Page 1

Bags

the Modern

Classics

Sue Kim

• Clutches, Hobos, Satchels & More • 19 Projects • 75+ Bags


Bags

the Modern

Classics

• Clutches, Hobos, Satchels & More •

Sue Kim


Text, how-to photography, and illustrations copyright © 2011 by Sue Kim Style photography copyright © 2011 by C&T Publishing, Inc. Publisher: Amy Marson Creative Director: Gailen Runge Acquisitions Editor: Susanne Woods Editor: Liz Aneloski Technical Editors: Janice Wray and Gailen Runge Cover Designer: Kristy Zacharias Book Designer: April Mostek Page Layout Artist: Casey Dukes Production Coordinator: Jessica Jenkins Production Editors: Julia Cianci and S. Michele Fry Illustrator: Tim Manibusan Photography by Christina Carty-Francis and Diane Pedersen of C&T Publishing, Inc., unless otherwise noted Published by Stash Books, an imprint of C&T Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be used in any form or reproduced by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission from the publisher. The copyrights on individual artworks are retained by the artists as noted in Bags—The Modern Classics. These designs may be used to make items only for personal use, for donation to nonprofit groups for sale, or for display at events, provided the following credit is included on a conspicuous label: Designs copyright © 2011 by Sue Kim from the book Bags—The Modern Classics from C&T Publishing, Inc. For any other use, permission must be requested in writing from C&T Publishing, Inc. Attention Copy Shops: Please note the following exception—publisher and author give permission to photocopy pattern pullout pages P-1–P-4 for personal use only. Attention Teachers: C&T Publishing, Inc., encourages you to use this book as a text for teaching. Contact us at 800-284-1114 or www.ctpub.com for lesson plans and information about the C&T Creative Troupe. We take great care to ensure that the information included in our products is accurate and presented in good faith, but no warranty is provided nor are results guaranteed. Having no control over the choices of materials or procedures used, neither the author nor C&T Publishing, Inc., shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this book. For your convenience, we post an up-to-date listing of corrections on our website (www.ctpub.com). If a correction is not already noted, please contact our customer service department at ctinfo@ctpub.com or at P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549. Trademark (™) and registered trademark (®) names are used throughout this book. Rather than use the symbols with every occurrence of a trademark or registered trademark name, we are using the names only in the editorial fashion and to the benefit of the owner, with no intention of infringement. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Kim, Sue, 1969Bags, the modern classics : clutches, hobos, satchels & more / Sue Kim. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-60705-388-0 (soft cover) 1. Handbags. 2. Tote bags. 3. Sewing. 4. Fancy work. I. Title. TT667.K52 2011 646.4’8--dc22 2011007725 Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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Bags—The Modern Classics


{ contents } Acknowledgments  4 Introduction  5

Sewing Terminology  6 Useful Information  9

Choosing Your Fabric  20  Small Bags 

 Clutches 

Sunglasses Case  23

Glenda Clutch  47

Pencil Case  28

Elegance Pleated Clutch  52

Betty Wallet  32

Uptown Clutch  58

Wristlet Zipper Purse  38  Large Bags  Lovely Clarissa Bag  65

Sweet Annemarie Bag  100

Veronica Day Bag  74

Easy Lazy Bag  116

Cute Elizabeth Bag  86

Rebecca Bag  128

Chic Hobo Bag  70

Floral Bag  108

Metro Shopping Bag  80

Elva Bag  122

Urban Carryall Bag  92

Smart School Bag  136 Resources  143

About the Author  143

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{ contents }


{ acknowledgments } If I were to describe the whole process of writing a book in one word, I would probably call it an adventure. During this adventure my biggest supporters were my husband, Jung, and our three lovely children—Chan, Caleb, and Veronica. They have always been here for me as my best friends and counselors. I also would like to thank June and Calvin, who have made numerous samples for me and have assisted in countless ways with this and other projects. I express my thanks to the members of the C&T team who have helped with all the publishing-related business, especially Susanne and Liz. During the editing process, Janice supported me immensely. Thank you so much to everyone. Thank you to Michael Miller Fabrics, Robert Kaufman Fabrics, and Amy Butler Designs for wonderful fabrics, and to Marvin and Julia of Miami Leather Company for supplying me with authentic Canadian leather. Also thanks to Michelle from Kallisti Quilts, who supported me with rare fabrics. In addition to these people, I would like to thank my friends John, Sara, Aaron, Mary, Patrick, and Betty, who offer me endless support and help. Also, thanks to my family friends, Leo and JinSol. Thank you, too, dear reader! May you enjoy many pleasant hours as you read and sew!

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Bags—The Modern Classics


{ introduction } The main function of bags and clutches is to hold and carry items; however, bags also provide a way for you to express yourself through fashion. That is why you spend time looking for the perfect bag—and why you’re willing to pay more when you find it. Choosing a bag that represents your uniqueness is not an easy task, but it’s a great excuse to shop . . . or sew a one-of-a-kind treasure. This book will teach you how to make your own brand of handmade bags. Most of the bags use simple patterns, easy enough for the beginner. Note each project’s level of difficulty before you begin. Levels of difficulty are explained on page 19. If you are a beginner, you can start by using the simpler patterns. Then, after you are familiar with the process of making bags, you can progress to bags involving more challenging techniques. If you haven’t made bags before, the projects might look complex, but if you follow the instructions one step at a time, you will realize that you need to learn only a few techniques to make beautiful one-of-a-kind bags. If you start with the simpler projects, you will gain confidence as you gain experience. Then the more complex projects will be easier to envision and to make. Don’t expect to be able to produce extraordinary creations perfectly right from the start; expect rather to move through the learning stages, improving your skills with each bag. Having an open mind and setting the goal of finishing a simple bag is the first step. So don’t be afraid—just jump into the wonderful world of making bags. When I first started making bags, I had a hard time deciding which fabrics to use. Should I use this fabric or that one? One day, after watching me worry for quite awhile, a friend commented that in the time I spent worrying about which fabric to use, I probably could have made several bags. She was right. Now, rather than wasting my time worrying about a potential failure, I just make the bag. And if I am unhappy with the finished product, I choose a different combination of fabrics and try it again. This is a more efficient way of working, and I am able to make a lot more bags. It works for me, and I’m sure it will work for you. Fabric always looks more beautiful in the finished product than it does folded on the table. So don’t be afraid to follow your instincts—just get started!

5

{ introduction }


{ sewing terminology } Seam allowance The area between the edges of the layered fabric and the line of stitching.

Straight stitch A simple stitch and the most often used form of machine stitching.

Basting Long hand or machine stitches used to temporarily hold two or more pieces together.

Backtacking Backtacking is usually used to secure the beginning and ending of a line of machine stitching. Sew a few machine stitches forward, sew a few stitches backward, and then sew forward to complete the line of stitching. At the end of the seam, sew a few stitches backward, and then sew forward to end the row of stitching.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


Slip stitch A type of stitching used to secure layers together almost invisibly by hiding the stitches between the layers. I prefer to use a double thread.

1. Thread a needle, and knot the end of the thread. Insert the needle into the fold of the fabric and pull the thread taut to hide the knot between the layers of fabric. (Use a thread color that matches your fabric—a shade darker will hide your stitches better.)

2. Insert the needle into the fold of the

opposite layer of fabric, and pull the thread taut. Repeat as needed. Knot or secure with several stitches, and cut off the thread.

Top stitch A line of machine stitching on the right side of the project. It is used for decorative purposes and also to press and reinforce the project. I like to use a fancy thread since it will show on the right side of the project.

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{ sewing terminology }


Clipping Making small cuts on inner curves (concave seams) to help them lie flat when turned to the right side. Always clip within the seam allowance and never through the stitching.

Notching Removing small wedges of the seam allowance on outer curves (convex seams) to remove excess fabric, helping the seams lie flat when turned to the right side. Always notch within the seam allowance and never through the stitching.

Trimming Cutting away excess fabric in seam allowances to remove bulk, allowing seams and corners to lie flat.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


{ useful information } What Tools to Use an asset when making bags, as these rulers can be useful when cutting strips of fabric for the handles.

The main tools needed to make bags are a sewing machine and needles, scissors, pinking shears, a seam ripper, a ruler, marking pencils, and pins.

Use chalk or wax marking pencils to accurately transfer important construction lines and matching points from the patterns to the fabric.

You don’t need a fancy, high-end sewing machine to make the bags in this book. Two features to keep in mind when selecting a sewing machine: an easy-to-change bobbin and comfortable sewingspeed control.

Any pins that are sold at sewing or fabric shops will work fine.

Making and Using the Patterns

The size of the sewing machine needle you use is based on the fabric and thread you choose. Refer to the instruction manual for your sewing machine for guidance.

The patterns in this book are found on the pullout sheets and are usually presented either as halfpattern pieces, which need to be cut on the fold of the fabric, or as corner templates, which are traced onto precut fabric rectangles. The rectangles are then trimmed along the traced lines.

When it comes to scissors, I recommend goodquality fabric scissors, which can easily be found at a fabric store. To keep your scissors sharp and in good working order, be sure to use these scissors on fabric only. Pinking shears cut a decorative edge that will help prevent fraying. A rotary cutter and mat are helpful but not necessary.

The easiest way to create the patterns or corner templates for your chosen bag is to lay a piece of white paper over the pattern on the pullout sheet and trace it. Taping the pullout sheet to a window, with the paper on top, will help the lines show through. If the pattern is larger than your paper, simply tape sheets of paper together to create a piece large enough to trace the pattern.

You will probably need a seam ripper to safely rip out adjustments and mistakes. I recommend that you have a 6˝ × 12˝ rectangular ruler, or even a 6˝ × 24˝. Having both would be

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{ useful information }


Using the Half-Patterns Option 1: Fold your fabric along the straight grain, and place the center fold line of the pattern on the fold. You may want to pin the layers together to keep them from shifting. Trace around the pattern with a marking pencil, and cut out the piece through both layers. If you have 2 pieces to cut from the same pattern, either fold 2 layers together, or fold 2 pieces of fabric separately and stack them, matching the folds. Trace around the pattern, and cut out the pieces through all the layers at the same time.

Option 2: Place the pattern onto a single layer of fabric with the center fold line on the straight grain. Trace around all sides except the center fold line. Flip the pattern over, keeping the center fold line in place, and trace the other half of the design. If you have 2 or more pieces to cut from the same pattern, simply place the layers right sides together. Trace around the pattern, and cut out the pieces through all the layers at the same time.

Fold

You have two options for using the half-patterns to cut out the fabric pieces.

Center line Place pattern on fold. Trace around pattern, and cut through all layers.

Flip and trace.

Trace.

Center line Place pattern on center fold line, and trace one side.

Center line Flip pattern over, and trace other side.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


Using Iron-on Interfacing

Using the Corner Templates Many of the rectangular pieces are cut according to cutting measurements given in the instructions, and then corner templates are used to round out the corners. Always cut the rectangles on the straight grain of the fabric, unless otherwise noted.

The thickness of the fabric and the bag’s design will determine the thickness or stiffness of the interfacing you should use. If I were to make a clutch out of quilting cotton, I would use medium or heavyweight interfacing to give the lighterweight fabric more body. However, if I were to use home decorator fabric, I would use a lighter interfacing so it doesn’t become too stiff. For bags whose form is crucial to the design (such as the Rebecca Bag, page 128), it is best to use heavyweight interfacing; for bags whose design requires a looser, more natural shape, it is better to use lightweight rather than heavyweight interfacing.

Trace the required corner template (as given in the project instructions) onto a piece of white paper. Cut around the curve, and square up the top and side. Position the corner on the corresponding fabric piece, aligning the side and bottom edges, and trace the curve. Trim along the traced line. Be sure to also mark the pieces according to the diagrams given in the project instructions. Flip the piece over, and repeat with the opposite corner or corners.

The thicker and heavier the interfacing, the more challenging the project will be to sew. So it is best for beginners to start off with lightweight interfacing and then move up to heavier-weight interfacing with practice. Shape-Flex (from C&T Publishing) is a good all-purpose fusible interfacing.

Flip template.

Always test interfacing on a scrap to be sure you get the desired result. You are also testing for shrinkage and adhesive show-through. When you are satisfied that you have chosen the correct interfacing for your fabric, place the fabric piece on your ironing board wrong side up. Center the interfacing on top of it, adhesive side down. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely, because each fusible is different.

1. Trace and trim away corner. 2. Flip corner template over and repeat. Use corner templates to shape rectangular pieces.

 caution 

If the interfacing is ironed with

the fusible side up, the interfacing will stick to your iron rather than to the fabric.

11

{ useful information }


Attaching Hook-and-Loop Tape Most people use magnetic snaps when making the closure for a bag or a clutch. But for some bags, such as a pencil case or schoolbag, it is more practical to use hook-and-loop tape. Hook-and-loop tape is also used in places where magnets cannot be attached, such as on wallets, and can also be used for attaching pockets and other parts.

1. Cut a piece of sew-in hook-and-loop tape the size you need.

2. Separate the 2 parts, and place 1 piece of the hook-

and-loop tape on the fabric. Sew around all 4 edges, backtacking at the starting and ending points.

3. Place the other piece of hook-and-loop tape on the corresponding piece of fabric, and sew around all 4 edges, backtacking at the starting and ending points.

Sew hook-and-loop around all 4 edges.

Shortening Zipper Length For the bags in this book requiring zippers, an allpurpose zipper is all that is needed. If you want to use a zipper that is too long, you can shorten it to fit, as follows: Measure the desired length of the zipper to find where the new bottom stop should be. Machine zigzag over the coil or stitch over the coil several times by hand to create a new bottom stop. Trim away the excess zipper 1/2˝ below the stitching.

Desired length

Sew. Cut.

Shorten zipper.

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Bags—The Modern Classics

½˝


Adding a Magnetic Snap You should attach the magnetic snap following the manufacturer’s instructions, but here’s how it is generally done:

Position metal support over snap position.

1. Cut a piece of interfacing

approximately 11/2˝ ×  11/2˝. Center the interfacing over the marked snap position on the wrong side of the fabric and fuse it in position. Then center the metal support piece on top of the interfacing, over the marked snap position.

Insert magnetic snap piece.

4. From the right side of the

fabric, insert the prongs of a magnetic snap piece.

Trace metal support piece.

2. Trace around the metal support piece, including the holes for the prongs.

Fold prongs away from center.

5. Place the metal support of

the snap over the prongs. Fold the prongs away from the center over the disc.

13

{ useful information }

Snip holes for prongs through all layers.

3. Carefully snip the holes for the prongs, through all the layers.

Completed half of magnetic snap

6. Repeat Steps 1–5 to attach

the other half of the magnetic snap to the corresponding piece of fabric.


Making a Pocket There are several ways to make pockets. Here is my favorite method to achieve a strong pocket. It uses two layers of fabric and includes a hook-andloop closure, but you can omit the closure if you don’t want it.

1. Cut out the pocket pieces as described in the

project instructions, or cut 2 pieces of pocket fabric approximately 7˝ wide × 6˝–7˝ deep.

Sew hook-and-loop tape to lining side of pocket.

2. Cut a 4˝–5˝ length of hook-and-loop tape

for the pocket closure, if you are adding one. Center one piece of the hook-and-loop tape on the right side of a pocket fabric piece, with the top edge of the tape 1˝ from the top edge of the fabric, and sew around all 4 edges, backtacking at the starting and ending points. This will become the lining side of the pocket.

3. Pin the pocket pieces together with right sides

facing, and sew around all 4 sides using a 1/2˝ seam allowance, leaving 4˝ unstitched along the top edge (nearest the hook-and-loop tape) for turning. Trim the corners.

Sew pocket, leaving opening for turning.

4. Turn the pocket right side out, and use a sharp

tool to carefully push the corners out. Fold the raw edges of the opening to the inside, and press the pocket. Pin the opening, and from the exterior side, topstitch the top edge 1/8˝ from the edge, backtacking at both ends. The folded-in edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Topstitch along top edge, from exterior side.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


5. Position the pocket on the bag lining as

described in the project instructions, with the hook-and-loop tape facing the lining. Fold back the pocket to reveal the hook-and-loop tape, and mark the corresponding location for the other piece of hook-and-loop tape onto the lining. The markings should be straight and centered on the lining.

6. Place the remaining piece of hook-and-loop

tape over the markings on the bag lining, and sew around all 4 edges, backtacking at the starting and ending points.

Sew hook-and-loop tape to right side of bag lining.

7. Reposition the pocket on the bag lining,

adhering the hook-and-loop tape pieces together. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

Sew pocket to bag lining.

15

{ useful information }


Sewing Darts and Pleats Darts 1. Transfer the A and B points from the pattern to

the fabric. Fold the fabric, and match and pin the A points, with right sides together. Align and pin carefully, so the darts on the front and back pieces will match up perfectly when they’re sewn together. Place another pin at point B.

B A Pin, sew, and press darts.

2. Sew the dart seam from points A to B, back-

tacking at both ends. Press the darts in the direction indicated in the project instructions

Pleats 1. Referring to the pattern, fold each pleat on

the fold line, in the direction indicated in the project instructions, and align the 2 match lines, with right sides together.

2. Pin the folded pleats to secure them. They will

Pin or baste pleats.

be stitched when the corresponding pieces are sewn together. However, you may also choose to baste them in place at this time.

Making Bias Binding Instructions are for making 1/2˝-wide double-fold bias binding.

1. Cut bias strips 17/8˝ wide. Trim the ends of the strips at a 45° angle, if needed, before proceeding to Step 2.

Cut strips 17/8˝ wide.

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Bags—The Modern Classics

B A


2. Place 2 strips right sides

together, matching the 45° angles, and stitch along the

45° angle with a 1/4˝ seam allowance. Continue adding strips to achieve the length you need. Press all the seams open, and trim off the extra little triangles that extend past the edge of the strip.

Sew strips together at 45° angle.

3. Fold the bias strip in half

lengthwise, with the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the strip with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the strip 3/8˝, and press.

Fold strip in half lengthwise, and press.

4. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press.

Open out strip, fold in side edges, and press.

Fold again.

17

{ useful information }


Making Piping Piping is a decorative trim or embellishment that you can buy, or you can easily make your own from bias strips and cording. To determine the width to cut the bias strips, measure the circumference of the cord and add 1˝ for a seam allowance.

Place bias strip with cord in center.

1. Cut bias strips, and piece them into the length

you need (see Making Bias Binding, Steps 1 and 2, pages 16–17). Place the bias strip wrong side up with the cord in the center.

2. Fold the strip in half, align the raw edges, and pin.

Fold strip, and pin.

3. Stitch very close to the cord using a zipper foot or a piping foot.

4. Lay the piping on the right side of the fabric,

with the stitching directly over the seamline with a 1/2˝ seam allowance. To apply piping to a curved seam, clip or notch the curved edge only as necessary to help the piping fit around the curve smoothly. Pin or baste in place.

Stitch very close to cord.

Pin piping in place.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


Adding a Label Adding a label to a completed bag makes the piece look more professional. Labels of cotton or linen are sold in stores. It is also a lot of fun to make or purchase personalized labels. A label can be sewn to the bag lining or the bag exterior before construction, or it can be sewn to the bag exterior, through all the layers, after the bag is completed. Glue, fold, and press under the raw edges before sewing to prevent fraying. A label can also be sewn into a seam on the bag exterior as it is being constructed. Fold the label in half, wrong sides together, and pin where desired before stitching the seam.

Levels of Difficulty The projects have been rated with a level of difficulty.

Glue raw edges of label, then press.

, 

, or Sew folded label into seam during construction.

These are the easiest projects to make. They have the fewest pieces to sew together and require only straight or matching curved seams. They usually have just a few features, such as simple darts or a pocket in the lining, and they generally have magnetic snap or hook-and-loop tape closures. These projects have a few more pieces to sew together, but still require only straight or matching curved seams. They have added features, such as pleats or darts and sometimes a zipper, a pocket in the lining, or a handle that is made separately and must be attached. These projects generally have the most pieces to sew together. Some seams involve sewing a straight edge to a curved edge or smoothly sewing inside corners. They have the most features: a combination of pleats or darts, zippers, binding, and separate handles to make and attach.

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{ useful information }


{ choosing your fabric } Many beginners are overwhelmed when trying to choose fabric. Becoming comfortable with selecting fabric will make it much easier to enjoy sewing for years to come! Let’s start by taking a deep breath and imagining that we are at the fabric store.

Pick the Main Color First If you are planning to sew a quilt, you have to choose many colors. However, for a bag you’ll need a maximum of two or three different colors. First, choose the color you like best for the main color. If you have trouble selecting a second color, remember that the shop staff is always willing to help. Be sure to choose the main color yourself, or your bag will end up looking like someone else’s project. Part of the satisfaction you will gain from your creation is knowing that you, and not someone else, chose the fabric.

At the Fabric Store Regardless of how much fabric is available in the store, almost every fabric store organizes its fabric the same way. Once you understand how the store organizes fabric, you won’t be overwhelmed, no matter how much fabric is displayed.

Two Tips for Choosing Fabrics

Fabric is usually organized by the type of material and then grouped by color. Quiltingweight cotton is usually the largest section. Home decorator and quilting-weight cotton are the only types of fabric you will need for the projects presented in this book.

Choose the main fabric, and then for a second color, select a contrasting color with the same style. It is a good idea to choose the second color from a fabric line designed by the designer of the main fabric. The designer has likely already chosen colors that work together well.

Consider the Bag Shape and Size When choosing a fabric, you should always have in mind the pattern you are going to make. A fabric may be pretty, but it might not look good in that particular pattern. Initially, you will find it much easier if you consider fabrics that are similar to the pictures in this book; later, when you are more experienced, it will be easier to look at other styles of prints. The choice of print also depends on the size of the bag you’re going to make. The basic principle—for beginners, anyway—is that the smaller the size of the bag, the smaller the fabric’s print should be.

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Bags—The Modern Classics


Online Ordering If you must purchase fabric online, expect the unexpected to arrive. Why? The colors shown on your computer screen will be different in real life because of the limitations of computer screens and the quality of the images. Another thing that might surprise you about the fabric when it arrives is that the feel of the material; it can be very different from what you may have imagined.

Strive to Be a Satisfactionist, Not a Perfectionist

It may be impossible to avoid purchasing online if your local quilt store does not have the selection you want, but there is a way to increase your success rate when ordering online. Let’s say you would like to purchase a fabric from designer A. If your local fabric store doesn’t carry that particular fabric, the store might have at least one or two fabrics from that line. After taking a look at and feeling the fabric, you will be able to guess what the fabric ordered online will be like.

When selecting fabric, guard yourself against becoming a perfectionist, because if you do become one, your fabric shopping will never end. To be a perfectionist when shopping for fabric, you’ll need to look at every fabric—but there are too many fabrics for this to be possible. Telling yourself that you can choose a fabric only after looking at all fabrics is the same as telling yourself that you can’t choose any fabric.

Another way to lessen the failure rate is to purchase a charm pack (a package of several small squares of fabric) that includes the fabric you want. I love buying charm packs because they usually include the whole line in a small-size sample. If you get a charm pack, you will be able to look at all the colors in the line, and as a bonus create a patchwork fabric to use to make a bag.

If you are, say, around 70–80 percent satisfied when picking the fabric, then go for it. Try not to think too much about it, and don’t be afraid to have a trial-and-error mind-set! In the time that you spent trying to make a decision, you could have made another bag.

21

{ choosing your fabric }


Small Bags 22

Bags—The Modern Classics


{ sunglasses case } How can you keep your sunglasses safe? Invest an hour and make a sunglasses case! Add piping on the flap for a special touch. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Sunglasses Case Front/Back and the Sunglasses Case Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: 71/2˝ × 33/4˝ SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1/4 yard for exterior 1/4 yard for lining

3/8 yard of 22˝-wide fusible fleece interfacing 14mm magnetic snap 3/4˝ button

123/4˝ of piping (optional): purchase or make your own (see Making Piping, page 18)

23

{ sunglasses case }


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 piece 71/2˝ × 4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Sunglasses Case Flap Corner template.

Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces. 2. Attach the magnetic snap to the exterior front and on lining flap pieces as marked (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

3. Sew the darts on the exterior front and back pieces, and the lining front and back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16).

4. Press the darts on the front pieces toward the center. Press the darts on the back pieces toward the outside edge.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 piece 71/2˝ × 4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Sunglasses Case Flap Corner template.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Sew front darts, and press toward center.

Cut 1 piece 71/2˝ × 4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Sunglasses Case Flap Corner template. Center Magnetic snap (Lining only) 7⁄8˝ Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Sew back darts, and press toward outside edge.

Flap diagram

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Bags—The Modern Classics


5. Pin the front and back exte-

rior pieces with the right sides together. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat.

6. Sew around the side and

bottom edges, backtacking at each end. Notch the seam.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for

Sew side and bottom edges.

the lining.

8. Press the exterior and lining

seams open. Turn the exterior right side out. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

9. Pin the exterior and

lining together around the top opening.

Insert exterior inside lining.

Pin around top opening.

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{ sunglasses case }


10. Sew around the opening,

leaving 3˝ unstitched for turning. Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the opening, including the seam allowances of the unstitched opening, and pin.

11. Topstitch around the

opening 1/8˝ from the edge. The folded-in edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Turn, press, and pin opening.

Making the Flap 1. If you are adding the optional

piping, baste it to the exterior flap around the curved edge (see Making Piping, page 18). Pin the exterior flap and lining flap with right sides together. Stitch around the flap, leaving 3˝ unstitched on the top straight edge for turning. Trim the corners, and notch the curved seam. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

Stitch around flap, leaving 3˝ unstitched.

2. Turn right side out. Press,

and topstitch 1/8˝ from the curved seam only. Tuck in the seam allowances on the unstitched opening, press, and slipstitch the opening closed. Topstitch curved seam only.

26

Bags—The Modern Classics


Finishing the Bag 1. Center the flap on the back of the exterior, with the straight edge along the flap stitching line, and pin in place. Check the position of the magnetic snap, and adjust the flap if needed.

2. Topstitch the flap in place, 1/8˝ from the straight edge, backtacking at both ends.

3. Sew the button to the exterior flap in the desired location.

Finished! Enjoy the SUN!

Pin flap to back.

27

{ sunglasses case }


{ pencil case } This easy pencil case is a great project for using up fabrics left over from other projects. Use hook-and-loop tape if you plan to use it as a pencil case, or magnetic snaps work well if you’re planning to use it for some other purpose. You can use either home

decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric. This makes a great back-to-school gift! Use the Pencil Case Front/Back Corner and the Pencil Case Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-4.

FINISHED SIZE: 71/2˝ × 3˝ SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

1-fabric option 1/4 yard for exterior

2-fabric option 81/2˝ × 8˝ for exterior front and back

81/8˝ × 31/4˝ for exterior flap

both options In addition to the above, you will also need: 1/4 yard for lining

3/8 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

4˝ of 1/2˝-wide hookand-loop tape

28

Bags—The Modern Classics


tips

CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

ʦʦ Do not use hook-and-loop tape

from the stationery section of the

exterior

store. It is often too thick and can

Cut 2 pieces 81/2˝ × 4˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/ Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Front/Back Corner template.

damage your sewing machine

needle. Use hook-and-loop tape intended for fabric; it is softer and easier to sew.

Cut 1 piece 81/8˝ × 31/4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Flap Corner template.

ʦʦ When storing your hook-and-

loop tape, be sure not to wrinkle it. Folds are okay, but wrinkles

lining

can create a challenge when you

Cut 2 pieces 81/2˝ × 4˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/ Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Front/Back Corner template.

attach the tape to your project. If yours gets wrinkled, place a

heavy object on top of it to help

Cut 1 piece 81/8˝ x 31/4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Flap Corner template.

flatten it.

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 81/2˝ × 4˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/ Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Front/Back Corner template. Cut 1 piece 81/8˝ × 31/4˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Pencil Case Flap Corner template.

Center

1¼˝

Hook-and-loop tape (Lining only)

Hook-and-loop tape (Exterior front only)

1˝ Center Trim corner. Front/Back diagram

Trim corner.

Trim corner. Flap diagram

29

{ pencil case }

Trim corner.


Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces.

2. Separate the hook-and-loop tape, and

attach the softer piece to the exterior front as marked (see Attaching Hook-and-Loop Tape, page 12). Sew the rougher half to the lining flap as marked.

Sew hook-and-loop tape.

3. Pin the exterior front and back pieces with the right sides together. Sew around the side and bottom edge, backtacking at both ends. Repeat with the lining front and back pieces, leaving 3˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

Sew exterior front and back together.

4. Notch the curved seams.

Sew lining front and back together, leaving 3˝ unstitched.

Notch curved seams.

30

Bags—The Modern Classics


Making the Flap 1. Pin the exterior flap to the lining flap

with the right sides together. Stitch only the curved seam, leaving the straight edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

Press and topstitch flap.

2. Turn the flap right side out. Press, and topstitch 1/8˝ from the seam.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining

Pin and baste flap to exterior back.

1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Center the flap on the back piece of the case, with the exterior sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

3. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with

right sides together, sandwiching the flap between the exterior and the lining.

Insert exterior inside lining.

4. Pin the exterior and lining together around the opening of the case.

5. Sew around the opening. Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out. Slipstitch the opening in the lining closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the case.

Pin around opening.

6. Topstitch around the opening 1/8˝ from the edge.

Turn, and press.

31

{ pencil case }


{ betty wallet } The exterior of this wallet can be made using one piece of fabric (1-fabric option) or using many pieces sewn together and treated as one (patchwork option). Once you learn how to make bias

binding, you’ll love the effect it adds—and it’s easier than it looks! If necessary, consider adding interfacing on both the exterior and lining pieces to give extra body and stability to the wallet. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/Pocket Corner and the Betty Wallet Card Holder patterns on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: 4˝ × 8˝ (closed) SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

1/4 yard for 1-fabric option exterior or 4–5 different fabrics, approximately 6˝ × 9˝ each, for patchwork option exterior 1/4 yard for lining

1/4 yard for pocket and card holder

3/8 yard for binding (to make your own bias binding, see page 16) OR 1 yard of 1/2˝-wide double-fold bias binding (purchased)

1/4 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing 3˝ of 1/8˝-wide elastic 1˝ button

32

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior 1-fabric option Cut 1 square 8˝ × 8˝ for the exterior. Refer to the Exterior/Lining diagram (page 34) to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Betty Wallet Exterior/ Lining/Pocket Corner template.

patchwork option A 1/4˝ seam allowance is included. Cut piece A: 51/4˝ × 8˝. Cut piece B: 1˝ × 8˝.

Trim patchwork exterior. Note: The wallet in this photo has 5 fabrics instead of 4. You can create your own patchwork however you like it best.

Cut piece C: 23/4˝ × 41/4˝. Cut piece D: 23/4˝ × 41/4˝. Make the exterior patchwork from pieces A, B, C, and D following the Patchwork exterior illustration, using 1/4˝ seams. Press the seams, and topstitch the patched exterior as shown. Trim, if needed, to 8˝ × 8˝. Then refer to the Exterior/Lining diagram (page 34) to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/ Pocket Corner template.

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

C

A

B

D

Trim corner. Patchwork exterior

Trim corner.

33

{ betty wallet }


lining

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Cut 1 square 8˝ × 8˝ for the lining. Refer to the Exterior/ Lining diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/ Pocket Corner template.

Center elastic.

Center button.

Trim corner. Exterior/Lining diagram

Trim corner.

¼˝

Fold line

pocket and card holder

Trim corner. Pocket diagram

Trim corner.

Cut 1 piece 61/2˝ × 8˝ for the pocket. Refer to the Pocket diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/ Pocket Corner template. Cut 1 Card Holder piece, taking extra care to transfer the fold lines and placement lines accurately.

interfacing Cut 1 square 8˝ × 8˝. Refer to the Exterior/Lining diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/ Pocket Corner template.

Sewing the Exterior 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior piece.

2. Fold the elastic in half to

make a loop. Center the elastic loop on the side edge of the exterior as marked; baste the elastic loop in place.

Baste elastic loop in place.

34

Bags—The Modern Classics


Making the Pocket and Card Holder pocket

1. Fold the pocket in half length-

wise along the marked fold line, wrong sides together, and press.

Topstitch pocket fold.

2. Topstitch 1/8˝ from the fold. card holder

1. Referring to the markings on

the pattern, fold the card holder, wrong sides together, along Fold Line 1, and press. From the right side, bring Fold Line 1 to Placement Line 1. Press.

Fold Line 1

Fold along Fold Line 1, wrong sides together.

Placement Line 1

Fold Line 1

From right side, bring Fold Line 1 to Placement Line 1.

Fold Line 1 aligned over Placement Line 1

Align Fold Line 1 with Placement Line 1. Press.

35

{ betty wallet }


2. Repeat with Fold Lines and Placement Lines 2 and 3.

3. Fold Line 4 should be folded toward the wrong side of the card holder. Press.

4. Topstitch each of the 4 folds

Fold Fold Line 4 to wrong side, and press.

1/8Ë? from the edge.

5. Place the pocket and the

card holder onto the lining as shown, aligning the corners and raw edges, and baste. Stitch a line down the center of the card holder to make 2 card-size pockets, backtacking at both ends.

Topstitch 4 folds.

Sew card holder and pocket to lining.

36

Bags—The Modern Classics


Adding Bias Binding

Press short end of binding under 1/4˝, and begin pinning.

1. Refer to Making Bias Binding, page 16, to make 1 yard of 1/2˝-wide double-fold bias binding, or use purchased binding.

2. Place the exterior and the lining with

wrong sides together, making sure the elastic loop on the exterior is placed over either the pocket or the card holder. Baste around the edges. Unfold the bias binding, and press a short edge under 1/4˝. Working from the exterior side and starting along a straight edge, begin pinning the raw edge of the binding to the outside edge of the wallet, with right sides together.

3. Pin the binding in place all the way

around, easing around the curves so they fit smoothly. When you reach the end, lap the binding over the folded-in end. Trim away the excess binding, leaving a 1/2˝ overlap. Complete the pinning.

Pin binding to wallet, easing corners and preparing to overlap short ends.

4. Stitch the binding in place along the crease line closest to the edge. Fold the binding over toward the lining to encase the raw edges. Pin in place through all the layers.

5. Topstitch the binding 1/8˝ from the inner

fold of the binding, through all the layers. Sew the button to the exterior as marked.

Pin binding in place through all layers.

37

{ betty wallet }


{ wristlet zipper purse } Make this purse with or without the wrist strap. Learn to add a zipper while making this project. Make the top and pleat panels using different or the same fabric. You can use heavyweight home decorator or quilting-weight cotton.

Use the Wristlet Zipper Purse Top Panel Corner (large or small), the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel Corner (used for both sizes), the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel (large or small), the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner (large or small), and the three Wristlet Zipper Purse Corsage Petals (optional) patterns on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: 91/2˝ × 51/4˝ (large) or 6˝ × 43/4˝ (small)

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

large or small 1-fabric option 1/4 yard for top panel, pleat panel, and exterior back

2-fabric option 1/8 yard for top panel

1/4 yard for pleat panel and exterior back

both options In addition to the above, you will also need:

1/8 yard for wristlet strap (optional) 1/4 yard for lining

1/4 yard of 22˝-wide lightweight fusible interfacing

10˝ all-purpose zipper for large size 6˝ all-purpose zipper for small size

optional corsage 3 fabric scraps, 3˝ × 3˝ each 1/2˝ button

38

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric. Refer to the diagrams (page 40).

large exterior

optional wristlet strap

Cut 1 piece 101/2˝ × 3˝ for the top panel. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Top Panel Corner: Large template.

Cut 1 strip 3˝ × 17˝ for the strap.

lining Cut 2 pieces 111/8˝ × 61/4˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Large template.

Cut 1 piece 161/2˝ × 41/4˝ for the pleat panel. Refer to the Pleat Panel: Large diagram to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel Corner template. Using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel: Large template, align the template along the top edge of the fabric, and mark the top row of pleats. Move the template to the lower edge, and mark the bottom row of pleats.

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 111/8˝ × 61/4˝ for the front and back, and then trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Large template.

Cut 1 piece 111/8˝ × 61/4˝ for the back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/ Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Large template.

39

{ wristlet zipper purse }


small Cut 1 piece 7˝ × 21/2˝ for the top panel. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Top Panel Corner: Small template.

Center

Trim corner.

Cut 1 piece 101/4˝ × 41/4˝ for the pleat panel. Refer to the Pleat Panel: Small diagram to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel Corner template. Using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel: Small template, align the template along the top edge of the fabric, and mark the top row of pleats. Move the template to the lower edge, and mark the bottom row of pleats.

Trim corner.

Top Panel diagram Center

Trim corner. Pleat Panel: Large diagram

Trim corner.

Cut 1 piece 75/8˝ × 53/4˝ for the back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/ Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Small template.

Center

optional wristlet strap Trim corner.

Cut 1 strip 13/4˝ × 15˝ for the strap.

Trim corner.

Pleat Panel: Small diagram Trim corner.

lining Cut 2 pieces 75/8˝ × 53/4˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Small template.

Trim corner. Center

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 75/8˝ × 53/4˝ for the front and back, and then trace and trim all 4 corners using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Small template.

Trim corner. Trim corner. Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram

optional corsage Cut 1 of each petal using the Wristlet Zipper Purse Corsage Petals patterns.

40

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Pleat Panel and Top Panel 1. Pin the top row of pleats along the top

edge of the pleat panel (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Make sure the pleats fold toward the center.

Pin top row of pleats on pleat panel.

2. Pin the pleated edge of the pleat panel

to the curved edge of the top panel with right sides together. Stitch, backtacking at both ends. Press the seam allowance toward the top panel, and notch the curved seam. Topstitch the top panel 1/8˝ from the seam.

Sew pleat panel to top panel, and topstitch.

Adding the Strap 1. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, with

the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the strap with the wrong side facing you. For the large size, fold in each side of the strap 1/2˝, and press. For the small size, fold in each side of the strap to the center crease, and press. For both, fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ away from the folded-in sides.

Pin strap to left side edge of top panel.

2. Fold the finished strap in half crosswise. Pin and baste it onto the left side edge of the top panel, with the center crease 3/4˝ down from the top edge.

41

{ wristlet zipper purse }


Installing the Zipper 1. Referring to the photo, close the zipper,

and place it on the top panel with right sides together. Position the zipper pull 5/8˝ from the side edge of the top panel, and then align the edge of the zipper tape along the upper raw edge of the top panel. Trim the excess zipper tape from the opposite side edge, but not closer than 1/4˝ from the zipper stop. If you need to trim away more of the zipper, see Shortening Zipper Length (page 12).

Position zipper on top panel, and trim tape if needed.

2. Pin the zipper to the top panel. Using

a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the top panel 1/8˝ from the edge of the tape, leaving a 1/2˝ seam allowance at both ends. Backtack at both ends.

Pin lining front to top panel, with zipper in between.

3. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side

of the lining front. Pin together the top edges of the lining front and the top panel, with right sides facing. The zipper will now be between the top panel and the lining.

4. Using a zipper foot, sew the 3 layers

together close to the zipper coils, leaving a 1/2˝ seam allowance at both ends. Backtack at both ends.

Topstitch top panel close to zipper coils.

Attach exterior back and lining to other side of zipper.

42

Bags—The Modern Classics


5. Flip the lining over to the wrong side,

and press. Topstitch the top panel close to the zipper coils through all the layers, leaving a 1/2˝ seam allowance at both ends.

6. Repeat Steps 2–5 to attach the exterior

back and lining back pieces to the other side of the zipper.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining

Sew exterior front and back together.

1. Open the zipper before continuing.

Pin the bottom row of pleats along the lower edge of the pleat panel. Place the exterior front and back pieces with right sides together, flipping the zipper coil toward the lining. Pin and stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the opposite side (but not over the zipper coil), backtacking at both ends. When stitching the exterior, do not sew into the lining.

2. Pin the lining front and back pieces

with right sides together, and sew in the same manner as in Step 1, but now sew carefully over the zipper coil. Leave 4˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning. Notch the curved seams. Trim the exterior and lining to a 1/4˝ seam allowance.

Sew lining front and back together.

3. Turn the purse right side out through

the opening in the lining. Using a turning tool, push out the curved corners. Press the purse flat. Slipstitch the opening closed.

43

{ wristlet zipper purse }


Making the Corsage 1. Layer the 3 petals, right side up and with the largest on the bottom. Draw a 5/8Ë? circle in the center of the top layer, as indicated on the pattern.

2. Stitch a running stitch around the

drawn circle through all the layers, pull the thread to gather, and fasten to secure. Place the button in the center of the gathered circle. Sew the button in place through all the layers. Position the corsage on the purse at the desired location. Sew in place.

Stitch running stitch around circle.

Sew button in place.

44

Bags—The Modern Classics


45

{ wristlet zipper purse }


Clutches 46

Bags—The Modern Classics


{ glenda clutch } This is a great project for beginners or anyone wanting a quick, beautiful gift. Also,

if you would like to use up some leftover fabric, it is the perfect project to get started

on! Choose the perfect button to make it uniquely your own. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Glenda Clutch Front/Back Corner and the Glenda Clutch Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-3.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 73/4˝ × 5˝ × 1˝

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1/4 yard for exterior 1/4 yard for lining

1/2 yard of 22˝-wide mediumweight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap 1˝–2˝ button or bead (optional)

47

{ glenda clutch }


Trim corner.

Trim corner.

CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

Center

exterior Magnetic snap (Exterior front only) B

Cut 2 pieces 103/8˝ × 61/2˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Glenda Clutch Front/Back Corner pattern.

B

A

A 2¼˝

A Trim corner.

A Trim corner.

Front/Back diagram Center

lining Cut 2 pieces 103/8˝ × 61/2˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Glenda Clutch Front/Back Corner pattern.

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Cut 1 piece 83/4˝ × 51/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Glenda Clutch Flap Corner pattern.

7⁄8˝ Trim corner.

Cut 1 piece 83/4˝ × 51/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Glenda Clutch Flap Corner pattern.

Trim corner.

Flap diagram

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 103/8˝ × 61/2˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Glenda Clutch Front/Back Corner pattern. Cut 1 piece 83/4˝ × 51/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Glenda Clutch Flap Corner pattern.

48

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces.

2. Attach the magnetic snap to the

exterior front and lining flap pieces as marked (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

Sew front darts, and press toward center.

3. Sew the darts on the exterior front and back pieces and on the lining front and back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16).

4. Press the darts on the front pieces

toward the center. Press the darts on the back pieces toward the outside edge.

5. Pin the front and back exterior pieces

Sew back darts, and press toward outside edge.

with the right sides together. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam.

6. Repeat Step 5 with the lining front

and back pieces, leaving 4˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

Sew around side and bottom edges.

Making the Flap 1. Pin the exterior flap to the lining

flap with the right sides together. Stitch only the curved seam, leaving the straight edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

2. Turn the flap right side out. Press, and topstitch 1/8˝ from the seam.

Turn flap right side out, and topstitch.

49

{ glenda clutch }


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining

seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

Pin and baste flap to exterior back.

2. Place the flap onto the back piece of the clutch, with the exterior sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

3. Insert the exterior inside

the lining, with right sides together, sandwiching the flap between the exterior and the lining.

4. Pin the exterior and lining

Insert exterior inside lining.

around the opening of the clutch.

5. Sew around the opening.

Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out through the opening in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the clutch.

Pin around clutch opening.

6. Topstitch around the opening 1/8Ë? from the edge. Sew the button to the exterior flap in the desired location.

Turn, press, and topstitch.

50

Bags—The Modern Classics


51

{ glenda clutch }


{ elegance pleated clutch } Even a beginner can make this bag by following the instructions carefully! With the right fabrics and decoration, this bag can even go formal. Or, dress it down and it can be a makeup bag. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Elegance Pleated Clutch Front/Back, the Elegance Pleated Clutch Side, the Elegance Pleated Clutch Flap Corner, and the Elegance Pleated Clutch Lining Front/Back patterns on pullout page P-3.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 101/2˝ × 6˝

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1/2 yard for exterior 3/8 yard for lining

5/8 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

18mm magnetic snap

11/2˝–13/4˝ button or bead

52

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 4 Side pieces. (Trace the pattern and cut 2 pieces with right sides together. Flip the pattern over, and cut 2 more pieces). Cut 1 piece 83/8˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Elegance Pleated Clutch Flap Corner template.

lining Cut 2 Lining Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 piece 83/8˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Elegance Pleated Clutch Flap Corner template.

interfacing Cut 2 Lining Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 piece 83/8˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim all 4 corners using the Elegance Pleated Clutch Flap Corner template. Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Center

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

7⁄8˝

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Flap diagram

53

{ elegance pleated clutch }


A

Sewing the Exterior

A

1. Attach half of the magnetic snap (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13) to the exterior front as marked (the other half is added later).

2. Pin a side piece to each side of

Pin side pieces to front.

the exterior front, matching the point A markings, with right sides together.

3. Stitch the seams, backtacking

at both ends. Press the seams toward the sides. Topstitch the sides 1/8˝ from the seams.

4. Make the pleats as indicated on the pattern (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Make sure the pleats all fold toward the center.

Sew sides to front, press, and topstitch.

5. Repeat Steps 2–4 for the back. 6. Pin the exterior front and back

pieces with right sides facing. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the seam.

Make pleats.

Sew front and back together.

54

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong

side of the lining front, back, and flap pieces. Pin the lining front and back pieces with right sides together.

2. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends and leaving 4˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning. Notch the seam.

Pin lining front and back pieces.

Making the Flap 1. Attach the remaining magnetic snap piece onto the lining flap as marked.

2. Pin the exterior flap and lining

flap with right sides together. Stitch only the curved seam, leaving the straight edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝. Turn the flap right side out, and press.

Turn flap right side out, press, and topstitch.

3. Topstitch 1/8˝ from the seam.

55

{ elegance pleated clutch }


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining

seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Position the flap onto the

back piece of the clutch with exterior sides together and aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

Pin and baste flap to exterior back.

3. Insert the exterior inside

the lining, with right sides together, sandwiching the flap between the exterior and the lining.

4. Pin the exterior and lining together around the top opening of the clutch.

Insert exterior inside lining.

Pin around top opening of clutch.

56

Bags—The Modern Classics


5. Stitch around the opening.

Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the clutch.

6. Topstitch around the opening 1/8˝ from the edge. Sew the button to the exterior flap in the desired location.

Turn, press, and topstitch.

57

{ elegance pleated clutch }


{ uptown clutch } This clutch is perfect for a night out! You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight

cotton fabric. Choose a print fabric for the sides and a matching solid-colored fabric for the center stripe. Make a clutch to match every outfit!

Use the Uptown Clutch Top Panel Corner, the Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel Corner, the Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel and the Uptown Clutch Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-4. Use the Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner pattern on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: 151/2˝ × 73/8˝ SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

1/2 yard print for exterior 1/8 yard solid for exterior 1/2 yard for lining

1 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

18mm magnetic snap

58

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior print Cut 2 pieces 67/8˝ × 35/8˝ for the front top panels. Refer to the Front Top Panels diagram to trace and trim a corner from each piece using the Uptown Clutch Top Panel Corner template. Remember to flip the pattern over to trim the 2nd piece.

Cut 1 piece 161/2˝ × 83/8˝ for the back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/ Back diagram (page 60) to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner template.

Cut 2 pieces 95/8˝ × 53/4˝ for the pleat panels. Refer to the Pleat Panels diagram to trace and trim a corner from each piece using the Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel Corner template. Using the Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel template, align the template along the top edge of the fabric, and mark the top row of pleats. Move the template to the lower edge, and mark the bottom row of pleats. Remember to flip the patterns over to mark the 2nd piece.

Cut 2 pieces 61/2˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap side panels. Refer to the Flap Side Panels diagram (page 60) to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners from each piece using the Uptown Clutch Flap Corner template. Remember to flip the pattern over to mark the 2nd piece.

Trim corner.

exterior solid Cut 1 piece 4˝ × 83/8˝ for the front center panel. Cut 1 piece 4˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap center panel.

Trim corner.

Flip template.

Stitch to front center panel piece. Front Top Panels diagram

Flip template.

Trim corner. Pleat Panels diagram

Trim corner.

59

{ uptown clutch }


Trim corner.

Trim corner.

lining Cut 2 pieces 161/2˝ × 83/8˝ for the lining front and back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner template.

Center

Trim corner. Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Cut 1 piece 151/8˝ × 41/2˝ for the lining flap. Refer to the Lining Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Uptown Clutch Flap Corner template.

interfacing Flip template.

Trim corner.

Stitch to flap center panel piece.

Trim corner.

Flap Side Panels diagram Trim corner.

Trim corner. Center

13⁄8˝ Trim corner. Lining Flap diagram

Cut 2 pieces 161/2˝ × 83/8˝ for the exterior back and lining front and back. Refer to the Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner template. Cut 1 piece 151/8˝ × 41/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Lining Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Uptown Clutch Flap Corner template.

Trim corner.

60

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Exterior Panels 1. Make the top row of pleats along the

straight edge of each pleat panel (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Make sure the pleats on both sides fold toward the center.

Make top row of pleats.

2. Pin the pleated edges of the pleat

panels to the bottom edges of the front top panels, right sides together. Stitch, backtacking at both ends. Press the seams toward the top panels.

3. Topstitch the top panels 1/8˝ from the seams, and press.

4. Attach half of the magnetic snap (see

Sew pleat panels to top panels.

Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13) to the front center panel, centered with the top edge of the snap piece 21/4˝ down from the top raw edge (the other half is added later).

5. Pin an assembled panel to the front

center panel along the 83/8˝ sides, right sides together.

6. Stitch, backtacking at both ends.

Press the seam allowance toward the front center panel. Sew the remaining assembled panel to the other side of the front center panel. Topstitch the front center panel 1/8˝ from both seams to complete the front.

Pin assembled panel to front center panel.

7. Pin the exterior back piece to the front, with right sides together, making the bottom row of pleats along the bottom edge of each pleat panel as marked.

8. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the rounded corner seam.

Pin front to back, and make bottom row of pleats.

61

{ uptown clutch }


Making the Flap 1. Pin a flap side panel to the flap center panel along the 41/2˝ sides, right sides together. Stitch, backtacking at both ends. Press the seam toward the flap center panel.

Sew flap side panels to flap center panel, and topstitch.

2. Sew the remaining flap side panel to

the other side of the flap center panel. Topstitch the flap center panel 1/8˝ from both seams to complete the flap.

3. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong

side of the lining flap. Attach the remaining magnetic snap piece to the lining flap as marked.

Sew flap to lining, turn, and press.

4. Pin the exterior flap to the lining flap

with right sides facing. Stitch only the sides and curved bottom edge seam, leaving the top edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝. Turn right side out, and press.

5. Topstitch the flap 1/8˝ from the seam.

62

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining front and back. Pin the lining front and back pieces together with right sides facing.

2. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at each end and leaving 4˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning. Notch the curved seam.

Pin and baste flap to exterior back.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining seams

open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Position the flap onto the back piece of the clutch, with exterior sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

Insert exterior inside lining.

3. Insert the exterior inside the lining,

with right sides together, sandwiching the flap between the exterior and the lining.

4. Pin the exterior and lining together

around the top opening of the clutch.

5. Sew around the opening. Trim the

corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the clutch.

Pin around top opening of clutch.

6. Topstitch around the opening 1/8˝ from the edge.

Turn, press, and topstitch.

63

{ uptown clutch }


Large Bags 64

Bags—The Modern Classics


{ lovely clarissa bag } The pleats give this lovely bag a round, pretty shape. Because it is very spacious, it is perfect to use as a diaper bag. You can use just one fabric or sew together pieces of different fabrics.

This bag looks good with or without interfacing; however, without interfacing the bag will be

softer and have less shape. The lining shows, so it is important to consider matching colors and patterns when choosing the fabrics for the exterior and lining.

Use the Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back and the Lovely Clarissa Bag Bottom patterns on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 193/8˝ × 14˝ × 71/4˝, plus 81/4˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 11/8 yards or pieces sewn together to equal 1 yard for exterior

11/8 yards for lining and pocket 13/4 yards of 22˝-wide lightweight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

65

{ lovely clarissa bag }


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Bottom piece.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Bottom piece. Cut 2 pieces 8˝ × 7˝ for the pocket.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Bottom piece.

Making the Pocket Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (7˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 5˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place— down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

66

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong

side of the exterior front, back, and bottom pieces.

2. Sew the darts on the exterior front and back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts toward the center.

3. Pin the exterior front and back

Sew darts, and press toward center.

together with right sides facing. Stitch the side seams only down to the point C marking, as indicated on the pattern, backtacking at both ends. Press the side seams open.

4. Pin the assembled front and back

to the bottom, with right sides facing and matching the side and center markings as indicated on the patterns. Pin at the 2 sides, the 2 centers, and then in between.

5. Sew around the bottom, back-

C

Pin bottom to front and back.

tacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam.

6. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining front and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

7. Repeat Steps 2–5 with the lining

pieces, pressing the darts toward the outside edge and leaving 4˝ unstitched along the bottom seam for turning.

Notch curved bottom seam.

67

{ lovely clarissa bag }

C


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Turn the exterior right side out. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

2. Pin the exterior and the lining together

around the front and back top openings and around the handle openings up to the point D and point E markings as indicated on the pattern.

Insert exterior inside lining.

E

3. Stitch the exterior to the lining from

D E

point D to point D on both the front and the back. Stitch the seams from point E to point E. Clip the curved seams.

4. Turn the bag right side out through the

opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag.

Pin exterior to lining around top and handle openings.

Finishing the Bag 1. Pin the short edges of the exterior handles together, and pin the short edges of the lining handles together, right sides facing.

2. Stitch the seams, backtacking at both ends. Press the seams open.

3. Turn under 1/2˝ on the raw side edges of the exterior and lining handles, and press. Pin or baste the turned-under edges together.

Pin short edges of handles together.

4. Topstitch around the top and handle

openings, 1/8˝ from the edges. The turned-under edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Pin or baste turned-under edges of handles.

68

Bags—The Modern Classics


69

{ lovely clarissa bag }


{ chic hobo bag } This very simple bag can be formal or informal, depending on your choice of fabric. There’s only one pattern piece, so it’s quick and easy to make. Since finding the perfect button, bead, or closure to match your fabric can be a

challenge, consider choosing the button or bead first, and then picking the fabric. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric. Use the Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back pattern on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 153/4˝ × 101/2˝, plus 121/2˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 7/8 yard for exterior 1 yard for lining

11/2 yards of 22˝-wide medium-weight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap

11/2˝–23/8˝ button or bead

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

70

Bags—The Modern Classics


Making the Pocket

CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (6˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 31/2˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ × 6˝ for the pocket.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior front and back pieces.

2. Sew the darts on the exterior front and back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts on the front piece toward the center and on the back piece toward the outside seams.

Sew and press darts.

3. Pin the exterior front and back pieces together around the outside edge, from the top of one handle to the top of the other, with right sides facing. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat.

4. Sew around the outside edge, backtacking at each

end. Notch the curved seam. Press the seam open.

5. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining front

Pin front and back together around outside edge.

and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

6. Repeat Steps 2–4 with the lining pieces, leaving

5˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

71

{ chic hobo bag }


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Turn the exterior right side out.

Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

2. Pin the exterior and the lining

together around the inner curved seams on both the front and back between the point C markings, as indicated on the pattern.

3. Stitch the inner curved seams from

Insert exterior inside lining.

point C to point C on both front and back. Clip the curved seams. Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed.

C

Pin exterior and lining together between point C markings.

72

Bags—The Modern Classics


Finishing the Bag 1. Pin the short edges of the exterior

handle together, right sides facing.

2. Stitch the seam, backtacking at

both ends. Press the seam open. Repeat for the lining handle.

3. Turn under 1/2˝ on the raw side

edges of the exterior and lining handle, and press. Pin or baste the turned-under edges together.

Pin short edges of exterior handle together.

4. Topstitch around the inner

curved seams, 1/8˝ from the edges. The turned-under edges will be secured in the topstitching.

5. Sew the button or bead at the desired location.

Stitch short edges of lining handle together.

Pin or baste turned-under edges of handle.

Topstitch around inner curved seams.

73

{ chic hobo bag }


{ veronica day bag } The combination of the pleated front and round handle is what makes this bag so lovely. It is easy to make the pleats, but the curved handle is a bit of a challenge. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front pattern on pullout page P-4. Use the Veronica Day Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back, and the Veronica Day Bag Handle patterns on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 211/4˝ × 133/4˝, plus 81/2˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1 yard for exterior front and back

1/4 yard for exterior handles 3/4 yard for lining front and back

1/4 yard for lining handles 2 yards of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

18mm magnetic snap

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

74

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 1 Exterior Front piece. Cut 1 Exterior Back piece (the back does not have pleats).

exterior handles Cut 2 Handle pieces.

lining Cut 2 Lining Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ × 5˝ for the pocket.

lining handles Cut 2 Handle pieces.

interfacing Cut 2 Lining Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Handle pieces.

Sewing the Exterior 1. Make the pleats on the exterior

front (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Make sure the pleats on both sides fold toward the center.

2. Pin a handle to the exterior front,

with right sides facing and matching the center and point A markings as indicated on the patterns. Pin the centers, then at the point A markings, and then in between. Clip the exterior front piece between the point A markings only as necessary to help ease the fabric around the curve of the handle.

Make pleats on exterior front.

A

A

Pin handle to front, matching centers and point A markings.

75

{ veronica day bag }


3. Stitch the handle to the front from

point A to point A, leaving a 1/2˝ seam allowance at both ends and backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam of the handle, and press toward the handle.

4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to sew the other handle to the exterior back.

5. Pin the exterior front and back together Sew handle to front. Notch handle seam, and press toward handle.

along the side and bottom edges, with right sides facing.

6. Stitch the side and bottom seams, backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved corner seams.

Pin back and front together along side and bottom edges.

Making the Pocket

Sewing the Lining

Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (6˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 3˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side

of the lining front and back and lining handle pieces.

2. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining

front and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

3. Repeat Steps 2–6 in Sewing the

Exterior to complete the lining, leaving 5˝ unstitched along the bottom seam for turning.

76

Bags—The Modern Classics


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

2. Pin the exterior and lining together

along the opening edge, from point A on the front, across the side seam, to point A on the back. Pin the other side of the bag in the same manner. Stitch the 2 seams, leaving a 1/2˝ seam allowance and backtacking at both ends. Trim the corners at the tops of the side seams.

Insert exterior inside lining.

3. Pin an exterior handle and a lining

handle together from point A to point B. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Pin along the inside curve of the same handle from point C to point C. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Clip the curved seam. Repeat for the other handle.

A

A

Sew top openings from point A to point A.

A

A

Sew handles together.

77

{ veronica day bag }

B

C

B


tip Clipping the seams with great care is critical to making

this bag a success, especially at the corner where the handle meets the bag at point A. Here, it is a good idea to check the shape of the bag by turning it right side out and

making sure the seams are not caught or puckered before you proceed with any final clipping or trimming. By

checking first, you can make the job easier if you have to unstitch and sew again.

Check corners before clipping or trimming.

4. Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag.

Turn to right side, and press top opening.

Finishing the Bag 1. Pin the short edges of the exterior handles

together, right sides facing. Stitch the seams, backtacking at both ends. Press the seams open. Repeat for the lining handles.

2. Turn under 1/2˝ on the raw side edges of the

lining and exterior handles, and press. Pin or baste the turned-under edges.

Sew short edges of handles.

3. Topstitch around the opening edge and both sides of the handles, 1/8˝ from the edges. The turned-under edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Topstitch opening edge and handles.

78

Bags—The Modern Classics


79

{ veronica day bag }


{ metro shopping bag } This bag has wide sides and a wide bottom, which allows it to hold a lot. Use a material

such as suede for the handle to create a unique look. The lining shows slightly, so it is also important to choose this fabric carefully. You can use either home decorator or quiltingweight cotton fabric.

Use the Metro Shopping Bag Front/Back pattern on pullout page P-4, and the Metro Shopping Bag Side/Bottom pattern on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 201/4˝ × 12˝ × 6˝, plus 9˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 11/4 yards for exterior

1/8 yard for handles (or 2 pieces of leather or suede 31/2˝ × 11˝) 11/4 yards for lining and pocket 13/4 yards of 22˝-wide medium-weight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap

92˝ of piping (optional) 4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

80

Bags—The Modern Classics


tip Faux suede can be handled just like any regular fabric. However, it can easily be damaged during pressing. Place a cotton pressing cloth on top of the faux

suede during pressing; always test a scrap of suede before sewing your project. I do not recommend that beginners work with leather because it can be difficult to sew on some sewing machines. Plus a special needle is required. However, an experienced sewer may find that the biggest challenge when sewing with leather is the need to help the leather feed through the machine by pushing it slightly when sewing.

CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior

tip If you are using a directional fabric,

make sure the patterns are placed on the fabric to match the direction of

Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

the design.

Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces.

handles Cut 2 pieces 31/2˝ × 11˝ for the handles.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ x 6˝ for the pocket.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces.

81

{ metro shopping bag }


Sewing the Exterior 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces.

2. Pin the side/bottom pieces together along the

7˝ edges, right sides together. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Press the seam open. Topstitch on each side, 1/8˝ from the seam, for reinforcement.

A

3. Pin the front to the assembled side/bottom,

with right sides facing. First match the center front with the side/bottom seam and then the point A and point B markings as indicated on the patterns. Clip the side/bottom piece between the A and B markings only as necessary to help ease it around the curve of the front piece.

B

4. Sew around the bag, backtacking at both ends. 5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to attach the back piece to the other side of the assembled side/bottom.

tip Pin side/bottom to front.

If you would like to add a sewing label, place it in the

desired location. Stitch around the edge, backtacking at the starting/ending point.

Making the Handles

Making the Pocket

1. Fold a handle piece in half lengthwise, with

Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (6˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 41/2˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place— down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the handle with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the handle 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press.

2. Topstitch 1/8˝ from both long edges. 3. Repeat for the other handle. 82

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Lining 1. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining

front and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

2. Repeat Steps 2–5 in Sewing the

Exterior to complete the lining, leaving 5˝ unstitched along a bottom seam for turning.

Make lining. C

Assembling the Exterior and Lining

C

1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Position the end of a handle on the right

side of the exterior bag front, centered between the C markings as indicated on the pattern. Pin and baste in place. The other end of this handle will be attached later. Pin and baste the remaining handle to the back of the bag in the same manner.

Attach end of one handle to bag front and end of other handle to bag back.

3. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with

right sides together, sandwiching the handles between the exterior and the lining.

4. Pin the exterior to the lining around the top opening of the bag.

Insert exterior inside lining.

Pin exterior to lining around top opening.

83

{ metro shopping bag }


5. Sew around the top opening of the bag,

C

leaving the seams unstitched between the C markings where the remaining handle ends will be inserted. Trim the handle corners and the corners at the tops of the seams. Clip the curved seams.

C

6. Turn right side out through the opening in

Leave top opening unstitched between C markings.

the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed.

7. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag.

8. Fold in the 1/2˝ seam allowance of the

unstitched handle openings, and press. Insert the remaining handle ends into the handle openings 1/2˝, and pin.

9. Topstitch around the top opening of

the bag, 1/8˝ from the edge. The inserted handle ends will be secured in the topstitching.

Slipstitch opening in lining closed.

Turn right side out, and press. Topstitch around top opening.

Insert handle ends, and pin.

84

Bags—The Modern Classics


85

{ metro shopping bag }


{ cute elizabeth bag } This modern bag has a beautiful curved shape and utilizes rings to attach the handle.

It will be very comfortable on your shoulder. The contrasting side pieces give this bag a designer look. Dress it up even more with a romantic eyelet corsage. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Cute Elizabeth Bag Front/Back pattern on pullout page P-2, the Cute Elizabeth Bag Side/Bottom pattern on pullout page P-3 and the Floral Bag Petal Template on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 161/2˝ × 103/4˝ × 3˝, plus 121/2˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

3/4 yard for exterior front and back 1/2 yard for exterior side and bottom and handles 3/4 yard for lining

2 yards of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

4 O-rings, 11/4˝ wide, for handles (round, oval, or rectangular) 18mm magnetic snap

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

corsage 51/2˝ × 11˝ eyelet fabric

51/2˝ × 51/2˝ solid-color fabric 4–5 beads, 1/2˝ in diameter Invisible thread

86

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Side/Bottom piece. Cut 2 pieces 31/2˝ × 14˝ for the handles.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Side/Bottom piece.

corsage Cut 2 petals from the eyelet fabric. Cut 1 petal from the solid-color fabric.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Side/Bottom piece. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ × 6˝ for the pocket.

Sewing the Exterior 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior front, back, and side/ bottom pieces.

B

B

2. Pin the front piece to the side/bottom

piece, with right sides facing. Match the centers and then the point A and point B markings as indicated on the patterns. Clip the side/bottom piece between the A and B markings only as necessary to help ease it around the curve of the front piece.

A Pin front to side/bottom pieces.

87

{ cute elizabeth bag }

A


3. Sew the seam just to point B, backtacking at each end.

4. Repeat Steps 2–3 to attach the back piece

to the other side of the side/bottom piece. Trim the corners, and notch the curved seams.

5. After sewing the front and back pieces

to the side/bottom piece, stitch from points B to C on each side, backtacking at both ends.

Sew front to side/bottom between point B markings, backtacking at each end.

Making the Pocket Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (6˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 33/4˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

Sewing the Lining

Attach back to side/bottom piece.

1. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining

front and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

B

2. Repeat Steps 2–5 in Sewing the

C

Exterior to complete the lining, leaving 5˝ unstitched along a bottom seam for turning.

Trim corners at point B.

88

Bags—The Modern Classics


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

3. Pin the exterior and the lining together

around the top opening, including the handle extensions, from point C on one side to point C on the other side. Pin the other side of the bag in the same manner.

Insert exterior inside lining.

4. Sew around the top opening of the bag,

including the handle extensions, from point C on one side to point C on the other side, carefully pivoting at the corners of the handle extensions and backtacking at both ends. Sew the other side of the bag in the same manner.

C

Sew from point C to point C on both front and back.

5. Trim the corner seam allowances on all 4 handle extensions.

6. Clip and notch the curved seams. Turn

the bag and handle extensions right side out through the opening left in the lining. Carefully push out the corners of the handles. Stitch the opening closed.

7. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press

Trim handle extension corners.

the top opening of the bag, including the handle extensions.

8. Topstitch around the top opening, 1/8˝ from the edge.

89

{ cute elizabeth bag }

C


Making the Handles 1. Fold in 1/2˝ along both short edges of a

handle piece, and press. Fold the handle piece in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the handle with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the handle 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ from both long edges. Repeat for the other handle.

Stitch here.

Stitch here.

Attach handles with rings.

2. To attach the handle rings: slip a handle

extension through a ring, and fold the extension over 1˝ to the lining side. Pin in place. Repeat with the other 3 rings.

3. To attach the handles: slip the end of a

handle through a ring on the bag front. Fold the end over 1˝ to the lining side, and pin in place. Pin the other handle end to the other front extension. Pin the remaining handle to the bag back extensions in the same manner.

4. Stitch the extension and handle ends in place, close to the short ends.

Making the Corsage Sew running stitch circles in centers of petals.

Draw a 1˝ circle in the center of each of the 2 eyelet petals; draw a 2˝ circle on the solid fabric petal. Stitch around the circle using a running stitch, and pull the thread to gather. Layer the petals as shown, and stitch together through all the layers. Sew the beads to the center using invisible thread. Attach to bag where desired.

Sew petals together through center. Sew beads to center.

90

Bags—The Modern Classics


91

{ cute elizabeth bag }


{ urban carryall bag } You’ll be able to put anything and everything in this shapely bag! An added zipper will prevent things from falling out, and the bias binding used to finish the lining will give

the bag extra body. Fabrics with large prints are a great choice. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Urban Carryall Exterior Front Top, the Urban Carryall Exterior Front Pleats Panel, and the Urban Carryall Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner patterns on pullout page P-4.

FINISHED SIZE: 223/4˝ × 15˝, plus adjustable handle, approximately 10˝ folded

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 11/4 yards for exterior 11/8 yards for lining

1/4 yard for lining binding (to make your own bias binding, see page 16)

OR 57˝ of 1/2˝-wide doublefold bias tape (purchased) 19˝ all-purpose zipper

3˝ O-ring for handle (round, oval, or rectangular) 4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

92

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Cut the rectangular and square pieces first, and then cut the pattern pieces as required. Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 pieces 20˝ × 2˝ for the zipper panels. Cut 1 piece 6˝ × 35˝ for the handle. Cut 1 piece 6˝ × 6˝ for the loop Cut 1 piece 24˝ × 16˝ for the back. Refer to the Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Urban Carryall Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner pattern. Cut 1 Front Top piece. Cut 1 Front Pleats Panel piece.

lining Cut 2 pieces 24˝ × 16˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front/Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the corners using the Urban Carryall Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner pattern. Cut 2 pieces 20˝ × 2˝ for the zipper panels. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ × 7˝ for the pockets.

lining binding

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Refer to Making Bias Binding, page 16, to make 57˝ of bias binding, or use purchased binding.

A

Center

A

Cut 1 piece 48˝ long. Cut 2 pieces 41/2˝ long each.

Trim corner. Front/Back diagram

93

{ urban carryall bag }

Trim corner.


Making the Pocket Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower edge of the pocket placed 51/2˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Make the pleats on the exterior front pleats panel (see

Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Make sure the pleats on both sides fold away from the center.

2. Pin the exterior front top piece to the exterior front pleats panel, with right sides facing and matching the centers. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam of the exterior front top.

3. Press the seam toward the exterior front top. Topstitch the exterior front top, 1/8˝ from the seam.

4. Center an exterior zipper panel piece over the A markings

on the top edge of the front, and pin in place. The zipper panel will extend 1/2˝ beyond the A markings on each side. Stitch the zipper panel to the front top between the A markings only, backtacking at each end. Press the seam toward the zipper panel.

5. Topstitch the zipper panel between the A markings only, 1/8˝ from the seam, backtacking at both ends. The 1/2˝ extension will be left at each end.

A

A

Assembled front

6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to stitch the other exterior zipper

panel piece to the exterior back piece in the same manner.

7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to sew the lining zipper panel pieces to the lining front and lining back pieces in the same manner.

94

Bags—The Modern Classics


Installing the Zipper 1. Referring to the photo at right, close the

zipper and place it on the exterior front zipper panel with right sides together. Position the zipper pull 5/8˝ from the side edge of the zipper panel, and then align the edge of the zipper tape along the raw upper edge of the zipper panel. Trim excess zipper tape from the opposite side edge, but not closer than 1/4˝ from the zipper stop. If you need to trim away more of the zipper, see Shortening Zipper Length (page 12).

Pin zipper to exterior zipper panel.

2. Pin the zipper to the exterior zipper panel. 3. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to

the top panel 1/8˝ from the edge of the tape, backtacking at both ends.

Pin lining front to top panel, with zipper in between.

4. A lign the raw edge of the lining front

zipper panel with the raw edge of the exterior front zipper panel, with right sides together, and pin. The zipper will now be sandwiched between the lining and the exterior.

5. Using a zipper foot, sew the 3 layers

together, close to the zipper coils, backtacking at both ends.

6. Flip the lining over to the wrong side, and

Sew exterior front zipper panel to lining front zipper panel, turn, and press.

press. From the exterior side, topstitch the zipper panel close to the zipper coils.

7. Attach the exterior back and lining back in the same manner.

Sew exterior back zipper panel to lining back zipper panel, turn, and press.

95

{ urban carryall bag }


Making the Handle and Loop 1. Fold in 1/2˝ along a short edge of

the long handle piece, and press.

2. Fold the handle in half length-

wise, with the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the handle with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the handle 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ from both long edges. Set aside.

Make handle and loop.

3. Repeat Step 2 to make the loop. 4. Insert an end of the loop through the O-ring, and fold the loop in half, wrong sides together.

Assembled O-ring

5. Baste the raw ends of the loop

together 1/4˝ from the edge to keep the O-ring from slipping out.

96

Bags—The Modern Classics


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Baste the exterior front and lining front

together around the outside edge, 1/2˝ from the edge. Trim the seam allowances to 3/8˝, and treat the 2 layers as 1. Repeat for the back. Open the zipper, so that you can turn the bag right side out later. Pin the front and back together through all 4 layers, with right (exterior) sides facing. If desired, baste around the outside edge to hold everything in place.

Pin front and back together through all 4 layers, with exterior sides facing.

2. Unfold the 48˝ length of bias binding.

Beginning at the outside corner on a side of the bag, pin the raw edge of the bias binding to the outside edge of the bag, with right sides together. Pin all the way around to the other outside corner on the other side. Trim any excess binding even with the outside corner.

3. Stitch along the crease line closest to the

Pin binding around outside edge.

outside edge. Fold the binding over to encase the raw edge, and pin.

4. Topstitch the binding 1/8˝ from the inner

fold of the binding, through all the layers.

5. With the bag still inside out and the

zipper open, center the assembled loop over a side seam with right sides together (fold the lining binding to one side), and pin. Fold the zipper panels over to cover the loop, with the zipper coils meeting in the center.

Fold binding over to encase raw edge, and pin.

6. Stitch across the seam, sewing back and

forth several times to reinforce. Trim the seam allowances to 3/8˝.

Insert and pin the assembled loop.

97

{ urban carryall bag }


7. Unfold a 41/2˝ length of bias binding.

Center the binding over the trimmed seam, and pin the raw edge of the bias binding in place, with right sides together. Stitch along the crease line closest to the edge of the trimmed seam, backtacking at both ends.

8. Fold in the ends of the binding, so they

are even with the ends of the seam. Fold the binding over to encase the raw edge, and pin.

Stitch binding to trimmed seam.

9. Topstitch the binding 1/8˝ from the inner

fold of the binding, through all the layers.

10. Insert the unfinished end of the long

handle at the other end of the bag in the same manner. Turn the bag right side out.

Fold binding over to encase seam, and pin.

Finishing the Bag Insert the finished end of the long handle through the O-ring. Pull the handle to the desired length. Pin and stitch the end of the handle 1/8˝ from the edge. Adjust handle, and stitch to secure.

98

Bags—The Modern Classics


99

{ urban carryall bag }


{ sweet annemarie bag } This bag is the perfect size for carrying a wallet and cell phone, and because it is a cross-body style

of bag (the strap crosses the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip), it is appropriate for active

days requiring lots of movement. Add the corsage if you wish. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Sweet Annemarie Bag Front/Back and the Sweet Annemarie Bag Flap patterns on pullout page P-4.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 11˝ × 71/8˝, plus 19˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1/2 yard for exterior 3/8 yard for lining

1/4 yard for corsage (optional) 5/8 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight iron-on fusible interfacing

18mm magnetic snap

11/2˝ O-ring for handle (round, oval, or rectangular) 11/2˝–2˝ bead or button 3/4˝–1˝ button for corsage (optional)

100

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Flap piece. Cut 1 piece 2˝ × 401/2˝ for the strap. Cut 1 piece 2˝ × 31/2˝ for the ring loop.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Flap piece.

interfacing Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 1 Flap piece.

corsage Cut 1 circle 53/4˝ in diameter. Cut 1 circle 5˝ in diameter. Cut 1 circle 41/2˝ in diameter. Cut 1 circle 4˝ in diameter.

101

{ sweet annemarie bag }


Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior front, back, and flap pieces.

2. Attach the magnetic snap to the exterior front and lining flap pieces as indicated on the patterns (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

3. Sew the darts on the exterior front

Sew front and back darts, and press.

and back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts on the front piece toward the center. Press the darts on the back piece toward the outside edge.

 note 

To help suede or leather darts

lie flat, clip each one along the fold of the dart, close to, but not through, the point.

Finger-press the darts open, and then top-

stitch around the dart seams from the right side, 1/8˝ from the seams.

Pin front and back together.

4. Pin the front and back exterior pieces

around the side and bottom edges, with the right sides together. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat.

Press darts in opposite directions.

102

Bags—The Modern Classics


5. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam.

6. Repeat Steps 3–5 with the lining pieces, leaving 4˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

Sew and notch curved seam.

Making the Strap and Ring Loop 1. Fold in 1/2˝ on a short edge of the strap

Sew lining, leaving 4˝ unstitched.

piece, and press.

2. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, with

the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the strap with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the strap 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ from the folded-in edges.

Topstitch 1/8˝ from folded-in edges.

3. Repeat Step 2 to make the ring loop.

Insert an end of the ring loop through the O-ring, and fold the loop in half. Pin the raw ends of the loop together to keep the O-ring from slipping out.

Make ring loop.

103

{ sweet annemarie bag }


Making the Flap 1. Pin the exterior flap and lining flap

together with right sides facing. Stitch only the curved seam, leaving the straight edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

2. Turn the flap right side out, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ from the seam.

Topstitch flap.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Center the raw ends of the ring loop

over an exterior side seam, with right sides together. Pin and baste in place.

Pin and baste ring loop.

3. Center the raw end of the strap over the

other exterior side seam, with right sides together. Pin and baste in place.

Pin and baste strap.

104

Bags—The Modern Classics


4. Center the flap on the back of the bag,

with the exterior sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

5. Insert the exterior inside the lining,

right sides together. The flap, strap, and ring loop should all be sandwiched between the lining and the exterior.

6. Pin the exterior and lining together around the opening of the bag.

Pin and baste flap.

Insert exterior inside lining.

Pin around bag opening.

105

{ sweet annemarie bag }


7. Stitch around the opening of the bag,

taking care not to catch the strap in the seam. Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Clip the seam. Turn right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed.

8. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press

the top opening of the bag. Topstitch around the opening, 1/8˝ from the edge. Sew the bead or button to the exterior flap in the desired location.

Slipstitch opening closed.

Connecting the Strap From the right side, insert the finished end of the strap into the O-ring. Fold the end under to make a 1˝ loop. Stitch across the end of the strap, sewing back and forth several times to reinforce. Connect strap.

Making the Corsage 1. Fold a petal circle in half, right sides

together. From the center of the circle, stitch a dart approximately 1/4˝ deep and approximately 1/2˝ long toward the outside edge of the circle. Repeat with the 3 remaining petal circles.

Stitch darts 1/2˝ long and 1/4˝ deep from centers of circles.

2. Open the petals. With the right sides

facing up, align the darts and layer the petals, largest on the bottom. Sew the 4 petals together through the center.

3. Sew the button to the center of the petals.

4. Sew the corsage to the center of

Layer petals, and sew together.

the flap.

106

Bags—The Modern Classics


107

{ sweet annemarie bag }


{ floral bag } The corsage and pleats give this bag a stylish look. It can be carried with casual attire or matched with a formal style of dress. Small prints work well on this bag. Try mixing different fabrics and colors to make the corsage: eyelet, silk (dupioni), lace, or wool. The large version of this bag has

shorter handles than the small version, due to their differences in the size. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric for this bag.

Use the Floral Bag Bottom Corner and the Floral Bag Corsage Petal patterns on pullout page P-1.

FINISHED SIZE: 20˝ × 18˝,

plus 121/4˝ handle (large), or 16˝ × 14˝, plus 131/4˝ handle (small)

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

large 11/2 yards for exterior 11/8 yards for lining 1/2 yard for corsage

2 yards of 22˝-wide lightweight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap

80˝ of leather cording for corsage 1 brooch pin for corsage Glue gun and glue

small 1 yard for exterior 7/8 yard for lining

1/2 yard for corsage

11/2 yards of 22˝-wide lightweight fusible interfacing 18mm magnetic snap

80˝ of leather cording for corsage 1 brooch pin for corsage Glue gun and glue

108

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

large exterior Cut 2 pieces 30˝ × 15˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 21˝ × 5˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces. Cut 2 pieces 61/2˝ × 251/2˝ for the handles.

lining Cut 2 pieces 30˝ × 15˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 21˝ × 5˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces.

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 30˝ × 15˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 21˝ × 5˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces.

Large: 3¼˝ Small: 2¾˝

Large: 3¼˝ Small: 2¾˝

Gather between dots. Center

A

B

B

A

A

A

Trim corner.

Trim corner.

Front and Back diagram Handle

Handle

Large: 4¾˝ Small: 4˝

Large: 4¾˝ Small: 4˝ Center Sew gathered edge between dots.

Large: 3¼˝ Small: 2¾˝ Top Panel diagram

109

{ floral bag }

Large: 3¼˝ Small: 2¾˝


Making the Handles

small exterior Cut 2 pieces 231/2˝ × 12˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 17˝ × 4˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces.

1. Fold a handle piece in half lengthwise,

with the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the handle with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the handle 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ away from both sides.

2. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of

Cut 2 pieces 41/2˝ × 271/2˝ for the handles.

the exterior top panels and the exterior front and back.

lining Cut 2 pieces 231/2˝ × 12˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 17˝ × 4˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces.

3. Position the handle on an exterior top

panel piece as marked, with right sides facing, aligning the raw edges of the handle with the bottom edge of the top panel. Baste the handle in place.

4. Repeat with the remaining handle and top panel piece.

interfacing Cut 2 pieces 231/2˝ × 12˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Front and Back diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Floral Bag Bottom Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 17˝ × 4˝ for the front and back top panels. Refer to the Top Panel diagram to mark the pieces.

corsage

Baste handles to top panels.

Cut 13 petal pieces.

 note 

tip You can change the number of petals in your corsage depending on the thickness of the material. If the material is thick or

Several of the bags in this book

have the handle positioned at the top edge of

the bag, rather than in the lower seam of the top panel. If you prefer to have the handles attached

heavy, such as linen or wool, use fewer than 12 petals. For

thin materials such as eyelet or lace, 18–22 petals should give a rich, elegant look.

at the top edge of the bag, you can baste the

handles in place just after Step 1 in Assembling

the Exterior and Lining. You also can hand sew the handles to the top panel after completing

the bag or attach them with finished ends to the top panels using small buttons.

110

Bags—The Modern Classics


Sewing the Exterior 1. Sew the darts on the exterior front and

back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts on the front piece toward the center. Press the darts on the back piece toward the outside edge.

2. To gather the front and back pieces

along the top edge, lengthen your sewing machine stitch length slightly, and sew 2 rows between the dots as marked on the Front and Back diagram. Stitch the first row just inside the 1/2˝ line, and stitch the second row within the seam allowance, 1/8˝ away. Do not backtack, and leave long thread ends for gathering.

Sew front and back darts, and press.

3. Pin a top panel and the front piece

together, with right sides facing. Pin from each side edge to the beginning of the gathering stitching, and then match and pin the marked centers. Pull the top threads on each side to gather and adjust the length to match up with the top panel. Wind the threads around the pins in a figure-eight pattern to hold the gathers. Pin the rest of the top panel, arranging the gathers evenly.

Pin front to top panel, and gather to fit.

4. Sew the front and top panel together,

backtacking at both ends. Remove the gathering threads.

Secure gathering threads with figure eight.

Sew front to top panel.

111

{ floral bag }


5. Press the seam toward the top panel.

Press the handle up toward the top panel. Topstitch along the top panel, 1/8˝ from the edge, stitching over the handle.

6. Repeat Steps 3–5 for the back piece and the remaining top panel.

7. Pin the assembled front and back exterior

pieces with the right sides together. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat.

Press and topstitch top panel.

8. Sew around the side and bottom edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the curved seam.

Sewing the Lining 1. Attach the magnetic snap to the lining front and back pieces as marked (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

2. Repeat Steps 1–8 in Sewing the Exterior, leaving 5˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

Pin front and back together.

Press darts in opposite directions.

112

Bags—The Modern Classics


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining side seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

3. Pin the exterior and lining together around the top opening of the bag.

4. Stitch around the top opening of the bag.

Insert exterior inside lining.

Trim the corners at the tops of the seams. Turn right side out through the opening left in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed.

5. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag. Move the handles out of the way, and topstitch around the opening 1/8˝ from the edge.

Pin around opening.

Slipstitch opening closed.

113

{ floral bag }


Making the Corsage 1. Fold 12 petals into eighths as shown in the photo.

2. Place the 13th petal right side up as a base

layer. Arrange each of the 12 folded petals on the base petal, with the folded points in the center. Sew the folded points of each petal in place. Do not iron the petals, or your corsage will be flat.

Fold 12 petals into eighths.

3. Cut the leather cord into 4 pieces, each

20Ë? long. Fold the cords in half. Sew the folds of the cords to the center back of the corsage.

4. Using the glue gun, attach the brooch pin above the leather cords.

5. Attach the corsage to the bag. Sew petal points to center of base petal.

Sew cords, and glue brooch pin to back.

114

Bags—The Modern Classics


115

{ floral bag }


{ easy lazy bag } Do you have those days when you want to sew but you don’t have a lot of time? Then this is the bag for you—there’s only one pattern piece. It’s the perfect lazy Saturday

afternoon project! You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric. Use the Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 and the Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 2 patterns on pullout page P-3. Join them together as indicated to make one pattern piece.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 14˝ × 14˝, plus 10˝ handles (tied)

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 1 yard for exterior 1 yard for lining

13/4 yards of 22˝-wide lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)

18mm magnetic snap

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

116

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 pieces 7˝ × 7˝ for the pocket.

interfacing (optional) Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Making the Pocket Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower edge of the pocket placed 31/2˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place— down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. If you choose to use interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of the exterior front and back pieces.

2. Pin the exterior front and back pieces around the side and bottom edges, with right sides together.

3. Sew around the side and bottom

edges, backtacking at both ends. Notch the rounded corner seams.

Pin front and back together.

4. Attach the magnetic snap to the

lining front and back pieces as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

5. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 with the lining

front and back pieces, leaving 5˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

117

{ easy lazy bag }


Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining

seams open. Turn the exterior right side out. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

Insert exterior inside lining.

2. Pin the exterior and the

lining together all around the top opening, including the 4 handles.

3. Sew around the top opening, including across the ends of each of the 4 handles, carefully pivoting at the corners.

4. Trim the corners at the ends

Pin around top opening and handles.

of the handles and at the tops of the side seams. Clip the curved seams.

5. Turn the bag right side out

through the opening left in the lining. Push out the handle corners. Slipstitch the opening closed.

Trim corners.

Turn right side out. Pin and slipstitch opening closed.

119

{ easy lazy bag }


Press top opening and handles.

6. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag, including the handles.

7. Topstitch around the top

opening and handles, 1/8Ë? from the edge. Tie the ends of the handles twice to form a knot.

120

Bags—The Modern Classics


121

{ easy lazy bag }


{ elva bag } This bag has wide bottom and side panels that extend to become the handles, giving it a

nice shape. Consider using suede for the side/bottom and flap pieces to make your bag look professional. Mix and match coordinating fabrics for the exterior, lining, sides, bottom, and handles. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Elva Bag Front/Back, the Elva Bag Side/Bottom, and the Elva Bag Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-3.

FINISHED SIZE: 11˝ × 61/2˝ × 3˝, plus 7˝ handle (folded)

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

1/2 yard or pieces sewn together to equal 1/2 yard for exterior front and back 1/4 yard for exterior side/ bottom pieces and flap 5/8 yard for lining

1 yard of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing

18mm magnetic snap

4˝–5˝ of hook-and-loop tape for pocket closure (optional; see Making a Pocket, page 14)

122

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces. Cut 1 piece 51/2˝ × 25/8˝ for the flap. Refer to the Bag Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Elva Bag Flap Corner template.

lining Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces. Cut 1 piece 51/2˝ × 25/8˝ for the flap. Refer to the Bag Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Elva Bag Flap Corner template. Cut 2 pieces 5˝ × 4˝ for the pocket.

interfacing

Center Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Cut 2 Front/Back pieces. Cut 2 Side/Bottom pieces. Cut 1 piece 25/8˝ × 51/2˝ for the flap. Refer to the Bag Flap diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Elva Bag Flap Corner template.

Making the Pocket Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket, page 14). Center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the lower (4˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 21/4˝ from the bottom edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

123

{ elva bag }

¾˝ Trim corner. Bag Flap diagram

Trim corner.


Sewing the Exterior 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the exterior pieces.

2. Attach half of the magnetic snap to the

exterior front piece as indicated on the pattern (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13). The other half will be attached to the lining flap later.

Sew front and back darts, and press.

3. Sew the darts on the exterior front and

back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts on the front piece toward the center. Press the darts on the back piece toward the outside edge.

Stitch side/bottom pieces together along 4˝ edges.

4. Pin the side/bottom pieces together along

the 4˝ edges, right sides together. Stitch the seam, backtacking at each end. Press the seam open. Topstitch on each side, 1/8˝ from the seam, for reinforcement.

E

5. Pin the front piece to the assembled side/

D

bottom pieces, with right sides facing. First match the center front with the side/bottom seam, then the point C and point D markings as indicated on the patterns, and finally the point E markings. Clip the side/bottom piece between the C and D markings only as necessary to help ease it around the curve of the front piece.

C Pin front to side/bottom piece.

6. Sew the side and bottom seam, backtacking at both ends.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 to attach the back piece to the other side of the assembled side/bottom piece.

8. Repeat Steps 3–7 to complete the lining,

leaving 4˝ unstitched along a bottom seam for turning.

124

Bags—The Modern Classics


Making the Flap 1. Cut the slots for the magnetic snap place-

ment on the flap lining piece (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13).

2. Pin the exterior flap to the lining flap,

with right sides facing. Stitch the side and bottom seams, leaving the top straight edge unstitched. Notch the curved seam, and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

tip Because of the small flap size, it will be difficult to topstitch

with the magnetic snap attached. A good solution is to cut the slots for the magnetic snap placement before constructing the flap, and attach the magnetic snap after the topstitching is completed (Step 3, at left).

3. Turn the flap right side out. Press, and topstitch 1/8˝ from the seam.

4. Attach the other half of the magnetic snap (see Adding a Magnetic Snap, page 13) on the lining of the flap.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Turn the exterior right side out.

2. Center the flap on the back piece of the

bag, with the exterior sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and baste in place.

3. Insert the exterior into the lining, right

sides together, with the flap sandwiched between the layers.

Pin and baste flap in place.

4. Pin the exterior and the lining together

E

across the front top opening, from point E on one side to point E on the other side. Pin the back of the bag in the same manner.

E Insert exterior into lining.

125

{ elva bag }


5. Pin the exterior and the lining side/

bottom together from point E to point F on all 4 sides to make the handles.

F

6. Stitch the seams in sections, backtacking E

at the ends of each section. First stitch from points E to E on the front and back and then from points E to F on the sides of each handle. Trim the corners at the tops of the seams (point E).

E

7. Turn the bag and handles right side out

through the opening left in the lining. Push out the handles. Stitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Press the top opening of the bag, including the handles.

Pin exterior to lining.

Finishing the Bag 1. Pin the short edges of the exterior handles

together, right sides facing. Stitch the seams, backtacking at both ends. Press the seams open. Repeat for the lining handles.

2. Turn under 1/2˝ on the raw side edges of the lining and exterior handles, and press. Pin or baste the turned-under edges.

Sew short edges of handles.

3. Topstitch around the openings, including both sides of the handles, 1/8˝ from the edges. The turned-under edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Pin or baste turned-under edges of handles.

126

Bags—The Modern Classics


127

{ elva bag }


{ rebecca bag } This is a Boston bag that looks like a backpack. It can be made using same-colored fabrics or different fabrics for the handles. The secret to making this a lovely bag is to make sure the front and back

pieces are aligned straight when they are sewn onto the zipper panel. This allows the bag to hold its proper form. You can use either home decorator or quilting-weight cotton fabric.

Use the Rebecca Bag Front/Back pattern on pullout page P-3. Use the Rebecca Bag Pocket and the Rebecca Bag Heart (optional) patterns on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: approximately 13˝ × 17˝ × 3˝, plus 11˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric.

1-fabric option 13/8 yards for exterior

2-fabric option 1 yard for exterior

3/4 yard for handles

both options 1 yard for lining

3/8 yard for lining binding (to make your own bias binding, see page 16) OR

114˝ of 1/2˝-wide double-fold bias binding (purchased)

11/2 yards of 22˝-wide heavyweight fusible interfacing 22˝ all-purpose zipper

10˝ × 7˝ scrap for heart ornament (optional)

Fiberfill stuffing for heart ornament (optional) 20˝ of leather cording for heart ornament (optional)

128

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES

lining bias binding

Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Cut the bottom panel, zipper panels, and handles first, and then the remaining pieces. Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

Refer to Making Bias Binding (page 16) to make 114˝ of bias binding, or use purchased binding. Cut 2 pieces 53˝ of bias binding. Cut 2 pieces 4˝ of bias binding.

exterior

interfacing

Cut 1 piece 4˝ × 291/2˝ for the bottom panel.

Cut 1 piece 4˝ × 291/2˝ for the bottom panel.

Cut 2 pieces 2˝ × 23˝ for the zipper panels.

Cut 2 pieces 2˝ × 23˝ for the zipper panels.

Cut 4 pieces 31/4˝ × 25˝ for the handles.

Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Cut 2 pieces 31/2˝ × 4˝ for the side loops.

scrap

Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Cut 2 Heart pieces.

Cut 1 Pocket piece.

lining Cut 1 piece 4˝ × 291/2˝ for the bottom panel. Cut 2 pieces 2˝ × 23˝ for the zipper panels. Cut 2 Front/Back pieces.

Preparing the Handles 1. Pin 2 handle pieces together along the 31/4˝ edges, with right sides together. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Press the seam open.

2. Fold in half lengthwise, with the wrong

sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the handle with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the handle 1/2˝, and press. Fold in half again along the first crease, and press. Repeat for the remaining 2 handle pieces.

Stitch handle pieces together.

129

{ rebecca bag }


Attaching the Pocket and Handles 1. To hem the pocket edge, fold over the

top (straight) edge of the pocket piece 1˝ to the wrong side, and press. Fold over another 1˝, and press. Pin and topstitch 1/8˝ from both folded edges.

2. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side

Hem pocket.

of the exterior front, back, zipper, and bottom panels.

3. Pin the exterior front to the lining front, A

with wrong sides together. Pin the pocket to the exterior front, aligning the side and bottom edges and point A markings. Baste the 3 layers in place.

A

4. Position a handle over the assembled

front, with the 2 ends of the handle aligned with the bottom edges, as indicated on the front/back pattern. Working from the bottom edge upward, pin each side of the handle in place, through all the layers, up to the handle lines. Then pin the remaining folded edges of the handle together.

Baste lining, exterior, and pocket together.

5. Topstitch both ends of the handle to the

assembled front, 1/8˝ from the edges. Begin at the bottom edge, and stitch up one side. Pivot at the handle line, and stitch back and forth across the handle line several times to reinforce. Then pivot and continue down the other side of the handle.

Handle lines

6. Topstitch the center portion of the handle between the handle lines, 1/8˝ from both long edges, backtacking at the ends.

7. Repeat Steps 3–6 to sew the other handle to the exterior and lining back pieces, omitting the pocket.

Pin handle to exterior from bottom edge to Handle lines.

130

Bags—The Modern Classics


Installing the Zipper 1. Referring to the photo at right, close the

zipper, and place it on an exterior zipper panel piece, with right sides together. Position the zipper pull 5/8˝ from a short end of the zipper panel, and then align the edge of the zipper tape along the top raw edge of the zipper panel. Trim excess zipper tape from the opposite end of the zipper panel, but not closer than 1/4˝ from the zipper stop. If you need to trim away more of the zipper, see Shortening Zipper Length (page 12).

Pin zipper to exterior zipper panel.

2. Pin the zipper to the zipper panel. 3. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the zipper panel, 1/8˝ from the edge of the tape, backtacking at both ends.

4. Pin the top edges of the lining zipper

panel and the exterior zipper panel with right sides together. The zipper will now be between the top panel and the lining.

5. Using a zipper foot, sew the 3 layers

Pin lining zipper panel to exterior zipper panel.

together close to the zipper coils, backtacking at both ends.

6. Flip the lining over to the wrong side, and press. Topstitch the exterior zipper panel close to the zipper coils.

7. Repeat Steps 2–6 to attach the remaining exterior zipper panel and lining zipper panel to the other side of the zipper.

Topstitch zipper panel close to zipper coils.

Attach remaining zipper panels to other side of zipper.

131

{ rebecca bag }


Making the Side Loops 1. Fold a side loop piece in half lengthwise,

with the wrong sides together, and press to make a crease. Open the side loop with the wrong side facing you. Fold in each side of the loop 1/2˝, and press.

Make 2 side loops.

2. Fold in half again along the first crease,

and press. Topstitch 1/8˝ from the folded-in sides. Repeat for the other side loop piece.

Connecting the Zipper Panels and Bottom Panel 1. Pin the exterior bottom panel to the lining

bottom panel, with wrong sides together, and baste the long edges. Fold the loop pieces in half, and center a folded loop at each short end of the exterior bottom panel, aligning the raw edges. Baste the loops to the bottom panel.

Baste loops to bottom panel.

2. Pin the ends of the assembled zipper panel

to the ends of the bottom panel to form a ring, with the exterior sides together and the loops sandwiched in between. Stitch the seams. Trim the seam allowances to 3/8˝.

3. Unfold a 4˝ length of bias binding. Pin

Stitch zipper panel to bottom panel.

the binding to the seam, matching the raw edges, with right sides together.

4. Stitch along the crease line closest to the

edge of the seam, backtacking at both ends. Fold the binding over to encase the raw edge, and pin.

5. Topstitch the binding 1/8˝ from the inner

fold of the binding, through all the layers.

Fold binding over to encase raw edge, and pin.

6. Repeat Steps 3–5 for the other seam. 132

Bags—The Modern Classics


Assembling the Bag 1. Fold the assembled zipper/bottom panel

to find and mark the centers of both the zipper panel and the bottom panel. Pin the zipper/bottom panel to the front, with exterior sides together; match the centers to the front centers and the zipper/bottom panel seams to the point B markings on the front. Clip the zipper/bottom panel only as necessary to help ease it around the curve of the front piece.

2. Sew around the bag in 2 sections, stitching from points B to B and backtacking at the end of each section. Trim the seam allowances to 3/8˝.

Sew zipper/bottom panel to front.

3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to attach the back piece.

Adding Bias Binding 1. Unfold the 53˝ length of bias binding.

Fold and press under a short end of the bias binding 1/2˝. Beginning at the bottom center, pin the raw edge of the bias binding to the outside edge of the bag, with right sides together. Pin all the way around, lapping the end of the bias binding over the folded end 1/2˝.

2. Stitch along the crease line closest to the

Pin binding around outside edge.

outside edge. Fold the binding over to encase the raw edge, and pin.

3. Topstitch the binding 1/8˝ from the inner

fold of the binding, through all the layers. Turn the bag right side out, and press.

Fold binding over to encase raw edge, and pin.

133

{ rebecca bag }


Making the Heart Ornament 1. Pin the heart pieces, wrong sides together. Sew around the edge using a 1/2Ë? seam allowance and leaving 2Ë? unstitched along the side edge for stuffing. Backtack at the ends.

2. Fill with fiberfill, and stitch the opening closed. Trim the seam using pinking shears.

3. Fold the leather cord in half,

and securely sew the ends to the center back of the heart. Loop the folded cord around the handle to attach it to the bag.

Heart ornament

134

Bags—The Modern Classics


135

{ rebecca bag }


{ smart school bag } Have you ever thought about carrying your own handmade bag to school? Well, now you can! The various pockets inside the bag make it possible to store a variety of things, from pencil cases to papers. Durable canvas, corduroy, recycled denim, or thick linen fabric work especially well for this bag, and you won’t have to interface it!

Use the Smart Schoolbag Bottom Corner and the Smart Schoolbag Flap Corner patterns on pullout page P-2.

FINISHED SIZE: 17˝ × 14˝, plus 28˝ handle

SKILL LEVEL: WHAT YOU NEED Fabric amounts are based on 44˝-wide fabric. 11/8 yards for exterior 11/8 yards for lining

8˝ of 1˝-wide hookand-loop tape 11/2˝–21/2˝ toggle or button (optional)

136

Bags—The Modern Classics


CUTTING THE PIECES Follow the instructions in Making and Using the Patterns (page 9). Transfer all points and references to the fabric.

exterior Cut 2 pieces 18˝ × 44˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Bag diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Smart Schoolbag Bottom Corner template. Use the measurements on the Bag diagram and the Smart Schoolbag Flap template to trim out a large rectangle on each piece, forming the straps. Save a large piece that you cut away to use for the flap. From the large piece that you saved when cutting the front and back, cut 1 piece 131/2˝ × 13˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the piece and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Smart Schoolbag Flap Corner template. 2¼˝

lining Cut 2 pieces 18˝ × 44˝ for the front and back. Refer to the Bag diagram to mark the pieces and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Smart Schoolbag Bottom Corner and the Smart Schoolbag Flap Corner templates. Save the large pieces that you cut away to use for the flap and the pocket. From a large piece that you saved when cutting the front and back, cut 1 piece 131/2˝ × 13˝ for the flap. Refer to the Flap diagram to mark the piece and to trace and trim the bottom corners using the Smart Schoolbag Flap Corner template.

2¼˝ 5˝

5˝ C

C Cut away, and use one piece for flap.

Cut away.

Use Flap Corner template.

From the remaining saved pieces, cut 2 pieces 13˝ × 7˝ for the pocket.

9˝ Flap

15˝

13˝ Hook-and-loop tape (Lining flap only) 1½˝ 13½˝

B

A

Hook-and-loop tape (Exterior front only)

A Trim corner. Bag diagram

Flap diagram

137

{ smart school bag }

B

A A

Trim corner.


Making the Pocket 1. Make the pocket (see Making a Pocket,

page 14). Refer to the Pocket Placement diagram to center the pocket on the right side of a lining front or back piece, with the upper (12˝ finished) edge of the pocket placed 3˝ from the top edge of the lining. Topstitch the pocket in place—down one side, across the bottom, and back up the other side, backtacking at both ends.

6½˝

2½˝ Pocket

2. To separate the pocket into smaller sec-

tions, stitch a seam 61/2˝ from the left edge of the pocket, backtacking at the ends to secure. Stitch another seam 21/2˝ from the right edge in the same manner.

Pocket Placement diagram

Sewing the Exterior and Lining 1. Separate the hook-and-loop tape, and

attach the softer piece to the exterior front as marked. Sew the rougher half to the lining flap as marked.

2. Sew the darts on the exterior front and

back pieces (see Sewing Darts and Pleats, page 16). Press the darts on the front piece toward the center and on the back piece toward the outside seams.

Sew front and back darts, and press.

3. Pin the exterior front and back pieces

together around the outside edge, from the top of one handle to the top of the other, with right sides facing. The darts on the front and back pieces will be pressed in opposite directions, so they will lie flat.

Pin front and back together around outside edge.

138

Bags—The Modern Classics


4. Sew around the outside edge, backtacking

at both ends. Notch the curved seam. Press the seam open.

5. Repeat Steps 2–4 with the lining pieces, leaving 5˝ unstitched along the bottom edge for turning.

Assembling the Exterior and Lining 1. Turn the exterior right side out. Insert the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

2. Pin the exterior and lining together around the inner curved seams on both the front and back between the C markings (see Bag diagram, page 137).

Insert exterior inside lining.

3. Stitch the inner curved seams as pinned on both the front and the back, backtacking at both ends. Clip the curved seams. Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining. Push out the handles. Slipstitch the opening closed.

4. Pin the short edges of the exterior handles together, right sides facing.

C

Pin exterior and lining together.

Pin short edges of exterior handle together.

139

{ smart school bag }


5. Stitch the seam, backtacking at both ends. Press the seam open. Repeat for the lining handle.

6. Turn under 1/2˝ on the raw

side edges of the lining and exterior handle, and press. Pin or baste the turned-under edges.

Stitch short edges of handle together.

7. Topstitch around the handle

and the top of the bag, 1/8˝ from the edges. The turnedunder edges will be secured in the topstitching.

Pin or baste turned-under edges of handle.

Topstitch around handle.

140

Bags—The Modern Classics


Attaching the Flap 1. Optional: If you are attaching a

toggle, center the cords on the right side of the curved edge of the exterior flap. Stitch in position 3/8˝ from the edge, backstitching to secure.

2. Pin the exterior flap and lining

flap, with right sides together. Stitch around the flap, leaving 3˝ unstitched on the top straight edge for turning. Trim the corners, and notch the curved seam. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝.

Attach optional toggle.

3. Turn right side out. Press, and

topstitch 1/8˝ from the outer curved seam only. Tuck in the seam allowances on the unstitched opening, press, and slipstitch the opening closed.

4. Center the flap on the back of

Topstitch curved seam.

the bag, 1˝ down from the top edge. Pin the flap to the bag. Check the position of the hookand-loop tape and adjust the flap if needed. Stitch in place along the straight edge, backtacking at both ends to reinforce.

5. Optional: Sew the button in place.

Stitch flap to back.

141

{ smart school bag }


142

Bags—The Modern Classics


Resources beingbags.etsy.com

{ about the author } Sue Kim lives in Toronto with her three lovely children and husband. Currently she is running the PDF pattern website ithinksew.com. Her projects will help you have fun as you gain confidence and experience. Sue has a keen eye for style and a special talent for making fashionable and functional clutches and bags.

beingbags@yahoo.com San Jose, CA

Amy Butler Design

122 South Prospect Street Granville, OH 43023 amybutler.design.com Tel.: 740-587-2841 Fax: 740-587-2842

Michelle Dunn

www.kallistiquilts.com www.kallistiquilts.etsy.com Tel.: 519-569-8718

Evelyn’s Sewing Centre

17817 Leslie Street, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6, Canada thequiltstore.ca Tel.: 905-853-7001

Fabricland

fabricland.ca fabriclandwest.com

Robert Kaufman Fabrics

Box 59266, Greenmead Station Los Angeles, CA 90059 info@robertkaufman.com Tel.: 310-538-3482 Toll-Free: 800-877-2066

Miami Leather Company

Box 131 Morden, MB R6M 1V9, Canada Tel.: 204-435-2878 Ext. 282

Michael Miller Fabrics, LLC 118 West 22nd Street, 5th Floor New York, NY 10011 info@michaelmillerfabric.com Tel.: 212-704-0774 Fax: 212-633-0272

mimis.etsy.com

6533 County Highway 27 Springville, AL 35146 Tel.: 205-467-7565

143

{ about the author/resources }


If you’re craving beautiful authenticity in a time of mass-production…Stash Books is for you. Stash Books is a line of how-to books celebrating fabric arts for a handmade lifestyle. Backed by C&T Publishing’s solid reputation for quality, Stash Books will inspire you with contemporary designs, clear and simple instructions, and engaging photography.

www.stashbooks.com


Bags—The Modern Classics Download Copyright © 2011 by C&T Publishing, Inc. ISBN 978-1-60705-401-6 Published by C&T Publishing, Inc., PO Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549. www.ctpub.com All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be used in any form or reproduced by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission from the Publisher. Acceptable uses of this ELECTRONIC PRODUCT: 1. Purchaser is entitled to print out as many copies of this ELECTRONIC PRODUCT as they wish for personal use. Photocopying, digitizing, and all other forms of copying to “share” or “distribute” the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT, whether for profit or not, is strictly prohibited. 2. Purchaser may not transfer the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT to any other person, via the Internet, email, on disk, in electronic or printed form or any other form without the written permission of C&T Publishing. Purchaser may not make the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT available over a network where it could be used by multiple computers at the same time. 3. Purchaser may not rent, lease, transfer, lend, or share the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT. Limited Warranty: Limited Warranty on this ELECTRONIC PRODUCT. C&T Publishing, Inc. warrants the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT will be delivered by C&T Publishing, Inc. free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use for a period of ninety (90) days from the date of original purchase. C&T Publishing, Inc. will not replace the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT due to Purchaser changing computers or accidentally deleting ELECTRONIC PRODUCT or for any other loss of the file that is considered out of the control of C&T Publishing, Inc. Your exclusive remedy under this Section shall be, at C&T Publishing, Inc.’s option, a refund of the purchase price of the ELECTRONIC PRODUCT. Contact us at 800-284-1114 or www.ctpub.com for more information about the C&T Teachers Program. We take great care to ensure that the information included in our products is accurate and presented in good faith, but no warranty is provided nor are results guaranteed. Having no control over the choices of materials or procedures used, neither the author nor C&T Publishing, Inc., shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this book. For your convenience, we post an up-to-date listing of corrections on our website (www.ctpub.com). If a correction is not already noted, please contact our customer service department at ctinfo@ctpub.com or at P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549. Trademark (™) and registered trademark (®) names are used throughout this ELECTRONIC PRODUCT. Rather than use the symbols with every occurrence of a trademark or registered trademark name, we are using the names only in the editorial fashion and to the benefit of the owner, with no intention of infringement. Pattern Note: This digital file contains patterns that may not print true to size and may require sizing adjustments (inchmarks are included on patterns for reference). Depending on your viewing application or device, printing desired page may result in multiple printed pages.


Fabric edge

e ( Exterior back

Flap stitching lin

Betty Wallet Exterior/Lining/Pocket Corner

only)

Fabric edge

Sunglasses Case Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2 Lining: Cut 2 Interfacing: Cut 1

Side edge

Center fold line

Magnetic snap (Exterior front only)

B

A

Side edge

Side edge

A

Sunglasses Case Flap Corner

Bottom edge 1� Bottom edge

Pencil Case Flap Corner Pencil Case Front/Back Corner

Use ruler to measure these inchmarks to verify that printout is correctly sized.

Bottom edge

P1


Fold line 4 Placement line 3

1�

Center stitching line

Betty Wallet Card Holder Pocket and Card holder fabric: Cut 1

Join to pattern on P3.

P2


Fold line 3 Placement line 2

Fold line 2 Placement line 1

1�

Center st

Join to pattern on P2.

Betty Wallet Card Holder

Join to pattern on P4.

P3


Join to pattern on P3.

P4

Fold line 2 Placement line 1

Fold line 1

Betty Wallet Card Holder

1�


Fold line

Match line Match line

Match line

Fold line

Match line

Center Match line

Fold line

Match line

Match line

1�

Bottom edge

Match line

Wristlet Zipper Purse Top Panel Corner: Large

Bottom edge

Fold line

Wristlet Zipper Purse Top Panel Corner: Small

Fold line

Bottom edge

Match line

Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel: Large

Match line

Side edge

Match line

Side edge

Side edge Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel Corner

Bottom row

Top row

Side seam

Fold line

Match line

P5


Side edge

Wristlet Zipper Purse Corsage Petal Cut 1.

Wristlet Zipper Purse Corsage Petal Cut 1.

Side edge

Wristlet Zipper Purse Corsage Petal Cut 1.

Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Small

1�

Bottom edge

Bottom edge

Wristlet Zipper Purse Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner: Large

P6


Top row

Bottom row

Side seam

Match line

Match line

Match line

e edg e Sid

Match line Side edge

Match line

Fold line Wristlet Zipper Purse Pleat Panel: Small

Fold line

1�

Match line Fold line

Fold line

Match line

Match line

Center

Glenda Clutch Front/Back Corner

Glenda Clutch Flap Corner

B

A

A Bottom edge Bottom edge

P7


e nc ga Ele ch ut

Cl

Grainline

A

Elegance Pleated Clutch Side Exterior: Cut 4. Center fold line 1�

Elegance Pleated Clutch Lining Front/Back Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

P8


M

h atc

line

line

d Fol

ch Mat

h line Matc

e

lin

Elegance Pleated Clutch Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Bottom edge

Bottom edge

Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel Corner

A ch ut l C ce n ga Ele Side edge

Fold line

Center fold line

Match line

Magnetic snap (Front only)

1�

P9

Side edge Elegance Pleated Clutch Flap Corner

Bottom edge

Uptown Clutch Top Panel Corner

Side ed

ge


Match line

Match line

Fold line

Match line

Match line

Fold line

Match line

Fold line

Uptown Clutch Pleat Panel

Match lineClutch Uptown Pleat Panel

Side seam

Match line

Join to pattern on left.

Fold line Fold line

Match line

Top row

Match line

Fold line

Match line

Match line

Fold line

Match line

Match line

Side edge

Bottom ro

Top row

Join to pattern on right.

Match line

Bottom row

Fold line Match line Side edg

e

Match line

Side edge

Fold line

1�

Fold line Match line Match line

Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner

Uptown Clutch Flap Corner

Uptown Clutch Exterior Back and Lining Front/Back Corner

Match line

Match line

Center panel seam Bottom edge

Bottom edge

P10


Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

D

B

E

C

A

Part A

Clarissa Bag E

Clarissa Bag D

1�

Join to Part B on P12.

Join to Part C on P13. Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2.

P11


Join to Part A on P11.

Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Part B Join to Part C on P13.

1�

Join to Part D on P14.

P12

Cente


Join to Part A on P11.

rissa Bag Back : Cut 2. Cut 2. g: Cut 2.

Join to Part B on P12.

Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back

Part C

1�

Join to Part E on P15. P13


Join to Part B on P12. Center fold line

Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back

Join to Part E on P15.

Part D

B

B

1�

A

A

A

P14


Join to Part C on P13.

Lovely Clarissa Bag Front/Back

Join to Part D on P14.

1�

Part E

Center fold line

Clarissa Bag C

A

Join to pattern on P16.

C

Lovely Clarissa Bag Bottom

B

A

P15


Join to pattern on P15.

Center fold line

1�

Clarissa Bag C

Lovely Clarissa Bag Bottom Exterior: Cut 1. Lining: Cut 1. Interfacing: Cut 1.

P16


Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference. Chic Hobo Bag C

D

B E

A

C

1�

Chic Hobo Bag C

Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Chic Ho Front Exterior Lining: Interfacin

Part A

Join to Part B on P18.

Join to Part C on P19.

P17


Join to Part A on P17.

Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back Part B Join to Part C on P19.

1�

Chic Hobo Bag Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Join to Part D on P20. P18


Join to Part A on P17.

Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back Part C

Join to Part B on P18.

1�

Join to Part E on P21. P19


Join to Part B on P18.

Center fold line

Join to Part E on P21.

Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back Part D

1�

P20

B


Join to Part C on P19.

Chic Hobo Bag Front/Back Part E

1�

Join to Part D on P20. B

A

A

P21


Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front

A

To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

D

B C

E

1�

Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Exterior: Cut 1.

A

Join to Part D on P25.

Mat ch l ine

Fol d

line

Mat ch l ine

Part A Join to Part B on P23.

M ch at lin

d

e

l Fo lin e

M ch at e

lin

P22 h Matc

l Fold


Join to Part D on P25.

e

M

ch at

lin

e

ld

Fo

lin

e

Join to Part A on P22.

M

ch at

lin

h line Matc ne

li Fold

h line Matc

1�

Join to Part C on P24.

Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Part B

Join to Part E on P26.

Center fo

P23


Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Part C

Join to Part B on P23.

Join to Part E on P26.

1�

Center fold line

P24


Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Part D Join to Part A on P22. 1�

Join to Part B on P23. Join to Part E on P26.

Veronica Day BagP25 Exterior Front Exterior: Cut 1.


Join to Part D on P25. Join to Part B on P23.

Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Exterior: Cut 1.

Join to Part C on P24.

Veronica Day Bag Exterior Front Part E

1�

P26


Join to pattern on left.

Veronica Bag B

Veronica Bag C

Veronica Bag A

1�

Join to pattern on right.

Center fold line

Veronica Day Bag Handle Exterior: Cut 2. Handle Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

P27


Veronica Day Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

A B

C A

D

1�

Join to Part C on P30.

Exterior: Cut 1. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Part A

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Join to Part B on P29.

P28


Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Join to Part A on P28.

Join to Part D on P31.

Center fold line

Veronica Day Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Part B

1�

P29


Join to Part A on P28.

Veronica Day Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Part C

1�

Join to Part D on P31.

P30


Join to Part C on P30.

Join to Part B on P29. 1�

Veronica Day Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Part D P31


Metro Shopping Bag Front/Back To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

B

C

Join to Part B on P33.

Part A

C

A

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

1�

P32


Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Join to Part C on P34.

Metro Shopping Bag Front/Back Part B

Join to Part A on P32.

1�

Center fold line

P33


Metro Bag B

Metro Shopping Bag Front/Back Part C

Join to Part B on P33.

Metro Bag A

1�

old line

P34


C

1�

Metro Shopping Bag Side/Bottom Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Join to pattern on P36.

P35


Join to pattern on P35.

Center fold line

Metro Bag A

Metro Shopping Bag Side/Bottom

1�

Join to pattern on P37. B

P36


Metro Bag B

Join to pattern on P36.

1�

Metro Shopping Bag Side/Bottom P37


Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Pleats Panel To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

B

A

C

D

1�

Join to Part B on P39.

Exterior: Cut 1.

Part A

Join to Part D on P41. P38


1�

Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Pleats Panel Part B Mat ch li

ne

Fold l

Matc

Join to Part A on P38.

ine

h lin

Match

e

line

Fold l in

e

Join to Part C on P40. P39


Match

line

Join to Part B on P39.

Fold l in

e

Match

line

Join to Part D on P41.

Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Pleats Panel Part C Match line

Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Pleats Panel Exterior: Cut 1.

Fold line

Match line

1�

Center fold lin

P40


Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Pleats Panel Part D

Join to Part C on P40.

Exterior Front Pleats Panel Exterior: Cut 1.

Join to Part A on P38.

1�

Center fold line

P41


A

1�

Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Top Front

Join to pattern on P43. P42


Top edge Urban Carryall Bag A

Urban Carryall Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner

1�

Join to pattern on P42.

Center fold line Urban Carryall Bag Exterior Front Top Exterior: Cut 1.

Join to pattern on P44. P43


1�

Join to pattern on P43.

Jo in to rn tte pa on ht rig

Urban Carryall Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner

Bottom edge

Jo in to rn tte pa on t. l ef

Urban Carryall Bag Lining Front/Back and Exterior Back Corner

P44


B

1�

Cute Elizabeth Bag Side/Bottom Exterior: Cut 1. Lining: Cut 1. Interfacing: Cut 1.

Join to pattern on P46.

P45


Join to pattern on P45.

Cute Elizabeth Bag Side/Bottom

A

A

1�

Center fold line

P46


Cute Elizabeth Bag Front/Back To make complete pattern, join the following pages, following the diagram for reference.

Join to Part A on left.

A

D

B C

E

Part A Join to Part B on right.

Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Part B

Join to Part D on P49.

Magnetic snap (Lining only)

1�

Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Join to Part C on P48.

P47


Join to Part B on P47.

Join to Part E on P49.

Center fold line

Cute Elizabeth Bag Front/Back Part C

1�

Cute Elizabeth Bag A

P48


Join to Part C on P48.

1�

B Bag h t abe Eliz

te Cu

C Bag h t abe Eliz

Cute Elizabeth Bag Front/Back Part E

Join to Part B on P47.

te Cu

Join to Part D on same page. th abe Eliz

Join to Part E on same page.

te Cu

Cute Elizabeth Bag Front/Back Part D

P49

Ba


Sweet Annemarie Bag Flap Exterior: Cut 1. Lining: Cut 1. Interfacing: Cut 1.

Center fold line Magnetic snap (Lining only)

1�

P50


1�

Center fo ld line Magnetic snap (Exterior front only )

B

Sweet An nemarie Bag Front/Ba ck Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: C u Interfacin t 2. g: Cut 2.

A

A

P51


Fold on dotted lines.

Side edge

Floral Bag Petal Corsage: Cut 13.

B

Floral Bag Bottom Corner A

1�

A

Bottom edge

P52


1�

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 2

Join to Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 2 along dashed line.

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 Part A

Join to Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 along dashed line.

Join to Part B on P54. P53


Easy Lazy Bag Magnetic snap

1�

P54

Join to Part C on P55.

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 Join to Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 2 before cutting. Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing (optional): Cut 2.

Join to Part A on P53.

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 Part B


Easy Lazy Bag Magnetic snap (Lining only)

Join to Part D on P56.

Join to Part B on P54.

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 Part C

1�

Center fold line

P55


Join to Part C on P55.

1�

P56

Easy Lazy Bag Front/Back: 1 Part D


Join to pattern on P58.

Elva Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Magnetic snap (Exterior front only)

Center fold line D

B

A

1�

A C

P57


Elva Bag Front/Back

E

Join to pattern on P57.

F

Elva Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

F

Magnetic snap (Exterior front only)

1�

Center fold line

E

E

Elva Bag Side/Bottom Part A

Join to Part B on P59. B

D

P58


Join to Part A on P58.

Grainline

Elva Bag Side/Bottom Part B

1�

D

C

D

Join to Part C on P60.

C

P59


C

C

Join to Part B on P59.

Elva Bag Side/Bottom Part C

Elva Bag Side/Bottom Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

Side edge

Center seam

1�

Elva Bag Flap Corner

Bottom edge

P60


Rebecaa Bag Front/Back Part A

Join to Part B on P62.

Handle line

Rebecca Bag Front/Back Exterior: Cut 2. Lining: Cut 2. Interfacing: Cut 2.

1�

P61


Join to Part C on P63.

Rebecaa Bag Front/Back Part B

Rebecca Bag B Rebecca Bag A

Join to Part A on P61.

1�

Center fold line

P62


Rebecca Bag Handle

Join to Part B on P62.

Rebecaa Bag Front/Back Part C

1�

P63


1�

Center fold line

P64

Join to pattern on P65.

Rebecaa Bag Pocket

Rebecca Bag A


Handle

Join to pattern on P64.

Rebecca Bag Pocket Exterior: Cut 1.

Rebecca Bag Heart Scrap: Cut 2.

1�

P65

Center fold line


Side edge

1�

Smart School Bag Flap Corner

Bottom edge

Side edge

B

Smart School Bag Bottom Corner

A

A

Bottom edge

P66


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CRAFTS/Sewing

Bag

the makes the outfit! Make your own fashion statement with these sophisticated, runway-worthy bag designs • Create perfectly polished bags in no time with easy construction techniques • Each of the 19 projects has multiple variations for more than 75 different stylish ways to carry it all

“I love the different styles and versatile patterns...even a beginner can learn to sew these bags and create a one-of-a-kind look.” —Mindy Terry

US $24.95 ISBN 978-1-60705-388-0

10817

52495

9 781607 053880

Also available as an eBook

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