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tartaric acid, as well as Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Candida albicans; wild, naturally occurring yeasts found in grapes. Scientists dated the find at 5400 B.C. A team led by McGovern also discovered evidence of a fermented beverage made from hawthorn fruit, wild grape, honey, and rice, dating back 9,000 years in the Neolithic village of Jiahu in Northern China. Yes, that is a nine with three zeroes, referring to a site that also yielded the earliest examples of Chinese pottery, musical instruments, and domesticated rice farms. In forward progression, man continued manipulating, tasting, and enjoying the results of nature’s chemical process of fermentation, sans chemical pesticides and fertilizers commonly used today. By no means, however, should it be interpreted that early distillers and winemakers were content to live with whatever consequences nature delivered. Nature, it turns out, is quite thorough in balancing the odds, providing yin to the yang, deterrent to the pest, through her own devices. Copper, sulfur, lime, nicotine, salt and ash have all taken their turns to discourage pests in the vineyard and grainfield, as early growers experimented with ways to improve their lot. Such pesticide applications to agricultural products, including wine grapes, is believed to have been practiced by the Romans as early as 100 BC. Almost as ancient as the tradition of farming, then, the need to control the agricultural arena runs a parallel track throughout history up until a very modern era of laboratory discovery. As chemical laboratories developed more sophisticated methods, commercial pesticides, herbicides and insecticides poured from the 1940s into the 1960s, touting high yields and predictable pest control. It was a good run with many banner years, but as some say, mother nature bats last, and she owns the field. Perhaps, in some views, man’s manipulated chemistry did its job too well. Perhaps, in the case of some chemicals that later proved toxic or carcinogenic research should have explored the expanding ripples from some of the new agricultural chemical applications in the long view. Perhaps. But successful vineyards and distilleries around the globe continue to embrace the judicious use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers, practicing “conventional” agriculture that emphasizes high yield and labor efficiency. Aimed at delivery of acceptable products that maintain low price points while maximizing profits, it is a business model that has proven itself. The question is, how do those chemicals affect the end products? Many would argue positively, as yields are maximized and costs minimized. There are interesting reasons behind wines and spirits trending to biodynamic, sustainable, and organic methods, however, eschewing synthetic chemistry in favor of birds, bugs, natural predators and protectors. Biodynamic, organic and sustainable methods do something that conventional methods do not: they replenish the soil. They make it come alive again, with microorganisms and bugs, with bacteria and botrytis, taking the good with the bad. Those who have made the switch from conventional to more natural methods often find a plethora of benefits. Winemakers and distillers are attached at the hip to nature, with the integrity of their crops heavily invested in the personality of the season. 80 Upscale Living Magazine |
Issue 27
Through a memorandum of understanding between man and nature, the pair can get along famously, producing healthy grapes with deep roots and sweet grains with hearty resistance. Mostly, however, viticulturists and distillers move toward natural methods to improve quality. They find improved soils produce more flavorful harvests. Others consider the health risks that may be associated with some chemical agricultural applications an unacceptable consequence, with many chemical compounds remaining under the undecided thumb of research. Many winemakers and distillers straddle the line between conventional and organic or biodynamic, instead seeking a sustainable balance hovering in between certified organic and conventional. They choose to practice chosen natural methods simply because they feel it is the right thing to do. While most that have gone the natural route are recent converts within the past two or three decades, there are some exceptions. Consider Domaine des Vignes du Maynes, a French family vineyard that has been growing grapes and making wines organically since 950 AD. As well, craft distilleries are soaring into production in the U.S., going from just a handful at the turn of the century to over 230 in 2011, with 2012 numbers poised to best that. Trend, fad, or sea change, if you haven’t already, it is likely you will meet face to face with an organic drink someday soon. Whether it becomes your preference is all a matter of personal taste. And, in wine and spirits, as in art, it is best if you buy what you like.