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T H E B E AU T Y EXPE EX EXPER X PERT RT

DEC D EC E C

See S ee e Gig gi com me to life in this is issue issue! sue!! SCAN + S EE FOR BR BRAND AND DED E CONTEN CON TE T TEN

100 + Li Lipsticks $6 000 of Perfumes...

INJECTION ION OBSE SE ESSION SION

Whatt Is Happening ng To T o Our Faces? s?

OH WHAT AT A NIGHT!

Sexiest Party Seaso son Ever


DECEMBER 132

SINGULAR SENSATIONS Our favorite new scents are built around a single note.

IN THIS ISSUE BEAUTY REPORTER 49 Look We Love: Bright, Punky Eye Shadow

50 Editors’ Favorites 53 Solving a (Literal) HeadScratcher • Crystal-Clear Scents

54 Lupita’s Mane Man: Hairstylist Vernon François • We Test-Drive Lip-Plumping Glosses

58 Cult Object: 12 Days of Manicures by Julep 60 Newly Minted Angel Josephine Skriver • A Hands-Free Makeup Sponge

FASHION 63 Bow Down. Dior’s fanciful, colorful diamond ring

66 Elements of Style. Tank magazine fashion director Caroline Issa styles a striped Chanel sweater three ways.

70 Happy Merry. Four tastemakers help us curate the ultimate holiday shopping list.

NEWS & TRENDS 34 My Look. Talking Beauty With Yasmin Sewell. The streetstyle star on her preshower ritual, daytime eveningwear, the beauty rule she breaks, and more. Evening Standard. Dress up a sleek twisted pony with a pair of statement earrings.

44 Beauty School. Party Tips. Manicurist Madeline Poole’s fourstep nail-art design is both festive and chic.

80 Backstage Beauty. Our favorite looks from the runways of New York City, London, Milan, and Paris. By Sophia Panych

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

DAMIEN ROPERO (SET DESIGNER: FABIEN CAPERAN)

40 Hair Inspiration.


DECEMBER

90 Beauty Passport. Brexit Who? Britannia is cooler than ever, and we have your guidebook for the best places to shop, eat, and—of course—primp on your next visit to London.

96 Phenomenon. Trunk Show. Why settle for one lipstick when you could buy a set of 50? Or one perfume when you could have a box of ten? When more is so, so much more.

FEATURES 104 Off and Running. Gigi Hadid is a model for our weird, hyperconnected world. Just ask her 24 million Instagram followers. By Judith Newman

120 More of the Same. Plumped lips, rounded cheeks, frozen foreheads: Some doctors are taking a one-size-fits-all approach to injectables, and the results are starting to look a little scary. By Elizabeth Siegel

124 The After Afterparty. Gilded animal prints, slinky metallics, sky-high purple platform boots, and we’re just getting started.

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LIFE OF THE PARTY Sequins, glitter, lamé: Check, check, and check. Details, see Shopping Guide.

132 Pure and Simple. Far from straightforward, fragrances built around a single note are virtuoso expressions of perfumers’ artistry, with nuanced depth and surprising complexity. By Liana Schaffner

REGULARS 18 Contributors 22 Editor’s Letter 24 Cover Look 30 Beauty by Numbers

138 Shopping Guide 140 Autobiography. Kaia Gerber fills in the blanks.

Allure Regrets In “Best of Beauty” [October], we misidentified the winning product for the basecoat category. It was the Julep Oxygen Nail Treatment that won the category, not the Julep Oxygen Smoothing Base Coat. Allure regrets the error.

ON THE COVER Gigi Hadid’s look can be re-created with the following: Expert Wear Eyeshadow in Blue Blazes and Constant Toast, The Colossal Spider Effect mascara, Master Contour V-Shape Duo Stick in Light, and Vivid Matte Liquid lip color in Nude Flush by Maybelline New York. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier. Hair: Rudi Lewis. Makeup: Sally Branca. Manicure: Megumi Yamamoto. Prop stylist: Bette Adams. Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

FROM TOP: GIAMPAOLO SGURA; PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

114 Oh, What a Night! ’Tis the season of so many parties. But what to wear, what to serve, and what to do about beard burn— these are questions with very specific answers. We can help.


ALLURE .COM Australian singer Lisa Mitchell

Any Way You

Cut It

10 Best Tips

The Power of Beauty Singer, mother, and yoga guru Kelly Rowland shares her kick-ass fitness routine, skin-care secrets, and much more at allure.com/kelly-rowland.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

Our editors have grilled hundreds of experts and tried thousands of products. Discover the untold secrets at allure .com/beauty-editor-tips. E.L.F. Aqua Beauty Molten Liquid Eyeshadow in Molten Bronze, Rose Gold, and Liquid Gold

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: CYBELE MALINOWSKI; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; 3 DOG PACK PICTURES

Bangs are back in a big way. Hairstylist Harry Josh breaks down the details of the season’s hottest cut and offers advice on finding the most flattering shape—sideswept, blunt, shaggy—for your face, hair type, and lifestyle at allure.com/bangs-tips.


EDITOR IN CHIEF MICHELLE LEE EXECUTIVE EDITOR DANIELLE PERGAMENT

B E AU T Y EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL

BEAUT Y EDITOR LEXI NOVAK BEAUT Y ASSISTANT KATHLEEN SUICO

P H OTO PHOTO DIRECTOR STEPHANIE HUGHES BOOKINGS DIRECTOR RO PENULIAR EXECUTIVE PHOTO EDITOR BETH GARRABRANT

SENIOR PHOTO EDITORS AMBER VENERABLE, HOLLY WATSON ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR HANNAH CHOI

R E S E A RC H RESEARCH DIRECTOR LORI SEGAL

RESEARCH EDITOR AMBER ANGELLE ASSOCIATE RESEARCH EDITOR CRISTINA RIVERA

Hanging with party-giving friends in big apartments.

FAS H I O N FASHION DIRECTOR RACHAEL WANG ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR NICOLE CHAPOTEAU ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR JENNA WOJCIECHOWSKI

A RT I C L E S DEPUT Y EDITOR PATTY ADAMS MARTINEZ

A RT SENIOR ART DIRECTOR NICOLE ARGENTO ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR MEGAN MAQUERA JUNIOR DESIGNER BRIANA MARSHALL

P RO D U CT I O N PRODUCTION DIRECTOR HEATHER TUMA NAPOLITANO PRODUCTION MANAGER VALERIE THOMAS

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT EMMA LOUISE JOSLYN

C O PY COPY CHIEF CATHERINE GAMBRELL COPY EDITOR AURA DAVIES

Only three things: Booze, family, and friends.

A L LU R E .C O M DIGITAL DIRECTOR SIMONE OLIVER DEPUT Y DIGITAL EDITOR RACHEL JACOBY ZOLDAN DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR DEENA CAMPBELL

SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR GERILYN MANAGO DIGITAL EDITORS ELIZABETH DENTON, SEUNGHEE SUH DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY VIDEO PRODUCER MAYA MARGOLINA

“ “

The key to a great holiday season is...

SENIOR BEAUT Y EDITOR JESSICA CHIA

MANAGING EDITOR AMANDA MEIGHER

DESIGN DIRECTOR RENEE RUPCICH

Checking my phone as little as possible.

ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA PRODUCER ARIBA ALVI ASSOCIATE DIGITAL RESEARCH AND COPY EDITOR JANELL HAZELWOOD ASSOCIATE DIGITAL PRODUCER LARA ADEKOLA ASSOCIATE PREDITOR ANNA ST YPKO ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR CHANTEL MOREL SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER RANDI EICHENBAUM ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT LINDSAY SANSONE ANALY TICS MANAGER TULIKA SINGH

CONTRIBUTING PRODUCTION DIRECTOR GRETCHEN VITAMVAS CONTRIBUTING EDITORS JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID DENICOLO, MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, BROOKE LE POER TRENCH, CHRIS McMILLAN, JUDITH NEWMAN, LIANA SCHAFFNER

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PUBLIC RELATIONS ERIN KAPLAN SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR MEGAN SALERNO ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER TAYLOR SHEA ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR IN CHIEF KRISTEN NICHOLS

FO U N D I N G E D I TO R LINDA WELLS

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR ANNA WINTOUR

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI


PUBLISHER, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER AGNES BOGDAN CHAPSKI

I N T EG R AT E D A DV E RT I S I N G EXECUTIVE INTEGRATED DIRECTORS MARIA GARCIA, KIM CONWAY HALEY, LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SANDRA MAURIELLO EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR– FASHION, JEWELRY, AND WATCH SARAH YORK RICHARDS

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE & OPERATIONS KEVIN DONOVAN

D I G I TA L HEAD OF DIGITAL REVENUE NICOLE AMICO SMITH DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES HARRIET KADAR, ALISON WOOD DIGITAL SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER SAMANTHA DANA

INTEGRATED DIRECTOR CARLY GRESH

DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER ERICA CHEUNG

INTEGRATED MANAGER ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY

DIGITAL SALES PLANNER ELIZABETH MILLER

EXECUTIVE SOUTHWEST DIRECTOR EZRA SEAN ALVAREZ 323-965-3564 EXECUTIVE MIDWEST DIRECTORS CHRISTINA KROLOPP 312-649-6731 ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST 312-649-3509 PACIFIC NORTHWEST DIRECTOR NATALIE BANKER TAQUINO 415-955-8280 NEW ENGLAND/DETROIT KRISTIN HAVENS 585-255-0207 DIRECT RESPONSE REBECCA VOLK 800-753-5370 EXT. 489

The key to a great holiday season is...

ITALY ELENA DE GIULI 011-39-02-655-84223 U.K./FRANCE SELIM MATARACI 011-33-1-44-78-00-62

SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR SHERRI GINSBERG EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER VINCENT KEEGAN SALES ASSOCIATES JULIA BROKAW, CAROLINE GRANGER INTEGRATED ASSISTANTS ZUIE BILLINGS, ALEXANDRA KELIKIAN, CARA KURICA, STEPHANIE TILLISON

CONTENT MARKETING & PA RT N E RS H I P S EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS DAVID OLESNEVICH CONTENT MARKETING DIRECTOR ALEXIS WALL BEAUT Y BOX MANAGER NICOLE SAFIR

I N T EG R AT E D M A R K E T I N G & C R E AT I V E S E RV I C E S EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ERIN BRENNAN DESIGN DIRECTOR MARIS BODELL SENIOR DIRECTOR STEFENI BELLOCK

HEAD OF BRAND MARKETING & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON

Not drinking too much at the company party.

DIRECTOR JUSTIN REIS SENIOR MANAGER MALLORY MILLER

M A R K E T I N G S E RV I C E S EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR GERARD FARRELL SENIOR DIRECTOR, MARKETING INTELLIGENCE JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ

P U B L I S H E D BY C O N D É N AST CHAIRMAN EMERITUS S. I. NEWHOUSE , JR. CHAIRMAN CHARLES H. TOWNSEND PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROBERT A . SAUERBERG, JR. CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E . GEITHNER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER & PRESIDENT–CONDÉ NAST MEDIA GROUP EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI CHIEF ADMINISTRATIVE OFFICER JILL BRIGHT

CHIEF HUMAN RESOURCES OFFICER JOANN MURRAY EVP & CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER FRED SANTARPIA EVP–CONSUMER MARKETING MONICA RAY EVP–CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS CAMERON R. BLANCHARD

Homemade Christmas cookies and eggnog in excess.

SVP–BUSINESS OPERATIONS DAVID ORLIN

SVP–CORPORATE CONTROLLER DAVID B. CHEMIDLIN SVP–MANAGING DIRECTOR, 23 STORIES JOSH STINCHCOMB SVP–NET WORK SALES & PARTNERSHIPS, CONDÉ NAST & CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, CNÉ LISA VALENTINO SVP–FINANCIAL PLANNING & ANALYSIS SUZANNE REINHARDT SVP–STRATEGY, 23 STORIES PADRAIG CONNOLLY SVP–AD PRODUCTS & MONETIZATION DAVID ADAMS SVP–LICENSING CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER SVP–RESEARCH & ANALY TICS STEPHANIE FRIED SVP–DIGITAL OPERATIONS LARRY BAACH SVP–HUMAN RESOURCES NICOLE ZUSSMAN

C O N D É N AST E N T E RTA I N M E N T PRESIDENT DAWN OSTROFF EVP/GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL VIDEO JOY MARCUS EVP & CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER SAHAR ELHABASHI EVP–MOTION PICTURES JEREMY STECKLER EVP–ALTERNATIVE T V JOE LABRACIO EVP–CNÉ STUDIOS AL EDGINGTON SVP–MARKETING & PARTNER MANAGEMENT TEAL NEWLAND

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

C O N D É N AST I N T E R N AT I O N A L CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE JONATHAN NEWHOUSE PRESIDENT NICHOLAS COLERIDGE

Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets. CONDENAST.COM CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL .COM

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

GENERAL MANAGER–DIGITAL MATTHEW STARKER


C O N T R I B U TO R S

THERE ARE THE GIFTS YOU CAN’T WAIT TO GIVE, the ones you just want to keep,

MADELINE POOLE

DAVID LYNCH

Manicurist, “Party Tips”

Author and sommelier, “Oh, What a Night!”

“My former boss gave me those speakers that look like rocks— the ones they hide in moss at Disney. They were sooooo cool.”

“A big, busy, old-school raincoat that made me look like Inspector Gadget was probably the worst.”

LAURA FERRARA

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RO PENULIAR

Fashion stylist, “The After Afterparty”

Bookings director, “Off and Running”

“My six-year-old son’s handdrawn stick-figure portrait of our family was the best. The worst? A gym membership.”

“I received a bottle of peach schnapps that I actually drank. But the best was a 1976 black Gibson L6 electric guitar.”

ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

LESLIE KIRCHHOFF (POOLE); MICHAEL CONDRAN (LYNCH); FABIO CHIZZOLA (FERRARA); COURTESY OF SUBJECT (PENULIAR); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (MAKEUP)

and the presents that—for better or worse—you will never forget.


LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

It’s

Alive!

OUR FIRST-EVER AUGMENTED REALITY ISSUE! Download the new Allure Unbound app to make the pages come to life.

SCAN + S EE

FOR MORE CONTENT

’ve been a die-hard magazine lover for as long as I can remember. I would pore over pages of music and culture zines as an adolescent and dog-ear pages in my beloved fashion glossies (I couldn’t bear to rip them out). Fittingly, one of my first part-time jobs as a teenager was maintaining the magazine display at a B. Dalton bookstore, where I’d take extra care to line up the gorgeous covers in the most attractive way possible. To this day, one of my favorite activities is visiting a tiny, hole-in-the-wall corner newsstand in SoHo where they stock nearly every obscure fashion book, including the hard-to-find international ones. We have huge things happening at Allure in digital and video, but the magazine is the foundation of everything. And I’m absolutely giddy about the future of print, which brings me to a very exciting point. For this issue, we’re diving into the world of augmented reality, or AR. Unless you’ve been living in a bunker for the past few years, you’ve probably heard about how AR and its sexy, press-friendly cousin VR will change the way we consume media and entertainment in the coming years. Let me tell you: I’ve gotten a peek into the future, and it’s pretty freakin’ cool. In this issue, you’ll find pages that you can bring to life in 3D using your mobile device. On this page, you can check out me and our cover star, Gigi Hadid, goofing around at the Tommy Hilfiger show. Frankly, I couldn’t imagine launching this new technology with anyone but Gigi, who sits at the nexus of modeling, celebrity, and this new hyperconnected world. Plus, she’s that rare supermodel who’s absolutely joyful in motion. Instead of slipping into modeling’s ubiquitous hurt-puppy, sad-girl look, she leaps, spins, even handstands her way through a shoot, all while looking like she’s having the time of her life—probably because she is. Download our app, Allure Unbound, for iOS or Android, and hover your phone over the icon to watch our pages come to life. I hope you have as much fun exploring these pages as we did creating them.

With Gigi Hadid at Tommy Hilfiger’s spring 2017 show

Michelle Lee, Editor in Chief @heymichellelee

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (MAKEUP); BLUE SOHO (LEE AND HADID)

unbound


COVER LOOK

Watch a behind-thescenes video of Hadid’s cover shoot at allure.com/gigi-bts.

GIGI HADID

Behind the scenes at Allure’s cover shoot.

This page: Dresses from Southpaw Vintage. Details, see Shopping Guide.

SCAN + S EE

FOR BRANDED CONTENT

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

ROBERT MASSMAN (2)

S

he’s a model, a boxer, a high-school volleyball champ, and possibly even a horse whisperer. When Zulu, a 14-year-old Lusitano, got spooked on the set of Gigi Hadid’s first Allure cover shoot, the model, unfazed, walked over to the gelding and put him at ease with a few soothing pats. After a breakfast of a Starbucks cinnamon bun and a peppermint latte, Hadid slipped into a red lace Valentino gown and hopped on the horse’s back to pose beneath a crystal-clear New York City sky. In between shots (and bites of pasta with meatballs for lunch), Hadid switched roles with photographer Patrick Demarchelier, snapping candids of him with her own Polaroid. She got so comfortable on set (even stripping down to practically her birthday suit for a series of shots) that the model joked about moving into the Long Island City loft and cooking dinner for everyone that night. Maybe next time. She still had to squeeze in another photo shoot before walking the runway at Anna Sui the next day. —REPORTING BY PATTY ADAMS MARTINEZ


COVER LOOK Left: Dress by Valentino. Boots, stylist’s own. Vintage hat from Early Halloween. Details, see Shopping Guide.

SCAN + S EE

BEAUTY LESSON

Hair Like so many good things, Hadid’s storybook curls started with a mound of volumizing mousse and a blowout. Then hairstylist Rudi Lewis wrapped one-inch sections around two narrow curling irons of different sizes “so it didn’t look uniform and fake.” He brushed out Hadid’s hair and misted it with thickening spray, then had the model flip her head upside down to shake her spirals for extra body.

Hadid’s look can be re-created with the following (clockwise from top left): Master Contour V-Shape Duo Stick in Light, Vivid Matte Liquid lip color in Nude Flush, Expert Wear Eyeshadow in Blue Blazes and Constant Toast, and The Colossal Spider Effect mascara by Maybelline New York.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

Makeup “Gigi has an all-American natural glow,” said makeup artist Sally Branca, who turned up the light by blending peach cream blush on the apples of Hadid’s cheeks and tapping highlighter at the inner corners of her eyes and down the bridge of her nose. Branca layered brown and blue shadows on the model’s lids, then curled her lashes and coated them with mascara. She painted Hadid’s lips with a mix of taupe and apricot lipsticks, diffusing the color with her finger to soften any harsh lines.

ROBERT MASSMAN (HADID); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

FOR MORE CONTENT


BEAUT Y BY NUMBERS

SPARKLE

Glimmer, glitter, shimmer, sparkle—it’s a semantic minefield. Whatever you call these tiny reflective mood lifters, one thing is clear: We can’t get enough of them. —REPORTING BY JESA CALAOR

3

TABLESPOONS OF SILVER glitter used by makeup artist Val Garland to create shimmery face tattoos on models who walked in the spring 2017 Giamba show.

50

DIFFERENT TYPES OF glitter in Garland’s kit.

377,303

From top: M.A.C. Glitter in 3D Platinum, Make Up For Ever Medium Glitters in N44, and Make Up For Ever Graphic Glitters in 1.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

207

AVERAGE AMOUNT spent on an engagement ring in America in 2015.

NUMBER OF LED bulbs in artist Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room, designed to make visitors feel as if they are floating amid the stars.

,500 NUMBER OF VISITORS WHO have spent 45 seconds in the closet-size installation since it began touring in 2013.

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

$75

5,871

APPROXIMATE NUMBER of engagement rings and wedding bands purchased from Tiffany & Co. in 2015.


MY LOOK

Talking Beauty With

YASMIN SEWELL For one street-style star, taking care of yourself is about more than looking good—it’s the secret to finding balance.

E

Reporting by Patty Adams Martinez very once in a while, the Internet Industrial Complex does something really freaking cool. Like create a world in which you can see an image‚ be inspired, and shop the look at the click of a button. And if anyone were to embody that awesomeness of possibility, it’d be Yasmin Sewell. If you haven’t heard of her, here’s a primer: She’s an Australian native, a bona fide street-style star, and a global poster child for #curlyhair inspo. Oh, and she’s also the fashion director of Style.com, curating the site’s new beauty and fashion e-commerce destination. This is very, very good news for the rest of us. Here’s a preview of what to expect, including the exact shade of blue eyeliner that all the cool girls are wearing and a totally innovative, multitasking cleanser from London’s top facialist.

On dressing for your hair: “I always like a contrast between beauty and fashion. If I have a girlie haircut, like a curly bob, I’ll wear more masculine clothes. But when I wore my hair in a buzz cut for about four years in my 20s, I dressed in really ultrafeminine looks, like off-the-shoulder dresses.”

Knit top and skirt by Proenza Schouler. Earrings, Sewell’s own. Makeup colors: Lash Power Flutter-to-Full Mascara, Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Heaping Hazelnut, and Uplighting Illuminating Powder in Nude Glow by Clinique. Hair: Jimo Salako of Salako London. Makeup: Elias Hove. Fashion stylist: Lola Chatterton. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KRISTIN VICARI

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

Above: “When I want to draw attention to my eyes, I go for this vivid blue,” says Sewell of M.A.C. Powerpoint Eye Pencil in Prussian.


MY LOOK On her laser nonsecret: “I grew up seeing women getting pampered at my mom’s salon in Australia. By 13, I was getting facials quite regularly, which wasn’t the case for most teens—at least back then. Now I make sure to get a facial once a month with Vaishaly at Vaishaly in London, and for the last two years, I’ve upped the ante with Fraxel laser treatments twice a year—it makes your skin smoother and less blotchy and gives it a nice glow.”

1 Christophe Robin Regenerating Mask “makes my hair look and feel great.” 2 Oribe Signature Shampoo. 3 Kérastase Gommage Chronologiste: “A healthy scalp is the foundation for good hair.” 4 In Fiore Lucense Illuminating Floral Extract. 5 Eve Lom Cleanser “feels like a mini facial.” 6 Elemental Herbology Cell Nourish Radiance and Vitality Facial Serum “makes my skin glow.”

2

3

On mastering her curls: “I have gone to the same hairdresser, Jimo Salako of Salako London, for 18 years. He understands the texture of my hair and cuts it in a way that thins it out. I also do a keratin treatment every three months, which helps it stay frizz-free for a while.”

1

4

On a very uncomfortable three minutes: “I dry-brush my skin for three minutes before I get into the shower. It’s really good for detoxifying, lymphatic drainage, circulation, and skin conditioning.”

5

6

On ball gowns for daytime: “Living in London for 20 years has added more whimsy to my style. I love that I can walk down the street in a sailor hat and ball gown and it’s perfectly acceptable. Style should be fun.”

“I had a buzz cut for four years in my 20s, and that was the most freeing, powerful thing I could have ever done.”

On the secret to a better life: “Meditation has saved me. I fall in and out of it when I get too busy, but I’ve been practicing Vedic meditation for almost 20 years. When I make time to meditate, my life is so much better on every level.”

On what it takes to be a muse: “To me, what makes

On rule-breaking: “When I’ve been up too late, I don’t take off my mascara. I’m such a rebel, right? Otherwise, I take care of myself, eat well, don’t drink much alcohol or coffee, do Pilates and yoga when possible. I believe beauty comes from within, so I take a holistic approach.”

Sewell at New York fashion week

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

Watch Yasmin Sewell share her favorite style essentials at allure.com/yasmin.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

someone beautiful is her energy and how she exudes happiness. My beauty muses are the same as Woody Allen’s muses from the ’70s and ’80s: Diane Keaton, Mia Farrow, Meryl Streep. They all had a very natural look and were gorgeous.”


H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N

Annelise Michelson earrings, $525 (annelise michelson.com).

Evening

Jennifer Fisher earrings, $495 (jenniferfisher jewelry.com).

Standard

When is a supercool hair twist more than a supercool hair twist? When you pair it with sculpture, for starters. By Jessica Chia

Lurex sweater by Cédric Charlier. Earrings by Maiyet. MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Fresh Papaya by Neutrogena. Hair: Zaiya Latt. Makeup: Cynthia Sobek. Model: Leaf Zhang. Fashion stylist: Nina Sterghiou. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW STINSON

Khiry earrings, $525 (khiry.com). LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)

Your cocktail-party look is here, so take note: Pull your hair into a sleek ponytail, split it in half, and run pomade down the length of each section. Twist both to the right, then wrap the right half over the left and repeat until you reach the ends. Secure with an elastic. “The sections are twisted and wrapped in opposite directions, and that tension keeps them in place,” says hairstylist Zaiya Latt. Raise the celebratory stakes higher with earrings—scratch that, ear sculptures. Toss a pair of these graphic designs in your bag and consider the day-to-night transition handled.


BY JESA CALAOR

Beauty School

T H E T I P S , T H E S H O R T C U T S , A N D A L L T H E S T E P - B Y- S T E P S

PARTY TIPS

Festive, elegant, and indefinably cool, this abstract manicure brings the happy hour to your nails.

Cotton-blend dress and silk dress by Maison Margiela. Gold earrings by Mateo New York. Makeup colors: Ready Eyeshadow 8.0 in The Bare Neutrals and Gen Nude Radiant Lipstick in Sexpot by BareMinerals. Color Therapy nail polish in Soothing Sapphire, Robes and RosĂŠ, Reflection Pool, and Therapewter by Sally Hansen. These pages: Manicure, Madeline Poole; hair, Zaiya Latt; makeup, Cynthia Sobek. Model: Brionka Halbert. Fashion stylist: Nina Sterghiou. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW STINSON

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016


BEAUT Y SCHOOL

GET THE LOOK: PARTY TIPS We gave manicurist Madeline Poole one mission— create a holiday nail-art design with more spirit than a tinsel-covered disco ball. Man, did she deliver.

1

Take a look at your outfit for the evening and think about how you could coordinate your nails. (If that sentence struck you as even the slightest bit absurd, go for a classic cherry-red mani and call it a night.) “You can match your nails to your shoes, your pants, anything,” says Poole, who played off the jewel-toned palette of a Roger Vivier clutch (below) to create this four-color design. Ready? Paint on two coats of the darkest color (in this case, navy).

2

Once the base color is dry, use a striping brush (the kind with the long, skinny bristles) to paint your design. Poole, the global color ambassador for Sally Hansen, was inspired by houndstooth here—but to us the pattern looks like deconstructed stars. To create geometric shapes like these, “make a series of dots on each nail and then connect them,” says Poole.

3

4

Dip the striping brush into your base shade and use it to sharpen the edges of each shape. “You can also cover up any mistakes,” says Poole. Give it all at least five minutes to dry, then paint over the nails with a topcoat.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

Embellished satin bag by Roger Vivier. Above: Color Therapy nail polish in Soothing Sapphire by Sally Hansen. Details, see Shopping Guide.

LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)

Alternate between three accent shades—Poole chose magenta, gold, and teal. Whichever shade goes up to the top of the nail should be wrapped all the way around the tip. ”This is called capping the free edge,” says Poole. It helps prevent chips.


FROM TOP: GORUNWAY.COM; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

At Jill Stuart, models wore the house’s own Macaron Couture Eyes Palette in #01 and #03. Below: Clinique All About Shadow Single in Rock Violet and Lemongrass.

LOOK WE LOVE

In the Club If you believe the spring runways, the Palladium is alive and well and kicking till sunrise. Exhibit A: the audaciously bright pink-and-green shadows at Jill Stuart. They’re punk; they’re pretty; they’re the opposite of no-makeup makeup (finally). Buff on the color, dust some glitter on top, and if you want to crank up Cyndi Lauper, well, all the better.

Beauty Reporter

T H E B E AU T Y N E W S YO U N E E D T O K N O W N O W


BE AUT Y REPORTER

A Touchy SUBJECT

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TA K I N G N OT E S

FROM TOP: BRYDIE MACK; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

Clear Winners These see-through perfumes may seem like odes to simplicity. But look past their transparency and you’ll find plenty of complexity, inside and out: latticepatterned glass; a decanter with both sloping curves and sharp angles; a vitrified, hyperpolished stirrup. The smoky Galop d’Hermès sprinkles rose with saffron, then wraps them in a taut leather note, while Alaïa Blanche dips heliotrope into a pool of almond and vanilla absolute. EB Florals’ Kingston Osmanthus roots sparkling violet leaves and jasmine petals with deep musk. These scents capture light and cast shadows. And, fittingly, smell like beautiful studies in contrast. —J. C. From left: Galop d’Hermès, EB Florals by Eric Buterbaugh Kingston Osmanthus, and Alaïa Eau de Parfum Blanche.

f your scalp inexplicably feels like you rubbed it with a ghost pepper, you’re not alone. Researchers are finally shining light on fussy skin—that isn’t on your face. The problem is called scalp sensitivity, and it’s exactly what it sounds like—burning, prickling, itchiness, and tightness on your scalp. New studies reveal it happens after contact with normally harmless things like hair products...or air (and its pollutants). Note: This irritation is a different beast than dandruff, which can be hella itchy but is typically caused by a fungus and comes with telltale flaking. Scalp touchiness isn’t surprising: The area has more blood vessels than any other on the body, and each hair follicle has four different types of nerve endings. But it is challenging to treat (how do you avoid air?). Studies recommend using a shampoo with heavy-metal-removing ingredients, like disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, or sodium citrate (try Earth’s Nectar Mint Leaves Tea Tree Shampoo). It will lift away the pollutants that can speed exfoliation of the scalp’s outer layers and heighten sensitivity. Oral antioxidants, like Viviscal and Nutrafol, may help, too, says Nicole Rogers, a dermatologist and hair-transplant surgeon in Metairie, Louisiana. She also tells patients who complain of a tight or burning scalp to switch to a sulfate- and fragrance-free shampoo (the Earth’s Nectar formula also fits that bill): “That often clears up the problem in less than a week.” —JESSICA CHIA


BE AUT Y REPORTER

VERNON François BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

François with client Lupita Nyong’o. “Lupita and I have become such good friends. Everything we do is collaborative,” he says.

definition of “textured” hair—fine curls, thick coils, braids, locs, extensions. A few standouts: spray-on (genius!) wash-out conditioners that detangle hair without suffocating it, a braid- and loc-specific dry oil that softens without greasiness, and a mist that veils hair with subtle gold flecks. Told you he makes people shine. —JESSICA CHIA

From left: Vernon François Pure-Fro Conditioner, Scalp Nourishment Braids and Locs Spray, Curl-Command Moisture Spray, and Dazzling Spritz Shine Spray.

HERE’S A QUESTION

Do Lip-Plumping Glosses Really Work?

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heir promises struck us as inflated, you might say, so we recently unpacked several dozen lip-plumping glosses and started swiping. And we didn’t stop until our lips were numb. Here’s what we learned: The only formulas that really, truly made our lips look fuller were the ones that contain benzyl nicotinate, an ester that increases blood flow. The Grande Lips Hydrating Lip Plumper and WunderKiss Controlled Lip Plumping Gloss tingled immediately and produced noticeably, undeniably, and if we may say, mesmerizingly bigger lips within 15 minutes. The effects lasted about four hours. Every other new option created less obvious (but 100 percent tingle-free) swelling. Stila Lush Lips Water Plumping Primer and Estée Lauder New Dimension Plump + Fill Lip Treatment contain forms of hyaluronic acid and “filling spheres” (dehydrated capsules derived from marine collagen). Both ingredients expand when they absorb surrounding moisture, explains cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson, causing your lips to puff slightly. Think of it as more of a spider bite than a full-on bee sting. —LEXI NOVAK

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FROM TOP: BLOSSOM BERKOFSKY; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; FRAUKE FISCHER-IKEDA/BLAUBLUT-EDITION.COM

François is the personification of a Pharrell song: the crinkly-eyed grin, the infectious laugh, and the glinting—no, glittering—studded sneakers. And the English hairstylist (Lupita Nyong’o, Uzo Aduba, and Tracee Ellis Ross are clients—and friends) is determined to see other people just as happy. “Growing up, I was dyslexic, redheaded, and black; I know what it feels like to be insecure,” François says. “Anytime a woman sits in my chair, I strive to make her feel confident.” By eight, François was playing with ways to style his own hair, practicing braids on every curtain tassel and mophead he came across. “I was determined to make braiding less painful,” says the 31-year-old. “I was born into a Rastafarian family; I’m fully aware of the frustrations around managing locs, braids, and curls.” These days, his schedule is packed in a way befitting a celebrity hairstylist: doing his signature dry cuts at Smiths Salon in London, styling clients in New York City and Los Angeles—oh, and maybe you saw the two-foot-tall updo he did for Nyong’o at the Met Gala? But what has most of his attention right now is his new hair-care line, 13 luxurious (you’ll find them on Net-aPorter) products designed for every


CULT OBJECT

BOX SET

Life is like a box of chocolates, which is to say messy and often laced with guilt. We prefer a glossier, more surreal form of indulgence, like this new Julep nail-polish set, appropriately called #Coveted. The whimsical gift box—the work of illustrator Kristjana Williams—holds a dozen mini bottles of lacquer that graduate from milky beige to moody navy, with a few dreamy jewel tones and metallics scattered in. Our favorite is a mix of rose-colored confetti and chunky gold glitter that’s both holographic and gritty. And each bottle cap has a nifty blank space for swatching the color, so you’ll always know what you’re going to get. —LIANA SCHAFFNER Julep #Coveted 12 Piece Mini Nail Set, $48 (ulta.com).

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)

BE AUT Y REPORTER


BE AUT Y REPORTER

A Digital Revolution

OUR GIRL CRUSH

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osephine Skriver is part thrill-seeking tomboy, part model whose job it is to stride down runways in very elegant (Oscar de la Renta) or very tiny (Victoria’s Secret) clothes. As a newly named Victoria’s Secret Angel, she’s on the cusp of first-name fame, scores of red-carpet appearances, and—yawn—private-plane rides. A glimpse of a woman on the verge: Her early artwork: “When I was ten, I stole my mom’s lipstick, used it to draw a tiger face on my brother, and spent the next two hours trying to get it off of him.” What’s always with her: “I take masks with me everywhere, especially on planes. I try all kinds, but I really like SK-II and Shiseido sheet masks.” The weird thing she does with flatware: “I shield my lids with a spoon [to avoid smudges] when I apply mascara. Especially backstage— someone’s always bumping into you.” Why she’s cooler than an arctic fox: “I’ve hiked the world’s biggest cave, Son Doong, in Vietnam. Fewer people

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have been to this cave than to the North Pole; we were on the waiting list for a year.” Her unlikely moment of nostalgia: “My grandma always smelled of Elnett. At my first modeling job, I thought they’d have all these cool, high-fashion products, but they pulled out my grandma’s hair spray. It really brought me back.” How she gets dressed: “Perfume is the first thing I put on in the morning and the last thing I take off at night. Victoria’s Secret Paris has a sensual but subtle scent. You know when you’re on a first date and finally get close enough to know what they smell like? It’s like that.” —JESSICA CHIA

A few favorites (clockwise from top): Shiseido Benefiance Pure Retinol Intensive Revitalizing Face Mask, Victoria’s Secret Paris Eau de Parfum, and L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray.

You know what your makeup routine needs? A foam thimble. And yes, there is such a thing. Like any good sponge, it has the power to make your foundation (blush, highlighter, whatever) actually blurry. Think about that. Who wouldn’t want to be out of focus and lit by candles all day? But now you have even more blending control and you can leave your hands free to hold whatever else. (It’s kind of like a Bluetooth headset, except it will make you look better and not like a jackass.) Slip a makeup finger puppet, which sounds better than a foam thimble, onto your ring finger (it’s your weakest) for the delicate skin around your eyes and on your index finger for blending around the nose and the hairline. —KATHLEEN SUICO

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MATT JONES/ART PARTNER LICENSING; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)

Makeup Bullet HiDef Cosmetic Finger Sponge


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

It’s opulence worthy of royalty: A blinding arrangement of pink sapphires, round-cut diamonds, and a 2.46-carat yellow-diamond pendant inspired by the rococo interiors of Versailles.

Fashion Notes

Bow Down CULT OBJECT

Dior Fine Jewelry diamond-sapphire-and-gold ring, price available upon request (800-929-DIOR).

DECEMBER 2016 ALLURE

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NOTES

ELEMENTS OF

Style

1 SWEATER, 3 WAYS

There’s what Caroline Issa wears with a zip-up sweater—and then there’s how she puts on that sweater in the first place. The latter is what makes the fashion director of Tank magazine street-style royalty. Chanel cotton sweater, $2,950, at Chanel stores. Viscose silk dress by Boss. Suede shoes by Gianvito Rossi. Earrings and rings, Issa’s own. Makeup colors: Brow This Way Brow Sculpting Kit in Medium Brown, Provocalips 16HR Kissproof Lip Colour in Kiss Me You Fool, and Kate Sculpting & Highlighting Kit in Golden Bronze by Rimmel London. These pages: Hair, Tracie Cant; makeup, Liz Pugh. Fashion stylist: Nathalie Riddle. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SIMON EMMETT

“I love the ’50s shape of the dress with the swingy skirt— the sweater gives it gravitas. Take it off, add statement earrings, and you’re ready for a romantic dinner.” 66

ALLURE DECEMBER 2016


NOTES: ELEMENTS OF STYLE

“With fashion, there should be no rules, so I wore the sweater backward to give it a different neckline.”

“Baring your shoulders is sexier than showing off your cleavage. And the red pants brighten up the whole outfit.”

FAVORITE THINGS

JEWELRY:

“A pendant I inherited from my grandmother that has two jade acorns on it.” BAG: “Moynat’s Rejane.” LINGERIE: “Araks is old-school sexy.” FRAGRANCE: “When I wear Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle, strangers come up to me to ask what I’m wearing.” VINTAGE SHOPPING: “Marlene Wetherell in New York City or 1stdibs.com.” JEANS: “My M.i.h’s have a slight flare at the ankle that gives them a vintage nod.” LIPSTICK: “Shu Uemura— all the reds and oranges they make.” Above: Cotton linen skirt by Joseph. Velvet shoes by Jimmy Choo. Left: Viscose-blend pants by Ann Taylor. Velvet shoes by Jimmy Choo. Details, see Shopping Guide.

DECEMBER 2016 ALLURE

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happy Oh, the holidays—the time of year when you watch someone unwrap a five-wick candle, feign delight, and force a smile on her face. Let’s face it: The holiday season is also the damn awkward season. So this year, we got four of the coolest women we know to tell us exactly what they want to give (and get). Whether your shopping-list ideas come from the actual goods or the places that inspired them, the best thing you can give anyone is a genuine reason to smile. By Jessica Chia

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JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

merry


GIFT GUIDE

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“I love ve a Zimmermann dres ess. I really like supporting Australian su brands.” Below: Looks b from the designer’s fall 2016 show.

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“Sausage and bread— and a beautiful salad—are staples at barbecues.”

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SOUTHERN CHARMS

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Warne at Australia’s famous Ayers Rock

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

olidays in Tasmania are as chill as they come. “I’ll throw on a maxidress,” says Nicole Warne, a native Australian and the founder of the lifestyle blog Gary Pepper. “I can wear it to the beach during the day and out to a barbecue at night.” Her other picks for the season: 1 Sephora Collection Cat Nap sleep mask is the secret to shut-eye on long-haul flights. $14 (sephora.com). 2 Charlotte Tilbury Giant Magic Cream turns skin luminous. $255 (charlottetilbury.com). 3 Aerie slippers as cheeky as they are cozy. $24.95 (aerie.com). 4 The kitschy pins on this bag from Chanel’s cruise 2017 collection put the quilted classic in vacation mode. $4,200, at Chanel stores. 5 A dreamy spray of ear bling: Dior Diorama Precieuse Earrings. $17,000, at select Dior stores. 6 The floral Tom Ford Orchid Soleil has an unexpected dash of pink peppercorn. $120 (tomford.com).


GIFT GUIDE

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GETTING WARMER

“ I could “If ld pick i k one d designer i tto outtfit my whole (fantasy) life, it’d be Louis Vuitton’s creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière.” Left: Looks from the designer’s fall 2016 show.

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usually go to Miami for the holidays,” says Glossier founder Emily Weiss. “The Standard hotel there has one of the most beautiful hammams I’ve ever seen.” A few other holiday indulgences: 1 Marc Jacobs Beauty About Lash Night 3-Piece Mascara and Eyeliner Collection makes lashes sparkle. $36 (sephora.com). 2 The Black Tie Set from Glossier (Weiss’s own line) lends a subtle pink tint to lips and nails and a gleam to cheekbones. $50 (glossier.com). 3 Anissa Kermiche earrings are mini objets d’art for the ears. $467 (anissakermiche.com). 4 Gucci’s dog-embroidered Maxi hobo tops Weiss’s list this year. $3,500 (gucci.com). 5 For her dad: Clarins Double Serum, $89 (clarins .com). “I shared this serum with him once, and now it’s the only skin-care product he uses.” 6 And shades to be noticed in: Fendi sunglasses, $525 (fendi.com).

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

The Standard Miami Beach

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

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GIFT GUIDE 2 1

“Ulla Johnson’s stuff makes me feel so confident and pretty. I want it all!” Below: Looks from the designer’s fall 2016 show.

MOUNTAIN HIGHS

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Webb Web b’ss hi h gh gh altitu ghalt ltitu itude tude e d sttin des tinati inati ation on o n th tthi hiis year: yea ye ea ar: Whi histl hi istl s er, st er, Br Briti itish iti tiish Columb C bia ia a. FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

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’m a pretty terrible skier,” admits Drybar founder Alli Webb, who nevertheless packs up her family every winter to hit the slopes. “It’s really fun seeing my kids learn.” Skiing or not—mostly not—Webb has her eye on these key pieces. 1 “I use Deborah Lippmann when I polish my own nails.” Her Majesty Holiday 2016 Limited Edition Set (Crown Velvet shown), $45 (deborahlippmann.com). 2 Drybar The 3-Day Bender Digital Curling Iron “makes my blowouts last a second—and third—day.” $135 (thedrybar.com). 3 Lite + Cycle Perfume Oils are by turns sweet (the lavender-and-rose Ingrace) and sexy (vetiver-and-sandalwood Inheart). $58 each (liteandcycleshop .com). 4 “I’ve been wearing jewelry by Kathleen Whitaker for forever. I’ve given gifts of her creations so many times.” Lapis Slice earrings, $1,775 (kathleenwhitaker.com). 5 Tiffany & Co. Atlas wide cuff is worth its weight in 18-karat at you-know-what. $12,500 (tiffany.com).

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GIFT GUIDE

1 Kadakia performs a traditional Indian dance.

2

3

GOING TO TOWN

T   FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

here are a lot of kids in our family now, so we stay at home in New York for the holidays,” says ClassPass cofounder (and professional Indian dancer) Payal Kadakia, who draws inspiration from the bright lights of the big city. 1 January Labs Glow & Go Power Peel Exfoliant keeps skin dewy in winter. $75 (januarylabs .com). 2 Dance in bracelet form: Hearts on Fire Atlantico Wave cuff, $19,900 (heartsonfire.com). 3 “I love hats—I’ll keep one on during a party.” Calvin Klein Collection cashmere cap, $395, at Calvin Klein stores. 4 Fendi’s open-toe Wave shoes are reason to keep a fresh pedicure after the first frost. $1,000 (fendi.com). 5 Fresh Mini Mask Spa caters to every concern. $93 (fresh.com). 6 “Maison du Chocolat is my hostessgift go-to.” Truffles, $96 (lamaison duchocolat.us). 7 Chanel’s brooch is a modern heirloom. $600, at Chanel stores.

5 “I like that Tory Burch’s designs are simple yet sophisticated. I wear everything from her jewelry to her fitness clothing.” Left: Looks from the designer’s fall 2016 show.

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A classic New York City landmark: The Plaza Hotel as seen from Central Park.

DECEMBER 2016 ALLURE

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Back Beauty

COURTESY OF FENDI

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stage

The spring runways were many things: An homage to the ’80s, a tale of romance, a glitter-filled fashion party. So break out the sparkle, swirl on the blush, and get ready for a season in which the rules—not to mention the status quo—are flying right out the window.

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By Sophia Panych


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Backstage Beauty

1 At Rodarte, hairstylist Odile Gilbert decorated the hair with scraps of fabric from the collection. 2 “Old Dutch Master paintings” were the inspiration for the look at Erdem.

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TREND

TRUE ROMANCE 1

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TREND

SERVING PLAITS Sharp, precise, and tight as hell ( just ask the models), our favorite braids call for a little styling cream, a leather jacket, and a devil-may-care attitude. 3

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1 Tiny side braids created the illusion of Mohawks at Andrew Gn. 2 At Emporio Armani, hairstylist Rudi Lewis sewed five braided extensions into the models’ own hair. 3 Upside-down braids gave sleek knots a bit of an edge at Dior, said hairstylist Guido.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF NARS COSMETICS; IMAXTREE (2); JASON LLOYD-EVANS; IMAXTREE

Swaths of chiffon tucked into rumpled waves. Tea-stained eyes and lips. Wisps of hair grazing the cheekbones. Lines from a sonnet? Nope, just this season’s most poetic hair and makeup looks.


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Backstage Beauty

1

3

TREND

COLOR SHOCK

4

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: FRANCOIS G. DURAND/WIREIMAGE; IMAXTREE (5)

This is the season for hot-pink lips, neon-yellow cat eyes—and a whole lot of moxie. “It’s about one bold element on clean skin,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath, who used bright, opaque colors to highlight one feature at a time. The effect was playful, striking, and totally inspired. 1 At Ports 1961, makeup artist Val Garland used cream shadow to paint aqua stripes across lids. 2 Matte fuchsia lips and no mascara at Mary Katrantzou. 3 Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni winged out forestgreen shadow at Versus Versace. 4 Yellow earlobes at Proenza Schouler. 5 Sharp neonyellow wings at Haider Ackermann. 6 Salvatore Ferragamo’s rainbow shoes inspired colorful arches above the crease.

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DECEMBER 2016 ALLURE

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Backstage Beauty

1 Guido layered shine spray over gel for the shiny knots at Givenchy. 2 At Balmain, makeup artist Tom Pecheux put clear gloss on top of pearly highlighter for a postbeach glow.

TREND

HEY, SLICK

Models were soaked in everything but water. Makeup artists and hairstylists dove into clear gloss, pomade, shine spray, and gel to create provocative wet looks.

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TREND

GETTING CHEEKY

Forget strobing. Makeup artists brought back draping, an old-school technique of sculpting the face with blush. It’s an ’80s throwback that “contours and highlights the face at the same time,” said makeup artist Lynsey Alexander.

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1 Pecheux brushed fuchsia blush along the cheekbones and temples at Chanel. 2 At Kenzo, Alexander buffed red cream around the eyes. “A light base keeps it looking modern,” she said.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JASON LLOYD-EVANS; IMAXTREE; DRIELY S; BENOÎT PEVERELLI

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Backstage Beauty

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TREND

PARTY TRICKS

Real flowers, hair baubles, buckets of glitter, and very off-label uses for lash glue—this was the season models transformed into club kids, runways turned into raves, and everyone was invited. 4

1 “It’s a mix of playful and punk,” said makeup artist Peter Philips of the glitter lips, graphic cat eyes, and rainbow-studded pigtails at Fendi. 2 The multicolored wool locs at Marc Jacobs, the designer’s homage to raver hair, were seen by some as inappropriate, an instance of cultural appropriation. 3 At Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Garland dreamed of Woodstock and glued real flowers onto the skin. 4 Hairstylist Paul Hanlon crimped and teased the bejesus out of models’ hair at Gucci, where the runway evoked a ’70s nightclub. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KEVIN TACHMAN; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; IMAXTREE (2)

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Beauty

Passport

NEWS, TREATMENTS, AND OUR LATEST

OBSESSIONS FROM ABROAD

Brexit Who? You may have seen London in the headlines recently. But the news isn’t all political. Don’t forget, this is the place that gave us mod, Abbey Road, and Cara Delevingne’s eyebrows. The British capital will always be a hotbed of style.

East End girl

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

DAVID BURTON/TRUNK ARCHIVE

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uring my first trip to England, I slept on a fluffy pillow monogrammed with my initials at Claridge’s hotel in London, rode through the countryside on a private train, and sipped champagne in an actual palace with a 50-piece military orchestra and towers of tea snacks. I realize that none of this is normal. But I was there for the insanely lavish Dior cruise show. On a rainy English day, I sat in a cozy library at Blenheim Palace and watched the collection, which was long on dark, brooding floral prints, float by. It was a glorious excuse to touch down in London, which had always been that city for me—the one I knew an awful lot about but had never visited. I’d been all over Europe (Barcelona, Milan, even the lovely little river town Dinant in Belgium), but I’m slightly embarrassed to admit that I’d never set foot in one of the world’s style capitals until this year. My timing was perfect, though: London is having a serious beauty moment. There are crazy-cool new British brands, like 001 Skincare London, Pestle & Mortar, and Nailberry (believe me, I made room in my suitcase). Trendsetting makeup artists are taking glittery inspiration from the city’s ’80s club-kid culture. And Londoners are even leaning on beauty as a respite from political frustration; demand for calming spa visits and massages spiked after the Brexit vote. London is a wonderful place to see, shop, eat, and carouse—whether you’re sipping tea from Dior china or not. —MICHELLE LEE


THE NEW DOMINO BOOK IS HERE AVAILABLE AT AMAZON.COM


B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MELODIE JENG/GETTY IMAGES; LAURENCE HOWE; VINCENT LAPPARTIENT FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR; COURTESY OF LILY VANILLI

Basement club Visions Video Bar stays open until 6 A.M.

Do Like the Cool Kids Hair colorist Alex Brownsell is the mascot of east London’s trendy Dalston neighborhood. Her secret city guidebook: Your night out. “Next to my salon, Bleach, is Faulkner’s, which has the most amazing fish and chips. I co-own a bar next to that, Pamela, with cold-pressed cocktails. Next, the Alibi—an underground club full of kids so cool, it’s terrifying—or Visions Video Bar. They don’t have tap beers—only bottles of Coke and gin and plastic cups.” What trends are coming out of London street style? “Eighties metal and glam rock.” And out of the salon? “Layers. People are saying, ‘I want a shag! I want a mullet!’ ” You rock a bit of vintage. Best sources? “Rellik, and it’s relatively affordable. One of a Kind is great for ’70s dresses.” —SARAH BALL

Model Damaris Goddrie at London fashion week

Your Beauty Itinerary Not a bad way to see the city. Two possibly oppositional facts: London worships the dewy-skin no-makeup look, and London is infamously dirty. So the new Pfeffer Sal salon in Fitzrovia offers smog-neutralizing flourishes, like peels and lymphatic massage. Pfeffersal.com Next on the British beauty-trademark list: Cara Delevingne brows. A Wanted Man, a brunch spot/brow salon, lets you recover from “croiwaffles” (avocado-topped croissant-waffles) at the Browhaus upstairs. They do excellent tinting and shaping. Awantedman.co.uk For a pop of mod, Imarni Nails is the nail-art mecca in Shoreditch. The craziest designs are as bright and riotous as the area’s abundant street art. It’s in a pop-up mall in a park (of course it is), so you can duck next door for matcha soft-serve. Imarninails.com —S. B.

Backstage at the Dior cruise show

Spots of Tea Sure, you can still do extravagant high tea where a guy in a top hat brings jam-bleeding cakes to you “by trolley.” But to feel less like the nonagenarian monarch: Lily Vanilli is a ludicrously good east London bakery that serves chocolate-mint-truffle tea and mini strawberry shortcakes. It’s in an alley off Instagram heaven, the famous Columbia Road Flower Market. Cuke sandwiches nonnegotiable? The Ham Yard Hotel in Soho offers traditional (and delicious) tea in a hipper outfit— the scones with clotted cream come on neon Lucite trays. —S. B.

Squash-andcheddar toast and vegan mango tea cake at Lily Vanilli

DECEMBER 2016 ALLURE

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TRUNK

SHOW

Fifty lipsticks in a single set, makeup palettes with 100-plus shades, and fragrances by the suitcase. Enter a world of beauty where quality meets (so very much) quantity. By Ramona Emerson 96

ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE. MANICURE: ALICIA TORELLO.

PHENOMENON


PHENOMENON

BULGARI LE GEMME COLLECTION LUXURY GIFT SET You get: Six perfumes in a softly lined lacquered box It costs: $1,950 You’ll keep coming back to: The fresh and woody Lilaia—and also the case itself (it makes a gorgeous jewelry box).

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

something that I’d ever toss in my makeup bag. But next to 49 other variously awesome lipsticks, Elliott was looking more and more...regal? Relevant? Necessary. Ralph Lauren Sage, a slightly masculine scent that is merely one tenth of a perfume trunk, quickly became my favorite. Maybe this was an olfactory Rorschach test: Which one smells like a hot surfer—and which one is just a butterfly? You won’t know until you own them all. Abundance didn’t make me feel vain—it made me feel like a kid sneaking into her mom’s makeup for the first time. Getting ready in the morning became creative and exciting. Sometimes I wonder, Why would anyone use one eye shadow when six would do? Of course, there’s always the possibility I will leave the house looking like the Joker—but I’ll have my trusty Finger to get me through.

I THOUGHT I WOULD SUCCUMB TO THE TYRANNY OF CHOICE, BUT OH, HOW WRONG I WAS.

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

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’m always in search of The One: you know, a blush so versatile that it’s also a lipstick, an eye shadow, and a wine opener. But as soon as I opened the Tom Ford Lips & Boys lipstick set, my makeup monogamy evaporated. Gluttony was starting to look pretty good all dressed up in a sleek black box filled with 50 lipsticks. Why would you want one pink-y nude when you can have all of the pink-y nudes? Blame the immense product hauls of YouTube beauty bloggers or the normalization of the glam room by the first family of reality TV. The recent influx of extravagant makeup collections was made for hoarders— hoarders with a lot of disposable income. We’re talking about eyeshadow palettes that have as many neutrals as the Swiss department of foreign affairs. Sets of brushes with more angles than the most advanced geometry textbook. And then there’s the perfume: It comes by the actual trunkload. It’s a new level of stratospheric luxury...except it has roots in the past. The people at Louis Vuitton got the idea for their monogrammed perfume case from the hyperrich of the early twentieth century, who in fact did travel with trunks full of perfume. But no one was Instagramming their hauls in 1925, so the only people they could show off for were one another. Now we’re inundated with images of conspicuous consumption: tricked-out vanities; five-, nah, six-figure shopping sprees; and so-called everyday beauty routines that call for 30 products and a course in color theory. It makes owning a palette of 80 eye shadows seem... kind of normal? Which is how I got here: staring at the 29 makeup brushes—which, by the

way, is more than two brushes for every bone on the human face—in Urban Decay’s aptly named Pro Brush Vault. Inside the vault there are 11 eye-shadow brushes, not one but two “diffusing highlighter” brushes, and a small blunt instrument simply called the Finger. (I would only discover its true purpose hours later when I opened the Sephora Collection Geometricolor Palette Blockbuster, which looks like a hat box stuffed with 80 eye shadows and 32 lipsticks. With my Finger, I did a damn good job of blurring the colors into some wickedcool kaleidoscopic eye looks.) On the downside, some of the trunks made me feel bad about my life choices. For example, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I don’t have enough yachts to legally own a box of six perfumes, like the Bulgari Le Gemme Collection. But overall, turns out I’m a natural at consuming/hoarding. I thought I would succumb to the tyranny of choice—too many options makes them all seem meh—but oh, how wrong I was. Elliott, a sparkly purple Tom Ford lipstick, isn’t


PHENOMENON

BEST CASE SCENARIOS

Got a couple grand to burn? We have some ideas. TOM FORD LIPS & BOYS 50-PIECE SET You get: 50 lipsticks in a black lacquered box It costs: $1,950 You’ll keep coming back to: Snowdon, an unexpectedly cool metallic rose gold

RALPH LAUREN CALFSKIN TRAVELER’S TRUNK You get: Ten bottles of eau de parfum inside a handcrafted trunk It costs: $3,900 for the trunk; $240 for each fragrance You’ll keep coming back to: Sage, a mix of herb and fig that’s warm and sexy and a little masculine LOUIS VUITTON FRAGRANCE CASE You get: A very swish monogrammed mini trunk that can hold three fragrances It costs: $5,450 for the case, plus $240 for each Louis Vuitton Les Parfums scent You’ll keep coming back to: Dans la Peau, a sweetly soft mix of flowers and leather

URBAN DECAY PRO BRUSH VAULT You get: 29 brushes, each mercifully labeled with its job description It costs: $375 You’ll keep coming back to: The Large Tapered Foundation Brush, a blending magician

LAURA MERCIER THE ICONICS You get: 12 of Mercier’s personal favorites (some full size, some mini), each nestled in its own little drawer It costs: $170 You’ll keep coming back to: Foundation Primer Radiance—even if you skip foundation, it makes your skin look awesomely dewy.

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)

SEPHORA COLLECTION GEOMETRICOLOR PALETTE BLOCKBUSTER You get: 80 eye shadows, 32 lipsticks, 8 blushes, and—wait, there’s more—10 eyeliners It costs: $49.50 You’ll keep coming back to: The grayish-greenishbluish eye shadow that changes color with the light


PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

What A Ride

January—with all its no-fun resolutions—will be here soon enough. For now, we’re taking a cue from our cover star: Be risky, be uninhibited, be daring, and by all means, be yourself.


Lace dress by Valentino. Boots, stylist’s own. These pages: Hair, Rudi Lewis; makeup, Sally Branca; manicure, Megumi Yamamoto. Prop stylist: Bette Adams. Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Off and


It can be hard to root for someone who is a fashion-world muse and a social media savant. It can be hard, that is, until you meet the formidable Gigi Hadid. BY JUDITH NEWMAN

Running PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER


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igi Hadid is jazzed bout Zulu. He’ll be arriving any minute. Someone decided the former equestrian/ current “It” girl would enjoy a photo shoot that involved posing with her spirit animal, a black Lusitano horse, and as she gets styled, she gets a little wistful about her childhood. “We were living in Aspen, and my first pony, Rocky Daddy, was a rescue from a farmer next door,” she says, shouting over the roar of the blowdryer. “The farmer was kind of old and couldn’t take care of him, so my mom asked if we could, and that’s the pony I started riding.” Hadid got her first pony when she was two. “Every morning, I’d feed him, and Mom would let me dress myself, so I’d put my rain boots on backward, which I thought was really funny.” She pauses for a moment. “I never really had a great sense of style. I was wearing what I wanted to wear. I don’t really know what my style is.” Could have fooled us. Then again, maybe you don’t need to know what your style is when every single thing you put on your body looks spectacular. Imagine that for a moment. Versace? Check. Hilfiger? Well, sure; she collaborated with Tommy Hilfiger to design his new nautical-themed line, Tommy x Gigi. Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Chanel, Marc Jacobs: At 21, Hadid has done their shows and/or been featured in their campaigns. She’s the face of Maybelline New York, regularly smoldering in ads for crimson lipsticks and fluttery mascaras. If she decided it would be cool to dress like a rodeo clown, half of America—or at least those under 30—would be suiting up in puffy pants, Stetsons, and red noses. Hadid is five foot ten and in person has the build of a hot praying mantis. But in the fun house mirror of high fashion, she has been deemed “curvy,” and with her full cheeks and honey-colored skin, the happy result of her Dutch/Palestinian heritage, she hearkens back to the shapelier supermodels of the ’90s—the Naomis

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and Cindys and Christys. Heroin chic, no. Multivitamin chic, maybe. Not that she looks blandly wholesome; if anything, those arched eyebrows make her look like she’s got a raunchy secret that amuses her. As my 14-year-old son put it, “She looks like a beautiful villainess.” The otherworldly face and body aside, Hadid has a public persona that is somehow deeply relatable. One young fan said to me, “She doesn’t have a lot of kiss-ass in her vibe—she reads as someone with zero fucks to give.” At the same time, she can seem almost vulnerable. Responding to online trolls who have said that her fame is due to her wealthy family and her social media presence more than innate model perfection, she will admit to being a little wounded—but she laughs about it, too. When her walk was roundly criticized for being too clomp-y, she did a video about “perfecting” it by running on a treadmill in a full designer outfit and heels. And after her bottom was declared too wide (how?), she appeared in a video in which she turned to the camera and deadpanned, “Today’s workout has been seven minutes. I’ve really been pushing myself this week.”

one of the best at monetizing social media in this way.” Hadid herself acknowledges that she is something of a savant of social media, able to keep her fans checking endlessly for updates on her work, her posse (including Taylor Swift and Jenner), and her love life—she’s currently dating Zayn Malik. Asked how it is to have the former One Direction singer crooning to her with his shirt off (as he frequently appears on Instagram): “Yeah, that’s not hard to look at. I’ll never complain about that.” Hadid continues, “I wish I had a strategy to [social media]. I could write a book and make millions. But I never feel like I’m working when I’m doing social media. I guess I succeeded at it because it came naturally.” Coming naturally seems to be Hadid’s go-to phrase; one of her gifts is that she never looks as if she’s trying too hard. Jelena Noura “Gigi” Hadid’s history is known to anyone under 30 with an

“I never really had a great sense of style. I was wearing what I wanted to wear.” This sense of humor about herself, and about fashion, has connected deeply with millennials—those very millennials that advertisers crave. First, and perhaps most important to that bond, is her social media presence: 3 million followers on Twitter, 24 million on Instagram, and God knows how many on her favorite platform, Snapchat. (I can’t really tell you the number because I’m too decrepit to figure out how to use it.) “There are only a handful of girls who have this kind of power—Gigi and Bella [Hadid’s sister] and Kendall [Jenner] and Cara [Delevingne]— and every brand wants them,” says Lindsay May, a cofounder of Mayflower Entertainment, which pairs companies with the celebrities who best telegraph the brand’s message. Now, when deciding whether to hire an endorser, companies ask for the person’s social media stats instead of the gross on her movies. “Gigi was

Instagram account. She was born to Mohamed Hadid, a California real estate developer, and Yolanda Hadid, a former model and Real Housewives of Beverly Hills cast member who recently split from music producer David Foster. Hadid has the kind of fraught family history that has probably bought lovely houses for several therapists: Her biological father is engaged to be married for the third time; her ex-stepdad, David Foster, has been married four times and at one point was married to Linda Thompson, the mother of Brody Jenner and Brandon Jenner, her children by Bruce Jenner (now Caitlyn). So Hadid’s stepfather was also the stepfather of her best friend Kendall’s half brothers. You with me so far? Actually, never


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Silk dress from Southpaw Vintage. Vintage hat from Early Halloween. Makeup colors: Lasting Drama Waterproof Gel Pencil in Lustrous Sapphire, Color Jolt Intense Lip Paint in Stripped Down, and Dream Velvet Foundation in Ivory by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.


Hadid has always been comfortable on a horse. “My first pony, Rocky Daddy, was a rescue from a farmer next door.”


Circa 2002

2013

In a Guess ad campaign “All I really remember from that day was that it was the stylist’s birthday, and she had a chocolate cake.”

With mom Yolanda Hadid at a charity event in Phoenix “This was at Muhammad Ali’s [Celebrity] Fight Night. It was right after my mom found out she had Lyme disease. It was soon after this that she got sick.”

2014

2014

With Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner at a CR Fashion Book party in Paris “I loved that dress. It was [Emilio] Pucci, when Peter Dundas was still there.”

With Lily Aldridge at the Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival in Miami “We did this models versus chefs volleyball tournament for charity. Lily is an amazing soccer player. I was playing, you know, like a volleyball player, and then whenever she got it, she kicked it like a soccer player. That was the first time Lily and I hung out. We became friends after that weekend.”

2014 At a horse-racing event in Melbourne “I’m not too into feathers and ruffles and stuff, so I went for a metal shooting-star headpiece.” At the Allure office in New York City “I went to a casting, and we walked past the fashion closet. The [creative] director at the time, Paul Cavaco, was doing people up like Game of Thrones. And he was like, ‘Want to be part of our Game of Thrones cast?’ No one knew who I was.”

2015 With siblings Anwar and Bella Hadid “This is a selfie. I think that day I made tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwiches.”

2015 With Heidi Klum at her Halloween party in New York City “I love Halloween. And Heidi Klum as Jessica Rabbit—full prosthetics. It was amazing. I was Sandy from Grease. And yes, I sing, but you don’t want to hear me sing.”

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2015

At the Tommy Hilfiger spring 2016 show in New York City “This was the finale. They were playing Bob Marley—I loved it.”

2014


2014 At the New York Stock Exchange in New York City “This is the first year I shot the Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition. And a couple of the girls rang the bell for the end of the day at the New York Stock Exchange. It was really cool to be on the floor.”

2015

Lace dress by Gucci. Briefs, custom-made for Hadid by stylist. Details, see Shopping Guide.

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

At a Victoria’s Secret show in New York City “This was my first Victoria’s Secret show. My first year trying out, I didn’t get it. I think they said I looked too young…I had a baby face.”

2015 At the American Music Awards in Los Angeles “I wore a fake bob. And the dress does not involve glue; it involves very talented designers. Tight in the right places.”

mind. Just think of it this way: When you consider the looks of everyone involved here, they would have the most beautiful family reunion ever. Hadid started modeling as a child, and while she didn’t exactly know fashion stardom would be in her future, she knew one thing for sure: She was good at it. “I don’t know why, but I just knew,” she says. “I knew I wanted to make pictures better.” Her mother was a very good photographer, and a camera was rarely out of reach. Partially because of her mother, Hadid says, “I was obsessed with photographers and where models were supposed to fit in. Obviously, I’m not taking iconic pictures as a six-year-old, but I studied models as part of an image, not just as a model, if that makes sense.” She was transfixed not so much by the people in various ads but by the mood their presence created. “I first got inspiration for energy in a photo looking at those Tommy Hilfiger

family-picture ads, where there were so many people and it looked like so much fun,” she says. “I guess I saw what a lot of people don’t see in models, which is that it’s hard work, and you’re not just another object in the photo.” Hadid has worked very hard for her fame; let’s face it—you don’t get millions of Instagram fans by not giving a shit. “I don’t know if I got it from riding or school or volleyball or my mom or all of them. But I’ve always been the person to self-alarm at 4 A.M. to finish a school project.” Fame is still new, and a bit strange, and there are one or two things she misses. Like it would be nice to be an observer sometimes and not just the observed. When she first moved to New York in 2013, no one knew her, and she could walk freely in the city. (Between modeling gigs, she studied criminal psychology at the New School: “Instead of watching the Disney Channel, I was watching Forensic Files.”)


N

ow she tries to walk around freely, and it doesn’t always work out so well. There are paparazzi often parked in front of her NoHo building. But she refuses to have round-the-clock security: “I have security at the right times, but I also like to walk down the street by myself. I’m a Taurus; I’m hardheaded.” She also could do without the assumptions that because she is a privileged girl from a family that’s not exactly averse to the spotlight, she is not a “real” model, that she wouldn’t have made it in this business were it not for family connections. With all the gushing fandom comes a level of vitriol, over everything from purportedly fake tans to fake relationships, that strips a person of his or her humanity. “I always want to prove myself and to let people know I’m a good person,” she says. “A lot of people don’t realize they’re typing this stuff, and that’s a lot of negative energy— regardless of whether we see it or not. People just don’t realize the power of their judgment.”

makeup people. She’s the opposite: sweet and friendly and enthusiastic— such an engaging person, which a top model should be.” Perhaps a large part of this sweetness stems from her closeness to her family—fellow models Bella, 20, her brother, Anwar, 17, and particularly her mother, Yolanda. Gigi is a mama’s girl. She gets very emotional when she talks about her mother’s battle with Lyme disease, which Yolanda will be documenting in an upcoming book. “My mom has neurological Lyme disease, which means it’s spirochetes that are from bacteria that the tick has. The spirochetes are like little screws and kind of embed themselves in the brain tissue,” she explains. When the disease affects the nerves in the brain, it’s harder to detect because “it’s not in the bloodstream anymore. You have to do a special test for it.” Having a nebulous disease with symptoms that come and go is bad; being accused of faking that disease for attention, as Yolanda has been on Real Housewives, is much worse. (Those accusations are reportedly the reason she quit the show this year.) Hadid remembers that when she was in high school, her mother sometimes couldn’t get out of bed or even watch TV. “And she couldn’t come to my volleyball games—the light and sound really got to her.” Hadid’s voice trails off and her eyes fill up, but she

If I were her and someone asked me that question, I’d punch them in the face. So let’s settle the question right now. Mary Clarke, a cofounder of Mother Model Management, is a leading modeling scout and agent who launched the careers of Ashton Kutcher, Karlie Kloss, and others. What if she’d seen Hadid at a checkout counter? Would she have approached her? “Of course,” says Clarke, who recalls seeing Hadid backstage the first season she was on a runway. “Some of the other girls were surrounded by an entourage and seemed annoyed by the hair and

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quickly shakes it off. There were other times, Hadid adds, when her mother accompanied her to events when she really wasn’t up to it. “She tried to be a power mom.” Fortunately, Hadid herself has not contracted Lyme disease, though both Anwar and Bella contracted it and were treated when it was in its early stages. A big part of Hadid’s appeal is that she is relatable—despite looking the way she does and having the resources that she has. She’s bored senseless by the treadmill and weights, so she has taken up boxing—a skill that came in handy this past September, when, as she was emerging from a fashion show in Milan, a “prankster” grabbed

her from behind, immobilizing her arms and lifting her off the ground. She managed to elbow him and get free. Twitter’s first reaction was to suggest she was being bratty, though the popular opinion shifted quickly. “Honestly, I felt I was in danger,” she told Lena Dunham in her newsletter, Lenny, “and I had every right to react the way I did. If anything, I want girls to see the video and know that they have the right to fight back, too, if put in a similar situation.” Hadid’s beauty regimen consists of almost nothing because, not to belabor the obvious, but 1) she is fussed over by professionals daily, and 2) just look at her. On her days off, she’ll wear no makeup or maybe nude lipstick. And she uses St. Ives Apricot scrub, which has been around since I was her age, meaning a very, very long time. “It’s been around because it’s the best,” she says sweetly. And the future? I don’t even ask her about marriage and children, because she’s 21 and going out with Zayn Malik, and if I were her and someone asked me that question, I’d punch them in the face. In her free time, of which there is precious little, she watches TV and cooks with Malik (last night: meat pie and apple crumble). She makes art—spray paintings and watercolors mostly, of a variety of subjects, though as a true California girl, her high-school portfolio consisted of different cars in various mediums. She likes to skydive, she thinks, sort of, based on doing it once and feeling as if she were going to die. (Fun!) And yes, she’d like to act. But she has turned down a passel of “dumb-model roles,” as she puts it, and knows she’s not yet ready to get the roles she wants. She’s studying. “I think I’ll only do one or two movies in my life, so I want them to be good,” she says. Finally, it’s time to get busy. Zulu has arrived. He’s jet black—he goes with everything—and his mane and tail have been braided so the curls match Hadid’s. She beams. She mounts him and guides him easily. At one point, lying naked on his glossy bare back, Hadid looks as comfortable and happy as if she were lying in her own bed. When the day is done, Zulu nuzzles Hadid on the cheek. She smooches him right back. Lucky horse. Lucky girl.


Cotton dress from Southpaw Vintage. Earrings by Petite Grand. Makeup colors: The Blushed Nudes Eyeshadow palette, Brow Precise Fiber Volumizer in Soft Brown, and Color Sensational lipstick in Clay Crush by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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—LEXI NOVAK

INEZ & VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE

MAKE YOUR BODY GLOW “Purrrr, dry, bumpy skin,” said nobody ever. It’s been many moons since pool-swan season. Just ask your legs. And yet so much of holiday fashion is plunging, off the shoulder, or filter-dependent. Fear not. We have makeup artist Mary Phillips. She’s better than a filter. Get lit. “Turn up all the lights, take the shades off the lamps,” says Phillips. When you’re rubbing on self-tanner, “do whatever you can to get bright lighting.” Sexy? Not really. But you can only fix streaks if you can see them. Add a little sumpin’ sumpin’. After the self-tanner dries, it’s time for the body oil. Oh yes, we want to be tan and glow-y. “Tom Ford Soleil Blanc Shimmering Body Oil is ahhhhhmazing,” says Phillips. But what if: silk. You don’t want an oil staining your schmancy dress. Grab a powder highlighter (try Urban Decay Naked Illuminated) and a massive powder brush—”it’s the best for patting highlighter on your shoulders, clavicles, arms, and shins,” says Phillips. “Your body will look bangin’.”


what Oh,

a Night!

Late December, downing whiskey three! What a very special time for me— as I (totally, definitely) remember…hiccup… ’Tis the season for...stamina. Because December is one nonstop party. Or at least one nonstop month of stressing about the nonstop party. So as our holiday gift to you, we’ve compiled every way to make the season all fun and no stress: the shoes to wear, the wine to serve, even a script to use to get someone under the mistletoe. Mwah! And merry-merry.

Three (Superhot) Holiday Makeup Looks

Yes, of course the wise men delivered full-strip lashes alongside frankincense and myrrh. That’s history. But sometimes holiday traditions get dated. What if, instead of ye olde red lip, you tried…

Bedazzling your face. It’s no vajazzling (save that for Easter), but a rhinestone and some eyelash glue will give you a cool bling-y beauty mark on the high point of your cheekbone, says makeup artist Robin Black. If one gem looks lonely, try three in an

upticked line at the outer corner of each eye for a sparkly wing. Dramatic lashes. You’ll need three sizes of lash clusters: short ones above the iris, medium just out from there, and the longest at the outer corners, says Black, who likes Velour Lashes. Or live large and put a full strip on the bottom lashes. (Numéro 8 by Nars is wicked sexy.)

Smoke and glitter. Press black sparkly cream shadow onto the center of your lid for smoky eyes with holiday edge (we like Chanel Illusion d’Ombre in Rouge Noir) or swipe across the lash line a few times with glittery liner (like Urban Decay Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner in Midnight Cowboy). —L. N.


Happy Feet The shoes that last all night, just an evening, or only a few gloriously sexy minutes. —AMBER ANGELLE

Went Home With a Hot Stranger, Didja? It is all fun (and more fun) until the next morning when you see...

DRESSY, EMBELLISHED FLATS Good for: Anywhere— preferably showing a lot of leg. Good till: How long can you wear slippers? That long.

PLATFORMS Good for: Being glam dinnerparty hostess at your own pad. Good till: You’re up on your coffee table with the latenight stragglers (and Beyoncé).

Beard burn: Get some Marc Jacobs Beauty Cover(t) Stick Color Corrector in Cover(t) Affairs—it hides everything, “including regret,” jokes Black. Hickeys, bite marks, and whatever else falls into this category: A heavy-duty concealer, like Laura Mercier Secret Concealer, will cover it seamlessly and easily. Puffiness: Black leans on Clarins Shaping Facial Lift Total V Contouring Serum. “It tightens up the jawline and

makes you look better, especially if you’re a late-night person,” she says. Undereye circles: Black advises dabbing on a Hansderma SkinCool Ice Roller out of the freezer, then tapping on Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask. Janky hack: A cold Diet Coke works pretty well, too. Rope burns: If you’re advanced enough to be carrying around impromptu-sex rope, you really don’t need us. —SARAH BALL

DEAR HARVEY LEVIN OVER THERE, We see you scanning the room, pretending to text. But c’mon. No one pans the room 180 degrees while shooting off some casual “u up?”s. And we don’t remember signing a general release on the way in. If you’ve gotta keep your public informed, it’s a billion times better to throw out a quick “I have to snap this!” before hitting record. But even then? You get to be the paparazzi once, maybe twice per party. Three times is just rude—you’re here to spend time with all us drunk fools, not your own face with panda eyes. Because really? The party still happened even if you didn’t snap it. In fact— it happened while you did.

h Kiss kiss, The Guests

STILETTOS Good for: Anything paperinvitation fancy that requires taking no more than 18 steps. An hour of standing Good till: or two leggy Instagram selfies— whichever comes first. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)

ow to DJ your night

Let’s say you want the night to start out all classy, everyone Instagramming your throw pillows and rosemary simple syrup— but end up with the whole crew grinding on your coffee table? DJ Hannah Bronfman, the mic is yours. —JESA CALAOR 7 P.M. “Rhythmic music puts everyone in a great mood. I like Latin and African beats from Buena Vista Social Club, Wizkid, Gilberto Santa Rosa, Oscar d’León, and Rigo Tovar.” 8:30 P.M. “Familiar tunes make people feel comfortable. I’d never play traditional Christmas carols, but I like Motown Christmas—have Michael Jackson and Aretha Franklin on deck.” 10 P.M. “Get turned up with rap and R&B. Chance the Rapper, Kanye, Bryson Tiller, and of course some Ariana Grande. I’m loving the new song ‘Woman’ by Diana Gordon.” Midnight: “The classics—Mariah Carey and the Jackson 5, and some girl anthems—the Spice Girls, Gwen Stefani, Britney Spears.”


INEZ & VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE

SWIPE RIGHT IRL Picking someone up in a bar—it’s a lost national pastime, like playing with a hoop and a stick. We consulted the ancient texts to find out how to bring it back. Befriend the bar. Not the bartender, the actual bar—because standing next to someone waiting to order is the easiest way in. Then totally casually strike up a conversation. Wimping out? Chat up the General Friend Circleland and: ice broken. Don’t overthink it. No, really. Put zero thought into this. A recent study on pickup lines declared “hi” the most effective. After a few minutes, or however long it takes to pick up on chemistry, lean in and gently touch the person’s elbow. Zing! Moment-of-truth time. You’ve already touched an elbow, for God’s sake. Surely you can propose drinks, a movie, a quality hoop-and-stick game—whatever. Be direct and specific. It’s intimidating but less frustrating than some ambiguously flirty text chain that dies out. And it’s more successful: Studies consistently find that straight-up asking someone out works better than anything else.


INEZ & VINOODH/TRUNK ARCHIVE

HOW TO HOST A FORMAL It’s the holidays. If you can’t tinseland-garland the shit out of your house and stuff your mouth with caviar now, when can you? Rachelle Hruska MacPherson, the founder of the textile collection Lingua Franca, explains how fancy doesn’t mean Professor Plum, in the library, with the [falls asleep]. Mailed invitations can seem pretentious—because they are. Instead, “write over a photo, take a picture of it, and email it.” Tuxes and chiffon for six people who know each other is weird. Make your formal blowout 20-plus. Four beautiful words: potato chips and caviar. Don’t be precious. Your muse is the Mad Hatter. A bathtub filled with roses, apples, and wine is a great start. —L. N.


Your Cheese Tray Called. It Hates You.

Matthew Rubiner, the (highly opinionated) owner of Rubiner’s Cheesemongers & Grocers in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, is here to help.

Forget what you think you know. Cheese plates of the past involved 1) a waxy Brie, 2) a rubbery Havarti, and 3) something radioactively orange, like a cheddar or a Colby or a Co-Jack, which is a combination of Colby and Jack, and which everyone spoke of without a hint of irony, and which was blended together in a semi-industrial process, which I assume involved more than chopping it up into little pieces and smashing it with your hand—but that’s what it looked like. 1. Relax about the plate. Or whatever you call it. I say “cheese board.” (Sometimes I use the word “platter,” but I hate myself just a little every time I do.) A wooden—stone if you’re pretentious—cutting board is great. 2. Pick artisanal cheeses that have traceability. It’s simple: Farm and small-dairy cheeses taste better than factory ones.

g

3. Your board/plate/platter should have a skyline. It needs contrasting and complementary shapes, textures, and flavors. A cow, a sheep—hell, why not—throw in a goat. 4. There need be no progression from mild to strong—unless your friends are incredibly geeky. 5. Many may counsel you to cut cheese into little pieces. Obviously, these people are not your friends. 6. I’m a baguette/country loaf guy. I typically cut it up in some way so guests don’t have to sweat it out. If you go with crackers, they shouldn’t have too much flavor—just olive oil, sea salt, you understand. But they shouldn’t be edible cardboard either. 7. Serving cheese right out of the refrigerator is a rookie move. Make the plate in advance, drape a cloth over it, and give it at least an hour on the counter—every cheese in the world tastes better at room temperature. 8. Three to five cheeses is the sweet spot. Figure two ounces total per person.

et your flutes ready By legendary sommelier David Lynch

You want to host a wine tasting? Great. Just please never call it that. If someone invited me to her house and wanted to have a wine seminar at a holiday party, I’d advise strongly against it. People don’t want to go to class—they want to enjoy themselves. Instead, put together a tasting that’s self-guided and actually fun. Go for sparkling wines from around the world—then you can let people compare and contrast within a fairly narrow category. They’ll get the fizzy, easygoing farmer-style wines as well as the fancy champagne. The only house rule: Everyone gets one glass. Break out your cool wine charms, get a grease pencil and write names on the feet of the glasses, or try any of the other ways magazines have told us to keep track of our glasses. What can I say? It’s a serious societal issue that needs to be addressed. Last thing: If you’re hosting 20 people, plan on at least three bottles of each wine. You do want people to have fun, right? I’ll make it easy for you: Champagne (France): Pol Roger, Champagne Brut NV • French non-Champagne (Loire Valley): Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire Brut NV • Cava (Spain): Raventós i Blanc Cava Conca del Riu Anoia Brut de la Finca 2012 • American sparkling: Schramsberg Vineyards North Coast Brut Blanc de Blancs 2013 • Franciacorta (Italy): Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut NV • Prosecco (Italy): Sorelle Bronca, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry NV (Italy) • A SodaStream Fizzi. Bubbles come in all forms, after all.

Here’s what you’re buying: Instead of waxy Brie, try a Robiola or Moses Sleeper from Jasper Hill Creamery in Vermont. Instead of a weird orange, try a farmstead English cheddar, like Keen’s Cheddar, or an American clothbound cheddar, like Cabot Creamery Clothbound Cheddar. Instead of Havarti, try Asiago Fresco or Consider Bardwell Farm Pawlet. Instead of bleu, get a cheese that has an actual name: Stilton (from England), Gorgonzola (from Italy), Roquefort (from France), or American Bayley Hazen Blue or Great Hill Blue. Instead of Muenster, get an authentic monastic cheese, like Chimay or Tamié. Timberdoodle (which is a real name) from Woodcock Farm and Ameribella from Jacobs and Brichford are American versions made in a similar style.

A HOLIDAY BRUNCH Wintry food, rustic decor, and “a break from the nighttime thing—that’s your goal here,” says Deborah Williamson, a co-owner of James restaurant in Brooklyn. Hit the farmers’ market. Roasted carrots and parsnips, sweet-potato soup, celery-root gratin, herb frittatas, and a cranberry cobbler—food doesn’t get any cozier. Throw on a burlap sack. Not on you—on your winter-brunch table, which should be wearing some rustic, slubby linen or burlap. Williamson lays freshly cut spruce, pine, or juniper branches down the middle. Got vintage china? Now’s the time. Drink up. The nice thing about wintry nonbooze, like spiced apple cider or pear shrub, is you can stick a bottle of bourbon or rum next to it, making daytime drinking purely opt-in.

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MO TH R ESEO AM F E

M T O H R E E O S A F M E Imagine a world in which cheeks are filled, lips are plumped, and lines are frozen— in exactly the same way. Now imagine that you live there.

By Elizabeth Siegel

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LUCIA GIACANI/TRUNK ARCHIVE


Y

ou’re looking very (a+b)/a = a/b = 1.618... =  today. That’s a compliment...and an actual, if ancient, equation for calculating beauty—in art, in architecture, in human faces. And you can thank the Greek mathematician Euclid for the formula, often called the Golden Ratio. Recently, Amber Heard and Kim Kardashian were deemed the most beautiful—sorry, the most —women in the world by a London-based plastic surgeon who funneled the size of their lips, cheeks, and eyebrows into that exact equation. Of course, it’s odd when beauty becomes that reductive. It’s unsettling. It’s disconcerting. And it’s for sale. Provided you don’t have a fear of needles, it’s never been more possible—or popular—to inject your way to Euclid’s ideal proportions. Arched eyebrows, pronounced cheekbones, Instagrammable lips... “Patients ask me for more symmetrical features all the time,” says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston, who points out that a little asymmetry usually looks more natural. “The problem is you can’t take

“This manipulation is messing with our minds. You walk into a room and you’re not sure how old anyone is anymore—no one necessarily looks younger, but everyone looks the same.” Dermatologists and plastic surgeons across the country are seeing it happen—yes, in many cases, they’re also making it happen—and everyone we spoke with agreed: It’s a little freaky. Now, if you’ll forgive an editorial aside: It’s our idiosyncrasies that make us unique, our imperfections that make us interesting. Our flaws, our stumbles, our smile lines, our split ends—these are part of who we are, and to some extent, part of the human condition. And what’s recently been happening between patients and needles is an affront to so-called imperfections everywhere. It’s Lauren Hutton without the gap in her teeth. It’s Barbra Streisand without a bump on her nose. It’s Cindy Crawford without the mole above her lip. It’s what Doris Day, a clinical associate professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center in New York City, ominously calls “the new sameness.” Don’t believe it? Last year alone, we were injected more than 6.6 million times, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Let’s try that again. 6.6 MILLION TIMES. That’s a nearly 40 percent increase from just five years ago. “The more you see this look—which is all over social media—the more accepted it becomes and the more people are OK with it,” says Jessica Wu, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Southern California’s Keck School of Medicine in Los Angeles. That is to say, the baseline has shifted. What looked uncomfortably taut and full a few years ago barely merits a second glance today. And it begs the question: What level of intervention will be unremarkable by 2020? When enough people do something, it’s amazingly easy to let it go unchallenged. Lemmings on a precipice. Technically, “injectables are supposed to make you look younger,” says Wechsler. And they certainly can. They smooth lines. They restore contours that flatten with age. They lift droopy brows and slackening jawlines. But when injectables are doing every one of those things, on one face, to the nth degree? Well, think of these innovations like red wine—in small doses they can be a very good thing, but if you overindulge, the binge can lead to bad decisions and potentially a puffy, not-quite-right-looking face.

LA M S OR T Y E EA TH R AN AL 6.6ON M E, W IL E LI W ON E TI RE M IN ES JE . CT

L MA O ST R E YE TH AR A N AL 6. ON 6 M E, IL WE L I W O N E T RE I M I E NJ S . EC

T E D

‘textbook pretty’ features and put them on everyone’s face.” Meaning the problem is that you can. And we are. In other words, welcome to Stepford, people. There they are on Bravo, the plumped lips. And on Instagram, the rounded cheeks. And at your local Starbucks, the frozen foreheads. “It’s manipulating your own features and creating this weird new look in the process,” says Amy Wechsler, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at SUNY Downstate Medical Center in New York City. Wechsler is also an adjunct assistant clinical professor of psychiatry at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City. And on that front, well:

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ED


DOING SHOTS

DOING SHOTS

Last year, we got enough Botox to freeze the foreheads of the entire population of New Zealand. A look at our (ever-growing) obsession with injectables. —JESA CALAOR

So how exactly did we get here? There’s no one answer, but doctors put a big chunk of the blame on a paint-by-numbers approach to needle work. “When dermatologists are trained to do Botox, they often start with a diagram,” explains Wu. “When I first learned, I had the diagram in front of me, too. It read, ‘Do this amount in this location.’ I did it on myself, and my friend told me I looked a little crazy.” Why? Well, those diagrams are FDA-approved injection sites based on a bell curve. If you’re rusty on probability theory: People who fall on either side of the curve will get too little or, worse, too much and look frozen for the next three months. “And the charts don’t take into account that the left and right sides of a face are often different from one another, so some patients are going to come out looking uneven,” says Day. At med-spas, injectables can be even more like shapewear—one size for all! Sex appeal for none! There, physician assistants, nurses, and doctors who may have only a passing knowledge of dermatology and facial anatomy are far more likely to take diagrams and general guidelines as gospel. So for anyone who is thinking of going under the syringe and doesn’t want to look a little crazy, Wu has some advice: If a dermatologist’s office won’t tell you how many injections they do in a week, that’s your first red flag. “You don’t want to be someone’s 5th patient or their 500th,” says Wu. “You want to be their 5,000th.” And if the filling still goes too far, there is yet another injection that may be able to reverse those injections. An enzyme called hyaluronidase can dissolve hyaluronic acid fillers in a matter of days, says Day. You should also be reassured if your doctor really chats you up. The best injectors try to get you talking— about what, it doesn’t really matter. The point is to see how your face moves, where your asymmetry lies, how your cheeks plump when you smile, and all the other things that make your face uniquely yours. Because as promising as modern medical injections can be, we also have to question whether there is anonymity in uniformity—and whether that’s a good thing. “It’s your expressions and quirks that make you beautiful—I fundamentally accept that God is better at creating faces than I am,” says Hirsch, pausing for a moment. “I’m just here to tweak.” —ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY CARA BIRNBAUM

5$450 3 NUMBER OF REQUESTS dermatologist Jessica Wu receives each week for “Kylie Jenner lips.”

HER STARTING RATE for subtly plumped lips.

NUMBER OF INJECTABLES (Belotero, Juvéderm, Botox) Wu uses for that you-but-better effect.

4,267,038

NUMBER OF BOTULINUM TOXIN (Botox and its ilk) procedures performed in 2015.

35to 50

THE AGE GROUP THAT GETS THE MOST injectables (their favorites: botulinum toxins).

2,148,326

NUMBER OF HYALURONIC ACID INJECTIONS given last year (a 26.6 percent increase from 2014).


GOLDEN CHILD Viscose dress by Sonia Rykiel. Earrings by Marni. Necklace by Stella McCartney. Nose ring, model’s own. Makeup colors: Grandiôse Liner in Matte Noir and Glow Subtil Highlighter in Amber Lights by Lancôme. These pages: Hair, Franco Gobbi; makeup, Frankie Boyd; manicure, Alicia Torello. Model: Catherine McNeil. Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara. Details, see Shopping Guide.

The After Afterparty It’s something that the predawn crowd knows instinctively: When you’re tricked out in glitter, velvet, and lamé, the revelry will come to you. Photographed by Giampaolo Sgura


PSYCHEDELIC FURS Fox-and-mink-fur coat by Fendi. Sequined wool top by Max Mara. Velvet pants by Marc Jacobs. Sunglasses by Carrera. Earrings by Salvatore Ferragamo. Vice Lipstick in Gash by Urban Decay. Details, see Shopping Guide.


VELVET UNDERGROUND Velvet dress by Sophie Theallet. Amethyst earrings by Marni. Bracelet by Sarah Magid. Makeup colors: Pocket Palette eye shadow in French Biscuit and La Palette/ Lip in Nude by L’Oréal Paris. Male model: Jacob Morton. Details, see Shopping Guide.


GOOD, SPIKE Sequined top and pants, leather shoes, earrings, gloves, and belts (worn around neck and waist) by Rodarte. Makeup colors: Luminizing Satin Face Color in RS 302 and Rouge Rouge lipstick in RD 504 by Shiseido. Details, see Shopping Guide.


DEEP TRACKS Embellished silk dress, leather boots, and belt by Tom Ford. Earrings by Salvatore Ferragamo. Necklace by R. J. Graziano. Makeup colors: The Brow Multi-Tasker in Dark Brunette and Magic Smoky Powder Shadow Stick in Burnt Black by EstĂŠe Lauder. Details, see Shopping Guide.


METALLICA Silk polyester dress by Ellery. Patentleather shoes by Blumarine. Suede bag by Saint Laurent. Belt and sunglasses, stylist’s own. Katy Kat Matte lipstick in Crimson Cat by CoverGirl. Details, see Shopping Guide.


PURPLE REIGN Embellished moirĂŠ top by Moschino. Velvet pants by Kenzo. Cotton-blend boots by Maison Margiela. Makeup colors: Powder Blush in Blushbaby and Lipstick in Cosmo by M.A.C. Details, see Shopping Guide.


BOLD SHOULDER Polyester-blend dress by Isabel Marant. Earring by Stella McCartney. Gold bracelet by Céline. Makeup colors: Quadra Eyeshadow in Candeur et Expérience and Rouge Allure Gloss in Super Nude by Chanel. Details, see Shopping Guide.


SIMPLE

SET DESIGNER: FABIEN CAPERAN

PURE

AND


If perfumes are cocktails, the best ones right now are served straight up: Intoxicating celebrations of a single note. Pick your poison. BY LIANA SCHAFFNER PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAMIEN ROPERO


PERFUMERS ARE SOME OF THE WO R L D’ S M O S T S E N T I M E N TA L P E O P L E.

If you ask (and we have), you’ll find that their favorite scents remind them of their mothers. Their proudest creations recall fond childhood memories, typically spent in the south of France (did we mention perfumers are also some of the world’s luckiest people?). Using highly technical methods, they manage to preserve those ephemeral moments and fleeting impressions that most of us eventually lose hold of: the silver glow of a Parisian afternoon, the metallic chill of a lonely coastline, the powdery softness of tangled sheets, the dewy romance of a bridal bouquet. It may sound hyperbolic, but all of this imagery and emotion helps give fragrance its heady appeal and even affects the way we apply it. Think about it. We mist on perfume behind closed doors and dab it on hidden areas (our chest, wrists, neck, knees) as if we’re guarding a secret. And in a way, we are. But the latest trend in fragrance is changing all that, turning scent into an open and startlingly honest affair. Overt, uncluttered, and free of innuendo, these new perfumes have nothing to hide. And the result is pure magic. Our favorite new fragrances emphasize one thing. And it’s not one emotion or one aspiration or one vacation destination—it’s one ingredient. They come with straightforward names: Sage, Rose, Blackpepper. What you see on the label is what you get in the bottle, which may not sound radical but borders on revolutionary for an industry that glories in the abstract and draws on our willing suspension of disbelief (very willing, if names like Alien and Beyond Paradise are any indication). “We wanted to see how pure we could get,” says creative director Marcus Wainwright of his mission in creating Rag & Bone’s first fragrances, an octet that includes Amber, Cypress, and Bergamot. “We started each one from a single note and built around it to get something that’s beautifully made but clean and uncomplicated.” The lack of florid names or narratives doesn’t mean these types of scents are without imagination, but it does require us to approach each one with a fresh and unbiased perspective. “It’s like being handed a piece to a puzzle rather than the complete picture,” says Mark Behnke, the founder of the fragrance blog Colognoisseur. “Single-note scents allow freedom of interpretation, which is a very modern concept. People aren’t looking for a be-all, end-all fragrance. What they want is a scent, or several scents, to heighten their mood and represent an experience of their own.”


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (FRAGRANCES)

T

SINGULAR APPEAL

hat’s not to say perfumers have less freedom with these fragrances. If anything, the formulas test their artistry and involve them in an even more profound way. “When you work around a single note, you must find inspiration in one ingredient and focus all your creativity on it,” says perfumer Carlos Benaim, who cocreated Ralph Lauren’s new line of ten perfumes, each named for one scent—White Tea, Magnolia, Orange Flower, and so on. “Your message has to be very clear and unobstructed.” In addition to a strong message, these scents require perfumers to break out some pretty advanced methods. Unlike multifaceted blends with built-in complexity, these spare constructions achieve depth in ingenious ways. New isolation processes and extraction techniques coax every color and variation out of the primary note so that one accord can produce many different effects. Take, for example, the groundbreaking (and Best of Beauty–winning) Ralph Lauren Collection Lime. To create what Behnke describes as an “effervescent, photo-realistic” portrait of a lime, perfumer Calice Becker used a technique involving a proprietary technology called FreezeFrame. With liquid nitrogen, she deep-froze the fruit to lock in its bright, green, and juicy facets, then placed a glass bulb over it (a method known as headspacing) to capture the scent molecules that emanated from the lime as it thawed. If this sounds like a lot of effort to produce one accord, it is. But perfumers spend just as much time fine-tuning the notes that support the central ingredient. “We extract them in very specific ways so that they bring out the complexities of the primary note,” says Benaim. Several methods, such as molecular distillation and carbon dioxide extraction, go into creating one of these perfumes. And it’s easy to understand why. “If you’re going to present a scent centered on one note, that note had better be pretty astounding,” says Behnke. All of this suggests an inverse formula somewhat new to perfumery: The fewer the ingredients, the greater the skill and expense involved. Also turned on its head is the notion that fragrances built around one note are inherently simple. In fact, these scents are so rounded and nuanced that they appear multidimensional. “It’s like a white, empty room in which you place a vase filled with one kind of flower,” says perfumer Daniela Andrier, who created Prada’s Les Infusions collection. “You experience the beauty, color, and smell of that flower in a very generous way.” To grasp just how dynamic a solitary note can be, consider Lancôme’s new fragrance collection, Maison Lancôme Grand Crus. Three of the line’s scents are different versions of the exact same note: oud. And still, single-note fragrances have a stripped-down quality that’s impossible to ignore. Like Andrier’s example of a stark white room, they’re bright, wide awake, drenched in natural light. No memories, no secrecy: You’ll want to apply them out in the open—right where they belong.

Focus, everyone: Spotlighting the nuances of one note can have sublime results. Les Infusions de Prada Mimosa Mandarin oil enhances mimosa’s airy, delicate quality, and rose absolute adds a full blossom effect.

Malin + Goetz Vetiver Grapefruit peel and white iris give the spiky, leafy quality of vetiver a snapped-stem lightness.

Maison Lancôme Jasmins Marzipane Combining two forms of handpicked jasmine (sambac and grandiflorum), this scent has all the flowers’ creamy, petal-y softness.

Comme des Garçons Blackpepper Single-note scents don’t start out as one thing and develop into another, says Behnke. This smooth and spicy fragrance retains its heat throughout the day.

Rag & Bone Oud Oud sparkles in this brilliant interpretation. Hints of bergamot and guaiac wood temper the moody, pulpy aspect of the note while heightening its clean, resinous quality.

137


SHOPPING GUIDE Table of Contents, page 10: Giuseppe Zanotti Design patent-leather clutch, $695. Giuseppezanottidesign.com. Cover Look, page 24: Cotton dress, $2,200, and silk dress, $3,000, from Southpaw Vintage. By appointment at Southpaw Vintage, N.Y.C. 212-244-2768. Page 28: Valentino lace dress, $9,900. Valentino, N.Y.C. 212-355-5811. Talking Beauty With Yasmin Sewell, page 34: Proenza Schouler knit top, $1,090, and skirt, $1,250. Proenza Schouler, N.Y.C. 212-420-7300. Evening Standard, page 40: Cédric Charlier Lurex sweater, $790. Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Maiyet earrings, $595. Maiyet.com. Beauty School, page 44: Maison Margiela cotton-blend dress, $3,645, and silk dress, $1,420. Maison Margiela stores. Mateo New York gold earrings, $750. Swoonery.com. Page 46: Roger Vivier embellished satin bag, $2,550. Roger Vivier, N.Y.C. 212-861-5371. Elements of Style, page 66: Boss viscose silk dress, $1,595. Hugoboss.com. Gianvito Rossi suede shoes, $675. Gianvito Rossi, N.Y.C. 646-869-0201. Page 69: Joseph cotton linen skirt, $615. Joseph-fashion .com. Jimmy Choo velvet shoes, $795. Jimmychoo.com. Ann Taylor viscose-blend pants, $98. Ann Taylor, N.Y.C. 212-922-3621. Jimmy Choo velvet shoes, $925. Jimmychoo.com. Off and Running, page 104: Valentino lace dress, $9,900. Valentino, N.Y.C. 212-355-5811. Page 107: Silk dress from Southpaw Vintage, $3,000. By appointment at Southpaw Vintage, N.Y.C. 212-244-2768. Page 111: Gucci lace dress, $14,000. Select Gucci stores. Page 113: Cotton dress from Southpaw Vintage, $2,200. By appointment at Southpaw Vintage, N.Y.C. 212-244-2768. Petite Grand earrings, $139. Petitegrand .com. Oh, What a Night!, page 116: René Caovilla Swarovski-crystal-and-satin shoes, $1,925. Renecaovilla.com. Nicholas Kirkwood patent-leather shoes, $850. Nicholaskirkwood.com. Miu Miu satin shoes, $1,350. Select Miu Miu stores. The After Afterparty, page 124: Sonia Rykiel viscose dress, $3,700. Sonia Rykiel, N.Y.C. 212-396-3060. Marni earrings, $620. Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Stella McCartney necklace, $690. Stella mccartney.com. Page 125: Fendi fox-andmink-fur coat, $34,000. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-897-2244. Max Mara sequined wool top, $995. Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Marc Jacobs velvet pants, $495. Marc Jacobs stores. Salvatore Ferragamo earrings, $720. Salvatore Ferragamo stores. Carrera sunglasses, $625. Caserta Eye, N.Y.C. 212-627-3937. Page 126: Sophie Theallet velvet dress, $5,820. Sophietheallet.com. Marni amethyst earrings, $1,250. Marni stores. Sarah Magid bracelet, $248. Sarahmagid .com. Dior Homme wool suit, $3,500. Dior Homme stores. Burberry jersey pants, $450. Us.burberry.com. Carrera sunglasses, $595. Caserta Eye, N.Y.C. 212-627-3937. Page 127: Rodarte sequined top and pants, leather shoes, earrings, gloves, and belts, prices available upon request. A Toutes Les Filles, Paris. 33-1-45-05-92-40. Page 128: Tom Ford embellished silk dress, price available upon request; leather boots, $2,950; and belt, $1,290. Tom Ford, N.Y.C. 212-359-0300. Salvatore Ferragamo earrings, $260. Salvatore Ferragamo stores. R. J. Graziano necklace, $75. Rjgraziano.com. Page 129: Ellery silk

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ALLURE DECEMBER 2016

polyester dress, $1,673. Elleryland.com. Blumarine patent-leather shoes, $570. Blumarine.com. Saint Laurent suede bag, $2,190. Saint Laurent, N.Y.C. 212-980-2970. Page 130: Moschino embellished moiré top, $2,095. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Kenzo velvet plants, $1,175. Kenzo.com. Maison Margiela cotton-blend boots, $1,280. Maison Margiela stores. Page 131: Isabel Marant polyester-blend dress, $870. Isabel Marant, San Francisco. 415-781-0113. Stella McCartney earring, $630. Mytheresa .com. Céline gold bracelet, $960. Bergdorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Autobiography, page 140: Marc Jacobs Beauty Air Blush Soft Glow Duo in Kink & Kisses, Marc Jacobs Beauty O!Mega Lash Volumizing Mascara in Think Ink, and Glossier Mint Balm Dotcom.

PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS Talking Beauty With Yasmin Sewell, page 36, clockwise from top: Josephine Schiele; Sandra Semburg; Chris Smart; Daniel Zuchnik/Getty Images. Happy Merry, page ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2016 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 26, NO. 12. DECEMBER 2016 ISSUE. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7771) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Charles H. Townsend, Chairman; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037-0656. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037–0656, call 800-6781825, or email subscriptions@allure.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com or call 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email permissions@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037–0656 or call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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AUTOBIOGRAPHY

Kaia Gerber

JON KOPALOFF/FILMMAGIC (GERBER); KELLY SHAMI (STICKERS); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

FILLS IN THE BLANKS.

Gerber is a spokeswoman for Marc Jacobs Beauty. For details on a few of her favorite products (shown here), see Shopping Guide.


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