ACC E N T M AG A ZI N E , T H E M AG A ZI N E O F L I F E â€™ S C E L E B R ATI O N S , FA L L / W I N T E R 2 017/2 01 8
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THE COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA Rooted in the history of motor sports and watchmaking, the legendary chronograph that was born to race. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGR APH DAY TONA
oyster perpetual, cosmograph and daytona are ® trademarks.
s t n e t n o C Table of
Special F eatures 2 4 16 21
Gifts That Wow
G ifts t hat Wow
Te nn is Classic
BRUCE G. WEBER PRECIOUS JEWELS 1700 Utica Square, Tulsa OK, 74114 | 918-749-1700 | brucegweber.com
PUBLISHED BY THE UBM FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER STUART NIFOUSSI
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MENGHI
MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION PEG EADIE
DESIGN DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS JOHN FRASCONE
DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MICHELLE BROWN
Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the ﬂuctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. While we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions. Accent® Magazine is a UBM® publication. All rights reserved. UBM Americas, 2 Penn Plaza, Floor 15, New York, NY 10121. The publishers accept no responsibility for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Printed In The U.S.A. Volume 15, Issue 2. ©2017
Hello Friends, Our favorite time of the year is upo n us! At Bruce G. Weber we are in the business of helping you celebrate and com memorate special moments in you r live s. In this issue of our Accent magazine we have created a special gift guide section to help you in your search for the perfect gifts. Enjoy the season and thank you. We look forward to the future and will con tinue our commitment to serving our customers and providing the best jewelry in the world!
Michelle Holdgrafer, Store Directo r
Sasha Patterson, Store Director
g n i h t y r e v E e is Possibl Wishing our newly engaged and married customers a lifetime of love!
Brandon Champagne & Ashley Jones Stephanie McKenna Photography
Aly & Jerrod Roberts Simply White Photography
Aly & Jerrod Roberts
Brendan Smith & Sierra Rocco
Simply White Photography
Levi Tijerna Photography
g n i h t y r e v E e is Possibl Wishing our newly engaged and married customers a lifetime of love!
Katie & Nathan Barrett
Katie & Nathan Barrett
Merritt Hunt & Lauren Baker Chris Humphrey Photography
Merritt Hunt & Lauren Baker Chris Humphrey Photography
The round halo’s popularity has waned. What’s newly in demand: diamond accents elsewhere, such as on the shank, and the oval halo, an elegant look that elongates and slims the finger. Oval has risen to the top among fancy diamond shapes.
FLOWERS & BOWS
Flowers, vines and leaves seemingly gathered from the garden join bows in bringing the latest bridal gown trends to engagement rings. Floral halos or ribbon-like flourishes make for sophisticated styles that appeal to Boho and classic girls alike.
Whether twisted or overlapping, this wrapped design focuses attention on the center stone and adds interest to a simpler setting. What better way to signify tying the knot?
Vintage has been gaining favor for its glamour and timelessness. Nods to the Victorian and Art Deco periods include delicate engraving and personalized elements.
More than ever, couples want to convey their stories in uniquely personal ways. Today’s abundant engagement ring choices offer an extension of that storytelling.
While colored diamonds in pink, yellow, chocolate and black are all options, colored gemstones are even bigger breakouts. Sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and the dimensional color of alexandrite and opal are being used alone or with diamonds in three-stone settings and halos.
BY LAURIE SCHECHTER
PEAR & MARQUISE SHAPES
These tapered cuts provide a slenderizing effect on the hand and work well in an array of on-trend settings, from vintage to east/west.
More evidence of the non-traditional movement and the desire to assert individuality, rose, yellow, white gold and platinum come together in stacking rings or in a single design.
Dual bands offer an architectural and fashion-forward look. Plain or covered in diamonds, it’s a bold yet simple statement.
This is the ultimate example of customization and personalization. Rising in status for some time now, stacks are fast becoming the new standard, able to be mixed and matched, worn separately and added to over time.
DIAMOND & DESIGN DETAILING
EAST/ WEST SETTINGS
Perhaps one of the newest looks is the east/west setting, showcasing a horizontal stone orientation rather than vertical. Unique and versatile, accommodating all manner of stone cuts, this setting creates the illusion of a larger stone and stacks well with other rings.
Dainty and delicate, simple designs can be as impactful as over-the-top styles. The most popular engagement ring on Pinterest recently was a brilliant round solitaire diamond on a thin, simple band. Traditional and au courant, the design proves sometimes less is truly more.
Unique details kick it up a notch and enhance the center stone. Scrollwork in an ornate setting lends a one-of-a kind feel. Elaborate details on the sides of a band add dimensional views. Accent diamonds, in baguettes or unique shapes, ramp up the bling factor.
Uber feminine and romantic, rose gold is probably the trendiest of metals and flatters all skin tones. With more women going for a feminine, fashionable look when walking down the aisle, it’s no surprise pink reigns supreme.
THE LOWEST PRICES ON THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DIAMONDS
icing on the cake
1700 UTICA SQUARE | TULSA, OKLAHOMA | BRUCEGWEBER.COM
Fall ushers in sculptural statements and multi-purpose functionality.
as jewelry ever been more fun to wear? Whether you lean toward delicate charms, sparkling florals or bold geometry, there are plenty of ways this season to tie it all together and make it hip, elegant and uniquely your own. Versatility is key right now, and designers are expanding their collections with that in mind. Look for necklaces that convert to bracelets or multi-finger rings that fold into one. We’re still stacking and layering, so there’s plenty of room for individual expression. You probably don’t need to retire anything in your jewelry wardrobe this fall to remain on point. But you might want to step it up a notch, add a statement piece or two, some edgy texture and vibrant color. BY CATHLEEN MCCARTHY
blue topaz and the whole spectrum of blue sapphire from faded to inky. Look for hoops set with translucent tanzanite or rose-cut fancy sapphires, and pendants strung on multi-strands of sapphire beads gradated from pale to indigo. Tanzanite is another option to consider. Hueb elevated tanzanite to new levels by combining it with the sparkle and elegance of diamonds in white gold—most recently setting clusters of delicate trillion cuts (curved triangles) on slender white gold bars in its Trilliant collection. Flesh-baring openwork designs like this will continue to get more elegant and dramatic.
FROM LEFT: SUTRA, SUTRA, HUEB
pal continues strong, showing up as the standout in cocktail rings accented with diamonds, or colored gems like blue topaz and peridot that bring out the stone’s inner rainbow. Watery blue moonstones are another crowd favorite, and we’re seeing other misty blues and bluegreens like aquamarine and chalcedony. Along this line, David Yurman is pairing chrysoprase and turquoise in the Chatelaine collection. Also expect to see more of the newcomer gem aquaprase, a minty-green chalcedony discovered in Africa in 2014. But the hottest hue on the horizon will have you matching your gems to your jeans. Fashion designers from Dior to Calvin Klein to Stella McCartney showed denim ensembles for fall, and we predict denim blue will be the primary gem color of 2018. Jewelry looks are already showing the denim hues of London
COLLARS & CUFFS
TOP: FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS BY JADE TRAU, FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS BY JADE TRAU, PENNY PREVILLE. BOTTOM: PENNY PREVILLE, ARMENTA.
ne way to update the layers at your throat is to add a personalized, engraved charm or pendant. Another is to add one of the new, more refined chokers, destined to become a go-to basic. David Yurman added lots of gold this year, including rose gold. One way to open your existing Yurman silver stack to the gold to come: add a piece or two from this season’s mixed-metals, like those polished gold accents in his silver Chatelaine collection. Whether you normally go for the gold or stick to silver, a mixed-metal lariat is destined to become a wardrobe basic. Open-ended rings and bracelets are everywhere, ranging from those slender diamond-tipped bangles that Halle Berry stacked on one wrist at the Oscars to the bold geometry of baguette rings. Where the statement bracelet is concerned, it’s all about female empowerment. The power cuff can be worn stacked, one on each wrist like Coco Chanel, or Wonder Woman-style as this show-stopping (bullet-deflecting?) statement piece from Penny Preville.
hat celestial trend we’ve been seeing for a couple years is moving away from the yoga influence of astrology and zodiac constellations and drifting into the far reaches of outer space. Maybe it’s all the talk of reviving space exploration, but a UFO has landed in the design zeitgeist. Chanel and Comme des Garçons were among those who introduced astronaut-inspired silver garb on the runway this year. Jessica Biel created Oscar buzz with a diamondmounted fringe collar worn with her form-fitting metallic gown. Priyanka Chopra sported matching platinumand-diamond cuffs on each wrist on the same red carpet. You can get in on this space-age trend with any of the bold, geometric cuff bracelets or collars on offer. In some cases, it’s a little subtler: concentric gold circles dotted with gems and pearls, hinting at planets revolving around an axis. A simpler way to get a piece of that night sky: add a starburst. These exuberant bursts of celestial energy are everywhere. Try a blackdiamond star choker, cluster earrings, or a delicate bangle of white diamond stars to add sparkle and texture to your stack.
ith The Jazz Age exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt whetting our appetites once again for Deco, and Past is Present: Revival Jewelry at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts (through August 2018), vintage jewelry lovers are newly dazzled by the glamour and craftsmanship of past eras. You don’t need to bid at auction to score revival style. Today’s designers are reinventing looks that have been around for decades or, in some cases, millennia. Some designers are bringing Deco back with colored diamonds, or setting pyramid-shaped colored stones in that familiar stepped, architectural gold. Even Stephen Webster has played with Deco, with his Chrysler Building-inspired detachable diamond earrings. Digging further back, Armenta has added bold new pieces to its Artifacts collection, playing off the tarnished finish and aged texture of long-buried antiquities by mounting them in bright, granulated gold.
FUTURE is FEMALE armor? What styles will they want to work into their existing collections?” Having an expansive set of archives is also helpful to lean on while designing. While I was designing Naga, it was important to honor the original silhouette in the new iteration. I feminized the silhouette, replacing the scales with leafier interpretations and swapping the red eyes for softer blue sapphire eyes. The newest collection features a number of mixed metal pieces and introduces stones like silver sheen obsidian. It’s a byproduct of volcano, but one would never guess from the stone’s beautiful sheen and sense of light. As we modernize and elevate our collections, adding more gemstones was a natural next step.
Creative director Hollie Bonneville Barden brings a new outlook to JOHN HARDY. Tell us about your first year at John Hardy. I spent a great deal of time really getting to know the brand’s history and our clientele. My first major challenge was to reinterpret the Naga, one of the mythical talisman icons from our Legends collection. When researching the Naga myth in Bali, I discovered stories of Naga represented as a spirit of nature (sky, ocean, volcano) that had great universal symbolism. Working closely with the brand’s artisans helped me grasp a greater understanding of the spirit of Naga in artwork and carved expression. The historical celebration of the raw power and symbolism of Naga formed the overarching concept for the season, which also features new iterations of the timeless Chain, Dot and Bamboo collections. I also had the opportunity to visit our retail partners, many of which are family-run businesses, and connect with customers. Many of our clients are strong, empowered women who are purchasing John Hardy for themselves to celebrate a milestone. It’s truly so inspiring to see this display of female power through jewelry.
What’s it like being John Hardy’s youngest creative director as well as the first female? I am very lucky to hold the role of creative director for such an iconic brand. It’s my personality to take the bull by the horns, which has helped me. Every day there is a steep learning curve, but it is empowering too. Being young offers me the advantage of having a different viewpoint. I have been fortunate to have incredible experiences thus far.
You’re British but now spend the majority of your time traveling between New York and Bali. How do these diverse places inspire your designs? I am attracted to the fast-paced rhythm of NYC and all of the innovative design happening. I’m inspired by its vibrant energy and glamour. Bali has this amazing creative energy and offers a much slower pace. This sort of yin and yang I experience between the two places is very much reflected in the versatility of my designs.
How do you continue to innovate while designing for a brand that has such an iconic look? I am keeping our strong, powerful female clientele in mind. I ask myself, “What do they want to wear as their personal
The Artisan Handcrafted Modern Chain Collection
John Hardy and Modern Chain Collection are Registered Trademarks.
c i ss a l C s i nn Te
PROCEEDS ARE PROUDLY DONATED TO THE CHILDRENâ€™S HOSPITAL AT SAINT FRANCIS The Childrenâ€™s Hospital at Saint Francis provides care for the physical, emotional and spiritual needs of children and their families. Every child who goes to The Childrenâ€™s Hospital at Saint Francis is treated as though he or she is their one and only patient. Each year, the health of thousands of children is improved through the expertise of their skilled medical professionals and state-of-theart childrenâ€™s services.
Bruce G. Weber is proud to serve our community by hosting our annual tennis tournament, bringing community and VHUYLFHWRJHWKHUWREHQHĂ€WWKHFKLOGUHQ of Tulsa and surrounding areas.
The Childrenâ€™s Hospital at Saint Francis provides your child with comprehensive medical care of the highest quality through inpatient and outpatient services, a network of more than 100 pediatricians and 65 pediatric sub-specialists throughout eastern Oklahoma, and cutting-edge equipment and technology. When a visit to The Childrenâ€™s Hospital at Saint Francis is necessary, be assured that their facility is designed with your child in mind every step of the
way. They provide a child-friendly environment that isnâ€™t frightening or intimidating, as well as a full spectrum of sophisticated, cutting-edge childrenâ€™s services. Your family will also receive extensive support and patient education throughout your Childrenâ€™s Hospital stay, so you can all support his or her recovery. Medical care for children can EHGLÍżHUHQWWKDQIRUDGXOWVDQG KRVSLWDOL]DWLRQFDQEHPRUHGLÎ€ FXOW Their systems are smaller and more LPPDWXUHDQGWKH\UHVSRQGGLÍżHUHQWO\ to medications. The Childrenâ€™s Hospital doctors, nurses and volunteers go to great lengths to ensure young patients feel comfortable and secure throughout their stay. Parents whose children have received their care will often tell you the people at The Childrenâ€™s Hospital at Saint Francis PDNHDOOWKHGLÍżHUHQFHLQWKHZRUOG
ROBERTO COIN Since 1996, Roberto Coin has been known as a creator of sophistication, blending modernity and tradition. Driven by an innate love for the world of art and fashion, Coin decided to leave his successful career as a hotel manager to follow his dream, facing a new and passionate adventure. His creativity took shape through the hands of the most renowned Italian jewelry artisans, who brought Roberto Coin’s romantic and borderless imagination to life through their skills, telling his story through jewels that truly become works of art. Proof positive of this is the Venetian Princess collection, inspired by the patterns and decorations of storied Venetian architecture. It brings to mind fables and majesty, handed down through the narrow Venetian alleys under the warm light of lanterns, where elegance meets intrigue. New this year are sophisticated satin finishes and exquisite pavé lockets, allowing you to carry a piece of the mystery close to your own heart.
MIKIMOTO Those lucky enough to discover Mikimoto’s beautiful High Jewellery creations remain forever in awe of the brand’s ability to marry the highest-quality pearls with sophisticated design and expert craftsmanship. Always a highlight are rare and natural Conch and Melo pearls surrounded by sparkling diamonds. To give an idea of the rarity of these luscious pink and peach-hued stones, only one in every 100,000 found in nature meets Mikimoto standards; finding a matched set is truly more difficult than locating a needle in a haystack. For those without access to the brand’s one-of-a-kind creations, The Pearl Necklace (Assouline Publishing) is Mikimoto’s newest art book, which tells the story of the pearl necklace throughout time, highlights some of pearls’ most illustrious wearers from Cleopatra to Princess Diana, and instills the importance of Mikimoto’s contribution as “The Originator of Cultured Pearls since 1893.” It leaves the reader with a renewed sense of the beauty and artistry that only Mikimoto has mastered.
Gift of Time
tirelessly to build a sanctuary for his mission church on Long Island. The watch, which bears an inscription from 1957, is from the only banker who would lend the reverend money for the construction. “I wear my Rolex every day,” says Hinsch, “but when I go to church, it’s always the Wittnauer.” It’s not uncommon for a watch’s story to span generations, even when it just involves digging it out of storage and getting it running again. Take Maxwell Raymond Rich, a 26-year-old attorney in Manhattan. In 1956, his grandfather rewarded himself for his hard work as a stockbroker with a goldplated Omega Seamaster Automatic. Five years later he found himself with a wife and bouncing baby boy. When Rich was set to graduate law school, he, too, decided to reward himself and began talking about buying a watch. That’s when his mother remembered grandpa’s Omega stashed away in a box somewhere, forgotten for decades. “We decided that, in honor of my father’s upcoming 55th birthday, we should have the watch serviced and restored,” recounts Rich. “Omega sent it to Switzerland for six months, and the watch arrived a few days before his birthday. He loves telling the watch’s history and how it pays honor to his father. My brothers and I look at the watch as one of our few heirlooms from Grandfather.” (Hopefully they won’t have to fight over it!) You could say the value of the Omega—the sentimental value, that is—had been reappraised. And isn’t that the nature of younger generations: to value the things of their grandparents’ era, things that their parents deemed old-fashioned or even worthless? We should all aspire to be scrupulous reappraisers of all things in our lives, in an effort to fill them with as much beauty and meaning as possible. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
ew luxury brands can create lifestyle marketing campaigns that rival the true stories of real people. Heirloom watches and jewelry pieces are often passed on with tales attached to them—sometimes banal, sometimes sparkling with romantic adventure. The term “sentimental value,” after all, is hardly a sentimental term, for it describes something very real. Some possessions are more valuable to us than their monetary worth would suggest because of the emotions and memories attached to them. That’s why, when we lose something with sentimental value, it really hurts the heart. “I went to Knox College, the same college my father did,” says Jack Dechow. “Right after I decided to attend, my father gave me a watch inscribed with the college’s crest that his parents had given him upon graduation. It was a simple gold watch with a metal band. I wore it a lot over the summer, but it was stolen out of my car the month before I embarked for campus. I really wish I still had it, so I’d have a tangible gift to remember my father and grandfather by when they inevitably pass.” Much has been noted about Millennials’ low interest in things like status logos and analog watches. But it turns out many in this generation value luxury heirlooms more than we expected. To own a fine piece is one thing, but to wear a fine piece with a tale behind it elevates it from mere status symbol and makes the wearer a storyteller. Dr. James Hinsch has a luxury watch of his own—a vintage Wittnauer—also a sentimental keepsake he takes out weekly. His father was a reverend who worked
EVERETT COLLECTION / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Imparting more than intrinsic value, a watch is the person who wore it.
Diamond-shaped Deco earrings $10,595
DAVID YURMAN Diamond Stax chain link ring $1,500
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Datejust $10,000
Masai ring $2,670
Onda diamond stud earrings $795
Blue sapphire Cascade ring $4,090
ROBERTO COIN Venetian Princess locket pendant $6,400
ROBERTO COIN MARCO BICEGO Lunaria lapis ring $2,430
Love emoji necklace $790 Cool emoji necklace $790 Diamond kiss emoji $900
PESAVENTO Polvere square-cut ring $251
ROBERTO COIN Classic Parisienne earrings $2,750
MARCO BICEGO Masai bracelet $4,990
ROBERTO COIN Venetian Princess ring $2,950
DAVID YURMAN Classic quartz with mother-of-pearl dial $6,800
that Wow DAVID YURMAN
Hematine Anvil signet ring $800
Classic Chain bracelet in black rubber $295
JOHN HARDY Classic Chain with wood beads bracelet $695
DAVID YURMAN Small box chain $245 Malachite enhancer $450
DAVID YURMAN )RUJHGFDUERQFXÍ¿OLQNV $1,495
FABER-CASTELL Ondoro wood rollerball pen $150 Black matte Tamitio pen $225
Faceted band ring $1,850
DAVID YURMAN &DUYHGVNXOOULQJ
JOHN HARDY /HJHQGV1DJDGRJWDJ QHFNODFH
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Bamboo pearl necklace $795
Legends Naga bracelet $1,795
DAVID YURMAN Peridot Osetra bangle $900 Hampton blue topaz Osetra bangle $900
IPPOLITA Onda linear earrings $325
PESAVENTO PENNY PREVILLE
Polvere hoop earrings $389
Diamond Stardust ear climbers $3,995
Diamond leaf pendant $381
Baby hammered hoops $1,225
Lunaria ring $2,400
PENNY PREVILLE Round and square earrings $2,765
PENNY PREVILLE Moderne necklace $2,995 Diamond eyeglass chain $2,895
Stardust bracelet $700
Blue sapphire and round diamond cigar band $3,525
ARMENTA Old World Crivelli drop earrings $2,790
TARA PEARLS South Sea pearl and diamond ring $1,969
Lunaria drop earrings $1,310
ROBERTO COIN CENTO Signature three-row diamond necklace $35,000
Emerald and diamond Art Deco earrings $43,534
SUTRA Opal doublet, emerald and diamond ring $14,000
RAHAMINOV Diamond halo ring $64,750
Datejust Pearlmaster $50,950
Yacht-Master II $18,750
Submariner Blue Index $13,400
ROBERTO COIN CENTO CHRISTOPHER DESIGNS
Diamond Cascade necklace $180,860
Lâ€™Amour Crisscut ring $28,834
MIKIMOTO Black South Sea pearl strand $14,000
ROBERT PROCOP Ruby, pink sapphire and diamond earrings $36,850
SUTRA Emerald and diamond earrings $125,000
SUTRA Diamond bracelet $32,000
Diamond drop earrings $88,593
ROBERTO COIN Designer Gold earrings $1,700
MARCO BICEGO Diamond Masai ring $1,850
IPPOLITA Cherish Bond necklace $245
Onda necklace with diamonds $875
Golden Gate hoop earrings $3,040
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JOHN HARDY Bamboo pearl earrings $595
Old World Crivelli bracelet $1,990
Bamboo ring $595
PENNY PREVILLE Ruby bangle $5,985
MARCO BICEGO Lunaria black mother-ofpearl and diamond pendant $2,340 Lunaria black mother-ofpearl and diamond necklace $10,890
RAHAMINOV Diamond triangle earrings $1,600
ELIZABETH LOCKE Oval link bracelet with stone toggle $12,925
ROBERTO COIN Black Jade earrings $1,950
KWIAT Diamond star necklace $2,650
DAVID YURMAN Continuance bracelet $7,900
YOSSI HARARI Sara diamond ring $9,290
ARMENTA Old World multi-chain necklace $1,650 Old World Crivelli enhancer $1,990
SUTRA Diamond earrings $9,500
ELIZABETH LOCKE Gold oval lapis clip bale $2,925
ARMENTA Old World Crivelli ring $1,990
PENNY PREVILLE Diamond bangle $7,000 Diamond bezel-set bangle $6,485
DAVID YURMAN Supernova necklace $6,800
POIS MOI COLLECTION
Know Your Diamond CARAT WEIGHT
Look for diamonds graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs.
are Trade Marks of The De Beers Group of Companies. ™
© Forevermark 2016. Forevermark ®,
It’s a long journey to become the one. In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection. This is why less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark inscription – our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.
n r o b e R y r u Lux
STORE 5a buys and sells authenticated, pre-owned luxury jewelry, timepieces and handbags.
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HEREâ€™S WHY TO SELL WITH US:
1. Simplicity We purchase each piece outright, allowing you to receive a check almost immediately.
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TIME RISING ABOVE
Philippe Lebru and the art of contemporary clockmaking.
hen we recently discovered this sculptural collection of wall and tall clocks at the 2017 Watch Fair in Basel, Switzerland, we felt we had stumbled upon something extraordinary. Then when we met its creator, Philippe Lebru, we knew we were face to face with genius! Since 1993, Lebru has been experimenting with oversized, graphic (some say subversive) timepieces, and with the relationship between individuals and time. “I imagined a clock that could rise above time, a clock that would connect the past to the future, tracing a line that defines our relationship to a greater force,” he explains. This greater force, no doubt, is what catapulted the artist to considerable fame. In 2005, his collection was awarded the Grand Prix at France’s Concours Lepine for inventions. He then won a gold medal for horology at the International Exhibition of Inventions in Geneva. In 2011, Lebru produced two monumental clocks for the city of Besancon (birthplace of Victor Hugo, Gustave Courbet and Louis Pasteur): one for its high-speed train station and one for its art museum. In 2015, he was commissioned to produce a five-meter-high skeleton clock, the largest in the world, which currently marks the moments in downtown Tokyo. And speaking of commissions, you too can own one of Lebru’s horological masterpieces. Check out his collection online (utinam-manufacture.fr) or send him a photo of your room and he will custom design the perfect piece for your wall. More than mere clocks, these timepieces are unique combinations of art, science, culture and technical prowess. As it is said: “If we take care of the moments, the years will take care of themselves.” BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
CLOCKWORK ORANGE: Lebru’s creations are technical and artistic feats of imagination.
RAREFIED REALM of
NATURAL COLOR DIAMONDS
For centuries, natural color diamonds have been regarded as the worldâ€™s most sought-after gems, by knowledgable collectors and even royalty. Natural color diamonds have long been treasured for their rarity: coveted by many, but owned by few. These diamonds are truly wonders of the world, as old as the Earth itself, yet never have they been more sought after than they are today; their scarcity is at the heart of their desirability.
Only one in 10,000 diamonds mined displays enough natural color to be designated a fancy color diamond by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Theirs is a discreet luxury: In the rareﬁed realm of fancy color diamonds, strength of color is more important than the size of the stone. Natural color diamonds can be 10 to 20 times more valuable than their colorless counterparts, and their popularity as an alternative is growing. However, no one acquires a fancy color diamond for its investment value alone. Their allure lies in their mesmerizing beauty, rarity, mystery and unique provenance. Rare natural color diamonds have increased in value exponentially in the last 10 years, often by double digits year over year. According to leading trade organizations, auction houses and expert diamantaires, rare fancy pink and fancy blue diamonds have led the way, growing by well over 300 percent on average and outperforming most other asset classes in the same period. As global ﬁnancial markets continue to demonstrate volatility and instability, afﬂuent collectors and investors around the world are acquiring natural color diamonds to protect their wealth, and to transfer it from one generation to the next. Meanwhile, as demand rises, the earth’s supply of fancy color diamonds is dwindling: The Cullinan Mine in South Africa is today the only important source of blue diamonds; Australia’s Ellendale Mine, a main source of yellows, has recently ceased production; and Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia, the source of most pink diamonds, is scheduled to close by 2020.
In diamonds, rarity equals value. With diamonds in the normal range, value is based on the absence of color, because colorless diamonds are the rarest. With fancy color diamonds—the ones outside the normal color range—the rarest and most valuable colors are saturated reds, pinks, blues and greens. In all cases, even very slight color differences can have a big impact on value. Compared to fancy yellows and browns, diamonds with a noticeable hint of any other hue are considerably more rare. Even in light tones and weak saturation, as long as they show color in the face-up position, they qualify as fancy colors. Red, green and blue diamonds with medium to dark tones and moderate saturations are extremely rare.
With fancy color diamonds, color is the dominant value factor. Even diamonds with numerous inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are prized by connoisseurs if they display attractive face-up color. Of course, inclusions that threaten the gem’s durability can lower a fancy color diamond’s value signiﬁcantly. Fancy color diamonds can exhibit color graining, which is considered an inclusion. CUT
Size and shape are two aspects of cut that can inﬂuence diamond color. The larger a diamond is, or the deeper its pavilion, the farther light can travel in it. This can often lead to a richer, more intense color. C A R AT W E I G H T
As with diamonds in the normal D-to-Z color range, large fancy color diamonds are rarer and more valuable than small ones.
Some information courtesy of GIA.
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NATURAL COLOR DIAMONDS
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