THE BEAUTY EXPERT
The (Totally Unexpected) World of
4 6 New
Plus: Cleansing Balms, Cool Haircuts, and Color Trends
Jessica Alba How to Take 10 Years Off Your Jawline
My Life On the
The Fall Fashion Issue:
Texture! Prints! The New Luxe
SEPTEMBER IN THIS ISSUE BEAUTY REPORTER 77 Look We Love: Rosy Cheeks and Peach Lips 78 Editors’ Favorites 80 Deep, Romantic Scents • Actress Lily James on Corsets, Glass Slippers, and What Always Makes Her Blush
82 Back-to-School Beauty Essentials • The Wild World of Dubai Nail Art 84 Sharp, Sexy, Easy Hairstyles • Customizable Mascaras
SEASON’S FORECAST Increase your wingspan with flicks at the inner corners.
88 Volumizers for Wet and Dry Hair • Dior’s Brightening Cushion Compact • Recipe for a Gorgeous Night Out 90 Beautiful People: François Nars
92 Cult Object: Bespoke Skin Care by Kiehl’s Left: Top by Isabel Marant. Earrings by Eddie Borgo. Makeup colors: Perfect Point Plus Eye Pencil in Charcoal, TruBlend Contour Palette, and Oh Sugar lip balm in Candy by CoverGirl. Top: Dior Diorblush Light & Contour Sculpting Stick Duo in 001. Details, see Shopping Guide.
10 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; JASON KIBBLER
86 The Most Hydrating Face Wash • Something Blue—for Your Vanity and Your Makeup Bag
FALL COLORS Deep, moody nail polishes (and one highlighter!) we’re digging right now.
130 Trend Report. Rogue Hair. A new generation of stylish and cool women are putting down the tweezers, stepping away from the wax, and letting it grow. 134 Social Experiment. The Instagram Diet. What would happen if you spent a week eating only foods that are as pretty as a picture?
FASHION 95 Great Strides. Short dresses and tall boots make for one quirky-cool look. Platforms! Tassels! Allure accessories director Nicole Chapoteau is ready to dance the night away.
100 Power Surge. With sharp suits and architectural heels, Allure fashion director Rachael Wang is all business for fall. 102 Shoe Shine. Romantic,
NEWS & TRENDS 44 My Look. Talking Beauty With Lily Aldridge. The model, muse, and “girlie tomboy” shares her beauty secrets.
56 Hair Inspiration. Snip Decisions. Four women get the A-list treatment: A makeover from master hairstylist Chris McMillan.
68 Beauty School. Vamp lips;
104 Snap Happy. Colorful
clandestine nail art; bigger, wider eyes; and more.
106 A Charmed Life. Prada’s whimsical choker
112 Elements of Style. 1 Piece, 3 Ways. Model Myla Dalbesio gets creative with a fitted knit dress by Jason Wu.
Reason to Smile. In an age when it seems like every other celebrity has a lifestyle brand, Jessica Alba’s Honest Company stands out from the crowd. By David DeNicolo
150 Drama Majors. Candyapple lips, copper-penny shadow, and softly glowing skin—these are the fall makeup trends you’ll want to wear. By Liana Schaffner
The Makeup Pro. Back to Basics. Jillian Dempsey gives us her top three expert tips for faking perfect skin.
118 Phenomenon. Mirror, Mirror. We can look younger, thinner, and more Gisele-y at the tap of a finger—and it’s fundamentally changing the way we see ourselves. 122 Anti-Aging Report. Darkness Invisible. The answer— once and for all—to age spots. 124
Beauty Passport. Scents of Place. A small town in the south of France is at the heart of Chanel fragrances.
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Above, clockwise from top left: Dior Nail Lacquer in Skyline, OPI Nail Lacquer in CIA = Color Is Awesome, Tom Ford Nightbloom Powder in Black Bloom, Essie nail polish in Playing Koi, and OPI Nail Lacquer in Suzi—The First Lady of Nails.
96 Hot Stuff. Sequins!
MODEL BEHAVIOR Lily Aldridge shares her ideas for faking a good night’s sleep, her secret yogurt trick, and the one thing you should never do with bronzer.
160 The New V. Sharp as a capital V, a younger-looking jawline is no longer an obsession—it’s a reality. By Elizabeth Siegel
164 Bring on the Noise. Paired with bold prints, furry cuffs, embellished tops—and a pair of bright-white combat boots— brocade looks anything but stiff.
REGULARS 28 Contributors 34 Cover Look 40 Editor’s Letter 42 Beauty by Numbers. A fresh look at beauty marks.
ON THE COVER
Jessica Alba’s look can be re-created with the following: Falling for You Makeup Palette by Daniel Martin, Contour + Highlight Kit, Brow Filler in Warm Auburn, and Magic Balm by Honest Beauty. Satin-and-lace dress by Stella McCartney. Earrings by Jennifer Meyer and Alba’s own. Bracelets by Ariana Broussard-Reifel. Ring, Alba’s own. Photographed by Will Davidson. Hair, Davy Newkirk; makeup, Ozzy Salvatierra; manicure, Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Evan Jourden. Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton. Details, see Shopping Guide. 16 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
FROM TOP: SILJA MAGG; WILL DAVIDSON
Autobiography. Adriana Lima fills in the blanks.
ALLURE .COM MAGIC
ON THE STREETS
See what it looks like when you match your eye-shadow, blush, and lipstick shades to your zodiac sign. Yes. Your zodiac sign. It’s a whole new (and surprisingly effective!) way to personalize your look for fall. Find out how at allure.com/zodiac-beauty. 18 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
Just for You Want news, tips you haven’t heard, and live videos with industry bosses? Like us on Facebook. M.A.C. Studio Eye Gloss in Money Honey
FROM TOP: BEK ANDERSEN (3); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
The prettiest peacocks always emerge during fashion week. See all the beauty (and fashion) inspo worth copying at allure .com/fashionweek-streetstyle.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
MICHELLE LEE D E S I G N D I R E C TO R
E X E C U T I V E E D I TO R
M A N AG I N G E D I TO R
E X E C U T I V E B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R
JENNY BAILLY D E P U T Y E D I TO R
PATTY ADAMS MARTINEZ D E P U T Y B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R
ELIZABETH SIEGEL S E N I O R B E AU T Y E D I TO R
JESSICA CHIA B E AU T Y E D I TO R
LEXI NOVAK A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R
CHLOE METZGER RACHAEL WANG
WHICH BEAUTY TREND WOULD YOU NEVER TRY?
AC C E S S O R I E S D I R E C TO R
NICOLE CHAPOTEAU A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I TO R
I’m leaving eyebrow bleaching to Kim K.
FA SH ION D I R E C TO R
P H OTO D I R E C TO R
RHIANNA RULE B O O K I N G S D I R E C TO R
RO PENULIAR E X E C U T I V E P H OTO E D I TO R
BETH GARRABRANT S E N I O R P H OTO E D I TO R
HOLLY WATSON A S S O C I AT E P H OTO E D I TO R
HANNAH CHOI S E N I O R A R T D I R E C TO R
NICOLE ARGENTO A S S I S TA N T A R T D I R E C TO R
MEGAN MAQUERA JUNIOR DESIGNER
I have a toddler, so anything that takes more than 45 seconds is out. Sorry, ombré lip.
R E S E A R C H D I R E C TO R
C O P Y E D I TO R
R E S E A R C H E D I TO R
A S S O C I AT E R E S E A R C H E D I TO R
CRISTINA RIVERA P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C TO R
HEATHER TUMA NAPOLITANO P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E R
VALERIE THOMAS P R O D U C T I O N A S S I S TA N T
EMMA LOUISE JOSLYN D I G I TA L D I R E C TO R
SIMONE OLIVER D E P U T Y D I G I TA L E D I TO R
RACHEL JACOBY ZOLDAN
D I G I TA L D E P U T Y B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R
S E N I O R D I G I TA L E D I TO R
DEENA CAMPBELL S E N I O R S O C I A L M E D I A E D I TO R
GERILYN MANAGO D I G I TA L P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E R
D I G I TA L E D I TO R
SEUNGHEE SUH VIDEO PRODUCER
D I G I TA L B E AU T Y E D I TO R
KRISTIE DASH DANA BURKE A S S O C I AT E S O C I A L M E D I A P R O D U C E R
ARIBA ALVI S E N I O R P R O D U C T M A N AG E R
D I G I TA L A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R
RENEE JACQUES ASSOCIATE DIGITAL RESEARCH AND COPY EDITOR
JANELL HAZELWOOD A S S O C I AT E D I R E C TO R , AU D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T
A N A LY T I C S M A N AG E R
TULIKA SINGH S E N I O R P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S D I R E C TO R
ERIN KAPLAN B E AU T Y A S S I S TA N T
KATHLEEN SUICO A S S I S TA N T TO T H E E D I TO R I N C H I E F
S O C I A L M E D I A M A N AG E R
PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI C O N T R I B U T I N G P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C TO R
GRETCHEN VITAMVAS C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R S
JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID D E NICOLO, MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, BROOKE LE POER TRENCH, CHRIS M C MILLAN, JUDITH NEWMAN, LIANA SCHAFFNER F O U N D I N G E D I TO R
C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I TO R I A L P R OJ E C T S D I R E C TO R
PUBLISHER, CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER
AGNES BOGDAN CHAPSKI HEAD OF BRAND MARKETING & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS
JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE & OPERATIONS
A DV E R T I S I N G E X EC U T I V E I N T EG R AT E D D I R ECTO RS
MARIA GARCIA, KIM CONWAY HALEY, LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SANDRA MAURIELLO EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR–FASHION, JEWELRY, AND WATCH
SARAH YORK RICHARDS I N T EG R AT E D D I R E C TO R
CARLY GRESH I N T EG R AT E D M A N AG E R
ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY EZRA SEAN ALVAREZ 323-965-3564 E X EC U T I V E M I DW E ST D I R ECTO RS
CHRISTINA KROLOPP 312-649-6731 ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST 312-649-3509
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NATALIE BANKER TAQUINO 415-955-8280 N E W E N G L A N D/ D E T RO I T
KRISTIN HAVENS 585-255-0207 D I R ECT R E S P O N S E
REBECCA VOLK 800-753-5370 ext. 489
WHICH ELENA DE GIULI SELIM MATARACI BEAUTY 011-39-02-655-84223 011-33-1-44-78-00-62 TREND SHERRI GINSBERG DIGITAL WOULD YOU NICOLE AMICO SMITH NEVER TRY? I TA LY
U. K . / F R A N C E
S E N I O R B U S I N E SS D I R ECTO R
E X EC U T I V E S O U T H W E ST D I R ECTO R
Gonna skip the man bun.
H E A D O F D I G I TA L R E V E N U E
D I G I TA L AC C O U N T E X EC U T I V E S
HARRIET KADAR, ALISON WOOD D I G I TA L SA L E S D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R
D I G I TA L C A M PA I G N M A N AG E R
D I G I TA L SA L E S P L A N N E R
CONTENT MARKETING AND PARTNERSHIPS E X EC U T I V E D I R ECTO R, ST R AT EG I C PA RT N E RS H I P S
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C O N T E N T M A R K E T I N G D I R ECTO R
ALEXIS WALL B E AU T Y B OX M A N AG E R
INTEGR ATED MARKETING AND CRE ATIVE SERVICES
Tanning beds—how can something so dangerous be legal?
E X EC U T I V E D I R ECTO R
ERIN BRENNAN D E S I G N D I R ECTO R
MARIS BODELL S E N I O R D I R ECTO RS
STEFENI BELLOCK, SHARI SOBINE D I R ECTO R
M A N AG E R
MARKETING SERVICES E X EC U T I V E D I R ECTO R, M A R K E T I N G
GERARD FARRELL S E N I O R D I R ECTO R, M A R K E T I N G I N T E L L I G E N C E
JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ E X EC U T I V E ASS I STA N T TO T H E P U B L I S H E R
CORI MOSCOWITZ S A L E S A S S O C I AT E
JULIA BROKAW I N T EG R AT E D C O O R D I N ATO R
VINCENT KEEGAN I N T E G R AT E D A S S I S TA N T S
ZUIE BILLINGS, ALEXANDRA KELIKIAN, CARA KURICA, STEPHANIE TILLISON P U B LI S H E D BY C O N D É N A S T
SVP–B u s i n e s s O p e ra t i o n s SVP–Corporate Controller SVP–Managing Director, 23 Stories SVP–Network Sales & Partnerships, Condé Nast & C h i e f Reve n u e O f f i c e r, C N É SVP–Financial Planning & Analysis SVP–Strategy, 23 Stories SVP–Ad Tech SVP–Licensing SVP–Re s e a rc h & A n a l y t i c s SVP–D i g i t a l O p e ra t i o n s
S. I. NEWHOUSE, JR. CHARLES H. TOWNSEND ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR. DAVID E. GEITHNER EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI JILL BRIGHT FRED SANTARPIA MONICA RAY JOANN MURRAY CAMERON BLANCHARD DAVID ORLIN DAVID B. CHEMIDLIN JOSH STINCHCOMB
Chairman Emeritus Chairman President & Chief Executive Officer Chief Financial Officer Chief Marketing Officer & President–Condé Nast Media Group Chief Administrative Officer EVP & Chief Digital Officer EVP–Consumer Marketing EVP–Human Resources EVP–Corporate Communications
The Siberian snail facial.
LISA VALENTINO SUZANNE REINHARDT PADRAIG CONNOLLY DAVID ADAMS CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER STEPHANIE FRIED LARRY BAACH DAWN OSTROFF JOY MARCUS SAHAR ELHABASHI JEREMY STECKLER MICHAEL KLEIN JOE L ABRACIO AL EDGINGTON TEAL NEWLAND
C O N D É N A S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L Chairman and Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets. condenast.com condenastinternational.com
24 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
C O N D É N A S T E N T E R TA I N M E N T President EVP/General Manager, Digital Video EVP & Chief Operating Officer EVP–Motion Pictures EVP–Programming & Content Strategy, Digital Channels EVP–Alternative TV EVP–CNÉ Studios SVP–Marketing & Partner Management
C O N T R I B U TO R S
BENJAMIN PUCKEY The makeup artist dipped his brushes in a palette of reds, coppers, and greens for “Drama Majors.” What inspired me to become a makeup artist: “Debbie Harry’s smoky eyes.” The most underrated product: “An invisible loose setting powder.” My favorite look for fall: “Glossy, fire-red lips.” The most unexpected product in my kit: “Johnson’s Baby Oil Gel.”
OLIVIER POLGE The perfumer explains how he modernized Chanel No. 5 in “Scents of Place.” My first scent memory: “Holidays in the south of France with the Mediterranean gardens.” Favorite smell: “Wet earth.” My favorite piece of art: “The last Beethoven sonata, Op. 111.” People should always smell... “with imagination.” People should never smell... “without their hearts.”
BETH FENTON The stylist dreamt up Jessica Alba’s breezy looks for “Reason to Smile.” The closet I’d love to pillage: “My family friend Norma has Kenzo, Yohji, Issey, Gaultier, and Maud Frizon from the ’80s and ’90s.” On my fall shopping list: “Topshop Unique velvet boots.” My ideal Sunday: “Galleries, farmers’ market, home cooking, roof terrace with friends.”
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
MOLLY YOUNG The writer takes on a social-media food challenge in “The Instagram Diet.” The least Instagrammable food I eat: “There is absolutely no preparation of eggs that looks attractive in a photo.” To summarize my dieting history: “Do we have any ice cream?” My superhero power would be: “Detangling my hair without pain.” My actual secret talent: “Ping-Pong.”
28 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
The crew built a rustic tent on the beach.
Right: Dress by Stella McCartney. Earrings by A Peace Treaty, Jennifer Meyer, and Alba’s own. Bracelets by Ariana Boussard-Reifel. Rings by Dualitas and Alba’s own. Below: Bikini top by Marysia. Sweater by A Détacher. Earrings by Konstantino. Details, see Shopping Guide.
U No shoes required on set.
34 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
pon arriving at a Santa Monica beach house for her fifth Allure cover shoot, Alba was greeted by the crew—as well as Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell, who happened to be visiting the home’s owner. The three talked house renovations and reminisced about Kate Hudson’s thirtieth-birthday bash. Fashion stylist Beth Fenton chose a golden color palette for the shoot—and the monochromatic look suited Alba just fine. “I actually added more highlights to my hair because I wanted it to match my skin,” said Alba about her superior coordination tactics. After lunch (kale salad and roasted veggies for the actress), her daughters, Haven and Honor, stopped by. The girls played hide-and-seek and swam in the pool while Alba was in front of the camera. Chingy’s “Holidae In” may have played during the shoot, but the day wrapped with everyone singing “Happy Birthday” to photographer Will Davidson. “Blow out the candles so you can make a wish. Duh!” Alba teased him. —PATTY ADAMS MARTINEZ
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; SCOTT LEÓN (2).
The scoop from behind the scenes at Allure’s shoot.
COVER LOOK ADVE RTISE ME NT Coat by The Row. Details, see Shopping Guide.
BEAUTY LESSON Hair For Alba’s “romantic, undone look,” hairstylist Davy Newkirk parted her hair and Frenchbraided each side toward the back of her head. He wove the two plaits into a threestrand braid with the rest of her hair, twisted and pinned it all into a loose knot, and pulled out a few pieces to frame her face.
FROM TOP: SCOTT LEÓN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
Makeup Instead of hiding Alba’s natural freckles, makeup artist Ozzy Salvatierra enhanced them by dotting a brow pencil across her nose. He blended plum and lightberry lipsticks on her lips and cheeks and finished by dabbing a clear balm on her lids, cheekbones, and brows for a pretty gleam.
Alba’s look can be re-created with the following (clockwise from top): Falling for You Makeup Palette by Daniel Martin, Contour + Highlight Kit, Brow Filler in Warm Auburn, and Magic Balm by Honest Beauty.
Shop our exclusive online catalogue for an unparalleled vintage photography collection. Exquisitely printed and framed.
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36 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Years ago, I listened mouth agape as a coworker told me that she never drank water, just coffee, tea, and wine. How are you functioning? I thought. After all, I was a fanatical eight-glasses-a-day girl who kept a 38-ounce carafe at my desk filled and ready in case of an unforeseen drought. Fast-forward to 2016. Somehow over the years, coffee and wine had pushed H2O to the outskirts of my daily routine, to be sipped only occasionally at restaurants when it was placed right in front of me. Compared with the comfort of my steamy café au lait and nightly Cabernet, water seemed so, well...boring. Then it all caught up with me. I suspect that the nervous system can only take so much ping-ponging between stimulation and depression before it just gives out. I’d have a productive burst in the morning and hit the inevitable crash by 3 o’clock. I’m talking full zombification. I needed a firebomb solution to fix my energy situation. And one day, over a fresh-brewed cup from my beloved French press, I realized what it was. A few months earlier, makeup artist (and all-around woman-who-knows-everything) Pat McGrath had told me about Dr. Frank Lipman’s two-week cleanse, and then more recently, someone else had mentioned the same program to me over lunch. That was it. A sign.
Frank Lipman’s two-week cleanse, here I come. Intellectually, I knew what I needed to do. But the beauty of an official cleanse is that it provides structure. I needed someone barking orders: Eat this! Don’t eat this! Drink this! Don’t drink that! Every day for two weeks, I consumed three shakes and about a dozen pills (digestive enzymes and vitamins), plus a light lunch and dinner. Verboten foods included refined sugar, gluten, most dairy, eggs, caffeine (one cup was allowed), and, of course, alcohol. Good-bye, my precious. I’ll miss you. I have to admit: I had, surprisingly, no caffeine-withdrawal symptoms, even though I broke protocol and went cold turkey instead of tapering off. And I slipped only once, giving in to a glass of wine at a yacht party (willpower be damned at sea). With coffee and wine completely out of the picture, I rediscovered how wonderful, refreshing, and incredibly filling water can be. My body, my skin, and my brain had been absolutely starved for hydration. After 14 days, I felt more energized, my stomach was flatter, and—dare I say—my skin did have a healthy glow. I’m not saying coffee and wine are out of my life for good. But I am a more hydrated person these days. And yes, the carafe is back.
Michelle Lee, Editor in Chief @heymichellelee 40 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
FROM TOP: HANNAH CHOI; STEPHEN LEWIS/ART + COMMERCE
BEAUT Y BY NUMBERS
A distinction, a flaw, or a sign of youth? A look at the spotty history of beauty marks. —MADDIE ABERMAN
YEAR CINDY CRAWFORD’S mole was retouched out of the cover of British Vogue. She has since appeared on more than 400 magazine covers with her beauty mark intact.
SIZE IN COMPUTER bits of Ms. Pac-Man’s beauty mark, which was added in 1982 to feminize the videogame character.
YEAR A BRITISH STUDY concluded that the number of moles on your body is related to how quickly your skin ages.
AVERAGE NUMBER OF moles on the human body.
NUMBER OF MOLES on model Gigi Hadid’s stomach.
850 NUMBER OF TUTORIALS on YouTube showing how to draw on fake freckles, moles, and various other beauty marks.
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YEAR HADID’S constellation of stomach moles were retouched out of her Chinese Vogue cover, which was met with a major uproar from her fans.
FROM LEFT: CBS PHOTO ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; MARCO GLAVIANO
Lily Aldridge The model, mom, and self-proclaimed “girlie tomboy” reveals her hair and makeup essentials. By Patty Adams Martinez
Silk top by Michael Kors Collection. Vintage mesh top by Robert Gellar. Vintage leather pants by Kookie. Leather shoes by Nike. Silver necklace by Wasson Fine. Earrings and rings, stylist’s own. Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in Rouge Vic by Chanel. These pages: Hair, Harry Josh; makeup, Quinn Murphy. Fashion stylist: Ye Young Kim. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SILJA MAGG
T Michael Kors Wonderlust “makes me think of adventure, travel, and romance,” says Aldridge.
46 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
hree women walk into a bar: a badass rocker chick with smudgy liner in a vintage concert tee, an impeccably coiffed fashion-world darling dressed by the latest “It” designer, and a lingerie model wearing… well, does it really matter what a lingerie model is wearing? Fast-forward to the punch line—it’s only one woman: Lily Aldridge. The Italian-English, Nashvilledwelling supermodel is an enigma. Scratch that. She is a stunning enigma. (Is the girl crush coming through yet?) With creamy olive skin and wide-set eyes, Aldridge, 30, has dominated the seemingly mutually exclusive worlds of bedazzled bras (earning her Victoria’s Secret wings in 2009) and high fashion (becoming the face of Michael Kors’s latest fragrance, Wonderlust). She also happens to be the wife of Kings of Leon singer Caleb Followill, mother to four-year-old Dixie, and a founding member of Taylor Swift’s girl squad. If you haven’t noticed, we’re a little obsessed. So naturally, we grilled her on her beauty and style savvy and secrets.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (BENEFIT)
Benefit Sun Beam is Aldridge’s go-to highlighter. Right: “Tracey Cunningham has been coloring my hair since I was 14.” Cashmere sweater by Michael Kors Collection. Silk dress by Marissa Webb. Earring and ring, stylist’s own. Details, see Shopping Guide.
MY LOOK Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Matte in Volatile is “the perfect red for a night out.”
On the upside of being Italian: “In high school, I overtweezed my brows until I had about four hairs left on each one. Thankfully, I’m Italian with thick hair, so everything grew back. And I went through a goth phase, which looked terrible on me.” On getting perfect model-off-duty hair: “I like a pretty, undone look. So I wash my hair every other day so it doesn’t get dried out, and I let it air-dry. If I want soft waves, I’ll braid it first.”
“Right now I’m having a naturalhair moment, but I’m sure next year I’ll say, ‘It’s perm time!’” Silk top by Jill Stuart. Suede skirt by Michael Kors Collection. Details, see Shopping Guide.
On the haircut she will never repeat: “When I was a kid, I got a bob because all of the other girls on my soccer team with straight hair had one, and so I wanted one. Now I know girls with thick, curly hair should not get bobs. My hair was like one big circle.” On seeing the contents of her refrigerator in a new way: “I love making a body scrub with ground-up coffee and coconut oil. It’s really good for circulation, and it smells delicious. I also do a DIY Greek-yogurt-and-honey mask that softens your skin and helps reduce puffy eyes.” On a very uncontroversial style icon: “Audrey Hepburn was effortless and the epitome of glamorous, elegant, and cool.” On the moment she feels most beautiful: “Any time I’m on a beach somewhere, like Turks and Caicos, with the sun shining on me—wearing sunscreen, of course.”
On how to not use bronzer: “[Dixie] puts on my red lipstick and kisses my face so she can see her lip prints. She also likes taking my bronzer and brushing it all over her face until she’s superbrown.” On the scents she loves for herself and her home: “Wonderlust is a beautiful floral with some wood that’s perfect for summer. And the Byredo Burning Rose candle is amazing—I use it all over my house.”
Aldridge’s skin and hair essentials: Ouai Hair Oil, La Mer The Eye Balm Intense (“It’s so luxurious!“), and Oribe Masque for Beautiful Color.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (LIPSTICK)
On faking a good eight hours of sleep: “Undereye patches are genius. From traveling, I get really puffy under my eyes. Klorane Smoothing and Relaxing Patches are a great ten-minute trick to look refreshed. They’re perfect for moms running on no sleep.”
H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N
Snip Decısıons Summer is dead (we know; we’re so sorry), and after umpteen hours in the sun, your hair probably is, too. Hairstylist Chris McMillan of the Chris McMillan Salon in Beverly Hills goes in to remove the damage—revealing fresh new styles in the process. By Chloe Metzger These pages: Hair, Chris McMillan of the Chris McMillan Salon; makeup, Valery Gherman. Fashion stylist: Sue Choi. PHOTOGRAPHED BY EMMAN MONTALVAN
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H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N
BEFORE Above, on Mari Kubani: Cotton top by Fabiana Pigna. Right: Leather top by L’Agence. Polyester top by Brashy. Silver earrings by Tacori. Makeup colors: Big Brow Pencil in Spiked and Lipstick in Bombshell by M.A.C. Details, see Shopping Guide.
A SHORT(ER) CUT
Hair this cropped can veer into G.I. Jane territory if it isn’t balanced with the gamine. “A wash of apricot blonde gives the style some femininity and keeps it from looking severe,” says McMillan. “I loved the golden tones in Mari’s original hair color, so we just amped up the lightness to really contrast with her dark brows.” The result: a soft, modern pixie with androgynous appeal. Mix light-hold hair spray and a drop of hair oil between your hands and rake it through the hair for subtle definition, suggests McMillan. 58 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N
“An A-line bob with bangs is a good way to get rid of that beachy lob that’s been growing out all summer,” says McMillan. And even though the new style ends above the shoulders, it behaves much like a longer one. “You can still pull it back without a thousand bobby pins,” he notes. The blunt cut does require some effort, since thick hair can pouf and fine hair tends to deflate. For the former scenario, use a leave-in conditioner and pull the ends downward with a paddle brush as you blow-dry. The fine-haired can blow-dry upside down, then run a flatiron over the bangs to keep them from curling under. Above, on Emma Riskin: Polyamide viscose top by H&M. Left: Rayonblend top by American Apparel. Silk dress by BreeLayne. Earrings by Jennifer Fisher. Makeup colors: Perversion Fine Point Pen and Naked Lipgloss in Liar by Urban Decay. Details, see Shopping Guide.
60 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N
BEFORE Above, on Milan Dixon: Cupro dress by Meshit. Right: Cotton jumpsuit and cotton wool top by Pari Desai. Earrings by Misha Gill. Makeup colors: Healthy Skin Blends in Sunkissed and MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Almond Nude by Neutrogena. Details, see Shopping Guide.
BIG, HEALTHY CURLS
Curls are passionate about their autonomy, at least according to McMillan: “Don’t try to tame them—just shape them a little.” He first brushed out the model’s curls before snipping off the damaged ends in dry, one-inch sections. “Even a small trim can give natural hair a completely new look, and this circular shape feels cleaner for fall,” he says. 62 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
H A I R I N S P I R AT I O N
No, we’re not suggesting you cut bangs like mutton chops (though hey, more power to you), but we do like the idea of layers—thick ones, and lots of them. “Sharp, geometric lines are really popular right now in clothing, and hair is starting to reflect that,” says McMillan, who recommends cutting “long, blunt layers that start at your jaw” to make this trend unintimidating and something you’d actually wear. “The layers will be long enough to slick back into a bun, but short enough to fake sideswept bangs,” he says.
Above, on Elaine Carlin: Cotton top by Fabiana Pigna. Left: Patent-leather dress by BreeLayne. Cotton wool top by Pari Desai. Earrings by Jennifer Fisher. Gen Nude Matte Liquid Lipcolor in Friendship by BareMinerals. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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BY SOPHIA PANYCH
T H E T I P S, T H E S H O RTC U T S, A N D A L L T H E ST E P - BY- ST E P S Louis Vuitton Fall 2016
THE 1-2-3: VAMP LIPS
“I always begin by prepping the lips so that the surface is smooth,” says McGrath. She buffs them with a warm washcloth (a baby toothbrush also works) and taps on a balm.
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At Louis Vuitton, McGrath mixed cherry-red and darkpurple lipsticks, painted on the mixture with a brush, blotted with a tissue—and kept brushing and blotting to make the color as intense as possible.
“A dark lip needs fresh skin, otherwise it can be aging,” says McGrath, who suggests patting on concealer to take down any redness but skipping powder and heavy foundation.
KEVIN TACHMAN/TRUNK ARCHIVE
When going for lips this rich, makeup artist Pat McGrath never uses just one color. There’s a process to creating the strangely beautiful effect.
BEAUT Y SCHOOL
THE HEART OF DARKNESS Backstage, makeup artists got creative with their ingredients.
M.A.C. Lip Pencil in Nightmoth and Casual Colour Lip & Cheek Colour in Blind Score
Marni Fall 2016
Very Berry. To create the “very intense and very matte” lip look at Marni, makeup artist Tom Pecheux went unorthodox. He started by pressing a sheer burgundy cream blush on the lips, then colored over that with a wine lip pencil.
Dior Fall 2016 Dior eyeliner in Black, lipstick in Poison, and lip gloss in Bulle
PARTY IN THE BACK A classic nude manicure gets a little wild and frisky with a bright rainbow surprise on the underside. STEP 1: Grow out your nails. They’ll need to be at least a quarter inch past the tips of your fingers for this manicure. (This might be the time to get down with acrylics.) STEP 2: Use a striping brush—the one that has long, pointy bristles— to paint the underside of your nails without making a mess. “Stick to brights or metallics,” says manicurist Madeline Poole, who created this look. “You need some flash.” STEP 3: Paint the top of your nails with an opaque nude. “Anything sheer will let the colors underneath show through,” says Poole.
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
Blackened Cherry. Eyeliner was the secret to the “dangerous-looking shade,” says Dior makeup artist Peter Philips. He filled in the lips with black pencil and followed with creamy purple lipstick and a clear gloss to intensify the color.
BEAUT Y SCHOOL CoverGirl Plumpify Mascara
DOE EYES You’ve mastered mascara. Maybe you’ve even played around with some individual clusters of falsies. The time has come, young Jedi, to use the Force on your lashes. Stack two strips of fake lashes. We’re not joking: These are high-stakes lashes, people. Now glue them together. While they dry, trace your upper lash line with pencil eyeliner, as McGrath did at Anna Sui (left). If you aren’t so good at lashes, the eyeliner can act as a base and make it so you don’t see the gap between the strip and your own lashes. Curl your lashes and sweep on a coat of volumizing mascara. Now place your stacked creation. Be sure to line up the falsies with the outer corner of your eye, and wait at least five minutes for all the glue to dry.
COLD COMFORT These potions are the cardigans and thermals of your skin-care wardrobe— layer them correctly and you’re in for one very cozy and glow-y season.
Sunscreen is your final step, even on gray days. This one is lightweight enough to layer over other products. As a rule, oils can penetrate creams, but not vice versa. Add to dry spots as needed.
Start with an essence— the thinnest product—to moisturize and prep skin for all other ingredients.
Follow with a serum that treats your primary skin concern. This peptide formula firms and smooths.
A rich cream seals in all that good stuff and helps plump up fine lines.
Everyone can benefit from vitamin C; it brightens, protects, and promotes collagen production.
LET ME TELL YOU “I use avocado oil to take off my fake lashes. I’ll just put it on my fingertips and rub it around. I try to be gentle with my eyes, so I don’t like to pull off lashes— I think it also pulls off my own. I sleep in avocado oil, too. It helps with the laugh lines and just nourishes my eyes.” —Khloé Kardashian La Tourangelle Avocado Oil
Clockwise from top: SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Serum, Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester Serum, L’Oréal Paris RevitaLift Triple Power Deep-Acting Moisturizer, Rodin Olio Lusso Lavender Absolute Luxury Face Oil, and EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: IMAXTREE; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)
Anna Sui Fall 2016
THE MAKEUP PRO
By Jillian Dempsey
You’d be surprised how many people think being a makeup artist means graphic eyes and ombré lips. But more often than not, my job entails making the skin look flawless in every way. Nobody (I mean it) has perfect skin. That’s why it’s key to know how to fake it— whether you’re on set or on your way to work.
Look for a solid, yellow-based concealer (yellow tones down redness) in a pot, like Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer, or a palette, like Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage or Revlon ColorStay Concealer. Pro/me tip: Always go a half shade darker than your skin tone—anything lighter will highlight the pimple. Now treat the spot like it’s a tiny surgery: Carefully draw concealer around the edge with a clean brush and a steady hand, blend it toward the center, and don’t kill the patient. Then dip a cotton swab in finishing powder (I love the Colorescience Mineral Corrector Palette), and press it gently on top. Yes, it’s old-school, but layering powder on top of cream really does keep it from slipping throughout the day.
YOUR UNDEREYE BAGS ARE MORE LIKE WEEKEND TOTES.
OK, there’s no magic wand for bags. But there are ice packs. And concealer. And patience. Wrap an ice cube in a cloth napkin, hold it under each eye for five minutes, then gently tap, tap, tap on the bags to break up the puff. And whatever you do, do not cake concealer on the bag unless you want to draw the world’s attention to it. Instead, take a brightening concealer, like Charlotte Tilbury The Retoucher or Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Dark Circle Eraser, and dab it right into that crease below the bag to make the area look flatter. If the bag’s still noticeable, blend matte taupe shadow over the lids and under the lower lashes to create some depth.
YOUR FOUNDATION HAS A WAY OF SAYING, “HI! LOOK AT ME! I’M YOUR FOUNDATION!”
If this is the case, I’m going to bet you’re not buffing it in thoroughly enough. Maybe it shouldn’t be that simple, but it really is. I prep the face with hyaluronic acid (I love Dr. Barbara Sturm Super Anti-Aging Serum) to smooth the surface. Then I pat on a thin layer of a lightweight foundation, like Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation, Clinique Chubby in the Nude stick, or L’Oréal Paris True Match, and use Marc Jacobs Beauty The Face III Buffing Foundation Brush to buff it out, moving in small circles across the T-zone, forehead, and cheeks. Also, hi, please don’t forget that you have a neck. A ghost-white neck is a dead giveaway that you’re wearing foundation! So blend the formula well under your jaw, and if need be dust some bronzer on your neck to warm it up.
COURTESY OF SUBJECT (DEMPSEY); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)
YOU’VE GOT “SPOTS” (THE BRITISH TERM REALLY SOUNDS SO MUCH NICER).
Use a peachy cream blush (like M.A.C. Casual Color in Keep It Loose, below) to re-create Zoey Deutch’s luminous Met Gala look.
FROM TOP: DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
LOOK WE LOVE
Royal Flush Two things that will make you look like a queen: 1) A diadem. It just never hurts. 2) Makeup tinged with peach and gold. Actress Zoey Deutch’s rosy-orange lips, apricot cheeks, and pink-andgold-flecked lids are striking but not overdone. “Peach tones add freshness on every skin tone,” says makeup artist Tyron Machhausen, who was inspired by the regal glows of Pre-Raphaelite women when he created this look. All hail. —MEGAN DEEM
T H E B E AU T Y N E W S YO U N E E D T O K N O W N O W
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BE AUT Y REPORTER Chanel Powder Blush in Rouge Profond. There’s sweet, pinchedcheeks blush...and then there’s the naughty, vixenish flush you’ll get from this brick red. $45.
L’Oréal Paris Pure-Clay Masks. A clay is a clay is a clay? Not even close. Each of these varieties has its own endgame: exfoliating, mattifying, and brightening. $12.99 each.
EDITORS’ FAVORITES THE STUFF WE PLAN TO STEAL FROM THE BEAUTY CLOSET WHEN NO ONE’S WATCHING.
Maybelline New York Master Precise Curvy. The yogi of liquid liners has a superbendy tip that contorts itself to create both fine lines and thick flicks. $7.99.
Jason Wu for Caudalie Beauty Elixir. We didn’t think this skin-softening facial mist could get cult-ier—then we saw it draped in the dentelle lace of designer Jason Wu’s recent collection. $49.
Belif Peat Miracle Revital Serum Concentrate. That mossy stuff beloved by gardeners is rich in antioxidants and organic acids. In this light serum, it helps you smooth lines and soften dry patches— without getting your hands dirty. $60.
Tom Ford Velvet Orchid Solid Perfume. Meet the first compact that can improve your sex life. The silky balm inside scents pulse points with a carnal mix of rum and rose. $190.
BE AUT Y REPORTER
To pull off dark and brooding, you have to be a Brontë antihero. Or a fragrance. The best new scents are deep and complex, with moody notes and lingering trails. Not unlike Mr. Rochester himself. —LIANA SCHAFFNER
Giorgio Armani Sì Eau de Parfum Intense. Lush rose and creamy vanilla wrap around a sharp and spiky pine note, adding the perfect amount of edge. Calvin Klein Deep Euphoria. White pepper and a slosh of mandarin add warmth and brightness to a heady rose-andjasmine bouquet.
B.Balenciaga Intense (out next month). The vibrant, unexpected blend of green tea, blueberry, and edamame (trust us, it works) segues into a sensual cedar note.
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Burberry My Burberry Black. The tranquil, transparent original discovers new depths with candied rose, peach nectar, and a sexy amber-and-patchouli base.
ily James is a veteran time traveler. The 27-year-old actress has touched down in post-Edwardian Yorkshire (Downton Abbey), Russia during the French invasion (War & Peace), and an agrarian fairy-tale village (Cinderella). One of her favorite modes of transportation: perfume. “Scent is so evocative; I wear a different one for every character I play,” she says. She misted herself in the freesia of My Burberry eau de toilette (she’s the face of the fragrance) for her current role as a Brooklyn skate rat. Nah, just kidding. She’s in a play at the Garrick Theatre in London— she’s playing Shakespeare’s Juliet. —LEXI NOVAK
Strongest scent connection: “My mom’s perfume, First [by Van Cleef & Arpels]. The smell and shape of the bottle are so vivid in my memory.” Favorite nonperfume scent: “A wood fire. I also love the smell of damp London.” The trick to a full day in a corset: “Loosen up when you’re eating, otherwise it’s a whole world of pain.” The only pain she’s willing to self-inflict: “Pinch and tap your cheeks to rouge them.” The product women of the Downton era were really missing out on: “A Tangle Teezer.” How not to overshare: “Kate Somerville does this amazing sun cream that’s shimmery [Body Glow Sunscreen]. I like that because my boyfriend can’t use it—usually he just takes my expensive sunscreen and pours it all over his body. ‘Hello, not that one!’ ” A new take on Revelations: “My eyebrows used to be one hair thick, and Rufus Norris, the director of the National Theatre in London, told me to grow them out. It was a revelation.” Glass slippers or Birkenstocks? “Glass slippers.” Cat eyes or smoky eyes? “Cat.” Countryside or city? “Can I have both?” Lilies or peonies? “Peonies. Controversial.”
FROM TOP: LIA TOBY/WENN; LIAM GOODMAN
Elizabeth and James Nirvana Rose. With rose, geranium, and vetiver, this perfume is romantic and maybe a little melancholy. Just the thing for tugging at heartstrings.
BE AUT Y REPORTER
BEST IN CLASS
(Lip) markers? Check. (Nail) stickers? Got ’em. (Eyelash-curling) USB? Done. We’ve stocked the ultimate pencil kit for students of impeccable grooming.
Much of the art on the walls of the salon is for sale.
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Design your kicks to match your nails.
Soh Art + Beauty
n a city of indoor ski slopes and 3,000foot spires, subtlety is not a thing. At the Dubai salon Soh Art + Beauty, that lavishness translates to personalized, intricate design—painted on not just nails but phones, sneakers, bags, you name it. On my recent visit, five Birkins awaited their turn. “Anything that comes through our doors can be a canvas,” says owner Sally Soheili. The crisp white decor is accented by Soheili’s collection of Japanese Kubrick toys, and the waiting area doesn’t just have magazines—there are also Nintendo games and a fleet of hoverboards. Even the nail treatments have a fantasy element, like the pedicure that includes mermaid-tail booties. “This is a community where women can let go, get inspired, and listen to crazy hip-hop songs,” Soheili says of the salon, where men can’t cross the threshold. “We’re a bit of a wonderland.” With no understatement in sight. —SHYEMA AZAM The Galleria Mall, Dubai (soh.ae). Kellys and Birkins get the custom treatment.
FROM TOP: LIAM GOODMAN; COURTESY OF SOH ART + BEAUTY (3)
Beauty products, clockwise from top left: Beautyblender Original and Micro Mini; Milk Makeup Eye Marker; Formula X The Colors Nail Polish in Dainty; Benefit Pencil Sharpener; Cricket Co. Shear Xpressions in Hey Rosie; Lash Star Beauty Heated Lash Styler; Too Faced Sketch Marker in Papaya Peach, Canary Yellow, Deep Navy, Candy Pink, and Deep Lilac; Milk Makeup Lip Marker in TKO; and #OOTD Nail Stickers in Hollywood Valley Girl. Clare V. leather clutch. Details, see Shopping Guide.
BE AUT Y REPORTER THE HAIR MOMENT
PLAYING IT SMOOTH
There’s post-shower slicked-back hair. And then there’s post-swan-dive-into-an-infinity-pool-in-Cap-d’Antibes slicked-back hair. This is the latter: sexy, glamorous, and begging for a black-tie party. —JESSICA CHIA
Left: Kendall Jenner’s sleek Cannes look is the product of Osmo Clay Wax, Ouai Soft Hair Spray, and a boar-bristle brush. Above: A high-shine topknot on Emily Ratajkowski in New York City.
Stylists used hair spray— and a lot of it—to create shellacked looks on Elle Fanning at the Met Gala (left) and Gigi Hadid during Paris fashion week (above).
L A S H A D VA N C E S
Easy Dials 2
Good news, control freaks! You now have three new enablers: mascaras so tricked out you can adjust the look of your eyelashes to your heart’s (overzealous) desire. —CHLOE METZGER
M.A.C. Instacurl Lash. You can calibrate the bend of this brush, taking it from straight to curved to fit your exact eye shape and ensure every lash is coated with the rich black formula.
ST THE TO T WI P
RM E ORE B ND
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Flower Zoom-in Ultimate Mascara. The dial on the wand lets you reposition the bristles for more length (1), more volume (2), or more curl (3).
Clinique Lash Power Flutter-to-Full Mascara. Turn the barrel to adjust the wiper inside—that’s the thing that determines how much mascara winds up on the brush... and how pumped up your lashes will look.
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
BE AUT Y REPORTER Remember w h e n we a l l g o t excited about those deodorant balms? The kind you had to scoop out and rub on your armpits with your fingers? No? Not so much? Well, in case you missed that thrill, here’s a second (much more pleasant) chance to dig into a beauty trend. The new cleansing balms are basically the love children of a really powerful moisturizer (like cocoa butter) and a makeup remover. Thick as all get-out, they melt into rich oils as you massage them over your dry face, then rinse away with water and a soft towel (some even come with a fancy muslin cloth). The only thing left behind: moisture that makes your skin feel even more hydrated than cleansing oils do. Our tester’s flaky patches disappeared after two uses. If you ask us, that’s worth getting your hands a little dirty.
SESSION W OB
in t l e
1. Goop by Juice Beauty Luminous Melting Cleanser 2. Yves Saint Laurent Melting Balm-in-Oil 3. Beautycounter Nourishing Cleansing Balm
COLOR OF THE MOMENT
First there were the morning-glory-colored face oils. Then the deluge of cerulean lipsticks. And by the time we found the face mask that matched our favorite jeans—let’s just say we’re way into azure’s defiant invasion of Beautyland. To mix a metaphor: This blue streak is on fire. —JESSICA CHIA
1. Herbivore Botanicals Facial Oil 2. NYX Cosmetics Liquid Suede Cream Lipstick in Little Denim Dress 3. Givenchy nail polish in Heroic Blue 4. Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge Crème lipstick in Midnight Blue 5. Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge Crème lipstick in Turquoise Blue 6. Milk Makeup Cooling Water 7. May Lindstrom Beauty Balm Concentrate 8. Herbivore Botanicals Resurfacing Clarity Mask 9. Maybelline New York Color Sensational The Loaded Bolds in Midnight Blue 10. Tatcha Indigo Body Butter 11. Sunday Riley Sleeping Night Oil
FROM TOP: LIAM GOODMAN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
BE AUT Y REPORTER
THE FULL EFFECT
Two new volume-makers create a lot of lift without even a little crunch. The only challenge is figuring out which one to use when. We’re here to help.
ON DRY HAIR… Living Proof Full Dry Volume Blast. This stuff uses hollow polymer spheres to create more space between each and every hair. In practical terms: A few blasts from root to tip made our testers’ limp midday curls and second-day waves look shockingly full, without any chalky residue. And the volume lasted for two days (through two sweaty Spin-class buns).
ON WET HAIR… Bed Head by Tigi Big Head Volume Boosting Foam. Three pumps of this light foam (plus blow-drying with a large round brush) gave one tester’s straight hair the body of a Victoria’s Secret Angel—the kind happening above her shoulders, that is. One pump (plus finger-zhuzhing) added the perfect roughed-up texture to another’s loose waves. If the volume gets to be too much, mist your hair with water and start over. —CHLOE METZGER
B E AU T Y E Q UAT I O N . . .
For a Night Out The math is simple: A graphic gold hairpin, silky makeup basics, and a sparkling citrus scent equal a very pretty party look (and fit in your Edie Parker clutch).
What it is: A sheer liquid foundation with skin-care benefits Key ingredients: Glycerin (moisturizes); longoza extract (anti-ager) How it looks/feels: Under the top level of the compact, which houses a thin makeup sponge, lives a foundation-soaked pad. The formula inside is light and matte. Why we like it: Sometimes you don’t want serious coverage or a dewy are-you-glowing-or-sweating finish to your makeup. Sometimes you just want your face to look like a face. (Except, you know, a better version of it.) This formula leaves behind a nearly undetectable veil of color that also smooths and brightens your skin over time. It also provides a nice extra dose of UV protection (SPF 50) on top of your sunscreen. Our testers did have one gripe, though: The darkest of the four shades works only for olive complexions. More, please! —C. M.
Donna Karan Cashmere Aura Julep Glam It Up four-piece makeup kit Jen Atkin x Chloe + Isabel hairpin
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BRUNO POINSARD/TRUNK ARCHIVE; LIAM GOODMAN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3); LIAM GOODMAN (2)
HEAD TO HEAD
Dior Dreamskin Perfect Skin Cushion
BE AUT Y REPORTER
“I LOVE TO COLLABORATE with artists, like Guy Bourdin and Steven Klein, who don’t have any boundaries. We build these collections from scratch.” Left: From the Guy Bourdin collection, 2013.
“KATE MOSS MAKES YOU DREAM. She has such a passion for art and the creative process.” Below: Nars and Moss backstage circa 1997.
“I LIKE BEAUTY TO BE A BIT EDGY, not typical. For me, the only rule is looking good.” Right: An ad campaign from 2014.
“I WAS SPOILED growing up in the 1970s because magazines were publishing the photographs of Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin without compromise. You really felt that sense of freedom through their images.” Above: Nars on set in 2010. “THE SUPERMODELS, like Linda, had such a distinct presence. We were a family—we practically lived together when we did the shows.” Above: Linda Evangelista backstage circa 1995.
t’s easy to forget that Nars has a first name (it’s François—look left). The company Nars has soared to such heights that it often eclipses the makeup artist behind it. But Nars’s career, like his vision, has always been touched by the surreal—and the ironic. His empire has evolved from the 12 lipsticks he created in 1994 in an office “the size of a bathroom.” A few years later, he aroused unprecedented excitement over an innocent-looking blush called Orgasm. And a best-seller is a concealer inspired by Lauren Hutton, who, he says, always hated concealer. There’s a reason Nars’s approach tends to be roundabout or even contradictory. An accomplished photographer who shoots his own ad campaigns, Nars lives behind the camera and behind the scenes. He considers all the angles. Then considers them again. His aim is to discover beauty—not take credit for it. His new book, François Nars (Rizzoli, below), looks back at his career with photos and quotes from the models, designers, artists, and family members who have influenced him since his childhood in the south of France— when he was just a kid named François. —LIANA SCHAFFNER
THE GREATEST HITS (clockwise from top): The Multiple in Copacabana, Lipstick in Heat Wave and Funny Face (2 of the 12 originals), Radiant Creamy Concealers, and Blush in Orgasm.
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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: LIAM GOODMAN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; © NARS COSMETICS (5)
BE AUT Y REPORTER
C U LT O B J E C T
The days of going to the apothecary for a tincture pretty much ended when people stopped saying “apothecary” and “tincture.” But the idea of a custom formula hasn’t lost its wholesome appeal. Kiehl’s Apothecary Preparations revive that tradition. You go to a store (the kind with an actual door), get a consultation (with an actual human), identify your biggest skin-care issues, and walk out with two targeted formulas that you mix into an oil-based serum at home. The result: an effective product with an indulgent side— sort of like an old-fashioned chocolate phosphate. Google it. —LIANA SCHAFFNER
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Kiehl’s Apothecary Preparations, $95 for a serum and two tubes, at select Kiehl’s stores.
AT YOUR SERVICE
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW STINSON
Great Strides Take a jolt of a dress, add a pair of knee-grazing boots, and show some leg. What do you get? One of the sexiest— and easiest—looks of the season. —AMBER ANGELLE
Left, on Angelica Guillen: Dress, boots, and earrings by Marni. Right, on Erika Lago: Dresses, sleeves, boots, and earrings by Marni. Hair: Cash Lawless. Makeup: Junko Kioka. Manicure: Tatyana Molot. Fashion editor: Rachael Wang. Details, see Shopping Guide.
SEPTEMBER 2016 ALLURE 95
NOTES: EDITOR’S OBSESSIONS “A pick with bling.” Eternally in Amber hair pick, $15.50 (eternallyin amber.com).
“I love anything pink.” J.Crew fauxfur coat, $395 (jcrew.com).
Hot Stuff Allure accessories director Nicole Chapoteau is embracing the spirit of ’70s disco.
“These make my curls more defined.” Camille Rose Naturals Conditioning Custard, $12, and Curl Enhancing Conditioner, $14 (camillerose naturals.com).
“I’m drawn to playful accessories.” Delfina Delettrez ruby-and-peridot ring, $2,430, at Dover Street Market, N.Y.C. (646-837-7750). Gucci Fall 2016 “So glam with a pair of vintage jeans.” Balenciaga leather boots, $1,135 for similar styles, at Balenciaga, N.Y.C. (212-206-0872).
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“A cross-body bag with swingy tassels—perfect when I’m on the dance floor.” Alessandra Rich python bag, $1,750 (office@ alessandrarich.com).
COURTESY OF J.CREW (COAT); JEREMY ALLEN (CHAPOTEAU); YANNIS VLAMOS/VOGUERUNWAY.COM (RUNWAY); LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)
“It has a high slit that elongates my legs.” Rochas sequined skirt, $4,050 (moda operandi.com).
NOTES: EDITOR’S OBSESSIONS “Reminiscent of the iconic Gloria Steinem in the early years of her activism.” Gucci sunglasses, $350, at Gucci stores.
Power Surge “Few things make me feel as powerful as a well-cut suit.” Ann Taylor wool cotton jacket, $189, and pants, $109, at Ann Taylor, N.Y.C. (212922-3621).
Allure’s fashion director, Rachael Wang, is inspired by the new look of feminism.
“This balances structure with romance—and I’m a total sucker for Victorian collars.” Alix nylonblend bodysuit, $298 (neta-porter.com).
“Soaks right in and smells amazing.” Herbivore Botanicals Orchid Facial Oil, $64 (herbivore botanicals.com).
Balenciaga Fall 2016
“A brow game changer.” Glossier Boy Brow in Brown, $16 (glossier.com).
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“Everything you could possibly want in a shoe: versatility, style, and comfort.” Tibi leather shoes, $525 (tibi.com).
COURTESY OF SUBJECT (WANG); MONICA FEUDI/VOGUERUNWAY.COM (RUNWAY); COURTESY OF NEEDLE + THRAED (CHOKER); LIAM GOODMAN (STILL LIFES)
“A ’90s classic, perfect in its simplicity.” Needle + Thraed beaded leather choker, $215 (shopspring.com).
“Spacious and sunny.” Céline leather bag, $3,400, at Céline, N.Y.C. (212-5353703).
NOTES: EXTRAS Dries Van Noten velvet shoes, $1,400, at Blake, Chicago (312202-0047).
Dolce & Gabbana leather shoes, $3,545, at select Dolce & Gabbana stores.
Christian Louboutin suede-andleather shoes, $995 (christian louboutin.com).
Miu Miu satin shoes, $990, at select Miu Miu stores.
Roger Vivier velvet shoes, $2,450, at Roger Vivier, N.Y.C. (212-861-5371).
Our favorite new jewelry: Romantic heels sprinkled with crystals and wrapped in pearls.
J. W. Anderson leather shoes, $2,125 (j-w-anderson.com).
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Gucci suede shoes, $1,750, at select Gucci stores.
Camera bags are back—with a hit of color and a dose of irony. 1
1. Dior wool-blend coat, $4,400, at Dior stores. Kenzo calf-hair bag, $860 (kenzo.com). Chanel tweed bag, $2,100, at Chanel stores. Dolce & Gabbana Lucite bag, $1,745, at select Dolce & Gabbana stores. Dior leather bag, by special order (800-929-DIOR). 2. Chanel fall 2016. 3. Kenzo fall 2016. 4. Dior fall 2016.
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FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE. MANICURE: TATYANA MOLOT.
N O T E S : C U LT O B J E C T
A miniature diary. An ominous black rose. A smattering of shooting stars. Prada’s new choker is filled with unexpected treasures—and each tells a story that only the wearer knows. —AMBER ANGELLE Prada necklace, $935, and charms, $310 to $605, at select Prada stores.
1 PIECE, 3 WAYS “I like to wear things that give me some shape, otherwise I end up looking too boxy,” says Myla Dalbesio. To show off her hourglass frame, the Brooklyn-based model took a fitted Jason Wu sweaterdress and turned it into a layering piece, wearing it under, over, and all on its own. Wool silk dress by Jason Wu, $1,295, at Saks Fifth Avenue stores. By Patty Adams Martinez
“It’s really stretchy and comfortable. I don’t like to wear anything constricting when I go out—so I can dance.” Suede shoes by Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Earrings by Laruicci. Gold rings by Maya Brenner and Efva Attling. These pages: Hair, Claudio Belizario; makeup, Tracy Alfajora. Fashion stylist: Zara Mirkin. Details, see Shopping Guide. PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN RAYNER
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NOTES: ELEMENTS OF STYLE
“The skirt laces up like a corset, so putting it over a dress is sexy without being too revealing.”
JEANS: “Rag & Bone has high-waisted jeans that are superstretchy and fit really well in the butt.” SNEAKERS: “Adidas.” SHOPPING SITES: “Theoutnet.com and vestiairecollective.com.” BAG: “Chanel. I just splurged on a classic black quilted one.” FRAGRANCE: “CB I Hate Perfume At the Beach 1966.” JEWELRY: “I like to wear pieces with meaning, like my mom’s and grandfather’s wedding rings. On days I need motivation, I wear a necklace that says ‘Hustle.’ ” FLEA-MARKET FIND: “A Disney sweater that reads ‘Mickey’s Vacation’ across the top.”
“You can easily change the neckline of a dress by adding a blouse underneath.” Above: Triacetate skirt by DKNY. Necklace by Laruicci. Right: Shearling jacket by Coach 1941. Silk top by Claudia Li. Leather shoes by Tibi. Swarovski-crystal earring by Erickson Beamon. Gold-and-diamond ring by Aurate New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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MIRROR, RORRIM Your reflection used to be so straightforward. But now, one tap of your finger can make you look 20 years younger. Two can transform you into a puppy dog. And experts say all this is fundamentally changing the way we see ourselves. By Lexi Novak
STICK A MIRROR IN FRONT OF US AND IT’S A LOVE STORY WAITING TO HAPPEN. 118 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
ave you ever passed a mirror and not looked? Even for a split second? Neither have we. Whether it’s a furtive side-eye glance or a full-frontal suck-in-and-flex (if we’re going to be honest here), we look. But there are worse things in the world than vanity. (Say, thermonuclear war or speaking in acronyms.) Also: It’s not entirely our fault. We’re hardwired to be a bit vain. “We’re visual creatures— sight is so important to how we interpret the world around us—and faces are especially important cues,” says Nina Jablonski, a professor of anthropology at Penn State University and the author of Skin: A Natural History (University of California Press). “We’re genetically programmed to care about looking at them.” Stick a mirror in front of us and it’s a love story waiting to happen. The first mirrors showed up around the fifteenth century B.C. And they brought with them the human species’s next level of self-awareness. Egyptians started dyeing their hair with cow’s blood (hey man, desperate times) and laid out one of the world’s first anti-aging routines. (Instructions for making one of the first serums were found in a medical text called Incantation of Transforming an Old Man Into a Youth.) They were even buried with their mirrors. Photography was widely introduced in 1839, which meant people could physically hold and scrutinize their own image—and look for ways to make it better. As a direct result, makeup lost its stigma. Less than a century earlier, in England, a husband could annul his marriage if he believed his wife had ensnared him with “scents, paints, [and] cosmetic washes,” Kathy Peiss writes in Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture (University of Pennsylvania Press).
Smart mirrors and augmented-reality apps let you view yourself in a whole new light. Consider yourself warned.
OUR PHONES COME WITH APPS TO BLUR, FILTER, AND SMOOTH THE HUMAN RIGHT OFF OUR FACES. Now we’ve arrived at a place in which our technology has outpaced our vanity. A new generation of mirrors have Wi-Fi connections and voiceactivated controls that make you look lit by Patrick Demarchelier. They show you what you’d look like with Botox or a little filler. They let you virtually try on false lashes and dark-purple lipstick. They fit in your pocket. Our phones have become our compact mirrors. They come with apps to blur, filter, and smooth the human right off our faces. With a swipe, we can see ourselves with chiseled cheekbones, doe eyes, and skin so flawless it’s unsettling. Hell, we can shoot rainbows out of our mouths. Reality is facing its stiffest competition yet: augmented reality, right there in your bag. Our own selfies are staring back at us with (and maybe we’re projecting here) judge-y perfection. And seeing how perfect we could (never) look doesn’t necessarily feel so great. “These portraits are personas to be lived up to or surpassed, which can put pressure on individuals who are not necessarily equipped to deal with it,” says Jablonski. And who is? Some of us are going to break. Not all of us, and not even most, but enough that mental-health professionals are already predicting the next wave of image disorders. For 120 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
the majority of us under the bell curve, though, an addiction to our reflection means more time with screens, less with the actual world. “When your time budget is devoted to looking at yourself, it’s difficult to do important things,” says Jablonski, delicately stating the obvious. To be fair, death by duck face (or chicken arm, or fish gape) isn’t a thing. Snapping our reflections to edit and share is supposed to be fun. And, like water parks or Tinder, it’s probably best when enjoyed judiciously. After all, we still need time to “gain intellectual skills, contribute to the world, learn,” and, Jablonski stresses, “reflect.” We’re going to assume she means without a mirror. —ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY JOAN KRON
ModiFace. If you want to see how you’d look with Kylie Jenner’s haircut or burgundy smoky eyes, this app will get you there. It’s one of the most flawless executions of augmented reality that we’ve seen, which makes it one of the most fun to use. You can try on hot orange-red lipstick, and on Modiface Live, you can talk, pucker, or jump up and down without it going anywhere. Sephora even has its first ModiFace mirror for trying on makeup in its Milan store. Plus, the app’s lighting is up there with flickering candles in terms of flattering-ness. Simplehuman Sensor Mirror Pro. This smart mirror mimics sunlight with special LED bulbs. It also comes with an app for tweaking its lighting, so you can see whether your smoky eyes are smoky enough to show up in a dark bar, or at a romantically dim restaurant, or... YouCam Perfect. You can zhuzh your selfie by whitening your teeth, adding lipstick, or deshining your T-zone. Or you can more than zhuzh it by sucking in cheekbones, erasing undereye bags, and even turning a smirk into a smile. Very creepy-cool.
You might see this ModiFace technology at your dermatologist’s office soon. It can show you what you’d look like after, say, using retinol for six months or getting a filler.
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF SIMPLEHUMAN; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
The Simplehuman Sensor Mirror Pro syncs to your phone to re-create lighting from your pictures.
Darkness Invisible They’re not called age spots because they make you look younger. Here’s how to get rid of every last one. By Elizabeth Siegel
HOME RUNS There are a zillion creams that claim to brighten skin—but just a handful of ingredients that actually deliver results.
In your 20s and 30s, start using a serum with licorice, soy, and/or vitamin C to prevent excess pigment that’s already under your skin from surfacing and to take down new spots. Try Aveeno Positively Radiant Intensive Night Cream with unfermented soy, which is the most effective form of the ingredient, says Jeannette Graf, a dermatologist in New York City.
If you’re not already using dermatologist-favorite retinol to smooth lines, start incorporating it into your routine to lighten dark spots— it’s pretty brilliant at that, too. RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Night Cream won’t cause redness or peeling.
Without religious sunscreen use, this is all an exercise in futility. The sun’s UV rays trigger new pigment production—and so do visible light and infrared light, mounting research suggests. Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Multi-Rejuvenating Cream SPF 30 protects against all three types of radiation.
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Zero: The odds any skin brightener will work if you don’t protect yourself from the sun.
There’s currently a big fat question mark surrounding hydroquinone, a skin lightener that’s been around longer than Zendaya and Taylor Swift have been alive, combined. What we know for sure: It fades dark spots faster than anything else (prescription-strength versions work in as little as eight weeks). Also fact: It’s banned in Europe, and the FDA is reviewing its safety. Studies have shown it may act as a carcinogen when ingested by rats. What we don’t know: What that means for us. Hydroquinone’s safety for non-rats (who aren’t eating it) hasn’t been definitively proven or disproven.
Most dermatologists feel it’s safe— with caveats: “You can’t use it if you’re pregnant, and you should always use the smallest amount for the least amount of time possible,” says Jill Weinstein, a dermatologist in Chicago. Prescription azelaic acid is considered safe to use during pregnancy: “It can fade dark spots in four to six months,” says Weinstein.
To treat stubborn discoloration, antioxidant ellagic acid “fades spots on all skin tones and has been shown to lighten as well as prescription hydroquinone when paired with salicylic acid,” says Vivian Bucay, a dermatologist in San Antonio. SkinCeuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector contains both acids.
NEWS, TREATMENTS, AND OUR LATEST
OBSESSIONS FROM ABROAD
SCENTS OF PLACE
An abundance of May roses in Grasse, France
You’ll find the world’s finest perfumes (and most abundant flower fields) in a place that’s stuck in the past—centuries in the past. By Liana Schaffner
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT
The terraced landscape of Grasse
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A pile of May roses harvested by Chanel for its new fragrance No. 5 L’Eau. Above: Examining the fields.
Time Is of the Essence
Grasse is surrounded by hectares and hectares of lavender and May rose—one of the most finicky perfume ingredients. The pale-pink flower blooms for only three weeks in late spring. Once it’s picked, the extraction process must begin within two hours. Otherwise, the flower’s fragrance molecules disperse into the air, and its scent is lost for good.
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
veryone in Grasse insists this soggy weather won’t last, including the man who sells umbrellas. I wonder whether I should buy one. He shrugs and frowns in that distinctly French way, a gesture that could imply anything, and so really implies nothing. The weak drizzle strengthens into fog; rings of mist girdle steeples and medieval towers. I feel as though I’ve arrived at the top of a beanstalk, not on the French Riviera. But because I am in this supposedly sun-drenched region, a mere 30 minutes from Cannes, I pass on the umbrella and buy a slab of hand-milled soap instead. It has a pleasant, trustworthy weight. I try to distinguish its scent from the general atmosphere, which smells of rose, jasmine, and lavender. The invisible bouquet climbs narrow alleys and eases around corners, as pliant as shadow. This, at least, does last. Grasse is the capital of the fragrance industry, a title it’s maintained since the seventeenth century. The town’s connection to scent is so solid that perfume takes tangible form here. There’s the sprawling Musée International de la Parfumerie with its manicured botanical gardens, as well as famous distilleries, such as Fragonard, which is housed in a splendid villa. But stroll through Grasse’s needle-eye passages and you’ll stumble on smaller, more modest perfumeries, each selling its own brand of seduction. Pastel soaps, lacy sachets, and pink and amber perfume bottles brighten storefronts. Visually, the effect is as delectable as a patisserie—and visitors often confuse the two. One perfumery has a sign out front: “No ice cream. No sandwich. No soda in the shop.” Unlike its resort-town neighbors—Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Antibes—Grasse lacks glamour. It doesn’t have the flash of a yacht’s prow, the clink of a high-stakes casino. The deficit of spas and five-star hotels means celebrities would never flock here for a film festival. Tourists (they’re the ones sniffing the air) stroll at a meandering pace. There’s no need to rush in a place where time stands still—or slowly unravels. The buildings have chipped ochre facades and crooked blue window shutters. Laundry lines zigzag
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT
The L’Eau Down
There are five versions of Chanel No. 5 (fitting, no?) that are bottled in Grasse. The newest, Chanel No. 5 L’Eau (out this month), is the lightest and brightest of them all.
What’s new: “I wanted to tell the story of Chanel No. 5 in a more contemporary way,” says perfumer Olivier Polge. The floral bouquet now has lucid green notes, a prominent slosh of citrus, and vibrant cedar to “leave an impression of freshness.” L’Eau also contains rose, jasmine, ylangylang, and the aldehydes that first put No. 5 on the map.
Why now: After producing major hits for other brands, Polge has come “home” to Chanel, where his father was the head perfumer for 35 years. His clear vision and respect for tradition equal one exciting scent. “For me, fragrance connects the heart and the brain,” he says. 128 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
overhead while cobblestone streets bend and curve, testing your equilibrium and your tendons. There’s a plaintive irony here, disguised as charm. In the wide-open Place de l’Évêché, rowdy boys kick around a soccer ball with a scatter of rose petals at their feet. The great Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy, a solemn Romanesque structure, looms above the square. Near the fountain in the café-lined Place aux Aires, a truck arrives and unloads discarded flowers. Women rush over and gather exultant armfuls. I consider joining the melee but hold back, wary of sharp thorns and sharper elbows. When the crowd disperses, trampled leaves release a spiky, snapped-stem freshness. The fog lowers to street level, and everything it touches feels washed and renewed. The next day, sunshine peeks valiantly through, and I set out for rural Grasse. I visit the Chanel flower fields, where the raw materials for the brand’s scents, such as the May rose, are grown. The same family has cultivated this land for five generations; heritage is as abundant as the harvest. I meet with Olivier Polge, the house’s perfumer, who is the son of its previous perfumer. Polge is preparing to launch his latest fragrance: a reinterpretation of Chanel No. 5, arguably the world’s most iconic scent. The new formulation (Chanel No. 5 L’Eau) is free of nostalgia. It’s a breath of air, a soft and dreamy mix of May rose, cedar, and citrus. The trail is vibrant, green, uplifting. I ask Polge how he managed to create something that is so fresh but not at all thin or vapid. “I’m guided by instinct, but these fields give the scent meaning,” he says, indicating the rolling acres of pink roses behind us. “I can appreciate the ingredients, where they come from, who harvested them. That keeps me grounded. We have a saying in France: ‘Always put the church in the center of the village.’ ” And it occurs to me that this breed of newness is nothing new. It springs from something deep and eternal. Polge has sought to express this alchemy in perfume— and it’s evident wherever sun follows rain.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: @SINCERELYJULES/INSTAGRAM; BRUNO WERZINSKI (3)
Below and near right: Different ways of exploring the flower fields. Far right: The fragrance itself.
Hold up on the tweezers and sideline the wax. Unwanted hair is about to be...wanted. By Molly Young
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or beyond: “I think you gotta let ladies have what they want to have.” This includes the Victoria’s Secret model Taylor Hill, who got mocked as a kid for the Eugene Levy–esque eyebrows that are now her trademark, and Rihanna, who teased her “Kiss It Better” video on Instagram with a glamour shot featuring a Frida Kahlo–style unibrow. Leave it to Rihanna to elevate “long hair don’t care” to new levels of badness. Meaning goodness.
a downy tuft? Or puts down the tweezers for a month? We’ve habituated ourselves to an aesthetic of hairlessness—one that started in porn, reached its mainstream zenith (or nadir?) when Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan stopped wearing underwear, and continues to this day with Kim Kardashian, at least according to her most recent nude shoot. But the aesthetic is shifting, and the shift is, well, sort of exciting.
THE AESTHETIC IS SHIFTING, AND THE SHIFT IS, WELL, EXCITING. Like most innovations in beauty (and the world), the hair-forward moment is cyclical. Sophia Loren wore her armpit hair unshorn during some of her most babely years. Same with Lisa Bonet, Julia Roberts, and Drew Barrymore. Once you remind yourself that hair is (doy) natural—and once you calculate the hours and money spent removing it, often with lacerating pain—it starts to seem weird that hair-positive moments are so rare. Why, in other words, is it still a visual shock when a celebrity lifts her arm and reveals
This doesn’t mean we all have to grow mustaches. It just means that the door has opened to a pluralism of approaches to hair. And why shouldn’t there be? After all, there are so many parts of our bodies where hair can sprout, and there are so many things we can do with it: pluck it, shave it, pour molten wax on it, thread it, gel it down, tease it up, dye it, zap it with lasers like we’re engaged in intergalactic warfare. Or—summon your Idina Menzel voice now—let it groooooow.
DANIEL JACKSON/ART + COMMERCE
he models at a Valentino show a few months ago marched down the runway in ultrafeminine tulle frocks, floor-sweeping velvet gowns, and very little makeup anywhere, with one key exception: eyebrows. Bold, thick, visible-at-50-yards eyebrows. Eyebrows that were less facial feature and more full-blown accessory. Surprisingly, it’s no surprise. We are living, it seems, in an age of statement hair—not the hair on your head, but the hair everywhere else. In 2016, we celebrate Cara Delevingne’s pinkie-width eyebrows the way we once celebrated Lara Stone’s gap teeth or Miley’s careermaking pixie cut. (And speaking of Miley, have you seen her armpits? Sometimes she grows out the hair there and dyes it neon pink. That’s a thing, too.) As with any trend, the underarmhair trend started with the cool popular girls—a category that is distinct from the merely cool girls and the merely popular girls. The cool-popular overlap is the land of Miley, Jemima Kirke, and Grimes, all of whom have dabbled in underarm fluff. And possibly other areas of fluff, too, if they’re like actress Jenny Slate, who went on Anna Faris’s podcast and cheerfully announced that “I want to be able to have a full bush if I feel like that’s what’s up.” On that same podcast, Slate articulated her belief that every woman should decide for herself what the optimal hair situation is, be it underarm or bikini
DIET What would happen if you could only eat food so pretty, so photogenic, that it had to be documented on social media? By Molly Young
A bony wrist gripping an iced coffee. A tousled-haired beauty smiling over a veggie platter topped with organic fixings that subtly pick up the hues of her lemon silk Erika Cavallini top. Matcha lattes in Crayola green. Avocado toast with a side of Céline sunglasses. Perfect manicures curled around cones of honey-lavender gelato. Salads of glistening citrus and microgreens (geotag: Tulum). This is the food of Instagram. You’ve seen these images sprinkled throughout the accounts of those whom people in corporate marketing call influencers. I’m not talking about accounts devoted specifically to food but about accounts that combine fashion and travel and cute dogs into a lifestyle. I’m talking about food as a prop, food that serves the same purpose as a potted fiddleleaf fig tree, a Miu Miu bag, or a Cartier Love bracelet. Food that communicates something about how the Instagrammer lives: beautifully, expensively, effortlessly. I am fascinated by Instagram food precisely because it bears no relation to the eating habits of any actual person on planet Earth. Sure, we occasionally nibble on photogenic items—artisanal pickles, meticulously crafted salads, Japanese candy—but mostly we survive on handfuls of Pirate’s Booty and baby carrots and oatmeal and brownies. We eat these things at our desks, or standing over the sink, or in the glow of a laptop watching The Good Wife.
HANNAH WHITAKER (STYLIST: HEATHER GREENE)
SOCIAL EXPERIMENT Macarons for breakfast, of course
Who are these Instagram women who subsist on pale-green smoothies, Ladurée macarons, açai bowls, and multicolored grain bowls? How do they do it? And can I be one of them?
o find out, Allure and I conspired on a challenge. For one week, I’d follow the Instagram Diet. There would be three rules: 1) I must photograph all of my food. 2) I can eat only foods that warrant an Instagram post. 3) I am not allowed to eat ugly foods. The first thing I learn is that eating photogenically doesn’t come cheap. A single macaron at Ladurée may cost $2.80, but you can’t photograph a single macaron—that would be like photographing a lone painted nail instead of the full manicure. On the first morning of my Instagram diet, I buy six macarons and spend my first 23 minutes at work rearranging them on my desk with pincer-like delicacy. My boss registers my activity, possibly with disapproval, but says nothing. The office’s ceiling-high windows offer a
and spend $12 on a collard wrap. I dutifully take a photo. I look at the photo. The fleshy blur of my finger is visible in one corner of the photo. I delete and try again. This time I notice a crumb on the table. And my hand is casting a shadow. Does that water glass need to be in the frame? It doesn’t add anything. And is that the roasted eggplant’s best angle? Delete, delete, delete. Meanwhile, all of the café’s seats are taken, and a couple is waiting anxiously with their food, scanning the room for free seats. I have spent 15 minutes styling my wrap without taking a bite. The female half of the couple gives me a pleading look. The male half shoots me a glance of venomous disgust. They are not wrong to despise me. By the time I finish arranging my food, I kind of despise myself. Plus, I’ve lost the will (and time) to eat it. No wonder Instagram girls are so skinny. By day three, I’m getting the hang of it. A few discoveries: Nobody posts pics of soup on Instagram, because all soup looks like body fluid when you photograph it. Hummus is an uphill battle. Ditto scrambled eggs, unless you cover them with caviar (and I’m quickly going broke). Most meats look repulsive, so I’ve been 90
Does this Japanese sponge cake make my cheekbones look chiseled?
THIS LIGHT IS MADE FOR MACARON PHOTOGRAPHY.
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percent vegetarian. On day four, I stop at Dominique Ansel Bakery in SoHo—did I mention I live in New York City? This plays to my advantage sheerly by virtue of the fact that my options are limitless. I wait 30 minutes in line to buy three cronuts. (This month’s flavor: “Brown Sugar Rhubarb With Lemon Thyme Sugar!”) I have one for breakfast and the other two for lunch, with a gallon of coffee. By 1 P.M., I feel like a dishrag—squeezed and spent, simultaneously starving and stuffed. I snap at a coworker, then dart into the office stairwell to prevent myself from committing other blood-sugar-induced errors of comportment. I want a bowl of lightly steamed vegetables so badly I could punch a wall.
Key lime ice cream with graham cracker crumble
I don’t even like purple cabbage.
panoramic view of lower Manhattan, but all I can think is: This light is made for macaron photography. Midmorning, someone offers me a Girl Scout cookie, and I bite into it, suddenly remember that I’m supposed to take a picture, relocate to a light-filled nook, place the bitten cookie on a sheet of colored paper, take some photos, and then finish eating. To make up for the wasted morning, I work through lunch. By dinner, I’m cranky with hunger. Normally I would eat an apple to tide myself over, but nobody wants to see a picture of my normcore apple. So I walk to a low-key vegan takeout place
I drink smoothies only if they match my furniture.
Threw out the first four because they were ugly
Please don’t hurt me.
Toasted bagel with honey and PB
I am Homer Simpson.
Only because of the photogenic packaging
Chia pudding tastes like paste.
Looks like heaven, tastes like hell
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For dinner, I head to a friend’s house. The friend is a former professional skateboarder turned screenwriter who happens to be a talented (and artful) cook. He serves bowls of homemade ceviche festooned with avocado, purple cabbage, and sliced cucumbers. Protein! And vegetables! In an aesthetically pleasing format! I’m so grateful I could weep. By Friday, I’ve realized that my diet is lacking in restaurant food, and I commit to eating the bulk of my meals outside of the house. While waiting for my breakfast—a bowl of mango and dragon fruit with mint and carob seeds—I watch a waitress deliver dishes to the quartet of women sitting next to me. As if on cue, all four whip out their phones. They nudge their bowls and position their spoons at precise angles and lift their devices far overhead to achieve the tablescape that will elicit maximum double-tappage. When my food comes, they’re still at it. I take only one photo, almost in protest. Later, I click on the restaurant’s geotag to find the photos taken by my neighbors. One of them has more than 500 likes. The image looks artfully disheveled, but I know it is “effortless” only in the way that tousled beach waves or French women are “effortless,” which is to say it’s not. Effortlessness is a lie that we tell the world in order to seem cooler (#wokeuplikethis). I know this on a primal level because the photos I’ve taken over the course of the week with a genuine lack of effort— hurried photos snapped when I was late to a meeting or too hungry to fastidiously curate my meal—turned out dreadful. The wrong light makes matcha look like pond scum. A cookie parked diagonally on a paper towel next to my laptop looks like something you’d find at a sad motel buffet. These are the foods we actually eat—they are not the foods that prompt anyone to “like.” The Instagram Diet was never about weight loss—even though by the end of my week, I have lost exactly one pound. I attribute this to two factors: First, the hurdle of photographing every meal means I’ve snacked less; and second, I’ve walked an average of 4.69 miles per day going from restaurant to café to matcha bar in search of perfect lighting. I have also spent more than a hundred dollars on vegan cinnamon buns, elaborate patisserie, and salads of spring peas with mascarpone and prosciutto. I have bored my coworkers and irritated my friends. But on the upside, I have 12 new followers on Instagram.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (PROP STYLIST: MICHELE FARO)
Welcome to fall, where our happy place is full of vampy plums, gentle nudes, baby-doll pinks... oh, we could go on. (And we will.)
She may still be every teenage boy’s dream, but Jessica Alba has matured into an ambitious businesswoman with an eye for profit and an ethical soul. BY DAVID DENICOLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILL DAVIDSON Enthusiasm is infectious, unstoppable, a primal force of nature. Kind of like malaria. Those of us born with a natural immunity to it are called pessimists—or journalists. (The terms are pretty much interchangeable.) We are adept at spotting the canker in the rose, to paraphrase Shakespeare, and truth be told, we strain to see it even when it’s not there. That is why I feel sorry for any journalist who has to profile Jessica Alba, an actress of uncommon beauty who has become an extraordinarily successful and savvy businesswoman. Her enthusiasm is genuine, her success is earned, and her disarming smile and sweet demeanor make you ashamed of all the mean questions you wanted to ask. Launched in 2012, Alba’s Honest Company (she is a cofounder and
the chief creative officer) has grown into a robust online subscription business that markets a whole host of household and beauty products positioned as safe and mostly naturally derived. Honest was valued by Fortune this year at $1.7 billion, making it a real live unicorn, a term generally reserved for start-ups valued at $1 billion or higher. (Though “real” and “live” are probably not the best modifiers of “unicorn.”) Recent history shows that those hypothetical billions can evaporate into bankruptcy as fast as you can say “dot-com bubble.” But Alba’s business seems robust: Aside from its loyal online following, Honest works with powerhouse retailers, such as Ulta Beauty (for beauty), Target, Costco, Nordstrom, and Whole Foods, to name a few.
Wool-blend sweater by A DĂŠtacher. Bikini top by Marysia. Goldand-silver earrings and silver bracelet by Konstantino. Earrings, Albaâ€™s own. Makeup colors: Truly Lush Mascara + Lash Primer and Truly Kissable Lip Crayon in Honey Kiss by Honest Beauty. These pages: Hair, Davy Newkirk; makeup, Ozzy Salvatierra; manicure, Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Evan Jourden. Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Silk coat by The Row. Wool-blend dress by Pringle of Scotland. Earrings by H&M. Details, see Shopping Guide.
lba is perfectly composed and ladylike, sipping a glass of rosé in the plush restaurant of the New York Edition hotel on Madison Square in New York City. I am sweating like a pig (actually, pigs don’t sweat much, which is why they wallow in the mud to cool off, but I digress), having sprinted across town, knocking over several members of the clergy, pregnant women, and gawking tourists along the way, only to arrive 15 minutes late. (I’m sorry about the clergymen and pregnant women; the tourists had it coming.) Noticing my, um, glandular condition, Alba takes pity: “Is the fireplace hot for you? Why don’t you sit here?” she says, gesturing to her own place. She is gracious and tries not to stare at my sorry, drippy state. Though why a big gas fireplace, the mantel of which can
Resurrection, costarring Jason Statham. If this is the part where your eyes begin to glaze over, I completely understand. It sometimes seems as if every actress or reality-TV oddity or millennial with more than 1,000 Instagram followers has a lifestyle brand. Alba is aware of the saturation. I wonder aloud whether she’s ever considered that if she didn’t have the background she has in such a looks-based profession, if she weren’t as beautiful and glamorous, her passion for natural products wouldn’t translate so readily: “Are people buying into your lifestyle because of who you are, not what you make?” “I think it’s a double-edged sword,” she says without betraying the slightest annoyance at the question. “It also makes people skeptical when they see
“[Fame] is a double-edged sword,” she says. “It also makes people skeptical when they see a celebrity attached.” only be described as faux baronial, is blazing away on a sultry summer evening is anyone’s guess. I think about this as I try to formulate a relevant question for her about the direct relationship between luxury and carbon footprint—so glaringly obvious at that very moment—and try to will myself to stop sweating, which of course has the opposite effect. My mind wanders to those stories about Richard Nixon cranking up the AC in the White House as the world closed in on him so he could gaze into a roaring fire for solace. I do not bring this up. We’re not here for my free associations but to talk about Alba’s new ventures: a line of hair-care products under the Honest Beauty umbrella, new palettes of makeup colors, a jeans collection in collaboration with DL1961, and oh, yes, an action movie, Mechanic:
a celebrity attached. Sometimes it makes you interested, but sometimes it could be really bad: Are they just doing it for money? Is this just an endorsement? The products have to be great. Yes, I have a platform because of what I do, and I have access to media in ways that other people don’t, so I can spread the word. [Customers] may be interested because of that and try [the products]. But you can’t convert people because they’re interested. What’s going to convert them is [realizing], ‘Oh, my God, this is amazing.’ I get messages all the time about our products. We change people’s lives.” She proudly tells the story of a woman who sent her a message on Instagram saying: My daughter
suffered from really bad eczema. She’s six years old, and it made her feel bad about herself. We switched over to your laundry detergent and your shampoo, and now she walks around like a normal kid. All her rash has gone away. “That changed a six-year-old’s life,” says Alba with obvious pride, “and that’s real.” I am genuinely interested in Alba’s business experience and how this 35-year-old actress with no college education and no formal business training has built such a powerful enterprise. And I gradually realize that my initial notions are pretty much completely wrong. Misconception number one: Alba is a dilettante who breezes in from time to time to sprinkle fairy dust about the office and isn’t really involved in product development or day-to-day operations. Reality: “When you’re a founder of a company, there’s really nothing going on that you’re not part of…so when it comes to the design of the site, the display ads, our marketing strategy, I’m part of all those discussions and involved in all those creative assets.” Misconception number two: She slaps her label on preexisting products from eco-friendly manufacturers and markets them. Reality: “We don’t own our own factories. We find best-in-class manufacturers, and then I go work with their chemists to create our formulas, or we make our formulas in-house. It’s a very rigorous process of quality assurance and quality control. We have a sourcing department. We have a productdevelopment and R&D department— those are the chemists. And then the product-development creative is on my side. So I say, ‘It needs to feel like this; it needs to smell like this; it needs to perform like that; it should be delivered in this type of package.’ And then I work with the creativemarketing team. It takes about 18 months to make it and to test it. And then I work with my retail team and the online team so the product feels exactly the same online as it does [on a shelf].” Misconception number three: Alba is an environmental absolutist who thinks all chemicals are evil. Reality: “Everything is a chemical. Water is a chemical. I’m not against chemicals. I care about human health, and I want whatever is safest and healthiest. Some people can have very extreme points of view. I created
the Honest Company because I’m not extreme. I couldn’t identify with people who wanted to do everything completely 100 percent from nature. I don’t have a garden growing my own organic fruits and vegetables. I don’t have an organic farm where I’m raising my own livestock. That’s not my reality. So I want the best options that work for me without me feeling like I want to compromise on health or safety. Honest is about that happy medium, and not extreme.” More sanity: She has had her two daughters, Honor, eight, and Haven, five, vaccinated. She firmly believes in modern medicine and all the benefits it affords. At work she surrounds herself with experts and, she says, is learning every day how to translate her formidable instinct about what products people want into a solid business practice. She believes that even when a beauty line, for instance, is aspirational, it still needs to be attainable. Put another way, she is very sensitive to price and doesn’t think a “foundation has to cost $75 to be good.” Sometimes a person inadvertently tells you something about herself, something completely off the cuff, that goes to the core of what inspires her, what drives her, what gets her out of bed and into her stilettos. It’s the non-BS answer that she’s not necessarily supposed to reveal, but in a moment of honesty, she does. As a journalist, it’s your job to sniff it out (with varying degrees of success). On the rare occasion, and with the rare celebrity who decides to drop her guard, the results can be particularly refreshing. And that is exactly what Alba did near the end of our time together. I had finally stopped dripping, and it was in response to a question about what motivates her. “A, I’m a hustler. B, I’ve been working since I was, like, 12. I’ve lived all over the world; I’ve worked all over the world with adults and seen all these different dynamics. I’ve been part of a lot of businesses’ marketing strategies, and I see how they utilize someone like me. I love learning. I’m a sponge. I haven’t lost my thirst and desire to learn. Every day is different, and I’m working toward something that I feel really good about. So it’s supergratifying.” Hustle. Work freaking hard. Be endlessly curious. Be grateful. Be satisfied. And do it all again. It’s a recipe for happiness that even the most sour-eyed pessimist has to (perhaps grudgingly) admire. 146
Wool coat by Polo Ralph Lauren. Wool top and shorts by Blumarine. Earrings by A Peace Treaty. Makeup colors: Brow Filler in Warm Auburn and Truly Kissable Lip Crayon in Sheer Blossom Kiss by Honest Beauty. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Cashmere coat by Calvin Klein Collection. Silk slip by Marc Jacobs. Earrings by Leigh Miller. Details, see Shopping Guide.
As a child “I was 11. I remember that shirt; I was really excited about it. I used to curl my hair, obviously. I used a lot of hair spray. I used to be super-self-conscious about my crooked teeth and my crooked smile and my chubby cheeks. And now I’m like, Oh, I was so cute. But why did I put so much hair spray in my hair?”
2002 With Romeo Miller on the set of Honey in Toronto “That’s Lil’ Romeo. He’s very cute. The hair is really special. I wore individual extensions for Honey. I look like I had spaghetti tendrils/hair!”
2003 At the Latin Grammy Awards in Miami “I actually bought that dress. That was the first time I wore Narciso Rodriguez, and now he’s one of my best friends. I remember feeling selfconscious because it felt very tight.”
Alba knows what women want in their makeup bags because she knows what she wants: products that do what they say, beautiful colors, safe ingredients, and a reasonable price tag. It’s hard to argue with that message—or the bountiful charm of the messenger. What’s the first thing you do at your sink in the morning? “Brush my teeth.”
What has been your most surprising— happily surprising— beauty discovery? “I’ve felt more beautiful as I’ve gotten older.”
2006 With John C. Reilly and Will Ferrell at the MTV Movie Awards in Culver City, California “I hosted the MTV Movie Awards all by myself. The whole thing, by myself. And they didn’t even give me my lines until the afternoon before we did it.”
2007 With Kate Hudson at the Dior fall 2007 show in Versailles, France “She grew up with my husband; they’ve known each other since they were little kids. She’s the best, so fun.”
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.
2008 Photographed by Michael Thompson in Allure “Oh, my God! I forgot about that! I was pregnant, but they were hiding it. That’s why my boobs are so big. I love comedy. That’s why I started acting. I wanted to make people laugh.”
2009 With her husband, Cash Warren, at a basketball game in Los Angeles “Cash’s old business partner is a basketball player who played for the Clippers and Golden State, so we’d go to a lot of the games. It’s so much more fun when you know people who are playing.”
What, if anything, would you change about your hair? “More of it!” Growing up, were you the pretty one in your family? “I think my brother was. And my mom, of course.” Are you envious of any attributes of others? “I always wanted orange freckles and strawberryblonde hair like my mom, but my kids got them instead. Oh, and I’m envious of speed readers and people who can memorize everything they read.” What are your two favorite new products? “Honest Beauty Haircare Truly Effortless Sea Salt Spray and Honest Beauty Daniel Martin Falling for You Makeup Palette.” What will you teach your daughters about beauty? “That being healthy, happy, and confident will always be beautiful.” Favorite spa treatment? “A long deeptissue massage with coconut oil.” Guilty-pleasure food indulgence? “Nachos.”
2014 With Miranda Kerr, Jourdan Dunn, and Solange Knowles at the H&M fall 2014 show in Paris “I love Solange. She’s so dope. She has such great style. And she’s a young mom, which I think is supercool. Actually, we’re all moms!”
Can money buy beauty? “Beauty is confidence and attitude. Nothing can buy that.” Who is your beauty icon? “Every ’90s supermodel.” 149
Fall’s most exciting makeup colors possess nuance—and a whole lot of nerve. Copper shadows glint like a new penny, cheeks flush with carnal intensity, and red (so, so red) lips hit a new level of extravagance. All proof that daring—and a little attitude—is a beautiful thing. By Liana Schaffner Photographed by Jason Kibbler
Crimson Lips There’s a reason this red looks so audaciously… red. Makeup artist Benjamin Puckey layered two shades on our models—concentrating the lighter shade in the center of the mouth—to hit maximum intensity. Left, on Londone Myers: Silk jacket and cloque top by Prada. Rouge Rouge lipstick in Poppy by Shiseido. Right, on Willow Hand: Cotton top and necklace by Prada. Rouge Rouge lipstick in Ruby Copper by Shiseido. These pages: Makeup, Benjamin Puckey; hair, Kevin Ryan; manicure, Maki Nakamoto. Prop stylist: Bette Adams of Mary Howard Studio. Fashion stylist: Patrick Mackie. Details, see Shopping Guide.
A Fresh Approach Fall is the season for layering—and of course we’re talking about pink blush, inky mascara, and radiant highlighters. Clockwise from top: Nars Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Rigel, Maybelline New York The Colossal Spider Effect Mascara in Classic Black, Tom Ford Shimmer Shot in Spin Spin Sugar, Elizabeth Arden Beautiful ColorBold Illuminating Liquid Highlighter, and Marc Jacobs Beauty Air Blush Soft Glow Duo in Lush & Libido.
Cherub Cheeks and Spider Lashes The lashes are brazen; the cheeks are wholesome; the balance is awesome. For the eyes, wiggle a mascara brush at the base of the lashes until theyâ€™re thick and clumpy. Comb through the lengths to keep the tips feathery. Leather-andfox-fur jacket by Marc Jacobs. Makeup colors: The Colossal Spider Effect Mascara in Classic Black and Master Contour Face Contouring Kit in Medium to Deep by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Candlelit Skin This look is so understated that it borders on startling. Highlighter blended on the high points of the face (and nowhere else) emphasizes every curve and contour. On both models: Jacquard tops by Dior. True Match Lumi Powder Glow Illuminator in Rose by Lâ€™OrĂŠal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Shades of Green Eyes Olive and acid green produce one exciting—and seamless—smoky look. Rim the eye in dark-green pencil, then wing matching powder well past the outer corner. Add a stroke of lime on the top and bottom, and dab gold near the tear duct. Jacquard top by Altuzarra. Earrings by Robert Lee Morris Collection. Makeup colors: Color Design Eye Shadow in The Montage and Splurge by Lancôme. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Earthy Delights Take a break from taupe: Copper, bronze, and mossy green are the new neutrals for eyes. From left: Yves Saint Laurent Couture Palette Scandal Collection Eye Shadows, Butter London Glazen Eye Gloss in Bronzed, Giorgio Armani Eccentrico Mascara in Obsidian Black, and L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Pocket Palette Eye Shadow in Boudoir Charme.
Sculpture Class Whether youâ€™re playing with color on your eyes or lips, complement the look with subtle (one more time: subtle), glow-y contouring. From top: Dior Diorblush Light & Contour Sculpting Stick Duo in 001 and Tom Ford Powder in Black Bloom.
Copper-Penny Eyes Thereâ€™s nothing cheap about tons of shimmer when it has this much dimension. Puckey dusted bronze powder all over the lids, then dotted creamy gold highlighter in the center for a fresh, newly minted feel. Python coat by Burberry. Makeup colors: Scandal Collection Eye Shadows and Rouge VoluptĂŠ Shine Lip Colour in 42 by Yves Saint Laurent. Details, see Shopping Guide.
The jawline we covet—taut as a drum, with the sharp angles of a capital V—is easier to get than ever. Elizabeth Siegel reports on the shape of things to come. We’ve all been there: sticking out our chin and pressing our tongue against the roof of our mouth in pictures. Popping the occasional collar. It’s a stubborn problem, that double chin, one that’s un-suck-in-able, un-cover-up-able, and un-Instagram-filter-able. But everyone deals with it eventually. “Your skin begins to thin in your 20s, and then you start losing bone, fat, and muscle in your jaw around age 50—and these changes to your facial structure make your jawline sag like a loose blouse on a wire hanger,” says Jeannette Graf, a dermatologist in New York City, who has no problem telling it like it is. On top of that, your jaw is one of the three areas on your body that “gravity is working against all the time,” says Amy Wechsler, a dermatologist in New York City. (The second and third: boobs.) Until recently, the only procedure that could do a damn thing for jowls was a face-lift. But now there are noninvasive ways to get rid of a paunchy chin. Give her a syringe and a doctor can reshape your jawline. Says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston: “It’s endlessly gratifying.”
THE MUSCLE RELAXER
Cost: It varies, depending on how much lifting you need, but “plan on spending a grand or two,” says Shamban. In better news, the effects can last up to two years.
THE JOWL MELTER
The sun, smoking, genetics—these are the main causes of aging in the jaw and, you know, everywhere else. But there’s also a more surprising source of sagging: “Just as gravity pulls down on your jaw over time, so can a pocket of fat under your chin,” says Graf. “Kybella is an injectable, synthetic form of the fat dissolver deoxycholic acid, which exists naturally in your body.” It breaks down fat cells so they can be flushed out of the body by your circulatory and lymphatic systems. It’ll get rid of a double chin, or what Shamban calls a “jeck,” and as a secondary benefit will tighten tissue, which could help prevent sagging in the long run. “Longer-term results can be excellent, but there’s a period of swelling for one to two weeks, so it’s best to get it in the winter, when you can cover up,” says Hirsch. Cost: $1,000 on average per session; it can take up to six sessions to deliver results.
Cost: Around $700 a pop, with effects that last for at least six months.
THE SKIN TIGHTENER
Radio frequency is an expensive procedure that goes by fancier names, too, like Thermage and EndyMed. It heats up deep layers of skin, causing controlled damage that stimulates new collagen and firms the skin. Some dermatologists start patients in their 30s on it with the goal of mitigating aging down the road. Others swear by it for tightening sagging tissue along the jaw. Many who use it do so in conjunction with fillers, though. “If a face-lift is a home run for lifting the jaw, radio frequency is like getting to second base, and sometimes that’s enough for patients to stop obsessing over that area,” says Wechsler. “But it doesn’t work well for smokers, sun worshippers, or yo-yo dieters, because all those things break down new collagen in the skin.” And sometimes even nonsmoking vampires won’t create enough collagen to be happy with the results: “A concern is it doesn’t work optimally for all patients, and it can be difficult to know who’s going to respond best,” says Hirsch. Cost: From $2,500 to $6,000, depending on the level of treatment a patient needs; the effects can last one to two years.
THE FILLER UP
You probably think of filler as something for wrinkles. You may even have a few cc’s in your wrinkles right now. But in the jaw, dermatologists use filler very differently. Remember how we told you that the jawbone shrinks, contributing to sagging? “We use stiff fillers, like Radiesse and Restylane, to add structure back to the jaw—like using poles to stretch a tennis net taut,” says Ava Shamban, a dermatologist in Los Angeles. “First, I inject the parts of the jaw that are under the chin and ears, where the mandible bone has shrunk. If that’s not enough support to lift the entire jaw, I’ll inject all the way along the jawline.” The main side effect is a small chance of bruising. This approach isn’t for everyone, though: “If you’ve got a lot of laxity, fillers aren’t going to lift your jaw,” says Hirsch. But for the right patient (with mild to moderate sagging, between the age of 40 and the mid-70s), “it’s very effective at lifting and smoothing the jaw in a natural way,” says Ellen Marmur, a dermatologist in New York City, who is wrapping up a yearlong study on the effects of filler in the jaw.
If you’re not a Bravo enthusiast—and that’s cool, you probably do other things, like read books— Google “Bethenny Frankel jawline before and after.” And click, bam, proof that you can go from having a square jaw to one that’s shaped like a V. “You can narrow the lower half of your face a couple of millimeters by relaxing the masseter muscle—the one at the edge of your jaw—with a botulinum toxin, like Botox or Dysport,” says Marmur. It’s especially useful for teeth grinders, whose jaw muscles bulk up over time; relaxing the muscles also relieves chronic headaches caused by grinding. And it’s got one more happy side effect: “When you smile, your skin should move back and naturally crease a little. But if the masseter muscle is too big, it adds resistance that makes the skin wrinkle around your jaw,” says Doris Day, a dermatologist in New York City. “Just relaxing that muscle can smooth the jaw spectacularly.”
A new class of skin-care products is designed to help tighten and lift your jawline.
THE STRING THEORY
A new procedure called the Silhouette InstaLift is not for the squeamish, so consider yourself warned. “You take a self-dissolving surgical-grade thread with a long needle on both ends, make three dots along the jaw and chin, and thread under the skin to tighten it,” says Marmur. That thread has little cones attached to it that hook onto connective tissue right below the dermis (and also dissolve). “You push the skin over it, and you hear them clicking into place, and you get some lift of the jaw and neck,” says Shamban. The effects can last about 6 to 18 3 months. “But there’s a real artistry to doing it, so you’ve
Banila Co. V-V Elastic Dual Patch (1). This sheet mask is shaped like a U and contains hydrolyzed collagen, an ingredient that Graf says helps thicken jiggly skin. But for it to work, “you also have to wear broadspectrum sunscreen every single day, because the sun is the number-one cause of thinning skin,” she says. Dior Capture Totale Light Texture cream (2), Philosophy Uplifting Miracle Worker Moisturizer Booster (3), and Chanel Le Lift V-Flash serum (4) all feature the newest and hottest elasticityboosting ingredient on the market: rye extract. “It gives skin more bounce back,” says cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson. They also contain skin-tightening film formers and ingredients that blur
light, so “they’ll make your jaw feel and look smoother quickly,” says Wilson. got to go to someone who knows what she’s doing,” says Marmur. And some of the dermatologists we spoke with are waiting to be convinced it’s worth it to jump on board.
Cost: $3,000 on average.
Clarins V-Facial Intensive Wrap (5). The caffeine helps debloat a puffy jawline. (Yeah, that’s a real thing, triggered by the same boozy, salty meals that make your under-eyes swell up.) “And if your jaw retains fluid, there isn’t really anywhere for it to go, so it drains slowly,” says Hirsch. This depuffing mask kind of looks like men’s shaving cream when it’s on; you rinse after ten minutes. Clinique Sonic System Massaging Treatment Applicator (6). “You can also depuff for a temporary tightening effect with rollerballs and massage tools that move fluids around,” says Fusco. Power this one up for a DIY lymphatic massage for your jaw.
MAXIMUM VOLUME Supplex jacket by Norma Kamali. LamÃ© Jacquard skirt and cashmere sweater by Chanel. Socks by Wolford. Leather boots by Dr. Martens. Earrings by Dior. These pages: Hair, Peter Gray; makeup, Fulvia Farolfi; manicure, Alicia Torello. Model: Amanda Wellsh. Fashion stylist: Laura Ferrara. Details, see Shopping Guide.
BR ING ON THE NOISE
If brocade were a soundtrack, this version would be spun, scratched, and mashed up with fresh beats of puffer coats and combat boots. PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIAMPAOLO SGURA
DRESS CODE Silk dress by Erdem. Viscose polyamide top by Jill Stuart. Tweed bag by Chanel. Earrings by Louis Vuitton. Details, see Shopping Guide.
MORE IS MORE Wool Jacquard coat by Gucci. Diamond earring by Ana Khouri. Ring by Dries Van Noten. Details, see Shopping Guide.
PLAYING THE BLUES Cashmere sweater, cotton top, and wool-blend pants by Dries Van Noten. Earrings by Fallon and Hilfiger Collection. Details, see Shopping Guide.
ROBE RULES Jacquard coat by Emanuel Ungaro. Viscose jersey top from T by Alexander Wang. Beaded jeans by Faith Connexion. Earrings by Marni. Rings by Louis Vuitton. Details, see Shopping Guide.
GOING GOLD Wool jacket and ring by Dior. Silk top by Roberto Cavalli. Makeup colors: Lash Power Flutter to Full Mascara in Black and Pop Lip Lacquer + Primer in Cream Pop by Clinique. Details, see Shopping Guide.
MIX MASTER Silk top and embroidered velvet skirt by Rochas. Earrings by Marni. Details, see Shopping Guide.
MILITARY MIGHT Cotton silk coat and Jacquard dress by Burberry. Rings by Baumgarten Di Marco and Hilfiger Collection. Details, see Shopping Guide.
ITâ€™S A LONG STORY Velvet-and-fur jacket and brocade skirt and bag by Miu Miu. Embroidered jersey top by Peter Pilotto. Earrings by J. W. Anderson. Details, see Shopping Guide.
PUFFED UP Denim coat by Stella McCartney. Cloque dress and belt by Prada. Earring by Charlotte Chesnais. Makeup colors: Diorshow Brow Chalk in Soft Brown and Rouge Dior lipstick in GrĂ¨ge 1947 by Dior. Details, see Shopping Guide.
SHOPPING GUIDE Cover: Stella McCartney satin-and-lace dress, $4,135. Stella McCartney, N.Y.C. 212-255-1556. Jennifer Meyer gold-and-sapphire earrings, $4,300. Ylang23.com. Ariana Boussard-Reifel bracelets, $285 to $550. Marteau.co. Table of Contents, page 10: Isabel Marant ramie silk top, $460. Isabel Marant, San Francisco. 415-781-0113. Eddie Borgo earrings, $225. Eddieborgo .com. Cover Look, page 34: Stella McCartney satin-and-lace dress, $4,135. Stella McCartney, N.Y.C. 212255-1556. A Peace Treaty earrings, $226. Apeacetreaty.com. Jennifer Meyer gold-and-sapphire earrings, $4,300. Ylang23.com. Ariana Boussard-Reifel bracelets, $285 to $550. Marteau.co. Dualitas silver ring, price available upon request. Dualitas.com. Marysia bikini top, $143. Marysiaswim.com. A Détacher wool-blend sweater, $380. A Détacher, N.Y.C. 212-6253380. Konstantino silver-and-gold earrings, $1,450. Neimanmarcus .com. Page 36: The Row silk coat, The Row, N.Y.C. 212-755-2017. Talking Beauty With Lily Aldridge, page 44: Michael Kors Collection silk top, $995. Select Michael Kors stores. Robert Gellar vintage mesh top, $78. Screaming Mimi’s, N.Y.C. 212-677-6464. Kookie vintage leather pants, $485. Screaming Mimi’s, N.Y.C. 212-677-6464. Nike leather shoes, $80. Nike.com. Wasson Fine silver necklace, $685. Wassonfine.com. Page 46: Michael Kors Collection cashmere sweater, $1,395 for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Marissa Webb silk dress, $545. Marissa-webb .com. Page 48: Jill Stuart silk top, $298. Jill Stuart, N.Y.C. 212-3432300. Michael Kors Collection suede skirt, $2,495 for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Snip Decisions, page 58: Fabiana Pigna cotton top, $250. Fabianapigna.com. L’Agence leather top, $595. L’Agence, Los Angeles. 323-546-0321. Brashy polyester top, $95. Brashy.net. Tacori silver earrings, $390. Tacori .com. Page 60: H&M polyamide viscose top, $29.99. H&M stores. American Apparel rayon-blend top, $24. Americanapparel.net. BreeLayne silk dress, $495. Breelayne.com. Jennifer Fisher earrings, $285. Jenniferfisher jewelry.com. Page 62: Meshit Cupro dress, $140. Sincerely, Tommy, Brooklyn, 718-484-8484. Pari Desai cotton jumpsuit, $485, and cotton wool top, $245. Paridesai.com. Misha Gill earrings, $100. Mishagill.com. Page 66: Fabiana Pigna cotton top, $300. Fabianapigna.com. Pari Desai cotton wool top, $295. Paridesai .com. BreeLayne patent-leather dress, $1,575. Breelayne.com. Jennifer Fisher earrings, $485. Jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Beauty Reporter, page 82: Clare V. leather clutch, $235. Clarev.com. Great Strides, page 95: Marni cottonand-silk dress, $2,600. Marni stores. Marni leather boots, $450. Modaoperandi.com. Marni earrings, $450. Maryam Nassir Zadeh, N.Y.C.
174 ALLURE SEPTEMBER 2016
212-673-6405. Marni cotton-wooland-silk dress, $3,470, cotton dress, $1,440, and sleeves, $2,600. Marni stores. Marni leather boots, $1,690. Modaoperandi.com. Marni earrings, $570. Fwrd.com. Elements of Style, page 112: Maryam Nassir Zadeh suede shoes, $409. Kickpleat.com. Laruicci earrings, $125. Laruicci.com. Maya Brenner gold ring, $320. Mayabrenner.com. Efva Attling gold ring, price available upon request. Efvaattling.com. Page 114: DKNY triacetate skirt, $598. Select DKNY stores. Laruicci necklace, $155. Laruicci.com. Coach 1941 shearling jacket, $1,995. Select Coach stores. Claudia Li silk top, $450. Claudia-li .com. Tibi leather shoes, $385. Tibi.com. Erickson Beamon Swarovski-crystal earrings, $478. Laura Gambucci, San Diego. 858-551-0214. Aurate New York gold-and-diamond ring, $1,000. Auratenewyork.com. Reason to Smile, page 143: A Détacher wool-blend sweater, $380. A Détacher, N.Y.C. 212-625-3380. Marysia bikini top, $143. Marysiaswim.com. Konstantino gold-and-silver earrings, $1,450, and silver bracelet, $650. Neimanmarcus.com. Page 144: The Row silk coat, The Row, N.Y.C. 212-755-2017. Pringle of Scotland wool-blend dress, $985. Pringle scotland.com. H&M earrings, $5.99. Hm.com. Page 147: Polo Ralph Lauren wool coat, $798 for similar styles. Ralphlauren.com. Blumarine wool top, $575, and shorts, $540. Blumarine.com. A Peace Treaty earrings, $198. Apeacetreaty.com. Page 148: Calvin Klein Collection cashmere coat, $2,575. Calvin Klein, N.Y.C. 212-292-9000. Marc Jacobs silk slip (sold with dress), price available upon request. Marc Jacobs dress. Leigh Miller earrings, $325. Leighmiller.us. Drama Majors, page 151: Prada silk jacket, $2,710, and cloque top, $1,710. Select Prada stores. Prada cotton top, $930, and necklace, price available upon request. Select Prada stores. Page 153: Marc Jacobs leather-and-fox-fur jacket, $4,800. Marc Jacobs stores. Page 154: Dior Jacquard tops, $1,900 to $2,350. Dior stores. Page 155: Altuzarra Jacquard top, $1,495. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Robert Lee Morris Collection earrings, $115. Robertleemorris.com. Page 156: Burberry python coat, $6,500. Burberry.com. Bring on the Noise, page 164: Norma Kamali Supplex jacket, $650. Normakamali.com. Chanel lamé Jacquard skirt, $3,150, and cashmere sweater, price available upon request. 800-5500005. Wolford socks, $29. Wolford stores. Dr. Martens leather boots, $130. Drmartens.com. Dior earrings, $810 for a set of five. Dior stores. Page 165: Erdem silk dress, price available upon request. Erdem.com. Jill Stuart viscose polyamide top, $528. Jill Stuart, N.Y.C. 212-343-2300. Chanel tweed bag, price available upon request. 800-550-0005. Louis Vuitton earrings, $730. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Page 166: Gucci wool Jacquard coat, $14,000. Select
Gucci stores. Ana Khouri diamond earring, $7,500. Barneys New York stores. Dries Van Noten ring, $563. Blake, Chicago. 312-202-0047. Page 167: Dries Van Noten cashmere sweater, $1,419. Neiman Marcus stores. Dries Van Noten cotton top, $492, and wool-blend pants, $991. Barneys New York stores. Fallon earrings, $90 to $100. Fallonjewelry.com. Hilfiger Collection earrings, $190. Tommy Hilfiger, N.Y.C. 212-223-1824. Page 168: Emanuel Ungaro Jacquard coat, $2,895. Barneys New York stores. T by Alexander Wang viscose jersey top, $115. Alexander Wang, N.Y.C. 212-977-9683. Faith Connexion beaded jeans, $1,000. Barneys New York stores. Marni earrings, $660. Marni stores. Louis Vuitton rings, $430 for a set of three. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Page 169: Dior wool jacket, $15,000, and ring, $590. Dior stores. Roberto Cavalli silk top, $1,250. Robertocavalli.com. Page 170: Rochas silk top, $1,280, and embroidered velvet skirt, $12,510. Modaoperandi.com. Marni earrings, $970. Marni stores. Page 171: Burberry cotton silk coat, $2,595, and Jacquard dress, $2,595. Burberry.com. Baumgarten Di Marco ring, $332. The Flat, Hudson, New York. 203-258-2350. Hilfiger Collection rings, $160 each. Tommy Hilfiger, N.Y.C. 212-223-1824. Page 172: Miu Miu velvet-and-fur jacket, $3,880; brocade skirt, $5,020; and brocade bag, $1,970. Select Miu Miu stores. Peter Pilotto embroidered jersey top, price available upon request for similar styles. Peterpilotto.com. J. W. Anderson earrings, $470. J-w-anderson.com. Page 173: Stella McCartney denim coat, $2,395. Stella McCartney, N.Y.C. 212-2551556. Prada cloque dress, $4,990, and belt. $895. Select Prada stores. Charlotte Chesnais earring, $740. Charlottechesnais.fr.
Autobiography, page 176: Sisley Black Rose Precious Face Oil, Kérastase Elixir Ultime Beautifying Oil Masque, Victoria’s Secret Intense eau de parfum, Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Luscious Full Fan Effect mascara, Maybelline New York Color Sensational lipstick in Siren in Scarlet.
PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS Contributors, page 28: James Nelson (Young); Nick Dorey (Puckey); courtesy of Chanel (Polge); Mariano Vivanco (Fenton); Josephine Schiele (makeup). Beauty School, page 70: Jason Lloyd-Evans (backstage at Marni and Dior); Josephine Schiele (still lifes); Madeline Poole (nails). Beauty Reporter, page 84, Playing It Smooth: Foc Kan/Getty Images (Jenner); Michael Stewart/Getty Images (Ratajkowski); Karwai Tang/ Getty Images (Fanning); Edward Berthelot/Getty Images (Hadid). Easy Dials, clockwise from top: Liam Goodman; Cathy Crawford; Liam Goodman; Josephine Schiele; Cathy Crawford; Liam Goodman. Snap Happy, page 104: Andrew Stinson (1); Yannis Vlamos/ voguerunway.com (2, 3); Pablo Latorre/voguerunway.com (4). Scents of Place, page 126, clockwise from top left: Robert Harding/Alamy; Paula Ordovás/ mypeeptoes.com; Bruno Werzinski; Peter Horree/Alamy. Reason to Smile, page 149: Courtesy of subject (circa 1992); Mychal Watts/ Getty Images (2002); Jeffrey Mayer/ Getty Images (2003); Frazer Harrison/Getty Images (2006); Tony Barson Archive/Getty Images (2007); Michael Thompson (2008); Andrew D. Bernstein/Getty Images (2009); Vittorio Zunino Celotto/ Getty Images (2014).
ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2016 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 26, NO. 9. SEPTEMBER 2016 ISSUE. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7771) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Charles H. Townsend, Chairman; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037-0656. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037–0656, call 800-678-1825, or email firstname.lastname@example.org. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email email@example.com or call 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37656, Boone, IA 50037– 0656 or call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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FILLS IN THE BLANKS.
Lima is a spokeswoman for Maybelline New York and Victoriaâ€™s Secret. For details on a few of her favorite products (shown here), see Shopping Guide.