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the examination by the end of the second year. For some however, it may take another three or four years before they can try their hand. The clock starts ticking after that first exam. If three attempts are not enough for you to pass both your Theory and Practical Examination, it’s over and out. If you pass either the Theory or the tasting examination, there is only a limited timeframe in which to pass the other. Many students don’t make it to the finish line. Life as an MW graduate may be wonderful, that of an MW student is rather limited. Your whole life revolves around passing an exam, which at times seems unattainable. British wine writer Jancis Robinson once said that ‘doing the MW Exam is a bit as I imagine climbing Everest: great when it’s over’. My Dutch colleague René van Heusden also drew a parallel with sports: ‘When you start with the Master of Wine, keep in mind that it is like a triathlon, an Elfstedentocht (the Dutch 120-mile speedskating race) followed by cycling up a mountain of the most difficult category, and swimming across the English Channel on the home straight.’ Maybe that is why there are more astronauts than MWs? In any case, there must be something wrong with you in order to voluntarily write three essays a day for an entire week, under time pressure and only 45 minutes after you have had to blind taste twelve wines in the morning, again under time pressure. And having answered fifteen pages of questions about those wines. I mean, after tasting twelve wines it is difficult enough to stand up straight, never mind writing scientific essays about malolactic fermentation or the impact of exchange rates on the wine business.” The fact that Cees can make light of it now, is because he passed his exams in 2009, which enabled him to start with the third phase of the MW − his dissertation. What did you choose as your subject? “Whether Chenin Blanc should be considered South Africa’s ‘signature variety’. There are many arguments in favour, and a few against. For instance, Chenin is the Cape’s most planted grape. And you’ll find it in any wine region in South Africa, cool or warm. The oldest vines are often Chenin Blanc, as it was one of the three varieties Jan van Riebeeck brought with him in 1652. Then again, Chenin Blanc – because of its high yield – has, for a long time, been used to produce everyday plonk. As a result, it doesn’t have a very good reputation in export markets such as the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. Because of that image, I decided to vote against. But year by year, Chenins from the Cape continue to improve, and I’m sure it is just a matter of time before the grape will be acknowledged as a signature variety.” Is tasting a natural talent? “Not at all. Tasting is a matter of practice. It does help though when it is your passion, otherwise tasting at MW level may become a very difficult task.” What is your tasting ritual? “First, I check out the wines’ appearance, then I smell them. Smell is my most reliable sense. It captures ninety percent of
62 | The South African Dream
the wine for me. Even with the wine in my mouth, that retronasal aspect is pivotal. Your taste buds change as you get older, but your sense of smell remains stable. I will then taste the wine. The acidity, residual sugar, tannin, mouthfeel and concentration are particularly important.” Having a cold is a disaster? “Yes. You literally won’t taste a thing.” Are you a morning taster? “Of course, tasting is something I do in the morning, just like all professionals. I do have breakfast, but I won’t drink coffee before tasting.” When did you have your first glass of wine? “I come from a catholic background and once, when I was an altar boy, I secretly tried some of Christ’s haemoglobin.” The Netherlands is not known as a wine country. Doesn’t that put you at a disadvantage? “Many people think the French, Italians, and Spanish are natural born wine tasters. The fascinating thing is that they do know everything about making wine, and a lot about wines from their own region, but very little about foreign wines as they are not available in these classic winemaking countries. Because there is hardly any wine produced in the Netherlands and thus we have to import the wines from the world, we need to know about them. This in contrast to the French who only drink their own wines.” Why did you want to excel in wine? “During my 14 years at DSM − an international chemical company −, I spent four years in New Jersey, working in the perfume industry (Ha! Hence the nose, ed.). At a networking function, I met Michael Aaron of Sherry Lehmann, New York’s leading wine merchant. He offered me a job in New York’s wine trade, on the condition that I would become a Master of Wine. I had never even heard of it, but thought to myself: why not?! My first application to the Institute in 1994 didn’t work out. They recommended I first get five years practical experience, and then try again. A polite rejection! Although disappointed, I now knew this was something I really wanted. The MW then became kind of my purpose in life.” Eventually, you were accepted. “Once back in the Netherlands, in 1996, I first went for my Wine Certificate, and then enjoyed studying vinology at the Wine Academy. I also started to write part-time. In 1999, I applied once again and was accepted.” What does a Master of Wine do? “I do three things: consultancy, training, and publishing. As a consultant, I advise globally, but I specialize in export coaching. I do so mainly in developing countries, like Bolivia and Peru, on behalf of CBI, the Center for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries, which is part of the Dutch