Draping Period Costumes
By the 1840s, the general silhouette of the man was set, with only small alterations from period to period. The triumvirate of coat, vest, and long trousers continue their reign over the proper gentleman to this day. There were, however, several different styles of coat which were designated as appropriate for specific occasions—the Norfolk Jacket (often worn with kneelength pants or “knickerbockers”) for hunting, riding, and other sporting or country pursuits, the Tail Coat for evening, the Frock Coat and Morning Coat for daytime business wear, and the Sack Coat for more casual occasions.
Draping the MidNineteenth-Century Frock Coat The mid-nineteenth-century Frock Coat had a much less feminine silhouette than its predecessor. With some minor adjustments to the line of the lapel opening and the front edge, the basic shape of the Frock Coat can be used to pattern the Morning Coat and Tail Coat as well. 1. Cut a piece of muslin as long as the man’s shoulderto-waist front measurement plus six inches and one-quarter as wide as his chest measurement plus four inches. 2. Draw the SOG line three inches in from the selvage edge of the muslin. Draw the cross-grain line seven to eight inches down from the top edge. Starting at the top edge of the fabric, cut the SOG line down until the neck.