A C C E N T/ T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S SPRING/SUMMER 2015
FOR MOMS, DADS AND GRADS WHY YOU SHOULD WORK WITH A
TRUE JEWELER CATCHING UP WITH
Christopher Designs Crisscut
c r i ss c u t e m er a l d by
c h r i s t o p h er
L’Amour Crisscut® is a trademark used under license from Christopher Designs. Use of L’Amour Crisscut® trademark is only allowed by authorized retailers.
WELCOME! Welcome to our spring issue of Accent magazine. We’ve used this issue to really tell our story—of what it means to be a True Jeweler in a sea of jewelry stores. It’s a subject that’s important to us, so throughout the magazine we’ve tried to help you understand why we do the things we do, and why they make us different. This issue also features a special gift-giving section for all your spring occasions. It’s just a small sample of what we offer, and of course we’d love to help you, personally, ﬁnd the perfect gift for your loved one. And while you’re here, if you’d like to know more about what it means to be a True Jeweler, just ask!
Richard Van Der Dys, Store Director
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER
STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER
1 Welcome Letter MANAGING EDITOR
4 Our Reason for Being
8 Caring for the Community: Angel Reach 10 Who We Are: Our Service Department 12 Gifts: From the Heart
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS
14 How We Choose the Jewelry & Timepieces We Carry
CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
16 Spring Gifts PRODUCTION MANAGER
20 Scene: Haute Looks on the Red Carpet
22 Why Choose a True Jeweler for Fashion? PRESIDENT AND CEO
26 Spotted: As Seen On…
28 Why Choose a True Jeweler for a Milestone Occasion?
CHAIRMAN AND COO
30 Trends: The New Heirlooms
32 Profile: Christopher Designs Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
34 Diamonds: De Beers & Forevermark depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2015.
36 Experts: All About Bridal Rings Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,
40 Collecting: Time to Invest 42 Why Choose a True Jeweler for Service?
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50 Why Choose a True Jeweler When it’s Time to Sell Your Jewelry? 52 Culture: Fashion Facelift
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38 Why Choose a True Jeweler for Your Timepiece?
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our reason for being
Why choose a
We believe that to be considered a True Jeweler, you have to be a creator of jewelry and not just a reseller. A True Jeweler has expertise in all aspects of jewelry manufacturing: from the design, to choosing the materials and sourcing the goods, to the crafting of the piece through final assembly. At Donoho’s Jewellers, every part of that process is done in-house by a team of craftsmen with many years of experience in the jewelry industry. That experience informs everything else we do, from choosing the brands we represent to conducting appraisals and valuations. So when you’re looking for the perfect piece of jewelry, there’s nobody who can serve you better than Donoho’s Jewellers. RICHARD VAN DER DYS STORE DIRECTOR DONOHO’S JEWELLERS
Four Exceptional Jewelers and a Collection of the World’s Best Brands, All Under One Umbrella.
Columbus, Ohio www.diamondcellar.com
The Woodlands, Texas www.donohos.com
Tulsa, Oklahoma www.brucegweber.com
Columbus, Ohio www.STORE5a.com
DIAMOND CELLAR HOLDINGS is a family of four of the finest jewelers in the United States. Each store has its own unique heritage, but together they represent almost 150 years of history in the jewelry business. We’ve built our reputation on excellent service, fine craftsmanship and unwavering integrity. That’s why the world’s top jewelry and watch brands trust us. And so can you. A. Jaffe Alex Woo Assael Pearls Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Bovet Breitling Carla Amorim Cartier Charles Krypell Christian Bauer Christine Cooper Hill Christopher Designs Corum David Yurman Denise Robergé
Elizabeth Locke Forevermark Girard Perregaux Goldman Diana Graf von Faber-Castell Hermes Ippolita Ivanka Trump Jaeger-LeCoultre JB Star John Hardy Jonathan Birnbach Kwiat Lagos Lumninox
Marco Bicego Memoire Michael Bondanza Michele Mikimoto Montegrappa officine panerai Orbita Patek Philippe Penny Preville Pesavento Precision Set Raymond Weil Ritani Robert Procop
Roberto Coin Roberto Coin Cento Rolex Rustic Cuff Scott Kay Sterling & Bridal Soho Stephen Webster SUWA Swiss Army Tacori Tag Heuer Tara Pearls Tudor Tuum William Henry Studio
donoho’s jewellers events
Holiday Gala (top) Always a great start to the holiday season, Donoho’s Holiday Gala brings our clients together with lots of beautiful jewelry and timepieces as well as representatives and designers from the brands. Special thanks to Houston Modern Luxury for making the event sparkle even more! Hailey Elementary Auction (left) Bernadene Scott Davis, a Donoho’s client and teacher at Hailey Elementary, poses with the Brenda Starr doll she outfitted for the auction, in a French silk gown, pearls, Swarovski crystals and a diamond necklace, courtesy of Donoho’s. Watch Dinner (right and below) We were proud to welcome representatives from some of the finest Swiss watch brands to a special event in October. They enlightened our guests on the Swiss watch industry as well as their latest creations.
caring for the community
Angel Reach Enhancing young lives and improving foster care outcomes. BY KATE LIEBERS
resources because they have turned 18 years old, but who are still very much in need of help. These young adults typically get stuck in a cycle of poverty and risky behaviors, and this lifestyle often leads to homelessness, incarceration, drug addiction, abusive relationships, unexpected pregnancies or human trafficking. Every year, more than 250 youths in Child Protective Services “age out” of the program. Angel Reach addresses these young people by providing living assistance, case management, employment training, educational services, transportation services and individual development programs. In addition to the transitional services, Angel Reach has a service speciﬁc to aged-out foster youth facing motherhood. Within one year of losing their eligibility to receive government services, 60 percent of young women become pregnant or have a child. Their children have a 70 percent chance of ending up in CPS care themselves, continuing the cycle of abuse and neglect. Angel Reach hopes to reverse this trend by providing these young mothers and their children with living assistance, parenting classes and child care. Through partnerships with local churches, ministries and agencies, Angel Reach is committed to giving local youth the sense of security and belonging they deserve, and to help them rise above their circumstances.
onoho’s Jewellers is proud to support Angel Reach, an organization that provides better futures for hundreds of Houston-area youth in foster care. “Angel Reach is such an important organization for so many youth in the Houston area, and Donoho’s is very happy to support their efforts,” says Richard Van Der Dys, Donoho’s Jewellers store director. This faith-based, non-proﬁt organization reaches out to three types of clients: caregiving relatives of children who were removed from abusive situations, foster children who are too old to receive government care services, and young mothers who were foster children themselves. Angel Reach began in 2004 as a way to assist the relatives of children who were removed from unsafe homes. Instead of immediately directing these children into unfamiliar foster families, Child Protective Services routinely attempts to place children in the care of local relatives. Currently, of the 900 Montgomery County children who are in Child Protective Services, 600 have been placed in homes of foster relatives (known as “kinship care”). By supporting these kinship placements, Angel Reach aims to minimize the chance that the child will have to move into another home—a traumatic situation with life-long effects. In 2011, Angel Reach expanded its services to “aged-out” foster youth—those who no longer receive government-provided support and
who we are
SERVICE BY CALEB HUNT
or a True Jeweler like Donoho’s, reputation is built on a culture of service. It begins at the goldsmith bench and extends all the way through the organization. Building a relationship with our clients is integral to overall success. Trust is often—if not always—the cornerstone of that relationship. But it’s not easily earned. Donoho’s Jewellers holds a trump card. Not only do we have some of the best designer goldsmiths in the country, but watchmakers as well. This rare combination of knowledge and expertise is a distinct luxury for our customers. And it extends to the sales ﬂoor. “Our two master jewelers are available six days a week, doing minor repairs, such as ring sizing and soldering, to complete custom design just for you,” Courtney West, assistant store director, says. “Our two certiﬁed watchmakers are also available six days a week to do everything from minor watch repairs, such as battery replacement, to complete movement over-
hauls. They give us, as a sales staff, a real advantage when we’re working with our clients. We have the whole package, from offering the best designer jewelry and timepieces to custom design and after-the-sale service.” Donoho’s Jewellers has been designing irresistible jewelry and timepieces for over 36 years. Our success can be summed up in three words: luxury, integrity and family. “Family is at the core of what we do,” West says. “We, as a team here at the store, are a family and enjoy being part of our clients’ extended [families], sharing life’s most special occasions with them.” Building rapport is about creating a connection with clients. Donoho’s Jewellers’ sense of family helps us to form fruitful, long-lasting relationships. Trust is the glue. “Our integrity has enabled us to grow to be among the top jewelers in the country,” West says. “Our clients appreciate the honesty and fairness with which we treat every person.” Perhaps the most effective way to succeed in today’s competitive retail environment, oddly enough, is by giving back. Donoho’s Jewellers is always concerned about the welfare and happiness of our community and we seek to structure our business philosophy to promote unity and harmony. Whether hosting winter-themed holiday parties for clients or supporting local schools, hospitals and nonproﬁt organizations, Donoho’s Jewellers ﬁnds great joy in helping others. “Giving back to our community,” West says, “is a big part of our DNA.”
from the HEART Notable moms on Mother’s Day, push presents and their most memorable jewelry gifts. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE & JULIANNE PEPITONE
ROSIE POPE “I had my daughter, Vivienne, on Mother’s Day a couple of years ago. I would have to say she is my most memorable Mother’s Day gift! This year I am hoping for jewelry. Being a mom of four and running a business, I don’t have too much time to get ready in the morning. But with jewelry, I can throw earrings and bracelets on and feel a little more put together. “My favorites are four bracelets my children gave me with their names written on each one. The best part about them: my oldest wrote all the names out and they stamped each into the metal, all in his handwriting. It was a special gift because it was a way of the kids welcoming our youngest, Bridget.”
HEIDI KLUM “I’m always loving to be surprised. My kids do beautiful art; we have an art teacher who comes to our house every week and guides them. They’ve done beautiful clay pots that they designed and painted. Last Mother’s Day my kids painted on canvases. I love art, so they’re always making something beautiful for me. So that’s always, for me, the best. I don’t want them to go and buy something; I’d rather they make something for me.”
IVANKA TRUMP “My first Mother’s Day was obviously memorable, but last year was my favorite. Arabella was old enough that we could really spend the day together doing our favorite ‘girl things.’ It was also my first Mother’s Day with two kids. It felt so complete. “I have a special place in my heart for handmade gifts. I have Arabella’s artwork in my office and am always excited to add to my collection. That said, I think the best gift would simply be the day spent with my family—no phones, no internet, no distractions!—making breakfast, then exploring the city together. “I didn’t get ‘push presents’ when my children were born—the children are the best gifts I could ever receive! My husband did give Arabella a necklace when she was born and I keep it for her. She knows when she is old enough it’s hers, and until then, I always ask her before I borrow it! “The best jewelry I ever received was my engagement ring. It was purchased from my collection, which was a very supportive—and smart—move on my husband’s part.”
ÂŠ 2015 John Hardy Limited
One of a kind. One at a time. Each by hand.
bringing it home
How We Choose
THE JEWELRY &TIMEPIECES WE CARRY Choosing the jewelry and timepieces we’ll offer at Donoho’s Jewellers is not something we take lightly. We travel the globe, attending the largest jewelry shows in the world, searching out designers and brands that hold the same values we do. We look for a combination of exceptional design, excellent craftsmanship and solid value, and we only represent designers who exhibit these traits. We spend years developing relationships with the brands. Oftentimes that means we can introduce our clients to some of the most famous names in the business, and we can offer one-of-akind or unusual pieces you won’t see anywhere else.
Designer Marco Bicego
Designer Charles Krypell
Richard Van Der Dys, store director of Donoho’s Jewellers, at JCK in Las Vegas.
Create the perfect gift-giving moment.
Penny Preville pavé diamond bangle $6,185 Lagos dome ring $395
From top: Ippolita turquoise and diamond ring $795 Scott Kay rose gold diamond eternity band $2,530 David Yurman diamond pavé ring $895 Penny Preville diamond ear climbers $1,270 Rahaminov rose gold pavé diamond disc earrings $2,500
Lagos link necklace $925 Hermès H Hour watch $2,525
Donoho’s mother’s rings, starting at $1,000 Donoho’s rondelle mother’s bracelet (bracelet only) $295 Encore slides for mother’s bracelet, starting at $395 Birthstone enhancers with diamond halos starting at $395
Michael Bondanza Venti cuff links $3,800 David Yurman link necklace $525 Tourbillion movement cuff links $500
David Yurman Frontier knife $1,850
Stephen Webster Highwayman band $1,095 David Yurman Petrus bracelet $950 David Yurman forged carbon ring $575
Faber-Castell perfect pencil design brown gift set $45 Faber-Castell Ondoro wood pen $140
Breitling Super Avenger II stainless steel watch $5,835 Cartier Tank Solo stainless steel watch $3,950
Ippolita blue topaz pendant $795 David Yurman initial pendant $650 Ippolita amethyst pendant $650
Breitling Colt Auto steel watch $3,525 Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch with black rotary bezel $1,400
Mikimoto Akoya pearl necklace $1,850 Donohoâ€™s Nuvola diamond studs $3,650 Donohoâ€™s Nuvola diamond pendant $1,950
Charles Krypell "I Love You" bangles $330 each Ippolita turqouise and diamond ring $595 Scott Kay amethyst ring $781 David Yurman Wheaton morganite and diamond ring $700
wore a Harry Kotlar fancy canary yellow diamond ring to the Grammys.
wore a David Yurman Petite PavĂŠ pinky ring to the Elle Women in Hollywood event.
wore a David Yurman Labyrinth gold dome ring to the Elle Women in Hollywood event.
HAUTE LOOKS ON 1
wore a Forevermark Cluster Shield diamond ring to an Art Basel party in Miami.
wore a Forevermark Exceptional Diamond Jewelry by Premier Gem ring to the Emmys.
wore a Forevermark by Maria Canale Aster Collection diamond ring to the Emmys.
THE RED CARPET Take a cue from these decorated digits and ring in spring! BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
Why choose a True Jeweler
When it comes to providing the right fashions, a jeweler must be able to do three things: understand the global and local trends; choose the designers who best represent those trends; and make sure their pieces are produced with quality materials to be durable and hold the integrity of the design. At Donohoâ€™s Jewellers, we use our experience and expertise to do all that, while still providing the very best value.
From top: Stephen Webster Lady Stardust bracelet $26,000 Stephen Webster Lady Stardust Opalescent Ring $9,000 Stephen Webster Magnipheasant diamond bracelet $25,000 Stephen Webster Lady Stardust multistone earrings $12,000 Stephen Webster Magnipheasant earclimbers $9,500 On model: Penny Preville diamond starburst studs $3,585 Penny Preville diamond bar pendant $2,685 Penny Preville triangular diamond bar pendant $1,715
fashion From top: Roberto Coin rose gold and diamond collar $14,250 Roberto Coin mother-of-pearl cocktail ring $3,200 Roberto Coin mother-of-pearl and diamond earrings $6,400 Tara & Sons Inc. pearl and diamond bracelet $6,369 Christopher Designs morganite and diamond ring $8,250
The functional yet minimal décor for a smooth, natural move as we transition into Spring.
» Visit our showroom or call to make an appointment with one of our design experts.
Your entry is your home’s first impression.
HENREDON • LILLIAN AUGUST • LEE • HICKORY WHITE • CENTURY • THEODORE ALEXANDER VISUAL COMFORT LIGHTING • LANE VENTURE OUTDOOR • VANGUARD • DONNA’S PRIVATE COLLECTION
Idina Menzel wears Forevermark during a performance at Dick Clark’s New Year’s Rockin’ Eve with Ryan Seacrest.
As Seen On... Our favorite stars share a love for our favorite brands!
Sarah Jessica Parker wears Mikimoto at the Great American Songbook Gala.
Taraji P. Henson wears Tacori at the 46th Annual NAACP Image Awards.
Estelle wears David Yurman during a performance at the New Yorkers1 for Children Fall Gala.
IDINA MENZEL COURTESY OF DOMAIN LA; SARAH JESSICA PARKER BY PATRICK MCMULLAN COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO; TARAJI P. HENSON COURTESY OF MICHELLE MARIE PR
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
COURTESY OF D’ORAZIO & ASSOCIATES
Cara Delevingne wears John Hardy at the Serpentine Gala Summer Party. Jennifer Lopez wears Harry Kotlar during an appearance on Ellen.
Hillary Clinton wears Marco Bicego at the Democratic Convention.
Kate Walsh wears Roberto Coin at The Hollywood Reporter’s Women In Entertainment: Power 100 Breakfast. 2
Why choose a True Jeweler
FOR A MILESTONE OCCASION?
When itâ€™s time to celebrate a milestone, the piece of jewelry has to represent the occasion perfectly. As a True Jeweler, we work to develop a relationship with you, to find out what exactly the moment means to you and your loved one. Then we tailor the piece to the moment. The ultimate goal is to match the jewelry to the feeling youâ€™re trying to convey. To do that takes deep understanding of gemstones, metals and design.When it comes to a milestone gift, we leave nothing to chance.
Clockwise from top: Nova platinum diamond bracelet $83,525 Christopher Designs Crisscut diamond band $31,023 Christopher Designs Crisscut diamond ring $109,409 Diamond Cellar emerald and diamond ring $95,130 Sapphire and diamond earrings $12,500 Christopher Designs Crisscut diamond earrings $36,740 Rahaminov diamond ďŹ‚ower ring $79,200 PavĂŠ diamond bracelet $52,000
the new heirlooms
Today’s jewelry merges the best of past and present.
BY BETH BERNSTEIN
When considering buying fine jewelry, a woman should ask two important questions before making a purchase: Will the styles endure or at least make a comeback? And will they retain their intrinsic value? Renowned jewelry houses and savvy independent designers ask themselves these same questions before jumping on a new trend direction. For spring/summer 2015, the hottest jewelry styles possess these qualities and are part of an evolving trend we’ll call “The New Heirlooms.” This is jewelry that recalls the past with vintage silhouettes or antique details, but has been reworked with a current sensibility to appeal to today’s modern woman.
GO FOR THE GOLD
BRING ON THE BLING At the same time, we’re witnessing a return to Art Deco-inspired long, linear and ultra-clean shapes, many with fluidity of movement. These appear in white gold and feature varying cuts of diamonds, reminiscent of Cartier in the ’20s and ’30s. Cabochon and sugar loaf cuts of emeralds, sapphires, spinels and rubies are also trending. The cuts are generally set in white gold or platinum and featured in flexible bracelets, large stone rings, lariat necklaces and tassel earrings, which flow and swing when a woman turns her head. Arm bracelets and hand and hair jewelry are renewing this category with the youthful spirit it needs to inspire a new generation of fine jewelry devotees.
FROM TOP: ROBERTO COIN, MARCO BICEGO, IVANKA TRUMP, PENNY PREVILLE
At the auction and collector level, signed pieces by storied design houses (think Boucheron, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels) have been fetching record prices. Inspired by the renewed demand for bold jewelry, chunky yellow gold styles are back in all of their adorning glory. Retro looks from the ’40s and ’50s, including single bracelets with multiple charms and large, intricately designed links, are back. For a fresh look, they can be stacked with early antique serpent styles that wrap several times around the wrist, or ’70s-style buckle bracelets. Looks popularized in the ’80s by designers such as Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso are being rethought in modern forms: wider-than-wide cuffs, knuckle rings and pendants that dangle at 32” or longer. Large hoop earrings in various oval, marquise, round and square shapes take on an organic feel, while stud earrings, stackable rings and bib necklaces all incorporate movement. Many also sport colored gemstones, which range from more muted varieties of labradorite and moonstone to fancy colored sapphires and various hues of tourmaline. There’s also a return to figurative Art Nouveau shapes with touches of enamel and intriguing color combinations.
POIS MOI COLLECTION
Love on steroids
Diamond cuts so magnificent, they’re patented! BY ERIK DEFRUSCIO
rtist and jewelry designer Christopher Slowinski, known for creating innovative diamond cuts and settings, modestly insists that his best creations have happened by accident. “When I started out cutting diamonds, I was actually lousy at it; it was a mistake that led me to come up with a different arrangement of facets.” Slowinski, a native of Poland with an engineering background, moved to America in 1976 and apprenticed with a diamond cutter in New York City. He started out learning how to set stones, and after two years in the industry he opened a small contracting shop with a friend, doing mostly repairs and custom work. “I didn’t start with special skills but soon learned I had the ability to make a design better than the original—creating a better flow, tweaking the design to individual tastes.” Early in Slowinski’s career, he was sent a ring with princess-cut diamonds that had a few stones missing. “They thought I was a genius and could repair anything,” he recalls. “However, it wasn’t possible for me to save this ring.” From the frustration of not being able to fix it, Slowinski ultimately created his famous invisible setting, filing his first patent in 1991. “It was absolutely perfect. Most other rings had problems with lost stones, but I never lost stones with this setting.” Ultimately opening his own small shop and gradually building a collection, his breakthrough came in 1998 when he created a 77-facet diamond (vs. the generic 48), the first-ever modified step cut, for which he filed his second patent and which fast became a top seller. Ironically, he discovered this Crisscut diamond by mistakenly placing a diamond on the cutter the wrong way. “I messed up the stone but noticed how beautifully the erroneous triangle enhanced the light,” Slowinski explains, ripping and folding a sheet of paper in an attempt to demonstrate how a generic emerald cut becomes something else entirely. “I thought I had something special but I couldn’t get a cutter to make it. Finally, I went to Israel and had it made. It’s still a top seller.” He ultimately used a similar concept on round cuts, which required three years of work and four patents. A unique cut with 109 facets, the Brilliant Crisscut appears round but actually has 12 straight walls and 12 sides, creating the illusion of a scalloped border. Then, as Slowinski recalls, “I broke all the cutting rules,” coming up with yet another new cut where “light bounces off seven times inside the stone before exiting, greatly amplifying the stone’s brilliance.” This amazing diamond design, called L’Amour Crisscut, appears 40 to 50 percent larger than a comparably sized emerald-cut diamond and, as Slowinski puts it, “is so brilliant that it sells itself.”
What’s next for Slowisnski (who works with 60 craftsmen at his two facilities in Manhattan and personally inspects every stone that is cut and every setting cast)? “I think I can finally take a break,” he says, heading off to Europe to show his collection at Baselworld, the most prestigious jewelry show in the industry. A break? We don’t, for a second, believe him….
“FOR ME, TECHNOLOGY IS AS IMPORTANT AS AESTHETICS.” CHRISTOPHER SLOWINSKI, CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS
This is the box
THAT, FOR OVER THIRTY YEARS,
HAS REPRESENTED THE FINEST JEWELRY AND TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD AND THE VERY BEST VALUES AVAILABLE.
AND FOR GENERATION AFTER
GENERATION OF CUSTOMERS, IT’S STILL THE ONE
9590 Six Pines Drive, The Woodlands, Texas 77380
they look for.
HowLong is FOREVER?
De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier talks challenges, long-term prospects and social responsibility. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
“THE PRODUCT WE SELL IS SCARCE AND BECOMING SCARCER.” PHILIPPE MELLIER, DE BEERS
What are the diamond industry’s most pressing challenges and how are you dealing with these? The growth in demand for diamonds will soon outpace supply; supply is forecast to plateau, and then decline after 2020. We are investing heavily in our production capacity: we’ve committed considerable capital to major expansion projects at our existing operations and to developing new deposits. In Botswana, we continue with our hugely important investment at Jwaneng which, we estimate, will deliver over 100 million extra carats from one of the world’s richest diamond mines. In South Africa, an underground project will extend the life of its largest diamond mine to 2044. In Canada, progress continues at one of the largest new developments in the diamond world, and we look forward to receiving the first production within a couple of years. We’ve recently opened a mine in Namibia after two years of development work. Where is this growth in demand coming from? The engine is the U.S., coupled with growing demand from the East as more Indian and Chinese middleclass consumers choose to purchase diamonds. How is the consumer landscape changing? The increasing polarization of wealth means that bridal jewelry and wealthier consumers are driving the U.S. growth today. There has also been a recent increase in consumer preferences for brands, which is why our partnership with Forevermark has been so successful. Generation Y and Millennial consumers, who will provide the oxygen for future U.S. demand for diamond jewelry, are looking for uniqueness and ethical reassurance in the products they buy. The Forevermark brand responds to their need for confidence, trust, quality and excitement. (We recently inscribed our millionth Forevermark diamond!) What responsibility do you feel toward countries whose natural resources you are developing? Our business model is built on partnerships with governments; we are extremely proud of what these partnerships have meant for the economic and social development in these nations. Diamonds represent over three quarters of total export earnings in Botswana and over a quarter of the total in Namibia. Our relationships in these nations are among the world’s most successful public-private partnerships.
FROM TOP: FOREVERMARK BY STEPHEN WEBSTER, FOREVERMARK EXCEPTIONAL DIAMOND JEWELRY BY RAHAMINOV
© FOREVERMARK 2014 – 2015. FOREVERMARK®,
®, T H E D I A M O N D. T H E P R O M I S E .™ A R E T R A D E M A R K S O F T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F CO M PA N I E S .
A TRUE PROMISE WILL NEVER BE BROKEN
Forevermark is part of The De Beers Group of Companies.
All About BRIDAL RINGS
Our magazine’s trend specialist is now wedding expert to the world.
orraine DePasque has a passion for jewelry: she’s been writing about it for most of her career and for many years in this magazine. So her recent appointment as about.com’s first-ever wedding bands and engagement rings expert comes as no surprise. Here, we chat with her about her new position and about the basics of buying bridal rings. Congrats on the new job! We always knew you were an expert… Thank you! About.com has roughly 900 experts, but I’m the first to specialize in engagement rings and wedding bands, which became a separate category on the site this past November. What are some of your favorite topics? I recently wrote about platinum, black diamonds and eco-friendly jewelry. Social responsibility is huge with the bridal demographic: they care about ethical sourcing, reclaimed metals, recycled materials, sustainability, etc. What’s the hottest trend in engagement rings for 2015? White metal is still number one, meaning platinum of course, but also white gold (14K and 18K). Yellow gold has also been trending for the past year or so, and estate jewelry is a growing piece of the business. There’s also more interest in natural colored diamonds (thanks to celebrity preferences) and even other colored gemstones. When Prince William presented Kate with his mother’s sapphire engagement ring, it was all about blue; this year, Pantone’s Color of the Year is Marsala, so rubies— equally as durable as sapphires—should be newly popular. How about diamond cuts: what’s popular now? Round is still the top trending cut: perhaps 80 percent of the business, followed by cushion cuts, followed by squares. But some of the older cuts, especially marquises and pear shapes, are starting to come back. The other continuing trend is halos: everything from a single halo around any cut stone, a multi-halo, or even an intricate floral halo. How are the trends evolving? It’s interesting. I learn a lot about consumer preferences from Pinterest, and when I recently posted two modern engagement rings (both platinum
with round diamond center stones, one tension set), the response was overwhelming. So while the majority of women have been leaning toward classic or retro, there’s a definite trend emerging toward contemporary. Another observation: this generation wants special, even customized, wedding jewelry. I truly believe there’s a special ring for everyone, which is why I love what I do. If there’s a particular way you’d like to customize your ring, talk with your jeweler about it; this is what they do every day and they can offer suggestions on personalization. What about trends in wedding bands? Personally, I like wraps if you plan to wear your band on the same finger as your engagement ring. But I’m seeing more and more women buying a slim band that may or may not match the engagement ring, especially if they plan on wearing that on the right hand. And women are putting other slim bands of all kinds on their jewelry wish lists, so their husband knows exactly what to buy for their first anniversary, birth of their first child, or even a birthday. Then you can stack them all with your wedding band, creating a dramatic right-hand ring! The whole stackable ring fashion look has sparked this trend, and it’s not going away anytime soon. Buying jewelry online is a controversial issue: what’s your opinion? While the internet is okay for research (but don’t believe everything you read!), I’d never suggest buying wedding jewelry online. There are so many elements that go into a ring; if you don’t work with a reputable jeweler, so much could go wrong. I’ve heard horror stories about chipped stones, stones that don’t line up, stones that don’t reflect light, insecure settings. So my best advice is to form a relationship with a trustworthy jeweler, a real person (or family) who’s been around awhile and who stands behind their work. After all, it’s the most important purchase you’ll ever make, a reflection of your personal style, and something you’ll be looking at every day of your life. Don’t risk it! For more information on wedding jewelry, check out engagementrings.about.com or donohos.com/collections/bridal.
FROM LEFT: STEPHEN WEBSTER, FOREVERMARK, STEPHEN WEBSTER, HARRY KOTLAR, TACORI
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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Why choose a True Jeweler
FOR YOUR TIMEPIECE?
In the past, a timepiece was all about function. The more accurate, the better. Today, form and function are equal partners. Craftsmanship and engineering have elevated the watch movement into the realm of art. A True Jeweler can explain the different watch complications like the tourbillion, moon phase, or 40-hour power reserve. Our understanding of the engineering and various functions as well as metals, gemstones and design helps match the right watch to you, the wearer.
Clockwise from top: Breitling Chronomat Raven watch on black alligator strap $9,825 Cartier Tank MC watch on black alligator strap $7,000 Bovet DLC 46mm Saguaro watch on blue alligator strap $27,600 Rolex 39mm Cellini Date watch on black alligator strap $17,700 Girrard Perregaux 44mm Chrono watch with galvanic black index dial $30,200 Girrard Perregaux Vintage XXL watch with moon phase on black alligator strap $16,500
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMTMaster II, 40mm in stainless steel with rotatable black and blue ceramic bezel and Oysterlock bracelet.
Watchmaking history appeals to a new generation. BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY
hilatelists collect stamps and numismatists collect coins, but watch collectors, in the grand scheme of things, are a relatively new breed. Seismic shifts—from pocket watch to mechanical wristwatch to quartz and atomic movements—indicated the fading of each previous technology into obscurity. But by the end of the 1980s, manufacturers realized that there was a market for mechanical wristwatches both as timepiece and work of art. A new generation of consumers was excited by the craftsmanship of traditional horology, and the watch collector was born. Edward Faber, one of the leading experts on vintage watches and founder of the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York, explains, “Before 1930 watches were essentially pocket watches retrofitted to the wrist. With the advent of World War I, huge advances in technology were made in all areas, from automobiles to aviation, and watches soon followed suit. The nuances of jeweling and modern technology enabled watchmakers to integrate features like chronographs and moonphase calendars, and mechanical wristwatches entered their element.” But with the “quartz revolution” came a level of timekeeping accuracy that changed daily life. What began in 1929 with the quartz clock took 40 years to miniaturize, but in a few swift years mechanical watches began to look like they would become obsolete. “We’ve learned in this industry to fear new technologies, and for good reason,” explains Michael Friedman, historian for Audemars Piguet. “What we could accurately call the quartz revolution was known to many as the quartz crisis because it essentially wiped out the industry as we knew it; it took many years to evolve past that. But interestingly, what the quartz era in the 1970s really did was to liberate the watch industry. We’re now in an era of experimentation and expressionism largely because the accuracy problem was solved when the quartz watch debuted.” With smart watch production numbers in the tens of millions, manufacturers like Apple and Samsung are investing in the future of timekeeping. And whether or not smart watches become as ubiquitous as the quartz and mechanical movements before them, increased interest in traditional craftsmanship has secured the future of mechanical watches. “To connect with a timepiece, which may have plus or minus a few seconds per week but is part of horological history, is a strong statement,” insists Faber. “People in their 20s and 30s are looking at vintage Rolexes and IWCs and they’re excited to collect them, they’re excited to buy them. When they buy vintage watches, they’re also buying the stories behind them.”
Patek Philippe Ref. 5170G Men’s Chronograph with pulsometric scale. White gold with silvery white dial. Featuring Caliber CH 29-535 PS Mechanical manually wound movement.
WHAT COLLECTORS LOOK FOR Brand: This is the number-one consideration. Currently Patek Philippe and Rolex are most coveted. Papers and Presentation: Watches with their original papers and boxes in good condition are worth more. Metal: With only a few exceptions, platinum is number one, followed by rose gold, then yellow gold, then steel. Complications: Chronographs, moonphases, tourbillions etc. can increase a watch’s collectability. Rarity: The more mass-produced a watch is, the less desirable it is to a collector.
Why choose a True Jeweler
You can’t think about a True Jeweler without imagining goldsmiths at their benches repairing and creating jewelry. At Donoho’s Jewellers, we have some of the best in the country. But we also understand that your jewelry is an old friend, a constant companion, the voice of someone from your past. That’s why we do all our service in-house, at our own benches. We won’t ship your friend off to a stranger when it needs service. 42
JORDAN MACK MASTER JEWELER DONOHO’S JEWELLERS
Plucked from nature. Choose your color. The colored stone jewelry jewelry collection, collection, Diamond Cellar. exclusively at the Donohoâ€™s Jewellers
Shore restaurant at the Santa Barbara Resort in Nieuwpoort, Curaçao. Below, Chef Heinrich Hortencia.
LIONFISH WITH CARIBBEAN RATATOUILLE AND CHIMICHURRI OIL
Celebrating Curaçao’s Cuisine
Ingredients: 4 whole lionfish, fileted 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into thick slices 1 ripe plantain, diced 1 red tomato, diced 1 eggplant, diced 1 green zucchini, diced 1 yellow zucchini, diced 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 handful curly parsley 2 cups olive oil ¾ cup unsalted butter Sea salt White pepper
Chef Heinrich Hortencia is a Shore winner.
BY SHIRA LEVINE
aute cuisine is not the main reason people travel to the Caribbean. Swimming in the azure waters, snorkeling beside coral reefs and exploring the jungle are the real temptations that lure us to these exotic locales. Except, perhaps, in cosmopolitan Curaçao, where Chef Heinrich Hortencia of the Shore restaurant at the Santa Barbara Resort in Nieuwpoort uses A-list local and imported delicacies in his quest to put the “C” of the ABC Islands on the foodie map. “Everyone recognizes Shore for interesting presentations of ingredients at the fine dining level,” he notes. “I want to change the taste of Curaçao to represent our diversity.” As Hortencia’s recent win on the Food Network show Chopped has proved, he knows how to deliver more than such white tablecloth menu staples as Lobster Thermidor, despite having spent 13 years cooking in Europe. While he initially returned to this colonial island of narrow winding streets and pastel building facades in order to spend time with his mother following his father’s passing, an edible agenda soon emerged: to elevate Curaçaoan cuisine from simple conch fritters to something worth traveling for. Hortencia admits that Curaçao’s steady warm weather and smaller production of crops than he was used to in Europe provide a bit of a challenge. Nonetheless, part of his plan involves using the finest local ingredients from such purveyors as The Curaçao Ostrich Farm, which provides the bird’s lean meat and giant eggs. Currently, Hortenica is on a lionfish kick. “There are too many lionfish around the island, so I am experimenting with preparations. That’s something I can’t do in Europe. We catch lionfish on this beautiful island and prepare it right here.”
For lionfish: Ask your local fishmonger to clean and filet the lionfish for you. Safe handling is a priority because lionfish spines are very sharp and venomous. Season filets with sea salt, then pan-fry in hot olive oil on the skin side until crispy. Flip filet onto other side and fry for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside. For Caribbean ratatouille: Heat pan with a small amount of olive oil. Fry half of the onion and half of the garlic. Add the plantain, then the remaining vegetables. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set aside. For sweet potato: Boil potato until soft. Take out and dry on paper towels. Pan fry in unsalted butter. Season with sea salt and set aside. For chimichurri oil: Blend parsley, remaining garlic, remaining onion, olive oil, salt and pepper in blender. On each plate, form a circle of Caribbean ratatouille, then top with a lionfish filet. Plate sweet potato beside the ratatouille, then drizzle chimichurri oil over plate.
PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53
ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1
Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
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Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.
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Engaging the Senses
Drinking well isn’t just about great taste. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
enhances wine or cocktails, but there’s no doubt a heavy-cut crystal whisky glass or big red wine glass enhances our perception of the drink. Texture also plays a significant role: granular sugar is a plus on the rim of a Sidecar, but a minus in the drink (where liquid simple syrup is often used instead). Sound: People underestimate how much sound influences experience. To play with this sense, British bartender Tony Conigliaro experimented by serving the same drink against two different soundtracks (classical and techno), resulting in completely different tasting notes from attendees. Sense of Place: Terroir is a French word which suggests that wine, in particular, is influenced by soil, microclimates and even the personality of the winemaker. But we also experience a sense of context; visiting a winery or distillery can actually make the product taste “better,” because you now have a connection to the producer. A specific cocktail can induce memories of a perfect date or a great travel experience. Sense of Balance: Equilibrioception, regulated by the inner ear, is severely hampered by consuming too much alcohol. But there’s another sense of balance: one of balance in your cocktail, where all the elements— sweet and sour, alcohol and sugar, fruit and savory—come together perfectly. Learning to identify a balanced drink (or what a drink is lacking) goes a long way toward creating ideal food pairings. It even turns out that senses can do double duty. Synesthesia crosses wires, and allows those with that neurological condition to “hear” colors and “see” sounds. To some degree, we all do it: Green means “go” and fast food restaurants decorate in bright colors to make people hungrier and eat faster. Get to know your senses and how they work, and you’ll enjoy your drinking and dining experience in a whole new way.
f someone asks what senses are involved when you’re sipping a glass of wine or a cocktail, the correct answer is “all of them.” Taste, smell and sight are all pretty obvious. But touch (mouth feel, a chilled glass), sound (the bubbles in the glass, the crack and tumble of ice) and more come into play to truly round out your drinking experience. It turns out we rely on far more than five senses (maybe as many as 21) to make sense of the world. Thermoception, for example—our sense of hot and cold—turns out to be a completely different thing than our sense of touch. When it comes to enjoying a glass of wine or a cocktail, understanding how our senses interact goes a long way to understanding why we like or don’t like a particular food or drink. “Dimmer lighting in a bar can mask colors and aesthetics, causing the imbiber to rely on aromas, texture and flavors to engage with the drink,” says Pamela Wiznitzer, president of the New York branch of the U.S. Bartenders Guild and an M.S. candidate in food science at NYU. “Similarly, the sounds of cracking ice and shaking and straining a cocktail can cause a Pavlovian sensation. Bars that elevate the background music may drown out that component, leaving the guest with visual stimulation as the only option. It’s one reason why drinks at brightly lit rooftop and pool bars tend to rely on vivid colors and wild garnishes, while cocktail lounges emphasize complex, savory ingredients.” Sight: “Blind” tastings can be taken to an extreme at restaurants that offer “dining in the dark” options. A few years ago, Wiznitzer crafted a deconstructed Pisco Sour cocktail featuring reduced lime syrup and gelled pisco “pearls.” Guests put the drink together on their palate in total darkness for a new experience. Smell: An old trick has you pinch your nose shut to learn that an onion and an apple taste the same. Somewhere between 70 and 90 percent of what we “taste” actually happens with our olfactory nerves. Opus One winemaker Michael Salacci hires a parfumist to lead sensory training sessions and provide an outside opinion while blending the brand’s iconic Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. Taste: The old “tongue map” (sweet at the tip of the tongue, salty on the sides, etc.) has been largely debunked by science. But it does turn out that different chemical reactions are responsible for differing tastes. Wired magazine’s August 2014 What’s Inside column noted that for the popular hot sauce sriracha, capsaicinoids in spicy peppers bind to TRPV1 receptors in nerve endings conveying touch, temperature and pain, while salt is probably interacting with ion channels in your taste buds. Touch: There’s a lot of debate on whether the “right” glassware actually
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Right: Chenoweth’s 2014 CD release of career favorites.
Kristin Chenoweth’s big voice and bright smile have been lighting up stages and screens for decades. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
hat Kristin Chenoweth lacks in height she makes up for in vocal power, acting ability and fashion sense. The 4'11'', 46-year-old superstar has thrilled Broadway audiences with her work in such shows as You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown (which earned her a Tony), Wicked and Promises, Promises. She’s also a frequent TV and film actress, best known for her roles as Annabeth in The West Wing, Courtney in Four Christmases, Olive Snook in Pushing Daisies (for which she won an Emmy) and April in Glee. And did we mention she regularly sells out concert halls and major arenas? Last fall, Chenoweth released her latest CD, Coming Home, a concert version of which also aired as a PBS special. She’s currently appearing on Broadway opposite Peter Gallagher as
From top: Chenoweth in The Good Wife; with Peter Gallagher in On the Twentieth Century; in Glee; as Glinda the Good in Wicked.
tempestuous 1930s film star Lily Garland in the Roundabout Theatre Company’s revival of the hit musical On the Twentieth Century. Accent recently caught up with Chenoweth to chat about her career, her fashion choices and her favorite pieces of jewelry. The character of Lily Garland in On the Twentieth Century has long been on your radar. How does it feel to finally get the chance to portray her on Broadway? It’s definitely been on my bucket list. The composers, Betty Comden and Adolph Green, told me before they passed away that I was the next rightful owner of that role. I’ve always kept that in the back of my mind, and it seemed like now the time was right. And here I am doing it! I’m very nervous, because it’s a difficult score to sing, and there’s some major physical comedy. When you play a character like Lily, who is a bit of a diva, which parts of your personality do you draw from? I guess there is strength in me that I can only see at times when I’m being pushed to the limit, and Lily is a push-to-thelimit type of character. And vocally she’s a soprano, so that is right in my wheelhouse. The character you’re best known for may be Glinda from Wicked. Do you ever get tired of singing songs from that show at your concerts? Sometimes I wonder if the audience really wants to hear Popular again, but they prove me wrong every time. They always do! How did you choose which songs to record for Coming Home? It’s a culmination of songs I’ve been singing my whole life, so it’s more of a career record. Gospel music is a big part of my life, so I included a song I grew up singing, Little Sparrow, which is a tribute to Dolly Parton. There’s Somewhere Over the Rainbow, which I’ve been singing since I was itty-bitty. And I Could’ve Danced All Night from My Fair Lady shows my vocal training. Everything I do is represented on that album. What are your favorite things to do off-stage? When I need to get away, I like to go to Cabo San Lucas and lie by the pool and drink margaritas and hang out and eat. I also like to just stay in bed and watch TV. Tell us about your sense of fashion, both in real life and on the red carpet. I keep it pretty simple. I think simple is better when you’re petite. And I like to mix and match. If I get a dress from Zara, then I’ll pair it with Christian Louboutin shoes. Do you have a surefire look for attracting attention? I don’t think cleavage ever hurts. How do you use jewelry to complete a look, and what are some of your favorite pieces? I don’t do a lot of big jewelry unless I’m on stage. Personally, I like smaller stacked necklaces and rings. I have a brand-new pair of broken arrow earrings that my friends gave me knowing I’m from a little town in Oklahoma called Broken Arrow, so currently those are my favorite. Have you inherited any family jewelry heirlooms that mean something particularly special to you? There is a black onyx ring that my grandma had. She gave it to my mom and my mom, not too long ago, gave it to me. That’s one of my prized possessions. So is another ring that my grandma had throughout her life; it’s an opal with diamonds around it. Those are the kind of things on which you can’t put a monetary value.
“Sometimes I wonder if the audience really wants to hear Popular again.. . they always do!”
Why choose a True Jeweler
WHEN ITâ€™STIMETO SELLYOUR JEWELRY? You can easily sell your unwanted jewelry to someone who will dismantle it and use the metal and gemstones for other projects. We do that too sometimes, when appropriate. But since we understand fashion, weâ€™re always looking for older designs that are still beautiful. Our craftsmen can refurbish an old piece, repair it when needed and bring it back to life. In the end, you get more money for your unwanted jewelry, and we find it a new home with somebody who will truly appreciate it. We get to make two people happy. Items shown available at STORE5a.com
Italy’s designers step up to preserve cultural landmarks. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
ast spring, in the wake of crippling recessions, Matteo Renzi, Italy’s newest (and youngest) prime minister, called on the private sector to help fund emergency restoration of collapsing structures in the ancient wonder that is the buried city of Pompeii. Heavy rains and flooding had caused severe damage, and the government was unable to cover the whole bill. Now the program is expanding to the country’s museums, fountains and other icons, particularly in Rome. And its fashion giants—including Fendi, Bulgari and Tod’s—are stepping up to the plate. While corporate sponsorship of public projects is nothing new in the U.S., it’s fairly unprecedented in Italy, where there’s a resistance to mixing private and government programs. “The ideological refusal to permit the private sector to intervene—as if only the public sector could guarantee the guardianship of heritage—must end,” Renzi announced last March. Soon after, luxury jeweler Bulgari said it would put $2 million toward an extensive refurbishment of the storied Spanish Steps in the Piazza di Spagna, where decades of heavy traffic have taken a toll on the 290-year-old structure. Scheduled to begin this year, it will help celebrate Bulgari’s 130th anniversary as a “special gift from
Roberto Cavalli held a runway show beneath Milan’s Arch of Peace and donated $120,000 towards its restoration.
GETTY 1; RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIES DIRECTIONS
Bulgari to its city,” CEO Jean-Christophe Babin said in a statement. These gestures are not completely without precedent: In 2010, Roberto Cavalli presented his collection beneath Milan’s Arch of Peace in exchange for a $120,000 donation toward its restoration. What’s changed is the scale—and the ability to do some branding during construction. Tod’s, the shoe company famous for its elegant driving moccasins, announced it is helping to finance a series of projects at Rome’s 2,000-yearold Colosseum. Plans for the $30 million comprehensive restoration have been in the works since 2012. (They met with some controversy, since part of the agreement involves promotional opportunties for Tod’s in exchange for the funding.) A series of restorations of the site’s arches, facades and entrances will keep the famous amphitheater partially shrouded in scaffolding for over two years. In the end, though, the city should be able to enjoy its massive monument for another few millennia. And last summer, Fendi announced it would dedicate almost $3 million to a restoration of the Trevi Fountain, the Neptune-and-chariot adorned destination built in the 18th century and made famous in the films La Dolce Vita and Three Coins in the Fountain. While tourists might lament visiting the site while it’s drained and under scaffolding, it’s also possible they’ll catch Fendi’s creative genius Karl Lagerfeld, who loves photographing Rome’s fountains. For Fendi, restoring the city’s fountains (more projects are planned) makes sense. Insists Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of accessories and thirdgeneration designer, “It’s our duty to pay tribute to the city of Rome which has given us so much.”
The Gold Collection FEATURED IN WHITE, YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS.
© D.YURMAN 2015
DONOHO’S JEWELLERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS