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food+drink Side Dishes « P.43

Moog's Joint

MOLLY ZAPP

Fisher is a longtime cook and a punk rock drummer who toured for eight years with the band Off With Their Heads. Living on the road, he gravitated toward buffet eating. “I love a variety of food,” he said. “That’s my jam.” A “variety of food” can be found on the poutine Fisher makes at the counter-service eatery he owns and operates with his girlfriend, SHANNON SHEPARD. Priced at $10 to $15, most of the poutines start with fries, curds and Fisher’s gluten-free gravy; he also makes veggie gravy for his vegetarian and vegan poutines. One of his poutine variations is the North Shore 3-Way, with slow-roasted top round, James River BBQ Sauce, American cheese and griddled onion roll aioli. It’s a nod to a popular sandwich in Fisher’s home turf of Billerica, Mass. Another poutine, called Aren’t We Doing a Pastrami One?, features smoked pastrami, yellow beer mustard and a house pickle. Vulgar Display of Poutine builds on the mobile outfit of the same name that Fisher operated for three years in Lowell, Mass. He named it for the Pantera album Vulgar Display of Power. “Pantera is my favorite band of all time,” Fisher said. “The name kind of stuck and was a little too perfect for me personally.” In 2016, he notched up a best-poutine victory at NH PoutineFest in Merrimack, N.H., for a variation called A.P.I.G. (All Pork Is Good). The poutine, which ran as a special last weekend in Island Pond, features 16-hour pork shoulder, bacon-onion jam, crispy

shiitake mushrooms and scallions. Vulgar Display of Poutine is open Thursday through Sunday. Fisher plans to extend the hours soon. Sally Pollak

If locals still have free gas station coffee from 2017 on their minds, that’s an indication of the state of Johnson. With the notable exception of DOWNTOWN PIZZERIA & PUB, the college town has lacked nightlife and dining options for some time. Now comes Moog’s, which is open nightly until 1 or 2 a.m. and serves elevated pub food. Crab cakes, mussel chowder and burgers grace the menu, developed by MATT LEBLANC, who was previously chef at

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Fresh Joint MOOG’S JOINT OPENS IN JOHNSON

In the former Long Trail Tavern building, which most recently held Hogback Snacks, MOOG’S JOINT was hopping on its second evening open in late August. Owner and Johnson resident TOM MOOG, who also owns 8-year-old MOOG’S PLACE in Morrisville, buzzed around the restaurant, bar and live-music venue chatting up customers. A mix of Lamoille County musicians had played the house piano the night before; that Friday, Moog projected a live-streamed Phish concert. Locals seemed thrilled that the place was open. “It’s the most exciting thing in Johnson since MAPLEFIELDS reopened and gave out free coffee,” deadpanned Johnsonite RAY KANIA.

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HARRISON’S RESTAURANT AND BAR in Stowe. Vermont

microbrews and inventive cocktails make up the drink list; DON HORRIGAN, formerly of EDSON HILL in Stowe and the SCALE HOUSE in Hardwick, bartends. Moog said he hopes his second restaurant will help “create new ideas and new events that help Johnson and bring the town together.” He plans to host local and touring musicians “just about every night,” he added, and is open to a variety of genres. “I’d love a punk show,” he said. “And let’s not forget about hip-hop.”

SEPT. 28TH 3-8PM AT SWITCHBACK BREWING CO., 160 FLYNN AVENUE, BURLINGTON, VT

BEER MUSIC FOOD ART EXPLORING ALL THINGS

SMOKED, FIRED, AND FLAMED!

Molly Zapp

TICKETS & INFO AT SWITCHBACKVT.COM

CONNECT Follow us for the latest food gossip! On Twitter: Sally Pollak: @vtpollak. On Instagram: Seven Days: @7deatsvt; Jordan Barry: @jordankbarry. Untitled-81 1

SEVEN DAYS SEPTEMBER 11-18, 2019

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