Variety of Silhouette in Eighteenth-Century Women’s Costumes
2. Pin the CF seam from the CF neck to waist. Mark the bottom of the CF neck opening as per the design (it will be at or near the top of the corset). 3. A few inches from the neckline, fold the fabric under to create a wide pleat at the shoulder seam. Continue the pleat a few inches beyond the shoulder seam onto the back. This pleat will eventually connect to the back neckline facing with a mitered corner. Pin the pleat only at the mitered corner and at the shoulder seam. At, or slightly beyond, the armhole fold under another wide pleat. This second pleat will also extend beyond the shoulder seam, but not quite as far. As with the first pleat, pin only to the end of the pleat and the shoulder seam so the rest of it hangs freely.
4. Drape and clip a deep armhole with a dart similar to the one in the Robe a l’Anglaise (hidden under the second pleat). Drape the side seam. Below the waist seam, fold under two two-inch pleats. The last return should end at the side seam. Cut off all extra muslin but one inch of seam allowance