ABOUT FASHION NÂ°1
the birth 1 issue s e p t . 2 0 1 6
ABOUT FASHION NÂ°1
ABOUT FASHION MAGAZINE
the birth issue s e p t . 2 0 1 6
letter from the
Where to start? We are at the beginning of a â€œI have no idea where it is going to bring meâ€? journey and it is so amazing. During this few months since aboutfashionmag.com went live I realized how many talented and beautiful people we have out there believing in what we do. We received lots of messages from all over the world and you demonstrated us that all of this is worth every minute
of our time because you are here to support us and we will not disappoint you. We created a collection of alluring works, raw and colorful stories, along with inspiring interviews with designers and artists. Thanks to you our first issue is here and itâ€™s alive and we really really hope that it will make your eyes and heart feel as satisfied as ours while you browse it.
Editor in Chief
6 THERE SILENTLY
editorial by Lydia Gorges & Jens Schmidt
24 STUDIO IMPERFETTO
editorial by Camilla Glorioso
32 FROM DUSK TILL DAWN editorial by Ilaria Taschini
50 WANDERING STAR
editorial by Gaia Bonanomi
66 AFTER THE SWEET CRAVING editorial by Lotus & datou
78 MATTER OF INTIMACY
editorial by Arianna Airoldi
editorial by Louise Thornfeldt
102 YOU SHOOK ME
editorial by Manuela Iodice
DON’T LEAVE ME HERE editorial by Ilaria Taschini
EDGELANDS editorial by Sophia Weston
COLORS OF F/W 2017 article by Karolina Gendek-D’Andrea
IMPERFECT IS PERFECT article by Karolina Gendek-D’Andrea
YOU ARE BORING ME article by Karolina Gendek-D’Andrea
THE B. BY FEDERICO BARRAZZO interview with Federico Barrazzo
VOODOO JEWELS interview with Livia Lazzari
REBECCA COLTORTI interview with Rebecca Coltorti
photography LYDIA GORGES & JENS SCHMIDT styling SASKIA SCHMIDT model LINA @ HEARTBREAK MGMT make up & hair SINA VELKE
shirt VETEMENTS, jacket JAROW seen @ ÃˆCOLE BOUTIQUE, trousers VLADIMIR KARALEEV, belt JIL SANDER VINTAGE
shirt VETEMENTS jacket JAROW seen @
ÃˆCOLE BOUTIQUE trousers VLADIMIR KARALEEV, belt JIL SANDER VINTAGE
jacket VETEMENTS, body
LOVE STORIES INTIMATES, necklace SABRINA DEHOFF, socks NIKE
jacket VETEMENTS, body LOVE STORIES INTIMATES, necklace SABRINA DEHOFF, socks NIKE
jacket ACNE STUDIOS, shirt LEVIâ€™S, bra MOSCHINO, skirt MIU MIU, necklace SABRINA DEHOFF
jacket SAINT LAURENT dress PRADA, bra &OTHER STORIES, shoes MIU MIU
jacket TOM FORD, shorts LEVIâ€™S
hoodie VETEMENTS, white zip UPWEEKDAYS
photography CAMILLA GLORIOSO styling MIRRA ELISABET WESNESKI model DINA @ M+P MODELS make up JINNY KIM photo assistant MEIKE LINTHORST
shirt NAYA REA
top AQ/AQ, skirt LE KILT, earrings VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, necklace ALEXIA JORDAN, shoes JEFFREY CAMPBELL
top SHAO YEN
dress OMER ASIM, 30 ring MIANSAI
From Dusk Till Dawn photography ILARIA TASCHINI styling GINEVRA S. MENON model IVA @ THE FABBRICA make up & hair GIOVANNA FUCCIOLO photo assistant NOEMI DE LUCA special thanks to STUDIO 144
unitard BONES, skirt ASOS, belt THE B., choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
unitard BONES skirt ASOS belt THE B. choker DISSID-
top LOST INK, trousers THE B., belt THE B., choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
top & trousers THE B. chokers & bracelets
top THE B., dress
RECLAIMED VINTAGE skirt TRUE VIOLET choker DISSIDIA COUTURE, shoes PUBLIC DESIRE
top THE B., dress RECLAIMED VINTAGE, choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
top ASOS, trousers ASOS, 44 choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
dress & belt THE B. choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
top ASOS, trousers ASOS, choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
dress & belt THE B. shoes PUBLIC DESIRE choker DISSIDIA COUTURE
photography GAIA BONANOMI styling FRANCESCO MIGLIACCIO model SIGRID @ WAVE MGMT make up & hair JESSICA RONGAROLI
dress MIAHATAMI, pants NESS, socks PRADA
dress MIAHATAMI, 52 pants NESS
top MIAHATAMI shirt JUST CAVALLI skirt TRELL, socks PRADA, shoes ZARA
top MIAHATAMI, pants LOEWE, 56 socks PRADA, shoes ZARA
shirt SISLEY, corset ILARY, pants MIAHATAMI
coat (left) FRANCESCA FERRANTE coat (right) ROMEO GIGLI, top ENVIE, shirt PHILOSOPHY BY ALBERTA FERRETTI, skirt TO BE, socks PRADA
top MOSCHINO pants MIAHATAMI socks PRADA shoes ZARA
top MIAHATAMI, skirt 3SUISSES
After The Sweet Craving photography LOTUS & DATOU styling MANCHIT model JULIA SIBI SIBILA make up & hair JOGO STUDIO all clothes TUDOO
Matter Of Intimacy photography ARIANNA AIROLDI styling FRANCESCA MARTORELLI & RAFAELA RUSCA models EMMA @ MP MGMT RIQUELLE @ WONDERWALL make up & hair FRANCESCA MEZZOLI & LUISA ARNONE
dress ELISA BIROLI, belt IVORIES
dress ELISA BIROLI, belt IVORIES
coat SHIRTAPORTER, black body DAIQUIRI LIME, socks sarah borghi
Riquelle wears, blouse RICK LEE, dress GAZEL Emma wears, top GALL DONNA, skirt RICK LEE necklace DESIGN DIGEST
Riquelle wears, denim skirt REIKO, red skirt OTTO D’AME Emma wears, top OTTO 86D’AME, denim REIKO
coat SALVATORE SANTORO, earrings GIULIA BARELA JEWELRY
Riquelle wears, shirt LUCA SCIASCIA, jeans ELISA BIROLI, necklace DIVA GIOIELLI Emma wears, top DEPARTMENT 5, skirt ELISA BIROLI, earrings DIVA GIOIELLI
top MARIOS 90
jacket ANDREA, necklace DESIGN DIGEST
photography & styling LOUISE THORNFELDT model MARIA @ LE MANAGEMENT
shirt VINTAGE, shirt ZARA
shirt VINTAGE, pants ZARA
total look VINTAGE
white shirt VINTAGE, sleeve-less shirt VINTAGE, pants ZARA
shirt &OTHERSTORIES, pants ZARA, shoes STYLIST OWN
You Shook Me
photography MANUELA IODICE styling KAROLINA GENDEK-Dâ€™ANDREA model KATE P. @ NEXT MODELS MILAN make up & hair ROBERTA CAMPONESCHI photo assistant LISA MINU PEPE style assistant MARIA ELENA MELONI
bralet & vest GIORGIA PAPARCONE, trousers GIUSEPPE Dâ€™ANDREA, shoes ZARA
bralet & vest GIORGIA PAPARCONE, trousers GIUSEPPE Dâ€™ANDREA, shoes ZARA
coat MARTA COCCO dress THE B., shoes STYLIST OWN, tights CALZEDONIA
shirt GIUSEPPE BONAFEDE, turtleneck MARTA COCCO, belt & trousers THE B., shoes ZARA, tights CALZEDONIA
coat & bag QUATTROMANI, jumpsuit GHOST BY VALERIA IZZO, shoes ZARA
blouse PRISCILLA ARRESTI,112 trousers AMERICAN APPAREL
Don’t Leave Me Here photography ILARIA TASCHINI styling KAROLINA GENDEK-D’ANDREA model ALI @ MONSTER MGMT make up & hair ROBERTA CAMPONESCHI photo assistant GIANLUCA MARROZZINI style assistant MARIA ELENA MELONI
coat THE B., top AMERICAN APPAREL, skirt FEDERICA TOSI, belt THE B.
STYLIST OWN trousers, tunic & bag THE B.
bomber CARLOTTA FOIS, jeans AROUND, shoes BUFFALO, bag QUATTROMANI
dress & shirt QUATTROMANI, bag THE B., shoes STYLIST OWN
jacket FEDERICA TOSI, dress THE B.
GIULIA MARTINELLI belt THE B.
blouse FEDERICA TOSI, skirt CRISTINA SQUARCIA, belt STYLIST OWN
photography SOPHIA WESTON styling ANDREEA RADOI model MADDIE @ THE HIVE hair PASCAL LOMBARDO retouch DAVID POLLARD assistant SAMANTHA WHEELWRIGHT
shirt HAAL, dress HAIZHEN WANG
shirt HAAL dress HAIZHEN WANG, bodysuit JAMES KELLY socks NIKE shoes ADIDAS
top PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
total look HAIZHEN WANG
total look HAIZHEN WANG
jacket JAMES KELLY, skirt CALVIN KLEIN
top CALVIN KLEIN skirt J JS LEE
jumper JAMIE WEI HUANG, skirt CALVIN KLEIN, green top JAMES KELLY, boots TOPSHOP UNIQUE
jumper HAAL, culottes PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
Colors of f/w 2017
words KAROLINA GENDEK Dâ€™ANDREA images courtesy of WGSN.COM
September. Back to school, back to work, back to daily routines andâ€Ś. back to infinite shopping sprees. Color is the key in choosing the trendy looks for the new season. Apart from the winter ever-green black, designers propose some interesting hues. Here follow the colors we will be wearing next Fall Winter 2017.
Alexander McQueen Gareth Pugh
Preen by Thorton Bregazzi
Nothing new. Black is the always present best friend of every fashionista. But donâ€™t forget to play with textures while choosing it: lace, tulle, velvet, sequinsâ€Ś the possibilities are endless. Preen by Thorton Bregazzi chose transparencies, Lanvin with vinyl coats, Bottega Veneta with velvet , fur sleeves for Gareth Pugh and adorned with brooches for Alexander McQueen.
Comme des Garçons
This seasons shade of pink is not baby-doll style. It is muted, sexy and chic. From Prada’s pretty in pink print and Jil Sander’s lamé dress, to all-over at Gucci; whether blush rose or bright magenta, pink has been a strong feature on the Fall/Winter 2016-2017 catwalks.
Burberry Pringle of Scotland
Another typical winter shade. The runway looks sported mainly wood green and the tones remained dark. Seen in Burberry Prorsum, Prada and Pringle of Scotland
Miu Miu Kenzo
Super bright, feminine and uplifting, lilac might be the the most difficult fall/ winter 2016-2017 color. Wearing it during all those rainy, gloomy and frosty days might be tricky, unless you live in sunsoaked cities like LA. If you dare to try check collections from Wanda Nylon, Kenzo, Miu Miu, Michael Kors, Roberto Cavalli and Todâ€™s.
ACNE Studios Balenciaga
A bold color that will never make you go unnoticed. Itâ€™s not as tricky as bright violet. You can try a total look as seen on the catwalks of ACNE Studios, Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe, Saint Laurent and Comme des GarĂ§ons.
Arthur Arbesser Arthur Arbesser
Spicy Mustard is another daring option for this season. Adding a slightly spicy flavor to you look might be the right move to brighten up this fall. You can choose from all different styles from Arthur Arbesser, Emilio Pucci and 3.1 Phillip Lim, Roberto Cavalli and Jenny Packham, Rodarte, Sportmax, Acne Studios, Gucci, Fendi, Balenciaga, Max Mara and Marc Jacobs.
Imperfect is Perfect words KAROLINA GENDEK-D’ANDREA
Raw authenticity is what we are looking for after years of over-sexualization and editing. Twenty-five years ago Kurt Cobain sang “Come as you are, as you were” – the message that after all this years still has a certain effect on the new generation. Generation Z is leading a new path of social acceptance for all things strange, imperfect and socially rejected. After recent years obsessed with editing the reality, altering the imperfect appearance, filtering the truth, it looks like the society is looking for true and unaltered life.
image by NicolĂ˛ Bagnati, photographer / i-D Magazine
image by Raw Made, creative duo / George Hard @ Miaoran SS17
Alicia Keys is leading the way of the no-make up movement. Rejecting to alter natural appearance and braving bare face during concerts. This new idea is making its way also to the runways of Milan Fashion Week – during Moto Guo fashion show models were seen sporting the latest collection with visible blemish and acne.
teen and William LeGate promotes amazing content without including persona. “We’re drama-free. No trolls, bullying, or negativity, just cool photos and videos” Mateen explains: “On Ponder, every post has the potential to be seen by everyone, so it’s not a popularity contest of how many followers the person posting has”.
We can see the return to brutalism aesthetics in all aspects of modern life: from web design, architecture to fashion magazines. The ugly is becoming interesting, searched for, accepted. Raw authenticity is what we are looking for after years of over-sexualization and editing.
Tired of the follow-for-follow and like-for-like competition, Generation Z is searching for authenticity. The cosmetic and fashion industries are catching up quickly. The new campaigns feature the natural, unfussy and flawed looks.
Millions of teens are committing “social media suicide“ (the term used for deleting all of one’s social media accounts). New wave social apps are trying to catch up with the new trends by turing their back to ego-driven aspects of old social-media platforms. Ponder app created by Tyler Ma-
Imperfections are becoming trendy. Freckles, braces, teeth gaps, visible tattoos and colored short hair few years ago were a no-no for aspiring models. Now agencies are looking for those features, they give the models personality that brands are searching for. Imperfect is becoming the new perfect.
You are boring me words KAROLINA GENDEK-D’ANDREA images courtesy of KABOOMPICS.COM
After a few years of total immersion in new medias, technologies and cultural events, boredom is trending among all the generations.….and it’s a good thing. Why? We can no longer imagine standing in a queue or waiting for the tube without scrolling through Instagram or Facebook. The moment we open our eyes we check the emails, news pages and twitter. We live with our phones glued to our hands in the vain attempt not to get bored.
Can you imagine your computer running on constantly without being reset? We force our brain to be active at all times and we donâ€™t give it the time to relax and just wonder mindlessly. Have you ever thought why the best and most creative ideas strike you in the shower? Our brain
needs breaks, those moments of boredom , to reset and reboot, otherwise it gets constantly bombarded with information that it doesnâ€™t even get the time to process. This is why we should embrace boredom in order to boost creativity and imagination.
The boring movement is spreading around the world. From art and technology, to event planning and advertisement.
Marina Abramovic started to explore boredom back in 2014, and then again later last year, with installations that required visitors to sit at a table and count rice for hours. “If you can’t count the rice for three hours, you can’t do anything good in life” said Abramovic. Going against the fastpaced society the artist embraces the repetitive action of grain-counting as an psychological exercise. Getting lost in tedious tasks teaches us tolerance and patients, feeling bored in the short term can lead to feeling less bored and more creative in a long run. In September of last year, Barbican, the biggest performing art center in Europe, embraced the boredom trend by launching Lost In Thought. The first mindfulness opera in the world that features four hours of...silence, yoga and washing up. Bored? Embrace it!
The B. by Federico Barrazzo images courtesy of STUDIO DMODA
“ I learned to achieve each one of my goals step by step, setting myself to earn one as soon as I earned another ”
Who is Federico Barrazzo? Iâ€™m generally a lover of any element rich of sense, and specifically a Roman designer, born in 1992, who decided to give life to a personal complex view project. In 2011 was born The B, synthesis of a heterogeneous aesthetic observation, voted to a urban-wear reinterpretation of the stylistic coordinates of contemporary fashion. What sparked your interest in fashion? The potential of fashion as a form of expression, so effective and so strong but hidden and delicate at the same time. What is the message behind The B. by Federico Barrazzo? Iâ€™m tempted to speak plural. Overall the aim is to create balances between different stylistic figures, proposing a personal reading.
What is your favorite part about being a fashion designer? The research and design phase which I think is the most important. In order to make your collection stand out you need to have a consistent project. How has your work evolved since you began your own label? Actually there is a continuous evolution. The Brand is currently joining man capsules and accessories, alongside the womanâ€™s line, whose borders are never exclusive or defined.
the strength of feelings. My critical sense and my spirit of visual observation and manipulation come from my fashion styling studies. What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work? Lately I have been living a return to what I perceive as genuine, sincere, any item which transmits me a sense of harmony, naturalness of the body. It clearly affects from the colors to the softness of materials, volumes and silhouettes.
Do you have a specific research process when you start a new collection? I usually start collecting as many stimuli as I can. Sensorial experiences of all kind, not We know you studied fash- just visual. Precisely for this ion styling, how this back- reason it is not a purely styground influence your de- listic fashion-related study. sign choices? I think my It is important to store each path has been crucial. Every element as an enrichment. collection is shaped by a deep research phase which then happens to explode thanks to Are you Iâ€™m ing
you self taught or did study fashion design? self taught, my traincourse was different.
You are going to show your latest collection at SUPER in Milan, tell us more about it and about the new collection. The S/S17 is characterized by a fresh and energetic urban wear. The man charges with an essentially contemporary allure, the woman identifies herself as an underground explorer.
What is the biggest lesson that you have learned since you started your company? I learned to achieve each one of my goals step by step, setting myself to earn one as soon as I earned another, as in a continuous growth.
How do you balance creativity with commerce? At the beginning What is your favorite piece from it is surely more complex to find the new collection? Iâ€™ve never had the right balance. Nowadays it ala favorite piece from any of my most comes naturally to me, itâ€™s collections, it would be reductive. part of my creative process, and it is rightly so. The commercial aspect Who inspires you the most in is fundamental for every Brand. fashion? Anyone who stands out? I think that, fortunately or unfor- What advice would you give tunately, not everybody is able to to young designers? They have stand out, thatâ€™s what make it so to find their own identity, getdifficult. I have many references ting excited with what they in fashion, I do not feel like I can make and continuing to purname a few and exclude others. sue their creative instincts.
Voodoo Jewels by Livia Lazzari photography ILARIA TASCHINI styling KAROLINA GENDEK-Dâ€™ANDREA make up & hair FULVIA TELLONE photo assistant GIANLUCA MARROZZINI
Who is the girl behind Voodoo Jewels? Behind Voodoo Jewels thereâ€™s me, a 29 years old girl inspired by a deep passion for jewelry and craft work. How it all started? Voodoo Jewels is a spontaneously born project: it was all very natural. Making jewelry is my passion since I was little, I studied design and modelling and after some experience in industry companies I have felt the need to create my own project and so I started to experiment with materials and techniques until I found my language and my style. What was the first piece of jewelry you ever made? I think it was a little bracelet made with embroidery beads. I was six and I was traveling in Cremona with my parents, and in the main street, in a dry goods store they bought me six boxes of embroidery beads. I still have those beads. I keep them jealously. How did your designs evolve during the years? The Voodoo Jewels design evolves hand in hand with my craft skills. I studied as a designer and not as a goldsmith: I consider myself as a self-taught artisan; with the passage of the collections my technique has been refined and so my
jewelry has become more elaborate and sophisticated. In addition, the Voodoo Jewels concept itself has evolved with the passing of the seasons. Ideas that were a germ are now crisp and clear in my mind. Tell us more about the new collection. Onirica, the collection Fall / Winter 2016-2017, was born from the attraction for Dream, and contemplates the Moment When the human being comes into contact with the wilder, indomitable and inscrutable aspects of his personality. The creations are the result of a creative flow that does not arise limitations, a set of shapes and colors coming from distant worlds which collide and merge, creating a new and impalpable dimension. The dreamer moves between the conscious and the unconscious, the rational and the irrational; the only rule presiding over the collection is the juxtaposition of geometric and rational forms, the combination of fluid and evocative shapes.
What inspires you most when you start working on a new collection? My collections born from the study of the nature and its many different worlds. The creative process comes always from something that fascinates me, as the shape of a leaf, a stone, the texture of a bark or rippling waves. From that moment on, I let the creativity takes over. I try to develop an idea in greater depth so that the collection could become a complete and coherent tale. Do you have you favorite pieces? Yes, but my selection of the most favorite pieces changes as the seasons pass because Iâ€™m always creating new pieces and I fall in love with them Do you feel more a designer or an entrepreneur? At this time, as I work alone Iâ€™m forced to feel myself both a designer and an entrepreneur, but also a graphic, a communication manager, a CFO.
What type of clients would you like to target? I do not care to define the target of my clients, the only important thing is that people would appreciate the beauty and understand the message of Voodoo Jewels. Which part of the design process do you enjoy the most? The moment in which, starting from an idea I have in mind, I sculpt the wax. The end result is never what I imagined at the beginning, this is the aspect that fascinates me the most. The matter has its own life and the finished object is the result of collaboration between my mind and will of the matter itself. How long does it take to perfect a design? There is not a definite time, just one afternoon or many days.
Where can we find VooDoo Jewels? At the time you can find them in some of the best boutiques like “Degli Effetti” in Rome, Luisa Via Roma in Florence, Antonioli in Milan and L’Eclaireur in Paris. What’s it like to spot someone wearing one of your creations on the street? A great, great satisfaction. How much the upcoming trend influence your creative process? I try, as far as possible not to be influenced at all by the trends. It is the only way to create a unique and innovative product. What is your main next ambition? I have only one ambition. To become a successful designer.
all illustrations by rebecca coltorti
“ I’m currently trying to find a place in this crazy chaotic world “
Who is Rebecca Coltorti? Rebecca is basically a super random person. she has strange passions and a real love for visual arts. sheâ€™s currently trying to find a place in this crazy chaotic world.
How it all started? It started from nothing actually. I always been attracted by female beauty and that’s why I used to draw female models portraits. But then this passion for the black and white realistic drawings started to chock me. I wanted to try new techniques mostly using digital editing. Fashion allowed me to mix all these things and to be free to experiment. What inspires you when creating a new collage? The picture itself. I always try to keep its beauty and work on its inner soul. To make it more attractive and unique than it was before.
Can you take us through the process of a particular project? How does it all start and how do you proceed? I can talk about ‘Intangible’, the editorial I’ve been working on for Idol Magazine. It has been my first print publication ever, that is why it is so special to me. The editor contacted me and sent me the brief with a few reference pictures. There were 2 main difficult aspects: the big amount of pictures to do - about 20 - and the research of 185
the right compositions. I remember spending a lot of time cutting patterns and elements from magazines, which I scanned. There are also parts of pictures that I’ve take from internet; you can even see famous paintings pieces. So I digitally made the compositions. I usually prefer collaging with Photoshop because it allows me to explore many more options. This is the project that in absolute took me more time and one of my favorite.
Do you start & finish one piece before starting another or you work on more projects in the same time? I do prefer to start & finish one piece before starting another because it keeps me more focused but sometimes the deadlines are urgent and my preferences are not contemplated.
Which artists influence you the most? Quentin Jones is my muse. Her works introduced me in this world and made me realize I wanted to do this as a job.
What is your next big dream project? Working with great and famous photographer for the most important magazines in the world.
you want to do without worrying about trends.
What is your advice for young artists? Be whatever you want to be and do whatever
How would you describe your personal style? C h a m e l e o n , quirky and bold.
After your exhibition in Scotland â€“ can we expect any new exibition soon? This is something I really do not know, but I can say that pretty soon you will see my works on clothes.
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the birth issue s e p t . 2 0 1 6
The Birth Issue // Sept. 2016