Draping Period Costumes
9. Drape one return, one pleat, and one return forward to match up with the pleats on the front piece.
10. Create the curve of the coat hem as directed in instruction #8 for the early-eighteenth-century coat. As with the early-eighteenth-century coat, the CB seam can be curved in at the waist for a tighter fit.
Draping an EighteenthCentury Vest (Waistcoat) Draping the man’s vest or waistcoat is very similar to draping the man’s coat. There are, however, several important differences. The foremost, which makes it much easier to drape, is the vest’s lack of pleats. Instead of pleats, the side seams can remain open from waist to hem. Other differences are as follows: • The vest may or may not have sleeves. If there are no sleeves, you can cut the armholes larger for greater comfort. • The vest is shorter than the coat. Early on the difference was not more than an inch or two. By the middle of the eighteenth century, the bottom of the vest sits at hip length or above. • The vest is more likely to be worn closed than the coat is. • The back of the vest is sometimes only waist length or a few inches longer. It is also often cut out of a plainer, less expensive fabric. Take this into consideration when estimating yardages. It could either save you some money or allow you to afford to spend a little more on your “fashion” fabric. • If the back is cut at full length, there will be no pleats or underlap in the skirt.