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September 2016 £4.50

Healthy • Sustainable • Delicious

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 2016

Soul cooking Wholefood recipes to nourish your mind and body

harvest festival | ruby tandoh | wholefood recipes | sustainable fashion

Harvest festival

Seasonal suppers to savour

Inside this issue … It’s easy to be inspired and create great food every month with our superb seasonal recipe ideas. Suitable for vegans Adaptable for vegans

Starters & light bites

49

Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties

Gluten-free

meat-free recipes

25

easy dishes for everyone to enjoy

dairy-free ideas

Meet the Cornish artist with an eco-message

some like it hot

A shared table

Fiesty chillies and succulent sweetcorn are the perfect pairing

A menu for friends inspired by the cuisine of central asia

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

Slow food Indulgent ideas from

divine dessert British-grown apples

Ruby Tandoh The Great British Bake Off

the creative kitchen of chef Georgina Hayden

are ideal for this simple and elegant tart

star shares her favourite comfort food

PLUS: Visit Vienna | Make vegetarian marshmallows | Ethical fashion

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16 G  riddled courgette, blackberry and feta salad 17 Watermelon pizza with fig, feta and raspberry dressing 18 Fig, mozzarella, orange and chilli salad 25 Mexican sweetcorn soup 38 Bombay omelette 56 Miso noodle broth 66 Baked onion bhajis 68 Fennel and apple chaat with caramelised almonds 82 Pea and lettuce soup

Main courses

beachcombing

Photograph: maria brinkop

it’s a wrap!

Suitable for freezing Ready in minutes 80 Aubergine and ricotta pockets 82 Quinoa salad with balsamic roasted veggies 89 Miso aubergine with crispy shallots and tofu almond cream 89 Red lentil hummus with baked sweet potato 90 Pomegranate labneh with baby leeks, lentils and rice 90 Goat’s milk ricotta and squash with couscous and hemp seed pesto

Sweets & treats

23 T  hai corn cakes 26 Sulawesi sweetcorn and tempeh curry 38 Whole roasted miso aubergine 45 Roasted butternut squash and fig with quinoa and goat’s cheese 45 Portobello mushroom burger with sweet slaw and chunky paprika chips 46 Creamy Louisiana corn stew 47 Fennel, feta and tomato tarts 48 Roasted chickpeas on sweet potato with kale and Cheddar 48 Artichoke spaghetti with lemon and chilli dressing 50 Baked peach salsa and halloumi 51 Spelt berry, ratatouille and borlotti bean salad 53 Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties 54 Smoky butternut squash stew with chickpea dumplings 67 Aubergine fesenjan 71 Walnut-stuffed aubergine rolls 72 Buckwheat kasha with caramelised mushrooms 78 Mango salsa and quinoa wrap 79 Mushroom and walnut burger

19 R  aspberry lemon Dutch baby 20 Apple and Calvados tart 21 Apple crumble ice lollies with date caramel 40 British summertime stack 42 Vegetarian marshmallows 54 Honeyed plum and pine nut cake 73 Roasted peaches with marzipan and rose syrup 83 Rice pudding with pear and cinnamon compote 84 Freezer oaty bars

Dips, sauces, sides & more… 25 25 26 53 71 75 75

 orn tortillas C Corn tortilla chips Nasi kuning Sweet sultana chilli sauce Suzma Turkish aubergine jam Brinjal hot sweet pickle

Many of the recipes have suggestions on how to adapt them for vegans, written by our vegan editor Alice Gunn.

Submit a recipe

Do you have a fabulous vegetarian or vegan dish that you want to share with the world? Then do so at www.vegetarianliving.co.uk.

Subscribe today!

Subscribe to the UK’s best vegetarian and vegan magazine, on page 58.

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Subscribe today… And receive a FREE copy of Deliciously Ella. See page 58 for full details.

For foodies, September is a magical time when the late summer glut and the arrival of the first autumn produce combines to offer an unrivalled variety of fresh ingredients. To fuel your creativity in the kitchen at this time of abundance, in this issue we celebrate some of the finest produce of the transition period, from Rachel Demuth’s spicy dishes using chillies and corn on the cob (page 22) to Catherine Frawley’s harvest festival-inspired suppers (page 44). This month, we’ve been inspired by Georgina Hayden’s story and recipes (page 36), as she reveals how after suffering personal loss the kitchen became her sanctuary, and cooking a vital part of the healing process. Eco artist and vegetarian B&B proprietor Katrina Slack offers a different kind of inspiration on page 60, creating stunning art works and sculpture from the detritus she finds on Cornish beaches. Depending on your time and situation, each day of the week may demand a different type of meal to be prepared, so this issue is also packed with plenty of ideas, from nutritious fast food the kids can eat with their fingers (page 78) or nourishing but simple bowl food for one (page 88), to Meera Sodhal’s fresh, contemporary Indian menu (page 66) or adventurous yet achievable recipes from Uzbekistan (page 70), for when you have more time to linger in the kitchen. Whatever you’re in the mood to cook, we know you’ll find something to whet your appetite in this issue.

Georgina Hayden

‘The process of making a meal can be as beneficial as eating a load of pumpkin seeds. It can make you feel grounded and calm’

54

Ruby Tandoh

‘When the food you eat is made with care, you thrive. And returning the favour, making treats to feed your friends and family, will nourish you in turn’

© David Loftus

COVER RECIPE: Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties by Cath Muscat From Wholefood from the Ground Up by Jude Blereau (Murdoch Books)

Lindsey Harrad, Editor

36

© Charlotte Bland

© Dan Pearce

Welcome

© Laura Edwards

The UK’s best-selling, award-winning vegetarian magazine

Editor’s pick

66

Meera Sodhal

‘My aim is not to preach or to write only for vegetarians: it is to inspire you to cook a different, fresher, vegetable-led type of Indian food’

Fashion week

Mallow magic

Exotic tastes

Discover why sustainability is the latest trend in the fashion world. Page 30

Oonagh Simms shares the secret of perfectly pillowy vegetarian marshmallows. Page 42

Try something new with an entertaining menu featuring the flavours of Central Asia. Page 70

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In this issue…

win!

a brand new kenwood electric spiralizer page 12

Editor’s pick

09

36 45

42

50

45

20

67

Food matters

50 From the wholefood pantry

15 Season’s eatings

How to cook the wholefood way, with Australian food writer Jude Blereau

82

Enjoy the abundance of September, with spicy chillies, sweet figs, Scottish raspberries and foraged blackberries

60

22 Fields of gold

Bake Off star Ruby Tandoh shares her favourite comfort foods – perfect for the changing seasons

Golden ears of corn feature in this month’s seasonal dishes from chef Rachel Demuth

56 Vegan kitchen

36 Food to nurture

Áine Carlin enjoys the luxury of cooking for one, with a special miso noodle broth

Georgina Hayden reveals how cooking became therapy for her, as she shares feelgood recipes from her new book

66 Fresh and fabulous

22

70

3 ways to buy Never miss an issue of Vegetarian Living l Subscribe: get the equivalent of two FREE issues delivered direct to your door – see page 58 l Buy online at www.selectps.com l Download the digital edition from www.pocketmags.com

42 Kitchen tutorial Learn how to make vegetarian marshmallows – and then create fun fruity flavours

45 Harvest suppers Catherine Frawley cooks up quick and easy everyday meals packed with the bounty of early autumn

54 Follow your cravings

Try Meera Sodhal’s lighter, contemporary approach to Indian cuisine

70 A shared table Impress your guests with a delicious feast of dishes inspired by the flavours of central Asia

74 A bit on the side For Sarah Beattie, a glut of gloriously glossy aubergines make perfect pickles

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Contents

Subscribe today and receive Deliciously Ella for FREE! – see page 58

85 40

56 78 Get hands-on! Fuss-free family food – with no cutlery required!

82 Home cooking with Chava Chava Eichner creates naturally gluten-free dishes with no specialist ingredients

30

Regulars 03 Welcome 07 Shopping list Get ready for Bake Off with new cookware

88 Super bowls

08 New shoots

Simple and delicious single-portion meals

News, competitions, new veggie and vegan products, plus reviews and events

Features

69 Back issues

28 Big eats in the big smoke Alice Whitehead finds out about London’s Urban Food Foodnight

30 Catwalk with a conscience Discover how fashion’s new ethical stance is about more than just sustainable fabrics

60 Lost and found Meet beachcombing artist Katrina Slack and her eco-inspired sculptures

73

Missed an issue? Order your copies here

17

Art helped me find alternative ways of expressing my concern for animals Katrina Slack, Lost and found page 60

84 Little life Join Peter Pan outdoors at the theatre, travel back to wartime Britain and enjoy ‘oat cuisine’

92 Beauty notes Scent-sational products with gorgeous fragrances for you and your home

98 Places to go: Vienna Top veggie places to eat in the Austrian capital www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Organic Dairy Products Organic Organic Dairy Dairy Products Products

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(extra virgin olive oil, liqueurs and more)

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Organic Black Corinthian Currants Organic Organic Black Black Organic Herbal Teas with Greek Saffron Organic Organic Herbal Herbal TeasTeas withwith Greek Greek Saffron Saffron

Corinthian Corinthian Currants Currants

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Organic Legumes Organic Organic Legumes Legumes

Enjoy European Organic Products CAMPAIGN CAMPAIGN FINANCED FINANCED WITHWITH AID FROM AID FROM THE EUROPEAN THE EUROPEAN UNION UNION AND AND GREECE GREECE

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CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE

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Shoppinglist Shaker style

If you’re a keen cook or baker, then this vintage-style flour shaker is a great little kitchen accessory, with an easily removable sieve lid and a shaking handle. £7 from www.tch.net

Elegantly served

When you’ve slaved away in a hot kitchen, present your baked goodies in style on these luxe cake plates. Set of four, £25 from www.marksandspencer.com

Stand and deliver

Measure for measure This pretty set of three ceramic measuring cups is ideal for making American recipes from blogs and cookbooks without trying to do tricky conversions! £14.95 from www.dotcomgiftshop.com

Designed by Emilia Hönö, this copperplated acrylic and stainless steel lily centrepiece proves that cake stands don’t need to be twee. Perfect for the really dedicated cupcake maker. £114 from www.beandliv.com

Full of beans You may not have his baking skills, but you can invest in Paul Hollywood’s own products. We love these durable ceramic baking beans, that come in their own handy tin. £9.99 from www.kitchencraft.co.uk

Make & bake

With a new series of Great British Bake Off set to appear on our screens soon, it’s time to get your baking kit sorted.

Get the gadget

We love this clever mess-free refillable silicone pastry brush, which has two drip-free heads for sugar glazes and egg wash. £8 from www.josephjoseph.com

Vintage vibe

Just beat it

With autumn on the way, this ditsy apple print apron and matching double oven gloves add a fresh feel to your kitchen. Apron £20, double oven gloves £14, from www.cathkidston.com

You can’t beat a classic traditional earthenware mixing bowl for whipping up a batch of batter or dough. £20 from www.houseoffraser.co.uk

Cause a stir Every cook needs a decent set of good quality wooden spoons. These are exclusively made from FSC-certified beech with a fine texture and smooth finish. £6 from National Trust shops www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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newshoots All the latest vegetarian and vegan lifestyle news and products, plus reviews, events and much more...

Organic your September Make small changes for a more ethical lifestyle

The Soil Association is encouraging everyone to make their September more organic by making a few small changes. People all over the UK can get involved in the national Organic September initiative by make simple switches to their everyday shopping to help our planet, plus joining in a range of events across the country. In the heart of London’s East End the Soil Association will be celebrating Organic September in style with a pop-up organic market. On 10 September, 30 of the UK’s hottest organic food and drink producers along with organic beauty and wellbeing brands will give the Roman Road Yard Market an organic makeover. The event will feature street food, live music, vintage buys and workshops, and a fantastic array of tasty organic food. From organic artisan bread to gourmet coffee, fruit and veg to melt-in-your-mouth cheese, visitors can taste the best of organic and discover green from the inside out with organic beauty and yoga workshops throughout the day. A fantastic array of organic brands will take part, including many winners and shortlisted nominees from the prestigious BOOM (Best of Organic Market) Awards announced in May. l Find out more at www.romanroadlondon. com. Follow all the action, find recipes and features at www.soilassociation.org/ organicseptember. Get involved on social media by following @SoilAssociation and @RomanRoadLDN on Twitter and tweeting using #OrganicSeptember and #RoRdYard.

Did you know?

Plant, insect and bird life is 50% more abundant on organic farms and there are 30% more species.

In on-trend colours, this Elo pink and navy clock is subtle and stylish. l £35 from www.oliverbonas.com

Clocking on

Like it or not, we’re ruled by the hours of the day, but you can make time-keeping more fun with a new kitchen clock.

Make the switch to organic l Sign up for an organic veg box. Organic farms support 50 per cent more wildlife than non-organic farms, so you’re not just treating yourself to the best of British produce, you’re also helping to protect bees, birds and butterflies. l Buy organic milk. Organic milk is naturally different – no system of farming produces milk with higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids or a healthier balance of omega-6. l Brew an organic tea or coffee. Organic tea and coffee is grown without the use of artificial pesticides and fertilisers. This not only reduces the farmers’ exposure in the developing world, it also means healthier soils and more habitats for birds and wildlife. l Try organic beauty products. There are currently no legal standards for organic beauty, so some products may be labelled ‘organic’ even if it doesn’t always stand true. Look for the Soil Association symbol to make sure that what you put on your body is as important as what goes in it.

For fans of the minimalist look, try this Loft pure wall clock in elegant eggshell. l £49.50 from www.marksandspencer.com

Make a statement with a vibrant kaleidoscope-inspired design by Glasgow School of Art graduate Eleanor Young. l £35 from www.gsashop.co.uk

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September Five ways to get inspired...

Compendium of herbs Designed and written by Caz Hildebrand, Herbarium is a contemporary evolution of the traditional herbarium, depicting each herb with beautiful illustrations, using simple geometric forms and vibrant colours. This gorgeous guide includes notes on each herb, including its origins, what food to pair it with and helpful growing tips.  l Published on 25 August, Herbarium (Thames & Hudson, £16.95) is available for pre-order now.

Food spa One of the most popular of the smaller UK food festivals, the Royal Leamington Spa Food and Drink Festival (10–11 September) is a fun, familyfriendly weekend that’s also free to enter. Enjoy browsing 150 stands, see what’s cooking at the Live Cookery Theatre, and be entertained with live music from the Royal Pump Room Gardens’ bandstand. l www.leamingtonfoodfestival.co.uk

Secret gardens unlocked A brilliant way to take a peek behind closed doors at some of the UK’s most interesting institutions and buildings, this year’s Heritage Open Days (8–11 September) will have a particular appeal to the green-fingered, with a ‘secret gardens, hidden histories’ theme. From community allotments to private gardens and civic parks, these green spaces will be throwing open their gates to the public, both in honour of Year of the English Garden and also the 300th anniversary of one of our most famous gardeners, Capability Brown. l www.heritageopendays.org.uk

Carry on camping

Enjoy weekend camping trips and cooking on an open fire before the evenings start to get cooler, with these autumnal enamel mug designs – perfect for campfire hot chocolate! l £9 each from www.magpieline.com.

A piece of cake

Need an excuse to invite friends over for a slice of something delicious? We thought not. Join Macmillan Cancer Support’s flagship fundraiser – the World’s Biggest Coffee Morning – on 30 September over coffee and cake to raise money for people affected by cancer. l To get your free Coffee Morning kit, visit www.coffee.macmillan.org.uk. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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newshoots

Very British snacks Founded by a team of keen foodies who all had a wealth of experience in the food industry, the Ten Acre brand emerged from a shared passion for gourmet cuisine and a desire to launch a snack product that would be a little bit special. ‘Our previous experiences have taught us to do what you love!’ reveal Tony Goodman and Jimmy Attias, founders of the Ten Acre brand. ‘We, and all of the team at Ten Acre, are great fanatics of our crisps and popcorn and we hope that comes through in every morsel.’ Starting with a range of crisps, the team thoroughly enjoyed the recipe testing process, and developed a unique ‘story’ behind each flavour – you can find the stories on the Ten Acre website, including ‘The Amazing Adventures of Salt and Vinegar’ and ‘The Story of When the Cheese Met the Onion’. ‘Each flavour is like a good

Meet the maker

story, it told itself to us and unravelled in its own time. We crunched through many iterations until we were satisfied each flavour was right.’ After going on to launch a range of popcorn, also with exciting flavours with distinctive names such as Cousin Maisie’s Fennel & Lemon and Lucia Popperley’s Cappuccino, the brand has succeeded in a crowded snack market by sticking to simple, high quality ingredients and remaining a very British brand ­– with all products made in the UK. ‘We’ve been lucky to receive high praise from everyone that’s tried Ten Acre snacks. We’ve also been recognised by our industry, having received the Great Taste Award for many of our flavours, as well as other awards, most recently the INN’ Awards first prize for food innovation.’ With Ten Acre’s entire production line

not only vegetarian but also gluten-free, MSG-free, Vegan Society approved and halal and kosher certified, these are snacks for everyone to enjoy – and even ‘meaty’ crisp flavours such as ‘How Chicken Soup Saved the Day’ and ‘Pastrami in the Rye’ are suitable for veggies and vegans to enjoy. ‘The business has grown considerably in the last two years and a year ago we launched ourselves in the export markets too, flying the flag for Great British food. But back at HQ, our company Yumsh Snacks is launching a new brand of popcorn later this year, although the details are still under wraps. However, we’re also working on new Ten Acre products that we hope will be launched by the end of the year.’ l Discover the full Ten Acre range at www.tenacrecrisps.co.uk.

Taste test…

Vegan cheeses If you’re thinking about going vegan, cheese can be one of the hardest foods to give up. We put some of the leading dairy-free alternatives to the test.

2 Cheezly

1 Violife

Violife is a coconut-based lactose- and gluten-free cheese, which is very low on cholesterol and contains no preservatives. It comes in easy-peel slices, blocks for pizza and Parmesan-style wedges. The Violife Original slices are ideal for those who prefer a classic flavour. l Prices start at £2.50; for stockists go to www.violifefoods.com.

VBites Cheezly comes in eight different varieties so there’s a cheese for every type of recipe, including White or Red Cheddar, Pepperjack, Blue, Edam, Mozzarella and Hard Italian, plus a soya-free variety. Cheezly is free from lactose, casein and cholesterol, making it suitable for a wide range of special dietary needs. l Prices start at £2.19 for 190g. Available from health food stores, Holland & Barrett, Ocado or at www.vbitesfoods.com.

3 Bute Island

Bute Island Mozzarella Style Slices are ideal for paninis or pizzas with an authentic mild flavour, while the Greek Style alternative to feta has a crumbly texture and slight tang, perfect for salads. l Both £2.30 for 200g from health food shops or www.buteisland.com.

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In our trolley

veg LIVING LOVES

The Veg Living team’s favourite products…

Take note

A taste of Spain If you’d like to recreate memories of your travels when back at home, Brindisa has launched four new sauces inspired by Spanish flavours, including Fritada, pepper and tomato; Romesco, tomato and almond; Salsa Brava, spicy tomato; and Sofrito, tomato and onion. Brindisa’s first range of homemade, hearty and additive-free sauces are ideal for when you need a fast fix for a midweek meal. l £2.95 a jar (£3.45 for Romesco) from www.brindisa.com.

Chick, please!

Try Hippeas, a new organic and vegan-friendly chickpeabased snack that packs a protein and fibre punch too. With less than 92 calories a bag, gluten-free and low in fat, Hippeas are the ideal guilt-free treat – especially as they’ve partnered with Farm Africa to support farmers in east Africa grow themselves out of poverty. l From 99p for a 22g pack from As Nature Intended, Planet Organic, Holland & Barrett, WH Smith and Boots.

Raise the bar

From brownies to mousse, we love cooking with Divine’s brand-new Fairtrade chocolate 200g Baking Bars. Available in creamy milk or intensely dark chocolate, both are perfect for baking and melt easily due to their high cocoa butter content, and are made with the finest quality Fairtrade cocoa beans, produced by the farmers of the Kuapa Kokoo cooperative in Ghana.  l £2.99 a bar from www.divinechocolate.com

Fresh start

If you can’t resist a little crunch with your breakfast, Nature’s Path has launched four new organic granolas that are delicious with milk, yogurt or fruit. From a classic ‘nobbly’ granola in Fruit & Nut and Honey & Almond flavours, to the crumblier textured Pumpkin & Flax Seed and Coconut & Chia Seed varieties, these tasty cereals are all organic, packed with fibre and naturally sweetened and flavoured with spices, honey and vanilla. l £3 per pack from Ocado.

Going crackers

Nairn’s has added tasty Super Seeded Wholegrain Crackers to its gluten-free range. Packed full of a nutritious combination of flax seeds, millet and chia seeds, Nairn’s new crackers are the perfect partner for many tasty toppings, from cheese to hummus, or simply enjoy on their own. l £1.75 from Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Asda.

It’s nearly back-to-school time, and there’s nothing nicer than buying a crisp new journal to jot down your plans, projects or recipe ideas.

With a touch of the tropical, Paperchase’s vibrant Let’s Squawk collection includes this inspiring ‘Make it Happen’ toucan journal. l £7 from www.paperchase.co.uk.

For something more traditional, this Ditsy Garden design notebook is pretty and practical. l £2.95 from www.dotcomgiftshop.com.

If life gives you lemons, make a G&T! This lemon notebook is perfect for notes from your kitchen. l £7.50 from www.gingerlinedesigns.co.uk. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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newshoots Electric spiralizer giveaway! The launch of the UK’s first electric spiralizer has super-charged the spiralizing trend. Whether you’re substituting spaghetti, sprucing up a stir-fry or adding substance to soups and salads, Kenwood’s Electric Spiralizer (£44.99) can now make light work of the task in no time at all. From courgettes and cucumbers to beetroot and broccoli, the Kenwood Spiralizer can turn a wide range of vegetables and even hard fruits into a variety of spirals, noodles and ribbons, making it the perfect tool for clean, delicious, creative cooking. With the

choice of the Pappardelle Cutting Cone to create thick ribbons or the Spaghetti Cutting Cone to make thin vegetable-style noodles, the electric spiralizer ensures you can enjoy healthier meals. Mess-free and quick and easy to use and clean, the Kenwood Electric Spiralizer not only makes your workload lighter, but can also make recipes feel lighter too. Spiralized vegetables offer a deliciously healthy, low-calorie alternative to carbheavy noodles and pasta, while still remaining tasty and filling.

Speedy spirals Vegetarian Living has three Kenwood Electric Spiralizers to give away to lucky readers. To enter the draw, simply go to www.vegetarianliving. co.uk. Competition closes 1 September 2016.

Pizza perfection – with no gluten Hate waste? Zero Waste Week (5–9 September) is the perfect opportunity to take a fresh look at how much you throw away, whether it’s food from your fridge or unwanted items going to landfill that could be recycled. With most of the campaign activity going on via blogs and social media, the theme for 2016 is ‘use it up’ and focuses on food waste. The Zero Waste Week blog has lots of tips on how to buy less food and use up your leftovers in the fridge, plus you can take inspiration from the campaign’s Ambassador Bloggers, who are all passionate about reducing waste. l Find out more at www.zerowasteweek.co.uk and show your support on Twitter #ZeroWasteWeek.

Organic home delivery company Abel & Cole has added a delicious range of organic, gluten-free pizzas to its range. Handmade by The White Rabbit Pizza Co. in Oxfordshire, they have been created to rival any Italianstyle pizza on quality and flavour. Vegetarian options include classic Margherita (£4.99), plus the Vegetariana with courgette, aubergine and pepper, and Vegana, a vegan pizza topped with

‘mozzarella’, pesto and cherry tomatoes, both £5.99 each. Alternatively, you can buy a pack of two pizza bases (£3.99) for adding your own toppings at home. l Order now from www.abelandcole.co.uk.

Small but mighty We’ve heard some exciting news from KitchenAid – for the first time since the introduction of the original Tilt-Head Stand Mixer by Egmont Arens in 1936, KitchenAid is launching a mini version of this iconic culinary workhorse. With the smaller and lighter model, those with limited kitchen space will soon find their culinary partner for life. Offering the same power and performance as the larger model, the KitchenAid Mini Mixer is 20 per cent smaller and 25 per cent lighter with a 3.3-litre bowl, plus it can be used with all the same optional attachments. Launching at John Lewis in September, choose from four shades: Honeydew (exclusive to John Lewis), Matte Black, Matte Grey and Hot Sauce. l £399 from www.johnlewis.com.

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Fantastico e delizioso

Our range of Italian foods are made using only the very finest natural and organic ingredients. So, for a little taste of Italy without jumping on an aeroplane, it’s got to be Suma. Find us in your local independent grocer or search online.

/sumawholefoods

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Season’seatings Turn to page 22 to make Rachel Demuth’s sweetcorn recipes with a dash of chilli spice

Delicious in September While September can often feel more summery than summer itself, and it’s still the season of harvest and plenty, the arrival of the first blackberries in the hedgerows and fresh figs and squashes at the farmers’ market signals the early days of autumn, just as much as the crisper, misty mornings. Make hay while the sun shines, they say, so it’s time to embrace the abundance of this transitional month before soup and stew season begins in earnest.

We

… chillies

UK-grown chillies are at their peak now, and there’s a chilli to suit every palate, from cautious to adventurous. Get saucy If you’re nervous about chillies, try adding a small quantity of finely chopped red chilli to a rich homemade tomato sauce to make it a mildly spicy arrabiata. This works beautifully on pasta, or why not add peppers and cooked beans then bake in the oven with eggs for a Mexican-style brunch dish served with sliced avocado.

Storecupboard seasoning Slice and deseed red chillies and bake in the oven until dry. Grind with a pestle and mortar, then mix into good quality sea salt. Keep in an airtight container and sprinkle on dishes that need pepping up. Mix a little with caster sugar and sprinkle on grilled pineapple for a dessert with a twist!

Fruity salsa Chilli is an essential component of any salsa. Slice a mango and mix with half a finely chopped red onion, the juice of half a lime and half a finely chopped red chilli (adjust quantity to your taste), for a quick accompaniment to a grilled halloumi salad or quesadillas with sweetcorn and grated cheese. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Seasonal star

FIGS

Griddled courgette, blackberry and feta salad Reinvent your office lunch with this nutritious bean, sprout and seed-packed salad starring new-season blackberries. Serves 4 Prep 15 minutes Cook 10 minutes 500g courgettes, thinly and diagonally sliced
 2 tbsp virgin olive oil
 400g can chickpeas, drained
 180g pack lentil sprout mix (buy alongside the bags of salad in the supermarket) 150g blackberries, halved or use half blackberries and half blueberries 40g unblanched almonds, roughly chopped 2 tbsp sunflower or pumpkin seeds
 100g vegetarian feta cheese
 15g fresh mint, finely chopped
 25g flat-leaf parsley, very roughly chopped For the dressing: 2 tbsp virgin olive oil
 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp smoked sweet (mild) paprika
 1 tsp light muscovado sugar


½ tsp Dijon mustard
 salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Brush the courgette slices on one side with the oil then cook in batches in a preheated ridged frying pan or large flat-based frying pan for 2–3 minutes, until just tender and beginning to brown. Lift out of the pan, add to a large bowl and leave to cool.
 2 Add the chickpeas, sprouted lentils, blackberries, almonds and seeds to the courgettes. Crumble over the feta and sprinkle with the herbs. 
 3 Add all the dressing ingredients to a jam jar, screw on the lid and shake until well mixed. Pour over the salad, gently toss together, then serve. 
 n Per serving 397 cals, fat 28.3g, sat fat 6.3g, carbs 19.4g, sugars 7.4g, protein 16.5g, salt 1.7g, fibre 8.7g You may wish to serve without the feta cheese, or try a vegan cheese like white Cheddar-style Cheezly.

Recipe adapted from www.seasonalberries.co.uk.

September brings sweet, juicy and exotic figs to our table, which are very easy to buy, prepare and eat just as they are. Thought to be indigenous to Asia, they are now grown throughout Europe, and you can even find British-grown figs in our supermarkets for a limited time. Alternatively, why not try growing your own? Ideal for raising in containers in a sunny sheltered spot, the RHS recommends classic heavy-cropping varieties such as ‘Brown Turkey’ and hardy ‘Brunswick’ for English gardens. When buying, always choose ripe, richly coloured figs that are plump and soft, and avoid any with a sour smell, broken skin or that

are unripe – they won’t ripen further once picked. They have a short shelf life so keep in the fridge and eat within a day or two. While they are perfectly delicious raw, grilling or roasting brings out their natural sweetness making them ideal to serve with soft cheeses such as ricotta or goat’s cheese and sprinkled with toasted pistachios or pine nuts on a leafy salad; or drizzled with honey and served with porridge or Greek yogurt for breakfast. They also work beautifully in a tarte tatin, or can be poached in port or sweet sherry with spices and aromatics such as cinnamon, citrus and pomegranate seeds.

Your September larder Fruit Apples, bilberries, blackberries, damsons, elderberries, figs, grapes, medlar, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, raspberries, redcurrants

Vegetables Artichoke, aubergine, beetroot, broccoli,

butternut squash, carrots, celeriac, celery, chestnuts, chillies, cob nuts, courgettes, fennel, French beans, garlic, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mangetout, marrow, onions, pak choi, peppers, potatoes (maincrop), pumpkin, runner beans, shallots, sweetcorn, turnips, wild mushrooms

Salad and herbs Chives, coriander, cucumber, lettuce and salad leaves, mint, oregano, parsley, radishes, rocket, rosemary, sage, sorrel, spring onions, thyme, tomatoes, watercress

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Photograph: Cristian Barnett

Season’seatings

Watermelon pizza with fig, feta and raspberry dressing A watermelon pizza might sound a bit bonkers, but this colourful mix of sweet and savoury is a flavour sensation and will be the talk of the table whenever you serve it. It’s a perfect gluten-free treat for a party or girls’ night in, and will definitely be the healthiest pizza you have ever eaten! Serves 2 | Prep 15 mins 2 x round watermelon slices, about 20cm in diameter, 2cm thick 2 ripe yellow, orange or red tomatoes, thinly sliced 2 fresh figs 100g vegetarian feta cheese 50g pitted black olives, halved 25g roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped small handful of fresh mint leaves

small handful of fresh wild rocket sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the dressing: 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar 100g raspberries 1 To make the dressing, whisk the oil and vinegar in a small bowl. Add the raspberries and whisk them in gently until roughly crushed. Season to taste. 2 Remove any seeds from the watermelon slices, if you prefer. Spread with half of the raspberry dressing, reserving the rest. 3 Arrange the tomatoes in a single layer across each watermelon slice, then cut each ‘pizza’ into 6 even-sized wedges, before placing the pieces back together in their

circular shape on serving plates. 4 Cut each fig into 6 even-sized wedges and arrange one on each pizza. Crumble the feta cheese evenly over the top. Dot with the olives and drizzle with the reserved dressing. Scatter over the hazelnuts, mint and rocket, and serve at once. n Per serving 461 cals, fat 33g, sat fat 9.8g, carbs 28.3g, sugars 27.7g, protein 13.4g, salt 3.1g, fibre 6.3g

Recipes adapted from The No-Cook Cookbook by Sharon Hearne-Smith (Quercus, £20). Photography by Cristian Barnett.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Photograph: David Munns

Season’seatings

Fig, mozzarella, orange and chilli salad You need a chilli with a fair bit of fire here to contrast with the creamy mozzarella and the juicy oranges. Make sure that your mozzarella is at room temperature when you assemble the salad, otherwise most of its rich flavours will be masked by the cold. You can serve this as individual portions, or bring it to the table on a single sharing plate, which looks pretty and makes more of a statement. Serves 2 | Prep 15 mins 1 large orange (or 2 medium), peeled, pith removed and thinly sliced 125g vegetarian mozzarella or burrata 4 small or 2 large ripe figs, quartered or cut

into 6, depending on size 1–2 hot red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped leaves from 1 fresh oregano sprig freshly ground black pepper For the dressing: ½ tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice ½ tsp white balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp clear honey salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 First, make the dressing: mix the juices and the vinegar together in a bowl, and season

Recipe adapted from Heat: Cooking with chillies, the world’s favourite spice by Kay Plunkett-Hogge (Quercus, £20). Photography by David Munns.

them with salt and pepper. Add the oil and the honey, and whisk together until they’re well emulsified. (You can also shake all the ingredients together in a jam jar, if you prefer.) 2 To assemble the salad, layer the orange slices on a plate. Tear up the mozzarella with your hands and scatter the pieces over the orange. Gently place the fig quarters in and around the cheese. Scatter the chilli and oregano over the top. Then drizzle with dressing, to taste, and a good grinding of extra black pepper. n Per SERVING 283 cals, fat 18.7g, sat fat 9.5g, carbs 15.1g, sugars 15g, protein 14g, salt 1.6g, fibre 2.3g

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Season’seatings

Raspberry lemon Dutch baby An American recipe that’s a cross between a pancake and a popover, the Dutch baby is an easy batter-based pudding. This version uses almond milk and coconut oil for a lighter dessert that tastes every bit as indulgent. Serves 3 | Prep 5 mins | Cook 13 mins 2 large free-range eggs, at room temperature 125ml almond milk, at room temperature 125ml all-purpose flour pinch of sea salt pinch of cinnamon 3 tbsp coconut oil, melted 60ml icing sugar, sifted fresh lemon juice 125ml raspberries

1 Preheat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7 with a 25cm cast-iron skillet inside. 2 In a blender, combine the eggs, almond milk, flour, salt and cinnamon and blend on medium-high until smooth. If mixing by hand, beat the eggs, then vigorously whisk in the milk followed by the flour, salt and cinnamon until the mixture is well integrated. 3 Using a pot holder, remove the preheated skillet from the oven and add the melted coconut oil, brushing to coat the bottom. Pour the batter into the centre of the hot pan. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the edges are browned and the centre is puffed up, about 12–13 minutes. 4 Remove from the oven and serve straight

away with the sifted icing sugar, a few squeezes of fresh lemon juice and the raspberries scattered over the top. n Per serving 324 cals, fat 15.4g, sat fat 10.7g, carbs 39.2g, sugars 22.5g, protein 8g, salt 0.8g, fibre 2.4g

Recipe adapted from The Love & Lemons Cookbook by Jeanine Donofrio (Avery Books, an imprint of Penguin Random House, £25). Photography by Jeanine Donofrio and Jack Mathews.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Season’seatings

Apple and

Calvados tart A beautifully simple tart, perfect for those who prefer fruity flavours to creamy ones. It’s made from puréed apples cooked with Calvados – the Calvados is the key to creating a really knockout taste. Simply place slices of apple on the top to decorate, and you have yourself a stunning, rustic apple tart. Serves 8 | Prep 35 mins | Cook 50 mins 1 quantity sweet shortcrust pastry (see recipe, below) For the filling: 8 eating apples (about 900g), all but 2 peeled and diced 130g dark muscovado sugar juice of 1 small lemon 70–100ml Calvados, for the glaze 2 large tbsp quince jelly (you can substitute apricot jam) 1–2 tbsp water 1 Preheat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7. Have ready a 24cm fluted tart tin. 2 On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to 2–3mm thick. Lay the pastry over the tin using your rolling pin to help lift it, and use your fingers to press it into the sides so that it fits snugly into the grooves. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the tin to trim off any excess pastry. Prick the base of the pastry with a fork to prevent bubbles forming. Cover the base and sides of the pastry case with baking parchment, and weigh it down with baking beans. 3 Blind bake the pastry case for 10 minutes, until pale golden with no wet patches of dough. Remove from the oven, remove the baking parchment and baking beans, and prick the base again with a fork. Bake for a further 10 minutes until just golden brown, then remove from the oven and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 170C/ fan 150C/gas 4. 4 While your pastry case is baking, prepare the apple filling. Place the diced apples in a medium pan with the sugar and lemon juice over a low heat, and leave them to simmer for 8–10 minutes, then blend them to a fine purée with an electric hand blender or food processor. Add the Calvados and blend again – you can adapt the quantity to suit your own personal preference. Set aside to cool. 5 Slice the 2 remaining apples into thin, decorative slices. Once the purée is cool,

Recipe adapted from A Handful of Flour: Recipes from Shipton Mill by Tess Lister (Headline, £27). Photography by Jonathan Gregson.

pour it into the tart case, and arrange the apple slices on top in circles fanning out. Bake the tart for 20 minutes, until the apple slices have softened and cooked through. 6 Prepare your glaze by warming the quince jelly and water in a small pan over a low heat until you have a thick liquid. Use a pastry brush to glaze the apples with it. Leave the tart to set and cool in the tin. Serve just warm with some cream. n Per serving 366 cals, fat 15.1g, sat fat 8.1g, carbs 54.4g, sugars 37.5g, protein 3.9g, salt 0.3g, fibre 2.2g

Sweet shortcrust pastry 115g unsalted butter 175g soft cake and pastry flour (or plain flour) ¼ tsp salt 25g almond flour 1 tbsp icing sugar 1 large free-range egg yolk 2 tbsp cold water 1 Start by cutting your butter into small cubes of roughly 1cm using two knives to avoid touching it with your hands, and place it in a large mixing bowl. 2 Sift the flour and salt from a height into the

bowl, to get the air into the ingredients. The almond flour is too coarse to sift, so just mix this in. Gently rub the butter into the flours using your fingertips. A light touch here is important; lift up the flour as you do this and let it fall back into the bowl to create a lighter texture for the mix. You should end up with a breadcrumb-type consistency – don’t overwork it. If using a food processor, pulse the flour and butter together until you reach this consistency. Sift in the icing sugar and combine. 3 Mix the egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of cold water, and sprinkle it evenly over the mixture. Use a blunt kitchen knife or palette knife to incorporate it as quickly as possible and bring the dough together. If you need more water add it gradually and sparingly. If your ingredients look dry then add some more water, but stop before it becomes wet and tacky; you want to end up with a soft dough. If using a food processor, it can be a little harder to tell as you can’t touch the dough, so stop the motor from time to time to check the consistency. If you push your ball of dough together and it cracks, the gluten needs a little more working. 4 Shape your dough into a disc and wrap it in cling film. Rest it in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

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Taste not waste

Kate Hackworthy turns an abundance of autumnal windfall apples into a delicious late summer’s treat.

Season’seatings

SOS

Save our scraps Finding clever ways to store your gluts mean they can last through the winter months. l Broad beans can be blanched in boiling water for a few minutes and then frozen. l Carrots can be stored in a box of sand to make them last for a few months. l Courgettes will last for longer in a cool dry place, rather than the fridge, but don’t store well. Spiralizing them to use in place of pasta is a healthy way to use them up quickly. l Store unwashed potatoes in paper bags or hessian sacks in a cool, dark place. l Semi-dry sliced tomatoes in a very low oven for a few hours, then store in sterilised jars of oil and use in pasta, soups and sauces.

About Kate

Ah, the glut. That point when a carefully tended garden rewards hard work by bestowing far more food than any family could ever eat. No gardener wants to throw edible food on to the compost heap, so what can’t be used, stored, preserved or frozen is often given away. It’s wonderful when someone comes to visit laden with bags of beetroot, courgettes and potatoes; there’s something so traditional and neighbourly about sharing this abundance among family and friends. At the moment, our apple trees are rewarding us for ignoring them all year by raining fruit upon us daily. Every morning I send my welly-clad children out to collect the harvest and we store them in apple trays. We do give plenty away, but we also add stewed apples to porridge every morning, while many of them end up in the freezer as apple sauce, and in this case, apple crumble ice lollies to make the most of the late summer sunshine.

Apple crumble ice lollies with date caramel Makes 12 lollies Prep 15 mins + freezing Cook 15 mins

8 apples, peeled, cored and sliced 240ml water 3 tbsp honey or maple syrup 1 tsp ground cinnamon For the date caramel: 15 Medjool dates, pitted (or standard dates soaked in warm water for 1 hour) small pinch of sea salt 5–10 tbsp non-dairy milk (almond works well) dash of vanilla extract For the crumble: 1½ tsp coconut oil 1 tsp maple syrup or honey 2 tbsp oats 1½ tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp finely chopped pecans 1 In a saucepan over a medium heat, combine the apple, water, honey or maple syrup, and cinnamon. Cook uncovered, stirring often, for 10–15 minutes or until the apple is very soft. Allow to cool slightly, then roughly purée with a blender, keeping some large pieces for texture. Allow to cool completely, then divide the mixture between ice lolly moulds and freeze for a few hours or overnight. 2 Meanwhile, make the toppings. For the date caramel, whizz the dates, salt and 5 tablespoons of the milk in a blender until

Kate Hackworthy is a food writer and recipe developer who blogs at www. veggiedesserts.co.uk. Her creative vegetable desserts have frequently appeared in The Guardian and she was Jamie Oliver’s Food Blog of the Month. Follow Kate on Twitter @veggie_desserts, Facebook VeggieDessertsBlog and Instagram @kateveggiedesserts.

smooth. Add more milk if needed to make a thick, dropping consistency. Set aside. 3 For the crumble, beat the coconut oil and maple syrup or honey together. Stir in the oats, flour and pecans, then rub the ingredients together until it forms coarse crumbs. In a frying pan over a medium heat, toast the mixture for a few minutes, stirring often, until golden. Set aside. 4 To serve, dip the lollies into the caramel and then into the crumble topping. n Per LOLLY 151 cals, fat 2.7g, sat fat 0.9g, carbs 30.2g, sugars 25.6g, protein 2.1g, salt 0.1g, fibre 2.5g Opt for the maple syrup rather than the honey to sweeten the apple sauce and the crumble mixture. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Fields of gold

Sweetcorn is one of the treasures of late summer, and these sweet and juicy kernels are a versatile addition to a range of recipes, from Thai corn cakes to Indonesian curry, says chef Rachel Demuth. High summer is the perfect time to enjoy sweetcorn. Of course, eating it fresh from the cob is fun but it can be used in fantastic dishes too. I’ve chosen three sweetcorn recipes from different parts of the world: a soup from Mexico with corn tortilla chips, a tempeh curry from Sulawesi made with baby corn, and spicy Thai corn cakes.

About Rachel Chef-proprietor of the awardwinning Demuths restaurant in Bath for 25 years, Rachel is now dedicated to running the Demuths Vegetarian Cookery School, which offers a range of themed workshops, guest chef events, cookery holidays in France and Italy, and the Demuths Vegetarian and Vegan Diplomas for professional chefs and keen cooks. As a well-travelled foodie, Rachel loves to combine her passion for global cuisine with the best of locally grown produce. www.demuths.co.uk

It’s easy to forget how important maize is as a staple food. It was first domesticated in Mexico over 9,000 years ago and came to Europe with Columbus. Maize is one of the three main cereal staples in the world – the others are wheat and rice. Maize, also known as corn, is low in the amino acid lysine, but as it is traditionally eaten with beans or milk products, which contain more lysine, these make fantastic nutritious combinations. The majority of field maize is grown for corn flour or meal, corn oil, animal fodder and biogas. There is a big difference between field maize and sweetcorn. Field maize is high in starch and not sweet – so don’t be tempted to grab some corn on the cobs from the roadside! Field corn also has no gluten so it cannot be used for yeasted breads, but it makes popular flatbreads like tortillas. Sweetcorn is a separate variety of maize that came from a mutation that produced more sugar and less starch in each kernel on the cob. The cobs are usually yellow or a mixture of white and yellow kernels. Each kernel is a single fruit on the cob, similar to the wheat berries on an ear of wheat. Sweetcorn is harvested when the kernels are immature, at the milk stage, so-called because if you squeeze or cut a kernel, a milky fluid comes out. These are sweet due to the high sugar content that has not yet converted to the solid starch of the mature kernel.

Baby corn are the tiny immature cobs that are popular in Asian cooking. These young corn cobs are grown from a maize variety that produces lots of tiny cobs per plant and are eaten whole.

Buying Buy as fresh as you can, or pick fresh and cook at once. After picking, the sugars start to turn to starch giving a mealy quality rather than a crisp, sweet one. Choose cobs that have a tight, bright green husk and fresh silky tassels. To check how fresh a cob is, peel back a segment of the husk to check that the kernels are rounded without any denting or shrivelling. The kernels should also be smaller towards the tip, showing the cob is still young and not mature. The colour should be a bright yellow, not pale and not golden: pale will be under ripe and golden over ripe. You can also tell how fresh it is by looking at the stem end: if it’s very dry and the husk is withered, don’t buy.

Preparing Peel back the green husks and remove the silks – not just the tangle of dry silks hanging beyond the end of the cob, but also silks growing from each single kernel and passing along the cob to the tip end. A vegetable brush can help with this task. If you want to remove the kernels, cut vertically down the

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Chef’slarder ALL images © rob wicks/eat pictures

cob to slice them off; you can do this before or after cooking.

Thai corn cakes

Cooking Corn can be steamed, boiled or microwaved. It can also be grilled, roasted or barbecued, but these methods can lead to overcooked and tough kernels. I like to barbecue the sweetcorn in their husks, which helps to prevent them getting overcooked. But I find boiling is the best method, as it makes it easy to distribute the heat all around the cob. There are two essentials for boiling cobs: first, don’t add any salt, as it toughens the kernels; second, don’t boil for too long. Excessive boiling speeds up the enzymes responsible for converting the sugar in the kernel into starch, making the kernel less sweet, tougher and more ‘starchy’. Peel off the husks and silks at room temperature, half fill a saucepan large enough to accommodate the cobs lying horizontal with room to cover with water, and bring to the boil. Add the cobs and boil for just 5 minutes. If you want to serve the corn later, plunge them into cold water for 5 minutes, then store in the fridge.

Thai corn cakes Purple sweet potatoes and purple carrots are quite easy to find now and make dramaticlooking food. They taste good too! Makes 12 | Prep 30 mins | Cook 30 mins 125g purple sweet potato, peeled and cut into chunks 125g orange sweet potato, peeled and cut into chunks sunflower oil, for frying 125g sweetcorn kernels 3 spring onions, finely chopped small handful of coriander leaves, chopped sea salt and black pepper fine cornmeal, for dusting For the spice paste: 1 lemongrass stick, chopped 3cm galangal, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 lime leaves, finely chopped 1 red chilli, finely chopped For the carrot salad: 1 orange carrot 1 purple carrot juice of 1 lime 1 Steam the two colours of sweet potatoes separately, until tender. Leave to cool, then mash each colour in separate bowls. 2 To make the spice paste, place the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, lime leaves and chilli in a small processor and blend finely.

3 Heat a little oil in a frying pan and gently fry the spice paste with the sweetcorn and spring onion for 5 minutes. Divide the mixture, together with the chopped coriander, between the two bowls of mashed sweet potato, mix well and season to taste. 4 When you are ready to cook the cakes, roll the mixture into small balls and flatten on a board dusted with the cornmeal, so they are coated on each side. 5 Heat a frying pan and add a couple of

tablespoons of oil. Fry the cakes in batches, turning so they are golden on both sides. Between each batch, wipe out the frying pan with kitchen paper and add more oil. Drain the cakes on kitchen paper. 6 For the salad, julienne the carrots and squeeze over the lime juice. Serve the corn cakes with the carrot salad and a dash of sweet chilli sauce. COOK’S TIPS If you don’t have sweet potato, use ordinary potato instead. Galangal is a www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Mexican sweetcorn soup

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Chef’slarder

Corn tortillas

rhizome from the ginger family with a more perfumed, aromatic flavour than ginger. It freezes well, either whole or chopped. If you can’t get it use fresh ginger instead. You could substitute beetroot in the salad, if you can’t find purple carrots. n Per corn cake 67 cals, fat 3.1g, sat fat 0.4g, carbs 9g, sugars 2.9g, protein 0.8g, salt 0.5g, fibre 1.6g

5 Remove the bay leaf and blend the soup until almost smooth, using a hand-blender or liquidiser. Stir in the grilled corn from the cob and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt, black pepper and lime juice. 6 Ladle the soup into bowls and serve topped with chopped coriander, with lime wedges and corn tortilla chips on the side. n Per serving 323 cals, fat 19.7g, sat fat 2.4g, carbs 31.2g, sugars 10.6g, protein 7.4g, salt 2.8g, fibre 8.6g

Mexican sweetcorn soup This is a lovely soup to make when you have fresh sweetcorn cobs, as the addition of grilled corn kernels gives the soup a gorgeous smoky flavour.

Corn tortillas

Serves 4 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 40 mins

125g masa harina yellow corn good pinch of salt 165ml warm water

2 tbsp sunflower oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 stick celery, chopped 1 Romano red pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 large red chilli, deseeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 bay leaf 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp paprika 400ml vegetable stock 250g sweetcorn kernels 1 corn on the cob olive oil, to baste salt and black pepper lime juice To serve: chopped coriander lime wedges corn tortilla chips

Homemade corn tortilla chips

1 Heat the sunflower oil in a large saucepan and fry the chopped onion and celery until softened, and the onions are sweet and starting to caramelise. 2 Add the pepper, chilli, garlic and bay leaf along with the ground cumin, coriander and paprika, and stir-fry for a few minutes. 3 Add the vegetable stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the sweetcorn kernels and simmer for a further 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid if the soup is too thick. 4 Meanwhile, preheat the grill, rub the corn on the cob with a little olive oil and grill until it is slightly blackened, turning to cook evenly. Allow to cool, then slice off the kernels.

Makes 6 small tortillas | Prep 30 mins Cook 10 mins

1 Mix the masa harina and salt together in a large mixing bowl and add the warm water. Mix together with your hands, shape into a ball and let stand for a few minutes. Add more water if the dough is crumbly. 2 Gently knead the dough and divide into 6 small balls. Roll out each ball into a circle 3mm thick between 2 sheets of baking parchment, or use a metal tortilla press (we find that placing the dough ball in a split open plastic sandwich bag stops the dough sticking to the tortilla press). 3 Heat a dry frying pan. Place a tortilla into the hot pan. When the edges begin to dry out, turn and cook for 30 seconds then turn again. After 30 seconds remove the tortilla and keep warm in a clean tea towel. COOK’S TIP Masa harina is made from coarse maize flour and can be found at Mexican stores, specialist sections of supermarkets and online.

Homemade corn tortilla chips Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6. Oil a large baking tray with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Cut the tortillas into triangles and spread on the baking tray. Sprinkle with a little salt and smoked paprika and rub it into the tortillas. Roast for 5 minutes in the oven and then turn the chips over and cook on the other side until golden and crisp.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Chef’slarder Sulawesi sweetcorn and tempeh curry This Indonesian curry is creamy with coconut milk and rich in protein from the tempeh. In Indonesia tempeh is known as ‘the meat of the fields’ and is valued as a cheaper, healthier alternative to meat. Serves 4 | Prep 30 mins + marinating Cook 25 mins For the tempeh: 2 tbsp shoyu 2 tbsp water 1 tsp kecap manis or brown sugar ½ tsp hot chilli sauce 150g tempeh, cut into slices sunflower oil, for frying

Nasi kuning

Sulawesi sweetcorn and tempeh curry

For the curry: 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 red chilli, chopped 2.5cm fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 tsp turmeric 8 cardamom pods, bruised small piece of cinnamon stick 400ml coconut milk 150ml water 150g carrots, sliced into matchsticks 125g baby sweetcorn, sliced lengthways 1 red or orange pepper, deseeded and sliced 150g green beans, cut in half 1 tsp lemon juice sea salt and black pepper To garnish: handful of fresh coriander, chopped 1 large red chilli, sliced 1 Make up the marinade by mixing together the shoyu, water, kecap manis or brown sugar, and chilli sauce. Pour over the tempeh slices and leave to marinate for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure that the tempeh is evenly covered. 2 To make the curry, blend the garlic, chilli and ginger in a mini food processor to a smooth paste or chop finely. 3 Heat the sunflower oil in a large saucepan, add the garlic paste and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the turmeric, whole cardamom pods and cinnamon stick and quickly stir-fry. Add the coconut milk and water, stir well and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. 4 Add the carrots and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the sweetcorn, red or orange pepper and green beans, then simmer until just tender. Finish with the lemon juice and season to taste. 5 When the curry is ready, fry the tempeh. Drain off any remaining marinade (the tempeh should have absorbed most of it),

pat dry with kitchen paper and fry in sunflower oil until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. 6 Top the curry with the tempeh slices, chopped coriander and sliced red chilli, and serve with nasi kuning coconut rice (see recipe, right). COOK’S TIP Tempeh is made of compressed lightly fermented soya beans. It’s packed full of protein, free of cholesterol and has a nutty flavour and a chewy texture. You can only buy tempeh frozen from wholefood shops and Asian stores. Kecap manis is a sweet dark soy sauce from Indonesia. You can buy it from oriental stores and in the specialist section of some supermarkets. If you can’t find any, mix 2 tablespoons of shoyu with 1 teaspoon of soft brown sugar. n Per serving 367 cals, fat 28.4g, sat fat 15.8g, carbs 15.9g, sugars 10.5g, protein 12.3g, salt 2.1g, fibre 7.6g

Nasi kuning In Indonesia, this coconut rice is called nasi kuning or ‘very yellow rice’, from the turmeric which colours the grains a beautiful golden yellow. Serves 4 | Prep 5 mins | Cook 10 mins 125g jasmine fragrant rice ½ tsp turmeric 1 lemongrass stalk, bruised 2 lime leaves 100ml coconut milk 100ml water Rinse the rice and put into a saucepan with all the other ingredients. Bring to the boil, then cover with a lid and simmer on the lowest heat for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave to stand covered for a further 5 minutes. Fluff up the rice with a fork and serve steaming hot.

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Photograph: Sarah Williams

Big eats in the big smoke

Enjoying a meal at a London Cooking Project event

Alice Whitehead finds out more about the growing and eating events at this year’s Urban Food Fortnight. It’s estimated some 380 tonnes of homegrown fruit and veg is reaped every year from London’s growing network of urban gardens and allotments – and for two weeks every September the capital plays host to what’s become the UK’s biggest harvest festival. Urban Food Fortnight, 9–25 September, celebrates everything grown, made and cooked on its doorstep, connecting more than 2,500 amateur urban growers and small food producers with the capital’s restaurants and retailers, so they can take

About Alice Alice Whitehead is a writer who loves to grow, eat and get muddy. For 16 years she has written garden and food features for magazines and newspapers, and more recently split her time between tending two large, city allotment plots and a school garden club. She still hasn’t decided whether she prefers the pen or the spade. www.wonderlandfreelance.co.uk

their homegrown treasures from garden gate to plate. And it promises to be a beast of a feast. Among the 140 events planned each year, there are beer and ice cream pairings, pop-up pickle workshops, botanical cocktail making workshops, crayfish racing, cheese making and community brewing, with people creating bespoke beers from their homegrown hops. This year, Urban Food Fortnight will also be offering the ultimate in ‘fast food’ at a Dinner in Our Back Garden supper with an alfresco feast at the Melio Street allotments using the gardeners’ produce. Cooked on site by creative chefs from The Table Café, Southwark, all the proceeds go towards helping homeless people at St Mungo’s gain garden skills. ‘It’s all about diversity within the local economy – creating skills and promoting food that’s good for people, communities and the environment,’ explains Clare Gilbert, from the London Food Link, the campaigning group behind the fortnight. ‘It’s a chance for people – whether they are growers, chefs or school children – to come together over good local food in their own neighbourhood.’

Green therapy Indeed, aside from the tasty treats and eats, there is a serious message to Urban Food

Fortnight. Not only does it give producers a shop door for their homemade food and drinks – big names such as The OXO Tower Bar & Brasserie used vegetables from Sutton Community Farm in its most popular dishes last year, for example – it’s also about improving the mental and physical wellbeing of Londoners. Passionate about passing on the therapeutic element of food growing is Natalie Mady, a former engineer who swapped building design for garden design when she set up community gardening project Cordwainers Grow, in Mare Street in 2014. Starting off as just a hobby, in a radical career change her spin off Hackney Herbal scheme – which aims to get more people growing, using and understanding the benefits of herbs – has taken off and she’s now working on it full time, along with codirector Sarah Lo. Growing herbs at different locations across East London – from the rooftops and balconies of Hackney houses to raised beds in Hackney City Farm, and a grey car park turned apiary at The Bee Garden, Dalston – the pair make a range of teas from handpicked herbs and blend by hand, selling them at local cafés and restaurants, including Tiosk on Broadway Market and Save the Date café.

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Photograph: Hackney Herbal

Greenliving

Herbs to harvest this month

Photograph: Hackney Herbal

Photograph: The Table Café

Photograph: London Food Link

A workshop at Hackney City Farm

The funds from the teas go towards their main focus – hands-on herbal workshops – which show communities how to make teas from herbs, but also cosmetics such as lip balms and soaps, herbal cleaning products and even first aid such as cough syrups and bandages. ‘A lot of people have a patch of herbs in their garden, but few know what to do with it, and we wanted to show people how easy it is to use herbs,’ says Natalie. ‘They can have an incredible impact on people’s mental health and physical wellbeing. What’s more, while growing veg can be a bit intimidating for some, herbs do well in pots, are easy to grow and many of them, such as rosemary and mint, are perennials so they’re very forgiving!’ For this year’s Urban Food Fortnight, Sarah and Natalie will be creating a very special seasonal tea blend with tastings at local cafés and delis, and they’ll be putting together a ‘Herbal Map’ – a collection of stories, memories and photographs about herbs from the people they meet at their workshops. ‘Like many of the Urban Food Fortnight events, we want

Photograph: Hackney Herbal

Herbal workshops

to recapture a bit of the life and knowledge our grandparents had – and above all reconnect city dwellers with nature.’ l For more on Urban Food Fortnight, go to www.urbanfoodfortnight.org; for more on Hackney Herbal go to www.hackneyherbal.wordpress.com. To support the work of London Food Link, become a member via www.sustainweb.org/ londonfoodlink/membership.

Elderberries We might think of it as a tree or shrub but botanically the elderberry is a herb, and the flowers and berries have long been used to make drinks. A simple sugar or honey syrup made with elderberries gives a wonderful boost to the immune system and can be taken as a medicine to help alleviate cold and flu symptoms – and children love it! Lemon verbena One of Natalie’s favourites, this herb instantly makes you feel relaxed. Lovely as a tea, it can also be used instead of lavender in little bags to sneak under your pillow. ‘One smell and the stress melts away,’ says Natalie.

Rosemary Perfect mixed with lemon balm in teas, rosemary oil also contains antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, and makes a good mouthwash. Yarrow This ‘wound herb’ takes its name from the Greek hero Achilles who, legend has it, would carry bunches of yarrow to treat fellow soldiers on the battlefield. It acts as a haemostatic agent and therefore helps to staunch blood flow ­– and luckily has a tendency to plant itself in grassy areas, so it’s on-hand for tumbles and falls. l Hackney Herbal will be holding An Evening of Herbs at Hackney City Farm on 16 September.

Make your own herbal body lotion This herb-infused oil can be used as a base for homemade lip balms, ointments and creams (if mixed with melted beeswax) – or is great on its own.

TRY

You will need • Fresh herbs, such as rosemary or lavender • A base oil, such as sunflower, almond, coconut (good for dry and sun-damaged skin), grapeseed (good for oily skin types) or olive oil (good for dry and thirsty skins)

1 Harvest your herbs in the morning on a dry day before they lose their volatile oils (and do not harvest more than a third of the plant if you want to reuse). 2 Leave your harvest to dry in a cool, dark place, out of direct sunlight, for 3–7 days, depending on humidity levels. 3 Place 100g herbs into a glass jar and cover with 500ml oil. Leave it on a sunny windowsill for 2 weeks to infuse, then strain away the herbs and use within 6 months. 4 If you don’t want to wait, infuse the oil with the herbs using heat. Combine the herbs and oil in a heatproof bowl and set over a pan of boiling water, heating gently for 1–2 hours. Never let the oil boil.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Catwalk with a conscience With London Fashion Week coming up this month, ethical fashion has never been hotter. Kelly Rose Bradford discovers the companies who are making sure our clothes do not cost the earth.

The upcycled Bottletop bag

When Emma Watson walked the red carpet at the Met Gala Ball in May this year, all eyes were on her outfit. And while the design of Emma’s get-up was nothing short of amazing – trousers with a skirt over and a flowing train – there was a lot more to it than just the quirky look and the designer label. The formfitting, bustier-topped creation boasted ecocredentials longer than its cascading train, having been made from recycled plastic bottles, organic cottons and silks. The look was created by Calvin Klein as part of the Green Carpet Challenge, an initiative to put sustainable fashion in the spotlight at high-profile events. And while eco-friendly clothes might not be anything new (hemp harem pants, anyone?), many brands are now taking their ethical ethos much further than just producing wearable collections in sustainable fabrics.

Partnerships with communities Bottletop workers based in Africa

Indeed, for many companies, the true definition of sustainable clothing is a product which enhances not only the life of the end user, but all those involved in its production and manufacture, from garment stitchers to entire communities. One such brand is Bottletop, which began life in 2002 as the Bottletop Foundation, the brainchild of Cameron Saul and his father Roger, founder of the luxe British fashion brand Mulberry. Bottletop products were first rolled out as a design collaboration with Mulberry, and featured bags made from recycled bottle tops and lined with Mulberry leather. These were produced after Cameron became inspired on a trip to Uganda where he discovered locals making accessories from the otherwise worthless lids.

These bags not only provided local employment, but proceeds from their sales went towards supporting grassroots education projects in Africa. The success of this collaboration eventually led to Cameron starting the Bottletop Fashion Company with his business partner Oliver Wayman in 2012. The company now funds the Bottletop Foundation, enabling it to educate young people across the world on health issues such as HIV/AIDS, drug abuse and teenage pregnancy. Their current range is described as ‘art for the craftsman and the consumer’, and comprises high-end bags, purses and belts, produced by artisans in Brazil using upcycled materials. ‘Our approach has always been a design-led product,’ Cameron says. ‘It has always been about creating beautiful items that people covet and want to own and be proud of, irrespective of the mission behind it, and the way in which it is made, and who it is helping.’

Not-so-frivolous fashion There is, Cameron says, a rising tide of consumer consciousness around the fashion industry, and its impact on people and the planet. ‘I’ve been really excited by customer reaction to the boards in our store on London’s Regent Street which tell the stories of the lives and communities the Bottletop Foundation touches,’ he says. ‘And it’s that that turns a customer from loving a one-off design to actually really falling in love with the mission and what something stands for.’ Cameron says there is now ‘overwhelming evidence’ to suggest that if there are two almost identical products side by side and one of them has ethical and environmental

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Upfront

Leah Rodrigues, Holi Studios

credentials, the consumer will choose that product. ‘They then have a story they can share,’ he says. ‘And if someone says to them, wow, that’s a cool bag, they are then proud to tell them where it actually comes from.’ Going forward, Cameron says that education is the key to ensuring future generations are encouraged to ‘choose carefully’ when it comes to fashion, not only in terms of what the product is made from but also how and where it is produced. ‘It is depressing that in recent years consumers have been led to believe that it is fine to have throwaway fashion. Research shows product costs have actually gone up, yet high street prices have gone down – so who is paying for that? Generally, the garment workers.’

Putting people first Indeed, garment workers in Cambodia in particular are renowned for working in unsafe and exploitative conditions – so much so, violence erupted in some industrial areas in 2014 when employees protested against their appalling conditions. But for Holi, a British luxury brand producing women’s coats and jackets in 100 per cent natural, biodegradable fabrics, a safe, nonexploitative workplace is at the heart of their Cambodian production plant. Founded by Leah Rodrigues in 2014, Holi Studios is the company’s training and manufacturing centre in Siem Reap, where local people are employed in an environment very far removed from the country’s notorious sweatshops. Leah says Holi Studios has the potential to change lives, and believes that all companies should be working to the same ethical levels they do – and those who do not should be named and

shamed. Her focus, she says, is on having ‘a high-end brand that just happens to be made in a nice environment, where we know who our staff are’. ‘I have relationships with a few sewing charities, and we recruit directly from them,’ she says, explaining that most of the women who go into the sewing programmes are ex-rice farmers who have come to the city to train. ‘We are based in a town that is primarily focused on tourism, so we have lots of traffic coming through but not much industry,’ she says. ‘So if you do not speak English, there is not a lot available to you. The whole idea behind setting up Holi Studios was to provide opportunity and to fill that gap, so that people were not having to travel down to the main factories in Phnom Penh, which can be an eight-hour bus journey.’ And far from just employing staff to cut and stitch, Leah’s local workforce are the backbone of her Cambodian operation. ‘They run the bushiness. My operations manager is 37. I took her on when she was 35 and was told she wouldn’t be able to run

the place because she was too old, but she is amazing and much better placed than I am to be connecting with the team on a day-today basis.’ And this, Leah says, is what ethical fashion is really about – producing quality, biodegradable products while giving communities safe workplaces and stable incomes – and making that judgement on the ground, not from an HQ in an affluent city thousands of miles away. ‘It’s all about going out there and seeing what the local environment and expectation is,’ she says. ‘Because sometimes it can be very far removed from how you think somewhere should be doing things.’ l Find out more at www.bottletop.org and www.holi.org.uk. London Fashion Week runs 16–20 September.

Turn the page for some of our favourite sustainable fashion companies >>

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Upfront

Elvis and Kresse

Po-Zu Stylish, sustainable and ethical London-based footwear brand who pledge 3% of their sales income to charity, and are currently ranked the UK’s number one ethical shoe brand by The Ethical Company Organisation. Men’s and women’s boots, sandals and sneakers from around £125.

Howies

Quirky accessories, with the core range made from decommissioned British fire hoses – 50% of the sales of which are donated to the Fire Fighters Charity. Pictured: Weekender bag £299.99.

Laid-back leisurewear with a conscience from this Wales-based eco-friendly company, who use organic cottons and recycled and recyclable fabrics across their men’s and women’s ranges. Vest tops from £29; jeans £75.

www.elvisandkresse.com

www.howies.co.uk

Get the sustainable look from head to toe

Eighteen Rabbit Fairly traded jewellery made from bomb casings and bullets salvaged after the war in Cambodia, crafted by people affected by landmines or living with HIV. Pictured: Bomb casing flower earrings £15.

www.po-zu.com

www.eighteenrabbit.co.uk

Bourgeois Boheme Premium ethical sportswear made from responsibly sourced materials with low environmental impact and respect for people in the supply chain. Every item has a code that can be entered online to give a donation to Water for Kids. Men’s and women’s clothing from £40.

Luxe, contemporary and sustainable women’s fashion crafted from eco-friendly fabrics, utilising organic linen, Bluesign certified silks and responsibly dyed, organic cotton. Four stores across the UK; prices from around £42.

An independent London-based footwear brand, Bourgeois Boheme makes men’s and women’s state-ofthe-art luxury shoes completely free from animal-derived materials. The British-inspired styles are all artisanmade in Portugal from the finest eco-friendly vegan ‘leathers’, redefining the perception of leatherfree footwear. Prices start from £130.

www.sundried.com

www.eileenfisher.com

www.bboheme.com

Sundried Eileen Fisher

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photograph: Catherine Frawley

Portobello mushroom burger with sweet slaw and chunky paprika chips page 45

Everyday eats Cook nurturing feelgood recipes, from Georgina Hayden’s slow-roasted miso aubergine to Ruby Tandoh’s comforting autumnal stew.

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Comfortcooking

Food to nurture Jon Bennett discovers how Greek-Cypriot chef Georgina Hayden turned to cooking to heal herself and her family after experiencing personal loss.

We may be only two-thirds of the way through 2016 but I’d bet my house that Georgina Hayden’s book, Stirring Slowly, will be many people’s cookery book of the year. Her boss, Jamie Oliver, has called her debut ‘a new modern classic’; Anna Jones has described it as ‘a truly beautiful book’; while April Bloomfield named it ‘a masterpiece of approachable, delicious recipes’, which pretty much hits the nail on the head. At a time when the glut of books focusing on clean eating or ‘getting a glow’ seems endless, Stirring Slowly takes a different approach to the benefits of cooking. Georgina doesn’t just look at the nutritional qualities of ingredients, she writes infectiously about the way in which cooking can be good for the soul. It’s the sort of book that revels in the joy of making a meal and the pleasure that comes from transforming ingredients into a dish and sharing it with your loved ones. In person, Georgie talks just like she writes: enthusiasm and ideas tumble out of her as she explains that her childhood was where her love of food began. Her family are GreekCypriot and she grew up living above her grandparents’ restaurant in London’s Tufnell Park. ‘It was brilliant. We were surrounded by food and we got to go in and help out, so I learned loads without even realising it. It wasn’t until I got to uni that I realised not everyone’s family life revolved around food. Our culture is based on the idea that whenever something important happens we mark it with parties and eating together.’

A fork in the road It was when she was studying for a degree in fine art that she began to realise she had to make food more than just a hobby. ‘I realised

Georgie found herself ‘being thrown in at the deep end’. Jamie’s food team works on everything from food styling to recipe development, but the 34-year-old says she loved it. ‘I’d never been to a catering college, I didn’t have any of those flash knife skills, but I had a good grounding in food, so I felt okay. I just had to graft.’ She is still there after 10 ‘brilliant’ years, but says she’d always had the ambition to write a book of her own. ‘For me, cookbooks have always been the best things ever; I own more cookbooks than anything else. A few years ago I was given the contact details for an agent and the initial plan was that I was going to do a book on Greek-Cypriot food. I don’t think anyone has done that properly and it’s something that I still want to do. Then I fell pregnant with my son Archie and I had a great pregnancy, but he died just before the birth. Everything changed then.’ most people didn’t constantly rip recipes out of mags and keep them, and I thought I’d got to see whether I could work in food. I got an internship at a magazine and met someone who was a food stylist, and I had this lightbulb moment when I realised jobs existed where you actually got paid to make food look good!’ She got an internship on Sainsbury’s magazine and that led her to work with Jamie Oliver’s food team on a shoot. It was a fork in the road that changed her life. ‘One of the team had a birthday that night and was desperately trying to find a bakery that was open so they could buy a cake. I offered to just make one for them. I think loads of interns perhaps wouldn’t have known how to bake or maybe would have kept quiet. Whatever the reason, we really got on and they offered me a job.’

The healing process In the introduction to Stirring Slowly, Georgie writes incredibly movingly about Archie’s death and the impact it had on her relationship with food. She talks about cooking as a form of therapy, using the routine and search for new recipes as part of a healing process to rebuild her confidence. ‘When I lost Archie I couldn’t really leave the house; all I could do was cook some food and not much else. It made me realise that what’s important about food to me is family and how cooking makes you feel good. Everyone was writing books about healthy food making you feel good and using superfoods like chia seeds. That’s great, but for me I love the actual cooking as well, that process and losing yourself in making something. I think the process of making a

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photographY: Laura Edwards

meal can be as beneficial as eating a load of pumpkin seeds. It can make you feel grounded and calm.’ She put plans for the Greek-Cypriot book to one side, but after a year Georgie’s agent got back in touch to see if she was ready to think about writing. ‘I could have written the Cypriot book but at that time it felt irrelevant to me. I told my agent how the food I was cooking had changed and cooking had become therapeutic and she said “let’s go for that”. I feel it’s really important to stress that this isn’t a book about me losing my son, but it was about how I was cooking at the time. I was really emotional and felt we needed to look after our family and cooking became part of that. I was doing a lot of mindfulness and I felt that cooking gave me something

I could lean on. I got out cookbooks and wrote shopping lists and that routine became something important to me. And I think this affects everyone. I’ve seen other friends who have been going through tough things and the first thing you want to do is cook them food.’

Cooking with love The book that emerged is a love letter to cooking and the ways in which, for example, there can be a lot of pleasure from stirring a risotto or watching a black dhal tick over on a hob. ‘I think one of the things I’ve taken from Jamie is that I’m really not faffy. I don’t like recipes where there are endless things to do; that’s not what I want when I get home from work. I want recipes that feel enjoyable. I think about the way my Granny

‘When I lost Archie I couldn’t really leave the house; all I could do was cook some food and not much else’

cooked and that idea of cooking with love. I love giving food as presents – I’d much rather make something than buy a gift and that’s the spirit I wanted in the book.’ It’s not vegetarian but, as you’d expect from someone with a Greek-Cypriot background, it has a huge range of produce in it. The chapter on soups alone is worth the price of the book and her salads are stunning. Georgie says her plan is to revisit the Greek-Cypriot book next. She’s such a natural communicator I presumed she’d fancy moving into broadcasting, but she says she thinks the days are gone when having a cookery show was a vital next step for food writers. ‘I just don’t think TV is that important now. Look at the success of Anna Jones for example, her book has been a massive success and she’s not needed her own programme to get that. I wouldn’t mind doing telly but for me the thing is being able to just write. I just want the book to succeed and to get to do more and more of them. That would be bliss for me.’ www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Comfortcooking Georgina’s Recipes

Serves 2 | Prep/cook 20 mins

Bombay omelette

½ red onion 2 small vine tomatoes ½ bunch of coriander 1 green chilli 4 large free-range eggs ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground cumin sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 50g baby spinach leaves ½ lemon 2 knobs of butter

I had my first masala omelette on a trip to India and it totally converted me to eating punchy flavours in the morning. Breakfast in India isn’t a sweet affair – no sugary cereals or cakes, but spicy masala omelettes, dosas with sambal, meals that really will set you up for the day and don’t weigh you down. This is now a go-to dish in our house, and not just at breakfast time – it will often get made in the evening if we’re hungry and tired. It’s incredibly straightforward and easily adaptable, depending on what you have to hand. A perfect protein-packed start to the day.

1 Peel and finely chop the onion. Halve the tomatoes, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon and discard, then finely chop the

flesh. Finely chop the coriander stalks and leaves. Halve the chilli, deseed and finely slice. 2 Whisk the eggs together until well combined, then season generously and whisk in the onion, tomatoes, coriander, chilli, turmeric, garam masala and cumin. Put the spinach leaves into a bowl, squeeze just enough lemon to coat, toss together, then leave to one side. 3 Melt half the butter in a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and ladle in half the omelette mixture. Swirl the eggs around for 2 minutes, pushing them to the middle and tilting the pan so that all the mixture has a chance to set. Leave it for a minute, then slip the omelette on to your serving plate. 4 Top with half the dressed spinach and fold the omelette in half. Serve straight away, and repeat with the remaining butter, omelette mix and spinach. n Per serving 227 cals, fat 14.9g, sat fat 5.4g, carbs 6.7g, sugars 4.9g, protein 16.6g, salt 1.6g, fibre 2.8g

Whole roasted miso aubergine I’ve met quite a few people who don’t love aubergine, and I can honestly say most of the time it’s because of the way it’s cooked. That rubbery, dry, slightly squeaky texture is pretty off-putting, but that’s purely because it hasn’t been cooked for long enough. Aubergines are a beautiful thing, and when given the right care they are stunning. Take this recipe, for example – I treat the aubergines like a piece of meat, slashing them, marinating and slow-roasting them whole. The result is a deliciously creamy and fragrant dish that takes little effort to make. The other bonus is that you don’t use much oil, as you cook the aubergines whole, so it’s light too. Serves 4 | Prep 20 mins | Cook 55 mins 3cm piece of ginger 4 cloves garlic 2 small green chillies 2 aubergines sea salt and freshly ground black pepper groundnut oil 200g vine cherry tomatoes 4 spring onions ½ bunch of coriander 1 lime 1 tbsp tamarind paste ½ tbsp honey 3 tbsp white sweet miso

bombay omelette

1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Peel the ginger and garlic, and finely slice the chillies. Pierce the aubergines all over with

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whole roasted miso aubergine

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Comfortcooking a paring knife, as if you were making incisions into a piece of meat. Grate the ginger into a large mortar and pestle, and bash together with the garlic, chillies and a good pinch of salt until you have a thick paste. Mix in just enough oil to make it spoonable, then spoon the mixture over the aubergines and massage it into the incisions, really getting the flavours inside. 2 Place the aubergines in a large roasting tray, dot the cherry tomatoes around, and pop into the oven for 40 minutes, turning a couple of times. 3 While the aubergines are cooking, trim and finely slice the spring onions and roughly chop the coriander, stalks and all. Put into a bowl, squeeze over the lime juice to coat and mix all together. Leave to one side. 4 Mix together the tamarind, honey and miso and add enough water to make a thick glaze. Remove the roasting tray from the oven after 40 minutes, turn the oven up to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6, and drizzle the miso glaze over the aubergines. Pop back into the oven for a further 15 minutes, to caramelise, then remove and leave to cool a little. 5 Working carefully, remove the stalks from the aubergines and discard them, then roughly chop the flesh in the tray into coarse chunks. Stir in the dressed spring onions and coriander and serve right away. n Per serving 130 cals, fat 7.2g, sat fat 1.3g, carbs 11.1g, sugars 7.1g, protein 4.5g, salt 2.3g, fibre 5.2g

British summertime stack I thought of a million names for this cake and none of them do it justice. If I could bottle up England in the summertime and bake it? This would be it. Think jugs of Pimm’s in the sunshine, deckchairs, Wimbledon and bowls of Eton mess, all rolled into one. A sunny, crowd-pleasing number. Serves 12 | Prep 45 mins Cook 1 hr 35 mins 150g butter, plus extra for greasing 490g caster sugar 5 large free-range eggs 1 orange 1 lemon 150g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder 2–3 tbsp milk

700g strawberries 125ml Pimm’s, plus extra for brushing 200ml double cream 1 vanilla pod 200g fat-free Greek yogurt icing sugar, to serve fresh mint leaves or flowers, for decorating (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/ gas 4. Grease two 20cm round cake tins and line with greaseproof paper. 2 Cream the butter and 150g of sugar in a free-standing mixer until pale. Separate the eggs, and add the yolks to the mixer (keeping the whites to one side for later). Finely grate in the zest of the orange and lemon and beat. Fold in the flour and baking powder, followed by enough milk to give you a smooth, creamy batter. Evenly divide the batter between the tins and spread out. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look enough – it will be, I promise. 3 Pop the tins into the oven and bake the cakes for 25 minutes, until golden and cooked through. Leave to cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then transfer to a rack and leave to cool completely. 4 Reduce the oven temperature to 150C/fan 130C/gas 2. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form, then slowly pour in 250g of caster sugar. Keep whisking for around 6 minutes, until the whites are glossy and stiff. 5 Cut 2 pieces of greaseproof paper, big enough to line 2 baking sheets, and draw around the cake tins with a pen. Turn the sheets over and lay them on the baking sheets, sticking them down in the corners with a little meringue. Divide the meringue between the 2 circles (you should be able to see the outline faintly through the paper) and spread it out so it is just within the circles – the meringue will spread a little as it cooks. 6 Smooth the top of one of the meringue discs and peak the other with the back of a spoon to give you a pointy texture – this will be the top. Bake for around 70 minutes, until cooked through but not too dry. Leave to cool on the baking sheets. 7 While the meringues are cooling, make the fruit filling. Hull and chop 500g of the strawberries and place in a small pan with the Pimm’s and the remaining 90g of sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat a little and

british summertime stack

leave to bubble away for 8–10 minutes until you have a sticky strawberry Pimm’s compote. Leave to cool. Hull, quarter and slice the remaining 200g strawberries. 8 When you are ready to layer your cakes, whisk the cream until soft peaks form, scrape in the vanilla seeds and fold in the yogurt. Place one of the sponges on a board or cake stand and brush with a spoonful of Pimm’s. Drizzle over half the strawberry compote and top with the un-peaked meringue. Spoon over most of the vanilla cream and most of the sliced strawberries. Top with the second sponge, brush with another spoonful of Pimm’s and most of the remaining compote, and add the final peaked meringue layer. Top with a few dollops of the cream mixture, a drizzle of strawberry compote and the remaining sliced strawberries. Sieve over a little icing sugar and decorate with mint leaves and edible flowers, if you like. n Per serving 469 cals, fat 22.7g, sat fat 13.3g, carbs 59.4g, sugars 49.9g, protein 5.8g, salt 0.5g, fibre 2.9g

Recipes adapted from Stirring Slowly by Georgina Hayden (Square Peg, £20). Photography by Laura Edwards.

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How to make…

Vegetarian marshmallows These soft cushions of sweetness are a minefield for vegetarians and vegans, as most recipes use gelatin. While it’s possible to find veggie-friendly marshmallow brands, it’s also easy and fun to make your own. A little parcel of handmade marshmallows makes a great gift too! Professional ‘marshmallowist’ Oonagh Simms shares her expertise in making the freshest, fluffiest marshmallows. ‘Making vegetarian marshmallows is notoriously tricky. This is the only recipe I find to be successful with an easily acquired substitute for gelatin. Before you start, make sure that your stand mixer bowl is clean and dry and has no greasy residue – cleaning it with a small dab of white wine vinegar on kitchen paper works perfectly.’

Vegetarian marshmallows 250g icing sugar, mixed with 250g cornflour, for dusting 2 tbsp agar powder 200ml water 200g granulated sugar 100g glucose syrup 3 free-range egg whites 1 tbsp guar gum ¼ tbsp cream of tartar 2 tbsp vanilla bean paste

Prepare a baking tin and dissolve the agar Line a 20cm square baking tin with cling film and dust in a small portion of the 50/50 sugar/cornflour mix. Dissolve the agar powder in 120ml of water in a small saucepan and leave to one side.

Make the sugar syrup Mix together the sugar, glucose and 80ml of water in a pan and bring to the boil to make your sugar syrup. Cook the mixture until it reaches 120C on a sugar thermometer.

photographY: Helen Cathcart

Makes 36 x 3cm squares

Cook the agar

Leave to set

Put the dissolved agar mixture on the heat, bring to the boil and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

Pour into the tin and smooth with a damp palette knife. Leave to set overnight at room temperature.

Whisk the ingredients together

Slice and leave to dry

Combine the egg whites, guar gum, cream of tartar and vanilla and whip until stiff, usually about 4 minutes. Gently pour the sugar syrup in, keeping your mixture on a medium speed. Increase the speed, and continue to whip for 2 minutes. Add in the cooked agar mix and beat for a further 12–15 minutes at full speed. The marshmallow mixture should be stiff and produce firm ribbons.

Dust a work surface by sifting over a thick layer of the dusting mix. Tip the marshmallow slab out of the tin, using the cling film to give you some lift. Dip a sharp knife in hot water to heat it, trim the edge of the slab neatly, then cut into squares. Roll in the dusting mix, then leave to dry for 24 hours before eating. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.

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Kitchentutorial

Have fun with flavours

Once you’ve mastered the basic marshmallow recipe, try adding some delicious flavours using fruit purées. Simply replace the water in the marshmallow recipe with the same volume of purée and omit the vanilla bean paste.

Raspberry & Champagne

You will need 200ml raspberry purée. Just before the marshmallows are ready to be poured out, add 30ml rosé Champagne and continue to whip. The Champagne will loosen the mixture, but whisk on high speed for 5 minutes until it comes back up.

Mango & sweet orange

Replace the water used in the marshmallow recipe with 150ml mango purée mixed with 50ml freshly squeezed orange juice.

Raspberry, rose & pistachio

Make up the marshmallow recipe using 200ml raspberry purée. Just before the end of whipping, pour in 1 teaspoon of good quality rose water and continue to whip on a high speed. Once the marshmallow has set and been cut into squares, roll them in finely ground pistachio nuts to coat. ‘Raspberry and Champagne is my best-selling flavour because, deep down, we all love a bit of posh!’ Oonagh Simms

How to make a fruit purée Makes 500ml purée 500g soft fruit 50g icing sugar 1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice l Put the fruit in a blender, or use a handheld blender, and whizz until puréed. Add the sugar and lemon juice and blend to combine. Push through a sieve if you don’t want the seeds. Leave to cool. The purée

can be covered and stored in the fridge for 1 week, or frozen for up to 3 months. Cook’s tip This method works well for soft fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, mango, melon and banana. If you want to purée hard or stone fruit, such as apples, pears, peaches, plums and apricots, first peel and core/deseed, then simmer with 10% icing sugar to fruit and a little water until soft. Cool, then whizz in the blender.

Recipes adapted from The Marshmallowist by Oonagh Simms (Square Peg, £15). Photography by Helen Cathcart.

About Oonagh A Paris-trained pâtissière and chocolatier, Oonagh started selling marshmallows as The Marshmallowist on a street-food stall on London’s iconic Portobello Road. Now she has a bakery of her own, and sells her wares through the very best food shops, including Harvey Nichols and Selfridges.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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photographY: Catherine Frawley

Roasted butternut squash and fig with quinoa and goat’s cheese

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Seasonalmeals

Harvest suppers Catherine Frawley serves up simply prepared dishes using the best of high summer and early autumn ingredients.

Portobello mushroom burger with sweet slaw and chunky paprika chips

Roasted butternut squash and fig with quinoa and goat’s cheese Serves 4 | Prep 10 mins Cook 40 mins 500g butternut squash, cut into 2.5cm cubes 3 tbsp olive oil 4 fresh figs, cut in half 200g quinoa 450ml vegetable stock 1 tbsp lemon juice 100g vegetarian goat’s cheese, rind removed handful of torn basil sea salt and ground black pepper 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6. Place the butternut squash on a baking tray, drizzle with 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, turning every 10 minutes or so. 2 Remove the squash from the oven and add the figs, cut-side up, drizzle with a little oil and season. Return to the oven for another 10 minutes, or until the butternut squash is soft and brown and the figs are starting to caramelise. 3 Meanwhile, cook the quinoa according to the packet instructions, using the vegetable stock instead of water. Drain and set aside. 4 To assemble, put the quinoa in a large bowl and add the remaining olive oil, the lemon juice and a little salt and pepper. Toss until the quinoa is coated, then add the goat’s cheese, squash and basil. Mix well, transfer to serving plates and top with the figs. n Per serving 374 cals, fat 18.1g, sat fat 6g, carbs 40.8g, sugars 12.8g, protein 14.7g, salt 3.1g, fibre 6.9g

Portobello mushroom burger with sweet slaw and chunky paprika chips Makes 6 burgers | Prep 30 mins Cook 50 mins For the burgers: 400g can red kidney beans, drained 4 large portobello mushrooms, gills removed, chopped into small pieces 60g broccoli, chopped into small pieces ½ red onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 3 large free-range eggs, beaten 50g vegetarian Parmesan-style cheese, grated 100g gluten-free breadcrumbs vegetable oil, for frying sea salt and ground black pepper brioche buns and fresh rocket, to serve

For the slaw: 150g red cabbage, thinly sliced 1 red apple, coarsely grated, plus a little lemon juice to stop it browning ½ red onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp mayonnaise ½ tsp English mustard For the chunky chips: 2-3 large Desiree potatoes, skin on, cut into chunky chips 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp paprika (not smoked) sea salt and ground black pepper 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6. Prepare the potatoes for the chips and place in a bowl. Toss with the oil, paprika and seasoning until evenly coated. Place on a non-stick baking tray and cook for 40 minutes or until golden brown, turning occasionally. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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2 Meanwhile, prepare the slaw. Add the cabbage, apple and onion to a bowl. Mix together the oil, vinegar, honey, mayonnaise and mustard in a jam jar, shake well, then add to the bowl. Mix thoroughly and set aside. 3 Add the kidney beans to a bowl, roughly mash with a fork, then add the mushrooms, broccoli, onion, garlic and mustard and mix together. Add the eggs, Parmesan-style cheese and breadcrumbs, and bring the ingredients together until you have a thoroughly even mixture. 4 Roughly split the mixture into 6 burgers and start forming your patties, gently shaping and pressing the mixture together to create the burger shape. Once they are formed, heat the oil in large pan. As the patties are quite thick you need to cook them slowly, so keep the heat low to medium. Cook for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until golden and a crust has formed on both sides. 5 Assemble the burgers in a brioche bun with a handful of rocket and slaw, serving the chips on the side. n Per burger 577 cals, fat 26.5g, sat fat 4.7g, carbs 65.6g, sugars 9.3g, protein 20g, salt 2.7g, fibre 9.7g

freezeme

You can freeze the cooked burgers, separating each one using baking parchment or cling film.

Creamy Louisiana corn stew Serves 4 | Prep 10 mins Cook 35 mins 200g mixed long grain and wild rice 4 corn on the cob 1 tsp butter 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 orange, 1 green and 1 red pepper, deseeded and diced 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped 60ml vegetable stock 2 large tomatoes, chopped 3 tbsp sour cream sea salt and black pepper fresh basil, to serve 1 Cook the rice according to the packet instructions. 2 Wash the sweetcorn, pat dry and with a sharp knife slice the kernels from the cob. Place in a bowl and set aside.

Creamy Louisiana corn stew

3 In a large pan, melt the butter, add the shallot and fry gently for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper and chilli and continue to fry for 10 minutes, stirring every so often. 4 Add the stock and tomatoes. Cover with a lid and simmer for 5 minutes, ensuring it doesn’t dry out (add a little more water if necessary). 5 Stir in the corn and the sour cream, then simmer for about 10 minutes or

until the corn is cooked but still has some crunch. Serve the stew over the rice and garnish with a handful of fresh basil. n Per serving 365 cals, fat 9.2g, sat fat 4g, carbs 59.1g, sugars 10.4g, protein 12.7g, salt 1.3g, fibre 12.7g Choose a dairy-free butter for frying the shallots, and track down a tub of Tofutti’s Sour Supreme.

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Seasonalmeals Fennel, feta and tomato tarts Serves 4 | Prep 15 mins Cook 20 mins 1 pack ready-rolled puff pastry 2 tbsp milk vegetable oil, for frying 1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced 15–20 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 75g vegetarian feta cheese, crumbled sea salt and black pepper mixed green salad, to serve

Fennel, feta and tomato tarts

For the dressing: 1½ tbsp tahini 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp maple syrup ½ fresh chilli, deseeded and chopped zest of ½ lime 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6. 2 Roll out the pastry and cut into 4 squares using a sharp knife. Score a 1cm border around each square, brush the borders with the milk and transfer to a non-stick baking tray. Bake for about 10 minutes, until lightly golden and puffed. 3 Heat a little oil in a large pan and add the fennel. Fry for a few minutes on each side, season and set aside. Do the same with the tomatoes, cut-side down in the pan for a minute or two, then set aside. 4 Remove the pastry squares from the oven. With the back of a spoon, press down the middle of the squares, leaving the border raised. Fill the squares with the fennel slices, followed by the tomatoes and crumbled feta. Return to the oven for another 10 minutes or until the feta is starting to brown. 5 Meanwhile, make the dressing by adding all the ingredients into a jam jar and shaking until combined. Serve the tarts with a green salad and the dressing. n Per serving 903 cals, fat 68.9g, sat fat 25.6g, carbs 56.4g, sugars 7.6g, protein 15.1g, salt 2.8g, fibre 8g Jus-Rol puff pastry is suitable for vegans, ensuring you avoid the ‘All Butter’ version. Brush the pastry with soya milk and choose a vegan cheese – although different in consistency from feta, melting varieties should work best here. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Seasonalmeals

Roasted chickpeas on sweet potato with kale and Cheddar Serves 2 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 50 mins 400g can chickpeas, drained olive oil, for roasting 1 tsp paprika 2 large sweet potatoes, cut in half lengthways 75g kale, thick stalks removed 1 tbsp lemon juice and 1 tbsp olive oil, mixed together 100g grated vegetarian Cheddar sea salt and black pepper For the dressing: ½ bulb garlic 3 tbsp olive oil juice of 1 lemon 1 tbsp maple syrup sea salt and black pepper 1 Drain the chickpeas thoroughly and pat dry with kitchen towel. Place in a bowl and add 1 teaspoon of olive oil, the paprika and seasoning. Toss to coat and transfer to a non-stick baking tray, ensuring the chickpeas are evenly spaced. Place in the oven, turn the temperature to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7 (do not preheat) and leave to bake for 40 minutes, giving them a shake every so often. 2 Brush the sweet potatoes all over with olive oil and place cut-side down on baking parchment, together with the garlic bulb for the dressing. Place in the oven once it’s reach the required temperature and cook for 40 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, rub the kale with the lemon and olive oil mixture to soften the leaves. Set aside. 4 Once the garlic is roasted, remove the cloves and mash with a fork. Add the rest of the dressing ingredients and stir thoroughly. 5 Remove the chickpeas and sweet potatoes from the oven. Turn the potatoes the right way up, prick the flesh with a fork, sprinkle with the Cheddar and chickpeas, and return to the oven for 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted. Serve with the kale and garlic dressing. Cook’s tip Roasted chickpeas also make a great snack alternative to crisps and nuts. n Per serving 822 cals, fat 49.8g, sat fat 15.5g, carbs 70.1g, sugars 21.5g, protein 25.5g, salt 2.2g, fibre 15.3g Substitute the Cheddar with Veganic’s grated Pizza Cheese, or any melting vegan cheese block that can be grated.

Roasted chickpeas on sweet potato with kale and Cheddar

Artichoke spaghetti with lemon and chilli dressing Serves 4 | Prep 20 mins | Cook 25 mins 4 large artichokes, washed, cut into 10, stem and outer leaves removed juice of ½ lemon 300g spaghetti vegetable oil, for frying 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped juice of 1 lemon olive oil sea salt and ground black pepper grated vegetarian Parmesan-style cheese, to serve 1 Prepare the artichoke and toss in the juice of ½ lemon to stop it discolouring. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and blanch the prepared artichokes for 2 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2 Cook the spaghetti according to the packet instructions. Drain, reserving a little cooking water, and set aside. 3 Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, heat a little vegetable oil and fry the artichokes for a few minutes each side (depending on your pan size you may have to do this in batches). Once all the artichoke is cooked, add the garlic, chilli, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add a couple of tablespoons of the reserved spaghetti cooking water to loosen. Mix well. 4 In a large serving bowl, add the drained spaghetti, drizzle with a little olive oil, season, toss to coat, then add the artichoke and juices. Mix well and serve immediately with grated Parmesan-style cheese. n Per serving 440 cals, fat 16.9g, sat fat 4.3g, carbs 57.2g, sugars 3.1g, protein 17.2g, salt 1.3g, fibre 3.8g Try Engevita Nutritional Yeast Flakes, or vegan Parmesan-style alternatives from brands such as Vegamigo, Jeezano, Violife and VBites.

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Artichoke spaghetti with lemon and chilli dressing

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From the wholefood pantry photographY: Cath Muscat

Jude Blereau, Australia’s wholefood cooking expert for over 20 years, reveals how with a little preparation you can still put nourishing and delicious dishes on the table – even on your busiest days.

Baked peach salsa and halloumi

Baked peach salsa and halloumi Served with a bowl of lemony greens, this is a tasty and substantial meal. The baked peach salsa by itself would be delicious served with greens and goat’s cheese. Serves 4 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 30 mins 2 small–medium jalapeño chillies 4 peaches, stones removed and cut into wedges 250g mixed ripe tomatoes, quartered or left whole if small cherry tomatoes 2–3 small red onions (about 80g each), peeled and cut into thick slices 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil sea salt 1–2 tsp raspberry vincotto vinegar 200g vegetarian halloumi cheese, cut into thick slices butter, ghee or extra-virgin olive oil, for frying small handful of basil leaves 1 To make the salsa, place the jalapeño chillies on a wire rack over a gas flame and cook, turning frequently until lightly blackened and blistered – be a little careful as chillies have only a thin layer of flesh and you don’t want to overdo it. You can also do this on the barbecue. Place the chillies in a small bowl, cover and stand until cool. Remove and discard the skins (they should slip off easily) and the seeds, then cut the flesh into thin strips. 2 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Place the peaches and the tomatoes on a baking tray along with the onions. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the onion is lightly caramelised and cooked. There may be a touch of caramelisation on the peaches also, and some juice will have run. 3 Remove from the oven and allow to cool enough to handle. Peel off and discard the skins of any larger tomatoes, then give them a little squeeze to release some of their juices. Add the sliced jalapeño chillies to the tray. Drizzle with the vinegar, then transfer to a bowl. 4 For the halloumi, brush a char-grill pan (or frying pan) with a little butter. Cook the halloumi slices over medium heat for 1–2 minutes on each side, or until golden and well marked. Remove and drain on paper towel. Serve the halloumi with the peach salsa warm or at room temperature, and scatter with the basil leaves. n Per serving 296 cals, fat 20.3g, sat fat 9.5g, carbs 14.4g, sugars 13.6g, protein 14.2g, salt 2.5g, fibre 3.9g

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Workingweek Rosemary, preserved lemon and tomato dressing Makes about 185ml 60ml rosemary infused olive oil (see recipe, below) 1–2 tsp finely chopped preserved lemon, pith removed 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tsp wholegrain mustard ½ tsp honey (optional) 1 clove garlic, crushed pinch of sea salt 14 medium basil leaves, thinly sliced (optional) 2–3 ripe tomatoes

Spelt berry, ratatouille and borlotti bean salad

Place all the ingredients, except the tomatoes, in a small clean glass jar. Take care to use just the preserved lemon skin, discarding the pith and centre fruit. Cut the tomatoes in half crossways, then rub them, cut-side down, through a sieve placed over a bowl to catch the juices, flattening the tomatoes as you go. You will need 80ml juice. Add the juice to the jar, seal and shake to combine well. Taste and adjust as needed; I like this to be quite sharp with a noticeable preserved lemon tone. This will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Spelt berry, ratatouille and borlotti bean salad Spelt berries are a good match for borlotti beans. They have history together that goes back hundreds of years, having grown up in the same area. This is a hearty and robust salad that is even more sublime when fresh borlotti beans are available. Serves 6 Prep 10 mins + soaking and marinating Cook 55 mins + pre-cooking the beans 95–100g dried borlotti beans pinch of bicarbonate of soda or 2cm piece of kombu or wakame sea vegetable 1 quantity rosemary, preserved lemon and tomato dressing (see recipe, right) 2 tbsp very coarsely chopped rosemary leaves extra-virgin olive oil or rosemary-infused olive oil (see recipe, right), for frying 1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into 1cm dice 1 courgette (about 200g), cut into 1cm dice sea salt 1 aubergine, cut into 1.5cm dice freshly ground black pepper handful of basil leaves, roughly torn

large handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, well rinsed and roughly chopped 1 quantity cooked spelt berries, drained 1 Soak the borlotti beans in water with the bicarbonate of soda or kombu or wakame sea vegetable for between 12–24 hours. Drain and rinse thoroughly, reserving the sea vegetable if used, then place in a saucepan, cover well with fresh water and add the sea vegetable again. Bring to the boil and simmer for at least 1½ hours, although some beans can take up to 5 hours to cook depending on the variety – they should have a soft and creamy centre when pressed gently. Don’t add salt to the cooking water as this will toughen them. 2 Combine the cooked borlotti beans, dressing and rosemary in a bowl. Stand for at least 1 hour. 3 Meanwhile, pour enough olive oil into a 24cm frying pan to just cover the base (about ¾ tablespoon should be plenty). Place the pan over medium heat and when hot, add the pepper and cook, stirring regularly, for 10–15 minutes, until soft but not brown. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pepper from the pan and set aside, leaving the flavoured oil in the pan.

Replace the optional honey with vincotto or rapadura sugar, to sweeten.

Rosemary-infused olive oil Makes 60ml 60ml extra-virgin olive oil 6 small rosemary sprigs (about 2cm length) Place the oil and rosemary in a small saucepan over low heat – you are simply warming the oil, so in no way should it ripple or smoke. You will need enough heat to hear a bit of a sizzle. Use a wooden spoon to press the rosemary down into the oil, from time to time, and cook on a very gentle heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stand to infuse for 30 minutes. Drain the oil into a bowl and discard the rosemary. Store in a clean glass jar or bottle in a cool, dark place for up to 4 weeks. You may want to add a small sprig of fresh rosemary to the jar or bottle. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties

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Workingweek 4 If needed, add another 1 teaspoon of olive oil. Add the courgette and a pinch of salt and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until just tender and the juices have evaporated. Using a slotted spoon, remove the courgette from the pan, leaving as much oil behind as possible, and add them to the pepper. 5 Return the pan to medium heat. Toss the aubergine with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and add to the pan. Cook the aubergine for 25–30 minutes, turning every now and then and more frequently towards the end of cooking, until golden all over. Remove and add to the pepper and courgette. 6 Season the vegetables to taste with freshly ground black pepper. Set aside to cool, then toss through the basil and parsley. To put the salad together, place the cooked spelt berries, vegetables, beans and dressing in a bowl and gently toss together. COOK’S TIP If you have time, marinate the borlotti beans in the dressing and rosemary overnight. The flavour will be better for it. Cooked cavolo nero adds lovely colour to this dish, and olives can be added as desired, but go carefully as they have the ability to overpower the delicious flavours already there. n Per serving 270 cals, fat 16.3g, sat fat 2.4g, carbs 23.7g, sugars 4.1g, protein 7.5g, salt 1.5g, fibre 6.7g

Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties Don’t be tempted to fry these in coconut oil because this can make the patties far too sweet. Serve these in a burger bun or as they are with the sweet sultana and chilli sauce. Makes 14 | Prep 30 mins | Cook 1 hr 6g wakame 500g sweet potato 1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying 1¼ tsp roasted sesame oil 225g sesame seeds, lightly toasted 1 brown onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped freshly ground black pepper 2 small free-range eggs, lightly beaten 2 tsp tamari large handful of coriander leaves, roughly chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/ gas 3. Place the wakame on a baking tray and toast in the oven for 10 minutes, or until crisp and completely dried out. Take care not to burn the wakame; it may take less time. Remove from the oven and increase the temperature to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. 2 Peel the sweet potato and cut lengthways into pieces about 2–3cm thick, then place on a baking tray. Combine 3 teaspoons of the olive oil and ¼ teaspoon of the sesame oil, then rub the oils all over the sweet potato to coat well. Bake for 30–40 minutes, or until just lightly coloured and soft to the touch. Be careful not to overcook and dry out the sweet potato. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool a little. 3 Meanwhile, prepare the wakame sesame seeds. Pound the wakame using a mortar and pestle, discarding any stems, until roughly ground. Add the toasted sesame seeds and gently grind until the seeds begin to smell fragrant and glisten – you will hear a popping sound as they begin to break a little. Do not grind to a meal or paste. Set aside. 4 Place the remaining sesame oil and olive oil, the onion and garlic in a medium-sized saucepan and cook over low–medium heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until the onion is translucent and beginning to caramelise. Add a little pepper, then transfer to a mixing bowl. 5 Roughly break up the sweet potato and add to the onions with the wakame sesame seeds. Stir until roughly combined and use a butter knife to cut the sesame seeds and onion into the sweet potato – you want to keep the sweet potato in chunks. Add the beaten eggs, tamari and chopped coriander, and stir gently until just combined. 6 Shape the mixture into 14 patties about 6cm in diameter and no more than 2cm thick. Place on a tray and stand for 30 minutes to allow the patties to firm up a little. When the weather is warm, put them in the fridge instead. 7 Pour enough oil into a medium-sized frying pan to coat the base by 5mm and place over medium heat. When the oil is hot but not at all smoking, use a metal spatula to lift the patties into the oil; they will gently sizzle as they hit the oil. Fry for about 6 minutes,

Sweet sultana and chilli sauce Made with rapadura sugar and sultanas to sweeten the sauce, this is deeply flavoured and goes with just about everything. To add a smoky dimension to this, add a little chipotle chilli or smoked paprika to taste. Makes 500ml 125g red chillies (I like a mixture of long red and jalapeño), seeds and stems discarded 4 cloves garlic 25g fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped 170g sultanas 250ml apple cider vinegar 440g rapadura sugar or raw sugar 1 tsp sea salt ½ tsp ground turmeric Place all the ingredients in a food processor or blender with 250ml water and process until the sultanas and chilli are very, very finely chopped. Transfer to a medium-sized saucepan and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally for 1–1½ hours, until thick and the consistency of soft jam. Keep in mind that the sauce will thicken and ‘sticky up’ a bit as it cools. Transfer to a clean glass jar and store in the fridge for up to 6 months.

until golden, before turning to cook the other side. If the heat is too high they will brown too quickly before they have a good chance to set. Parts of the sweet potato may brown – these highly caramelised sweet potato bits are one of my favourite things about these patties. Drain on paper towel and serve. n Per patty 166 cals, fat 12.7g, sat fat 2.3g, carbs 8.4g, sugars 2.8g, protein 4.6g, salt 0.2g, fibre 3.2g

Recipes adapted from Wholefood from the Ground Up by Jude Blereau (Murdoch Books, £16.99). Photography by Cath Muscat. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Follow your cravings Great British Bake Off star Ruby Tandoh celebrates the joy of cooking and eating with her second cookbook, Flavour: Eat What You Love, which focuses on following your appetite and indulging in what you fancy. Here she chooses autumnal-style dishes and ingredients to reflect the changing seasons. Smoky butternut squash stew with chickpea dumplings It’s totally meat-free, but this hearty stew – laden with vegetables, smoky rich and topped with sticky chickpea dumplings – couldn’t feel further from a vegetarian compromise. The earthiness of the cumin-laced dumplings sits perfectly alongside the autumnal flavours in the stew, but if you want a more traditional topping, just lose the mashed chickpeas in the dumpling mix, add a dash more flour and adjust the water accordingly. Serves 6 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 1 hr 10 mins 4 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 3 tbsp harissa paste 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground cinnamon 5 medium carrots, thickly sliced 1 butternut squash (about 1–1.2kg), peeled and cut into 2–3cm chunks 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained 600–750ml vegetable stock salt and black pepper, to taste For the dumplings: 400g can chickpeas, drained 150g plain flour 75g vegetable suet 2½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika good pinch of salt small handful of parsley leaves, finely chopped 90–100ml cold water

1 Heat the oil in a large pan over a low heat, then add the onion and fry gently for 10 minutes, until softened and translucent. 2 Add the garlic, harissa and spices and cook for 2 minutes before throwing in the carrots and butternut squash. Put a lid on the pan, make sure the heat’s reasonably low and let the vegetables sweat, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. 3 Once the vegetables have begun to steam, tip in the chopped tomatoes, chickpeas and enough vegetable stock to comfortably cover the veg, bring to a simmer then cook with the lid off for 20 minutes to reduce the sauce a little. 4 While the stew cooks, prepare the dumpling mix. In a large bowl, mash the chickpeas with a fork until no whole ones are left. Toss through the flour, suet, baking powder, ground cumin, paprika, salt and parsley. Add enough cold water to work the ingredients together to a firm, slightly sticky dough. 5 Once the stew has had a chance to reduce, season it. Divide
the dumpling dough into 10–12 balls and sit them on top of the simmering stew. Put the lid on the pan and cook for 20 minutes, until the dumplings are spongy, the vegetables tender and the sauce rich and smooth. n Per serving 520 cals, fat 24.6g, sat fat 8g, carbs 64.5g, sugars 18g, protein 17.1g, salt 4.4g, fibre 17.9g

Honeyed plum and pine nut cake A dark, fragrant cake, sweet with honey and ripe autumn plums. Take care to use a good honey (I used an orange blossom one) because it will impart plenty of flavour, as

Smoky butternut squash stew with chickpea dumplings

well as sweetness. It makes a huge difference to the taste of the cake. I can’t imagine anything being better suited to this than the unique punchiness of pine nuts, but you could swap in sunflower seeds or chopped almonds if you’re after a cheaper alternative. Serves 10 | Prep 25 mins | Cook 50 mins 5–6 ripe plums (roughly 400g) 125g butter, softened 175g runny honey
 2 large free-range eggs
 225g plain flour 1 tsp ground cinnamon

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Bookshelf photographY: Charlotte Bland Honeyed plum and pine nut cake

1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ¼ tsp salt 100g pine nuts 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/ gas 4 and grease a 20cm square cake tin or oven dish. Cut the plums into segments (I cut mine into eights) and discard the stones. 2 Beat the butter and honey together in a large bowl until thick and creamy, then add the eggs one at a time. 3 In a separate bowl, mix the

flour, cinnamon, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt before adding this dry mixture to the butter, honey and eggs, stirring well to combine. Add three-quarters of the pine nuts to the batter and fold in most of the plum segments. 4 Pour the mix into the prepared tin or oven dish and scatter the remaining pine nuts and plum pieces over the top. Bake for 45–50 minutes, until the cake is well risen and springy to the touch. Eat while still warm from the oven, with a jug of hot custard.

322 cals, fat 18.5g, sat fat 7.3g, carbs 34.2g, sugars 16.7g, protein 5.3g, salt 0.7g, fibre 2.2g

n Per serving

Recipes adapted from Flavour: Eat what you love by Ruby Tandoh (Chatto & Windus, £20). Photography by Charlotte Bland. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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bins on Rob photograph: Jas

Our columnist Áine Carlin focuses on fun, flavour and fantastic food, sharing everything from brilliant baking tips to essential ingredients and simple switches that will transform your dairy-free cooking.

Solitaire suppers

Cooking for one is a forte of mine. Just because I’m eating alone doesn’t mean I won’t put any effort into my meals – quite the opposite. I think how we treat ourselves is typically a good reflection of how we treat others – so be kind to yourself by not rushing mealtimes, and savour those moments alone. Solitary eating is something most of us do on a daily basis, and I’ve found that even if I have 15 minutes to spare, I’ll use that time to create a simple, delicious dish that will not only nourish me but also allow me to zone out of my workday for a bit. Crucial. Even if you don’t particularly like being in the kitchen, I still believe it’s important (vital, in fact) to take time out of your day to eat your lunch (away from your computer and the chaos, I might add!), so you can focus on other nonwork related things for a while. I actually find I’m much more productive when I make a point of removing myself from my workstation for at least half an hour. In my opinion, if you skip lunch you’re more likely to make mistakes and it also means that you’re totally beat by the end of the day. This easy broth recipe is definitely something you could prepare in advance and reheat the next day, but it’s probably at its best fresh out of the pot – a steaming bowl of comfort food if ever there was one. Now the seasons are beginning to change you may fancy a bit of sustenance, but with this soup the crunchy toppings add a freshness that still give a nod towards summer too… PS Did you know that September is my favourite month here where I live in Cornwall? Once most of the tourists have dissipated, a quiet calm comes over the county. The weather remains pretty

warm until at least October, so we often head to the beach to catch a sunset or grab a drink in a nearby bar – and that means less time in the kitchen for me. In such time-constrained instances I simply double the quantities and make this a meal for two, rendering it a multifunctional recipe to have up your sleeve. The ingredients are more than flexible too – I just happen to like the carrot/ courgette combo but it would also be terrific with sliced peppers and even some tofu. The splash of cider vinegar really lifts the broth and the spritz of lime at the end is also an essential addition. For me, I now try to approach food the way I approach life – with less rigidity and an eagerness to make every moment special – even in my alone time. I’ve found the more at ease I am with myself, the happier I’ve become – and, for what it’s worth, I think a solitary bowl of noodle soup is a pretty good place to start.

Miso noodle broth Serves 1 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 15 mins ½ tbsp groundnut oil 2 spring onions, cut diagonally 1 small carrot, cut diagonally 1 celery stick, cut diagonally ¼ fennel bulb, cut diagonally 1 small courgette, cut diagonally 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 small green chilli, finely chopped thumb-size piece of ginger, finely chopped 1 heaped tbsp miso 1 tbsp tamari or soy sauce 1 tsp cider vinegar 1 nest rice noodles

For the toppings: 1 tbsp sweetcorn kernels 1 tbsp sliced red cabbage 1 tsp finely chopped spring onion 1 tsp chopped chives 1 tsp sesame seeds pinch of dried chilli flakes juice of ½ lime 1 Heat the oil in a saucepan. Add the spring onion, carrot, celery, fennel and courgette and lightly sauté for a few minutes to soften. 2 Add the garlic, chilli and ginger to the pan. Stir and sauté for a minute or two before adding the miso, tamari and cider vinegar. 3 Cover with about 500ml water and bring to a gentle simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. 4 Meanwhile, place the rice noodles in a separate bowl and cover with freshly boiled water. Let them steep for at least 5 minutes to soften and separate. Drain and rinse. 5 Pour the broth into a bowl, add the noodles and top with the sweetcorn, cabbage, spring onion, chives, sesame seeds and chilli flakes. Squeeze over a little lime and serve. n Per serving 472 cals, fat 13.2g, sat fat 2.3g, carbs 71.3g, sugars 16.3g, protein 17.5g, salt 4.6g, fibre 5.2g

About Áine Áine blogs at www.peasoupeats.com about vegan food, fashion and lifestyle. Her first cookbook, Keep it Vegan, was published by Kyle Books in 2014, and her second, The New Vegan, is on sale now.

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Miso noodle broth

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Lost & found Katrina Slack moved to the beautiful Cornish coast to open a B&B, and discovered a new passion for beachcombing, creating meaningful artworks using recycled materials and ‘ghost gear’. If you’ve ever dreamed of escaping to the coast and setting up your own business – perhaps even during your family holiday this summer – then Katrina Slack’s story will be a source of inspiration, or just plain envy. Originally from Exeter, Katrina had spent 25 years living in London before moving to the coast. She says she had always loved Cornwall and wanted to bring her children up by the sea, which is how she and her partner and their two boys ended up living in Carbis Bay near St Ives, where she’s now part of the team running the vegetarian Coast B&B.

Coastal escape ‘We’ve been running this place for 14 years now,’ says Katrina. ‘It has very much been an evolving project. Initially we bought the building as “St Kew Guest House”. At the time we didn’t really know what we were

going to do with it – possibly renovate it and do “bed only”. Lucky for us my longterm friend Paula Richards decided to join us in Cornwall as she loves cooking and had always dreamed of running a vegetarian café or restaurant. I’d previously worked with Paula in London running a music agency and we also played in bands together. She joined us and for the first six months slept behind the sofa in our living room!’ Gradually, after a lot of hard work, the new Coast B&B and Bean Inn emerged and have been thriving ever since. ‘It was quite mad in those days; we did a lot of the work ourselves,’ she says. ‘My dad laid floors, hung doors and helped with every aspect of the work, along with other friends who helped out. Since then Coast has evolved, from having a café to a restaurant, and then Kate joined the team nine years ago and gave the restaurant a new air of professionalism.’ Being an exclusively vegetarian establishment was definitely unusual for a

coastal establishment, but being slightly out of town gave the team an opportunity to try something different. ‘We were definitely a talking point,’ she says. ‘In the early days we attracted some negative attention but we also attracted like-minded people, which was great. I ended up standing in the general election for the Green Party and later both Paula and I became Green councillors. This helped us to establish ourselves in the community. However, we still get people coming into the B&B and then leaving the moment they realise we are exclusively vegetarian!’

More than driftwood In the early days, Katrina says she was much more hands-on, often making breakfasts with a baby strapped to her back and then turning chambermaid. Now her two sons, Reef and Ellis, are teenagers and she’s able to be less involved with the day-to-day running of the B&B, she’s often to be found beachcombing,

‘Katrina has found a positive and powerful use for the detritus she finds on beaches, creating unique sculptures that also aim to highlight the environmental threat of all the rubbish and contaminants’

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Ecoart

Photograph by Annie Bungeroth.

The Bean Inn

The team at Coast B&B: Kate Horrill, Paula Richards, Katrina, and Gail Richards A dolphin sculpture created from discarded fishing nets

especially in the quieter winter months, to find new materials for her recycled artwork. ‘The beaches get far too busy in the summer,’ she says. ‘And in the winter you get all sorts of things washed in with the storms. I’m really lucky to have the St Ives’ beaches right on my doorstep. I love Porthkidney Sands and also venture over to Marazion, while Perranuthnoe is another favourite. Sometimes I just collect things and take them to recycling or landfill, but if I find something interesting and inspiring I will make a piece of art.’ With an estimated 640,000 tonnes of fishing equipment discarded or lost in our seas every year, this ‘ghost gear’ is a potential death trap for sea creatures, with dolphins, turtles, seals, seabirds and whales being particularly vulnerable. But Katrina

has found a positive and powerful use for the detritus she finds on beaches, creating unique sculptures that also aim to highlight the environmental threat of all the rubbish and contaminants that end up in the sea. ‘It’s hard to ignore the struggle of marine wildlife if you live by the coast as the evidence is all around you,’ she says. ‘We often spot seals, dolphins and birds on the shore, tangled in fishing gear. We also find increasing amounts of plastics and other rubbish washed up on the beaches. Since working with World Animal Protection for their Sea Change campaign I’ve realised the power of using my artwork to raise awareness. I now also make smaller pieces that are sold in galleries but all have an environmental message.’

The Bean Inn was established in 2003 and its reputation has grown steadily throughout the years since. The restaurant offers a warm, intimate setting spread over three small dining rooms displaying local art. With a mission to serve the tastiest vegetarian and vegan dishes from around the world, the kitchen always works with the best local, organic and seasonal produce whenever possible and all of the ingredients are approved by the Vegetarian Society. Being environmentally friendly is also important at The Bean Inn, and food miles are minimised by the restaurant’s fruit and vegetable supplier, the Allotment Deli, whose produce comes from local allotments and smallholdings. Bread and olives are sourced at the local farmers’ market, while herbs and edible flowers are grown in the restaurant’s gardens. The wine list includes award-winning Cornish options and a Fairtrade organic wine, which is sold in aid of the Born Free Foundation, while beers and ciders are supplied by local breweries. l For more information or to book, visit www.coastcornwall.co.uk.

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Ecoart

Supporting wildlife Katrina had a passion for wildlife from a young age, but unfortunately being asthmatic and allergic to animals meant that working with them would never be possible. ‘Art helped me find alternative ways of expressing my concerns for animals, she explains. ‘I became a member of the WWF and collected information about the plight of wildlife around the world. The two things always seemed to be linked, as I would spend hours with my sketchbook drawing the animals I had discovered.’ Her interest in wildlife led naturally to a decision to become veggie at the age of 16. ‘I think, like so many children, it was a gradual realisation that the meat on my plate had to come from somewhere and that was actually something living,’ she says. ‘I don’t think there was one particular incident that started me on the path to vegetarianism but I just loved all animals. My parents were sympathetic with the way I felt, but they believed it was not healthy to have a vegetarian diet. It wasn’t until I was 16 that I cut out all meat and fish and started to use cruelty-free products.’ These days, beachcombing brings Katrina closer to marine wildlife, although not always in the most positive way, as she often happens across distressing sights such as sea birds tangled in nets or a seal that has choked on a plastic bag. However, she has also managed to turn a lot of apparent rubbish into recycled artworks to convey her preservation message. ‘For my very first piece I collected lots of plastic orange spoons from Kynance Cove and made a wall hanging in the shape of the sun, called “Sunspot”,’ she says (pictured above). ‘I do find all sorts – flip-flops, plastic dolls and pink plastic bottles – but I also find lots and lots

Katrina’s recycled artworks convey a preservation message

of fishing gear and small pieces of plastic material, such as oil drums. Once I even found bits of an old plastic Christmas tree, which I used to make a piece for the Krowji Christmas Show. Sometimes you find useful things – we have a watering can we use for the garden that we found on the beach.’ Often working to commission, Katrina makes pieces for individuals and wildlifeinspired designs such as gulls, choughs and foxes for galleries, but says one of her most interesting and meaningful projects to date has been for World Animal Protection, a large-scale initiative working with Surfers Against Sewage on their beach cleans. ‘So far I’ve made a life-size leatherback turtle, life-size seal and life-size bottlenose dolphin, but it is ongoing,’ she explains. ‘The piece with the most personal significance for me is the prototype dolphin I made, as it was the start of all the larger ghost gear work and has been the inspiration for bigger projects. My dad designed the frame with me and he has recently passed away, so it also has an emotional meaning for me.’

Win a night away at Coast B&B! Coast is offering a fabulous prize to one lucky reader and a guest. Enjoy a one-night stay at Coast B&B, plus a complimentary evening meal at The Bean Inn (dates of stay are subject to availability; travel expenses and drinks not included). To enter, go to www.vegetarianliving.co.uk. Competition closes midday 1 September 2016.

find out more See Katrina’s work on display at the Wild Planet gallery at Coast B&B and galleries including Blue Bramble, Uys Gallery and Blue Mist Gallery in St Ives, and Four Crows in Porthleven. Her work will also be featured in the Trail 2016 outdoor recycled art exhibition along Teignmouth seafront in Devon, until September. Visit her website and Facebook page for details of art and beachcombing weekends next year. www.katrinaslack.co.uk

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Walnutstuffed aubergine rolls page 71

cooking for a crowd Treat your friends to Meera Sodhal’s lighter, fresher Indian supper menu or tempting dishes from Uzbekistan’s culinary melting pot.

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Fresh & fabulous For a light and contemporary approach to Indian cooking, you can’t beat Meera Sodhal’s easy, vibrant menu that’s a world away from your local takeaway fare.

Baked onion bhajis These are a step forward from the deep-fried favourites: they are healthier, more pleasant to cook, and just as tasty. I like to serve these with a fresh coriander or mango chutney, or beetroot raita. Makes 24 | Prep 15 mins Cook 50 mins 3cm ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 1 green finger chilli, chopped 2 tsp cumin seeds
 salt
 1kg brown onions 4 tbsp rapeseed oil 180g chickpea (gram) flour 40g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
 ½ tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/ gas 4 and line 2 baking trays with lightly oiled foil. Put the ginger, green chilli and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar along with a small pinch of salt, bash to a coarse paste and leave to one side. 2 Peel and halve the onions, then slice them into 0.5cm half-moon shapes. Put the oil into a large frying pan over a medium heat and, when hot, add the onions. Fry for around 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they’re translucent and just soft enough to cut with a wooden spoon. 3 Put the onions into a bowl and add the ginger, green chilli and cumin paste, along with the chickpea flour, fresh coriander, chilli powder, ground coriander, turmeric, lemon juice and 1½ teaspoons of salt. Mix together thoroughly and, little by little, add up to 30ml of water, until you have a very thick batter.

Baked onion bhajis photographY: David Loftus

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Indiansupper 4 Take a tablespoon of the mixture and drop it on to a tray. Repeat with the rest of the mix, leaving a couple of centimetres between each bhaji. 5 Bake for 25–35 minutes, until the bhajis start to crisp up and brown on top. Remove from the oven – you may need to gently lever them off the foil using a palette knife – and place on a plate alongside some chutney before devouring. n Per Bhaji 58 cals, fat 2.4g, sat fat 0.2g, carbs 7g, sugars 2.7g, protein 2.2g, salt 0.3g, fibre 2.1g

‘My aim is not to preach or to write only for vegetarians: it is to inspire you to cook a different, fresher, vegetable-led type of Indian food. To honour the seasons and what grows in our fields, and also to celebrate the way that hundreds of millions of Indians eat, and the Gujarati way of thinking’

Aubergine fesenjan The first time I met my husband was in his kitchen. He was standing amid a mountain of empty pomegranate shells and the kitchen looked like a crime scene, with red juice splattered up the walls. He wanted to impress me with this fesenjan, a dish that was often found on the tables of Indian Mughal emperors in the 1500s and 1600s but originally from Persia. Luckily, these days you can buy pomegranate molasses – which is what I told him (and it broke the ice). We got married last summer and now cook this dish together with good memories and much less mess. Serves 4 | Prep 20 mins | Cook 25 mins 120g walnuts 4 medium aubergines (about 1.2kg) rapeseed oil salt and ground black pepper 2 large red onions, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1½ tbsp honey ¾ tsp chilli powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 250ml hot vegetable stock seeds from 1 pomegranate handful of fresh coriander 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6 and line a large baking tray with lightly oiled foil. Blitz the walnuts in a food processor to a fine crumb and leave to one side. 2 Cut the aubergines into 5cm x 2cm batons, toss with oil, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and roast on the baking tray for 25 minutes or until meltingly soft. 3 While the aubergines are roasting, make the fesenjan sauce. Put

Aubergine fesenjan

3 tablespoons of oil into a large frying pan over a medium heat and, when hot, add the red onions. Fry for 12 minutes, stirring regularly to ensure they don’t burn, then add the garlic and fry for a further 3 minutes. 4 Add the honey, chilli powder, cinnamon, ½ teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of black pepper, the blitzed walnuts and the pomegranate molasses to the pan, and stir thoroughly to mix. Then add the

hot vegetable stock and cook for around 8 minutes, until the sauce comes together. 5 When the aubergines are tender, pour the sauce into a serving dish. Put the aubergines on top, and scatter with the pomegranate seeds and coriander. Serve alongside steamed basmati rice. n Per serving 407 cals, fat 27.8g, sat fat 2.9g, carbs 32.3g, sugars 30.2g, protein 9g, salt 2g, fibre 13.5g www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Indiansupper

Fennel and apple chaat with caramelised almonds This crisp and clean bunch of ingredients, mixed with some warming sweet spices, works together as tightly as the rhythm section of James Brown’s funk band. Serves 4 as a side | Prep/cook 30 mins 1 tsp fennel seeds
 5 tbsp rapeseed oil 100g flaked almonds
 1 tsp ground ginger
 2 tbsp honey
 salt
 1 lemon, plus 2 tbsp lemon juice
 2 medium bulbs fennel 3 Braeburn apples
 ½ cucumber
 10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 1¼ tsp garam masala 1 Grab a pestle and mortar, and bash the fennel seeds until they’re coarsely ground. 2 Next, put a couple of tablespoons of oil into a frying pan over a medium heat. When

hot, add the almonds, stir-fry for a couple of minutes until they turn pale gold, then add the ground fennel seeds, ginger, honey and 1/3 teaspoon of salt. Stir-fry for another minute until caramelised. Carefully tip on to a plate and leave to cool. 3 To make the salad, fill a big bowl with cold water. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice into the water, then chuck in the lemon halves, to stop the fennel and apple discolouring. Very finely slice (or shave on a mandolin) the fennel and put it into the lemony water. Slice the apples thinly and add them to the bowl. Cut the cucumber in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon, then slice it thinly and keep to one side. 4 Drain the fennel and apple really well, discard the lemon halves, and put the mixture into a serving bowl along with the cucumber and mint.

5 To make the dressing, mix together 3 tablespoons of oil with the 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, garam masala and ½ teaspoon of salt. Crumble the caramelised almonds into the salad and pour over the dressing just before serving. Toss together using your hands or a pair of tongs, then serve. n Per serving 390 cals, fat 29.1g, sat fat 2.1g, carbs 24.5g, sugars 22.9g, protein 7.7g, salt 1g, fibre 3.8g

Recipes adapted from Fresh India: 130 quick, easy and delicious vegetarian recipes for every day by Meerha Sodha (Fig Tree, £20). Photography by David Loftus.

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photographY: Laura Edwards

Walnutstuffed aubergine rolls

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Globalflavours

A shared table

The beautiful and ancient city of Samarkand in Uzbekistan has been a melting pot of diverse culinary traditions for hundreds of years. Give your friends and family a taste of the exotic with this menu of dishes inspired by the cuisine of central Asia and the Caucasus.

Walnut-stuffed aubergine rolls All over the Caucasus, people traditionally stuff aubergines with walnuts and pomegranate seeds to be pickled and preserved for the long winter months. This is a fresh version of the Georgian dish badrijani nigvzit, using grilled aubergines instead, but with the same flavours. Try to use narrow aubergines, rather than bulbous ones, to give you long slices for rolling. Serves 4 | Prep 25 mins | Cook 20 mins 2 medium aubergines For the stuffing: 200g shelled walnuts seeds of ½ pomegranate 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves 1 small clove garlic, crushed 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely sliced 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing juice of 1 lemon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper pomegranate molasses, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/ gas 4. Spread the walnuts out on a baking tray and toast in the oven for 5–10 minutes, until golden. Tip them on to a clean tea towel and rub off and discard the skins. Leave to cool. 2 Make the stuffing by pounding the walnuts into a rubble using a pestle and mortar. Stir in the pomegranate seeds, coriander, garlic and chilli. Slacken the mixture with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the lemon juice and season with salt. Set aside for the flavours to meld.

3 Preheat a ridged griddle pan until really hot. Remove the stem from the aubergines and carefully cut each lengthways into slices less than 1cm thick. Discard the skin-side slices. Brush each slice generously with olive oil on both sides and season. Lay a few slices on the hot griddle and cook until completely soft and charred on both sides. Set aside while you cook the remaining batches. 4 Spread the aubergine slices with the walnut stuffing and roll into cylinders. You can use cocktail sticks to keep the rolls together. Serve at room temperature, drizzled with pomegranate molasses. n Per serving 480 cals, fat 43.2g, sat fat 5.1g, carbs 13.7g, sugars 13g, protein 9.4g, salt 1g, fibre 7.4g

with 2 pieces of kitchen paper and set it in a shallow dish. 2 Pour in the yogurt and tie the muslin at the top to form a tight bundle (or cover the colander with clingfilm) and leave in a cool place for 24–36 hours for the liquid to drain off and the yogurt to thicken. Discard the liquid. 3 You can either eat the suzma as it is, or flavour it in one of the following ways. For green suzma, finely chop the white and green parts of 4 spring onions, and a small bunch each of coriander, dill and flat-leaf parsley. Stir through the suzma and add salt and pepper. To make white suzma, stir in 1 crushed clove of garlic and 1 teaspoon of finely chopped dill. Season with salt and pepper. For pink suzma, blend 2 cooked beetroot until smooth. Stir into the suzma with 1 teaspoon of sugar. Season with salt and pepper.

Suzma Central Asia has vast flat plains, including the world’s largest steppe region, ‘the Great Steppe’, as well as mountain regions. This expanse of grassland is renowned for its rich, smooth dairy products made from cow, goat, sheep, horse and even camel milk. Suzma is a tangy yogurt cheese which is spooned into soups, mixed into salads or eaten with bread and fresh tomatoes as a simple meal (in the Middle East the same cheese is known as labneh). 500g full-fat Greek yogurt salt 1 Start a day or two before you want to serve. Season the yogurt with a generous pinch of salt. Hang a muslin bag over a bowl, or line a colander

Suzma

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Globalflavours

Buckwheat kasha with caramelised mushrooms

Buckwheat kasha with caramelised mushrooms Healthy kasha is the foundation of Russian cuisine. It is best described as a porridge, usually made from toasted buckwheat. It can be sweet or savoury and used to be made in huge clay pots all over the Russian countryside. Gluten-free and insanely good for you, children are told, ‘eat your kasha and you will grow up to be as strong as Bogatyr’ (Bogatyr being a folk hero similar to a knight). Kasha has a strong, nutty, almost bitter taste, so it stands up well to other robust

flavours. Here, the meaty mushrooms and sweetness from the onion make it ideal for a healthy lunch or side dish. Make more than you need as it keeps well in the fridge for a few days and is just as good cold. Serves 6 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 25 mins 175g buckwheat groats 3 knobs of butter drizzle of sunflower oil 500ml hot vegetable stock 2 onions, chopped 250g chestnut mushrooms, sliced handful of dill fronds, chopped

handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper soured cream, to serve 1 Unless you have bought toasted buckwheat, toast it first: heat a small knob of the butter and a slick of oil in a saucepan and toast the buckwheat until golden and fragrant. 2 Meanwhile, bring the stock to the boil. Pour the hot stock over the buckwheat – carefully as it will splutter. Season, turn the heat to low

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and cover the pan. Cook for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat. Lightly fluff the grains with a fork, then replace the lid and leave to steam, off the heat, for another 5 minutes. 3 While the buckwheat is cooking, heat a large knob of butter and another slick of oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until very well softened and starting to turn golden, about 15 minutes. Add the mushrooms and stir often. At first they will give out water, but keep cooking until this has evaporated and the mushrooms and onions are well caramelised. Season with salt, pepper and stir in the fresh herbs. 4 Finally, toss through the buckwheat and allow to warm through with another knob of butter. Serve with soured cream. n Per serving 192 cals, fat 8g, sat fat 3.4g, carbs 26.3g, sugars 4.1g, protein 5.4g, salt 2.3g, fibre 2.7g

Roasted peaches with marzipan and rose syrup Throughout the Caucasus, dried peaches stuffed with a sticky, sweet filling of walnut, almond or pistachio marzipan are a popular street snack. Here fresh peaches get the same treatment before being bathed in rosescented syrup. Serves 6 | Prep 25 mins | Cook 30 mins 3 ripe peaches, halved and stoned 40g sugar 3 tsp rosewater squeeze of lemon 50g ground almonds 40g icing sugar 2 tsp flaked almonds Greek yogurt, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Snuggly pack the peach halves, cut-side up, into an ovenproof dish. 2 Dissolve the sugar in 40ml water over a medium heat, then add 2 teaspoons of the rosewater. Taste as rose concentrations vary hugely, so you may want to stop there or add a little more to make a subtly perfumed syrup. Sharpen with a squeeze of lemon and pour over the peaches. 3 Pulse the ground almonds, icing sugar and 1 teaspoon of the rosewater in a food processor, until the mixture comes together into a paste. Roll into 6 balls and stuff into each peach half. Scatter over the flaked almonds. 4 Roast for 30 minutes, or until the peaches are tender and slightly caramelised. If they are browning too fast, cover them with foil

Roasted peaches with marzipan and rose syrup

partway through cooking. Serve hot or at room temperature with thick Greek yogurt. n Per serving 182 cals, fat 9.6g, sat fat 2.5g, carbs 19.5g, sugars 19.1g, protein 4.7g, salt 0.1g, fibre 1.1g

Serve this vegan dessert with a plain soya yogurt on the side.

Recipes adapted from Samarkand by Caroline Eden and Eleanor Ford (Kyle Books, ÂŁ25). Photography by Laura Edwards. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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A bit on the side Using late-summer gluts, Sarah Beattie shows how gorgeously glossy aubergines are perfect for pickling and preserving, providing a special addition to the dining table when entertaining.

about Sarah A Vegetarian Living regular, Sarah is the author of seven cookbooks. She has been vegetarian since she was 17 and revels in the pleasure of good food through the alchemy of cooking. She has appeared on BBC Food & Drink, This Morning and Woman’s Hour and has been shortlisted for the prestigious Guild of Food Writers Cookery Journalist of the Year award in 2013 and 2015. Follow on Twitter @sarahbeattiegra

Photograph: LilliRu

As summer ends, gluts of the garden’s richest fruits begin: tomatoes, peppers and aubergines. Whether you grow them yourself or buy them at reduced prices, it’s worth making the most of the bounty now. Aubergines are so beautiful, from their lovely lilac coloured flowers and big floppy leaves to their gorgeous glossy fruit. Round

and fat, long and slender, dark purple, white or striped, even small and green, the aubergine is glamorous. It can take starring roles – in Italian melanzana Siciliana (where fried slices are layered with mozzarella and covered with tomato before baking) or baba ghanoush (where baked aubergine is mashed with garlic and tahini for a Middle Eastern dip), or as an essential supporting cast in ratatouille or caponata, both fragrant Mediterranean vegetable stews. Belonging to the same plant family as tomatoes and potatoes, aubergines originated in Southeast Asia but now they are used all over the world. In Thailand, the ‘pea’ aubergine is put in curries for a crunch and to add a bitter note; in India, aubergine, known as brinjal, is prized for its silky texture and its ability to hold the flavour of the spices; and in Egypt, much of the Middle East and, of course, Greece, variants of moussaka would not be complete without its aubergine layers. Involtini – lengthwise slices of aubergines, rolled around a stuffing – can be found in Italy or on mezze or tapas tables; aubergine, sliced and fried, and dressed with honey and nuts, is enjoyed in Spain and on the opposite

side of the Med; you’ll find imam bayildi in Turkey, a classic dish of stuffed and stewed aubergines; while a Provençal tian – sliced aubergines, courgettes, tomatoes, onions and peppers, set on their edges in a large baking dish, with olive oil and herbs – is an easy way to feed a crowd. In our house, crisp cubes of fried or roasted aubergine, topped with yogurt and garlic is a favourite, as well as the wonderful flavour of small egg-sized aubergines smoked on the barbecue, after they’ve been scored and marinated using a curry paste or a spice mix like chermoula with a little oil and lemon. Aubergine, like tomato, can also be made into preserves, both sweet and savoury. Buy an extra kilo of aubergines and try both of these recipes: they are quite different. The ‘jam’ is actually reminiscent of Greek ‘spoon fruits’; a similar method is used in Turkey for pumpkin, which is served for dessert with a spoon of kaymak (Turkish clotted cream). It’s good on toast or bread and butter too, or served on a cheesecake. The brinjal pickle is so delicious you might need to double or quadruple the recipe – serve it with curries and dhals, but also with cheese or egg dishes.

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photograph: Sarah Beattie 2016

Gettogether

Turkish aubergine jam Makes 2 x 450ml jars Prep 15 mins + steeping overnight Cook 20 mins 500g aubergine, peeled and cut into chunks 1 lemon 6 cloves 450g sugar 400ml boiling water 1 Cook the aubergine for 10 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain well. 2 Wash the lemon and press the cloves into the skin. Put in a pan with the sugar. Pour over the boiling water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add the drained cooked aubergine and stir until well mixed. Cool and leave overnight.

3 Wash and warm two jars. Bring the mixture to the boil and boil steadily to 105C. The aubergine will become almost translucent and the liquid thick and syrupy. 4 Gently press the lemon with the back of a spoon and then remove and discard, before potting the aubergine in the jars. Seal and cool before labelling and storing in a dark, dry, cool place.

Brinjal hot sweet pickle Makes 2 x 450ml jars | Prep 10 mins Cook 20 mins 4 small dried red chillies 1 tsp turmeric 2 tsp freshly grated ginger 4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 70ml sesame, coconut or vegetable oil 3 long green chillies, cut into chunks 500g aubergine, cut into chunks 200ml vinegar (I used cider vinegar) 250g sugar 1 Wash and warm two 250ml jars. 2 Using a mortar and pestle, grind the dried red chillies, turmeric, ginger, garlic and seeds together to make a thick paste. 3 Heat the oil and fry the paste for a minute. Add the green chilli and aubergine and fry, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and sugar, stir occasionally and cook until thick. 4 Pot in the warmed jars. Seal, cool and store as above.

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Something for everyone

Photograph: Maria Brinkop

Kids will love our finger food recipes for meals you can pick up and eat, plus Chava’s gluten-free menu made without specialist foods.

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Fastfood

Get hands-on!

Make fuss-free family food with these tasty wraps, burgers and pastry pockets that are quick to make and even easier to eat – no cutlery required!

Mango salsa and quinoa wrap

Mango salsa and quinoa wrap

Makes 6 | Prep/cook 45 mins 

1 Prepare the quinoa according to the instructions on the packet. 2 Squeeze the lime. Peel the mango. Remove the flesh from around the stone and cut into small pieces. Peel and finely chop the onion. Wash and dice the tomato. Wash, shake dry and finely chop the coriander. Combine everything with the quinoa, olive oil and lime juice, and season with salt and pepper.  3 Warm the tortillas for a few minutes in the oven. 4 Mix the crème fraîche with the feta and milk until smooth. Separate the lettuce leaves, then wash and shake dry. Line the tortillas with a few lettuce leaves. Spread with the feta cream and cover with 2–3 tablespoons of the mango salsa and quinoa mixture. Roll them up and serve.  COOK’S TIP If you want this hot and spicy, you can put some hot pepper and chilli sauce over the mango salsa. The mango salsa with quinoa also makes a great side salad.  n Per wrap 370 cals, fat 19g, sat fat 10.7g, carbs 39.9g, sugars 9.7g, protein 10.3g, salt 2.1g, fibre 5.1g

photographY: Maria Brinkop

125g quinoa  ½ lime  1 mango  1 red onion  1 tomato  1 small handful of fresh coriander  1 tbsp olive oil  salt and freshly ground pepper  6 wheat tortillas 150g crème fraîche  100g vegetarian feta cheese  4 tbsp milk  ½ head of iceberg lettuce

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Mushroom and walnut burger Makes 2 | Prep/cook 30 mins 50g shelled walnuts 1 onion 1 clove garlic 250g chestnut mushrooms 3 tbsp olive oil 50g vegetarian Gorgonzolastyle cheese 100g smetana or sour cream 1 ripe pear ½ bunch of parsley 100g dry breadcrumbs 1 free-range egg, beaten salt and freshly ground pepper 2 burger buns a few radicchio leaves

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1 Toast the walnuts in a dry frying pan. Set aside. 2 Peel and finely chop the onion and garlic. Clean the mushrooms and finely chop in a blender. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan. Sweat the garlic and onion, before adding the chopped mushrooms and browning for 10 minutes. 3 Heat the cheese and smetana in a pan, stirring from time to time. 4 Wash, halve, core and thinly slice the pear. 5 Wash and shake dry the parsley, and then finely chop with the walnuts in a blender. Blend with the mushroom mixture, breadcrumbs and egg, and season with salt and pepper. Shape into 2 large patties. Heat the rest of the oil in a frying pan. Fry the patties on both sides until crispy.  6 Cut the buns in half across the middle and toast for a few minutes under the grill. Wash and shake dry the radicchio leaves. Place one patty, some radicchio and pear slices on the bottom half of each bun and drizzle with Gorgonzola sauce. Cover with the top half and serve.  n Per burger 887 cals, fat 56g, sat fat 16.4g, carbs 69.9g, sugars 19.7g, protein 26.8g, salt 3g, fibre 11.2g

13/07/2016 16:18


Fastfood Aubergine and ricotta pockets

Aubergine and ricotta pockets

Makes 4 | Prep 20 mins Cook 50 mins 1 quantity all-purpose dough (see recipe, below) 2 aubergines salt 1 onion 1 clove garlic 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp harissa paste  1 tbsp tomato purée 1 small handful of basil leaves 1 tbsp mint leaves  1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley leaves 100g ricotta cheese freshly ground pepper  1 tsp coarse sea salt 1 Divide the dough into 4 pieces and roll each one out into an oval. Lay the pieces on 2 baking trays lined with parchment paper and leave in a warm place. Preheat the oven to 240C/fan 220C/gas 9. 2 Wash and dice the aubergines, and then mix with 2 teaspoons of salt in a sieve. Peel and finely chop the onion and garlic.  3 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a pan. Sweat the onion and garlic. Fry the harissa with the tomato purée. Add the aubergine and fry for 2 minutes while stirring constantly. Cook on a low heat for 30 minutes, stirring from time to time.  4 Wash and shake dry the basil, mint and parsley leaves. Coarsely purée together with the aubergine mixture. Incorporate the cheese and season with salt and pepper. 5 Spread the mixture over the centre of the dough ovals. Position the ovals with the short side towards you, then fold up the long side. Brush with the rest of the oil and sprinkle over with sea salt. Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown, and serve immediately.  COOK’S TIP Prepare your dough in advance to make this dish quicker to make on busy weeknights. Any leftover filling will make an excellent sauce for a serving of pasta. n Per pocket 439 cals, fat 21.5g, sat fat 4.6g, carbs 50.2g, sugars 8.3g, protein 12.9g, salt 4.3g, fibre 12.4g

All-purpose dough One dough for practically everything? Of course! Whether it’s for tarte flambée, pizza or pittas, this recipe can be used for all of them. And the dough is proved when it cooks in the oven, so you save valuable time. ½ cube fresh yeast 250g wheat flour

½ tsp raw cane sugar 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp olive oil Crumble the yeast into a measuring cup with 125ml lukewarm water and stir well. Combine the flour, sugar, salt, olive oil and dissolved yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Start mixing on low speed, and then gradually increase the speed to the highest setting until a smooth and even dough forms. Alternatively, knead the dough by hand. COOK’S TIP The dough can be made in large quantities and frozen. Simply put the proved dough into a freezer bag and into the freezer. It should keep for up to 6 months. When needed, leave it to thaw and rise overnight in the refrigerator or a covered bowl.

Recipes adapted from Veggie Fast Food by Clarissa and Florian Sehn (Grub Street, £12.99). Photography by Maria Brinkop.

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This month, Chava explores the effects of coeliac disease, creating delicious recipes that are naturally gluten-free using ‘real’ food and no expensive specialist ingredients. Have you ever walked past overpriced gluten-free offerings in the shops and wondered how much of this gluten-free business is just a bit of a fad? A coeliac friend of ours introduced me to her daily struggle and I was shocked by my own ignorance about this disease. There is a huge amount of misinformation and misconception out there. Some people are gluten-intolerant, others have a wheat allergy and the last group are those with the autoimmune disorder called coeliac disease. What I had never fully considered were the difficulties people face – whether it’s finding reasonably priced groceries, going out for a meal or receiving a dreaded invitation for a buffet meal. I decided to do some proper research, partly because I wanted to get a clearer understanding of the facts, but it was also because I felt completely out of my depth when it comes to gluten-free cooking. I want to be able to offer some ‘real food’ when my friend comes to visit – not another pack of gluten-free crackers! So, to help put things straight: coeliac disease is not a rare occurrence; it affects 1 in 100 people in the UK, many of whom have not been properly diagnosed yet. It’s still not clear what triggers the body’s reaction to the gluten protein, which is found in wheat, barley, rye and potentially oats. Just imagine life without the joy of fresh toast, pizza or a steaming bowl of porridge! Even a single breadcrumb could make a coeliac person feel ill for days, which is why they are so keen to avoid the risky ‘cross-contamination’ business when eating out. Apart from following a strict gluten-free diet for life, there really is no other way to manage the disease. For those with intolerances or allergies the price of a bit of fresh, crusty bread is simply not worth paying either – including headaches, nausea and digestive problems, to name just a few side effects. This month’s recipes are all ‘naturally’ gluten-free – and of course tried and tested by my kids too. Of the various gluten-free grains, I opted for quinoa in the salad as it’s quick to cook with the added bonus of being rich in protein too. l For more info about all things gluten-free, visit www.coeliac.org.uk.

Pea and lettuce soup

Pea and lettuce soup My partner’s mum has always loved this delicately flavoured soup and when I finally made it myself I could see why. She always uses whole pea pods, which gives lots of tasty nutrients and minimises food waste. However, you do need to have a strong blender. A stick blender wouldn’t quite do the job – in that case, opt for shelled peas instead. Serves 4 | Prep 5 mins Cook 20 mins (or less with frozen peas) olive oil, to fry 1 onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 175g fresh pea pods or frozen peas 750ml vegetable stock (gluten-free) 175g round lettuce, roughly chopped salt and black pepper dairy-free soya cream fresh mint, to serve 1 Heat a little olive oil and sauté the onion until softened. Add the crushed garlic and whole pea pods.

2 Stir for a couple of minutes, then add the vegetable stock and simmer gently for 10 minutes. (If you are using frozen peas they will only need a couple of minutes.) 3 Add the lettuce and stir the soup until the leaves have wilted. Blend the soup until smooth. (With a high-speed blender, it’s important that you let the soup cool down before blending.) 4 Season to taste and serve with a swirl of cream, a few mint leaves and a grinding of black pepper. n Per serving 119 cals, fat 8.8g, sat fat 2.1g, carbs 8.5g, sugars 5.4g, protein 4.7g, salt 3.7g, fibre 3.9g

Quinoa salad with balsamic roasted veggies Roasted vegetables are such an easy thing to prepare and once they’re in the oven you will only need to check on them a couple of times. The balsamic vinegar gives a slightly sweet, tangy flavour which works really well. We love

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Familyfare

ABOUT CHAVA Chava Eichner is a freelance food writer and photographer who passionately creates for many meat-free companies and organisations like Viva! and the Vegetarian Society, among others. She lives in the Cotswolds with her partner David and two young boys, Sam (9) and Alex (6). Visit her website and blog to find more mouth-watering food inspiration at www.flavourphotos.com. Follow on Twitter @flavourphotos

Rice pudding with pear and cinnamon compote

Quinoa salad with balsamic roasted veggies

these roasted veggies in salads, sandwich fillings and on top of jacket potatoes too, and the quinoa salad is a great addition to a barbecue or picnic – just right for making the most of the summer! Serves 4 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 35 mins 1 red onion, cut into wedges 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into bite-sized pieces 1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into bite-sized pieces 1 aubergine, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 courgette, cut into bite-sized pieces 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar sea salt and black pepper sprig of rosemary 150g quinoa green leaves, such as watercress or rocket For the dressing: ½ red onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tsp soy sauce 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Place the onion, pepper, aubergine and courgette on a large baking tray and drizzle with the oil and vinegar. Season with salt, pepper and rosemary. Roast for 35 minutes, turning the veggies a couple of times to make sure they are evenly cooked. 2 While the vegetables are roasting, cook the quinoa in boiling water according to the packet instructions. I added some gluten-

free stock to give extra flavour to the quinoa. Once cooked, drain and set aside. 3 For the dressing, combine the onion, olive oil, vinegar and soy sauce. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 4 To make the salad, mix the quinoa, roasted vegetables and dressing in a large bowl. Stir in a large handful of rocket or watercress and adjust the seasoning. n Per serving 288 cals, fat 13.7g, sat fat 2g, carbs 33.7g, sugars 14.8g, protein 8.2g, salt 1.3g, fibre 8.5g

Rice pudding with pear and cinnamon compote I’ve recently discovered flaked pudding rice. It’s perfect for quick family meals as you can reduce the cooking time so much compared to traditional pudding rice, and you still get the comforting deliciousness of this traditional dessert. Serves 4 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 10 mins For the pudding: ½ vanilla pod, seeds removed 100g flaked pudding rice 850ml dairy-free milk 1 apple, grated 30g sugar, or more to taste For the sauce: 410g can pears in juice, drained 6 dates 1 tsp cinnamon a few pecan nuts and agave nectar, to serve

1 Combine the vanilla seeds, rice, milk and apple in a pan. Bring to a gentle boil, then simmer for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the rice is cooked through, stir in the sugar. Adjust the sweetness to taste. 2 To make the sauce, blend the pears, dates and cinnamon in a strong blender until you have a completely smooth purée. 3 Divide the pear purée between 4 heatproof glasses or bowls and layer with the rice. Drizzle some agave nectar over the top and decorate with a few pecan nuts. Cook’s tip If you don’t have a strong blender to purée the dates, sweeten the pear mixture with brown sugar instead. n Per serving 416 cals, fat 14.4g, sat fat 1.5g, carbs 63.2g, sugars 42.2g, protein 9.4g, salt 0.1g, fibre 5.7g www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Photograph: Jackie clarke

Outdoor fun

veg LIVING LOVES Campfire cooking

help

Save our seaside If you’ve enjoyed a trip to the coast this summer, be inspired to do your bit to help keep our beaches clean and safe by joining in the Marine Conservation Society’s Great British Beach Clean on 16–19 September. The charity organises events throughout the year, but the Great British Beach Clean is the flagship annual event, designed to raise awareness of litter and pollution on our beaches and to get everyone involved in keeping them pleasant and safe for both wildlife and people.

All you have to do to get involved is visit the Marine Conservation Society’s website and register as a volunteer. You can also organise and register your own event at any time of year at your favourite beach. l Find out more at www.mcsuk.org.

Oat cuisine

Freezer oaty bars

Make these and keep them in the freezer for unexpected guests, or for when you just fancy a little sweet something. Eat them straight from the freezer or leave them to thaw. Using peanut butter instead of butter means less calories, lower fat and higher protein levels, making this recipe a healthier snack.

cook

Turn to page 60 to read our interview with Katrina Slack, who uses beach litter to make artworks with an eco message

Makes 24 | Prep 20 mins + chilling 225g jumbo rolled oats 50g almonds, skin-on 60g mixed seeds 60g dried cranberries 50g Coco Pops or rice pops 100g agave nectar 100g peanut butter 125g honey 1 Lightly grease a 33 x 23 x 3cm deep baking tray, then line it with cling film. 2 Place the oats and almonds into a food processor and blitz for 10–20 seconds until fairly well broken down – you want chunks for texture but if they are too large they won’t stick together. Pulse the mixture again until slightly powdery. Tip into a bowl then add the seeds, cranberries and cereal, and stir the mixture really well. 3 Set aside, then place the agave, peanut butter and honey into a small saucepan and melt together over a medium heat. Pour this over the oat mixture then mix well with a

If you’ve never built a campfire and toasted marshmallows, it’s one of the defining childhood activities they’ll never forget. September is the perfect time to have a go – just make sure you choose veggie or vegan marshmallows! Freedom Mallows come in both strawberry and vanilla flavours and are completely free of gelatin, gluten, nuts, soya, egg, dairy and artificial colourings and flavourings, making them a delicious treat to be enjoyed by all. l £2.49 for a 75g pack from Holland & Barrett, or visit Freedom Mallows online at www.freedommallows.com.

spoon. Leave to cool slightly, then mix with your hands to make sure all the oats are coated in the peanut butter mixture. 4 Tip into the tray and spread out evenly. Lay a sheet of cling film over the top, then press down firmly to squish the mixture flat. Place in the freezer for 1 hour until set. 5 Remove the top layer of cling film, then tip out on to a board, remove the remaining cling film and cut into 24 bars. To store, layer up the bars between sheets of greaseproof paper and place in a sealed box in the fridge. They can also be kept in the freezer. n Per BAR 130 cals, fat 5.3g, sat fat 0.9g, carbs 17.6g, sugars 9.6g, protein 3.2g, salt 0.1g, fibre 1.3g

Recipe adapted from Eat Well for Less: 80 recipes for healthy family meals from the hit BBC One series by Jo ScarrattJones, foreword by Gregg Wallace and Chris Bavin (BBC Books, £14.99).

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Littlelife

photograph: National Trust Images Rob Stothard

What could be more fun than picking wild fruit to make your own smoothies? Blackberries are in abundance now – all you need is a plastic container and a pair of long sleeves to avoid getting scratched by brambles. Eat your berries within 2-3 days, or freeze on a tray and bag ready to use later. Add a handful, fresh or frozen, to a blender with plain yogurt, a banana, a dash of apple juice and a drizzle of honey for a really tasty breakfast drink.

He may have had a rather unusual name, but Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown was one of this country’s most famous garden designers. This year is the 300th anniversary of his birth, and there are lots of events planned to celebrate. Wallington in Northumberland has devised the brilliant family-friendly Blackett’s Grand Design Challenge, inviting children to see how ‘capable’ they are by following a trail and deciding how they would redesign the landscape for Sir Walter Calverley Blackett. With top tips from Capability Brown, will you get the job as Blackett’s new landscape designer?  l For a complete guide to Capability Brown anniversary events, go to www.capabilitybrown.org.

photograph: National Trust Images – Arnhel

Forage your own smoothie

de serra

Discover a famous gardener

GO! Five fab things to do in september

Step back in time

Experience outdoor theatre

National Trust property Tyntesfield, Bristol, is hosting a performance of Peter Pan from Chapterhouse Theatre Company on 3 September. Join Wendy, Michael and John on their adventures with the boy who never grew up, on the magical island of Neverland, where they encounter enchanting mermaids and fairies, and the cruellest pirate of them all, Captain Hook. J.M. Barrie’s timeless classic is brought to life in a brand new adaptation by award-winning writer Laura Turner, with original music, songs, and beautifully designed costumes. l Book tickets at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/tyntesfield.

Experience life as it was during World War II at the Avon Valley Railway 1940s weekend (24–25 September). Bitton Station will come to life with a little vintage glamour – featuring live music in the Victory Tent and traditional Punch and Judy shows, an old-fashioned sweet shop and vintage bus rides for the children. You may even get a glimpse of Winston Churchill or King George VI arriving by train! Visitors are encouraged to dress up and collect their National Registration Cards for a real taste of 1940s Britain. l Find out more and buy train tickets online at www.avonvalleyrailway.org.

Watch the birdie!

With autumn on the way, now is a great time to set up a bird feeder in your garden. This fun feeder is perfect for putting out sunflower seeds or peanuts. Choose black sunflower seeds as these have a higher oil content and are suitable as a year-round food for lots of birds; peanuts are rich in fat and loved by tits, greenfinches, house sparrows, nuthatches and great spotted woodpeckers. Have fun identifying the birds who come to visit, using the RSPB’s online bird identifier at www.rspb.org. uk/wildlife/birdidentifier. l Chapelwood ‘Little Owl’ feeder, £8.99 from garden centres. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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photograph: Issy Crocker

Pomegranate labneh with baby leeks, lentils and rice page 90

mindful meals Assemble a tasty and nutritious Buddha bowl – the perfect solution for a one-portion supper.

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Miso aubergine with crispy shallots and tofu almond cream

Super bowls

Cultures all over the world have their own traditional bowl-based recipes. An increasingly popular way to assemble a nourishing meal, enjoy experimenting with different combinations of ingredients to create a flavourful feast for all the senses.

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Healthyeating photographY: Issy Crocker

Miso aubergine with crispy shallots and tofu almond cream Serves 1 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 20 mins 100g white miso 55g coconut sugar 2 tbsp sake 2 tbsp mirin 1 aubergine olive oil, for roasting 2 shallots 55g long-grain or brown rice 55g smoked (or regular) soft tofu almond milk, for blending handful of pea shoots, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 230C/fan 210C/ gas 8. Mix the miso, coconut sugar, sake and mirin in a large pan and heat for a few minutes. Slice the aubergine into 3cm-thick discs and toss in a bowl with a good glug of olive oil. 2 Spread the slices out over a baking tray, brush generously with the miso mixture and roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes, turning the slices over halfway through and brushing the other side with the miso, until a rich golden colour and soft in the middle. 3 Finely slice a couple of shallots and spread out over a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil and roast in the hot oven alongside the aubergine for 20 minutes, until golden and crispy. 4 Cook the rice according to the instructions on the packet. 5 Blend the tofu with a little almond milk until creamy. Spoon into a small bowl. 6 To assemble, put the miso aubergine in a bowl and add the crispy shallots. Dollop over some tofu almond cream, top with pea shoots and serve with the rice. n Per serving 891 cals, fat 22.3g, sat fat 2.4g, carbs 135.8g, sugars 70.9g, protein 27.1g, salt 9.2g, fibre 12.6g

Red lentil hummus with baked sweet potato Serves 1 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 55 mins 1 tbsp camomile flowers (loose tea) 1 sweet potato knob of butter 1 tbsp runny honey 100g dried red split lentils 1 small clove garlic, crushed juice of 1 small lemon

Red lentil hummus with baked sweet potato

1 tbsp tahini ¼ tsp sea salt 1 red pepper ½ red chilli pepper handful of watercress sprinkle of yeast flakes extra-virgin olive oil, to drizzle 1 Preheat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/ gas 5. Spread the camomile over the base of a small roasting dish and place the scrubbed sweet potato in the dish. Add water to come a third of the way up the potato, cover with foil and bake for about 45 minutes or until you can pierce the potato easily with a sharp knife. Remove from the oven and turn the oven up to 230C/fan 210C/gas 8. 2 Carefully halve the sweet potato lengthways and transfer to an ovenproof griddle pan or skillet. Dot a little butter on top, then drizzle over the honey. Roast in the hot oven for 10 minutes, basting halfway through.

Allow the potato to cool a little before cutting into wedges. 3 Cook the lentils in water and drain. When cool, add to a food processor and pulse until quite smooth before adding the garlic, lemon juice, tahini and salt. Blend to a soft hummus texture, adding water as needed. Taste for seasoning and to check if you have enough lemon juice. 4 Deseed and thinly slice the pepper and chilli. 5 To assemble your bowl, add a couple of heaped spoonfuls of the lentil hummus and arrange the sweet potato wedges on top. Scatter over the pepper and chilli, a good handful of watercress and some yeast flakes. Drizzle over just a little extra-virgin olive oil and a pinch of flaky sea salt to serve. n Per serving 656 cals, fat 35.9g, sat fat 6.3g, carbs 73.6g, sugars 36.2g, protein 11.2g, salt 1.2g, fibre 14.3g www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Healthyeating Pomegranate labneh with baby leeks, lentils and rice Serves 1 | Prep 10 mins | Cook 25 mins plain yogurt splash of pomegranate molasses handful of pomegranate seeds handful of chopped pistachios 55g Puy lentils ½ small onion, peeled 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 55g long-grain rice 3 baby leeks handful of baby spinach, shredded 1 Strain some plain yogurt through a muslin cloth into a bowl overnight in the refrigerator, to leave a thick yogurt. Add a little pomegranate molasses to the strained yogurt, spoon into a small dish and sprinkle with some pomegranate seeds and chopped pistachios. 2 Add the lentils, onion and vegetable bouillon powder to a pan of water, bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer for about 25 minutes, or until the lentils are cooked and still have a little bite, then drain. In a separate pan, cook the rice according to the instructions on the packet. 3 Heat a little butter or oil in a griddle pan and griddle the leeks until soft and lightly charred, about 7–10 minutes (or sauté 1 regular leek, sliced, in a frying pan). Mix the leeks with the lentils, spinach, some pomegranate seeds and chopped pistachios. 4 To assemble your bowl, add some rice first, then top with the lentil mixture. Enjoy with the pomegranate labneh on the side. n Per serving 640 cals, fat 14.9g, sat fat 2.8g, carbs 99.3g, sugars 24g, protein 30.3g, salt 1.9g, fibre 10.2g

Goat’s milk ricotta and squash with couscous and hemp seed pesto Serves 1 | Prep 15 mins | Cook 1 hr 1 litre goat’s milk ½ tsp salt 3 tbsp vinegar or lemon juice 1 small acorn or harlequin squash 55g mixture of basil and baby spinach leaves 1 clove garlic 2 tbsp hemp seeds 120ml extra-virgin olive oil

Pomegranate labneh with baby leeks, lentils and rice

squeeze of lemon juice sea salt 55g giant couscous 1 Place the goat’s milk and salt in a saucepan and heat until you start to see foam at the edges of the pan. Remove from the heat and add the vinegar or lemon juice. Stir just once or twice and leave to form curds. Let the milk stand for at least 5 minutes, then strain through a muslin cloth. Depending on the consistency you desire, you can let the curds drain for 5–20 minutes: 5 minutes will result in a very soft ricotta and 20 will be drier. Transfer to an airtight container, allow to cool to room temperature, place the lid on to seal, and keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. 2 Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/ gas 6. Place the squash on a roasting tray and roast in the oven until charred on the outside and you can easily pierce it with a sharp knife, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle,

tear the squash in half, then scoop out the seeds. 3 While the squash is roasting, process the basil and baby spinach leaves, garlic, hemp seeds and olive oil until you have the required consistency. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and sea salt to taste. 4 Cook the couscous according to the packet instructions, allow to cool a little, then mix with 2 tablespoons of the hemp seed pesto. 5 To assemble, place the squash halves in your bowl and spoon 2 tablespoons of the couscous into the cavities. Top with some crumbled ricotta and drizzle over a little olive oil. Add plenty of mixed leaves on the side. COOK’S TIP Keep the remaining pesto in an airtight jar for 2–3 days in the refrigerator. You can always use shop-bought ricotta in this recipe for a speedy alternative. n Per serving 409 cals, fat 19.4g, sat fat 5.8g, carbs 45.4g, sugars 10.5g, protein 14.4g, salt 1g, fibre 5.9g

Recipes adapted from Nourish Bowls (Quadrille, £15). Photography by Issy Crocker.

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Goat’s milk ricotta and squash with couscous and hemp seed pesto

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On the scent by Sara Niven, beauty editor

Keep summer holiday memories alive and ward off that ‘back to school’ feeling with these feelgood products.

Beautiful botanics

Tropical bliss

Tropic’s Organic Elixir Age-defying Facial Oil is an award-winning vegan blend of plant and seed oils, including kiwi and plum. Smooth it on your neck and chest area, as well as the face, for intense hydration. l £30 from www.tropicskincare.com

The Body Shop’s Piñita Colada Body Scrub is part of a new limited edition range that includes body wash and body butter – the lovely tropical smell is reminiscent of creamy cocktails! l £15 from www.thebodyshop.co.uk

The best for zest Indulge on a budget with Organic Surge Tropical Orange & Bergamot Hand & Body Wash. It has a moisturising formulation and is suitable for vegans. l £5.75 for 250ml www.organicsurge.com

Walking on sunshine

Mood mango

For a sunny spritz, The Library of Fragrance’s Sunshine eau de toilette is the perfect choice, or go for their fresh smelling Gin & Tonic option. l Both £15 for 30ml from Boots or the full range can be found at www.thelibraryoffragrance.com

Put some zing into bath times with this amazingly uplifting lemongrass-scented vegan-friendly You’ve Been Mangoed Bath Melt from Lush. l £2 from www.lush.co.uk

Disclaimer: Vegetarian Living only features products that are entirely vegetarian and/or vegan in formulation. The magazine also requests an assurance that the product and ingredients within it are not tested on animals and the company does not carry out or fund animal testing either in the UK or overseas. However formulations can change and policies can vary so we would advise checking directly with the companies if you have any concerns.

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Beautynotes

Home sweet home Forget artificial air fresheners and make your home a haven with these natural options.

The Esta Aroma Diffuser is made of sustainably sourced bamboo and uses ultrasonic technology to act as a mini-humidifier, creating a fine aromatherapy-infused mist, which helps counteract the drying effects of central heating. l £50, available from www.nealsyardremedies.com Neom Organic’s Energy Boosting Home Spray is a 100 per cent naturally refreshing blend of no less than 24 essential oils, including Sicilian lemon and basil. l £18 from www.neomorganics.com Wildheart’s Sanctuary Reed Diffuser with jasmine, chamomile and rosewood is a wonderfully soothing but uplifting blend of oils combined with a Soil Association certified grain base that will leave rooms smelling beautiful for around six weeks. l £25 from www.wildheartorganics.co.uk

Ask the Beauty Editor

The power of aromatherapy Can smell really change our mood, lift our energy levels or help us sleep better? The answer is yes, according to aromatherapy expert and founder of Neom Organics Nicola Elliott, who explains how her beauty and home fragrance range is based around doing just that. We are born with no memory of smells, but this quickly develops as we get older. So, for example, we think of summertime when we smell freshly cut grass, or memories from childhood. The recall of smell happens in 0.7 seconds, so you know instantly whether you like something or not. If you want to experience true therapeutic benefits, you should choose essential oils for your fragrance. Essential oils are complex compounds of chemical constituents taken from a single plant source that is volatile, so it evaporates easily and hits your limbic system, which is your ‘emotional’ brain. The oils work on both our emotional and physical needs when inhaled and can affect how you feel in 3–7 minutes. Although synthetic fragrances can smell nice, they don’t have the ability to affect your state of wellbeing in this way. You will tend to naturally choose the fragrance that suits your wellbeing needs. So if you feel in need of an energy boost you will likely be drawn to a lemon or grapefruit fragrance, or if you need calming or help with sleep then lavender and jasmine would be for you. It is all about personal preference, though, so you should also choose based on what aromas appeal to you most.

I suffer from dry skin and would love to treat myself to something special – but it must be organic and vegan too. Can you recommend a super-moisturising face product? I would recommend Raw Gaia’s Organic MSM Beauty Cream, which is handmade with cold-pressed, organic and veganfriendly ingredients including cacao butter (which gives it a very faint and pleasant chocolatey aroma!), apricot kernel and jojoba oil. MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) may sound like an artificial chemical best avoided, but is actually a natural substance containing sulphur found in many foods as well as being used as a dietary supplement. Raw Gaia say they use it in their cream because

it has collagen-building proteins. I find a little of this cream goes a very long way as it is super-rich, and although it is slightly grainy to the touch, it soon melts into the skin and leaves it feeling amazingly soft. However, I would recommend allowing time for the cream to fully absorb before applying make-up. At the time of going to press, the cream has also been shortlisted in the Free From Skincare awards. l Prices start from £9.95 for 15ml at www.rawgaiabyjessica.com.

Sweet dreams The Tisserand aromatherapy range (www.tisserand.com) includes quality essential oils, pure preblended oils, and bath and body products all certified by the Vegan Society. We have five sets of their award-winning Sweet Dreams bath oil, matching body oil and aromatherapy rollerball, worth more than £25 a set, up for grabs. The products contain a calming blend of lavender, jasmine and sandalwood natural oils. To enter, go to www.vegetarianliving.co.uk. Competition closes midday 4 August 2016. www.vegetarianliving.co.uk

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Squash & parmesan souffle from the bountiful kitchen by lizzie kamenetzky. Photography: Laura Edwards

Vegetarian Living, PO Box 6337 Bournemouth BH1 9EH Subscription enquiries t. +44 (0)1202 586848 • chris@selectps.com

Editorial Editor Lindsey Harrad lindsey@vegmag.co.uk Group Managing Editor Sarah Moran sarah@vegmag.co.uk

Production Editor Suzanne Juby Contributors Sarah Beattie Jon Bennett Alex Bourke Kelly Rose Bradford Áine Carlin Rachel Demuth Chava Eichner Kate Hackworthy

Nutrition Editor Sue Baic Gardening Editor Alice Whitehead Vegan Editor Alice Gunn Beauty Editor Sara Niven

Design Nick Trent enty209@gmail.com

Cover images Sweet potato, wakame and sesame patties by Cath Muscat Gluten-free by Chava Eichner Slow food by Laura Edwards Divine dessert by Jonathan Gregson Ruby Tandoh by Charlotte Bland Additional images courtesy of Shutterstock

Publishing

Online Marketing Executive Adrian Lito adrian@selectps.com

October issue, On sale 1 september

Useful conversions

Publisher Tim Harris Advertising Sales Manager Wendy Kearns wendy@vegmag.co.uk t. +44 (0)1392 466099

Comfort cooking

Production Manager John Beare IT Manager Vince Jones

Circulation Manager Tim Harris

Subscriptions Manager Chris Wigg chris@selectps.com (See page 58 for subscription details)

Published by Select Publisher Services PO Box 6337 Bournemouth BH1 9EH t. +44 (0)1202 586848

Printed by Precision Colour Printing Haldane, Halesfield 1 Telford, Shropshire TF7 4QQ t. +44 (0)1952 585585

www.vegetarianliving.co.uk © Select Publisher Services Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Select Publisher Services Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork, manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that Select Publisher Services Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return. Disclaimer: We cannot guarantee that events (such as festivals, markets, workshops, courses, etc.) covered in Vegetarian Living are completely vegetarian and/or vegan.

Use these handy conversion guides to help you out in the kitchen. For readers in Australia or the USA who prefer to use cup measurements, try an online converter, like the user-friendly calculator at www.theonlineconverter.co.uk. Weight 10g 25g 50g 75g 100g 125g 150g 175g 200g 225g 250g 275g 300g 325g 350g 375g 400g 425g 450g 500g 600g

¼oz 1oz 1¾oz 2¾oz 3oz 4½oz 5½oz 6oz 7oz 8oz 9oz 9¾oz 10½oz 11½oz 12oz 13oz 14oz 15oz 1lb 1lb 20z 1lb 5oz

700g 800g 900g 1kg

1lb 9oz 1lb 12oz 2lb 2lb 4oz

Oven temperatures Celsius Fahrenheit Gas mark 110 225 ¼ 130 250 ½ 140 275 1 150 300 2 170 325 3 180 350 4 190 375 5 200 400 6 220 425 7 230 455 8 Volume 30ml 50ml 100ml 125ml 150ml 175ml 200ml 300ml 400ml 500ml 600ml 700ml 850ml 1 litre 1.2 litres

1fl oz 2fl oz 3½fl oz 4fl oz 5fl oz (¼ pint) 6fl oz 7fl oz 10fl oz (½ pint) 14fl oz 18fl oz 1 pint 1¼ pints 1½ pints 1¾ pints 2 pints

Source: Guild of Food Writers

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Promotions

Coffee break Araku is a rather special member of the Suma coffee range, made using organic Indian beans that have been roasted in the UK. Slightly spicy, with caramel and brown sugar flavours and a silky smooth, well-rounded finish, this is a cooperative coffee, produced with the support of an organisation working to eliminate poverty in India. Through Fairtrade partnerships it also helps India’s Adivasi tribes access secure incomes, education and healthcare for the whole community. l £4.99 from www.suma.coop.

In the bag Ecozone, the UK’s planet-friendly household products company, has launched two sizes of biodegradable Compostable Bin Bags that are ideal for use in all food waste bins. Made from a combination of corn and potato starch, the bags compost with ease while also ensuring they are sturdy enough to cope with a lot of waste. They are vegan and Cruelty-free International approved too. l Available from Ethical Superstore and Big Green Smile at £1.99 for 6-litre bags and £2.25 for 10-litre bags. Visit www.ecozone. com for other stockist information.

The essential collection A shopping guide to the latest products for your vegetarian or vegan lifestyle…

A tasty bite Seasoned with cumin and cracked black pepper, these vegan-friendly falafels are from Fry’s new Nature’s Plant Proteins range, and are made with quinoa, coriander and chickpeas. Enjoy them burger-style in a bun with all your favourite extra toppings, or why not try them crumbled over a salad or in a pitta? These delicious and versatile bites are a great source of protein, and high in fibre and iron too. l Available at £2.95 for a pack of four from Ocado. Find out more at www.frysfamilyfoods.co.uk.

Take it on the chin Thirsty work

Eggs-tra special!

When kids are thirsty they quickly get grumpy and tired, so keep the whole family hydrated on outings with a bottle from the Kid Kanteen range. Cheaper than buying expensive bottled water, take your own tap water in one of these handy flasks, which provide families with healthy and safe alternatives to plastic, glass and lined aluminium bottles for young children. These new, vacuum-insulated and leakproof bottles help youngsters stay hydrated after a hard day’s play. l £22.95 from www.whitbyandco.co.uk. Find out more at www.kleankanteen.com.

Now everyone can enjoy the taste of scrambled eggs on toast, a healthy omelette or a homemade cake with VeganEgg! This plant-based egg replacer can be used in any recipe that calls for eggs, including quiche, omelettes and cakes, and with the same texture and similar taste to egg you can even enjoy it scrambled on toast! l Available at £6.99 from www.ethical superstore.com. Enter offer code X5VEGQ at the checkout and get £5 off your first order when you spend £30 (offer ends 30 October 2016).

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Great value is the watchword in these uncertain times and Handmade Naturals certainly provide this with products that rival top brands in terms of quality, but at a very affordable price. Their new Beard Oil for Men is no exception – combining organic argan, camelia and kahai oils to condition and soften all beard types, it is unfragranced, comes in a handy spray, and can be applied directly to the skin as a nourishing moisturiser too. l £8.50 from www.handmadenaturals. co.uk or call 01270 877516.

14/07/2016 13:44


vegetarian LIVING La Maison du Vert vegetarian & vegan hotel & restaurant

eat

Our hotel & restaurant is set in a stunning Normandy valley within 3 acres of beautiful gardens.

relax

• Delicious vegetarian and vegan gourmet menus • Naturally grown produce, organic wines, ciders and beers • Visit Honfleur, Camembert, Monet’s garden, Mont St Michel Bayeux, D-Day landing beaches and war memorials • Chateaux, markets, gardens, beaches, picturesque towns • Walk, cycle, relax! • Free WIFI

45mm wide x rest 55mm high see

Contact: Debbie & Daniel Armitage 61120 Ticheville, Normandy, France Email: mail@maisonduvert.com

00 33 2 33 36 95 84

www.maisonduvert.com

ECO-FRIENDLY SKI CHALETS

95mm wide x vegetarian 55mm high ski groups up to 30% off charming chalets  real food  quaint alpine villages PARADISKI, FRENCH ALPS www.hiddenalps.com

45mm wide x 115mm high

Advertise in the pages of Vegetarian Living Call Wendy Kearns on 01392 466099 or email wendy@vegmag.co.uk

Blossom’s at The Hotel Continental where Vegetarians cook for Vegetarians For Lunches and Dinner Flexihours To book Tel.01255 551298 email.hotconti@btconnect.com www.hotelcontinentalharwich.co.uk

95mm wide x 115mm high

Ambleside Manor V E G E TA R I A N C O U N T RY G U E S T H O U S E • Comfortable rooms on a vegetarian bed and breakfast basis • Set in over two acres of private grounds with plenty of parking • A short stroll from our award-winning vegetarian restaurants Zeffirellis and Fellinis

Rothay Road, Ambleside LA22 0EJ • 015394 32062 • ambleside-manor.co.uk

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www.vegetarianliving.co.uk www.vegetarianliv w Sandburne Vegetarian Guest House

Keswick’s Vegetarian Accommodation of Choice!

This spacious, relaxing, quality accommodation is the former home of Donald Watson, founder of the Vegan Society. It offers stunning views of the North Western Fells and a choice of twin rooms with luxury showers or a self-catering cottage sleeping 2- 5 next door. * Delicious vegetarian or vegan breakfasts * Plentiful parking, free wifi For more information please contact; Anthony Hazzard , Sandburne Vegetarian Guest House Chestnut Hill, Keswick CA12 4LS 017687 73546 / 07795673687 www.sandburne.co.uk email: anthony@sandburne.co.uk

We take into care those that have suffered from cruelty and neglect. Your nancial support provides them with a loving home for the rest of their days

Sanctuary for Goats

45mm wide x 175mm high

95mm wide 45mm wide x x 175mm high 175mm high

45mm wide 95mm wide x x 175mm high 175mm high

1

Visit our website at www.buttercups.org.uk

45mm wide x 235mm high

45mm wide x 235mm high

Boughton Monchelsea, Maidstone, Kent, ME17 4JU

45mm wide x 235mm high

45mm wide x 235mm high Registered Charity Number 1099627

Who will look after him when you’re gone? You promised your dog a lifetime of companionship and love. But, if you should die first, who would look after him then? Battersea will help you keep your promise, and will care for him until we find him the perfect new home. The Forever Loved card gives you peace of mind and the knowledge that your promise won’t die with you. Keep your promise to your beloved pets with a Forever Loved card from Battersea. Send or call for your free information pack about leaving a gift in your Will. Mr/Mrs/Ms/other

First name

Surname

Address Postcode Telephone

Battersea Dogs & Cats Home would love to call you, to talk about the amazing difference you have made and how your financial support can help more dogs and cats. Please share your telephone number if you’re happy for us to contact you in this way.

145mm wide 145mm wide x x Battersea Dogs & Cats Home would like to contact you by post in future about how your 55mm high 55mm high financial support can help our dogs and cats. If you do not wish to be contacted

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please let us know by writing on this form or using the contact details below. Supporter Services contact details: Freepost RTLJ-ETCZ-SCCZ, Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, 4 Battersea Park Road, London SW8 4AA Email: fundraising@battersea.org.uk battersea.org.uk/forever Registered charity No. 206394 AC64

to advertise call Wendy onto01392 advertise 873270 call or email: onto wendy@vegmag.co.uk 01392 advertise 873270 call Wendy or email: on to wendy@v 01392 advertis 87 to advertise call Wendy on 01392 466099 or Wendy email: wendy@vegmag.co.uk VL74-96-7.indd 97

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Eatingout Alex Bourke waltzes around the City of Music with Austrian vegans Daniela Lais and Madelaine Leitsberger.

Vienna Home to Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss, Vienna has several times been voted the city with the best quality of life in the world. Shop in the Kärntner Strasse pedestrian zone, ride the Ferris wheel in Prater Amusement Park, tour museums and imperial palaces, take in a classical concert or opera, and indulge yourself at over 50 central vegetarian cafés and restaurants. Pastries and cakes are a mainstay of Viennese culture and cherished as works of art. Apple strudel with rum-soaked raisins rules, but seek out Sacher torte, invented by Franz Sacher in 1832, the ultimate chocolate cake with apricot jam filling, coated in dark chocolate and served with whipped cream. A dairy-free, organic version is at

vegan patisserie and café Simply Raw Bakery, along with raw breakfasts such as Bircher muesli with almond milk, and light lunches like courgette noodles with pesto. We also love Nom Nom vegan bakery for cupcakes, cakes, macaroons and brownies, and the three Veganista ice cream parlours dishing up 18 flavours of soya-, coconut-, oat- or rice-cream cookie sandwiches, cones and cups. Everyone’s favourite restaurant Swing Kitchen plays happy, lively swing music in a New York industrial chic decor. Charly and Irene Schillinger turn traditional Wienerschnitzel into ‘Veganschnitzel’ in a wrap, plus five kinds of burger in a crisp ciabatta sourdough bun, served with chips or coleslaw and a drink. There are also falafels, Asian seitan ‘duck’ salad, and desserts include Sacher muffin and raspberry yogurt poppy tart. Finish the day feasting on hearty Austrian pub grub at Rupp’s, a cosy vegetarian pub

NEED TO KNOW Simply Raw Bakery

www.simplyrawbakery.at

Nom Nom

www.nomnom-v.com

Veganista

www.veganista.at

Swing Kitchen

www.swingkitchen.com

Rupp’s

www.rupps.at

Yamm!

www.yamm.at

Vienna Veggie Wine Club

www.vegculture.net/wine/vienna complete with dart board, table footie and board games. Try schnitzel with roast potatoes, chilli sin carne, goulash, burgers, bratwurst, vegan apple strudel, and nougat crepes with chocolate sauce and vanilla custard. Main menu till 11pm, and vegan cheese toasties till closing at 2 or 3am. There are craft and organic beers, vegan wines, and a thousand whiskies from all over the world.

Harvest Bistrot

www.harvest-bistrot.at

Vegetasia

www.vegetasia.at

Formosa Food www.formosa.at

Xu’s Cooking

www.xus-cooking.at

Loving Hut

www.lovinghut.at

Veganz

Facebook: Veganz Österreich

Maran Vegan

Facebook: Maran Vegan

Also recommended… l Yamm! is an elegant pay-by-weight vegetarian buffet restaurant next to the university, which also does vegan breakfasts. l Vienna Veggie Wine Club host vegan tasting evenings at Yamm! every first Friday of the month (except January). l Harvest Bistrot, opposite the Karmelitermarkt multiethnic food market, does a lunch buffet (=C15.50), weekend vegan brunch and lots of vegan cakes.

About Alex

l Veggie Chinese restaurants galore include Vegetasia, Formosa Food, Xu’s Cooking and Loving Hut. l At vegan supermarkets Veganz and Maran Vegan, you can pick up fake meats, 80 kinds of vegan cheese, and eat in the restaurants.

Alex Bourke is the publisher of Vegetarian Guides to London, the British Isles and Paris. Vegetarian Paris is £9.95 from www.vegetarian.travel, where you’ll also find book extracts, links to veggie travel websites and a calendar of vegan festivals.

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