja. Tudi v največji slovenski Plečnikovi mojstrovini, Narodni in univerzitetni knjižnici, se razkošno razkazuje podpečan. Njegova prisotnost v vhodnem delu še dodatno prispeva k temačnosti prostora. Ko se po kamniti stopniščni »preprogi« dvigujemo v tempelj učenosti, pa nas postopoma oblije svetloba, ki napolnjuje preddverje

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{ Ljubezen v kamnu } čitalnice. Tako kot nam znanje iz hrama učenosti vsakodnevno razsvetljuje temo našega neznanja in nevednosti. Med številnimi kamnitimi elementi notranjosti knjižnice še posebej izstopajo kamnite police in njihovi žlebljeni nosilni stebri, ki jih je narava prav razsipno obdarila s fosilnimi ostanki litiotidnih školjk, ki ponekod s svojimi gosto posejanimi belimi prameni puščajo le malo prostora temeljni črnini podpečana. Kamnolom v Podpeči se počasi zarašča. Pred dvema desetletjema je bil razglašen za naravni spomenik, saj so iz njegovih kamnitih blokov zrasli številni presežki slovenske oblikovne dediščine. Arhitekt Jože Plečnik je svojo ljubezen prenesel tudi v kamen, ki s tem živi naprej – tako kot školjke v podpečanu, ki nas danes nagovarjajo glasneje kot za časa življenja.

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The Tale of Podpečan Text and Photography: Igor Drnovšek

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he limestone from Podpeč near Ljubljana has its own story – a long and turbulent one. After all, its life of 210 million years so far represents a venerable age, even on the geological calendar, although for those of us not in the habit of using that calendar regularly, somehow millions of years seem worth less than millions of inflation-afflicted Somali shillings. The Podpečan limestone is taciturn, and speaks to geologists and artists. To the former it describes its area of origin and its long journey of shifting lithospheric plates from the tropical to the temperate zone. It was born on the bed of a warm tropical sea. Deposited mud, into which comes a random mix of marine remains, metamorphoses in the slow vice grip of time into a dark stone with light calcite accents. The long molluscs with two thick shells have been named “lithiotids” by researchers of lost worlds. The white prongs of lithotids roil and interweave in the rock, softening its hard image, as if the sea was still swelling through them in the Podpečan stone. It may have been the Romans who were the first to apply their imagination to shaping this stone. Finds indicate that they hewed from it gravestones and slabs, votive altars and simple boundary markers. Close to the quarry at Podpeč they built a river wharf on the River Ljubljanica, from which they carried blocks of Podpečan to ancient Emona. The collapse of their empire also marked the start of a


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{ Love in Stone } long dormancy for the local quarry, and quarrying was only revived by the railway builders, who needed mountains of locally available rock aggregate to lay as a roadbed through the soggy wetlands. Then when the stonemason workshops were revived in Ljubljana and the surrounding area, the limestone of Podpeč came into its own golden age. Through the chisels of the master stonemasons, the concepts of architects were fused into songs of stone. Into a harmony that emerges in all spaces of concordant forms. The master architect Jože Plečnik used Podpečan stone to create his finest work in Ljubljana.

Artist and stone: a fusion of spirit and material

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In the very first major structure built in Ljubljana to Plečnik’s plans, Podpeč limestone predominates. The Church of St. Francis of Assisi clearly indicates the source of the patterns used by the master. The light entering the interior through the large windows and flat, wooden ceiling brings to mind the architecture of early Christian basilicas and fills the space with a kind of old-world energy for which the profane is also familiar. Since the main altar is slightly shifted towards the centre of the church, construction was even halted for a time, since this supposedly went against Christian tradition. Fortunately the church was later completed, and the altar represents without doubt one of the most magnificent paeans to Podpečan. The exalted, grave blackness, well suited to this sanctified space, is interwoven with the elegant lines of calcite veins in contrasting white. Everywhere there are the remnants of shells, scattered randomly through the dark mass of limestone – some still entire and preserved, others shattered and carried by the chaos of natural forces to the marine dumping ground of life. And through a trick of nature, transformed into a sacrificial stone of life. And in Plečnik’s greatest Slovenian masterpiece, the National and University Library, Podpečan stone is displayed in all its finery. Its presence in the entrance area enhances the darkness of the space. As we ascend the stone “carpet” of steps to the temple of learning, we are gradually bathed in light that fills the reading-room lobby. Just as every day knowledge from the shrine of learning illuminates the darkness of our ignorance. Particularly prominent among the numerous stone elements of the library’s interior are the stone shelves and their fluted bearing pillars, which nature has quite extravagantly adorned with fossils of lithiotid molluscs, and in places their dense weave of white extrusions leave little space for the basic black of the Podpečan. The quarry at Podpeč is gradually becoming overgrown. Two years ago it was declared a natural monument, since its stone blocks had given rise to numerous pinnacles of Slovenia’s design heritage. The architect Plečnik also channelled his love into stone, and in this way it lives on, just like the molluscs in the Podpečan, which speak to us today louder than when they were alive.

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JOŽE PLEČNIK

ako bi lahko obiskali Ljubljano, ne da bi spoznali katero od Plečnikovih mojstrovin? Si predstavljate, da se vrnete iz Barcelone in ne veste, kdo je Gaudi? Ali pa, da vam na primer ob ogledu Firenc zamolčijo Brunelleschija? Jože Plečnik je dal Ljubljani edinstven pečat. Njegov kozmopolitski duh je prav razkošno oplemenitil naše glavno mesto. Plečnikov navdih se je oplajal pri virih klasične arhitekture, njegov ideal je bila brezčasna arhitektura. Svetovljansko okolje Dunaja na prehodu v 20.stol. mu je namenilo izvrstnega profesorja. Otto Wagner, utemeljitelj dunajske secesije, mu je med drugim do mojstrske stopnje izostril čut za soodvisnost oblike in materiala, kar pri Plečniku opazijo številni ocenjevalci njegovega umetniškega opusa. Bil je eden redkih nekonformističnih umetnikov minulega stoletja. Secesijo je zapustil iz protesta, saj je začetna svetovljanska odprtost gibanja postajala vse bolj nemško usmerjena. Pokončna in načelna drža pa ga je pravzaprav pripeljala nazaj v domače okolje. V češki prestolnici je imel Plečnik kot arhitekt praškega gradu sicer idealne delovne pogoje, a zaradi pohoda funkcionalizma se leta 1921 odloči, da se vrne v Ljubljano.

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ow is it possible to visit Ljubljana without getting up close to one of Plečnik’s masterpieces? Imagine coming back from Barcelona and not knowing who Gaudi is. Or for instance touring Florence, and Brunelleschi being kept a secret. Jože Plečnik left a unique mark on Ljubljana. His cosmopolitan spirit ennobled our capital city in truly gorgeous style. Plečnik’s inspiration found sustenance in sources of classical architecture, and his ideal was timeless architecture. The cosmopolitan environment of Vienna at the beginning of the 20th century brought him to an outstanding professor. Otto Wagner, a founder of the Vienna Secession, honed Plečnik’s feeling for the co-dependence of form and material to a masterful level, something that has been observed by numerous appraisers of his artistic opus. He was one of the rare non-conformist artists of the past century. He left the Secession in protest, since the initial cosmopolitan openness of the movement was becoming increasingly German-oriented. His upright and principled stance in fact led him back to his native environment. While working as the architect of Prague Castle in the Czech capital, Plečnik did enjoy ideal conditions for his work, but, with the rise of functionalism, in 1921 he decided to return to Ljubljana.


Idrijska čipka

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Mesto, ki neskončne bele nitke spreminja v čarobno lahkotne čipke Besedilo: Maja Cimerman

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Fotografije: Matej Sitar

lop-klop-klopeti-klopeti-klop-klop-ti-klopeti-klop,« pojejo kleklji. »Klopeti-klop-klop,« plešejo kleklji med prsti v levo pa v desno pa v levo pa spet nazaj. Prsti jih prekrižajo, zamenjajo, ( 69 ) prenesejo. Zabadajo bucike z barvnimi glavicami v modre blazine. Skozi vrata razreda rado-

vedneži molijo glave, starši pritiskajo na sprožilec fotoaparata. Prsti pa vse bolj hitijo v divjem ritmu, otroške oči so strmo uprte v bele nitke, da se nobena ne zaplete, da se – nikar tega! – ne strga. Le še dvajset minut je časa. Le še dvajset minut lahko postanejo državni prvaki v klekljanju čipk.

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ipke so zasedle gimnazijo Jurija Vege v Idriji. Čipke pred vhodom, čipke na hodniku, v razstavnem prostoru. V razredih klekljajo otroci za zmago, v telovadnici se med seboj merijo odrasli. Na hodnikih čakajo obiskovalci, nekatere gospe so si v naročje položile klekljarski pribor in klekljajo, da hitreje mine čas. Letošnje tekmovanje je največje v zgodovini, 198 udeležencev poskuša v 45 minutah splesti kar največ kar najlepših čipk. Zdi se, da je visoka udeležba na letošnjem tekmovanju del vzorca, ki se plete okrog idrijske čipke – ta namreč v zadnjih letih doživlja preporod. Še nikdar po prvi svetovni vojni ni zanjo vladalo takšno zanimanje. Ni več zgolj način dodatnega zaslužka, kot je bila nekoč, temveč je postala del identitete regije. Ni več zgolj obrt, ki izdeluje namizne prtičke za stare mame, spet je postala modni dodatek, stvar prestiža. Znane Slovenke in nagrajenke lepotnih tekmovanj pošiljamo v svet z oblekami modnih oblikovalk, ki v svoje kreacije vpenjajo dela idrijskih klekljaric. Tujim državnikom podarjamo čipkaste umetnine kot protokolarna darila. Čipke so povsod: kot nakit, kot čevlji, celo kot pohištvo. »Klop-klop-klopeti-klopeti-klop.« V sozvočju z otroškim klepetom. »Klopeti-klop-klop.« Majhne glave se sklanjajo nad svoje punklje

okrog velike skupne mize. Njihove nitke so barvne, da lažje ločijo pare klekljev. Pod njihovimi prsti počasi, počasi nastajajo čipkasti kužki, miške, školjke, avtomobili. »Gospa učiteljica, gospa učiteljica, kako gre naprej?« sprašujejo zdaj eni, zdaj drugi. Čipkarstvo je njihov šolski izbirni predmet, trikrat na teden po dve šolski uri sedijo skupaj za mizo in klekljajo. In klepetajo. Izdelovanje čipke je vedno pomenilo tudi priložnost za druženje, klepetalnico. Starejši otroci pomagajo mlajšim, predse dajo njihov punkelj in jim pokažejo, kako izdelati težje prehode. Učiteljica se smuka med njimi, tukaj nekaj pripomni, tam pomaga razdreti narobe izdelan del. V Idriji in okoliških krajih imajo učiteljice pod svojim okriljem 400 otrok, starih od 6 do 15 let. Prva učiteljica na Idrijski čipkarski šoli je bila Ivana Ferjančič. Idrijčanka se je po čipkarskem izobraževanju na Tirolskem vrnila v rodni kraj, kjer je razvijala nove vzorce čipk, ki predstavljajo temelj današnje prepoznavne idrijske čipke. Po posvetu z dunajskim ministrstvom je v Idriji leta 1876 ustanovila čipkarsko šolo, kjer je poučevala tri leta, dokler ni v devetindvajsetem letu starosti po hudi bolezni umrla. Za seboj je pustila številne izvirne tehnike in nov rod učiteljic klekljanja, ki se je oplajal do danes.


{ Idrijska čipka }

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Zgodovina idrijske čipke pa se začne že precej prej. Najverjetneje s prihodom čeških rudarjev na delo v rudnik živega srebra. Njihove žene so bile vešče klekljanja in so si tako priklekljale dodaten zaslužek. Domača dekleta so se pri njih nagledala tehnik in jim dodala slovenske motive ter imena. Nastali so rogljički, srčki, kriščevke, gobice … »Klopeti-klop-klop-klopeti-klop,« odmeva po dvorišču gradu Gewerkenegg. »Klop-klop-klopeti-klop.« Gospa s črnimi lasmi in v črni obleki urno vrti kleklje. Oči ji veselo bliskajo izza velikih črnih očal. Na njenem punklju so v papirec zapičene bucike, okrog katerih plete zlate nitke. Na mizi ležijo modne revije in klekljarski pribor: kleklji, izstruženi iz trdega lesa, bucike iz nerjavečega jekla, sukanci – zlati, srebrni pa klasični beli. Prav pri vhodu so postavljene preproste čipke, ki si jih turisti kupujejo za spomin: srčki, deteljice, podkve in obrisi Slovenije. Teh proda največ, prikima. Za njo velika čipkasta pahljača, na levi in desni steni police, polne obeskov za verižice, pa sponke, uhani, zapestnice. Ponekod so vtkani dragi kamni, spet drugje je kakšen ahat ali opal oblečen v prosojno čipko. Lidija Anzelm je ena izmed mnogih izdelovalk čipk, ki ima v Idriji svoj atelje. V mestu se prodajalnice kar vrstijo. Čipkasti prtički, posteljnina s čipko, nakit, oblačila in modni dodatki kot čipka okrog robčka obrobljajo glavno ulico. Idrijske oblikovalke lovijo ravnotežje med ohranjanjem tradicionalne čipke in iskanjem sodobnega izraza ter novih prodajnih niš. Čipkarska šola in čipkarice sodelujejo z modnimi oblikovalci, študentkami tekstilstva Univerze v Ljubljani, proizvajalci pohištva. Skupaj si zastavljajo vprašanja, ki potiskajo naprej meje dojemanja tega, kaj je lahko čipka. Kateri material je potrebno uporabiti za čipko, ki bo predstavljala zadnji del sicer usnjenega čevlja? Kako se čipka obnaša z različnimi materiali na večerni obleki? Kako daleč lahko gre oblikovalka, da ostane čipka še vedno enoznačno idrijska? Kako uporabiti čipko na nove, še nikdar videne načine? Spalnice idrijskega proizvajalca pohištva Iles, denimo, so pravi homage čipkarski tradiciji.

Na barvnih svetlečih podlagah se razprostira odtis čipke velikanke, seveda s pripadajočo čipkasto posteljnino vred. Tako se zdi, da vsi skupaj vlečejo za isti klekelj in Idrija se uveljavlja kot edinstveno mesto, mesto, ki vdihava bele nitke in izdihava čarobno lahkotne čipke. »Klopeti-klopeti-klop-klop.« Kot zvočna podlaga. »Klopeti-klopetiklop.« Sivolasa turistka je sedla za punkelj, na katerem je delno izdelana čipka, in se zazrla v projekcijo pred seboj. Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš. Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš. Prsti poskušajo počasi izvajati ukaze, ki jih ustnice čisto tiho mrmrajo. Vendar se nitka kmalu zaplete. Gospa jo razplete in poskusi znova. Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš. Prsti pa zamenjajo, prenesejo, prekrižajo. Njen mož stoji za njo, z rahlim nasmeškom na obrazu kaže na veliko čipko v vitrini poleg njiju in sprašuje, kdaj, misli, bo pripravljena splesti takšno. Potem gresta mimo razstavljenih čipk z različnih koncev sveta, mimo oblačil s pridihom čipke, pa ven iz nagrajenega idrijskega muzeja.


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A Town Where Infinite White

Threads are Transformed Into Lace of a Magical Lightness Text: Maja Cimerman

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Photography: Matej SItar

lop-clop-cloppety-cloppety-clop-clop-ti-cloppety-clop sing the bobbins as they dance between fingers, left and right, left and right again. Fingers cross the bobbins, swap them round, carry them over. Fingers push pins with coloured heads into blue pillows. The heads of curious onlookers peer round the classroom door; parents take photographs. The fingers move faster and faster, in a wild rhythm, and the children’s eyes are fixed on the white threads, making sure that none of them gets tangled, that none of them breaks. Only 20 minutes to go. In another 20 minutes they can become national lacemaking champions.

Lace has taken over the buildings of the Gimnazija Jurija Vege in Idrija. There is lace outside the entrance, lace in the corridor, and in the exhibition space. In the classrooms, the children are lacemaking for victory; the adult competitors are in the gym. Visitors wait in the corridors. Some ladies have brought their own lacemaking kits and are working away with their bobbins to while away the time. This year’s competition is the largest in history, with 198 participants attempting to make as much beautiful lace as possible in 45 minutes. The high participation in this year’s competition is part of a pattern that weaves itself around Idrija lace. In recent years Idrija lace has undergone something of a renaissance. Not since the First World War has there been so much interest in it. No longer merely a way of earning a little extra money, as it once was, it has become part of the identity of the region. No longer limited to table napkins for grannies, lace has once again become a fashion accessory, a thing of prestige. Slovenia sends its celebrities and beauty-contest winners out into the world wearing dresses by fashion designers who incorporate the work of Idrija’s lacemakers into their creations. Foreign dignitaries are presented with works of art made of lace as symbolic gifts. Lace is everywhere: in jewellery, in footwear, even in furniture. Clop-clop-cloppety-cloppety-clop. In harmony with the chatter of the children. Cloppety-clop-clop. Little heads bow over their lace pillows around a large table. They use coloured threads to make it easier to distinguish the pairs of bobbins. Slowly but surely, lace puppies, mice, shells and cars take shape beneath their fingers. “Teacher, teacher, where do I go from here?” comes the cry, from different parts of the room. Lacemaking is an elective subject for these schoolchildren. Three

{ Idrija Lace }


{ Idrija Lace }

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times a week they sit round the table for a double period of lacemaking. And chatter. Lacemaking has always represented an opportunity for socialisation, a chance to chat. The older children help the younger ones, showing their own pillows and explaining how to do the difficult bits. The teacher glides among them, making suggestions and helping unpick parts that have gone wrong. Teachers in Idrija and the surrounding area have 400 children aged between 6 and 15 under their care. The first teacher at the Idrija Lacemaking School was Ivana Ferjančič. A native of Idrija, she studied lacemaking in South Tyrol before returning to her home town, where she developed new lace patterns that represent the foundation of today’s distinctive Idrija lace. In 1876, following a consultation with the ministry in Vienna, she founded a lacemaking school in Idrija. She taught there for just three years before succumbing to a serious illness at the tender age of 29. Behind her she left numerous original techniques and a new generation of lacemaking teachers that has grown from strength to strength. The history of Idrija lace, however, begins much earlier. Probably with the arrival of miners from Bohemia, who came here to work in the town’s mercury mine. Their wives were skilled at lacemaking and for them it was a way of earning some extra money. The local girls observed their techniques and added Slovene motifs and names. This was the origin of rogljički, srčki, kriščevke, gobice and so on. Cloppety-clop-clop-cloppety-clop. The sound echoes around the courtyard of Gewerkenegg Castle. Clop-clop-cloppety-clop. A lady with black hair and a black dress spins her bobbins skilfully. Her eyes flash merrily behind her big black glasses. On her pillow the pins are stuck into a paper pattern or pricking, around which she weaves gold threads. Fashion magazines lie on a table alongside lacemaking equipment: hardwood bobbins, stainless steel pins, different kinds of thread – gold, silver and traditional white. Simple pieces of lace are displayed near the entrance for tourists to buy as souvenirs: hearts, clover leaves, horseshoes and outlines of Slovenia. These are what she sells most of, she nods. Behind her, a large lace fan. On the walls to the left and right, shelves full of pendants for necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets. Precious stones are woven into some of them, while others feature an agate or opal dressed in transparent lace.

Lidija Anzelm is one of many lacemakers with a workshop in Idrija. The town is full of shops selling lace. Lace napkins, bed linen, jewellery, clothes and fashion accessories line the high street like a lace border. Idrija’s designers are seeking a balance between preserving traditional lace and finding a modern form of expression and new market niches. The lacemaking school and lacemakers collaborate with fashion designers, textiles students from the University of Ljubljana, furniture makers, and so on. Together they are asking questions that are pushing the boundaries of people’s understanding of what lace can be. What material should you use for lace that will represent the back section of an otherwise leather shoe? How does lace behave when combined with different materials on an evening gown? How far can a designer go if lace is to remain unmistakably Idrija lace? How to use lace in new ways never seen before? The bedroom suites by Idrija-based furniture maker Iles, for example, are a veritable homage to the lacemaking tradition. An impression of a giant piece of lace extends across gleaming, colourful bases – naturally with matching lace bed linen. And so it seems that everyone is pulling on the same bobbin and Idrija is establishing itself as a unique town, a town that breathes in an infinity of white threads and breathes out lace of a magical lightness. Cloppety-cloppety-clop-clop. Like a soundtrack. Cloppety-cloppetyclop. A grey-haired tourist sits in front of a lace pillow containing a partially completed piece of lace and gazes at the projection in front of her. Cross, swap, carry over. Cross, swap, carry over. Her fingers slowly try to obey the mute orders murmured by her lips. But the thread is soon tangled. She untangles it and tries again. Cross, swap, carry over. But her fingers swap, carry over and cross. Her husband stands behind her, a faint smile on his face, and points to the large piece of lace in the display cabinet next to them and asks her when she thinks she will be ready to make something like that. Then they walk past the exhibits of lace from various parts of the world, past clothes with a hint of lace, out of the award-winning Idrija museum into the open air.

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prostorih Idrijske čipkarske šole poteka srečanje udeležencev evropskega projekta z naslovom Čipka – razkošje in priložnost. Projektna skupina si je zastavila nalogo, da rekonstruira stare, že pozabljene čipke. Slovenske čipkarice so se lotile fragmenta čipke, ki je menda krasil obrobo hlač Janeza Vajkarda Valvasorja in predstavlja najstarejšo slovensko ohranjeno čipko. V 19. stoletju jo je v Valvasorjevi družinski grobnici našel Peter von Rodics, ki je bil raziskovalec življenja in dela Valvasorja. Čipka je v modri pisemski ovojnici z napisom, ki je pojasnjeval, da gre za čipko iz Valvasorjeve družinske grobnice, neodkrita ležala v Arhivu RS vse do leta 2001. Zaradi vpliva stoletij je bila v zelo krhkem stanju, vendar je čipkaricam kljub temu odprla vrata v svet starih slovenskih čipk. Čipka z rastlinskim ornamentom je bila izdelana s pomočjo štiriinštiridesetih parov klekljev, kot je bilo v našem prostoru običajno, dokler Ivana Ferjanič ni izumila tehnike klekljanja s sedmimi pari, ki se največkrat uporablja še danes. Za razliko od idrijske čipke, običajno izdelane iz lana, je bila Valvasorjeva čipka svilena in črno obarvana, kar je bil v 17. stoletju zadnji modni krik.

he Idrija Lacemaking School is currently hosting a meeting of participants in a European project entitled Lace – A Wealth for the Rich, A Blessing for the Poor. The project group has set itself the task of reconstructing old, forgotten lace patterns. Slovenian lacemakers have tackled a fragment of lace that is said to have adorned the trousers of 17th-century polymath J. V. Valvasor and represents the oldest surviving piece of Slovenian lace. It was discovered in the Valvasor family tomb in the 19th century by Peter von Rodics, who was researching Valvasor’s life and work. Until 2001 the lace lay undiscovered in the National Archives of the Republic of Slovenia in a blue envelope with an inscription explaining that the lace came from the Valvasor family tomb. The passage of time has left it in an extremely fragile state, but for today’s lacemakers it has nevertheless opened the door into the world of old Slovenian lace. The lace, which has a plant motif, was made using 44 pairs of bobbins, which was the custom in this part of the world until Ivana Ferjančič invented a technique using just seven pairs of bobbins – still the most commonly used technique today. Unlike Idrija lace, which is usually made from flax, Valvasor’s lace was made of silk and dyed black – the height of 17th-century fashion.

drija je bila tudi zaradi svoje lege idealna za razvoj čipkarstva. Mestece, ki se krčevito oprijema kamnitih bregov Idrijce, saj se le malo za njimi zemlja strmo vzpne proti nebu, je nudilo le malo možnosti za kmetijstvo, zato je bilo klekljanje eno redkih dejavnosti, ki je ženskam nudilo lasten prihodek. Precej majhen sicer, saj si je klekljarica za celodnevno prepletanje niti lahko privoščila kilo mesa ali dva hlebca kruha. Tudi nedostopnost Idrije je prav gotovo pripomogla k razvoju edinstvene čipke. Sicer so v Idrijo, ki je bila do pred nekaj stoletji pozimi celo popolnoma zaprta, prihajali vplivi iz drugih čipkarskih središč, z Dunaja in iz Italije, vendar kljub temu le postopoma in prejkone v homeopatskih odmerkih. Za skladnost z modo danega dne so skrbeli predvsem domači trgovci, ki so bili glavni oblikovalci vzorcev in hkrati odjemalci čipke. Pravzaprav so bili oni tisti, ki so ustvarili blagovno znamko »idrijska čipka« in izdelke pod tem imenom prodajali po celotni Evropi in Ameriki. drija’s position made it an ideal place for the development of lacemaking. The little town clings to the rocky banks of the Idrijca, behind which the ground rises up steeply towards the sky and offers scant possibilities for agriculture. Lacemaking was thus one of the few activities that offered the town’s women a chance to earn some money of their own. Earnings were modest, however, and a lacemaker could not earn enough with a whole day’s work to buy a kilo of meat or even two loaves of bread. Idrija’s inaccessibility certainly also contributed to the development of a unique form of lace. The influence of other lacemaking centres, in Vienna and Italy, did eventually start to make itself felt in Idrija – which until a few centuries earlier had been entirely cut off from the outside world, at least in winter – but the process was an extremely slow one. For the most part it was the local merchants who ensured that the lace was in line with the fashions of the day. They were also the chief designers of patterns and at the same time the biggest customers. They were even responsible for creating the Idrija lace trademark, selling products under this name throughout Europe and even in America.

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Danes

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Obrti in opravila na Škofjeloškem Š

kofja Loka, ujeta v objem obeh Sor, Selške na severu in Poljanske na jugu, ponuja odlično izhodišče za izvajanje obrti in opravil. Škofjeloški mestni obrtniki so se že v 15. stoletju povezovali v cehe. Izdelovali so predmete, ki jih ni bilo mogoče nikjer kupiti, danes pa rokodelski in obrtniški izdelki služijo predvsem kot spominki in darila, ki ponavadi nimajo uporabne funkcije. Na Škofjeloškem (geografsko gledano je to Škofja Loka z obema dolinama) je še danes ogromno različnih obrti in opravil: klekljanje, kvačkanje, pletenje, vezenje, peka dražgoških in loških kruhkov (pecivo iz medenega testa), sirarstvo, izdelovanje košar, košev, peharjev, brezovih metel, kovaštvo, čevljarstvo, pletarstvo, lanarstvo, oglarstvo, žganjekuha, apneničarstvo, kamnoseštvo, rezbarstvo, sodarstvo, klobučarstvo, glavnikarstvo ... Besedilo in fotografije: Jana Jocif


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{ Danes }

P

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otiho, skorajda po prstih sem stopila v hišo in plašno pozdravila: »Dober dan!« »O, kar naprej!« In že sem se počutila tako domače. Usedla sem se h krušni peči in se malo razgledala po sobi. Masivna lesena miza je bila pokrita z rdeče-belim karirastim prtom, na njej je stal jogurtov lonček, poln zvončkov. Ta gosposkih! V kotu sobe stoji bohkov kot. Na kavču je sedela mama in pela uspavanko bolnemu vnučku. Na podboju kuhinjskih vrat visi velik rožni venec. Na vratih je slonel ata in opazoval dogajanje. Na steni je slikarija domačije, kjer je živela mama. Ko je malo otroče zaspalo, smo šli v kuhinjo. V mentrgi je vzhajalo testo za kruh, na mizi je čakalo devet peharjev. Pečejo ga vsak teden. Včasih tudi po enajst hlebov. Na kuhinjski mizi hleb kruha, kozarec medu in velika žlica. Mama mi je prinesla ’šalo’ vročega in gostega mleka, na katerem se je že nabirala plast smetane. »Kar sama si odreži!« Odrezala sem si kos kruha in ga namazala z medom. Ata je medtem pletel pehar iz slame in jo polžasto navijal okrog sredíne dna peharja. Slamo je povezoval s protjem, ravno prav debelim in hkrati ravno prav tankim, da se ni lomilo, ko ga je navijal okrog slame. Te obrti se je naučil od svojega očeta. Za njim ni potomca, ki bi naprej ohranjal to znanje in spretnost. V času, ko je ata spletel pehar do konca, je po hiši omamno dišalo po pečenem kruhu. Ko sem se odpravljala proti domu, je mama v papirnat »škrnicelj« spravila hleb hrustljavega kruha – takega, ki ga ni moč kupiti.

Pred dvema letoma sem obiskala prvega rokodelca. Metlarja Rudla. Živi v vasi Puštal v neposredni bližini Škofje Loke – v skromni bajtici na hribčku s pogledom na loški grad. V majhni kurilnici ima svojo delavnico, kjer shranjuje tudi ves material za izdelavo brezovih metel. Tega nabere v zimskem času, ko ima les v sebi najmanj sokov. Izdelava poteka tako, da mojster ošiljene brezove šibe niza okrog ročaja metle in jih na koncu privije z žico. Gospod Rudl nima potomcev in nikogar ni, ki bi ga obrt zanimala v tolikšni meri, da bi prevzel njegovo znanje ... V ozki grapi v Poljanski dolini je skrita kovaška delavnica. Leta 1926 je v Logu kovaški mojster Matevž Krmelj kupil star mlin in začel z obrtjo. Kovačnico je 1960. leta za njim prevzel njegov sin, ki je proizodnjo še nekoliko razširil. Obrt je vodil do leta 1990, ko jo je prevzel njegov zet Jože Krmelj. Poleg delavnice so zgradili tudi pravo malo elektrarno, ki oskrbuje objekt z električno energijo. Stara nakovala in kladiva so zamenjali zmogljivejši stroji za kovanje, kljub vsemu pa pri nekaterih izdelkih še poprimejo za stara orodja. Njihovi izdelki so narejeni iz najkakovostnejšega jekla, kar zviša kakovost in podaljša življenjsko dobo izdelka. Upokojeni mojster Tone Guzelj iz Puštala pa danes le poredko razžari železo in ga skuje v izdelek. Največkrat popravi kakšno staro in izrabljeno orodje. Večjih naročil nima, prav tako ni potomca, ki bi ga ta obrt zanimala ... Cajnar Albin, upokojeni profesor, je doma v Kravji dolini v Retečah pri Škofji Loki. Izdeluje košare, cajne in jerbase. Gospod Albin pravi, da so materiali – vrbovo šibje, ki ga nabere – danes zelo slabi in se med izdelovanjem košar lomijo. Za njim ni nikogar, ki bi prevzel to tradicionalno znanje ... Čebelar z Lenarta, gospod Lojze, ki kuha kopo, klekljarica Slavka in čevljar Franc so bili še rokodelci, katerih delo sem zabeležila s fotoaparatom. Lansko leto je zaključil z delovanjem zadnji ceh s stoletno tradicijo, ki je preživel dobo industrializacije in ne nazadnje tudi globalizacije. Čevljar iz Puštala je bil eden zadnjih aktivnih članov škofjeloškega čevljarskega ceha.


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{ Present Day }


{ Present Day }

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Crafts and Tasks in Škofja Loka Text and Photography: Jana Jocif

Š

kofja Loka, caught in the embrace of the two Sora rivers, the Selška in the north and the Poljanska in the south, offers an outstanding base for pursuing crafts and tasks. Škofja Loka town craftsmen were already associated into guilds back in the 15th century. They made items you could not buy anywhere else, but today the handicrafts and artisanal products serve mainly as souvenirs and gifts that often have no practical function. In the Škofja Loka area (in geographical terms, the town of Škofja Loka and the two valleys) there are still a great many different crafts and trades: lacemaking, crocheting, weaving, binding, baking local biscuits (pastries made of honey dough), cheesemaking, various types of basketry, birch brooms, blacksmithing, shoemaking, wickerwork, linen, charcoal, distilling, quarrying, stonemasoning, carving, barrel-making, hat-making, comb-making and more.

Quietly, almost on tiptoes, I stepped up to the house and timidly called: “Hello!” “Oh, come on in!” and I immediately felt right at home. I sat down by the bread oven and had a little look around the room. The massive wooden table was covered with a red-and-white checked tablecloth, and on it stood a yoghurt pot full of little bells. The really fancy ones! In the corner of the room was a bohkov kot, a “God’s corner” shrine. On the couch sat the mother singing a lullaby to her poorly grandson. A large rosary hung from the kitchen doorjamb. The father leaned against the door, observing what was going on. On the wall was a painting of the homestead where the mother lived. When the little child fell asleep, we went into the kitchen. In the dough-trough table or mentrga, bread dough was rising, and nine straw baskets were waiting on the table. They bake every day. Sometimes as many as 11 loaves.


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ečina danes še aktivnih obrtnikov in izdelovalcev je bila rojena v času pred drugo svetovno vojno, zato se na Škofjeloškem zavedamo, kako

pomembno je ohranjanje znanja, in trenutno se vse aktivnosti natančno popisujejo in dokumentirajo. Še v tem letu bodo z vzpostavitvijo Rokodelskega centra na »Placu« v Škofji Loki poskrbeli, da bi se čim več rokodelskih in obrtniških znanj ohranilo. Zanimanje za rokodelstvo je izjemno veliko, zato je nastal projekt »Rokodelska dediščina v čezmejnem prostoru – včeraj, danes in jutri«, ki bo prav gotovo prispeval k ohranitvi tradicionalnih znanj, veščin in spretnosti.

T

he majority of craftsmen and artisans still active were born in the period before the Second World War, so in the Škofja Loka area we realise how

important it is to preserve these skills and at this time to accurately record and document all these activities. In this very year, the establishing of a Handicrafts Centre in the main square of Škofja Loka should serve to preserve as many artisanal and craft skills as possible. There is plenty of interest in handicrafts, and this gave rise to the project “Handicraft heritage in the cross-border area – yesterday, today and tomorrow”, which will contribute to preserving traditional knowledge, skills and crafts.


{ Present Day } On the kitchen table was a loaf of bread, a jar of honey and a big spoon. The mother brought me some milk that was hot and thick, so a thick layer of cream had collected on the top. “Just cut yourself some!” I cut myself a slice of bread and spread honey on it. The father meanwhile was weaving a basket of straw, which he was winding, snail-like, around the (middle) of the basket bottom. He was binding up the straw with a switch that was just thick enough and just thin enough not to break when he wound it around the straw. He had learned these skills from his own father. After him there are no more family members who might keep the craft going. As the father wove the basket to completion, the house was filled with the intoxicating aroma of baked bread. When I set off home, the mother popped into a paper bag a crusty loaf – the kind that is still warm and sticks to your teeth.

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Two years ago I visited the first artisan. Rudl the broom-maker. He lives in the village of Puštal right by Škofja Loka, in a humble little house on a low hill with a view of the town’s castle. He has his workshop in a little boiler room, where he also stores all the materials to make birch brooms. He collects the materials in the winter, when the wood has its lowest sap content. Production involves the craftsman wrapping the whittled birch twigs around the broom handle and then finally securing them with wire. Mr Rudl has no descendants, and there is no one interested enough in this craft to acquire his skills.

Hidden away in a narrow ravine in the valley of Poljanska dolina is a blacksmith’s forge. In 1926 the master blacksmith Matevž Krmelj bought an old mill in Log, and started up his trade. In 1960 the forge was taken over from him by his son, who expanded production a little further. He ran the trade until 1990, when it was taken over by his son-in-law Jože Krmelj. In addition to the workshop, they also built a proper little power plant that supplies electricity to the facility. The old anvils and hammers were replaced with more powerful forging machines, although for some items they still take up the old tools. Their products are made of


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the highest-quality steel, which raises the quality and extends the life of the product. The retired master smith Tone Guzelj in Puštal nowadays only rarely fires up the iron and forges it into some finished item. He mostly repairs the odd worn-out implement. He has no major orders, nor does he have any descendants interested in this trade. Albin the wicker basket maker, a retired professor, has his home in the valley of Kravja dolina in Reteče near Škofja Loka. He makes baskets and wicker containers. Mr Albin says that the materials – willow switches that he collects – are very poor nowadays, and break while he is making baskets. There is no one after him who might take over the traditional skills. The beekeeper from Lenart, Mr Lojze, who makes charcoal, lacemaker Slavka and cobbler Franc were other artisans whose work I recorded with my camera. Last year saw the winding up of the last guild with a centuries-old tradition, one that had survived the period of industrialisation and ultimately also globalisation. The cobbler of Puštal was one of the last active members of the Škofja Loka shoemaking guild.

A


Postojnska jama

jamski turizem Alternativni

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»Jaz sam sem v različnih deželah in kraljestvih, ne le po Evropi, ampak tudi po Afriki mnogo edinstveno čudovitih jam videl, ampak najbrž nikjer tako posebno občudovanja vrednih kot v moji očetnjavi ...« Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641–1693), Slava vojvodine Kranjske


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T

a naša »očetnjava« se je od Valvasorjevih časov sicer krčila, spreminjala svoje meje in vladarje, se osvobajala in osamosvajala, a nekaj je v njej ostalo prav takšno, kot je bilo takrat, ko je ta

slavni kronist prvič poškilil v podzemlje: naravno bogastvo slovenskega krasa, predvsem seveda številne jame, ki se skrivajo pod površjem. Še danes bi mu težko ugovarjali, pa tudi mnogim drugim, ki so mu sledili; te podzemeljske lepote daleč prekašajo večino svetovno znanih jamskih sistemov in naše jame so stoletja privlačile popotnike, vedoželjne učenjake in romarje, kakor se je pač reklo turistom še pred »izumom« turizma. Besedilo in fotografije: Arne Hodalič


{ Postojnska jama }

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Avantura za vsakogar

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začetku devetdesetih let, ko je zaradi balkanske vojne redni obisk svetovno znane Postojnske jame močno upadel, so v svoj program uvrstili posebno obliko obiska: pravo jamarsko avanturo. Od dvajsetih raziskanih kilometrov te jame so samo dobri trije kilometri dostopni rednemu obiskovalcu, torej tistemu, ki pri vhodu kupi vstopnico in se v jamo zapelje z znamenito jamsko železnico, ki so jo tu odprli že leta 1872. Vse ostalo je na voljo »posebnežem«. Vsi vodniki za te posebne obiske so pravi jamarji, ki preživijo ne samo svoj službeni, pač pa tudi večino svojega prostega časa med raziskovanjem podzemlja. Tako se manjše skupine navdušencev podajo po labirintu jamskih brezpotij in v jamarskih kombinezonih ob soju svetilk na čeladah se tem »izbrancem« razkrijejo lepote nedotaknjenega podzemlja. V lanskem letu je jamo na tak način obiskalo tisoč dvesto ljudi. Tak obisk jam je izjemna priložnost, da se marsikdo nauči občudovanja in obenem tudi varovanja naravne dediščine. Z ekološkega vidika so jame izredno občutljive in le osveščene skupine obiskovalcev so pogoj za njihovo ohranitev. Nikakor si ne moremo privoščiti, da bi nepremišljeno uničevali krhke prostore, ki so nastajali dolga tisočletja, in obiskovalci morajo vedeti, da se odlomljen kapnik ne bo »zacelil« v času nekaj stotin generacij naših vnukov. Hoja po občutljivi sigi in kalcitnih tvorbah, vsakovrstni, tudi najdrobnejši odpadki in še marsikaj drugega lahko trajno poškodujejo jamo. V svojo ponudbo so Postojnčani vključili tudi nekaj sosednjih jam, ki bi drugače ostale skrite navadnim obiskovalcem. Še posebej je zanimiva Jama pod Predjamskim gradom s svojo legendo o Erazmu

Predjamskem. Ta naj bi svojim oblegovalcem z grajskega obzidja metal sveže češnje, ki so mu jih prinesli skozi podzemni sistem prav te jame. Nedaleč od glavnega vhoda v Postojnsko jamo se lahko ob stenah 65 metrov globokega navpičnega brezna spustimo v Pivka jamo, kjer se po dnu pretaka skrivnostna reka Pivka. Njen vodni tok tu zapušča Postojnsko, Črno, in Pivka jamo ter teče po še neraziskanih rovih proti dobra dva kilometra oddaljeni Planinski jami. Pot je večinoma vklesana v prepadno steno in lahko se sprehodimo po divjem kanjonu med brzicami podzemeljske reke, ki je v davni preteklosti izoblikovala celoten postojnski jamski sistem. V Rovu starih podpisov taki »raziskovalci« najdejo številne podpise prvih obiskovalcev, ki segajo vse tja do leta 1213. Lahko se resnično vživijo v čase, ko so se ljudje, ki so še trdno verjeli v zmaje in čarovnice, s strahom odpravili v podzemlje in si pot razsvetljevali s kadečimi baklami. Tako kot na primer v osemnajstem stoletju, ko so za posebne priložnosti, kot so bile poroke na bližnjem gradu Hasberg, v jamo nagnali tudi po dva regimenta vojakov, da so z baklami osvetljevali jamske dvorane. Poseben čar takega obiska so tudi jamske živali. Postojnsko planinski jamski sistem je po jamski biodiverziteti še vedno na prvem mestu v svetu. Te živali so se večinoma umaknile turistom v globlje dele jam, pri tovrstnih obiskih pa lahko obiskovalci nekatere od njih tudi vidijo. In po takem obisku tudi lažje razumemo znamenito misel jamskega raziskovalca in takratnega jamskega svetilničarja Luke Čeča, ki je leta 1818 odkril nove dele Postojnske jame:

»Tu je nov svet, tu je paradiž!«


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{ Postojna Cave }


{ Postojna Cave }

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Alternative Cave Tourism Text and photography: Arne Hodalič

“I have myself, in different countries and kingdoms in Europe as well as in Africa, seen many uniquely wonderful caves, but probably nowhere as worthy of admiration as in my fatherland…” Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641–1693); The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola

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ince Valvasor’s times, this “fatherland” of ours has shrunk, changed its borders and rulers, sought liberation and independence, but something in it has remained exactly the same as when this famed chronicler first glimpsed the underground world. This, in particular the great number of caves hiding under the surface, is the natural wealth of the Slovenian karst. Even today, we could hardly argue with him or the many who have followed him; these subterranean beauties by far surpass most of the world’s famous cave systems, and for centuries, our caves have attracted travellers, curious scholars and pilgrims, as tourists were called before tourism was “invented”.


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{ Postojna Cave }


{ Postojna Cave } An Adventure for Everybody

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In the early 90s, when the Balkan wars heavily affected the rate of visits to the world-renowned Postojna cave, it began to offer a special type of tour: a true caving adventure. Of the 20 kilometres of this cave that have been explored, only around 3 are accessible to most visitors, that is the visitors who buy a ticket at the entrance to take a ride into the cave on the famous cave railway, first opened back in 1872. The remainder is available only to a special breed of guests. All guides on these special tours are proper cavers, who not only spend their working time but also most of their leisure exploring the subterranean. Small-sized groups of enthusiasts set off into a trackless maze of cave passages, where these select few, dressed in caving suits and accompanied by the glow of helmet lights, explore the unfolding beauties of an untouched underworld. Last year, the cave was visited in this way by 1,200 people. A visit of this type to the caves is a great opportunity for many people to learn how to appreciate as well as to protect our natural heritage. In environmental terms, the caves are extremely sensitive and developing the awareness of visiting groups is a necessary condition for their conservation. We cannot indulge in any thoughtless destruction of these fragile spaces that took millennia to form, and visitors should know that a broken stalactite will not “heal” for hundreds of generations of grandchildren to come. Walking on the sensitive sinter and calcareous formations, leaving the smallest amount of refuse, along with many other things, can cause permanent damage to the cave. The local people have developed the experience on offer with several nearby caves that would otherwise stay hidden from the ordinary visitor. One cave of special interest is that under Predjama Castle, with its legend about Erazem Predjamski, who is said to have thrown fresh cherries to

his besiegers from the castle walls, brought to him through the subterranean system of this cave. Not far from the main entrance to the Postojna Cave, it is possible to descend the walls of a 65-metre deep vertical abyss to Pivka Cave, at the bottom of which flows the mysterious River Pivka. This is where it leaves the Postojna, Črna and Pivka Caves and runs along a good two kilometres of still unexplored passages to the Planina Cave. The path is mostly hacked into a precipitous rock face and visitors walk through a wild canyon among the white waters of the subterranean river, which in the distant past moulded the entire Postojna cave system. In the Passage of Old Signatures “explorers” of this kind will find many signatures left by the first visitors, dating as far back as 1213. In this way they can make a connection with the times when people who still firmly believed in dragons and witches timorously ventured into the underworld, lighting their way with smoking torches. In the 18th century, for example, on special occasions such as weddings at the nearby Hasberg Castle, two regiments of soldiers were made to go into the cave to illuminate the subterranean chambers with torches. An enchanting feature of this type of visit is the fauna of the cave system. The Postojna-Planina system still ranks first in terms of cave biodiversity. Though the animals have mostly retreated from the tourists into the deeper reaches of the caves, visitors can spot some of them on tours of this kind. After a visit, it is easier to understand the famous words of the cave explorer and lamplighter Luka Čeč, who in 1818 discovered new parts of the Postojna cave system:

“Here is a new world, here is paradise!” A


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Surf na valovih Jadrana

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To je prava stvar!


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Z

a Jadransko morje je znano, da nima surferskih valov. To seveda ni presenetljivo, kajti morje je zaprto

med dolgo hrvaško in italijansko obalo, kamor oceanski tokovi niti približno ne sežejo. Presenetljivo pa je, da so entuziastični slovenski surferji v hrvaški Istri vendarle odkrili poseben del obale, kjer ob izjemno redkih spletih vremenskih okoliščin nastajajo valovi, primerni za surfanje.

Besedilo in fotografije: Simon Plestenjak


{ Surf na valovih Jadrana }

V

časih, ko so današnji surferji hodili s starši na Hrvaško na poletne počitnice, o surfanju na valovih ni vedel nihče prav ničesar, še najmanj lokalni ribiči, ki so sicer znali povedati marsikatero o dolgih in visokih valovih, kadar je od jugozahoda potegnil eden glavnih jadranskih vetrov – jugo. In prav jugo je v tej zgodbi o surfanju glavni igralec. Danes, ko so potovanja v Indonezijo, Avstralijo, Ameriko in še katere druge surferske destinacije približno tako zamudna, kot je bil nekoč skok v južno Dalmacijo, se je športni duh nekaterih Slovencev na obalah tamkajšnjih oceanov srečal z novim športom. Naučili so se surfanja in ob povratku seveda ves čas sanjarili o bližjih valovih za svoj novi hobi.

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Valovi za surfanje so v grobem dveh izvorov: t.i. »reef break« (kjer se valovi lomijo ob grebenih v oceanu) in t.i. »beach break« (kjer se valovi lomijo, ko morje naleti na počasen nagib peščenih plaž). Za surfanje je namreč bistvenega pomena, da se val lomi, kajti le tako ustvarja nekakšno steno, po kateri drsijo deske. Če imamo torej v Jadranu velike valove, ki jih spiha jugo, potem morda nekje obstaja počasi nagnjena plaža, kjer bi se ti valovi lomili! Skupina slovenskih surferjev je s to logiko v nekaj zadnjih letih prek kombinacije interneta, avtomatskih vremenskih postaj, google earth, zemljevidov, pričevanj ribičev in lastnih iskanj našla doslej še neodkrite surferske lokacije na Hrvaškem. Med njimi sta glavna, najboljša in najbolj obiskana Medulin in Barbariga. Ista logika je napeljala tudi Italijane, ki so svoja mesta našli v Jesolu, Lignanu in Gradežu, v Sloveniji pa je edina pogojno možna piranska Punta. To pa je tudi vse od morja, ki se zajeda najgloblje v osrčje Evrope in tako predstavlja najbližjo surfersko destinacijo za vse narode srednje Evrope. Medulin in Barbariga sta namreč oddaljena samo približno dve uri vožnje iz Ljubljane.

Zato ne gre zanemarjati pomena takšne lokacije za lokalno surfersko sceno. V Sloveniji se surferji združujejo že v 4 surferske klube, ustanovljena pa je bila tudi Surf zveza Slovenije, ki organizira vsako leto tudi slovensko državno prvenstvo Jugo Majstr, imenovano prav po znamenitem vetru. Prvič je bilo organizirano leta 2006. Ponavadi je na surfanju pri nas zelo mrzlo. Jugo, ki najbolj piha v zimskih mesecih, namreč prinaša vlažen zrak in vlažen mraz je tisti, ki najbolj zažira v kosti. Klemen Surk iz prvega slovenskega surferskega kluba Ujusansa, je v blogu na primer objavil ta zapis v dobrem slovenskem surferskem slengu: »Medulin, 4. 3. ob 13:55, voda ima baje 9,8 stopinj, ko prides ven, ne cutis dobro podplatov, drugace pa gre z dobrim wetsuitom. Vala je bilo 1meter, kaksen set tudi malo vec, piha rahel JZ, za jutr je napovedan hud jugo pa popoldan naj bi se umiril.« Vsekakor je potrebna »surferska duša«, da vloži toliko truda za tako malo surfanja v tako težavnih pogojih. Vendar ne gre toliko za količino surfanja kot za količino in intenziteto občutkov. Največ, kar lahko tu pričakuješ, so neredni valovi, ki se vsakič lomijo na drugem mestu, ledeno mrzla voda in ostro, kamnito dno. Gre predvsem za surfanje na kraju, ki ni bil nikoli mišljen za to! V Medulin sem se nekajkrat odpravil tudi sam – ne samo z desko, pač pa tudi s fotoaparatom. S skupino fantov smo vedno odšli iz Ljubljane že okrog 4h zjutraj. Glavno gonilo izletov je bil prijatelj, 33-letni profesionalni snowboarder Matevž Pristavec. Surfati je začel na Portugalskem in potem mnogo surfal v Indoneziji. Ko je pred nekaj leti osvojil bron na svetovnem prvenstvu v snowboard skokih (big air) mi je povedal: »Uspešen sem bil, ker sem šel med vsakim tekmovanjem surfat«. V Medulin zahaja tudi po 15krat na leto. »Všeč mi je, da pri odločitvi, kdaj gremo dol, obstaja neko tveganje. Ni tako kot na oceanu, kjer je vse dano. Mi moramo pregledati in spremljati kakih šest avtomatskih vremenskih postaj, da se znamo glede na napovedane valove in veter odločiti, kdaj bo najbolj ugodnih nekaj ur za surfanje,« pripoveduje Matevž. Poleg tako prekaljenih surferjev, kot je Matevž, pridejo v Medulin tudi manj izkušeni. Klemen Razinger, 33, ima o tem drugačne izkušnje: »Osebno mi Medulin ni najbolj pri srcu. Neprijazna obala, razbrazdano dno in nekonstantne razmere me zaenkrat še niso prepričali. Mislim, da je to lokacija za izkušene deskarje in daleč od tega, da bi se nekdo tam učil deskanja na valovih.« Vendar ima tudi on pristno surfersko dušo: »To je popolnoma drug svet v primerjavi s francoskimi ali španskimi spoti, vendar je velikokrat ravno tako romantičen. Ko se začne sonce spuščati proti horizontu in se po dolžini vala raztegne tista lepa zahajajoča svetloba, se ti zdi, da si nekje drugje, daleč od doma.« Večina mladih Slovencev si o hrvaški obali deli enake spomine – toplo mediteransko klimo, pečene ribe, glasen ponavljajoč se zvok škržatov, prijeten vonj borovcev, slano kožo in obvezno skakanje s skal v globoko kristalno morje. Surfanje pa ni bilo nikoli del tega kolektivnega spomina, zato je v teh negotovih in skopih razmerah tako dražeče – je nekaj svetovnega, kar surferji prinesejo domov. Je nekaj, o čemer bodo lahko pripovedovali svojim vnukom. Je klasična, večna zgodba o odkritju nečesa novega. Ampak ne novega na internetu. To je prava stvar!


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surfanje

Gre predvsem za na kraju, ki ni bil nikoli mišljen za to!

{ Surfing }


{ Surfing the Adriatic } SURF ZVEZA SLOVENIJE/SURF ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA http://www.surfzveza.si/ UJUSANSA SURF KLUB/UJUSANSA SURF CLUB http://www.ujusansa.si SURF KLUB/SURF CLUB http://www.surfer.si SURF KLUB TRIBU/SURF CLUB TRIBU http://www.tribu.si MANA’WAI http://manawai.si

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This is the Real Thing! Text and photography: Simon Plestenjak

T

he Adriatic Sea is not known for having surfer waves. Of course this is hardly a surprise, for the sea is enclosed between the long Croatian and Italian coastlines, and ocean currents come nowhere near it. What is surprising, though, is that enthusiastic Slovenian surfers have nevertheless discovered in Croatian Istria a particular part of the coast, where in an extremely rare set of weather conditions you can find waves suitable for surfing. In the days when today’s surfers went with their parents on summer holidays in Croatia, no one knew a thing about surfing the waves, least of all the local fishermen, who otherwise could tell you a thing or two about the long and high waves that formed whenever the weather sent in one of the main southerly Adriatic winds – the jugo. And it is indeed the jugo – short for jugovzhodni, or southeast wind – that plays the main part in this story of surfing. Nowadays, when travelling to Indonesia, Australia, America and other surfer destinations is just about as essential as it once was to hop down to southern Dalmatia, the sporting spirit of some Slovenians has encountered a new pastime on the shores of those oceans. They have learned how to surf, and on their return, of course they spend all their time dreaming about waves within easier reach for their new hobby. Surf waves are generated roughly in two ways – the “reef break” (where waves break over reefs in the ocean) and “beach break” (where waves break when the sea runs up against the gentle incline of a sandy beach). For surfing of course the essential thing is that the wave breaks, for only in this way does it create a kind of wall on which the surfboard can slide. So if the Adriatic can produce big waves, whipped up by the jugo, then there does perhaps exist somewhere a gently shelving beach where those waves could break! Over the last few years, a group of Slovenian surfers have applied this logic and a combination of the Internet, automatic weather stations, Google Earth, maps, stories from fishermen and their own searches to find hitherto undiscovered surf locations in Croatia. The two main locations, the best and most visited, are Medulin and Barbariga. The same logic has also lured Italians, who have found their own spots at Iesolo, Lignano and Grado, while in Slovenia the only conditional possibility is the Piran punta or point.

{ Surfing }

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{ Surfing the Adriatic } But this is it from the sea that probes furthest into the heart of Europe, thereby offering the closest surfing destination for all the people of Central Europe. Medulin and Barbariga are just about two hours’ drive from Ljubljana. So we should not ignore the importance of such a location for the local surfer scene. In Slovenia, surfers have already formed four surfing clubs, as well as the Surf Association of Slovenia, which organises every year a Slovenian national championship, Jugo Majstr – named of course after the famous wind. The competition was first held in 2006. Usually surfing here is a very cold affair. The jugo, which blows hardest in the winter months, brings with it damp air, and the damp air is what chills

When he won bronze a few years ago at the world championship in big air snowboard jumping, he told me: “I did well because between each competition I went surfing.” He goes to Medulin as often as 15 times a year. “I like it that there’s a certain amount of risk involved in deciding when to go down there. It’s not like the ocean, where everything is a given. We have to check out and monitor around six automatic weather stations, so we can decide, given the forecast waves and wind, when will be the optimum few hours for surfing,” says Matevž. Aside from such hard-bitten surfers as Matevž, the less experienced also come to Medulin. For this reason Klemen Razinger, 33, has a different story: “Personally Medulin isn’t my favourite spot. The inhospitable

you to the bone. Klemen Surk, a member of the first Slovenian surfing club, Ujusansa, published the following notes, for instance, in a blog complete with the best Slovenian surfer slang: “Medulin 4.3. at 13:55, water supposedly 9.8 degrees, when you get out you can’t really feel your feet, otherwise it’s OK with a good wetsuit. Waves 1 metre, some sets a bit more, gentle SW breeze, tomorrow forecasting strong jugo but calm in the afternoon”. Of course you need a “surfer’s soul” to put so much effort into such little surfing in such difficult conditions. But it’s not so much about the quantity of surfing as about the quantity and intensity of feelings. The most you can expect here is irregular waves that break each in a different place, icy cold water and a sharp, rocky seabed. This is, above all, about surfing in a location never intended for it! I myself went to Medulin a few times – not just with my board, but with my camera, too. Together with a group of guys, I would always leave Ljubljana around 4 am. The driving force behind these excursions was a friend, the 33-yearold professional snowboarder Matevž Pristavec. He started surfing in Portugal and then surfed a lot in Indonesia.

shoreline, the jagged seabed and changeable conditions have not won me over for the moment. I think this is a location for experienced surfers, and it’s far from being a place where someone could learn to surf the waves.” But he, too, has a genuine surfer’s soul: “This is an entirely different world to the French or Spanish spots, but for that very reason it’s often romantic. When the sun starts setting towards the horizon, and that beautiful setting sunlight catches the length of the waves, it seems like you’re somewhere else, far from home.” The majority of young Slovenians share the same memories of the Croatian coast – the warm Mediterranean climate, grilled fish, the loud, repetitive noise of the cicadas, the pleasant fragrance of the pines, salty skin and the obligatory jumping off rocks into the deep crystal sea. And surfing was never a part of this collective memory. For this reason, in these uncertain and meagre times, surfing is so alluring – it is something global that surfers have brought home. It is something that they will be able to tell their grandchildren about. It is the classic, eternal tale of discovering something new. But not something new on the Internet – this is the real thing!

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A


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surfing

This is, above all, about in a location never intended for it!


Egipt

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V tiĹĄini med koralnimi norÄ?ijami


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U

ra je bila pet zjutraj, sonce še ni vzšlo in bilo je hladno. Zavit v rjuho sem si v prijetnem jutranjem hladu kar težko predstavljal, da bo čez nekaj ur v tem šotoru

postalo nevzdržno, kajti vročina, ki se julija v Egiptu pojavi takoj po sončnem vzhodu, se hitro povzpne krepko čez štirideset stopinj. Zrak je bil prijetno suh in kar čutil sem vonj po puščavi, ki je plaval po zalivu Marsa Shagra. Ampak jutro je najlepši del dneva in najbolj zanimivi potopi so ponavadi prav zjutraj. Besedilo in fotografije: Borut Furlan


{ Egipt }

G

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ladina v laguni je bila gladka kot olje. Voda, modra in bistra, me je prijetno vsrkala vase s svojo poletno toplino. Jutranja bonaca v laguni je razmejevala dva popolnoma različna svetova. Zgornji svet je puščava, svet sonca, peska in kamnov, svet, ki mu pripadamo mi. Vse je bilo odeto v tople rjavkaste tone, ki so ob sončnem vzhodu zažareli v še bolj rdečih odtenkih. Spodnji svet je svet neskončne modrine, spokojne tišine, a hkrati tudi svet vrvečega življenja. Koralni greben se prebudi, še preden prvi sončni žarki predrejo gladino in ga obarvajo s svojo zlatkasto jutranjo svetlobo. Pisane koralne ribice, zastavice in cesarčki, vrvijo med koralnimi vejicami in si iščejo drobnih črvičkov in rakcev za pod zob. Plamenke, odete v svoje čudovite, a strupene resaste plavuti, po nočnem lovu počivajo v senci večjih koral. Barvite ustnače neumorno patruljirajo po grebenu, pikaste samotarske kirnje pa lenobno poležavajo vsaka na svojem dvorišču. Plašni hlastači se združujejo v tesne jate in se stiskajo k večjim koralnim skladom. Rumeni klovnčki se s svojimi družinicami zadržujejo v varnem zavetju tentaklijev svojih anemon, toda kadar se njihovi hiši približa vsiljivec, ga hrabro preženejo z grozečim škrtanjem s čeljustmi v svojih malih ustecih. Koralni greben je odet v oblake oranžnih kirnjic, ki neumorno hlastajo za nam nevidnim planktonom. Nedaleč od Marse Shagre se razprostira čisto drugačen, a nič manj zanimiv zaliv – Marsa Abu Dabab. Njegovo dno je peščeno in prekrito s sramežljivo morsko travo. Na njem se pasejo orjaške želve, ki lenobno poležavajo v kratki travi, jo po malem žvečijo in se občasno spomnijo, da bi se bilo morda potrebno napotiti na gladino po kratek požirek zraka. Včasih jim delajo družbo mlade rumene ribice piloti, ki si v oblakih peska, dvigujočega se pri želvjem muljenju trave, poiščejo slastne črvičke. Če imamo srečo, lahko na paši srečamo tudi redkega dugonga ali morsko kravo, simpatičnega rastlinojedega morskega sesalca s smešno glavo in elegantnim delfinjim repom.


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V bližini travnatega zaliva je koralni labirint, imenovan Sharm Abu Dabab. Tu so korale ustvarile sistem rovov, jezerc in votlin z luknjami v stropu, skozi katere prodirajo srebrni sončni žarki, ki predirajo temo in migotajo, kadar veter nakodra morsko gladino. Pred vhodom v labirint se običajno zadržuje velika jata mladih barakud, ki se kot velikanski srebrno siv oblak razprostirajo nad koralnim grebenom. Barakudice so dobro znane roparskim šnjurom, ki z odprtega morja prihajajo po svoj krvni davek. Šnjuri se zaganjajo v oblak iz slastnega mesa, a ta se jim spretno izmika in velike plenilke se pogosto znajdejo sredi tunela, katerega stene sestavljajo ribja telesa. Jata od daleč zgleda kot en sam ogromen, neprestano spreminjajoč se živ organizem. Daleč na odprtem morju se razprostira koralni greben Shaab Shagra, bolje znan kot Elphinstone, in se kot mogočen zid dviguje iz velikih globin. Njegove stene so navpične, ponekod celo previsne in odete v čudovite mehke korale in gorgonije, ki so jim ljubši senčni predeli. Na vrhu grebena se bohotijo kamene korale, kajti le te se lahko uspešno zoperstavijo neumornemu rušečemu delovanju velikih valov. Greben nudi dobra zaklonišča številnim koralnim ribicam, ki so hrana večjim plenilcem z odprtega morja. Sem zahajajo morski psi, kot sta beloplavuti oceanski pes in kladvenica. Posebno v poletnih mesecih sre-

čujemo jate teh lepih velikih plenilcev z značilno glavo v obliki velikega kladiva. Ko sonce zaide za rdečkastimi gorami v zaledju Marse Shagre in ko se prične zrak nad skalami, razbeljenimi od sonca, ponovno ohlajati, se prebivalci koralnega grebena zamenjajo. Večina ribic se poskrije globoko med koralne veje, kjer so varne pred nočnimi plenilci. Noč je čas rakcev, ki lačni pokukajo iz svojih skrivališč, da bi si napolnili svoje drobne, a nenasitne želodčke. Marsikatera kozica pri tem naredi uslugo večji ribi, ko jo očisti nadležnih zajedavcev. Na svoj račun pridejo tudi lepe in počasne plamenke, ki počistijo greben vseh naivnih malih ribic, ki se pravočasno ne poskrijejo v zavetje koral. Po številnih dnevnih in nočnem potopu tudi sam zapustim koralni raj in se vrnem med prijetne rjuhe v svojem šotoru. Potrebno se je spočiti in si nabrati novih moči, kajti še prehitro bo spet nov dan in nadaljevalo se bo moje raziskovanje skrivnosti koralnega grebena Marse Shagre.

{ Egypt }


{ Egypt }

Silence

Amidst a Riot of Coral Text and photography: Borut Furlan

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I

t was five in the morning, the sun was not yet up and it was cold. Wrapped in a blanket, I was having difficulty in the pleasant morning chill imagining that in a few hours it would become unbearable in this tent, for the July heat, which sets in just after sunrise in Egypt, quickly climbs way past 40 degrees. The air was agreeably dry and I sensed the fragrance of the desert wafting around the bay of Marsa Shagra. But morning is the nicest part of the day, and the most exciting dives usually happen in the morning. The surface of the lagoon was as smooth as oil. The water, blue and clear, sucked me pleasantly into its summer warmth. The morning calm in the lagoon delineated two completely different worlds. The upper world was the desert, the world of the sun, sand and rock, the world to which we belong. Everything was draped in warm brownish tones, and glowed increasingly red as the sun rose. The lower world was a world of infinite blue, of tranquil silence, and at the same time a world of teeming life.


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{ Egypt }


{ Egypt } The coral reef awakes even before the first rays of sun pierce the surface and paint it in golden morning light. Colourful little coral fish, bannerfish and Emperor angelfish, swarm around the coral branches hunting tiny worms and shrimp to snack on. Firefish, decked out in their fantastic but poisonous tasselled fins, rest in the shade of bigger corals after their night’s hunt. Brightly coloured parrotfish tirelessly patrol the reef, while lone spotted groupers laze about, each in their own courtyard. Timid snappers huddle together in tight schools and stick close to large coral masses. Yellow clownfish and their little families stay in the safe refuge of the tentacles of their own anemones, but whenever an intruder approaches their house, they boldly drive them away with threatening chomping of their little jawbones. The coral reef is covered in clouds of orange swallowtail seaperch, ceaselessly grazing on what are to us invisible plankton. Stretching out not far from Marsa Shagra is a completely different, but no less fascinating bay – Marsa Abu Dabab. It has a sandy bottom and is covered with coy seaweeds. This is the grazing ground of giant turtles, which lazily disport themselves in the short seaweed, chewing off a little and occasionally remembering that they might need to head to the surface for a quick gulp of air. Once in a while they are joined by

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young yellow pilot fish, looking for tasty worms in the clouds of sand stirred up by the turtles grazing on the seaweed. If you’re lucky, in this pasture you might even encounter a rare dugong or sea cow, the lovable plant-eating marine mammal with its odd head and elegant dolphin’s tail.


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Close to this seaweed bay is a coral labyrinth called Sharm Abu Dabab. Here the corals have created a system of galleries, pools and caverns with holes in the roof, through which silver sunrays penetrate the darkness, shimmering when the wind curls the surface of the water. A large school of young barracuda is usually hanging out at the entrance to the labyrinth, hovering like a gigantic silver-grey cloud above the coral reef. The young barracuda are well known to the plundering Atlantic horse mackerel, which come in from the open sea for their pound of flesh. The mackerel race into the cloud of delicious meat, but the agile cloud avoids them, and the great predators frequently find themselves in the middle of a tunnel walled entirely of fish bodies. From a distance the school looks like a huge, constantly changing, living organism. Far out in the open sea lies the coral reef of Shaab Shagra, better known as Elphinstone, which rises from the great deep like a mighty wall. Its walls are perpendicular, in some places even with overhangs, and are decked with wondrous soft corals and gorgonia, which favour the shadier parts. Proudly topping the reef are rock corals, for they alone can withstand the ceaseless destructive efforts of the great waves. The reef offers a safe haven for numerous little coral fish, which would otherwise be food for the bigger predators in the open sea. It is

also visited by sharks such as the oceanic whitetip and hammerhead. Particularly in the summer months you can encounter schools of these fine large predators, with their characteristic heads shaped like great hammers. When the sun goes down behind the reddish mountains inland from Marsa Shagra, and when the air over the sun-bleached rocks starts to cool down again, the denizens of the coral reef change places. Most of the little fish hide deep down among the coral branches, where they are safe from night predators. Night is the time for crabs, which poke hungrily out of their hiding holes to fill their tiny, insatiable stomachs. Here many shrimp do a favour for bigger fish, cleaning them of annoying parasites. The beautiful, slow firefish also come into their own here, clearing the reef of all the na誰ve young fish that are not quick enough to hide in the shelter of the coral. After numerous day and night dives, I also leave the coral paradise, and return to the pleasant sheets in my tent. I need to rest up and gather new strength, for all too soon it will be a new day and time to continue exploring the mysteries of the Marsa Shagra coral reef.

A


SLOV EN IJA Nekaj osnovnih podatkov 2

površina (v km )

gozdovi travniki polja in vrtovi sadovnjaki vinogradi

20 273 10 124 5 593 2 471 363 216

forests grassland fields and gardens orchards vineyards

546 324 235 102 46,6

with Croatia with Austria with Italy with Hungary coastline (in km)

20273 10124 5593 2471 363 216 546 324 235 102 46.6

highest point

najvišja točka

Triglav

territory area (in sq. km)

border length (in km)

dolžina meje (v km)

s Hrvaško z Avstijo z Italijo z Madžarsko obala (v km)

A few facts

2864 m

Triglav

2864 m

population density

gostota naseljenosti

(prebivalcev/km)

98

(inhabitants/km)

98

prebivalstvo

2 milijona

population

2 million

Ljubljana

capital

glavno mesto večja mesta: podnebje:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko

Ljubljana

major towns: climate:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

Alpine, Continental, Mediterranean

language:

jezik:

Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvom pa madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajo prebivalci Slovenije največkrat angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino.

The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. People who live in Slovenia most commonly use English to communicate with foreigners, then German, Italian and French.

denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

currency:

prazniki

holidays

1. in 2. januar 8. februar 8. april 27. april 1. in 2. maj 25. junij 15. avgust 31. oktober 1. november 25. december 26. december

novo leto Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik velika noč dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna) praznik dela dan državnosti Marijino vnebovzetje dan reformacije dan spomina na mrtve božič dan samostojnosti

The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

January 1 & 2 February 8 April 8 April 27 May 1 & 2 June 25 August 15 October 31 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Holiday  rešeren Day, P Slovene Day of Culture Easter Sunday and Monday Day of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2) Labour Day Pentecost Statehood Day Assumption Day Reformation Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Day Independence Day


EV ROPA EU ROPE

Redni poleti / Scheduled Flights Zimski in poletni vozni red Iz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Čarterski poleti / Charter Flights Winter and summer timetables Iz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam

606/1122

1.35 h

Antalya

966/1789

Athens

761/1409

2.05 h

Aqaba

1454/2692

3.18 h

Banjaluka

157/291

0.45 h

Cairo

1276/2363

3.25 h

Barcelona

686/1270

1.46 h

Chios

738/1367

2.10 h

Belgrade

267/494

0.65 h

Constanca

654/1211

1.55 h

Brussels

559/1035

1.26 h

Djerba

796/1474

2.20 h

Copenhagen

641/1187

1.39 h

Dubrovnik

292/541

1.05 h

Dublin

1026/1900

2.38 h

Heraklion

832/1540

2.15 h

Frankfurt

420/778

1.07 h

Hurghada

1533/2839

3.45 h

Istanbul

781/1446

1.53 h

Ibiza

799/1480

2.20 h

Kiev

730/1352

2.05 h

Karpathos

996/1844

2.35 h

London (Gatwick)

757/1402

1.56 h

Kefalonija

585/1083

1.45 h

Manchester

868/1608

2.11 h

Kerkira (Corfu)

523/968

1.35 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo)

1120/2074

2.35 h

Kos

873/1616

2.20 h

Munich

224/415

0.41 h

Larnaca

1197/2216

3.00 h

Ohrid

434/803

1.09 h

Lefkas (Preveza)

567/1050

1.40 h

Paris (C. de Gaulle)

616/1141

1.36 h

Lesbos (Mitiline)

746/1381

2.10 h

Pristina

622/1150

1.50 h

Malta

670/1241

2.00 h

Podgorica

365/676

1.25 h

Menorca

646/1196

1.55 h

Sarajevo

222/411

0.41 h

Mykonos

793/1468

1.56 h

Skopje

413/765

1.07 h

Palma de Mallorca

723/1339

2.10 h

Split

207/383

0.50 h

Rhodos

947/1753

2.30 h

Stockholm

910/1685

2.35 h

Samos

823/1524

2.10 h

Tirana

474/878

1.14 h

Santorini

836/1548

2.15 h

Toulon

510/945

1.40 h

Sharm el Sheikh

1505/2787

3.45 h

Vienna

153/283

0.30 h

Skiatos

632/1170

1.50 h

Zürich

334/619

0.56 h

Thassos (Kavala)

563/1043

1.45 h

Warsaw

463/859

1.35 h

Tel Aviv

1286/2382

2.57 h

Thessaloniki

571/1057

1.24 h

Zakinthos

632/1170

1.50h

Vienna - Frankfurt

358/663

1.10 h

Brussels

931/1706

2.35 h

Copenhagen

1065/1972

3.05 h

Duesseldorf

924/1711

2.40 h

Frankfurt

930/1722

2.50 h

Munich

646/1196

2.00 h

Paris

981/1817

2.40 h

2.35 h

Iz/from PRIŠTINA

Adria Airways has used the map of Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.


Adria Airways

{ Adria Airways }

Flota/Fleet Airbus A319 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

2 33.84 m 11.76 m 34.10 m 900 km/h 11 700 m 6 650 km 135

Airbus A320 2 37.57 m 11.75 m 31.10 m 900 km/h 11 700 m 3 890 km 162/180

Canadair Regional Jet 900 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

4 32.50 m 7.57 m 23.20 m 882 km/h 12 496 m 3 600 km 86

Canadair Regional Jet 200 LR Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

6 26.77 m 6.22 m 21.21 m 860 km/h 12 496 m 3 285 km 48/50

Ilustracije: Miha Žnidar

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Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity


How we built bridges with butterflies. How we built bridges with butterflies.

Impossible you might think, but not when you bring the right global organisations together. Irina Bokova is the Director- General of UNESCO, who met with the Star Alliance network representatives in 2001 to create the Biosphere Connections partnership. This environmental initiative linked UNESCO’s network of biosphere reserves with the International Union Impossible you might think,and butthe notRamsar when you bring for Conservation of Nature Convention theWetlands right global organisations together. Irina Bokova on to conserve some of the world’s most is the DirectorGeneral who met with unique locations. Being of theUNESCO, largest airline network, the Star Alliance representatives in 2001 to Star Alliance wasnetwork the natural partner for this initiative create the Biosphere Connections partnership. as its members were able to donate flights to This environmental initiative UNESCO’s network scientists, field workers and linked educators involved in of biosphere reserves with the International Union projects all over the world. for Conservation of Nature and the Ramsar Convention TheWetlands Amani Nature Reserve in Tanzania, where most the on to conserve some of the world’s Amani Butterfly project created, was one such unique locations. Being was the largest airline network, project. This small scheme encouraged people Star Alliance was the natural partner forlocal this initiative to breed butterflies for exhibition around the world, as its members were able to donate flights to helping them toworkers earn an and income from the forest in scientists, field educators involved far beyond without exploiting its projects all their over expectations, the world. resources. It’s amazing how a few small butterflies The Nature Reserve in Tanzania, haveAmani managed to build bridges betweenwhere local the Amani was created, was one such people Butterfly and theirproject environment. project. This small scheme encouraged local people Watch this story andfor four others that were to breed butterflies exhibition around the world, made inthem partnership National Geographic helping to earn with an income from the forest at staralliance.com far beyond their expectations, without exploiting its resources. It’s amazing how a few small butterflies have managedgreat to build bridges between local Another example people and their environment.

of global collaboration.

Watch this story and four others that were made in partnership with National Geographic at staralliance.com

Another great example of global collaboration.


{ Adria Dobrodošli v letalu AdrieAirways Airways} Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med letom in po pristanku.

Pred poletom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.

Nakup vozovnice prek spleta

Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonih Vsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, da si lahko na svojem mobilnem brskalniku nastavijo našo mobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjem kod poskenirajo QR kodo. Če skenerja nimajo, si ga lahko naložijo na povezavi http://www.i-nigma. com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdejo v iStore. Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu, informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah. Poleg tega pa na tej strani še lahko najdejo: vodič za potnike, turistični vodnik, naše kontakte ter različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanja poslovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanja milj v klubu Miles&More. Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter “checkmytrip”, kjer lahko preverijo svoje potovanje.

Web Check-in

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V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web checkin je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.

Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU

Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinih spletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.

Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.

Potnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajo s temi živili. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.

Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.

Varnostna pravila Evropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100


{ Adria Airways } mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače; juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočih in trdnih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni kupon, ali pa na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU). Če ste tekočine kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. (Če na letališču EU presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpirajte pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču ali na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.) Če imate kakršnekoli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete stevardeso. V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do katerega prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa.

Alkohol na letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

Po pristanku ( 121 )

Med letom Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite. Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom. Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje sopotnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.

Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka + 386 (0 ) 25 94 339.

Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi z elektromagnetnimi valovi lahko motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, kot so prenosni računalniki, CD in DVD predvajalniki ter žepni kalkulatorji, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.

Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Center za stike s potniki V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih, pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet. Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

Najemi avtomobilov in hoteli Na Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihka Rent-a-car in Hoteli, ki vam omogočata najugodnejše najeme vozil in rezervacije hotelskih namestitev. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si in poiščite željeni zavihek. Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh kontinentih, od tistih z eno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih verig ter najemi vozil na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po celem svetu.


{ Adria Airways } Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landing.

Before take-off Economy and business class The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900. A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions.

Online ticketing

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The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria's website at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.

Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.

check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.

Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website. More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.

Carry-on luggage For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.

Adria Airways on mobile phones To all smartphone users – we would like to inform you that you can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobile browser or scan your QR code with the code scanner. If you do not have a code scanner, you can download it by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhone users can find this in the iStore. The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables, destinations and weather conditions. In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, our contact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airport business lounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club. Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip” where you can check information on your trip.

Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web

EU airport security rules In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and


{ Adria Airways } oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency. You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage; • carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

During the flight

with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Comfort and health For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary. The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort. In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated.

Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

After landing Delayed, lost and damaged luggage Safety information Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observe safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment.

Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games

If problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)

Passenger Relations Centre Adria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice. Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

Rent-a-cars and hotels We have recently added two tabs to Adria's website that enables you to book a rent-a-car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si, and click on the desired tab. Choose from among tens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigious international hotel chains. Budget Rent-a-Car Slovenia offers Adria Airways customers the best deals on car rental in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

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Adria Airways

Ostale storitve/Other services

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Prevoz tovora Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku. Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti. ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora, telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30, e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.si

Cargo The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery. Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

Zaposlene v družbi Adria Tehnika odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier. Več informacij na spletni strani www.adriatehnika.com.

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Adria Tehnika maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how deriving from more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas, Airbus and Bombardier aircraft. For more information visit www.adriatehnika.com.

Čarterski prevozi

Charters

Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in z vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si

In addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si


njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da poteka dogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance lahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus™«, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.

Official events carrier

V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 39 EUR (DDV je vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja. Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite e-mail na naslov: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41 604 116. Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina. Več o ponudbi preberite na spletni strani www.adrialetalskasola.si.

As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Flight School

Avio taxi - Panoramski leti

Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.

Z letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s športnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih letališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. št. pilota).

Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.

In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 39 euros (VAT included). To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41 604 116. Booking essential. Payment in advance. For more information visit www.adrialetalskasola.si.

Uradni prevoznik dogodkov Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke, tako da postanemo

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flights Our Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airports in neighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot)

Klubi zvestobe/Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club-Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles&More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles&More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles&More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles&More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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Star Alliance

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Star Alliance partnerstvo

Star Alliance partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 49-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja. Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.000 leti dnevno povezujejo 1160 destinacij v 181 državah. Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Adria Airways has more than 49 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world's largest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a full member in January 2010. Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,000 flights daily serving 1,160 destinations in 181 countries. Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Biosferne povezave Star Alliance ima novo kampanjo blagovne znamke, v kateri predstavlja svojo pobudo »Biosferne povezave«. Kampanja poteka od marca do junija in vključuje tiskane oglase, filme, TV-oddaje, spletno oglaševanje, družbene medije in komunikacijske poti članic. Pobuda Biosferne povezave je bila ustanovljena leta 2006 in podpira enega od glavnih načel združenja Star Alliance omogočiti potnikom potovanja po vsem svetu, v tem primeru znanstvenikom, raziskovalcem in sodelujočim v projektu. Sedanja kampanja je bila pripravljena v sodelovanju z National Geographic, izpostavlja pa pet mednarodnih projektov: Arhipelag Abrolhos v Braziliji, Laguna Chilika v Indiji, tropski deževni gozd Vzhodna Usambara v Tanzaniji, Hagia Sophia v Istanbulu v Turčiji in Vrnitev sivega volka v Narodni park Yellowstone v ZDA. Star Alliance posreduje vsebine po najpogosteje obiskanih poteh in poleg tega tudi sprašuje ljudi o njihovem mnenju o posameznih projektih. Projekte je mogoče oceniti na strani www.staralliance.com, novih straneh Star Alliancea na Facebooku (www.facebook.com/staralliance) in YouTubu (http:// www.youtube.com/user/staralliancenetwork) ter na spletni strani National Geographic. V kampanji bo po svojih komunikacijskih poteh sodelovalo tudi 27 letalskih prevoznikov, ki so člani združenja Star Alliance.

Biosphere Connections Star Alliance has launched its new brand campaign featuring the Alliance’s “Biosphere Connections” initiative. The campaign runs from March through to June and includes print advertising, films, TV, online, social media and member airline communication channels. Biosphere Connections was established in 2006 and underpins one of Star Alliance’s founding principles - connecting people from all corners of the globe by facilitating world-wide travel. Through this global cooperation, the respective organisations receive travel support from Star Alliance member carriers to foster the knowledge exchange between scientists, researchers and project workers. The current campaign, produced in association with National Geographic, highlights five international projects which have benefited from this support: Abrolhos Archipelago in Brazil, Chilika Lagoon in India, East Usambara tropical rainforest in Tanzania, the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey and the reintroduction of the Grey Wolf to the Yellowstone National Park in the USA. Making the fullest use of the social media environment, Star Alliance is not only sharing content in the most commonly frequented channels, but is also asking people for their opinions on the various projects. These can be rated at www.staralliance.com, the newly launched Star Alliance Facebook (www.facebook.com/staralliance) and YouTube pages (http://www.youtube.com/user/ staralliancenetwork) as well as through the National Geographic website itself. The 27 Star Alliance member airlines will also be featuring the new campaign in their own communication channels.


Dobrodošli v Miles & More Welcome to Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

One more reason for flying Adria Airways

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

Adria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routes are included in this network.

Prijava v klub

Club registration

V klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na naših spletnih straneh.

You can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at our website, www.adria.si.

Zbiranje milj

Collecting miles

Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo. Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr. Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use the Diners Club-Adria charge card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additional benefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on. Miles are valid for three years.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

Using miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Članske kartice Z včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.

Membership cards You become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member! Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnic in drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN številko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website at www.adria.si. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

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Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije Ticket Offices and Booking Klicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010 Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00 w w w. a d r i a . s i Adria Airways Zgornji Brnik 130h 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom Tel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices:

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LJUBLJANA Gosposvetska 6 1000 Ljubljana Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910 Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668 E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.si Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si AMSTERDAM Adria Airways, Netherlands P.O. Box 75644 1118 ZR Schiphol Triport Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.si Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Globeground Ticketing Desk Terminal 3, opposite check-in row 20 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.si ATHENS Adria Airways, General Sales Agent K.G. KOMPAS GREECE, 572 Vouliagmenis Ave & Karaiskaki, 164 51 Athina Argiroupoli Tel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263, Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288, E-mail: adr.athens@adria.si BANJALUKA Bosnia and Herzegovina SKY SRPSKA Tel.: +397 (0)51 220 330 Mobile: +387 (0)65 321 817 E-mail: office@sky srpska.aero BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

BELGRADE Adria Airways Representative Office OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.belgrade@adria.si

KIEV General Sales Agent: AVIAREPS town office Chervonoarmijska st. 9/2 Office number 2 01004 Kiev, Ukraine Tel.: +38 044 287 07 47 Fax: +38 044 490 65 04 E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.com

PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air International Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201 Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337

Adria Airways Borispol International Airport Ticketing agent: Aquavita Tel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50 Fax: +38 044 230 00 48 E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.si

Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

LONDON, MANCHESTER, DUBLIN Adria Airways - London Gatwick Airport Ticketing Agent: Skybreak North Terminal, Zone A, Ticket Desk Tel.: +44 (0) 1293 507 182 Fax: +44 (0) 1293 507 144 Reservations: Tel: +44 (0) 1293 555 707 E-mail: info@adria.si

PRISTINA Adria representative office – town office Pal Palucij 3, 38000 Pristina Tel.: +381 (0)38 54 34 11 Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 54 32 85 E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si

COPENHAGEN Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722 ISTANBUL Adria Airways General Sales Agent Ordu Cad No. 206/1 34470 Laleli, Istanbul Tel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232 Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 113 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport Ticket office Bohemia 2nd floor of terminal F Ticketing +7 903 5613645, e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru, fax +7 495 578 8197 Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395, e-mail: svokkjp@adria.si MUNICH Prosimo, obrnite se na predstavništvo v Frankfurtu. Please contact our office in Frankfurt. PARIS Adria Airways 94 rue Saint Lazare 75009 Paris Stopnišče A, II. nadstropje Staircase A, 2nd floor Tel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67 E-mail: adr.paris@adria.si

Ticket issue at the airport Tel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Mobile: +377 44 501 241 SARAJEVO Adria Airways Representative and Information Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adria@bih.net.ba Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si SKOPJE Adria Airways General Sales Agent AAM dooel Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 Skopje Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje Airport Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133 STOCKHOLM Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778 Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778 Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778 E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.si

TEL AVIV Adria Airways Mirus Services (1996) Ltd. General Sales Agent 8 Mendele Str. Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895 Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022 TIRANA Adria Airways Albania Europian Trade Center Street bajram Curri No. 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si VIENNA Reservations and purchase Adria Airways Station A-1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 (1) 700 736 913 Fax: +43 (1) 700 736 914 E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.si WARSAW Adria Airways, General Sales Agent GLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o. Marszalkowska St. 28, office number 1U-35 Warsaw 00-576 Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20 Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24 Mobile: +48 696 49 14 77  E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.si www.globairgroup.com ZAGREB Adria Airways Praška 9 10000 Zagreb Tel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016 Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008 E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si ZÜRICH Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine, junij - julij 2011  

Free copy of Adria Airways Magazine for passengers. About Adria Airways, travel, culture, sport, events....

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