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THE WAREHOUSE

Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili

THE MAGAZINE FOR SICK & TIRED PRESENTS

BERLIN+MILAN FASHION WEEK JANUARY 2014


THE SIXTH ISSUE FASHION WEEK SPECIAL

AUTUM/WINTER 2014 - 2015


WWW.THEWAREHOUSETEAM.TUMBLR.COM


The new year brings us new resolutions and hopes. For m see, you never know where your luck brings you. Exactly friend’s room while dreading for the next cold day to unexpected trip to Milan for Men’s Fashion Week. As if th for its annual Mercedes Benz Fashion Week AW 2 Branderburger gate.

In such a momentous event, The Warehouse is proud straight from the runways in Milan and Berlin.

The Fashion Week issue is fully inspired by a visual adven fashion week. Naive thoughts always come along and th see things from more than one perspective. Being Fash always a must.

! XOXO Kevin Holicka k.holicka@jacobs.university.de


me, it gives an opportunity of a lifetime. You a year ago, I was just hibernating in my best o come. 2014, however, brings me to an hat wasn’t enough, Berlin was waiting for me 2014 - 2015 right behind the grotesque

d to present our very own exclusive report

nture that one encounters in his/her very first hat is why here at The Warehouse we like to hionable is a necessity but being curious is


The Oxford Dictionary definition of a warehouse is ‘a large building where raw materials or manufactured goods may be stored prior to their distribution for sale.’ In our case, the raw materials are our poems, our pictures, our thoughts, and of course our words. What the first members of the Warehouse thought was missing at Jacobs University Bremen, was a forum which enabled and facilitated creation, no matter how twisted or odd. A warehouse keeps things fresh. A warehouse needs to be filled and replenished, yet the key is indeed in the distribution. -NAOMI V. ROLAND, FOUNDER.


PERSONALITIES

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DETAILS

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HUMANS OF FASHION WEEK

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FASHION WEEK REPORT

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MALTE HELLIGSØE

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NORMAN DAUSKARDT

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THE SKINS WE LIVE IN

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FOUNDER Naomi Verbong Roland Valentina Uribe Restrepo

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin Holicka

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MANAGING EDITOR Julia Psilitelis CREATIVE EDITOR Gabriela Constantin-Dureci

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BEAUTY EDITOR Vivian Urquidi MUSIC EDITOR Hauke Ziessler

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PHOTOGRAPHY Mati Jhurry (MILAN) Zuka Babunashvili (BERLIN)

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MUSIC FEATURE Malte Helligsøe Norman Dauskardt

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THANKS TO Andy Suryandi

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COVER Mads Dinesen AW2014

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LAYOUT & DESIGN Kevin Holicka


THE WAREHOUSE PRESENTS

PERSONALITIES Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili Words by Kevin Holicka

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PERSONALITIES 14th - 17th JANUARY 2014 STRASSE DES 17. JUNI BERLIN

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WE ARE HUNTING EVERYONE FROM ALL WALKS OF FASHION. THE MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK IN BERLIN NEVER LACKS A STAR. HAILING FROM BERLIN AND BEYOND, THEY ALL STEAL THE SPOTLIGHT BEFORE, IN-BETWEEN, AND AFTER THE RUNWAYS. THE REASON WHY BERLIN IS IN THE FRONTIERS OF FASHION IS BECAUSE OF ITS SARTORIAL CROWDS ON THE STREET. CURRYWURST IS NEVER ON OUR AGENDA.

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THE WAREHOUSE PRESENTS

DETAILS Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili Words by Kevin Holicka

Our day started with a glass of champagne which immediately brought our consciousness together. But there’s so much to catch up during fashion week when we realised that the real gems could be found in the little things that everyone had mix and match creatively together.

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Berliners never forget the past. Hence, the Winter 2013 2014 in the capital attracts vintage beauty and elegant colours roaming around the streets. At the same time, there is always a place for edgy mix and bold statements. This is Berlin, after all.

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THE LITTLE THINGS THAT MATTER!

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THE WAREHOUSE PRESENTS

HUMANS OF BERLIN FASHION WEEK Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili Words by Julia Psilitelis Berlin Fashion week: Its history, the

This January, the Berlin Fashion Week

role of Christiane Arp, and youth

turned 14. At the bi-annual event more

Fashion in Berlin.

than 3000 labels presented their collections on different fairs. However,

While in the beginning years of the

as usual, everything circulates around

Berlin Fashion Week heavy weights

the presentations at the main location at

such as Hugo Boss dictated the show,

Brandenburger Tor. Here, an exclusive

a new generation took over after most

circle of fashion editors and bloggers

of the well-established designers

has the chance to glimpse, together

moved to the “grown-up” versions in

with commercial buyers, at the latest

New York, London, Paris, and Milan.

trends. The fashion week offers more

Just like freshmen the young designers

than runway shows and parties for an

learned a lot from the seniors before

exclusive circle. In recent times, youth

those left. In 2014, the freshmen from

fairs such as "Bread & Butter Berlin,”

earlier times became juniors. They

which presents street- and urbanwear at

know the business and what they want

the abandoned airport Berlin-

but still have to make their way into

Tempelhof, will start opening their

the senior class.

venue for the general public this year.

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Another element connecting the actors

Many designers try to convince the

of the fashion week and the general

audience by employing younger

public is Christiane Arp. Leading the

models and creating the slogan

German Vogue since 2003 as the editor-

describing youth as a feeling rather

in-chief, she does not seem as evil as her

than a life-phase.

American counterpart Anna Wintour. The native from northern Germany studied fashion design in Hamburg before entering journalism. In over 10 years at Vogue Germany, she created a distinctive style – not only regarding the magazine but also in her diplomatic contact with creatives and designers.

Youth is presented as a positive alternative to adulthood. However, youngsters distinguish themselves from those who only dress in youth fashion. They do not have to prove that they are not adults and do not follow a “youthful” trend. Teenagers and young adults create innovative

She emphasises the trade of fashion. It is

looks, apart from the fashion week,

important for her to know what people

t h a t a re a l t e r n a t i v e a n d v e r y

actually buy and not only what she

individual. While designers are

personally likes. Nonetheless, her taste

important, the main stage is the

is often validated by sales numbers.

street.

Asked about her opinion of the future of the Berlin Fashion Week she replied:

In recent years, one could follow a democratisation in fashion. It is not

“I’d love to have more people come and

only a hobby for a selective circle but

look at our young talents. Sometimes

perused by a mass of youngsters

there is a young talent out there who

interested in communicating

isn’t ready for their own collection but

something through their style.

could be ready to be the assistant of a

Therefore it would be wrong to talk

d e s i g n e r. N o t e v e r y b o d y i s a n

about trends when one looks at

entrepreneur and our designers have to

young adults making up the fashion

be these days” (Fashion Week Daily).

avant-garde. The pieces do not have

Despite the noise around the fashion week one should not forget Berlin’s yearround role in youth fashion. Youth is still the beauty ideal and serious business.

to be new or expensive. They do not have to be worn by a certain individuals and are sometimes even bought second hand. The only thing youth fashion nowadays must do is to mirror an individual’s personality. Very Berlin, indeed.

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“WE KEEP FASHION WEEK ALIVE BEHIND THE SCENE!”

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THE WAREHOUSE EXCLUSIVE

AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 - 2015

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MILAN TOM REBL.

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BERLIN IVANMAN, LENA HOSCHEK, MARC STONE MALAIKA RAIS, RIKE FEUERSTEIN, MADS DINESEN PATRICK MOHR, REBEKKA RUÉTZ.

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PHOTOGRAPHERS MATI JHURRY (MILAN) ZUKA BABUNASHVILI (BERLIN)

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WORDS KEVIN HOLICKA


THE DARK ELEGANCE OF MEN’S FASHION #EDGY #BLACK #SENSUAL


TOM REBL AW 2014

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MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK


IVANMAN AW 2014 A CELEBRATION OF MEN’S FASHION IN VIBRANT COLOURS. #CLASSY #ELEGANT #DANDY


LENA HOSCHEK AW 2014

VA VA VOOM. WE, LOVE YOU TOO, LENA HOSCHEK! #LADYLIKE #SENSUAL #CHARMING


HIGH STREET MEETS HIGH FASHION #COOL #FRESH #MINIMALISM


MARC STONE AW 2014


MALAIKA RAIS AW 2014

THE PATRON OF FEMININE BEAUTY IN BERLIN

! #BEAUTIFUL #FEMININE #SOPHISTICATED


RIKE FEUERSTEIN AW 2014

THE ALICE WONDERLAND IN THE MAKING

! #CHIC #COLORS #FUN


PATRICK MOHR AW 2014 THE LABEL WITH A VISION

! #BOLD #DREAMLIKE #ATTITUDE


MADS DIN AW 20

THE REBELS I

#REVOLUT

#EDG

#ECSTA


NESEN 014

IN FASHION

TIONARY

DGY

TATIC


REBEKKA RUÉTZ AW 2014 A LADY IN THE MAKING

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#ELEGANT #SASSY #CHIC


THE WAREHOUSE PRESENTS

MALTE HELLIGSØE My work is just me playing around with my laptop. There's no gear, no pressure and no deadlines. This hobby approach to production means that I just make whatever I think sounds good. That usually ends up being some form of electronica with housey influence because I listen to a lot of house and always lots of high hats.

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Which one is your own favourite track? “Freed” because I cared less about the music sounding ‘right’. That’s something I’ve been trying to do since.

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Whose music have inspired you? Recently it’s been Burial, Daniel Avery, Recondite.

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What are your favorite tracks right now? Burial - Rival Dealer. Wenu Wenu - Omar Souleyman. Drake - Come Thru (James Blake Version)


BASED: Copenhagen, Denmark

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SOUNDCLOUD: https://soundcloud.com/hllgs

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MALTE'S MUSIC HAVE BEEN FEATURED ON TWO OF OUR VIDEOS!

CLICK HERE TO WATCH

CLICK HERE TO WATCH


THE WAREHOUSE PRESENTS

NORMAN DAUSKARDT Well the most songs do have a straight beat and I often work with soft pads and deep melodies. I guess you can describe it as melodic idm with a lot of melancholy.

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Which one is your own favourite track? I really like "Dacota Birth" and "Fate is what remains". Both tracks are characterised by a strong melodic leading theme and supported by linear heavy drums. That`s a combination tat works really good for me.

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Whose music have inspired you? Well I guess I am influenced by electronic artists like Boards of Canada, Tycho and Lusine. But I am also inspired by classic pop artists like The Beatles, Cocteau Twins or PJ Harvey.

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What are your favorite tracks right now? Boards of Canada – Turquoise Hexagon Sun (brilliant electronic beats) Radiohead – Karma Police (the truth!) The Smiths – How Soon Is Now? (I love the voice of Morissey)


BASED: Berlin, Germany

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SOUNDCLOUD: https://soundcloud.com/th-e-n-d

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NORMAN'S MUSIC HAVE BEEN FEATURED ON OUR LATEST VIDEO!

CLICK HERE TO WATCH


VIVIAN URQUIDI PRESENTS

THE SKINS WE LIVE IN "Animals are not ours to eat, wear,

Image:The Guardian

experiment on or use for entertainment."

It’s hard to disagree with most if

So, a step forward but I’m not

not all of that particular organization

about to advocate in favour of them.

ethos. People for the Ethical Treatment

PETA is preceded by its reputation, a

of Animals, or PETA, is the proud

reputation which may seem callous at

trademark owner of this catchy slogan

first glance but is undeniably well-

and are an NGO fighting for “complete

deserved. Among its many wrong-

animal liberation” which is an extremely

doings, acts of domestic terrorism such

vague statement but I think I get what

as the burning of research buildings in

they mean. Their demonstration aiming

the United States are not a satisfactory

to abolish fur-use in fashion at the Berlin

method of having your voice heard and

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was tame

neither is the abuse of misogynistic, fat-

and, one could almost admit, well done.

phobic, and racist media tropes in an

Perhaps too subdued to actually inspire

attempt to equate animal to human

any sense of the bone-chilling cruelty

suffering. Moreover, contradicting acts

involved in fur farming, it really is a step

such as mass dog euthanizing at their

forward from PETA’s oft too garish and

main Norfolk facility after failure of

borderline obscene displays of flailing

finding homes for strays (we are talking

fur-clad or (as their founder and

about 10,000 dogs killed in 2003) is not

president Ingrid Newkirk prefers) naked

something easily ignored.

women covered in fake blood.

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PETA claims not having enough

and many more advocating the

money to feed the animals they take

same (often more concrete) ethos often get

from shelters and rescue from

overshadowed by the sheer volume of

laboratories but in 2004 alone received

PETA’s ghastly advertising.

29 million dollars from donations. Only roughly 1% of their estimated budget is used in animal care, with the grand majority going to legal bills for the defence of their convicted arsonists. A pretty sobering reality considering they advertise themselves as animal lovers. Alas, PETA is by no means entitled to flaunt an inflated sense of moral superiority if as an organization it fails time and time again to successfully uphold their ethos.

The debate regarding animal welfare is saturated with tabloid-worthy scandal, accusations aimed to inspire outrage for the sake of it without any sensible and mediated discussions on the philosophical and moral dilemmas of human and animal behaviour and experience and how these may overlap or differ. The main reason why PETA is such a huge threat to animal welfare is because it immediately polarizes the argument, radicalizing the layman who is still unsure

In the factory farm front, PETA is

of how to proceed and who to support

said to have achieved some major

instead of aiming to provide people with

milestones in regards to policy changes

viable alternatives to a lifestyle largely

that would improve the living conditions

shaped by corporate since the inception of

of livestock and chickens. It may be both

factory farming in the 1950’s.

sides to blame, but specific documents regarding these changes are nearly impossible to access and such “success” stories are but a collection of vague, flowery sentences to be found on their website with the only link available on the particular page being one for recruitment. For an organization which demands transparency from corporate it surely does not practice what it preaches on that front either.

Regardless of PETA’s questionable practices, the fashion industry must still be criticized. If it is indeed impossible for the industry to dispense of Angora fur (despite Oslo Fashion Week proving otherwise by going fur-free) than the least they could do is ensure that the fur utilized originates from the natural moulting cycles of these rabbits (roughly three times a year), and is not in fact plucked from the live animals. However, since 90% of Angora fur currently

It is a shame that others

comes from China, where no penalty exists

organizations such as Compassion in

for animal abuse, companies still interested

World Farming, The Blue Cross, AWI with

will have their hands full in creating and

their legislative branch SAPL -

enforcing ethical policies.

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But if we are going to talk ethical fashion, let’s peel far beyond these hides and demand extensive and publicly available documentation of product sourcing and the entirety of its supply chain, from the raw materials required for spinning the threads to the treatment and condition of the workers such a task employs and alternative job options if you choose to abolish a branch of production (i.e. fur farmers being given an alternative source of income). How about minimizing the carbon print of global distributions and conscientious disposal of production wastes? How about appropriate regulation for surplus garment donation instead of incinerating it in order to maintain some warped, classist concept of “scarcity”? You want to talk ethics, you talk about all its constituent components, be it plant or animal life (including human welfare), the environment, and the respective economic model the brand ascribes to. These things have been done before, so it is high time to demand these practices of all clothing and apparel brands regardless of their targeted consumer market. Fashion, though certainly a phenomenal venue for design innovation, artistic exploration, and self-expression, is (perhaps for those very qualities) indulgent – but not for that reason should we allow it to be cruel. Think fur is so passé, me to! Sign here to put it out of style for good.

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THE DREAM ISSUE WWW.THEWAREHOUSETEAM.TUMBLR.COM

Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili

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CURIOUS?

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K.HOLICKA@JACOBS-UNIVERSITY.DE

COMING SOON


THE SIXTH ISSUE

Photographed by Zuka Babunashvili

WWW.THEWAREHOUSETEAM.TUMBLR.COM

Founded by Naomi Verbong Roland & Valentina Uribe Restrepo! Layout & Design by Kevin Holicka

ISSUE/SIX/FASHIONWEEK  

The Sixth Issue

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