Variety of Silhouette in Eighteenth-Century Women’s Costumes
5. From the bottom of the side (back) seam pin, the muslin to the waistline of the front of the bodice, stopping at the true side seam. Cut off all but one inch of seam allowance above the waist seam. Hold out the remaining muslin on the cross grain and wrap it around the pannier from the back toward the front. Pin it to the petticoat to hold it in place. Use a tape or ribbon to ascertain what will become the side seam. Pin small tucks over the “hip” of the pannier to control the extra fabric. Mark the side seam and cut off all but one inch of seam allowance.
6. For the front of the skirt, cut a piece of muslin four inches longer than the waist-to-floor measurement. Draw in the front edge/SOG line and press the seam allowance under. Because the front of the bodice waistline dips down, measure two to three inches down from the top edge of the skirt front and pin it to the front of the waist seam of the bodice. This point begins at the inner fold of the second pleat on the front of the bodice. Angle out the front edge (SOG) to create the inverted “V” opening of the skirt. Pin the rest of the waist seam. Pin the side seams together.