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TRUMP VS THE FOUNDING FATHERS The battle for America’s soul By Matthew d’Ancona

A U G 2 0 1 6

SILVERTOWN The hippest London postcode you didn’t know existed



By Emily Wright


Meet the man making British music cool again By Eleanor Halls



Kelly Rohrbach Photographed for British GQ by

* Yup, it looks like the Nineties are back with a bang!



19 Editor’s Letter




The Style Manual

The only things moving faster than technology are our unrealistic expectations – we explore the perils and pitfalls of today’s digital lifestyle. BY TOM GOODWIN



Travis Scott rocks rap; the ace of shades; Eighties cinema does a second take; Bebe Rexha goes it alone; the great and good of the Hay Festival. 31

50 Bachelor Pad If walls can talk, give them something to say with prints that double as conversation pieces.



Taste Molly Bakes’ freakshake masterclass; a Michelin star hopeful spices up the suburbs; The Queen Of Hoxton takes a trip; double the pleasure with Michael Zee’s culinary symmetry; a map of the best menus in Harrogate.


The hottest horology; the gospel according to Gucci; be easily suede; Jim Chapman on London’s most rarified roads; Style Shrink.


GQ Preview Products, events, offers and more.

140 Michael Wolff When media titan Sumner Redstone dies, the scandals that engulfed his twilight years and shook the industry will be that much harder to bury.



Tony Parsons

Our Stuff

Labour’s newly acquired reputation for meanness couldn’t have happened to a nicer party.

Editor of GQ Style Luke Day reveals his fashion philosophy.

52 Cars

Aston Martin’s beautiful DB11 is flying the flag for internal combustion.




My Style

JJ Wilson, the crown prince of athleisure, shares the looks and luxuries that rule his world.

105 The Drop


Margot Robbie’s squad goals; Adam Clayton meets the godfather of colour photography; tales of old New York; Golf faces an under-par Olympics; if only John Adams were facing Trump. AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 7

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Swimsuit by Moeva, £200.

On the cover: T-Shirt by American Apparel, £24. Bikini bottoms by Heidi Klum. At House of Fraser.


TRUMP VS THE FOUNDING FATHERS The battle for America’s soul By Matthew d’Ancona

A U G 2 0 1 6 £3.99

SILVERTOWN The hippest London postcode you didn’t know existed


By Emily Wright



Meet the man making British music cool again By Eleanor Halls


Kelly Rohrbach Photographed for British GQ by





Pamela who? GQ meets red-hot rookie Kelly Rohrbach, whose Baywatch breakout will put her on the crest of a wave. Jean Roy









Get your head straight at work with the meditation app inspired by Buddhist monks; we build the healthiest pizza ever; are you up to Bear Grylls’ challenge? Plus, make your body shipshape for sailing and bedroom tricks from OMGYes.


Travel Special A race through the Malay jungle and a hike to Colombia’s Lost City vie with Mauritius’ supra-VIP Shangri-La to be this year’s most desirable destination.


Stockists All the labels in this month’s issue, from A to Z.

Features & fashion 70


Out To Lunch

Alastair Campbell meets Usain Bolt Get up to speed on parties, football and the future ambitions of the fastest man on earth.

Jonathan Heaf brims with praise for James Bay at Bellanger.


Velsvoir vanquishes your wardrobe woes with the ultimate hi-vis three-piece suit.



Graphic content Start your own blue period with these patterns and prints from cobalt to cornflower.

Visibly cool BY NIMROD KAMER


Stormzy GQ spends time with the grime messiah who’s redefining British music. BY ELEANOR HALLS


Welcome to the new Brooklyn Why Silvertown Quays is about to become London’s latest creative heartland.





Away daze Go boho in Bodrum with luxury label looks. PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHILIPPE VOGELENZANG



The light fantastic

From shoes to shades, acclimatise to summer with our selection of the best and brightest accessories. PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Matthew Shave AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 11








ART EDITOR James Ramsay

DESIGNER Oliver Jamieson





FASHION EDITOR Grace Gilfeather




GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Ailis Brennan, Zak Maoui






STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS Luke Day, Elgar Johnson, Luke Leitch, Lou Stoppard CONTRIBUTING ART EDITOR Adam Clayton





COMEDY EDITOR James Mullinger





Contributing Editors Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell, Naomi Campbell, Robert Chalmers, Nik Cohn, Giles Coren, Victoria Coren Mitchell, Andy Coulson, Adrian Deevoy, Alan Edwards, Robert Elms, David Furnish, AA Gill, Bear Grylls, Sophie Hastings, Mark Hix, Julia Hobsbawm, Boris Johnson, John Kampfner, Simon Kelner, Rod Liddle, Frank Luntz, Dorian Lynskey, Piers Morgan, John Naughton, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, Dermot O’Leary, Ian Osborne, Tom Parker Bowles, Tony Parsons, Oliver  Peyton, Julia Peyton-Jones, Hugo Rifkind, David Rosen, Martin Samuel, Darius Sanai, Kenny Schachter, Simon Schama, Alix Sharkey, Ed Smith, Ed Vaizey, Ed Victor, Celia Walden, Danny Wallace, Jim White, Michael Wolff, Peter York, Toby Young

Contributing Photographers Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom, Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters, Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Søren Solkær, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman








Managing Director

NICHOLAS COLERIDGE DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR Albert Read DIRECTORS: Jonathan Newhouse (Chairman), Nicholas Coleridge (Managing Director), Stephen Quinn, Annie Holcroft, Pam Raynor, Jamie Bill, Jean Faulkner, Shelagh Crofts, Albert Read, Patricia Stevenson

Chairman, Condé Nast International


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©2016 THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD Published by The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (Tel: 020-7499 9080; fax: 020-7495 1679; telex 27338 volon). Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Group. Colour origination by Tag: Response. Published 12 times a year. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices correct at the time of going to press, but subject to change.




The subscription rates for GQ for one year (12 issues, including postage) are: UK £47.88. Overseas Airmail per year: 99 euros to EU, £90 rest of Europe and £119 to the rest of the world, $129 for air-assisted periodicals postage to the US – USPS/ISSN 003615. (Postmaster: GQ c/o Mercury Airfreight International Ltd Inc, 365 Blair Road, Avenel, New Jersey 07001.) Customer enquiries, changes of address, and orders payable to: GQ, Subscriptions Department, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, Leics LE16 9EF. Subscriptions hotline: 0844 848 5202, open Monday to Friday 8am-9.30pm; Saturday 8am-4pm. Manage your subscription 24 hours a day by logging on to Distributed by Condé Nast & National Magazine Distributors (COMAG) Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE (Tel: 01895 433600; fax: 01895 433605). The paper used for this publication is based on renewable wood fibre. The wood these fibres is derived from is sourced from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. The producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according to highest environmental and health and safety standards. This magazine is fully recyclable – please log on to for your local recycling options for paper and board.


AM ERICA’S CU P. B R ITIS H TIM EK EEPI N G . Bremont has been appointed the Official Timing Partner of the 35th America’s Cup and of the defending champions, ORACLE TEAM USA. To celebrate, we’ve created a collection of limited edition timepieces. The Regatta Series, specially designed to be used by sailors, incorporates a unique countdown chronograph movement. The Regatta OTUSA models even feature high-grade carbon fibre from the winning 2013 ORACLE TEAM USA AC72 yacht. So the question is, which of these fine watches should you choose? Sorry, you’re on your own.

Culture club: (clockwise from top) Benedict Cumberbatch reads his contribution to Letters Live; Jerry Brotton meets Salman Rushdie; Siddhartha Mukherjee discusses his book The Gene: An Intimate History at the Hay Festival, 28-30 May 2016

LETTERS OF NOTE THE 14 February 1972 issue of New York magazine had an unusual cover, designed as a newspaper. At the top, in big, block capitals, ran a surreal headline: “THE BIRTH OF ‘THE NEW JOURNALISM’; EYEWITNESS REPORT BY TOM WOLFE”. It was all thoroughly arch, obviously, but the ensuing article contained declarations whose enduring influence would make the front-page treatment look peculiarly prescient. The novel, announced Wolfe, had been dethroned as the number one literary genre. “It is hard to explain what an American dream the idea of writing a novel was in the Forties, the Fifties and right into the early Sixties. The novel was no mere literary form. It was a psychological phenomenon. It was a cortical fever. It belonged in the glossary to A General Introduction To Psychoanalysis, somewhere between Narcissism and Obsessional Neuroses.” Yet now, he suggested, “Bellow, Barth, Updike – even the best of the lot, Philip Roth – the novelists are all out there ransacking the literary histories and sweating it out, wondering where they now stand.” So what had brought about the demise of this great American fixation? It was the discovery made in the early Sixties, argued Wolfe, “that it just might be possible to write journalism that would... read like a novel. Like a novel, if you get the picture.” In his estimation, however, this new form had developed with an acceleration never intended by its pioneers. “They were dreamers, all right, but one thing they never dreamed of. They never dreamed of the approaching irony. They never guessed for a minute that the work they would do over the next ten years, as journalists, would wipe out the novel as literature’s main event.” Wolfe’s essay, which would be reprinted in his seminal 1973 book The New Journalism, both captured and perpetuated a crucial development in the history of magazine writing. Take any decent magazine today, and – although written style has moved on considerably since the Seventies – it will owe a huge debt to Wolfe and the founding fathers of New Journalism, such as Truman Capote. After all, what characterises the long-form profiles or pieces of reportage in GQ? Well, drama certainly – if there isn’t a conflict, there isn’t a story – but also a through-line with rising and falling action; characters that propel the story forwards; and a vigorous sense of time and place. All the hallmarks of fiction writing. That said, Wolfe made a welcome error. He contended that literary journalism was “wiping out” the novel, and we’re delighted about his myopia. Since the outset, we have placed literature, that crucial part of our heritage, at the heart of our coverage, whether that’s making Martin Amis a cover star, giving a Men Of The Year award to Alan Hollinghurst, running a fiction writing competition in partnership with the Norman Mailer Writer’s Colony, or simply covering the best new titles month in, month out. Hence our relationship with the Hay Festival. For seven years now, GQ has marked this literary and artistic gathering by throwing a party, in association with Land Rover, to celebrate the extraordinary people that converge on Powys, Wales, and invigorate it with their imaginations and ideas.

Photographs Chris Athanasiouh

At GQ we’ve placed literature – a crucial part of our heritage – at the heart of our coverage


GQ remembers... Peter Stuart, Publishing Director The former Publisher of Vogue and Publishing Director of GQ was a legend in the industry. Peter, who recently died at the age of 77, was one of the leading advertising chiefs during the Eighties and Nineties, making a name for himself and the magazines he worked on by a combination of charm, innate good humour and keen business sense. He was a lovely man and a lovely man to work with. When I joined the magazine in 1999 he was exceptionally welcoming and, during the five or so years we worked together, we became great partners. Not only did Peter oversee a period of extraordinary growth for GQ, he did it with style; he made business fun, for the people who worked for him, for the people who worked with him – including me – as well as for the dozens and dozens of clients for whom a meeting (or better still, a lunch) with Peter was always something to look forward to. He was fiercely competitive and passionate in his espousal of GQ, and I like to think that we were a formidable team. He was genuinely loved by his colleagues, including me, and barely a day goes by when I don’t think about him in some way or another. He was not only a brilliant publishing director, he was a man who people genuinely liked doing business with. He was also funny. Very funny. In my first week at Condé Nast, I popped by his office to let him know that I’d organised a client meeting for 4.30pm the following Wednesday. He looked at me, deadpan, and said, “Why would I want a meeting in the middle of lunch?” Another time, showing a new client around the GQ offices on the first floor of Vogue House, Peter started explaining the specifications of the various departments. “How many people work here?” asked his guest. “Oh, about half,” replied Peter. I will miss him enormously.

Dylan Jones, Editor 20 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Follow us @britishgq @dylanjonesgq

The Grand Tour The frenzy surrounding the – ahem – enervating relaunch of Top Gear has only increased our appetite for the return of Clarkson, Hammond and May on Amazon Prime. The feeling at GQ is that the show won’t be anything less than superlative.

Ralph Lauren The iconic designer has become a summer institution in the UK, largely because of his partnership with Wimbledon. He is also synonymous with “the season”, while his blazer/ chino/loafer ensemble has been worn by everyone from Tinie Tempah to Samuel L Jackson. Blazer, £779. ralphlauren.

TAG Heuer Connected Watch The litmus test of any new watch is the down-time holiday, that spot of international travel when you can dress how you really want. This is the summer of TAG’s new connected watch, the one fully-loaded timepiece that you’ll see around the pool. £1,100.

Laura Mvula at Somerset House (below) Is there anyone who doesn’t love Laura? We like to think we had something of a hand in breaking her, three years ago, although since then she’s gone global. She returns to the UK festival circuit this summer, bringing her extraordinary voice and her engaging stage manner with her.

The Girls (Chatto & Windus, £12.99) You know a book’s worth picking up when it’s published in 35 countries and Scott Rudin buys the film rights. Emma Cline’s story, set during the summer of 1969, is based on a girl in Charles Manson’s Californian cult.

Photograph James Bryant

The village of Hay-On-Wye has long had writerly associations (not least in its concentration of bookshops) but since 1987 when Peter Florence established the festival – a “Woodstock of the mind” in Bill Clinton’s famous formulation – the small market town has served, for ten brief days each summer, as the gravitational centre of the literary world. And based on this year’s outing, it doesn’t show any signs of letting up. The billing included writers from AC Grayling to Salman Rushdie via Simon Armitage, talking on a diverse range of subjects from the 17thcentury world-view to myth making in modern fiction. Letters Live was, as ever, one of the main draws. This event, set up by Canongate Books’ Jamie Byng, asks actors to read correspondence worthy of a wider audience, and the line-up this year, which included Olivia Coleman, Tom Hollander and Benedict Cumberbatch, made for an electric mood in the packed-out tent. You can see them at GQ’s party in the Details section of this issue. Some of the greatest pleasures of Hay, however, are serendipitous – the talks you attend where the speaker is less notable but you bought a ticket on spec. A standout session came courtesy of Emma Sky, who has just published The Unraveling: High Hopes And Missed Opportunities In Iraq. Her story is remarkable. In 2003, while working for the British Council, she volunteered to help rebuild Iraq – a posting that was supposed to last three months. She ended up serving for five years, first as the representative of the Coalition Provisional Authority in Kirkuk and then as political advisor to a US General. In fact, she spent more time out there than any other diplomatic or military official. The talk she gave impressed and amused in equal measure. I expect most listeners headed immediately for the bookshop and snapped up her memoir. If you were in any doubt about the state of modern writing – fiction or nonfiction – the Festival would have reassured you that British literary talents are in rude health on all fronts. Roll on Hay 2017.



Norman Jean ROY Baywatch is back. This month’s cover star, model and actress Kelly Rohrbach, takes on Pamela Anderson’s role as CJ Parker in a new film version of the classic television show. Rohrbach donned the famous red swimsuit to be shot by Norman Jean Roy, who decided to use good old-fashioned film. “I love that we shot it that way – it brings back the element of mystery,” says Rohrbach.

They say that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. New York real estate mogul Aby Rosen couldn’t disagree more, which is why he’s closing down one of the city’s iconic landmarks: The Four Seasons restaurant. Emily Wright, global editor of Estates Gazette, spoke to Rosen about his rationale. “Rosen’s decision is indicative of a changing New York and a changing world. There has never been a more exciting time for the new,” says Wright.

Alastair CAMPBELL This month, Alastair Campbell interviews the fastest man on two feet: Usain Bolt. The Jamaican Olympic and world sprint champion says that next month’s Rio Games will be his last, which makes this summer his most important yet. “He absolutely hates losing. He trains a lot harder than people might imagine,” says Campbell, who also persuaded Bolt to sing happy birthday to his daughter over the phone.

AA GILL Pain stops play, declares AA Gill on This month, GQ’s resident golfer got himself a “sports elbow” – a metaphor for an injury that takes you out of the game. “A sports elbow is possibly the most important piece of kit,” says Gill. “This is because the most important thing about sport is not playing it.”

Photographs Rex; J Spencer

Robert JOHNSTON The second outing of GQ’s new fashion section, The Style Manual, edited by Fashion Director Robert Johnston, is in this issue. Fitting with the travel theme of the issue, we show you a thing or two about stylish travel, including how to wear linen suits and suede. “Suede has become the new summer material,” says Johnston. “And linen is a summer essential.”

Tom GOODWIN Our society does not cope well with digital disappointment. As technology reaches new heights, so do our expectations. So in this month’s Foreword, Tom Goodwin, who has written for the New York Times and the Economist, argues that the much-hyped “internet of things” is still a little way off. Instead he makes a case for our current halfwayhouse digital era, “the interim of things”. AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 23

Screen test: Technology has become something we notice most when it isn’t working

Illustration Jonny Wan

THE SCHLOCK OF THE NEW: HOW DIGITAL LIFE GOT MESSY In an era locked between the connected revolution and die-hard routines of daily life, can our expectations ever match the promises of technology that always lie just over the horizon? STORY BY

Tom Goodwin


he greasy fingerprints told only half the tale. Large plasma screens littered the departure lounge, but despite (or possibly because of) their oversized font, the perfect height of the monitors and the very slow refresh rate of data, affixed to each and every one was a peeling printed label: “This is not a touchscreen.” Digital disappointment surrounds us. Everything should be faster, more accurate and personalised. Anything new progresses from magical to wonderful to expected to disappointing in a matter of moments. In the words of Louis CK, “How quickly the world owes us something we didn’t even know existed five minutes ago.” The only things that consistently move faster than technological advancements are the expectations of them. The lag delays further, the gap between what we expect and what we get grows larger and delight fades quickly to disappointment. It’s getting worse. My phone can access everything ever made by anyone anywhere immediately – but why is this taking so long? When I can get 4G on the Shanghai underground, why can’t I get reception in the elevator? Why can’t I stream this abroad? But my other bank uses Touch ID. You don’t have Uber here yet? Why can’t you remember my username? And for all the promise of big data, my credit card provider is still sending monthly sign-up offers by mail. Surrounded by countless cases of mismanaged expectations, the beat of modern life is disappointment: the flights we can’t change online, the lost bookings, the out-of-order signs on the new iPads in Argos, unexpected errors, software glitches, blue screens of death and endless tapping become the punctuation to our days. The younger we are, the worse it is. The more incredulous we are to things that don’t fit our expectations, the stronger the frustration from the knowledge of how things can be. For a generation of people, spoilt by the most incredible technology quietly working away in the background, there is no room for wonder. Technology, for many, is something we only notice when it’s not working. Toddlers look aghast that the TV isn’t touch enabled. Teens are exasperated that angry Snapchats are not replied to within minutes. And it’s only spreading upward. As companies built for the modern age slowly replace their industrial incumbents, we now see each best-inclass experience as the standard for all. If Uber can show me the driver’s car, name, phone number and rating in real time, how can the New York subway not know where half their trains are, let alone tell me when to expect the next one? If Google traffic can aggregate all car movements to show me a near exact arrival time, why does American Airlines think this gate is boarding? Amazon can fly me a marble chopping board overnight from Kansas to New York City, but my local clothing retailer doesn’t know if they’ve got a size large in stock. Retargeted ads can note exactly what I am interested in, attach cookies to my behaviour, automatically buy advertising inventory and create custom-built advertising units within milliseconds, but only so


far as to show me the item I just bought and currently have less interest in buying than at any other time in my life. The expression “the future is already here, just not evenly distributed” has never been more true, but our expectations don’t work this way. And as technology makes more and more amazing things and every industry gets its unicorn start-up, digital disappointment continues to grow. Adding to this is asymmetry, as the process of technological disruption reaches maturity in some industries while it hasn’t even begun in others. First came music. We went from cassettes and skipping CDs to MP3 players and then the whole world of music entered its crappy interim with illegal streaming from Napster. Then iTunes expensively hosted fractions of music catalogues before Nokia and Pandora brought streaming to the masses and created what is now an environment that works superbly for users (and terribly for bands). The porn and news industries followed, and we now get access to all content from everywhere, in abundance and typically paid for (poorly) with our attention. Retail came next and, thanks to Amazon, Tesco, Ocado, Just Eat and many more, we’re now over-served as customers by companies, some of which struggle to make money. We’re now left with the laggards: banks that refuse to see the future and insist on maintaining high-street locations rather than perfecting customer service; insurance companies that refuse to accept the changing world of Zipcar and Airbnb; healthcare systems based on paper; and immigration and tax policies yet to accept that planes and the internet exist or that jobs can be freelanced. We have TV companies scared of what streaming did to music, border officials who trust paper passports over fingerprints and payment systems that still think a pen stroke is more secure than Touch ID. We have car companies that refuse to recognise that we need places to hold our iPhones, focusing on zero to 60 times rather than the dysfunctional dashboard panels. We have smart homes that require eleven taps to turn on a light and routinely don’t work while we wait to install updates. And 3-D printers can make everything in the world – except a compelling reason to own one. Right now, life has never felt more complex, more messy or more disjointed. It’s systems, protocols and platforms are in their early stages. It’s wiring that doesn’t connect, least of all with our needs. We talk endlessly about the “Internet Of Things”, but we’re not there yet. At some point everything should connect and just work but before then we’re stuck between the dumb and the smart. It’s the very worst of times – the interim of things.

For a generation of people spoilt by the most incredible technology, there is no room for wonder anymore



For these related stories, visit

Real Men Do Do Therapy (Louise Chunn, July 2016) Love Is The Tinder Trap (Stuart McGurk, June 2016) Race Relations Are Not Just Black Or White (Yasmin Alibhai-Brown, May 2016)


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One for the books: Sophie Hunter and Benedict Cumberbatch were among the guests at the seventh annual GQ Hay Festival Dinner in association with Land Rover



Willow Robinson and Caitlin Zenisek

Irvine Welsh and Marlon James

Photographs James Mason

Mark Strong and Tom Hollander



WYE AND WHEREFORE Stars of literature and the arts made space in their diaries to share galactic ideas at the Hay Festival IT’S testament to the Hay Festival’s substantial clout that, after almost three decades, it still manages to lure the leading lights of literature, art and ideas all the way out to Hay-On-Wye in the Powys countryside for its week of talks and panels. The billing this year was, true to form, as eclectic as it was impressive. Just glance around the marquee in which we held GQ’s seventh annual Hay dinner in association with Land Rover to mark the end of the festival’s first weekend. C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 3 8 AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 31



THE ONE-MINUTE SUITCASE Are you one of those guys who starts packing two nights before a trip? Rebuke thyself! The key is to have a capsule wardrobe from which you combine different elements depending on the destination. Here’s a visual guide for how to get travel-ready at lightning pace... w hat t y p e of tr ip ar e you tak ing ?




Shirt by Uniqlo, £20.

Shirt by Canali, £150.

Cap by New Era Cap, £28.

Jeans by AG, £215. At Selfridges.

Shirt by Sandro, £135.

Shoes by Thom Browne, £829. At Oki-Ni. Cap by Bates Hats, £60.

Belt by Russell & Bromley, £85. Jumper by John Smedley, £150.

Coat by Mackintosh, £1,380.

Polo by Ralph Lauren, £75.

Swimming shorts by Orlebar Brown, £225.

Trainers by Oliver Spencer, £139.

Tie by Marks & Spencer, £12.50. Trousers by H&M, £29.99.

Suit jacket by H&M, £49.99.

Shoes by Car Shoe, £295.

Shorts by Topman, £30.

Slides by Lacoste, £22. At JD Sports.

and for every destination... Watch by TAG Heuer, £1,700.

Headphones by Beats by Dre, £330.

Moisturiser by Clarins, £20.


Razor by Philips, £118. At John Lewis.

T-shirts by Sunspel, £60 each.

Toothbrush by Colgate, £37.50. At Argos.

Boxers by Calvin Klein, £28.


Styling Carlotta Constant Photographs Nicholas Kay; Carbon Art 45 Ltd/John Rowlands

Jacket by Barbour, £279.



MEET THE 200MPH ARTIST WHEN the artist Alastair Gibson first properly considered the form of a hammerhead shark, in an idle moment 15 years ago, one thing came to mind: racing car. “When you look at the curves and aerodynamic devices on the body of a Formula One car and you look at a shark with its fins and gills, you notice a beautiful parallel,” says Gibson, a former Formula One mechanic who now crafts sea creatures from carbon fibre Formula One parts. Gibson’s favourite piece is a piranha, owing to the story behind it: he smuggled a dried piranha back on the plane from Brazil to use as a muse. “It stunk the whole British Airways business lounge out, because I put it in my hand luggage!” Recently, Gibson has swerved away from marine life to sculpt a human heart. “A grand prix pump gets serviced every time it finishes a race, yet the human heart lasts 100 years, beating permanently without failing once,” says Gibson. “It is the ultimate pump.” EH At The Drang Gallery, Padstow, now.

gq intel while gibson’s works can fetch up to £82,000, he also sells entry-level editions starting at £95 via carbonart45. com

Art with bite: Alastair Gibson’s craftsmanship combines his Formula One experience with an interest in marine life AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 33

For stockists call: 01628 770988 |

Giorgio Armani THE


Tortoiseshell is on-trend now more than ever – and suits every skin tone going. £145.

Dior The keyhole bridge lends a modern twist to this traditional shape. £449.

EVER since the British food scene pulled its socks up, the Hot New Place In Town changes frequently. But, for a certain class of internationalist doing business in the capital, the gastronaut carousel is a faff. They prefer the tried-and-tested, discreet enclaves of a handful of elite dining rooms, of which the most spectacular is China Tang. Not only is it situated inside The Dorchester, the most lavish hotel in London, but the restaurant’s Thirties chinoiserie interior has the fingerprints of its flamboyant creator, Sir David Tang, all over it. For more than ten years dealmakers, actors and politicians have been lured not only by the first-class Cantonese cooking (last-meal contender: the dim sum) but also the way the restaurant twins sumptuousness with an old-fashioned idea of decorum. Not an Insta-foodie in sight. CB 53 Park Lane, London W1. 020 7629 9988.



IT’S NO LONGER HIP TO BE SQUARE No bother if you left your last pair of sunglasses at Club Cinquante Cinq – chances are, they were hard-edged, Wayfarer-style frames. The current trend is for more traditional, rounder lenses, and these examples come with au courant details...






he po is t w

he po is t w




e r


o t • ta b l


Photograph Jody Todd

GQ o t • ta b l sp

Taylor Morris Brow bars are back, courtesy of fashion’s current Seventies obsession. £170.

BAND Do something different this month; tune into these new sounds.


CHIC? try










You don’t need an expensive studio to be a pop star any more: just a laptop and some good ideas. This 24-year-old Mancunian has both. Nothing’s Real is out on 8 July.

Disco is enjoying a resurgence right now and Murphy is the scene’s queen. Her new record will pack out dance floors. Take Her Up To Monto is out on 8 July.

If you’re worried that bands no longer have anything to say, Bikini Kill singer Kathleen Hanna’s coruscating New York punk group is for you. Hit Reset is out on 8 July.

BEYOND THE WIZARD’S SLEEVE Erol Alkan and Richard Norris team up for a debut album that roams from psych to pop via Balearic dance. Kevin Perry The Soft Bounce is out now.






As a new generation of Ghostbusters fire up Ecto-1, what fate awaits these other yet-to-be-rebooted iconic films from our new favourite decade? ‘THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE’

Heaven’s Gate (1980)


Comeback credentials: Michael Cimino’s behemoth of a Western belly-flopped so badly it ruined United Artists – and Cimino’s career. Any plans? No. Cimino’s legacy is a poisoned well. Nobody likes Westerns anymore and studio controls have evolved to ensure such directorial follies will never happen again.

Number of artists for whom Rexha has written or produced songs

Back To The Future (1985)


Comeback credentials: Thirty years on, Bob Zemeckis’ Oedipal time-travelling sci-farce still runs like clockwork, though Michael J Fox’s mum-dating shenanigans are much too rude for modern multiplexes. Any plans? “Oh, god no,” said Zemeckis. “That can’t happen until both Bob [Gale, screenwriter] and I are dead. Then I’m sure they’ll do it.”

Big Trouble In Little China (1986)


Comeback credentials: A total one-off – and a tiny bit racist – John Carpenter’s bizarro kung-fu fantasy might just appeal to the growing Chinese market. Then again... Any plans? Maybe. Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has dropped hints, claiming to have “nothing but love and respect for the original”. First Baywatch, now this.

Scarface (1983)



Comeback credentials: Brian De Palma’s tale of immigrant gangsters, itself a remake, has dated badly, and a Trump-baiting update could really strike a nerve. Any plans? Likely. Pacino’s OK’ed it, plus director Pablo Larraín (of No fame) is attached. The update will be set in LA, rather than Cuba, and follow an immigrant’s rise in the criminal underworld.

Blade Runner (1982)


Take a picture; it lasts longer. Even better, let Instagram do it for you. Here are the three funniest ’grams we’ve seen this month.

@ F * * *J E R RY


@ B E TC H E S

This is strangely accurate


Us last night


Hive of activity: Bebe Rexha collaborated with Rihanna and Eminem before she began working on her debut solo album

Photographs Cara Robbins; Alamy; Rex


Comeback credentials: Ridley Scott required an astounding seven versions to perfect his vision of doomed retro-futurist replicant love. One more can’t hurt surely? Any plans? Directed by Denis Villeneuve, starring Ryan Gosling and Harrison Ford, the sequel is out in 2017. We’ve pre-ordered tickets. Matt Glasby



A VOICE OF HER OWN Bebe Rexha built a career making other artists sound good. Now, the spotlight is all hers YOU may think you just discovered Bebe Rexha. While it’s true that her recent song “No Broken Hearts” featuring Nicki Minaj is her breakout, racking up over 64 million views and shooting her to sudden stardom, you’ve actually been acquainted with her for a while. Name a recent top 40 song and chances are she made it, well, sing. Rexha wrote “The Monster” for Eminem and Rihanna and “Like A Champion” for Selena Gomez, collaborated with Pitbull and Iggy Azalea – and the vocals that soar on David Guetta’s “Hey Mama” and G-Eazy’s “Me, Myself And I”? That’s her on the mic. It was remiss not to see her solo career coming – after all, Rexha is a hustler. The Albanian was forced to grow a thick skin from years of bullying at school in New York for being, as she puts it, “an ugly duckling”. Music became her emotional outlet and she made a vow to herself: “This city is my playground and I’m going to take it by storm.” Now, with a new single out this month, she has almost completed her debut album, which was inspired by recent betrayal (Rexha’s boyfriend, her best friend and her manager all dumped her within the same week). “Following my heartbreak, I’m now more in touch with my womanhood,” she says. “So the album will be very sexy.” Ugly duckling? No chance. EH Bebe Rexha will perform at V Festival (20-21 August) AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 37

The GQ Hay Festival dinner

Rosie Boycott and Guto Harri

Liam Burgess

Rose Goddard and Carrie Plitt Rachel and Adrian Lambert THE



Irvine Welsh and Simon Armitage Marcus Brigstocke and Louise Garosi

Canapés at the GQ Hay Festival dinner

Ben Okri and Caroline Michel

Mark Strong




Over there, dining among the 250 guests, is Benedict Cumberbatch, the main draw at this year’s Letters Live. This Hay fixture celebrates the best of literary correspondence through live readings by actors and explains the presence of a number of other big names tonight, including Mark Strong and Tom Hollander. AC Grayling, too, is here. He spoke earlier on a 17th-century world-view yet ended up touching on a very 21st-century issue – the EU referendum – and made an impassioned case for voting “In”. He’s

now rubbing shoulders with Salman Rushdie, David Gilmour and Ruby Wax. Later, it will all make for an after-dinner dance floor quite unlike any other. One of the guests who’ll dance hardest, though, is Stephen Attenborough – and no wonder. Commercial director at Virgin Galactic, he arrived at our venue, Cabalva House, fresh from giving a Hay presentation that has become the talk of the evening. Virgin hopes to take its first paying customers to space before the end of 2017. Having partnered with Land Rover, which

Menu at the GQ Hay Festival dinner Dave Gilmour and Salman Rushdie

Julia Hobsbawm

AC Grayling and John Mitchinson

Aimee Sullivan

Lily Robinson

Photographs James Mason

has been designed specifically to exceed that threshold, affording passengers the right to use the term. As for what you can take on the flight? Well, mobile phones are out of the question (fear not: automated selfie systems inside the craft will take care of the photos) but customers may be permitted to carry small tubes of water, allowing them to see globules floating in zero gravity and have the experience of gulping them from the air. Hay’s motto is, “Imagine the world”. Attenborough left us imagining what lies beyond it. CB

Peter Florence

are a small handful who are making major financial sacrifices, such as remortgaging property, to join this pioneering enterprise. They come from a broad demographic: 18 is the minimum age, but there’s no upper limit. While many assume that you have to be in peak physical fitness, Virgin will accept most people who can ascend a flight of stairs without losing their breath, so Attenborough expects to make astronauts of 90-year-olds. And that word “astronaut” is quite crucial. Nasa sets the boundary of space at 80km above the earth’s surface, so the spaceship

Owen and Katherine Sheers

will provide the spaceport in New Mexico with ground transportation (alongside extensive programmes that aim to promote science and engineering among young people), Virgin has 700 would-be astronauts on its books, all of whom have committed $250,000 for the flight of a lifetime. It’s the finer details of Virgin’s project that are especially intriguing. For instance, the company won’t offer a free space flight to anybody bar one: Stephen Hawking. Of those who have paid up, most are firstgeneration high-net-worthers but there



by alex wickham


Chattering Tories speculate that Sajid Javid fancies a career change. Saj’s leadership ambitions went out the window during the referendum, and sources in the City reveal he has not been short of offers to leave politics. Might the former Chase Manhattan vice president want to make some real money again?

Tricia and Terry Jones

Clemency Burton-Hill

The Labour Friends Of The Forces group makes no mention of shadow defence secretary Emily Thornberry anywhere on its website, Facebook page or Twitter feed. A Labour-supporting former serviceman tells me that Thornberry is so unpopular with the troops that they don’t want anything to do with her.

When education secretary Nicky Morgan heard that her local paper was about to print a story suggesting she might send her son to a private school, her aide warned the paper that Morgan would stop writing her weekly column. It was published and NiMo carried out her threat. She’ll need a thicker skin if she’s serious about Tory leadership.

Photographs James Mason


David Cameron seems to have a habit of letting his private conversations with Her Majesty get caught on camera. At least he sees the funny side. “I’m the opposite of Jeremy Corbyn,” the PM has told friends. “Put me in front of the Queen and I sing like a canary.”

Xxxxxxx Xxxxxx

The GQ Hay Festival dinner

Stephen Attenborough and Gabi Whitfield

John Kampfner

Fiona MacDonald

Caitlin Zenisek, Willow Robinson and Lily Robinson

Joshua James

Lara Mingay and Feras Al-Chalabi

Waiter at the GQ Hay Festival dinner THE




TRAVIS Scott is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside a pair of Yeezy Boosts. When the rap-rocker (real name: Jacques Webster) arrived ex nihilo in 2012, he quickly became, seemingly, one of the best connected men in hip hop. Kanye West and Mike Dean punched up his debut mixtape, Owl Pharaoh; he has collaborated with everyone from 2 Chainz to Young Thug to The Weeknd; and he was dating Rihanna before Drake broke them up. Or so it is alleged. As with many aspects of this 24-year-old Texan’s life, for all his public profile and prolific studio work (four mixtapes/ albums in three years) he remains a question mark. Is he really, as he claims, a “nerd” who can code in HTML? Is he an ass (he was arrested for inviting fans to storm the stage) or one of the good guys (he’s no stranger to a charity gig)? And, more pressingly, will his new studio album, Birds In The Trap Sing McKnight, be out before or after this article? Only one man knows. CB Travis Scott is at Reading Festival on 27 August. 42 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Texas ranger: Travis Scott has already collaborated with The Weeknd and Kanye West

Photograph Nabil

With the phattest friends list in rap, the cryptic Travis Scott is anything but a lone-star statesman




bring your ’a’ game

Forget rooftop terraces – the best nights out this summer are all happening on boats. These four are making waves...

no 20

FREEDIVE LIKE A MERMAN Scuba gear? Pah. Train to hold your breath for longer... (Disclaimer: at your own risk)

the hipster one

the party one

Tom’s Kitchen, HMS Belfast

Alfred Le Roy

know the ropes

Flame-haired chef Tom Aikens has taken to the water with his 58-cover bar at HMS Belfast on the South Bank.

After it was discovered as a waterlogged wreck, this canal barge was dried out and transformed into a pleasure cruiser.

An original Thirties liner with mahogany balustrades, portholes and crisp white tablecloths.

set sail

It’s docked quayside so drinkers don’t venture far, but what it lacks in cruising it makes up for in panoramas.

It’s moored up at night, but in the afternoon there are two-and-ahalf-hour trips on the River Lea.

Put 27 August in your diary: it’s the boat’s bank holiday party (£35) complete with old-school cocktails, live cabaret and floor shows, plus dancing until 2am.

captain’s table

Any on the indoor/ outdoor terrace – perfect for unpredictable British weather.

Eschew the bow for one of the leather-lined booths, complete with retractable roof.

It’s more about where not to be – which is downstairs.

when the sun’s over the yardarm...

The bourbonbased Kraken (£9) or gin-spiked Black Pearl (£9.50) could send a man overboard. Team with a seafood-based sharing board (£26.50).

The bar is right on trend with its kombucha cocktails: fermented tea laced with alcohol. Ours is the gin-based White Building (£8).

The two bars on board are supervised by Bourne & Hollingsworth, the cocktail brand behind the famous watering holes in Clerkenwell and Fitzrovia.


Open daily, 12pm to late. HMS Belfast, The Queen’s Walk, SE1. hms-belfast

Wednesday to Sunday, 6pm to late. Canalside, Queens Yard, White Post Lane, E9.

Selected dates only, 8pm to 2am. Savoy Pier, Victoria Embankment, WC2.

SS Atlantica

the roving one London Shell Co

London Shell Co was once a floating supper club on a raft of rotating boats. Now it has a permanent home.

The site is moored on Regent’s Canal, and from 1 August a regular series of supper clubs is scheduled at just £40 for dinner and drinks.

Take one of the three on deck.

Shuck oysters. Slurp clam chowder. Pick at crab. And wash it all down with wine served by a former sommelier of Jason Atherton.

2 Breathe deeply for two minutes. Finally, take one 90 per cent breath.

3 Hold your breath by putting your tongue to the roof of your mouth. Refer to CO2 and O2 “tables” (found online) to structure sets of breath holds.

Wednesday to Friday until 30 October, 7pm – 10.30pm. Regent’s Canal, NW1. Nicky Clarke

THE BOOK: HOW TO DELIVER AN INSULT LIKE TOM WATKINS Before Simon Cowell there was Tom Watkins, the pop svengali behind the Pet Shop Boys, Bros and East 17. His new memoir, Let’s Make Lots of Money: Secrets Of A Rich, Fat, Gay, Lucky Bastard, is as brash as its title. Herewith, a flavour of the waspishness that makes it so readable... On East 17’s ecstasy-use controversy: “Even John Major, the Gary Barlow of prime ministers, said it was ‘wholly wrong’. Christ, this guy’s skin was as grey as his hair. The bloke could have used an E!” On sitting through the Pet Shop Boys’ 2001 Watkins-lampooning musical, Closer To Heaven: “It was a fitting tribute. Me and the empty seats had a right old chuckle.” On Bros’ egos: “[Their minder] had to liquidise Luke [Goss]’s food, because the drummer was declaring himself too tired to do anything as strenuous as actually chewing when he came off stage.” On The Pet Shop Boys’ gay bent: “Neil [Tennant] always claimed it was unintentional. Yeah, sure, Neil! And there is no such thing as ‘gay music’, he added. All this from a man who was later to cover ‘Go West’ by the Village People... doubtless while still claiming there was no such thing as ‘gay music’.” On modern stars: “Now, everyone looks a bit dull. Ed Sheeran. Sam Smith. The former a boring straight bloke, the latter a boring gay bloke. It’s nice to know that homos are allowed to be as dreary as heteros now.” CB Let’s Make Lots of Money: Secrets Of A Rich, Fat, Gay, Lucky Bastard (Virgin, £20) is out now.


1 Practise on land before in the water – but for both it’s vital to buddy up and establish an emergency hand signal.

4 When diaphragm contractions begin, push through the initial bout. Train with a professional to learn your limits.

5 During a dive use small, symmetrical scissor kicks from the hip and tilt your body away from whichever leg is raised. CB

Illustrations Dave Hopkins

the cheffy one


Labour is the real ‘Nasty Party’ now

The myth of Labour’s moral high ground has been exposed by the Left’s anti-Semites and Jeremy Corbyn’s failure to deal with a cancerous bigotry among his own supporters he Labour Party has always claimed the moral high ground of British politics. The notion seems laughable today, now that Labour is a safe space for Jew-baiting bigots and Holocaust deniers of every description, but once Labour actually insisted on their moral superiority over the Tories. The party did not simply assert that it had the most effective way of organising society. Labour were the good guys, the non-racist, big-hearted nice party. It was the Tory brand that was toxic. It was the Tories who were, as Theresa May had it, the “Nasty Party”. It was the Tories who were – in the slogan of a million placard-wielding malcontents – scum. Even after David Cameron ring-fenced the foreign aid budget, and started getting mistyeyed about wind machines, and sneered at Ukip voters as “fruitcakes, loonies and closet racists”, it was still Labour that allegedly cared most deeply about the poor, the vulnerable and the underdog, and it was still the Tories who were champagne-swilling scum. It was Labour who fretted about fairness, equality and social justice. It was Tories who were portrayed as privileged toffs, heartless to the point of sadism. And the main reason why the Tory scum image stuck was because of one woman who was born into the most modest of circumstances. The principal argument

Asked about her greatest triumph, Thatcher

did not recall becoming the first female British prime minister, or winning three general elections, or tossing the Argentinian invaders out of the Falkland Islands, or helping Ronald Reagan to win the Cold War, or bringing the big trade unions to heel. Asked to recall her finest moment, Maggie remembered helping to get one Jewish girl out of prewar Nazi Germany. In 1938 Edith Muhlbauer was a 17-year-old Jewish girl in Vienna with a pen pal her own age in Grantham, England – Muriel Roberts, who had a 12-year-old sister called Margaret, who would grow up to be the Iron Lady. Edith was desperate – the Jews, she wrote to Muriel, were being forced to scrub the pavements. The two Roberts sisters started raising money to help Edith out of Europe, enlisting the help

It was Labour that allegedly cared about the poor, while the Tories were scum

of the local Rotary Club. And they succeeded. Edith arrived in England just before the war began and for the next two years shuffled between a dozen Rotary families – including the Roberts – before joining relatives in South America. In later years Edith recalled that had it not been for the two young sisters, she would have met her end in a gas chamber. Margaret Thatcher, the great Satan to the Left, was passionately pro-Jewish all her life. She admired her constituents, the Jewish population of Finchley, north London, for their belief in hard work, education and family. They were, Thatcher said, “her people”. “In the 33 years that I represented Finchley, I never had a Jew come in poverty and desperation to one of my meetings,” she wrote, wishing the rest of the population “would take closer note of the Jewish emphasis on self-help and the acceptance of personal responsibility”. For the Left, Maggie Thatcher is evil made flesh, blood and handbag. Yet it was under her that the Tory Party became a defender of Jewish causes as Maggie surrounded herself with Jewish talent. This did not sit well with the old patrician Tory party who were dismayed to see so many Jews in Thatcher’s government. “The thing about Margaret’s cabinet,” sniffed Harold Macmillan, prime minister from 1957 to 1963, “is that it includes more Old Estonians than it does Old Etonians.”

Illustration Sam Kerr


for Labour's moral superiority was Thatcher. And what seems bitterly ironic today is that Margaret Thatcher did not have an anti-Semitic bone in her body.


LAST MAN STANDING Thatcher purged the Tory party of its antiSemitism. Chaim Bermant, the Anglo-Jewish writer, wrote that Thatcher had “an almost mystical faith in Jewish abilities”. And as Labour is now the spiritual home to every kind of Hitler apologist and Jew-hating racist, that raises the question – who is the nasty party now? t times this year, the Labour Party has seemed scarcely sane. On 10 April Labour councillor Aysegul Gurbuz of Luton was suspended after praising Hitler as “the greatest man in history” and saying she hoped Iran would use “a nuclear weapon to wipe Israel off the map”. On 27 April, Naseem “Naz” Shah, Labour MP for Bradford West, resigned as aide to Labour’s deputy leader after it emerged she had posted her “solution” to the Middle East conflict on Facebook – relocating Israel to the United States. Shah also compared Israel to Nazi Germany – the cherished lie of the hard left and Islamist extremists alike – and tried to garner support for a poll criticising Israel with the words, “The Jews are rallying.” Robustly rushing to Shah’s defence, Ken Livingstone, the former London mayor who once compared a Jewish journalist to a concentration camp guard, offered the view that Adolf Hitler had been a Zionist “before he went mad”. Livingstone insisted, “That was the policy they [the Nazi Party] ran on in 1932. It was to deport all the Jews in Germany to Israel.” But Israel did not even exist until 1948. And Israel did not exist until six million Jews had been murdered in the camps. This did not seem to bother Livingstone very much, who insisted it was wrong “to think of anti-Semitism and racism as exactly the same thing”. So anti-Semitism wasn’t even racism now? Wow. This was the kind of Jew-hating lunacy that has always existed on the fringes of social media. But with Labour led by Jeremy Corbyn – a man who described Islamist militant groups Hamas and Hezbollah as “friends” – the poison has entered the mainstream of political discourse. As more of the Jew-baiting, Israelhating comments from Labour supporters kept coming, it felt like the sectarian hatreds of the Middle East were now part of British politics. And you had to wonder how many votes would Naz Shah’s comments lose her back home in her constituency of Bradford West, with its massive Muslim population? My guess would be none.



It was always a myth that the Labour Party

had the monopoly on virtue. Lord Dobbs, the Tory peer who, as Michael Dobbs, created House Of Cards, recalled the dark days of the Seventies when militant unions drove the nation to its knees. “My mother was dying at the time,” remembered Lord Dobbs on Radio 4. “She had cancer, didn’t have long to live, but still had to go out to work. And during those three-day weeks, she had to put on two overcoats and gloves to go to an unheated office with no light in order for her to try to feed her family. And then people tell me that we are the uncaring bunch. Actually, it was the Labour Party of the Sixties and the Seventies and indeed of the Eighties which was the nasty party, the selfish party, the party that sent their troops into battle on the streets and around the factories and the hospitals and the schools and the cemeteries, when they locked the cemeteries so that we couldn’t even bury our dead. That wasn’t very caring, was it?”

What would the generation who voted for Attlee make of Corbyn’s Labour? And yet it feels like there was a fundamental decency about old Labour – a yearning for social justice, for a fairer society, an aspiration to a kinder, more egalitarian country. Hearing that Corbyn shared a platform with the likes of Sheikh Raed Salah, who called Jews “monkeys” and “bacteria”, feels like a grotesque betrayal of our greatest generation, the generation who fought for Winston Churchill but then voted for Clement Attlee, sweeping Labour to power in the 1945 general election. What would they have made of Corbyn’s Labour Party? “There is only one party where you find the councillors praising Hitler,” wrote Daniel Finkelstein in the Times. “And it’s Labour.” he cancer killing Labour is not simply the usual Israel-hating instinct of the loopy Left. The bigotry is inflamed by the antiSemitism that is indigenous to the Muslim world. Many rushed to shout down Livingstone for his nutty views about Hitler.


But as Peter Hitchens said in the Mail On Sunday, there was less appetite to tackle what Hitchens called “the Left’s feebleness in the face of Muslim Judeophobia”. “Everyone howls at batty Ken,” wrote Hitchens. “But they wouldn’t dare tackle racist Muslims.” Perhaps because there are 3.1 million Muslims in Britain and only 370,000 Jews. Labour has strenuously courted the Muslim vote and seems unable to even consider that perhaps the problem of anti-Semitism goes to the very core of that community. There has always been a naïve assumption in British political life that racism was not a problem for ethnic minorities but only for the white population. This turns out to be woefully simplistic. Anti-Semitism today is the racism that dares to speak its name. It is no longer confined to the Middle East. It is in Luton and Bradford. It grows in Corbyn’s Labour like terminal cancer. Councillor Khadim Hussain, former lord mayor of Bradford, was suspended for sharing a Facebook post that suggested, “Your school education system only tells you about Anne Frank and the six million Zionists that were killed by Hitler.” And so it goes. Suspensions. Resignations. Half-hearted apologies. Mealy-mouthed excuses. Aysegul Gurbuz suggested that perhaps her sister had secretly posted those anti-Semitic tweets. A Labour spokesman bizarrely suggested that Naz Shah “made remarks that she doesn’t agree with”. And it was announced that there would be an enquiry that will perhaps conclude with Corbyn purging himself. And still the malignant tumour grows. This all goes back further than Corbyn’s leadership. Labour grew to despise the very people they had formed to protect. You saw it when Gordon Brown called Mrs Gillian Duffy “that bigoted woman” for daring to raise the subject of immigration in 2010. The working class has long filled all those Labour big shots with a profound revulsion. If the likes of Yvette Cooper get emotional, it will inevitably be about Syrian refugees rather than our own people. And that is part of Labour’s problem today. Its twisted worldview regards the West as eternally wrong and the Muslim world as eternal victims. You still hear “Tory scum” banded about but the days when it had the vague ring of truth feels as distant as banana rationing. Labour, Labour, Labour. Scum, scum, scum. Oh, how horribly easily it rolls off the tongue.

TOMA SZ FURMANEK Photo by: Tomasz Furmanek

Because He’s Worth It by Zoe Moss, £150. At Curious Duke Gallery.

Natalie by Joe Cruz, £110. At Scream Editions.


Lunar Seas by Dan Hillier, £240. At ArtDog London.

Cabin by Hey Studio, £145. At Outline Editions.


Above: Jewel Runner by Hutch, £195. At Lilford Gallery. Below: Battersea Power Station by Jayson Lilley, £155. At Caiger Contemporary Art.

All You Need Is Love by Inkie, £125. At Jealous.

Forget buying to invest, enjoy art for its own sake with the galleries behind the new print renaissance PHOTOGRAPH BY


Mitch Payne



r e n n u t s d l o c e n o t S

s t leaves it er a h t l e v r ma tour gineering r new favourite n e n a is h you DB11 Martin’s on the road wit n o t s A , goes leash s off the st. Jason Barlow r e n ig s e he du g its d By lettin ivals choking in t r e-power G P H OTO



we Alex Ho

Rock solid: With 600bhp beneath the bonnet, the Aston Martin DB11 can top 200mph 52 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016




Available in TONI&GUY, essensuals and specially appointed salons. 01753 612090

be the

f o E FACtomorrow

F : /labelmUK T : @labelmUK I : /labelmUK P : /labelm YT : /UKlabelm


CARS retty soon, cars will have full autonomy. The technology already exists and Mercedes’ exceptional new E-Class can drive itself. Cameras, scanners, lasers and software all contrive to take over, and it’s only a legislative quagmire that’s holding things up. (Who’s liable if it crashes?) Depending on your point of view, this is either further Orwellian incursion into a cherished civil liberty or the perfect antidote to another purgatorial afternoon on the M25. Pretty soon, all cars will also be fully electric. Apple and Google are both at full tilt developing their autonomous EVs, gearing up to stick it to the tired old car industry like they did to the music biz. Does eternal damnation await internal combustion? Nope. The more we’re told we can’t have something, the more we want it. Spotify hasn’t pulled the plug on physical music formats: it’s boosted vinyl sales to levels not seen for 25 years. Nor have Sky or Netflix killed the big screen. “The cinema is still a great way to get out of the house or get away from your parents. It’s a social experience,” Working Title CEO Eric Fellner recently told me. Aston Martin, meanwhile, is unlikely to be adding autonomous functionality to its cars any time soon. Or full electrification. The DB11, the first in a volley of all-new models from Britain’s most famous car company, isn’t just transport or, God help us, a “mobility solution”. It’s entertainment; a fully immersive, 360-degree interactive experience that just happens to have four bits of rubber on each corner and an engine under the bonnet. It’s a big engine and a long bonnet: a brand new 5.2-litre twin-turbocharged V12, good for 600bhp, powerful enough to break the 200mph barrier and hit 60mph in less than four seconds, beneath a spectacular singlepiece aluminium clamshell. But the DB11 isn’t bothered about what it can do so much as how it goes about doing it. This is an old-school GT car, a kind of private jet for the road when you don’t want to take to the skies, a throwback to a romantic vision of the sort of pheromonal trans-continental driving practised by the likes of Gunter Sachs or Gianni Agnelli. “Ride comfort and isolation – these are key,” Aston’s dynamics guru, Matt Becker, tells me. “We’re after a broad dynamic spectrum, but to me a GT car is something you can drive a long distance and climb out of feeling refreshed. You can drive it on a circuit or drive it very fast and not be intimidated by it.”

With thanks to Suttle Stone Quarries for the use of Swanworth Quarry


It really is new too. “When Marek channels. It reduces high-speed lift, [Reichman, chief creative officer] without compromising the car’s and I were tasked with dreaming up svelte silhouette. “We don’t need a new DB, we started with a clean big committees to get things done,” sheet of paper,” project director Ian Minards says. “We have an amazing Minards says. “It was daunting, but ability to free-think. The aeroblade very liberating.” is a good example of that.” “Every millimetre of DB11 has The shape is a little complex, but been reimagined from the ground The DB11 features in the right colour and trim it has a unique set of up,” Reichman adds. He and his tyres designed by enormous presence. This is an art team have been at pains over Bridgestone. Aston’s Aston has perfected and the DB11 the past five years to make each chief creative officer even features a cabin treatment car they created – One77, CC100 Marek Reichman called “brogueing”, wherein the gave the tyres the concept, Vulcan, even 007’s DB10 leather is quilted and perforated like codename S007. – part of an evolving continuum, so a classic gentleman’s shoe. A deal ENGINE the DB11 isn’t a total culture shock. 600bhp 5.2-litre V12 with Mercedes means the electronics The front reworks classic Aston PERFORMANCE are all sourced from the German cues, and the Sixties DB series’ side 0-62mph in 3.9 seconds; behemoth and have therefore been vent strakes also get a welcome refit. top speed, 200mph stress-tested to destruction. Aston They’re now part of what Aston calls PRICE also employs a “sensory perceived the “curlicue” vent, which extracts £154,900 quality manager”, so the doors shut high-pressure air from the front CONTACT in a specific way, and the reverse wheel arch to reduce lift. There’s parking sensor chimes plangently another “strake” in the roof, which rather than screeching hysterically. runs seamlessly along the length of the car on Details matter. either side. It’s extruded, bent, pressed, laser cut The DB11 is no featherweight, but it feels like and then polished (and anodised if you want). a smaller car. Naturally, 600bhp gives it pace no one can argue with, but better than that The body panels are a mix of aluminium, composites and plastics, created using a new process is its surgical approach to demanding roads. called hot-form quenching, which allows the It also sounds like it means it, no easy feat pressings to be lighter and have tighter radii: given that turbos generally blunt an engine’s designers love this sort of thing. higher frequencies. It makes you want to strike There’s also something called an aeroblade, a out immediately for the Route Napoleon or duct that does away with an ugly rear spoiler Gotthard Pass and never come back. by feeding air across the boot panel via hidden Now that’s our kind of autonomy. Sky blue thinking: There may have been more striking Astons but in the right trim the DB11 still turns heads





The co-founder of luxe essentials label Kit And Ace, JJ Wilson, reveals his personal brand of comfort and cool


Blazer “I bring this everywhere with me. It’s packable, easy to wear and can hit pubs, boardrooms and weddings.” By Theory, £475.


Bracelet “This Cartier LOVE bracelet is locked on. It’s a classic piece that I don’t see many other men wearing, which I like.” £4,600.

Key holder “This is just awesome. I picked it up in Prada while I was in Tokyo to fit in with the crowd.” £155.

Watch “This was a graduating gift from my grandfather. I can dress it up or down and it has sentimental value so I never take it off – unless I’m going to a work-out.” By Cartier, £6,500.

Interview Eleanor Halls Photographs Jody Todd Grooming Alice Howlett using Urban Decay and Bumble And Bumble

Backpack “I’m not a briefcase guy. I’ve always got a backpack with me to carry my laptop and work-out gear. This one is functional but still stylish enough to pair with streetwear.” By Prada, £910.


Sunglasses “I like the reflective lenses by Dior – they’re a nice change from my usual black shades to go with my black outfit. I usually wear all black because I love how it hides a stain.” £295. At Harvey Nichols.


Fragrance “I’ve been a fan of Le Labo fragrance for a long time – Santal 33 is one of my favourites and now it’s time to pick up a fresh bottle.” £165. At Liberty.

Trainers “I like that Common Projects doesn’t take the value of quality lightly. The shoes are well crafted, comfortable and they go with pretty much everything I own.” £265. At AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 57

FROM GQ! INTERACTIVE EDITIONS Available to download from the App Store and Google Play



OThe origins of the Freakshake remain mysterious. There have been sightings in Australia and Paris (le freak, c’est chic), but Maria Goodman at Molly Bakes ( – a café in London’s Dalston – has brought them to Britain.



The Super Freak Freakshake It’s time for a sweet summer shakedown with the monstrous, munificent confection of Molly Bakes PHOTOGRAPH BY

Andrew Irwin

OAs long as it doesn’t topple over, there is no limit to how freaky a shake can get. This is pure indulgence – if you’re counting calories, bring a calculator.


THE SPECIAL OGo off menu at Molly Bakes and ask for this “Cookie Dough Freakshake”, made especially for GQ with pretzels, M&M’s, brownies and marshmallow (or turn to page 80 to have a go at making one yourself).




The GQ vanilla, cookie dough and chocolate freakshake by Molly Bakes If you can avoid eating all the raw ingredients as you go, you will have mastered the first step of freakshakery... You will need OA mason jar OA milkshake blender or

food processor Ingredients OChocolate ganache OM&M’s OPretzels O3 scoops of good quality vanilla ice cream O250ml whole milk O2 scoops cookie dough OWhipped cream OBrownie (optional) OMarshmallow (optional) OChocolate sauce

LEON D’ORO, ITALY Tucked away on the historic backstreets in the old town of Riva, this is where the locals choose to eat (and have done since 1938).

standout dish Venison carpaccio with mashed chestnuts, honey and mascarpone. Via Fiume 28, Riva del Garda, Italy. +39 0464 552341.

Method OSmear chocolate ganache

around the inside of a mason jar and on the outside rim. Stick pretzels and M&M’s around the rim. Place on a small plate and set aside. OPlace 3 scoops of ice cream into the cup of your spindle mixer or into a blender and add the milk and 1 scoop of cookie dough. Blend until just combined. OPour into the prepared mason jar and swirl the whipped cream on top. OAdd 1 scoop of cookie dough on top of the whipped cream and decorate with M&M’s, pretzels, marshmallow and brownie. ODrizzle with chocolate sauce. Add a straw or two and serve.


GUTS & GLORY, AMSTERDAM This unique restaurant in central Amsterdam offers small plates all based on one theme, which is changed every six months.

standout dish Go for one of the tasting menus. Utrechtsestraat 6, Amsterdam. +31 20 362 0030.

TRIBECA GRILL , NEW YORK CITY The Robert De Niro-backed grill is more popular than ever thanks to Lower Manhattan’s redevelopment.

standout dish Long Island duck breast with parsnip purée and Swiss chard. O450 Kingsland Road, London E8. 020 7241 1740. 60 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

375 Greenwich Street, New York. +001 212 941 3900.

The Woodford Discover a local favourite and Michelin star hopeful that goes the extra mile to surpass suburban expectations SUNNY South Woodford, a small ‘burb in the twilight zone between London and Epping Forest, is not known as an outpost of fine dining. And I should know. Full disclosure: your correspondent is a local resident. Beyond a hospitality hotchpotch of indie meze, chains of high-street Italians and predictably poor pub grub, if you are looking for Michelin stars you are better off enquiring at one of the local garages. Similarly, if you are looking for a bar/nightclub where you can be stabbed or shot by a random selection of antisocial Towie wannabes, you will also be out of luck too because Funky Mojoe closed its doors in 2014. However, there is good news... in March, the Mojoe (bomb)site was converted into a restaurant with a former Young National Chef Of The Year in the kitchen who is brazenly open about his ambition to win a Michelin star for The Woodford. And having tasted 25-year-old Ben Murphy’s food, you’d be as well to put your money on that happening sooner rather than later. The 100-seater restaurant is big (it is set over two floors, with the Churchill Oyster And Champagne Lounge


The Red Lion YOU can tell a lot about the character of a pub by the Mane event: The Red Lion’s cars parked outside. It’s like scallops wrapped in foreign cities where the best in pancetta with black pudding street food will be on the stand with and watercress the longest queue of locals. On this particular visit, we saw Bentleys parked next to Ford Transit vans and Ford Focuses next to motorbikes. A varied clientele then, who enjoy the company of the pugnacious pub dog, Millie, and the friendly, timely service of the live-in landlords. Couple that with a menu with just the right combination of homely charm, metropolitantinged experimentation and healthy portions – GQ recommends the saltimbocca scotch egg (£7), pan-roasted monkfish (£17) and the “Gin Foundry” list, which rivals any of London’s trendiest bars – and you’ve got a good reason to make a trip to the Bedfordshire countryside. Conrad Quilty-Harper OMilton Bryan, Bedford, MK17 9HS. 01525 210044. Reach for the stars: (clockwise from left): Venison with parsnip crumble; 25-year-old head chef Ben Murphy; monkfish with banana and red wine sauce; The Woodford’s interior

Past master: The Earl Of Bolingbroke suite and terrace (right) at Batty Langley’s


Photographs Chris Goodson; Instagram/@mollybakes

Batty Langley’s upstairs), bold (just the right side of opulent with a side order of bling) and curvaceous (each banquette is as smooth and rounded as a cosmetically enhanced pair of... well, we are almost in Essex), but it is the menu that deserves all the attention. As the charming restaurant manager William Yarney, who is also just 25, says, “We are all massive foodies here and that’s what will make The Woodford a success. We have all the right ingredients and a brilliant chef who knows what to do with them.” From a set lunch at £29 through to an eight-course tasting menu for £85, it offers pretty good value if you can bring yourself to venture all the way to E18. And if you do come, GQ recommends you try the lobster mayo with peach and fennel, Dingley Dell pork with smoked apple and an outstanding pineapple soufflé with lime sorbet. That should sustain you on your vast journey home. If, however, like your intrepid reporter, you already live in South Woodford, then just be grateful that you only have a short stroll home. And at least you won’t have to go via the casualty department like in the bad old days. O159 High Road, South Woodford, London E18. 020 8504 5952.

Old-world magic spills over in Spitalfields where traditional style belies a very modern guesthouse THERE are modern touches in the third period-inspired lodging from the duo that brought you Soho’s Hazlitt’s (1718) and Clerkenwell’s The Rookery (1764), but at Batty Langley’s (1724) you’ll struggle to find them. In keeping with its owners’ desire to re-create hospitality from another age with the comforts of the modern one, televisions are routinely hidden behind wall hangings and our extensive in-room bar was similarly obscured from immediate view (probably just as well). Furthermore, the guest bathroom requires the judicious deployment of a fake title on the otherwise real bookshelf: little secrets that together with further idiosyncrasies (such as a

freestanding marble bath and the retractable ceiling above the canopied bed) makes the Earl Of Bolingbroke suite a favourite of proposing suitors and (when successful) honeymoon first nighters. But if neither’s on the horizon, don’t delay staying at this hideaway gem in otherwise teeming Spitalfields. Granted, there’s no dining room – that’s what Shoreditch is for – but afternoon tea is served in the parlour. And the in-room breakfast is a marvel: a piping hot bacon sandwich in a just-baked roll, excellent coffee and, to settle the guilt-pangs, a perfect mixed fruit bowl. So by all means book a table at Lyle’s or Dishoom for dinner, but otherwise this is a bolthole you won’t be in a mood to leave. BP

OFrom £234 per room, per night including taxes, based on two sharing. 12 Folgate Street, London E1. 020 7377 4390. AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 61


The Queen Of Hoxton Sixties sunshine meets ice-cool millennial style on the roof of London’s newest psychedelic shack What’s the big idea? The Queen Of Hoxton’s themed rooftop bar is a nostalgic homage to the “Summer of Love”. Expect flowers, trippy visuals, interactive installations and a brightly painted treehouse, as well as scattered seating and a large bar. Tipple of choice: Toast the summer with a jam jar brimming with a dose of “The Limes They Are a Changin’”. Don’t be put off by the name – it’s retro

punch with lemon and lime-ade, fresh lime juice, lime jelly and Green Mark vodka. Deliciously refreshing. Peckish? Follow up a lamb burger with a psychedelic ice-cream sandwich, made with a scoop of saltedcaramel ice-cream from Hackney Gelato, sandwiched between a sweet rainbow bagel. It tastes better than it sounds… or looks. Turn up: Straight after work on a Friday, because the rooftop closes at ten. Remember, you are in Shoreditch, so “casual cool” is the dress code. Leave your suits at the door. So where do I go from there? Trot downstairs to the basement to continue the party with a little less natural light and a lot more music from the resident DJs, who play heavy techno and house until 2am. Fancy something lighter? Head up to the ground floor for some pop classics and R&B. Eleanor Halls

Mellow yellow: Turn up early to catch the sunset from the Queen Of Hoxton’s roof

OThe Queen Of Hoxton rooftop is open Monday to Sunday, 12pm to 10pm. £5 entry after 9pm. 1 Curtain Road, London EC2. 020-7422 0958.


It’s all gravy: The premier league of roasts THE BOTTLE

DISCIPLES of cocktail king Tony Conigliaro have always had a bit of a problem when it comes to experiencing his mixological magic first-hand... his London bars (69 Colebrooke Row and Bar Termini) are beautifully understated but don’t-try-andswing-a-cat tiny. However, there is a solution: a premiumaged blend of London dry gin, red Italian vermouth and bitters solution to be exact. Conigliaro’s Classico Negroni is cooked “sous vide”, creating a drink every bit as delicious as a bottle-aged cocktail but one that can be enjoyed straight from the freezer in a chilled glass in your own home. PH O£35.



Jones & Sons

Harwood Arms

24 Great Windmill Street, London W1.

23-27 Arcola Street, London E8.

Walham Grove, London SW6.

The setup: This subterranean bare-brick meat shack in Soho was founded by a few old hands from Hawksmoor, and in the week is a chop-centric carnivore’s dream. Sunday, however, is all about lunch in all its robust and beautiful glory... Eat this: Go “All In” – a mix of Longhorn beef, Herdwick lamb and Middlewhite pork with all the Yorkshire pudding, duck fat-roasted spuds, carrots, broccoli and bone marrow gravy you can eat (£20 per person). Drink that: Keep the Sunday lunch theme going with a Bloody Mary made from Horseradish vodka and beefy tomato juice (£5).

The setup: On the site of the former Arcola Theatre, the Dalston-based Jones & Sons is a warehouse-style restaurant specialising in “bottomless brunches”, and bountiful Sunday roasts until 7pm. Eat this: Any of the roasts are great – rib-eye beef (£17), leg of lamb (£16), pork belly (£14) or a whole chicken (£25), each heaving with all the trimmings. We’d also recommend the starters, such as the wood pigeon (£8.50) and the crispy squid (£8.50). Drink that: The Bloody Mary – with cucumber, salt and chilli flakes – is sublime (£7). For the roast, the rich Lagarde Malbec (£32) is hard to beat.

The setup: London’s only Michelinstarred pub is co-owned by the Ledbury’s Brett Graham and game specialist Mike Robinson. Offering generous portions, decadent interiors and quality ingredients, this definitely isn’t just your average pub lunch. Eat this: Start with Berkshire game faggots, then indulge in 55 day-aged rib-eye of Hereford beef with all the trimmings, including cauliflower cheese croquettes and horseradish cream (two courses for £35.50). Drink that: They have a fantastic wine list, but why not mix things up a little with a pint (or two) of Japan’s best beer, Kirin Ichiban, on tap (£4.90).

Photographs Thomas Bowles; Jody Todd; Instagram/@symmetrybreakfast

Tony Conigliaro’s Classico Negroni


Little Bat With its Wonderland theme, Little Bat claims to be as much rabbit hole as watering hole... and it almost pulls it off

Drink me: The bar at Little Bat; (left) a Sabio Ananas, made from tequila, absinthe, lime, pineapple and sage

DESCRIBING a bar whose signature cocktail involves a plastic rubber duck floating in a foamy glass sounds like the epitome of hipster hell. Yet somehow, Little Bat bar in north London makes it work. Its signature cocktail, the Bathtub Sour (£8.50), really does have a tiny rubber duck in its centre, but more importantly it is delicious – blending apricot-infused Bathtub Gin (of course), lemon juice, peach bitters and egg white for that mandatory suds style. The Pan Am is also worth a mention: it combines Bacardi Carta Blanca Rum, Aperol, lemon juice, almond syrup, egg white and Angostura spray, and helped see Bat’s head bartender, Barney Toy, through to the top three at last year’s Bacardi Legacy competition. Then again, would we expect anything less from the team behind multi-award winning bar Callooh Callay? Little Bat gets its name from a Lewis Carroll poem in Alice’s Adventures In Wonderland – “Twinkle Twinkle Little Bat” – and the décor reflects the theme (although, only slightly). There is a “hypnotising botanical garden”, but if by that they mean the three swinging flower baskets GQ spotted on leaving, they may be overstating things. Nevertheless, the main ingredients – cocktails, food and service – are a real success. As for Little Bat’s claim to offer a miniature wonderland, we don’t buy it. Where was the rabbit hole? EH O54 Islington Park Street, London N1. 020 7359 6070.


Symmetry Breakfast by Michael Zee IF you have an Instagram account, you’ll know all about @symmetrybreakfast. If you don’t, there is good news: Michael Zee, the geometric genius behind the account, has turned his passion for near-perfect breakfast design into a stunningly reflective recipe book. Despite having posted more than 900 photos, attracting over half a million followers (including Jamie Oliver), this new book features over 80 new recipes all photographed in glorious side-by-side style and made in hypnotically heart-warming tribute to his boyfriend. You’ll never look at the most important meal of the day in the same way again, and it will definitely put your usual bowl of cornflakes to shame. PH OSymmetry Breakfast by Michael Zee (Bantam Press, £14.99) is out in August AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 63


Harrogate Train: London Kings Cross to Harrogate, from £24.50 each way. Enjoy hearty breakfasts and epic afternoon teas at Bettys of Harrogate

North Yorkshire hare, parsnips, cabbage and nasturtiums at Van Zeller

Pale ales on tap at The Fat Badger (left) in Harrogate

The Majestic Hotel’s swimming pool

Time: Two hours and forty-five minutes.

“Even now, when I step from my car in Harrogate, I can feel myself relaxing.” So wrote James Herriot, author of All Creatures Great And Small. This spa town has also long been Yorkshire’s gastronomic kernel. It won’t do your diet any favours, but for top-notch produce and gargantuan portions, this genteel beacon of civility and tweed has options that far exceed its bijou size…

BRINGING a slice of Romansh to the Riding, (1) Bettys (2 Parliament Street. 01423 814 070. is a near-century-old Harrogate institution serving up epic afternoon teas and breakfasts, including a Gruyere cheese rosti topped with mushrooms, bacon and poached eggs. The impeccably attired, white-aproned waitresses have the art of Yorkshire hospitality down to a tee – expect to be called “love” and to be given a welcome so generous as to feel like you might end up on their Christmas card list just by ordering an extra coffee. For lunch, haute fireworks emanate from the tiny confines of (2) Van Zeller (8 Montpellier Street. 01423 508 762. Tom van Zeller’s innovative menu combines local ingredients with Michelin-worthy flair and invention – don’t miss the knock-out pig’s cheeks with clams, sweet potato and baby fennel – all made in a kitchen scarcely bigger than a phone box. For more rustic fare, (3) The Fat Badger (Cold Bath Road. 01423 505 681., with its huge red Chesterfields and wood-panelled walls, boasts a range of half-a-dozen local ales and some table-sagging sharing platters of smoked fish, which feature cornichons, mackerel and prawns.

19th-century heyday. Recently restored inside, the lobby has the feel of an Italian palazzo yet the afternoon tea, served in front of an immense wood fire, is a robust concoction of scones, cakes, finger sandwiches and tea so strong you could stand an entire cutlery set, let alone just a spoon, in it. Come evening time, the seductively low lighting and huge photo of Charlotte Rampling by the entrance makes it all but impossible not to be drawn into the atavistic warmth of (5) Restaurant Bar & Grill (46-48 Parliament Street. 01423 705 777. individualrestaurants. com). With its huge booth seats, impeccably sourced bovine hunks (choose from Limousin, Hereford, Aberdeen Angus or USDA Angus) this is the place to indulge your inner Don Draper. Cocktails are moreish and the service purrs like a vintage Aston Martin. Steak and cocktail joints in London and New York can only aspire to be this good. The sturdy exterior of the Regency-era country house now known as the (6) Rudding Park Hotel (Rudding Lane, Follifoot. 01423 871 350. ruddingpark. masks a chic, modern interior with an outstanding spa, colossal bedrooms and, in the Clocktower Restaurant, the rich creations of head chef Eddie Grey, which include a wood pigeon Kiev and locally sourced Holme Farm venison cutlet with king oyster mushrooms, garden chard and spinach velouté. Rob Crossan

Mashtini prosecco cocktail, skillet roast mussels (inset) and arctic salmon (below) at Restaurant Bar & Grill

The kitchen garden and library (right) at Rudding Park Hotel

H A R R O G A Royal Hall

Royal Baths



(4) The Majestic Hotel

(Ripon Road. 01423 700 300. is the last of Harrogate’s truly immense spa hotels from its 64 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Taxi: No need! The train station is located in the town centre.


nt p

ell ier

Hi ll




Free your moves Want activity tracking and music all in one cord-free device? These sports earbuds have it covered

G Partnership

Fitness tech may be the ultimate gym kit, but it can also be an unwelcome distraction: headphone wires hanging in the way, fitness tracking apps that won’t play ball and music that dies along with your phone battery. This is why Samsung’s Gear IconX earbuds are the perfect cord-free accessory, with an in-ear fitness tracker and stand-alone music player for those all-important tunes – all connecting to your mobile device via Bluetooth. You can also answer incoming calls on the go. We can feel a workout coming on...

Bluetooth technology has removed the need for cables, leaving you free to move

Keen to monitor just how hard you’ve worked? No problem. These earbuds include a fitness tracker that measures time, distance, speed, heart-rate and calories burned. They’ll even voice-guide you through your optimal heart-rate zone, helping you to push yourself harder – a great way to boost your fitness level.

In-ear fitness tracker

Cord-free design Your workout is now safe from wires. Since Bluetooth technology has removed the need for cables, leaving you free to move and really push yourself. These earbuds are designed for ultimate ear comfort, so whether you’re on a run or hitting the gym, there is nothing to hold you back.

Get in the zone with music from your phone or from the music stored directly in your earbuds – so you’re always ready for action. Once the Gear IconX earbuds are in your ear, a gentle tap is all you need to start the music. The earbud storage case acts as a charger, too. Smart.

Simple music access

Samsung Gear IconX

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GQ is the only magazine in Britain dedicated to bringing you the very best in style, investigative journalism, comment, men’s fashion, lifestyle and entertainment. British GQ is the magazine to beat 2015

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A day in the life of GQ Style’s visionary-in-chief means platinum-class music, memoirs, menswear and martinis

This month: LUKE DAY, Editor, GQ Style STIMULATION

Photographs Alamy; Nicholas Kay; Rex/Shutterstock; Jody Todd

Films: Drugstore Cowboy (above); Some Like It Hot; Out Of Africa; Death Becomes Her To read: Christopher Isherwood Diaries To read again: The Orton Diaries (below); The Richard Burton Diaries; The Life-Changing Magic Of Tidying by Marie Kondo Daily manuals: Juiceman by Andrew Cooper; Good + Simple by Hemsley + Hemsley Authors: Tom Wolfe; Bret Easton Ellis To watch: Wolf Hall; The Affair; Geordie Shore View: The Fowey Estuary from the top of Hall Walk in Polruan Magazines: Vanity Fair; ES Magazine Websites: Facebook; Ebay; Last followed on Instagram: @juddapatow (below)

STYLE AND GROOMING Jacket: Roberto Cavalli (pictured) Trainers: Gucci (above) Swimwear: Ron Dorff (above) Sunglasses: Louis Vuitton (pictured) Luggage: Globetrotter (right) Hair colourist: Jesus at Windle & Moodie Hair product: No3 by Olaplex Daytime fragrance: Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecule Evening fragrance: Halfeti by Penhaligon’s Beardcare: Oud Wood Conditioning Beard Oil by Tom Ford (right) Facials: Dr Michael Prager Skincare: Copper Amino Isolate by NIOD

GEAR Headphones: MH40 by Master & Dynamic (above) Gadget: iPhone 6 battery case by Mophie Podcast: Desert Island Discs Watch: East West by Tiffany (right) Stereo: Block Rocker M5 portable PA by ION at Curry’s (below) Kitchen: Spiralizer by Hemsley + Hemsley; Nutribullet Bathroom: Facial Cleansing Brush by Clarisonic App: CureJoy

CULTURE What’s on your stereo: Views by Drake (above) On the nightstand: I Am Pilgrim by Terry Hayes; Eclectic scented candle by Tom Dixon; Antioxidant Lip Repair by Skinceuticals (above); Intense Youth Complex cream by Hand Chemistry; magnesium tablets by Solgar Looking forward to: Narcos series two Hotel: Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum (pictured) Restaurant: Rules, London Drink: Dirty vodka martini (right) Bar: The Fumoir, Claridge’s, London (left) Beach bar: El Ancla in Santa Pola, Spain Dinner and dancing: Gitano in Tulum, Mexico Favourite album: Rumours by Fleetwood Mac


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What the Experts Say




CAMPBELL interview

I had three decent ins for an encounter with Usain Bolt. My daughter Grace had met him in a nightclub, so I had some funny photos with which to break the ice, added to which I hoped he would be impressed I was missing her birthday to see him. My friend and documentary maker Gabe Turner of The Class Of ‘92 fame, who is making a fly-on-the-wall film about Bolt to be released after the Rio Olympics, put a word in. And the people from Enertor, a new foot-hugging, shock-absorbing shoe insole that is Bolt’s latest investment venture as he transmutes from athlete to post-athletics businessman and global brand. I felt I needed these ins, having sensed from reading up on him that he could be a bit hit and miss about how much he gave of himself in interviews. Oh, me of little faith. We met at the University Of West Indies running track in Kingston, Jamaica, where Bolt is preparing for his attempt to add three more Olympic gold medals in Rio to the six won in Beijing and London. Sheltering from the searing heat in an air-conditioned caravan, as outside a small army prepared to film yet another commercial starring the fastest man on earth, barefoot Bolt, his remarkable physique on show in sleeveless running vest and shorts, was laid back, charming, funny and generous with his time. He has a rich baritone voice and a booming laugh, both of which 70 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

came in handy when he found time to join me in singing happy birthday to Grace down the phone. Meantime, we covered everything from his love for his coach to his hatred of selfies; why he prefers Ronaldo to Messi and Ali to Mayweather; why he is not getting married any time soon; his worries about his sport’s future; his hopes for Rio and beyond; and why Sebastian Coe made him promise to stay in athletics when he hangs up his spikes. Oh, and in a moment of pure bromance, he let me go where no interviewer had gone before and feel his abs. But we kicked off on the scale of his fame and superstardom, which led to the first of two displays of (modest) modesty for this self-confessed “living legend”. You’ll have to read to the end for the second one.

Photograph Hublot

Meet the world’s only peerless sportsman. As he heads to Rio in search of a seventh, eighth and ninth Olympic gold, the man who single-handedly saved athletics tells GQ about secret post-season parties, tabloid stings and why he is – for now – Jamaica’s second greatest man

ALASTAIR CAMPBELL Calm before the storm: Usain Bolt will attempt to take his Olympic gold total to nine at next month’s Rio Games

‘I am so competitive that if I know I will lose I won’t compete’ AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 71

AC: How conscious are you of being a phenomenon? UB: It’s when you start travelling to remote places – like when I was in Kenya, way out in the country – and people know you. It feels strange when it first happens. AC: Where was the last place you went to where you weren’t recognised by anyone? UB: Surprisingly, maybe the place I get recognised the least is the United States. America is not so big on track and field. Some recognise me there but lots don’t. AC: How many selfies do you reckon you’ve done? UB: A lot. Since they came in with the selfie, it’s the worst thing. You hardly ever get asked for autographs any more. It’s always selfies.

Baton charge (above): Usain Bolt poses for photographers after crossing the finish line to win the World Championships 4x100m relay in Beijing (below), 30 August 2015

Do you feel that people think they own you? AC:

UB: In Jamaica, for sure. AC: I was amazed at the part in

your book where they booed you, and Glen Mills [Bolt’s coach] told you that is how Jamaicans are. If you lose in Rio, will they boo you? UB: I don’t think they would boo me, but if they’re not happy with your performance or think you don’t care, they let you know. AC: Surely they know you care? UB: They thought I was faking an injury. A guy was pushing me hard; I strained my hamstring and felt the pain. I backed off and they booed. They were saying I thought I was going to lose and so I was pulling up as an excuse. AC: I was at the London Olympics for your finals and the whole crowd was rooting for you. Is that a good pressure or is it tough? UB: I have learned to ignore all that. When I was younger I always wanted to impress, to be good for my country, to make them feel good, and sometimes that meant I didn’t focus on myself enough. I learned I had to put myself first. And it’s fine because I want for me the same thing that they want for me, which is to win. AC: What motivates you more: a love of winning or a fear of losing? 72 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

UB: I love competing. I am so competitive. I definitely need to win because I hate losing. I am the type who if I know I will lose I won’t compete. NJ [Nugent Walker Junior, manager and best friend since school] wants to play golf all the time. He is no good but I am worse and he is always challenging me to play, but why would I want to lose? AC: Have you ever gone into a race thinking you might not win? UB: Maybe a race where I know I am not at my best and it is part of preparation for a big race. But at the big championships, then I am sure that I can do it. AC: There was a time before London when Yohan Blake was the man and you were being written off a bit. UB: The older I get, the less I am bothered by talk like that. I have total faith in my coach, total faith. AC: I can’t believe he called you an amateur after you won gold in London. UB: [Laughs.] He spotted something I did wrong and he was right.

AC: What? UB: I leaned too early. I was running,

I looked across, I realised I was going to win – the thought I was on for a world record entered my mind – I reached for the line when I should have stayed straight. AC: And that is all he saw. UB: That is him. He sees things I don’t see. There was a time my start was horrible and we couldn’t figure it out. He watched and watched and figured it was about where I was putting my arms. He saw that. He sees the little things. AC: So you’ve sorted yourself out on the food front? UB: Yes, my diet is much better. I eat what I have to. The older you get, the better you get at making sacrifices. AC: What other sacrifices do you have to make? UB: I have learned that if this is what I am going to do, and do it well, then I have to avoid drinking. The hard part for me is rest. I am a person who stays up late. If I go to bed early, I don’t sleep, but I know I have to rest. That is always a struggle for me.


Photograph Alpha Press; Barcroft Media; Getty Images

AC: What about going to clubs and

hanging out with my daughter? UB: Ah, the clubs, that’s easy to cut out, because I know when the season ends I can look forward to going out. AC: How do you see yourself now: an athlete, a brand or a business? UB: That is a good question. The more success I have with track and field the bigger my brand is. So I would say I’m more of a brand now, trying to build for the future. AC: I was at the Muhammad Ali exhibition in London this week. His legacy was not just sporting but political. Are you political? UB: No. Never have been, never will be. Politics is tricky, especially in Jamaica. There are two parties, JLP [Jamaica Labour Party] and PNP [People’s National Party], and if I went for one, I would upset supporters of the other. I stay as far from politics as I can. AC: What about religion? Your mum is very religious. Are you religious? UB: I don’t go to church so much, but I do believe in God and I understand the consequences of faith. My coach tells me I should go to church. AC: Why? UB: [Laughs.] He thinks I need to live a better life. AC: What does God mean to you? UB: I was always brought up to believe in Him, and to behave in certain ways. That is what my parents taught me and I always trust my parents. They have great values. AC: Are you still a mummy’s boy? UB: Yes. AC: Is that a Jamaica thing? UB: No, it’s a me thing. My dad was a disciplinarian so I went to her more. AC: Is he still? UB: Oh, yes, all the time. They were born in the Sixties. That was the way. AC: What was the last book you read? UB: Mike Tyson’s autobiography. AC: You’re a big Manchester United fan... UB: [Makes pained expression.] AC: What does that look signify? UB: It has been a horrible season. AC: Do you think Leicester winning the league is a good thing for football? UB: I suppose it opens up the possibilities for others to believe, but supporting Man United has been stressful, full of ups and downs, not much fun.

All that stuff about you becoming a footballer when you stop running is bullshit, yes?


United front: Usain Bolt shows his allegiance at Old Trafford, 25 August 2012

UB: I could be a footballer, but I won’t try. AC: Remember Michael Jordan switching from basketball to baseball. Disaster. UB: I wouldn’t be as bad as Jordan. I play football every Tuesday and Thursday early in the season. I am smart enough at the game. I score a lot of goals. I wouldn’t be the best in the world but I am OK. AC: Who is the best in the world? UB: I am a Cristiano Ronaldo man. AC: Is that because he played for United or because you genuinely think he is better than Messi? UB: He left United and he got even better. For Messi I feel he has to go somewhere else. The whole system at Barcelona is built around him. The coaches respect him. He runs the team. I feel he has to go to another league and play with the same dominance, then I will say, “Alright.” AC: What about the mental side? How much do you work on that? UB: I have just accepted certain things and it makes it easier. I accept I will get injured. I accept I cannot win every race. I work hard to decrease the chances of those things happening but I accept they will happen. A lot of people don’t accept it. They get injured, they go crazy. These things happen, that’s how I look at it. I have been injured every season for the past seven years. I know what it takes. AC: How much do you fear injury? UB: I am over fear. It will happen. I just hope not so late in the season in the build-up to major championships. So this season I was cautious, no chances with anything, and then I twist my ankle just walking down the stairs. Every season something happens so I programme that in; something will happen. AC: Which other sports do you look at and admire? UB: Swimming. I swim when I am injured. What the best guys do is so hard. Michael Phelps is the best.

AC: What about boxers? UB: For me it is still Muhammad Ali. AC: Not Floyd Mayweather? UB: I can’t watch a Mayweather

fight. I don’t find it exciting. I used to watch boxing in the Tyson era when it was exciting. Now it’s all bob and weave, a punch here and there. It is not entertaining. AC: Do you see it as part of your job to entertain? UB: Yes. I have to show who I am, play with the crowd, play with the camera. When people come to a race, part of it is the anticipation, “What is he going to do?” AC: Do you plan that? UB: Sometimes, yes. I might go to a country where some particular thing is happening and I can play off that. AC: Do you see anyone in athletics who can replace you? UB: Not with my personality, no. Yohan Blake, my training partner, can be a great athlete for sure. AC: Is he your tip for silver in Rio? UB: It won’t be easy. It is so hard to come back after injury. I have tried to tell him it is a hard road ahead. AC: So you could end up with nine Olympic golds to your name? UB: Could? I will. [Laughs.] AC: Are you sure? UB: As long as I am injury free. AC: But one of them, the relay, depends on others. UB: OK, let’s go for eight then. Definitely eight. AC: You’ll be 30 on the day of the closing ceremony. Is that it for you? UB: For Olympics, yes. But for running? No. AC: So you will do the World Championships again? UB: My coach doesn’t want me to talk about this kind of thing. I think he wants me to go on and on, see how far he can push me. AC: Is 30 old for an athlete? UB: Most stop around then. Physically I am fine. It is the workload every day, the training, and the more I go on, and the more success I have, the less time I have for myself, so I get tired. AC: Did Justin Gatlin really spit in your lane? UB: Yeah, 2010. I thought it was funny. That is what guys used to do, try to intimidate and stuff. But I am the fastest so how can he intimidate me? AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 73



AC: The same friends as before? UB: Friends I’ve had for a long time. AC: Can you ever imagine not living in Jamaica? UB: No. But I would try Australia. It’s always lots of fun. AC: You’ve never encountered racism there? UB: No. And the girls really like me there. AC: When are you getting married, for God’s sake? UB: “For God’s sake” – what do you mean? The thing is,

where you’re from... I’ve noticed in England once people reach a certain level they feel they have to get married. AC: Not me, unmarried bliss for 37 years. UB: So why are you trying to get me married? There’s not that same pressure here to get married and have a family as in England. There is no stress. I live my life, I enjoy it and when I am comfortable I can get married. AC: When? UB: Nearer 40 than 30.

Do women literally throw themselves at you? AC:

UB: [Laughs.] They do. You have to say no more than yes. You have to be so careful, especially in England. AC: Now you’re talking. Let’s give the British press a kicking. UB: It’s crazy there. It can be scary. They send women out, “Go get Usain Bolt.” It makes you nervous. It might be someone being nice, innocent, but you feel nervous. It’s not good. AC: How many drug tests have you had this year? UB: Nine, maybe. AC: Mo Farah told me sometimes he couldn’t pee. UB: That happened to me once, but not any more. I had just started out, didn’t really know about drug testing. I peed just before the race, and I was drug tested after and I couldn’t pee. I was there all night. I was the one who closed the stadium, I was there that long. I just wasn’t hydrated. AC: Do you have a specific routine for what you’re thinking in a race? Like second by second thinking? UB: No. It depends on what the coach wants for the race in question. He might want a certain execution. He’ll tell me when I need to drop my arms, cut the stride, and I have that in mind and that determines what I am thinking.

Run wild: Usain Bolt poses for pictures during a night out with friends in London, 27 August 2014

AC: But it’s just you in the lane.

Why isn’t it the same every race? UB: Because he knows what he

wants for each race. He tells me and I will listen. AC: When was the last time you had a sleepless night? UB: Any time I have to get up early I don’t sleep well. AC: But you’re not lying there worrying, are you? UB: Not about track and field. Maybe other things. AC: What is your resting heart rate? UB: I don’t know. I never take it. AC: Wow, I thought athletes were obsessed with it. UB: We’re not like the distance guys. I have a very simple approach. I don’t overcomplicate. People ask me, are you doing 42 steps, 44 steps for 100 metres? I don’t know. AC: It was 41 in London, wasn’t it? UB: There you go. I don’t have a clue. These things don’t bother me. I think about the technical stuff but not how many steps or what my heart rate is. AC: Can I feel your abs? UB: [Laughs.] Sure. AC: My God. That is rock hard. UB: I work on it. AC: I should be at my daughter’s birthday. Can we sing “Happy Birthday” to her down the phone? UB: No problem. Love to. AC: She’ll have to forgive me for not being there now. UB: No worries. I enjoyed that interview. Most people just ask the same stuff and it’s boring. That was good fun. I enjoyed it. AC: Last question, I promise. Greatest ever Jamaican, you or Bob Marley? UB: Bob Marley every time. He is just everything. AC: What about if you get nine gold medals? UB: Mmmm, now you’re talking. No. It is an honour to me if people even put me in the same sentence as him, let alone say I might be as great as him. I remember when I was 14, I went to race in Hungary, and I went to a concert, and they were playing Bob Marley songs, and I thought, “Wow, this guy is so special.” It’s Marley every time. Enertor insoles are worn and endorsed by Usain Bolt. Available nationwide exclusively in Superdrug from next month.

Photograph Rex

AC: So the image of the sport, the worries of the IAAF... UB: If I start to think about it, I have too much stress coming on me, Alastair. So I was saying I have to do this for myself. I need this for myself. AC: What is your current assessment of the sport? UB: Not good. It has taken a lot of batterings; there’s been a lot going on. I try to focus and compete and do positive things for the sport. AC: How well do you know Seb Coe? UB: We’ve talked a couple of times. He said to me, “You cannot leave the sport. You cannot walk away totally when you stop racing.” I agree. If he finds me something to do, to travel, educate the younger kids, motivate, I will do it. I would love that. I want to stay in the sport. I tell you one thing that makes me feel good, is when people contact me on Instagram or Facebook, kids and adults, who say, “You’re an inspiration. You make me want to work hard to achieve my goals.” If I can still do that after I retire that makes me feel good. AC: This commercial you’re making today, for Enertor, you’re actually investing in the whole thing. UB: One of the things we’re trying to do more of is not just take money from corporate partnerships, but get more involved in the business side for when I retire. So Puma are going to make me an ambassador for life. I have a clothing line coming out. I am investing a lot in housing in Jamaica, buildings for rent. AC: Do you like being wealthy? UB: I am not really in the wealthy bracket yet. AC: You are. UB: I am getting there. Who wouldn’t like it? It makes you comfortable, life is less stressful, you can be confident. I don’t buy that much, less than when I was younger. AC: How many cars do you have these days? UB: Five. AC: It used to be nine. UB: Ten. I’ve cut the fleet down. When I only had one, if it broke down, it went to the garage and I was back to taxis. So I bought another one. Then I kept on buying them. AC: So what is your guilty secret now? UB: Vacations for my friends. After the season I take my friends away.

G Partnership

C AC T U S Hailed by, Cacti are among the world’s most resilient plants, and can be found growing in relentless desert heat and cold, rocky mountain ranges. If the Atacama can keep a cactus alive, then so can you!

GET TO THE POINT Look to the sharp end of interior design with advice on cactus care and styling ideas from the greenery geniuses at

When it comes to choosing a houseplant for your contemporary decor, popularity is spiking for one variety in particular – and that’s why the cactus is Houseplant of the Month at There’s something to be said for a man who can keep a plant alive, well and looking good, but if you’re more black thumbs than green fingers then the near-indestructible cactus family should be your new best friend. Most varieties actually do better with infrequent watering – just once a month will be fine, even if the soil feels bone-dry. With some 1,800 species to choose from, there’s a bevy of shapes and sizes available, from the sprawling “rat tail” to that backdrop star of every spaghetti western, the “San Pedro”. Unlike floral houseplants, you can let the cactus do the decorative grunt work by planting it up in simple, smooth ceramic pots. So if keeping houseplants has proved a prickly subject in the past, why not make space on a sunny shelf or sill for these jewels of the desert?

Product colour, shape, interface and functions are for reference only. The actual product may vary.


Photograph by Mitch Payne Case by Louis Vuitton, £1,750.



THE MOST WANTED: Louis Vuitton was founded back in 1854 in Paris with the express purpose of making the world’s best luggage – and it takes its role very seriously. It recognises that luxury without intelligence is merely expensive, so its latest line, the Monogram Eclipse, is seriously well designed. With its three patents, superlight weight and a brand new locking system, this is what travel was made for... AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 79

Clockwise from far left: Jumper, £50. Trousers, £45. Leather jacket, £160. Jacket, £55. T-Shirt, £25. Trousers, £45. All by YMC X River Island.

YMC X River Island YMC (You Must Create) is one of London’s most successful labels and has just celebrated 20 years in the business. To mark this anniversary, founders Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins have joined forces with River Island to create an archive collection inspired by YMC’s greatest hits over the past two decades. The collaboration is part of River Island’s Design Forum initiative that was set up with the British Fashion Council to showcase the best of the nation’s talent. From zip-front cardigans to skate pants, this walk down the YMC designers’ memory lane is a perfect example of what makes British fashion great.


Whether your summer plans involve city streets, festival fields, far-flung beaches or all three, lead the pack with this month’s style update.


Shoes, £140. Jacket, £240. Both by Hunter.

C A R R E R A S U N G L A S S E S It’s as Italian as spaghetti, but just as some historians argue pasta originated in China, so Carrera started life in Austria 60 years ago. Today, however, it is an icon of Latin style, sported by Al Pacino in Scarface and Don Johnson in Miami Vice. To celebrate six decades of style, the brand is launching the 124/S, inspired by Carrera’s Boeing frames, designed in the Eighties for pilots. Sunglasses by Carrera, £139.


Photographs Matthew Beedle; Jody Todd

Arguably there is nothing more closely associated with the British summertime than Hunter wellington boots – indeed Glastonbury would be unthinkable without them. For this summer, Hunter has come up with the most stylish way to survive the vagaries of the weather with woodland-inspired prints, a great chunky lace-up boot in waterproof canvas with a rubber outsole and the perfect nylon rucksack.

Dior Homme:

Once famous for a signature black aesthetic, Dior Homme and creative director Kris van Assche have really made red, white and blue their own. Appropriately enough he has produced a limited-edition collection in this Union Jack combo to mark the opening of the spectacular new Dior flagship on London’s New Bond Street, including a butter-soft, tissue-thin leather cagoule in either navy or red. It’s the perfect excuse to celebrate entente cordiale.

From left: Briefcase, £2,000. Tie, £125. Card holder, £230. All by Dior Homme.

PAUL SMITH TOTE: When travelling, nothing works better when going from the boarding gate to the beach bar than a tote. Roomy, adaptable and cool. One word of warning: keep passports and wallets in a separate small bag or you may spend more time diving in the bag than the water. Bag by Paul Smith, £895.

T i m b e r l a n d : The boat shoe is the indispensable summer shoe, whether on the city streets or the beach. Timberland has been producing its iconic boat shoe since the Seventies and has given it a new lease of life with a collection that boasts new materials, such as suede and canvas, and a rainbow of fresh new colours from tangerine to teal. Shoes by Timberland, £105.



One of the arguments used to encourage investing in watches has always been that, unlike, say, cars, a quality timepiece doesn’t immediately lose value the minute you leave the shop. To be fair, Rolexes have always been among the best investments – as shown by the Phillips watch auction in Geneva in May, which saw a new record auction price for Rolex – £1.6 million for a 1942 split-seconds chronograph. However, our pick for your investment of the future is this stunning 2016 Daytona in yellow gold with a green dial. £23,200.


The classic Seamaster Bullhead (the name refers to the unusual case shape) was originally released in 1969 and used by rally drivers to time laps. This latest iteration has a coaxial movement (see below) and celebrates the 2016 Rio Olympics. It comes on a blue leather strap with stitching in yellow, green, red and black to represent the Olympic rings, a theme continued on the inner bezel. Only 316 pieces will be produced, marking 2016 as the third time golf has been an Olympic sport. £5,900.


It may have been founded in 1931 in the Jura, but Louis Erard has only just made it to these shores and it is high time we realised what we have been missing. For a quality Swiss mechanical watch, Louis Erard offers a lot of bang for your buck. We are particularly taken by this handsome 1931 Calendar Moonphase, which is very keenly priced. £1,930.


Wherever you are in the world, keep track of the time back home with the double readout on Louis Vuitton’s first-class new watch.

TRUE TO its heritage as the maker of trunks, packing cases and the rest of the paraphernalia of international travel, Louis Vuitton has always prized and promoted its credentials as a voyageur’s best friend. Now it reveals its latest go-anywhere timepiece: a brand new design that resolves the need for a GMT function (allowing the wearer to read off a second time zone) with the desire to wear something elegant and distinctive. That distinction comes from the prominent V device that hinges the dial between home time and the day/night second time zone indicator – a tribute to company founder Louis Vuitton’s grandson Gaston-Louis – and is picked up in the arrowhead hour hand. The scallop-sided case is also new, harbouring echoes of the house’s classic Tambour model, yet refining still further the slim, contemporary style of last year’s big launch, the LV Fifty Five. (It’s worth noting, too, that La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s signature complication, the Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève, shares the same case design.) An automatic mechanical movement completes the package, with a choice of a house leather taurillon strap or steel bracelet. BP GMT Louis Vuitton, £4,500.

W H AT I S A C OA X I A L E S C A P E M E N T ? Invented in 1974 and patented in 1980 by the brilliant British watchmaker George Daniels and considered to be one of the most significant horological advances in a century, the coaxial escapement was first mass-produced by Omega in 1999. The traditional lever escapement uses teeth to regulate the rate the hands move (creating the classic “ticking” sound), but the coaxial functions with a system of three “pallets”, greatly reducing friction and allowing greater accuracy over time.


Photographs Getty Images; Rex

In double time: The GMT Louis Vuitton has a day/ night alternate time zone indicator

1. Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau Aquatimer Chronograph by IWC, £5,500. 2. Hydroscaph H1 Chronometer by Clerc, £3,990.


3. Navy Seal Colormark 3050 Series watch by Luminox, £295. 4. Prospex Kinetic Divers watch by Seiko, £479. 5. Inox Professional Diver watch by Victorinox, £449. 6. Dive watch by Gucci, £620. 2 3




TOP BUOYS: Look beneath the surface for this adventurous array of new diver’s watches. Photograph by Mitch Payne



Alessandro Michele heralds a new age of masculinity with an idiosyncratic blend of maximalist modernity and heritage flair. Witty, wise and a whole lot of fun, join the style revolution where more is definitely more.

ONCE EVERY FEW years, a designer comes along who seems to define the zeitgeist – shifting the entire conversation about fashion along. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele seems to be one of those designers. Under his guidance, Gucci has enjoyed a spectacular renaissance. His Seventies’ stylings just seem, well, right for right now. The sense of gender fluidity has helped make menswear more exciting, ensuring men are no longer left in the wings while women enjoy all the fashion limelight. Michele’s personal touch can be seen on Gucci’s latest line in tailoring. As ever, you can expect razor-sharp Italian cuts, but the silhouette has a Bowie beat, circa Pin Ups in 1973, with fitted jacket and hip-skimming flares. Think it’s not for you? Think again. As we approach the 100thanniversary of the lounge suit – as sported by Italian prime minister Vittorio Orlando at the 1919 Paris peace conference – it’s time we should feel confident about taking risks. After all, if it was good enough for David in 1973, it’s good enough for us now. RJ

Clockwise from left: Bag, £1,250. Sunglasses, £230. Watch, £1,100. Belt, £260. Slippers, £515. All by Gucci.


Model Jake Love at Select Grooming Kim Roy at One Represents using Tom Ford Beauty and Bumble And Bumble

Photograph by Mike Blackett Jacket, £1,180. Trousers, £550. Jumper, £365. Shoes, £440. All by Gucci.

Photographs by Jody Todd Styling by Grace Gilfeather

Linen suit by Hugo Boss, £500. Sweatshirt by Handvaerk, £295. Pocket square by Hugo Boss, £35.

Since the ancient Egyptians wrapped their mummies in it, linen has been one of the most popular textiles in history. It is particularly associated with summer thanks to the fact that it feels cool to the touch and has the ability to absorb and lose moisture rapidly. It is particularly comfortable when the weather is humid – unlike cotton, which may end up feeling unpleasantly damp. Another advantage is that it improves with age, becoming softer the more it is worn and washed. The downside is that it has poor elasticity, meaning that it creases easily – though modern weaving methods plus judicial blends with other fibres means that this is often less of a problem today than before. The best thing about linen is its versatility. Pair a navy blue linen suit with a crisp white shirt, bright silk tie and a pair of hand-polished monk-straps and you have the perfect summer wedding outfit. For a more Miami vibe, match an ecru or stone suit with a pair of Persols and a white crew-neck tee and you are as laid-back as you like. Soft-top is optional. For the perfect travel uniform, a double-breasted linen blazer worn with jeans and car shoes (sans socks) will take you from business lounge to beach in style. RJ

JM WESTON LOAFERS The socks are off for summer and these orange calfskin loafers by JM Weston call out for a flash of a tanned ankle. £420.


Thanks to new anti-crease technology, there really is nothing smoother than linen in summer. Invest in the two-piece that will never let you down. Photographs by Jody Todd Styling by Grace Gilfeather


Jacket by Bally, £1,950. T-shirt by Sunspel, £60. At Chinos by Private White VC, £195.

Jacket by Raey, £995. T-shirt by Sunspel, £60. Both at

Jacket, £1,030. Sweatshirt, £230. Both by Paul Smith.

Photograph by Mike Blackett. Styling by Grace Gilfeather


Leather used to be considered a winter warmer but now suede is the coolest way to hide yourself this summer. A perfectly versatile material for the unpredictable British weather, it can cover every price point and is rapidly becoming a wardrobe staple. Tan is perhaps the most versatile colour but black is always hip. So, no arguments, it’s time to get suede. Just ensure you treat before use with a quality suede protector. 86 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

THE NECK’S BEST THING If you are going to dress in a cool summer suit you don’t want to have a heavy tie around your neck, so when the temperature rises look out for cotton ties. These are best worn semi-casually – so don’t pair with power pinstripes. Instead, wear with linen, seersucker and a chambray shirt. RJ

Model Alex Dunstan at Select Grooming Kim Roy at One Represents using Tom Ford Beauty and Bumble And Bumble

Jacket by Hackett, £1,200. Shirt by Massimo Dutti, £40.

Top hat (left): The ledger for Admiral Nelson’s Lock & Co bicorne as worn at the Battle Of Trafalgar Shirt by Turnbull & Asser, £175.

Bag by DSquared2, £585.


Dean and Dan Caten may be best known for their label’s high-octane playfulness, but deep down these Toronto boys are as Canadian as maple syrup and Labatt Blue. Of course, the twins’ take on classic Canuck style has a strong sense of fun, such as brightly coloured versions of walking boots and repurposed outdoorswear. We particularly like this collection of oversized lumberjack plaid on accessories and shoes. And we do love a little Rockies’n’roll. RJ

Photographs Jody Todd

Hat by DSquared2, £145.

Trainers by DSquared2, £280.

From far left: Tie by Hugo Boss, £65. Tie by Eton, £75. At Harvey Nichols. Tie by Givenchy, £130. At Selfridges. Tie by Brioni, £150.


For centuries, London’s grandest district has also been its greatest for kings of style.

FOR ME, ONE OF THE BEST shopping locations in the entire world is St James’s in London. Situated right in the middle of some of the most visited spots in the city, it packs a really stylish punch and maintains all of the Great British charm and character that you’d expect from somewhere within spitting distance of Buckingham Palace (although I strongly advise that you don’t actually expectorate). From Piccadilly Circus across to Trafalgar Square, St James’s Park by way of The Mall, over to Green Park and back to where you just started, it’s one of the most densely packed areas of luxurious shopping, dining and entertainment London has to offer. Museums, galleries, theatres and cinemas will keep you amused, while places to eat ranging from casual bars to The Ritz will fulfil your appetite. When it comes to menswear, there’s a very strong presence of some of the oldest and greatest British brands, with stores such as Barbour, Dunhill and Sunspel to name just a few. There’s so much history in St James’s that my tiny mind struggles to comprehend the time that’s passed since some of the stores, still around today, were founded. In the 1660s, hatmakers, Lock & Co set up shop. Since then their products have adorned the heads of some of the most well-known figures the world has witnessed. They made Admiral Nelson’s iconic bicorne, Winston Churchill’s top hat (as well as Sooty’s, as in Sooty and Sweep) and even resized the Queen’s crown for her coronation. In years past and still to this day, Jermyn Street is the place to get your shirts made. Royalty, celebrities and many a James Bond still visit Turnbull & Asser to get measured up. I’ve even been there myself. Many of the other establishments have similarly rich lineages dating back hundreds of years and you’d be forgiven for thinking that such a place would be set in its ways, reluctant to move with the times. But you’d be wrong. The world of fashion has moved incredibly quickly and St James’s has been hot on its heels. They’ve embraced social media and play a key part in London Collections Men. Each season Jermyn Street hosts a very sophisticated event that includes a fashion show styled by GQ’s Fashion Editor Grace Gilfeather, to showcase the best that St James’s has to offer. I’m honoured to be involved too. The moral of this story is “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, but you absolutely must move with the times. Having history and expertise can only come with time, dedication and passion, but the world is moving fast and it’s never been more important to engage on every level in order to garner a fresh audience. If it weren’t for the foresight of areas such as St James’s, so much of that history could be lost. And that would be a tragedy. The right lines: Mr Slowboy draws Lock & Co’s classic Panama hat For more information visit


Sandals by Birkenstock, £65. T-shirt by J Crew, £40.

You once dictated that “double cuffs” were for eveningwear only. I own plenty of both French-cuffed shirts and cufflinks, but would never bust them out for the office and was wondering if this rule still applied. Shane Rae, via email

Never use the term “French cuff”. It is a dreadful Americanism and drips with mock sophistication. I have never pronounced that double cuffs are for evening only, though it’s true I only wear them with a dinner jacket. However, a quick poll of the office reveals my colleagues are broadly in agreement with me, so Shane’s position may be correct by default. There are several reasons for this. First, it is too much of a faff every morning to worry about anything sartorial. Second, there is something rather ageing about cufflinks – they smack of hearty Sloanes who think it is clever to behave like PG Wodehouse characters. It isn’t. Cufflinks are also a bit too banker. But it was Bill Prince, our dapper Deputy Editor, who came up with one of the best reasons to avoid a double cuff: dirt. After a hard day in the office, a turned-back cuff will have a revolting tidemark that will soon become so ingrained that no amount of detergent will ever shift it. Having said all that, one of the few benefits of getting older is that you mellow with age, so my mantra now is if you really want to wear double cuffs in the daytime no one should stop you.


I have decided to spend this summer travelling through Europe, making stops at each of the continent’s top cities. As I will be constrained to travelling light, I was wondering how to make the most of the space in my backpack with a wardrobe that covers the basics. Robert Duncan, via email

CLEVER PACKING has never been one of my greatest strengths. Indeed, I recently went around Pembrokeshire in a Seventies VW camper van (highly recommended by the way) and I think I wore less than a third of what I took, suits not being required in the pub in St Davids. My top tips, however, are as follows. Pack dark colours, as you will get more wear out of them. Wear Birkenstocks whenever possible, as they are by far the most comfortable footwear, are particularly light and don’t require any sort of sock. Swimming shorts such as Orlebar Brown’s are brilliant because you can wear them in town and in the water. If you are worried about getting cold, I would recommend a reversible Aspesi flannel and shell shirt. These pack down to nothing, are incredibly warm and the shell side is waterproof. I also find striped T-shirts – check out versions by Officine Générale or J Crew – are incredibly versatile.

I have a problem with T-shirts, plain white ones specifically. They are great in theory but never seem to stay in shape. I’ve tried many different brands and many different ways of washing them. Any suggestions? Richard C, via email

Richard goes on to say his staple wardrobe consists of Acne jeans, Sunspel boxers, Falke socks and, of course, the white tee. To keep his tees in shape he claims to have tried everything from a range of brands to different washing cycles and drying methods but nothing seems to work.


Somehow I doubt he is being completely honest, as in my experience the better quality the T-shirt the harder-wearing it will be – if it feels light and flimsy, it ain’t going to last more than a couple of washes. Personally, I favour Sunspel, as I have always found it reliable for all things cotton jersey. And, again, personally I would avoid “stretch” T-shirts as I find them uncomfortable to wear – especially in the heat, if you get my drift. So always read the label and look out for mercerised or pima cotton, as these will make for pieces that are more likely to last the course. You may also want to try the American brand Velva

Bag by Herschel Supply, £75. At Urban Outfitters. urban outfitters. com

Sheen (available from stores such as the marvellous Bureau in Belfast). These are tubular in construction so have no seams. They were also favourites of the Marine Corps, so are used to taking a pounding. When washing your T-shirts, try to wash whites together on a low temperature – 30C should be hot enough. If you are worried about discolouration give them a good soak in Vanish before washing (or opt for biological washing powder). I think T-shirts benefit from a tumble dry, as it keeps them in shape. Finally, remember that basics will not last forever so be prepared to buy in bulk if you seek continual perfection.

Cufflinks by Hugo Boss, £59.

Photographs Jody Todd


T-shirt by Sunspel, £60.


Pitch up (from left): Geoffrey Kent on safari in 2014; in 1959, aged 16, Kent rode from Nairobi to Cape Town; Botswana and Easter Island are Abercrombie & Kent destinations

Around the world in 80 ways From facing lions with Richard Burton to ice-driving with Mika Häkkinen, Nick Foulkes meets the world’s most ingenious travel agent. “ONE EVENING with Richard Burton we pulled into camp. I was getting him a drink at the bar in the mess tent when there was a huge roar and lots of screaming. There were seven lionesses all over a buffalo in the middle of the camp. We always had a fire going and Richard Burton was out looking at it. I upended the table, all the crystal glass, all the porcelain flew off and we barricaded ourselves behind it, watching these lionesses eating the buffalo. He said, ‘Wow, can we do that again sometime?’ He thought I’d set it up!” If the travel business ever dried up, Geoffrey Kent could put on a one-man show – he is a raconteur par excellence. From Waughesque tales of his Happy Valley upbringing in Kenya to telling how, as a young captain in the British army, he trained a promising Libyan soldier called Gaddafi, the Kent in Abercrombie & Kent knows how to enthrall. But then, as the king of the five-star safari, it could be argued that this has been his business for the last half century, since he borrowed his mother’s Asprey ice bucket, got hold of a Bedford truck and invented the luxury safari. Of course, he still does Africa but, these days, a week watching lions as you sip a perfectly shaken Martini on the terrace of your ensuite, air-conditioned “tent” is just the entry level.

His latest thing is “Inspiring Expeditions”, roundthe-world private jet tours that cost £105,000 a seat. His clients regard it as absurdly good value for money. “Three of these guys who came on the last one own their own G5 jets and said that to do this on their own would cost them well over £1 million,” he says. But Ryanair it isn’t. Kent is a perfectionist. He spent two years developing not just his own blend of Arabica coffee but his own espresso machine with Illy for the Abercrombie & Kent 757. And you will need a good supply of espresso if you are going to keep up the pace on the sorts of itineraries that Kent cooks up. His inaugural round-the-world tour in a specially fitted Boeing 757 began in Miami then went to the Upper Amazon, Easter Island, Samoa, Papua New Guinea and then on to Bali, where they chartered another smaller plane and flew to join the yacht that took them to look at the dragons on Komodo Island. Then it was on to Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Nairobi, the Masai Mara “where we had an amazing last three days and from there we flew back to Monte Carlo”. Of course. For time-poor travellers he has come up with ten day trips, one of which, an expedition to see the Northern Lights, leaves in early 2017. “We’ll fly straight into northern Norway from London. We’re building these amazing domes, from which you’ll be able to watch the Northern Lights. Mika Häkkinen is going to come and teach us how to race cars on ice. We’re going to have an ice concert in an ice temple. We’re going to have snowmobiles that go at 60mph...” ‘Three guys on I ask how he came up with the itinerary the last trip and the answer is simple. “I wanted to see own their own the Northern Lights.” Indeed, he is his own jets. To do toughest customer. “I want to go to all the this on their most unusual places on earth. I’ve travelled own would 12 million miles and been to 170 countries. cost them well Now I want to go to all the places I haven’t over £1 million’ been.

S A FA R I E S S E N T I A L S Make every journey an adventure with travel pieces inspired by the great outdoors

From left: Bag by Gladstone London, £850. gladstonelondon. com. Wallet by Burberry, £495. At Boots by Brunello Cucinelli, £750. brunello Card holder by Valextra, £180. At Harvey Nichols.



Luke Leitch

GQ’s Contributing Fashion Editor meets the man behind Orlebar Brown’s journey from shorts to its first autumn/winter collection. WHAT IS ORLEBAR BROWN? Had you asked that question a decade ago you’d have every excuse to have no clue; today it’s one of the fastest-growing labels in British menswear. First though, rewind: in 2006 Adam Brown was cloistered in Earls Court, locked in the early stages of turning the insight that had hit him while idling by a Rajasthani swimming pool into a business. There the photographer had realised that while his female friends looked pretty well put together, the guys were a shambles – all ballooning board-shorts and dodgy logo tees. To look respectable at lunch, all of them, including Brown, needed to get changed. It gave Brown the inkling that he’d spotted a niche. This was for Polo shirt, £85. Trousers, £195. Swim shoes, £95. All by Orlebar Brown.


Snap happy: Orlebar Brown’s app allows you to design your own shorts; (far left) Jack Guinness models the Gieves & Hawkes collaboration

what he characterises as “swimwear that’s tailored and smart: shorts you can swim in”. He partnered with Julia Simpson-Orlebar (a friend and lawyer, who stepped away from the venture in 2008) and – long story short – proved his hunch correct. OB’s swim shorts – designed by Brown in three lengths, made of polyamide, and with a fitted waistband cinched by flashy metal sidefasteners instead of sloppy drawstring or elastic – would redefine the category. Yes, they’re expensive; a basic pair of single-colour Bulldogs costs £145 today. This rises to £395 for the same shorts (or one of its different-length variants) custom-printed with a photograph of your own choosing, which you upload via the OB #SnapShorts app. That’s a hefty spend for a pair of swimmers – yet the world is full of men who want to look good on the beach and for them the shorts are worth it. Go surf and you see the shorts still get star billing. “Swim remains the hero”, says Brown. However, today there are also hundreds of other pieces to choose from, of which not everything is specifically poolside, boaty or beach bound. OB branched out into ready-to-wear several years ago (I always bang on about its fantastically cut Griffon trousers and terrycloth polos) and has convincingly exported its core context – Brown calls it “Sunshine, travel, good times” – into a versatile range you could see functioning perfectly well in a smart-casual office environment. Or down the pub. Today, Brown’s office space is no longer a Starbucks (from where he sold his first pair of shorts in October 2006) but a sprawling facility under the Westway. There is a rather fine new collaboration with Gieves & Hawkes, plus an imminent new store opening that will bring the total up to 13. Then there are some new, fully waterproof, £95 swim-shoe sneaker hybrids that OB revealed at Pitti in January and a new sunglasses line. All of this adds up to a The world is full brand that still defines itself by its shorts, of men who want but which has grown beyond them: today to look good on only 30 per cent of Orlebar Brown’s total the beach and for sales are swimwear. them the price of Soon, Brown will reveal his company’s Orlebar Brown first ever autumn/winter collection. Its shorts is worth it inspiration came while he was on holiday in Bhutan. Brown and his friends had all turned up to trek – accoutred in newly purchased technical “active” gear. But it really wasn’t all that cold. “By the fourth day we all came out in lightweight jackets, long-sleeve T-shirts, chinos with a bit of stretch – basically the stuff we wear at the weekend in London. We were hiking in the clothes we’d brought to travel in.” Hence the revelation: that if you don’t need to wear bells and whistles tech-apparel in Bhutan, why would you want to anywhere else? This time around Brown has delegated the job of realising his hunch to design director James McAra. Expect urbane, pared down, more-smart-than-casual gear. Winter might be coming to Orlebar Brown, but its founder insists that its soul remains summer-bound – that, after all, is the defining mantra of the brand. And a new guarantee commits the company to replacing or repairing any swim short that fails to satisfy within five years of purchase, all helping to equip Orlebar Brown for a long-haul journey to international success.

G Partnership

THE MAN BEHIND LE MANS Andy Priaulx – one of the UK’s most successful drivers outside F1 – explains why competing for Ford in the FIA World Endurance Championship is the ultimate challenge If you want to understand the mental and physical demands of endurance driving, there are few better people to ask than Andy Priaulx. Over a 20-year career he’s won almost everything, including three World Touring Car titles. Still based in his native Guernsey, he’s now with Ford Chip Ganassi Racing and is part of the team taking Ford back to Le Mans 50 years after the company’s historic 1-2-3 finish there with the GT40 MkII. “You need everything,” Priaulx explains. “You need upper body strength to wrestle the car around the corners. You also need a high level of cardio and in endurance racing you’ve got very fast driver changes, which means good flexibility.” The physical demands are considerable. Priaulx manages an hour of cardio a day, split between cycling and running. He then hits the gym for 40 minutes, focusing on exercises that replicate the action of repeatedly turning a weighted steering wheel as well as protecting the lower back which, like all drivers, suffers from repeated compressions. Yet, above all, Priaulx, 42, believes that it’s mental strength that separates podium finishers from the rest in a competition which features such epic tests as the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the 6 Hours of Nürburgring. He should know. A veteran of most forms of racing, Priaulx’s career shifted up a gear when he discovered the Silva Method of mind training, a type of visualisation.

‘ I can snap into this zone where I’m aware of everything around me’

Endurance training: Andy Priaulx has developed a programme of mental and physical preparation to help him on race day

“I can snap into this zone where I’m aware of everything around me,” he explains. “I’m hugely concentrated when I’m in the zone. But I’ve spent 15 to 20 years working on that through meditation.” As a big race nears, Priaulx will focus on hydration – “You can’t leave it until race day, that’s useless” – and reducing his carbohydrate intake. “For me, heavy carbs hurt my concentration,” he reasons, “so I increase my protein intake, smoothies and similar.” No matter how well he prepares, once the race is done, the exhaustion is overwhelming. “I don’t think I’ve ever felt as tired as when I’ve finished Le Mans,” he says. “By 6pm I’m struggling to keep my eyes open!” Watch Andy Priaulx prepare for Le Mans at

THE THICK OF IT Boost thinning hair with two thickening formulations from Aveda Invati. The shampoo and revitaliser thicken the hair at the root for a fuller look. Nourishing exfoliating shampoo, £25.50 for 250ml. Scalp revitaliser, £45 for 125ml. Both by Aveda Invati.


You wouldn’t skip a phone upgrade, so why wouldn’t you invest in smarter grooming? There’s a brand new generation of grooming gadgets that are designed for quality and durability – and they look good too. The latest tech innovations deliver improved performance, which means better results and fewer hours spent in front of the mirror. Isn’t it time you brought your grooming regime into 2016? Face the future with five cutting-edge grooming tools. EDITED BY


FaceGym Pro Now you can give your face a home work-out. The FaceGym Pro device uses EMS (electrical muscle stimulation) to exercise the thousands of small muscle fibres in your face. It works to tighten the jawline and the diamond-faceted probes allow it to cover more surface area. An odd, but not unpleasant feeling. What’s good? Professional treatment at home. What could be better? It looks a bit like a vibrator. Stick it in the hold to avoid any embarrassment at airport security. £399. At Harrods.

Photographs Jody Todd

OneBlade by Philips The OneBlade is Philips’ first disposable razor. It is neither a shaver nor a trimmer, and is designed with styling in mind. The head has four clip-on combs that transform the razor into a precision edging device. Used wet or dry it gives the same results and we found it snagged less than some manual razors. What’s good? Smart design and very smooth to use. What could be better? The small head means that a full clean shave takes longer and requires more strokes. The refill blades aren’t cheap (£12 each, £20 for two) in comparison to standard disposable razors. £35.

Beard trimmer by Braun The Braun styling range has had a complete

overhaul, with emphasis on functionality. The beard trimmer has a long battery life, can be used wet or dry and is easy to clean, being fully washable. The dial and guard lock ensure precision lengths using two combs for stubble and longer beards. It also achieves the Holy Grail of beard trimming – uniform length with no patchy bits. What’s good? The guard works so you won’t lose chunks of your beard. What could be better? The battery life indicator flashes red when running low – a

percentage gauge would be more instructive. £49.99.

Genius 9000 toothbrush by Oral-B Routine brushing is a hard habit to unlearn if you are doing it wrong. Whether left or right-handed, chances are you regularly miss whole sections of your teeth and gums. To combat this, Oral-B presents the Genius. Sync your brush and phone with the app. Using facial recognition, the brush plots

your entire mouth to ensure you are cleaning properly. It also flashes a warning light if you are brushing too hard. Comes with a moveable wall mount for your phone. What’s good? Simple to use, incredibly effective. What could be better? You still have to floss. Sorry. £280.

Supersonic hairdryer by Dyson Dyson made vacuuming sexy. Can it do the same for hairstyling? James Dyson

set out to create a super-light, silent hairdryer with sensitive temperature control to prevent heat damage. It’s eight times faster than other models – great news for impatient stylists – and the motor is in the handle, not the head, so it’s weighted for stability. What’s good? Dyson products are built to last; this one won’t be going to landfill anytime soon. What could be better? Currently only available in pink or white. £300.


The G Preview:August E D I T E D BY




Horizon fragrance by Davidoff, 75ml for £45. At Boots. 2 Shoes by Jones Bootmaker, £129. 3 Watch by Urban Jurgensen, £25,500. 4 Shirt by Remus Uomo, £49. 5 Swim shorts by Orlebar Brown, £225. 6 Ties by The Kooples, £85 each. Bag by Bottega Veneta, £2,315. 8 Jacket by Topman, £70. 9 Sunglasses by Calvin Klein, £165.


Photographs Jody Todd Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur

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Photograph Mitch Payne

Skateboards by Philipp Plein For those who are forever seeking the most extraordinary things in life – that special extra, if you will – it would be nearly impossible to suggest a better fit than Philipp Plein. This season, join the German designer in his celebration of modern “hip-rock” aesthetics – communicated through the use of biker-style details, bold graphic prints and striking studs – and obtain instant rock-star status with these eccentric crocodile printed and studded leather skateboards. Skateboards, from £700. Both by Philipp Plein.



Flip flops by Havaianas, £22.

Sunglasses by Swatch, £62.

Trainers by Aldo, £75. Es Saadi Gardens & Resorts, Rue Ibrahim El Mazini, Marrakech, Morocco. Carry-on suitcase by TUMI, £475.

How to Pack for a weekend away Around this time of the year, we could all do with a break, so why not pack your bags for a relaxing weekend overseas? This month, we’ve edited the ultimate essentials for a sunny weekend away, bearing in mind you need to travel light but – of course – in effortless style. This carry-on suitcase from TUMI’s new V3 range – its lightest-ever collection – together with Tommy Hilfiger’s new TH Flex travel suit is a great starting point. Not only will the suit keep your look wrinklefree on the plane, but it will also be the perfect option for a night out at your destination. If you’re looking for a relaxing weekend in the sun, the Es Saadi resort in Marrakech could be the one for you. With a flight time just under three hours – but enough culture to feel you’ve gone further afield – it ticks all of our city break boxes. Boasting a picturesque 20-acre garden and views of the Atlas Mountains, there’s not much left to wish for. On a day at the swimming pool, go for a sharp pair of printed Michael Kors swim shorts and some printed Havaianas. Wear it with Swatch’s new retro-style sunglasses and this classic Vilebrequin polo shirt that, together with these crisp white Aldo sneakers, is perfect to wear at night with the Tommy Hilfiger suit for a more casual look, too. Opt for a versatile timepiece that works from day to night, like the Nomos Glashütte “Ahoi Datum” watch we currently have on our radar. Take all of this on board, and Swim shorts by Michael Kors, £70. At Harrods. you’ll be ready for take off.


TH Flex suit by Tommy Hilfiger, £500.

Watch by NOMOS Glashütte, £2,960.

Polo shirt by Vilebrequin, £140.


MONEY JUN 23, 16




2016 NOV 3-4, 16






H E A LT H M A R 9, 1 7




Stuck in the middle: Nimrod Kamer wearing a hi-vis suit designed by Velsvoir founders Talha (left) and Zak Timol

Photograph Wolf Gaertner

Visibly cool In search of a bespoke statement outfit versatile enough to take you from a cycle commute to a dinner party at Chequers (via a gun battle)? Enter Velsvoir, with a hi-vis three-piece suit so striking you’ll be resplendent in fluorescent whatever the occasion S TO RY BY



100 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

The hi-vis suit is baroque yet practical, elusive yet encroaching

It was all yellow: Nimrod Kamer takes the prototype hi-vis three-piece suit for a spin around London’s streets

ensemble with all the retro-reflective elements is pretty much undo-without-able. It will allow you to avoid indiscriminate rifle fire. Chicago’s South Side (known as “Chi-Raq”), for example, is a rough place for a dinner party. In essence, to paraphrase the NRA slogan, the only thing stopping a bad guy with a gun is a good guy with a hi-vis suit. The speed of light bouncing off you is faster than the speed of a bullet and the speed of sound. Also, when a fire breaks out, you could be the one signalling the firefighters into the blaze. British-Dubai designers Talha and Zak Timol have made a prototype of one yellow dapper fluorescent suit, blazer 34 inch, trouser 30 inch, ad hoc, for this story. I have told them about the concept and the suit’s potential and they managed to find the right regulated ISO fabric. Their brand, Velsvoir, is known to have dressed the staff at Sketch, Library members’ club and Hotel Café Royal. Long velvet bow ties and thick lapel waistcoats are some of their trademarks. Now with the vis they may carry on and create green and blue types to accompany the yellow, in a few different styles. Another idea came up that they’ll dress four models with the suit and have them cycle around London mayor Sadiq Khan, inspiring him to make the suit a standard City Hall staff uniform. Eventually they want to show different light wavelengths and intensity-vis satin with tie selection in Fashion Forward Dubai, Tel Aviv Fashion Week and then, for a climax, LCM 2017. In understanding how to make these cutting-edge designs, one must take notice of EN471, which is the European standard for hi-vis clothing. Its history matters, too. Experimental use of hi-vis apparel began in 1964 on the Scottish lines of British Railways. Fluorescent orange jackets were issued to track workers on the first electrified rail sections in Glasgow. Later, train drivers were asked their opinion on the effectiveness of the jacket and in 1965 it became a norm for engineers working on London Midlands trains. No one was left to doubt the imperativeness of hi-vis everywhere, due to new speed. The first version was visible at half a mile in normal weather conditions. These days, EN471’s Class One defines the lowest visibility level with five-centimetre reflective bands around each leg. Class Two defines an intermediary visibility level with two five-centimetre bands of reflective around the body to brace both shoulders. This class is used for motor vehicles in France. Class Three defines the highest level of visibility: a jacket with long sleeves plus trouser suit. Class Three should be worn when working within 1.2 metres of a highway with traffic moving in excess of 50 kilometres per hour. This suit is definitely Class Three. Phew.

Photographs Wolf Gaertner

ondon is the mecca of men’s fashion, CCTV, construction, debt, restricted access, members’ clubs, Getty Images, Uber Exec drivers on surge and Wonga. It’s hard to embody all these features into one offline persona. But if it were possible, what would this person look like? What could be the biggest garment statement of this era, given the above? When push comes to posh comes to crunch, the only way to define oneself in this metropolis is wearing a three-piece bespoke suit made of hi-vis jacket material. Either orange or yellow. This suit would be baroque yet practical, elusive yet encroaching. One of its main features is penetration. Like parkour, the city becomes your building ground. The shiny fabric alongside the reflective stripes can give you the veneer of a construction worker, arriving at the ball to fix a broken lift. The people in charge of the guest list will wave you in immediately, as they see you carry a screwdriver and carpenter tools with the suit. Other guests will understand in two seconds that this is actually a well thought-out outfit. You will be the pulsar of the soirée. Before this suit existed, social climbers had to wear a hi-vis jacket alone and a hard hat, on top of a tuxedo, to enter events and galas. When inside they were forced to find a bin to dump the hi-vis equipment into, and look like other guests, in case they were to be searched. Bafta-winning BBC Three show The Revolution Will Be Televised featured many of these attempts, done by Heydon Prowse and Jolyon Rubinstein. They snuck into everything from the lord mayor’s banquet to dinner parties at Chequers. A hi-vis dapper attire would’ve allowed them to confront crooked politicians and hedge-fund managers with less façade and much more ease and adaptability. For those with an invite, this retro-reflective dress-up has other essential uses. For instance, cycling. Urban wedding guests can arrive casually down the aisle wearing the suit plus a matching road helmet and glowing trench coat. While pedalling with the full set you’d clearly be more visible to drivers as opposed to wearing just the vest. At the ceremony, even if you are the groom, walk straight in with the helmet. Here comes the visible star of the party. If it’s too much just wait till the neon light goes on during the slow-dance session. The ladies would be blinded by you. A suit such as this is only good if it has a proper amount of dirt on it from the ride and will be better appreciated for it. A dirty hi-vis is like a Bialetti Moka Express that’s never been cleaned. More so, the blaze orange-yellow cloth rejects sweat and moisture. A perfect small talk vehicle. In areas around the world where gun violence is high, a fluorescent green garish

Summer selection




Innovation, premium ingredients and a dash of French flair make Grey Goose’s new cocktail the quintessential taste of the perfect summer The smoothest of flavours created for the most memorable summer moments. Le Grand Fizz is the ultimate summer serve combining Grey Goose’s 100 per cent French ingredients with a seductive partnership of St-Germain Elderflower liqueur. Elevating the classic, vodka, lime and soda to a bespoke and beautiful new level, Le Grand Fizz is the culmination of Grey Goose’s two decades’ long experience in making the most premium of vodkas. Having made its debut at Cannes, it will be presented at many of this summer’s most glamorous occasions. Inspired by the vision of François Thibault, creator and Cellar Master of Grey Goose, the attention to detail comes alive in

Ingredients Grey Goose Le Citron vodka O15ml St-Germain Elderflower liqueur OFive fresh lemon wedges O60ml chilled soda water O35ml

every sip of Le Grand Fizz. Grey Goose vodka, made with spring water naturally filtered through limestone and soft winter wheat produced in the sun drenched Picardie region of France, merges with St-Germain Elderflower liqueur, freshly squeezed lime and chilled soda water to create a long, refreshing and effortlessly extraordinary cocktail. Served in a distinctive, oversized wine glass, this is truly a cocktail for those who want to be at the vanguard of incredible taste experiences. To see a video of Global Brand Ambassador Joe McCanta create the perfect Grey Goose Le Grand Fizz, visit

Method 1. Build ice into an oversized cabernet wine glass. 2. Add Grey Goose Le Citron vodka and squeeze of two fresh lemon wedges. 3. Discard lemon wedges. 4. Add St-Germain and lightly top with chilled soda water. 5. Garnish with three lemon wedges.

GREY GOOSE L’ORANGE GRAND FIZZ Ingredients Grey Goose L’Orange vodka O15ml St-Germain Elderflower liqueur OFive fresh orange wedges O60ml chilled soda water O35ml

Method 1. Build ice into an oversized cabernet wine glass. 2. Add Grey Goose L’Orange vodka and squeeze of two fresh orange wedges. 3. Discard orange wedges. 4. Add St-Germain and lightly top with chilled soda water. 5. Garnish with three orange wedges.


Fizz and pop with Grey Goose The natural style of the French Riviera no longer requires a trip across the Channel thanks to the Grey Goose Le Grand Fizz Pop Up Party service. Delivered to you and your guests, friends,

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Ingredients Grey Goose La Poire vodka O15ml St-Germain Elderflower liqueur OThree slices of fresh pear O60ml chilled soda water O35ml

Method 1. Build ice into an oversized cabernet wine glass. 2. Add Grey Goose La Poire vodka. 3. Add St-Germain and lightly top with chilled soda water. 4. Garnish with three slices of pear.

G Partnership

Grey Goose Le Grand Fizz is served in a large wine glass to allow for the addition of high-density ice cubes, ensuring that each serving is kept perfectly chilled at all times. The iconic Grey Goose stirrer adds a finishing touch, while helping to recharge the effervescence, giving the cocktail its signature tantalising fizz. GREY GOOSE LE GRAND FIZZ Ingredients O35ml Grey Goose vodka O15ml St-Germain Elderflower liqueur O60ml chilled soda water OFive fresh lime wedges Method 1. Build ice into an oversized cabernet wine glass. 2. Add Grey Goose vodka and squeeze of two lime wedges. 3. Discard lime wedges. 4. Add St-Germain and lightly top with chilled soda water. 5. Garnish with three fresh lime wedges. Enjoy Responsibly. Grey Goose, the Geese Device, St-Germain and the respective trade dresses are registered trademarks.






THE VILLAINS OF THE PIECE Suicide Squad The most anticipated antiherosuperhero (it’s a genre) film of the summer is finally upon us, and all our questions will be answered about this group of criminally deranged crime fighters. Will Margot Robbie’s Harley Quinn be as brilliantly nuts/hot as we hope? How badass is Will Smith’s Deadshot? Is Jared Leto’s Joker as demented as Heath Ledger’s? Suffice to say this has the potential to erase those terrible Batman v Superman memories.

Photograph Capital Pictures


out on 5 august

BOX O F F I C E H E RO DC’s most recent offering, Batman v Superman: Dawn Of Justice, was universally panned by critics, but still managed to rake in $871 million at the box office

Art, Music, Sport, Politics, Films, Books and the best opinion for the month ahead...

For the record: Dennis Hopper in 1970 by William Eggleston; Marcia Hare in 1975; Big Star artwork; (inset) Eggleston and Adam Clayton, May 2016

TROOPING THE COLOUR William Eggleston left monochrome behind to earn a legion of rock star fans. Now, GQ meets the photographer who changed his medium ahead of a new London retrospective STORY BY

Adam Clayton

here was a time, not all that long ago, when the art world scorned colour photography. The prestige palette was black and white; red, blues and greens were the stuff of snapshots, fashion and, heaven forbid, advertising. Yet in the Sixties, a young photographer called William Eggleston began experimenting with vivid hues and captured the attention of John Szarkowski, director of photography at New York’s Museum Of Modern Art. Szarkowski convinced the museum’s committee to buy a print and, finally, in 1976, they agreed to give Eggleston his first exhibition. It was a milestone – the high temple of US culture had changed its articles of faith. On 25 May, the doors swung open. Hilton Kramer, writing in the New York Times, called it “the most hated show of the year”. “It was just over their heads. They didn’t look at it,” Eggleston told me one recent afternoon in Memphis, Tennessee. “I was never brought down mentally by reading those critics, what they wrote. I thought it was funny because it was ridiculous.” He turned out to be right. Today, Eggleston is revered as the father of colour photography and commands serious critical attention, as his upcoming show at London’s National Portrait Gallery (NPG) attests. He is also considered a pioneer of the democratic lens. He sought to capture the ordinary things around him, portraying the people he encountered and the places he came across in Southern towns, Memphis in


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Every square millimetre works with every other tiny bit

particular, no matter how seemingly mundane. He views neighbourhoods, drivers, gas stations and random people with a detached gaze. He makes no judgement, he says, he is not a documentarian, he is not telling a narrative. His images are moments of composition, light and colour. When Eggleston invited me to Memphis to discuss his NPG show, I was excited both to meet him and to return to the place where rock‘n’roll exploded in the Fifties. I hadn’t visited since 1988 when U2 recorded Rattle And Hum at the storied Sun Studios. As a musician, I’m not alone in having an affinity for Eggleston’s work. Everyone from Big Star to David Byrne via Cat Power has licensed his pictures for album art. And even if, despite growing up in the Deep South, Eggleston was never much interested in contemporary music himself (get him going on Bach, on the other hand, and it’s an education), you might say that he has lived a rock star life: a lover of women, guns and cars, he has, as his reaction to the MoMA reviews suggests, always done things his way. “I know one thing for damn sure, I was never even the slightest bit interested in farming cotton,” says Eggleston, of his chosen career, sitting outside and smoking a cigarette. His attitude to portraiture, the

Photographs Eggleston Artistic Trust; Winston Eggleston; Alamy; Rex

focus of the upcoming show, is no less contrary. Although it includes some familiar names such as Joe Strummer of The Clash, he tended not to engage on a personal level with his subjects. “Pictures of mine that have people in them – generally I did not know the people, really.” It’s an approach symptomatic of his self confidence, which, at 76-years-old, he still has in spades. When I comment that his image composition is sophisticated, he has no time for false modesty. “I think it is very, very sophisticated,” he agrees. “That’s why so few people get it. They don’t look hard enough or long enough to realise that every square millimetre of that frame works with every other tiny bit.” Unavoidable even for one as vivacious as Eggleston, however, are the cruelties of old age. He tells me that he is having trouble with his ears and cannot hear bass any more. “I love bass, that’s what I miss”. More significantly, he has also had to contend with the recent death of his wife Rosa Kate Dossett, a plantation owner’s daughter, who he married in 1964. “She left me fantastic mountains of memories,” he reflects. “She had very few friends. She was a very alone type of girl and liked to be alone. And she didn’t hesitate to tell me this. She said, ‘It’s not that I don’t like being around you, but I wish you’d leave me alone for a while so I could be apart from you.’” Although Eggleston was often geographically distant – for a time he lived at New York’s Chelsea Hotel – she knew his work intimately. “She was the most severe critic one can imagine,” he says. “I’ll tell you the damn truth: I shall never find another one like her. And I’ve had a lot of them.” It’s not hyperbole. He famously enjoyed an open marriage with Rosa, who wasn’t the jealous type. “What was wonderful about her was she liked the fact that I had many girlfriends. She thought it was swell. It kind of made her happy.” And despite his age, his love of women remains undiminished. “I have a lot of girlfriends that come over. Every night, different ones.” We move inside and leaf through Eggleston’s portraits. There’s the iconic picture of Marcia Hare, used by Primal Scream for the cover of “Country Girl”; a haunting shot of Eggleston hugging a shirtless man who I’m told was called TC Boring and later murdered, although nobody was charged; and also photos of Rosa. Viewing these shots together, many of their subjects having passed away and Eggleston’s own memories fading, I can’t help but feel there is more of a narrative than he might let on, an autobiographical quality that I am certain will be captured brilliantly by Phillip Prodger, head of photographs at the National Portrait Gallery. And we’re lucky to have that insight into Eggleston’s world. In the past 40 years since he blazed a trail with his stark, rich colours, we have moved from snapshots to Instagram. But if you want to understand why Instagram images are now being exhibited in major galleries, look up William Eggleston. William Eggleston Portraits is at the National Portrait Gallery from 21 July. Saint Martins Place, London, WC2. 020 7306 0055.


A surge of big-name comebacks tapped into our need for nostalgia, but now Hollywood is in danger of making sequels that nobody was waiting for STORY BY


200 4

2005 2013


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Stuart McGurk

QUESTION: what’s the difference between a regular sequel and – as Hollywood speak would have it – an “event” movie? The answer, it turns out, is about a decade. Take this month’s Jason Bourne, the muchanticipated Matt Damon super-assassin tale that’s coming a full nine years after the completion of the original trilogy. If it had just been another sequel, no big deal, but wait around a while, and it’s a different ballgame. Now, it’s in the nostalgia business and, for Hollywood, the nostalgia business is booming. It used to take a long time – no more. The recent Star Wars film, The Force Awakens (takes place in space, set some time back, you may have heard  of it), was essentially a Star Wars hall of fame done as motion picture, so keenly did it direct you to the past. But now, we don’t have to wait several decades for our nostalgia hit. One will do just fine. In the last two years alone, we’ve had nostalgia-drenched sequels to Zoolander (15 years after the original), Jurassic Park (14 years after the third instalment), Anchorman (tagline: “the legend continues”, nine years), Sin City (nine years), and Dumb And Dumber (ten years)... Spot a pattern? Last year’s quite excellent Creed managed the impressive feat of being both a reboot of Rocky (focusing on the rise of Apollo Creed’s son to boxing glory), a sequel to Rocky (Sylvester Stallone is his coach) and perfectly pitched in the decade-ripened nostalgia sweet spot (nine years after the surprisingly good Rocky Balboa, in which Stallone convincingly portrayed a man of pension age fighting for the world title; never mind the fuss about him not winning the Oscar for Creed, that’s the role he should have got awards for). In some ways, because of the gap, they are all sequels no one asked for. Were people chaining themselves to the gates of the Universal Studios lot, demanding another film in which a T-Rex escapes a surprisingly lax security system? They were not. But then that’s the thing about nostalgia: it comes upon you when you least expect it. Jason Bourne is out on 27 July. AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 107

JULY might be the time to leave for the fresh air or the beach, but there’s still something uniquely rewarding about taking with you a well-told tale of the ultimate city – whatever the iteration. And this month you can take your pick between Molly Prentiss’ Tuesday Nights In 1980 (Scout Press, £12.99), in which an artists’ squat by Tompkins Square Park is taken apart by police, cleaned up and turned into a Downtown gallery space to sell art to rich people, and cult writer Mary Gaitskill’s The Mare (Serpent’s Tail, £14.99), in which Ginger, who in her twenties and thirties had created “an intense half-life as an artist visible only in Lower Manhattan”, has now left the city. Some fans may be dismayed by the wholesome subject matter of Gaitskill’s new novel, which draws on her own experiences working with the Fresh Air Fund. At the centre of The Mare is Ginger – on the other side of AA, living in leafy Connecticut and finding a whole new dimension to life through an eleven-year-old Dominican girl from Brooklyn, Velvet, who comes into her life through the charity summer programme, in which deprived city kids are hosted by more privileged families outside the city. The Mare doesn’t have the intense sexual drama of Gaitskill’s earlier work (she wrote the short story that became the dark sexualcomedy film Secretary) but it’s just as visceral and haunting, and the telling, with its shifting first-person narrative, is nothing short of masterful. If you’ve always regretted missing out on a real-life sighting of Jean-Michel Basquiat or Keith Haring, Tuesday Nights

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Olivia Cole In 1980 is an addictively readable guide with a prose style as colourful, surprising and convincing as much of the great art its author draws on. And while excellent on the myopic, self-absorbed nature of New York, the breadth and variety of Prentiss’ characters means that it never suffers from the condition itself. The Downtown brought powerfully to life in Prentiss’ addictive debut is lurking, too, on the periphery of the autobiographical short stories of teenager Nicola Rips, who writes about her childhood living in the Chelsea Hotel in Trying To Float (Simon & Schuster, £16.99). Once a dirty repository of eccentrics and city myths, the Chelsea Hotel is currently closed for renovations and no longer accepts long-term residents like the Rips family. But nothing is more symbolic of the change in Lower Manhattan than the influx of moneyed lives who took over from the artists and the squatters. The Wall Street invasion is expertly captured in Robert Goolrick’s elegiac The Fall Of Princes (Algonquin, £10.99). The epigraph of Trying To Float comes from Groucho Marx, “Practically everybody in New York has half a mind to write a book, and does.” Or to be an artist, he might have added. And in one of the many perfect details in Goolrick’s close examination of the other side of Eighties New York, his antihero narrator Rooney abandons his ambition to be an artist to become a trader instead. If the time of “Downtown” as an explosion of creativity is now mostly confined to the realm of such “historical” fiction, there’s consolation in just how diverting this can be.

Life lessons from literature No2

How to thrive in contemporary society

GOLF NEEDS SOME FIRE IN THE HOLE Without an inspirational ‘Murray moment’, next month’s Olympic golf will descend into the commercial charade its critics have long predicted STORY BY

Martin Samuel

s he walked off the 18th green at the Congressional Country Club in Maryland, a fan draped a flag over the shoulders of Rory McIlroy. He had just completed his final round, 69, to win the 2011 US Open by eight shots. His score of 16 under par was a tournament record. He was the youngest winner since 1923. McIlroy moved several paces before he was aware of the Irish tricolour. By his next stride it had been shrugged off, left crumpled on the grass in his wake. McIlroy is from Northern Ireland and back in 2011, he was not minded to be considered Irish. “Eire apparent,” wrote the New York Times the following day, Irish distinctions still puzzling some, particularly in the US. They seem to have confused McIlroy too because back then all the indications were that he would compete for Great Britain at the 2016 Rio de Janeiro Olympics. “I feel more British than Irish,” McIlroy said in 2012, yet two years later he declared for Ireland. “I remembered all the times I represented Ireland as an amateur,” McIlroy said. “I have played for Ireland my whole life and there’s no reason to change that now.” And there’s the irony. That an athlete who couldn’t at first decide what country he was from could end up the saviour of Olympic golf. In Rio, the sport needs a passionate winner. It needs an Andy Murray moment to vindicate its inclusion. Could McIlroy be the man to provide it, bouncing along the fairways in Irish green, this time inspired by the tricolours flying in the gallery? What of Sergio García or Jordan Spieth, who has said he will consider the event a “fifth major”? Golf must be made meaningful in Rio if it is to survive, long-term. We know what we think about golf at the Olympics. The same thing we thought about tennis. It’s a joke. It was only included because NBC pay billions to the IOC in broadcast rights, and NBC only wanted it so they could show Tiger Woods in prime time, and now Woods can barely hit his own backside with a golf club so he won’t be there anyway. Nor will several of the world’s finest players. Adam Scott, Louis Oosthuizen and Vijay Singh have all said they will not be available for selection, bolstering


Illustration Ben Jennings


Sebastian Junger explores what a sense of community has to offer contemporary society in Tribe: On Homecoming And Belonging (Twelve, £15.99), out now.

A new wave of ‘historical’ stories revisits the lost creative crucible of Manhattan’s Downtown

Humans don’t mind hardship, in fact they thrive on it; what they mind is not feeling necessary


Shot to nothing: The danger for Olympic golf is that many players feel it cannot match a major

the argument that unless an Olympic gold medal is considered the pinevent, its competitors unmotivated and often apart from the rest of nacle in a sport, it should not be present. “My decision has been taken the team. There had been tales of the Williams sisters and other A-list players snubbing the Olympic village to stay in five-star hotels – and as a result of an extremely busy playing schedule around the time of the fact that in the modern era Miloslav Mecir (1988), Marc Rosset the Olympics,” said Scott to widespread scorn at home. (1992) and Nicolás Massú (2004) have gold medals while Pete Sampras Yet Scott’s attitude seems to sum up the incongruity of Olympic and Novak Djokovic do not, has made the competition appear golf. For every player who appears keen, another is privately irrelevant. Yet in 2012, Murray defeated Federer in straight sets indifferent. Indeed, it could be argued that Olympic golf would and celebrated as if he had won a grand slam. Then he did win be better served as an amateur event, where the gold medal a grand slam. And then another. And each time he did, he credwould genuinely represent the summit, as it does in rowing or ited his breakthrough to the Olympic tennis event and what he gymnastics – but NBC wouldn’t be interested in paying the big had learned from being part of the Great Britain team. bucks for unknowns. The format is another missed opportunity This is what golf needs in Rio. A winner like Murray who will – 72 holes of stroke play, just like every week on tour, rather than not be afraid to emphasise the inspiration of national pride over selfish the greater spectacle of match play, which is gladiatorial and makes individual attainment, who will treat the Olympic medal like it is a claret the other great international competition, the Ryder Cup, so special. jug, a green jacket, a grand slam or a major – and golf as if it is a sport There will be a men’s and women’s tournament but nothing that pairs that truly belongs. the sexes, as in tennis, which might have helped raise the profile of the women’s game. And caddies have been told Gold rush: The sports that should have featured at the Rio Olympics that they will not receive medals, but may be subject to drug testing, which gives them a unique status at Olympic events. Well, unique for human beings anyway. Horses also do not receive medals in equestrian competition but do get drug-tested, so at least caddies know where they stand. In stables, basically. Maybe 1 2 3 4 when they’ve finished for the day they will be Darts Ten-pin Dodgeball Street dance led behind the clubhouse to be hosed down Picture it: Phil “The If you can dodge the IOC It’s time to step up. bowling and given a nice cube of sugar. It’s fair to say It’s right up our alley, It’s Power” Taylor, shirtless doping officials, you can Judging panels and the sport with talent to on the Copacabana, dodge a ball. Best case leotards are so 2012 – they are unimpressed. spare. It knocks all other eyeing up a nine-darter scenario: a USA/Russia hoodies and hypemen Murray changed the perception of Olympic sports down. Turkey. for gold. This. Is. Sport. final. One for the ages. should carry the torch. tennis, certainly in Britain. Until London in Also shortlisted: Paintball, ultimate frisbee, poker, slapsies, parkour, beer pong, drone racing 2012, it was considered an inferior Olympic AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 109


The advantage of the traditional route is that it creates a narrative. First an album is announced. Then there are weeks of anticipation, fuelled by singles, videos, interviews and early reviews. Before you actually hear the album you’ve had time to think about it, The ‘surprise’ album is exciting, lucrative and fires up the internet, read about it, imagine what it might contain. At but are insta-release tactics – and the snap judgements that follow – least that’s the ideal scenario. Since the dawn threatening the way we enjoy music? It might be time to press pause of the MP3, illegal album leaks have wrecked STORY BY Dorian Lynskey the best laid plans of many an artist. The insta-release is a way of reclaiming f you’re finding it hard to keep up with the onslaught of control and crafting a different narrative: a big bang instead of a slow build. One consequence is to shut out the critics and go straight to the last-minute album releases this year, then spare a thought for fans of veteran Warp Records duo Autechre. Recently listener. Coloring Book, the fourth free online mixtape from Chicago MC they dropped Elseq 1-5: five simultaneous albums of long, Chance The Rapper, features Lil Yachty rapping: “F*** them reviews abstract electronica pieces with titles such as “acdwn2” and “13x0 step”. that they put in the paper/Did what I wanted, didn’t care about a hater/ Soon after the likes of Beyoncé, Kendrick Lamar, Radiohead, Rihanna, Delivered my tape to the world as a caterer.” (The irony is that Coloring James Blake and Skepta released albums without warning, sending critics Book, a gospel-rap tour de force, has been universally acclaimed.) scrambling to write reviews overnight, Elseq 1-5 felt like a conceptual The most successful insta-release so far is Beyoncé’s Lemonade, joke at the expense of snap judgements: try getting your head around an audio-visual spectacular so skilfully conceived that it practically this before tomorrow morning. dictated its own rave reviews. Pop’s most presidential star staged an ofIt’s nine years since Radiohead’s In Rainbows kicked the first hole in the-moment cultural pageant and positioned herself in the centre. She’s the old model of album releases (although its ten-day notice period achieved the ultimate aim of any pop star by making herself indispensable seems quaintly generous now) but it wasn’t until Beyoncé’s self-titled and unignorable. But Lemonade’s knockout blow isn’t replicable for 2013 album that the ground really moved, leading Prince, Coldplay, artists without Beyoncé’s imperial star power. For most, the insta-release Wilco and U2 to drop albums unannounced. This year, it feels that is a licence to play for lower stakes. Rihanna’s Anti had the stoned nonanyone old-fashioned enough to put an album on a release schedule chalance of a mixtape. Kendrick Lamar tossed out Untitled Unmastered, two months in advance isn’t playing in the big leagues. Whether the a scrapbook of demos, as if he was clearing out his spare room. These snap release is the right strategy for everybody, however, is debatable. were casual albums, casually delivered. Radiohead’s A Moon Shaped Pool made a big splash because, well, it’s Radiohead, but that wasn’t a grand statement either – less a flashy ta-dah! than a gentle resurfacing. In some cases, though, a surprise release doesn’t do the music justice. James Blake’s hugely ambitious (and very long) third album The Colour In Anything is an exquisitely subtle record that demands the listener’s time and patience but it was unveiled in a way that invited hasty appraisal. The internet’s attention cycle isn’t kind towards albums that need space to grow and I’m sure that a more conventional album campaign would have played in Blake’s favour. The age of the insta-release has drawbacks for listeners, too. For one thing, exclusive deals mean it’s impossible to even hear them all (legally, at least) on release day unless you have multiple streaming subscriptions. And the sheer volume of unexpected albums has become exhausting, each one prompting a blitz of quick-fire thinkpieces and social-media chatter. In place of anticipation is a bullying urgency. If you want to keep up, you have to hear a new album straight away, form a snap opinion and make way for the next one. It makes music feel like just another part of the internet’s overwhelming data flow rather than a refuge from it. I was out when The Stone Roses dropped All For One, their first single in 21 years, and by the time I got a chance to hear it a few hours later, it already felt done and dusted on social media. Absurdly, it felt old. That was only a single but if I were a musician who had spent two years crafting an artistic statement I’m not sure I’d be delighted to see the internet pass judgement on it within 24 hours. Good music takes time to give up its secrets but an insta-release demands an insta-response. Assessing a new album shouldn’t feel like a round of Countdown. So when I don’t have a professional obligation to join the fray, I find myself resisting the urge to rush in. Why let the release strategy dictate your listening habits? Why not carve out your own space? The album will still be there a week, a month, Quick start: a year from now and maybe your enjoyment of Beyoncé’s Lemonade it will be enhanced by the wait. When the music was the most industry is desperate to move fast, there’s value in successful taking it slow. ‘insta-release’


Lemonade practically dictated its own rave reviews

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When we were young, we could only afford Babycham

A look back at the Founding Fathers (via a hit TV show) highlights the dangers of Donald Trump’s terrifying rise STORY BY

Matthew d’Ancona

have never trusted nostalgia. Chip away at dreams of the past and you will almost invariably discover self-deception. Many of those who voted Leave in the EU referendum believed they were retrieving the Britain of their youth, before the incursions of continental bureaucracy. But that was never going to happen, whatever the outcome of the vote, and was never on offer. As for political parties, those that seek to turn back the clock are doomed to electoral irrelevance. The founding text of Conservative modernisation, a speech delivered by Michael Portillo at the 1997 party conference, urged his fellow Tories to embrace “the world that is”. What David Willetts calls “bring-backery” is a feeble basis for any political movement to seek office. As Bill Clinton puts it, the best politicians are in “the future business”. So it has been unsettling to find myself yearning for the past as opposed to the present: albeit the past of another country. In my case, this unfamiliar sentiment was triggered by the juxtaposition of two digital experiences. The first was Meet The Trumps, a Fox News special aired in May that showed the aspiring First Family in all their gaudy pomp and pageantry. “Meet Melania [Mrs Trump] – take a look at her!” Then there’s Donald Jr “an avid hunter”, Ivanka (“she’s a mother, too!”), Eric (also “an avid hunter”), Tiffany and Baron. Greta Van Susteren, a Fox anchor and the show’s presenter, talks about the Trumps as if they’re a cross between the Von Trapps and the Renaissance-era Medici, prepared to move into the White House residence on Inauguration Day (20 January). If nothing else, this free advertising reminds us that a Trump presidency is only one election-day away. On 18 July, the Republican National Convention will open in Cleveland, Ohio. Do watch if you can, if only to get a sense of how high the stakes are, and who the next leader of the free world, with his plump fingers on the nuclear button, might quite conceivably be. Contrast this with my second digital experience: HBO’s John Adams, first broadcast in 2008. It’s taken me years to catch up with this astonishing seven-part miniseries on Apple TV. The series captured 13 Emmys, which is no surprise: in the pantheon of single-season drama, it’s up there with Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, I, Claudius and Brideshead Revisited. If you haven’t heard of Adams, who lived from 1735 to 1826 and was the second president of the United States, don’t be alarmed. It is extraordinary how little many Americans know about the Founding Fathers, beyond the basic mythology. And this series is a superb


Their generation: Roger Daltrey is raising funds for Teen Cancer America

SEE ME, FEEL ME, DRINK ME What better way to celebrate 50 years of The Who than by cracking open the champagne? Helpfully, Roger Daltrey has brought his own bottle STORY BY

THE Who’s Roger Daltrey is launching his very own champagne, or “rock’n’roll mouthwash” as it’s traditionally known in the music business. Proceeds from sales of the limited-edition Champagne Charles Orban, Cuvée Roger Daltrey will go to Teen Cancer America, the charity founded by Daltrey and fellow band member Pete Townshend. Launched to toast the band’s ongoing 50th anniversary, the bottle features The Who’s iconic bullseye symbol as well as the famous Tommy album artwork. “I need funds to expand the charity, and this seems like a good idea to help with that,” says Daltrey. “When we were young we could only afford Babycham, although we used to call it champagne. The Who used to celebrate everything with Babycham. To be honest, The Who didn’t really drink a lot of champagne, we used to spray it over each other. Keith [Moon] was more of a brandy man and I was more of a vodka man. Dom Perignon was probably my favourite, as it’s more masculine. But champagne is one of those drinks that marks an occasion, and being in The Who for 50 years is certainly an occasion.

Dylan Jones “There’s really only us, the Stones and McCartney left. The Coachella concert with us all in the autumn is going to be great because we’re going to be together. We don’t know when the baton is going to get handed over, but as you’ve seen from the number of people who have left us this year, it ain’t going to be very long. So it’s great that we’re going to be in one place for three days. We can celebrate the music that’s lasted. At our shows now we’re getting 50 per cent, 60 per cent young people. Really young. For some reason, the music from that period still resonates. These days, the only music that resonates is rap. It’s aggressive, it’s angry. “On this tour it’s been very strange, because you finish the show and you’re standing on stage and you’re thinking, we’re probably not coming back here. I know how much it takes to do these shows, how much physical effort it takes, and I’m not sure we’ll be doing it again. You can’t go on the road all the time as you need to leave a gap, so by the time we went back on the road I’d be 75.” Champagne Charles Orban, Cuvée Roger Daltrey is £95.

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 111

Trump is the anti-Adams. He is uninterested in ideas

112 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

T O P TA B L E The hallowed pool room at the Four Seasons restaurant in Aby Rosen's Midtown Seagram building in New York

SEASONS CHANGE... New York’s fabled Four Seasons restaurant is closing for good this month. A media-age monument well past its sell-by date, or a victim of the rise of ‘casualism’? STORY BY

Emily Wright

ABY Rosen is all about dressed-down dapper. Almost as well known for his fierce dedication to contemporary tailoring and open-neck shirts as for his business acumen, the New York real estate mogul has got his casual work wardrobe down to a fine art. Now he says the rest of the Big Apple is catching up. And as the ties come off, Rosen is hellbent on making sure his upcoming property developments cater to a new breed of New Yorker. His announcement last summer that the Four Seasons restaurant at his Midtown Seagram building will be replaced when its lease expires this summer is a case in point. After more than 50 years in situ, he has decided the iconic outpost must go, badging it “stale and tired” – consequently sending half of New York into a tailspin. This is not the first time Rosen has made a bold, unpopular decision about the future of this particular brand at the Seagram building. A lengthy court battle ahead of Rosen’s eventual removal of a long-standing Picasso curtain in the restaurant hit the headlines in 2014. But the man behind some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including Gramercy Park Hotel, Paramount Hotel and 100 East 53rd Street, the new Foster + Partnersdesigned residential tower launched last October, has no qualms riding out a barrage of fresh criticism. “If something is no good, I throw it away,” he says. “I apply that to every aspect of my business. If something doesn’t work any more? It needs to go.

If something is out of date? It needs to go. And a lot of people have a hard time with that. With change.” Controversy, he says, is a small price to pay for survival. “If you sit on something you think is great for too long, it disappears,” he says with a shrug. “One of the biggest fears people face in New York is becoming irrelevant. Especially in real estate. And the way to avoid that is to embrace change and be OK with making people feel uncomfortable for a while. Because that feeling doesn’t last. And things are usually replaced with something better.” In the case of the Four Seasons replacement, this is to be a partnership with Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi – the Downtown chefs behind Manhattan’s Carbone, Dirty French and Santina – which Rosen says will better suit the increasingly casual nature of New York wealth, dining and lifestyle. “Slick, fun, less structured. This is what New York is all about now,” he says. “The Four Seasons was very old-school. I promise that what I do will be better than what was there before.” Whether that is a promise he will be able to keep will only become clear once the new venture opens. But Rosen insists he can handle the scrutiny in the interim. “When you have a conviction, you need to run with it,” he says. “That phrase ‘if it ‘ain’t broke don’t fix it’ just isn’t true. If you don’t update and move forward, then that fear of becoming irrelevant will become a reality. In this life, and in real estate, you always have to be moving, changing. Doing something.”

Photographs Jennifer Calais Smith; Landmark Media

primer in the birth of what was to become the most powerful nation in history. Its fulcrum is the relationship between Adams (a mesmerising performance by Paul Giamatti) and his wife, Abigail (no less brilliantly played by Laura Linney), whom he wisely treated as an intellectual equal. The surviving correspondence between them is riveting (available as a Penguin Classic), and translates smoothly to on-screen dialogue. What is so arresting about the congressional debates that led to American independence and the formation of the USA is the interaction between giants. We are witness to discussions involving George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Paine and Adams himself: rebels driven by a belief in government by law and the rights of man. No revolution has been so grounded in ideas and principle and proved so enduring. It is no accident Americans remain so wedded to their Declaration Of Independence, Constitution and Bill Of Rights, for these documents from the final decades of the 18th century have been the basis of America’s survival of a civil war and rise to become the only superpower. At the heart of this revolution was the protection of liberty. As Adams put it, “Let the human mind loose. It must be loosed. It will be loose. Superstition and despotism cannot confine it.” Freedom of opinion, freedom from tyranny and freedom from unwarranted intrusion were the foundation of American independence. The HBO miniseries is a pleasure to watch. But it is also vivid testament to the reality of history: great ideas have no intrinsic force. They must be nurtured and enacted by statesmen who have the integrity, confidence and political will to overcome the resistance that progress always encounters. It was the good fortune of the American colonies, or states, as they became, to be represented by such an extraordinary group of individuals. The inverse reality is that great damage can be done by a presidential candidate propelled to the nomination by name-recognition, the fame of a reality TV show star and a readiness to say anything in the quest for votes. Trump is the anti-Adams. He is uninterested in ideas and untrammelled by the constitutional culture that’s defined the US. His instincts are authoritarian. To deal with immigration, he proposes to build a wall between the US and Mexico. To address Islamic fundamentalism, he wants to keep Muslims out of the United States – a breach of the constitutional protection of religious freedom. He wants to restore waterboarding of terrorist suspects – and “a hell of a lot worse”. He mocks the disabled, women and those who disagree with him. For months, Trump was dismissed as a buffoon who would falter. The time for that analysis is long past. The US is on the verge of a presidency that would unravel all that John Adams and his colleagues fought to achieve. The world has an interest in preventing that. Yes: for once, a little nostalgia is precisely what is needed.


Heroes Of The Frontier by Dave Eggers out on 26 july (hamish hamilton)

It’s woman versus American wilderness in Eggers’ latest, as a newly single mother uproots her family and heads for Alaska, as far as she can get from her ex in Ohio without leaving the country. There’s little logic to the route and arguably too many detours along the way, but if you’re a fan, you’ll enjoy being on a virtual road trip with garrulous Josie, her unimpressed kids, a crumbling RV named “Chateau” and the presiding spirit of the author himself as he considers the kind of emotional and cultural baggage you can’t leave behind, however many thousands of miles you put between yourself and your home.

NAVIGATOR Set your cultural compass to this month’s pole stars

The Bride by Bat For Lashes

as one of the greatest graphic novels ever. SOPHIE HASTINGS c a rtoonmuse SEE

Georgia O’Keeffe at Tate Modern until 30 october

author writes, “the bits you might have seen in a pretty little brochure”, taking you instead to “the kinds of people you have never taken the time to believe in” – in particular, Alexander Bedward (1859-1930), considered one of the spiritual godfathers of the Rastafari movement, and whose teachings loom large as a young boy comes of age in the Kingston suburbs. OC WAT C H

Star Trek Beyond out on 22 july

The summer blockbuster season is truly in swing when another Star Trek film arrives: this one, however, is not directed by JJ Abrams, who had the small matter of another science fiction film on his hands, but by The Fast And The Furious director Justin Lin. The first trailer made it look a mess, the second a lot of fun, as the Enterprise finds itself under attack in uncharted space by an unknown race. Rest still, nerds – it was co-written, at least, by king Trek nerd Simon Pegg. SM

Ibifornia by Cassius For their first album in ten years, the veteran Parisian duo dream up a hedonist’s utopia (Ibiza + California), invite friends such as Pharrell and Cat Power and create

Charting the rise of the graphic novel through the work of William Hogarth, Kate Charlesworth, Bryan, Martin Rowson, Posy Simmonds, Mary Talbot and the UK’s comic laureate, Dave Gibbons, whose genre-defining novel, Watchmen, broke new ground in comic-strip storytelling in 1986 and is regarded HEAR

Summer 08 by Metronomy out now (because music)

Joe Mount’s Devon-based band started out as a solo dance-floor project before evolving into a winningly eccentric English pop group. Five albums in, Mount reconnects with his roots on a briskly engaging disco-pop record featuring Robyn and Mix Master Mike. More ecstasy, less XTC. DL

Britain In The Fifties: Design And Aspiration at Compton Verney, Warwickshire 9 july – 2 october

Witness the changing cultural landscape of post-war Britain in all its new optimism and affluence, through the eyes of a typical young couple. Their re-created home interior features paintings, posters and textiles by Enid Marx, Edward Bawden and John Piper, as well as packaging, branding and fashion of the time. SH



With scenes of cannibalism and necrophilia, The Neon Demon was booed at Cannes

Facing The World: SelfPortraits Rembrandt To Ai Weiwei at Scottish National Portrait Gallery


until 24 july

Sixteen Chinese contemporary artists were commissioned by the Cass Foundation to make new monumental installations for its park, the most spectacular of which is Wang Yuyang’s “Identity”, a six-metre-high plant-like sculpture in brass, red copper, iron, stainless steel, concrete, fibreglass and marble. Its structure was informed by text from Marx’s Das Kapital transformed into a binary code using 3-D rendering and modelling software. Clever and beautiful. SH


out now (polydor)

Drop dead gorgeous: Elle Fanning plays an aspiring model in The Neon Demon

Natasha Khan’s fourth album, the soundtrack to a putative movie about a woman who loses her fiancé on her wedding day, is her most cinematic and Americansounding yet. Think big skies, road trips, Fleetwood Mac’s spookier moments and Mazzy Star’s dreamy desert folk. A morbidly romantic affair. DORIAN LYNSKEY

until 6 november


out now (parlophone)

The Great British Graphic Novel at The Cartoon Museum, London


A Beautiful Disorder at Cass Sculpture Foundation

O’Keeffe is best known for her paintings of magnified flowers, animal skulls and the New Mexico desert landscapes. Making her debut exactly a century ago, she was immediately recognised as a trailblazing artist and was later claimed as a pioneer by feminists of the OLIVIA COLE Seventies. This RARE exhibition brings SIGHTING WAT C H A once-in-a-generation together more than opportunity for The Legend 100 of her most audiences outside the US Of Tarzan important works, to view the artist’s work – there are no paintings out on 8 july including “Jimson by O’Keeffe in UK You can’t argue with Weed/White Flower public collections the casting – brooding, No.1” (1932), the most angular Alexander expensive painting by a Skarsgard plays Tarzan, he female artist ever sold at of the skimpy loincloth and auction. SH unrivalled ability to swing through READ trees; and all-round perfect human Margot Robbie is Jane, his (and, Augustown let’s face it, everyone’s) object by Kei Miller of desire. What a few months out on 14 july (orion) ago looked like a CGI-heavy flop You know about LA noir, and now looks promising, after the Florida glare, but do you know rebooted Jungle Book’s storming about Kingston noir? This heady success. With David “Harry Potter” third novel by Miller will transport Yates as the director and Christoph you to Jamaica, though not, as the Waltz in typical dastard mode, we have hope. STUART McGURK HEAR

an exquisitely produced soundtrack of house, Afrobeat and bright-eyed pop. Well worth a visit. DL

16 july – 16 october WAT C H

The Neon Demon out 8 july

Nicolas Winding Refn – the hipper-than-hip director of all those overly long camera pans and pulsing soundtracks in Drive and Only God Forgives – is back with The Neon Demon, a film, curiously for him, that doesn’t star Ryan Gosling. Instead, it’s co-written by British playwright Polly Stenham and follows an aspiring model (Elle Fanning) being swallowed by the hucksters and seething rivalry of LA. Like vintage Bret Easton Ellis, only with fewer outright psychopaths. SM

In the age of social media and the selfie, this exhibition spans six centuries of the images artists have created to represent themselves. Highlights include Weiwei’s online profiles and works by Tracey Emin and Marina Abramovic, as well as their equally groundbreaking predecessors, Max Beckmann, Gustave Courbet, Matisse and Rembrandt. SH AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 113





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Working well: The new HQ of the Headspace app in California puts health and wellbeing at the core of its design

MINDS OVER MATTER How to transform your office with life, love and the pursuit of happiness ILLUSTRATION BY

Bratislav Milenkovic AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 115

Your new happy place The brilliant minds behind game-changing meditation app Headspace show GQ how its happiness-orientated office can change the world IMAGINE an office in which health and happiness are at the core of everyday life. Wellbeing comes first, work comes second. Only one office of this kind exists in the world and it belongs to the brains behind Headspace – the meditation app dubbed “a gym membership for the mind”. Headspace, along with its 80 employees, has now found some office space of its own – in the new happiness-orientated HQ in Santa Monica, Los Angeles. Headspace was born from co-founder Rich Pierson’s encounter

Out of office: Headspace’s Santa Monica HQ kitchen is designed to encourage collaboration

116 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

with Andy Puddicombe, a Buddhist monk who taught Pierson how to meditate. Now, the app has over six million users in over 190 countries. The Headspace office, designed by Kelly Robinson, is a physical embodiment of the brand, mirroring its healthy, mindful ethos and building itself on its founding pillars of authenticity, kindness and creativity as well as sustainability. “I wanted the building to feel like home to its employees,” says Robinson, who prepared the design concept by taking inspiration from the streets, restaurants and furniture in London – Headspace’s birthplace. Robinson designed the layout of the office to encourage regular movement and to make meditation the core of office life rather than an afterthought. Andy’s “Lab”, where all the Headspace material is recorded, sits in the centre of the building, and specially recorded two-minute meditation exercises (one for creativity and one for focus) play at the start of every meeting. A wall of community quotes reminds staff of Headspace’s focus on kindness, and innovative sustainability corners encourage staff to make recycling a part of daily office life. “The Headspace vision is to improve the health and happiness of the world,” says Robinson. “Every design decision is connected to sustainability, health and wellness.” Eleanor Halls




Meditation pods

The silent room

What’s special? Designed by Oyler Wu, these pods almost make meditation – something intangible – tangible.

What’s special? It’s a tech-free zone, so people can unplug from the modern world and think in silence. The room can be used to meditate alone or with a group in complete quiet, or for listening to soothing music.

Design features: Inspired by natural geological formations, the curvilinear seating pod is created from multiple layers of machine-cut wood. The internal screen creates a peaceful, immersive experience, without complete isolation.

Zen master: Designer Oyler Wu’s pods provide space for periods of mindfulness

Mindfulness advantage? Headspace says: “Guided through a meditation session by Headspace co-founder, Buddhist monk Andy Puddicombe, in a fun, private cocoon, we provide staff ergonomic comfort and a calm sense of focus.” Apply this to your office... Buy several of these pods for your office directly from Headspace.

The boardroom

Design features: Comfortable seating with cushions for optimum physical relaxation and good natural light to improve positivity. Mindfulness advantage? Headspace says: “Disconnecting from your phone allows you to approach problems from a clearer and sometimes different perspective.” Apply this to your office... By installing a tech-free room in the office – no phones.

Divide and rule: Avoiding one big table in the room is great for open dialogue

What’s special? The boardroom is purposefully designed to be the polar opposite of traditional boardrooms. Design features: Instead of having one large table with several chairs, multiple seating arrangements encourage flow and dialogue among smaller groups as well as one large group. Mindfulness advantage? Headspace says: “If you are in the same room all day having varied seating encourages people to move around and engage with others.” Apply this to your office... By adding different types of seating in your meeting room, ranging from high stools to sofas, armchairs and floor cushions – some clustered, some spaced apart.

The lookout What’s special? This is the only office spot where food is shared, music is played and large gatherings can naturally occur. The kitchen is the focus of the space to encourage sociability. Design features: Designed for comfort and movement, the space allows people to stand around the kitchen nook, stretch out on the amphitheatre seating, sit at café tables, lounge on the floor cushions, or even lie down – all in the same space. Mindfulness advantage? Headspace says: “This relaxed atmosphere enables short conversations and more in-depth spontaneous meetings. Interruptions are allowed in a space like this, so collaboration is more impulsive and free flowing.” Apply this to your office... By making the office kitchen a more sociable zone by making it a larger space and adding comfortable seating and floor cushions. EH For more information on Headspace or to buy the meditation pods, visit

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 117

Carry that weight: Actor Jesse Tyler Ferguson (right) joins Bear in the Dolomites for an episode of Running Wild With Bear Grylls


Why you always need a fresh challenge From the smallest task to life’s toughest obstacles, identifying meaningful goals gives you the sense of purpose and direction you need to keep going WHEN I was a young man, my grandfather gave me some good advice. It’s hard enough in life, he said, to get where you want to be even when you’re crystal clear where that place is. It’s near impossible to get there if you don’t know where you’re going. He was so right. Humans are like sailing ships. If you take the rudder off a sailing ship, it doesn’t perform well. The sails flap about, the ship can’t build up any speed and it goes nowhere. But if you put a rudder on it and turn it towards the breeze, things are very different. The sails fill up. Everything goes taut. There might be a bit of strain, but suddenly there’s also direction and speed. We’re the same, and challenges are our rudder. Without a challenge, we’re at the mercy of other forces. We get saggy and drift around, and often we even get blown backwards. Wherever we end up, it’s rarely anywhere meaningful. As humans, we perform best when we have a focus. I see it all the time in the wild. The storms, the struggles and the steep mountains always bring out the best in people. Yes, there might be some pain and blisters and hurting, but like the struggle, they develop us. And, as is so often the case, what’s true in the wild is true in many other arenas. These challenges don’t have to be world changing. You only have to look at my show The Island With Bear Grylls to see that. It is so tempting for the contestants to simply lie there exhausted and do nothing, especially when 118 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Wings Pro 2 by Salomon Designed to protect your feet from both the terrain and the elements, these shoes can handle the toughest adventure courses you can find. £115.

they’re tired, starving and dehydrated. When you’re dealing with life or death, however, the only way to survive is to set yourself goals, no matter how small. It might just be building a roof for the shelter or collecting firewood. But by managing these bite-sized challenges, you eventually arrive somewhere meaningful and that’s how you move from surviving to thriving. I’ve written before in this column about regarding failure as a stepping stone to success. It’s worth repeating in this context because accepting life as a challenge means accepting the possibility of failure. But remember: the only time we really fail is when we stop trying. We need to embrace failure and keep out of our comfort zone – or comfort pit, as I prefer to call it. The ride will be bumpy – if it’s not, your challenge isn’t significant enough – but the best shock absorber on a bumpy road is a good sense of humour and a bloody-minded resolve to keep going. We run a series of adventure races and it’s amazing to see how people love to get out at the weekend and do something physical, muddy and challenging – me included. It pushes us, shocks us, scares us but ultimately leaves us empowered, proud, laughing and tired. To me, it’s proof positive that people like to have obstacles to conquer – but not just physical challenges. These principles cover so much of life. In your relationships, in your work, in your studies, in all these arenas: aim high, accept that it’s not going to be easy, relish the struggle and go for it. Blaze a trail towards those obstacles, and remember: if you’ve set yourself a real challenge, and you’re doing it right, there should only be one path, and that’s the one behind you. This year, the Bear Grylls Survival Race & Outdoor Family Festival will be at Cambridge, Manchester, Edinburgh and London. For more information, visit

Harrods’ sailing department For all your nautical needs, visit the Harrods Sailing Room. This season will feature clothing from the likes of Musto, Henri Lloyd and North Sails. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1.



All hands on deck Preparation for sailing is not just determined by the weather conditions – the demands of the sport are dependent on the type of class you are competing in and your individual crew position. Good underlying aerobic fitness is important for quick recovery from bursts of all-out effort while still being able to think clearly and make good decisions – decisions that can affect everyone on board. Because sailing takes place on an unstable, constantly shifting surface, balance and coordination are important. Injury prevention should also be taken into consideration. Sailboat racing is physically and mentally demanding. It requires repetitive high-intensity effort, so improving muscular strength, endurance, core strength and balance will give you a competitive advantage and help you to get the most out of your boat.

The plan Exercise 1

Plank to press-up In press-up position, maintaining good alignment, place right forearm on floor then left forearm. Straighten right arm then left arm returning to start position and repeat. Perform 3 sets of 10 repetitions (5 leading with right arm and 5 leading with left arm). Rest 45 seconds between sets.

Photographs Getty Images; Ben Riggott; Jody Todd Model Alex Nicholl at W Model Management Grooming Chloe Botting using Kiehl’s

Exercise 2

Burpee with press-up, jump, front roll and side down Push up position, draw in abs, perform one press-up. Jump feet forward, pick up dumbbells and squat jump landing upright. Roll the dumbbells forward hand over hand, raising arms in front to vertical. Once vertical, lower arms out and down to sides returning to start position. 10-20 fast reps.

Exercise 3

Underhand lat pull-down Sitting upright, take a shoulder width underhand grip. Breathe out as you pull the bar down to your chest just under your chin, drawing your elbows down behind your back. Breathe in as you return to the start position. Perform 3 sets of 10/20/30 reps, with 90 seconds rest between sets. For more information visit:, AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 119

Get the Midas touch Don’t just swipe right or left – try up and down and round as well. OMGYes is the handy new website training men (and women) in the art of arousal “MMM, yeah, like that. Keep it right there, that’s so good.” Alba is telling me exactly how she likes to be touched. Alba is a brown-eyed New Yorker. And I am intent on her vulva. Like her, it is tan and youthfully rounded. “When I tell you I’m close, don’t you change anything. Hhhhhhn, that’s good.” Her sex is shuddering. As my finger circles her clitoris my whole body is poised to please her; my right foot rotates in time with my wrist – and OMG, yes! The screen reverts to its title page and, ladies and gentleman, I have mastered a new technique. Sex education site OMGYes launched at the beginning of this year. Produced in San Francisco, it is based on detailed research of how 2,000 women reach orgasm through clitoral stimulation and has marvellously in-depth analysis of the 12 most popular techniques. This includes videos of women describing and demonstrating their approaches – as well as artificially intelligent reproductions of their vulvas, which respond to stimulation via your touchscreen. Fans include Emma Watson who, on stage at a London event with feminist Gloria Steinem, commented, “I wish it had been around longer. Definitely check it out. It’s an expensive subscription, but worth it.” At a one-off payment, currently £19, OMGYes will not break the bank. But who is it for? Is it an essential destination for any man wanting to please a woman? Or more a wonderfully pro-femme path to help less experienced gals find their way into the pleasure garden? Lydia Daniller, the open-minded lesbian who founded the site with her straight college-mate Rob Perkins, believes simply that the more knowledge we all have, the better. “I live in San Francisco and our friendship 120 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

group talks openly about sex and pleasure. We all share stories and learn so much from each other.” One detail that emerged from their conversation is that half the women prefer to be stimulated consistently (“Keep doing that, exactly the same”) and the other half liked to be kept guessing (“Switch it up”). “We looked to see if there was research around these two different approaches, and were really surprised to discover that no one had ever researched it before.” So they set up a company and interviewed 2,000 women about what gets them off. “We found that certain patterns of stimulation kept re-emerging.” Perhaps the numbers speak for themselves. Two months after opening, 40,000 people have joined, split evenly between men and women. And what are they learning? The first chapter of information – “Season 1” – opens with 12 techniques, such as “orbiting”, “edging” and “accenting”. The orbiting page, for example, states: “Seventy-eight per cent of women build more intense pleasure with continuous motions around the clit. This is because each woman has ‘hot spots’ that feel best... And for most women, pleasure only builds when those hot spots are stimulated over and over. A circular motion covers the territory, even as the spots change.” Now to the technique, surely the most remarkable and useful part of the project. First, via highlighted diagrams and illustrations, we look at the key orbiting variables: location of where you touch and pressure. The most stimulating combinations of the two are then depicted on a moving cartoon of a vulva. So far, so thorough. But this is only the start. Next, the site introduces Diana. In a video, this well-spoken black woman with dreads and a hairless pussy explains and demonstrates double circles (one circle round the clitoris, the other in an opposite direction in the vaginal opening). Now it’s the turn of Sonya and Maria to show their preferred styles. And on to more diagrams – eight more variations, including “widening ovals” and “soft-hard figure eight”, are explained before you get to the simulation. And this is something else again. Yes, meet Maria’s vulva, which will move under your touch, provoking compliments or instruction until you please her right. The simulation is remarkable. Much as an astronaut can practise going into space in a gravity-free pod in Milton Keynes, here alone on your sofa you can rehearse your next Casanova routine. Once Maria has shown you how she pleases herself with her “Daily Grind”,

you go to her virtual pleasure zone and a small arrow will show the “half circle with clitoris pull-up” that she particularly likes. Is it sexy? Spending too long staring at a vulva close up and I find it less erotic than zoological. Furthermore, I am considerably more gifted in some areas than others. So accenting, in which you pay special attention to one area of the clitoris, comes easy (ahem). But edging, in which you let her get close then pull back, I find wholly frustrating (as I might in real life). “Work close to my clitoris,” Amber intones. So I am, I am... But there is nothing to feel, no obvious shape of the clitoris to follow. And I’m getting repetitive strain in my wrist. What a waste of sexual energy and interest to be pouring so much focus into an iPad. Amber gets cross if I stop. “Hey, where did you go? I was enjoying that.” It is interesting to imagine Ms Watson labouring away. There’s another thing. Even amid the frustration, the disconnection imposed by the flat

Photographs Bruno Dayan/Trunk Archive; Jody Todd


LIFE screen and the entirely unromantic shot of futurologist Ian Pearson expects that by 2035 Amber’s genitals, I’m getting turned on. robot-human sex will start to be more prevalent than human-human intercourse. OMGYes may be the first experience many of us have of a world where a great deal of sex is For now, however, the real world vulva(s) tech-enabled. From the radical improvements you hold nearest or dearest surely merit an evening spent scrolling through this in remote sex – through a phalanx of new short-distance, remote-controlled site. Casanovas may benefit from vibrators or long-distance, the patient feedback, and long internet-based toys – to the distance lovers from the depth remarkable rise of artificially of ideas. Lydia comments that in their studies they intelligent sex dolls, we’re entering the age of the Beast found that couples who kept of men in the UK claim to have With Two Backs 2.0. seeking new sensual techslept with over ten people in their lifetime and yet only 21 Then there is the erotic niques were 12 times more per cent of women make the opportunity afforded by likely to be sexually satisfied same confession. Who in their relationship. virtual reality. As Oculus Rift do you believe? goes on sale – the company was All of which suggests you pay bought for £1.4 billion by Mark your £19 in the pursuit of better Zuckerberg, who believes that “VR is soon pleasing the pudenda. “When I discovered going to be our most social platform” – it may edging I was shocked by how much it intenbe that your Tinder date will virtually test sified my orgasm,” says Marina, a singer who you before deigning to meet IRL. Indeed, it lives in west London. “I dance closer and then may be that the ability to manipulate digital further away... The results are astonishing.” genitalia becomes more relevant. Certainly Rebecca Newman

Dressing for work or work-outs


Lessons in lust: OMGYes imparts the wisdom of 2,000 women through interactive touchscreen demos

CYCLE SHIRT BY HARDVARK Whether you sport a Lycra ensemble and huge backpack full of work clothes or brave it in a sweaty suit, cycling to work is all too often distinctly un-chic. Luckily, Hardvark’s sweat-proof commuter shirt has arrived to tackle this issue. It’s smart enough for meetings but with the added bonus of performing like a high-tech merino base layer. It “warms, stretches, breathes, won’t wrinkle and (most crucially) resists odour”. The product of a two-year development process, it has already been seen on the backs of Arnold Schwarzenegger and Brad Pitt. Perhaps their most alluring component is that they don’t need ironing, meaning that being smart, cool and backpack-free on your way to work requires next to no effort at all. £139.

XAVIER ATHLETICA The work-and-gym-proof Xavier Athletica collection is inspired by the unstoppable “athleisure” trend and the rise of casual office style. It’s made up of off-duty shirts, hoodies and T-shirts created with no more than a tiny ratio of man-made fibres – minimising perspiration and ensuring the garments will comfortably (and tastefully) carry you through from work to lunch to gym. Style is, of course, at the forefront of the Steve McQueeninspired collection, which has been worn by Daniel Craig and Samuel L Jackson. The designer is a trained tailor and, best of all, it is a British brand. Maintaining the work, life and exercise balance can be tricky – but doing so in the same set of clothes is now a hell of From a lot easier. Polly Foreman £50 for a vest.



All round goodness

Spinach and mozzarella from Amy’s Kitchen

Thin and crispy chicken from Waitrose

High-protein chicken and peppers from Musclefood

Yep, spinach is good for you, and Amy’s Kitchen uses organic unbleached wheat flour and extra virgin olive oil for its base. One slice comes in at just over 200 calories – 100 fewer than many margheritas. £3.74.

Standard supermarket pizzas pack an obscene amount of calories into something that can look healthy. However, with this creation you can eat a third and still have had fewer than 300 calories. Plus the salt content, at 1.15g per slice, is way less than some supermarket pizzas. £4.25.

With less than half the fat content and calories of a standard takeaway, these protein-packed pizzas are ferocious fuel for gym rats. Made with a pea base instead of the standard bread flour, this Musclefood pizza has a frankly pathetic 73-82 calories per slice and a whole one packs in as much protein as three chicken breasts. Its ham and mushroom topping is a bit bland, but this one is very good. £4.95.

Colossal carb crash. Dietwrecking deep-pan disaster. These are the feelings that go through our minds when we wake up to find a greasestained takeaway box in our kitchen. But pizza doesn’t have to be a journey into the dough of despond. These crust-based creations are the healthiest in Britain. Home cook


Le Integrali from Rossopomodoro

Bases from Amisa and Biona

Rossopomodoro imports ingredients directly from Naples, but it also has a handy secret. Wholewheat pizzas have a habit of being incredibly hard to digest, so by proofing their dough for 24 hours, Rossopomodoro reduces that bloated feeling you get from eating pizzas of lower provenance. That means your belt won’t strain and you won’t feel the need to lie down with an entire series of House Of Cards when you get home. From £10.95.

Creating your own wellbehaved pizza means starting with the base. Amisa makes gluten-free pizza bases and Biona make spelt and organic wholemeal bases. For toppings, NHS nutritionist Sally Long says, “Use as much fresh food as you possibly can – pizzas suit it so well. Try low-fat feta, sun blush tomato and olives. Or maybe prawns, avocado, spinach and asparagus.” Rob Crossan Amisa bases, two for £3.15. Biona bases, two for £3.45.

Leggera from Pizza Express Pizza Express is a British high-street staple, and its “Leggera” range is the pizza equivalent of a Polo mint – the middle is cut out and replaced with a surprisingly delicious salad. None of the four toppings come in at more than 525 calories. That, quite frankly, is bordering on the miraculous. From £10.70.

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Margherita from Basilico

Flower Power by Hemsley + Hemsley

Sacrifice those tempting toppings and a Basilico margherita offers a seriously mean calorie count. One slice of its takeaway pizza is just 99 calories. Says CEO Geoff Parsons, “The crust is thinner and we use a secret blend of flours.” From £9.45.

The Hemsley sisters have a few wonderfully innovative pizza recipes, including this one made with a cauliflower, buckwheat and ground almond base, and topped with Parma ham, rocket and Parmesan. Hemsley + Hemsley: The Art Of Eating Well (Ebury, £25) is out now.

Courgette and hummus by Eating Bird Food One of our favourite food blogs is American Brittany Mullins’ Eating Bird Food. The site has heaps of pizzas, including this gluten- and dairy-free recipe using courgette. It takes ten minutes to make, though the feeling of having a clean conscious lasts a lot longer.

Photographs Alamy; Getty Images

Eat out


The French connection Grey Goose opens up the doors to the French home of its ultimate premium vodka for the very first time


An exquisite 17th-century French manor home, hidden in the heart of the verdant countryside of Juillac-le-Coq in south-west France... A home furnished with sublime French craftsmanship complete with landscaped gardens, swimming pool and its own vineyard and bakery... This is Le Logis; the brand home of Grey Goose, an extraordinary vodka with a truly out-of-thisworld dwelling. It’s one that has always been out of bounds to the public, until now. Over two weekends this summer, Le Logis is opening its doors for the very first time, giving exclusive access to a world of beautifully crafted summer moments and experiences in a series of weekend escapes that simply cannot be found elsewhere. Grey Goose’s team of experts are always on hand, too; offering cocktail masterclasses, local dishes and an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour hosted by Grey Goose creator and Cellar Master François Thibault (left), plus in-house bakery sessions where the same wheat used to create Grey Goose’s rounded and smooth character is crafted by guests into the perfect French baguette. This is a weekend break where the only dilemma comes from whether you should indulge in a game of pétanque on the lawn, ride a vintage bicycle around the in-house vineyard or simply recline by the pool with a perfectly crafted cocktail. Luxurious. Discreet and utterly enthralling. This is Grey Goose distilled into a secret, unforgettable getaway experience.

Le Logis is open on 4-6 and 25-27 August. To book go to luxe travel experts Brown and Hudson ( greygoose). Prices from £1,300pp including return airport transfers from Bordeaux and Angoulême, two nights in a twin or double room and all meals and experiences.

Pamela who?

Baywatch is back, but this time as an irony-aware big-screen comedy reboot. And now Cali’s heroes are being led out by the new CJ, KELLY ROHRBACH, who dons the iconic red swimsuit to tell GQ about parties, on-set wedgies and how a Lamda-trained East Coast debutante became the definitive new Malibu beach babe


Norman Jean Roy

‘I don’t feel any shyness – it’s the California girl in me’ Swimsuit by Baywatch costume designer, Dayna Pink. Necklace by Jennifer Fisher, £1,080.


Deborah Afshani


Alex Bhattacharji


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“Hi. It’s Kelly Rohrbach

Would you mind if we met inside at the bar downstairs instead? The actress-turned-model-turned-actress is calling me from the car to tweak our original plan of drinks on the rooftop at The Peninsula Beverly Hills hotel. “Look at the weather,” she continues. “I kind of love it, but I don’t have a jacket.” As the rest of the northern hemisphere is shedding layers to mark the arrival of summer and sun and fun, Southern California is pulling up the covers. Although it is only late May, the Los Angeles area has already graduated from “May gray” to the meteorological funk known as “June gloom”, the annual run of dark, overcast days when LA does its best impression of London. For the uninitiated, this atmospheric anomaly can cast the ideal of sun, sand, surfboards and bikinis in a very different light. Much as Rohrbach, the swimsuit sensation and star of the upcoming Baywatch movie, does when she strides into the dimly lit, oak-walled bar and looks longingly at the occupied seats by the fireplace. “I’ll have a tea – chamomile. With honey,” she tells the waitress, as if parodying a whisky on the rocks order. Then she turns to me: “Do you maybe want something a little harder?” In one deft stroke, Rohrbach has made me feel more comfortable and savvier than the sum of her IMDB profile. “I have a love affair with this place. I love it here,” the 26-year-old explains as we sit. “I’m an LA girl, a Cali girl – a Cali girl from Connecticut.” Rohrbach (the “bach” is pronounced like the composer) was born in New York City and raised in the leafy suburban town of Greenwich, Connecticut, a bastion of the preppy elite that was the birthplace of the Bush political dynasty. She attended an exclusive all-girls academy in the town and became something of a golf prodigy after learning to play with her father, a wealthy financier. But her rapid ascent into our collective consciousness has less to do with privilege than providence. “There is no one luckier than me. I’ve been so lucky my dad calls me Forrest Gump,” she says. And indeed she has chased and attained her goals with a winning lack of guile. “I think 126 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

sometimes naivety can be a gift,” she says. Consider her plan of attack for breaking into Hollywood: “I googled ‘top ten talent agencies’,” Rohrbach says, dead serious, and follows it with a sorry-it’s-true shrug. “I just picked one, went there and got signed. I was like ‘Hey, I’d like an agent, would you like to be my agent?’ And they were like, ‘That’s not how this works... but uh, sure.’” You can be forgiven if you aren’t familiar with Rohrbach’s early work – a slow but steady stream of parts, mostly in sitcoms and police procedural series. Some let her use her acting muscles, others not so much (one particularly brazen but aptly named role was “Young Hottie”). Almost on a lark, she decided to try her luck again with modelling. “It’s sort of similar,” she says. “I went to the agency. I was like, ‘I’ve never really modelled before but maybe I could try?’” On the strength of a few test photographs, Rohrbach was cast in the 2015 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue, a springboard to success for Christie Brinkley, Elle Macpherson, Heidi Klum and, more recently, Bar Refaeli, Brooklyn Decker and Kate Upton. She was voted Rookie Of The Year by readers for what was her first professional modelling shoot. The images show her in one bikini after another, except for the one where she wears nothing at all and just holds her two-piece, placing it quite judiciously. ohrbach is the type of person who’s so comfortable in her own skin that she never had any problem showing a bit of it. “That doesn’t intimidate me at all,” she says of revealing her body in photographs or on film. “I don’t feel any shyness. In the summer I’m always walking around in a bathing suit and I never wear shoes. I’m very ‘one love’ so that doesn’t bother me. I think that’s the California girl in me.” And so it comes full circle with Rohrbach. Her identification with the easy-going, laidback lifestyle is no affectation. Ask about her routine and it’s a list of hikes in the Hollywood Hills and around the coves of Malibu, advanced yoga workshops and the


beach. “I’ve become the quintessential LA person, to an embarrassingly clichéd level. I’m like, ‘Let’s go for a hike and get a green juice.’ That’s a perfect Saturday to me. I hate being that cliché but, damn, it’s also really nice.” Rohrbach also proudly proclaims herself a homebody, although she confesses to having plans for later this night. “I have to go to a dinner where I’m gonna have a tea and then be in bed by ten.” She laughs then explains that she may be in the glamorous worlds of modelling and acting, but she is not of them. “I’m not a ‘Daaaaarling, we must hang out’ type,” she says. And come awards season, rather than chasing invites to every event and RSVPing to all the pre- and post-parties, she’s one to make apologies. “’I’m really sick in bed,” she says of her preferred white lie – and adds a convincing fake cough. It comes back to her being comfortable in her own skin and knowing who she is and also who she isn’t. “I’m not really a party girl. I don’t really like partying. I like to have fun but I don’t really like to ‘party’ party.” All of which makes the year she spent modelling – a period during which she split time between Los Angeles and New York and became involved with Leonardo DiCaprio – seem like a curious aberration. Rohrbach found herself a fixture in the gossip pages – for such shocking behaviour as taking a bike ride around New York with her beau. There was tabloid speculation that she was the one who would tame the playboy. Her Instagram showed her on his yacht. Rumours swirled that the pair were engaged. When they parted ways, reports suggested her parents disapproved of the then 40-year-old Wolf Of Wall Street star. For her part, Rohrbach says she doesn’t want to get into it, but rather than stiffen up and issue a coached “no comment” she demurs casually, with an insouciant shrug. She is living the single life, though what that means is unclear, even to her. “I just finished my movie [Baywatch] on Friday. Honestly, I’ve been working for the past six months straight so I don’t know. I don’t know what my social life is yet. I’m off to a birthday dinner right now – like any girl in her twenties, right?”


‘I know, people have preconceptions about me, but I just don’t care’

Swimsuit by God Save Queens, £79. Vintage visor. At Palace Costume. AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 127

‘I’m a big believer in not taking myself seriously’

Swimsuit by Norma Kamali, £205. At Sunglasses by Oliver Peoples, £233. At Sunglasses Shop. 128 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016


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Swimsuit by Moeva, £200. Opposite: Swimsuit by Baywatch costume designer, Dayna Pink. Necklace by Jennifer Fisher, £1,080.

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‘I love unlikable characters. I find them fascinating’ AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 131

When I tell Rohrbach that I don’t honestly know, she laughs. “I don’t know either. What are the kids doing these days?” If nothing else, Rohrbach uses her oldsoul ways to winsome effect. She pokes fun at herself for driving what she calls a “cool grandma” car. “I am a grandma – a fun grandma, but a grandma,” she says. “Maybe when I’m 90 I’ll rebel and have a convertible and purple hair.” Although the rigours of modern modelling require her to post frequently on social media Rohrbach remains charmingly oblivious to advances in technology. She is always proposing billion-dollar ideas for apps to her friends – apps that have already been made. “I’m like, ‘Guys, what about an app where you could get music even if you don’t want to buy it?’ They’re like, ‘Yeah, Kelly, that’s called Spotify.’” Behind that ditziness is a well-read, welltravelled, well-adjusted twentysomething who never feels the need to flaunt her smarts. “I’m a big believer in not taking yourself seriously,” Rohrbach says. “So some people are like, ‘Oh, she’s just a pretty face,’ or this and that. All right, so I have a pretty face. OK, cool. Thank you, by the way.” And she isn’t burdened by any lingering worries or insecurities about being not taken seriously. “Everyone’s so scared of labels. ‘Oh, she’s a model,’” Rohrbach says. “Yeah, I am a model. I did do that and now I’m also doing something else. I think the world is way more caught up in the phrase ‘model-turned-actress’ than I am. I know there are definitely preconceptions in people’s minds, but I just don’t really care.” Besides, the model-turned-actress notion isn’t accurate. Unlike so many waifish gamines who have walked the runways as teens, Rohrbach came to modelling late, in her twenties, a half decade after she began acting. She caught the bug at Georgetown University, the alma mater of another pretty face who turned out to be a proper actor, Bradley Cooper. She also spent a year training at the London Academy Of Music And Dramatic Art, honing her craft on the Shakespearean canon. And she remains a student of the art: before our meeting, she was busy reading the latest in a long list of plays, she watches and dissects classic cinema and pores over screenplays every chance she gets.

t’s hard to foresee what sort of career Rohrbach will have as an actress, or even what kind of actress she is. However, she has managed to make an impression on prestige filmmakers. She was cast by Woody Allen in his most recent film, Café Society. But the scenes she filmed were cut after her onscreen husband, Bruce Willis, had to leave the film. Far from dampening her enthusiasm for acting, it emboldened her. Landing the part of CJ in Baywatch – the character made famous by Pamela Anderson in the long-running TV show – provides her a major opportunity: it’s not only a massive movie, but it lets her play to her strengths and stretch herself. In this comedic remake, Rohrbach’s CJ is not simply a statuesque lifeguard but a quirky, slyly funny loon. Comedy is a natural fit for Rohrbach, though her personal tastes run a bit darker. She counts Cate Blanchett in Blue Jasmine and Charlize Theron in Young Adult among the roles that inspire her. “I love unlikeable characters. I find them fascinating,” she explains. “The world is uncomfortable with a really-ugly-on-the-inside woman. So uncomfortable. I think that’s funny.” Since she returned from shooting Baywatch, Rohrbach has been reading scripts, auditioning, and meeting producers. Where the role will take her remains an open question. On one hand, consider that Anderson was never able to launch her movie career (unless you count home videos). On the other, interest in the movie is high. The tabloids obsessively chronicled the shoot and the Daily Mail took an almost unnatural interest in Rohrbach. “That’s the only website that picks everything up,” she says. “It’s like Kelly Rohrbach walks on set; Kelly Rohrbach drinks a Coca-Cola. It was the weirdest thing. I’m not famous.” This is the point where you remind Rohrbach of the ivory-skinned, impossibly long-legged, positively luminous elephant in the room: her appearance. But she pays you no mind. And when you mention the fact she and her costars were in barely swimsuits, she shrugs it off. “I’m happy people are excited about the movie. But I was like, ‘God, I just wanna eat a bag of Doritos but there’s paparazzi everywhere, f***! It stunk because there was


no privacy. You’re in bathing suits but when they call action you’re definitely sucking in your gut. They call cut and you’re like, ‘Ahhh.” The prying cameras captured more intimate moments, too. “My suit was that neoprene scuba gear material so it really rides up. They would use glue and tape it to my bum so it wouldn’t make a wedgie wrinkle. Every day the paparazzi would shoot the costume designers doing the glue and there would be a picture of somebody with a brush, putting Elmer’s glue on my bum.” She laughs at the absurdity of the scene and the prying lenses. “I’m like, ‘Guys I don’t think this is gonna get a lot of clicks. I am not famous.’” Of course, the only cliché more common in Hollywood than “not just a pretty face” is “the reluctant star” for whom fame breeds deep ambivalence and unease. Rohrbach has a different view of her notoriety: outright denial. “No one thinks I’m famous,” she says, and for the first time she shows some selfconsciousness. “Please don’t make that a thing. Because I’m really not... It’s lame to say you aren’t famous when you really aren’t famous.” Of course, fame can be measured and defined in all sorts of ways. To Rohrbach, it manifests itself as intrusion. “If your quality of life is impaired by the attention,” she explains, “or if you’re being bothered, that’s what fame would be to me. Nobody bothers me.” A few minutes later, we exchange goodbyes – Rohrbach has to leave for her friend’s birthday dinner. On her way out of the hotel, she is followed by a middle-aged man in a suit. Clearly excited, he runs out of the lobby after Rohrbach and accosts her. But this is not the prurient advance of your average admirer. Rohrbach, the absolutely not famous homebody with the right-place-right-time luck of Forrest Gump has bumped into one of the heavyweight producers she’d met a few days earlier. They chat quite seriously for several minutes. “We’ll definitely talk again soon. I am so glad I ran into you,” he tells Rohrbach as the valet pulls up with her car. As she climbs in, Rohrbach catches my eye and shrugs then pulls away in her grandma mobile, very slowly. Baywatch is out next year.

KR y LA The Baywatch star gives GQ the skinny on the best of her adopted hometown (because Los Angeles needn’t only be Soul Cycle and kale smoothies...) CHECK IN y“The Hotel Bel-Air is such a beautiful hotel,” Rohrbach says of the secluded Spanish-style resort. “It feels like you’re staying in Hawaii.” VISIT THIS yIn Rohrbach’s mind, everyone should take in something touristy: Universal Studios theme park; open-air concerts at the Hollywood Bowl. And embrace the

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culturally revitalised Los Angeles at The Broad (pronounced “brode”), perhaps the hottest art museum in America. GET LOST yRohrbach’s favourite hiking routes are in and around Malibu, on the coast just north of LA. Try Zuma and Trancas Canyons or one of the seaside trails at

El Matador State Beach. In the evening, Rohrbach suggests a film at the Silent Movie Theatre, AKA the Cinefamily, in Hollywood’s Fairfax area. Don’t worry – they play talkies. EAT ME yRohrbach calls Madeo in West Hollywood, her neighbourhood, “the best Italian in LA”. And she gushes about the barbecue-lovers’

destination Reddi Chik (“Get the chicken fingers”) and Sweet Rose Creamery, both in Brentwood Country Mart. In the opinion of Rohrbach – and many – the best place to have cocktails in Los Angeles is The Tower Bar at the Sunset Tower Hotel, a temple of art deco architecture steeped in Hollywood glamour.

KELLY ROHRBACH’S BEST CALIFORNIA BEACH DAY y “Start with a morning smoothie at Juice Crafters in Brentwood on your way to the Pacific Coast Highway, take a beach hike, then continue up to the Malibu Country Mart. Then hit every beach, beach, beach on the way home!”


Swimsuit by Norma Kamali, £245. At matchesfashion. com. Cuffs by Jennifer Fisher, £906 each.

‘Maybe when I’m 90 I’ll rebel and have a convertible and purple hair’

Creative director Paul Solomons Hair Johnnie Sapong at Jedroot Make-up Sarah Uslan at Jedroot Manicurist Barbara Warner at Jedroot Prop stylist Laura Howett Photographer’s assistants Paul Gilmore, Fred Lam Stylist’s assistant Kirsten Alvarez Production Cat Farber and Kendall Stewart at Portfolio One

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‘I’m a completely fearless musician. My core is grime’


Stefan Heinrichs Bomber jacket by Burberry, £2,140. T-shirt by James Perse, £60. Both at

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Meet Stormzy, the 22-year-old leading a UK musical revolution. This is grime mark 2: uncensored, unsigned, but finally going mainstream, drawing in Drake, Kanye and Adele, outselling BeyoncÊ and dropping a brick in the stagnant pond of the British charts. STORY BY

Eleanor Halls

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battle cry resonates across the car park. A mob of school kids hurtles towards the stationary, blacked-out Audi A5 like iron filings to a magnet, their eyes wide and white. Greedy hands snake through the windows. “We can smell it! We can smell it! Give us some!” they yell, gleefully eyeing the joint as Stormzy, AKA 22-year-old south London grime sensation Michael Omari, takes a long drag with a cheeky, close-lipped smile. “I can’t give you any of this, but I’ll give you some Adidas trainers,” he promises, easing his tall frame out of his car and wading into the sea of small bodies as he makes his way to the boot full of fresh “creps”. The scene is part American Gangster, part Bad Santa. Moments later, Omari’s 19-year-old DJ (DJ Tiiny) is banging on the car window, hissing, “Feds, feds!” The mob scatters and within seconds the police are at the car. The rapper gazes at them angelically. “What is that?” A policeman’s face peers at the joint. “Put that out right now. You’re outside a school.” “Sorry, boss,” Omari apologises, revving the engine provocatively. Palming any incriminating evidence, he turns up the volume on the car stereo and leaves the police and his old school behind in the rear-view mirror. The car’s exhaust, together with Omari’s booming laugh, rolls through the estate like thunder. Little wonder that Michael “Stormzy” Omari is getting quite so high and laughing quite so hard. A fundamental change is occurring in British music and Omari is driving it. For the past two years, grime music has slowly crept out from the underground and gatecrashed UK music’s brave new commercial landscape. For the first time since 2003, when Dizzee Rascal’s pioneering album Boy In Da Corner became the first grime record to make a dent in the mainstream, the genre is becoming more than just the gritty sound of London’s streets. Unsigned and uncensored, Omari is Generation Y’s Malcolm McLaren and Johnny Rotten rolled into one, pushing grime to be the dominant sound of the UK’s fired-up, engaged youth. Technically, grime is defined by an MC “spitting” bars of 16 lines over 140 beats per minute. A relatively new genre that evolved from garage – with elements of Jamaican dancehall and dubstep – grime emerged in the UK at the start of the millennium. For its 2016 resurgence, however, the scene is entering a new phase. Where once grime was stymied by infighting, feuds and the threat of gun violence, this new scene is not only looking inwards but is also hungry for success and acclaim outside its own circle. Through artists such as Omari, there is a willingness to collaborate, most notably with bigger, more global stars, such as Drake and Kanye West. At last year’s Brits, West invited 40 grime


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artists – including Omari – on stage with him for his performance of “All Day”. At this year’s ceremony Drake decided to ditch the official afterparty and went to east London’s Village Underground to perform with “road rap” group Section Boyz and Skepta, who co-owns the grime label Boy Better Know (BBK). After the show, Skepta – another of the scene’s most successful players, whose recent album Konnichiwa charted at No2, beating Beyoncé’s Lemonade no less – announced to the crowd that Drake had signed to his label, indicative of grime entering a new era. Artists such as Drake and Kanye want what money can’t buy – ice-cold authenticity. Even Adele is hopeful some of grime’s cool cachet will rub off on her squeaky clean image. When she performed at The O2 in April she dedicated “Make You Feel My Love” to Stormzy. Ever since the Beatles, UK artists have always dreamed of breaking the US. Coldplay did it. Take That? Not so much. Yet in an almost unprecedented move, UK grime artists, including Omari, are being wooed and courted on their home turf by some of the US’s biggest music stars. Chris Price, head of Radio 1, has gone as far as to say that grime could become Britain’s “next big cultural export”.

iding shotgun for the day with Omari, conversation is punctuated by fleeting fits of road rage. “I hate being back in the ends,” he says. “You know everyone.” The ends (home), for Omari, are here in South Norwood, where he was raised, along with two older sisters, by a Ghanaian single mother and attended the notoriously rough Stanley Tech school (now Harris Academy), before being expelled in sixth form. “My school was nasty, the kind of school where people go on to become convicted murderers,” he explains. “I was a little prick, too – I’d be the one to throw a sandwich at someone’s head in assembly.” Omari’s voice is rich and resonant – the kind of voice for which no amplification is needed. Words have always appealed to the young rapper. As a child, Omari would spend his school holidays holed up at a Croydon library. He now acknowledges the influence reading those books had on him, such as Malorie


Blackman’s Noughts And Crosses. “I read so many when I was a kid that I didn’t even know they were shaping me.” Aged eleven, he started rapping over beats, mostly after school with friends who were into the same music. They would practice over instrumentals ripped from LimeWire, hoping to get onto TV grime platform ChannelU. PreYouTube, ChannelU (now Channel AKA) was the only place in Britain that hosted DIY music videos sent in by aspiring UK urban musicians. “To us, grime artists were hood stars,” Omari tells me, his eyes off the road and, alarmingly, both hands off the wheel and clasped around his iPhone and a spliff. “My older sister was into grime, so she got me into it. When I was ten, I begged her to take me to my first house party, where there were decks and a mic. I ended up falling asleep standing up in the corner.” After Omari was expelled from school, his sister got him a job at Screwfix before he moved to Leamington Spa to embark on a twoyear engineering placement. Although Omari failed to graduate, he didn’t leave without learning a significant lesson. “I made the decision to stop being a gangster. I remember walking into a room and seeing about 17 white faces.” All his classmates were “lads”, mucking about and roasting one another. Although used to tough talk, their behaviour shocked the young MC. “Growing up in the ends you don’t do that. You meet someone, you’re wary of them; you already don’t trust them. There’s no time to make a joke.” However, he grew bored of his own reluctance to join in with the class banter. He softened. “I realised I didn’t want to be the bad boy in the corner, not talking.” Dropping out aged 19, Omari moved back to live with his mother. He knew it was the moment to concentrate on his music fulltime. In 2014, he released an EP Dreamers Disease, which won a Mobo award – unsigned and without management. “[Back then] I was talking about myself in the third person and signing off emails pretending to be my own publicist,” he laughs. His rise was rapid and his instinct for a golden marketing opportunity would come to prove invaluable. In December 2015, the British boxer Anthony Joshua asked the south London rapper to

The new grime scene is hungry for success and acclaim



Ewen Spencer

‘I want to show every bit of myself... my darkest thoughts and secrets’ Stormzy

Making a scene (clockwise from top left): Kano jumps into the crowds at his Brighton gig, April 2016; Stormzy in South Norwood, where he grew up; Madders performing at Radar Radio, March 2016; the crowd at Eskimo Dance, 5 March 2016; Stormzy and his manager, Toby, outside his old school, Harris Academy; Jammer at his parents’ house in Leytonstone; Ramzey performing at Radar Radio, March 2016

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give a ringside performance of “Shut Up” for his bout against Dillian Whyte. The fight was held at The O2 Arena in front of 20,000 baying fans and many more viewers watching at home. Immediately after the performance the hashtag #ShutUpForXmasNo1 went viral. We pull up outside South Norwood Lake, where Omari filmed the video for “Shut Up”, and meander across soggy grass to the courts where he and his friends shoot hoops with a couple of school kids. Search “Shut Up” on YouTube and you’ll come across a video – now viewed over 32 million times – of a group of men in tracksuits congregated in a park. It starts with Omari drinking from a bottle of water before delivering the first killer line: “Man try say he’s better than me, tell my man shut up.” The video ends when Omari can’t finish and collapses into laughter; it’s candid, funny and utterly endearing, not something you can say about every rap video. “It’s mad to think I was just a kid from south London, rapping in parks with friends,” he marvels. It’s getting late and Omari must head back to the west London studio to work on his album, due later this month. I wait by the blacked-out Audi while the rapper and his friends engage in yet another stick fight. By now, even the school kids have wandered home, bored and hungry. Omari, however, is still smiling. You feel Omari’s sense of wonder is genuine and heartfelt. Previously, grime was cold, threatening and violent. In 2016, the music is more optimistic and less about posturing gangster clichés. Omari’s style plays with a very British sense of humour, one where ego is muddled with mischief and banter. In another video for his first successful track, “Know Me From”, the MC walks towards the camera with his mother, his confrontational gait disarmed by the fact both are wearing matching grey tracksuits. There is something inescapably Ali G about it. n a lecture theatre at Saint Catherine’s College, Oxford, a suited undergraduate is pontificating over his love of grime. “The lyrics are powerful; the energy is unmatched by any other genre,” he explains, adjusting his glasses. We’re waiting for Omari to arrive. He had been invited by the Oxford Guild Business Society to deliver a speech about his career and 7,000 students have balloted for a seat – a symbolic moment for the 22-year-old rapper, whose mother’s dream was to send him off to study at the prestigious university. He’s already half an hour late. “Grime is the ‘it’ thing right now. It’s not frightening any more,” explains a second year student on my left. “Girls love it. It’s what you want to be caught listening to,” he admits. Finally, Omari arrives with his mother, his


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Fast living: Lethal Bizzle – a grime pioneer for the past decade – sits in a Lamborghini in Shoreditch, London, May 2016

‘I remember raves full of gunshots’ D Double E manager and DJ Tiiny in tow. The rapper’s grin is as wide as a canoe; to say he is pleased to be here is something of an understatement. “You lot are flippin’ geniuses!” he exclaims. His excitement is met with an awkward silence. The talk presses ahead despite the restless atmosphere. First question: “Would you consider going back to university?” Omari looks baffled. “Nah, you know what, I think I might be OK from here,” he reassures her. A ripple of laughter; the crowd are softening. Next question: “Where did you get your name from?” “It’s got nothing to do with storms,” Omari replies. This time the laughter is louder. After an hour, the hosts try and wrap up but Omari keeps batting them away, eager for more. Students ask what he thought of the “beef” between various MCs, why Omari refers to himself as “Stiff Chocolate” (answer: “My mum’s here, man!”), and one student has the nerve to drop one of his own freestyles. After the talk, Omari is swarmed by students vying for a photo. It’s difficult reconciling Oxford students nodding to a Stormzy track with the image of the grime scene 15 years ago. In 2000, you couldn’t even hear grime on commercial radio. For the first generation of the genre’s artists, pirate radios and underground raves across London were the only vehicles for their music. Artists would assemble makeshift radio

stations at the top of derelict flats or in disused clubs, with decks stacked on milk crates. Kano, real name Kane Robinson and widely considered one of grime’s most lyrically gifted MCs, recalls having to always stay on the lookout for police. “They would storm in, take the decks and all your records and you’d never get them back,” he tells me. To the music industry, grime wasn’t serious; to the authorities, it facilitated a violent gang culture. Jammer (Jahmek Power) and D Double E (Darren Dixon) are two of grime’s oldest MCs. They’re only in their thirties, indicative of how young the genre is. They remember a time that Omari never experienced. “Grime has had its dark times. Nowadays we may as well be drinking champagne,” laughs D Double E. We’re in a recording studio thick with smoke, and D Double has a barber’s smock neatly tucked around his neck. Just before our interview was meant to start he informed me that he was getting a haircut. I’m used to this now – these grime artists make their own rules. With his hair trimmed, D Double drives me to the parents’ house of fellow MC and friend, Jammer. I’m here to see “the dungeon” – a tiny basement used for rap battles called “clashes”. For the past ten years, these clashes have been recorded on DVDs called Lord Of The Mics. “This is grime’s most symbolic place,” D Double tells me. The basement walls are lined with almost two decades’ worth of MCs’ signatures and D Double sits, without looking, directly under his own name. “I remember raves full of gunshots and people getting stabbed. I would turn up to perform, needing that money, only to find the police had shut the rave down,” he says. Jammer too, remembers violence. “Due to postcode wars, people would fear that you might go to pirate radio and get stabbed on the way out. I knew that when I was going in to perform, I might come back out with a bullet in me. But without grime many of these people would be dead anyway. The scene grew from poverty.”

t was grime’s violence that prevented its commercial breakthrough. In the early noughties, grime was climbing the ranks. So Solid Crew won a Brit in 2002. A year later Dizzee Rascal released Boy In Da Corner, for which he won the Mercury Prize, aged just 18. Wiley and Kano followed suit with seminal albums that would shape Omari’s grime education, and Jammer released the first volume of Lord Of The Mics. It seemed like grime could only get bigger. In 2004, Lethal Bizzle released “Pow! (Forward)” – known to most MCs as the anthem of grime. It went straight to No11 in the charts. “Pow!” is often hailed as the greatest grime song of all time, largely because of what it did for the scene and for the voices


GRIME it represented. “It made the industry take us seriously,” explains Lethal Bizzle, AKA Maxwell Ansah, his muscular frame sprawled on a sofa in Shoreditch House. Unlike some of his fellow MCs, Lethal Bizzle is patient with press and the afternoon is refreshingly smooth: no lateness, no cannabis, just a Tarzan smoothie with cacao nibs. “It made them realise grime could work on its own, without being distorted into something commercial.” Yet “Pow!”’s release in 2004 was overshadowed by a tragic event several months earlier when a shooting at one of So Solid Crew’s shows resulted in a man’s death, almost leading to the collapse of the entire grime scene. “It hindered us for years. I remember seeing it plastered over the front page of the Sun. It was like they managed to kill the grime scene with just one article,” says Lethal Bizzle. “Pow!”’s violent lyrics (“Get a kick on the floor like blam/ Drag your face across the kerb like blam”) and the energy they fuelled among crowds were feared by authorities to incite further trouble in the raves – eventually leading in 2008 to the controversial “Form 696”, which demanded that venues state the type of music and target audience at every show. Many venues banned “Pow!” from being played or performed. “When you see a crowd of white kids going mad to a song its called moshing. With a crowd of black kids it’s called a riot,” states Lethal Bizzle. Although a blow, Lethal Bizzle realised it was proof of how powerful grime could be. It encouraged him to write an open letter to David Cameron in 2006 in response to the politician’s attack on the “bad” influence of grime lyrics. “If you read my letter,” Lethal Bizzle tells me, sitting up straight on the sofa. “It’s like I predicted the 2011 riots. I told him that if he continued to alienate young, disadvantaged people they would fight back, and they did.” It was perhaps Cameron’s attack on the grime scene that saw it retreat back underground and some of its key players left the scene to make music that would pay the bills. hat’s my f***ing PlayStation password?” Omari shouts, jabbing the controls – so absorbed by his screen he ignores his girlfriend waving goodbye. Grime’s new lease of life was sparked in 2014 by Skepta and his brother Jme’s hit song “That’s Not Me” and Meridian Dan’s “German Whip”, before Stormzy strolled in, giving the genre a giant push into the limelight with his youth and energy. Either the young musician came at the right time or he’s the reason why grime’s gone global. It’s a beautiful sunny day outside yet we’re sitting in the dark in the rapper’s new west London apartment. Omari just returned from touring and is focused on finishing his debut


album, out this month. “It’s been a very messy journey so far,” he explains, a little jet-lagged and a little stoned. “I’ve had to balance touring with living and growing up. I want that journey embodied in my album. I want to show every bit of my character. You’ll hear my darkest thoughts and deepest secrets. I’ll be vulnerable. I’ll be saying, ‘This is me, Mike.’” Omari reverts back to the far more important matter of cracking his console’s security code. “Shit. I never used my real date of birth because of the feds.” Amusingly a friend offers to call PlayStation customer service. A few minutes later, his phone rings. “Andy my G!” Omari’s voice booms across the empty room full of cardboard boxes and half-drunk bottles of cognac. “Am I interrupting?” I hear Andy ask. “Nah, man,” replies Omari. “I’m just trying to get into my PlayStation account.” For a quarter of an hour I listen as the young MC goes on to discuss the enriching benefits of coconut water. Omari has an infuriatingly short attention span. He refers to himself as “just a big kid”, The wicked skengman: Stormzy with local children outside his old school in South Norwood, London

‘The future of grime is bright. There will be a grime No1’ Stormzy

yet he’s also had to grow up ridiculously fast. If you stream his music (on Apple Music or Spotify), these two sides of his character are clear. He raps seriously about domestic abuse in “Storm Trooper”, sweetly about love in “All That Matters”, references politics in “Hear Dis” and raps with savage, powerful energy about his talent and success in “Standard” and “Scary”. When he applies himself, Omari’s work ethic is furiously diligent – he can spend up to three days straight locked in the studio and is meticulous with his live sets and promotional videos. “In my videos, if my friends don’t take it seriously I tell them to go home,” he states. “Because if they don’t take it seriously, then my video will be shit, everyone will think I’m shit, they won’t buy my music and I won’t be able to build a house for my mum in Ghana. That’s how deep it is for me.” I ask him what we can expect from the new album. He tells me about a collaboration with a 13-year-old school boy, Deno Driz. Omari saw a video of Driz singing online and asked around on Twitter to find out who he was. A few days later, they were in the studio together. “I don’t understand why people got so hyped about it. He’s a sick singer, so obviously I wanted him on my album.” Unlike his predecessors, Omari is smart enough to know that he can’t make it alone. Whether Kanye West or a young singer he discovers on You Tube, survival for Omari and the new grime scene is all about choosing allies. He chose his manager by thinking about who his smartest childhood friend had been and picked his 19-year-old DJ after the rapper witnessed a particularly storming set. Impulse has taken Omari a long way. “I’m a completely fearless musician,” he tells me, eventually giving my questions some attention. “My core is grime,” he states defiantly. “But I make all kinds of music. Take Picasso. He could paint whatever way he liked. He could do a little ting with a felt tip if he wanted to – it’s still going to be a bad boy Picasso at the end.” So what does The Future Of Grime think about the future of grime? Is this a renaissance or just another false dawn? Omari walks out to the balcony, strikes his lighter and inhales deeply. “The future’s bright. There will be a grime No1. If it’s not me, it will be those that come after me. What’s the point otherwise? If they’re not better than me they haven’t learnt anything.” He looks down on the traffic below. A siren sounds and he exhales smoke out into the city.


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Death will only continue Redstone’s legal and emotional battles


Michael Wolff


André Carrilho

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The death of Sumner Redstone will be a mirror of his life: controversial, bizarre and of seismic importance to the media. As the 93-year-old’s children, lovers and executives vie for his legacy (and a $40 billion fortune), GQ examines the chaos defining the decline of the ‘immortal’ mogul

Grabbing hands: Sumner Redstone’s control of Viacom and CBS rests on his perceived competence to make key decisions

n the Twenties, Michael Rothstein was a theatre and nightclub owner in Boston who, struggling in a street-level, toughguy industry, became an even-tougher son-of-bitch himself. When his son, Sumner, who in an age of new wealth went to Harvard and Harvard Law School, assumed the family business and changed the family name to Redstone, he was already as much of a difficult, bullying, pitiless businessman, husband and father as his own father had ever been. By most accounts, he only became more so during his years building the family theatre company, National Amusements, into one of the world’s largest owners of media companies, including CBS, Viacom and Paramount Pictures, with an estimated worth of $40 billion. At 93 and, according to many court filings, a physical wreck in the dwindling days of his life, he remains no less a shit. Having sued, abused, fired and humiliated almost everybody, he, in his last days of limited awareness – or, according to some, total obliviousness – has, if anything, ramped up the turmoil, betrayal and operatic conflicts that have been his constant companions. And now it seems likely that death will only continue, or even exacerbate, the perpetual Redstone legal, strategic and emotional battles. This kind of Herculean, irascible son-of-abitchness and need to dominate is of course not limited to the media industry, but media, for better or worse, is one of its most fertile environments. This is no doubt because media and ego (the “me” in media) are so closely related. But it is also because of a corporate anomaly in the media business. In an ownership structure that for most public companies would seem irregular and dubious and that would probably not pass muster on most stock exchanges, various media companies have been allowed to have two classes of stock, voting and non-voting. In this, most of the ownership of a media company may have little or no say in its future. Sumner Redstone’s family holding company, National Amusements, of which he owns 80 per cent, owns less than 20 per cent of Viacom and CBS, but owns 100 per cent of its voting shares (actually it owns 80 per cent but an 80 per cent majority dictates the will of 100 per cent). Similarly, Rupert Murdoch actually owns only a small portion of News Corp and of 21st Century Fox, but controls the class of stock that casts all the votes. This dual-class system was a practice that first gained respectability in the US when it was employed by the New York Times in the Sixties as a structure to protect the paper’s editorial freedom from the pressures of Wall Street in a public offering. But then somehow this notion of editorial freedom was extended into what might be called mogul freedom. That is, there were figures so unique and


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edstone, famous for having hung from a window ledge in the Seventies while his hotel room (and his hand) burned, has long said he would never die. And indeed he seems, after a bitter divorce from a wife of 52 years, and then another from a wife of seven years, to have entered an existential realm of unrestrained life. This now includes the corporate PR nightmare of a top executive’s emails and voicemails detailing his sex life, his relationships with two girlfriends (who have elicited hundreds of millions of dollars from him) and a succession of legal actions that have made everything public. This particularly unrestrained phase of his life is, it might seem, not so much a coda or instance of mental impairment but just a further stage of a temperament enabled by his two tiers of stock. As such, he has rebelled at any interference with his personal desires or any efforts to moderate them.

This has included his family. Of his two children, his son, Brent, 65, has been irremediably estranged from his father for nearly 20 years and sued for, and settled for, his piece of the estate. The other, Shari, his 62-year-old daughter, has been in and out of her father’s favour, variously anointed by him and fired by him. One document that has become public specifically barred both of Redstone’s children from attending his funeral. Having also settled some years ago for her part of the estate – a settlement that included a place on the trust that will administer the Redstone estate – Shari now runs a venture capital firm and is the family member most actively trying to protect her father’s financial legacy, which goes to his five grandchildren (that is, her and her brother’s children). This drama extends to his executives. The curious thing about Redstone is that he never much managed his companies. He was a dealmaker and a stock-price watcher who, unlike Murdoch, had little actual interest in the media business. (Murdoch once did an imitation for me of Redstone walking into walls.) He left that in the hands of an eager court and set of courtiers, men who had two imperatives, to make his stock rise and to humour him (that is, to anticipate what he wanted and when he wanted it). The difficulty of doing both has meant that the turmoil in his office matched the turmoil in his home. And yet, perhaps to his credit, if he had to be humoured like an indulged monarch, he would also need financial return, hence, usually, he fired the mere sycophants and replaced them with sycophants who could make him money too. (Of course, sometimes he fired people who could make him money, but who weren’t sycophantic enough.) That is until the music stopped. That’s the sudden silence, followed by vast commotion,


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Power players: Redstone, Bruce Willis, Dwayne Johnson and Brad Grey, 13 March 2013

Like George III, nobody knows how to take power from him

of being in control when you can’t exercise control. Powerless and yet still powerful. In effect, you become merely the idea of control, wrestled over by everyone else. Or at least by the people close enough to you to say that, although you are mute and immobile and to all appearances out of it, they know what you want. Those people in such proximity have variously included Redstone’s two caretakers, former girlfriends Sydney Holland and Manuela Herzer, his daughter, Shari, and his long-time friend, lawyer, hatchet man, executive, and, Redstone often said, son he would have preferred to have, Philippe Dauman, the CEO of Viacom. The past two years have been in effect a war among his lovers, his daughter and his closest business associate to each speak in Redstone’s name, often against each other. His slide into obliviousness together with his suddenly uninhibited sexual enthusiasms (threesomes without, apparently, strict gender requirements) left the girlfriends in charge. That is, he was yet expressive enough and vituperative enough for them to at least somewhat credibly speak in his name and to mostly ban everybody else from seeing him. What’s more, they both scooped up a reported $70 million (£48m), with the promise of neardoubling that on his death. But then, little more than a year ago, Redstone learned that Holland was two-timing him and, with an additional pay-out, ousted her from his home, leaving Herzer in charge. Herzer, mostly, did not threaten Philippe Dauman’s position, and, in fact, kept his potential rival Shari Redstone – long resentful over Dauman’s access to her father and rightly concerned over the lagging fortunes of Viacom – at bay. But as Redstone sank further into oblivion it became increasingly clear that Herzer, acting in Redstone’s name, could wreak real havoc for the careful but always tenuous plan of how control of the Redstone fortune and assets would pass upon his death. In this, a seven-person trust was created, a finely drawn acknowledgement of which way Redstone leaned between Dauman, his loyalist, and his daughter, who he often saw as disloyal. Dauman chaired the trust, with four seats on his side; Shari sat with her son, Tyler Korff, on the trust, and with likely one more vote – a four to three arrangement that could yet be undone or recalibrated by Redstone at any moment. Hence, the danger of Herzer’s ability to use her access to Redstone and influence over him, ever-increasing as his facilities deteriorated, led Dauman and Shari Redstone to join forces and oust Herzer earlier this year. That is, they maintained that Redstone had communicated his desires to live apart from her and to cancel all the agreements he had made with her.

Photograph Getty Images

indomitable – such as Redstone and Murdoch and, for a while, Ted Turner – that they were given a certain sort of inalienable primacy, a kind of “let them be them”. Most recently, this has become a structure adopted by tech companies. Hence, Mark Zuckerberg owns a minority of Facebook but, through a special class of stock, maintains absolute control over the place and will, theoretically, for evermore. Now, there have always been egomaniac capitalist titans, building and controlling companies that were dominant and often bullying in their fields. But traditionally those bullies were the majority owners. It was their money, for better or worse. They controlled what they could afford to own. But the effect of the dual-class structure is that the last generation of moguls has been allowed to keep buying companies and amassing assets with other people’s money and yet still control like kings. Indeed, Murdoch’s disproportionate power and influence in Britain is not the result of his media power but of his disproportionate and inequitable voting advantage at the public companies that “employee” him. This is a kind of pure power which, with little logic in how it was acquired, offers little logic for how it is inherited or dispersed or shared or ultimately ended. It is nearly 18th century in its complications and in the transparently cockamamie pretences that have to be militantly maintained to support it – and, as well, in its potential for plot turns and great drama, tragic or farcical. Indeed, as with the madness of King George III, nobody knows what to do with the raging, mostly non compos mentis 93-year-old man in the home hospital bed in Beverly Hills – or how to take power from him.

MICHAEL WOLFF Hence, security guards were called and Herzer was effectively put on the street. In such cat-and-mouse games, victory often goes to whoever acts first – that is, to who is audacious and shameless enough to act first. Of course, she sued. Not unreasonably, her position was that Redstone could not have made the decision abrogating the provisions and bequests he had made for her, nor could he eject her from the home they shared, because he was, obviously, gaga. On this point much depended. In fact, Dauman and Shari Redstone on their part might have argued just as Herzer was arguing, that Redstone could not have made any deals precisely because he had long been out of it. But, in fact, almost everything related to Dauman or Shari ultimately taking control rested on Redstone’s continued ability to exercise, or appear to exercise, the control he possessed. After all, he was still chairman of Viacom and CBS, both public companies. This was the catch: the two-tier stock structure, with Redstone controlling the voting shares and, through that control, sitting as the ultimate executive of both companies, was a representation to shareholders that Redstone was in fact in control. If he wasn’t personally in control, if he was a mere puppet for other people acting in his stead, that would be misleading shareholders – and quite illegal. It would invite shareholder suits or even the possibility that the two-tier structure could be invalidated and control lost. Dauman and Shari had to oppose Herzer’s claim that Redstone was incompetent. Accordingly, to prove the point, Herzer’s suit contained vivid details of the most extreme and humiliating incompetence. And, indeed, faced with a court-ordered medical exam, Redstone, theoretically by his own decision and with a signature wildly careening down the page, resigned in February as chairman of CBS and Viacom. Now, by the terms of prior agreements with her father – including the settlement that gave her 20 per cent of the family holding company, National Amusements (which in 2014 her father had offered to back for $1bn) – if, for any reason, her father no longer wanted or was able to serve as chairman of the two companies, that gave Shari the right to replace him. But joining management might have put her in conflict with her own interests regarding the future of these companies, hence, she declined at CBS, where, instead, as a board member she voted to appoint Leslie Moonves, the CEO, as chairman. Moonves is one of the most vaunted executives in the entertainment business, able both to humour Redstone and build CBS profits. At Viacom, where she also declined the chairman’s job, the board voted to elevate

His girlfriend argued Redstone could not make decisions, since he was gaga

Dauman to chairman – with one vote against, Shari’s. Even as they were aligned in the battle against Herzer, Shari was announcing that they were in ultimate conflict over the future of Viacom and, more to the point, over who controlled the man who had control. A glimpse at the larger picture. The issue is not just who controls the Redstone companies but what happens to them. Their fate could potentially alter the balance of power in the media industry. Shari Redstone, acting in the interests of her children, niece and nephew, might reasonably want to diversify out of an overwhelmingly media-focused portfolio, selling Viacom or CBS or both. That, many observers believe, will set off a massive round of consolidation in the media business. Dauman, on his part, were he to maintain control of the trust after Redstone’s death – giving him control through the Redstone voting shares of CBS as well as Viacom – would, arguably next to Murdoch, be the most powerful man in the media industry. Moonves, on his part, might, if Shari Redstone gains ultimate control, take over Viacom and begin his own acquisition march (Time Warner is said to be a favoured Moonves target). Meanwhile, Herzer’s lawsuit arrived in court in early May and, to some extent, Sumner Redstone rose to the occasion. That is, in an expletive-filled, mostly incoherent video deposition in which he was unable to state his original name (Rothstein), he yet appeared to reject Herzer as his caregiver and express, however monosyllabically, his preference for his daughter. On this basis, Herzer’s suit was dismissed and Redstone’s cancellation of bequests to her allowed to stand. Redstone, in other words, was not found incompetent. That said, on the other hand, he could hardly be pronounced in full possession of his faculties either. Control of one of the world’s biggest media companies clearly rested in a nether world beyond normal sense and sensibility. Shortly after the ruling, the Viacom board, controlled by Dauman, decided to stop paying Redstone his multimillion-dollar salary. Days later, Redstone, by written notice, dismissed Dauman and one of Dauman’s chief

allies from the trust, effectively giving Shari Redstone control of all the trust and, hence, of everything on Redstone’s death or in the event he might be deemed incompetent. Curiously, Dauman, were he faster on the draw and shameless to a greater extent than he turned out to be, might have sent a similar notice in Redstone’s name to Shari. But too late. Dauman was forced to reverse the position he had taken in the Herzer suit and insist that Redstone was unable to make these decisions for himself and that he had obviously been manipulated by his daughter.


y the time you read this, Shari Redstone might have figured out how to fire Dauman before his case to have her reconstitution of the trust undone proceeds. But this is hardly straightforward. She needs the Viacom board to oust Dauman but that board, once loyal to her father, is now loyal to her father’s greatest loyalist, Dauman. For this, humpty dumpty has to be credibly enough put back together again to call a special shareholders meeting and, before a Massachusetts court, demonstrate his ability to fire the sitting directors and appoint new ones. Curiously, there is a certain sort of logical way this may end. Unlike in the 18th century, modern power has a certain financial price. And it may be that Shari Redstone’s manoeuvres are just an effort to get it. In this, CBS or Viacom, or both, might merely pay a premium for National Amusements’ controlling tier of stock. Many believe CBS, which has been stockpiling cash, is already on its way to doing this. Dauman, seemingly more sanguine about his ultimate control, has not appeared to be so strategic. That may be why he, in early spring, in an apparent sudden effort to raise cash, put Paramount on the block, against, according to Shari Redstone, her father’s wishes – if he has wishes. Or, those theoretical wishes might just be another element of the negotiation to force Dauman to pay the maximum price to be rid of those “wishes”. And, indeed, this would be the logical, if expensive, way to retire the anomalous and inequitable Redstone legacy of control and bring a bit more sensible governance to the corporate world. But then again, absolute power creates an absolute power vacuum, in which the quick and the ruthless, and often the unexpected, rather than the logical, generally prevail.


For these related stories, visit

What Wendi Knows (Michael Wolff, July 2016) Donald Trump. Really? (Michael Wolff, June 2016) The Guardian’s Loss Leader (Michael Wolff, May 2016) AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 143

Jacket by Louis Vuitton, £1,380. Sunglasses by Burberry, £117. At Opposite: Espadrilles by Gucci, £300. At Bracelet by Tateossian, £210. 144 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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Matthew Shave STYLING BY

Mark McMahon

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T-shirt by Alexander McQueen, £255. Sunglasses by Oliver Peoples, £216. At Harrods.

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Blazer by Louis Vuitton, £1,500. Jumper by Acne Studios, £240. At Harvey Nichols. Shorts by Dolce & Gabbana, £300. Bag by Louis Vuitton, £1,520.

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Jacket by Orlebar Brown, £245. Top by Maison Margiela, £325. At Harrods. Swimming shorts by Thorsun, £190. At

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Shirt by Missoni, £240. At matchesfashion. com. Cap by Paul Smith, £55. Grooming Davide Barbieri using Bumble And Bumble and Mac Photography assistants Chantal King, Kate Mountford and Jesse Toksvig-Stewart Styling assistant Rachel Travers Grooming assistant Dani Metcalfe Model Leebo Freeman at Supa

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From adventure destinations to luxury locations, get active in the wild or kick back in style with your GQ tour guides G Q B OA R D I N G PASS


07072016 TRVLGQ 1

Shore leave: Pangkor Laut Resort plays host to the annual Chapman’s Challenge race, 14 May 2016 150 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016



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Escape the Malay jungle Charlie Burton endures hell and high water in an island race that replicates the perils of the Pacific Theatre he submarine was late. It was the evening of 13 May 1945 and Colonel Freddy Spencer Chapman was pacing up and down the deserted bay of Pangkor Laut, a small island off the west coast of Japaneseoccupied Malaya, anxiously scanning the water for HMS Statesman, the craft sent to his rescue. It was 40 minutes overdue and the light was fading fast. The British special forces officer had entered Malaya in 1941 with two others to wage a guerrilla campaign that proved so effective in its destruction of railway lines, vehicles and troops (“More than a whole division of the British Army could have achieved,” Earl Mountbatten would later comment) that the Japanese believed they were under attack by a group of 200. Yet supplies had run dry in 1942 and Chapman was unable to escape. Missing, presumed dead, he linked up with Chinese communist guerillas and spent three years surviving in the mainland jungle. It was extraordinarily tough: long, hot treks through unforgiving terrain; skirmishes with the Japanese; and sickness from infected leech bites, pneumonia and cycles of malaria that at one point left

him unconscious for 17 days. Yet during his most recent bout of illness there had been a breakthrough. His companions had managed to power a radio and get word to allies in Sri Lanka of Chapman’s existence. Plans were made for an extraction. Now, standing on this half-mile stretch of silver sand, Chapman was on the brink of salvation. Suddenly a dark mass surfaced in the centre of the bay. A voice came over the waves: “Ahoy!” He made his way to the water’s edge. “How are your feet?” shouted a distant submariner. It was the arranged password. Chapman gave the secret reply: “We are thirsty.” He swam out to the sub and clambered up its barnacled sides. He was going home. Seventy-one years on, Malaya is now Malaysia, and the island of Pangkor Laut is privately owned by the hotel group YTL, which has built a magnificent resort along its eastern side. Many of the wooden structures are on stilts above the waves or enmeshed sympathetically with the natural features of the shore, meaning that despite the seven restaurants, extensive spa and multiple swimming pools, the island as a whole retains an undeveloped quality. The jungle is as it has been for millions of years and, if you walk across to its far side, you can find Emerald Bay, the site of Chapman’s rescue. This year the hotel debuted an endurance race that will take place annually on the anniversary of his escape: The Chapman’s Challenge. Emulating the final stages of Chapman’s story, it requires competitors to undertake a run – 3.8km on roads then 2.4km through the jungle



Atmospheric pressure: GQ’s Charlie Burton endures the heavy humidity during a 2.4km stint of the Chapman challenge

Safe retreat: The island of Pangkor Laut is owned by the hotel that nestles discreetly behind its tree line

V ITA L S TATI S TI C S > Best time to visit The next race is on 13 May 2017 > Distance travelled 6,443 miles > Duration of stay Seven nights

– emerging at Emerald Bay for a 1km open water swim. It’s sprint distance but demanding. Most of the run is uphill – in places the gradient is almost 50 per cent – the temperature is in the midthirties and the humidity is so high that sweat barely evaporates. Mercifully, the route is checked for wild boars and snakes (the rare but present danger: king cobras) before the event begins. I travelled to Pangkor Laut to take part in the inaugural event, which took on a significance greater than the sum of its parts. A day after signing up, I learned that Colonel Chapman was the former commanding officer and friend of my grandfather, Major Philip Smith. As part of the Special Operations Executive, a clandestine force set up by Winston Churchill to disrupt the Axis war machine from behind enemy lines, my grandfather had also ended up serving in the Far East, in nearby Burma, running secret radio communications. I grew up with my grandfather’s war stories – tales of coded messages, Japanese booby traps and, for him too, malaria – but they were disparate and always accentuated the positive. When he died, in 2013, I realised that for all he told me I actually had a very partial picture of his war and, for that matter, a very partial picture of him. It was too late, obviously: whatever AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 151


questions I had could now never really be answered. Yet the strange coincidence of taking part in this race in the region where he fought, and – I later learned – doing so alongside the grandchildren of his old friend Chapman, had become an opportunity, in some sense, to reconnect. And so it is that on a clear Malaysian morning I join a group of 104 competitors, many of whom are intimidatingly tight-bodied pros, on the Pangkor Laut jetty for the first Chapman’s Challenge. We set off for the road portion, which quickly spreads the pack with its seemingly endless climbs (the fact that the War effort: Chapman’s memoir The Jungle Is Neutral recounts his Malaysian ordeal

steepest, nicknamed “steroid hill”, has a medic stationed at the peak is, for me, a source of terror more than comfort), but nothing would compare to the difficulty of the trail run. The sounds of the jungle trick you into thinking that someone is always just a few metres behind so you sprint in perpetual panic, forever dodging roots and rocks, and the air is so close that the skin becomes thickly layered with sweat. My kit by now is totally saturated; my shorts so heavy, in fact, that, somewhat comically, they start to fall down. On the final hill – the toughest of the event – exhaustion and humidity conspire to make me almost pass out just shy of the summit. I pause for 30 seconds to get my head back and manage the descent to the beach. The swim, however, which I had been dreading as I had never tried open water, turns out to be a cinch. I had been worrying about riptides, jellyfish and, frankly, drowning, but – despite some sea lice bites – the straits are cool, welcoming and the current helps on the return leg. Forty-eight people complete the race; I finish 15th with a time of 1h 21min 11sec.


Water bottle by Ultimate Direction, £30.95. At Runner Inn.

Wet work (from left): Charlie Burton with Colonel Chapman’s grandson, Stephen

Trainers by Asics, £105.



For those looking for extreme alpine challenges, Ski Verbier Exclusive director and co-founder Tom Avery is the man to call for advice and support. Not only has he climbed in almost all of the world’s Greater Ranges he is one of only nine people in history to have completed the polar trilogy – treks to north and south poles and a crossing of Greenland. His expeditions have involved dog sledging, manhauling, ski mountaineering, ice climbing and snow kiting, so Tom is expertly placed to provide training, logistic or fundraising advice to launch a major snowy expedition. And he’s in no doubt where to base yourself: “Verbier’s spectacular location, surrounded by some of the largest peaks in the Alps, is the perfect training ground, with thousands of hectares of the best back-country wilderness on our doorstep,” says Avery.;

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Photographs Nicholas Kay

Victory conditions: The winner of the Chapman Challenge is invited to stay at Pangkor Laut’s private estates

As you might imagine for a fivestar resort, the race has some five-star touches: the fastest competitor (who Essential kit for the clocks in at a remarkable 47min 18sec) Chapman’s Challenge... wins a stay at Pangkor Laut’s private estates in the north of the island and the top five receive trophies 3-D-printed in their likeness. The guest of honour today is Goggles by Aqua Chapman’s son, Chris. That evening, Sphere, £29.99. before the celebratory dinner on the sands where Chapman himself had waited for his submarine 71 years before, we talk about the past. I hoped to learn something about my grandfather by coming here; I discovered that he must have been more resilient than I imagined to survive this Watch by Garmin, £390. kind of environment. Chris, too, has had that realisation. “I had no concept of what the jungle was like, but actually if you attempted to leave any of the paths here and follow the compass route, you’d understand...” There’s another thing we have in common, as we reflect on the experiences of my grandfather and his father. As Chris puts it, “I wish Singlet by I had spent more time with him.” New Balance, £25. Seven nights at Pangkor Laut Resort start from £1,169 per person, including return flights from London Heathrow with Malaysia Airlines and transfers. Book through Western & Oriental (020 3733 2509. The next Chapman’s Challenge takes place on 13 May 2017.

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A spinner is a spinner, right? Wrong. Now a new wave of ‘smart luggage’ is upgrading the travel experience EDITED BY

Charlie Burton & Stuart McGurk

2 1




Matthew Beedle




1. Barracuda

2. Bluesmart

3. Trunkster

Sure, smart cases do solve a few modern problems, but what about a rather older one: how to stash the thing away once you’re in the hotel room? That’s Barracuda’s USP. It has all the tech you would expect (scales, GPS tracking, internal phone charger, laptop tray) but also collapses to a third of its size once folded up. £240. Win: An ergonomic rotating handle lets you wheel in comfort Fail: The laptop tray is flimsy

Is there anything this case can’t do? Location tracking, electronic locking, integrated scales... all operated via an app. Our favourite feature is the battery, which can charge a phone six times, and the two USB ports. If only it wasn’t quite so snug on the inside. £275. Win: It’s packed with tech, but still has an eye on design Fail: We had intermittent difficulties pairing our phone with the case

Trunkster claims that the roll-top front represents “the first major update to luggage design since wheels” – and it does have major advantages. Speed of access is improved and it offers greater protection from theft. It’s not without tech creds either: an internal scale reads out to a display on the handle and there’s a location tracker. £300. Win: Innovative sliding door Fail: Exterior scratches easily


4. Electronic Tag by Rimowa Online check-in only saves so much time – hold luggage still needs a label on it. Unless, that is, you have a Rimowa “Electronic Tag” case (the option is available on most models). The e-ink screen talks to the airline’s baggage computers to display the handling information. Topas Multiwheel, £695. Win: The screen is Gorilla Glass Fail: Only works on Lufthansa flights, but more are planned AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 153


Trek to the Lost City Stuart McGurk braves an extreme hike through dense Colombian rainforest to discover the mysteries of an ancient civilisation at Ciudad Perdida Into the wild: The four-day hike covers a gruelling 46km before reaching the Lost City





> Best time to visit January to April > Duration of hike Five nights > Distanced travelled 4,924 miles

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the Colombian government has seen the numbers fall dramatically: to less than a third of that total by 2005 and, by 2014, to fewer than 300. The upshot being vast swathes of Colombia’s natural beauty was once again accessible to hikers. Our trek, as we set out on the first day, was to Colombia’s Ciudad Perdida (Spanish for “Lost City”), a remarkable mountaintop series of interlocking stone plazas in the northern Sierra Nevada region, which is said to date back to 800 AD but was only rediscovered in the early Seventies. There were 14 of us in our group – an amiable gaggle of twenty- and thirty-something Europeans who mostly seemed to be either escaping something (quit jobs, travelling around South America for a year) or putting something off (the Essex jack-the-lad who was delaying dentist school; his

ARMY AT THE TOP One incongruous sight at the Lost City was the small army base stationed there – a handful of recruits, barely out of their teens, posing for selfies with their semi-automatic rifles. This is due to the last major kidnapping event on the Lost City trail: in 2003, when adventurous trekkers were allowed to camp there, some found themselves taken hostage by the National Liberation Army and demanded that the Colombian government investigate human rights abuses in exchange for their hostages. They released the last of them three months later.

Photographs Alamy; Getty Images; DJ Struntz

staple food of Colombia is A called arepa. It’s a squat pancake, served with anything, and boasts no flavour, apart from your own saliva. It has the texture of soil, the density of a recently collapsed star and I was about to have my fourth for breakfast. I was in the rainforest, preparing to embark on another day of arduous trekking. And it was taking place in Colombia. Hiking and potential kidnap: I figured you need to bulk up for both. And yet, as I set out, the arepa settling in my stomach like a snooker ball in a sock, it was with more paranoid fear than realistic expectation of appearing saucer-eyed on the news. This was progress. Colombia, it seems, doesn’t do that any more. The sea change began with former Colombian president Alvaro Uribe, who decided to do something about a rep that had pegged Colombia as the kidnap capital of the world. In 2000, 3,572 people were kidnapped, almost ten a day. Since then, a dramatic crackdown on the rebel groups, notably Farc, camped out in rainforest areas that were previously untouched by

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friend who walked the entire trail in a Hooters T-shirt, delaying dress sense). Everyone had that chirpy masochism that associates extreme hardship with blissful happiness. It was after about an hour when I realised my first mistake. There are three flavours of trek to the Lost City: the four-day, five-day, and six-day. I opted for the four-day, as I’m generally pro-comfort and anti-death. I only later discovered it’s exactly the same route. The four-day version is the extreme version; you just have to do it faster. Here’s what I imagined: a gentle, maybe slightly undulating path through the jungle, where very occasionally I need to step over a stream or kick a twig out of the way. What I got was a never-ending hell path that was either so steep you were virtually on all fours scrabbling up it like a rabid dog or not so much walking down the other side as falling with gaps. Up, down. Up, down. The result was you don’t so much take in your beautiful surroundings as curse them. Oh look, a beautiful ravine (I’ll fall down that and kill myself), a stunning rope bridge over rapids (I’ll be swept away to my death), an imperious mountain jutting into the sky (How can there be still more up?). In fact, for most of the first day, I just concentrated on where my next footstep was going to go. By the time we got to the first camp, a series of rickety lean-tos by the river, we’d eaten by 5pm and were in bed (a series of wooden bunks covered by mosquito nets) by 7pm. I fell asleep instantly. And yet, as we set out soon after sunrise on the second day, a funny thing happened. You begin to embrace the pain. Or rather, you stop struggling against it. You stop thinking of each mountain, or ridge, or death-trap rock outcrop “path” high above a ravine as a task, or challenge, or a death certificate.





1x 1x 1x

The trek is hard going, so pack like the police are knocking on the door. One jumper, four T-shirts, two pairs of shorts, sunscreen and insect repellent, small flashlight. Done.

You just keep putting one foot in front it was abandoned. And if it’s hard to of another in a kind of semi-broken get a full sense of what the city, made mindlessness. In a weird way, you start up of 169 terraces and said to once to enjoy it and the torrential downhold up to 8,000 people, was exactly pours help you cool off. like (the stone plazas, paths and house Free will, what a drag – who needs foundations remain, yet the dwellings it? Just keep walking. The entire trek themselves are long gone) you do get is 46km – on the second day you do a real sense of wonder of what it must almost 20km of it. We reached the have been like to once discover. On the entrance to the Lost City early on the highest levels, where tourists aren’t third day. I say entrance: I mean stairallowed, some local tribespeople and case. Twelve hundred hulking stone shamans live still, collecting their water steps from the river, each up to a foot from the river’s source, no doubt baffled high. No wonder the city became lost. at the foreigners below who trek for But the ascent is worth it. History four days to stay four hours. is a palimpsest – all past either All there was left was to go back overwritten by the present, the way we’d come. Down, or fenced off from it. Yet and then up again. TRAVEL here, bar a couple of The Lost City trek costs TIP signs, it’s virtually as £160 per person. Bring money. Each camp has a very small shop – the contents untouched as when brought there by overloaded mules on the same path you’ve taken. You can even buy beer – the sweetest beer you’ve ever tasted after a long day of trekking. Bless those buckle-legged beasts.

Man vs mountain: Areas of the rainforest were once dangerous to hike because of rebel occupation


DRUG TRADE The drop in kidnappings in Colombia coincided with the government’s renewed war on their notorious drugs trade, which dropped sharply as a result. The upshot: many people who made their money in the business moved to tourism. GQ’s own guide – a perma-happy, stout man called Wilson – once stopped our group to point to the remnants of a shack in the far distance. “I used to make cocaine there,” he said wistfully. That night, he explained to GQ how he had risen to the role of drug transporter. Once he was transporting 46kg of it, but was spooked by sounds, so stashed it in the jungle, only to later forget exactly where. “I was looking everywhere!” To his relief, he found it. What would have happened if he hadn’t? “Oh,” he said with a chuckle, “They would have killed me.”


For more than two decades professional waterman and big-wave surfer Mark Healey has been redefining ocean sports, from charging 60-foot waves to free diving with great white sharks. Healey Water Ops (HWO) offers clients an exciting and immersive opportunity to push their boundaries and explore the ocean in ways that have previously been inaccessible to the public. Here are his picks for the ultimate adventure. “Indonesia, Western Australia, Fiji and Hawaii are a few of my favourite locations around the globe. They all offer so much diversity – not only for ocean-going experiences, but are also very rich culturally and historically. The options are simply endless and these locations offer more than what’s found on Google.” For further information contact Elegant Resorts Reservations on 01244 897 505 or visit

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This side of paradise V ITA L S TATI S TI C S LE TOU E SS RO K MAURITIUS

Dylan Jones retreats to a real life treasure island for unrivalled R&R at Shangri-La’s resplendent outpost on the Indian Ocean here is a by-now almost legendary episode of Modern Family that takes place exclusively in Las Vegas, and which largely involves the attempts of Ed O’Neill’s character to get his family an upgrade to the Mandalay Bay’s “Excelsior Plus” level at the very top of the hotel. Having been promised some of the hotel’s best suites by the owner, on arrival O’Neill is dismayed to find that their accommodation isn’t quite as top-drawer as it could be. O’Neill’s status anxiety results in various convoluted script developments which obviously encouraged the show’s writers to turn the entire episode into something resembling a French farce – many of which involve a quintessentially oleaginous English butler played with great panache by Stephen Merchant. In the end, of course, O’Neill gets his wish and his brood is duly bumped to the higher floor, only to discover that – oh no, how could this be? – there is actually one more floor above the “Excelsior Plus” level, the “Excelsior Ultra” level. In the world of luxury travel we live in a time of rising bars and every five 156 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

> Best time to visit May to October > Time spent Seven nights > Distance travelled 6,057 miles

minutes, somewhere around the globe, that bar is being raised just a little bit higher. (In the time it’s taken you to read the first two paragraphs it’s no doubt been ratcheted up again, if only by a notch or two.) Today, we live in a world of hierarchies, where every experience has a potential exclusive, bespoke element, a world where every VIP room has a secret VVIP room contained within it, and maybe another inside that; a world of upgrades where there is always the possibility that someone else has got a better upgrade than you. And we wouldn’t want that, now would we? Who would? On a very basic level this applies to the kind of hotels that offer a special check-in experience, the kind that

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either involves checking in on a special floor, or, even better, checking in right there in your room, after you’ve been offered a glass of champagne and your clothes have been unpacked, pressed and hung. This is certainly the sort of thing you can expect at the Shangri-La on Mauritius, one of the best resorts on the island, and one that has recently experienced a sensational upgrade. Relaunched as Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort And Spa following a comprehensive and bewilderingly quick overhaul (the hotel was only closed for six months), this is a five-star hotel with seven-star service. The part of the hotel you want to stay in is the area on the left of the property that houses the three beach villas, all of which offer the type of hot and cold

running staff you won’t find anywhere else on Mauritius. Each villa has three enormous double bedrooms, each with its own palatial en-suite bathrooms, private pool, entertainment garden and eight-star view. Your own private chef will prepare all your meals for you, as many times a day as you wish, for as many people as you can find to dine with. This is luxury squared. As the service was so good and so consistent (inconsistency being one of the few ways luxury resorts can let themselves down), it made me almost long for mistakes, but there were none.

Photographs Markus Gortz; Nicophoto Ltd

King Creole: Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort And Spa recently underwent an upgrade; (inset) the beach villa’s stylish and state-of-the-art interior

As far as travel is concerned, at the luxury end of the market, these days the best experience is actually no experience at all. No check-in. No luggage handling. No waiting. No unnecessary prodding or disrobing. A smooth transition from airport to resort. I had flown into Mauritius from Hong Kong via Dubai and was whisked straight from the plane to a private jet terminal run by Yu. My passport and immigration forms were processed in 15 minutes, and from there I was driven straight to the hotel, through the vast swathes of sugar cane, to be greeted by a man with a firm handshake and a huge smile. It set the tone for a week of unrivalled indulgence, a week that looked effortless but was obviously anything but. One of the reasons I stopped holidaying in the Caribbean was because of the service, as the kind of service you get in Asia is beyond compare and inevitably spoils you. However, during my week at the Shangri-La on Mauritius I experienced some of the best service I’ve ever had in a hotel, anywhere in the world, let alone Asia. Where holidays are concerned, our aspirations are often inchoate and abstract: we don’t know what we want but we’ll know when we experience it. Here, I would say that the experience is fundamentally prescriptive – a beautiful, state-ofthe-art dream home, pointing out to sea, set apart from everything but your own fantasies. On one occasion I was persuaded to venture into the island’s interior – to visit the surprisingly lively market town of Flacq – but the rest of the time was spent at the resort, ambling into the main hotel to sample the various restaurants (including the spectacular Japanese Kushi), taking a boat over to the Shangri-La’s own private island, Ilot Mangenie, and watching people paddle boarding or playing with drones. But even these little excursions felt unnecessary, because the villa itself (ours was the farthest from the hotel, Bougainvillea) was an oasis of calm, a veritable haven and somewhere that, in all honesty, was difficult to leave. Two or three times a day I was encouraged to leave my daybed, but almost always found an excuse to stay and AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 157

You are whisked from the plane to your villa with the deference usually reserved for heads of state 158 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

chef there is no need to venture into one of the very fine five restaurants they have here. Honestly, this was so, so spoiling, and the kind of experience that it is difficult (and expensive) to replicate. One of the most important elements of a holiday at this level is your ability to get from one place to another, and the private airport on the island promises and delivers a seamless experience, meaning you are whisked from the plane to the lounge and then from the lounge to your villa with the kind of swiftness, decorum and deference that is usually reserved for heads of state. Or rock stars. And in fact the Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort And Spa is the perfect place for rock stars, or indeed any bold face name, as you can disappear into your beach villa and not have to re-emerge until the end of your stay. You could stay here, being fed and watered like a spoilt potentate, and not have to see any civilians at all. The staff are some of the best I’ve ever encountered, and while many hotels that aspire to this level of luxury employ a phalanx of Uriah Heep-style Eastern European valets, 24-hour cocktail barmen and smiling laundry bods who like nothing better

View from the top: The living quarters of Le Touessrok’s beach villa that looks out to the ocean; (inset) the villa’s luxury bathroom; (below) the resort’s main swimming pool

Photographs Matthew Beedle; Markus Gortz; Nicophoto Ltd

sink into the infinity pool, sipping a variety of nonalcoholic cocktails while listening to Beirut repeatedly on the iPad. On beach holidays like this I am a fundamentally lazy person and although the resort offers the kind of things that people might choose to do when they’re not busy relaxing – deep breath: kayaking, paddle boarding, wake boarding, sailing, snorkelling, windsurfing, water skiing, pedal boating, kite surfing, parasailing, game fishing, scuba diving and golf (on an 18-hole par 72 championship course designed by Bernhard Langer) – all I ever want to do is finesse my horizontal sensibility. At this kind of level all you are really trying to do is to put as much distance between you and the real world as possible, which is just as well, because we were so cossetted that my commune with the elements was exactly to my requirements. We stayed in one of the three-bedroom beach villas where you not only have exceptionally attentive staff, but as you have your own private

than offering you a turn-down service on the hour every hour, the staff here are here when you need them, and when you don’t – and they seem to anticipate this with unnerving accuracy – they’re gone without so much as a byyour-leave. Those are the type of hotels that treat their clientele as though they’re lucky to get into a nightclub, the sort of hotels that treat 30- and 40-somethings like they’re teenagers, forgetting the fact that by the time you get to the stage in your life when you can afford to get into fancy hotels, the last thing you want to do is be treated as though you still can’t. The Shangri-La, on the other hand, will treat you exactly like you want to be treated, namely someone who has managed to squeeze six or seven days out of their schedule in order to lie on your back, staring at the sky and occasionally looking up to check that your glass has been replenished. Having never been to Mauritius before, I was inevitably concerned that, as Modern Family’s Ed O’Neill did, I might discover that my lodgings, grand though they were, might not actually be the best at the resort. How was I to know that there wasn’t an even better resort just a five minute drive away? Well, having done my due diligence, I can not only guarantee that the Shangri-La’s Beach Villas are the best rooms in the hotel, they’re almost certainly the best on the entire island. They are ultra, in fact. Which, at this end of the market, is now all we ever want. Seven nights at Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort start from £1,638 per person. 00230 402 7400.

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GQ 1. TRTL pillow

2. Kindle Oasis

U-shaped pillows hold your head in a bad position. This is a healthier alternative, made of structured foam, and can be thrown in the washing machine. £19.95.

Kindle is still the king of the e-reading world – the 300ppi display emulates the printed page – and the new Oasis is the thinnest, lightest one yet. £269.99.


Aeroplanes are tech powerhouses, but for an optimum flight you still need to introduce some innovations of your own... EDITED BY

Charlie Burton

3. iPad Pro 9.7”

4. Airhook

5. MacBook

Our favourite thing about the original, larger iPad Pro was the keyboard cover. Now there’s a small version that offers the same. £499.

Clip it onto the seat in front of you and the Airhook provides a proper cup holder that will also secure your tablet computer upright as a screen. £17.

Apple’s latest wonder is the only choice for the itinerant businessman with serious computing needs. Increased battery will see you though long haul. £1,049.


6. Belkin MixIt five-way splitter What if your travelling companion wants to watch Game Of Thrones on your laptop too? Easy: plug in this headphone splitter. £8.99.












7. Hush The world’s first “smart” earplugs, these not only block out sound but play soothing audio designed to get you to sleep, from white noise to waterfalls. £100.

8. Knomo organiser

9. Bose Quiet Comfort 20

10. Astell & Kern AK Jr

You could spend the flight scrabbling around your luggage for whatever you require – or you could store everything neatly in this. £40.

Bose’s noise-cancelling in-ear headphones are even better at blocking out the plane’s whir than Bose’s dorkily big Quiet Comfort 25’s. £299.95.

High-res audio players used to look positively throwback in their chunkiness. This model is as slim as its price tag. £399. At Selfridges.

11. MyBumper

12. Neuroon

You’ll always need more juice when travelling. Step forward the MyBumper, the slimmest external battery on the market, which gives you an extra ten hours of life. £45.

A sleep mask that shines light into your eyes may seem counterintuitive but the Neuroon works with sensors that detect your brainwaves to improve sleep quality. £220.

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 159

Backpack by Bally, £1,250. 160 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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The light fantastic Accessorise the summer, from shades to shoes, with these new holiday classics PHOTOGRAPHS BY STYLING BY

Matthew Shave

Mark McMahon

Sunglasses by Saint Laurent, £235.

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Sunglasses by Linda Farrow Luxe, £513. At Harvey Nichols.

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Shoes by Prada, £395.

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Hat by Gucci, £175. At 164 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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Photography assistants Chantal King; Kate Mountford; Jesse Toksvig-Stewart Styling assistant Rachel Travers

Sunglasses by Paul Smith, ÂŁ165.

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 165


Welcome to the As central London’s wildfire property boom shows signs of burning out, developers revolution and the flight of young creatives to far-flung postcodes, E16’s Silvertown Quay points: A rendering of the £3.5 billion development in Silvertown, east London. By 2018, it will have 3,000 new homes and a vibrant commercial district

Silvertown will redraw the London map as we know it 166 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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new Brooklyn are now lighting a touchpaper in the arid outer boroughs. Taking advantage of a transport Quays is the derelict dockside poised to become the city’s next billion-pound playground STORY BY

Emily Wright

ne day...” Property developer Elliot trails off, momentarily distracted O Lipton as he sidesteps another tangle of kneehigh weeds strewn with rubbish, chunks of old masonry and an abandoned sleeping bag. Brambles successfully navigated, he starts again. “One day... this will be the new Soho.” It would be a bold statement even if the managing director of property firm First Base was not making it while balanced on a patch of rocky terrain looking out across 62 acres of east London wasteland with nothing but a derelict, asbestosriddled old flour mill between him and the horizon. But like Soho, Old Street and Shoreditch before it, this wasteland could soon become the place where every start-up wants to work, where every bright young thing wants to live and where the next generation of London’s best and most hi-tech office space is built. Welcome to Silvertown Quays, one of the biggest and most ambitious projects currently underway in the UK capital. At the heart of it lies that asbestos-riddled flour mill. A 500,000 sq ft art deco cultural icon, complete with a Banksy and its own Twitter account, Millennium Mills is set to become London’s answer to New York’s Meatpacking District, following last year’s approval by thenmayor Boris Johnson to redevelop it into 150 workplaces by 2017. And it is this building that is the linchpin to claims that the £3.5 billion scheme will become London’s “new creative hub” by 2018. Another bold claim, but it makes sense. The sheer size of the site twinned with the fact that, bar the mill, it is a blank canvas gives developers a free rein to realise their ambitious vision for the ultimate live, work and play district of the future. Then there is the location. Out on the city’s eastern fringes, this is an area of London that swathes of target tenants (think young, hip, independent and tech savvy) are already hurtling towards at warp speed, as high rents push them further out of prime central territory. So what will this future development and the “premiumisation” of such a downtrodden part of the city mean for the evolution of how Londoners live and work? The Silvertown Quays project will redraw the London map as we currently know it. A new district on such a scale – 62 acres – will bring this long-overlooked fringe area into the capital’s new, extended centre. Not least because once Crossrail opens in 2018 the development will be just 14 minutes from the West End. Add to this the fact it is seven minutes from City airport and suddenly AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 167

you are looking at one of the most wellconnected sites in the city. The seven million sq ft project will eventually become a new 24-hour district and deliver up to 3,000 new homes and five million sq ft of commercial space – including the ultimate in modern offices and strictly independent shop and restaurant brands. So no Starbucks then? “No Starbucks,” laughs Lipton. He adds that the mix of residential and office space on the site represents the changing way in which people want to work. “People don’t want long commutes any more,” he says. “The distinction between living and working is blurring and people want a far less formal office environment now. And you no longer have to be in an office to be at work either. You can be online anywhere.” A sentiment echoed by AHMM’s Simon Allford, the architect behind some of Old Street’s most high profile new buildings, including The White Collar Factory. “The next generation will work long and hard,” he says, “so they need the ability to work from anywhere. And location matters even less than infrastructure connection.” And if those new high-speed transport links fail to attract the creative crowd, the redevelopment of the iconic Millennium Mills building – a story in its own right – just might do the trick. The crumbling structure is arguably the jewel in the Silvertown crown, thanks to its cult following. Voted one of the Guardian’s top ten ruins of 2015 the mill has appeared in a number of music videos for bands including Arctic Monkeys, The Smiths and Snow Patrol. First Base hopes that the decision to turn this building into a start-up hub rather than use it for residential – “the easy option” – will draw a plethora of cool young companies to the area, lured by the chance to be based in a cultural icon. “Crossrail and upgraded infrastructure will be the game-changer,” says Lipton from his patch of rocky terrain. “History tells us that people will follow major infrastructure investment. And they will do so again this time around to get away from the top rents of prime central London. And the level of development we will see in peripheral areas like this out to the east of the city as a result? It is going to be unbelievable.”

f course, London’s premiumisation story does not stop at Silvertown. But it will not necessarily continue on its current trajectory east either. And with nothing on such a scale currently planned beyond it, could it signal the end of the current migration and kick-start a 180 degree shift back to the western side of the city? With swathes of major redevelopments and transport upgrades underway in west London,


168 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Broken promise: At present, the area is weed-strewn and derelict, and is centred on the art deco ruins of Millennium Mills

including the iconic BBC White City project, it is a very real possibility. And while the concept of premiumisation has long been associated with the city’s wild, eastern wilderness it is worth remembering that west London is more than pastel mews houses in Notting Hill. Think Hammersmith, Acton and Ealing to name a few, all areas where the opportunity for a value lift is ripe – opportunity once again fuelled by transport upgrades. “East is, and always has been, cheaper,” says AHMM’s Allford. “So there is still more room to drift there. But that is the product of opportunity, not desire. Quarters will emerge wherever there is infrastructure – west as well as east.” This is a prediction bolstered by the fact that, like Soho, Shoreditch and Silvertown, the proposed plans for development and transport upgrades in west London will ultimately result in the delivery of schemes that will reflect the new ways people want to work and live. And there is a particular focus on the 50-acre White City redevelopment, which will see the creation of 5,000 new homes, a Harvard-style university campus, office space and a media village. And the endorsement to end all others? Nick Jones is moving in with a new Soho House boutique hotel. “West London has always been known as a hub of creative talent,” says Jones. “White City will be at the centre of it. We’ve had a presence in west London for a long time, so it seemed like a natural progression for us when the opportunity arose. All of the Houses respect the history of the sites they inhabit and have

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The site will draw cool young companies to the area

Artists in residence: Developer First Base envisions a new creative hub on the Royal Docks, built around the reborn Millennium Mills

their own identity, so White City will definitely be distinct from the others.” But while a shift from east to west looks likely, property experts and young start-ups alike are quick to point out that it will be different from the eastern migration we have seen build pace over the last five years. The latter was a long overdue, and very necessary, premiumisation – one that has seen a degree of power and desirability shift from one side of London to the other. The shift back west will be a “rebalancing”, says Tom Redmayne, UK business development director at connectivity certification firm WiredScore. And it will not be at the expense of the new, improved eastern side of the city. “Now east London is firmly on the map it will be less east or west and more east and west,” he says. “I don’t think west London’s creativity ever went away,” adds Soho House’s Jones. “But it’s certainly an exciting time at the moment for this part of the capital.” David Rosen, senior partner at creative property consultant Pilcher Hershman, agrees. “What there is going to be now is something that we have never seen before.” he says. “A balance between the creative east and the creative west.” The overarching message is that bright young things will not be fleeing the east in their droves as soon as Soho House opens its west London doors. Ross Bailey, the 23-year-old

founder of pop-up retail start-up Appear Here says, “There are always growth areas in London. But now it is about adding opportunity areas where people are going to want to live and work rather than new areas wiping out the old ones.” Redmayne adds, “There are 100,000 people a year coming to London. They won’t all be looking to move east. They will be going where the opportunities are; where there is fast digital connectivity; where there are developments that have been based on global tech trends.” Here he points out that west London has actually remained a hot spot for media startups throughout the east London migration and predicts that this identity will strengthen over the next few years. “You have Sky, Virgin, the BBC all out west. This side of the creative world will probably just become even stronger here because ultimately the future will see businesses, people and start-ups located where their needs are best suited.” And Juliette Morgan, partner at property surveyance giant Cushman & Wakefield, agrees: “If you look at London you’ll see a distribution of tech companies across the capital. It is true there is a concentration in east London, but there have always been some west. A few of the future 50 companies started west and remained that way. The reality is that start-ups will go where there is affordable office space, which tends to mean the periphery. And it is thanks to this that I think we are about to see a lot more profile for the west London scene.” East, west, north or south, when it comes to the future of London’s growth there is one thing that the capital’s developers agree on – it is all about fringe benefits. And anyone blinkered to the opportunities emerging outside of London’s better known prime central locations stands to miss out when those first Crossrail trains roll in.

Central struggles mean marginal gains WHEN it comes to London property, the nearer in you are – and the higher the value of your property – the more likely you are to take a hit, thanks to turmoil in the super luxury market. As global economic uncertainty and new stamp duty legislation has seen the number of overseas buyers splashing silly money on Knightsbridge and Mayfair mansions plummet, a knock-on effect is being felt in neighbouring boroughs, with the likes of Kensington & Chelsea and Hammersmith & Fulham being hit the hardest. According to research by property company JLL, the first three months of this

year saw a 0.3 per cent fall in prices in London’s core markets, including a massive 5.3 per cent drop in the central west area and a 2.9 per cent drop in the West End. Beyond zone two, things are not as frothy as they were 18 months ago, but prices are still on an upward trajectory – up 3.8 per cent on this time last year. And the east is faring particularly well, with a seven percent rise in prices in the first quarter of the year. Other safe-bet areas to keep an eye on are along Crossrail. Woolwich, West Drayton, Whitechapel and Abbey Wood are poised to see the biggest uplifts between 2016 and 2020.

When it comes to new build versus period conversions, the former is more likely to wobble in the short-term, not least because off-plan sales are required to release construction costs and stamp duty changes has led to a lot of foreign capital drying up. But if supply eases – and it looks as though it will, as the number of units applied for through planning dropped by 30 per cent in 2015 alone – then a surge in demand could see new builds becoming a decent medium- to long-term investment, particularly in east London, which is set for strong growth anyway. EW

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 169

Vest by Topman, £60. At Topman. topman. com. Trousers, £710. Bracelet, £575. Both by Roberto Cavalli, £710. Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, £365. Necklace by Shamballa Jewels, £16,157. shamballa Rings, from top: By Shamballa Jewels, £4,041. By Gucci, £210. By Roberto Cavalli, £220. By Gucci, £150 each. Thumb ring, stylist’s own

170 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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Jacket by Valentino, £5,000. T-shirt, stylist’s own. Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, £365. louisvuitton. com. Necklace by Gucci, £450.

Away daze From coastal California to the white beaches of Ibiza, liberate your inner peacenik with patterns from fashion’s feel-good hits of the summer PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Philippe Vogelenzang


Luke Day

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 171

Jacket, £2,950. Glasses, £210. Both by Gucci. Rings, from left: By Gucci, from £205 each. By Paul Smith. 172 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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Shirt, £438. Shorts, £727. Both by Dolce & Gabbana. Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, £365. louisvuitton. com. Necklace by Gucci, £450. Bracelets, from left: By Roberto Cavalli, £575. By Paul Smith. Rings, from left: By Gucci, £150 each. By Roberto Cavalli, £220. By Gucci, £210. By Shamballa Jewels, £4,041. shamballajewels. com. By Gucci, from £205 each. By Paul Smith. Thumb ring, stylist’s own

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 173

Jacket, £725. Top, £260. Glasses, £300. Necklace, £300. All by Gucci. Shorts by Dolce & Gabbana, £667. Bracelet by Paul Smith. Rings, from top: By Gucci, £210. By Roberto Cavalli, £220. By Gucci, from £150 each. By Paul Smith

174 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

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Top, £2,900. Trousers, £710. Necklace, £575. All by Roberto Cavalli. Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, £365. Rings, from top: By Gucci, from £205 each. By Paul Smith.

AUGUST 2016 GQ.CO.UK 175

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Jacket by Hermès, £2,530. Trousers by Dolce & Gabbana, £895. Necklace by Gucci, £300. Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, £365. Bracelet by Roberto Cavalli, £575. Rings, from top: By Gucci, from £205 each. By Shamballa Jewels, £4,041. By Gucci, £210. By Roberto Cavalli, £220. By Gucci, £150 each. Thumb ring, stylist’s own

176 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016

Shirt by Prada, £710. Trunks by Vivienne Westwood, £160. viviennewestwood. com. Glasses by Gucci, £210. Rings, from left: By Gucci, £210. By Shamballa Jewels, £4,041. By Gucci, from £205 each. By Paul Smith. Thumb ring, stylist’s own Fashion assistant Emily Tighe Hair Ben Jones using Bumble & Bumble and Chanel S/S 2016 La Solution 10 de Chanel Photography assistant Guus Schoth Digital technician Peter Rokven Casting Paul Isaac Production Bilgen Coskun Model Henrik Fallenius at Models 1. Shot on location at The Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum. bodrum

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Stockists Certina @certina

Adidas @adidas

Church’s @churchs

AG Jeans @agjeans

Citizen @citizenwatch

Aldo @aldo_shoes

Clerc @clercwatches

Alexander McQueen @worldmcqueen

Coach @coach

APC @apc_paris

Gucci @gucci


H&M @bally_swiss @hm Corneliani @corneliani_official

Berluti @berluti


Boss @hugoboss

Brioni @brioni_official

Taylor Morris @taylormorrisldn

Paul Smith @paulsmithdesign

Thomas Sabo @thomassabo

Philipp Plein @philipppleininternational

Tiger Of Sweden @tigerofswedenofficial

Hackett @hackettlondon


Pringle @pringlescotland


Ralph Lauren @lacoste @ralphlauren

Louis Vuitton @louisvuitton

Ray-Ban @rayban

Hardy Amies @hardyamieslndn

Dior Homme @dior

Harrods @harrods

Dolce & Gabbana @dolcegabbana

Harvey Nichols @harveynichols

DSquared2 @dsquared2

Hermès @hermes

Dune @dune_london

House Of Fraser @houseoffraser

Michael Kors @michaelkors

Dunhill @alfreddunhill

Hugo Boss @hugoboss

Moncler @moncler


Hunter @hunterboots

Mondaine @mondaine_watch


Mont Blanc @montblanc

Luminox @luminoxworld

Marks & Spencer @marksandspencer @matchesfashion

Tom Ford @tomford Tommy Hilfiger @tommyhilfiger Topman @topman Turnbull And Asser @turnball_asser @uniqlo_uk

Richard James @richardjamesofficial Russell & Bromley @randbman


aint Laurent @ysl


Sand @sandcopenhagen

Vertu @officialvertu

Santamaria @santamariashirtmakers

Victorinox @victorinox

Seiko @seikowatchofficial

Vilebrequin @vilebrequin

Selfridges @theofficialselfridges

Whistles @oliverpeoples

Smythson @smythson

William & Son @williamandson

Oliver Spencer @oliverspencer

Sunday Somewhere @sundaysomewhere

Woolrich @woolrichpeople

Omega @omega

Sunspel @sunspelclothing

Wooyoungmi @wooyoungmiofficial

WC @iwcwatches

Bulgari @bulgariofficial

Ermenegildo Zegna @zegnaofficial

immy Choo @jimmychoo

ext @nextofficial

Bulova @bulova

ETQ @etqamsterdam

John Smedley @johnsmedleyknitwear

Nixon @nixon_europe

Burberry @burberry

Etro @etro_official

John Varvatos @johnvarvatos

Nomos Glashütte @nomos_glashuette

Calvin Klein Collection @calvinklein

ieves & Hawkes @gieveslondon

Canali @canali1934

Giorgio Armani @armani


Giuseppe Zanotti @giuseppezanottiworld


Oliver Peoples


Tod’s @tods

Salvatore Ferragamo @ferragamo

Emporio Armani @armani


Timberland @timberland


Massimo Dutti @massimodutti

Brunello Cucinelli @brunellocucinelli


190 GQ.CO.UK AUGUST 2016


urt Geiger @kurtgeiger @dakslondon

Marinella @emarinella

al Zileri @palzileri



Bottega Veneta @bottegaveneta

Tateossian @tateossianlondon


Baume Et Mercier @baumeetmercier


AG Heuer @tagheuer

Orlebar Brown @orlebarbrown

Prada @prada


Ami @amiparis

Oris @oriswatch



cne Studios @acnestudios

August 2016 @versace_official @thisiswhistles

TECH NEWS WITH REAL IMPACT Ars Technica, founded in 1998, is the world’s most influential technology website and community, providing deep analysis and impartial reporting of the confluence of science, technology, policy, and the Internet.

Ars Technica UK builds upon these 17 years of experience, with high-quality journalism that spans the width and breadth of UK and Europe. “Ars comes up with insight that no one else has.” Sergey Brin, cofounder, Google









Dinder House Only seven miles from Glastonbury, Dinder House is a Grade II-listed Regency property that has been sensitively modernised to retain its character. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on 21.6 acres, which include a walled garden thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect to linger in on long summer evenings. Price on application. Contact Knight Frank (020 7861 1528)

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Shenburgh Walberswick is a famously pretty village and has the added bonus of being close to the laid-back Latitude festival. This three-bedroom property has rather idyllic views of the nearby church â&#x20AC;&#x201C; little wonder, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right in the middle of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. £920,000 Contact Strutt & Parker (01473 214841)




The Little Cottage With Wilderness Festival, the new Soho Farmhouse and the cultural delights of Oxford close by, The Little Cottage in Churchill is a perfect rural bolthole for intellectual mavens. The two-bedroom cottage is only three miles from Chipping Norton, so you never know who you might bump into. £350,000. Contact Butler Sherborn (01451 830731)


A truly exceptional villa commanding a glorious corner position overlooking a wonderful garden square and represents a remarkable fusion of traditional and contemporary.

The accommodation offers 8 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 6 shower rooms, 4 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, 2 studies, gym, spa, steam and sauna room, wine store, terrace, balconies, garden, 2 passenger lifts, garage with car lift. Approximately 1,235 sq m (13,285 sq ft). FREEHOLD PRICE ON APPLICATION

Notting Hill

020 3641 6027

Classical Quinlan Terry country house GREAT CANFIELD, ESSEX Great Dunmow: 3 miles, Bishopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Stortford: 12 miles, M11 (Junction 8): 9 miles, Central London: 43 miles 5 reception rooms, master bedroom suite, guest bedroom suite, 10 further bedrooms, games room, wine cellar, gym, billiards room, gardens include a croquet lawn, terraces, parterres, lawns, orchard, parkland, pastureland, woodland, outdoor heated swimming pool with pool house, tennis court, garaging with stores & workshop, 1 bedroom staff cottage. EPCs = D

Stephen White Savills Chelmsford

01245 293221 Crispin Holborow Savills London Country Department

020 3581 3581 About 47.11 acres I Price on application



A PICTURESQUE CITY TO CALL HOME Imagine spending your weekends browsing boutique stores, dining out at fine eateries or punting along a winding river. Well, living in Cambridge offers all of this and more.

Mitchams Park is within walking distance of all these attractions and what’s more, this collection of modern apartments, houses and townhouses is surrounded by green open space. Each of these stylish homes has a private parking space and cycle storage.

With a host of attractions to discover and a vibrant nightlife, you’ll never be bored. You’ll find a selection of museums and galleries in the centre, as well as a variety of restaurants, shops and bars. Strolling around the college museums is the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday or you could enjoy a breath of fresh air and walk along the River Cam.

The striking Halo development is also positioned in an enviable location. Just off of Long Road, these contemporary homes have been designed to the highest specification and benefit from floor-to-ceiling windows, integrated appliances and an open plan layout.

Mitchams Park 2 bedroom apartments priced from £475,000 | 2 bedroom houses priced from £510,000 Halo 1 & 2 bedroom apartments priced from £340,000 | 3 bedroom houses priced from £625,000 4 & 5 bedroom houses priced from £999,500

Want to find out more about life in Cambridge? Contact the team today… Local area photography and show home photography taken at Halo and Mitchams Park. Pricing correct on 31.05.16.

01277 693230

Feltercairn House is great for house parties










The sporting lodge at Glenelg

KINGDOM COME Built by Feadship in 1979, the iconic 60.55m KINGDOM COME was the largest Feadship launched at the time. She underwent a significant refit in 2015, retaining her 9 luxurious en suite cabins. Now exclusively for sale through Cecil Wright Price EUR 14,950,000 VAT Paid Contact Henry Smith:









The Langley & Tanqueray Penthouses BATTERSEA REACH


Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies Computer enhanced image is indicative only. Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Maldives

The Riverside Penthou se

Exquisitely Detailed with Views to Hurlingham

Immaculately designed four bedroom penthouse, with panoramic views of the Thames. Ready to move into now, with pool, gym, steamroom, gardens, car parking and a delightful river attached. Travel by Thames Clippers to the West End or the City. Pri ce o n A p p l i ca t i o n

T h e S a l e s G a l l e r y, M i l l i n e r s H o u s e , E a s t f i e l d s A v e n u e , S W 1 8 1 L P

020 8877 2000 ri v er s i d eq u a r t er. com


...with JAMES BAY GQ rocks up with the cat in the hat for some hero worship over steak and rosé at Bellanger t was Keith Richards, no less, who turned me on to guitar-noodling, hatwearing singer-songwriter James Bay. I was lucky enough to be sitting with the 72-year-old human prune at this very magazine’s Men Of The Year Awards almost a year ago, where Bay happened to be opening proceedings with an electrifying version of mournful lovers’ favourite “Hold Back The River”. Just before Bay had finished singing for his supper The Rolling Stones’ main offender put down his plastic cup of “Nuclear Waste” – Stolly’n’Sunkist fizzy orange – turned to me and growled, “This kid is the real deal, maaaaaan!” And then chuckled like only an emphysema-suffering goblin king can. I have wondered ever since whether Richards was being sincere or merely mocking a meeker generation. “I actually met him later that night,” Bay says when I bring up Richard’s slurred aside over a working(ish) lunch of steak and rosé at Corbin & King’s bosomy new French brasserie, Bellanger, on Islington Green, north London. “It was surreal. I seemed to be watching myself have a conversation with him from afar – very X-Files – and he said, ‘You can’t stop. I need you.’ Ronnie [Wood] was there that night also. To be talking to these two guitar legends was a very cool moment.” So ice cool a moment was it, in fact, that Bay found himself inadvertently corralling Wood to come and join him on stage the following week. “He asked me what I was up to. I told him we were due to do shows at Brixton Academy. I don’t know what took hold of me but I said, ‘You want to come up on stage with us?’ Silence followed. And then he smiled and went, ‘Yeah, alright.’ Next weekend there we are, on stage together playing ‘(I Know) I’m Losing You’ by The Faces.” Ever since Bay stepped in for a no-show Lana Del Rey on Radio 1’s Live Lounge in September 2014 he’s had to get used to meeting his heroes. Not that he’d call Taylor Swift a hero – “She’s not one of my favourites” – but his profile can’t have been hurt by the “Shake It Off” star attending two of Bay’s gigs, tweeting her admiration of him to


77.7 million followers and then inviting Bay to be a support act on her European tour. More recently, Justin Bieber called on Bay’s nimble fingers when he needed a guitarist to accompany him on stage at this year’s Brits, although not before Bay had picked up Best Male Solo Artist. Not bad for a skinny kid from Hitchin, Hertfordshire, with a penchant for widebrimmed headgear. Speaking of Bay’s usually omnipresent hat, however, it’s notable in its absence at our lunch. I wonder if he’s misplaced it? “No, I can’t sit and eat with a hat on. It would be rude.” Not to say Bay underestimates the power of a sartorial trademark. “From Michael Jackson’s glove to Madonna’s cone breasts, I understand and appreciate the theatrics of all that stuff. Mine is an Akubra, an Australian brand, which I get from a shop in Nashville. But I have a good head of hair; sometimes I want to let it out.” Can he ever see himself ditching the hat entirely? “I’m not going to wear it forever. In fact, not wearing it makes me a little bit more invisible.” To finish we have a double macchiato (me), a cup of milky Earl Grey (him) and are brought a tray of petits fours so fancy it would make even the frilliest Parisian barmaid blush. As it’s the end of our meal I wonder if Bay has given much thought to his own legacy. He takes a final sip of the chilled pink wine. “Rosé? What a guy, what a vintage,” he laughs. “No, I don’t know: good songs, nice bloke?” In a world full of hotel room-trashing prima donnas, Bay’s ambitions are almost rebellious in their amiability. The bill arrives. We tip – cash and our metaphorical hats. Do you own any weapons? “A cigar cutter. Mine’s a chrome chopper. I have a bread knife too, of course. I own no guns.” Any ink? “No. It took me 25 years to decide where to get one and it’ll take me 25 years to decide what I actually want.” Breakfast of champions? “Cereal. Sugary? Not necessarily. In America whatever is local can be pretty exciting. Some of that stuff will send you on a journey.” Have you ever kept your hat on while making love? “Absolutely not. It all comes off.” Bellanger, 9 Islington Green, London N1. 020 7226 2555. bellanger. Watch the Out To Lunch film with James Bay on


Rock star ++++,

Guitar hero +++++

Motor mouth ++++,

Clothes horse +++,,Wine bore +,,,,Overall ++++,

Illustrations Edson Lovatto; Zohar Lazar

‘Keith Richards said, “You can’t stop. I need you”’

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH RAYMOND WEIL is proud to be supporting Swiss sailing team Realteam as its OfďŹ cial Timing Partner and to introduce a new freelancer able to support the crew in the most extreme sailing conditions. A nice little tip of the hat to Mr Raymond Weil who was a member of the Geneva Yacht Club. Join the discussion #RWRealteam

freelancer collection

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