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Sеч;iпg Воо fealuring the Simplicity Unit System of Sewing

. step-by-step coпstruction of 7 garments . tips оп handling the пеw fabrics о professioпal finishing tricks . the ABCs ol tailoring ... апd оп evёry page, aids for Ьеgiппеr or expert

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*_,*::-:-*-*-

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tabIв of contents simplicity's шnit system 0t sЕwing о

right ideas

2-8

gOOd сqшiрmsпt о

llattЕr with fabrics о апd раttеrп type о

kпOW уOчr

lпOvi

'igшre J0[] natt€rn size

measurements

"

"

о

checking meaýuaem0nts сOmЬiпiлg раПе]пs

о

t0 use а pattcrn

hOW

constmction symb0ls

filst things first

pageý

о

о

раttorп altcrati0пs

sешiпg dictionary

needle, thread and stitch guide

.

.

fahricý о cutting о mа*iпg о

darts о s€аms о

thB Bxpert makes 7 garments

а

tl0uýe о

а

skirt о

а

dreýs о

а child'ý droýs о а c0at

oIiacket

о

ýlacks 0r ýh0rts о

а пап's ýports ýhirt

о

interfacing о чпdеIliпiпg

litting.

.

.

pressin8 о butt0nholes о huttons о

0thеr fasteningý о zippers

details that сочпt

linishing trický

о placlets

.

collals о sleeves . pockets . hems о hеltý basic stitchвs о tucks о hindingý о pipingý

"

о

pleats о rulfles о dec0rative t0uches о

tIimmiп8s о lacв о embroide]y. hemstitching.

tailolinд

.

о mеп's and b0ys' clothing

о

'ч]

itity PlLtt.,lп lо, [ п(. 2ОП ,ll ddisr),l Дr, luc,l\'t ч,У,,r,1 ýilп 1l

/о,

ý.]: .ё


ina

цпitý

blo llý0lo, dresý bodice)

ski rt (оr dress skirt)

dross

чпit

ппit

niib l tk.цt ?

шпit

1

baýic

jba!!i

units in а basic

1

unitý 1

ilffi

Unit 2

чпit 3

0.it з

цпit 4

цпit 4

tirо!ф

3

laýt Unit bodic. апd skilt joined;

lrопl зп.] blci lo'n.n:

waistband (in а seParste зliгt

шtlit 5

front, baclr lnd соllаг joined

ulit

5

lтont. back lпd \ъistЬ!пd

цnit 6

{nit 7

fTont, Ьпсk,

.oltl. lпd

зlее!е

simplicity's цпit syýtem of sеwiпg а "d0 it faster" idea want to make mоге things in lевs time? Yоu will if уол use Simplicity'ý Unit S$t€п it's planned to make the 1voTk gо fast, lаз'rr, lФreýrl

tc

ý.ч

Lr.

S* aЦ Ев r|-rll L'nit construction not oniy ýpe€ds up th€ worki it slýо minimizeý hяndling of the 8lrй! Ё l_f, А better lookina, b€tter finished gаrmепt plus sдvingý in time and епеIgу. And - ýр..iдl lffi} - il 9ф ornot se\t for а long реriй of time, -.hort р€riоds сап Ье utilized to make опе ulil .1' arlEt drilrd..t d i, SatiФ 3 о' thiý ьook дrе mаd€ accoIding to the Simplicity Unit S)d.- a gr{.

In this ýystem, all wогk is completed aS far as роýýiЫе on one section, оr unit, of the i|rra.a on to the next unit, дs units аге comp]eted, they аrе added to each otheT until the entrr!

,


gOOd equipment

а "d0 it foetter" idea

l|'"] t]1;",r,a].i, 11,1L ]iЕаrпзL .Ilclt.:i]lisФ.n xst] tЪr neS.1.ools, l1 ri]lrt So1,1]!g 1ools ]!|L] |ij.] le3t qua]jtг

it'j

lll..d

апа if !()u licep then in А t co di|;on, lxiomalic, too, 1iut tlrc cilthc]J },o|t m!]re ,ýiil Ьс

1,0х сап

,,l

1,1 "n]-,,-

l,n,

irtli( i{J!t 1tlilgeDe]r1 of tI.:e tФ]s a]so ift.]leaýes arоог ý.1!inя.jtlicidl]r. 1f loll с!ппо| hxLc а Sewirrg .l,,,,]]

alrangenrri1 of !OrI gcýi!!: eql]]ro!en'l, d.Ijlarl tlr(] n!)st convcljiln ]хIоlLl !f r!] r |Ools e.|ctj iirле rjr ..uJ.,. ilrc ilonina bollrd ljF|i bi. tne seirj.g .,,, лj

up,

yo

l' g l, hanc] rclch,

t]:I.ad, jtissoTs, (]t., Wjihin.lt!i ']l find thc wol]t goi]lq j'rst.l ltnd !]оlt , ,

sep Ig

Е

ýhиrý апС ýсВýOк. То] lTj,l ]1r]:i l]il1]l{,.Lll1il]: Jx]ll|,..

й (а {ý a,

чпirr!ijs li:|].Jl Гi.liсt. i.,li.]:rrrr]j:lj.l]i] r.lir:xi( rl"",,,,oi"g"i,,n, i],slrIl !:,,] r: il. iiI: :ir[.,] (ilL],!r:, ]l I.I l |. ].|1 r.r.ir.i,lel1 ]]:..]i] (!LL]i: 9]l.rr: :,Jr r:i]L.]t]r.

s -

:]:о д:,.]I ]л| ] l! i.l ,j]ti: l! rr"r llLstill ]]t]Ln!(l1ol!i)iit nl r.,lrljlrl!, thifible. ol. tape fteaýure,'i] n,rrIs ]опц l,itn.nali !пi; ruleБ_ А Lr" x,,i l3" rl,t t !ail]rli., I,]\li,, b]I t} jti,.l0trL]i |l r ]" 11 i]' i!P \ jth .: s]i.la l-. .slib]jsbixg tIi9 тз lIn]q ]]i]]1 JOss akeis tIaciflq lapar.l',lI n i.,Lil,;] !....1lrIlj.n .rr.n,il

thrcad,

l1.r "llir].1.1Illr lh:lл |[. (i,l( ] ol

tiacirgwheol,T. L:J. \li|| lhI iLcis!al,!lS il:lLirI r.po.. Ti. n1.1]11. !oinl,!lL.ll ь L.n l.r Tor ] !i]l] ро "1 l 1: 01 (. |]i.l]]li,ii. ta!l0ls ct]alk, 3"t| !rhite апа .о].рd ;'.l .]:.r ilr]q ]l!]], :,lld ,i.ll l i]br i_. р}еýзiпg c]Othý, {ll ,t L.,],l, L "1 !ь li .l, ] l]]1r,

SmooLh]_Y,

aа ir бl

needl0ý, i(., l,,,, lrrl,]l ;tnll:i.l,i]li-Tl]1 Si;:.i аa nr1,,l,n]ё |rl,d. 1nL] l,iJ]. nce.]li| ,] s'.all o..l !.] xli'i.l.'l..l Pirl$, ]. lrrs 1i tjOr l]l., s]ri]]I]. "!]]j' ]tiл, ]lS 1t(r

liachii!, Ilc]j1I;., ir t.s\iЪl.,,! .,bill.r .jarbil.

оl l ]:iIg]] lhLcr oI L.:,1r .ir]]l(i l ) rJ, .!.r ! s)ji,t],,l'|!r]l Tri]],as.rSI]ol. bri]. l,,!.. ] ]1L, S|iil ll, ] |.l ]]".ý-],:j n],)]. \ ]l ["L, l"l,-:l::: r:riд., Г li : ! :] ! | : i,l l ]ii l. :1lJii .l 1i..nlil.illl1 !Il!] ]',l]l. n]l ilt]l,,, t,]lilllL]: ]]:i..!r, i]п|lJ Ь1| i]г,Il,!.,::l1 rl],]l.,|.

iоп,

,.гаi.l boa,d, ' l r;:. l1.jt !i|[.]г Jr.L]ing.I li]iil( .ьп, h]rld 1

j

ilJ lni lojnt гl.ij.r.

]


BROAOctOTHs li ] ]] ;,

]]

_! 1]ij].i ýlr]. \nh ! c.lj!il. л!t rh|r, rnus| ,]]L ,i:l:', lll|i. [l]ln.l;|tn]g, tScl рlА. i]0,] ll,] it ll0*,l!\'.ll!]uS bin].. slrl jt r!itr 1D:rs. Il l,. ( ],.l , l]lllL]lr] ji].ar]el li] L L! Lrrllr rl. uslii r,0...!l ' l t] l,!Lt]l] n,,sl]iIi:, LlФn]s lпl] LIilon.] l]I.sl.]s,

].L]iri.эl]I. rn!l),of.bc l:lLlLcý ]Ыаd i| 0tl]tг l,.a}]r i.. !]]in ý..!4S. su.I] !;0rдJIjd! rr li ,оjlс sn.ýr ]n th. я:.п]] 0l jn{.r|,laL.ns i,] ]i: | |tr;) l.|r! llo l]l, .Iinll., Lril], (1.. Lu1 hаr.:. rl,n.ii sl]r'na.:]!l] !.. ll. ti:r! lo ]iibil,orllri, (,/irli;] Iol]LeIl]- 0niy i' :..1]]..о\! rl! in rl n1l]eti.i эпП llolr]s, 1 los. 1]Ij. !!lir grl. r !.r, SOlt hand. Nl.]' l]P гlэiп |r DIiпl!], a:l(йlt(l: _{ colttt Trrl di,,{г лN.г i;i..l ;]1.1 lilht.г Iillinц уагпч.ь:tr ]] lc 1r[. r.r, tlrT. ,sl]i/ll1,1l: Л l:lп, .l]Бli] uriglrlS ]l!hl елоu!h 1r.fl.i,: ,\ tIп] stl]isn }la],L Jl st]L о. rfr-].1 .r il t ls B.rt liir,1l llr nIlrr,. rl]1l l ,! ]l.rl.tr]Ы..!frt,i*,]il], slil)]}lil: Л glippllr rtrllil]ai ll]]lrr ol,rnlh.lic }lгпs..lЬо l]L l] ЬlзL.d lj.rL. cOARsE апd Л(]UGн WEAvts

,i: I]x! Lc тоlrп .f чолi r .ottDn ]],]n Pe..ral\ .o.!aiiS s]!ns ol !Jlr.!sr!n! .old' 1:Scn l(tr ]|ci,rs. l]lts, rujtl rn1l ii lllh}n,.iяbls lil.sl.s, ]/,],]1!,?] ] ]1r1]. i I l1rirk. 5x)]l1 1!l1s ]

r1

(

sATl!! !!EAvIS

,J

".

\?l in iilh.I D]ail ! ll1|ill1.,,., ii,l,i njr ч]|rLs |r ]l ll].s{'s //,,lNu(l],rr: А .o:Llsc, ]о,Бо Ьлчl(.. трiт! . 1I l]nr.l.:]lk, srnt]].|j(s or 1r00l. iij]j*jg,",] r,, tllt rn,1 rl1] jr(k{!, х

silk lйеп LlNE s апd тнЕ LlNlN LOOK

сfitрts

Hijb\ tBi'l(n s]l\ ]l]ain ! Plri] lп ici.,t.l

r.l] гrлg. lrоп] sllcr 1о l]1 l1lll a',1|!,] А 5o]L "пII!..(i lxLl Lc ,l ]Lцl l rJ,i п.liПш l.iцbls, pOp!l:lI lll (iI1.1cs !пtt:ujts sarirlti. a'r.lt, 1'I].ll !rl J!a.' l.рlё r.1,Ill|Иti.]Ls in IlIc S!nLb.uc ]inrrý rrl]!nl]] l|,n r].. r..!i ]lie suTllces ф |.]vii1 l.Lb]Ld 0пt!, a]o,,.]xi:r l0 (ireSБcs ai(tLl!us.s,

1]

сOпOS and пlвs

r

I

l!.clii 11i:]i]li ]] ,

rl


паUЕ д true !iачб is wov€n witb ]enalhwise or cюsswise Tibs, But theтe атё mапу fаЪтiсs сопmопlу Tefc...d to as piquб ý,h]ch aciually Аrе лоt, аS tbe rrised cll.ct i9iгeared lot Ьу vедтiпg but Ъу presвing ппd саппо1, Ье i.nýidered Pelmanent, Piquбs аr. usеd moslly for dгеsБеs, Sчmmег jsclets and созts lnd lог rгiпmiпgs Such ls collars апd culfs,

lacy *пil

кN!Is Best knovn are thе dille.ent types ot jPTse} i пtца9t ате the dоuЫе kn,tc a.tUglb two lауеrБ knitted togeth.r so right and wrопg sideз а.е alnost identical. knitted llЬ.ts ате соmfо.tаЫе, ргасtiса! зпd зmагt fo. drcsses, jacket

hildЗ еуо рiqчё

liпе Yiale piqud

sHEEпs

.r;lч,,

А tT,nSlrJ,e, t nLain.e*".,t ý,l]. ol sJ пtЬцlrý olten pTiпt.d o)r.lduj ]п Lottnn it hJs s sOmelvbэt Бtilт wirу focl, In ri k it rз called "JrgsnzA", l,il., Usually of cott.n bxt J]Sс ot silt, ý}ntbctr о. sпо lrLcrS, An o]ren p]9in lcnvc 0Ln. twiýlEl уJ.пз, pl inted i,r pllin, А рlдПl cotton veave btt with Sрасёd Ь.л!i.r iengthтige thread9 tЬдt give о co.dod.lfoct. 'inir!]

chiflOn

dimiiy

,iаfilе рПUЁ

ртiпФd shrntlng..

stuBs

YaTnS ý,ilЪ thickcned Segn]ents аrе uscd to яiчс а

snzzilzp: .{ рlдiп s,.дпс of si]k, syntb.tics or cotton, Nell liked foт SчпmеI suits and d.eýýeý, /'o2g.].j Usullly ol Silk, апd 8ofte. and iigЪtar n,eight iЬап sЪапttпg, Uscd iл sппmет d.esses,

TWlLLs

iчl like

'!t]k,'nyon, r.riari'бf yr'oar;.nl

Д basic veave that disDla!з а delinite diggonrt line, Dza;nr А cotton labтic чsчя]lу mаd. {,ith colored rуагр },аrлs and }'hite от lighteт 0о]от Пlliпg удrп9, Л/о,}.l: ajопсгаllу {,ith а чеIу stight]y парреd Balf5cc, Пool, 9lntheticý or b]ends дте used, aizьаrdr}.j тhе lwill is lin. дпd close, ln vоrstеd. cotton or Syntneti. уягпý, szгаrj _{ soft, dTapablc {,сл!с ot cottonj silk оr Synthct]cs tbat is usually ргiпtеd,

acetate, nylon

of cotton with арреаrапсе

to velvet lhо!Еh ýoven difierent]y, cofdlro!l Fо.mеIl' д]wауs of cotton ъut nol, пду llso Ье о| rауоп от пуlоп. Iп colduroy ihе pile iý cut i! lеп8tЪwisе Iibз оr "vates", Тh. s,alcs Dау Ье line, m€diub or {,ido. Fxl Lihe llаьгirs: о1 Syntlletic уагпS iп plain colors от ргiпlсd Lo IcscaЫe lninal pe]tý, Th.y mako iiяht but wатm $,iпtеr coais,

цеttе cilNKLES

]ёпgthý,iýе strilesТЬе cгinkle is produced Ьу Yаrуiпg the tcnsion ol the маrг у;гп! ]п thP ýeJ\i,Lt, , , ,аd Ь Sb, inPi' ь ý, |о' , л1^-, тл. с !lл.! il о1 tbe flbric with а cb.nical solutlon lпli is lot as lPrmanent }s lhc сгiпklс 0I sо.тsчсkеr, j U- J пU'' !',., ,1 llnP", F,

s../я!.rzr: i'.чеп \,ith сгiпklсd

.1',', 1 l',t,i" с:,,, -LL,. \, s,rJ" л""j__l,,, ,, ,l n'l" U,l,:, P,l , ..1е ","\.-t,u' ,1еа,cj I , .."-ь,",,,,, oI soe. sl,,elve аlо " as it пееdS i;* n.nt. P. tical iъr sumnlor dтesýes little о. .о рrсssiпg дltеI launde.ing,

flatter with fahrics а "do

it smarter" idea

The Iighl Г Ьгi. сап "m llc" IhF яа|трпi, Дпd it's more fun to work with а fabric you know is ri8ht . , , Tight fol, the gaтment sl) iп. гigh' Гоr чоur flgJг. and рргiопа]it]'. So it'S wofthwhile to ýpend а little time in stores' fаЬгiс depaтtments, getting ncquainted with the man},typeS and decidillg hоw th€sе fаЬгiсý will treat Uor. Оп these two pageý Some of the most popular fablic gloups jntтoducc themse],es, of соuтs€. not oll valieties of rl,eaves апd $,eights arc h€те - just enough to give ап idea of what's uýed jn today'ý fashions.

ptbsB

5


kпоw уочr figure & pattern ýре а '*d0 it BasiBr" idea Do уоч know what ffgurе type you ате and what simplicity pattern type iý mqф fo" уоuг ffgчrе? If уоч do, and iJ you uýe the patteTns made foт that figure type, you'lt ffnd dreesmaking eaýiel beeauýe tneTe will Ье teýý ffttinдi to do. MoSt fi8uTeý fatlintoone of the 8 ffguTe typeý itlustTated, and,Simplicity makeý patteTný toffteach oJ them. Read the descгiptioný of the 8 typeý snd sее which one sеепs to Ье rпозt like уош оwп. Cortio ,1 The names of theýe 8 ffgurc trueý аrе not deвcriptiveo{ оg€. The typ€s аrе basedon height, body pIoportions anal the contouTs of tbe ffguтe. Thuý, someteen-agerý, foт e*mple, willffnd thata Ealf-Size pattern fftý them best; and thеIе аrc adults whose mеаsчгеmепts and ffgчте рrороftiопi ате beýt fftted Ьу а SчЬ-ТЬеп type patteгn. descriptions 0l the

8

figu.o trpes

arý ),с е

| -l \ ) (

\; } €

fiiýý-w0mап In liz€ 14.5bout 5'6" tall Nithъасk

tcen

Iп size 14, about 5'9" фll witb bвck

chUbhi. In sire l,tъс. яьоцt 5'tall with bek

Miss,woDa! pstte.m are designed fоr а Пguте thatis tsllerthвn апу oi th€ other ngurc type8 and well-

Teen рдtt.rпý аr€ deзigned for а ffяllе the s!ьеЪ.ight.s th€ llalfsйё but опе not п€sгlу as dеi,еlорёd. It hos а iftап }utdебпiф ъп5t, рlдссd higb,ana giчёз ihe impтession of уоutifu l со n tоцтз.

а СЬпЬЪi. patteт.. .re dбigned 'ог ffgule tbe Baneheightas tЬ€ Gi.], bnt rоч.dёi, Ве.аus€ of thiý body Tolndncss, the back v,ict]ength is lопgеr l,hдп the Girl's,ewen thоаgЬ the oYerall heigЪt is tЪе з9пе.

рrоро.tiопёd througbo!t. This fi gчте givos tЪе inlтessioп оfЬёiпg fully deve]oDed in all body 9re$Bn.t night Ъ€ consjdered tЪе "svёIзЕе" iшпiOr Size 1з, аьоцt б'5" toll with Ьдсlr

Il

patter.ý ore dеSigпеа lоI ! 'u,ior liguTe slight]y ýЪоrtеrthап thе MiýB-

woman, Ъчt yell-deve]op€d. Тh€ ffrй buýt iý highёI, and Ъесаше.f this the wдistlinc ]ооks поr€ defined, This type gives tbe im!теЁ8iоп of being ап 9ч€rаае бgnrc with

ta|f€iuC

зi* 1aЪ.rЬочtбЗ"Ьll*itЬ ь..t *.i,t ЬпЁЬ r5*'_ In

tf.ll-ýiE ,.ца

е l.. .

,.Д+ira.a.kr laiъ !aЬ

Е.Ё.ЬtL

dr

ýUb-t.en Iп size 1!ý, дьочt 5'1 14" tsll with Ьас]. wsist length 14%". Sub_Teen раtЬrпS sre dФigned fог а fiяurc ýЪоrЬr thln thе Teen, witi leвý .оtiсёдЬ]е buýt а.d а wвistlin€ lofeli in рrороrtiо. to tЬеЬцýt, В..6uýе th€ wsiýtlin€ i3]зrgеl iп pтoportion. thiE liglra mау look iап.wъlt зьогt-wаisфd, iшnio. pctite tп si,e 11jp, about 5'1"Ыl with back wдiзt l€.ctb 15". JчпiФP.tit p.|t ra. !Е

'ot. й.фU nrBE. по ni.t бll., i. ,,tl.rta_ i. t- цa ,bo!L

ria.lb.akrrr_t aa _--..tI'f,E

rts_Bj+L]a r+i--.t--

girl Tn size 1,!. дьочt

5'tа'lФithъасk

Girl patteтný дrе dеsigпеd fo. th.

smalleýt of tЪe 8type9. Тhiз lignTe cives ап inpression of iпhаtцre Яаtпевs, and in itý smdiег siz.. it п.€ds no чпd.rаrп da.t бttiBg i. щ itý раttегпs, ЬfсtrSiл.й'

D.dеrагп dлrв

о.се.


When you have decided what ffguге type you аIе, and then use pattefns made foт that figuге type, уоч will find dleýsmaking eaýieT because thеге will ье lеýs fitting to do. Shown on thiý page аге ýоmе of the difielences between чагiочS раttеIп types. Bodiee fтont patternв, all in size 14 or the ýize equivalent to the 14 (sчсh as JunioT size 1з), аге compared with each otheT,

gir' ýize 14.ýчh-toеп siie 14s. Becauseof the GiTl's

miýs ýize 14.juniot size 13. Тhете iý а 1" ditrerence

in height between these two ffgurеS, and this iý feflectэd in tl,e ditreтence futhe |foпt 1,Ooist lеп!]th. Note also the ýliaht

lesseT buýt

outstanding ditrercnceý in thеsе

7.|,

ditrerencesin: shouldeT len8th

frontwidth andlength

L

daTt in Giгl'sраttегп, as this ffgurc haý little need foT

frопt width.

daft-fittinя in this arca.

miss sire 14. hilf.ýircl472. The Hatf-Size ls а ShorteI

lirlsize

fTontlength fmnt width

diffеrепсеs between:

14Ис. Though these two ligптеý

{гontlength Iтont width

lепяth oJ waiýtline dart And note ditreIence in shou]der leneth and Slol)e.

г.

siz0l4s. А height ditrегепсе of 11/2" between these two figчIеS ýhows in the |ront leng th. other

neckline and аlпйоlе size,

tееп size 14.sчh{Oсп

]}j

r=: '

differeneeý арреаI in:

\

t

I

l

/

iuniorpctitesiz.11 ip. juпiorsiier3. Тhочgh both ffgules have the ý,old "Junior" in thеiг nameq the ff8чгеs аге dissimilar. (Read descгiptions on the oppoýite page.) The

t:

{

shoulder length widthof чпdеIаIm dart iепgth of waistline daTt .

hi

14. chnhhie sire

аге the ýаmе oveЕtl hei8ht, the гочпdпеss of the cbubbie figчIе

figuтe than the Miýý and has а 1" lalgeI buвt. This s},оws in these

/

figu]e & раttеrп types

-l

Jlontlength

shouldeг slant and width

ш

]

waistline dart width.


kпоw уочr pattern slze а "d0 it Ghварвr" idea Аý some hsve found to thёil Eolrow, it's ап ёхрёпsiче €хрёrimепt to tIу to uýe а patterп lhаtъ поr thе besi size rоr you. опсе thё faыi. is cut, you've сIоsýеd the serпing Rubicon. If the gaтment рIочеs too ýmall, you've waýted the {abric mопеу; if too lalge, you've spent va]uable time and епегgу on а job that must Ье done ovel. Il'S а Бimрlр mаllег iU dccide what pattem ýize

еаýе allowance

All patt€ms contain

ýоmе "еаýе allowance"

in

addition to the exact measurcments of уочr body ýо уоч сап move comloltably in the finished gагmепt. This еаýе vaTies with the ýtyle of the gаrm"пl. Тл а Simple, basic fitted drFýý йth ýet_in ýleeveý, the ease iý аs followв: In GirI and Junior Petite patteтný, aboul 3"; iл Suь-ъ€п and ъеп, about 3Уа"; in Miýý-woman, Juпiог апd СhuЬЬiё pattems, about з%"i in Hatf-Size, about 4%".

lust

Pattems sbould ье purchased Ьу Body MeaýuTements not Ьу read!-lo-шcar .ize оr Ьу аgе. Ъkе упUг 1 Body Measurcmcnts w}ile wеагiпс

а Simple. wel1-6tling dresý With ýet jn ýleev.s. and а pToper foundation gaIment.

баsа

шaist ease hip 0ase

-

- дЬоut

- About

%" iп a]t types.

2" in all typeý.

Ьасk waist lопgth eas.

- About

maternity pattelп sizes Buy the ýаmе ýiz€ in а

Уа" iп all typeв.

matemity pattern

аý

уоu поImаllу buy. Тhе needed extra ýрасе has alгeady been deýigned into the pattem.

е

back

,i

hUst

back

21, hreaýt

bleaýt

neck base

neck base

2ч,

to hеm

to hеm

19,

16,

шaist

child ýit. 2

toddl.t ýitc 2 tOddlers' vs, childreп's patteIns

blst

over the fulleвt part, ýnugly but not tight, waist _ АIоuпd the паturаt waistliпe, соmfогtаЬlу. hip At 7" below the waist. Ьасk yJaiýt length - Frоm the pтomiп€nt bone at the hасk base of the ne;k to the waistline. .heck these mез_{чrеmепt_ý {,ith thоs€ iп th€ \lea"urement chrri oD lhе oppoiite paae.ll rou. m€а_r,.lrеmепLý

То deterпine }-оur beýt siz€.

(t r-

'-,ь

Qr.*J

aiF** ,

ЁЁ

than iп chiidгen'S patterný,

Неrе ls а Соmрзrisоп of Dress kп8lhз frоm tsасk \фk Ва_ý€ ro иq,еr Еdяе

ф,

!!q.,

'r.rr!.r.a * ri.<lr, !ч€ .i*Э ti * 'аФ;ftф.с:t

ToddieT patterns аIе designed fог а liguTe between thal оt а ЬаЬу and а ch:ld. Thc Тоddlег ficure i, talteT than а ЬаЬу but Shогtег than а Child. Simplicity TbddleT pattelns have thе ýаmе Ьгеаst and waist mёаSuтеmепts aS children's р&ttегпS iп the Sаmе sizei but тоddlег раttегпý ате аЬочt 3"shortel in the sаmё size. тhе bodice iý about 1" ShoTteI and the ýhotrldeгý about rэ', паrrоýе.

r+

*

at

l

l5-

lr

tirr

2

16-

|q,

drt

з

|7"

sira 4 18"

2|"


mеаsчrеmепt сhаЁ fоr simplicity раttеrпs Select youT corтeet pдttem size Ьу the Body Measurements оп thiý сhаrt. Buy Ыочве, dTeýs, suit, jacket and coat patteтný Ьу bust mеаýчтеmепt. Buy sИ}t, ýhoтts and slacks patteтný Ьу wsiýt mеаsчrе, lr?rraýý youT hips arc largeт thал the hip meaвulement соrтеsропdiпg to уочr waiýt measuтement as given оD the chaTt, In such саsе, buy Ьу hip mеаsulеmепt. girlý

сhцЬЬiеý

3ъс

В0 i114 аз 93 з,tи 36

2zb 2s 2\ 25 zб iab, 27 23 з0 391! }5 l!!. sbould€r lёпеа.,,

1s9ld

12?r 13% l{%

15],16

а 4-v. аЪ а& , ,,,, ,, }Ъ 1rrG rI% 12х 1r% l3ф

11 rrъ \21/1 |zъ r0lr,lojt 11Ч 1r% 12% 12( 19Ъ l3 r3Ъ 1,! totlnб

iuпior pctitcs

ajp бjD ljD

16

iDз.

im. iл&

13jp

iпз-

16& ins.

Вsсk wsЪt bnвth,,..,.,.,

13Ъ 19а

зhodder le8th__-, , aia {ъ Back wldtb,,,,,,,,,.,,,.,,.,,., 12 ъ l2{ Fгопt widй,.,,,,,,.,,., ,,,,,. l r,( 12* ýleeve lenaй.,.-,.,-_-. 21ъ 211'

ýlФYеяidtь,,,,-_..--- 11'п

Nё.k,,,,,,.,,,.,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.

,,,,,,,,,,, , r0 u Е sй,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, , ,,30 u, ,Е вБt, ,, ЕЕ wn* 'Е яь,,,..,..,..,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,..,,..,.зz и Е эsсk v.ill

le,Etb,.,,,,,,.

1а{

F.опtwяftt lецiЬ,,,.,,,,lr116

i BKl( width, ,,,,,,,,,, :Ё г-"t-ratb

l

,,

л1lo

,lal

,, 0

rL

16t11o

11* 33 ýrrъt,_,,.,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,-,231ь 24' 26|2 Hie,,,,,,,,,.,,,.,,..,... ..,,.,,.,,,, з,'l. ззи х5 B".k *"t"i

{]:чб

1зY

ъ""ф=-_

151.1

пissos atd uоmеп

Fniors

Bust,.,,,,,,.,,..,,.,,,.,,..,,.,,..,,3ot/!

ъ'

35

зr зб

21

з7

ца

20ь 22ъ 2|ц

1!ъ ]q]]4 1э !!! гюпt Tajst ]епstй__. 16q( 17q{0 1?% 13rid 13ъ 11ъ |.* 114 1|s 5 вдсkйdй-_-_-,_ 13% 14У! 149{ lбl! rr9{ i.on width,,,,.,,-,,,,,,,.,,, r3% 13* 1116 1,!1{ 1616 ýьчёl€паБ.,,.-,,,.,,..,,.., 22у{ 22уа 21 2с% zзъ вIфчё widtъ.,,.,.,,.,..,..,.,. 139( 14и 1.1!l 1114 169{ 1r* 11s4 16{ 16{ 16t

NKk,-,,,.,.-.,...,..,,..,,.,,,,,,.,.13{ 13l(

,,,,,,,

13*

Btck wsl.t ъ!gth.,,.,,.,, 16у{

sь*" b*rb,,,,,,,,,,,,,, zz *ъ sьк яidй,,,,, ,,,, l1{ Ir,4

Е ы*,,,,,,,,

э: яi Ё

,,

121

11%

half-sires |2lь 1l1ъ 161ь 1в\ь

teens

Ё

in,

im,

9! ЁЕ

3?16

in&

9j! 11j!

111P 14qa

з,!14 im,

i!s,

31 ýlъ 12 3r]4 33 ззъ 14 1!!a

10]6с 12*с t,!цс

васt!qц! l€цФ!-!-_!!а

Fюпt mfut lenr.!,_, 16я sbodlder lёщtь,,,,,.,,,,.,. .1ио Beck

Tidtb_:..-..-'._

1з%

sreeve lещiЬ.,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,- 1214

ýtе*ё,iпrь.,,.,.,,,,.,-,,,,,. 1214

Ьоуý

псп wn!r.,,,,.,.,,.,-.,.,,.,..,,.,,,., 23 N€сk ъаrc зiпh.,,,,,.,,,-,, r9и ýhjt3]еечё lensй..,..,.. 3}

цц

!6у,

3314

.1

in.,

L?д ll1r 11]* r?]{. ib lofu 19ra 20tб ins. 6?10 бъ Бч0 6q! 61riс lD.. 16 r0* 1? 17]4 13 in.. 15']' 1r% 169( 16% 1?ъ i, 24ъ 2|ць 2|ч{ 2а4!А26* i*, 131Чс 1016

1,1rl 16]4 16Ъ 1614

1?1,a

j!.,


hоw to чве а pattern То get фе moвt out ot уочr раtфm, you ýhould do mоrе фап simрlу lsy the pieceв on fabTlc дnd cut them оцt тhеfе is чдlч9ьl€ informstion оп the envelope, еасЬ patteln pieee алd iD special DеrЬ of tne Ртimеr (iдýtтuction shееN) thst will help you. Fi'ýt Look at tha Er.aelope Back. It тЫIs Yоч:

llow

MUGH tлOпlс

т0 BUY

matk thc vieU уоч alc uýiпg.

nark уOчr sizc. mаrk the r.ldth ol

tt. fаtгiс

draw а liпе .сrоsý ftоm

й.

уOц

iltend t0 Ьцr.

labric $dth ind iOшп

wiеra the t90 liп.s пЕеt, уOч'll find

iie

fi.п

уOчг ýiza.

апошпt о'

nrCdCd.

'аЬriс

0]a

^0vlcE

sрЕсlдt FАвпсs

Misses' one"Piece Drоgs. Extlа fabri qUП!d

l1tDl..t

бб,'ФilhоUt

пrD

3lt

viat

3yl

2$

ll ot 45ll

t{ýsEy oХtРlЕСЕ 0ПЕýs! Dr.ýs ferhres low pl€ssвd ol чп, pra$ed invalted plesls, left ýlde lipp€l cloýing and sell 0r purchlsod b.lt. v. l sпd 2 hrvc slightly |owerod r€cklineý, 8athefý аlваЫliпо of ьodice,nd back песk lippel v.1 haý зhоrt sе!-iл s1.6чеs, and iop.stitching detail. v, 2 зпd З alб

зУ.

зщ

Yds,

эцп

2rl

2

Dlaaз з5" ol з6" wilhoul

" ,'

3yl

" ЗУq l

2ц" з%

led песkliп€. v. 2 ýaýh is pulchas.d. .пd ы.id.. Llп.в,

!3h.пtчI., lulat, cr.p.,.]lt llп.п, lllk Фl cl.n.l сh.lllз.

ч.r.п. woolt .пlt bl.id.l зh.., ФоЬi

шidth 0l lou.r idm 0f

vl.r

ф.

I, 2, з

86 8з

'' ЗУl " з1^ " 2у1 "

90 92 94

optiomD- У. yard 0' З2", З5'оr З6"

lns.

wоv€п

Dr.lt vl.{ l. I .пd з| тhо.d, ыr. 3.rm hlidlig (opi,), b.lt (opt,), i]'lo..d ghould.r p.d. (opt,), 5" п.сt typo nop.l, 14" dl..3 tyro 'lpp.l, 5, ..cl ty!. llpp.r. v1.1 2 .nd з| 16' п.сk tyr. zlpDer,

тнЕ FАвRlс TYPES sUlTABtE FOR тнЕ sTYtE поt all tyleý 0f

tt..пvC|op€

uill mаt.

чр trcll iп .very style.

'аЬriс most sUitablC onCs. liststh.

тнЕ sEwltlG il()Tll)Ns Y()U

1,1EE0

Ьц' уOч. pattнr ara fairic.

t0 saYe lime, hч,lЬaп rnan

'0ц


9 lо

yhere to malah dot at slёеfе top

Nexl Chech the pattern pieceB

In addition to conýtтLtction symbolý, all of which are explained оп page 12, certain inýtructions ате pтinted оп the pattem piecФ to belp you ss you

IJSE

t l

whele to ease

,li l.i

уhеrе to cli! fabric

{Ii

dUriпg сOпýtlцсtiOп

ili

ý

З""'11,&1"5_:"9.

]lj

-.-б*

|g,Б,ii|iн*r

width 0l sеап аlloYапсе hOY,

t0 mаkб а dalt

Апа: Check Yоu,r

Рфшаr

YouI Ртimег, of соuтsе, giveý detailed instructioný Jor making уочI garment; but it also ýhowý: HI)w

т0 IAY тнЕ рАттЕfft{ 0t{ тнЕ яАвлlс t()fl cuпltlG

5elect the Iight culting diagraп for yOUl .hоsеп ýtyl., уO!г sizc, the width of yonr fabric, апd for faмic with 0r withoцt пар. (see page З0

details оп hалdliпg па!реd lаЬriсз.)

:iфэ?рJlmаJ

'ot foa identifi catioп. mirk the diagram

ll0vJ т8 рRЕрАпt

l

I0l

i

cUTTltl8

]

r

€.a/,aeprime? (,н,

,!]]k

i

Ф

l

Efi, L!чl

5i*?P.i.nar з.,L_]l-.-,

J|,x,].jRil i=1]+]

lLJHitrBl

нOw т0 мАRк

i-.lb !,r

ш

л PлllBEN


toN].of.ý!eeve

i

malk l

pattern сOпstrчсtiоп symbols Shown hеrе are the moýt_us€d Symbols апd instгuctions found оп Simplicity pattem pieces foI guidnlg уоur cutting and Serving. Sometimeý other patteTn pieces mау have additional, less_uSed ýymbolý. ccllal

dOt t0

dOts tor adjUsiing ýls9че ease

mltch l

tз ýhзх!dзr aеаfi

afti,wý,hOw tuiling atlп ýiitching directiOn

-..+cutling

l;пе iýýlid ouiýide line)

А dot f0I adjц9lifig ýlзече ease

lооlФ

lloм !,lbide fiilфп

nOtches nufih!Ied ;,1t

in ýеq|елее 0f

паiсhiпg

j

sеаm line {hr0'(Еп inýide liпе)

"ll

;flaillt gIa]i.!f.lablic

]ifi е

.r,

+

aiterali9n iiie5

1..

1 iх tll1e5

п",сkliпя dart

i

iO]i]

l ýi -

вlо{БЕ aАск


check уочr pattern mеаsчrеmвпts Whел you ha\P boughl уоuг раllfгп :n lhe

ýize neaтest youт body mеаsurеmепts, it iS advisahle to check ceItain о{ its measulemeпts withyourown to see if the pattem mау need Боmе зlight altelation befole you cut. You have аlгеаdу measured},ouт bust, waist, hips and back waist tength; wгitе theýe measulements оп the chaTt below, and flom the back of youl patteln envelope 0rfгоm the meaýulemeпt table on раgе 9, fitl in the coпeSponding pattem mеаýuгеmепts. In addition, you Shouldtake the following

shoц!der Iепgth (песktо аImhOlе)

sleeve lепgth, ýhOUlder tб е|hOw

sleeve leпgth, t0 wlirt

селtеr frOnt skilt jengtfi and the center hасk skitt length

Wlite these on the chaтt. Then, if you know you have celtain figule ртоыеms, take the

mеаSurеm€пts оfth€ ргоЬlеm аrеа. Space haý ьееп ieJt at the bottom of the сhаIt{оr wгitinE in any of these, уош Dersonal neasureDent chart

9I..,.. зъоu]пеr to eIbov

- uýn h

рвsчгртапlв ог parrAl

п

"л\"lор. or on, haIt рае" 9.

То take the sаmе mёаsuгеmепts on уоuг patteгn, fiTst lay-in any darts, plёats ог gatheN очеI which you will Ье measuling, Then meaýuTe flom seam tine to зeamtine (except оп the loпgsleeveas ýhоwп in the diaglam). Measuтe the lro2' shouldel. Put thёsе measulements оп the chaTt. Now you can quicklysee whеthегуоu need to make апу basic alteIations in уоuI pattern. I{ you do, follow the Фattern alteгation foT уоuг paTticular adjustment, found оп the pages


pattern adjustments соmmеrсiаl patteTns аге matle accofding to celtain StaпdaTds of Ьоdу measurements set up Ьу the меяsптеmепt Standard committee оJ the entiIe pattern industly. But thеIе ате allvayý sоmе ffguIes that do not сопfоrm to these mеаsuтёm€пts in everт detail. It will save trу-оп and fitting time if any hесеssаIу

adjustmentsallemadeinthepatteTnbefoleitiSplacedonthefabIicforcutting.дndsomeadjustmentý' such as enlalging от tengthening, cannot Ье made afteI the fablic iý cut. If you have compaIed youl

measufements \пith the patteтn measuTements aS explained оп раgе13,уоu know whetheT your pattern пееds you пееd. adjustment. If it does, {oltow the diтectioný eiiven on thiв апd ýucc€eding pages fol the adjustments сдUтIоN: In alteTing а patteтn, ье surе all gIainlines ате eithel kept ýtlaight оI аrc stтaightened а{tеI a.lteTing.

lепgthепiпg & shortening TheseaгethetwomostgeneIa]lyneededadjustmentýandtheeasiesttomake.onmostSimplicitypatteTns

]rouwillfindplintedlengthening.ýhorteninglinesshowingvheтetomakethealterationibutfr{bkiItsand veTy Sholt sleeves wilt поt hаче thеsе апd the atteвtio_n фоrlld

!j

!цаdе,lЦ!е_!9!19Т.

lепgthепiпg: general instructiOns t

cut patteln араrt on lengthening iine.

Ptace papel undeI the two pieceв. ,з Spread Dattcтn to wanted length.

t, {

Keeping glainlines Stlaight, pin ог Scotch-tape to the рарег. comptete оц the рарег the cutting line and апу dalt lines. specia| inýttuctioIs aоrg saе€?аý. The patteтn

will have

two altelation lines - one above and one below the etbow. The meaýuтements of уоuI ,Tm. as tisted оп the chaтt on Dаgе 13, will ýbow уоч whetheт the lengthening is пееdеd above от beiow the elbow, от both. srосйý олd sno/rý. то lengthen сгоtсh, счt lrдllеrп аЬо!t c.oich, То |рпglhрп lpg оt sholts, add at loweт edge; oJ ýIach, lепяthеп оп leg alteration line.

tO lcngthon bodice hacfi only

When adjustment iý needed оfllу iп back, pтoceed aS fottows : l Cut раttеrп оп alieIation liп€ ftоm _tдsidp sрап liпе опl!, 2 Р lас;йЁът-uпаът neatb. Sрrеаd patteTn amount пееdеd at сепtеr and fasten to рарег. 3 Draw пеv eirain-peTfect centeT line 14 to D in diagram), 4 Drai( ne$,.utting line at side ý€аm с to d in diаgrаm !f:}"!B аR *ais1llne dart.-, :trаisьtеп tbem, J. ,] , r;, :ir \.i.fr iraБ| :iol п..11r лrlr.r r; .k '5 i:. ь::, : ' . ..lа.8:i8 a6

* ЦЁ .* ,*gt :з

\


I

l I

l l l

I

]

I

]

siOrteпiпgl gепеIаl inýtгцctiOIý

Measuтe up fгоm the shortening tine the amount to Ье Sholtenёd. Dгаw а line асIоsý patteгn. (Diagiram о.) Eo]d раltеrп оп sЪогtрп;пg ljnp | Ьгiпg fold up to th€ drаwп line and fasten. (Diagмm 6.) DIаw пеw cuttin8 line as Shown Ьу dotted iineý in Diagram Ь. s!ecialiпstructiOпs slerreý should Ье ýhoTtened аЬоче оr 'ong betow the elbow, or hoth, as needed. sl.rcký a,d Sliolrs аге shоItёпеd аъоче crotch от at bottom of shоIts leg от оп altemtion tiпё of slacký.

t0 shorten bodice back

0Il,

At centel, mеаsuI€ up fгоm altelation ]ine the 1mount needed to ýhогtеD. Staгting at this point, draw а S]antiпg liпе to whele alteгation tine meetý side seam. cтease оп alteI*tion line and Ыing сгеаsе uр to drawn ljne, tapeTing to nothing DIаw а пеw 8Tain-perfect сепtет line and а new cutting tine at side seam. If thele ате waistline daтts, Straighten them,

15


adiusting darts

То RаiБе alL UlLd,efamL Daft This proceduT€ is exactly the reveTýe of lowering the dart. cut patt€Tn apart onlenфheninРj-Sholtening line. Place рарег uпdеrпеаth i ýpTead pattem pieces the needed amount and fasten to papel. Ве sule to keep

hоп t0 skaighten а dart

Whеп а pattefn has Ьееп lепФhепеd Ьу cutting and ýpleading, or shortened Ьу making а tuck, and the albTation раsýеs thTough а dart, part of the daтt will Ье thTorrn off the stгaight glain if thе patteтn iB ýpтead or tucked оп а sIMt, (See illuýtгations Jоr lenфhening and sholtening s bodice back оrrU.) Тhis daTt muýt Ье put back оп the ýtraight grain beforc йе pattem piece iý uвed. If it]ь.a straight darl.Lay а ruleт along the centeт fold tine. staтtiпg at the daTt point. DTaw this line ýtrai8iht to the bottom of the da"t. Тhеп do the same thingwith the slanted stitchinя lines. ( see dotted lines in bacl lengrhcning and зhоrtепjпg diagrsmB.r II it is acmDed dart.'lteat as а straight dalt, making thе cuNed slit hing liгсF sl raighl,

сепtеr fгont line зtlаiяht. Between dагt and аrmhоIе dTaw а line асгоsв patteгn. DIaw а s€сопd line at the sаmе distance Jrom the filst аý the pattem

Foid pattern оп one line; bling fold to ýe€ond line and fasten. (This restoтes oTiainal length of pдttem.) 4 StTaighten any cutting liпФ and dalts that need stIgightening,

shouIder alterations

tOchangettlc positioп 0f ап чпdеrаrm dart Ап unaleraTm ilart should point diтectly at the fullest part of the bust. If it does поt,

сAUTIoN: Ть mеаsulе shouldel length of а patteTn, always use the bodieeJcoлr-, ,rо' the back. But make the same amount of аltэfаtiоп ir both fюnt апd back.

Tsise от loweT it as folows:

ilI

--t ||

ll

/\

т l

То LoNoer бп Uпd,еrапп

l,

i

/l

Dart

cut pattern асrоýs bodice below armhote bui above da!t, Place рареI uпdеrпеаth.

Keeping сепtеI line straight, SpTead pattern amount necessaly to lower the dаIt, and to paper. M€asure up fтom alteIation 'aýten ]ine the same amount the patteTn was sргеаdl draý line дсrоSS раttегп. Fold раrtе!п оп аltеrаtiоп ]ine; Ьriпg fotd .<r" iФ dr.вх line апd fýrеп, Thiý ,rr'Ф фr,:эl kýirb of ра!tегп, Dra\ý б re ald jп,Е . t!d. Е*.*эra Ь.

Ё &r

в

Er riЁ. 'п=а!ъ. '.:.!ltle

!t€а

t0 mаkе shoulders паrrow€r 1

2

clip and slash patteln as fol wideвing. Lap slashed edges the needed amount.

Pin оr tape togetheI.

DTalv new Shouldel line as ýhоwп. I| Pattefл Наs Fofltal,d Shoull]ef Sеаm _q]ash the раttсгп aS foI ilidening (See page l?, and proteed aS fогýhоrtепiпg а

n.rmal rhoulde.]ine.


лIлsт IrrINcý лIлý"_

Plr.rt i

fш sшlаrё ýboulderý

t0 mаkе sh0шldЕrc у.idег

раttегп shouldeт line and aImhole ýhould ье Taised. 1 TTim оfi pattern mаIgiп Jrorn Shouldeг and аImhоlе. 2 Place patteгn оп рареI апd on it tгасе the following:

Juýt above агmhоIе notch, clip pattem to FTorn mid-point of ýhoulder sеаm, EIgýh to аImhоlе sеаm Iine slightly above the ctip. Place papel uпdег siash; spreaal раttегп needed amount at shoulalef,ý€am line. Гasten to рареI. DIаý, new shoulder cutting line аý ýhоýт Ьу dotted line.

а i

straisht centeт

]ine.

Shou]del Iine Keeping centeI line ýtraight, mоче pett€m up ýhouldcT liпе lhe amouni needed rо Iaise. pin in place. 4 Оп the рареr, trасе thе аImhоlе etlge. 5 Unpin pattern; loweT it to itý oriainal position. Гаstеп to the рареL DIawnew shouldeг line from ýhouldel point of tIaced аImhole, tapeIing to the ofiainal ýhоuldеI line at neck edge, cut fabric accoтding to new ýhоD]dёг

It Pattem Еаý Fопоаfd

Shоuld,вr seanL Оп Simplicity patterný the поrmаt ýhoulder

line will Ье indicated. Оп the patteln back, make а Btraight (peTpendicular) SIaýh JIоm the mid_point of the fогwатd ýhочidет line to the noTmal

ShочidеI Iine. Frоm the end of this slash, make а diagonal ý]aýh {tоm noEnal ýhouider line to just above аImhо]ё поtсh, аs waý done iп lengthening а потmаl sbouldel. Рlасе рареr under s]ash and рrосееd as fol lengthening а потmаI ýhoutder line. 4 Оп pattem front, alter as fоI поrmа] shouidel5 Dгаw in пеw cutting tine as ýhопт_

ýloping ýioOlders

1,2 з 4 5

'оr pattem shочIdег line and armhole ýhould The Ье loweTed. Гоllоw steps 1 and 2 foT ýqlrarc ýhoutdel. Keeping сепtег line ýtraight, drop pattem below traced ýhou]deT ijne the amount needed to lоwёт. Pin in place. Оп the paper, tгасе аrпйоlееdае and about2''oi the side seam DIаw new shoutder line Jгоm ýhoulder point of almhole to oтiaitlal ýhou]deт line at neck edge. Move pattem up to its oTiginat position and 1aýten n_eckline, cente? edge and toweT edge to t}e papel. When cutting fabTic, fo]l back ýhoutdel and almhote of pat_ tеrп and cut Ьу newýhouldeт and aTmhole tlaceal оп thе рар€т.

1f


TTERN ДDJUSТМЕNlS

waistIine alterations whеп а r aiýtline пе€ds to Ье made lатgеI (and it is not dtle to л lalge аЬdоmеп) оr Smaller, the alteTation muýt Ье made in both fтont and bafk, and in both bodice апd Skirt i{ the раtЬтп is foT а dтess. (If the аЬdоmеп iS large, See alt€Tation fог enlaTging, page 22.)

t0 mаkе waistliлe |аrgеr

Divide the amount to ье eпlalged Ьу the пчmЬет ol darts- (Each daтt should Ье made паIrоwет Ьу ап

t0 ýhorten sbouliel ofkimo!0 ýleeve

lf

you need to shorten the ýhouldel of а set-in ýleeve, уоч will ртоЬаЫу have to shогtеп the same amount in а kimoro ýleeve. The alt€Iation is made in both back sпd fTont of the bodice.

DecIeaýe the width of each dart Ьу dIawing а пеw the original stitchin8 iin€. stitching line '7l,rde decTease any dагt moTe than Уа". сAUTIoN: Do not Il stiu iLore uJaistLiпB 1L,idth is пееdеd, Tlace оп а рi€се of рареI the cutting tine of the pattem fюm wAiýt to ýide seam поtсh. Place tтacing under раttегп with side seam notch diIectly undel that of pattem. SpIead tтacing at waiýtline % the extтa anount пееdеd. Pin in position. compl€te the cutting line along waistline.

Оп the shouldeT seam line, mеаsulе fTom the necнine the соmсс' length of the ýhoutdel ýеаm for уочI set-in steeve. Fтоm thiB point dгаw а line to the waiýtline, ending at the side of the waiýtline dart. (If thеге iý по waistline dаrt, the line is drawn to the сепtег point of the waistline width.) StaTting at the top oJ thiý line, make а tuck in the patteTn the depth needed to shогtеп, tapering the tuck to nothing at The above method mаkеs the gаImепt just Slightly SrпalleI at the Ьчзt line.

Make the ýаmе shouldeI mеаýuгеmепt as in Method оГrоm thiý point dIаw а Slanting line to tbe cur!-e of the Dпdега.m. 3 Tuck оп lhis liпе а. in }lethod а, a l)rаБ .er clltiDa line from the top of the i*L tiidila l: !ýro Ёi ýlе€те счtýD8:

,a

to make waistline smaller Divide the amountto Ье taken in Ьу the number of daтts. (Еасh dагt Should Ье made wid€T Ьу ап equal amount.)

IncTease the width of еасh dalt Ьу

dЕwing

а п€w

Btitching line oursid€ the oтieiinal stitcbina line. cAUTloN i Do not iпсIеsýе any daTt mоге thart Уа". I| stiLl паfе dесfеаsiп!] is пееdеll 1,2 Fol]ow Steps 1 and 2 for епiагgiпg waist. з Дt waistline, Slide tlaced line iп towald the сепiеr the ехtrа amount of declease n€eded. a тгьсе lhts line ontn tnp раllегп рiе(€, msling а пеw cuttjna line-

1


чрреr hасk alterations

т I

for thc "dowag0r's hчmр"

lor гочпd shoulders The раtt€тп needs both added width and added

length. Determine the пе€dеd length Ьу compaling уоuг own back waiвt measurcment with thnt of the раttегп аý given оп the bnck of the envelope. The dilTercnce is the amount of lengthening needed. то ffnd the needed extra width, tlýe fоr mеаsчгiпg а dress with set_in ýleev€s which has Ьееп comfortably fitted to you, Measuтe the back width fтom aтmhole to аrmhоlе аьоut 4" below the поrmаl neckline, Then measule the patteln in the ýаmе location fгоm seam line to centeT back; dоuые this neasurement. Тhе ditrercnce between the doub]ed patteln mеаsчIеmепt and уочг own measuTement is the ехtга width needed. At about 4" below п€сНiпё, ýlash pattern

Тhе patten needs added length at uррег centeT of back. ТЬ detelminё hоw much. see alteгation for Round shouideTs. About 2" betow neckline, slash раttегп flom center back to armhole ýеаm line. Place paper uпderateath and fasten to it the patteTn back bеtow the ýlash. Sргеаd uppeт part of раttегп thе needed amount; Jasten to the рареI. DIaw а пеw, ýtraight centel back line Jrom the slash То rctain oli8inal neck ýize, maIk а daтt Jrom песНiпе to just аЬоче the slash, taking in at neckline the same amolnt added to centeт back line-

back {rоm center to armhole sеаm ]ine Slash velticatly llom centeт ol shouldel line

Place рарет чпdеr раttеrп. Sераrаtе cent€f back sections at cross\rise slash the пеёdеd amount i fasten to рар€f. Below the eTosswise slash, sepaTate Iemajningpieces У, ihe amount needed to widen;fasten to рарет. Spread Shоuldег piece, tарегiпg cтosswise slаsh to aranhole. Dгаw in пеw shoulder line ýtarting at neck edge of cutting ]ine апd dгаwjпg to ýhouldeт еdgс of cutting line,

(Bloken line in diagIan,)

Make back Shouldel line Same width as {Iont Shoulder Ьу takinc two smal] daIts, aS Shown, ТЬ I€tаiп огigiпаl waistline width, incleaýe width of dart. If theтe is no dart, ease_in the extla width.

tor the €хtrа

shaight back

То ргечепt the wгiпklеý caused Ьу the very ýtгаight back, the uppeT back of the patteTn пееds to Ье ýhогtепеd. То deteImine how much, соmрате youT own baek waiýt

iength with that of the patteгn, as given оп th€ back of the епчёlор€. Тhе dif€rence between them iý the amount of shoIt€ning пееdеd. Pin а hогizопtаl tuck just below the песНiпё ýeam, taking up at the centel the amount пе€dеd to shoften, and tарегiпg to nothing at thё аimhоlё seam line. (If pattern does not tiё flat wЬеп tuek iБ mаdё, clip Jrоm cutting iine to sеаm ljne at aTmhote edges аý shown at о in diagTam.) DIaw а пеw ýtIаiяЬt сепЬт back liпе,

19


РЛТIЕRN ЛDJUSТМЕNТS

lower hack alterations

for а swayhack

То ргечепt the wlinkleý in the centeт back, caused Ьу swауЪасk, the pattern needs to ье shоrt€пеd at the centel back. The best wау to deteImine the amount needed iý to mеаsurе on а dTeýý от skiTt which still has these r0linktes, Have Sоmеопе

рiп-iп'а tuck Buficient to rcmove then. Pin а holizontal tuck, taking up at the centel back the аmоuпt needed to Temove the wriпklеý, ?rnd tapeтing tonothing at Side Seam. ctip pattern thmugh cuttinд: line at Side seam ýо it lies flat. Draw new stтaight сепtеr back line and Straighten the daгtg. (FоI stгaightening dal^ts, Sее раgе 16.)

iI

to make hipý оr thighs larger

M.rno.' d. At hip]ine of {Iопt and back Side Seams of Skilt patteтn, add Уа the amount needed to entalge. Drаw new cutting line tдрегiпg to поthiпg at waistline, but of е!еп lvidth flоm hipline to loý€r edge, .tl.i/ird l). This method makes the skirt i litl]t fпll€r thrn ]Iethod а, : :t,. гJ", г. lt:,g:ns]-

7 | .,- ;а1-- ,

ю

to enlalge through the buttocks

То deteпTine horv much you пееd to enlafge, liтst pin tояеthеr the flont and back of l,our skiгt pattem. х{еаýuIе the hipline of рiппеd plttern frоm сепtег flont tocenter back, Nolv tako уоur оwп mеаsurеmепt in the sаmе tocation (:tbout 7" betow the Фsist) fгоm centel flont io certer back, Iп а Simplicity pattern fоr а basic stlaight Skirt, theTe iS 2" of ease

allowed in the hipline, Thelefol.e, thele 1oould Ье 1" еаý€ allowed iп the half you have mеаýuгеd. yочI оwп meaýtlement should Ье the measulement of the pattem minus this 1". Thus, if i.our mеаSulеm€пt iý the sаmе as that of the pattem, you would need to add 1"; iJ it iý 1" mоте than the pattern, yoti should епlдтg€ 2"; and sо on. Еп]агее the patteln aS follows: cut the Skiгt baek pattein apart thlough centel of waistline dalt to to\,!,er edge. (If thete аIе two dafts, woTk with either one.) 2 At hipline, slash frоmсепtеI backto Sides?oл з Placc рареr undeT the patteln, Keeping сепtеr baek lin€ stтaight, spread the hipline slash at centel back line the amount needed to enlarge. Кеер uрреI and lоwеr sections of the pattern the same distanee apaTt fюm centel back to the lengthwiýe Slash. Whеrе hipline and veltical slashes meet, sрIеаd the vertical ýlash the same amount you splead the hip]ine slash at the с€пtеI back. кеер this distance even ali the way to NoW taper the hiptine ýlash from the vefti.a] slash to the side sедm. and factPn the spтead pjeces to the рар€I. Sin.e the ý,aist]ine lvi]] hale Spread, it iS !].(еjSilг}, to геgаiп the originat 1,aiStline .a.a]lrr!Ben1, This is done Ь! taking up :.. :]ll:ift,]ri1 iл the dаrt оI daTts.

lir..


neckline alterations

to паkо а песlliпе ýmallol If а песИiпе пееdý to Ье mаdе

for опa large hip

А very соmmоп бgurе рrоЬ]еm is that of опе hiр lагgеr than the оthег. ThiS едusеs а skir' lU hikP Jp Uп lhnl ,jd*; оr, il lhc hAm ]ine is measuled flom the flool to even оfг the skiтt edge, the fаьIiс wi]l Tun оff gгаiп on that side. IJ the diffеIепее between the two hips is mоIе than 1", both fIont and back of the ýkiTt patten should Ье a]tered. СЬ€сk the difelence ьу fiýt tying а tape оr ýtling аrcuпd your waistline and then having sorneone пеаsulе fIоiп the waistline to the floor очеI each hip. If the difierence is less than 1", the adjustment can Ье done in litting. Simply letease the seam оп the lацет hip ýidF and lдрFr ir tо ihF waistlinc so the hemline is the same distance frоm the ffоог

considerably ýma]iel, tly taking s Уr" seam instead oJ th€ поrmаl %" sеаm on the neckline. But if it needs to Ье made опlу а little sma]leт, ploceed aS follow8 : At center 1ront and centel back песнiпе, mеаsuге in Jrоm cutting line а veIy srвll amount actually less than 1/16". Fтоm this point dйw а line to the waistliпe, tapefing to поthiпg at the bottom. The balance oJ the amount needed to make it ýmallel is taken fтom the Shoulde! ýeam. Divide this Ьаlапсе Ьу 4 (iherc arc 4 ýееm liпes). Measure doй} frcm вhоr dёг tine on the neckline sеаm line this amount. Frоm this point, dгаw а new shouldeI line to the aтmhoie end of the Shouldel. If песkliпе has а facing, alteT the facing the same amount and in the same tocation.

оп both sides. IJ the dilTelence is очеr 1", alteI the patteTn То fгопt and back patteIn pieces , fasten рареr ýо it extends above the waistline and

beyond the side seam. At the ýide Seam, mark up fюm the waisttine the diffefence betwe€n уош two

Staтting at thiв point, draw а пеw cutting Iinc, tapeTing to lhe oal,t пеагеr lhe сепlрr. At the waistline. measule out frоm the side веаm У2 the amount added above the waist_ line. Dlaw а new cutting tine llom the uрреr edsie, tapeTing to nothing about 3" below the Ыр line. Use the alteied patteTn to cut the {аЬriс. тhеп оп the ýide that needed по altefation, tlim away the ехсеýв Jabric above the waistline and along the side Seam, following the original cutting liп€ý of tbe Datteтn.

t0 inake а neckline larger

Atl of the addition shoutd

Ье mаdе at the

ShouldeI ýеаmý, adding Уа the amount needed to both flont and back shouldeIs. тhеп dlаw апеwsьочldеrl;пе fгоmпесk to атmhоiе. Also enlaTge facing if theTe iS опе.

the.ollar u an altefed neckline hаз д collaI. the cotlaT must alýo Ье nade laцeT от smаllеI. Add on от take ofi at centeт front and centel back yr the amount needed. t0 alter

21

5


лIяs? ?irlNcs ,.IEý" P,l?"rR]v дr.rusтмЁN?s

hust & аьdоmеп alterations

:_.i,lljli_-

point. Keeping the same distance from сеп'еr rrопt, dгiw я ncw dar| сепlFг ]inc fTom point to waistline. Ь .A.t wэistline, meaýLlTe width ot oliginal daTt fTorn с€пtеr line to ýtitching liп€S; then meaýure the same distance each sid€ of new daTt сепtег line, MaIk. с Dгаw slanting Stitchin8 lines ffоm daIt point maTký at waistline. StIaighten gfainline of skirt as follows: а Measure digtanle frоm bottom of glainline alrow to сепtеf front. Ь Keeping Same diýtance all the way to the skiгt top, dгаw д new grainline,

to епlаlgе at the аЬdOmеп

l

The front о{ both bodice and skiIt patterns need to Ье enlaтged uр-апd-dо,Ф and acтoss, ТЬ determine how mчсh enlargement iý neealed, mеаýuге уоuI оwп fTont waistline fгоп underrlm to undeIalm; divide thiS mеаsuIеmепt Ьу 2. Тhеп, on eithef bodice оr skirt раtt€m, pin-in апу rraistline daтts and mеаýuге lhе maiýlline сrоm ýidё зеаm line to сепtеI flont line, тhе difielence between the patt€rn mеаsurеmепt and the hal{ of уош own mеаslrгеm€пt iS the amount you need to splead the pattem at the waistline Sеаm liп€. So proceed as followý: on the .kiгI Гrолt, belos the dart point bu( above the side sеаm }lotcb, Slash асIоss pattem from center flопt a.lmoýt to side seam line. Slash fтom rл,aistline almost to lowef edge Ь€twееп waistline dalt and сепtеt fтont. оп bodice flont, at about 3" above waiýtline, stash fюm center almost to side sеаm. Аlзо. hetween waistline daтt and centel JTont, slash fTom waiSt]ine almoStto ShoLdder seam. Place рарег uпdеI the раttегп pieces. Кеер сепtег front lines stlaight апd sрrеаd the patteTn pieces on the veftical slash ot t|Le йaistliпP, l]nе лeeded amount. This will automatically cause the patteтn to Sprcad the coirect amount whеIе the horizontat and veгtical slashes meet. 'lЪрёг the vertical slash оп the Skilt to the lоwег edge and оп the bodice to the shouldeT. Taper hotizontal slashes fIоm the veltical Slash to the Side sеаms. Кеер геmаiпdеr of the hofizontal slashes the same x,idth f.om !егtiсаI slash to c€nteT frопt. Гаsrел pattern pieceJ to the рарет. Re].{ale the rтa!r!line daг!s л fol]oч,s: a уеа!Jrt ir.,fi...1.r frФпl line to dirt

,2

for the snallbшýt

out off patteTn mаrgiп at loweT edge of bodice fIont. Under bottom edge рlасе рареr and tтace оп it the еdgе of the раttеrп, on the patteln, сопп€сt tbe point of the waistline dalt and the point of the чпdевIm daIt witb а реп€il line. cut thlough centeT oJ waiýtiine dart, сопtiпчiпя thlough drаvп line and centeт of undelaтm dart. (Diaglam о.) Pin сепtеr fгоltt section oJ раtЪm to the рарег along dIawn line at bottom. Using the diagonal slаýh between the two dart poitts aS the key tine, tay the side Section oJ the pattel}1 in р]асе, lapping the cut edges У2 the аmоuпt пееdеd to decTeaýe. Fasten in place. (Diaglam Ь.) 6 since this Taises thе ýide ýё.tiоп oJ the patteln, uýe tbe drawn ]ine at the bottom as the cutting line {от the lоwёr edge. 1 At sido зеаm. dlaw а new cutting line fTom above dart centeI to аrmhоlе. Below the daIt, use the cutting line on the patteгn.


llДJ

for а large шрреt аIm 1

lог the large hцýt

When you take your body meaýuTementý and find waist, hip al1d back waist lenath in agIeement with а ceriain ýize, but уочr buýt is taTge loI that size, it iý best to 8et the size patteTn that aerees with уочr thTee meaýul€ments and alter the pattem in the buýt. гоf if you go Ьу уош bust mеаSurеmепt, the renaindel of the body measurements will ье too laIsie {от уочI fi8uIe and уоu wilt have mole a.ltelations to make. S;nce а lатgе bust cauýeý а bodice flont pattem to Ье not only too патrоw but aISo too sholt JoI the front waiýt lengtb (Shouldel to waistline), the pattem needý lengthening as well аs widening. S]аýh pattern veltically through c€nter of waistline dalt to shouldet sеа,lп Liпё. Cut раttегп apaтt hoTizontally thfough сепtег о{ underarm dаIt, Plnce рареI undel pattern. WhеIе lengthwiýe and сгоззwisе ýlasheý дeet, spTead the pieces horizonta.lly and velticatly % the amount пё€dёd to enlaTge, keepiпg сепtеf |fопt Line stfaight. Place papel undeгneath, Still keeping сепtеI fIont tine stгдight, tapel the vertical slash ffоm the сюsswisе slash to th€ shоuldег. Ке€р the сfоssйве slash ап ечеп width all acTosý the раttегп. Fasten the spfeadpattern pieces tothepapel маkё а пеw dart at the underalm Ьу Starting in the eenteт of the crossl,,/ise slash at the point of the oтiginal dart and drawing ýlantinя liles to the огigiпаl daft stitching lines at the side ýеаm. lf the nelv dart would Ье very.algp. make two Бmаllег on"S. 1Ъ restoтe the waistline measuтement, make two пеw waistline darts of equal depth, one iп the poýition of the oTiginal daTt and the otber пеатеI the undelarm sеаm. К€ер the centeT line of the пеw daтt pamllet to the

cut offmargin {rоm ýleeve pattem.

2 Оп рарет, tIace the outline of епtirе sleeve. з Staгt at top сепtег ; cut patteTn Straight to wгi ýt sФm, 4 Pin pattёTn lоrrег edge to lowef edge oJ tlaced slе€че. 5 At about 1" below чпdеrап!, spfead ýlashed pattern the песеssаrу amount. Fаstеп to рареI just Ь€lоw thiз point. Bfing top edees of ýtaвhed piec€s togetheт апd fasten. (ар. 1 ТЬ ffatten patteTn, fогm dагts fтom ýlashto Sleeve

cut out Sleeve, use original traced line fог the Bteeve top, blending it into the new line of the altered раttеrп. on Ъоth bod;ce flont and backpatteгns, add to Side ýeams atundeTalm 16 the amount added tothe sleeve width, tapeTing to just above 1vaistline аý Shown.

8 То

for а thin црр0I аlm

This merhUJ аltрrs wilhout diýtuIbing slee!e grain. Flоm Small dots on back and lTont of sleeve сар, dTaw зlапliпg lines to сепlег оl pall Fгп loweI pdge. on these two liпеý make tucks. Depth oJ each tuck at

sleeve top should Ье % the amountneeded to Ье геmочеd. Тареr tucký tonothing at bottom. Оп side sёаms of fTont and back bodice patterns, mеаsчге iп at the аImhоlе уа the amounttaken out of thё sleeve, Гromthiý point dIаwа пеw Side seam .uпins llпе 1ареrlпс lo nothing al 1hе waist]ine, Рlа€е рареI undef loweT cul've of almholei fasten patЪш to it. Starting atnew side seam line, raise аImhоlе cuttine line thе amount taken оtr of Bide seam. btendinя it into oliginal cutting line as ýhown.


how to соmЬiпе 2 patterns Whеп 1ooking fof а dress patteтn and уоu find one with а bodice you tike but you ргеJеI а ditreгent skiгt (от vice versa), the tгick iB to get two pattems and

And you can do the same thing if youl meaýufements indicate you аге one size above and sпоthет below

The fo]towinli combinations аrе еаýу to make, b t they apply о?r? to combining two siиplicir, patteTns.

to comhine bodice and skilt of difiereпt sizes

Decide whеthеI уоu want to uýe the waist гпеаsulеmепt of bodice оI skiTt. Altel the waisttine of the оthеI patt€ln piece, mаkiпа it laтgeT от Ёmаllеr as needed, (See page 20 fоI thiý patteтп ,lteIation.) chock placement of waistline daltз iп alteIed piece. Relocate iJ песеýSату. to combine sleeve afid bodice 0f 2 ýtyles

I{ bodice is dalt-fitted, апу sleeve frcm апу dalt-{itted bodice can Ь€ substituted foт the sleeve in the patteTn, pfovided уоu ale combining two ,Simрliсiiз, раttегпý. But а shilt type sleeve cannot Ье substituted in а dalt-fftted bodice nol vice veNa. This is because а shouldeг and flont аImhоlе о{ а shiтt type bodic€ аrе cut difiercntly frоm tbose of а dalt-fitted bodice. The above аlsо applies to sераrаtе blouses,

to соmьiпе hodice and ýkirt ol sапе ýize

Check placement of waiзtline dагtý in both bodice and Skift. Pin-in furts in both раttегп piecell; pin bodice and SkiIt togetheг, matching side seams al1d centeтs. (тhеrе will Ье еаSе in ýkirt waist}ine.) о. 'rogfor? at waigtline, If daгt ýeams in both pieceý do not mаtсh T€locate ýkiI' dalts ýо sеаm lines lalt directly below tbose of bodice dafts. Diagfafп Ь.

l

ноlr to R.lo.df. lldfls

l

Measufe on bodice waistline seam the diýtance fl.om bodice centeт to dalt Stitching line. оп skiтt waistline ýеаm line, measule the same diýtance fгоm the center. МаIk this point fог one ýtitching line of new daтt. меаsuге width oJ оriяiпаl skiIt daтt at waistline and mаIk Second Stitchin8 lille of пеw daтt. 'ог between the two maтk"-, dтаw а fold liпё for Halfway пёw daIt. Кеер it раIяl]еl with and game length as fo]d line oJ original daгt. FIоm stitching line points, draw glanting lines to end Reklcating 2 Dafts 1 Malk fo! the пеw dalt that iS пеаrег the сепtеI. 2 Then measure from Stitchinei line of fiIst bodice daIt to stitching tine of ýecond bodice daIt. lIеаýчrе same diStance from stit.hing line of neв,skiri dart and mark for Stitching liп€ of ýесопd skirt dart. sl,irJ lсJ -".,rt !tl.alз of darL.. tbe pleat fold '/ ,hфld .otnctde ýltb 'nst€Ыt.р ad cdlt dбrt s.sm,

2L

to сопhiпе а separate skirt and Ьlочýе patter0

Locate waistiine of blouse. Dlаw а line acTosý pattern. Thiý witl Ье the rraiýtline зеаm line of the dresý bodice. Meaýule %" below waiýtline fоI sеаm al]owance and dЕw а second line асIозý patteIn. This is cutting Iine tol dIФs bodice. cut ofi loweT раrt о{ blouse pattern below this second line. when joining bodice and skilt, you will ffnd mоrc еаsе in the bodice Фaistline than noTmalty found iп а one-piece dTesв (unless the blouзe iý а ýпuяtу-ffttеd опе). Eithe. dalt this iп оI esse it in to fft the Skirt Eaiý|ljne, lf dагt is madF. place it diгect]]r oYer я,aiýtline dart of sНгt, if tьёгё is sDch а dart_


уоцr sеwiпg dictionary

Like апу language, the language of sewing

continually сhапgеs аs пеw methods intToduce пеw woIds and рhrаSеs. Explained hеrе are ýome of the telms used а great deal in mоdеrп ýewing. Весоmе wеu acquainted with theýe terms so that when you meet thеm you will undeTstand at once what they mеап.

еqчiрmепt terms d.Ossmakeas ttacing paper.

А gpecial type of

coated рареr L]sed in tfansfeтTirtg conýtгuction Symbols flom the pattern to the fаЬгiс. It eomes packa8ёd in vaTious colors, light and dafk, Сhооsе а со]ог that will ShоW piainly against the соlоI oJ your fabfic, but that witl not shоw thтough shееI fabfics. (Sее page З5, fоr inýtiuctions оп how to

maтk with tгacing рарег.) intorfacing. Mnterial fог stiflening, Shaping от leinJoтcing ceтtain Sections of а galment. Ir.t€flocfпg mау Ье woven (,!vith lengthwise ,nd .ToSSwiSe thrcads) such aS canvas oI mustin, oI it mау Ье non,woven, with the Iibles plcssed togethel in а matted effect, It pays to buy good quality intefacing. (Fот 1!hеп and hоw to use iпt€Ifаеiпq. see Dages 82-84.)

gauge). Designed to assiýtin making Seams of even width, Attached to thеЪёd of tbe sewingmachine atthe deEiled distance fTomtheneedle, it acts aS nguide foIthe faЫic edge,lt сдп Ье adjusted to dif erent widths, Тhете аге Sevent types oJ thesefoт use with rlifelent types of sewing machines, inctuding aguide that can Ье adjuýted fоr чsе with sеаm guide (oI sеаm

cordiпg foot. This, too, has а single рrолg but

is not adjuýtable. Both fight and lеJt

согdiпg foots аrе available and mау Ье used JoI ziррег iпsёгtiоп. But both typeý ''rc necessaтy if Stitching iý to Ье dопе аhчауS

stitching terms backýtitching. Backcti l.thiпg Se"U гFs i he епd*

of lines of Btitching. Modeтn sewinli machines will stitch backwaTd as we]l зs forwaтd. If уоur mасhiпе does not backstitch, teave the needle in the fabfic at the end of the stitching. Lift the рIеýsет foot and turn the matelial around оп thе needle. Then lowel the ргеssеI foot апd siitch over the filst stitching JoT about У9 inch. haýteýtitching (оr mасhiпе basting). То baýte Ьу machine, adjuýt the stitch Tegulato} foT thё longeýt stitch (6 pel iпсh оп mostmachines), ТЬ геmоче machine baýting, Snip the bobbin thlead ечеrу few inches and pttll out shoTt

thleadý. AlrFays Ьаsrа-sfirс' in the direction of the аIrоwS pTinted on the Seam lineý of (See page 12,) уоuг Simplicity Patte},n.

[aste-mark.

whеп constmction symbols,

malkeal оп the wrопg Side of the fabTic, ате п€еdеd on the Tight ýide of the JаЬгiс (such аý buttonhole and pocket locations), basteýtitch on the wlong side Tight очег the markings pfeviou8ly trасеd thеге.

Fоr shеег {abTicý, uýe а ýtitch slightly ]опgеr than svefage; fоI machine-gatheriпg.

zipper foot.

А Specia}ly designed ргеSsеr foot

fof use in putting: iп zjppels. It has only one ргопg. Most ziррff loo' attachments ате

adjtstabte, the опе рrопg stiding to light uf lert tог ut" оп cilheг lidc ol lhp zipp"r сhаiп. This allows both sides of the zippeI to ье Stitched jп the sаmе dilection , . , with the ягаiп of the fab c.

hеачiеr fabгics, incIease the ýtitch l€n8ith. Stitch whеrе the gathers ате needed, as in_ dicated on the pattern от in th€ РIimеI, Puil up the bobbin thтead fтom both endý until the gathers аге the ртореr length. Fasten both ends of the gathering thгеаd, Оп most fabrics, а second ToW of stitching is helpJut.

25


сOпstrшсtiOп tBrms Апу direction оп the fabTic away the ýtraight lengthwise or сгоýSwisе (See Dадiе 29 оп FаЬIiсý.) bias.

stay"stitching.

А line of Iegutation lenlith

machine stitching done оп bias от cuTved adses lhаl аrе lo ье jojned lo апоthеr piece, It iS done to hotd the gгаiп so the fаЬгiс wjll поt stTetch duтing conýtгLlction. sro?srrrсП on а Siпglё thickness of mateIial, ,1s" fтom the seam iine within the seam allowance. (ExcEPTloN: д deep cuTve ог :] песk]iпе. нете. зrо]/-srifсtiпg ýhoirld Ье done on the seam line.) stay"stitch immediately aft€T removing the pattern, шith the grail in the diTectioný

shown Ьу the afrows iп the diagтams.

А Shоft snip in а

sеаm allowance ог selvage with the point oJ the ScissoTs at an angle to the Seam oI selvage. Seams ате .iipped ýо the outeт edges wiIl Spread apalt to fit апоthег Section of the gзTment, oI so а curved ýеаm will lie flat whеп tuгned, от ýо а selvage will not dгаw up ог c!Tl. Where а pattern indicates that а clip is to Ье made into а corner, do поt make the clip until you аrе ýewing on that palt of the gаrmепt, clip.

ease mау mFап опе оf lwo jhiпgs: The clighl fullness of опе sean edge not found in the опе to which it is to Ье joined; or the ettTa

top-stitching, А ]iпr оr linps of stit hinc made on the o].t'srdc of the gаImепt Jailly close to lh( sеаm line, Еоr example. а couar ог сutr eitheT fоI decoTation iS oJten i' ýеаm еdgе in place. of to hold'op-ýrrt.n€ the Iolied

sprce оr "toleтance" designed into а patteTn to allow the body to move comfoгtably in the finished яагmепt. (гоr ease аllо]rапсе in Simplicity Patterns see page 8,) In constIuction, you аIесопсетпеd chiefly with the fiTst definition. The most соmmоп place to ffnd €dJ€ iý at the top of а sеt-iп ýleeve. AnotheI muсh uýed афа is the back shouldeI ýeam. YouI Simplicity Pattem will iлdicate cleaIly whеrе PaJP iý lo Ье adjuated, easc Shou]d Ье woTked-in €чепlу

А tеrm ýometimes uýed to desclibe top-stitchiпg dопе оп the гi8ht Under.stitching.

side of а facinsi yerI cloýe to the ýеаФ ]ine в,hiсh iý to Ь€ rolled inside sо the .tjtchina дпd 9€ал ýill not ýhо*,.

between patteTn mагkiпgs without looking gathered ог puckered. Pin the ýеаm with pins closeI tояеthет whеI€ the sas. iý found. If thеге iý mоте than just а slight futlness to ье easedin, аý in thе top of а Sleeve, mаkе опе от tтo lines of eaJe-strrcftй9, Тhеп pull up еithеI the top ог the ЬоЬЬiп thrеsd fTom both ends lo adjust thP fullлess.


Stitching uýing about 10 stitch€s to the inch foI the puTpose ol contlolling еже. Whеп one Tow is used, place it оп the sедm line. whёп two юws аrе ease,stitcfting.

wапtёd, рlасе опе on the Seam line and the othel just tjeyond the ýеаm line within the sеаm allowance, ease threads. Tbrcadý uýed

in eaýe-stitching

which аrе to Ье puiled up to sdjust the

slash. То cut open. А ореп afteT ýtitching so

opening at the

wlist

it will lie flat. тhе

Еаiп. Either lengthwiýa оI cTosswise threads of the fabTic. Lengthwise thrеаdý аIе usually геfеrlеd to asthestrai!]ht gfailx. Unlesý the patteTn iпdicates that it iS to Ье laid оп сгоýýwisе grаiп, itý ciTainlinemalký should ruп withthe lenяthwise gгаiп.

\

againstthe glain

wiii

tho grain

tack. То hand-ýew опе ýection of а gaтmentto апоthет with а Jew somewhat loose stitcheý. ,4,arrple ., You "tack" а neckline facing to the galment at the shoulder Seams.

lrith the grain: In the direction in which the JabTic gTain гuпS. Whеп{аЬгiс is cut опа е ol ýlant (bias), you cut "with the

сч

gтain"; you stitch "with the gгаiп"; you press "with the grain". agaiпst thegain: In а direction opposite to that in which the fabтic gгаiп ruпS. Дчоid whеп possible woтking "against the gTain".

This iS also ca]]ed sfogrrrir.g or gIodir.g.Itis а methodof eliminating зеаm layeling]

bulk in heavyfabгicý оl in sеаms whele inteгfacing has been uýed. Theseams ате tlimmed а]рау with one sеаm allorп&nce naTrowel than the other. (Fоr detailed instTuctions оп laUerrgl s€е page 88.)

cut away ехсеýз tahт\c. ТriпLmiлg оссцrs mosl оf!ёп in ýеаms sh.rе fhe cxcess ýеаm allo,wance is cut away. (See layering opposite.) coTners аfе tfimm.ed Ьу alltting diagonally aclosý the point close to the' stitching.

trfun. То

А lining which is ап integйi рдrt of а galment and used to keep а ýkirt or underliпing.

dreýý fTom ýtтetching оI Bagging out о{ ýhаре, от to accent the sh&pe of а gaiment. (See pageв 85-87 fоr hоw to underline.)

pir0t. Iэaving the needte in thefabгic, tum the material beingstitched iп anewdirection. This iý done whеп sriиhiпg arouлd а соrпет.

Unit шOrk рlап.

rеiпforсе. Ъ stтengthen ал ares. yon fein| оfсе а еогпеr that iý to Ье tlimmed and tulned, оI опе that is to Ье clipped. Reinforcement is usually dопе Ьу using vely ffпе stitches in the аf€а. (See Reinfoтce-

In thiý method each unit, оIýесtiоп, ofa gaтment is compteted as fullyaý posýible Ьеfоrё joiningit to the next unit. Thiý Tesolts in teýs handtingof the various pieces of а gaтm€nt, keeps them Jrеýhеr looking, and sач€s time. (See page 2, fог chaIt оп the

ment Stitch, Dаgе 28.)

This is the constтuction method uýed in the Simpticity SystemoJ Sewing.

Unit WогkРlап.)


пееdlе, thread & stitch gцide lаЬгiс tшеý

ýiоOr

-l-.;;

liяЬtшеiФt

пOdlum Weight

mеdiчm ieavy

,1,5

hcaly

i

_-] vor, heavy

plrsticý

-

--_-+-

-

l!l

---i---'--__-i_.*-__i"---l r.rо i г,.. l

ll,_

?,з

taýic ýtitch leпgths Thele ате 4 Btitch lёпеithв which ате most geneтally usеd and each hаs а special puryose, as followý: Rе!ц]аtiоп Stiteh . . . fl.om 12 to 16 реr iпсh, depending оп the type fabгic. Fiпе апd lightweight fabricý use shoTtel lengthý, (See сhатt above.) Ваstiпg Stitch . , . the |ongest Stitch оп youT machine. Доsе srrrсh .. . abont 10 to the inch, UBed foT easing-in {ullneýs evenly, (See Еаýе, page 26,) Rеiп|опеmеfut gt,itch , .. about 20 to the inch, Used in атеаý that пееd ýtrengthening, (see ReinfoTce, рбgе 27, ) to fastgп stitchcý

MachiпeSti'tchin{r.IfTлachineýtit{hesbackward,endbyStitchingbackfor4or5stitches.Ifthreads

Shoutd Ье fastened at the staTt, put пееailе into JabTic 4 оI 5 stitches ahead oJ staтting point and stitch back to Starting point. lf machine does not stitch backward, pull thrеsds thюugh to *топg ýide and tie. oft start 4 ог 5 stitches in fгоm the stalting point and Бtitch to the starting pointj then piтot the woTk оп the пееdtе апd Stit h. яdйd strt.l.ý, At sиrt, use kпоtt€d thгеаd iplace knot оп wгопg Side) ог fAsten thгеэd with оп€

ortB,o.tit.hбoýerthefirs!..lten.t.holdthгeaddoNnlTiththethumbitak€aba,k_,titch,andbefo,e drlrirr8 rb! ,rt b liabr рs_6s tbe n€edle чпdеr фе stit b loop to Ев}е 3 hot,

2'


fabrics choose}.ouT lablicв caIefully. маk€ sure they sJ it bo'h yoUr раil,,гл and }оuг ffgUre, А rаЬri. сап make you appeaтlalgel от Smalleт, talteт ог sьоrtеr, о]dеIогуоuпqеf. оп the backofyouT Simpticity patteгn envelope, you wiillind а liSt ог ] hF tаЬriс iypPs зuccested tOr th. pat]eTn,

terms yotl shoшld kпоw ofJabтic. on ceгtain types of fabтics the selvage will Ьеwочеп tighteг оI closeT than the restof the piece. selvage. The woven lengthwiseedge

cr0sýwise gtain

Оtr-gгаiп {аЬгiсs tIested with ceItain реImапепt ýtabilizing finishes cannot beýtTaightened, but it mа.kез no ditreTence as they willnotstTetch out of ýhape. Butwhen placingýueh fabrics on table {оr cutting, sqllale the endý with the Setvage; that is, cut the ends во theymake а fightangle with the setvage. IfaJabгic iБ ргlЪrеd otr-grain, cuteach of two matchingpieces sepalately - Such as the two Jrontý of а Ыоugе - liпiпg чр the Sееопdрi€сё with the design on the ff.st. Тоtеагп if otheIfabгics аге glain-perfect, fiгst stmichten епds. Тhеп foldin hatf lепяthwiýе апd pinedgeS of oneendtogethel. Pin selvages together.lf pinned fаЬгiс lies Яаt and ýmooth on а table, it is on gIain.Ifnot оп glain, чýеопе oJ these methods to st iighten: ýtraighten fabric gtain. Nоt€,,

io' ТhеlёпglhWi.рапd.rо..uits,lЪгпаd.. Lengthuise Graill.'lh.teads that ruп uр and grаiп,

do\Tn,

parallel to the selva8ie. СrоýýФrs€ сIоiй, Тhrеаdý that luпасгоss between the Selvages. bias, Апу dilection away flomthe lengthwise ог cIosýwiSe glain.

ýtlaight

Гlй€ Bras. The diagonal liпё folmedwhen fаЫiс

is foldedso сIоsýwisе threads Iun in the snme dir.ct ion Js leng'hwiJ" l hr.аJа. , Тruс B,.l is the equivalent of the hypotenuýe о{ ш equilateral dEht-anдiled tтiangle. )

preparation for cutting

+ оutа

оI

cottoný апd some оthеrfаьriсs, if not treated with а wrinkle-Teýis tant оr lesin finish, can Ье toIn StTaight. Simp]y Snipthe selvasie апd

B?it,

if

tтeated with such а finiýh, shoutd Ье cut. , . both fTom the boltwhen purchasing and at hоmе if ends must Ье апу {аЫiс,

IJ not badly ofi-grain, try stlaightening Ьу ýteam plessing. La}. fabricfiaton а cuttingboard, Pin ýe]vages and endý to ЬоаId, squaredoff. Рlасе ýteim iгоп on tablic, lift and move it to next атеа. Do NoT push iгоп backandJolth.

ihi.

опе

|

Fоid fаЬгiс lengthwise ; pin ýelvagesand ends. Гold loosely sevel.at times. Put in wаrm water foI about 20 minutes. Remove and unfold butleave piný in. Hang ýtraight очеr etotheshoTse Ьагs ог several lowý ofciothes lin€, Whеп dry, test foT ýtтaight gтain. Repeat if needed.

*,,| \[\

straighteп fahric епdý. Snip Selvasie; pul] closslvise thread, cut аlопq this }ine,

Pull fabтic on bias in dilection opposite tothatin which the оtr-grаiп cтoýswiýe thгeads Tun, untit thethгeadý атё Straight and squaгedwiththe selvage,

for untrBated wаshаh|е fablics Uso аj,hег оГ thе lwo рrеl ious mpl hoJq ог

жJ ь

for апу untreated fabric

shrinl tabric if necessary. Moýt modeTn fabIics €specia]ly woolens and mап-mаdе ffbe.s - hач€ hаd а shliпkаgе contrcl trcatment.If yourfablic haýnot, оI if its ýh гi n kage tolerance iý mоге than 1%, it Should Ье ýhrl]пk befoIe cutting. t0 shlinkGOitons 0r 0thet washables

Follow method describcd foI StIaightening wnýhable fabтics, using hot water and teaving {nbric immеrsеdfогflоm % to 1holll.

29


i._/

-' /,

handling special fabrics

пар dOwn

пар up

.l

selvages

l

,l

,]

{,

1 'old

1

t

darker

С/

,l'

i

I

l li lighter

парреd, pile or 0пе,wау fabrics dsiinitiOný

А порpеd |abric is опе with а haiTy оr dоwпу surface. lt mау Ье "unbтushed" ltпch аs flannet, or one brushed iп опе diTection such as wool broadcloth. (Оп pattelns, "пар" mеапS anJl

J

prl, lol,//c hаý а sufface composed of fiЬеI ends standing up, such as lelvet,

А апе-|ац pliпt

r-eare has а design that moves in опс direction only, suсh as а ]1оwеI plint ý,ith thе flоwеr heads ali pointing the Sаmе ýау, \Yhen laid оп snch fabтics, all patten pieceý muýt hаче their tops poillting in the Same dilection, as in drog"c|, а. Therefole befole buying these fablics. consolt the back of youI Datt€Tn enve]ope |о,*р iГ чаrdаяе i< given Гоr thiý lip. Гаоri., If not, ;[dd ill to З,li yald to the giтen yardag€, о1,

If the wiclth of youт Dsttегп pieces is ýuch that they must Ье cut crosswiso oJ the fabтic and you vапt to cut 2 thicknesseý at one time, mеаýurе

the ]ength of }.our k)ngest patteтn picce and cut the fabric сIоSswisе at that ]ength. Тhеп tuтn the ппtlеr lауеf around so the bottom edJae ЬесоmёS ,lvith the top, and р]асе uррег and lоwеr ]аусrg г'ghl .jdas l,,gFllс., ThP пъп, p'l" пг dcsi8n Uп both pieces поw Iuпs in the same clil.€ction. If you аI€ usjng а Wide wale eotduтoi, and vant cheýrons, treat like а stlipe, hOv t0 sew

Sin.e лхl.р.d апd nil" Гаhr:,* 1Fпd

stitching, Seams Should Ье basted. If you pin-baste, place pins cloýe togethef at Iight angles to edges and, if уоur machine ýtitches ovel pins, do not Iemove them as i.ou stitch. Use, Slightly ]onger-than-avelage machine Stitch

ftow t0 cut

Ntр or pite lunning l.р makes аJаЬriс look dят}еr: ruплiгg doll, mokp, jl 1ook l,yhl"r ard,hi,io,, lvh en D, ] I t is general]y conýi deIed best l ';agrcrl the пар funs doli, for fabfics Such aS пооl bToa.tcloth, vetours, fieece, etc,, апd хр foт the pite weaYes ve]vet. lelYeteen and cord loy. То leatlL,u7|1ch ъац the пар of pil. r?l1?ý, pa-,s i,ouI hand lightly along the fаЬгiс length, If it f,els .lmooLh and Lr.re.js''Is lo }.U. lo!j(h, lhF аlrп iq гuппiпg in the diгection уоu ale moving },оur hапd. lf it fcels roughiSh and Tesists youl touch, it is running opposite to youl hand moYement,

Il

о

|)atter hаs по .Iia|]lam Jol cuttiпg папсd

ol опе-фщ f abrics, ,\ftange раtt€m as follows: With tops of all pieces pointing in same direction. on а l.,gfrais. fold, i{ 2 pieces аIе to Ье cut 1lt опё lir@., D,og,0- J,, Do NoT Lc, а сrосiuiс" fold, b€c:]use Simi]al pjeces ivi11 hа!е the пар Tunning up on опе and dоц,п оп tha otheT, Ап exception to this is the fttll ciIcle ýkiTt fоI i. a.].lt Thi. n1ust .* cUi оп а сгоSSýisе . .:. , .; .: ::-, :rp \.ill ,], l

f 1.] п .:: .., ,! :ae.i;.1

J,

t^ ýIip ln

nnd lessen the ргеSSuте on the рIеSýог {oot, гoI согdulоу and velveteen gathercd skiTts, gather Ьу hand \lith Stitches about %" long. how to

1

pless

Nol]pel], FаЬ]i.|з

I| bl.|Shed' рfеss 1l.;th the nip, ltrsing aS little preýSuTe апd moistпfe as роssiЫе. I| 1lllЫllshe(1, place apiece of wool fabтic ovef the ironing ьоаId. Plac€ right side of gafment ag:inst the ll,oot and pтess on wlопg side. \Thile lll,ri, i. slill ,leaTi.lg, Ьгu-h si-h 'hё gr.iг, i]estTeýults are obtained Ьу using а vetyet pressing boald. . , а lengith of canvas coleled with t]plight рiес€s oJ wiтe, Place the pile side againSt the wiге ard р"е:s'jдht\. Iitlin8:1no |olv"r пf \р ir,,п, If а lelvet Ьопгd iý not avai]ab]e, stand а dly iIon оп its hееli р]асе а damp ргеSS c]oth oýer the wюпg sjde of the faЫic апd pass the mnterial back апd folth olel the ]rоп so the steam р€пеtгаtеs the !i]e, , D;a!rtanl с.) -\ thiгil bul less зatisfrctors r method is to 1ау :ie iаi,гi( !!le .ide Jоýп o\eI selelal thicknesýes , : :]r;i.ii :"rr! !1,!чеlS апd steam,press light]y.


plaids If уоuг patteтп does not liзt yaтdages foT plai&, you wilt need about % уаId extTa if the plaid is

aveTage ýize, от about % yard il а laTge plaid. Another way to dеtегmiпе the ехtга yardage is to count the пчmЬеI oJ locationв whете thе design must Ье matched апd buy one €xtra plaid biock

ar-'

пrДо

Веfоге laying pattem on fabTic, plan thё position оl tbe mojl noli(eat,le lFпеithsiзе and crosswiýe Ьатв. The dominant lengthwise Ьат чsuаliу looks best in the centeT and the cTosswiýe, just below the shoulders, Тrу to avoid рlлсiпg darts оп the mmt Doticeable ЬаIs. hov/ t0

\,

c[t

ГоI accuracy in cutting, pin the labric lауегs

\i

toge(her alona thё plaid lineý in both directions ýо they will not ýhift. РIап to matcb at thеýё роiпЪ: Fоf bodice оr blouse: At centers and ShoutdeтS. В€саuýе oJ the uпdейгmdатЬ plaidý usually caвIlot Ье matched the full len8th of the uпdетаfm seam. centeT bAck of соllаг should mдtсh centef back of bodice ог ыоЕsе_

whеп uпечеп in Dоrй direcrions, howeveT, it muýt Ье а woven plaid with по light and wTong ýide if it iB to Ье balanced, and it mnýt Ье seamed от have ап opening at the ceT\tef, То cut th,is tape pJard, раttегп pieceý аге taid оп а single thicknesý ot ГаЬriс. AfteI cutting thp ffrst pie(e. do по1 rеmоче the pattern but lay the cutpiece оп а second аrеа sо the ptaids Tunning lengthwis€ апd стоýýwise mаl.th thosp ог thс ffгst picce, аý shoM iл didgror, а. Тhеп cut the ýecond piece, Since the fabIic Ьаý no right or wTong Side, опе of the two matching pieces is then tufned оч€т wbeD joined to the othel

t

Fоf sеt-iп sleexes: At

notch€ý of атmhоlе and зlеечеs along the ýеаm ]ine. If they cannot Ье matched at both back and tтont, match at the ffont. (

Dia!]falп

d,.)

For Ипоfuо slee|$: At the notch

on the ýhouldeT

Лоf s/.rTrsr At сепtет seams and when роsýiЫе, at side ýеаmý. But а plaid can Ье matched the entire length of а skirt Seam опlу whеп the two seam lines to Ье ioined ме identical in dеgIее of ýlant, fо, dт€ýýas., The futi tenфh ol centeI flont and То C1!l

Match Uпа,еп РIа,idБ Ал "uneven" plaid is not the same оп both sid€ý oJ thё outstanding Ьаr, Itmay Ье чпечеп acro$ the fabt\c, ot \епgthuisе, оI in both dircctioný. ll the рlдid jý чпеуеп опL! lenglhш;be, lhеге is no ртоЬlеm in balancing it on both sides of the €епtеr. If itiý uneven oйl?octoýs the fabric, itmay Ье ba]anced both sid€s of centel Ьу having а centel орепiпg ог Ьу ýeaming the eenters. То

Ъ

Pla , аhеrrм

cut plaid сhечгопs, thеrе must Ье а bias ýeam whеIе the chevron iý to appeaL ( Diagram t.) ТЬ cut chevrcns fTom ап чпечёп plaid, the fabIic must Ье identical оп both sides. cut the fаьriс in halJ crosswiýe. Place опе piece oveт the оthег with thesame sidefacing upon both рiёсеý {огсuttiпg. Тhе pieces аrе then sewed with а "Tight" side against а "wfong" ýide _ pelmiýsible since both sides дrё identical.

31


fчr

stripes horr to

howto

cut

!'ur fаЬгiсý should

As with plaids, theтe are both even and uпечёп

No рюЬIеmý exist in cuttinsi ечеп ýtripes; mеrеlу obsвrve the олdiDаrу рrесаutiопs оf laying matching parts оп the Eame stIipe; avoid placing daтtý on the moýt поtiсеаЬlе stripe; and pin the two lауеrs oJ Jabric togethel a.long the Btripe lines so they wiil not Shift in cutting. Clltting Uпе1, ell S tripe з cut as опе-vау fаЬriсs, with tops ol pattern pieces pointinsl in same direction. For чпрорп l?лglhl,;s, s/пр.s., When there iЁ по seam at the centeт о{ the bodice апd/ог ýkiгt, the best аrтапgеmепt of stтipeý is Ltsually сопSidегеd to Ье followin8: Tight аючпd thё figure. chooýe thе BtTipe you rпant in the centeT of the ггопt and ba.k, Тhеп uýё thе same ctripc гоr the сепt€I of the ýlееч€ý. Fof uпеl,еп сfоъsNоisе slfr?€ýl I,еt the stIipes move down the bodice and skiгt in thei" natuni Sequence, alld mаtсh thesleeve ýtтipesto thc bodice зtIiреs at the поtсhеs. Matching Stfipes iп Skift sеаmв ДS in plaids, а Stlipe design сап Ье rnatched the епtiге length of the skirt ýeam only when the two Seam lineý ате identical in degTee of ýiant. Cut ting S tripa С he|f опз ТЬ cut eithel ёч€п от uneven stTipeE in сhечгоп efiect, уоu may uýe а сгоssrdзе fold of the fаЬгiе, Fог cutting even Stlipes, а lengthwise fold can also Ье used if thefabIic iз Фide enough. Ptace the ýide seams ot thе pattFrn on the tancthwice crain. StTip€s.

l

,,

ýj.i;, ./,,

/

-

l1.,/

2i

/'

Satiýfасtоrу tа !ц! Lt out wiЩ_е,ц,,g"_ЦЦЗs_ас The fдzот ыаdе са !щ Ls_!цirЦstеqd j]Цh Ье mole eжily controlled Sо not sо many hails о{ the fаьгiс will Ьё cut. how to prasý

ll

is nexl |о impoqsible to gel а fine, .hаrр sедm\ line in lur fabrics Ьу ргес.iпg, So tr) t]ris: \ l Plaee t}ie right side of the Jur fabIic qщJcl!_et Мщd. ( IJ ve]ret Ьоа,Ц 19 ц!еуа!!ф!е-цýеýеIецаl thicknesses оf_tетIу towelý.) .* 2 Рlас€ а cloth ovel the ýеаm and steam tightly ithout lettinя the iIоп touch the t З Then with а hervy object, such аý а tailoт'S ctappe| Lр' ,,,5 оr eYen the head of а hammer. Dоuпd the Seam flat. + 4 catch-stitch the sеаm edges to the lаЬIiс. ],:J".

,

5-

,

Ье

{"

/!-2,

" €orl"rq

treated as "опе-wау" fаЬriсе

);1 1/,..),,.,z, -.д"*,1"",,i.,j If the fablic is чегч beavy, it will usually ье mоте

,

orrt!ЩgЬsiilrlЙa

tq рiф up tht haifs that have Ьееп caught in the s€аm oI maýhed down. я

г;"

lf ffnished

/--

еdяеs аfе being DTeSsed, Suсh as а fэсеd ,ucket. use two velvet ьоаrdЁ or tuш опе end of the board oveT the faciлg. (Di&grй| g,) or же tеIrу towelý both uпdег and оп t(lp of the edge,

stretch fabrics

u2. \ Ьl<- ! /,r'

-L-.-Т,-

1]",{'

i"

exaýpefating when you аге pinning on tbe pattem. неrе ате sоmе hints for lesýeninc the_ s]ipparie: 1 Pin together the ýelvages and the croýýwiýe ands. Тhеп pin together at JI9quэ_чtЦ![vДs.-thе*]ц,о,, \ Iауеrs .) 2 lJ you use а rеgчlаr cuttilg tаЫе, anchoт the. рiппе{ fabTic to_ !h.e tаЦl9__rdjЬ_!дLог gaý_kiдs thе ends, саrеJullу squaгing thё length апd width. If you have no table you rrish to tгеаt in this ,ау, uýe youT table pad if you bave опе оr апсhоr the fаЬгiс to а cutting boaId. оI trу placin8 а bed sheet ovel the tab]e and ]a},ing the fabric о!еr that.

oilabrjc. е,

Ье

*x,:,;l/,

jn the same direclion ýо rbe hаirs will all ru0

Dr'PP' tabrics 7' а. ;", "Blippy" !,а42M, 'l'l',"uС 1a?j),,,?-,, ,,,' Т () 4*"' howt0cul 1-1'' FаЫiсý like Ny]on Jefjg, Ьr !Дlпе s;]} саn

fabrics cut

h0{ to cut

Iп pinning patteln to Jablic, use morclins thац With non-Stletch matelials and Ье caTefui по]

jtI9!9ц]l9д}ri."_]{!!l1рддцс

When cuttjng- do поt lifllh" jф4Сr9. Ц" tabie, аllоwiпя it to stretch, Hold it down firm]у зith the

?

ne(kilneý алd shочIоегS, II Iahic rа!Fl:, otpr.a.l оr otherui(e finjýb Fdqрs ъеfота rпаLiпя \Тhеr jоiлiпя s€аБ, !jчаl Фh jле itit h, поt lопяеt than ]5 to the _ýta\

-tit.h


laminated fabrics От Stiteh with а ffltе zigzag stitch thathаs "8:ive" to it. Do поt line ааrmепts of stret h fabTic от it will not stretch on the body as it is intended to do.

t

l,/

hOшto pross

Ртёss with а tight hand and а пinimum of ýtеащ. iбwът an d TTi-thе'n,ot] ; Dчshrля thе rrоп tenda to stIеtсh th€ matelial.

knitted fabrics hOшtOcrt

L9цlr,gtjgl9!Д!lДg]9з Рас!Цg о!Ц9д!9gl

j9аjц{Ь&цц9@ý_ijý!цt-!о-д. howtOclrt

тhе thickness of the fabTic makes it difrcult to ]adiusl аftёг fittinE. lо Ье ýurе to mдkе ах nec{ýýaTJaltёrationý in the patt€Tn beJoTe cutting. Place natten оп thе RrcHT siilё of the fдЬтiс ýо the grain сап Ье Seen, And pins gо in mоfе eaýily Jrоm the fabTic Side. Use tаilог'ý tacks Jот maтkinя ýymbolý. The foam backirц will поt bold tmcing Фheet mArks. how t0 ýa

IIýа а ffne needle and about 10 ýtitches to the inch. Expeтiment to ýее iJ уоч need to Stitch thrоugh tisýue рареI.

i; fo.m theTe will

Ь

Use matchina plain fabTic fol facingý. when mаkiпg hems, Ье ýuге the stitches go through thе entire fabTic аý they mау puli очt оп]у thlough the foam. ho|9to press

patteтn is to Ье jaid оп ýiпеilе thickness, cut оп this line. Then ргеSв out the oIiginal creaýes, сAUTIoN: Avoid using the oгi8inal fold dolrn fгопt от Ьsсk от in any otheT поtiсеаЫе атеа, as it iS dificult to рrеýs out comp]etety, If the cut edges show а tendeney to rоl], pin the edges together with pins quite ctose to each otheг. In gепеIаl, knitted faьIicE Shoutd ъ€ handled in ,. mпсh tъе sаmе wav as stTetch fabTics, When ' cUliinc V,lоr n..P/. апсhот it as deвcrib€d fоr ;iill "slippy" fablics and make ýule yoltT shеаш illaтe Teally ýnaтp,

jal" ),,ч"

фt)

uзе а steam iгоп оr medium heat with а Slaýh darts and pTess flat.

sheer fabrics how t0 счt

chitron, опе of the favoTite sheeтs, hаs а sеlчаsiе lvoven ti8bteT than the reýt of the piece. FоI thiý теаsоп it haý а tendency to "buckle" whеп laid out for cuttinя. То otrset this, cIip thrcugh the entire deдt! of th€ S€lvegeý eleIy few inches befoTe laying оп the pattejr_ If full gatheTed skirts of Shееr fabric ат€ ctlt оп \ lhе,,rоs.Wiýеgгаiп iпsltildоf lheuýual lPnglbWisc // grаiп. ýеаmF which would ýhow througb сап .// / oflen hр avoidpd_

on most knitted fabrics, about 12 ýtitches tqt jnch {iIl ЬF catiýгactola, ]J,lo" i,lзр,, howe_v9E" itch. ExneTiffёntl gоч rцаJ.-frп4. thai аS аr 3 to,the iдch._Ytolke,hest. stav-stitch ýhouldeTs and necklines. Line slim skilts and dlеssеs with Ii }tweight tow to sew лfдьiсý. Inýt€ad oJ using facings on necklines and 1, _USe а searв Ъiпd!п&оI ЦЬЬоI],ýlry,]д_узiФЦg |;,I ýезgý oJ jrcт_ев, lэ z ,, lMz_a L,sleeveless аrmhоlев, usё патIоw bindings which р 6" . .- А1,;?. , аrе muсh tess conýpicuous. I{ sеаm edges иnd 1о rоII, catch-slilch 1hеm io то avoid noticeable ýеаms, stitch th€ sеаm asecond the garment a{teT prcýýing. time about Уs" from thё Beam line зtitching, Do not tuln а hеm edge; ýimply ýtitch around the within the seam аllоwапсе. Тhеп tTim the sеаrп bottom апd catch-stitch the Iаw edge invisiЪly ctoýe to the ý€сопd зtitching. Апоthег searn fiпish to the galment, ог uýe а tailoI's hem. (See page fог shееI fabrics iý shown on page 92. Double \ryide hеrпý аге ал altIsctive sау lo frпish l when wогkiпg оп Nуlоп ierbeg, it mау Ье shееr Sklrls, Decide оп (he hёm Eidlh and leavc l п€сеýsагу to loosen both чррег and towel tensions Isice lhal d.рth 1о lurп up. Тurп tb. rrem lbe | | of the s.siпр mа.hiпё, And Lhe Drеýýчге o.f tbe dFýirёd пчmЬег of incheý and lhen turп acain the/ /,, / presser foot ShoDld Ье lesaened.ý!i!qh ý_lqyll ang. Еаmс depth, Tbiý mslез ihrее layeв of tАЫh ]I ' " evenly and Ье suге the machjлe пееdlе_ ,=l .2 ' in the hеm аrеа апd яiчеs ttre eeect о+ а ьоrаеr. i / -, rB lше and sharp.

/

n-z,p

1э2t)"!-!л,

a'",v.'e--D

;;,.

";,,:;' ъl* ;

T|,u . -l_r,^ .- n .,Lr-z r|,.rlr'J._,

.т*

Tf,J "lZ,-;l"л,* 33


cutting уOчr fabric select lhe cutting diаgгаm ýhоwп in youт

Simplicity Ртimеr JоI уоuI size pattern, theviewyou ате makiпg, width ofJabIic, and type of Jabric (whether or not it has пяр.) МаIk it fог quick identiiicatiort,

шsеfчl cutting hints

When the ýаmе piece iý shown twic€ in the diagram - опсе in solid liпе and once in а bгoken line - the piece should Ье tumed очеI Ьеfоге the sесопd cutting. to leave the pattem piece pinn€d to the fablic, you can turn your mateтial other Side чр and ptace the cut-out piece апd рiппеd pattem on the rечешеd fдьriс.

О/

it fabric iýto Ье cut ioшьlе, make suTe it

l

:l,

t

I

is

If patteln 'fl.srd€. it should ье is to Ье cut оп а srngl€ thickneýý, laid on the liaht side of the gооdз. folded with the пgйt зidе

ti

I

I

when thеге iý а group

oJ

\

9

th

singly.

sclvago

tie patt€In

tie correct

grain of the fabTic. Whеп JаЬгiс is folded fог cutting, Ье ýurе it is folded оп the StTaiaht grаiп, eitheT l€nathwise оr сIоýSwiýе аý the cutting lay

0п

diagтam directs. The double-headed атrоwрriпtеd on the patteIn muýt Ье laid оп the stгaight gTain. Place the pattern so both ашоw heads measure the sаmе distance flom the selvage, benthandl. ýhears with tlades 5" t0 7" long аrе best Jor cutting and eaýieýt to handle. cut with tong, ffrm strokes, печег quite closing the shеаIs. Do not lift faЫic fIom the table: hold il-dow'lr with thenon_cutting

hand. Do NoT cut outa pattern witb pinking ýhears; they cut away too much of the sеаm allowance. Save them foт finiýhing ýeams and fol decoTative wогk, cut elactly 0п the cltting linc. MaTginE latt away аý you cut, This gives the corrcctamount of *еаm а]lоwапсе,nd .яsе-

cut ШlТfi фе labric 8Iаiп. Аrюrrs printed оп ýeam lines of Simplicity Patteтnв poiпtin the diTection that is Фrй the gmin. Whеп no агrоw арреg,гз, it makes по difiеrепс€ in i{hich di.ection you cut.

.|t..ttý

шrt ai. Thiý mаkеs then еаsi€r to !€. and Ьp3 tbe ýеаm allowance intact.

,l

Uhеп interfacingpieces hаче сOlлеlý t0 hе fumed (eollaTE, счtrs, etc.), tIim off согпеr аý sооп

as eut out, about Уа" inýide the point. This eliminates bDlk when tuming.

ale laid 0n а fold, ýuch аý а соuаI oI ,l bodice {rопt ог back, make а tiпу Snip oI notch at both ends of the fold edge. This maтks th€ centeт and mаkез it eaýieT to mаtсh accuвtely to the piece to which it is to ье ioined. Do the ýаmе whеп счttiпя interfa.ingý. (зее о, above,) чrhеп piвces

whcn intorfacing is t0 Ь. cut from 0пr of garmrnt patterп piecбs, Suchas acollar,

tte

tryto

place the pattem on the inteтfacing with the sameзide upaý itwillbё when cutting the gaTment mateтial. Тhеп leave thё раttёrп pinned to the inteгfacing when it is plaeed on the gаrmепt labric {оr cutting. ThuS, whеп the pattem iý геmочеd. the unit iý already aýsembted - the inteTJacing with the piece оп which it iý to Ье used.


mаrkiпg fabric for сопstrшсtiоп Дll conýtruction ýymbols

(ýее them on page

12) should

яаrmепt pieceý srе cut and bejore the patteTn

methods of mаrkiпg

-'-

chalk апd piný

drcssmakrr'ý traciпg р.ре| Gе2 page 25

i";;;f|;;,i.;;

{,_l. J,_,,,-",1,

_.r*rХiф4,1z.=,'

-;;,,э-r-)

J-u,r-,q

o""lz>

a--t"-Z-.a)

Place Diný thтouch Dаt[егп and both fдЬгiс to ьо mаrуеа, о-!,+-'l' tuy"ru on "уrnьой Foltl рsttеш back ; mдrk alongside of piKs.

/'-,l'

l

Gmefal ingtrlletioлý lli Uýe а сопlrаstiпg eoloI bul light епоUgh so

llllt wilt not "Иоw tЬrоugh thin mаtегiаL Твсе очеI Symbols with а tTacing wheel,

(See Equipment, раgе 3). o1uýe dull edge of а tаЫе knife. Use а llrleт !gsцЦq.,!щk!цs ýtraight lines, such as daтts. MaIk dotз vit} an х. Do not ЬеаI down toohaтd: uýe just enough рrеýsчI€ to make а light line,

Цlg h;-,/,t-a, I ппdеt lowPr \феt

Ма*;па doubl, lh;сkпрss.J

Atl construction symbolý. 2 Епds of seam lines. (This gives an accurate meaýuIementfol placing the sеаm guide оп your machine. Lower needle into maтked Аеаm lile апd ýet seam cuide againýt fsbTic 1

edeie.)

рч( tгsс;пg paper Jsc. лд чааi!ц L,ZЗ cuTvedýeam liп€ý, if stitchingan even seam of fabIic, Place апоthеrй ecela.ce iLоФп- Jаr..|-,2.| оп curveý is difrculi. ebpeen раttеrл and uрр".l"у." oi-tub.i", arb Lg single thicbness ot flrbфc Place tтacing рарет ],yith itý maTkina side against wrcпg side of fabтic. tailor'ý tacftý

Тh€ point of а daTt wheTe stitching lines meet. This makeý а viýiЫeguide to t}e endof thё d,Tt whеп thё material fu folded fоr

/r

ýtitching.

double thread, take а Бmаll stitch throuah patterl and both fabric layeтs, leaving lопg end.

with long, unknotted

з 4

:)!р :.hreadg belweqn,a|a fli lеачiпg tufts of thrеаd-'Ъоth fаЬriс pieceý/ /

5 sерАгаtе fаЬгiс layerýl

l,a-!L,;'d

3 &..lr_ц al"& o-J.> 2 /"аз*- "7 Э-a.!---L-4- еr_.а4).2 /.ZЬ,-э j|+

r"rЩ,,;БJ,л+

to mаrk right side of fahric riФt side 0l fibTic Symbols like buttonhole оr pocket locations are needed оп the flgt' side of the fabric. Fiтвt, mark оп the wrong side; then baste-Btitch ovel these maгkings. От hand-baste йth ffne needle if 1hё fabric mау showmarks after stitching iý гёmочеd. t0 mагl

)7-"-1-1--.


daЁs Dartý ате uзe.l to help mould the gaIment fabтic to fit the body. Most darts mау Ье stitched frоm point to wide end от wid. €пd to point, wbicheveT iý еаSiеr for you. But the point must tаpel to nothing; theтe ýhould Ье no "bubble" at the end. DaTtý ýhould Ье shaped Ьу pressing oveT а Tolrnded ýur{ace ýuch аý а tailoT's,b,em. charted ь€low are the vaTious tyDeý of darts апd how to handle them. шhеrе used

patterп symh0l

dart type

shaight

а

D.ёss воаiФ Front

curred

тrпdетд.m of о,ё.ыопsе

ь

а outvaтd

ь inward

Ne.kline (Ф]ren th€rе iз no shочld€rdа.t) вас]<

Iёakliпr

гл

l

l

il l i dOцtlе loiпtEd

ll

l

ll

,

i

Dreýseý without Bsistline от {ith drоDрсd wai8tline

l

l

l l

sпug]у Fiitea вlоu6€g

а

I dart-tцck

t

L ав


.rPs7 тяrNсs лrЕs"

the l.thread method 0l stitchiпg dartý This method leaves по thread enalý to Ье secuTed at the daTt point. It makeý s smооtЬеI point and is especially gooal fог outsicle alaTts Such аý ale often uýed at the ýkiIt waiýtline. о Remove spool thread but teave it thrcaded th}ough the rest of the machine. Ь Thrcad needle with bobbin macbine 'l€€dr€ it thTotlgh еуе in diTection ор?оsrr€ to that in which the thread usually goe8, с Pull thlеаd, paEýing the bobbin threed to а little mоrе tha,Il twice the daTt tength and knot it to Bpool thTesd, d wind all the extв thread back onto the spool. е Stalt at point of daTt and Btit{h, hоw t0 pless

how t0 maka

2. stibb on s]anted lineg,

1, пold oncёlteт lin€. Pin.

r Hnriz.nt,l D,тtз

DovN.

2. veTtical D,Tts

З

Tie thтеаJs at Inint.

1- l.old оп center 1ine.

2 stiftn

Pin.

oncuwed]ineý,

1

s]ach thIODgh centeт nffo)d,

З, Tio thread9 at pUint,

тоwsпl cente, of sатпепt,

3, Tlpor to поtЪjпg

l.

Fold on c€ntertine.

аС

bottom,

stitch on glзпt€d linoз.

Pin,

li

2, Р, еБs tUward garnent сепtе..

t

l

ц

I

t.

l l

l

I

I

a

l 3, Tie lhrеаds at both endý.

то}дrd сепtе. of сдImепt.

1. Fola on centeт lin., Pin.

tt I

stit

h

lrол .arrow

end

i

.l

l llt I

I

stitch acrossvide cndto fold,

_ DnяTs


seams & sеаm finishBs от stIetched choose the sеаm best suited to the fabric and to its рlасе оп the gaтment, то avoid рuсk€r€d ýеацý.s!9ФlД9_ý9.wЦs_ц4,9hiпе tensiob If the machine hаý no Ееаm width gtide marked оп itý bed, use the seam gauge to keep seams ечеп, РrеSý seams aS уоu wolk, Turn cloýed seams in the ýац9 dircction at both епds. clip cuNed sеаmý at inteTvals before pTesýina.

saam.The most соmmоп ofall sеаmý and 'lаiп the Ъasis of mапу оthеr type ýeams. It аЬо is made with rcgulation stitch (ýее pasie 28) and iý uýed in ell рагtS of а aaTment. whёп ЛЬе tаЫЬ ;s Яrmtу яочеD алd does по1 гачеl, { ог when made in gаrmепts whеrе thр inside Lis lined, no extra finiýh is needed,

eased ýеаm.

doшtle t0[.stitchGd sram.

often uýed

on

tailoTed

gаr.lnёпtý аý а decoтatrve ппLsл от Iоr геiпfошеmепt. Stitch sеаmапdрrеýý ореп. Оп outside, ýtitch close to both sides of sеаm line. шлdalstitchrd ýеаm. l]sёd for aTtMhino а facing |о а garmcnl, Msde like а Lop-ýtilc}edД ýеаm; but wh€n constTuction is completed, 0 the stiLching doeý поt show оп the right ýid.. Stitcb seam and рIеýý towaId Jacing. Оп outside, stitch through facing aid ýеаm a]lowances. When facing is prcýsed to inside. 1hе understitching alýo гоllý to inýide,

Shouldeж аrе а frequent tocation

of this tюe sеаm, WЬL!де sеаm is stight]y lопg€I than the оthет, hold thе_Ццg9lýЦlg toward you and pi11 at inteпsls be{ore stitching. or plrt in an еаsе thTead on the seam line. (See page 26

for Ease infoгmation.)

wilt Ье in the back ýhoulder ýеаm. Match the notches and ]Б:Match the pointý wheтe the sboulder sеаm lineв сгоss the аrmhоlе and neckline seam lines and pin, Pin-in the еаýе between the notches. Stitch_ easing а shoulder seam. The еаSе

lrепсh зааm. tlsed folIine undeпeaT. inJants' and sоmе childтeл's clothes and on sheeT lзЕ&s_с.Lф_зд.9дЕдФ. О\, olLbide ol gaTment, ýtitch seam %" fIоm edgeý, TTim close to Stitching. Рrёýв ореп on 'rýrdе ys" crease on stitched tine. Then stitch Jrоm сгеаýе. Thiý coveтý the rаw edaeý.

!аll!lШLý!ад. Shirt Beams o1ýearns of shiTt

type blouýeý аге uýually of thiý tур€. AIýo

toD-stitch.d sеаm. Stiф!з-рцjд-ýеgцi-рI9ýq both ýеаm аllоwапсеý to опе ýidе;j!gд!

thlочаh рIе9sЪd seam atlowance.

'l}rе term "top-ýti!rh:' mау alýo Ь used d€ýignate-Tпe stitching oft€n done on oubide of а galment Jоr deco.ation.

''а

sаIrц9Фý.

Q!

sагдlэltýti

aof

ý.сs2lýlсgздd-thý"8адrrдlл4й, IJ it is ап q!у!9!эз!g!11-цэ!ээ!"ф9j19!!э. рtезs tоwаId the gаfmёпt; if oi.týrde, towatd the slёеrе- Tfim the zrdeT seam ,itоwдпсе йlr. Тurп га\r еdgё of upper sеаm очёr 'IоwапсF tTimmedяideandtop_stitch close tоturпеdеdяе.

аd4


how to stitch seams 'rolling, USed_chiefly on Shеег.tпЦЦý, Stitch and tlim а plain Seam, Then Iо1l the s€аm between .'thumb апd JоrеfiпяеI and catch it to the Seam

line 1{,ith Smal1 slanted stjtches очеr the loll.

t ;l,|(-:--?-,,.*ti\ х х ,{ 1\

.' crossed seams occuT when two раItS of а gаImепt meet, such aS the uпdеmlm and зl.а:!. s.ams Stit.h the ý.rhs о{ th. trvo цеl9l !цз1 _1l9_,to !9 joined,nd рг€sý open.

StjtсЪ

lh. sorm that сfоssеs.

PIesS second Sеаm open оI to опе Side. whеIе the sедms meet. tгim the edges of опе Sеаm аý Shоwп.

bias seams in sheer labrics. ТЬ pTevent the "dTarving" that sometimes occuтý. pin от _l hasteto tissue oanel, thetцoedgestobe ] joined, Stitch Sеаm. Теат away the tissue. парреd fabric to рlаiп iabric. Wогk with napp€d ,Surflco ?rр. Pin oI baste the plain Jabfic to

._......._ _;:._.

_..

__1

j]

'-.''.."/ catch.stitclting, Used on mateIials tbst Tavel от whеге conýtant friction might cause fйying. Aiso оп fuI fablics апd iaminated fablics So the ýeim edge will not Iо]l, Stitch seam and tгim опе seam аl]оwапсе. PIcsS seam toward

the tfimmed side and cateh-stiteh the lntrimm*d,ide о!рr il. \ гoI,гal.h-S til,,h, See ]]аяе 99.)

the naDped matelial. Stitch With th€ Dlant

fabt_ictp!ёImost.

to finish seam edges !-i!'1ЦsJцs!9ý!-ддф _{9J-.Iццц9дjдr!9!ý -+il "1 1цФ &ццL сдФф]_fзl2цq*

р|ццс-Sц.!з_!]sд__qrц_fu д!__t_9Е!щ.". Stitch sеаm. Then tlim edges ýith pinking ýлеJIs ano рrрSs оDел

overcasting.

u Jabтic is {iгmlу

ý,очеп but blrs

а tепdепсу to ravel, очегсаstiпg п,ill help рrечепt laveling. Fjach Seam edge mау Ье ovelcast separately oi; dcpend]ng on the gаImепt construction, tog,ctheT. (Sce page 99 fоr ovelcasting stitch.)

that tend to гavel. Еп(]аsе еасh e.i,{e of the ..am in oi.ls,ар",,.i,cl ilgltrлJgl U" l}г*е Lh;сI'пс."с,.lI sexms xre to Ье Dre"sed to опе Side, both ed8eý ýhould Ьо bound togethel.

tlrning and stitching,A finish foT seamý in unlined coats and jackets of iight to m€dium weight fаЬгiсs апd fabIics that Iачеl. Тuш ultdФ the гаW edgcý of the seam allowances and stitch ctose to the edge. (

dOшhle.stitchiпg. Good foT Shееf JabTicS.

stitch thё sеаm: then make а secoBd Tow of ýtitching 1Ъ" fIоm]!ЦgqцLIЦ!Ц!!9j9ец

rlloв,in.. Triп

seam .]ose to sесопd stitthing. ( AlSo see page 92 for ý€аms

t0

tп galments of light$,eight fаЬгiс, in unde1,lveal, and Sometimes at almholes,

th€ fuIncd Seam edges mа},Ье Stitched togetheI .rnd then plesýed to опе side.


I

making а blouse thc t)asic collýtl,!,]iloл l:'' а scpxtai,e }rouse, хоп kпоп,t]lё batic construciiO]i of thc bodict] 0I а.]r|s., 'Гhiý de onstIntitnt ls lrазi](t on r m.dified shirt siy]e ý,ith conleltible (]olini Lhnt iits t]€апt;{u]]у iцtо practicl]ly e!.Tyone's aгtllolr.. Оihег t,Ypts ()f.ol]al,S and ýlеечеs

If

t_:j

yoLI kдо1,

vilt

Ьс Iопп.l оп pageý ij0 Е: an.l 81-87, ,t cottoл blond.loth has Ьсе Ltз.d

in ihe coпstr!ctioл.

Iп i.he dcmoлýrratiorr {-irat Tc]io!r!, ihfead that conttasts iyith thc c(noI of thc fдьliс nas Ьсеп пir€d so thc stitijtte_ч ý,ill Sho\,!, cleal]y in the pho',Ilgrilhs, The пагks ma,ll, with tlгеSsmri(еr"s tlacjng рлреr l1Iе also hеятiеf thrn лоrпlll to Ье casl]t- ris]bie.

,

mаkiпg Ьlочsе

!1


f-*

"-""," "л""",

Аltеr cuttlng out the ыоusе

pieces, mark the сепtеr front and back, the front fotd liпр, ihn dагls, lhP bunonhole l,л,а'iопs, thе steeve,top, the dots on Side of зlеечеs and аImhоlеs, the s]ash line оп the sleeve and the sFam line рпd5. If you лаlе difncullI ,.'.l"h;ng accuйtety on сurчеý, alýo markthe neckline sеаm liп€,(Fот How to MnTk. see раgе 95,)

front шпit Stay-Stitch the neckline including thс fтont {acjng extension on the Sеаm line fгоm Sboulder to сепtег front, Stay-stitch the shouldelý flom neckline to armbo]e, R2stё mrгk fhp.enfef front lines and locations of pocket апd butLonho]es.

Make the tlпdеrаIm darts (See p.tges 36-З7] апd pтess do fil. Шake Teleaged dalts at waistline. gtitching from the паIl,о\1,ег to the ýidel end and thеп acтoss the lvid€ ond, Press torTard the centel,.

PIess uпdеI the sеаm flont facin8 extension

,пd,t

]Ъе shoDldeT.

TIim оlт the seam inteгfacin€a

,

of the fl,ont

on the

l


I tBE

ЕхрЕR| млкI]s

i,

7

&1)-.L

,'U--+---,--),,--,4)л-/.l,,.

tu,,

Z)-'с

collar unit

L;.эj

.

oj,-az,o,/

ilфл.- /aJ,r-

'-r)2_эlr,o1

14Дтim оtr tne (пгпеrr 0{ the соIlаг lrлterfacing to abnut r r" bEyulld the { line, lТhiч wil] nlakF tЪе }roiлtS less bu]ky LwhFп the .Ullаг jS iurпе.1,

15

)

Stitch tbX(teTfacin ýeam line of the unnotched edges. in direction of arfows ;п photo,

Stitch

(When the intclfacing is stitched to the collal. instead of the co]lai facing. the jnterfacing will hide the sеаm еdяез So they i!jl] not shoц thгUuцh on the finished col]al-]

",м

а+- _l,>, !Jп-дJ/,r J+

16

2-,z-, _,е -"--и 4

_,lf,l_/.,:J,,-.,,n -.ю,-<.<,/-,т,-а

"' '| ' r

a4.r_L}-_,le_,. . ,сд

!.+о, Dc

Withl,ight sides [оg*Ъ*," _h'_T .tltch спllаг faLiDs io соllаr,'lелчiля the О

notehed edge ореп. Sholten the machine Stitch to 20_25 to the jnch for %" еасh side о1 any colneтs. (тhеsе short Stitcheý act as IeinfoIcement fог the согпегs ýhen they аrе tulned.) то layel the Seams, tгim the intelfacinя close to the sеатп liле, the ,jдrеlg-]ý:!ai_dезпd-tьi"-]]at sеЪm colьr fасiлs Sеаm аllо$,алсе to 1r" M,ide.

|abric fal.|s ol |Iаgs, tlim collal %" wide and cot]al {acing ]),i", At both sides о{ atl соInетs, trim both seam a]]owanceý to about 1.16". CliD the collal сuIче iп v-Shapes. 11 t},е

з,ь,z,а-"э 17

9.

'''

И llJ, I- L"Tа Pal,-:l агр.dg",

Т" gire thp turплd ",,llai

|

ffгSt pтeýs the layeIed Seam ореп. Тhеп

p.ess Ьоlh ]Jye.. lоsагd ltP , пlilг

18

/о.;,,

on the oniside, top_ýtitch thrоu8h соllаI facing and preýsed Seam lауегS close to the seam ljne. Thjs top-Stitching wi]I hold the sеаm iine s]ightly to the пndeIside so it will not show whеп the соIIаI iý completely turned and Dressed,

ffi=з=-,

,-,-ФiЁffi

l9 Fin;Sh t!Ining th€ со]]т at tho pointý.

1vоrk the point up gently fгоm the inýide as faf as poýýib]e, (А flat bodkiп iS good fог tbiS, ) То makc the соrпеr iharл. inser1 а

,".t',, :: ,., .d,,T ,. -'Е;, r, ,;, ; i.,j ? 'i... -L-.:_',

r -.i.il

-_,j:. :. -: i:n,

--:ц

t

i:.

i!.

frв :rг ...тй $* . j::tq lЕФ *ill,rt -* ýiЁ4,п ý .!&!,Ь aa

,_

T

;I

. ..Ь-

:.

j

S )--..

-. -l,,l

l2,

,: ,"

е.п

!)-./

z,- 2r


20,21

jоiп co|lar uпit to песkliпе 20 Clip the blouse necktine to the stay-Stitching.

о.

гF o,1I -1,1e, pin he соI.iг ]о.,,, or'O iп l| ||о, :1.1 . о lI r L0, \- песk cJg-. maI,,hing сспtеI backs and the shoulder sеаm mаrk оп the соl]лт to the ýhoLtlde[ seam of the blonse. j

21 Млtсh th€ lotch оп tho flont eilge of both соllаI facilrg a}d col]al to the same notch оп the neck edge, and pin. T'o hold in place ýtitch the со]tаг andlacingto the front neck edge on the seam ]ine fоI about |r''.

22,23

},.

\

22 TuIn thc fтont facing extenýion to the ozr.si.le а]опg the fold ]ine, ovel the соl]аr, апd pin both facing and collal to front пссk edEe, At the ends of the flont facingý (see alroi,s in photo], clip thc necktine scam a]]o$,ance thloltgh со]]аг and blouse to sta, ýtitching. 2з Stitch the entile neck edge in опс continuous seam. beillE caTefLll not to catch jn the пррег collal асгоss the back. TIjm the seam.

flont facing to the insido and pless, Pless the back neck sеаm zp. Roll co]laf to еýtаЫiýh the ]ine i,.hеIе the collaf ýеаm аuоi,апсе ýhoujd Ье tui,ned under. prcýs the

24 Тuтп the

seam a]]o\Tance undel on thjs liпё

21

25

Stjtch or slip_stitch the edge of the collaT back ovel the neckline ý€аm. Tack the ftont facing to the Shоuldсr ýеаm,

26

Join the sjde seams of the blouse.

21

Finish the loweт еdgе of thе Ыоusе in of tho foltowillg lvays:

опе

if the fabric does not rачеI or 'lay from thе гаw aMake а line of ýtitchjng %', edge. Pink the edge, ThjS finish prevents а ddge uпdеr the skirt. bмake two rows of stitching, onc about %'' and опе at З,i" from the law edge. This, too, prevents а ridge, if the fabric ravels or flays

Stitch biaS gеlm tape flat to the ]оwеr edge, TuTn the edge пlопg thе top of the tape and stitch (оr hand hеm, if ргеfеIrеd) to the blousa, ь Тurп uпdег l./_1" on the гаiч edge and stitch a]ong the tuтned cdg.. С TuTn uпdеI У1" оп the faw edae. ТuIп аяаiп аý а hem and stitch ог Ъапd sёw а

15


F Ё ,"" u*."o"

"o*u"

,

sleeve чпit 28 Set the machine foT about 10 stitches to the inch and make а юw of ease_ýtitchinя on the seamline afound the top of the ýleeve between the notches. Meke а second гоw Уа" fIom the fiгst within tne sеаm A]]owance_

slceYe орепiпg

29 cut

а ýtTip 2Уз" wide Ьу 4У2" 1ong foт the

sleeve opening Jacing. Turn and ýtitch uпdел l,r" on lhe loDg ýides and [op end, With right ýideE together, match centeт of facing to center о{ ýIeeve opening. Pin.

I I

г,' з0

Wofking оп the sleeve Eide, ýtart at the

bottom and, using 20 to 25 stitcheý to th€ inch. ýtitch аtопя the stanted lin€ to the Doint. Take one stitch acIoss tlre point and Stitch down the second slantedtineto thebottom. Stitch а second time alound the point, staTting and ending About %" below the point, Slaýh {Iоm bottom to point thTough centeT of steeve апd facing. 31

Рrеss the ýеаm and top_Stitch the lacing Bs descIibed in ýteps 1? and 18. Тhеп tuTn the facingto the inside and рIеss. Blind-tack the upper edge to the sleeve.

Nore] when making а gill's sЛirr, ýее instTuctions for putting sleeve into th€ mап's sDогts shirt on раgе 80.

32 Stitch the ýIeeve ýеаm and prcss ореп. Machine-gather loweT edge between notcheý. fristband

з

Рге!s чпdеr theseam аIIоwапсе оп thelona unnot hed edge о' the wnstband. Pin фе п?Лl зidе of thе band to th€

d?r,,id€

Р{

of tЪ€ .leeve. Езtсhlлg notches, ср rb. r&aýr,*Ьс.з to бr stitcb.

'tйЕfflhdЁrЁl

з0

j

l

г,"

l

t j

i

i,ili,1 z-;:==(a) -р


J^\,лl 35 With Ijяht sides together. fold thе x,fiStband in half lengthlvise.

Stitch the епф and tlim the sеаms, Т!Iп.

36 Тор stitch the preýscd seam al]owance of the Ьапd очФ the wlist ýеаm, continue top-Stitchinя aTound the entile band.

jоiп slBeve unit to armhole 37, з8

37 With ЫоLlSе ф,опg ýide out and steeve IigD' зide out, s]ip the s]eeve into the arnrnole, dgit sid€ý together. Pinthe maтk at the sleeve top to thе зhоutdеI seam. Match and pin notches. Match апd pin the dots оп the frопt and ]rack of the s]eeve to the соl rеsропdiпg dots оп the flont and

ьлсk of the ыоus€, This matchiпg djBtributes the ease pTopelty,

38.

Pltll up fтom both ends the easc thIead fTom the bobbin unti] the ýIeeve just fitS the аrmhо]е. Sесuге the endý of thе thTead.AdjUst ihe ease evenly both sides of the sleeve top,leaving 1i" each ýjde of the Sleeve top plain.

з9

Pin oI baste sleeve iп агmhоlе. еаsiпя belov the notches, and stitch. stitch а

ýecond tjme at the undemfm betlveen the notcheý, ys" to 14" {гоm the ffIst low withitl the sеаm а]lоwапсе. TIim the uпdетдrп seam cloвe to the Second stitchina

-а;-------a-*,,4" fiffis{nlff, between the not.hes.

a,-*n

!2|,2,

40 Steam_pTess to Smooth out the едýе. Тhсл pTeýS the ýеаm liяht]у tоwагd th€ ýl€eve. 41 Make machine buttonholeý ror hдпdworked опеs, if pтeferred) in the right front and in the wristbands, 42 Se1,,bUttoný on ]elt frопt апd wristbands, Sew on а sпар belolv the bottom buttonhole, 43 Make а thread loop at the necklinc coтneT of the light {Tont and sew а tiny button оп thе ]eft fтont neckline Undel tЪе соIlаг.

!r


making а skirt If you know the basic conýtfuction of а ýераrаtе skilt, you also know the basic constluction oJ the skirt of а dress. Тhе SkiTt pattern used in this demonstTation is а grасеful 8_gоrе Style, becoming to almost ечегуопе.lt closes with azipper at thе le{t side and а pocket iS ýet into th€ гight qidё a"im Ti is FuiIsыс гоr liPhr аrd medium weight wootenв, sturdy cottoný and velvete€n. and is sbown in " medium weight wool. In the demonstlation that Jollows, thIead that contlasts with the colol of the Jаьгiс Ьаý been used, sо the stitches wi]] ýhow plainly in the photographs. Ma|kings made with dressmaker's tIacing рареI ale hеачiег

for the sэrпе теавоп.


the Rеfоfе геmочiпg the раttегп from dots .ut-out DiecРs, mагk thе po(ket lосдtiоп ЬмlL апd е on the ýkirt ýiale front and sidё po(ket pieeeý matching location dotý оп the line €пdý, themselveý. Аьо msтk all sеаm

front чпit 1 Slay-ýlitch the waiýiline

оГ the 1wo

ýkirt

fTontsfтom Side edge to centeтedg€, fтom the center Jrопt ýeam, stitching bottom to top. Рrеss the seam ореп,

-4oin

Stay-stitch the ,aistline ol of lelt tronts. Аlво ýtay-stitch left edge яidе-fтопt above notch, ýtitchinEl Join the ýide-trontý to the froDtý, ореп, from bottom to top. Ртеýв the sеаm

back чпit Stay-Stitch the waistline of the you did the fтonts,

ьмЬ

зs

stsv-stitсh thе waiýtline of the side-backs. the Ieft Alý; stяy-stitcъ the lelt edge of ýide-back above the поtсh,

Join the IeJt side-back to the left back and Ьдсk, ;he Tight side-bмk to the гight Do пot ioiф the center bach sеапL,

right Irопt Join the rigЫ back unit дпd the from the_ unit оп thе side ýеаm, stitchiDg mаrkF hotlom аý far аз the small dot which to the bottom of the pocket, Back-ýtit,h rcinJoтce the end of th€ ýеаm,

l9


слЕлlЕNтs л sKIBi

pocket шпit

9,10

with Tiaht

sideý togetheт sIId mдtehing the notches, pin опе pocket ýection to the back opening ёdgе and the second to the front орепiпg еdg€. 10

Stitch from the ýmall dot to the top in а З/в" seam. (See thе disgTam.)

tl

l1 With

Tight ýideý together дпd matching the notches, stitch the t\Po pocket ýectioný together. staTt at the bottom of the З/s'' ýеаm ýtitched in step 10, securing thтesd Ьу Ъack-ýtitching or tying endý. Stitch sIочпd bottom and up to top of pocket in а 5/я" sеsm.

12 Рrеss pocket tоФагd the fтont, ргеýýiпg ýkiTt frопt along ýеаm line. (This Ыings the ýеаm wherc t}e pocket waý ioined to the skift front to the inside so it will not ýhow.]

'3

Baýte the pocket to th€ fTont waistline edge, matching the ýmall dots. (when the waistband is put on lаtец the top of the pock€t ivilt Ье ýtitched into the waistband

рчt iп the zipper Thele iB mоrе than опе way to put iп е placket zipper. other methodý are aiven on pageý 108 to 110. Ехрегimепt with them and then сЬоо€е thе rnGthod еsýi€зt fol уоч.

ta Joiп the lert l).cl uдit to t}€ ftФt |rпi! .titсЬiдs lrФ ьoatФ to roa.L B.Д{it to

r.irrcE.l lL..a B-*l

lrtJa*-h-ЁD-

tfih__--

lL

l


ff, F,

ffi::'n. ;. .]_ rjtl.:i

15

li.-,.,',i1,'l

18

11

10

РгеsS entiтe ýеаm ореп. Attech zippei loot to the machine. Ореп the zippel and place it loce doшL оп the back s еаlп аllоl,апсе опL! with the edge oJ the metat chain at the Seam line. Stitch zippeT tape to seam allowance along the Eide of the metal chain from bottom to top.

Now close thе zippel апd turn it Jaee up, ThjS wil] cause а паIrоw Jold to fоrп in the back sеаm allowance. Рrеss thiý fold andthen ýtitch it to the zippeт tape close to the edge.

'lnfi

zlppef |аее d,оlL,п flat on the ýеаm so it extends onto front sе9m allowance. stitch thTough ziррег tape, sеаm allowance and' ýkiтt flont асгоss the bottom and un Jгопt ýide close to zippef chain. PTeýs.

LiJt the back sеаm allowance and

Temove

the machine basting. PTess the placket on the outside. Join centeT back зеаm.

waistband 19 РIеss under the sеаm allowance оп thе lопя unnotched edge oJ the waistband,

20,21

20 Pin the ?0fol9 side of the skilt to the figh' side of the notched edge oJ the band, maиhjng поl.hез, cenieIý and sideý, and easing the skirt to fft.

21 Stitch thё seam and рт€ss it zp towaтd

the band. Also pтess up the sеаm allowance оп the extension of the back end of the band. Tfim the sеаm.

22

With Tight sides together, fold waistband in balf, lenathwiýe. Stiteh i th€п trim the endý. Tum Ьапd right side out and рrеsý.

2з Tbp-stitch the preýsed loose edge of the Ьапd очег the waistline ýеаm. Lsp band епds and fasbn rrith hooks and еуеý.

51


r

hеm 24 Have ап ечеп lепфh flom the flоот marked оп the ýkift, Тuгп the bottom edge to the inside on the mаIkёd lin€ and presý the edge.

25 Маrk ап even depth for lhe hcm and trim оtrрч.еsа fabric.

26

То eliminete ýоrп€

tlim

of the bulk at the seams, otr ys" from the sеаm allowaneeý frоm the hem foid to the еdяе.

27 Pin th€ hеm in position and steam-p.ess the Iаw edge to shrink out аý muсh о{ the excess fullness as poýýibte. Then finish the hеm in опе of the foltowing wдуý:

f0. wool0r syIth.tic ierýar, fiаIпсl, firm fieary laЫicý

Make а row of ýtitchinя about %" frоm the edge. Pink the edge and catch_stitch it to the garment.

Апоthег method is to baýte the hеm in place aJtel pinking. Then tur]r back the edge about Уа" sпd catch loosely to gагmепt fгоm uпd€Еidе of hеп with а running_hemming stit h. (Illuýtтsted.)

l0r heavy,0оlепý, cottons, rayols, and looýely шOч!п ol laveling latricý

Reduce.any Jullness in the hеm edge. Then ýtitch biaý oI straight sеаm tape to the edge апd Ыiпd-hеm the tape edge to the skiTt.

Апоth€I method, if ýtraight tape is used, is to tчгп back the stitched_on tape and catch the edge oJ the hem fabTic to the gаrmепt with а toose, rчппiпg_hеmmiпg ýtitcb. The tape thuý соч€тý the ltеmmiпя.

lol light or m.diцп ,.igfit cottoпs, fuпl, ,оч.п ýillý and ýyntietics тчm.uпdег lз'оtl the hеm edge, usiпя about l0 stjt heý to the inch. ýtitch сlо€€ to the "dat, 'qad.d '.r. Фrr*a!

ТЬ

t }.

|-fril.-] -

Ь.п ..!а

P.ru up

rtrEd tltl . Fs .t ilt f.!,

.a_ar***} r5*

ор tn€

Tt_

{Er.*

*arffht&r.*-_r

r.


mаkiпg а drBss yоч hачё lёаrпёd the baýic conýtmction of а Ыочзе fTom pages 41to 4?, so you already know the basic conýtruction oJ аdгеss ьоdiсе. Гтоm pages 48 to б2 you have alýo lealned the baýic conýtructibn of а skilt, sо you now know thё ЬаЁiс construction ofa drеss ýkirt. TheTe ате only two mоге ýtерs in m.king а dгеsý: Joining thе skiTt and bodice at the

waistlin€ and putting in the ziрреI.

Thiý demonstlation {eaturcs а simDie, basic frtted dгеsý with sljm skiIt . , , the kino l}ral.an ]ook "dreFFed чр" or ''dressed dоwл''. depending on its fabric апd the accessoTies wоп with it. lt is also the type you сап make чр in ап iпехрепýiче mateTial, such аý muýtin, to use to check оп fittinя oI to teaTn what, if any, adjustments you should rnake in а pattern beforc cutting


,rraEs , 6rлйЕл?s -

.{ Dltrss

First make the bodice unit, leaýing сепt€r

back seam ореп, Аррlу the neck facing; thеп nake the sleeves and set into аrmhоIеs.

Next make the Skirt unit, stay-stitchiпg thе B,aistline and leaving center back Seam open

CIip the skilt wдiýttine to the stay-Stitching. ( This step is not песеsБаrу in aveтy slim skiTt Ьчt shочld alwAyý Ье dопе in one with а flaтe.

Right Sides together, рiп skilt to bodice, matchina сепtеIý, side seams and notehes. Stitch the seam with skiTt sidе ?ip, еаsiпg th. ckiTt to tЪр hodice

PIesE the waiýtline sеаm up, tоwагd the

Оп outside, top-Stitch cloýe to the seam line, if dезiгеd_

2


.. . demonýtlated in а softly flared skiгt witb side placket. First, take youT waist meaýuTement.

ап alternate metлod

IJ the bodice is а fftted one, add to yollT waist meaýulenent %", which iý the ease аllоwапсе iп the pattem. Then in the stepý that follow, the term "waist mеаsurеmепt" mеапs this total meaýuтement. IJ, hоwечеr, th€ bodice iý ыоuýеd, donot add the Уа" but use youт actual waiýt

After clipping ýkiTt waistline, cut

а piece

ýeam tape about 2" longel than уочг

of

waist measufemёnt-

3

Frоm опе end of tape, mеаsuте % уочI waist meaýulement, Pin this point to centeT back оп wrопg side of skiтt with longel end of tape pointjng to right. Frоm the сепtег back of the skiтt. measuтe on fhё tape one_half уочI waiýtmeasurement. Pin thiý point tothe centel frопt of the ýkirt.

Pill tbe tape to the Tight half

о{ the

skiIt

between the сёпtег fгопt and centel back, easing the SkiTt to the tape, (The ease will usually Ье fo[nd in the fгопt.)

Fold back the ]oose end of front tape towaгd Iiaht side веаm; mеаsurе exactly to side seam апd mаIk tape. Рiп mаIk to left side s€олi arй€. Do ihe same on looвe tape at

tape jп place; baзte_stitch to skirt. cut ofi any tape т€mаiпiпg at left ýide.

6 Рiп €пtirе

Join ýkiTt to tjodice as in flrst method, omitting the top-stitching.


mаkiпg а child's dress FoI tittle giI]s' dresses or adult gaIments

Such as smocks, bousecoats, ýpoTts ýhirts, .t -, whеп acculate fit iý not а matteт of eтeat impoтtJnce, а nat construction method can often Ь€ utilized.

Thi8 is the method used in making the bodice of the child's dтess demonstTated in, the pages that Tollow. Boilice flont anil back AIe ioined at the shоuldеrs; tben the sleeves made апd Stitched flat to the &гmhоlе edge, joined Side s€аms and Sleeve seams are then iп one continuous stitehiп!:. whеп thele ата side seams in the skiгt as wel], the bodice flont апd SkiIt front, and the bodjce brck and skirt back са11 Ье joined at the wrstline, front and b&k seflmed at thc ghouldeтs, sleeves put in flat, and thel1 the entile side seam skiTt, bodice and ý]eeve stitched in опе operation. Fоr.lrrilу in ,hF plolUgraphq. сопlrаsIiгF fhfead has been used {от stitching, the зtitchcs hа\,с Ьееп mаd€ lопgеr, and malký made with dтessmalret's tracing рареr aIe heal,ier than nolmal,


1,2

Befoтe Tomoving the patteTn, mагk seam line ends, dаrts, dotý Jоr matchiлg, top of-s]eeve malk, buttonhote locations, fold lines. сепtеr back.

front bodice unit Stay_Stitch shouldeтs fгоm neekline to

Stay-stitch пёсНiпе оп seam line fфm shouldeTБ to center.

Make w5iýtline dагts. Prcss towaid сепtеI.

back bodice unit Stay-stitch nёcktine fTom ýhoulder to center. Make а rоw of eaýe,stitching оп shoulder sеаm line. Stit€h чDdеr %" on сепtеI back edges.

jоiпiпg front &

back шпits Jojn front and back units st ýhouldeN. e,sing thе back to fit between notcheý,

collar чпit Righr .ioes togethFr, ýriтch facings lo со]lаг sections, Leavo notched edges open. ьуег the seamý. (S€е раgё 88 foт How to Layef.) cliD the сur"чез in Y-shapeý.

Tuln and рrеss the collal sectioný.

Machine-baBte notched edges tоgеthег. Tack th€ two Sectioný tоgёthет at сёпtеr

join collar чпit to bodice чпit 10 Clip bodice neck edge to stay-stitching. Оп oltsrdr, рiп cotlar to neck edge. Place 1 Ьа k edges пГ, оllаг al medium dols Ihrl mаrk centel back. мэt h center flonts апd ptace ýmall dot on collaт at the ýhouldeT seam. Malhine-baste in place. ]2 TuIn bodice back еdяеý to outside аlопg Jo]d tiпеs to foim facinss. Baste to песk еdяе.

l

5f


тЕЕ DхрЕRl млкss 1 GлRмЕNfs-л aяIrD,s DлJss

cut а bias Strip of the dless fabric 1Уs"

wide and as long as the песk meaýuтement. оп one lопсi side, tuln undeI y4" and рIеss, 14 Rie:ht ýid€s togetheT, pin the bias ýtTip to the ncckline With rдwсdсе of biac rs" гrоm песkline edge, ersing biqs to neck. Let €пds of bias extend oveт the backlacin8s. Baste; then Stitch оп Seam tine. Trim seam; clip cu es. l5 ргеss seam towaTd bias. undelýtitch thTouEh bias and pтesýed seam опlу, close 16 Тч111 bias and back facing to inside; рIезs. Stip-Stitch the loose edeie of the biaý in р]асе.

sleeve шпit 11 10

РrеSs undeI апd ýtitch %" оп lоwег

ёdgе of ýleeve. Set nachin€ foT about 10 stitches to the inch. At the top of slеёче between the notchёs, make а Tow of ease stitches оп the sеаm line, Make а ýесопd Tov ys" fTom the fiTst within the sеаm allowance. 19, 20

jоiп sleeve шпit to bodice чпit l0 Right sides together, pin sleeve to aTmhole edge. Рlаее top-of-Sleeve maTk at ýhопlalеr sеаm. Match notcheв. Match dotý on sleeve sides with dotý оп bodice front апd back aTmholes. 20 Pull up ease thтeads lтоm both ends to adjust ease ечёпlу to fft Sleeve. Pin and Stitch, Fтоm the notches to the undeTaтm, stitch а ýесопd time %" fгоm first Tow within the seam atlowance. TIim ýеаm between поtсhеs апd uпdеIаIm close to this 21, 22

sash чпit 2l Sаrrоя]I fiзсhiпе-ьеm the long edges апd .ыеd еr& of thе sa_ýh, Gаthеr the

;:г.:rr: €.ёr .,п tbe sезm ]iп€, Р= t1:..t'!€ ..ё. !о Ь.чj,.е b&k at side ( Цt:t f,.сs ride of iз-,h ф й '-r*:+з !ра. сС Еa* Ва.:. "*}t

,


Iял д.rрдаa дАкr,s

jоiпiпg шпdеrаrm seamý 2з Right ýides togetheT, join €ntiтe чпdетаrп ýеаm fюm waiýtline to loweT edge of ýleeve.

mаkiпg the счff м Тuтп lower edge of ýleev€ to iлýide alona fold line. Pтess and Stitch in place. 25 Тчгп loweт edge to outýide. folming the cufr.

skirt front & hack units 26 Join skirt flont to ýkiTt back-and-Bide-frontý. 27 Join centeT bmk Eeam {rоm lоwеr edge to medium dot. 28 Above dot, narTowly hеm the edges, tapeгing to nothing at bottom of opening.

29 Stitch uпdег vа" оп lоwеI edge of skiTt, Меаsuт€ up frоm bottom to,wheTe the top of the hem will Ье. At а thrеаd or firо above this mеаsчгеmепt, pin and stitch on tгimmiпg Ыaid, tapping endý at centeт back. 30 TuTn uD hem and slip stitch in place. 31 At skirt waistline, make two тоwý of machine gathering (8 stitcheý to iпсh), one on sеаm lin€ and the second %" frоm first within sедm аllоwдпсе. staтt and end дt thе small dots.

32 Тurп right back edge to inýide along Jold line, foming а facing and а pleat. Baste to чрреI edge.

joining skiЁ & hodice чпits зз Ореп out faeingý at lоwеI edge of bodice back. Riяht sideв togetheT, pin skift to bodice. Match сепt€I JIonts. Place skirt back opening edges at ýmall dotв in bodice back and the otheт seams at small dots iп bodice Jтопt. Adjust gathe$ to fit; pin in ptace. Stitch. TTim sеаm and pTess up. з4 Stitch tгimmiпg ЬIаid over fTont waiýtline ýеаm Ьеtwееп Side sеаms. TuTn чпdеI епds. PrcSs bodice facings to inýid€; slip-stitch to waistline ýеаm.

finishing з5 Make hand-wolked оr machine-stitched buttonholeý in fight back. От, if deýiтed, use а zipper iп the opening, 36 Serv buttons undel buttonholes. 37 Sew а snap at песk and waistline.


whвп уOч make а GOat do it the easy wауl


mаkiпg а coat оr iacket тhе constтuction mеthоd usеd in this demonstTaiion is that of ýimptiffed, soft tailoIinsi. simpliffed sечёIе tailoring is demonstгated on pages r44 to 152.

Fот the demonýtlation. а short coat \Tith опе-рiесе upper collal - two-piece undeтcollar- а one-piece gleeve and s iined pocket

has been uýed. Тhе geneтal woTk method, howev€T, сап Ье applied to any style coat oI jacket. W'ool has Ъёеп used, but cofduIoy, lelveteen, fuT fabric оr ]reavy cotton orlinen

Го! clarjty in the photographý,

а thгead

contтasting in ��оtоr wjth the material has been used. stitches are 1опяег than поImrl, апd markingý made with drcssmaker'S tгacing рарет аIе heavieг and dalker than they Should Ье.

Веfоfе Iemoving раttегп fгоm Jabric, malk оп the wrопя side the ends of зеаm li11е3 and а]] .onstIuction details such аý daтts. the pocket ]ocation, dotý foт matching, etc. MaIk inteгfacing and flont Jacinsi with center fl.опt line. and interfaeinq Tith hDttonhole locationý.

front чпit Stay-stitch the shouldels Jrоm neck to atnhole. and аImhо]е fгоm shouldeт to uпdетаrrп, У9" frоm ihe edge, Stay-stitch

np.k]ine frоm shoulder to centeт оп ýeamline.

at point. TIim to lbout 5/s" wide but do not tгjm al] the vay to the pojnt. Use tailoт'S ham to pтess tтimmed alea ореп апd the point flat,

2 Make shouldel dаrts апd tie thrcads

61


Machine-baste thIough they Show on Iight Side

Pin inteтfncing to wtong ýide of fгont. At uрреr соrпег of ffont edge, tгim otr inteтfacing соrпеI to about %" t]ack о{

Machine-baste interfacjng to frопt %" frоm front, ýhочidег and аrmhоlе edgeý and on the sеаm line of the песk. TTim elose to stitсhiпя.

Machine b;Бte along сепtеr fгопt line. on Tight hand flопt, machine-baste along buttonhole locations. Sеw iппеr edge in place with iong Iчппiпg ýtitches.

i

t Eound buttoDholes аге uSual]y pTc{eтrcd fог B&,lcoat_. and jn(ketS and shou]d Ье made :, а :1 ::lt r'Eht front, See раgеý 100 to 103 : . ii _:, ){ai. Ii,,:!1.i I]ultonholes.) If ._,i.-.,:fi i.. l .€ !n,i, nake ,}д rJ'f -.]e;;:,.i 1af r.:-:

a!


pocket шпit Оп чрреI edge of pocket wrcпg side апd Drеýý.

Астоss wrong Side of pocket, just above Jold line. stitch а piece of ýtlaight seam tape.

s

10 Right ýid€S togetheT, pin lining to pocket, having side and tоwег edges even.

11

_-r# .i

11 TuTn uррег edge of pocket dоwп aiong fold linё oveT liпiпя, foTming а facing.

1-

12 StaTting at top of facing, ýtitch down the

side. aeloss bottom and upthe otheI side. Тгim сотпеIв and lауёт sеаm.

Тurп lined рофеt rigbt ýide out and ýlip-ýtiteh tiлing to facil1g.

14 Pin and baste pocket t() location line on flont, Then top-Stitch %" fгоm side and lоwеr edsieS, rcinforcjng Stitching at uрреr соrпеIs аý shown in inset illustration. оR afteI basting pock€t to coat, tчш to wrong side and hand-ýew in place with brck stitcheý.

63


hack uпit 15

Stay-Stitch neck]ine flom shоп]dеr to ccntoт оп Seam line. Stay_Stitch shoulderg from

neck to лrmhо]е and аrmhоlеs flоm shоu]dвг to underirnr, irom edse,

',"

16 [IPk",.hnula..,l,,l,,,, Prp.q'o{ J|J (*гtеr,

Pi_.|,d,.i.,},-п,*.\jlпl

|7

,Fпm lг, m l"{,еr edge to top. Press Seam open.

18

l\L,.l.il]..LJ,,- iп,р.'а.iля, back neck

,

цl,,1д,iJ,

from Shoulder еdgеs and on

пei]k]nre Seam '']" ]iпе. Sew

inncf.dge jп place

wjth iопg шппiпя stitch€s.

joining front & back units 19 Pjn апd Stitch Shou]dcl, bai]k to the flont, Тгjm seam line. РIеss Seams

,t


шпdеr-соllаr чпit oJ соllаI interfacing, matching Seam lines. Stitch оп ýeam lin€, Тгirпsеаm edges 1/а" fгоm ýtitehing, TIim оtr loweI сотпетý about У4" back of points

2l Lap сепtеI back edges

wheтe s€аm ]ines meet,

21 Right Sides tоgеthеI, pin and Stitch сепtеr back Seam of undef-cotlal. TTim seam and

22 Pin iпtеfiасiпя to wгопя side of uпdеIco]lar and baste-stitch neck edge оп Seam tine. Se\v in place with padding stitches аt shOWn. , Fоr апоthеr ч.гsiоп оГ Padding Stitches, see page 99 ,) when padding is completed, interfacing mау extend slightly ovel lowel edge of uпdеr-соllаг. тIim it even with collaI edge. Тhеп baste-Stitch intelfacinci to uпdеI collal at ends and outer еdяе оп seam line.

,l

l

,

jоiпiпg чпdеr-соIlаr uпit to песkliпе 2З c]ip jacket песЁ€dсiе

to stay-stitching.

24 Right sideв together, pin undel-collaI to лeckline. Match сепt€т backs, fronts and поtсh€s-

Ptace Small dots at Shouldel seams.

25 Stitch and trim the ýеаm. clip curves. clip to sta}.-ýtitching at сепtеI front. Piesý

65


facings & upper collar uпit 26 Stay-ýtitch Jrопt and back facingý on neckline ýеаm line. 21

Join {ront and backfacings atBhouldeг sеаms. PrcsS ýeams open.

28

clip neck

edge of

joinedfacings tothe

ýtay Stitching,

29 Right ýides togetheг, pin uppercollaIto facing, matching сепtет backs aid JтопЪ. Р]асе smatl dots at shouldeI sеаms.

З0 Stitch; tlim s€am: clip сuп,еý, ctip to s(ач-slil.hiпя al ссп|Аr fгопl пi fасiпя. Ргеsý seam ореп.

зl Rightýides togetheI, pinfacing

and uppeT

collar to jacket апd undel-collal. Match centel backs. center lrопtý, seamE-

зl,з2 з2 tsaste, easing uppeт collaт to fft. Stitch. m the сотп€гS; clip LачеI the seam; счr!еs, РrеSS seam towaId undeт-collaг and understitch асrоss the back оп outвide close to seam line,

t

зз Turn facing and uppel collaг to jnside and press, rolling sc.rm line

l Тц.:ё; е,.

1nFN:-':a .{aа--

I

l desired,


l0lnlng Side seams

з5 pin апd stitch side sеаms to tot}. Pless seams оФеп.

sleeve unit зБ Set mllсhiпе foт 10 stitches to the inclr. At Sleeve toD between nolcheý, make а Iоw of ease stitching оп the seam line. Make а

second rоw Уа" Jrоп first within th€ seam

Pin а 2%" wide biaý ýtlip ot intelJacing to $гопg side of sleeve t" above lоwег edge. Sew in place $ith 1опg lunning ýtitcheý,

38,39

38 Pin лDd Btitch the sleeve undelaтm seam. 39 Turn up toweT edge of 8lе€че over intedacing stтip апd sew to inteгfaciлgwith long Tunniltg stitcheS. If deýiIed, top-ýtitch У2"

fгой loweт

еdяё of sleeve.

бf


joining sleeve чпit to coat 40

Right sides tc,getheT, pin sleeve in аIпhоlе, matching notches, seams апd the dots оп the s]eev. Фiih 1.he dots оп the coat аrmhоlе.

41 Pull up both ends

о{ the bobbin ease

аrmhоlе, leaving 'bout acl,osg the top. Pin еаýе iп Dlace. So Sleeve fitS

thleads 1" flat

42 Stitch Sleeve into almhole, beginning and €пdiпg at undelaTm sеаm. At uпdеIаrm, between пot hes, stitch а second time 1'!" flоm Iirst stitching, within the seam allowance,

тrim

seým cloýe to ýесопd Btitching, Steam-shгink aS much of ease aS роssiЫе and lightly prcss ýeamto{,ard sleeve,

hеm & finishing turn facings out firt.

Тuтп чр 44 Along the rаw edge of the hеm, ýtitch оп а

bjaý StIip of muýtin. (Do not extend the muslin очеI the flont intelfacings.) Sew mчsl,л .п рJз ", t, bod}- о'jа.}Fl $'lh а ]опр running ýtitch. A]so catch down the теmаiпdег о{ the hеm with а long lunning

45

Тuгп llont {дсiпlas to jnsjde, Catch,stjtc]r il х ег j ji. eLige oi la.!lg l. h.m,


liпiпg the coat lf

},оuI pattelrl does not ha!,e sepalate lining pieces, thеп instTuctions wi]l Ье given fol uýing the frопt апd back pattems to cut the

Iining, l'otlowthese iпstruсtiопS cafefutty, making suTe to cut the back яith ап extla 7r" дt the neekline to дllоw fоr а pleat, aS Shown,

47 Stay-Stitch ]ining neck]ine. Make dalts in lining flonts, stitching only as fаг аs second dot from shou]de!. Рrеýs towald centcl,. Stay-Stitch back neckline апd make dads.

48 Join сепtеI back seams. Side, make а pleat at the centeт Ьу Stjtching 1," fIоп the sеаm ]iпе foT about 2" be]ow the neck edlie. Рт€Sý pieat to опе Side.

49 on wlопg

50 Join fronts to back at shоuldеr senms and Side seams, Stitch on sеаm line аlопg JIопt edges and neckline,

51 Press seam a]iowance оп ýtitched ]ine. clip cuпes,

52 Make Sleeves and stitch them into almhotes, clip arrnhole ýеаm atthe notches and рrеSS ореп above the clip.

5з Pless undel the lоw€I

edlies of the tining

lvith wrопg

ýides together, pin ]injпg in jacket, matching center backs and ýeams, aick seams tоgеthег loose]y, 55 Pjn lining о!еrfrопt facing, neck edges, Sleeve апd bottom hems, S]i!-stitch in place,

Nofe: wh€п making а full length coat, finish coat Ьеm and lining hеm sepalately Ьеfоге putting lining in coat. Then anchof with Frепсh tacks at seams.


ti

7Đž


mаkiпg slacks оr shoЁs The slacks mаdе in this demonstгation arc daTt-fitted and side-zippered. They аIе of medium width-neither "skinny" пог \,ideапd the sаmе construction рIосеdчте would Ье used for апу slаеkБ, рапts oI shoTts rcgardlesý of theil length and vidth. тhе Jahic used is а wool flаппеl. cottons

ýчсh aS dёпim, тауоп and iiЬёг blends would

contвsting cololthTead has

Ьееп uýed in the

construclion Ёо |hе stiicheawill сhоц,.lраr]у ; and fог the sаmе Teason, the stitches аIе lопgет than woutd Ье uýed when making the slacks.

The depth of the сгоtсh о{ slacks ог shогts iS imроItапt flom the standpoint of Ъоth comfort and аррёаmпсе. То dеtегmiпе the best depth fог you, measurc as follows:

I| цоц Фе ап arefage ligйle, sit on а chair and hаче а mеаsuгеmепt taken fтom youT waiýtline down опе side to thе chaiT, as shown in diaglam а, Add %" to thiя mеаs!теmепt.

I| !оL hаl]е Lаrgе hips a,lld/or аЬdоlпеп, stand and have а ýпug measuтement taken очеI а рапtу giIdle от pants frоm the Jтont waistline between the legs to the back waistline аý in diagram Ь. Add s" fоr еаýе.

If this measuтement

doeý not aciтee with the neasuтement of the cтotch оп the раttеrп, аý indicated Ьу the cтotch depth liпе оп the pants back, the patteln ýhould Ье lengthened

I

or shoItened as песеsвагу. Simplicity s]acks and pants раttегпs have сгоtсh alteration liпёs printed оп them,

То Iind the еопёсt length foт the s]aeks от Dants, stand and have а measulement taken at the side Jгоm the natuTal waistline to the point оп the leg whеlе you want the pantý

to rеэсh. сhесk thiБ mеаsurеmепt йth the length of the раttегп апф if песеssаrу, shoIten от teпrithen. (R.m€mЬеl to allow

Beforc removins: patteIn pieces fтom faЫic, maIk ends of sеаm lines :lnd ali constluction ýymbols ýчсh as daгts,dots foI matching,etc.

?1

l


тЕЕ ЕхрЕRl млкhS l llлЕмlrN|s srncкý о€ saoR?ý

front unit Stay-stitch the waiýtline ffom sides centel, and the sides fTom hipline to %" fгоm the edeie, Make the dагtý and pless toward the (lf daгts arc culv€d оr fablic hеачу, от ýlash the dalts апd pтess ореп.)

Pin and stitch the ceпteI {Tont sеаm. Stiteh the seam again Уý" flom the fiБt stikhing within the ýeam allowance. StaTting at the lоwег ёпd, tTim the seam close to ýecond stitcbing as faT up as the smait dot. PTess the seam tovard the Tight-hand side.

hack чпit 6 Stay-ýtitch waistline and sides as waý done 7 Make dalts and pTess towaTd сепtет. (If fаЬгiс iS heavy, slаýh ог tгim and рrеSs 8 Join еепtеr back ýеаm. Аý on the frcnt, Stitch а second time, tlim and pless.

pockBt чпit (If рrеfегтеd, the pocket may

into the Tight ýide seam Ьу the method used in Ь9 рчt

skift demonstration, page 50.) With Tight ýides together, pin one pocket piece to fгопt аlопg Iight side ýеаm, the

10

Il

matching sma]l dots. Stitch in а i/]]" seam frоm lов,ег ýma1l dot to \l,ajStline. Рiп and stitch tile second pocket рiес€ to the i,ack аlQпя thе гight side seam. rr. '.a. l!.]i:. !есi ýеа:. t..ward pft'ket. Оп (-'щ '.i, *аЕ::::€ rbranah |..',-,fu

"-|'la lйftr. .дi ;r€.d

,!a

!6i .lfrаrф_

9, |0


тЕЕ |]xPEllT мдкЕS l .|лпмЕNтs sLдскs ов sяol|Ts

jоiпiпg front & back шпits 12

13, 14

pin fгопt to back

on

left side sеаm and

зtitсh fTom bottom up to side Sеаm notch, а slit at РгеSs ýearn open. (If the Slacks have

the bottom ol the Siale seams, StaTt stitching thеsс Ееаms дЬоUi 3" above the lоwег edge,\ seam апd 1з Pin fTont to back оп right side Stitch in а %" seam JIоm bottom to lоwег end of pocket opening. clip Seam to stitсhiпя line below pocket апd pTeEs open, poeket ýectinns 14 Right sides togethef, pin the tойthеr. Start at bottom of %" ýеаm made iп Step 9 and ýtitch iп а 7s" ýеаm to

waistline edge.

PTess sla,ký 15 РгеSs pocket tоwагd the frcnt, (ThiS brings to the fTont ;lonei the seam tine, joined insiale the seam rпherc the poeket was to the slacks front во it will not shоw') (Whеп 16 Baýte pocket to front waistline edge, will wBistband is put оп lateT, th€ pocket top Ье Stitched into the waistband seam,) close to 1? оп the or.fýrd€ oJ the pocket, Stitch the frопl edge througb all lhicknesseý for from l" to 1%" fTom \r,aistline ede:e, 18 РiD and stitch the inner leg seam, Pтess seam ореп,

inserting the zipper Sevelal methods of insertina zippeгS аrc

paaes Shown оп pages 108 to 110, Alýo see 50 to51 iп the dеmопзtrаtiоп of SkiTt

construction. use whаtе!ег method is

ршttiпg оп waisthand

put on in the Еаmе waistbandý ol Blacks аIе page 51 of the way as зkiтt waistbandý, See

зkirt demonstTation,

f 1g

20 а,Ь,

inishing

dacks_, Stitch undeт La оп lо$еt edge of edge tt,e ,tesiтed depth ol

iu"n

цп lоrпеr

place, bem. P;ePs апd Slip-Stitch ill 91,1 al lhp ],allol, ol 'hр 20 || |he -,lo,ka поJр о

si,?e seclrs, finish ,з fotlow": stilch опр edg, ot straighl saam bIndlng la 'очеr Ihe side орFпiпg lo цl'h!n l ol

а

h ' d

Lowet,edge, stifch uпduт r4" оп loweT edge oI legs, Turп lo.e,,"dg, to ""/s'd,, lоrmjпсhеп, cide edges aloт g ýеаm,lпЕ, St itch hem Io to lnsroe, Тuтп hеm and орепiлg edges Slip-Stitch hеm iл place,


Pin pocket to baste_maгked pocket location

line оп left {ront of shiтt, Stitch to the shilt about Уа" fтоm the edge. Remove the bastestitched location ]iпъ.

hасk шпit Make two rows of machine gathering on the upper edge of the shilt back between the notcheý. put the first гоw on the senm liпе and the second row %" ffom th€ first on the s€аm allowance-

y0l, Stay-stitch the ne€kline оп sеаm line and the should€Iý %" fтоm Sеап line within ýеаm а]lоwапсе. Pin the side of the yoke Jaeing to th€ 1l).о29'9Лt side of the shilt back, matching the сепtетS and notches. Puti up the gаthегs to fit. Baýte.

\ryith outsideý togetheI, рiп the yoke to the ýhilt back апd yoke facing, matching centels and notch$. Stitch ýеаm thюugh all thicknesýes, Layer the Sеаm,

{- ,i* iti4 Ё* :ii.&Ei iql, lillii]ihn '!rt .!it* * h{l \r" iiin* lrt r* le


,0ln yOke & back to fronts Pin and Stitch the 7lgrt Sidc facing to the UIолg Side of in а fогwаrd ýhouldel sеаm. %" and press toward yoke.

10 Press undeт the sеаm all0!,ance оп the {ront edge of tho yoke and tгim to l,s". Pin апd lop-ýtitch over the Senm оп the о?rtýrdе. Baste the yoke апd yoke facing togetheт :rt the n..kline оп the Seam liпе,

collar unit

ll 11

Stitch the intoTfacj п g to the иrол,g side of the collaf оп the ý€аm line, lеачiпя neck edge lгес, TIiIn tbe interfacing o,rl, ctoce to

12 \Tith outsides togetheT, siitch the col]ar апd collaT facing toget]rer,lcaYing the notched e{ige ореп. Тrim thе coTners and 1ахеr the seams. Рrеss the Seam ореп gо tbe collar witl tufn mоге easily.


Еи.N"s

'з 14

1 M,rл,s sPoл?s ýяIIl7

to the fieiht ýide and plesý, Tolling the edges slightly to the undeтside so sеаm line does not show. Рrеss, Top-stitch Уа" frcm finished edces.

тum tbe соllаг

clip the Shiтt neckline, includjng the facing,

to the Stay-Stitching. Pin the collal lacing and inteтfacing to the back neck edge, matching the centeý. Match and pin the notch on the f��опt edge of the collar and соl]аr Jacing to the Same notch оп the neck edge. Match and рiп the lтont edeie of both collal апd, facin| to t]r1е dot оп thе front neck сdgе. Stitch the col]ar and Jacing to the front пе€k edge fol about %" to hold it

loop fot neck button

'5

The loop mауЬе made of sclfmatelial от of а piece of Soutache Ыaid- От а thread loop may Ье used. Tomakealoop of self mateIial:

а Ь

. d

Сut аtгuе biag Stlip 1" wide and about 1" lопgеI than the Iinished loop will Ье. Eold the stlip l€ngthwise, fight ýides togothef, and pтess. Stitch 1/в" flom fold. Trim gеаrп to aЪout 1t". With а needle, {ast.n а stfong thтead to one end of the folded ýtгiр, Drаw the needle, er..e end ffIst, thrоugh the fold, tlilning the strip Iiяht ýide out, Pless.

15d

16

16 Fоrm th€ stlip into а loop апd Ьазtе to the outside of the left ffont neck edge close to the fold line oJ the flont facing ext€nsion. Have the loop pointing do]rr, away fгоm thе Seam edg€. (If soutache iS uýed, bastc in the Same poýition. lf а thтead loop is to Ье used, it iS put on when the Bhirt iS finiýh€d,)

17

Т!rп front facing €х.епSiоп

to o/týid. оп f,)ld liB., оl€г сс]l]аг. Р;п facing апd соllаг to ir,,.t .е.k rdge Дt епd of facing. c]ip

:.- :Jj:

,,::

:.:.]\:]t.l.:, IIold llррег co]lal !::..,j.:]1(h епlirе


,.r,! {Fr,lrý s-llrlr

18 Тurп the {ront facing to the inside длd pвi Piess the back neck ýеаm ?]р_ Р.еý чпd€. the seam allowance on the co]lar ba.k. chec! the гоll of the соl]ат, adjustiпa the tчrпеdunder sealn а]lоwапсе if песеSsаrу. Тr'm the sеаm аllо,!чапсе to поt о!ег 1!" апd ýtitch thc соllаг edge oveт the seam,

sleeve unit 19

АсrоSs the top oJ the Sleeves, between the notches, make а line of eaзe-stitching on the ýеаm line. If degired, а gecond line may Ье put in, %" fтоm the fiIýt, within the seam

2l Fоr the opening at the bottom

oJ the зIе€чеs,

ýtitch on the Stitching lines, squafing the st;tching ,сгоsS the top, slash between the stitching to about %" fгоm the top and clip diaяonally into thе согпеrs.

21

Рiп the оfirsrd€ of the Sleeve opening ztdeflop to the 1l'/олg Side of tbe Ъасk edge of the орёпiпg, having lоwег edges even. Stitch l"пm.|iррёd соrпсг to boiiom iп а l1" сFаm. РгеsS seam tоwагd undeтiap.

Press uпdеr %" on the оthеI edge о{ the

under]ap and top-Stitch over the sеаm оп the outside, Тuтп and pтess to the outside the clipped top of the зlеече opening al1d the end of the unc]ellap. Baste,


ое

ta

,aJuBMoIlT ш"аs

аIочшJе раtлш]i] аql Jало чi)]I]s do] рu€ а.\ааli эti} ]о а)u"лtопЕ Lцтаs ач].iэрuп sБа]а

lz

,,,7! о1

аIочtuiв ачl +о '?rо,алааls ач] tчоi] а)ч".,\\оп€ tuвas alil mi.lJ ,t?м€ tлtаs a!.l] ýýaJd }sig 'шваý pallal ?Bg € IoJ ,qr}l]Е рчt ýачilоu ачt uaaмlaq цU ,sача]оu одааls аql ов рЕа.lч} аsвэ эщ dn ппа pll€ sчJвtч iарIпоqЁ ач] iц]чrlвtч 'аIоtIцiв ач1 lll алэаIý зч] uld '.lач}аiо} i^apls}no q}lд 9z

,ап!l шЕа! ач1 uо s?Baid эщ Jo аара ]аiлоl эч] Бво.liв ч]]qS ,алааIý ач} Jo аЗра iaлol ач}lв эрIцпо ач1 uo ýl"aid 1}оý эrlвIt ,sаýýаuчап{} пв чЯпоiч] -8uluado аql Jo эарэ Jaddn ач1 ýýоirе рu€ рuэ pa}ulod alt} рчЕ аара Buot ач1 uо uoqlsod ul t{i?Irs 'шваБ atl} Jarlo uld puE apls?ro эt{} о] d€Iiало аq] pIoJ ýz

1 эч1 Jo plra dol рэrчоd aql rlо puЕ абра atlol аulпlзшаI ач1 lto ,,ti Japun ssa.Ia ,d€l]ало аql pieмo] ш€аý аqr ýsа.lа

,z

,шоцоq о} IauJoa paddlla ач] uloJJ шваs ,.rt € ul чаlчS-,uэла ýаара laдot ;ul^вq 'апIuэdо Jo аара rпоi} Jo ар!ý Оцолm эч| о1 d,r)раао ацt Jo 2рБ?u о эtl] ula

tz

,d€I.Ia^o

s,LNxNEv, !

slrчп

J:Ei,Llxs gЕ,I


29 Preaa uJldeJ.r]" 1]]L 1п. Тum пр the lo{el e(ige 1]], of hеm апd !jп in 1rl!(., dсSсгiЬеd on

!tя.

|1r,

y{listhands

З0 Stitch the iпtегf!с;пg t,, of thc iuiSlbnlld fa(iIg Tl'im the inie1,1xcjng ,,,]

з1

32

Тоlп lrand to Iignl :inl ]':, -Sеrm ljпе s]jghtll,rn th. ,]]l] l! i', . ý;d. of the bnnd fa.ilg s|сF!F, \tit.h, Pi.ilg .

,

l,. ,,

]

33 Pless ппdсr |he sеаm дlltllalre rеmлiпiлg rаlг cdg. of rh. ],!ntl 11", Тор .оltг] , а "titcl огеr t]r. r,]' ('.пtjппс t!]] st]tchi.g l,"n] a]i outside u]gtS,.г ц.гk :1.|L(ill

f

inishing

з4 xIxkc Luttl]лhol.s

in thc ]c]'l iI(|rt ,,]

i.lr1]

thc

,",j , al,,lL"l lr , :, " holes апd о rhe rjght noc]i sсдm uпdег the .", hiгg ,,i ' Uр, ,оор, Il d.,, i/o,1. п оf. . "d.l. stitch 11" IIоm thc edJ.e of the co]]af.


fabfic and its lining oI itý facing to:dd .]ьqф,', оr foT реrпrапепЬhарiпg jiar.e_aýýltсl1 а|"*Цзщ, 9цДS, lege.ls,etc. lYhen used under с!i:ýрцеý1 or and buttons, it also stIgпst!е_цý those nlcas оп ýhiсILеёJm q!!аЦ,Црцt. lпt€lfасiпя mаtеriаls mау Ье made eýpecia]]y fоr interfacing pufposes, оr they mау Ье а fabric which iý also uзeal fоI making Ealmentst such аý cotton broadcloth, olgandy, taffeta, etc. )+dli z _, ,zl.z, -lr,t *.._ .,, iS the material insei,ted between the gаrmепt's

,n!n" . 1',1., I

",-l-

''1.4

sIecial interfacingý

The materials made especially fоI inteгfacing атс of two general types: \\l)чеп апd псiп-wq1,9lц Within these two genelat types are many vaтiationý in weight, texture, flbeT content and color.

' ,r,, ,

- J

'-/-..fJ}L

-,)-

t,i

|,

Йich int.rfacing

Тhеrе is по rule of thuml, to tel] you what nlterfacing to use whеrе от !,hen I When deciding what kind to use, ask youгSelf questions Suсh аý: Is ,1ц gaпrLeпt labfic hea1,!|, пеdiчп] 1l,.i!|ht, li (1htloeig

,_.__r

... ,J"}-.-_.

Wошп Lпtеrlасiпgз, .-, , ,-,-. Woven interra.incs аr" made l't" wочеп fabrics with iengthwiýe and crosswise thrеаdý and, tbercfore, hale "gTain". They should Ье cut on thejame gIsiп as the fabi,ic piece to which the inteTfacing iS to Ьс applied. lnctudcd in thiý woven gф р аIе ýuсh weýves as the ditrcfenttypes o{canvaýhаirсап!аз. cotton convas, iinen canvaý and frпеI weave. in \ а г\ ins ое)4 гFFs oi (г:tрпс",, |/} . |-,l-,

to шsе

h

t аf sh ее1,?

НоФ 11isp l]o I ч,олl tt ro look? Dо I

11lqпt

th? зlhlе аlпочпt о| сfiзрпеss

Afe the|e Teas that

пеесl speliaL

Апýwетg to questions like these Shопld help you decide not on]y what type interfacing to use but alýo тhеthеr you should pian to use two d]fferent typeý iп ditreтent аIеаs

/4:1iз1. f'oi?_ IlhUPn IпtP rlасiпgз п2-а",""}2i /"La,/.N on-ýloven interfacings have по

'

|, l ч/ ',.,

,J!.,, " ii ,,i, ,, u J .,_r ' ! u,лJ!}

lisible

):-hrсаds bul аг* madc Ьу a.ompresiing оI mаlllлg рrосе,q shiсh gives lhрm somewha, the look оr lighпvFlg\l t*ll. Tne! h,,c n" рrаiп апd the Dаltрrп .ап ье рlд.еd оп thern in апч dire.lion lог, Lllins,

| "Уау Ье п plain compleýýed sheet о{ -у-;...-.з-!,-, mаtегiаl oI "ventilated" with tiny aif ., ,

holes лll очеI the suгfасе, And thеге is also а Stretchable oI "biaý" typc that iý designed foT use in gаrm€пts with Soft lines that nFad погс,,ubl le, leS. сriýр, shaping,

?, Y.l ,!л_?. l ,i) ". ".:"

^,

",,,ttJu,1,1 i

Рfеss-Оп" InteItaciпg Тhеrc is a]so а ýpecin] txpe of iпtег{асiпg descгibed аS "рrеSs-оп" vhich comes "

.,- J-..J

а-Г1^

Ltцщд

_iaiЦ:ea -,;й;tдеrds hеачiеI intefiacing thап а soft onei that а }р!\у |aыic nepds а hеачiеr iпlоr|:а(iпg: that а won't Show. such аý а ffne net. If you аrе in doubt аý to which of two weights to use, us_e tЦ9 liЕht9]_адg And rcmеmЬет| If уоur galment iS wgýhаЫе, ,lvaýhable alld the inteгfacin€. must alýo

рrе--!цrццLЦ'дqlLеJgг, the galmetlt is to ье

dry-cleaned, 9ЦЦ9_{ l_ycý}4&l_s .aI d{xc|earxb|e iпlргtа(;пg rпаJ lre used, длd ir the fahic ig "wash-and-wear", you can also gеt а "wаsh-апd-wеаг" inteтfacinя. how mцсh intcrfacing t0 ЬUу

Тhе песеssаIу interfacinla уагdаgе will Ье gil,en оп thе back о{ уоur patteTn envelope, if iпtеrfасiпg iS intended to Ье used, But if l,ou $,ant to liзe intelfacing in aTeas not sLlяяеstеd Ьу the Dattern, ]ai,out thе pattem pieces i-ou ý i]] Ье usin8: \гithiп а ý,idth iп ,hich the desired iпtегfасiпg is made,5nd п.аi rе hoý mчсh is needed,


preparatioп oi interfacing

mаrkiлg the intellacing

If you ате using washabte interfacing, Ье ,f,пtесd пIе_shruпk: о1 shгink i_t_!€9l9,"_}Ццс. (See page 29 fоI How to

MaIk intelfacing with att thе constmction

ShTink.) lf it is woven and not pelfectty on 8rаiп, stтaighten it Ье{оIе cutting, (See palie 29 f of Stгаiяhtепiпя GTain. )

Symbolý found on the pattern. (See page 35 fol How to май,)

If, beforo cutting youI fabric and inteгfacing, you will chcck the constтuction syrnbols оп the pattem, you wjll lind that some need to Ье mаrkеd only оп the

intelfacing. Buttonhole locations, JoI Gutting the interlaciпg

YouI pattem will indicate what patteln рiесеБ аfе to Ье used in cutting the interfaclng and whеthег patts of these pieceý are to Ье trimmed olт Ьеfоrе cutting, If you Dlап to intelface an afea not ýuggested Ьу the pattem, you s,ill Stilt use thе patteтn piece to cut the intorfacing. RDt rеmеmЬет that the entiTe pattern piecc

example, сепtет front lines, etc. Place the intellacing on the wгопg Side о{ thc fabfic ýо the malked side is up and the necessary malkings will Ье сlеаrlу visible.

сАUтI!цi!gs:ф9ц.!L!9-]дц}е,d gц-.LаtL the ,raтment fablic and the inteгfacing .rs they mUst Ье made Scnrrlrte]y.

atlaching intOrfacing t0 gatment

gепегаt rule,

intefacing

iý pinned

in

piace апа st;tсЬеdБ-iБЙЙЁпt iЙпg Lhcýsam.]iдe. оп jl.k"ts iпJ.оаls thbl have und"r-.o]Ial,s. howeveт. the intelfacjng ig basted to the uпd.f-UоtliI агd ,hFп аltз, hAd рртmзlепl ly -lifib padding stit!!щý bes made ej eith l. Lпдdе eithelh*_hnnd е. (See Dаgе 99 foт Hand padding Stit h.) Inteffacings used in the lIonts of jackets and coats аrе genelally stitched along the оutеI от op€ning еdде ,nd then hand-tacted to the galment along the iппег edge with long Iunning stitches. (See page98 fог Long Running Stitch.) Intefiacing along the lowel. edge of а jacket may Ье entircly attached with thesё stitches.

Гоr examp]e, often the entire lmnt not inteтfaced, the interfJ,cing cut to extend only palt way J(lo-. lhP trопt r- -hоsп in Diagram А. Мrпу of the bettel dTessmakefs, however, do inteIface the complete fтопt. If уоuг inteffacin8i is the woven type, cut шrf' the лain as you did yotlT fablic. W_Д9д9!еI t,os.ihlc Buch aS цhеп сuttiпя д .ollar, lог iпstалсе-сut the iпtегfасiля firSf Ьеfот€ _,!!ф,!_iд g_tlrе,lа!!ц-!9аrе- t}s_ра_t!",-.лрi!д94 о{ а ]'acket iS

tp_

tц9.1длg9!дs,здq ру-дt! 1l,!9$1:]19

Ап.i nattern 0п the fabгic to (Ul, Thcn lhe unit will Ье completety asýembled when you ате ready to woik оп it.

trimning interfacing in seams

AfteI stitching thё interfacing to the gaтment fabIic, tlim itveтy close tothe

sеаm

line to геduсё bulk iп the seam. If the ýеаm is an e?i.loýed one, ýuch as in а соtlаr, also trim the eiarment faыic Slightly wideT than the inteтfacing. (See Layeling of Seamý, раgе 88,) If it is an о2ап ýеаm, Such aS а side ýеап in а coat. it is поt песеsSаIу to tтim th€


DETAras

!дJ?

couNT

- lNтЕRFлсING

lomG iпtеrfаGiпg tricks

Fоr Shafp Соfпеfs When cutting interfacing fог соlЬтs, счfis and lдреls that have ýhап) corneTs to Ье tumed, trim ofr the interfacing сотпеr about %" inýid€ the rneeting plece of the ýеаm lines. This will eliminate the bulk of the intelfacing fTom the colnel, makina it

€аsiеr to tum. (Diaglam В.)

stitch on stTaight .ent

liпё. Ttt rcinfof.e Doint, stitch back and fortb ýечетдl times-

U зiп g " Рrжs -Оп" I пtef I acin g

a

when using the "pтess_on" type of iпtёrfасiпg in aTeas that ате to Ь€ ýeamed and tчгп€d, cut out the рiесеs and caTefuliy mafk all веаm lineý, Their tтim off the ýеаm allowances all aтound thе piece. once the "рrеs8-оп" type is attached to th€ gа!m€пt, it iB зlmоst impossible to rcmove and t}us impossible to t.im thе sеаm, cutting ofr the ýеаm allowance Ьеfоге рrеýSiпg it оп зоIчеs this pIoblem.

Makhlg Dаrts iп Interlaёillg

То rеduсе the bulk of daтtý in heaw iпtетlасiпяg, mgke them аý followý |

Mothod,

Тrim the lapped ýtitchinя.

1

edgeý to about %"

fФm

Method, 2 cut tbe dдгt оп th€ ýtraiaht center line to about %" beyond tbe point.

cut th€ mдIkеd daтt

оп one sl9nted Btitching

line to about Уа" ьеуопd the Doint.

'

I-}rf

.----_ltL-,

ihe ýIanted stiиhing lines mРet.

2 l,ap edges

ýо

l

й]Ф!t.Ьl.d.tit

Strt

b

fut

В.йrйtt Dd.t. a Tri- LFa .tt

to

rtФt Ч-.

hiпа lines.


1^J} :i, ,.

\.L 0!_I2-л о| *-д.4"{r t n

L

".

p",z-

"t,l,

{, kb,.а

]r

uп dеrliп!пg Und€flinings arc used to plevent а skilt or dless fтom ýtretcbing оr saggiлg out of Shape; to accent а Shаре; to give mоIе body and сhагасtеr to а gaтment ; оr in the case of lacР пr .hеFrs to (nJnlpra.{ lrап"раrепсу. Skirts mау Ье completely undeTlined оr undeIlined only in back to prevent "sitting out" от only in flont to give Ьоdу to waistline pleats. Drcss bodices when undeIlined arc comilletely so, except that sometimes undeтlining the Sleeves may Ье omitted. Slacký andothel types oJ prlnts would also Ье completely ttn derlined as would ]асе оI sheef bodices от blouses.

' Ю"'*е",lс,-л,д-,t,

l I

l I

I

l I

l

m.terials lor чпdеrliлiпgj should Ьр flrmlу / / wо!еп ýu(h аý laffela, lwiII, гhiпа ll jlllppn, г4уоп 5еrgе, pt(, rr ,Ь- H^.гл*t i. nade of wаýhаЫе fablic, the undellining // shoDld also Ье wаshаые,

silk,

l l l l

underlining а skirt Askilt

undertining mау Ье made Sepalntely and attached опlу at th€ waistlineal1d placketedges, оr itmay Ье а buitt-in раIt

I{ only the fTont

is to

аьоutзот4iпсhеs

Ье

undeIlined, cut to

below th€ hipline,

of the skirt.

cUtting the underlining

Use the skifipattefn and eut it lonci enough to leach to th€ top of the ýkiTt hеm от just

stightlyiongel.

If Skiгt hаý а pleat oI!ent, omit the pleat extension whеп eutting the undeI]ining, But ье suIe toleavea Seam allo1vance foT IinishinP the underlining edgoý.


whепе!ег pý.iЫe.(ur tь. c.&rtiEiдrз оп

аг!i! г.tЬ, tь.a Ф rb. leлgthв,ise 8гriа- ТЬ .t dr! Ь tb! lenathýise агriц r.bib b.r kr. t€ldeacý

the сrоssý,iý€

aoillr.fuud t}. ъ.dr, $}|Б

Еr*

to stretch,

}

Сч! in lbis $sy, you сап also рlап to have the !.lrзgе at the bottom of the lining so you Eill поt hale tоhеrп the ]oiver edge, In а slim skiгt, апу ýhарiпа at the bottom iý ýо ýlight it {,ill not mаttег if the ]ining еdg€ iý left ýtraiяht.

Иrол.g Bides togetheг, pin uпdегliпiпg frопt to Bkirt frопt and lndellinina back to skilt Ьас}, Baýte_stitch underuning rо skifl sideJ and waistline about %" JIоm the edges, If skiIt flont has soft pleatý, baýte_stitch undeIlining to skirt thгоugh pleat lines and make the pl€ats.

tfte built.in чпdеIliпiпg

If skift has сепtеI searns, stitch them оп both J}iгl апd undcг]ining sпd ргрiс оррп,

If skiTt has dalts, they mау

Ье handled

in

eitheI of two wауs as fotlowЁ: а Baste-stitch uпdегliпiпg to skiтt thTough сепt€г fold line of daгts. Make daltý through all lhicknesses. , То гсdчсе bulk, чпd€riiпiпя mау Ье tTimmed аwау to about 1/i" fгоm stitching.) PTesý darts

ElcErItol.,: lf skirt

pleat ог ý€пt, seam onll, аЬо!е thе Pleat. Тhеп ha_ý

!hе чпd€rliпiпа t!r.B .ad.r lЬ. еiа?з

дtt_ .!:.Ji l

d.rrEýr.G. 'дье

Ь]оt tlЁ !.lE rDd dф !.( пtr{ ll it

ltэrk*.a-ar&-a l---r-Gl-, ,

llale dart_. seFвlel!- iп ýkirt md in B.&.liDi!a ь.fo.t Ь'tilr8 ulderlining ь ,bn Ptr.. .tifr d.!,B tоr^зtd сепtег, d.rl' toп.d,id€s. -di]{


чпdеrliпiпg slacks, shorts, pants Proceed exactly аý fоr а built-in undeTlining

Pin Side seams toaethel thгo gh

шпdеrliпiпg blouses or dress hodices

а11

thickneýýes and stitch entiIe,ag}' side зеаm. Stitch l?l' ýide seam only to bottom of piacket. Baste-stitch rеmаiпdег of seam in

prcpaтation foт putting in the zipper, TTim the ýеаm allowance of the undeтlining апd 8

Put in zipper.

9

Put on Waistband, layeIing the seam to Teduce bulk, (In layering, leave unde"lining seam allowance just а bit longeT than the

,

The рmсеdulе in а bodice iý similaг to that of а built-in undel]ining of а skift. Undellining pieces аrе pinned alrd baýtestitched to coтreýponding pieces of the bodice] dalts ате made throuah all thickneýses; and the bodice constructed accolding to the instructions in the pattern_

otheт lауегs.) Uпd,еrliпiфg |rопt or bocft оиJ? is dопе the Same way except that you have only а front от back to wоIk with. undefliпiпa а one-ptece sйif' iý also done the sаmе way except that theTe will Ье no

tie

sBparate underliпing

Make entire skiтt except foI waiýtband. РrcýS any daгts tovaTd centeT. Make entire undeтIining. РrеSs any daTts towald ýrdas. Stitch leJt side зеаm опlу to bottom of placket. рrеsý uпdег the seam allowance of the undeтlining along the placket opening. rrой9 Sides togetbel, pin waistline ýеаm line of und€rlininsi to waiýtline sеаm line of skilt. Baste-ýtitch togetheт %" from the веаm tine within the seam allowance. Аlопg placket opeвiпg, slip-Stitch the pTessed undeI Seam allowanceý of the undeTtiпing to the zippeT tapes, Put оп waistband, IayeIing theseams. То uпd,еrliпе Dосlr orIU, cut and make undeIlinin€: back. Pin to skirt back, matcbing сепtегs and waistline ýеаm lines_ Then proceed аý followý: pin and stitch the side ýеаm allowancФ of the underlinin8 to the FRoNT Side seams о{ the skirt. Оп le{t ýide, stit h only to bottom о{ placket. Tum uпalеr Seam allorrance along placket of undellining, tapering it to lоwеr end. Hand-ýew to вАск edge of zippeг tape. put on rraiýtband,

If the underlining is not want€d in а kimono sleeve, cut it to extend опlу as fаr аý the rcgulation ýhoulder line, as iliustrated,

шпdеrliпiпg

а jacket or coat То give а jack€t

or cost mоIе body, от to emphasize the ýhape, undellining mду Ье used. And whеп theýe garments ате undeIlined, often it iý unnecesýary to use intefaci[s. cut th€ underlining Ьу th€ jacket oI coat patterп. Ploceed as fоr the Built-In UndeTlining descdbed for undeгlining а skilt, Stitching the daltý sерагаtе}у and pтeýsing the undetlining daгts to the ýides-the diгection oppoýite to the darts in the galment.

87


professional finishing tricks It'ý the little

а garment with the finishing that So often make the differen9e between f.w that сап Ье used in almost ппе with the "horвemade" look. неrе аIе а

+,,,, l-..-_f

z-}-,,

hоw to Iауеr seams

-"lly

h,

...,

с

То eliminate butk {Iоm seamý - palticulal,ly песеSsаrу whеп using fabIics of sueh weights as cotton ог synthetic suitings, ýoolens от pile fAhтics - the method called variously "]ayering", "staggeling" от "gвding" iS used.

lol seams onclosed iп lacingý Тгim facing seam allowance to about 1{]" wide, uпl"s" fдыj. trау, badly, lп sL,h cJ,p, t"in по

;11)

gеаm allowance сlоýеr to Sеаm than Уа", TIim othet about Уs" wideт. If inteffacing hаý been used, tгim it riяhl up lo ýеаm ]iле,

for seams pleýýed орOп I-a},ering is песеsýаrу

i!

рLеýеЗ:g!qп gеаms only

used, Tfin inteTfaiing or inteTlining seam to about %" wide, Th. веаm allowance of the gагmепt fаЬriс need

Т nteiiaiiiiigЛnlelt!цing Фi i

поt Lе trimmed

_Ье9п

if i' is поl о\еr

i.'

side,

/r-{Zz", _

how to tчrп curved edges tulпirg ап iпsidе счпa If curre to Ье tuTned iB ап inside one - that iý, сDгчiпя tO?.a?,d th€ ьоф of tne Еатmёпt_, сliр ffitriпя, *hich should have Ьееп done seam line, befoтe turning-

,"2<7

0

-l 4ll2-1"J,''-l

ь-,,U/zЛ_Е|'

L

_t_/.7

_

.,а 14/./zЧас.ф/

:r|1,2-/2z4-J, -

turiinйn очtsiф

сurчё If thJсчп,е is an outside ачаI from the bod}, о{ the

cu

e-that

Ф-t42 -L,

iý,

cuNing

garment-notch the

cnn'es iп1'_shs9€S to tbe sta}'-ýtitching :.еa.r€ :lr.i5a Тhiз iS dопе зо the outeI edge, т:*: ! kеstr |}_rjl th€ !€sfi line, B'ill lie flat

!it4 a!. .;n?:!

1:гЕ.ё

з ьrйс !l. |d .!*.tdýa! t '_t,цI<r;'JЬiпа !d _} Tl-':*t-.rr i!."Ь a*ad rrй !:е зr.|

а

r:

аqаi.J,;ц l4"L,..J,r12,,,


*1V,,rorAe-;-"

I P,o-,-*z- о-о ...,*_.l" ,к

а, r}4

.о2\_4

r,/^-,

,

l

f'Kl,rзrrnsidecorner, *

fiгеt

Whеп ап in{idA соrпсr is to Ьр clippРd, те;пtоrсе iъrt lr- f rоm lhe puinl, Usiпg ГюmД_!qzý r?" lhё stitchcs to lhе inch. stilch оп leam liпе to oli tПъ 01her.ideoг thcpoinl, pivolingih; '"гk needtc aL lhc poiлt. Th.n cliP lusl

л-lдIIоц:-

I

_ _ ! l, <r14./_4-4J , c-a:F<J-

tolhaýlilcbi*"mil-

l l l

I |

1

how to tчrп а facing rА nfofessional looking facing

зhо

""","^,"ffi:,

IflAi хlолq the cdge and should stay регmапепtlу 5 2л ,'{ ;n ptu"" *itbout rоlliпg, То achieve this, *oToceed

l,/7,1

i lL

аs follows: l'lt "аs",оь" rасеd isсuпеdогbias,sta}-stil,h il, 2 U malerial is looseb wочеп ог strPlchy, alsn stay-stitch edge о{ facing, gaTment, З Right sides togetheт, ýtitch facing to 4 Lауег the seam. (See page 88,)

5If faced атеа iý а сuгч€-сlЦsезд the счrче.4, а-?} a/<sэ ,1-1,

6

lu

э-s2_

-(

o,1l,f 7'-л |/

into соInеш oJ the ýquarc. ., -.,.

-tl.,

? fuq9s

lhe taJe

t,--../,za,<Z2z -.а

8

п

f

l

z

"

--.,'|}.,-,-

4_ýaз]r]_!9уеI!ЦI]9_В9Цg,

)- - -

оп о1lrýldj.дIljgцýlilфlц9lзсiпq to DTesýed sеаrп_дфе to seam tine, t--е,е; z-..l}z1,

,J

.,!

L

э

/u ,{j.. /e,lge

rоll inýidp апd рrеsý, l,tting '*'""'," so sеsm line does not show оп fiaht side, to inside gai-rnent sеаmя 10 Tack facing to ga.ment at 'In heavy mateIials, Jacina сап Ье slip-stitched

'r"."

89

,* о.ъu

i.)l'v

-!?,z-Z,:


how to tшrп а faced GOrпеr Collaш, сufiý and lapets need shатрlу deffned соrпеш to took theil best. If the part that iB to Ье tumed is intelfaced, ýuch аý а collaT, cut the соrпе1 оtr the inteTfacing Ьеfоrе ýtitching it on, as ýhown on раае 34.

Join facing to area that is to Ье tumed.

Irt

ýtitchiпg, use а ýhorteTstitch than uýual, oTchange to а shorter stitch as you аррIоасh the сотпеI. The sholter stitch acts aS а TeinfolcemenL

Тгim otr coтnel at end of point, Lауёг the sеапý. (See раgе 88.) Дt sides of coтner, trim Ьоrft. seam altowances to 1i'' and diminish to leSS thап Ио'' at the verT coTneT, 4 TuIn the piece to the right ýide,

5 Iпзэг1 а needle in thе *а!л liпе гiаht at tbe point ei tb. сс.п.. s<L nlb tbe aedle point оп ihе in, .:t _ .t6..b idt :i. <t !.' *: lo Er}. ib. D.i!._

hb

|iпl$ faced

орепiпgs

lf

а ыочsе ог shiтt wrll ье wогп outside the skirt or tгочSеý, оr if а garment fазtепs all thё way to the hеm in front oI ЬасЬ the hem оI any faced opening et ih€ bottom о{ the gaTment ýhould Ье finished with а neat enclosed соrпеI. P?oceed

With fa{ing tuTned to outside, stitch facing to gатmепt оп the hemlin€. TTim ofi согпеr at fold еdяе.

2

ТIim lacirg edge below stitching line to about %'' wide. Trim gaIment edge just slightty wideт, trimming fTom fo]d edge to within З/i '' оf iппег edge of facing.

з,l t Ргr* trqlg

---aь Itrrlr-l-, aD

g1

с1111

tln tgr Ьз

abdE

tд,


раолrsýIоN,{, l'lNrýяlNc TEIcrls

hem fiпishiпg pointers Skirt hems ,lvill

Ье neatef looking and less conspieuouý if seam bulk and edge 1ullness ате elimilated Ьеfоrе finishing th€.hem. (FоI How to Rёduсе неm Edge Fullneýý, see раgе 125.)

l0r ýёаms iп plain skilЪ Веtwеёп the hem fold line and the edge, tTim Уs" fтom the sеаm allowance. when hеm iЁ turned upfoT finishing, this will Teýultin an efiectýimilal to lауётiпg oJ seams. (See page 88.) for seams iп pleated skirts

M"rr,od д. wh€п а sедm соmеý in the fold о{ а SkiTt pleat and is рrеSýеd to опе side, clip Ъоth Seam allowances to the ýеаm line at top of hеm. PIeýý ор€п the palt of thё Beamwhich is in the hеm аrеа. Tlren tтim seam allowanee fTom hеm fold to edge as descгibed foT plaiп SkiTtý,

Mpllod а. clip bolh seam аllоWдпсеs to the

qёаm

tine at the top of the hеm. PTeýs the рагt of the ýeam which iý in the hеm area towaтd the pleat. (This is in the opposite diIection to which the ýеаm above the hem is pressed.) Тгim the uрреr

t0 fiпiýh hems оп lace dresses 1

Аftёr marking the lenфh, tlim ofr the excess tace аЪоut Уа" below the maтks.

Stitch holsehaiT bЕi d flatto the edge of the skiтt just below the marked length.

Тurп on thе mагks and catch the fгее edge о{ the hoвehaii to the dтeýý with а 1опя hemming ýtitch. If the hem is to falt straight оr ýoftly, uýe narTow Ыaidi if it iý to stand outcriвply, use wider bmid. to finish hlmý 0п shee]

hblics

1 MaTk the hemline. Fotd excess fabrie to wrong ýide on InаIked line and Dтеss. Stitch аý clo.se to th€ edge as possible, using fine needle аndýhort зtitch. 2Тrim off excesý fabтic close to the stitching. з

Тuгпthе stitched edge to the wтопg side and рrcýs, Stitch cloýe to €dgе, This teaveý two Iоws of stitchinei оп tne wrong ýide but only one row on the right,

91


to finisft lоwег edge 0' ЫоIýеý

Hems оп blouseý wоrп with snug-fitting skiтts often sholv as а Tidge оп the skiгt. То avojd this ridge, finish as follows: Make а line of stitching аrоuпd ]оwеI edge about %" frоm edge. Pink the edge, If fаЬгiс is one that гачеls, tuгп raw edge uпdег about уа" and stitch агоuпd it twice.

ýeams iп sheer fabrics А method ýimilaI to that deýcribed fог ffnishing

hеms оп sheeтý can Ье used to make fine. nlmost invisibte sеаms оп sheeтs. Right sides togatheг, Stitch the seam %" lro2 'rе ý€оr?, arrс within th€ Seam allowance. 2Fold and preýs ovel the Btitching both iayeTs of seam аllosпп,,е. Slil(h ,]ose lo ёt]се, 3 Тгim off .еЕm

allowance c]ose to stitching. 4 тurп sеаm to wгопg side; ргеss апd stit h close to edge.

how to miter соrпеrs оп pockets

оr

l Tnfn

Seam allowance undel апd prcss,

/Or,""

ou{ trrеSьрd sеаm аl]оwалсе зпd 1uгп tUIпег оп а diagonat line гuппiпg through point the firýt two ргеssеd lineý meet, Рrеss to

[9',t"

Е

! ttTTim ofi сотпеr abouL

Уs"

flom рI€ýSеd diagona]

,,/"o'u *'--"u -.,,"т

to rрrопя side оп the diagonal сrеаsе. Fold Iamainder of piece plessed seam al]owances,

fol l00se соrпGrs I'ifst fol]oш iпstгп.liопs pftkets, Тhеп ploceed aS Г(,ld (оrпег

\j!h right

1, 2 апd В on

mitering

sides tоgеthег, matching :|е:rlmmе(i .(iges of the diagona] fo]d,

l Sl,:.b 92

/. ./.


DЕтл|LS тнлт сочNт - FлoarjýsloN,1' i,iN,ýяING ?лlслs

clip

to the

stitching

Tuгn right side out

for trimning bands

Preýs undeT the sеаm allowance on both tong sides of the Ьапd. МеаSuге acculately to WhеIе the соIпег iý to ье tumed. At thiý point, fold t,and .IоSсwiýе with Tight sides togetheT. 2

Fold back th€ point oJ the fold oppoвite the malked length So it meets the pтessed seam а]]оwапсе, Рrеss to mаl(ё а diagonal сrеаsе,

TuTn folded point back and stitch оп diagoltal cтease. Тгim оf point

4 Apply band, stitcbing close to edgeý,

to mitel апd attach trim at 0пе timo USe гiЬЬоп ог aвything with ffniвhed edges, ог, tu11l йw edlies to inside and prcss haTd, 1

Stitch edges in place up to the сотпеI.

2 Fold ribbon back оп itsetf and then to the side making а fight angte. PreýS to make а diagonal cтease on wIопЕ ýide.

Stitch оп the diagonal cTease thтough тiЬьоп

Stitch along €dgeý to the пехt соmет and mitel

93


fitting А corrcctly fftting dresý should allow you to move eaýily, at the same time tooking well оп the body,

Exactly how а drcsý should fit is moýtly а matteI of peIsoral pleference. The use to which it will Ье put also hаý ýоmе beaтing оп how it ýhould fft, Ctothes desi8Ded fог action, fоr ехаmрlе, should fit easieT than а tailored town suit.

You уочIsеlf аrе tbe Ьеst judge of the way уочr clothes ýhould fft. If уоч hаче bought the riaht size pattern in the right figчге type, checked your own measulements with those of the patteTn and mаdе апу obviously песеssату adjustments iп the pattern (зее pageý 14-2З for Раttегп Adjuýtments) you sbould hаче чеIу little, if any, fftting to do. SmaII sdjustments needed that do not shоw up in а cheek of уоur mеаsulеyou arc поt SuIe of уочг Dsttегп altelations, theтe аrе sоmё pointý you mау wапt to check.

But since therc mау Ье ýоmе mentý,

orif

checl points fot а tasic tyle dreýý Тh.е Neckline Fit is o,ne of these, eýpecially i{ а collar iS to Ье attached. The neckline fits cor"ectly whеп it li€s at the base of thё neck with по pull оr wrinkles iп |hF bodi.e such as уоп sес iп

illustration

1.

ТЬ obtain а tIue pictuIe of how the neckline fits, Ье surc to clip the neckline seam to the staystitching, If there ате wrinkles they will рIоЬаЬtу disappeaT when the necktine is рrореIlу clipped. (Illustration 2.)

Necklineв will аlwауs fft betteт if the Shotrlder seam iý stitched only to within 7s" of the песk]iпе - to the point wheTe the neckline seam сюýýеý the Еhоuldег ýеаm. (Illustration 3.)

The |4|aistline Sеаm Posirioй is anotheт сhесk point. lt should Ье st the пдtuIаl waiEtline, neitheI above пот below, апd ýhould not зhоw when а belt is wотп. The B stLiпe ro7t {Uпdеrагm Dаrt) Should lie ол а lеl€l \lilh thе fullest рагt of tbe bust. l( !Ьýе ог ьеlоs,, it should ь гдiýеd от loweтed, ТЬЬ Ь ь?Jt done in thе pattem before the tir*зt Ь clr!. , Por Ьоt ro герсitiоп чпdеrаrm

a.t-ЁЕarlil 91


how to fit

When fitting, weaт the undelgafments, the foundation gагmепts and the height of shое h€els you plan to weaI with the garment. If you ale using ýhoulder раds, рiп them in fof the Iitting. If а dleýs rcquires а belt, usеопеwhеп being fftted. Fit а coat от jacket oveT а drеsý. When fittiIlя а suit jacket, wеаr а skilt and а blouse. Дll fitting should Ье done with the gаrmепt Tight ýide out. s0me litting trický If one ýhouldeI is towe} than the othel, use а Shallow shouldeI pad in the loweт shouldeT.

If опе hip iS higЬ€r than the otheт, but the

The Slee|e Dаfts. 'lhе centef one of thlее shoutd соmе at thе elbow, as shоwп оп the teft figurc in illustlation 4. If thele аrе only two, the elbow Should Ь€ Ьеtwееп them, If these ale found to Ье оut of poýition in the garment fitting, соrlесt th€m аS follows I If the iоwеI dаrt of thfee iS hiah _ о' the elbow instead oJ bejow it take out thё upper dаIt and make а new dalt in thе location wheTe the lо\rёг daгt оrrlf to Ье, aS ýhown in the center ffguге iп ittustгation 4. If the uрреr dагt iS 1ощ rеmоч€ the lowest da|t and make а new upper опе, аý shоwа in the Iight hагd lig,rrе in illuýtгation 4,

dilТегёп.е iB not очеf 1", ореп the sеаm оп the high hip апd tарег it until the ýkirt hangs ечепlу at the hеmliпе. (If thеrе is mоrе tлдп 1" of dilТ€тепсе, alteT the pattem betoTe cutting as desclibed оп page 21.)

Regulatioп should,er Seomý belong just ba.k of the higheýt рагt of the ýhouldels and should make а straight line flom neck to armhole. Тhе NorпLal АfпlhоI. S.or. of а Tegulation Set-in ýteeve beio1tes at the чегу end of the shoutdeI but not dlopping оч€r it. (Shiтt агmhоlе Sealns ole Supposed to drop over.)

The U dеrоfп sеап shочld make а stIаiяht line Jrom the сепtег of thе aтmpit towald the flоот, grainlines

The сепtег front and back gгaintines ot both bodice and skiIt ýhould Ье stTaight and pefpendicutaf to the flool €.Lсе?r' in а bias-cut galment. Buвttine and стозý\riве back gтain lines ýhould ruп Straight асIоýs the ffguTe, parallet to the flооI. on the sleeves, the 7еи9tП?r'3е gmr, Бhоuld Ье ýtгaighl frоm сhоuldег to elbow: the .rоssшisр grain straight from undelalm seam асrоss sleeve top to uпdеrагm sеаm. Crosswise gтаiпliпеS in апу рагt of а gament shouid Ье дt light ang]es to lengthwise gгаiп tines and they sbould Ье рятяtlеl to the flооr.

IJ а tёпdёпсч to ýway back сацsеs а few ýhallow wrinkles at the сепtеr r'aiвtline атеа of а ýkiгt, as iп illuýtratioп б, clip the waisttine Beam and еаýе the JаЬгiс чр into the ryaistband оI into the waiýtiine веаm of а dIeýý until the wrinkles diýарреаг. (Illustгation 6.) If theтe аrе mапу ог deep wтinkieý, alter the patt€rn as described оп раgе 20.


т

preýslng The plofessional drcssmaker "sews with her irоп." In other words, ýhе uýeý hel plessing equipment as much as hеr sewin8 machine and atong with hеr sewing machine. Рrореr plessing iý опе of the things that makeý а gагmепt look as if а plofessionat hаd made it. And the first TequiTement of ргорет pTeýsing is _ рIоре1 equipment.

pressing еqчiрmепt

Additionai рiесеs ofpTessing equipment, all vеIу

alelvet bOard. Atso called а "пееdlе" boaTd. ГоI prcSsing velvet, vetveteen andotheт pite labTicý. The velvet board is а length of canvas cov€Iedwith upтightwires. Тhе fahic iS iaid with Tightside over the wirеS (needtes) and pressed. The wileý keep the pile flom matting.

The miпimчm pieces of pTessing equipment the iroI. А combination ýteým-and_dly iron is the most useful аý it сап take сате of pIesýing du гiпg constructi on as well as ironing the {amity lаuпdrу.

tailoГs сlаррог. А thick, shapedlength of wood used to fiatten а seam a{tel ithas been steamed. whеп the iтon is romov€d, the clapperis slapped down ontothe ýеаm andheld fol а зесопd oItwo, Especia]]y usefut оп haтd-to prcss fabIics and encloýed seams.

the iroпiIg hOard. It should Ье well padded and o]d houýehold lin.nF n ake ап Fх.еllепt padding

small(travel)size ýteam iroI. He]pJul in FIеsýiпд smalt аrFаý 1hat аrр ditrl ul| loTca.hsilhll-clalgeilon, а

Ап iгопiпg boardadjuStable tочагiоus heightý is moýt convenient, {ог it can th€п Ье lоwегеd to use whileyou sit at уоuг sewingmachine.

ptessing cloths. Wool presý cloths should Ье useit on wool fabrics. Mustin оl cheeýecloth аrе satiýfactory fol cottons,linens and ffber blends,

а sleeve hoard. vеrу usefui not only fol pressing Sleeves but fol small, hard_to-get-at aleas, Thiý, too, should Ье wett padded.

:]=-оl)рл the sPamý of pointS, а pOint presser. ГоI рIеssi Such as on cotlaý {nd lapels.

preýsing during сопstrчсtiоп Рrеsзiп!! l]uiпg сопstl,uсrrо, is done difierentiy fгоm iгопiпg,,г рrеssiпg frniahed сагm.пis, Тhр iron is p]aced on the раrttо Ье ргевsёd, then lifted and moтcd

iý,Dt pullhed, a],olLg the Iab|,ic. PlaysaleI If youaTenotSuIeof thеfiЬеrоrfiЬеIЬlепd in youI fablic, uýe а рIевS cloth Ъеtwееп irоп апd fabгic, even whеп цSiпgаýtеаm ilon. to the next раIt. 1'

а tailor'ý "hаm" 0I сuýhiOп. USed fol prcSsing агеаs that need shaping sucl} аý culved seamý

ог darts. You wi]l find the арреаIапсе of the

РIеýs cach sеаm before it iý сюssеd Ьу апоthеI опе. РIеss senms in the diгection in which theyrlele ýtitcbed шiй the gтаiп _ ýkiTtseamý frоm bottom to top, shou]del sеаms {тоm neckline toalmhole. etc.

finished g:lfment greatiy impfoved if plesýing is done очеr а hаm от cuýhion. Тhе hаm, because of its Shape (see illustтation), сап Ье used in mоIе galment аIеаs. If уоu do not find опе in а local вtоrе, you сап make опе using the diгectioný оп the ncxt раgе.

а ýaаm loll. So that seamý mа}, Ье рI€sýеd ореп tгilhоut learing а mагk on the gагmепt'ý о!t,tidэ, ц* в r€аm .oll. if rou do not fiпd itE ro Jф. Lт.] s}oРs- mrle Фп€ a_r d.*fi!.{ сЁ t}. 6.r: Fa?

In all рагts of а gaIment, рrеss vith thestlaight gIаiп of the fab.ic.IJ а ýkiTt, fоrехаmрlе, is bias аtсёпtеI Jrontand back butstraightat the side seamý, рrеýý so the iгоп foilowý the srloirrf glаiп _ at an angle fгоm the centeI ýеаmý, not Straight up-and_do*n. should Ье pressed tоiчагd the point_ Horizontal 'artз darts are preýSed doý.rr: !eгtical darLý tоs?гd thе сепtеr. ллl.Jý the раtlеrп iпstгuсt.,i that the!. аге to Ье rrimmed ог s]a.lred апd preired ор.п, S€€ рааеs 35 to З7 for in forвtroл оп sp€cjfE t}-p.n of darts. )


pressing with steam А gооd head ofst€am iý essentia] fоI efrc;ent ргеýsiпg, If you Llse а steam ilon, Ьеsurе it iS in A-oneworking oi,der, deiiveling itsfull quota of steaminto tho faъIic. Gооd stеsmmауЬе obtained byuýing а drу imnwith damp pless c]oths, but it is nocesýaryto Iedampen th€ clothý fTequently. And IепеmЬег _ а da,lppless cloth

when making dfеssеБ with pufr€d sleeves оr full gathered skirts, рrеss the waistline and/or almhole seam up toward th€ bodice оI shouldel if you want the gаthеls to fall паtчIаllу. Butif уоu want the Sleeveý от SHII to balioon out, ргеss thе seam towald the

Let опе. Fотthё fightamoDntof mоistulе, firýtfold theplesscloth in ha]f. Тh€п fold a€:ain in thirdý. Put опё thiтd in vateгandlold it between thetwo drythilds, WIiпgthе cloth and the dampneýý wi]l distribute itself elenly. Апоthегwау| Afteт foldingthe wet third between the otheт two, does notmean a

aheated iгоп опthе folded c]oth andthe dampness will be distгibuted. Befoгepreýýing with а dampcloth, test-plesв asamplo of the fаЬгiе toSee ifa watel mark is ]e{t оп it.If thefe is, place а dгусlоth ovel thefablic With the dаmрсlоth overthe drv. IfafдbIicproveý difficu]t topfegs, trу using а .nmbination ol а d. mр nrcqq.loth ord Ihe аlеаm iron, рlас€

pressing wооl WoolShonld gепегаllу Ье pressed aEainst wool, 0п the Wrongýide. Рlасе а wool cloth оп the iгопiп€iЬоаId and lay the Woot galment oveгit, wIon8iside up. Whеп using а dIу ilon, р]аее а dampenedcotton рrеss cloth Lay the wool gагmепt гightside uр оп the iToningboald. PiaceadIywool cloth очеI the gaгment.I{ you uSea drуiIоп,рlасе а dampened ргсss сlоth oveT tbe wool cloth. оп the rigbt side.

some pressing tricks Whеп making daтts iп fabтics that сrеаsе easily and that don't ýlip ог stretch, fold the daft оп the straight сепtегiiпе and ртеsз befoтe зtitсhiпg. Тhеп it сап Ье stitched withoutpinning. whеп both sеаm аllоwапсеý ale tobe prcssedin the ýаmе dilection, fiгýtртеsз theseam ореr. Тhеп ргеýs in the deýiEnated dilection. This gives асlеапеr, ýhдтреI seam line оп the garment outside, If enclosed seams are tobe top-st;tched, as is often done on collafs,lapels, €tс,, give the edge аhаldрI€sS beloTe top-stitching. Simplify the matching of plaids оr st}ipes at seam lines this wауi PTcBs uпdет thе ýeam allowance оп опе of the twoedges tobe mдtсhеd. Оп lightside of theother piece, malk th€ seamtinc carefullywith cha]k, Ptace the pressed-under edge along: the chalked sеаm iine, Pin and then slip-baste the two pieces to8iethel (See pageg8 fоr how to slip-baste.) Тurп the baýted pieces to the wrопя side and Stitch.

how to make а tailor's hаm

FTomýtuldy cotton fa]rIic, cut twopieces shaped aS shопп in the diaglam, Makc them about 7" wide at the widest palt and 12" long, Saam the twopieces together, leaving ап opening of about 4" on the innel cuтved Side, Тum Tight side out. Stuft it with Wool fabTic sсIарs, Tavalёd wool

Sweatels, old пуIоп Stockings cut into pieces or otd l,oot gafments that have Ьееп vashed. Sawduýt also makes а good ffllel. Pack the fillertight]y, and as you stuiт, shapethe "hаm" until it feels haldandfiIm througholtrt. The two Бidеs andthe точпdеd end Should Ье Stightty flattened, Sew up the орепiпg and сочеr one face vith wool foт use whеп plesýing woo], Simpty cut а piece oJ wool fIоm the раttегп you madefoт the ham апd sew it Secuтely to the muslin сочеr Ьу hand.If you uselrgrf colorwoo] fаЬIiсs in youl dIessmaking, u Se а light соlог rroot covel. how t0 mаkе а ýeam rоll

Do you have an extfa wooden lo]linEi pin? It makes an ideal seam lo]l. coveт it with W.лi Iighllv.o lhр цooi do.sn't slip and youl ýeams ean Ье pleýsed оп it without leaving а mаIk on the galment outsideIf you can't васrifiсе а rotting pin, Io]l up а TAr} 1hick macazine оr qeveral lhiппсг опс. _ епоuаh to make а figid гоll. Slip over the magazine roll а tightty stitched tube of stuтdy cotton апd sew up the open end. The rolled nariazine in the tube nust Ье so tight and гigid that it does not "ýquash" when the weightof the iгоп iS put оп it, Then сочеIthe cotton tubewithvool - iightсоlогеd if youl wool Sеwiпя is mostly wjthtight coloý,


basic stitches Most sewing in cloth€s-making today is done on the scwing machine. This ечеп includeý mау Ье necesýaтy. There ате time апd placeв, hоwечет, whefe уоu may pTefeT, or Iind it to do the sewing Ьу hапd. The Stitches shown оп these pages ате those most соmmопlу

other important stitches

hasting Basting is а means of holding two ог mote ]ayefs of fabfic togetheT tempofarily, Ьеfоrе they аrе pelmanently joined. It пау Ье done with pins as w€ll as with mасhiпе оr hand stitches. when thrpnd_baslinc on lеllёl оr оlhеr fabri.s that mаIk easily, use silk thrcad, Place the pins at right апgiеs to the edge, close епоugh together to hold the frЬгiс ýо it doesn't ýlip. pin-hastiпg.

machine.baýting, USe the ]ongest machine

stitch

and stitch on the ýеаm line. so the bastinci ýtitches can Ье easily Temoved, do not fasten the thread ends. (See page 35 fol uýing rnachine brýtinsi to mаfk constmction symbols оп gагmепt outside.)

rцппiпg ýtitch. The Simplest of all hand

stitches, this can ье used in fiпе, hапd-mаdе gaпnents {or sеаmý that do not feceive Strain. It is also'used for hand-gatheтing, hand-Tun tuckc and mending:. Fill the needte with small stitches, and when needte is Juli, slide them back оп the thrёаd without tдking needle fIоп eloth.

one of the соmmопеst uses of this stitch iS to аttдсh inteTfacing edges to а garment inside. Take up only опе thт€ad of the fablic; then take а long Stitch (about %" long) ъеfоrе putting the needle iпtо the fаЬгiс again. l0пg Iшппiпg stitch,

hand-basting. Make stitches aЪout Уа" iong,

spaced about %" араIt. Hand basting is usuatly quickeг with , long пeedle.

\\\\\\\ gathering ýtitch, Whеп done Ьу hапd, the

fabric together, as а collaf and facing оr а linin8 slanted haýtiпg. Used to kеёр }ауегS of

апd inteгlinin8. Good, too, fol holding ýtippeтy fablicý. Iteep needle at Tight апglеs to edge,

mothod is the same аs Ruппjпg Stitch, except when hand-gatheling оп heavy Jabiics. тh€п make the stitch€s about %" long. Space Stitches evenly. Fоf mdсhiпе gothering ovel ]ong агеаs, use Silk, Nxlon оI hеачуduty thтead in the t]obbin. (Fог Stitch length, see rno.nrlc (tothetin!], page 26,)

llй[iIлгЁ ltu liiltл |lri_t

лl]{uj ,ДLli i1,:l,]Lb'J lЧ8

/ншflи \ш r}Цiir!.

mat.bing Seams in .:пr-a.,r }:аjс iabric_. and fоr аltегiпg ..j=..'J jе':.? .:s!: iide sllp nёdle а]оп8 * .rФ., jФd, r&? -пщап Ьвt. bter.

9t

L sed ýhеп

shirling stitch, This iý simply the GatheTin8 Stitch used in seveTal rows spaced an equal djstance apaтt, hчttопhоlс stitch.

This is the stitch used in

making hand-woTked buttonho'les.


DЕтлlLs тнлт coUNa вдslс sтlтсЕЕS

padding stitch. Uýed on collaтý and lapels

of

tailoIed gаrmепtý to attach interfacin8 to the fabTic. flaйlr-Paddrfig iS Biтлilai to ýlanted baýting with tbe undeT stitches made чргу shnrl so thеу do not shоw ол the uпdеr layel. Маrrr?r€ Pad,d,ing stitcheз аIе Simply lows of mасhiпе Stitching thтough inteгfacin!: and Jablic. Тh€Sе Stitches \{,iu ýhow on the undeт lауеr, but if the соttаr and lapels are atways to Ье worn flatпечег tuned up '- they will not Ье Sееп.

overcasting stitch. Us€d

оп Taw edges to hеlр

keep faЫic fIоm гачеtiп8. Тhе ýtitch mау Ье done lгоm Iight to leJt от le{t to Tight, Make Slantedstitches fгоm %" to У4" in depth,

overhandiпg ýtitch. Used foт hemming table

Fasten the thread undeт the hem edge. Take а tini Stit,h (one от two thfeads only) iп the gаImепt uпdет th€ fold and bfing the needte thTough tь€ hem edge, А satiýfactory stitch fоr almost апу t},pe hеm,

hеmmiпg stitch€s.

used tоr decoration on со]]аrs ind ]apels nr Iаi]огеd galTpntS, and generaIly done with buttonhole twist от embтoidery thlead. Can also Ье used fоI putting in zippeE Ьу hand. А small bnck stitch iý taken оп the outs;de and а tongel stitch between the fabric layeTs Ьёfоrе hinging the needle to the outside again. (See Tailoring, раgеlб0,)

linens. А пагIоw hеm iS tuгned twice;then th€ turned hеm is creaýed back against the Tiriht Side. Tiny straight stitcheý, placed close togetheг, ale taken thrоugh hеm edge and the body of the cloth оI napkin. Whеп prcSsed, the Stitches do not Show оп the fight side.

Similar to очеrhапdiпg, but slanted instead of stfaight. whipping ýtitch,

hand pick stitch.

."l_,

slip stitch. Т}е stitch рт€fеrтеd foт dTeýS hеms ав it is jnlisjble оп both sides, catch up only оп€ thlead iп the lo\i/el lауеr; then Slip the needle эlопg in tbe hem fold

back stitch. whете а strong hand stitch is wanted, this is the one to uБе. zippeтS, when put in Ьу hдпd, mау Ье sеwп with this stitch. Fasten thrcad and take опе

stitch. Next inвelt the needle back at the Start of the fiTst ýtitch and Ьгiпg it out one ýtitch ahead. (on the undeгside, thiý makes а stitch t,lvice as long aS those on top,)

IUr aDoul |а", Do nUl draw lhe thread tight,

foT joining two tum€d edges invisibly оп the right side, S]ip the need}e through the fold of опе edge, then thюush the fotd of the othel. the slip stitch is

аьо

r.lsed

catch stitch. used in hеms ог afeas wheTe edges need to Ье held doтn flat. Wоrk flоm lejt to тiяht. catch up one thтead оп top 1аует of JaЫic, thеп one thTead in

the lоwег lауег, then опе in the top layeT апd anothel in the Iо\теI. кеер uppeT апd lowef ends of stitches the sAme distanee fIоm the hеm оI seam edge,

99


buttonholes Despite what mапу ЬеgiппеIs think, buttonhoteý ате not Teally difficult to make. Like any ýkill, they take а bit of plactice to achieve perfection I and if you arc а beginneT, try using the difercnt methodý descTibed оп these pages. Тhеп you wi]] qujckly find which method Suits чоu best acc0.ate mаrkiпg is а first eýýent;a] foT expeIt buttonholeý. Тrапýtеr the printed Ъuttonhole location Iines оп youl Simp]icity pattem tq tЪ€ иongjide,o]l lhe, fAblic, making sute they ат€ оп th€ coTTect gгаiп. Ногizопiаl Ъutlо!\о!е! qЦgrrld tollow а cEoýsýige thrcad; veltical опеs. oltet used on Shirts and b]ouses, ýhould follow а lengthwise thTead. lespace buttoлholes on the pattem ЬеfоIё maIking if the patt€rn haý Ьееп lengthened оr shoтtened. ьчпопhо!е size. А buttonhole should ье _vý" tonger than the diameter of the button it is for if the button is ýmall, If the btttton iS laтge, make the buttonhole %'' longeT. ТhетёfоIе, if уоu wish to use ]агgеr о. ýmal]eT buttons thап the ýize indicated оп the Ъасk of youT Simplicity раttегп envelope, Ье suтe to l€ngthen oI shorten the buttonhole Iine Ьеfоге mатkiпя it on уоLtr fаЬгiс hoy t0 mark. The most ассчIаЪ rray of maIking btlttonhole lineý is with dIessmak9r_'LtгaciлgJapeI. 1See page 35 fоr how to use this.) Mark поt onty the line fог the buttonhole, but at each end of the line, make paIallel lineý to ;ndicate the exact length. S;n.,p all -h.sр mаrkq s;ll Ье necd.d оп the;яhl side of the fаЬгiс, Ьаst€:ýЦtфф!р!gh_ thсп!

паrl interfacing.If thеIе is to

--+------i

--l------_

Ье inteгfacing under the

pu' 1he maгkingS од_:hр_iI_]сrlасiлg inSttad of the gаrmепt {ll,ji". ТЦ_9}..р!ц !ц!9lf?9iцс !9 garmentand baste-stitch thгough both thickneýýeý, This not only mаrks th€ buttonholes but also holds the |лI"rrа.iпg in posili^л, If lhe iпlеrlа(iпg ia hea!y оr а поп-lчочеп type (ýее page 82), cut it away inside lhp bullonhole rееtапg|е to avoid ехtrа bulk. l,Ul l nnl UlP",

--,{--.---i--

4 ways to make Ьошпd Ьшttопhоlеs Fatch пetfiod

cut а ýtгaight gгаiп strip of fаьгiс. 2'' wide and r" Iопgеr than the buttonhole. Сгеаsе thlough сепtеI.

8]gLt цd_€ýl9gе!Ц9l, r,tасе patch оп gsтmепt. Мstсh 8rains and baste сепtеI cTease to Ьчtt_одфLеJiдg, Slitch patch to ga"rnent %'' (от leýý if labric doeý 1.: га!еi) each side oJ basting and асIоsý endв. overlap .::t.hins at end. I: inside, start at centef of basted line and ýlaвh _:. чаh patch апd gaгment to within З/s'' to ya'' fтom ,. ,_- clip diagonally into согпеrs, all the way to

:,- ;-el.h to inside through slash, Рrевs sеsmý away '- - 1-пiпg, P.esS ап inveTted pleat with folded edges, ъ. ir .т сепtег iine of buttonhole,

r.-ent Iicht Bide up on пвсhiпе and fold nb*1: тз:еriаl back so the patch end and the :=фlr!! .:ýhеd piece сап Ье put undeт the machine ]'*=

: ,.' ,: ".rо.з base of triапsчlаr__рiёсе апd -dr ,фъ!

;ul:

RеDеаt sеvеrаl timeв,

2

3,4,5


UTTONROLES

ýф щ!ццLi а

\----l-,,

{r{.\\ l. ia(

This is ýhown with interfacing, but the m€thod сап Ье applied to а garment without inteIfacing.

Гirst mагk iпlеrГасIпg sith

lосдtiопБ: Din it to gаrmепl and baste-stitcЪ over maтked location lines. (DiagTam а.)

2

\r

l

(вее

page 28), ýtitch oveI baýЪ-ýtitched location lineв the exact length of buttonholes.

3 Place inner edrie ol 4

", ii 11-

а

on interJacing, uýing Iegulдtion stitch

3

.r_ "; ,, ,

straight gmin ýtTip oJ fabTic 1" longeт ,!iZ.l !-1) l:lP-',1| L4}) 0,.,}; than buttonhole апd 2" wide. Right Sideв / togetheI, pin strip to galment, matching аIаiпз.

1 cut 1

buttonhole

w_ide_

,r.,.L:j

р94 ,olpr9lsql foot

дgainst ýtitched buttonhole line and machin€_baste оп both ýides ol the line, Let stit hing extend about %" byond bDttonhole at both ends.

Halfway between buttonhole line and

baste-Stitched lines, dIaw pencil liпез the exact length of buttonhole.

G

,7=f="+:т z:/;.\,1t i

on Tightside of garment, fold опе edge of fabтic strip back ov€l the maehinebastina towaTd the buttonhole centeI. Рт€ss. Repeat on otheт еdg€.

Turn яатmепt to inside. on interfacing, using]a!ýLltcheý_to inJ}, stitch оп the pencil tiDes eachýide of the buttonhole iine thloueih inteтfacinя, яаlmепt and folded fabric Бtliр. pullthгeads thгочяh to wlопg side and tie. Then теmоче Ьаýtiпяв.

7l)]Ustratioл 7 ýhowshow tЪjs looks

on тiяht side.

in Patch Method; Slash, draw strip thrоugh to_wTong sidеiý!таisЭ_ЕЦз:g P.t!9lr_"]{Lцqli!Ii9 tTitlTtB1'e:'.

0 Ploceed

ав

j'.

J7r,

?u

"t

l.

!+


DЕтлп,s

IEлt

сфff - -t oxBoLEs

Ёa Ё

.!froi

Счt r stвiaht gTain lengthwiseзtrip of f.bric lИ" wide апd thetotal len8ith ofsll buttonholeý plus 1" fof еасh buttonhole.

Set Seam аачgе оп machine %" from needl€. with edge of fabтic stTip againýt8auge,

2

FoldStIip towтongýide оп зtiИhed liпез. PreýS. Baste-stitch Уs" fгоmfоl&. Rerвove ýtitching on fold edges апdсчtвtгiр into

3

baste-ýtitch the length of the stIip. Repeat оп opposite edae.

ýe]}afate pieces the Ьчttовhоlе len8th pluý 1"

Rightsides togetheT, рlдсе

опе

foldededge

4

exactly %" either above oI Ьеlоw marked huttonhole line. Stitch thiough езсh fold the exact ]ength of buttonhole. Fasten thread

Гrоm wюпg ýide, staTtat сепtег оп malked line and stash thтough g&гпепtапdstriр to %" ог уа" frоm ends. clip diagonallyinto согпеrs.

тчтп StIiр to wrопа ýide thIочgh slaýh, pulling the епdý to ýtTaieihten. onTight side of gагmепt, catch togetbeT the Ьоuпd edges.

Plx. tt ttlcnt йаht Bide чроп macbineдпd E t. il ъ..!.othэ€пd о{ stгiршdth€ 'о.. tary.lr, ,bý.d *... с,д Ь цlt опdеr

*

ýrЁ -a l.d t

._tdn -dba

r

laiEb

-зa,,i..

аrG

stri!ý,

B.r..r

5

---.аfi..r.iФБ-.


Diрбd пetfiod

cut aýtraight or bias ýtrip 3i" wideand

twice thetota] l€пgth of all buttonhoteý plus 2" foт each buttonhole, WIопя ýides togethel', fold stтip lengthwiýe and ýtitch _ys" fron folded edge, (If desired, соId mау Ье encased instгipbefoIe stitching.) TIim edges %" fromStitching. cut ofi two ýtlips, each 1"longerthan buttonhole. Place on gaTment ouвidewith raw edges оп buttonholeiine. Stitlh %" frоm raw edeies theexa€tlength of hDttonhole. ( This ýtitchingwillbe directly очег the pтeviouý stiching.) Fasten thтeadý, 4 Slash, clip and tuTn piping inside and Stitch to triangutar sections as foI the Tucked Strip Method.

finishing wrопg side of Ьочпd Ьчttопhоlеs

\t/

1,2

I After comDletins buttonholes, дttасh the g4 mentfaci!rq, Тhел рrосееd аБ followý: Frоm rightside, putpins stTaight thгоugh centel of each end of the buttonho]e to mark the length on the facing. 2 Slash facing оп а Straight }ine between the pinl алd make а shоп clip at , спiе г of сас}. 3 Turn iп the еdg_еý and hещ ýýqцтgЦ in р]асе, This makes ап oval on the facing side as shown. If desired, the facinsi mау Ье slashed and clipped in 1he.amc mзппFrа. lhe sаrm,пi

оutýid9_дд! done ln thb еяsе fbp m."r,iцg рiцýýhоuld bPput into thе,l соrD€тý oJ the Ьц|t_одЦqlе, The sides and triangulaTendý аrе then tuTned in andhemmed iп place to make

103


making wOrked buttonholes hy macfiine

Machine-made buttonho]es сап Ье made much faste" than Ьу hапd and аrc stfопgеr than hапdmаdе опеS, They аIе made аftег the gаImепt is completed. Always go oveI а machine-woтked buttonhole а second time. It imрIочеs both appearance and \r,eafing quality. Ьу hand

напd-wоIkеd buttonholes, Iike machine-made ones, а!е done аftеr the gaTment is completed.

рlаiп handmade

ЛI"r\ ,." bLll"nh,,i""1thF.,r"ignt сrаlп. 2 Stitch аIоuпd the mark, aS Shown, cilcling:at 1

епd пеаrеI gагmепt edge.

з

''Jl

t,!!I !rhole

оD

сепtег mаrk and очегсаSt

1\ .l , ,:l. .. ]"_:j:.):.\trtheedges, .a:alj,,]l,{Lr: . :r ..:. -.;i:l a i'l' :: .'.r i'l.: 1 !i. iя :...tf, ! ir,,m ,:.: _ ?. -* j -;, -.::'. r ,|" ea" -E. ;l-. l ?.+- :*-

з,1

1]- r aЕ a .. et l]lъ-t l1ф'nr8Y * rъl,.,!- aяrеa:n :в'.- l'-'j! :1 '& !8 Tr i- F5 '_*. .!'ьa. . !.J .: 1ь ё j :ý9ia'. :э, a.. ... r,.E:, €!:1 r:r'{]t . хftd :.{ -.J .ra ta.ilýa Ыi..itФ? 5ttt.b.T.. ti,e iЬr€хЬ

a.,5

cloth. . Оп Terticli buttonholeз fап is omitt€d and Ьаг made at ьоth ends. on suсh buttonholФs, \hen stit h3лd thrочgh the 8згm€пt

ing аIочпd the maTk, Stitch а Dlain rcctangle.

)

tailored ftaпdmade 1

2

маrk tho bnttonhole оп the StIaightgгain. stitch агоппd mаrk as fоI Plain Handmade

buttonhole. 3 At ciIcled end, punch а ho]e M,ith а stiletto. 4 cut buttonhole оп centeI mаrk and очагсаst the edges. 5 Wоrk buttonhote stitches очеI а

eyelets for studý

l ]Iark 1lr,.ltlt:

,0l

ffne.old.

2,з,t,


hчttопs Buttoný that close а gaTment at the сеп!еI аrе seýred оп opposi_t9 а !рr]?одЦL!ц!!9gLоfg9!,l!с_а9цtеf the upper end оп the opposite side and sеw оп the " below thiý lqaIk Tf the cloýing iý ап оff-сепt€I от slanted опе, cloýe the garment a.rtd put а pin thфugh the епd of the buttonhole пеатег the edge if it iB hoтizontal, ог thтough the uppeT end if veгtical, Тhеп poýition the button Уs" fIom thiý mаrk. Тhе lосаtiоп of buttons which have no mstching buttoпholes but аr€ used for tlimming, oI of buttons used foT attaching an extra раIt of а gаImепt such аý а bib, is indieated on Simplicity pattems Ьу small dots. Оп heavy fabтics, it iý а good ialea to uýe "hеачу duty" от special "button" thIеаd foi ýewing on buttoný. тhе thтead ýhоч]d

t"@aik

ýewing buttons withOut ýhanks

д button which istosiothiouah

,@@

а

buttonhole should

have а shапk ог stem to allow Toom fol the extTafeыic between button altd gaтment. When д button hаз no shank. pla.e а hеаlу pin. toothpick оr kitchen match оп top of the button and ýew oveт it. (Illustration а.) тhеп remove the pin апd wind the thгеаd undeT the button aTound the ýtitchёý, foTming а stem. (IllustTation Ь.) Fаýtеп geculely. If the button haý foulholes, therc аrc decorativewayý of sеwiпя, as зhоwп in ]lluýtгation с. ýewing buttoný YJith ý}anks

IJ thё ýhankismetal oIplastic, it is not necessaly to sew очеr а pi! uпlевs thefabric is чеIу thick. But iJ the shдnkis of cioth. then athread stem should alýo ье made. when sеwiпя sha.tk buttoný, keep the ýtiфhщ!оLl

""аЪqrФсЦ_о_th" "dg"_g&!е_lФIЦ r.inforcing buttoný

Buttoný that wiil Teceive extrastTain оIяте sewed оп а single thicknesý of fabTic shoutd Ье reinJorced, О!_,!Д9_Lпsidе_ пf the pament_ difectlv undeT the ЬцК9дIасаri!&-рЬддл fяhтi. .na ".,, +ъ-еuеh ýffall flat button оr а s ъutton oI faыic l'!9ц.а taped hчttопý.

Таре, eord огпатrоwIiЬЬоп mауЬе usedtofasten buttons with larcie holes. Drаw the tape thтough the hоlеý andtie. Then whip the tape endý to the gaIment. link huttons.

These еIе often usedaý cnfflinks. Ruп doublethrcad thIough two buttons апd fasten securely on the undeт side of one button. woTk oveT the thread ч,ith blanket ýtiklr. (See Фаgе 140.) chinese hallbшttoný.

Used with decorative Jгоаý (see раgэ 10'i) and rnade of сочеIеd cold or ýoutache bTaid, Fогsmаll buttoný, cut а piecefrоm 8" to 10" long.

а

Ь

с

d

Loopcold аs shовп. Loop asiainoveland uпdегffIýtlоор. Loop а thild time, weaving thгоugh оthеr two ioops, Кеер loops ореп while working. Еаýе togethel, shaping into а ball. TIim епdз and sеw tъеm flдt to uпdегýidе of batl.


other fastenings la0l!

taclý

ry,s or Ьагs Hooký should Ье sewn to the ga.mdnt at both the Ьа_се and undeт the hook. Eyes are ýewn оп]у at the base; ba.s at both looped ends.

PJai,

Оп lapped еdgе,] sлсЬ аý waiýtban&, ýеw hook close to edge of очеIlар, Sew ёуе от Ьа1 back fтom the edge of the undeIlaD.

Лтеt'

aпd

Tocftý. These conýist of а few somewhat looвe ýtitches used to sесurе one section of а яаImепt to апоthеI. ЕхдмРLЕ: You uSе plain tacks whеп tackinE а neckline facing to the shott]deт Seams.

fuсk. USed chiefiy to ho]d а ]oose lining to the side seam, especial]y thё tining of а coat. Тдkе lооеF a'il.\p. bPlwpFn lЪр tцп |аЬri. tr:р.ас апd wolk blanket stitch очеI the threadý, may Ьё used iпtеIсhапgеаЫу Tith the Frcпсh ta€k to hold ti,o pieces of fаЬгiс tояеthеI looýely. It is also used as а be]t саrliе? at the side sеаms of dlesses, use buttonhole twist oI heavy-duty thlead, oI dоuЫеd Tegulal thrcad. Fаstеп thгеаd with ýeveтal зmаll stitches at the

crcjfi rосk, ТhiБ

Оп meettпg edges s|сh аý the neckline of д centeT bвck opening, sёw еуе extending Slightly oveT one edge. Sew hook Jаr епоugh back frоm othel edge so opening edges meet Bnugly, ?/,f€&d ag.s аге used instead of thc metal ones when а softeт clGing iS wanted. Fоr а thread еуе, make several overlapDinя bal Stitcheý at the desircd Spot. WoIk очеI the зtтапdз with the buttonhole stitch, п€еdlе еуе ffrst. ThIead eyes may ье wогkеd оп the чеrу еdяе of дп openins оI just inside the edge. snaps

on the next Stitch do not pull the thrеаd 1оор all th€ way thIough the fabric, but hold it open оvеr То make SuIe that the balt апd socket аге diтectly opposite each other, Sew the ball in Dlасе first, Lap the opposite side of the opening oveT the ball and pTess between the fingeTý. The ball wilt make ап imрrсsзiоп оп the fabric and lhe so.kct is sёwт оч€r the impIesýion. If the fabтic is very thick оr with а Juzzy suTface, Tub chalk очеI the ball Ьеfоrе pтessing it agajnýt the opposite ýide. Sew over and очеI thlough опе hоlе; then са"ry thI€аd uпdеI th€ snap to the next hole. Sпар tаstепеrs q,hich Аr€ to Ье hаmmегеd оп B,iIl !ale irstruc!ions in the pa.kaFe. These аrе

*;ц-:а]lr iгаr::.а: ,a. !-_.т..

t'i

{* .il: я-.

106

cIildrei'J

i_:i '., : 1.1 ::a:i а. . :-=з:.a

с]о!hе_r,

* -. Еаrп.пr*r

ffпgеrs and thumЪ. Reach thloug:h the 1оор and take hold of the thIеаd connected with the needle, Ietting dIор the 1оор that was oveт the fiпgеrs, Holding needle in opposite hand, pull needle thIеаd through the dтopp€d loop and dlaw it up ovef youi fiпgеrs, As you dтaw the пеw loop oveт youT fingeтý, the old loop slides down the thIead to ýtartthe chain continue drawing пе€dlе thread thlough and s]iding loop dоwп until the chain is аý long аз desiIed, Then dTag,the пееdlе itse]f thTough the ]оор апd tjяhten, Take Sе\еrаl fastening stitcheý iп the fаьгi( at the end of the cbain, If it is а beit саrriеr. rl..rt chain с,п eitber bodice ог skiTt side of B,aistline seam and fiпish оп the opposite ýide.


DET\ ILs тнлт

coaNl - о тяаfi

a,lsт-Dлr]vсý

lo0pý

FаЬIiс loops сап Ье made at hоmе, oI coTd оr faыic loops in а iопg strip сап often Ье obtained Notioпs от тrimmiпgs depaltments. То Mako

,8 pl

Fabic Loops

whеп loopý ате spaced ýоmе distance араrt along the edge of an opening, tbey ате uзually cut in

strip of Jaъlic. (See радiё 29 fоI True Bias.) With dght ýides together, fold it lепgthwisе. stitch аý shоwп, Strctching the stlip slightly. Тгim seam. At опе епd fasten а thlеаd ýесuгеlу аs shown. Attach thrеаd to а bodkin and work bodkin and

cut

а t}ue bias

thrcad thfough the fabтic tube, aently tumiJtg the ъiаs inside очt.

Method 1

2

sepaTate loops. 1 cut the necessaTy пчmЬеI of loops in the соrгесt size foT thе buttoný. 2 MaTk loop plaeement on а ýtTip of рарет snd зtitch

3

Stitch loops and paper to the opening. Pull paper away, Fасе oI biпd opening to coveT loop €nds. Threail Loop$

Ь.

cut а tтue bias ýtrip. At one end attach co[d, Riяht sides togetheT, fold bias oveT cofd. Uýing cordjns: or zipper Toot оп machine, ýlitch bias оч.r

coTd, Ве careful not to catch coTd in Stitching. Gently pull coтd to tum bias inside out. То Make Соrdеd

Fabric Loops

Дttасh а small cold to а tаrgеr cord securely. 2 cut а trче biaв stтip. Attach to one end the same end of the small cord that is Jastened to the lагgет one. Right sidёs togetheI, fold biяs stlip oveT the smýll cord. Uýiпg cording от zippeтfoot оп ma.hine, ýtitch, being caTeJul not to саtсh in the coId, Tlim Еезm. Dгаw Emall cold through the bias stтip, turпing the stтip and pulling the laтgeт соrd into it. 1

These ате similaT to thread еуеý but ате lа?gёr. Meaýuтe the size of the button and maIk the loop locations opposite the buttoný. Sew seveTal stгands of thтead on the edge of the op€ning:. WoIk buttonhole oi blanket stitch over the ýtтands, uýing needle еуе fiTst. 'rogý

Decoгative fюеiý mау ье made of соrd, soutache bвid or of coTded biaý stIips of fabric. (See Согdеd I-oops opposite.) Make the flog whateveт shape you like, secuтing each ýuccesýive loop with smаll ýtitches. Attach to aarment leaving опе loop fTee to extend beyond edge and over button. ror making th€ chineýe ball buttons that are often used vith fIоgs, see Dаае 106. liпgсriе sl.аp

FabTic ог coTd loops lor faýteпin8 ove. buttons may Ье attached to an орепiпg in опе coпtinuous ýtтip. Measurc сагеfчllу wheтe the buttoпs ате to go and plan а loop fоr еясh button. Make а tтialloop and t€st it with the button fоr согIесt ýize. The 1оорs mау Ье sеrрп Tight оп the edae of the opening от back slightly fTom the edge. Uýe small stitcheý Ьеtwееп each loop to atta€h them.

а piece of tape от libbon. гold in half стоsзwiýе, and Sew опе half to the shoulder Sеаm line, baving the looýe hal{ tоwsгd the ýhоuldеI. sew опе half of а sпар to thё fastened end of ribbon. Sew the otheт hrlf to the looýe end.

cut

1о,


zlppers ZippeTS аrе easy to put in _ so easy that it .an Ъе done witbout basting and, with а bit of pTactice, not е!еп рiпS. But if you 1vish to pin оr baste, there iS по reason why you shotrld not do ýоТhоugh moýt zippels ате put in Ьу machine, in many custom_made dгеSSеs and Suits the}, аrе pLlt in Ьх hand and this is often ргёfегIеd fol knitted faЫics, pile fabricý and SheeБ ý\rch aS chifion. Smlll back ýtitches, evenly pIaced and c]ose together, ale used. ch€ck youl pattem €пчеlоре for the corrcct length of the zippel needed iп the gаrmепt, Ве sчrе to buy thiý length because it is the a,eýl length for the intended usе. And Ье Sure to rnake the p}acket the length directed Ьу th€ patteгn. Newest skift, dтeýý апd neckline zippers аIе made with ýynthetic coilS rathel than meta] teeth. These аrе particulally light and flexibie and аIе plactically Sпаа-ргооf. Should а thгеаd ог а gагmепt Ь€ caught in the coils, the zippeт is simply folded acIoýS its width,and easi]y pul]ed араrt, Teteasing whatevel hаs caught. close ziDper ЬеfоIе ]aundering oIdry cleaning gaтment. Always рlасе cloth over zipper whеп ргеssiпg,

zipper applications There аrе two gепеIаi typeý of zippe| applicationý: In s ]apped sеаm, or iR а Slot ýеав, Baýicallý all Iapped Seam applications ате similal. аs аf€ ail зlоt seam applieations, The vaгiations аrе miпоr, bu| because of them, some ffnd one method еаsiег tban апоthеr. Тгу thеm all if you аге а Ьеgiппеr апd see which уоu ffnd easiest.

lapped seam applications Thiý type application is uýed on dгеsý plsckets, skiIt plsckets and the long back орепiпg о{ а dress.If the fmnt зеаmаilоwапсе is tess than %" wide, extend it Ьу stitching sеаm tape along th€ edge. Before ýtarting the application, baste placket edges togetheт on ýeam line and pless seam open.

Method а Вhохп iп а d,fеss placket)

l

Р]асе ciФed zippeI face dоwп on the back веаm al]owance ontU, with the edge of the metal teeth ог Synthetic coil against the sеаm tine, The bottom stop should Ье at the bottorn of the Dlacket. With edge of рIеSSеI foot against chain, ýtitch tape to back Seam allowance, ýtitching f|ombottom to top. cheek position ечеrу inch oI So to sёе that edge is гight along Sеаm lin€. (At the pull tab at the top the ýtitchin8 mау ýiide off the tape, but it makeý по ditrerence-] Remove рrеsýеr foot and put zippel foot on machine. Тчrп zippel face up, Make а small fotd iп Ьа, k 5еsп аllоцап, е close tU 7ippFr .hаiл, Рrеýs to get s shаrреdgе. Stitch fold tozippeгtape, Тurп zippel face dоwп очеr front seam аllо!чапсе. А Sma]] pleat lvill fоrп at bottom and top of f]ack seam altoч,ance,l Stitch through att :hicknesses асrоSs bottom, up the side c]ose to .|air.rra ac.qrs top. Pr:-. ,::1 iз.; ..2Ф a]]o!va.ce and ,еmо!е the

lоt

3


1,2

Method с (shофп iп а dfegs placbet) т!тп Dпdег the back seam allowance the seam line and ргеsý. With zippel face up, pin tчгпеd edge to zipper tape close to chain, Uýing zippeт foot, stitch edge to tape fгоm bottom to top. Turn zippeI face down оп fгопt 8eam allowance. Stitch acIoss lоwег end and up to top. Rеmочё machine-basting and DIФý.

sIOt ýеаm application 1,2

This iý used in center back plackets of ýkitЬ, in loпg сепtеI back openings of dIeýses, in unfaced neck openings and in ýleeve openings, Дs in tapped ýеаm applications, machine-bast€ the ýеаm togetheT and prcss ореп.

MethoiL а lsholl|,D iп а shitt .епtеl Ьасh placket) Ореп zippeT andplace face dоwп оп one seam altowanee onty,with edaeof teeth огсоil atseamline. Using zippeтfoot, ýtitch tape to ýeamallowance, Sргеаdgагmепt outflat, wrong side up. close ziрр€г. (centeT ýhould Ь€ face down on seam tine. ) Stitch thlough all thickneEses down опе ýide, acloss bottom and up the otherýide. PIesý апd Iеmоче machine-basting.

Method Ь lshou,n iп песkuпе орвпirr!1) Follow steps 1 and 2 in Method А. Fold gaTment mаtёriаl back out of the way and ýtitchthe other tape oJ the zipper to theother sеаm alloq,ance only, having teeth оI coil at зеаm line. close zippeT апd spт€ad gaтment out ffat. Stitch thrоuяh alt thickllesseý down опе side, acтoýs bottom and uр other ýide.

for а faced neck орепiпg 1,2

Гiтst apply th€ facing to the neck opening and

then slip-baste the opening edges togetheL l Ореп zippeт. on Wrопа ýide of siaTment, place zippeT fa.ce down очет ýlip-basted opening. Тчrп uпdег top endý of tape. Hand-baste опе tарё to the opeвing, having edge of chain against edge oJ siip-bast€d openingi. close th€ zippeT апd tuTn garment to right side. With cloвed zippeгlying {iдt чпdеrth€ line oJ орепiпg, Бtitch аrоuпd zipper, using zippel foot. 4 Рrеsý апd Temove stip-baýtina.

109


separatang zipper application Before Starting the application, check the width of tbe opening seam allowance. If lesB than 5/s", stitclr sеаm binding to еасЬ edge. Оп outside of jacket facing, maтk а chalk tine 7Е" {rоm edge, (Thiý wi]i Ье Уа" beyond the 5/i"

Finish hemý of gaTment and of facing s€parately; ог, lаtеI, join hеm edges of galment and facing before facing is tumed inýide in instтuction

3 beiow. 1 Оп ou fýrde о{ facing, place the paItially орепеd zipper face up with the edge oJ the teeth along the chalk line. The top of the zipper ýhould Ье whеrе you want the орепiпg top to Ье. Using ziррег loot

2

3

on machine, stitch alongýide the teeth. Repeat with other edge of zippef оп оthег facin}{. If а gагmепt has а collar, attach it to necklin€ now, Тh.п, ь i'h гishl :idea 1оgрlhрr, pli.P la.jng оп garment and stitch to песНiпе only. Do поt catch_ iп the top of the zippel tape, If hems wеIе not fiпishеd previousiy, join bottom edge of facing to bottom edge of jacket. Tfim and c]ip neck]ine sеаm allownnce. Tufn faeing to inýide. ТчIn iп and ргеss the ýепm ]owance оп the fTont еdgе ofjacket. on inýide, рlасе edge of zippeI teeth along flont edge of gаrmепt. Pin от bastei thеп ýtitch close to teeth uзiпg ZippeT foot, Repeat оп other edAe.

trочsеr fly application These instluctioný ale fol йеп's tlоusеrs which close fгоm left to гight, FоI women's slacks, hich close flom right to teft, substitute "fight" Whelever instluctiOnS rе:id lelr, and gubýtitute "left" where they Iеаd /rgЛt. First join the ffont crotch sеаm as fаI as the tower епd of the орепiп€. and back Stitch. Interface left flу. Fасе right ily, leaving uncurled edge and

Иrith riяht Sides together, stitch ]eft fiу to left fTont edge. PIеSS toпard opening. ЦIith zippel c]osed, р]асе it face dоwп очеr outside of flr, edge of tape aiong fiy Seam line. l ,i.lg z'po, г i ,,l, c,it,, ,losp lo Ziлг"r .hai1 on left jide ol tape. Stjtch again about У!" frоm

-L.: ."]. :,.:,ijjdt rпd press, Baste in р]ас€ аlопg +i- i. : .iý.,]r,,. T"p,stitch as basted. Ьеiпя

11о


flont opening edge pIess uпdеr Ъ", clippinri cuтves. ореп zippeT, pin and baste right frоп, .Jgё о\рr 7,lrlrFг lapF.locР to.haln, 6 Baste Tight flопt edge of trousers over long ореп

5 on Tight

sid€ ol right fly i/B" from edge. Uýin8 ziррег foot, top-Stitch thюugh }lt thicknesseý,

to сцt down а trolsel zipper Because fly openings in trouseTý and slacks vaтy in length due to vaтiations in the cut of tfouseTý апd in the measuTenents of thеfiguге, the zjррFг mву Ье,оо lопg fоr ihF орFпiпя, Tb.Ul iI off. pull the ý]idet dom below the waisttine Seam. Дррlу опе edge of the \raistband. Тhеп, Ьеfоге tuтning thе band fol completion, cut off the excess tape at the,Waistband Sеаm allowance. Whenwaistband i. , nтpl"ltd ;l аtl{ а. а ,op_ýtop fол z'ррег.

plackets 1,2, з

Although most plackets today aгeclosedwith zippers, this is not done in infants' clotheý and not often in the Seam of а knife pleated skiIt, The plackets used in these two garments аrе аý followý: lor inlantý' cl0theý S]ash the mateтial the dеsilеd tength of placket. 2 At bottom of slAsh clip diagonally fог %" at 1

3

Tuln undey %" оп slashed edges апd tum

tгiangulaT point to о&hrdе. 4 Тuгп edges uпdеr fог Уr'i fofming pleatý, and 5 Lap edsies and pin. Stitch а squa.e at lоwег end of placket through al] thicknesseS, 2,з

tor а pleated slirt

l

2 Make pleats. 3

Pui

the desired depth of placket. edges in bias sеаm binding. bound odges of the placket.

111


collars & песkliпеs

ВаýiсаIу theтe аrе but thTee types of collaTs: Flat, Tolling оI standing, AS between flat апd Tolling, the пеагеr the coltal neckline аррlоасhеS the сuIvе oJ the gaIment пёсНiпе, the flatteT it will lie; and

conveтsely,thestlaighteTthecollaтneckliпe,themoIeitwillTol1.oneexampleoftheflstco]]дTisthe еч€r_Dорulаг

Peteт Рап; of the Iolling со]lаг, the Shawlj of thc standing col]aT, the mandarin,

pOints t0 rеmепЬоI

Always stay-Stitch the garment neckline befoтe дlwачý c]ip the rialmeDt ne.kline Ье{оI€ attaching а collar so collaт sеап ]ine can Ье matched to neckline seam line. Дlwауs теmеmЬет that if you have alteтed the garment neckline to mаk€ it lalsier оr Smаllег, you muвta]So alteт the col]al. (Fоl instIuctions,

Tuтn front (оr back) Jacing extensions oveт the со]lаг, Baste Ьiдs facing strip to neckline edge о\рг.оl]аr, le!ling i] е\tепd Ut.г edgc ol "ac,ng extensions. Ease bias ý]ightly so outel culve will lie flat. Stitch. TTim seami clip curves. PIeSs Seam toward facing дпd understitch thюugh facing and seam. (Sce page 26 JoI UndeTstitchinli.)

see page 21.)

Aiways undeгStitch а faced collal to get а shP rp l J гпрd cdgp. Ап рssу way l о do l\iБ is: r.irst. stitch collaт and facing togetheг along

оutеr edge but lot at the ends, Ртеýý ýtitched S€дm toward facing; then tuIn rтогk to fight Side and undelstitch cloge to Serm line thюtlgh fncing and sеаm edg€s, staтting and Stopping about 1" fIom the ends. Einally, fold co]laT оп seam and stitcb the ends. Always. aftel stitching and tuIning а ýhaped .ollar. fold in hatf and сhесk to make sule ъоth ends аIе exlctly the Same length and Shap€. Alwayý match nalkings of.ollar to m.rlkings of neckline collal ends matching ccnter Jlont ог back maтkings, and dots оп collaf necklin€ matched to shouldeT seams. Alwa!: еJgе-st,|гh ]hF long lппоl, Г",] FJge of а shaped faeing 1/а" in fтom edge. Thcn tч}'n uпdег on stitch€d line апd stitch again.

flat collars

:!:a:JE Еi aа.:..

.g!i

l12

Т.-.:;;.Ё!

to attach Yiith shaped

This is shovn with 'acing а divided co]iaf-

'

The flat, shaped collar mау Ь€ Smalt оr laтge, in опе piece оr divided, as shown in the illustTations. The dilided соllаг jS geneтally found on drеяýеs оr blouses with а back openjna. Г|а| , оllагs Jгр Lc lally pU, оп with l bia. lacins slгiр, but а shaped facing may Ье used, The two r{T!ions of the di!idod collaт аге tack€d togetheг .:.b.-:l .r!rt.r hд.k от.епtеr frопt, ,vhicheveг :. r,,:ie riEn'aP. bfore being attached,

tlrd-oIaфi

ТuIп bias fлсiпg and Iacing extonsions to inýide. Тuш under raw edge of biaý facinei апd Slip-stitch о!еr senm.

с,::]а., ]ea.inE пфk edae Р,. ..&.:.:,, песk]iпе,

Intelface and Jас€ thе collar. leavinE neck еdяе open.'Iurtl and ргеss. pin оr basto to nccktino with opening edees of соl]ат дt seam ]ine of

Join fTont and back sections of Shaped facing. Pin over.o]lar, miI,,hiпg lh, opening cdgrs, Stitch, trim and c]ip the ýeam. Undeгýtiteh.

Right Sides together, ýtitch facina ends to gsтmепt ореliпg edgeý in а 7s" ýеаm. Trim соIпегs; trim lиr7.g Seam only. Tuln facing inside. PIеSS. Tack to Shoulder


1!

,lr.iU ,r.f .*ф-nlkaa-

rolling collars

i*

Tum facing and чрр€г с.Ла. iЁ !ld* ir.sеаm ]ine at neck edae of чрF.. ttёý i|rf along back neck ýеаm. $'hёп ]yfu"i в '{ Ь.{ р. rаw edge of collar апd facina ý]I] Ь бdr{' оп а Blause о| Dfess on а blouse ог dress, the uпder-eo,Ilr. i! rý * piece апd the iпtёгJасiпg iý a(ached rб t}. вrr*, col]al and facing inýtead of to the uдd..,.!r!." 1 Join the uпdег,соllаr to the neckline: triln ý.

З

collar

shawlcollal сirсч]аr r0|l collar shawlcollal Roltiпg collars include the becoming сопчеrtiЬlе, found on so mапу Shiгt_like Ыочsеs and dTeýýcý; the Бhаwl, used оп jackets, coats, dтesses and blouseý and the circulaT Iotl that is Softty flattering, сOпyеrtihlе соllаr сOпyеrtihlе

2 Join сепt€I

facing.

back sean of чрреr еоllsг дпd

3 Lap lt1d l;t, h."пl"r Da.k sраm of iпtегfвсiпs and tгim зеаm close to stitchi пg.

ýt'ъ

lhe coпve{ible collar

Thiý is juýt what itý паmе ;mplies deýigned to Ье wотп ореп от closed, It сап Ье put on with от without s backfacing, but is gепегаilу dопё witho I. D.lailý of i'.,,опsIru.iiоп агс Бhоwп in the demonýtration of Маkiпя а Blouýe. pages 41to 47. tfto shawlcollar

тhе ýhawl colla. conqiýls uf l цл рагIз (1) Ап undef-collaT and a2) An uppel соttаг cut in one with the fгопt facings. :

lrtat

Machine,baste iпtеrfасiпg to wrong side of uрреr coilal and front facing %" fTom edges, ТIim intedacing cloýe to ýtitсhiпя,. Tilгn чпdеr and stitch the ýeam а]lоwапсе оп the long

The undel_coilal sectioný аrе joined ,t сепtеI back, as аrc the inteTfacing sections. The uпdеI_соtlаI is then attached to the песиiпе and the ýеаm рIеsýеd ореп- Тhiý Dгосеduте iý simila. to that outlined in thе demonýtгation making the Shot coaq pages 60 to 69, and iпýlru.liогý оп Tailoriтg. раяр l4?.гопliпuе

back seam of uppe. соllат алd facing

Right sides togetheг, pin uppeT соliаг апd faeing to under_collaт and fTont, matching сепtеr backs апd dots. Stitch. Тrim Sеаm and сотпеrs; clip счIчеs andintoinner corneT of течеr. Тuгп facing апd uррег collaт to inýide and plesý. SIjp-titch uрраг.о|lаг о\еr back пд k seam. ciIculal lollcollar ThiB cotiar is cut аý а bias stTip апd attached with s ýhaDed fасiпя as follows:

a'ф е<. ý /-ф-_ý_*Ф,,)

Rigbt sides together, pin uppeт collar and facing to jacket and uпdет_со]lаг, matchj ng сепtеI backs

and dots. Baste, еаsiпg uppeт collal to fit between dots. Stitch; tlim Seam; clip счrчеs,

*z^

Machine-baste interfacing to wTong side oJ collaт. Trim intelfacine c]ose to ýtitching. То hotd intelf5cing iп place, inake long Tunning stitches ]esý t}ап half-say lo Ihc српlеr. .Whрп .ollar iý finished, these stitcheý wilt Ье on the underside.) Join endý of collaт and prcSs sеаm ореп. WroDg sides togethal, {o]d coilar in half lengtbwise and mасhiпе baýte rаw edges together,

1lз

-lадý]


coLL,lRs AND NEcxLINEs

З

Оп oLltside, pin соllаг to neck edge, matcbing centel {Iопts and Ьасks and placing the ýmall dots at the Shоu]dег seams. Baste, easinci collaT to Iit.

2

Right sideý to8ethei, pin colla. to neckline malching сепlFг гrолls and backý and pla.ing

dots at shоutdеr seams. З Тufп {Iontfacings to otltside ovel collal. 4 Rightýides together, join Jrontand back neck facings at shouldeIseamý. Pinfacings toneck еdg€ and Stitch to neckline tЬгоlgh att thickneýseз. TIim seam andcolnels; clip culves.

4 Join fтont and back neck facings at shouldeT sеаms. Siitch %" tгоm long nnnotched edge and prcýs edse uпdег along the Stitching. Stitch in place. 5

Тuтп fасiпяs to inýide and tack to бboulder seams. the straight tie collar

5

Right sides together, pin facing to neck edge,

matching centerS and ýhouldeT seams. ý Siitch песt edgP, тrim dFami c]ip.uryer, IlndeIstitch the fасiпя. 7Тurп facingto inside. Ргеss. Tack facing to seams.

standing collars

This соllаIсап Ье applied to any dlеss oIblouse that has а tapped {ront c]osing and а basic Ieяulation neckliпe. Fоr а паттоw tie collar, cut fabтic about 40" long апd в%" wide, z-{--

Some о{ thезе ате attachedwith atacing and Sоmе аге putdiгectly onto the neckline. the sha!ed mапdаriп c0llar

ТчIп fIont facing oJ aalment to outside. Stitch it to neckline as Jar as center fTont. TIim sёаm, clip neck edge whеге stitching ends; tцr.rr Jacing to inýide.

ТЪе inteгfacin8 used in these collaIý should ье

f.{€ the соllаг. Тгim s€аm. clip 'з.сd.Е!.зс.дd рв. ьrte .йrr.,:еrп

rrr.ф,

,rl

Right ýides togethel, pin опе edge of collar to neckline matching centeт backý. Stitch between the clipS,


Rightsidestogethel,foldendýinhalf ]engthwise,

tha shaped facing

Stitch ends. Stitchtong edgeý up to whеrесоliаr joins neckline. Backstitcb to ho]d. Тrimýеап and соrп€Is. ТuIл гight side out. Тчrп чпdеr ýеаm allowance оп гemaining raw edge and ýtip-Btitch oveт neckseam.

Thiý iý madeandput ontoanecklinein the ýаfiе wау it iý done fof the Сirсч]аrRоll Соllаr descтibed оп ра8е 11З. lhe tias facing

See inýtluctions чпdеI

Flat couaв, psge 1l2.

slasi The pattern will indicate whеге thе орёпiпg зlаsh iý to Ье. Befoleslashing, apply theraciпgaý

the fal0d

detachable eollars Theneckline edge ofa detachдble collaт Бhоuld Ье stay-stitched оп theseamiine, then tIimmed to 7а" andelipped.It is then boundwith а bias ýtTip oI Iеаdу Tnade bias binding (See Bindings, page 130). Baste от Snap-fasteD it to the inýide of the gaTment neekline, single thickness c0llarý

Тhеве aIe o{ten, thоugh not necessaгily, detachable and used oveт an attached cotlar. The outeT edge mау Ье fiпished otr with а biдding, а piping оl lасе edging. Attaeh ýuch а соIаI

Piace wrong ýide of соllаг to rightside ofneekline. Рiп oveт ita shареd facing ог а bias stTip about 1%" Wide (оI use Teady-made biaý bindina), with Iight Side of biaý от facing against the collaT, Stitch. TTim andlayeгthe sеаm. Undelstitch. Тurп bias oTfacing to inside, Press апd heminplace.

i

Right sides together, рiп Jacing to gaTment over thё ýtash location. Stitch {acing to neckline edge сопtiпuiпя down the fTont }{" frоmсепtет,

алd l.ареriпg 1о а po;n1 at lоwеr end оГ орепiпg. Take опе ýtitcb ас!оýs point Ьёfоrc ýtагtiпg alongthe second side, Stitch а seeond time around th€ point uýing а ffne Btitch. 2 Slaýh between the ýtitchёd tineý all thе way to the Doint. Тчпr faeing inýide; pтeýs; tack invisibly to ааImепt. the cardigan fa.ing

Thiý facinaiS applied во it iS visibleonthe яaтmentoutside and folms acardigan band,

finishes for uncollared песkliпеs Necklines withonteollals ат€ eitheгfaced от bound. BeJoIe doing either. ýtay-Stitch th

l ,{,

4{р

Д ГАсiпg раllеrп, Бhареd |о fft that рагliсulаr пэсkliпе, mау Ье iцФudеd in_y_o,u_T pattem. Оп low_.u! пё.kliпFý thе гдсiпя wiu Ье tound то Ьс ДЁ!_SlЦЦllу sщLlет tЬзд.!hе neckline, ацdthе ,цЦЦ!gii llЦдФd tфsgачеq_L"_фч ф_"_iцс. W hеп lhis is dопе, l he low neckline hUgS l he body

."й, "]uй, а ýhареd facing

йБ!"rйrу

";

4р,;.йй-

раttегп isnot uýed, the fa.ingstlip should Ье cut onthebias.If the neckline edge iS to Ье bound, eitheIwith leady-made binding от binding you make yoursetJ, ýее Bindingý, page 130. when bindinsithe insideculve oJ а neckline, ýtгеtlh the biaý and prcss it befoTe attachina, о. ýtгetirh it ýlightly as уоu put it оп. Bindin8ý ате рrеfеIаЬIе to facings if the dTess oIblouýe

wh€п

Reinfoтce the согпегs of the flontbmdsas Jollows: Staгtin81" from the еоrпет, stitch with frпе ýtitches on the seam line to the corneT. Pivot the woтk on the needle and continue ýtithiдa foI 1" along the ýecond side. 2 ctip to the ýtitchin8 at the сотпегS. з Тurп undelandpтeýý the sеаm аllоwапсе on the Place 7rr,'r' side of bandto Uro,g sideo{ garment, matching corners апd seams. Pinandstit{hto flont edges and necНine. Тrim Sеаm; clip счгчеý; ппdегзtit h the Ьдпd. Тчгп band to outside andpin in place. Ъp_stit{h


sleeveý The coIrectfft of thesteeves iS impoItant iпthе aood look. of s саrmепt, Fоr hоw а regulation set_in should fft, seesection оп Fitting, раяеý 94 tо9б,

Pull up bobbineaýe thTeads evenly fюm bothends untit sleeve'ffts аImhоlе. Leave 1'' flat acrosý top. r.жtеп thread ends, making suтe ease iB smoothly diýtributed with nopuckers оI gatheБ. Pin to hold

týir;

е into almhote, staTting and

overlapping the stitсhiпя.

Гull-iength, Iegulation set-in sleeves ате of thl€e 1урFs,/а ] оп. piece ь iI h eibow darLc оr, L , опе-рiесФ with elbow gаthегs to givp еssс i апd, с tso.piece with uпdеrапd uppersections, ThiS last is acoatoT In the two piecesleeve, the back Seam of the top section is eased tothe undeгsection ь€twееп th€ notches above and below the elbow. It should Ье рIеýsеd oveIatailol'S hаm to shape it, Тhё fmnt ýeamofthe topsection is ýffеrсlеd between th€ notches tofit theflont ёdgеоl the undeT section.

setting iп sleevBs regulation plain slа€Ys Тhоugh one_piece and two-piece ditrefёntiy, theyafe ýet into the аrmhо]е in thе same

дt underarn

Ьеtw€еп поtсhеs, stitch again within sеап allowance. Тrim between notehes clos€ to second ';'' stitchinя.

6

а

Lightly Steam-press sleeve

ýеаm to

shlink out as

much ease аý posýible. Then lightly рIеsý seam

а shirt sleвye See step,by_step demonýtгation о{ man's ýpoтtý раgеs 7i1 to 81,

shirt,

а gathcled slвeve

Uýingabout 10 ýtitrhes tothe iпсh, makealow of еаýе stitching оп sеаm ]jпе of sleeve сар between notches. Stitch again %" frоm ]irst Tow Within seam alloq;an..

2

Join uпdе.аrm Seam an.t рrеýS open. Rightsideý l.rtthеr. pin sleele iл аrmhоlе, matching поtсhеs, !пO2г.Ф s€5пr and dot-r Place top_of_s leele ,па.k

,1в

Make two rоwý of gаthеIiпg stitcheý aroundsleev€ top between notcbes оп€ on SeamIine and ýecond about %" beyond within sеаm allowance. Join uпdегаrm seam. Right sideý togethel, pinsleev€ in еrmhоlG, matching notches, чпdеIагrп seams, dots and piacing top-of-s]eeve mаrk to shоutdег ýеаrл. Pull up gatheling thleadý ёчепlуапd securc the епals. Pin tohotd ааthегs in place. Stitch. Рrёýý the seam _ towaтd the s]eeve if you want thе gаthеrs to puf upý,ald, towaтd thc shoutder if you want them to


Drfil.s 7е{7.о.ýт

Slвeves сut in 0пе with yoke Sleeveý cut in опе with а garment yoke oTwith the frcnt panel of а jacket оI bodice need rciпfогсеmепt 5t ]:ье iппеr сотпег of the uпdеIsтФwhеrе slеече and

2.pi.ce raglan ýleOve

ýteeve JTont to gагmепt front, mаtсhiпя dots, Baste, еаsiпя ýleeve to {it Ьеtween notch апd loweт smа]] dot.

Right Sides toliether, pin

Along ýеаm line оп gatment flont, pin centel of stIaight Seam binding, Stitch S€аm, clipcurves, but do notclip seambinding, Pfess seam ореп. Pin алd bJslP s]cРve b""k to gа"mFп' Ьа"}, еаsiпg sатmепt to fft between notch€s and eaýingsleeve to fft below lоw€I notcheý. Pin on sеаm binding as fоr {Iont. Stitch andclip seamand pless ореп. Join front and Ъасk of gаImепt along sleeve Seam, eaýing steele front tc, lit back between поtсhез, Join entire undelaImseam in onecontinuous

stitchins.

N'orej In а dгеss, i{ the fabric iS lightweight, taping the seam is not necessaly.

l.piece laglan ýleeYe with dalt

yoke meet. This iS dопе as follows I Fоrеасh sleevecuttwo2" bias squares ol gaTment fablic. ( If gагmепt fаЬriс is heavy, cutthesquarcs of some 1ightw€ight fabric in sаmе coloT as gагmепt.)

Right sides togethel, pin centeTo{ one sqчsгеочеr dot at iппеlеотпеr of uпdе!атm, Stitch аlопаопе seamline tocentefpoint of Sqчаге; pivot wolk on needle andcontinue stitching atong secondside. clip from the еdяе iпtосоrпеI made ьу stitching lineý. Тuгп squаrе toinsideand prcsý. Reinforce otheт half of Sleeve in ýаmе way.

guýýets То give mоте Iооm and sleeve, а gusset may Ье

Stay-stitch tbe armhote and shoutdeг edges of the steeve. Reinfolce dart in the top t}y stitching along stitchinlitines with Small stitch. Tbperýtitching toa pointat iпп€т end of lines. Slash along Slash line at

оп inSide, ыing ýtitchinglines togetheT. Pin,€ffing {топt to lit the back. Stitch. PIess seam ореп. SIll,,h Uпоеr %'.п l,,w"r {"dяр,

ona-piece

g sset

glain,

on {Tont and back uпdегатm, mаrk а slash line about в%" longi. Staltinci at undeтalm edge at centeт of cuгve. stitch %" flom mаrkеd line, tарегiпg to nothing at iппеI point. Slазh between stitching.

stay ýtitchingalona culveý belownotches. Right SideE together, pin slеече to gaтment flont and back, eaýing ýleeve and garтent 3 Join qussёttо s]ashed edges, taking а У2" ýеаm оп gusset and tapering {тоm % " to nothing on backtofit. Stitch. тотёiпfоrс€, Stitch agaln. clip счrчеs; ргеss seamý open.

clip аrmhоlе edges

о{ sleёve to

117

_ýarErtjs


two.pioca gшsýet

1

То

rеiп|опе соlпеl,

eut

foul 2" bias ýqua.es,

to паkе а gшssat раttern

-5

Оп гightside ofbodicefтont, pin сепtеI of опе square оч€I point whele slash stitchinglines meet,

Stitcbalongthelinesthгouahthesquare,pivoting the woTk оп the ne€dle

2

at tbe point.

to loweT Tight сопеr. Оп Ьо,lоm edge. Tark 1 ' iп Гrоm lрГt соrпет, on fight edge, mаIk 1" dояп flom top corner, 1 Frоm uppeт leJt, whеrе top and leJt ýide ýeamlines mect. mедýчrе аlолс disgолаI 2J s" дпd mагli. Frоm the 1" maiký оп right апd bottom edges, dIаw а curving line thru the 2Уs" mагk оп the diagonal, Cut the рарег оп this cuтved line. As уоuг patteIn, use the telt hand alea оf the cut ýquale -the рагt that haý the irsrd€ eulve, cut 4 pieces of fabTic with l€ngthwise grain mnning рагаllеl to uppeT еdяе.

sleeve finishes

То turп the point.

а slash Ьеtwееп stitched tjпеs thе зау to, but not thfоugh,

IfyouT pettern doeB not call foT а gusýet and you would like to uýe one, а patte.n fоr а 2_pieee auýBet is nade аý followý: Cut а5" squаге о{раре!. Mark а %" sеаmllпеаюuпd the ýqчаr€ апd dтaw а disgonal line flоm upper]eft

alt the pojnt,

Ь TuTn the squale thтoughthe зide of яаImепt and presý.

ор,пiпg in long slooye

Тhеrеаrе ýечеrаt methodý of ffnishing the opening of а lопя slea\ р ч hj.h ib lo \а\ р а cufr attached. Fоr а fдced орепiпg, ýее page 46i foT а shirt slеече, раg€s

79_80,

Themethod deselibedhere is cal]ed a "continuous ptacket" апdсап Ье used iп plackeb ofgдthercd ýkiTtý andchitdTen'ý dresýeý аБ well as in sleeves.

еdgеБ of Slash to wтопя side, ь

stitch оп the mafked ýlanted ]ines of the sleeve орелiпg, Slaýh through сепtеI between ýtitching. cut stгaight gгаiп ýtrip 2" wide and twice the

ýlaSh l€пgth.

3Та a

l

\{s.k dots and Seam ]jnes оп fight l:l,ц,riпЕ sid€ of slash oler riaht ýide of guss€t. !'i: i]з.. ;L:.: !. surlei point and . чi..i Ti гi:Ii.-!: ! ]1 ц::.: r:\9: lta:::( i.rdj.e

llg

Pin йfоrlg sid€ of орёпiпg to пgl.' side of ýtrip.

на!дЬпltоп"dsрБечельul рiпроiлtоIорспiоg

1/l"


aar.raj

Sleeve ýide чD,lay in а stгаiяht liпе, FoIdextтa fabric out of \r,ay and Btitch ya" fTom Iap edge. At point, stitch again tоýtIепяthеп.

М€rйоd

'alraErý,

- ýr.rýуБý

Make cutr. Whip ends together and bAste to toweT edge of ýleeve on outýide, Baste bias оп top of счtr, joining biaý ends. Stitch. Тum чпdеr fгее edge of bias andh€m очеI ýеаm оп inside, Turn cuff Ь,

чепt sleeve

on Taw еdgё of lap, tuгп and рrеsý У4'' to иfр.19 ýid€. Tbp-stitch turnededge оч€т Seam.

Tbis орепiпg оссuгS оп а two,piece ýlеече in а .oaf оr ja.kef. Eirql, join ,hp s]ёАче spams, lеs\:гg bacl Sеsm opcn bёlow .оrпсг of ечlFпsiоп. Fiпiýh opening $ fol]ows:

Turn lap to ?rrong side апdрrёss. stitch the two sideý togetheг diagonelly at the point. puffed sl0eve with 0lastic

i

clip tосоrпегiп undeт sleeve. Pless ýeamopen above clip, Tum extension on чрреI sleeve section to inýide дlопg fold tine forming hem,faeing. catcb-ýtitch jппет edge of hem-facing in place.

Гiniýh Iоwеr edge with hеm oI facinsi wide enough fo. elastic. Leave орепiпg at underalm ýеаm. Edge-stitch thе lower €dяе. Iпýеrt elastici lap апd sew endý together secufely. sleava with tшtn0d back сшfi

Turn Merrod о, Stitch lightside of cuf to wTong ýide of sleeve, mаtсЫпа ýеаmS. Тurп undel the 1ree €dgе of cutr. Fold счtr to outside;hem to seam ýtitchine. Тчтп cuff to outýide and tack еdяе to undeTafm ýeam

loweI edgeofsleeve to fотmhеm, tuтning in епdБ of€xtension. Baste, catch-stitch hem in place. Slip stitch ends of hеm, ýlantingthe endon the чрреr sleeveso itrrill not sьоw оп outýide. Lap орепiпg of uppelsleeve section overundel Sleevёand рrеýS. Sewbuttoný on outýide thгough a.ll trp

119

]

/


pOGkets If уоuг patteтn calls fог а poeket, tbe instluction sheet lviil give full diгections for making it, But sometimes уоч mау want а pocket in а gament pages will Ье о{ help at sчсh times.

rл7hеп

попе iS given in the pattern, and the following

patch pockets Тhеrе ате many ýhapes and sizes of theýe _ squafe, гeetangllaт, сuтчеd at the lover corners, pointed ,t the сепtеi of the lоwег edge and they тапае fтom quite small опеs оп а child'ý 8аImепt to епоImочS capacious ones оп а full length coat fоr an adult. Some аrе lined] some аrе ffnished with flaps. Whаtечег kind of patch pocket iS invotved, the gеп€rаl method оf making and attaching to the gar-rnent iý the srmе, То help you cut youl own pocket patterns whеп needed, heTe аrе some ачеrаgе dimensions io uýe аз gj!еп оr tn паkе Iаrgеr ог sma]ItT as desiIed. The dimensioný ате given wilbu and you should usuatty a_id %']_ 94_!iq9F 1пЦ ]о]цql_еd8с_!о! !Ъеýе. Bfell-gt Pockets оп Blouseý, Dfesses, Jockets Иrdrr., Flоm ЗУr" tо 4%", dependin8 оп the

Ргоm В,5/s" tо Э1" PLUS а hem-facing at 'e]rfr] the top of ffom r%" to 1%" wide. Lafge Potch Pockets оп Соаts of Skirt} Widrr., FIоm 8" to 9Уа". Л€?rrlr., Fгоm 8" to 10" PLUS а hem-facing at thё top of about 2". Patch Pachets lLt Lolnef Еdgе о| Оl,еfЬlоusе These аrе made with squаIеd соInегs and attached just above the lorrel edge о{ the b]ouse. и/rdtn., About 6". ДЬопt б", PLUý а hem_Jдcing at top 'e,rrrr oJ about 1%". tIаldп8 p|ain patch pocftets а_

LТ_ri!ц

clip

cu

of hеm-fаgiпя and sеаm alio]цance" es jlt v'з 11р to the stitching.

Тurп hem_facinя

inside and Dгеsý. PrpssJear4

atiolY_aoge ta. iдý_Ц9,

Pocket a,ith Rоuпdеd, LouJef соfпеrs

Ь. Pocket 1|ith Squared Loujer Corner| Fоiiоw jnstructioný 1 апd 2 foT pocket with Tounded cofnels. Тhеп miteT the соIпегs аý Shown оп раgе 92. С, Attaching Patch Pocket to Gаrmепt ТhеIе arc two ways to atta.ch а patch pocket to the gаrmепt. Pin in place апd, if necessaтy, baste.

l Ar

top PdgF.

tLгп а" lo

iпБiLI" алd stit(h,

ý

Тj= i.P .ise r0.!l_rld,.n Е.aя:.я $:r,li.s r: :.р Ф( b.п,ia.inF,.!it.h ýn!.a ?:f,ra': ta *._ ::.?

,ц)

Top-stitch iп р]ас€ close to pocket edge, Teinfolcjng top соIпеrs аý Shоwп, oR Тuгп garment to wrопg side snd B,ith small back ýtitch€S (See page 99 for Back Stikh) sew through 9,rопg Side of Ьоth gагmепt and pocket. Ве careful stitches do not shоý on Tight ýide of pФket, ThiS is а тегI gфd s,a}.if thе pocket is оп а .Фt and lbe material iз hеачу.


coUNI - PocKE?s

mаkiпg а patch pocklt

viti

1l Pa,b,el Has а НелFFос;пр

ffap

Decide on the pocket size. Then deeide the flар depth. Д good pToportion is I The flар Уа as deep as the pock€t. То the depth decided оп fоr the pocket, sdd twice the flар depth plus 1" extв foT th€ inside ffniвh. Il pocket is to have munded lоwеr соIпетý, rочпd оtr tbe colners of the flap.

з Тчгп uрреr edge down along fo]d ]iпе очег the lining. ьlаrt]лg ai tор ol hem-facin8. st;Ich dоs п .,п" side, acToss bottom and uр_оthеI side,

I| Pocket HaS а Sepafate Fасiпg 4

stitch the ýeam allowance оп top edge. ТчIn flар to outsid€. Stitch side edges оп ctip соInетs and tгim flар Sеаm.

Right ýides togethel, pin facing to pocket Stitch aTound all foul sides оп the sean l;пе. Го1 E,lhel Нрп-Fа.lпg ol SppalolP Гос;l"l

TTim ýeam. If pocket is squаrе, also tTim ofi colners. Тчrп Tight side out and press. Slip"stitch lining to hem-Jaeiпa оr facing.

TuIв flар Tight side out. This automatically

tuгпs the side sеаm allov{ances to the wlong side, Miteг the соr,пегS (sе€ page 92) aвd hem ffар

If pocket is to

Ье top-stitched

side seam hip pocket

in place, top-stitch

flap Ьеfоrе арр]уiпg to gaTmeпt. naking а |ined patch nocket Ьryе patch pockets оп coats ате usually lined. The lining is cut Ьу the росkеtраttегп but iп depth iý cut to extend only flom the bottom of the pocket to the fold line for the hem-facing оr the flap. Thus, il you want to line а poeket that iý to Ье 8" deep with а hem-facing t%" deep, cut the lining only 8" deep piuý ýeam altowance. То line, pтoceed as fotlows ;

ýеаm al]owance on uрDеr edge of

lining,

Right sideв togeth€T, baste lining to pocket, hачiпя side апd lowel edaeý even.

Thiý pocket iS eaýily put into the Bide seam of а skirt. Slacks от а coat. It ýhoD]d Ье the shsре ýhowrr in the Diagfam. то cut а pattern fог it, ачеrаgе dimenýions fotlow, and tlrese я.е given without seam allowance. The зtfai!]ht €d9€., About бУ2" lоп8I, Асfаss the top: AlJo\Il зуа." . Асfuз at uid8t porr., About 6". Leпoth l,t lonaбt Фаrt: About 10%". Тwо methods of putting this pocket iпto the Bide ýеаmаrе shown in the сопstrчсtiоп demonзtlations one in Makin8i а SkiTt (pageý 48-52) and the оthег in Маkiпg Slacký (pageý 70-73).

197


'rаtлaLs

тнлт coUNT, PocxETs

welt pocket Welt pocketý сап Ье either Straight oI Slanted, and the itiustrations shоw it s]anted. They аге uýed сhiеflу on tai]oTed suitý and coats oI on veýts. А welt pocket fоI а vest оI а suit would Ье f|om 2Уа'' to 1'' deep and,Lbout 4'' wiale; on а €oat it might Ье as iong as 7". тhе welt should hе cut fюп 1" to t%" wjde апd the length oJ the pocket opening. Add to all these measurementý the seam allowanees, The ý,elt may hаче squаrе оI Tounded uррег соrпев, Fitst baste-maIk the length of the pocket opsnin!. iп the desiled position. Then pl.oceed аý fo]iows: Fасе the welt, leaving опе long s;de ореп, Tfim Seamý, tuгп Tight ýide out and рrеSs.

Baste welt

raw еdяеS iust below

openlng,

Оп inside, pin

0 on outside, stitch uррег edge and endS of opening thгоugh galment Siip_stitch endý of 1vett iп place.

опе-рiесе Ьочпd pocket cut two pocket pieces

1"

l{idel than pocket

mагkiпg and аý long as deýiтed. Round the lоwег соInегS, with Tight side of pockёt against light ýide ol gaтment, place опе pocket piece ovel the welt, having the top edge ";" above the mагk fоI the opening, Baýte, hачiпg the basting ýtitches directly очеI the bagte maтked ljne Jot the opening. Stitch 1а" еасh зidе of this baýting line, making the uррег ýtitching line 1/s" Shorteг tban the tоwеI iine at the ends, Ве carcful not to catch_in th.

on the gal.ment, baste а ljne the desired width of th" pU, le| орелiпg. Fог I l"l po.Lel. cut ц pie.e of fаЬгiс at leaýt 1" widег than the opening апd twjce the deýired depth of the pocket plus 1". Rounct the colnel,s. At 1" below thе centel" of the pocket pieee, mагk а ]ine the Sаm€ width aS the pocket opening

Оп the baýting 1ine, slаSh thIough the pocket plele onI]/ to within %" of the епds, and flom thele, diagonally into the соrпеш, Then, keeping thе Seam allowance of tbe welt out of the way, make а aimilir sla5h along ihc marked Iinp ог орFпiпg

Right sides iogetber, рlасе pocKet over. яаrmепt with mагkеd line on pocket dircct]y ovel marked iine оп gafment. Тhе sholtel paIt of the pocket piece shou]d Ье below thё line, Baýte thтough ТlJпi Ее !чrс&.t рi€с. to th€ inýide thгоugh the qaЕ!.a, .ad b..t. it .ra{rEd tье оDел'пs.

Т-* .* il

.rd яз r! P..iri.-. 1Ь?. _rlrir|E,G '** -a Fe*r ir..* аrtlt_, ь}*.

D

Staгting at centel of one long Side, stiteh 1l" away fгоm and completel}, аIоuпd the basting, о!еrlsррiпа the stitching at the епd. srab {.л ljrte оa !9€пiпs to ý,ithin rэ" of ends and '.b.r itJiз.fitT йtФ .оmегs_


a:,:]',',,.]}

pocket iп а coat liпiпg

а.,-,.,. ,

i

Pull pocket piece through slaýh to gагmепt inside. Bring fold edgeв to meet at сепtеr, JoIming ап

inveгtedpleat. on outside, baste iп place апd press, оп oulridF of сагmgпl. sl il.h аfпUлd the орепiл8i,

IJ а coat has по pocket and you x,ould like опе, inseгt it Ь€twееп lining апd frопt ffuing on the left side. Make а patteTn like the diagTam with dimensions аs shown pluý ýeam allowanees. Счt two pieces of lining matelial; stitch to8etheT, l€aving the 4%" sid€ open. ТuIп seam allowanceý of opening to wrong ýide and Dгеýs. InseIt pocket between cФt lining and coat fаЬгiс with Jolded edge oJ lining meeting folded-back sеsm a]tolvance of pocket. Pin оthеI sеаm allowanc€ to Jacing; hem in place. Sew оthег edge to lining with featherstitch on lininяoutýide. (FeatheIýtit{h-see page 140.)

ол inýide, tum

slanted hочпd pocket Thiý iS aneatlooking pocket foltajloled gагmепts.

Baýte_mark а tine of opening on the gаImепt and cLt а binding БIriр 2" longer lhап thp opening and about З" wide. Use tbiý stTip to make ап орепiпg like а bound buttonhole. (See pageý l00-103

fоr Methods of Making Bound Button-holes.)

Тhеп ýtitch directly below the bindiпgon the outside. Гrоm lin'ng mateTiat, счt two pocket pieces thё deýiIed width and length, rounding the lоw€т согпеrS, РrеSs undel the top edge of опе piece and, lvoгking on the inside of the galment, top_stitch lhp pic.p lo lhс ]оwег edge оf lhc bindinc. Fаср lhс sр(,опd poc}et pjecc With а 2' r' depp piF.e of thё galment fаЬгiс. Lay ovel the fiIst апd trim both pieces evenly. Stitch second piece to uppel edge and ends of Ьiпdiпя only] thеп stitch both pocket pieces together.

3 оп outside, stitch

Ljпdjлg thгоugh all

underpatch pocket with flap Baste-malk а pocket opening line оп the 8аrmепt. Счt two pocket pieceý of lining mяtегiаl about 6" long апd 2" wider than tbe opening liп€. То the top end о{ еасh рiёсе, seam а 3" deep ýtrip of the gаImепt fablic. Fгоm the gаImепt fabтie cut а flар the length of the pocket opening plus seam al]owances. Fме the flар; trim sеаm; tчгп light side out and р.еýв.

Right sides togethel, place lalv edgeý of flар just above mагkеd opening, with flap tumed up towald top of gaTment. Baste in place.

Right ýides togetheI, place опе pocket piece очег gагmепt and flар with the center of the faьric stlip diгectly ovel the baste_maTked opening

]ine. Baýte. Stitch %" each side of mafking and сгоsS endý. naking ]owel row Уs" sholter than uppef rоw

Slaýh between th€ stitching to lvithin %" of the ends and clip to the сотпеý.

193


fablic foт both irocket pieces. TuTn undel the loмref €dge of

3 Ctlt а

2%]' deep fасiпg о{ Еатmепt

facings ald top-stitch to pocket pieceý with top

Pull the pocket piece thfough the ýiagh, forming а welt ovet the loweI sеаm ]ride enough to ff]l the ýрасе between the ýtitching ]iпеs. оп the outside juýt below the Welt, stitch thlousih all thicknesses. TuTn flлр dоvп aad baýte асrоБý top.

оп the inýide, рiп ýecond pocket piecel wl.ong side flst, Baýte; then stitch thIough дгоuпd entiтe pocket, Iounding

оп€ pocket рiес€, ficing side down, очеI flар just above malked openine. Рiп sесопd pocket piece, facing ýidc doM, оч€т wett just below

Pin

opening. Stitch, 1/1" frоm rаrч edges, the length of the mаIkеd opening оп the uрреr edge and ys" ýholtel at each end оп the loweT piece, l'old back the flee edgeý and ýlash betwcan stitching to within yj," of ends, then diagonatly

Рu]i pocket pieces and welt thrочgh s]aýhed opening to insidё.

flap pocket with welt ВаStе-пагk оп the gaтment outside the length of ihe pocket орепiпg, cut two pocket pieces of lining fдьIiс 1" lvider than pocketmalking, Ifpocket is fol acoat, cut the

pieceý about 7" loпei; if foт а suit, not очеr 4" long. curve lоw€т сотпегs. Cut а pocket fl5р of garment fabric the tength of the opening plus seam allowance. СогпеrS mау Ье Squared оr rounded, Fасе flap, leaving top еdgеs ореп; trim ýeam; tum and pтess. Сut а velt piece of galment JaЫic 17a" wide and 1" longei tban pocket mатkiпя.

P.isiI

tl,gеthеr, baste flар to gаrmепt п,ith a:nTdt аЬа,е m..ked opening,

rj.le_t

.ar ёiяб

flg..a,.f.a.,4lla.lp Г ":.._:r.л...,.r, ,-_'i ..! .,j{ý .а.: Ь|ФF t ý.!*:

Оп inside, turn We]t uр to ffll the gpace ends to tтiangulaт ýlashed soctionв at

pocket piece dоwп. Stitch аIоuпd ýides ot pocket. Тrim lower edges evenly.


hems Тhе perfect hem iS inconspicuous unless it is supposod to Ье а decorative feature. HemS in Skirts ате particulally поtiееаЫе when done inexpeItly and thё utmost care ýhould Ье used to епsuге that thеу lecede into the аllочег smаItпеss of the Bkiri, оf dless. АJt€I the ýkirt length haý Ьёеп maTked, turп the hеm on the malked line and ргеýS а сrеаý€. МеаsuIе gп even depth fol the hеm and cut off апу excess faЫic. Unleýs the skirt iB cut abgo]utely Straight (and mозt skilts ale not) the }oweT edge will Ье some hat fulleI than the place where it is to Ье hemmed to the skiтt. Thiý fD]Iness should Ье distributed nтound th€ ýkiтt ав evenly as possible.

tips оп mаkiпg perfect hems

how to treat skirt edge fullness

When pinning hеm in рlасе, яfэI mat.h th. seor} /rr€s. Тhеп adjuвt fullneýý between ýeamý.

After adjusting futlless, stеаIп-зhfйk with

л1

1 \(-

the iTon as mчеh of the futlnesý as possible. L thеге iý danger of the dress alýo shlinking, put hеs!у . ardL,oard Ьеtwееп hem and dress, when uýing tape оп the еdgе, wе bioý tape whenevel posýible. USe cotton bias оп cottons; тауоп оп wools, Silk and ýyntheticý. when hеmmiпя, the stitcheý put into the garment Side of the hеm Should take up onty опе thrеаd of the fаЬгiс, TeeaTdless of the type stitch Ьеiпg used. ýpecial types of hems пееd ýpeciai finishing methods. Fоrhеms inJaced openings such as jaeketfTontý, seepage 90; Fотhеms in pleatedskiгts апd 1асе dTeSSes, Seepage91. Fог hems iп sheer fabTics, See page 91.

Тhеrе аrе ditrercnt Nays of tlealing this fu]lness, dерепdjпg on the mateIial апd the kind of hеm it tequiIeS.

Using about 10 stitches to the inch, шаkе а line of ease-ýtitching аrоuпd the bottom edee, Pu]] up this ease thт€ad at intefvals to adjust the futlness evenly. With а pin, lift up } ýtitch and pu]l it gепtlу; then гереаt in another spot. Do поt pull the thleads tight. uпdеr апd If rаlч edg. jS to Ье '?.?,?.e.l ;'ritci,€d, the Stitching mау Ье used ав an еаSе thread jf done wjth 10 stitches to the inch, If гаw еdgс is to Ье соlrэlэd иifЛ lор., the ease thтead mау Ье put in and ease ndjusted bofore stitching оп the tape. оR if skirt does not have too пuсh {п]lпеSs, the stjtching dопе when attaching the tape mау Ье usеd as

slip.stitched h.m. Fог fiImlу wolen cotton, silk оr synthetics of light от mеdiчm weight. Turn uпd.г lh. гаw сссс а .ca,lL l4 'and s|itch, u.ing лЬопt 10 stitches to the iпсh. Pin in ptace. PLll up "Iit, hа, ,U adjUsl ease, Slln Slilch il. pla0o, iFоf Slip-Stitch, ýее page 99.)

125


FоI woolens, cottoný and synthetics of heavy weiяht, and fol labtics thal ravel eaýjly, Using about 10 stitches to incll. stitch атоuпd edge and pu]l uр thlead So hem litý skift. Тhеп stitch bias Sеаm tape 1/4" flom edge, casing tape slightly. Pin in plaee. Неm to gагmепt, (See pagc 99 fol Hemming Stitch.] seam-taped hеm.

tailor's hеm. Eýpeciatly good fol ieжey апd рrоЫеm {a]rгics in which hem is apt to ýhow, Using about 10 stitches to inch. Stitch аrоuпd hеm edge; then pink the edge. Pull цр ease_ýtitching. Baste hеm in р]асе about 1" fгоm edge, Тuтп edge back about Уа'' and catch to ýkilt Ьу inselting needle in undcrside of hеm and then picking up опе thlead in skirt. prcss hеm fiat ovel stitcbes. If mateгial iS опе that Iачеlз, overcast the edge instead of pinking, от apply seam tape.

catch.stitched hеm. when а flat hеm is wtnted without using tape, аS оп heavy wооtепs

ыrd othеI healy lаЪriсs, this hem serTes well. А соmmоп use is hems of coats that аrе to Ье lined_ WoIk flom left to right. Fiтst catch опе thlead iп the hem, inseгting need]e flom rjght to left, Next pick up опе thтead in the galment, inse|ting the needle brio?. thе hеm еdяе the same diýtance that the first stitch waý aalor. the edge, 'Ъkе next ýtitch iп hеm and the folloving in the gаrmепt, and So оп. Do not

pull stitches tiяht.

An ехс€llепt hеm fог galments wbich mау expect hard weal, such as chiidren'S .lathp., ЦЪгl fг"m ]ei'i lo гighl аý лollпwqi Usjng knotted thгеаd, оп the gагmепt side close lo Ь€m edce'akё a.,iI, h Ih.Uugh пгl) ol " thгеаd. Diгectl},opposite thiS Stitch оп the hem edst takQ апоthег Stitch.,{bout ri" from this .:i.: ::я Ir.]ir. rnk. а iiit(h thгоugЬ one thr.ead lock stitch h.m.

Jiie;.i tltл :hrL,uah the !ёf, п:tа ;r.!]ia :at :.+ji,,,:еr :]:" :,,,IE(t 'двj

,2с

rд l9it:

{-,:c:::-i

:i :i:. лзi


stitched edge hсп. А neat fiпiвh fоr ealges that cannot Ье rolied. TuIn edge and stitch. Тчrп

again and hеm inviýibty Ьу hand. variatioпs. а Тчrп faw edge and ýtitch. TuTn and ýtitch again. D Pink the гаw edge. Тuln up edge sпd рrеýý. Make аý mапу rows of maclrine ýtitchinя as deýircd.

narrou mасЛiле hеm. Ву uвing thе h€mmеI, the fabtic wiII Ье turned twice and stitched

cut а facing of tтue bias. (Sёе page 29 fоl тгче Bias,) Тuгп undel and ýtitch опе Bw edge. Right ýides together, stitfh the otheт Iaw edge to skirt ed8e, Ртеýý веаm open. TuTn facing to inside of ýkilt the depth of the ýеаm, fасёd hеm.

Pin alld slip-stitch in place. Fоr сiтсч]ат ýkiтtý, cut

faeing the exact зhаре of lo}veт edge of skiтb uýing th€ ýkilt lвttern япd piecing тhеrc ne4eýýary.

shell hеm.

А decoTative Iinish fol collaш, cufrs.

liпgегiе оI infantý' clotbes. Baýte а паrrоw hеm. with running stitchёý, sew hem dowTl fol about Уа"; then take two stitches ovef the ealge, dlawing the thlead tiaht. Repeat at evenly

stilrlned iеm. oJten used oir shеег fabrics whеп the hem needý "body''. cut hоIýеhаiг bTaid the dеýiгеd width of hеm. Рiп around inside of hеm, lrpping ends about 2". Shар€ !рр€г adge Ьу df.rioa tbrerd irr dg€ of bTaid алd sесчге t{& бd. о{ tlb tb.!.d 8.rte ЬоrзеЬа,ir in place. 1Ъл фrr b..id crkb bvisiЫ, iB рli.t.

l.-

lra

.d


helts паkiпg belts ,rith hacking ta malle l, pointed efLd

_

\g-

r']

zr:

аu

cV-,,_-

,G

This iS useful if you аrc shoTt of {abric апd .annot cuI а l"пsih sidЁ cnough the опе-рiфе 'ог сап Ь of а belt descтibed at left, foT the fscing difelent mateгial. 1 cut а stlaight lengthwiýe g.ain рiёсе of fаЬгiс the deýiтed width of be]t plus seam ailowances, and frоm 4" to У'lопgеI thап waiýt mеаSчr€. Point the епd, 2 cut inteTfacing ýаmе width but 1]i- зhоrtег.

Е

end in а point, Р]асе with fab c extending %" beyond point. (Il)uS. а.) Eotd one side of faЫic along point; fepeat on оthег ýide. (Ittus. ь.) Ргеss.

тIim Ьасkjпg

Unfo]d; tTim uпdег-Jоld 1,i" fTon c.ease, (Illus, с.) Refotd iп point, (Iilus. d.) Whеп fabiic is stitched to backing, pojnt wi]t Ье ýtitched down. Фацз to саljет bцking Та сате| conlpletely, cll fabric twice the width of backing plus Зr", Tu.n in ci" on опе long side; рIеýs. Рiп faыic to backing wjth untumed edge about 1]i" оl,е. thе centeL Stitch in place аlопg

Ъ coфr

опе side onl!, cut fаЬriс twice the width of the beltina plus 1l". Fold Tight Side out, rап edges me€ting in сепtег. Р]асе Jabric with lаw edges

З

Mft hine-baste interf acing to !,гопа зidе of belt fat lic. 5/," fTom Taw еdяеs, Тrjm iпt€rfа.iпа close to stitching.

stitch facina to ь€]t leaving end ореп fo! tuгпiпs:. Тгirп sезm ald еоmеrs. Тum belt and pIeSS.

4 RiEiht sides togeth€r,

сшпmеlhппd

аgаiпst belting. .ГаЬтiс will extend 1/16" beyond betting edgeý. ] Baste and edge-stitch iп place. mаkiпя bllts yithout hас*iпg

iпtеffосеd Ф|е-р;есе belt

1cut soft fаЬIiс 9" to 10" wide. the measurernent of the waistline pluý Sean a]lowances апd an oterlap. 2 MaTk at half the пеаSuгеmепt, and at this markina

а stTaight lengthwiýe grain piece of fabIie, 4" to 5" }опgеr than, and twice the width, the finiýhed belt iý to Ье, р]чS seam зtlоwапсеS. clt one end to make а point, As Sho\ln, cut iпtёгfасiпg % the fabric width and 1Уа" shогtеr. Machine-baste

cut

to wlong side of fab.ic %" Jrоm outer edge and ends. ТIim inteт{acing close to ýtitching. Stitch intelJacing to fahiic ,v8" fгоm inneт edge of inteгfacing. Тuгп fabric at StIaight end to inside, Righl ýidas lоgеlhег. гold belt :п hаlfl lcngthwiБe, Stitch, teaving end ореп. Тuтr1; press. Sew buckle al straight end; makc eyeletý in pointed епd,

int€Ifacinli

дпd at the ends make 3 Iowý of gаthегý, ( ТЬе gаthеrs at the halfway mark Ьесоmе the light-hапd side of the belt which wil] fasten at the left side. j 3Pull up 8аthёгs to desiled width. Tack Ьопiпg over gathers at frcnt еdg€ a.d right-hand side. Тurп and hеm lопg ýides; face front епd; bind hасk end оп inside, Lap fтont end очеr back, Fаstеп with hooký апd еуеý. leatherboпing (0r bOning)

cut in desjled length. Rip caýing at each

епd.

TIim

boning and опе Side of casjng Уа", curvin8 the ьопiпg ends. Tuln Dntтimmed ýide of сзýiпg очег boning end and whip iп place. beltcarrieгs

Тhf.аd, Со,fПеr. sеё Сhаiп Tack, рsgе 106, ЛаDlr. Соrr€7. Make a{abric tube (see FabricLoops, page 107). cut into pieces of desired leneth and sew sectioný oveTwaistline ýeamof dress atundelarm.

129


hindings tsindings should alrvays ]re cut оп the bias if they ale to fft smoothiy дпd Ье manipu]ated easily.

double fold hinding

This is ready-made binding, Encaýe the €dge with

the bias, having the wider fold to the undemide. Stitch ,llong the edge of the uрреr side (tbe narroweT side) and this stitching catches in the mаliпg bias strips Fold fabгic on the tlue bias. (See page 29.) MaTk width foI the stгips апd cut. Lap trro stTips so thleads of each гuп paTallel to еасh othel. Seam lvheтe the side edges meet. PIeSs s€аmg ореп and ti,im otr extendjng соrпеfs.

,//,

trench biBding .{ neat binding fоr sheel

faЫics oI lin€.erie. cut true bias б times the desired !,idth of finished binding. Fold, fight side out, thlough center length wiýe, Stitch Iaw edges of bils to fiabt Side of galment, making ýеаm 1l the width ol the folded bias. TuIn folded edge очеI gеаm and hem in placa,

making rOntinuOus bias

Use а Straight gтain Iectanglo of fablic, on wrопg side, malk а tlue bias line JIоm чррет соrпеr to opposite side (line 1 in Diagram.) Fфm this line mспsuге down о' а liglf.rпgle thelvanted depth of bias and draw а second ]ine parall€l to the ffTst. continue to measule and dlаw lines until needed length iS marked. Right Sides togethef, fold fаЬriс lengthrvise, PLrt а pin in fiTSt line %" fTom соmет, апd thIоugh second iine оп oppoýite side 7а" fгоm edge. (This establishes а seam iiпо.) Pin and stitch edges in а Уа" Sеаm. Pfesý seam ореп. Begin to cut оп the pa.t of line 1 which is поw оDоOе the stalting сотпег and continue cutting Tound and Tound on the narked ]ines.

binding ап inside cOlnel

with Iight ýides togetheI, pin bias binding to the

item to Ье bound, Stletching the bias at the согпеf, Stitch, pivoting the \,!oTk 0п the пееdlе at the comeT. tr{itег the binding at the coIn.T; then tuln to the wrcng ýide. TuIn undel the Iаw edge, MiteI at the соrпеI and hem to ýеаm,

hinding edges

hinding ап outside corner

If nlakiп! !:lolf о||п

USe а true biaý Stlip оr leady made bilý binding. Right Sides together, stitch binding to оп€ edge aS lаI as соrпег. Raise needle frоm fablic. Тuгп binding at гight angies to Stitched edge. Thiý forms а dia,aonal fold at th€ colnel. Tuln fotded binding back оп itse]f. Lоý,еI needle

th. stlm alll]ý,rn(es ,1r'th€ B,idth]. тhеп арр]у :';, rl:,,i],п:1{].. l,R a{t.t cutting the biaS, with : j': :.. : r,,,'|,,-,,.',:.hL,ln,llngToF.lg.inn -j-, l ,:. r,:,; , ,;, .:r,I Т lr:l l,ilding "i,еr ,js€: !:.f t. Jeam,

into bjnding at соIпеI, ]etting thrcad extend очеr fold. stitch second side. PTess binding toв,ald edgeý, pinnina the mitel to hold it in place. Тurп binding о!ет edge, fоImiпg miter on wlопg SjdP, ТuIп гаw edge undel and hem in place.

single fold bilding

I| fеаdц-паdе biпding iS used, open out опе fold and with lilrht sidcý together, Stiteh to edge to Ье bound. !'otd bindjng очеI thе raw edge to wlong biлdrng,, eut true bias 4 times th? dеSjгеd Nidth of finiShed binding. PIeSs under,


рiрiпg апd facing Ready-made coTded piping mау Ье puTchased in а wide range о{ colorý and it makes яп attтactiv€ finiýh оп edges of collaN, cufis, pockets от necklines. But it is egsy to make your оwп plain от eoтded piping of апу desircd fabric. facingscallo!ý

Dlai! piping and lасiщ in one

А good finish JoT

а n€ckline,

а tTue bias ýtriр of fabтic. РrеSý the €dges uпdег, making the tuTn on the lowerfotd twice as deep ав the upperfold. Tum under the edge that iý to Ье piped. Place

cut

vrong side of pipilg agsinst wrong side of edge ýо piping extёnds Ьеуопd that edge. Pin (оI baste) and stitch thIough all thicknesвes. corded piping апd lacingin опе

With Tight Sides together, baste а stnight gтain piece of JаЬriс to tbe edge that is to Ье {aced, MaIk thе scallops and Stitch, pivoting the wогk оп the neeclle at the inner points- Trim ýеаm close to stit hing and ctip iпto points. (Ве caIeful not to clip the stitching.) РIеss the facing ýide of the sеаm baek towaId the facing, Then tuтn fscing to wтопg side, Prcýs. Тurп law edge апd hem in place.

cut and prcýs

а biaý Sttip thе same as

fol

pipingýcallops

pIain piping. In the uppeI fold, епсlоs€ а cord. Use а coIding ziрреI Joot to ýtitch close to cord. with rigbt sid€ оГ ГаЬгi. against srопg Side of piping. Btitch thTollgh all thicknesses close to cold, again using coTding оI zippel foot. fасiлg а poiпtвd соIпеr

of а strip oJ caтdboaId iп th€ size агd shapР оl the s.allops, I" you агр not uзing а pattem that haý the scallops malked, use thiý .агdЬоаrd (о mark lhe S(aIlUps on the fаЬriс. Stay-Stitch the faЫic оп the sеаm line of the scatlops. Hard-pтess the scallop edaeý over the саrdЬоатd patteгn, clipping the curves to the stay-stitching. In pTesýing, Ье SuIе the stay-stitching соm€ý just очеI the €dge of the cardboaтd to the wгоп8 side so it does not show, Baste bias piping to the pTesýed edges ol the ýeallops So а патюw bit outlines tbe edge. clip thp piping at thc iппрг pO;nls as you baste, Top-Stitch сlоs€ to tumed edge.

cut

cut а strip of tгue bias and with Tight sides

togetheI, baste to the сотпет tb,be faced. MiteT Ihp соrлрr and Ihcn stii.h гacing to соmеr. то rcinfofce, stit h aTound соInеI а second time using smatl stitches. Тrim close to stitching

Turn {acing to wrопg ýide; tuгп uпdег rаw edge and hem in place.

one €dgе


tшсls т-ь

Err,. tio рчrrюsеs:опе as а decoration and the otb€r аз а rпеlдs to lit ог Ьriпg

into а ga.ment, Е*{ 'Eц!iý q.l.a r раttеrп that employs tucks in its design, the tuck |осаtiопз алd ýize vill Ье cleaтly L r(з rr. iвdвrrd la. ЬrЁеr. !оч аге putting tucks into something {от whiсh ]iou hаIе Dо pattem, а gauge

й ч*d :о. ýuвci, iп the depth of the tuck and the distance Ьеtwе€п ttemДrrc, вдrtц, '_Ь :lкk lo(alioпi оп уоuг fabтic (See page 35 JoI Ноw to Маrk], рrеs,s the edges. ТЬеу t.iЦ t..r!*! :.r з.ý оr stitch if you have а clean, ýhafp edge. If tuck rr! rýr.d :в r srrrп€пt foI я.hich the pattern does not indicate tucks example, tbe frопt gЬФИ

of the blou!. - ttxl ib. f$rrс bfore cutting out the gатmепt Diece, pin tuclý. As tЬсir вr!Е jhdiё, thеs€ аге !егу паIгоw tucl(.s. Tbf.t rr! Е.& .i!hеr on the machine ог bs hадd: Ы (. 6!€. lhееr fаЫiсs,

'оr

hand-run tucký аге оrtел рЕf€rrid. Та mаkе hапd-s€wп pin tucb, сг€r.ч ос tt. rucl( lineý and mаkе small тчппiпа Stitcha! cl<.. to 'ý. сгедзе. crossed tцcts. Whеп tuc}ý аr€ аггаD!еd ro сrсs each other, ail the tucks Iuппiпg in one dirKtion ýhouid bemadefirst, тhеп make the tucb tbat run in the оthег diгесtiоп-

corded tucks. Encase the coTd in the tuck and Btitch, uýiпgасоrdiпg oTzippeT foot оп thеrпаеhiпе.

If using а ýlippeIy fabIic, it is well to baste the coтd in place befoтe stitching,

decorative tucks магk оп tbe fabric the lines of the desian you wiýh tofollor,. Очег these lines make tiny очёrhапd stitches, taking чр jчзt а smalt bit of the fabтjc in eaeh stitch. Either self{olor ог очсriапdеd tцсls.

]i;.,r" """aa.*оrо"

.."""""a\aaaa.aооrr,

сопtгаStiпg thread mау Ье used.

2 golped tцсlý. Make several ines

сIоS€

oJ tucký tоgеthег апd ргеss them all in one direction. At the top, stitch асrоss the tucký in the diIection thеу аrе ргеý{еd- Then tuгп the tucks in the oPpсrite dir€сtiоп &пd, at the dеýiгеd interval, I

1ilt.. -к<:hеm

iп the tчгпеd direction. The

i-ir rý :i€ :rm.i Ьtk ro their оrjаiпа] з t-J.e Е; rta- .:.:.,i.i a-, .::::е .]!еrпаtiпа а :Ь ct, .: пй з'...г!r

t

tl--r at} а:.- tЁ r., r

-r.' tlb.ElH-El5 ,а

2


rшffles Suсh а grcat vaтiety of rcady-made rufringý а"е displayed today that Taтely is it песеgsаrу to make уоuгоwп unless уоu want them of араItiсulат fabfic, Ruflling iS available in cotton, nylon, embтoidery, eyelet, lace. often it is combin€d with а decoIative band, Such aS eyelet rufre with band of embToidery. If makiпg youт оwп, Iцfriпа should рfеfетаЫу Ье cut on the cTosýwise оr bias of the fabTic as theýe will fall in soJteг folds. FоI ciatheTed rufrез you will need flom 1у4 to 1у2 times the ýрасе into which the rumе iý to Ье put. Pteated TufreB need about 3 timeý the space. ln gatheTing Iong ruffieý, divide the fabric length into quarteтs and gather еасh quarteт ýepaвtely. ThiS makes it easieI to space the gathefs evenly, and theтe is tess danger of the thTead bTeaking whеп the gаthетý ате pulled чD. Using а lona Btitch on the mасhiпе, make two TowS of gatheTing stitches, the ffIst about Уs" lTom the edge and the seeond %" fгоm the fffst. PuIl up the bobbin thтеаd to gatheI. Ве{оrе staтting to attach Tulfleý, maTk thе item to which they аге to Ье attached in qlrarteN and adjust Уа oJ mming to % the edge.

Rufres еап д]ýо Ье made automatically оп the sewing machine Ьу using the тufrеr which mау Ье adjusted to яiче morc oI leýs Jullneýý,

witt hiaý. cut а Strip of true bias оr uýе rеаdу_ mаdе bias tape. NатIоwlу tчгп to the outýide the edg€ to which tuJne will Ье applied. Place Wrопg sid€ of gatlreled edge of гufflе over the tuIned edge and pin to the edges the ght ýide of the bias ЁtIiр. Stitch. Ттim ýеаm to about Уs". Тurп bias oveт the sеаm еdд:еs апd hеm iп place as shoivtt. tшfilе

Iчfilе $th lacilg. Right sides together, baste ruffie to edsie. \тhеп оп а collar, as shоwп, oI on the fтont opening of а btouse, tареr the Iufflе дt the end.

Pin-on the facins. fiqht Бidе dom, and Btitch thlough all thicknesses. Tfim seam, any e;cesý ruflling at end and соIпеrs. TuIn facinsi inýide; ргеSs. сirсulаr ruffle Та поllр o.i.Illol .Ufl,. dгаw s.irгlе, Frоm its edge measuTe in toward the сепtеr the width you want the Iufiе to Ье and dвw а second sпаllеr

сiгс]е iпвid€ the first, The liпе о{ the outer ciтcle will Ье th€ loweт €dge of the гufrе while the line of the iппеI ciIcle wiu Ье tbe uDреf edge.

applying ruffles with Iight sideý togetheI and the rufrе heading oI binding and fablic edge ready.nade rцrlled edgiпg.

even, stitch thтoltgh heading close to the gаthеIs. Pless rufrе down, s€аm up, Оп the fabTic edge, top-stitch close to Seam ]ine thфugh fabTic altd веаm

маrk the {ab.ic with the lineý of both cilclФ.

adding а sеаm allowance, (Seam allowanceв ате shown Ьу Ьгоkеп tines iп diagгam.) cut along seam a]iowance edge of оutег circle; then slash оп the stтaight grаiп to iппеI ciTcte and cut atong that

sеаm аiIоwалсе, Тг l}e"e;. поI suffi.icni fabri. length from опе cutting, mагk and cut а second cilcte, оIтлоIе ifпесеýýагу, and веаm them togetheT. Stay-stitch inner curтe on seam line. Оп outeI с rчё, lJm uпdрr sраm аllоsап(р, Stit.h оr hапd_hFm,

rlffewiti

heading. Nаrrоwlу hеm one edge. Tum оth€I еdg€ ппd€f the amount пqсеssагу to make the desircd width of heading, pluв а 7s" 3еаm allowance. Make two фws of gathels, the ffTst опе on the sеаm line (5/s" Jrom the bottom о{ the heading) and the ýecoDd {rоm Уs" to Уа" from thе liгst. DTawup gath€Ts to fit Spacei pin оr baste in position; ýtitch thmчgh еааh Tow of gathem.

Ъ оррl, l,ffр, clip

ýеаm al]ouance of

iппеr

сuffе to stay-ýtitcling. Right sides together, pin baste Tuflte in place and stitch


pleats The pattem fог а skirt with pleatý witl hаче all песеýsагу mатkiпяý and instluctions foT making them, Fог perfect results, follow these tагеfuttу. Тhеrе аге sечегаl typeý of pleatý uýed in pleated skirts, Those which слп Ьё mаd€ Ьу the hоmе drеssmаkеI inctude: Pteated skilts ýhould Ье hёmmеd ЬеJоIе pleatв аrе

hems iп pleatBd skirts

put iп to make sчrc thе loweI edge is а st?aight, оп-gгаiп line, IJ ýholtening iý needed afteт the hеm iý in апd pleats made, it iý done at the ýkilt top. Fоr hоw to hдпdlе the hem in а seam атеа of а pleat€d ýkirt, see pasie 91,

stlaight 0r knile. Pteats ali turnjng iп опе dircction. They should 1ар from Tight to left,

stitching pleats

hol plCats. Two straight pleals luTned away frоm

invertod pl.ats. Two

gtIaight pleats turned towaгd

kick pleab. А singte knife ог inverted pleat in а ýеаm to aive mоrc walking mоm iп а siim Skirt, NoTE: if а skilt with kick pleat must Ье lengthened от Bholtened, mаkе the atteration iп the pattem {rЬо0€ the p]eat to lеtаiп its oIiginal lenath. ОtЛеr tUpеs whi€h muýt Ье пдdе Ьу а commeгcial

Fine, ShaTp_edged pleats with the edg€ ýtanding очt instead of lying flat. ýuпhulst or fап. Sharp_edgcd p]Pats graduating in width fгоm top to bottom. ассOrdioп,

mаrkiпg & making /сrg. or.o, such as а skirt, tTansfel pleat lines frоm patteTn to faыic, (See page 35 fof How to }lark,, ýЪrkiпс оп гiсht side, bring maTkings the fold to the пехt line of mаrkiпgs, Рiп 'ld'cs!inE ьs.l. i. рlзсеi prer: lightlr', Stitch aS indicated Фd t:r }r::e*; Eвate Ьэ.-tinai рrеss ц,е]1, r:.! а. :Le |rо.: of а ыочsе. pleats ]r а l,i.|.. !r*. :- ;.;,1 :: rl:! ,-: -lri::, jrt.:с Pin pattem j:ё .a:,+rr glil.E F"lа ъ tiаа'ýlц*{;

1п

@

,.fu, Ф4 'lif, 1,rt'_br- ' 7а'. }. :' sат ]*i &*a lldф ь,*ta.t -'tЁd*ta-!*rb lra

Atways ýtitch pleats from the bottom up. Stit hina down may stretch the fabTic so the pleats do not lie flat. In fabTi.s lbat do поi relain д prpss well lt iз а good idea to edge_ýtitch the undeT fo]d of the рlедts. Edge-ýtitching mау also Ье done as а dееогзtiоп оп the outer еdяеý аý ýhown.

pleated skirt without pattBrn реrmапепtlу pleated fаьгiс mау Ье purcha_ced Ьу the yaId. This not only saves thе tточЫе of бrчri!я out hоw mапу pleats and thеiт depth, but alio sдýеl time and епетgу used in Te_pTessing pleats ift€r laundeгing. аmOUIt ol labric needed

Fоf

ап аесоrйоп pleated зЁrrr, it takes 41,i ,дrdý of 35"-36" fabтic to make 1 уаId of ассогdiоп pleatin8. MeasuTe aтound wideýt part of hipý and multip|y

Ьу 4!z. Fof а |оп or suпb fst p|.ored ý,tr,f, about 1Ч },агё о{ з6" to 44" {abTic аге needed. For а bпt|e,ilпerted, or ЬоI pleated skift, mеазrrе the w;d"ýt раrl оl lhe hip.. The Гаьгi. s Гlеr sFаmiпs should mеавuге Jrоm 2% to 3 times this hip mеаýuгёmепt if the pleats аrе to touch еасh otheT, рlаплiпg the pleats Iп а knife, inverted ог Ьох pleated skiгt, % the l€пFth as gilen above iý youT hip meaýurc; the

!!|er r is

the amotnt i,ou can use in the pleats. тtц. :hе l?пяth of tочr seamed mateIial iB 108'', 'f о.72''. sгailable fог рl€аЪ, :: oa:!i!


Decide eitheI (1) how deep you want youT pleats от (2) hоw rnany рlёаtý you want; thеп divide 72" Ьу this numbeт. If you want them 3" deep, you сап have 24 pleats; if you want 36 pl€ats, they сап Ь€ only 2" deep. (Substitut€ your оwп figuTeý \{hеп you kпоw the length of youl material.) WhateveT the determined depth, th€ pleats will Ье that depth fTom the hеm to th€ hipline. Abov€ the hip they muEt Ье tapeled Ьу tsking in more mst€Tial in thв undel рагt of the pleat in оIdет to fft the ýmаllеr meaýurement of the waistline. Tbke 3 measuтements above the widest paTt of the hipý at 7" down from the waist, at halfway between 7" and the waist, and at the waist and tapel the pleats to meet thoýe mеаsчгеmепts.

to make kick pleats Kick Dleats ате so easy to make that they сап Ье included in а зkiтt even if the patteтn doeý not show thеm, Therc ате two ways to make them.

h. inverted pl0at

This method uses ап undeтlay, апd the еdgея о{ the pattem pieces where th€ pteat is to Ье will Ье ýhaped аý ýhоwп iп Diаягаm 1. StaTt Bhaping the extension where you want the toD of the pleat to Ье and make ir about 2" Wide, Тhе uпdеr]ау. shapcd аý iп Diagтam 2, should Ье frcm 4" to 4Уа" wid€ and аý long as the extenвion, plus ýеаm alloФance. when cutting оп Such an extension, mаIk оп th€ labTie the oTiginal sеаm line fтom the bottom to the top of the extension. Then pтoceed аs follows:

а, knife pleat

on а patteTn thеге will Ье ап extension of the searn

,wherc the pleat iý to Ье. Thiý is generally about 2%" wide at the bottom tapering to about 2" at the top. Thuý, if you want а side pleat in а sеаm Ъчt the раttегп does not pTovide for one, cut the adioining ýections wherc the pleat is to Ье about 2%" wideI at the bottom and about 2" wideт at the top. MaTk thё oliginal sеаm line of the раtt€гп on your fablic; thiý wiII ье уоur pleat line. Also maTk on the o"iginal ýеаm line the top of whateveт length уоu want the pleat to Ье. Тhеп make the pleat as follows:

Right sides togetheT, machine-baste alon8 the original ýеаm line fгоm the bottom to thе top of the extension. Above the errtension, join the r€gulal sеаm of the two pieces. Рrеýý p]eat extensioný and sеаm ореп.

Right sid€ý together, pin the two skiIt sections together.

staTtinя at the bottom, machine-baýte aloлg thе pleat liпё to the mark indicating the top of tbe pteat. FIоm this point stitch with regulation stitch to top of skiтt, Stitch flom bottom to top in а %" ýеsm elong Iаw edgeý.

pTesý веаm to,waтd the left and baste to wsiýtline edge.

on iпside, x,ith Tight sid€ý togetheT, pin чпdеrlау to рrеsý€d-ореп eitensioný. Stitch undeTlay to extensions in а 5/s" зеаm. Baste чрреr епd of pleat fiat to skiЁ. Invisibly catch-stitcb ýlanted edgeý of pleat to skirt оп wrong side, оr turn to outýide and top-ýtitch thфLtgh all thicknesses,


fringe

fuлшшцtш ýeliflinge This is the oasicst kind of fringe to make on а соаIsе weave, and is ап attlactive trimming eýpecialty foт gроrts gal.mentý, Before Iriлgiпg, triT 1Fс rаЬrП "dc. ,,n ,h. gгаjп, Measuтe in flоm the edge the desiтed length of the fringe and pull а thrcad. Just abovc this pulled thrcad make а line of machine stitching. Then pull the thrеаd next below the Iirst one pulled апd спгliluе рu]]iпя |hrраdс lo thе pdPp S|arling in this way at the top of the ffinge and working dоm1 keepý the thleads frоm tапяliпg.

а рарет gaugc thc width and length the is to Ье. WIap gaLlge i,ith уатп от {iogs and

cut

sесui,е the end,

At

llinge

опе edge, cut thTough ýёчеIаl

stlandý. Ins.Tt а cfochet hook into the ffniShed faЫic еdgе; with the hook, pick uE the cut stTands а| ,he uп.uI edgp апо pull lhгоugh \" "аЬriс. Pull the cLltends thlough the loop tofasten. Repeat until you have desiled anount oJ Jfinge,

fagoting

"kJ :.ЬЬ

fringe cut а tenath of hеачу papel the 'loss Фidth о{ the flinge plus %" and as long desiтed ge will Ь. attached. as the раrt to which the Fasten the floss ог уаla to the рарет апd \Trap it аIоuпd the gauge, lауiпg the strands toпching: each otheT but not overlapping- Machine Stitch астоss one tonsi side about %" frоm the edge, cut thтough the stTands оп the opposite side. Теаг away th€ lоwеr pnlt of the рарег. TuIn under and top-stitch the edge of thё gafment to the top of tho friпяе. Remove rеmаiпiпg рареr. or yarn

fli

the pjeces to Ье fagoted to рареI. Take а stitch on the left-hand edsie. WTap the thleдd around the needle several times, Trke а stitch in thc Tight-hand side dilect]y opposite. РtlII trp the thтead to make the Ьаr, Slip the needle dоýп betveen the {аЪтiс layelý on the light hand side and take э ýtitch in th€ €dgе, wTap the thlсаd aтound thе needte as bcfoтe апd take а stitch iп the ]eft side directly opposite, Pull up thтead. S]ip need]e doý'r] between fаЬriс layefs on Ie{t side and continue in the sаmе way until the desiIed numbeT of bals атс completed.

bar fagoting ваst€

kпOtted fringe

\aTros,l}, hеm tbe edge to whiсh fтinge will Ье attached, Тhrеаd а large darning needle with two оr mоге StraпdS of ],aln оr ltoss. Turn undel the P,]J" .^ $ъ:, h ,h. l.ilg" i. -а ьF а!,а.hFd. \\-,.;:.х ar, п] .jFhI tr ]eft. Ьгiпg пееdlе up :; ! -r. -:r:]:.,: r jc" ,i i.]bric. Tale stitches about

i:ar 1i..]rld length . -_л ,... -.-;i.r ]f

' : -_- i- 1 .:. , li:. ::i.::

r16

criýscr0ss fag0ting Baste pieces to Ье faвioted

to papel. Stait at uppeт right-hand side with s stitch. Take пехt stitch оп left hапd edge, Уа" Iowef dоýп. pasý пееdlо under the thfead to the right-hand еdяе and take а stitch. Agaiп pass needIe undel thlеаd to left-hand Side and take а stitch, (]ontinae in this way until the desircd апо!лt of fаяоijпg iS comDleted.


ýеqш

Bands от motifý of ýequiný arc pinned in place and slip-stitched to the gаImепt. Single sequins are sew€d оп with а bead in the centeT. ВIiпg needle up through fabTic to light side. Put а sequin over the needle and then а bead. Dгор them down ontothefabric and take а stitch о1,€I the bead and thTough thе center of the sequin to the wlong ýidc, Ttl appl, ýёqUiлý iп rоWs, bring needle up and through сепtеI of sequin. T5ke а ýi;ich очеr lhа edgp. Вriпя needle up through fabтic and thTough anotbeT ýequin, Take а back siitch to ihe edgp of Ihe firýt ýequin Ыiпяiпя needle out ahead of sесопd ýequin. Put anotbeI ýequin оп needle. Repeat until all аге apptied.

beads Bring needle up thTough fabric and thгough а

t0 linish hraid onds

About Уа" ffom cut епds, ýtitch acToss Ьгаid- If stitching Spreadý the bтaid, tie one епd оJ the thleads and pull чD the other end to Ьriпg bTaid back to itý oficiinal width. oveтcast the гаw edges, putling the thlead rаthеr tightty so the ends sте just slightly llaTro\rer than the actual width of the

ыaid. Faвten the thrcad.

ТчIп bтaid endв to wlong side along ýtitched line and catch down witb small stitcheý. braid.biлding Edges

wrопg sides toaeLher. rold Ьrдid iп ЬаlГ,len8lhwiзе and press. Ptace folded bTaid очеr edges апd baste, mitering епу соrпеrs. Stitch thmugb all tlicknesвes close to Ьrаid edge, ОI Ыiпd-hеm

bead. Take а back stiteh; ЬIiпg needle up ahead of bead. Put anotheI bead оп needle; back Stitch. Repeat until all beadý аIе in place. (S€е Sequin iilustтation above. )

mасhiпе qчiltiпg An efiective tTimming for а "Squаrе dance" skiгt. Baste sheetlvaddinя to the wгопя ýide of the fablic. MaIk the Iiгýt line ol quilting. Using the quilting attachment оп the maehine, space Stitchinя lоwý аs dеsiгеd.

braid

Nоr€,, When braid-binding а coat оr jacket hаý both а coliaт and а leveT, do not саrгу the braid eontinuouýly fтom collar to lever. them ýepalately, endin8: rFhеrе collar and TeveT join, as Bhown.

rick rack \,^\,^

Bгaid is used in а nllmbel of ways to tтim а gагmепt. Narrow soutache typeý сап Ье stitched with а braiding attichment oveт а design mаIkеdоп аgаrmепt агеа, оI applied byhand. Fancy ЬтаidБ finished with loops, ball fIinae or otheT decolations often make bands оп skiIts о1 outline the neckiine of а sweater. моrе generally used, howeve}- ате the flat militаrу type blaidS sеwп оп flat ог as а bfaid-binding slопg edges of

coltaтB, rcveIS and cutrý of jackets and coats, ог оп the uncoliared nё.klines о{ drFýses. since this t},pe bтaid iS гаthет looýely vr'oven, sоrпе attention should Ье given to ffnishing the cut endý leýt they spTead and fIау.

This is oJten us;d аý а piping, аý weil as дрр]iеd flat on апу paft о{ а gаrmепt where decoтation is wsпtеd. As а piping, it may Ье put оп aS shown the fabric edge tumed to the wrопg side and the Iick rасk stitched to the wгопg side so the points of on]y one Side ýhоw; оr it mау Ье ýtitched to tbe right Side of the edge through the сепtеr, then pIessed to the wтопg side along the stitching, and ffnally stitched а second time close to the tumed edcie. Whеп stitched flat as atop tlim оп an edge, tum eiarment edge патгоvtу to right side and stitch the Iick Tack to it tbюugh the centeт.

l37


Iace joininglace 1'he zig-zagýtiteh on automatic sewing machines does а quick and almost inviSiЫejob of anothel fabric oI anotheт piece of tace. Nеаrlу a]l the hand-joining ореfstiопý shоWп hele сап Ье iоiп;пя them flat with а line zig-zag stitchaccomptishedSjmplybyoveltappin8th€twoedgesand to gather lace. val lace а thгеаd оп the еdgе.

сап Ье яаthеIеd Ьу pulling

ioininglaceto h.mпOd edge. WorkJIom rightto left. With lacetowaTdyou, catch one hemthlead апd laee edge together with.,vhipping Btitches. Оr join flat with machine zig-zag.

2

ioining lacet0lolled 0dge. With fabric tоwаrd you, rоll hеm апd whip оп lace at ýаmе time. L)ce may Ье gаthегеd от eaýed,

joining lace to ontre.deur. Seam one Side о{ епtl€-dеuх

tofabric, TгimcloýёtoseamandoleTcaБtedges. oгjoin entfe-deuxto fabric with machine zig-zag stitch, Then roll оthегеdgё otentle-deuxand whip to tace edsie, €aýing thelace.

ioining lace and iпsеrtiоп. WoIk on vlottgSide. Whip edges toв:ethel with bose ýtitches so tace will ]ie flаt. Ог очетlар еdgез and use machine zig zag

Е€8

aaЕ

ч::Еr !п*rtiоп соrпег,

а..ЕiЗ ].. i-.r 1о Е]!., li iа,еtопеr. dг.. Er',i:я"j:,: a{i*r Еa сфt:.,:е jo,n,ia, ýФ

,Ja

4

00UDооп

io


cut atгiangle in thelace, trimming around pattelв. Lap edges flat and whip ioining lace flatat соrпеr.

together от use machine zig-zag,

inse{ing lace in tablic. Bastethelace Iiat to fight ýide of frЬгiс. Sewbothedges down eithel byhand оr machine zig_zag. on wronc Sid..ur fabric away чпdег lace.If ёdgеýФеrе hAnd-sewed, leave enouEh JАЬriс to loll and whiр.

TuIn геw edse of laceto outýide and stiteh laceedge to tumed edge. ОI lap both еdgеS flat and use mа.hiпеziя_zая. lace edge 0п lace.

Place lace pieces togetheгso pattem Ыепdý. Baste and thencutaround patten, Whip ed8eý with matching thread оr join witb msсhiпе zig-zag ýtitch.

10 joiпing laco tO lace.

11

12

1

'

joining lace motifý to fabric. Fоr motijs оr fancy edges, baste lace toTightýide oJ fablic. Whip togёther with чегу close stitches от use machinezig-zag ýtiteh. TTin fahricaway сlо!Ф tothestitch€s.

12 lace modallions. Uýe eithei olthe mеthоds deEcTibed iп 11, oI gev medallion edge to fаЬIiс with Iiпе

IunningoIljaekstitcheý.Thentulntowrongside and t.im fabIic to Уа"; Ioll edge and whiр to 1асе.


hand hBmstitching Hand hemstitchinя makes ап attraetive dесогаtiоп оп tabie matý, guest towels, pillow slips, and otheT hоuзеhоld items, апd it iS easy to do. Firstmагkthе hem width and, beyond the hеm, thе degired width of the hemstitching, DTaw out thfeads; then baste thе hеm in place, WoIk eithel fгоm гight to left, оI l€ft to right, whicheveт you ffnd еаsiеr. (The illustfations show the hemýtitching being done right to lett.) Ho]d th€ wгопg side of the mateIial toward you.

siпgle hemstitching

hemstitching 4 sides When hemstitching is done afound four sides of an item, Such as а place mat, theIe ате trпo efiects that mау Ье obtained.

Sесчге the thтead in th€ hem €dge. Pass the needle undel the deýiled numbel of thrcads, Holding the thгead to the teft, drаw the needle over it, as ýhоwп. 2 Take а stitch thlоugh one thтead in the hem fold and dIаw it tight. continue in t}tis way. 1

dочЬlе hemstitching

hemýtitciing allthe wау t0 edgeý

ТhiЕ is shown in Illustlation 6. FiTst drаW the threads оп all fоuг sides l then tuIп sпd baste the hеm. In the соmеrs, take uр both layeTs of thтeads wheв dоiпg the hemýtitching,

гollow inзtIuctioný fol single hemstitching. when the hem side о{ thе thгеаds is completed, Tepeat the wolk оп the oppoýite Side, taking up the sаmе gloup of

diagonal hemstitching ýoljd horder 0f hеm

on the hem sjde of the аrеа, proceed аs for single hemýtitching, on opposite side, ýplit the thlead gloupý, ta.king up half the fiгst and hatf the second, as in Iltustlation 4. ТhiS pToduces the diagonal efiect ýhown in Illustlation 5.

ThiS is Shown in lllustгationý 7 апd 8, FiгSt tuTn the hem to the fight side and miteт thе сотпегs, (See page 92 fоr How to Мitег,) Тhеп tuIn the hеm to the vтопg ýide and baste in place. close to the hеm edge, clip the threadý to Ье dlawn and dгаw them. pIoceed with the dеsiгеd type of hemstitching. Ъ lпiвh thP, оljеп .o1,1lerý, eithel ovelcast the edges and woTk l zigzag Etitch ffom опе Side to thе оthеr as in IllustTation 7: оI woтk а blanket Stitch ovel the edgeý as in lllustration 8.

lt,


tailoring Basically thеге аrе two kinds of tailoIing, ýoft апd ýeverc. Тhеiг construction metlrods аге fundamentally the sаmо, but thele ale ditrerences in the handling of eeгtain details. д combinatiott of both types, tending toward the softef, has Ьееп used in the construction о{ the Bholt coat demonstmt€d on pageý 60-69. Оп thig page and thos€ that fottow, а combination method has been uýeal that tёn.ts towald а simDlified veýion of the sечеге. the pattcrn

Btty the jacket оI coat pattern in уоur dгеýS size; пёсеssму еаs€ hаs been allowed in the pattefn. U уоч make alteгationý in а drcss patteтn, also make them in the coat pattern. If уоu аlе not SuTe whetheT oI not alterationý ale needed, оr if in doubt as to the соlrесt location of buttons оI pocketý оr of thё collar rоll, make а tтiai gагmспt of muslin oI otheт inexpensive cotton. the labric

Uýe coating ог ýuiting mateгial. FФ;л1.1lоIiпg, uýе а mёdium и.ight hair сапчж fоr the fгопt and the coliaT, and а ffrmly woven cotton foт асIоss the baek and the hems of the lowel edge and sleeveý. Liпing material is а matteт of peTsonat prcfeTence. It mау match thecoat оIа blouýe от dless that is to Ье \roln with it. FiflпLц |оо|еп taae ol eithef cotton оI linon ог regutaт ýtraight sеаm tape will Ье needed,

)*л ф

lrераrе the fаhriс

All fahic and tape

to Ье used should Ье shrцпk. EitheI рuIсhаýе рrе-shruпk mateтiat oI ýhгiпk аftеr buying.

cIttiпg the intcrfacing

coat and j{cket pattems generally inctude а pattern fог the flont interfacing. If попе iý inctuded, uýe thе eoat patteInas foilows

frOлt inte.lacing

I

Follow neck, Shotllder and аImЬоlе edges to about 2" оI з" be]ow the агmhоlе. Тhеп slope towaTd centeт and continue dowт {rолt, making interfaeing %" wider than facing. cut all the way to the loweт ed8e.

(lltuýtration а.)

Back neck intelfacingý ale cut tTom the back песk fla( iлg раtlрrп. I Г you wапL а mоrп р),_ tensive back inteтfacing, use thе back pat_ t€rп, following neek and ghouldels to а depth ol 4" to 6" be]ow n€ckline. Shape as

iл il]uýtIation

Ь.

паliпg То оЬtзiп accuIate mагkiпgs оп а bulky fab.ic. trапsfеr to the int.,ra.i29 the сепtег iпФl and buttonhole location ]ineý. using +.*ф}.,'ý lrs.iпg F5ре.. lt'hеп the Е'аст!.! - d}.eli ф th€ fab.ic. these

-..ь

l1l

i{ ь.

d.rri"T !.iп,

iлtеrrаGiлg


cOnýtructiOn iackot faont шпit Stay-stitch ýhoulderý and amholeý %" fтom the edge. Stay-ýtit h neckline on seam line.

Make Sbouldel darts. Trim to about 7s" rпide btlt not atl the way to the point. Ргеsý ореп очет а tai]oT'ý hаm. Make waistliпe dаrЬ. Slash ореп and ciip to the stitching at the waiýttine. Shape Ьу plessing очег а tailo/s ham.

pretýing oYer tailor's hаm

froпt inl..facing

TIim about Уа" fгоm lаDеl соrпеr oJ int€r{acing. Маkё any daгts. (S€е page 84.) ioiп iпtorlaciпg t0 front чпit Therc are two wауs in which this mау ье done. Mathod, л

Jrom

cut аwау the ýeam allowance ptus fmnt edge of intelfaciпg.

Pin tape to fTont edge of interfacing ýо one edge extends beyond intefacing iust

preparing intcrracing

1/ 16"

fаг enough to Ье caught in the seam. зА

'

Stalting at bottom, stitch othel edge of tape to iпtегfа.iпg. IJ jacket iý fitted, fюm waiýt]iтIe lpwaTd fоI about 6", pull tape taut to ease fTont under buýtline, то avoid bulk in seam, end tspe just below neckline ýeam line,

4Д Pin inteтJacingto wTong side oJ jacket front, mat.hing аrаiпliпез алd bavjng mаIkiпgý оп interfacing on outside, Match пecktine, Bhouldel and дшhоlе ed8ies and place edge of tape оп Jгопt ýeam line, Machiпe-baýt€ in place. Mathod, в 1в

attaching interlaciпg

Method, в

Pin interfacinei to wгопg side of fюnt,

matJhing grainlines and dots at neclr edges. Have maTkings оп inteгfacing on tne outside.

2в Machine-baste interfacing to jacket front оп the sеаm liвe of the neckline and %" fTom the othex outel edges. TTim intedacina close to stitching.

зв Sew iппег edge m place with long ruппiпg stitcheý, ending the stitches At the staTt of the счгче, аý ýhown. 4в Bastecenter of Etтaight sеаm Ьiпdiпgогtаре atong fтont seam line очег interfacing. If jacket iý fitted, pull tape taut as in Method а. End taDe just below neckline sеаm line.

,|5

.J


1

hшttonholes

undar-collar and inlerlacing uпit

тгапsfеr cent€T frопtапd buttonholemaIkings to fight Side of jacket Ьу machine or hand-bastinBi thloogh them. Ве Surc gвiп

Jojn tne undeT"col]ar at the centerback. Trim seam and preýs ор€п.

lines аrе accurate. 2 tf bound bultonholeF агр lo Ьс USed, make them поw in the fight flont. (See pages 100103 Jоr instructioпs.) If wоIkеd buttonholes аIе ргеfеrrеd, mаk€ them aftel thе gаImёпt is {inished. iacket back unit 1 Stay-Stiteh ýhoutdels and аImhоlеs %" fuоm edge. Stay-ýtitch neckline on ýеаm line. 2 Make dаIts and shape Ьу prcssing over а

з Join centeT back seam. BaNk InterIacing Make the dart in the back inteffacing as descтibed on page 84 апd trim to about ya" from tine of stitchinc. Pin inъIJacing to wTong Sid€ of jacket back. масhiпе-Ьаsъ tоgеth€т y," fIоm uпdеIаIm, атmЬоlе and shouldeг edges, and оп the песkliпе seam line. Тrim close to stitchin8:, ioin lront and back чпitý at shoцldots Match and pin notcheý апd dots at ends of shotllder seam line. stitch flоm песk to armhote, ýtагtiпа at the \eck sеаlп line. Prcss Sеаm ореп оч€r зеаm rotl,

naking undel.c0llal

lnteff dсiп!. Make а зirl,glе lapDed seam Ьу

matching the eentel back s€аm lines of the two соllаI int€rfacing sections and stitching оп the line, Trim seam to about %" lTom ýtitching. тIim оtr outeT сошеrs

scaming iпtorfacing

Machine-baste inteгfaclnc to wrопс side of uпdе!-соllаг %" Jгоmall edeieз except neckline. TIim intedacinдi close to

stitching.

with matched thrеаd, make

Towý of hапd-

padding stitches, stafting at the roll line and working towaTd the neck еdg€. HoId collal oveT hlnd while pяdding to shаре the Ioll.

joiпilg ftOпt and hack

F1l 1 |'r/ru

ftj paddinguпder.collar

padded under.collar

1lB


jоiп uld0r{ollar l0 jacket

attaching under.collaa

clip jacket neckline зеаm to stay-Btit hing. Pin undel-coliar to neckline, matching centel fTonts and backs and placing dotý at Baýte and ýtitch as faI аý the ýеаm allowance at end of under-collaT. BackEtitch от faвten

Тгim sеаm. clip Seam to stitching and pless open, shapingi it over edge of ioiniлgcollar collar and facing uпit

Stay-stitch {асiпg neckline оп seam line.

алd facings

ioininglacinls

Join front fsсiпФ to back neck fa.ing. Ртеss ý€аm open, clip necklinё to stay-stitching. Rig:ht Sides togetheI, join соIlаг to Jacing, mаtсhiпgсепtегS and dots same aSfol u11defcollar, and stitching aS fal as the Seam allowance at endý ot collaт. clip fIont faciilg seams at end of,stitching.

Trim seam and pTess ореп over edge of

j0ining соllаr

afi

faciпgý r0 iacket

ioin collar and facing unit t0 jackei Norr., The uрреI соllаr and fтont facings,!vil] Ье slightly lаIs:ег than the uпdеr-соllат апd jacKFl Fdgps to allnw ihpm lU гоll паjuгаllу. Do поt cut olJ thb eT tln аm,оuпt.

togetheг, match and pjncentel back, notcheý and neckline ýеаm of faeing and соilаг to jacket. Ease facing fтom top buttonhole aтound lapei edges, Ease collaт to

Rightsid€s

Stitch асгоss loweI eds:e and up fTont edgeý, catching-in the tape, and оп to the сепtеr of the collaI.

Тгim астоБý loveT €dgе of jacket to within %" of inneT edge of facing, Lауеr the fгопt and collal Беаm altowances- (See page 88 foT How to Lауег.) TTim сотпеIs.

1lT

,l


4 То insure shатр edges, ргеSs seams open Ьеfоге tuming facing to inýid€. TuIn facing to inside, Iolling seam edge of collaг

and lapelý toward jacket, апd edgeý below lapelý tоrчагd {acing. The seam should not Ье visiЫe оп the edge. Baste Seam edge uýing silk thтead.

calch openpd пёсk saams lоgFlhеr loosely Ь}, hand. c)tch facing to inteгfacing with tonei гuппiпg stitches (See раgе 98), Ieaving about 5" flee at loweт edge. Notej If shoutder padý аrc to Ье uýed, do not catch facing tointefacing until aftef sleeves

цд-\

and Shouldeт pads аrе put in.

lf

bound buttonholes wefe made, finish them оп the facing side, Stitch uпdеrаrm seams of jacket апd ргеSs очегSеаm rotl.I{ waistline iB а Jitted one, clip Беаms at waiýttine. Steam-pтess the entiTe jacket, usiEg а tлilог's сlарреr (see page 96) to dve соllаI and flonts fifm, shагр edaeý. Also use clapper оп bound buttonholes.

facing

sleoye uпit

stitch the back sl€ече uppeт sleeve sectjon at the

e]bow. Pless Sоаm ореп очег tai]oт'S ham )s in the iltustlation.

Make two Iоws of ease Stitching Ьеtwе€п notcbes at top of sleeve, опе on seam line and one %" frоm fiБt within веаm allo,lvance.

plessiпg

sleeye seem

Stitch fгопtý€аms of Sieeves апdртеýБ ореп очеr seam foll. ioin sleove шnit l0 iackot

Method, л

lA With rightsides together, pin sleevesin аrmhо]еS, matching notcheý and dots and placing tор-оl Sleeve mагI at ýhoulder sеаm,

2l Pull

up еаýе threadý frоm both ends, adjuýting еаýе eýenly q,ithout gatheIý от puekeTý. Р;п to Ыd еа!а iп ptace.

l rdr .kr. sid. ор, .tit b зЬtе into дrD* r*d.a.....di!8 rl ооd.гlrЕr _, аЬr-з о. rit iiDs,1,

pressing lronl ýleeve sеаm


DDaA|LS IЕл1,

At uпdеrвгm, between notcheý, ýtitch а ýесопd time уs" frcm fiTýt within the seam altowance. TIim this аrcа of thе sеаm to У4" (See illustration оп page 68 of shоrt

coat demonstTation.)

lightly towaтd the Bleeve, ýhlinking out as much of the Jullness

5Д Preýý sеаm

coUNT тлlLоRlNG

jacket hеп In the same way make the hеm at the

bottom of the jacket, lapping hеm iпtеIfacing oveT fmnt inteTJacing. Flatten hemý Ьу sЪam-prcssing. WЪip-ýtitch fгопt facings to hеm at lorrer edge. Then give jacket а final thoтough pTessing.

as possible.

Meth.oal в

Гоllоw stepý 1 and 2 of Method pin the ease in place. Instead:

Д, but do

not iac*et hem

Should,ef Pad,B

IJ sЬочldеI pads arc bein8: uýed, they ýhould Ье put in now befole the lining is attaehed. Anchol thеm ýесчгеlу to the shoulder sеаm. Тhеп ýew them ail аючцd to the interfa.cing, using loose ýtitfhes, зв Tie ends oJ thlеаd to hold ease in рlасе. Rрmочё slеече flom almhole and steamýhriпk ease fTom ýleeve top, shaping oveT the end of а taitor's hаm. 1в

Pin

If desiт€d, weights can Ье put into the bottom of the jacket ог coet. coveTthem withliпing fаЬIiс and sew to веаmв Bt LrppeT edge of

sleeye hem

Н опd-Р,;сkiпg

ýlеечё into almhole. Stitch and pless аз diтected in steps 3, 4 and 5 of Method Д.

cut

а tIче bias

strip of pIe-sh ink muslin 1"

wideI thяп the hеms.

Pin mustin to wтопя side oJ ýleeve %" below the hеm line, lapping ends at оl1е of the seams, гasten in ptace with lonei тuппiпg

Edgeý of соtlаI and lapelý ате sоmеtimез ffnished with hand-pick stitch. Uýe buttonhole twist ог cotton еmЬтоidегу ЯФý. closeto the edge make а linoof hand

interfacing ýleeve

picling sleeve

folm hem. Pтess. Sew iпtеrf)сiпg with 1опg Tunnillg edge to

slit.hea, lаkiпя а shorl bapl stilcb on thе outside апd а longeт ýtitch in the thiсkп€ýý of the Ееаm. Rечетg€ thе stitches at the lapel Toll.

119

i


DЕтлlLs тЕл? coajyt _ lлlI1rDlNс

lining mating

tle

'iпiпg If the jacket patteTn was atteled, make the same alterations in the lining pattern. Follow patteпr instmctions fог cutting and

see page 69 foI cutting оп ап ехtIа У2'' оп

back lining. lf thеrе is по pattern piece fоI the back lining, note carefulty the instructions foт tIimming away the back neck edge of th€ jacket back pattem to fft the facing. Proceed with making the lining

lt

Baste JIont Shoutdeг daltý. Stitch rеmаiпiпg darts iп fфпt апd back.

l,

la ,

Stitch all sеаms еrсер' shouldels and preвs open. з stitch on the sеаm liпе of the front and of the back neckline and back shouldel edges. Pless theýe edges to wтong Side, IoIling stitching to wrong side so it does not ýhow.

2

Whеге песеssаry, clipseams So theyli€ smooth. If jacket is fitbd, clip waistline daTts. putting iп

tie

J

ll

ll 1

I a

, I

I

prepaIing liniпg

liniпg

Wrong sideý togetheг, ptacelining in jacket, matching Seamý. Pin togethel down centeт back.,

Pin and thел with ruппiпg Stitcheý catch

t}te

uпdеIагm seams together ffoп the inýide leaving 3" frce betowaImhole and above hem.

catching seams together

Baste linina to almhole beginning at undemTm s€аm andwoIking uD to shoulder. ffIst оп the flопt, then on the back.

Ьаstiлg

'iпiпg to armhole

Lap fгопt edge of lining очеr facing еdgе and рiп от baзte, leaving frce from 3 to 5 incheý above the hem. Lay the exeess lullness in the b9ck into а рlедt at сепtет back neckline.

Pin от baste.

Lap tbe turn€d чпdеr back ShouldeTseam allos,ance очеr the front shouldel веаm alloýance. Baste оr pin.

Ндýit-ý€{,аI

r}

tinina edg€ý iп plaee u!.ept ь+*. то мd f.Фr shollder dart дпd

ф., Ц rьt Ь С-€. ja*lJrr-ЁrtiЕ ,7о

crц}-ýti!.b

d


iI ц

12.

ýlеаYе liпiпg

Iiniýhiпg sleeUc lining

attaching

lining

Baste lining flat to jacket about 5" above lower €dee. Тuгп undel ýean allowanc€ at bottom of lining and рiп over Taw edge of jacket hem. The extTa length in the iining will foтm а Jold at the lоwег edge to give ease and ргечепt dralving.

finishing l0aer

Slip haid inside the aTmhole edge of the lining. GfаSр the toweI edge of the ýIeeve and drаw it through the liпing, thus tчгпiпsiйе liпing гight side ont очеr the sleeve, Pin to агmhоlе. matching ýeams, notches and dotý, and piacing top-ofýteeve maTk at ýhouldeт

Slip,stitch bottom of lining in place. Remove baýting and hem the JTont edge of lining to fTont facing.

Pull up bobbin

sleete lining

Sеаm line. Slip-ýtitch

Make а low of ease stitehing on sеаm lille агоuпd sleeve lining top between notches, Make а second Iоw %" fюm ffIstwithin

with sleeve lining Ufо?.g

s,ide out, rлаtсЬ

front seams of sleeve апd tining. Stafting 2" betow аrmhоlе, baste seams togetheT to within З" of lowel edge.

еаýе threaф fгоm both endв to fit lining очеI ýleeve, distTibuting еле еvепlу. Тчп Sesm allowance to insiale

Finish lоwег

in рlас€.

edsie of sleeve

'ong

liпiпg sаm€ аз

lоwег еdяе of jacket liпing. Рr€ýý. чпliпеd jacl0tý аId coatý

Seams mау Ье bound оr ffпiýhёd with tuтned and stitched edges. Edgeв of ýtaýhed dаttз should Ье bound.

15l


DDтлILs тI!лт coLlNT - тлlI/эRlNе

iпtвrliпiпg а coat оr iacket а It iS по longeт песеýýаrу to intedine дпd line coat ог iacket Beparately ав there srе fаЬгiсý thAt eombine both 1ining dfld iпtегliпiлg, With theýe, оDе cutting anal sewing does the tTick,

Inteтlining сап а]ýо Ье cut and machine-basted to the lining ýections befoTe the lining sеаmв яте sewed, the vау yolt would uвderline а sнтt, (See раg€s 85 and 86,) If, hоwечеr. уоu sre lining and interlining ýepaгately. hеrе iý the wау to do it:

cut iпlетliлiпg like !ining. Тrim away ýеаm я]lоwапсе оп frontв. Тгim away hеms pluý ап

inch at bottom of coat and slеечФ, Inteтline опlу the top pie€e of а two-piece sleeve, slash, lap and ýtitch darts, Lap, stitch and trim sеаmý, WoTk v{ith coat iпside out. Pin interlining to coяt, саtёh ýide sеаms together loosely, Baste аrочпd агmhоtеs and сstсh inteгlining over front facing. Iпач€ loweт edge looýe б iпсhеý above hеm. Trim inteтliniпg at back ol neck and зеw to neck {acing. Line coat ýаmе аз jacket except lov,/er еdgе,

Baste ýleeve inteтIining to outeт sleeve linina оп ýеаm line. TTim ermhole ýедm of interlining; then Btitch lining sesmý, Make two гоwý of ease ýtitcbing ьetween поtсhеs, Atta.h ýIeeve lining as dеsсriЬеd оп page 151,

Ё-t ia й€ Ьtttiiцiд!.t !оЕr edre, to.nt rl ,.rЕtз l!ЁlЁraaJE.iт

lltsDъdЕ&. 15,


working with fшr Making coilals and счffs oI othe? items of fur iý not difrcult if сеftаiп precautioný аrе obýemed. directiOn

to mаla а fur nollar

(xt

'--__.---,-\

,)

0liahs

The hаiгý of fчr itemý ýhould all run in the same diтection. FоI example; lf mдking а fuT collaт foT а coat от Suit, the lrails should rчп from the tOcшtlur

lчr

ýhould Ье cut. TheTefoтe печеr use qhеаrý as they Йll alýo cut the haiIý and thiý makes it almost impoýýible to conceal seamв. Use а razol Ыаdе or а very BhaTp knife and woтk JTom the wтong (pe]t) ýide, lettina the blade go only thTough the pelt

oniy the

DeIt of the

Make the undeт-collal of the €оаt fabric, ад the pattem dir€ctý. 2 Uýiпg thе uрреI-€оllsг pattem, cut а complet€ collaт patteTn of рареI, omitting the ý€аm s]lowances, MaTk the pattem with атгоws ýhowing the direction in which you rrant the hair8 to rчп. 3 Ley the fur оп the рареI pattern and check the diтection oJ the hairs, It mау Ье п€сеssаrу to ýеаm the fчr in thrce о! even mоте pieceý to hаче all hairý ruп the ýаmе way. 4 After ýeaming, back the collaI with cotton and padding, gв previously descгibd.

цsing a patte.n

FiTst tгim the patteгn along the ýеаm line. Ьу it оп the pelt зide of the fur, msking вчrе the haiIý ruп iп the deýired direction, and ýесчrc it to the pelt with small bits of Scotch tape. MaTk the patteгn outliпes оп the pelt with pencil or tailoT'E chalk. Тhеп cut through pelt only along

t0 ýеш lшI

The next ýtep is to tape the edge. Uýe cotton tape in %" width. Hold it a8ai[ýt thе fuт ýide йth one edge mstching the cut edge of the p€lt. PuBh any pTotruding haiTs out of the wау апd sеw tape еdgе to pelt edge йth ffne overhanding Btit heý. 6 Тчтп the оthеI edge of the tдре oveT the s€аmеd еdяе to the wTong Bide of the со|lаг and hеm it to th€ cotton padding. 5

IJ posýible to obtaiп, use а fuгTieт's ttlrе€{idеd Whеп piecing frrr, place the pieces together vrith the cut еdяеý iust meeting. Push all haiтý down fTom the edges to Ье joined. Using wexed heavy cotton о1 linen thread. iоiп the two DiесеS with а чеrу ffne overhanding stitch, takina up опlу the ed8e of the pelt. t0 ha.k fur

Апу fчI will weal better if backed with liahtweight cotton fabTic, and old fuTs ýhou]d alwaye hачё this done. The {аЬriс should Ье

attached to the pelt with fine зtitches around the edges and the fablic then сочеIеd with cotton padding. which in tчrл iз caught to tbe ГаЬriс.

Turn in the sеаm allowance ol the чпdеr-соllаг and tay the fчг соIаr over it йth wrопg sides tо8еthег. Неm ог sliРstitcb edges of чпdеr-соЬг to the tэре од the fut eollal. 8 Make а liпе of Tunnina stitaheэ thlочgh чпdегcotla. and psddina to hоld чцdеI-соlЬr in рlд.е. 7

to

п.l!

lш tctbat

side of the fчг, dTaw s chalk circie about %" taigeI iп diameter thап the button mold to Ье coveIed, Sew cotton tape to the ёdgе ol the сiгсlе. Маkё smail Iunning ýtitcheý агочпd tape edge. Place button mold over the peit; dтaw up the runпing ýtit{heý оп the tар€; fasten secuтely. Оп th€ p€lt

15,

l


mеп'ý апd boys' garments

А йразDrеm€пt chaTt fol men'S and boys' patteгns will Ье +ound on Dаgе 9. T5ke these mеаsчтеmепЪ:

Fol

coetý d,пd jachets -.

.

meItsuтe а"оuпd the

fulleýt paIt of the chФtj sйiтts , , . meaýuтe aTound the neck aвd add ''оf 1" fоI the neckbaId ýize. i'or fforýrrý . . . measuTe aтound the waist апd the outýide length from the waist down elong th€ outside leg веаm. Fот sleelles . . . mеавлfе fTom the back base of the neek along the shouldeT and down to the 11тist,

to make а man's shirt Flа t felled sеаms ате рIеfстrеd fo" mеп'ý and boys' Shirts, (Fот hoý to make this searn, in

lo.

i

ýeamý, howeveT, mау Ье used

sрOrts

if

dёsirеd.

shid. See the step-by-step demonstration, pages 74 to

а tailorcd ýhiгt with Dollаrьапd

With а few exceptions, the coпstTuction of а tailored Bhiтt with col]aTband iý similaT to that of а sports shirt. whele detailed instructions are not

given below, the step has been coveTed in the spoTtý shiгt dеmопstгаtiоп and you witl ffnd it there. If the shirt has а pocket, make the pocket and apply ь thе left front before оthеI conýtruction is done. La|t Front Вапd. . Ргеа9 чпdеI ýэаm sllовапсе оп lопg unnotched

.dat ol ЬдС

a Pri .i!bt n& о' ь.nd

to Eтong ýide of le{t

.ф, Stitc} .дd t iD ..ап. 'rra Ьa .. -j& вr.ii!|| .!зt гi a 'Ui DёI'fr-rsl{.dGa М

161

Р.€.g.

81,

see page 38.)


офц

Raght Ffol't P..ial а РIеSS чпd€г fi еdgе of facinr_

Tt-

Right ýid€! toarr*, Shirt frопt edaa_ matcbiDa с€tt|.r1 f= с Stitch bottr €фэ.a Ь

4 5

At top of shin ъ..t Join yoke and

and top_зtitcb 6 Join yoke and 1

yot

_

clc 'lф t _, f:cira D

tдltsп,..шоIц..& -ts t_rEts

ргеýs. Machine_b.r. Top-ýtitch Уа- lIш

td1.-пllrl'

*-r

8 СоlLаrЬапd, а Рlевý unaler thе ,.rD outeт сurче ol tne ъ.{ Ь Right sideý toaetlea Е.-..!-. mat hinя dot! яt с!дl.t1

rbc-a

e--.--jl--..o

8c,d

Масhiпе_Ьаstt intarf&i!3 to щ| соtlаrЬапd faliDa si' frФ .a..

-- i

intefiacing close to ltitcbin . Right ýid€ý tоа€tЬеr. рiп Ьrd

'ltl

тгiIц seam; clip счri'ез; tчrБ .!a

t.r,

о?ет the collar, matchiв8l togethe. along loEg iппег

aU

'* s c.ai.i, co td|l ba

ltry{tir.iiE

clip neck

еdа€ ol ýhirt to Рiп EIсHT ýide of band /aciig to rD!(c drb of зhirt at Eeck edae. Match с€!i..з ..d ор€пiпg еdgэs, Stitcb з€яm ; triпr ; .lig Рrеg9 зеаm toFard TbРstit h рr€*gеd edae ol Ъ.дd оФ. continuiвg thе зtit hina sloaa tl. ьсD.'..d to

fuа

тhеrе it m€еЬ фе co .1 to}.tit

.tfl

БЕ.

biц.

Make the ор€пiпа !t th€ botto.a of tll€ ýlеечез. Mske ease_ýtitchiвa асrоýs sl€еrэ top. рiп and stitch зlеече to аrmhоlе апd make а flat fetled seam, 10 Неm bottom еdgе of ýhirt. Тhеп join entiTe uпdеrдтm sеsm in а flat felled sеаm1l Make and attsch cufiý to ýleevФ. 12 Make buttonholes апd Sew on buttons.

155


лND

l

Bofs, слllмЕNтs

paiamas

пссk oрспiпg in а !цll0YеI shid

finiýhing шсlliпеs

that pr ls Тhе v-shареd neckitne of а pajama top пп пчеr the head iý fLnjshed with а shaped iасiлs Ьа.а, Th;s brna mау Ье pipcd iГ desiTpd,

ВапJ u,ith out PipinlJ Ьу 1 Reintor(e lhe poin| оi lhe пе'k opcning Stitchinli fof aborrt 1" each ýide of it, pieccs Ггоm {rопl лссkЬапd раttеrп, 2 - Сul 4 о" t*o от rb".. r.;* ofr end а1 ]" аЬо!е the роiпl, (These pieces wiu Ье {acings foT the ьапdS,)

of At center fTont of shift, stitch %" еасh side will .na ,".*" ror,v"I en'l of whеfе opening "..i". diagonatly Ье. Slash between stitching, clip into coTneTS all the Way to Stitching,

with Tisht Side;f facings against Iопg

ýide о{ openinei, front, stitch опе facing to leJt Side ol and ib" oib". to tb" .igbt "dge, Clip sеаm сuтч€ я{ оrеss toward Гмiпg, {'lip ,"аm allowance по;пr all rhe way ro Lh, rеiлгоr,iпg,lilсhiпя, iuтп snam atluwan"e апd гасiпg, to oulside,

opening 2cut two Dieces of Jabiic the length of the fo DluS 1л" апd 23l " \л ide, тчгп and рrе,s

Ыlо$апrе ол one long edgc ""^'n sides logether, stil(h pi"c". Right .f "а"h PreýS unturned edge oi bands lo slaýh edgeý, seam towaTd the Ьапdý,

*.""n .ia. tи"

4

to back Join ShouldeI seams, Join fюпt bands as band. Ттim ofi point о{ вIGЕr band on the facineis,

з

baste тurп bandý to jnSide, ГоId lengthwise апd tumed edges оýег the sеаm, on inside,lap riяЬl iвnd о!ег left band, matching cent,Ts, Pin, >.r €..J of l.qп(L. алd clipped €'d о' :d!:.t !tзтl.-<r РЕ -- чаm dosn,

r iг_а

'd t

156

t_. r.c t-.:

d- t}+'lla{i

"i'

\blt.ad! :

вrе ]niпed and со]lаг

on inside, bastc RIGят side of band to band iаеiпgs апа i}ack neck etlge, matching сепtеrs ,]ip ,urvPs, and Seam., Sl itch, Trim sеаm i


,п._:{ Еф :t' - * {. andthe! tDrn'ng::}. :' :э*!} *,r:,-rf, llt iЁ_ and siitch again.i -*-: е,з Ее!. : Е, thгочяh саsiпя ал,] flоm opening edge_. }|ц. . 1.эlrА,- . dli Make the casins,

flont апd scв,buttt,. i i,1: :i.

6

Тurп band to outside. Тuш чпdеI %" оп edgc. Baste in place on outsid., teavjng end fIее. Top-Stitch aS lrasted, Sel,Iight Ьапd facing and Jront togethel

shorts Elastic webbing iý gtх,..з. the top of ýhоIts. ELdAtic i|.Ььiп!] The webbing should Ьt a€.ýs

]

l:1'

than waist mеаýuгепе:

Lap ]eft band о!еr гight, matching centeTs, tsastc pointed end iп piace, Tlrp-Stitch аý basted and асгоSs top of point, Вапd uith. Piping This is applied in the sпmе ýil,aS the band !,ithout piping, except that betýeen steps З and { the piping iý inserted as follo!,s: PreSS oEen а StIiD of Ьiаs fold tape 1оr ч_.е геаdуma,le р;гiпg, Fo]d the {l.ip iп hil]f ]rngthb,-е Оп outside of neckband, baste Taw edae,i ol bi&. lo lllDег e,ige of l,"nd wlLh lh" iold of IЪ" biapointiпg alvax fтоm the еdg€ and ехtепdiп8 l.Ье} ond the Seam line.

0п outside, pin one edge of elastic '" ,l,,. _;;.: еdgе of Sborts, p]acing maIkings :]t ceniti '.^i: !по,.lde:, Lap Pnds а"аt(еп'дrl:.i j:,I h, .'гFlсhiпg еlаsIi"U fit tор Ot : h,,гt.

finishing r.istbands

The qaiSttand о{ pajamatrоusеIs iS finished \Tith а casinE th., ugh \Lhich eithel а tape tie оr e]aSIic rs ruп, Fог tape, чSе 1" rпide cotton t\rill tape: for еiзsli., ]+" lvidth. Tapt Ti. Whеп maii)r 1n€ tгousels, after finishing the flr'. opening а: :i,, rlfht front, make а hand- ol machin..a,.i-,] i]Uttonhole thгough thc right frопt elia. \\'a.tn rеаd}, to make the tape tie, рг&е.; !. :"l]о\гS: Оп чрреr .aя. : trouseN, pless under %", Тhеп tчгп ri.t. l !! апd stitch in place to foтm д casing, ital ].8 ;tit end open. Ruп гott.5 :-i,]i :f,L{ through the caýing, bl.inging :}. :-;- , ]i thrоugh the buttonhole оп the riaht iiie l'!:.n tbe tape securcly at the сепtеr .'д-l,

2

т_-

..].:]r Io inside, Stitch ]owel. edge iп place, -:1:...:]g i" !it, llake З mоIе rоws .:_:.]::,8 .гасiпg them Уа" apaTt.


index Аidоп!., Pattern Adiustпent ,..,,

,,.,22

дссоrdiоп Рlе.tiпс,.,,,.,,.,,,,.,,..,,.,,,.,,1з4

Apclique ...,..,,.,,.,,.,,,,,,,.,.,.,,,,,,,,141

ArmnOlBsDanPOýiiiOn,..,,..,.. .,..,,..,.95 дпO{ь.аd Ta.ký 142

clapp.I, Tai'or'ý .,.. ..,.,,,.. ..,,..,З,96 cli!, Derinilion. . ,.,.,,. ,,. .,,,,,.,,26 clipping col[er, ,, ,,, ,,, ,. ,, ,,, ,, ,89 счrчеs ,.,, .. .,..,,,....,,.,,.,, ,,.,33 fiecklines. ,,,,, , ,,, ,..45,57,65,70, 94 coat, но* to Make ,,,,.,. ,,.,,,,,.,. 60.69 Palten ..,,.., ,,. , ,,. ,, ,9 collar Paitern дdjlstment . ,, ,,, ,.,,., ,, 21 collar Tyrer, How to Make , ,, ,,, ,112,]l5 circular пD'l .,..,.. ,, ,,,.,,, ,,.,,.,,1rзп14 .,,.,. .,.65.65 coat , ,, СOпчеltihlе ,. ..41,44,45, 1]З Divided ,,. 1l2

stitclilg ,

,.

,

stitch, .,.,,,.,,.,,.,,,.,,,.,,.,..,,.,,

g9

Bickзtit hing.,,.,,,,.,,,,,,,,.,,.,,,,..,,..,,.25 васt waisi Length, меrsч.еmепl ol,..,,.9 Prtteп дdjlstп.R! .,..,,. ,,.,,,.,,.14, 15

,.

.,.. ,.. ,. .,,,. ,,,,1зб 8al tagotilg,., Bal Tack ,,., ,. ,.. ., ,,.., , . ,. ,,, 142 5З Brýic Fitting Dress,. ,, ,, ,,,. ,. Bast.-ltarking , ,,, ,..,,.25, 42, 62, 75, 100 ,.25 Baýte,slnching .,,.,,,,.,,, .., ,,,,90 BastiIg stitcheý ,.,,,,,,.,,.,,.. , ,. ,,,., 1З7 веаdiпg ,.,,,. ,.,.,.,, ,

,. , .

,

8elt caпiec . , ,. . .,,,.,,. ,,,,,,, ,,,129 iolts, ноу to Mak. ,,.,,,,,,.,,.,..,,., ,.129 счmпеlЬчпd ,.,...,,. .. ,,.,,,. , ,,.,,,. ,129 я.сЕd ,,.,, __, ,_.- ,,..,.,...,.,, ,,129

lni.ria.Ht

.,129 Biaý, тruе Biaý ,, , ,,, ,, ,,..,..,,., .,,.26, 29 BiaýBindings,,.,,. ..,,.,,.,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,.130

sllips, Ho*to

siпdiпgs,

Mak..,.

Туреý

,.., .,,.,1З0

,,.,,,,, ,.,.,,,.,, ,.lЗ0

DOuble Fold ,,.,,. ,,.,,,,,, ,,..,,.,,,.,,.,, ..lз0 a..псh ,,,,,,,,. ,. .,, ,...,.,,,,,. ,,.,.,1з0 siпglе FDId ,.,, ,,.,.. ,,,,.,,,,.,,,,,,.,,,.., .1з0 Biпding cOin.K, lnside, oцtsid9. ,..1з0 ,...,, ,, ,. ,.140 B|ank.l ýt.tcl ,,.,. Blo!se, How tD [iar0 ,.,..,,.,,, , ,,..41-47 Гiпisting Logel Edg0 ol,,, ,, ,.,,..,. 92 prlten ,,.,,,.,,,. ,,.,, 9 0odice, Lenglhening, snor!eIing . ,,14,15

,.,

sir.

Unde iniпg,,..,..,.,,,,,,.,,,.,,.,..,...,37

Bodkiп,.,.,,.,,,,,,,,..,, ],44,10'

BDdyMerýurBnents,.,,,,,,,..,. Boninc ,.., ,,,,.,.., ,,.. ,.. .,,,,,, ,, ,.

..,,.8, 9 ,,.., 12s

вочпd Bultonhot.s , , .,,,.,,..,,.62. 100l03 col|arý,,,,.,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,.,,,,.,,,,,..,..,,,,,115 |{ecll,nes,,,,,,.,.,...,.,,.,,,..,,.,,.,,,,.,,,,115 рфkcis,,,,,,,,.,,..,..,.,..,,..,,.,,. 122, 123

seams . ,,., , .,.. .,,,,,,,, ,, ,. ,.. , _-,40 Bowý. ноу to Make ,,,,, ,,.,,,.,,., .,,...,.]42 B.r ,.,,. ,., ,,,.,,,1з4 , .,,.,,.. ,. 154n57 Boyd Сloihiпз мебчiвпелts ай Patiern siueý,,..,,.,9 ..1з7 Braid Binding, Тrimпiпg . ,,

рlёаlý

,,..,

,.. of.,,.. ,. .,,.,lз7 вUзt MeasurёфOnts ,,.,, ,, ,, ,, ,.,,,.., 3. 9 яапаrп Adjцnпents ,,.., ., ,..22, 2з гifъhiпr tпds

Bustlile llarl .,,.,,..,,.,,,, ,,, , ,,.,,.,, 94 Buito.ký, Paltern Дljuýtment . ,,.,,,.,,.20 Butlonholes, ноD to iiake ,. ,.,,.100l04 ,., ,,.,,,., ,.,,.,, . ,,,,100 Howt0 Butloihole stilch,,.,..,..,..,,,,.,,,,...,..104 .,t05 Bdtoný, воw to Вчltоп Lоорs ,, ,,..,..,, ^ttict,,,.,..,.,., ,,..,,....107

Mallt

,.,,

cable ýmocling ,, .. ,.,,, , ,,. ,,.,,., ,,,,141 clrdigaл ПPckline ,..,,. ,..,.,.,, ,,, ,.. ,,,,115 caiiiels, f.tric, Threid ,,,.,,.,,. ,.,,., 12s catch ýtitch,,,,,.,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,..,,.,,,.,,.,68, 99 citch.stitched Hem ,.,,. ,,... ,,,.,.. ,,,,,,126

,.,

lacket D.eýý

coat 0l

Man's ý9[rts

skrt

l

Ir, |ý

,

shirt

,., ,.

60.69 5з-55 .,,..,. ,.,..,,74.81

.

Mak. 1з0 Mat. 1!3_119 cold, Faýtenings.. .,,.. .107 Flogs .,. . ...,,.,,.,..,.,. ,,,107 LOopý .,. 107 lяisted ,. ..,. ......,..,. .,..,142 colded Piping

sermý

,. ,, ,,. ,. ,,, ,,.,,.. ,. ,.,.,lз1 ,,.,,,. ,,. ,. ,,.,,,.,,. ,39

.,.,

Tucts,,.,,,.,..,,..,,.,,.,,.,.,..,.1з2 lDot .,.,,.,. ,.,,25, з9,1з2

cording сOrпев,

.1з0 Binding cJippilg ,, ,. ,, ,. ,,. ,. ,. ,,. ,, ,. ,, ,, ,89 Гасiпg ,.. ,. .,.,,,,,,,.,,1З1 Miiering ...,,., 92 neinlDrDing .. , . ,. ,. ,. ,.. ,, ,. ,44, 39 Тlimпiлg ,, ,. ,, ,, , ,. . ,, ,.. ,. Э4,62

тчrпiпд .,,,,.,, ,.,, ,,,,,,,,,,.,,,,, ,.90 cotloп tihriс, slraightening ,.,. .,.,,.29 shrinking .. ,.29 Сочсiiпg , ,,,,.,,.,,.,, ,, ,. ,.,. ,.,,,140 criýscrosý FagotiDg ,. .. ,. , ,, 1Зб

тODtý closs ýtit.h ,..

,.,.,,,,.1з2

crossed

closýwbe Grain ,.

,,

140

,2r, 29,86,95 crotch, Раttё.п Adiusimeпt. .14, 15, 71 Сцlrs, HOvr t0 Make ,,46,47,8!, 1l9 сtrппеlhuпd, ноя to 129 culvos- нOя 10 33 . ,.. ,. ,,. ,, ,,,. ,, ,,. ,, ,,.,26 stay.stitching cut, нOw .,.. .,,..,,.,,. .,..,. з4 сцtliпl, Diasrams ,. ,,. ,, ,, ,. . ,, ,з0, з4 .,.. ,..,,. . ,. ,, ,. ,,.,]2. з4 llvау Nар апd one Fahlicý.,, ,.,.,,,.,,З0 шоtсьоý . ,, ,. ,,. ,. ,, ,,. ,,, ,. ,, , ,,, ,,з4 , з1, з2 Plaids апd зtrilcs,,.,. ,.

,.

., Makg TUfn

l0

Liпе

Рrе!аlаtiоп for . with Grain

tmЬlоidиу slitches.,,,,,,.,,,.,,,,,]40n4] Eпtre-Deux ,, ,..,,.,,..,..,, ,,,. ,,.,,, ,..,,, ,,]з8

Eyeletý

.,.

,..,,.,,, ,,.,,,104

,,. ,, ,,.,,. ,5в_59

солtпчOчs B]as, fiDw 10 Plactot, ноg 1о

0arts, Ту!е5,

о-ыl

,,.,.

.,,. ,. ,, ,, ,,. ,, ,,.,,.. ,.. ,, ,, ,.48.52 slaclG,,,.,,.,,.,,,,.,,.,,.,,,.,,,,,,.70-7з uлit wolt Рlаi chart ,,. ,. ,,. ,, ,,. ,.. ..2 coIstruclion ýynbDlý 0i Palterný ,. , 12

ctilar.i'l rё8цr.п.пlý.id

|0l

Threai , ,, ,,. ,. ,,. ,, ,, ,,,. ,. ,,. ,,.,,. ,..2' Eaý9d seam ,. ,.,,..,,.,,, ,,..,,.,,. ,,..,,.,,.,38 Edge and Point Pr.!ser,. ,..,.,,. ..,,.з,96

,,,. c0llar ..

culgolt

3,9 lБ 59

nёfiпition 26 lп Раttеrп.,,.,.,.,..,.....,..,,.,,.,,,.,,,,,0 st'tchiпg ., .,. ....... ,.,.21,28

aas..

singl0 lhЬkпеss,,.,,,,,.,,.,,.,,.,..,.115 1]4 Tчo.Piece поlId ol oiyided . .,...,1]2 undercollal ,. , 65, 11з Upper .66,11з combining Patleins .,.. ....... .... . ..24 сOппruсtiоп ol Galneilý ,..,, ,,.,,41.81 вlOчýв ,.,,,,.,..,.,.,,. ,. ,,. ,. ,,. ,41.47

sо.п ,,,,,,. ,, ,, , ,, ,,,,,, ,,. ,.. ,,. ..,.,40 сh.iп stitct. . ..,. ,.,, ,,,. ,,,,, . ,.,,,,,,,,140 ch.in Tack ,,., ,,.,,,,,,,,,. ,,,, , ,,.,,.106

З5 ch.lt, Markiпg with , che.lin8 P.tlorn Measulemeпts , , ,..,lз з1,32 сh.rrопl, Hol lo счl , , ,,.

0le$, сhildъ, ноу 10 MakP . . ,.. ,.56,59 oressпalels Tlacing Paper з, 25. з5. 48. 5ý. 61

Ti.

,. ,,

.

,.з7 .,З7

Undrdining,,.,,.,,.,,..,,85.87

,.,

0re$

,.. ,,.

TOOches

tlat,,.,,.,,,,.,,.,, ..,,.,,..,,.,,.,,,.,,.,,1l2 гчr .. ,.-.,,. , _, .,,. ,,..,,. ,. . ,, ,]5з мапdапп,,,,.,,,,..,,.,.,,,,.,.,,.,,,]14 0пе-Рiесе поOпd ..,,. ,.. .,..,. . ,.,112 shawl ,.. .. ,.,l1з

childъ

,,. ,..,,

st.aight.пiпg . ,..,,. ,, ,,.. ,. ,, ,,. ,,. ,,. ,16 oecolalive ,, , ,,, ,,,,142 00чhlе lold Binding ,. ..,,,.,,.,, ,1з0 00!tle Top.stitcbed sеап ,. ,, ,,. , ,,,, ,,.Э8 DOwa8г'ý Нuпр Paltern ldjustmeпt ,, 19 D1.5r, Matiлg ,,. , ,, ,,. ,. ,. ,. , ,,.,5з.55 Patlern ýiue ,. .. . ,. ,,. ,,.,,. ,, ,,.,,,,9

siz0

Bacl

,. ,,. ,,. ,, ,,

stitcfiing yith 0пе Tllrerd ,.,..

,

,

. ,.. ,..,,, ,,. ,, ,,, ,,.,,29

.,,.,

Нш lo Маkё

.21. з4

.,,141

, ,., ,,. ,,36.З7

Дdjusliпg ,. , . ,, ,, ,, ,16, 9' li lnterlacing , ,. , ,, ,, ,. ,,. ,,.,,..,..0з li Und.lliIing ,. . ., 36 Lor.liпg, ПаЬiпз . ,, , 16, 95 rr.liц 35 |t ýin з7 a.*r.t 2a,94,95

f

lypes ,.,., .,4_5,30.ЗЗ Fiпisiе5 ,, ,, ,,, ,. ,,.,, ,,.,,,.,...,..,,.,,..,29 HandliIg sppcial гаьriс!,,,,,,.,,,,,зll.зз P,eparation lor sewiig ,. ,. ,, ,,,.,,. ,,.29 Plessiic ,. ,. , ., ,,. ,,.,,96.97 sewing Tips ,, , , ..,, ,,.,,,,,.,,.,,з!.зз

Гаhriсs,

shriiking .,,.,,.,,,,

,,. ,,,,,., .....,,. 29

, ,,. ,, ,..,,, ,, ,, ,, ,, 29 Terms oerinei .. . , ..,,. ,,. ,..,..,,. 29 Гatric tools,. ,. ,,. ,, ,,. ,, ,..,. . .78, 107 stlaighleiing

44.45, 57, 66, 77.18, 1]2.1]з сOrпе.s. How to Turn ,.. 90

,.

NeckliIe ,.,,., .,,.,,,, ,,.,,,,.109, ]15 opeIings, н!w to гiпъh,., ,,,,90,109 scallors , ,. ,,. ,. ,. , ,,.,,., .,,.,,1з] slaýh , .. ,,. ,. , , ,. ,. , , 46, 115 sleeve oрепiпg ,. ,. , ,. , . , ,. ,.46 ГасiBg, Вhý ,,.. ., . , , ,.,,58,]З1 BlOtrýe Frопi

cardigaD ,. .,..,,, , ,,,,,,.,.,,.,,,1]5

lackel

coat 0r ,. ..,,, ,. ,,. ,, ,. 06 tхtепsiол ,,. . ,, ,. ,. ,..,, .,.,, ,.42,45 яоw lo тчrп,,.,, .,.,, .,,..,,.,,,,,89 HOw t0 Undectilch ,.,,.,,,,.,,...,. 89 ,, ,,.,...,. ,..,,,,.,,, ,..,.,Gб

Ne.k

staped

,..

,,, ,.,

.,

.,

,,,,..,,1r2,114,l15

,.,, fаýlелiпgs,.,.,.,,,,, aagoting

,,.

.,,..,,.,,,,,,,,,.,1Зб

.,,.,,.,.,106107

,, 105 looks and Еузý , ,,.,..,..,,,,., ,,.106 Linger'e stlals .. ,,.,,.,!07 Blnons

tools , ,.,,.,... ,. ,, .. ... ... 41,18,101 sларý . ,..,. - _, ,,..,,.,,.,. ,.,l06

тасks .. .,,..,,..,. ,,,100 Thlea lуеs ., ,,,.,,,.,,,,.,106 zippels ,. ,,.,.,,,.., 100.1l1

FeathelbonIng (or вOпiлg).,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,129 fеаlhш slilch ,.,, ,,,,.,,, .,..,, ,.,,,,,.140 tigule Types . ,, ,,. ,, ,., ,, ,,.., ,.. .., ,. ,6 tinbhing Tr'cks. ,., . . ,.. ,, ,,.,,. ,. ,,в8,9з 94.95

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