...While the Women Remain Tightly Corseted
11. The back neckline of the Mantua usually has an applied border. This can be draped using a strip of fabric cut on the SOG. The SB corners will match up with the first pleat. Draw in the back neckline and cut out all but one inch of seam allowance from both the neckline border and the Mantua itself.
12. Clip into the side seam allowance at the waist. Create two small (one to two inches deep) pleats just below the waist into the side seam as you did in step #8. Pin together the front and back seams of the “skirt” inside the side pleats. If you are using standard forty-fiveinch-wide muslin, chances are good that one or both sides of the side seam will be too short. If so, add length along the selvae edge matching the SOG.
13. Pick a point along the front opening edge at approximately the woman’s ankle length and pin the point to the CB of the waist. Arrange the folds as desired.