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Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • november 2010 VOL. 3 NO. 2

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

10 Magazine Shop till sunrise at the Dongdaemun Night Market An introduction to Korean fiction The top 3 places to go in Ulsan Pipe dreams: Korea, meet tobacco Plus How well do you know your banchan?

A Good Cup of Coffee

Printed using 100% soy ink.

The Where What and Why of Korean Cafe Culture

10 Korean Side Dishes

Free, unlimited, and delicious, banchan are a cool part of Korean cuisine.

12 Pastry Chef at Amandier

Shot by Sy lv i a k im

Ruben Jan Adrian is Dutch, addicted to pastry, and the pâtissier at the Amandier bakery.

14 The Dongdaemun Night Market

Work while it is yet day, for the night cometh when you’ve got to get your shopping on.

18 Interview with David Spence

Shot by jaso n te a le

With accounting, HR, and other responsibilities at Delta, Mr. Spence stays behind the scenes to keep the planes in the air.

20 Ulsan Travel Tips

It’s not Busan or Gyeongju, but it’s close to both and unfortunately apt to be missed by travelers.

22 Korea Takes a Puff

Robert Neff’s latest history column reveals that the Korean smoking habit is no recent development.

24 Korean Fiction in Translation

There’s plenty of excellent Korean fiction in translation just waiting for you to read.

Shot by K y le B u r to n at Addis Ababa, Seoul

novemBER 2010 vol. 3 No. 2

28 The Republic of Coffee

Read up on how Koreans learned to love the bean, and then find out where Seoul’s best 10 coffee shops are located. By A n d r ay A b r a h a m i a n and Jac o b R oy

46 Naked Bar & Grill

62 Traveler’s Bar

Taco specials, ladies' nights, and one sweet vibe make this Itaewon joint worth a visit.

This new Bundang bar provides foreigners with a home away from home.

48 Sketch and the City

64 One Day in Wonju

Mike Stewart’s art club encourages painters to get artsy on the streets of Seoul.

Find out the must-see spots in this Gangwon Province city.

68 Birding in Busan Visit Eulsukdo Migratory Bird Park in Busan for a glimpse of migrating swans, geese, and ducks.

56 Thanksgiving Eats Read this when that turkey craving starts to take control.

Red Army Chorus and Dance Ensemble Concert in Hanam, Gyeonggi-do. p. 62



Welcome to Korea, Visitors for Korea’s G-20 Summit!

his is a momentous occasion for those of us living here in Korea, and we’re honored to have you join us. Being that our magazine is in 8,000 Seoul hotel rooms, I couldn’t resist a little shout to all of the politicians, journalists, businessmen and protesters. We’re happy you’ve all decided to join us here. Korea is a fun and exciting place as you’re going to find out very soon. Before you do, allow me to give you some tips: First, some general tips: • Koreans are relatively apolitical political people (except for that 60-year NorthSouth war thing). They don’t really want to discuss politics. Stick to talking about how much you love kimchi (even if you don’t). They’ll love you for it. • Koreans have become much better at English, but they still have some challenges. Add vowels to the end of many consonant-ending words to be understood. For instance, when telling a taxi driver to turn right, say “righ-teu!” and they’ll get it. For you members of the press: • Interviewing Koreans can be a challenge. They’re not just camera-shy, they’re generally camera-phobic. Except the protesters. They’ll be easy. • Be sure to make the Friday Night Happy Hour at the Foreign Correspondents Club. W1,000 domestic draft beers! Bring your foreign press credentials for entry. For you businessmen: • More business gets done over a few drinks than in meeting rooms. Make friends with Koreans first and business gets done much more easily. For you protesters: • Wow, we’re impressed - you came all this way on your own dime for the betterment of mankind. Please keep in mind that’s why the G-20 think they are here too, although you may disagree. • Peaceful protests are welcome, but please don’t break stuff or make people late for work. Koreans already have the longest workdays in the world. You can sympathize with that, can’t you? • Korean’s favorite liquor, soju, is not good for Molotov cocktails. The alcohol content is too low. Actually, none of the liquor in Korea is. Better to avoid them all together. • Korean SWAT teams are total badass. Short, but very badass. For you politicians: • Look out your hotel window. See all those skyscrapers? They were all built in the last 25 years, as was the high-speed rail system, subway lines 3 - 10 and that gorgeous airport you flew into. Keep that in mind while preparing those speeches. • Make the entire world happy by walking away from this summit with real steps to end human trafficking. (Sorry, not a Korea tip, but I couldn’t resist throwing in my two cents when I had the chance.)

CEO Executive Editor Managing Editor Assistant Editor

Sang-tae Kim Jai-yoon Kim Stephen Revere David Carruth

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim

Art Director

Hugh Lee

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Contributors Andray Abrahamian, Tracie Barrett, Michael Berry Adam Boothe, Kyle Burton, Matthew Crompton Samantha Dix-Hill, Aaron Frey Dylan (WelkinLight Photography), Ciaran Hickey Sylvia Kim, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Song Lee Mike Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews Rob McGovern, Joe McPherson Charles Montgomery, Robert Neff, Conor O’Reilly Daniel O’Sullivan, Anna Orzel, Rob Ouwehand Sebastien Rousset, Jacob Roy, Hyeon-seung Ryu Stacey Siebritz, Krista Smith, Grace Sun Julianne Taylor, Jason Teale, Barri Tsavaris Summer Walker, Bryce Weibley, Charity Yoro Gitte Zschoch Imagine a quiet moment with a mug of coffee and the midmorning sunlight streaming through the window—what more could you need? Cover model Grace Sun contemplates the finer things in life as she holds a 10 Magazine coffee mug. The shot was taken at the Itaewon branch of Caffe Bene by photographer Dylan (WelkinLight Photography).

Any questions, you can email me at - as I hope many of our readers will do. S t e p h e n R e v e r e , M anaging E dit o r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 민주주의! [Minju-ju-eui] : Democracy! 국수주의 [Guksu-ju-eui] : Excessive nationalism. Jingoism. “isms” in Korean are “주의.” Democracy is “Minju-ju-eui” (민주주의). The Democratic Party is the (minju-dang) 민주당. Socialism is “Sa-hwae-ju-eui” (사회주의). Vegetarianism is “Chae-shik-ju-eui” (채식주의). And one of the best vegetarian Korean dishes is Kuksu (국수) which means noodles. Many of you residents of Korea will already know that, which will make it very easy to learn the word for excessive nationalism - Guk-su-ju-eui (국수주의). Spelling is the only way in which noodles and jingoism are related, but it’s a great mnemonic device! 4 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine November Vol. 3 No. 2 등록번호 서울 라 12065 (Registration: Seoul Ra 12065) ©10 Media Inc. Address 서울시 용산구 한남동 737-37 1001호 Hannam Building #1001, 737-37 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

CONTRIBUTORS Andray Abrahamian (p. 28) was born in Chicago, grew up just outside London and is half Armenian, so naturally he gravitated to South Korea. He spends a lot of his days trying to pair vegetarian food to beer, campaigning against instant coffee and industrialized food in general and wishing he studied and wrote more. He is ostensibly working on his doctoral dissertation in International Relations at the University of Ulsan. Conor O’Reilly (p. 32) is from “just outside” Dublin in Ireland. When not trying to make a living, he is usually busy writing or finding something to have issues with. A lover of music, oddities, the countryside and a good pint of Guinness, Conor currently lives “just outside” Suwon. You can read more of his writing at Stacey Siebritz (p. 48) was born in South Africa, grew up in the UK and has been teaching in South Korea since 2007. A self-proclaimed foodie, her memoirs will one day probably be called Eat, Eat, Eat. She also enjoys travelling, painting, writing and running, and could chat about movies for longer than you’d care to listen. Read her ramblings at Jason Teale (p. 20) is a camerawielding, coffee-drinking, motorcycle-riding English teacher who is rumored to be from Canada. He has been in and out of Korea since 2003 and has resided in Ulsan for the entire time. He has been a photographer for a number of years now and his work can be found at Gitte Zschoch’s (p. 46) biggest accomplishment in life so far is her 114-pages-long Master’s thesis that she wrote entirely in Korean. When she’s not lamenting back pains from hunching over books and keyboards for too many hours, she is out and about exploring. She currently resides in Tokyo. One Asian language is not enough, you know. 10 Magazine November 2010 | 5

LETTERS In September, we ran a comment contest on our website which led to some unexpected results. The top 10 commenters on all won dinner for two at Bulgogi Bros. restaurant, but in their attempt to win a free dinner, they also spent some time learning about what 10 Magazine online is all about. Here are a few of the reactions we received.

It’s great to be able to pick up a copy of 10 and find out what’s happening that month on everyone’s favorite peninsula. It’s even better when you can get onto the site and converse with your comrades. I’ve actually met people through the comments section on the 10 site. Everyone’s got something to say in the comments. Whether it’s opinions, additional information or just general conversation, it’s always worth while to check back on the comment board. I juggle between Facebook, Youtube and 10 on a regular basis. Michael Durkee, Seoul

my Korean co-workers were shocked about how I knew so much about the many festivals and foods that are currently popular in Korea. Furthermore, after reading articles on travel and food, it left me with a sense of pride. We are not all the crazy party people that the media portrays us as. What I see developing is a strong and active community with a direct link (10 Magazine) to the pulse of this nation. So thank you 10 magazine for starting something great. Jason Teale, Ulsan

Send Us a Letter, and You Could Win W15,000 in Whole Bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee How to Win Free whole bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

1. Type up a paragraph sharing your thoughts about 10 Magazine. Tell us what you think of the November issue, and especially about the events you learned about from 10!

Thanks a lot. I actually learned a lot by reading some of those articles and passed on a few things to friends so double thanks. Travis Landers, Daegu

2. Email your letter to by November 15th. 3. Excerpts from 2-3 letters will run in the December magazine. If you're chosen you will be sent 227 grams of whole bean coffee (W15,000 value) from Caribou Coffee by early January.

The main thing that “enlightened me” was how in-tune the expat community is with the happenings in Korea. After reading the numerous and well-written articles, even

“As Hwang heard the boisterous sound of marching feet and the thunderous cheers of the crowds in Pyeongyang, his stomach started to ache, his heart stopped, and he kicked the bucket.”  Pyeongyang

Overhe ard

Translated excerpt from the official North Korean response to the passing of Hwang Jang-yop, the highest ranking North Korean defector. The comments were published on October 14th on the website of the Committee for the Peaceful Reunification of Korea.

Blog of the Month

Korea Gig Guide

There is nothing like the passion of real indie music fans. They’d go to the ends of the earth to end up in a small venue listening to their favorite bands. They also like to share their knowledge and help others enjoy their passion along with them. We try to tap into that here at 10, but there’s no place that taps into that better than this month’s Blog of the Month. Korea Gig Guide is the creation of Mark Russell, who despite a move to Barcelona is still active on the site. He is now also supported by the passion of Shawn Despres, Jon Dunbar and Dain. Together they maintain the most comprehensive website on indie music in Korea. Their “Coming Events” section lists anything up to and including a guy with a harmonica in the street. We’re always proud to say 10 is the best resource on things happening in Korea (and we are!), but when it comes to intimate shows with great amateur performers, there’s no beating the Korea Gig Guide. Let us know if you ever want to bring that passion over to our website, boys!

Korea by the Numbers


Number of births per 1,000 people annually.


World ranking in low birth rates. Hong Kong has the lowest birth rate at 7.42, followed by Japan (7.64) in number two while Italy and Germany tie for the third lowest birth rate (8.18).


Korea’s Infant Mortality Rate (IMR). Consistently used as an indicator of how advanced a society is, it measures the number of children under 1 year of age who die annually per 1,000 births. The lower the number, the more advanced the country.

6 | 10 Magazine November 2010



Only 20 countries have a lower IMR than Korea. The country with the lowest IMR in the world is Singapore (224), with only 2.31 deaths per 1,000 births. Japan (2.79) ranks #4, Australia (4.75) and the UK (4.95) land close together at #29 and #31 while the US comes in at #45 with 6.22 infants dying per 1,000 births.

Subscribe today for over 30% off the cover price! W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months, 02-3447-1610,


What’s Your Favorite Korean food?


o in case you haven’t heard, nowadays every level of the Korean government is obsessed with promoting Korean cuisine to people all over the world. We here at 10, although sometimes dubious of the methodology, always want to help out Korea when we can, so this month we took it upon ourselves to make our Reader’s 10 a survey of our readers - foreigners living in Korea who have tried it all and can let Koreans know which dishes may appeal to non-Korean palates better than anyone! We expected basic Korean BBQ dishes like galbi and bulgogi would place #1 and #2 leaving the rest in the dust. Boy, were we wrong! Although galbi ended with a strong #2 showing, the #1 dish was one that rarely makes the lists of Korean food prepared by the Korean government.

Image courtesy of s h i z u k at Flickr

10. Bossam (보쌈) 9. Samgye-tang (삼계탕) 8. Sundubu Jjigae (순두부찌개) 7. Andong Jjimdalk (안동찜닭) 6. Kimchi (김치) 5. Bulgogi (불고기) 4. Bibimbab and Dolsot Bibimbap (비빔밥, 돌솟비빔밥) 3. Samgyeopsal (삼겹살) 2. Galbi (갈비)

1. Dak Galbi (닭갈비) Chicken Galbi! Who knew? Now there’s a dish that is rarely mentioned by the Korean government when promoting Korean food. Perhaps because it’s not a traditional Korean dish, first appearing in the 60s and only gaining popularity in the 80s and 90s. But Korean it is, and it would be good for the powers that be to take note if hoping to export domestically produced flavors to the world. And now for our December Reader’s 10. Now that we know about your favorite food, let’s move on to something a little sexier - literally. Korean movies have made great strides in the last 10 years, and Korean TV “dramas” are all the rage all over Asia. There are plenty of stars in all of those TV shows, but we’d like to know:

W ho is you r favor ite Kor ea n actor or actr ess? You have a chance to post your nominations up on our open thread until November 5th, and then our poll will be up until the 12th for your voting pleasure. Make your voice heard! 10 Magazine November 2010 | 7


Beef Cuts for Dummies Beef is one of the most universally adored dishes in the world, and Koreans in particular, are showing an increasing preference for this versatile meat. In fact, Koreans differentiate between 120 kinds of beef cuts while the French and English only use 35. If you have ever wanted to experiment with different cuts, the best place to start is here in Korea. Why not begin with some of the popular choices below? Tenderloin (안심 Anshim) Cut from the loin of the cow, this muscle does ver y lit tle work, meaning it is the tenderest part of the beef and mild and subtle in flavor. Typically a more expensive cut, it is popularly used in steak and roast dishes. The small portion at the end of the tenderloin, filet mignon, is so tender it can be cut with a fork. Often found in quality steakhouses, it is considered the best and most expensive cut of steak on the menu. * * *

Rib Eye

(꽃등심 Kkotdeungsim) Considered the most delicious section of the beef, this cut contains more fat than the tenderloin and is softer than the bolar blade. The rib eye comes from the tailend of the loin. This is an allpurpose cut suitable for any kind of dish including steak, bulgogi, roast, or even shabushabu.

Sirloin Steak with Mediterranean Vegetables

Ingredients (Serves 4) • 4 Australian sirloin steaks • 30 g butter • 500 g mixed mushrooms, sliced • 300 ml carton of thickened cream • potatoes and green beans to serve 8 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Method 1. Brush each sirloin steak lightly with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Preheat the chargrill pan before adding the meat. 2. Cook on one side until the first sign of moisture appears. Turn steaks once only. Test the steaks for degree of doneness with tongs. Rare is soft, medium feels springy and welldone is very firm. 3. While steaks are cooking, add the butter and mushrooms to a frypan and cook until softened. Add cream and simmer until reduced and thickened. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Remove steaks from heat, loosely cover with foil and let steaks sit for 2 minutes before serving. Serve with a spoonful of mushroom ragout, boiled potatoes and steamed green beans.

Shank (사태 Satae)

Cut from the upper portion of a cow’s legs, shank is often used in Korean stews or steamed dishes because of its tough texture. At the center of the shank is the super digital muscle, which is considered the best cut for Korean-style raw beef (육회 yukhwoe) and roast with salt seasoning (소금구이 sogeum gui). * * * Brisket (양지 Yangji) Brisket comes from the breast and belly part of a cow, which is rough in texture and contains lots of fat. It is generally used for stew, mince, or soup stock. For best results, purchase brisket with even marbling. The fatty and solid cut at the end of brisket is called the point end brisket or chadolbagi (차돌박이) in Korean. It is often used for shabushabu or pyeonyuk (편육 boiled meat) because it cooks quickly and has a strong flavor.

Meat Purchasing Tips Only buy meat with undamaged packaging and ensure meat is sealed properly and well-chilled. Always check use-by dates. Meat may still look, smell and even taste acceptable after this date, but it is better to eat it within the suggested time. Avoid meat that is discoloured, looks slimy or has “off” odours. Plastic will make meat sweat, so if you are planning to store meat for longer, it is best transferred to a non-plastic dish and covered with foil or loosely covered with plastic to allow airflow. Whether cut into slices or chunks, red meat should always be cut against the grain for maximum tenderness.


Specializing in quality meats, wines, and cheese... with a full bakery

Exit #1

Grand opening in November gifts, prizes, food...

Hangang-jin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)

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IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza



Buy the Way Exit #2

HIGH STREET MARKET win e and bakery

win e and bakery

Jae-il Building 제일기획


Hanam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Itaewon Station

Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangang-jin Station exit #1Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

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Image provided by P u l h ay n gg i


B a nch a n


Don’t let the main course distract your attention from all the delicious side dishes on the table. W o rds by c i a r a n h i c k e y, e x e c u t i v e c h e f o f t h e w s e o u l wa l k e r h i l l


or me the single biggest difference between Western and Korean mealtimes has to be the array of side dishes presented with every meal here. These small plates, “Banchan,” can range from 3 to whatever number the table will hold. They are eaten with the main dish of rice etc. The important thing to know is that Banchan are to be shared by the whole table, generally restaurants will refill them and they should be finished by the end of the meal. Banchan are generally split into categories according to the cooking process, here are a few of my favorites. Of the fermented foods of course kimchi is the king; it’s unusual to see a meal without it. While the cabbage version is the stable and the most common, the white

radish, “ggakdugi” is my favourite.You will recognize this as it is cut in easy to pick up cubes, the crunch and spice making it so popular. Vegetables, herbs and roots that have been cooked, marinated and served cold are referred to as “namul”. I have learnt that this term covers an absolute multitude of varieties as each region and even town has its own local versions. Everywhere I go there is a new one to try. I really like “kong namul,” bean sprouts blanched and tossed in sesame oil. Spinach leaves in garlic is also another one of my favorites. I learned to make both of these at my one and only Korean Cuisine cooking class last year. Some side dishes are braised or simmered dishes of meat that are served cold. Of these I really enjoy “jangjorim.” We

make it here with beef brisket simmered in a light broth with soy and served with quails eggs cooked in the same broth. The brown colored quail’s eggs were a surprise to me but I have grown to love them, the only drawback being they are a nightmare to pick up with chopsticks. Small cooked dishes called “Bokkeum” are among some of the surprises. It’s always a lottery as to what you will get and I spent a lot of early time here asking repeatedly, “What’s in that one there?” Anything with pork belly is always ok with me but I do tend to steer clear of the dishes with more “personality,” like octopus or anchovy. The wonderful little Korean Pancakes “Jeon” that everyone loves are also part of the Banchan dynasty. They come in a multitude of pretty colors and are great for taking the edge off the heat of some of their neighbors on the table. They are very useful also for picking up small pieces of pork belly and kimchi to make mini sandwiches. So ever y t h i ng f rom tof u to d r ied anchovies and marinated fish intestines, to coleslaw style salads make the sheer diversit y of Banchan so interesting, you just have to find your own favorites. Remember it’s not poor etiquette to skewer a quail’s egg after 12 attempts to pick it up with chopsticks!


Jangjorim and quail's eggs

From left: Kimchi and kkakdugi Various Jeons

10 10 Magazine November 2010

Anchovy Bokkeum Above 4 Images: Courtesy of CKWLDUD1 @ Naver

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IN THE KITCHEN Aurora (a delicious mousse cake combining salty popcorn, caramel, yuzu, white chocolate and vanilla) or his selection of traditional pastries, sandwiches and salads, there is something to please every customer, especially those with a sweet tooth. For the creation of these delightful pastries, Ruben has a dedicated staff of twelve. Communication was a little tough at first, but things are running smoothly now. He firmly believes that taking care of a new café is like taking care of a baby, and with one look at the treats on offer you can tell he is a dedicated father. Now he is ready to push himself and his team to great heights, building Amandier’s range and selection day by day. Mixing European skill with the freshest Korean ingredients, he has already started offering homemade waffles (an homage to the years he spent studying in Belgium) and eggs Benedict for brunch; he also has plans to start making his own pralines from November, with the promise of traditional f lavors along with a few new inventions of his own. I for one can’t wait to see what tasty treats lie around the corner as this dynamic Dutch chef makes his mark on northern Seoul.

It’s kind of hard not to become a baker when you have parents who will drive for an hour just to buy a decent cake.


or Ruben Jan Adrian, pâtissier at the newly opened Amandier bakery, life in the kitchen began very early on. Living above his parents’ restaurant, he soon became interested in food and by twelve years old knew that his future lay in the restaurant business. He started off working weekends and by the age of fifteen he already had a part time job at a Michelin-starred restaurant. By nineteen he had moved to Switzerland to start work full time. This 29-year-old Dutch-born pastr y chef spent the past ten years working in some of the best hotels and restaurants in Cyprus, Brussels, Paris and Singapore before setting up shop in Anguk-dong at Amandier. Ruben had been to Korea a couple of times in the past for skiing holidays and was familiar with Korean food, enjoying bibimbap once a month or so; but five months ago he left Singapore and moved here to bring a real taste of European café culture to the area. Whether it is the Tartufo macaroons (scented with truffle), the

Ruben Jan Adrian, Pastry Chef Amandier Bakery W o rds a n d s h o t s b y P a u l M a t t h e w s

Pâtissier Ruben’s Sweet Risotto with a Mango Compote

The risotto is topped with coconut meringue, lychee sorbet, and calamansi gel.

12 10 Magazine November 2010


For the risotto: • 185 g of arborio rice (or normal Korean rice) • 850 ml of milk • 100 ml of cream • 125 g of sugar • 2 g of sea salt • half a vanilla pod • 225 ml of milk (for cooling) For the compote: • 100 g of mango puree • 50 g of cubed fresh mango • 5 ml of lemon juice • 35 g of sugar


1. Wash the rice and then boil it with the milk, cream, sugar, salt and vanilla pod until al dente. 2. When al dente add in the extra milk to cool it down. Stir it through and transfer into a cold tray. Place in fridge until cool. 3. To make the compote combine the mango puree, lemon juice and sugar with the cubed mango. 4. Transfer the risotto to a bowl and top with the compote.

Dongdaemun (also called Heunginjimun) in Seoul. Courtesy of k a llebo o, Flic k r



ou’ve all heard the phrase “Shop ‘til you drop,” but the Dongdaemun Night Market may be the one place where you can literally put it into action. With the market open all-night long, you can satisfy all your fashion needs with an overwhelming selection and super low prices. Wholesale Buying and Novelty Shopping

Dongdaemun Night Market


If you’ve always felt that 12 hours just wasn’t enough time in the day for your shopping needs, the Dongdaemun Night Market will be a welcome find.

10 Magazine November 2010

W o rds a n d s h o t b y S y l v i a K i m

Most people know of, and frequent, the multi-level fashion plazas such as Migliore, Hello apM, and Doota on their visits to Dongdaemun, but many have not yet discovered the wholesale district. Located across the street from Doota, behind the Dongdaemun Histor y and Culture Park, lies an undiscovered paradise for night shoppers. Even at 3 am, the streets are bustling with nocturnal shoppers, the neon lights are brighter than ever, and the pavement is covered with big sacks full of wholesale purchases from buyers as far as Busan and even Jeju. Although the majority of the shopping seems to be done by those buying in bulk, there are many casual night shoppers scouring the busy cluster of shops all around the district for their next fashion find. U:US, Studio W, Designer Club, and Zapa are only a few of the outlets that offer an incredible selection of clothing and accessories. However, there’s just one downside; since it is in the wholesale district, some vendors may not sell to those looking to make a single purchase. Fortunately, there are plenty who do, so it is definitely worth asking. Shopping in Seoul, you will often come across a lot of the same items at different vendors, but at the wholesale district, you are guaranteed to find fabulous items that you have never seen before. If you are looking for a new handbag, wallet, or even luggage, check out the N.P.H (Nampyeonghwa) building. Or if your weakness is shoes, Team 204 is definitely pure shoe heaven.

Fashion Along the Cheonggyecheon stream, you’ll find the Pyeonghwa and ShinPyeonghwa Markets, where there is a massive amount of, well, everything. With the cold weather approaching, you may want to get some fantastic and fashionable warm fuzzies at the Pyeonghwa Market. It is exploding with hats, mittens, scarves and the like, right on the main floor. Also, be sure to check out the yellow tents lining the streets of Dongdaemun. Open from 9 pm to dawn, these stalls sell shoes, clothing, handbags, and accessories, many of which are designer knockoffs. Remember that bargaining is a must.

Shop Till You Eat

Courtesy of G roSSm a r k tha llen, Flic k r

When you are running low on energy and looking to refuel, there are dozens of delicious restaurants with a wide variety of Korean dishes just along the back street by Migliore, in the meokja golmok (먹자골목, food alleyway). Or if you are just looking for a quick eat, the pojang macha (street food stands) are usually swarming with tired and hungry shoppers scarfing down some kimbab (rice wrapped in seaweed) or tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) to satisfy their hunger enough to continue on their late-night shopping adventures. White Nights in Dongdaemun

Whether you are looking for a great new fashion find or wanting a unique experience of Seoul’s night culture (that isn’t soju, barbeque, or karaoke), Dongdaemun at night is something you should try at least once. It is bustling with so much energy that you’ll forget what time it is. The sheer spectacle of the shopping madness in the middle of the night is not often seen in many other places in the world. So grab some friends, take a nap in the early evening, and head out for some nighttime excitement at Dongdaemun Market. Getting There Doota ( and Migliore ( are near exit 14 of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Stn. (lines 2, 4, and 5). To get to the wholesale district, including U:US, cross the street

16 | 10 Magazine November 2010

from Doota and the Pyeongwha Market or come out of exit 2 of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Stn. To reach Pyeonghwa Market (, take ex. 8 from Dongdaemun Stn. cross the Cheonggyecheon, and turn right.

Shot by Sy lv i a k im

10 Qu estions

Manager of Finance and HR for Delta Airlines, Korea

David Spence


ach morning, David Spence dons his suit and heads toward the Seoul office of Delta Air Lines, the largest airline in the world. Delta serves six continents, with more than 5,500 daily flights, 70,000 employees, and 170 million passengers each year. That’s none too shabby for a company that started out dusting crops in 1924. Mr. Spence, who hails from Los Angeles, is in charge of the revenue stream for Delta Airlines in Korea, which has operations in Incheon and Busan. He and his team monitor accounting, legal issues, cost management, and other daily headaches. Fortunately, he was able to spare some time for an interview with 10. 1. We understand you were originally with another company when you arrived in Asia, but now you’re with Delta. That’s correct. I was with Northwest Airlines prior to Delta Air Lines. On October 29th, 2008 the two companies officially merged to form the world’s largest airline. All of the former Northwest employees officially joined the Delta family on that date. 2. How has the merger affected travel, particularly for those moving between the Western Hemisphere and Korea? The impact has been excellent for both business and leisure travelers. Delta and Northwest had complimentary networks prior to the merger. Where one airline had a small presence, the other had a large presence and vice versa. That translates to more destinations with more frequent


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flights for our customers. In addition, the merger allowed us to free up aircraft for new routes. One example is our new Incheonto-Detroit service that started June 1st of this year. This opened up direct flying to a major Delta hub in the US. The connectivity has been very beneficial for both our Korean and US customers alike. 3. A typical topic of conversation among expats is the preference for Asian airlines when given a choice. Is Delta doing anything to combat that “second-choice” image? Your timing for this question couldn’t be better. On September 2nd, our president unveiled plans for the complete revitalization of Delta’s fleet of Boeing 747-400 aircraft by 2012. The investments are the latest in Delta’s previously announced plan to invest more than $1 billion in enhanced global products and services through 2013. When complete, Delta will offer full flat-

bed seats on more than 100 transoceanic aircraft, including all 777s, 767s and 747s, and will feature personal, in-seat entertainment for both BusinessElite and economy class customers on all wide-body flights. 4. Does Delta have any more surprises planned for Asia in the near future? Surprises, no. But Asia is certainly an economic force with the most substantial global growth. With Delta’s more-than-60-year history here, we expect to be a part of that growth, both enabling it and growing with it ourselves. The more than eight transpacific routes we have added in the last couple of years show our commitment to growth throughout Asia. 5. You began your time in Asia in Japan. How long were you stationed there before coming to Korea? I was located in Tokyo, Japan for just over three years prior to moving to Korea. I have been in Seoul for just short of two years now. 6. Is there a difference in the work environment in each location? There is. Having spent time working in multiple locations throughout Asia, each country has its own unique culture, character, and ambiance. In addition (and this goes without saying), different companies, and even branches within those companies, have different environments as well. I think the key for any professional is to find an environment that is comfortable for them and yet pushes them to succeed. 7. How do you feel about employee attitudes in Korea? The thing that makes Korea unique is jeong (정). From day one, there was and has been a true feeling of teamwork and camaraderie that I have never felt anywhere else. I have also had the good fortune to work with some of the most talented people I have met in my career. Their unparalleled dedication to their work and to the company has been both refreshing and invigorating to me. 8. We know you can’t talk about what you don’t like about the countries you’ve worked in, but what are some things you enjoy about life in each country? Japan is probably better known than Korea. Climbing Mt Fuji, shopping in Ginza, dining in the unique yakitori restaurants, and riding the bullet train are all well-known highlights of living in Japan. For Korea, you have to dig a little deeper, but I have found the effort is well worth it. Go to a restaurant, or any business for that matter, more than a few times. They will remember you, and the warm smiles and service you receive are priceless. That (on top of a great subway system, trains and the KTX, affordable taxis, good food, and endless opportunities to explore) makes Korea a wonderful place to work, live and visit. But truly, it’s the Korean people who have made Korea feel like home. 9. What are some of your favorite things to do in Korea? I like heading over to the Jonggak and Sinchon areas in Seoul. Both have brightly lit streets and alleyways with more excellent restaurants than I could ever hope to try. I also enjoy seeing different parts of the city, visiting a noraebang now and then, exercising, meeting up with friends, and stopping by the fish market for a great dinner. Another favorite past time is showing up at Seoul Station and boarding a train to a hastily selected location with nothing but a guidebook and a change of clothes. Korea is an easy and rewarding country to explore. 10. What are you looking forward to over the next few years? I’m looking forward to seeing continued growth in the travel industry and especially at Delta Air Lines. I’m also excited to see the next wave of economic growth in Korea and Asia as a whole. On a personal note, I’m excited about continuing my leisure travel throughout Asia and the Pacific. I hope to see you on a Delta flight soon. 10 Magazine November 2010 | 19

KOR EA N DESTINATION the area and also one of the biggest. It is also one of the only places in Mugeo-Dong where you can buy reasonably fresh beans. The three-story cafe offers visitors a chance to use free internet and escape the crowds of university students. Mugeo-dong was also host to the 2002 World Southeastern city Ulsan has more to offer than the Cup and thus is the location of an awesome stawhale hunting and factories would suggest. dium and surrounding facilities. The beautiful lake, tennis courts, a world-class archery range, W o rds A N D S HOT b y J a s o n T e a l e and even an indoor shooting range give you an opportunity to spend an afternoon burning off any readers have been to Busan, Daegu, or Gyeongju, some energy. For some, Mugeo-dong is so fun filled and excitbut what about Ulsan? You probably haven’t visited the ing that they rarely leave, but there is so much more to Ulsan city unless you have friends that live there or happened than just what’s around the university. to pass through on the train or bus. Of course, that’s not too hard to understand for a city that popularizes its history of whale Shopping Centers and Party Central Samsan-dong is probably the first place that you will see when hunting and is surrounded by petrochemical plants, car factories, and one of the world’s largest ship-building facilities. These arriving in Ulsan because both bus terminals are next to each are not the sort of things that usually draw people to a city, and other by the Lotte department store. This is the unofficial “new Ulsan’s reputation as “The Industrial Armpit of Korea” has been downtown” as it is home to both Hyundai and Lotte department stores along with a myriad of hip cafés and restaurants. Samsana hard one to shake. However, the city is also surrounded by the beautiful Yeong- dong is where young and old come to shop, drink and show off nam Alps and a stunning coastline. During my seven years in their latest purchases. Ulsan, I have found plenty to like here. The three areas described In the last two years, Samsan-dong has also been a huge attracbelow offer travelers a good starting point for their visit. tion to foreigners as well. With numerous bars catering to a more Western palate, you will find a more mixed crowd when partying Cafes and Sports Fields Near the Campus at places like the Golden Eagles Pub, Beat Bar and W Garden Being the university district, Mugeo-dong is a great place to (known by most as W Bar). The beauty of this area is that everyfind cheap eats, great bars and awesome cafes. Located just steps thing is within easy reach, so bar hopping is not a problem. Simfrom Ulsan University, you can find the popular Babo Sageori ply cross the street in front of Lotte Hotel and take a right at the (fool’s intersection). This famous area has been the meeting ground Dunkin Donuts and you are in the right area. To start out, try the for young Koreans and foreigners alike for a long time and now Golden Eagles Pub (052-269-8822), which has a good menu and a looks even better with a new design and facelift. Purple Haze is comfortable, dark-wood interior. Play a few games of darts on the a popular bar amongst the English-speaking crowds. To get there, second floor as you hang out. take a left at Babo Sageori and look for a familiar “green leaf” on your right. Cafes such as Beans Bins (052-223-3315) and Cafe Jan Unfading Charm in the Old Downtown Seongnam-dong is the old downtown that simply won’t fade (070-7592-1705) offer a great cup of coffee. Beans Bins is the newest café in away—and for good reason. Though it may not have the luster

The Undiscovered Ulsan


20 10 Magazine November 2010

of Samsan-dong, it definitely has all the charm. Located along the Taehwa River, Seongnam-Dong has pretty much everything you need. As you walk down the pedestrian street you will find places like Namasakar, which has authentic Indian cuisine and a great interior. In addition to offering ample portions, they also offer services for foreign workers from Southeast Asia. Tesoro café (052-212-0608) is one of the area’s best coffee shops. With its warm brick interior and knowledgeable baristas, this cafés makes for a great evening out. The manager is also a bicycle enthusiast and will let you store your bike inside if he is there. You can also try one of the many other Korean-style cafés for affordable prices. Seongnam-dong keeps changing to keep up with the times, so it is always exciting to head down there and see what’s new. Gateway for Further Travel

Even if you’re out of ideas for activities inside the city, Ulsan is a great starting point for visiting some of Korea’s major attractions located in the vicinity. Head north along Highway #7 and you will be in Gyeongju in about an hour. Drive a few hours in the opposite direction and you will find yourself at Haeundae in Busan (Highway #14 or Expressway # 65). Roll west about 45 minutes toward Yeongsan and you will find Tongdosa Temple, founded in AD 646. While Ulsan may not have the celebrity status or the foreigner hang-outs of larger cities, there’s more than enough here to keep you busy for a long time. And I haven’t even touched on the amazing hiking, rock climbing, beach-combing or mountain biking. I’ll leave the rest for you to discover on your own. Getting There

From Seoul, the fastest route to Ulsan is by bus from Express Bus Terminal in southern Seoul. This takes 4 ½ hours and costs W22,000. The fastest train will take 5 ½ hours and cost about twice as much. If you’re in a real hurry, there’s always a domestic flight from Gimpo Airport (55 min). From left: Beans Bins Coffee, Babo Sageori, Cafe Jan, The nightscape in Samsan-dong, The Golden Eagles Pub, W Garden ( or W Bar) Bottom: Panorama of the Taehwa River

10 Magazine November 2010 | 21


Tobacco and Korea

From unwieldy pipes to black-market cigarettes, tobacco has been an important part of Korean society for over four hundred years. W o rds BY R o b e r t N e f f


he image that best typifies Koreans of the past is undoubtedly that of an old man, dressed in white, with a long tobacco pipe ready at hand. The pipe was an indispensable part of a Korean’s life. It didn’t matter if he was of noble or poor class, young or old, or even a “he”—almost all Koreans had tobacco and pipes. Tobacco was first introduced into Korea in the early 1600s following the Imjin War (1592-1598). Its initial use was as a medicine and it was very expensive. Naturally, this motivated some to attempt to profit from it, often by illegal means. While on a diplomatic mission to China in March 1643, one Korean diplomat was apprehended by the Chinese authorities for smuggling a cartload of tobacco. As more and more farmers cultivated tobacco, the price of the drug dropped, making it even more affordable and further increasing its usage. Within a couple of decades, smoking tobacco had grown so popular that Henrik Hamel, a Dutch sailor shipwrecked on Jeju Island, observed that “One finds few people who do not smoke [...] even by children of 4 or 5 years old, and among men as well as among women.” Prior to the twentieth century, most Koreans smoked tobacco using pipes. These pipes came in a variety of styles and length depending on one’s social station. For the upper class, the pipes were made with silver, gold, jade and other precious materials and were generally two or four feet long. According to Andrei Lankov, a well-known Korean historian:

1890s, smoked-glass became more available in Korea and was popular for mouthpieces. Men, women and children alike carried these long pipes, which occasionally were mistaken for walking sticks by their foreign visitors. One missionary wrote: I h a ve se e n a fe w t r a ve l ers without walking sticks, but scarcely one without a pipe. Old, young, sick or poor, they all have them and have them always. This is similar to the observation of an English visitor in 1885: “During our whole stay in the country we saw not one beggar; all appeared to be provided with a long straight pipe and an unlimited supply of tobacco.” D u r i ng the Kabo Refor ms (1894-1896), long pipes were brief ly outlawed on the streets of Seoul because of the dangers they posed. According to one Western resident in Seoul at the time:

The commonest surgical operation in Korea, the medical An elderly Korean man smokes a pipe while looking down on the missionaries say, is to pull a harbor. Korean Grandfather, 1953, Pusan Robert Neff Collection One of the major reasons two or three foot pipe stem out for the yangban [gentry] of the back of a Korean neck; preference for very long pipes was actually their by accidents in wheeling around corners or by falling down impracticality. It is difficult to light such a pipe without when intoxicated, these pipe stems are jammed downwards or help, so in order to afford a really long pipe one had to be backwards, ad infinitum. accompanied by a servant. Thus, long pipes became a sign of By 1903, pipe smoking, at least amongst the common people, wealth and privilege. had fallen into disfavor and was replaced with the more conveThe common people generally used shorter pipes for conve- nient and cosmopolitan form of tobacco usage: the cigarette. The nience when working but, when they were able to introduction of cigarettes in Korea probably took place following relax, preferred long pipes which could only be the Kangwha Treaty in 1876 which opened some of Korea’s ports smoked with comfort when sitting down. Their to trade with Japan. After the Treaty of Amity and Commerce pipes were made from bamboo with copper or was signed with the United States in 1882, increased trade with brass bowls and mouthpieces. Later, in the late the West undoubtedly brought even more cigarettes and cigars.


10 Magazine November 2010

The Korean palace was an especially large connoisseur of American tobacco. During the frequent audiences given by King Gojong to Western diplomats, whiskey and cigars were invariably offered to the foreign guests. Perhaps even more telling is the account of Queen Min by Frank Carpenter, a journalist who visited Korea in late 1888 and early 1889. He wrote: The queen dresses, of course, in Corean [sic] costume. She wears fine silks and she has beautiful diamonds. She carries a chatelaine watch which is diamond studded and she smokes American cigarettes by the thousand. All Corean women smoke and the majority of them smoke pipes. The country is, in fact, a land of smokers and the boys and men are seldom seen without pipes in their mouths. In fact, American cigarettes remained the most popular in the Korean palace, as Horace Allen, the American minister to Korea, proudly reported in 1898: American cigarettes are used exclusively at the palace, where large quantities are consumed. This makes them popular also with the higher classes. They are kept on sale in the local Chinese shops and the best retail for 40 cents silver (20 cents gold) per package of twenty. The popularity of Western cigarettes led some unscrupulous merchants to try and make a quick profit by repackaging inferior cigarettes in the discarded empty wrappers of American brands. Considering that 20 Korean-made cigarettes only cost 1 cent (gold), the counterfeiters were making a huge profit. Allen urged the Korean government to take strong measures against the Koreans involved in this form of counterfeiting and was surprised when the Korean Government announced that offenders would be punished with death. Allen acknowledged that the extreme measures were effective against Korean offenders but wryly noted they did nothing against “the Japanese merchants who were the chief offenders.� American cigarettes have remained popular in Korea over the past century–even when they were black market items following the Korean War. It wasn’t until the mid-1980s, when the Korean market began to open up, that American cigarettes could once again be legally purchased by Koreans. They are today, as in the past, still immensely popular with the Korean public.

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Above: A child peddles cigarettes and other black market goods to American soldiers. Chuncheon, Young Black Marketeer, 1952 - Robert Neff Collection courtesy of Fred Dustin

Left: An American miner's wife experiments with a Korean pipe.

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Inside Korean Fiction You’ve eaten the food, seen the movies, and visited the DMZ, but how much do you know about Korean literature? W o rds BY C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e r y


o you’ve worked your way through all of Stieg Larsson and the Twilight series is beginning to become predictable (find neck, insert teeth, repeat as necessary). Maybe it’s time to delve into Korean literature. And there is no better time than now. As few as two decades ago, translated modern Korean fiction was a dreary procession, tramping slowly but resolutely over the same dusty terrain: colonization, the Korean War, the traumas of the political war that followed, and the social and economic price of industrialization. A Western reader, picking these books up and glancing over them, could easily be forgiven for putting them down with a shudder.

In general, anything published before 1980 might seem a bit archaic and opaque. Having spent the first half of last century under the boot of the Japanese colonialists, and the latter half engaged either in an active or passive civil war, Korean modern literature has tended to have a grim, fratricidal tone that the Khmer Rouge would have embraced. Unless you are a fan of history, or uncontrollable weeping, this is the literature to look past. But a new wave (hello, hallyu!) of Korean writers (and a sprinkling of evergreen perennials) has put much of that in the past, either moving on to new topics, or melding old topics to themes and stories that English-language readers can enjoy. For more fun reads, and works with more comprehensible contents, you should generally turn your eyes to fiction written in the last 25 years or so. What to read depends on your interest. Are you interested in Korean literature in general? Do you like women’s lit? Looking for modern literature with a Korean flavor? Do plucky family stories pluck your heartstrings? Do you like novels? Novellas? Short stories? Shorter Reads


f you’re looking for an introduction to the literature in general, one of the most common ways to get a quick, mostly enjoyable, and fairly representative take on modern Korean fiction is to dive into the Portable Library of Korean Literature (PLKL). In fact, you might even have come across some of these slender, novella-sized books characteri zed by si ngle color, non-gloss covers with truly bizarre reversed-


10 Magazine November 2010

hangul designs. The PLKL is 26 books of short stories/novellas by authors of classic Korean modern literature including Yi Sang (“The Wings”, 날개, 1936), Kim Yu-jeong (“The Camellias”, 동 백꽃, 1936), Kim Moon-Soo (“The Chronicle of Manchwidang”, 만취당기, 1989), and Ch’oi Yun (“The Last of Hanako”, 하나코는 없다, 1994). While some of these works do focus on the “older” issues of modern literature that I have previously mentioned, they are nonetheless quite interesting and a quick way to be introduced to a range of Korean writers and fiction. They are also quite inexpensive, costing between W5,000 and W7,000 won depending on the bookstore. As a bonus these books are like Seoul taxis: compact, and if you don’t like the one in front of you there will be another along shortly. If you are a short story fan and searching for an inclusive anthology, look no farther than Land of Exile, which remains the accessible standard. Recently re-released to include more modern stories, this excellently translated work is a good starting point for a reader interested in understanding the general outlines of Korean post-WWII literature. It is organized chronologically, which helps demonstrate the general lines upon which Korean modern literature has developed and expanded. Also quite good is Modern Korean Fiction: An Anthology, which covers some of the same territory as Land of Exile, including sharing a story. This is a relatively common problem with translation of Korean literature. Because there are certain canonical fictions in the Korean mind, some stories get translated and re-translated, often with slightly different translations of the titles, which sometimes makes it difficult to determine where the duplications exist. Always be certain to carefully examine the table of contents and also be aware that the method of romanizing the author’s names can cause confusion. Fiction by Females


Yi Sang, 1910—1937 and The Wing

here are also collections for specific interests. Over half of modern Korean writers are women. At times, women have been edited and published quite separately; at times, women have been scarcely published at all. But make no mistake; separated or not, female Korean writers pack a punch, while often writing stories that seem more accessible to foreign readers. By combining the traditional concerns of Korean fiction

Park Wan-Suh

Shin Kyung-Suk

with family and relationship-based themes, female Korean writers often offer up works that are easier to relate to than those of their male counterparts. Perhaps the most famous collection is Words of Farewell: Stories by Korean Women Writers, which can be found on Amazon and contains stories written by Kang Sokkyong, Kim Chi-Won and O Chong-Hui. Specific female writers to look for include Park Wan-suh and Ch’oe Yun. Park Wan-Suh writes stories like Amy Tan might have if half her family had been murdered. And I mean that in a good way. Ch’oe Yun writes often fantastical stories based on historical events. Just last year, Park released Who Ate Up All The Shinga (그 많던 싱아는 누가 다 먹었을까, 1992), which is an excellent mother/daughter semi-autobiographical story set in the time just before the Korean War. Park’s short story collection Sketch of the Fading Sun is also worth checking out, and contains one of her most famous short stories, “During Three Days of Autumn” (also known as “Three Days in that Autumn” 그 가을의 사흘동안, 1980). Park has also written Weathered Blossom (마른 꽃, 1998), the story of a doomed elderly love affair in a small novella with the Hollym imprint. A quick note about the Hollym books: the works are chosen carefully, the covers are extraordinary, the bindings tight, the illustrations superb, and each book features the original Korean text as well as a built-in cloth bookmark. If you see one of these, it’s likely to be a good pick-up. Ch’oe Yun first came to the attention of English readers with the publication of Last of Hanako which was initially published by the PLKL and later added to Land of Exile in its latest edition. The story of youthful friends who are torn apart by circumstance, Last of Hanako depended on a plot twist that might seem obvious to a western reader. But with the 2008 release of the collection There a Petal Silently Falls:3 stories (저기 소리없이 한 점 꽃 잎이 지고, 1988) Ch’oe stepped firmly into the forefront of international Korean writers. The novella from which the book draws its title is a horrific story of fam10 Magazine November 2010 | 25

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Top: Hwang Sok-Yong, bottom: Yi Mun-Yol

ily tragedy (based on real events in Kwangju in 1980) along the traditional plotlines of Korean literature, but Ch’oe invests the story with such surreal tragedy and hallucinatory writing that the reader is pulled along. “Whisper Yet” is the slightest work in the book, and “The Thirteen Scent Flower” is a surreal, happy-yetsad story of an unlikely romance enmeshed in the coarse fabric of larger life. There are other themed collections as well. If you are one of those people who instinctively head towards the sound of sirens, smell of smoke, screams of children or M. Night Shyamalan mov-


ies, The Red Room might be just right for you. This red-covered anthology contains three stories that focus on Korean traumas, including the excellent “In the Realm of Buddha” by Park Wansuh. This is not particularly cheery stuff, to say the least. Novellas and Novels


orean literature also abounds with translated novellas and novels, and here it is useful to know the names of a few authors. Who knows? You might be able to drop some of these names and impress people at cocktail parties. Well, Korean cocktail parties, anyway! Yi Mun-yol is an interesting writer whose work bridges the gap between the more traditional issues of modern Korean fiction and what might be called the cutting edge. Yi’s classic work Our Twisted Hero (우리들의 일그러진 영웅, 1987) is a meditation on the uses and misuses of power, which metaphorically explores the Korean political situation of the 1970s and 80s. The Poet tells an even older story of poet Kim Sak-kat who dishonors his grandfather and suffers considerably for it. An Appointment With My Brother is perhaps his most predictable work, telling the story of a family bisected by the Korean War. But Yi is also capable of stunning modern work as his Twofold Song (두겹의 노래, 2004) ably demonstrates with its explosive mix of surrealism and love story. The word in Korean literary circles is that Yi is working on his first new fiction in over a decade, and if that is true, it is a publication to look forward to. A longish novel, but quite easy to read due to its episodic structure, is Cho Se-hui’s The Dwarf (난장이가 쏘아올린 작은 공, 1978). This is a tremendously affecting and powerful work of social criticism focusing on the forced redevelopment of Seoul in the 1970s and the human costs that accompanied it. It combines biting realism with a semi-fractured structure that pulls the reader into the difficult and fragmented era the work describes. Cho combines a kaleidoscopic narrative approach, powerful use of scientific symbols, and a dead-flat and deadeye narrative tone.

ard-bitten detectives cheated on by their wives; men hit by buses, slapped by women, trapped in elevators, humiliated at work, and doused in cold water (all in one day); a “suicidist” whose “art” is helping others die; and an embedded spy suddenly called back to North Korea—these are some of the dark topics that Korean writer Kim Young-ha has addressed in the last ten years. Yet, for all the darkness of his themes, Kim writes with a light and clever touch. With the upcoming publication of Chi Young-Kim’s English translation of his second novel Your Republic Is Calling You (originally 빛의 제국 or literally “Empire of Light”), Kim may be poised to break through the “English-languagebarrier” for Korean writers. Kim’s first work, Photo Shop Murder, is the tale of a classic anti-hero, an alienated cop with family trouble chasing down the murderer of a shop owner. This collection also contains “Whatever Happened to the Guy in the Elevator,” the 26 | 10 Magazine November 2010

absurdist and amusing story of a man for whom everything possible goes wrong, in a city far beyond caring. These are two short stories that get it just right. Kim’s next work is I Have the Right to Destroy Myself, a dark tale of an aesthete whose tastes tend towards fine art and suicide. An existential examination of the meaning of life, death, eros, anomie and identity, it was particularly successful in France. Now comes Your Republic is Calling You (reviewed in the August issue of 10), a kind of reverse-mystery. In one sense it’s a spy story, but it’s also a meditation on the different kinds of “emptiness” in North and South Korea. Chock-full of interesting details, and based on a true story, this should appeal to any reader. Photoshop Murder is available for $7.00, I Have the Right to Destroy Myself for $11.00 and Your Republic is Calling You for $10.17. They can be found on Amazon, or in your local bookstore. Check out Kim Young-ha’s work. It might be the next big thing!

The Dwarf was enormously popular upon its first publication, and its key chapter “A Dwarf Launches a Little Ball” has been reprinted in Korea 245 times as a short story or novella. Potential readers should be sure to get the complete version of this story, rather than the abridged PLKF version. The authors and books mentioned here are only the tip of the translated iceberg, and are only intended to be a jumping-off point. I have left out many great authors and works; I haven’t mentioned Kyungran Jo’s Tongue (혀, 2009): A Novel, Sokyong Hwang’s The Guest (손님, 2005), the upcoming publication of Kyung-sook Shin’s Please Look After Mom (엄마를 부 탁해, 2008)…well, you get the idea. But once you begin to take a look at modern Korean literature, tracking down the rest of it will be a pleasure in itself.

Five Books NOT to Read

The books below are all famous and written by major Korean authors, but being great doesn’t necessarily make them good. Consider these unrecommended. 1 Heartless (무정, 1917) by Yi Kwang-su. This should have been titled “Endless.” Known as the first “modern” Korean novel, it is unfocused, unreadable and not particularly modern anymore. 2 Aunt Suni (순이 삼촌, 1978) by Hyeon Ki-young. Mix a healthy dose of fratricidal violence and insanity with a translation done on a Ouija board and this is what you get. Don’t get it! 3 Between Heaven and Earth (천지간, 1996) by Yun Dae-Nyeong. Insubstantial crossed with unintelligible creates a story lighter than cotton candy and almost entirely plotless. Give this one a wide berth. 4 Buckwheat Season (메밀꽃 필 무렵, 1936) by Yi Hyo-Sok. This incomprehensible bucolic-romantic story has a central secret as obvious as the nose on Barbra Streisand’s face. This work is inexplicably beloved of Koreans.

Shot by Charles Montgomery

5 A Man (사나이) by Hwang Soon-Won. One decent story about Jeju, “Bibari,” can’t overcome the horrific and inexplicable sexual politics of the title story, nor the meandering pointlessness of “The Dog of Crossover Village.” Book Shopping In Seoul, a trip to What The Book in Itaewon (recently relocated closer to Noksapyeong Stn. on line 6) or Kyobo Books in Gwangwhamun can lead readers to a treasure trove of new fiction, while just around the corner by Noksapyeong Stn. The Foreign Book Store (image) sometimes stocks out of print collections. For readers out of Korea, many of the works discussed here are available on and have Kindle versions. For a longer discussion of where to find books in Korea, be sure to check out two classic 10 Magazine articles: “Good Books: English Bookstores in Korea” (Feb 2010, and “Free English Books at Your Local Public Library” (May 2009, 10 Magazine November 2010 | 27

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How Korea Was Caffeinated

To learn the story behind Korea’s fixation on the coffee bean, you have to travel from the streets of Seattle to the slopes of North Korea’s Mt. Baekdu.


Words by Andray Abrahamian

reen coffee beans sit in a large bag, waiting to be micro-roasted in the machine just next to a barista, who is absorbed frothing milk for a cappuccino. The beans will soon be dark, rich and above all, fresh. Is this a scene from Milan? Brooklyn? Melbourne? No. It’s from Yanji. Where? Yanji is a small city just north of the DPRK and only two hours from the Russian border. Shoddy buildings, traffic f lows, buildings, rubble and rabble combined with Hangul on all the signage make it seem like you’ve stepped into 1970’s Seoul. What is a microroastery doing here, 26 hours train ride from Beijing? Simply: South Koreans come here on the way to hike Mt. Baekdu, and South Koreans have become the coffee connoisseurs of Asia. In every major city in South Korea, in-house roasted beans, extensively trained baristas and expensive imported Italian machines deliver coffee to an increasingly sophisticated set of consumers. Baristas usually display their qualifications behind the bar, especially if they’ve placed in one of the many barista competitions around the country. It wasn’t always like this. It was more like this: You deposit a bit of pocket change and push a button. A paper cup rattles into the cavity, various powders get excreted into it, dowsed with piping hot water and presto! Not 10 seconds after your coins plopped into the machine, you’re holding a small cup of “coffee.” Really, it’s just a few freezedried granules of the lowest-possible-grade coffee beans, a bunch of sugar and whitener, which includes stuff like sodium caseinate, diglycerides and a host of other chemicals that sound like baddies from Dr. Who. For a generation, slurping one of these abominations to stay awake at one’s desk or to taste something sweet after a belly full of salt and spice was coffee for Koreans. Even at dabang—pseudo-traditional Korean cafes you can still spot from time to time—only instant coffee was to be found. How did this grim situation change? One word,


10 Magazine November 2010

four syllables: Starbucks. Say what you will about the chain: that it’s fast-foodized coffee; that it contributes to a generic urban landscape; that it has sacrificed quality for market share; that it’s overpriced; that the pastries are packed with preservatives; that the founder is responsible for the underhanded destruction of the Seattle Supersonics. Yes. Say all those things. But what Starbucks has done all over the world is introduce people to coffee as a luxury good. Especially in Asia, going to Starbucks has become a social signifier: “I’m a sophisticated, modern consumer.” In Korea, this gave rise to a specific brand of poseurs: dwoenjangnyeo (된장녀), young women who eat a cheap triangle kimbap for lunch so they can spend their meal allowance at Starbucks, being seen all afternoon. Starbucks opened their first Korean branch in 1999, had over a hundred outlets by 2004 and are planning to hit 360 nationwide in the coming months. In Korea, they have the only Starbucks with no English sign (스타벅스 커피 in Insadong) and for a time the largest Starbucks in the world, a five-story monster in Myeongdong that has since changed hands. They are the biggest player in a market dominated by several chains, both foreign (like Coffee and Tea Leaf) and local (like Caffe Bene). Thanks to them, words like “barista,” “macchiato” and “double shot” are now part of the Korean language’s extensive list of loan words. As more Koreans travel abroad and learn to appreciate foreign cuisine in general, the education provided by chain coffee shops has helped local coffee nerds find a market for their passion. Independent cafés started opening up in the 2000s and now are easy to find in any downtown or university neighborhood. Usually very comfy, these indies also have a unique sense of style: hand-drawn art, local music and patterns of patronage and service make Korean cafés distinctive. Many cafés are table service affairs. You order at the counter, but the coffee is brought out to you, often with pictures – “latte art”—sketched in the milk. Almost all baristas have undergone training for this. Attention to detail at independent coffeehouses tends to be very high. Menus are often more extensive than in the United States, with rarely seen Italian derivatives of espresso Image: Jeff Kubina

Andray Abrahamian Emperor Gojong from the collection of Robert Neff

such as longo (a shorter, stronger pull of espresso) and shakerato (espresso shaken over ice, like a martini) alongside local favorites such as green tea latte or sweet potato latte (better than it sounds). With perhaps a stereotypical penchant for exam-taking, most Korean baristas study formally for anywhere from three months to two years. They receive certification and are thus very knowledgeable and dedicated to their craft. Cafés stay open until late, making them hotspots for couples on dates and groups of friends who want to hang out but not drink booze. Unlike the west, coffee is not yet needed to start the day. Outside of the chain cafés, it’s unusual to find a place pulling shots before 11 am. Though it may sound bolder than a blue mountain hand-drip, I’m prepared to say that the average cup of coffee at a Korean café is of better quality than in the United States. The speed at which this has become the case is staggering; five or six years ago, a good cup of coffee was about as rare as a DMZ tiger. Today, pastries and cakes sometimes lag behind due to a lack of artisanal bakeries, but this too is gradually improving. Korea has taken coffeehouse culture from Europe, via America and made it its own. If this is a form of cultural imperialism, you don’t hear many traditionalists complaining, though this is probably because they’re addicted to caffeine. To get their fix, they can visit quality, independent cafes in almost every Korean city. For Seoulites, flip the page for a list of ten true gems just waiting for you to discover.

Emperor Gojong: Coffee Lover The first Korean coffee connoisseur came long before the Starbucks invasion, around the time of the more insidious Japanese takeover of Korea. Japanese expansionists were putting the Joseon Dynasty under tremendous pressure at the end of the 19th century. In 1895, they judged Empress Myeongseong to be an obstacle to their political ambitions and had her assassinated. Fearing a coup d’état or worse, her husband Emperor Gojong took his court and fled from the palace to the Russian Legation early the next year. There, he was introduced to a heavily sugared style of coffee, which he grew to love and drink regularly. He governed the country and served coffee as he gave audiences to various officials and envoys. Sadly, coffee culture didn’t take off at that time, but to be fair, Koreans had slightly more important things to worry about. 10 Magazine November 2010 | 29


Addis Ababa  Hongdae Don’t let the excellent music, friendly service, and comfy décor fool you. The coffee here is top notch. All hail I and I Emperor Haile Selassie I. Directions: Walk straight from Hongdae Stn. (line 2, ex. 2) and turn left at the Donggyo-dong Intersection. It’s a few hundred meters ahead on the right. Seodaemun-gu Yeonhui-dong 353-93. 070-8887-9496 Weekdays 9:30 am – midnight Weekends 9:30 am – midnight


Club Espresso  Buam-dong Repel North Korean commando attacks and hike down from Inwangsan to find the safest coffee bunker in Seoul. Club Espresso has a ridiculous amount of coffee stored in their shop. Should Seoul come under siege caffeine addicts can sit tight in the Club. Directions: Hail a taxi or drive yourself to this out-of-the-way coffee shop. Jongno-gu, Buam-dong 257-1. 02-764-8719 Everyday 9 am – 11 pm

Joe McPherson

Directions: From Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1), walk toward Hongik University and turn left at the intersection with Yogi (요기) and 7-11. It’ll be on the right. Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 409-10 02-333-3562 Mon – Sat 1 pm – 10 pm Sundays and holidays closed

Aaron Frey

Jong-Hoon Lee

Directions: From Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 4), turn left and go straight for five minutes. You’ll see it between the Buy the Way and the Paris Baguette. Mapo-gu, Dohwa-dong, 230-8. 070-4200-4624 Weekdays 10 am – 11 pm Weekends 11 am – 11 pm

Chan’s Espresso BarHongdae Chan’s shop is rather small and the decor is austere. But that’s OK because the baristas who work there are indifferent and the prices are high. People in the know go for espressos by Tim Wendelboe, and the Intelligentsia coffee beans. How serious are you about coffee?

Kyle Burton

10 9 Republic of Coffee  Mapo When Johann Sebastian Bach composed his Coffee Cantata about addiction to coffee he was probably thinking of the drinkers at Zimmerman’s Coffee House in Leipzig. But you can enjoy the satire and bitterness of both master composer and barista in the Republic of Coffee here in the Republic of Korea.

The 10 Best Coffee Shops in Seoul Words by Jacob Roy with special thanks to Aaron Frey

There are literally thousands of coffee shops in Seoul, and all cravers of the sharp savor of roasted beans already have their own personal favorite. But there’s an aristocracy of cafes in Seoul of which few are aware. Chat up enough serious baristas and you’ll start to hear the same names. This is no conspiracy— this is the mutual respect and recognition given to those who are completely devoted to the art of coffee. To join the club, stop by the shops below.

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Directions: Start at Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) and turn right on the main street that heads toward Hongdae Stn. It’ll be on the second diagonal street to the right. Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 411-12. 02-325-5202 Everyday 11 am – 1 am


La Caffe  Wangsimni Is your $5,000 espresso machine broken? No worries, head over to La Caffe. Owner and coffee tech tinkerer Brandon J. H. Bang will fix it up. La Caffe also has a very rare, hand-built espresso machine called the “Slayer” from Seattle. Now you can listen to and drink the “Angel of Death.” Closed Mondays. Directions: Start at Wangsimni Stn. (lines 3, 5, Jungang, ex. 9). This one’s tricky, so check for a detailed map. Seongdong-gu, Haengdangdong, 140 Lemon Plaza #107 02-2299-9442 Weekdays 10 am – 10 pm Weekends 11 am – 10 pm

Aaron Frey

Directions: Take the second right from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). It’s in the alley just to the left of the entrance to Jeongdok Library. Jongno-gu, Sogyeok-dong, 142-2. 02-722-6169 Weekdays 7:30 am – 11 pm Weekends 9:30 am – 11 pm


Café Miz Moren  Hongdae MM’s baristas are siphon-pot brewing aficionados. Order the very impressive Café O Lait and marvel as they create a 2-meterhigh double waterfall of steaming liquids right into the cups at your table. It’s almost as good as a double rainbow.

Aaron Frey

Porvided by Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf

Directions: The Seoul Finance Center is about 150 meters from City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 4). Jung-gu, Taepyeong-ro 1-ga 84 SFC Building B1. 02-753-2374 Weekdays 7:30 am - 10:30 pm Sat 8 am – 10 pm Sun 12 pm – 10 pm


Coffee FactorySamcheong-dong The factory forges cappuccinos and smelts single origin coffees like they were model T Fords. The industrial revolution was neither industrial nor a revolution; discuss, over coffee.

Aaron Frey


CBTL  Gwanghwamun Located in the Basement of the Seoul Finance Center is the upmarket branch of the ubiquitous Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. This particular store is in possession of one of only 100 Victoria Arduino Venus Century espresso machines ever made. Drink your latte just like the Pope does.


전광수 Jeon Gwang-su COFFE HOUSE 

Bukcheon Gwang-su Jeon’s coffee house has the connoisseur’s cup. Jeon has been in the game for over a decade and runs his own school. Most of the barristers in his Bukcheon cafe near the Korean Constitutional Court pay the baristi who are busy working away to pay off the W3.5 million they paid the Korean caffeine godfather to take his 18-month barista course.

Provided by Coffee House

Directions: take ex. 2 from Anguk Stn. (line 3) and go straight for 250 meters until you reach a major four-way intersection. Take a right and it’ll be on your right. Jongno-gu, Gye-dong 99-12. 02-745-2050 Weekdays 10 am – 11 pm, Saturday 12 pm – 11 pm, Sunday 12 pm – 9 pm


Coffee Lab  Hongdae Over the last 600 years coffee made the long trip from the Sufi monasteries of Yemen to this hip Café in Seoul. Drink like a Dervish and start spinning round, but don’t jump in the Lab or you’ll bust your melon on a chair leg.

Aaron Frey

Directions: between Hongdae Stn. and Sinchon Stn., this shop is as tough to find as a bean in a haystack. Google “Coffee Lab Frshgrnd” and click on the first link for a map. Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong 327-19. 02-3143-0908 Sun – Thu 11 am - midnight, Fri – Sat 11 am – 1 am

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m usic

Rockin’ Toward the New Year:

End of the Year Music Competitions Olde Stompers and Rocky Mountain Tavern hold annual competitions for aspiring musicians to enter the Korean music scene. W o rds BY C o n o r O ’ R e i l ly


RMT Battle of the Bands Each Friday from November 26th until the final round on December 17th. Starts at 10 pm. Valid date October 31st, 2010

Olde Stompers’ Battle of the Bands Each Saturday from October 30th until the final round on November 20th. Starts at 9 pm. Rocky Mountain Tavern 010-5189-2327 Olde Stompers 32 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Shot by S u m m e r Wa l k e r

ach year, popular rock spots Olde Stompers and Rocky Mountain Tavern host annual live music competitions from November to December. Within a stone’s throw of each other, both Olde Stompers and RMT offer musicians a chance to prove who the best band in Seoul really is. With over three million won’s worth of prizes, the two venues host three incredibly competitive events. Stompers’ Battle of the Bands and Rocky Mountain Tavern’s Acoustic Showdown and Battle of the Bands run continuously from the last weekend in October right up to the week before Christmas. All three competitions, which attract a wide range of acts from around the country, showcase amateur musical talent in Seoul. Rocky Mountain Tavern’s Acoustic Showdown is the first of the three to start. Solo musicians take the stage on Friday, October 29th at 9 pm. First held over six years ago, the Acoustic Showdown is the longest running of the three events. It offers the widest variety of talent with between eight and ten acts playing in three heats all for a place in the final, where a prize worth W1 million awaits. Most winners usually come away after performing a mix of original songs and cover versions, according to Jamie Cottin, who is running the event in Rocky Moutain Tavern. Up the steps and around the corner from RMT, Stompers’ Battle of the Bands kicks off on the following night. Now in its third year, organizer Summer Walker is proud of the contest’s reputation for diversity and quality. Previous winners Galaxy Express are now a regular on the Korean music festival circuit, and last year’s winners were a Latin-style quartet called The Willman Band. This year’s event will feature bands from Gangneung and Daegu, as well as eyebrow-raising rock-rap act Pinnacle and the Antidote. The week after Stompers’ event and the Acoustic Showdown end, Rocky Mountain Tavern is back in business with its own Battle of the Bands, taking place every Friday night from November 26th until the Friday before Christmas. The competition here is fierce. Though Stompers may offer more diverse acts, RMT’s battle is a powerhouse of rock. At RMT, bands are given thirty minutes to show their stuff. The deadline works wonders in pushing the bands to produce their biggest and best effort in the time allowed.

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We are delighted to offer a variety of financial services to foreigners (resident and non-resident) including investment in Korean stocks.

A Foreigner’s Guide to Korean Stocks Exceeding 1,000 trillion won (equivalent to 910 billion US $), the Korean stock market is the 13th largest in the world of market capitalization. With a wide spectrum of diverse industries and global corporations, such as Samsung Electronics and Hyundai Motors, it is a shame that the language barrier and lack of ease in accessible information make it difficult for foreigners living in Korea to capitalize on the growth of the lucrative Korean stock market. However, this year, foreign institutional investors have been the heaviest net buyers. Securities firms like Daewoo Securities are making it easier for foreigners to transition from mere spectators of Korea’s capital growth to profitable stock owners. So how can you become a part of the Korean stock market? First off, you can easily open accounts with one of the securities firms in Korea with your alien registration card. At these firms, you can receive research papers and information written in English. Another option is to trade online. Securities firms can set up online trading accounts for you. Trading can be done easily at the comfort of your home through the securities firms’ English homepages. Securities firms also offer other ways to make money. For example, C.M.A. (Cash Manage Account) allows you to open accounts to get fixed interest income. Without the burden of a one year term deposit agreement, C.M.A. allows you to deposit money and withdraw cash from any ATM machine nationwide with no fees. For further information and a proper introduction to the Korean stock market, you can visit Daewoo Securities’ Yoksamyok branch in Gangnam. There is a foreign information desk to answer any questions concerning prospective stock buyers. After learning adequate information about the Korean stock market, you can be helped with opening trading accounts and gaining in depth knowledge about Korean companies and trading methods. To learn more about opening an account or stock trading, call 02-568-4488 or email at

10 Magazine November 2010 | 33


Daewoo Securities is obliged to explain about the characteristics and commissions of the financial products to its clients and the clients are urged to listen to the sales person carefully and be sure of the risk levels involved in the investment and make a responsible investment decision. Financial products are not protected by the depositors’ protection law and may incur loss. Collective investment securities can generate profits or take losses and the responsibilities are borned by the clients. Please read the investment guideline before subscribing to the collective investment securities.

Expat News ATEK Seeks Help for Ongoing Projects

Networking Is More Fun with Linked Seoul

ATEK continues to grow, and the staff is working on a few projects that you can help out with. First, officers are developing an updated English Teacher’s Guide to Korea, loaded with advice for everyone from newcomers to veterans on making the most out of teaching in Korea. Second, ATEK President Jae-hee Oh has proposed a nationwide clothing drive for those in need. If you would like to help with either of these projects, write Rob Ouwehand at or JaeHee Oh at ATEK (The Association for Teachers of English in Korea) is a nationwide all-volunteer network formed to make life better for English teachers in Korea. Along with helping teachers in difficult situations, ATEK provides information about how to develop professionally as an English teacher and advice about making the most of life in Korea. Anyone can join, and anyone can contribute! See for info, or join at

Networking is essential to any business professional, as it’s often who you know that leads to new opportunities and closes deals. Seoul has plenty of regular networking events for you to attend, such as forums, seminars and meetings hosted by various Chambers of Commerce, associations and other civic groups throughout the city, but it can be hard to track them all down. Fortunately, Linked Seoul centralizes Seoul’s networking events into one comprehensive listing for easy online access. Also found on the site are professional job openings and a discussion forum. In addition, Linked Seoul hosts its own popular offline quarterly event. At Linked Seoul events, you don’t just swap business cards, you also participate in fun activities. The first event featured was the marshmallow challenge and the second had guests busy trying to build the tallest paper giraffe. These activities aim to connect people in a fun environment with great prizes to win. Networking with Linked Seoul provides an opportunity to make new connections, socialize, and have fun. Catch you at the next Linked Seoul event! Facebook: Linked Seoul

Vidal Sassoon-Trained Hairstyler Opens in Itaewon

Citi Cards: Your Reliable Partner for Overseas Travel With Citi Cards, travel for pleasure or business is more exciting. Any Citi Cards holder can benefit from Citibank World Privileges, a program offering discounts and preferential benefits at more than 5,000 merchants in 24 countries in Asia and across the world. Double your excitement with benefits on dining, shopping, spas and accommodations. For example, when you dine at Jumbo Restaurant in Singapore, you can get a 10% discount on your meal with Citi Cards. But these offers are not limited to overseas travelers. You can also experience various premium dining benefits in Korea. For useful tips about overseas offers before you begin your journey, visit


10 Magazine November 2010

If you’re tired of entrusting your lovely locks to Korean stylists who may not know how to deal with a waegugin’s hair, just leave it to Jay Kim. After training at Vidal Sassoon in London and gaining experience at Tony&Guy, Jay has opened up a new salon in Itaewon called Jay’s Hairdressing. His experience abroad gives him the right touch for your hair, whether you need it dyed, styled, or just cut. And on the subject of style, he’s got his finger on the pulse of the latest hairdos. To get to the expat style experts, walk about 100 meters from the Itaewon Fire Station toward Hangangjin Stn, where you’ll find Jay’s Hairdressing located on the 2nd floor. 10 Magazine’s readers can get a special 10% discount through the end of December. 070-4227-6158

Edited by K you ngh ee Li m and Song Lee

Seoul Convention Bureau Offers G20 Summit Tours With thousands of foreign visitors expected in Seoul for the G20 summit, the Seoul Convention Bureau (SCB) has prepared several special offerings so short-term visitors can make the most out of their free time in the city. These offerings include a handbook, tours and an online trip planner featuring Seoul’s top attractions. They were developed from an SCB survey of 500 foreign residents to identify the city’s greatest experiences. Trip Planner This SCB online tool provides detailed information about the city’s diverse attractions and allows visitors to arrange their own tour courses. There are over 100 pre-arranged courses on the SCB’s website (, and visitors can use dropdown menus to select lengths and themes. G20 Summit Tours Working with the city government, the SCB will offer free limousine bus tours on Nov. 9-12 to foreigners participating in the summit and related meetings, as well as those accompanying them. Half-day, evening and all-day tours are available. The itineraries include palaces, IT product exhibitions, museums, a Han River cruise and various cultural experiences. The tours were arranged with 11 travel agencies from the Seoul MICE Alliance, an association of local corporations involved in the meetings industry. For more information, contact Carren Park of the SCB (02-3788-0865 Handbook “Seoul G20: The Capital’s Greatest 20 Experiences” is a compact guide covering food, performances, temples, palaces and various other attractions. It includes popular areas such as Myeongdong and Insadong as well as off-the-beaten-path experiences. The handbook, which has detailed descriptions, colorful photographs and a CD with images of top attractions, will be distributed in major hotels and other venues where many foreign visitors are expected. 10 Magazine November 2010 | 35

Gastronomic News

Edited by K you ngh ee Li m and Song Lee

Red Sonja Is Pieroth Wines’s Sexy New Beer Red Sonja, the red-haired Amazon with the big sword who has appeared in comic books and films, is now the inspiration for a popular European beer. As the comic books would have it, the halves of a blood orange kept the heroine in good fighting form, and the same blood oranges are mixed with wheat beer to make this exciting shandy. Red Sonja is just right for those who love wheat beer but also enjoy the fruity-bitter character of sun-ripened blood oranges. Contact Pieroth Wines for more info. 02-711-9171

Upgrade Your Afternoon Smoke with a Montecristo Regatta Korea has Cuban cigar importer Pierre Ltd. to thank for the Regatta, the newest cigar from the Montecristo brand of H a b a n o s. T h e Regatta is part of the new Open line of Monte cr istos, w hic h are made of select leaves from the finest vegas (meadows) in the Vuelta Abajo region of Cuba, and the four new vitolas in the line maintain the distinctive flavour of Montecristo. The Regatta is a figurado that closely follows the tradition of Montecristo with a thinner smoke, ring gauge of 46 and length of 135mm. The size is perfect for an autumn smoke when cooler winds blend well with a cigar that offers a large quantity of spicy, earthy smoke. This cigar will afford you 40 minutes of true delight. 02-557-9656

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Bulgogi Brothers Opens New COEX Branch Ahead of the G20 Bulgogi Brothers is making it easier for visitors to the G-20 Seoul Summit to get a taste of authentic Korean barbecue. Last month, Bulgogi Brothers opened up its 23rd store in basement level 2 at the Oakwood Hotel in COEX, which in addition to being an international conference center will also be the location of many of the G-20 events scheduled to take place on November 11th - 12th. With its proximity to the international gathering, the new branch of B ulgo g i B rot her s was designed and planned to meet global standards for interior and ser vice without compromising Korean aesthetics. In more practical terms, the 114-seat restaurant will include a large meeting space with a 30-person capacity which will be ideal for a business meeting or company dinner. The premium beef dishes on the menu such as the Ribeye and Korean Beef Bulgogi with Pine Mushroom reflect Bulgogi Brothers’ effort to find dishes that will satisfy the discriminating tastes of foreign guests. The high quality of the food here makes it an appropriate choice for those hoping to entertain business partners from abroad in a formal atmosphere. But for guests who are looking for a more affordable option, the lunch sets offer great value for money. A meal at Bulgogi Brothers can be an excellent chance to introduce your guests to a more traditional side of Korean cuisine. In particular, menu items like the Eonyang Bulgogi and Gwangyang Bulgogi reflect the age-old culinary customs of Gyeongsang Province and Jeolla Province. Those who enjoy a drink with their dinner will also find themselves wanting to try the wide variety of spirits offered at the restaurant. Don’t stop at the ample wine list but consider ordering one of the more traditional domestic liquors including Andong soju and rarer finds such as hwayo, seolhwa, munbaeju, heobeoksul, and five different kinds of makgeolli (rice wine). Select the right alcohol to go with your meal for a more authentic experience with Korean food. Gangnam-gu Samseong-dong 159 Oakwood Hotel B2 02-3466-8511


Seoul’s Newest, Healthiest Buffet Option

Macrobiotic Cuisine Offered to G-20 Guests

Affordable Prices at Wine Bazaar

Witold Szczechura Appointed as New Executive Chef

JW Marriott Seoul After a one-month, $1 million makeover, the old Marriott Café at the JW Marriott Seoul is reborn as the The Café@JW. Offering a sleeker, more health-conscious dining experience, the restaurant serves organic haute cuisine as well as international breakfast, lunch and dinner favorites a-la-carte. From Nov 1st – 14th, guests can enjoy traditional Jeju cuisine. Lunch is W46,000++ on weekdays and W48,000++ on weekends, while dinner will cost W52,000++ f rom Monday to Sunday. 02-6282-6731

Courtyard by Marriott Seoul Eve r y d ay i n Nove mb e r, t h e Cou r t ya rd by Ma r r iot t Seou l Times Square will be holding a wine sale. They have purchased exciting wines from regions such as Aust ralia, It aly, Chile and France at low prices and will be passing those savings on to you. For a small corkage fee you can enjoy a bottle in MoMo Café or MoMo Bar, and they’ll even throw in a complimentary appetizer as well. 02-2638-3081

First Place in Customer Satisfaction Survey

38 10 Magazine November 2010

InterContinental Hotels Seoul The InterContinental Hotels Seoul we r e r a n ke d f i r st i n t he hot el category of the National Customer Satisfaction Index (NCSI) for the fifth consecutive year. The survey, which examined ten five-star luxury hotels in Korea, was conducted t h r ou g h i nt e r v ie ws w it h 10 0 0 foreigners who had stayed in one of the hotels for more than two nights. The InterContinental Hotels Seoul were also chosen as the favorite hotel by CEOs in Korea and were ranked first in the Korean Standard Service Quality Index (KS-SQI).

The Ritz-Carlton Seoul Macrobiotic cooking is an eco-friendly way of preparing meals which emphasizes the use of seasonal ingredients for healthy eating. For a taste of macrobiotic cuisine, visit The Garden, Oksan Buffet or Ritz Deli restaurants at The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul through November 14th. The menu for the month includes organic brow n r ice r isot to, yam and cereal steak, and sliced tenderloin with a blueberry onion tower. Dining options start at W58,000++. 02-3451-8271

Renaissance Seoul Hotel The new Executive Chef at the Renaissance Seoul Hotel is Witold Szczechura, originally from Warsaw, Poland. A 20-year veteran of Marriott International, he has worked in the Warsaw Marriott Hotel, the Cebu City Marriott Hotel, the Shenyang Ma r r iot t Hot el a nd t he J W Marriott Chongqing. He gained familiarity with Korean cuisine during a previous stint in the country and intends to create dishes that represent the unique style of Korean traditional food. 02-2222-8620

Ladies, Let’s Party! Package

Marriott Executive Apartments Starting this month, the Marriott Executive Apartments offer a onebedroom suite with a full kitchen and living room for a swanky time with your f r iends. Par t y favors include a f loor-to-ceiling view of Yeouido, compliment ar y Evian moisture spray, mini-bar snacks, a welcome drink for three guests, and a free complimentary breakfast-inbed for three. Try out the Ladies, Let’s Par ty! package on Friday, S a t u r d ay o r S u n d ay n ig ht fo r W320,000++. 02-2090-8000

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

I’ll Be at Haeundae for Christmas

Seacloud Hotel T h e S e a c l o u d H o t e l ’s Ch r ist mas package is a good reason to choose Busan as this year’s holiday destination. On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, your room will be adorned with a Christmas tree with bright lights and a basket filled with wine, cheese and fruit. The package is W300,000+ for a superior halfocean view with only W200,000+ for a second day. Reserve 30 days early for 5% off or 15 days early for 3% off. 051-933-1000

The Perfect Package for Fall Lovers

Imperial Palace Hotel This month, the Imperial Palace Hotel offers couples the Fall in Love Package, which includes breakfast buffet for two at Café Amiga and a Deluxe Room for W230,000++. If you’re going alone, try the Fall in Autumn Package for a night in a Deluxe Room and room service breakfast for W200,000++. Korean teas and snacks are available at the Delmar lobby lounge Available Friday, Saturday, and Sunday through November 28th. 02-3440-8000

Chinese Cuisine for the Fall

Busan Lotte Hotel The chef at the Busan Lotte Hotel’s C h i n e s e r e s t a u r a n t D o r i m (43r d f l o o r) h a s s o m e t a s t y s e a s o n a l recommendations. The Manwolgasang course (滿月歌聲) is made up of chilled salmon salad, sea urchin eggs in shark fin soup, lobster soup, and black pig and asparagus stir-fry (W128,000). There’s also the Manseonggongmu course (萬星共舞), with Hong Shao sea urchin eggs with shark fin soup, sea cucumber with abalone, and beef and lotus root stir-fry in XO sauce (W88,000). 051-810-6340

The Deli Restaurant Opens at Hyundai Department Store

The Grand Hyatt Seoul G r a n d Hy a t t S e o u l j u s t opened up a European delicatessen at the main Hyundai Department Store in Apgujeong. The deli features a variety of fresh pastries, chocolates, cookies, cakes, sandwiches, salads and more. Danish and croissants are among the breakfast favorites prepared fresh each day in The Deli’s kitchen. Other items of interest include chocolates, cookies, and cakes and a selection of coffees, spices, and other gourmet specialties. 10:30 am - 8 pm. 02-3449-5134 10 Magazine November 2010 | 39

November 20th

The Flaming Lips in Korea Otherworldly. Psychedelic. Bizarre. Magical. Imaginative. Those are several words used to describe the music and live performances of the Flaming Lips, known as a legend in indie rock circles. Even after 25 years in the music industry, they continue to produce eccentric and innovative albums like Yoshimi Battles the Pink Robots that fans and critics alike can’t stop raving about. In 2003 and 2007, they were awarded Grammys, and in 2009, Oklahoma declared “Do You Realize?” as the official rock song of the state. Known for their acclaimed live shows, The Flaming Lips are coming to Korea for the first time to lift their audiences off the ground and into an outer space musical nirvana. AX-Korea (formerly Melon AX-Hall) near Gwangnaru Stn. (liine 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W99,000. 02-1544-1555 Words by A ngela lee





















by Pa u l M at t he w s

Resident Evil: Afterlife Directed by Paul W. S. Anderson I’m a big fan of zombie apocalypse movies. Give me a film with a horde of undead fellows chomping on the brains of the innocent and I’ll be a happy man–in most cases. However, the fourth Resident Evil film has left a bad taste in my mouth (and no, it’s not the brains). Picking up where Resident Evil: Extinction left off, our hero Alice (Milla Jovovich) is wandering the world in search of other humans whilst trying to avoid being snacked upon by the undead or assassinated by the Umbrella Corporation. What follows is

Despicable Me

* * *

Directed by Pierre Coffin and Chris Renaud If you’ve experienced the genius of Toy Story 3, any animated film thereafter is always going to suffer from comparison and Despicable Me is no exception to the rule. Take my words with a pinch of salt, but 2010 has seen a bumper crop of fantastic animations and unfortunately this quirky comedy isn’t in the running for best kids’ movie of the year. Starring a rather annoying Steve Carell as Gr u (a sof thearted supervillain), the film follows his adventures after he is thwarted by new kid on the block Vector and decides to prey 42 | 10 Magazine November 2010

a poor homage to Prison Break, The Walking Dead comics and countless other zombie flicks that have come before. With faux-Matrix-style shots and a love of tedious slow motion action sequences, Paul W.S. Anderson has managed to produce something both ridiculous and boring that will leave you asleep in your seat dreaming of the days when George Romero was king and zombies only ever walked at a snail’s pace. Avoid this piece of trash: even those of you with a soft spot for the living dead will find it hard to swallow.

upon three innocent orphans to help him win the day. Hijinks ensue as the orphans prepare for their ballet recital and Gru prepares to steal the moon. It’s amusing in places, the kids are cute, and Gru’s little yellow “minions” steal a lot of the scenes; but Despicable Me is not destined to be remembered as one of the greats. It’ll pass the time and keep the kids amused on a rainy Sunday afternoon or on a long plane journey, but it’s not worth going out of your way to see this vaguely enjoyable cartoon.

Troubleshooter 해결사

New This Month (dates are subject to change) Thursday, November 4th

Aftershock China Jingchu Zhang, Daoming Chen; dir. Xiaogang Feng. In the chaos of the devastating Tangshan Earthquake of 1976, a mother is forced to choose between saving her son or her daughter. The Boy from Ipanema 이파네마 소년 Korea/ Japan Su-hyuk Lee, Min-ji Kim; dir. Gi-hoon Kim. Nursing broken hearts, a man and woman who meet on a beach must let go of old loves in order to experience a new love. No Doubt 돌이킬 수 없는 Korea Jeong-jin Lee, Tae-woo Kim, In-gi Jeong; dir. Su-young Park. A father has no trouble finding the kidnapper of his seven-year-old child, but evidence to convict him is harder to come by. Red USA Tom Sizemore, Brian Cox, Noel Fisher, Kyle Gallner, Shiloh Fernandez; dir. Trygve Allister Diesen, Lucky McKee. When his beloved dog is killed by three teens, an old man decides to get even.

follows orders at first, but uses his detective skills to try to find out who is tormenting him and why. It’s hard-boiled 70s-style action all the way in this fast-paced thriller that takes you through a manic twentyfour hours in Seoul. The fight scenes are brutal and brilliant, with a twisted plot that keeps you guessing. It’s violent fun that pays homage to William Friedkin, Francis Ford Coppola and Paul Greengrass. There’s no CGI or big budget special effects, just good old-fashioned stunt choreography and a first-time director who lands firmly on his feet. If you like your thrillers with a funky soundtrack, a dark sense of humour and plenty of fist fights, then see this as soon as you can. Edited by s o n g le e and Dav i d Ca r ruth Thursday, November 18th

The Social Network USA Jesse Eisenberg, Andrew Garfield, Justin Timberlake; dir. David Fincher. This comedydrama draws upon Ben Mezrich’s 2009 nonfiction work The Accidental Billionaires to tell the tale of how Facebook began. Let Me In USA/UK Chloe Moretz, Kodi Smit-McPhee, Richard Jenkins; dir. Matt Reeves. The vampire trend continues with this adaptation of the highly regarded Swedish novel and movie Let the Right One In. Saw 3D USA Tobin Bell, Costas Mandylor, Betsy Russell; dir. Kevin Greutert. The seventh and final chapter in this grisly series uses 3D filming to bring even more gore to the screen. Festival 페스티발 Korea Ha-gyun Shin, Ji-won Uhm, Hye-jin Shim; dir. Hae-young Lee. This respectable neighborhood’s daytime decency conceals a series of bizarre and hilarious nighttime escapades.

Thursday, November 11th Thursday, November 25th

The Disappearance of Haruhi Suzumiya Japan Aya Hirano, Tomokazu Sugita; dir. Tatsuya Ishihara. This animated film is an adaptation of the fourth volume in the popular Haruhi Suzumiya series about high school student Haruhi and her SOS club. Psychic 초능력자 Korea Dong-won Gang, Su Go; dir. Min-su Kim. Gyunam is the only man immune to a psychic’s mind control, and he’s also the only man who can stop him after he witnesses him commit a chilling murder. Unstoppable USA Denzel Washington, Chris Pine, Rosario Dawson; dir. Tony Scott. Countless lives are at stake as a train conductor and engineer race to stop a runaway train filled with chemicals. Wednesday, November 17th

Don’t Come Knocking USA Sam Shepard, Jessica Lange, Tim Roth; dir. Wim Wenders. Has-been Western movie star Howard (Shepard) runs away from the set of his latest film in search of a woman from his past.

The Switch USA Jennifer Aniston, Jason Bateman, Patrick Wilson; dir. Josh Gordon, Will Speck. Sperm-swapping leads to paternal uncertainty in another comedy based on artificial insemination. tba

Towelhead USA Summer Bishil, Aaron Eckhart, Peter Macdissi; dir. Alan Ball. Set during the First Gulf War, this drama depicts the coming of age of a 13-year-old Lebanese-American girl. Scooping Up The Moonlight 달빛 길어올리기 Korea Su-yeon Gang, Jung-hoon Park; dir. Gwon-taek Lim. This drama tells the story of people working to restore the one text that survived the destruction of the Chronicles of the Joseon Dynasty centuries ago. El Mal Ajeno (For the Good of Others) Spain Belén Rueda, Eduardo Noriega, Angie Cepeda; dir. Oskar Santos. The life of emotionally distant doctor Diego (Noriega) changes when he is attacked by the partner of one of his patients.

10 Magazine November 2010 | 43


Directed by Hyeok-jae Kwon I rarely see Seoul caught on film the way I view it, but this new release from first-time director Hyeok-jae Kwon manages to capture the grey smoggy skies and looming skyscrapers of the city that we know and love. With car chases, grizzled cops and corruption, the film has a 1970s-New York feel about it, harking back to The French Connection and other great American thrillers of that time. Tae-shik Kang (played by Kyeonggu Seol, star of Haeundae and Silmido), a former cop turned private investigator, is framed for a crime he didn’t commit. He is forced to go on the run and kidnap a witness in a major court case that could change the way the country is governed. Tae-shik

Bitches Brew Sony Legacy There are only a handful of jazz artists who, through the long and storied histor y of that gen re, have managed to enter a t ra nscendent plane wherein the musical form delineates entirely new directions and styles. One of the most important figures in this transcendent jazz is Miles Davis, and one of the milestone albums that demonstrate this process fully is 1969’s Bitches Brew. Superlatives abound when this seminal work is referenced. All its other virtues notwithstanding–and there are many–the part Bitches Brew played as the formative work in electric/fusion jazz is unassailable. This legacy re-issue, with its 2-CD musical offering and an accompanying DVD (of a concert recorded in Copenhagen three months after the album’s release) is, to put it bluntly, one of the essential musical requirements of any collection. It is simply too important not to be included. The original six tunes are here in all their glory, fleshed out by some “jazz singles” which, while somewhat novel, serve basically to offer hints at Miles’ future musical direction. This album bridges the gap between In A Silent Way, another of Davis’ seminal works, and his later eclectic electric efforts (such as 1974’s Dark Magus) and showcases the artist at his creative zenith. If Miles had stopped at this point, his place in the jazz pantheon would have been assured; it is to our (and jazz music’s) everlasting good forby Michael Berry tune that he did not!

The Black Angels

Phosphene Dream Blue Horizon I f you l i ke you r ro ck mu sic t i nge d w it h g u it a r- d r iven psychedelic infusions and pu nct u ated by vocal reverbe r at ion s a nd mu sical stringency, look no further than the third and latest album from the Austin, Texas quintet The Black Angels. While it’s pretty easy to analyze the patterns presented by the drone-guitar that underpins most of the cuts on the album, one listen offers up a veritable cornucopia of influences that augment the sound in numerous ways. Alex Maas seems to derive his vocal style (or styles) from luminaries as diverse as Jim Morrison, Lou Reed, Ian Astbury, and Ju st i n Su l l iva n , wh ile t he music itself shifts among neopsychedelic Brit post-pun k (“Bad Vibrations”), surf/drone mu sic (“ Hau nt i ng at 130 0 McKinley”), The Doors-meetThe Cult with some Velvet Underground to add spice (“River of Blood”), and a smidgen of The Stooges (“Entrance”). There are even some elements that stray further afield like the vaguely alt-country vibe of “True Believers” and the quasi-folk woven through the title track. However, it is the psychedelic drone of the guitar that stands in the vanguard and creates the overall somber mood. This would be a great album to put on to get any Halloween party started by M i c h a e l B e r ry in fine style!


To Anyone YG Entertainment In 2NE1’s longawaited first fulllength album, To Anyone, the musical inf luences are just as mixed as the messages. “Can’t Nobody” shows us the girls dancing their way through independence by invoking the girl-power narrative set against a backdrop of consumerdriven culture. Next up is an inspiring diatribe about the perceived pitfalls of being single, though the group misses a step with its somewhat baffling music

video in which an abusive ex-boyfriend is brutally murdered. 2NE1 truly excels when they stop trying to make banner statements about 21st womanhood and instead sing fun, unencumbered hymns to being young like “Clap Your Hands” and “Kiss.” The album’s confused intentions make it less hypocritical than simply puzzling, suggesting the impossibility for girls who aren’t even allowed to date to create a genuine feminist by A n n a O r z e l manifesto.

Books While charges of Franzefreude fill the litera-sphere, the bestseller list is more than 50% female authors. This month, we look at their work, from the horrible to the sublime. The Help Kathryn Stockett, W18,000 544 pages Coffee cups will slosh dangerously as middle-class white women in book clubs earnestly discuss a book so saccharine it could be ground up and used as coffee sweetener. Some have focused on the book’s atrocious approach to dialect—black only, and risible. Would “Eugenia Skeeter Phelan” speak in nearly perfect English? Would all white characters? But worse is the central notion that a brave white woman would be the catalyst for racial change. All the characters are one-dimensional (e.g. the “sassy” maid, the stoic maid, the stock white villain), 44 | 10 Magazine November 2010

and straight out of central casting. Imagine Margaret Mitchell clawed from her grave to set literature and racial discourse back 50 years. If you like that idea, purchase this book. Discarding the need for insulin (or whiskey), we move on to… * * * Half Broke Horses: A True-Life Novel Jeanette Walls, W18,000 272 pages If you like true grit, salty grits, and giddy-ups, this is for you. A “true-life novel,” it tells the story of Lilly Smith, the author’s mother, from her early days living in a dirt dugout through a lifetime filled with challenges. A plucky hero and resolute foe of prejudice, Smith is represented naturalistically and in flat diction that typically refuses to make judgment. When Walls

Courtesy of YG Entertainment

Miles Davis


The iPad:


A bitter pill—er, tablet—to swallow

et’s set aside arguments about why Nambia has seen an official launch of Apple’s much-lauded iPad before Korea and examine the thriving grey market in the back streets of Yongsan and in the Craigslist classifieds that offers the iPad to anyone in Korea. Anyone willing to pay premium, that is. Even the high prices (the wifionly, 16GB model goes for between W700,000 and W800,000 depending on whether it is used or still in the original packaging) haven’t stopped people from picking up the lust-inducing iPad—including me. I got my 16GB version at perhaps the lowest price possible: retail. Which is to say I had a friend buy one for me in the US and ship it to me here. Add in sales tax in the great state of Louisiana, FedEx and import duties into South Korea (around W60,000) and the exchange rate all totaled came to a fraction under W700,000. And the verdict? After almost two weeks of use, the jury is still out. The iPad is a strange mix of Apple’s trademark polish and usability but lacks even the simplest of capabilities of its older cousin the iPhone, which can multitask like a champion and charges through my Macbook’s USB port. The iPad by contrast require some real juice from a wall socket. In addition, not having been released in Korea, few Korea-centric apps are optimized for its larger screen and as of yet there is no practical way to enter Korean with the keyboard. Hopefully these and a slew of other missteps will be addressed in the firmware upgrade slated for this month. And that couldn’t come too soon.

“Room,” a captive of Old Nick, for seven years, and suspecting Old Nick might lose his house, she intuits that would mean death, and escapes. The rest of the story, as remarkable as its beginning, chronicles the attempts of Jack and his Ma to adapt to an outer world that has changed, for Ma, and is entirely new and often confusing to Jack. Room is narrated by Jack in a remarkably affecting 5-year old voice, and one that never grows too cutesy or grates. Jack’s voice stunningly portrays the change from the “womb” of Room, to an outside world that is infinitely complicated. Shortlisted for the Booker Prize, this is a must buy.

nationwide Overseas Accommodation


does use dialect, or slang, it seems to fit her characters fully. Lilly squeezes the experience of ten average lives into her one life, surviving by any means necessary. There is a bit of romanticizing in this work, but the story is well-told, and the characters, while not Shakespearian, are entertaining. Returning readers of Jeanette Walls will likely judge this book not as good as her previous work, Glass Castle, but it’s still worth taking a look at. * * * Room Emma Donoghue W25,490 (hardback) 321 pages Room attempts much, and achieves much. For five-year old Jack, “Room” is the universe: he was born there, grew up there, and as the book opens might die there. Jack’s Ma has been in

by S ta ff o r d L u m sd e n

Despite this, some wonder whether the iPad is in danger of being squeezed out before it even launches. This month Samsung officially announced its Galaxy Tab. Based on the well-received Galaxy series of mobile phones running Google’s Android operating system, Samsung’s offering at 7 inches is half the size of the iPad and comes with the complete integration with Google search and Gmail that the Android has become famous for. There are also a number of nice touches by Samsung including a so-called Media Hub, which makes music and video much easier to play than having to run everything through iTunes as is the case with the iPad. In a departure from Apple, perhaps reflecting the Korean giant’s experience at home and its hopes for the American market, Samsung is initially only launching a 3G version of the device, meaning consumers will have to sign up for sometimes costly data plans with a Korean telecom. In the US, the Galaxy Tab will be available on all carriers, so consumers can expect at least a subsidy for being locked into lengthy contracts. In Korea though, Samsung has remained tight-lipped on both a launch date and potential price for the Galaxy Tab. There is definitely a market for this kind of device—look at the lengths Koreans (and me) are going to to get their hands on an iPad. But the lack of a wifi version is a bit off-putting. There will be barriers in place for foreigners who want one in terms of contracts and pricing, and given Samsung’s rift with KT over the iPhone it is unlikely we will see the Galaxy Tab on any other carrier than SK Telecom. If Apple were to move aggressively now, they might just find even more of an opening in the market as a result. And the market here is definitely bigger than in Namibia.

Villa Orchid


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Hotlines Emergency  119 Police 112 Directory Assistance  114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

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Investment Assistance KOTRA  Invest Korea 

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Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 100-768 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul  02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행)  02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express  02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank  02-6730-1718 Citibank 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank  02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China 02-399-0368 BNP Paribas  02-317-1700 HSBC 02-311-0060 Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of listed foreign banks.

10 Magazine November 2010 | 45

Food Review

Tacos for the Urban Cool Naked Bar & Grill

This cool urban garage-turned-restaurant is perfect both for partying at night with groovy vibes and for enjoying decent conversation during the day. W o rds a n d s h ot s b y G i t t e Z s c h o c h




aked Bar & Grill is the second “naked” restaurant in town. The first joint is in Hannam-dong, which is where Korean-American Johnny Lee moved after he got rid of his famous Taco Truck, the first of its kind in Seoul and long superseded by kebab and Moroccan sandwich carts. Now, with the Itaewon restaurant, Johnny has expanded his operation from supplying the party people with delicious food into offering an übercool hangout. The food is prepared in a half-open, professional-looking kitchen and tastes just as good as Itaewon veterans remember it from the four-wheel days. Recalling Naked’s origins, the Mexican food selection is still the one to go for first. Filled with finely chopped tomatoes, onions, pickles, cabbage, tender meat and other fresh stuff, the soft LA-style tacos are a treat, with delicious guacamole to give it an edge. The chili cheese fries are listed as appetizers, yet they come in a sufficient size to be a dish in themselves. The fries have just the right texture, and with the melted cheese and beef, they form a pleasing heap of multicolored nourishment. They were without a doubt the best fries I’ve ever eaten in this city! The hamburgers do get positive reviews, especially for the juicy beef patty, though the buns were a little sweet for my personal taste. But for W6,000, the Naked Burger is still a delicious bargain. For the more health conscious, there is a whole page in the menu dedicated to salads. The standard Caesar’s Salad we ordered looked posh, matching the urban design of the place (wavy and edgy mirror designs, unfinished concrete, purple ceilings, interesting wire figures, huge screens). The layered lettuce base was covered with heavy vinaigrette, which did not really add to the notion of freshness and lightness that make a salad a salad. But due to its exquisite presentation, this was forgivable. The specials come last: Tuesdays are taco nights, which means one taco is only W3,000 if you also order a drink. Thursdays are ladies’ nights, when one drink sells for a mere W1,000 for females. And drinks are not lacking, with half the menu listing the various liquid options. And with groovy vibes, a chilled environment, and beautiful people, you may find yourself staying at Naked long after the main course is complete.

* English menus Allowed Vegetarian selections Yes Reservations: Yes Shots by Gitte Zschoch and Matthew Crompton* 46 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Inexpensive food selections, extensive drink menu Cocktails a bit on the pricey side W6,000—W18,500

02-794-4225 Daily from 4 pm to 4 am, Thu - Sat until 6 am 120-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Shot by Kyle Burton


Espresso Shots for Big Shots In keeping with its name (which means “honey” in French and Spanish), coffee shop Miel tastefully drips patches of soft, yellow light on various areas of the cafe, creating intimate spots in a large space. The place is consciously chic. For example, the phone number on the business card has the country code. The rugged walls of uneven brick combine with postmodern fixtures carved from light wood to create a place that would make a stylish inclusion on a date. With its thoughtfully assembled dining menu, Miel will also fit the bill if your date is impressed by big spending. This kind of design in Cheongdam-dong isn’t cheap. Seoul, Gangnam-gu, Cheongdam 2-dong 94-3. 11 am – 1 am. 02-512-2395 Words by A ndr ay A br a h a mi a n

Where the Food Does the Talking Tucked away in an alleyway off Itaewon’s main drag, Irani is an unassuming four-table restaurant that serves Iranian kebabs with straight-forward finesse. Stand-out dishes include a lamb kebab that comes slightly charred on the outside, pink and tender within, and a fish kebab made with generous chunks of lightly barbecued salmon. Kebidah—an Iranian special minced beef kebab—is also a good choice. Kebabs are accompanied by salad, rice and a pair of juicy, grilled tomatoes. Yogurt and hot bread are optional extras. Warm service and ice-cold glass bottles of cola round off the experience, ensuring that this Iranian restaurant leaves a lasting impression. From Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 1), walk 100 meters then turn right. The restaurant is up the hill across from Chili King. 02-793-5772 Words and shot by Da niel O’ Su lli va n 10 Magazine November 2010 | 47



Sketch and the City

This expat-led club helps aspiring artists find inspiration for their work on the streets of Seoul. W o rds b y S ta c e y S i e b r i t z

on’t be shy!” That’s the advice I receive from Mike Stewart, creator of Sketch and the City, as I attempt to hide the rough scribbles in my sketchbook. This encouraging, relaxed attitude is typical of SATC, which brings together artists of all abilities to try their hands at drawing and painting in various locations around Seoul. Mike, a printmaker and art teacher in Myeongdong, decided to set up the class to get people out of the studios and away from the habit of working exclusively from photographs. For the minimal fee of W10,000, he provides easels, drawing boards, water buckets, and plenty of friendly advice at a pre-arranged Seoul location. Previous SATC locations have included the bustling streets of Myeongdong, Chinatown, and even a pole-dancing class. Clearly, inspiration can be found anywhere. The response from participating businesses, and the community in general, has been incredibly positive—so much so that this year Mike was invited to bring SATC to the Seoul Drum Festival. The philosophy behind SATC is this: “Don’t try to create art – just create.” As a newbie to the class and a participant in SATC’s “Sketch The Dance,” I realized early on that it was not the time to strive for something perfect, polished or even finished. More than anything, SATC is an opportunity to have fun with art, let go of results and see where it takes you. Everyone is welcome, from beginners to more experienced artists. Try it, and see for yourself. And don’t be shy. Sketch and the City takes place every month. For regular updates, join the Facebook group “SATC:Sketch and the City.” For more information, please visit

48 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Shots provided by Sketch and the City, from top left: Nathalie Steinmetz, Mike Stewart, Mike Stewart in Myongdong and China Town


All The Sports You Can Handle Under One Roof!

8 Giant Flat-Screen TVs – Not a Bad Seat in the House

Blue Spirit A Dance Club in the Purest Form

Wednesdays Sports Trivia Night

Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm Saturday & Sunday Build Your Own Brunch from 11 - 3 pm *with drink purchase (10-rib minimum)

W o rds b y S e b a s t i e n R o u s s e t


ove it or hate it, Hongdae has more clubs than Tiger Woods. Some end up visiting the same venues, week in and week out; others prefer to keep looking for something new and different. Ben@Blue Spirit is one such back-alley find hidden right in the heart of Hongdae. As you enter, you’re presented with the firstfloor lounge area. Nothing to write home about, but it certainly serves its purpose. The lounge has a nice vibe, and beverages are reasonably priced. Starting at W35,000, patrons can order the beer set, which includes 6 beers and a table. Being the club fiend that I am, however, I soon found myself being lured towards the thumping music rumbling from the basement. The basement clubbing area, with a capacity of 400, is a far cry from being a mega club. There’s no red carpet entrance or hanging chandeliers: it’s dark and it’s uncomplicated. Yet, in minimizing physical clutter, Blue Spirit has maximized itself in a basic element rarely accomplished by the mega club—intimacy. The atmosphere of the club, due to the “underground/basement� setup and the top-notch, full-mouthed dirty electro being spun, was, in a word-fantastic. The crowd was there for one reason, and one reason only—to have a damn good time. No pretentiousness. No judging. No insecurities. Best of all, the fervent kinship between the crowd, music and DJs alike was something I’ve sincerely missed in Seoul and is unquestionably why Blue Spirit, with its purist sensibilities, stands strong amongst the masses. Relaxed H o u r s 10 pm - 4 am W15,000 at the door, W10,000 pre-booking. TEL 02-6407-8871 Add 360-18 Seokyo-dong Mapo-gu, Seoul Exit 5 of Hongdae Stn. Subway line 5,

Tuesdays W500 BBQ Pork Ribs*

Put Your Stomach Where Your Mouth Is... Finish our 72 oz (2kg) Rib-eye Steak Challenge under an hour and Sam Ryan's Picks Up The Tab!

Business Hours

Mon – Fri: 4 pm ‘til Late Sat – Sun: 10:30 am ‘til Real Late tTBNSZBODPN

D r e ss C o d e Price

Images provided by B en @B lu e Spir i t

During the day affordable meals are served at the club.

10 Magazine November 2010 | 49


Mexican Mondays W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion


November 25th - 28th Korea International Sign & Design Show An invitation to everyone to promote their new products, collect market information, and find the best partners to export by BMC (Buyer Marketing Center). COEX (Convention & Exhibition Centre) Hall C near Samsung Stn. (line 2). 02-6000-1108



Every Saturday Hongdae Free Market It’s called “free,� not “flea,� because the objects on sale here are hand-crafted by the vendors and not second-hand products. Held in the playground across from Hongik University (line 2). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum. net/artmarket,

5SBJOFEBUToni&GuyBOEVidal Sassoon Academy JO6,


Through November 2nd Michael Anderson Solo Exhibition “Happy Mascots� Colorful oil on canvas paintings by Michael Anderson. Jay Gallery SkHub Art Center in Jongno. 02-2666-4450 Through November 7th The Masters of Korean Modern and Contemporary Art Explore Korean art history. With the help of Korea University Museum, this extensive exhibition showcases 65 paintings and sculptures by 48 distinguished modern and contemporary artists. These artwork focus on “People,� “Landscapes and Still Life,� and “Abstract Artworks.� 63 Sky Art at the 63 Building. 10 am - 10 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W11,000, children W10,000. 02-789-5663 Over The Rainbow 1 Nine artists present Dorothy as she makes nine bizarre journeys through time and space. Sungkok Art Museum near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5). 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W5,000, students W4,000. 02-737-8999 Through November 14th White Porcelain Jars: Embracing Joseon Ideals and Rituals These delicate and intricately designed white porcelain jars shed light on the Joseon Dynasty. National Museum of Korea. Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am - 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am - 8 pm. Sun 9 am - 7 pm. 02-2077-9000 Movies in Seoul: 70s and 80s Last year’s exhibit was on movies from the 50s and 60s. This year’s material is on the next two decades. Cheonggyecheon Museum. Free. 02-2286-3410 Through November 17th Media City Seoul The 6th Seoul international Biennale of Media Art’s theme is untitled Trust. Seoul Museum of Art and other venues. Tues - Fri 10 am - 9 pm, weekends 10 am - 6 pm. Closed on Mon and holidays. Free. Through November 18th “Showing Up� Exhibit The work of Jinyong Jeong, Yeong-jin Jang, Jae-hun Lee, Jung-hyeon Park, and Ahn Lee. Thru Gallery in Itaewon. 11 am - 7 pm, Sun noon - 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. 02-3444-9700 Through November 21st Korean Avant-Garde Drawing Takes a closer look at some of the best drawings of the past 30 years. Soma Museum in Songpa. 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. 02-425-1077

50 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Through November 28th

Inside Paul Smith See inside the inspired world of artist Paul Smith as he opens his collections of paintings, photos, album covers, and various artwork by world-renowned artists Banksy, Coner Harrington, Luke Caulfield, Mark Quin, and others to the public. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum in Jongno. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W4,000, students W2,000. 02-720-0667 Photography of Sibylle Bergemann Featuring 150 photographs by German Sibylle Bergemann, whose idiosyncratic work quietly defied the socialist art predominant in East Germany at the time. Museum of Art at Seoul National University. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. 02-880-9504 Scenes from the Korean War The violence and horror of the Korean war are recorded in these 100 paintings. Museum of Art at Seoul National University. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. 02-880-9504 Through December 26th “Flight� Exhibit A number of young Korean artists explore the themes of youth, challenge, and the future. Mapo Art Center near Ewha Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free Through February 27th Leonardo da Vinci: The Genius Who Changed The World Discover the 25 secrets of the Mona Lisa. The War Museum in Yongsan near Samgakji Stn. (lines 4 & 6, ex. 12). 10 am - 6 pm. General W15,000, children W12,000. 1544-1555 November 7th - 28th “Gyeongbokgung: Unexpected Ways� Exhibit by Blair Kitchener These black-and-white photos of Gyeongbokgung are inspired by French photographer Eugene Atget’s shots of the French palace Versailles. Le Saint-Ex in Itaewon. 02795-2465 November 7th - January 6th Perceptions: Solo Exhibition by May Nef Artwork reflecting the artist’s perception of pictures of Lebanon. Casa Antonio in Itaewon. 02-794-8803 November 13th - 27th Solo Exhibit by Vincent Troia Entitled “I Could Taste Your Lipstick on The Filter,� this exhibition by Detroitbased artist Vincent Troia will be held at the Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebanchon (near Noksapyeong Stn. line 6). 010-9518-9333 November 30th – March 27th Tomb Murals of the Four Guardian Deities from Gangseodaemyo The Gangseodaemyo burial mounds in

Nampo in North Korea, which date back to 7th century Gogryeo, contained exqusite murals depicting the four sacred beasts from Chinese mythology. National Museum of Korea, Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm, Sun 9 am – 7 pm. 02-2077-9000

percussion, and music. City Hall Station. 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. 02-751-1500


Theater & Dance

Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 & 6 pm. W50,000. 02-323-5233 Billy Elliot: The Musical Since its release in 2005, the musical Billy Elliot (based on the 2000 movie) has won dozens of awards and has been staged successfully in major venues across the worldwide. In Korean. LG Arts Center by Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, weekends 2 & 7:30 pm. Closed Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. 02-2005-0114 Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekend 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). 02-2263-9742 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno in Seoul (Hyehwa Station, exit 1). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. drawingshow 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs. Conveniently located at the 63 Building in Yeouido. Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 - W50,000. 02-789-5664 Jump First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. 02-722-3995 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a performance can be with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theatre at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. W60,000 and up. 02-455-5000 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance,

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. 02-739-8288


Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genrebending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. 02-2266-3727

Nori Madang Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. At Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. 02-120 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm, weekends at 4 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 – W50,000. 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom An exciting non-verbal dance performance telling the story of three friends’ coming of age. Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W50,000. 070-8249-3023 Through November 7th Theatre Olympics The 5th Theatre Olympics will attract hundreds of performers, directors, and writers from all over the world with the theme of Sarang: Love and Humanity. Performances take place at the National Theater of Korea, Arko City, and the Myeongdong Arts Theater. Detailed schedule available on the website. 02-747-2901 Through November 21st 
 42nd Street: The Musical Awarded The Tony Award for Best Musical, this show is the second longest running American musical in Broadway history. In Korean. Charlotte Theater in Songpa. Mon, Tue, & Thu 8 pm, Wed, Fri, & Sat 3 pm. Closed Sun. W30,000 – W120,000. 1644-0078

Theater & Dance Through November 7th

Extended Run for Without You

As mentioned in our last month’s issue, Anthony Rapp has been presenting a spectacular one-man musical show, based on his memoir entitled Without You: A Memoir of Love, Loss, and the Musical Rent, in Seoul. With his own original music and songs by R.E.M. and Jonathan Larson (writer of Rent), he takes the audience along on an emotional journey of grief, hope, and triumph. Luckily for us, due to popular response and demand, the run of Without You has been extended from the original date of October 31st until November 7th. Hurry and head to KT&G Sangsang Art Hall near Samseong Stn. (line 2). because you never know when he’ll be back in town again. W44,000 - W88,000. 1544-1681 Words by A ngel lee

November 3rd - 15th Korea Mime Festival We would explain this festival through gestures, but we’re pretty sure you can’t see miming it out for your right now. Performances held at Black box Theater right by Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat - Sun 3 & 7 pm. No performance on Mon or 11/15 at 7 pm. W15,000 in advance, W20,000 at the door. Minors W10,000. W50,000 for all shows. 0502-160-8000 November 4th - 5th A Table: the Dance This dance is a reflection on the reliance of humans on priests who themselves are subject to human desires. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. 02-580-1300 November 8th - 10th The Possessed: the Play Based on the novel by 19th century Russian author

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Franz Welser-Möst conducts Cleveland Orchestra.


10’s Classical Music Picks for November

Classical music may not be the first thing that comes to mind about Korea, but connoisseurs of the genre will find more than enough concerts to keep them entertained while in the country. And while Korea has plenty of home-grown talent, there are also regular visits from well-known composers, artists, and even entire orchestras from overseas. This month, tickets are on sale for performances by the China National Symphony Orchestra (11/9 at the Seoul Arts Center), the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra from Amsterdam (11/12 - 11/13 at the Seoul Arts Center), the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra (11/13 at the Sejong Center), and the Cleveland Orchestra (11/21 at the Seoul Arts Center). If the steep prices for these concerts don’t fit in your budget, try the Seoul Phil, which has a couple of free performances this month (11/5, 11/26). For more details, see the concert listings section. Fyodor Dostoevsky. In Korean. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. 02-580-1300 November 17th - 18th Brand New Air: the Dance Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 W50,000. 02-580-1300 November 25th Lulu: the Opera This modern opera combines atonal music with a string of murders for love, jealousy, and worse emotions. Composed by Alban Berg. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 W150,000. 02-580-1300

Concerts Through November 10th Korea-Russia Cultural Festival: Russian Opera and Ballet The music for the closing ceremony of the cultural festival is provided by the Korea Symphony Orchestra. National Theater of Korea. Shuttle available from Dongguk Univ. St. (line 3, ex. 6). 8 pm. 02-2061-6611 October 30th - November 11th Seoul Int’l A Cappella Festival A Cappella groups from Korea and abroad compete on stage.

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November 2nd All That Beethoven: Piano Concertos II Pianist Yeon-ha Lee stars in this performance of Beethoven’s Piano Concertos No.3 and 5 and the Fidelio Overture with the Korean Symphony Orchestra. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 – W50,000. 1588-1210 November 3rd Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Pianist Radu Lupu joins Seoul’s finest orchestra for a performance of Beethoven’s 4th Piano Concerto and Mahler’s Symphony No. 1. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 - W100,000. 1588-1210 November 4th Korean Chamber Orchestra Hear the Korean Chamber Orchestra, conducted by Maxim Vengerov, performing Mozart’s Sinfonia Concertante, Tchaikovsky’s Serenade for Strings, and Mozart’s Symphony No. 41 in C Major “Jupiter.” Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 W200,000. 02-580-1300 November 5th Firenze City Orchestra Hear famous arias from operas including La Traviata, The Barber of Seville, and The Marriage of Figaro. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm.

W20,000 - W60,000. 02-580-1300 Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Free Concert With Myeong-hun Jeong conducting. Mahler’s Symphony No. 1. 11/5: Sungsil High School near Saejeol Stn. (line 6) in Eunpyeong-gu. FREE. 02-351-7203 November 6th Alexander Melnikov Piano Recital On the program are Schubert’s “The Wanderer Fantasie” from Fantasie in C major, Op.15, Brahms’ Seven Fantasies, and Shostakovitch’s Preludes and Fugues Op. 87, 1-12. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000 - W70,000. 02-888-2698

November 6th - 7th FT Island in Concert The name of this five-member K-pop ensemble stands for “Five Treasure Island” (no kidding). 11/6: 7 pm. 11/7: 5 pm. W66,000 - W77,000. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru St. (line 5, ex. 2). 02-517-0394 November 6th, 13th, and 20th Stompers Battle of the Bands Now in its third year, fifteen bands will be judged based on musicianship, stage performance, originality, and crowd response. Stompers is located in Itaewon. stompersbattleofthebands 02-792-1198 November 7th G-20 Summit Seoul Phil Concert Performing Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 and Mahler’s Symphony No. 1. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun St. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. 1588-1210 Tatarstan National Symphony Orchestra Concert Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. 02-580-1300 November 8th An Evening of A Cappella Featuring Niniwe from Germany, Fool-Moon from Hungary, and Cool A Cappella from Korea. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. 02-580-1300 November 9th China National Symphony Orchestra China’s premier orchestra will perform in Korea as part of the 2010 Korea International Music Festival. They will be led by resident conductor Li Xincao and joined by Korean violinist Chee-Yun. The program features S.Prokofieff’s Violin Concerto No.2 g minor Op.63 and R. Strauss’s Ein Heldenleben. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W200,000. 02-744-8060 Jung-Joo Choi Cello Essentials With pieces by Saint-Seans, Schubert, Faure, and Chopin. Hoam Art Hall near City Hall (lines 1 & 2, ex. 9). 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W50,000. 02-706-1481 November 10th The Essence of Korean Symphony Music Mendelssohn’s Concert for Piano and Violin in D minor and Berlioz’s Symphonie Fantastique, Op. 14. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W30,000 W1000,000. 02-744-8060

November 12th Seoul Youth Orchestra chamber Concert Elgar’s Introduction and Allegro for Strings, Mozart’s Sinfonia Concertante, Bottesini’s Concert No. 2 for Double Bass and Orchestra, and Tchaikovsky’s Serenade for Strings. Sejong Center for the Performing Arts . 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. 02-399-1789 ext. 92 November 12th - 13th Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra with Mariss Jansons Named the “World’s Greatest Orchestra” by British music magazine Gramophone in December 2008, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra of Amsterdom will be led by conductor Mariss Jansons. 11/12: Beethoven’s Overture to Leonore and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 4. 11/13: Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto with guest performer Gil Shamam and Brahms’ Symphony No. 4. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W60,000 W420,000. 02-6303-7700


Izumi and Sutch Live in Seoul Sowol Art Hall near Wangshimni Stn. (line 2, 3, Jungang, ex. 9). 7 pm. W35,000 - W45,000. 1566-1369

Kevin Kern Concert La Jardin, Return to Love, and Dance of the Dragonfly. Mapo Art Center near Ewha St (line 2, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. 02-3274-8600

November 13th David Russell Guitar Recital Enjoy the classical guitarist play an assortment of music from Bach, Neves, and Couperin. HOAM Art Hall in near City Hall St. (line 2, ex. 9). 5 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. 02-541-3183 Israel Philharmonic Orchestra with Zubin Mehta Renowned Indian conductor Zubin Mehta will lead the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, which was first founded in 1936 by Jewish musicians who had been driven from Germany. Pianist Kun-Woo Paik will be the guest performer. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun St. (line 5, ex. 8). W70,000 - W350,000. 8 pm. 1577-5266 Mew in Concert This Danish alternative-indie band will perform at AX-Korea near Gwangnaru St. (line 5, ex. 2). Standing room only. 8 pm. W88,000. 02-323-2838 November 14th Mint Concert Sangsang Madang in Hongdae. 5 pm. 02-322-0014 Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra With Sejong-jin Cho on the piano, the Seoul Phil will delight listeners with its rendition of Mahler’s Symphony No. 1 and Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4. Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. 1588-1210 November 15th Night of Russian Maestros: Pianist Vadim Rudenko Recital Chopin’s Sonatas, Brahms’ Variations on a Paganini theme, Rachmaninoff’s Four Musical Moments, and Tchaikovsky’s Concert Suite from the Nutcracker Ballet. Seoul Arts Center . 8 pm. W30,000 W150,000. 02-461-712 November 16th Korean Symphony Orchestra The program includes Mozart’s Overture “Cosi fan tutte” K. 588, Liszt’s Piano Concert No. 1 in Eb major, and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 4 in Eb Major. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 W50,000. 02-523-6258



Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju

Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845

November 17th Great 3B Series: Beethoven 2010 The program features Beethoven’s

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Seoul 48-Hour Film Project

The right haircut makes all the difference. All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON CUT / PERM. / COLORING HAIR SPA / HEAD SPA MAKE UP / STYLING Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9 51-1 Banpodong, Seochogu Seoseok building 5F

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GS Gas St. Seoul National Univ. of Education St. Line 2

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St. Line 3,7,9

Participants in the Seoul 48-hour Film Project, an extension of a worldwide filmmaking competition, will compete on the weekend of November 5th - 7th to see who can create the best short film. Each group will have just two days to write, shoot and edit a completed film. All films will be screened at 7 pm on November 10th and 11th at Broadview Cinema (Sinsa Stn., ex. 1). Come on out to the screening to show your support. The winning film will be announced at the first screening and the group will be awarded a W1 million gift certificate for Han Camera Rental as well as the opportunity for their film to be shown at Cannes.  Words by K y le Burton Overture (Op. 72c), the Triples Concerto for Violin, Cello, and Piano in C Major, Symphony No. 2 in D Major. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 - W40,000. 02-580-1300 Tenor Jose Carreras Concert in Korea Enjoy the famous Italian operatic arias and canzone of famous Catalan Spanish tenor Jose Carreras. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W50,000 - W250,000 02-541-3183 November 18th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra German conductor David Afkham and Latvian violinist Baiba Skride team up with the Seoul Phil for a performance of Beethoven’s Violin Concerto and Brahms’ Symphony No. 1. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. 1588-1210 November 19th - 20th Mapo Art Center Indie Festival Hipsters and indie lovers unite in a 2-day music festival with Trance Fiction, EVE, Nemesis, Romantic Punch, No Brain, Why Not, Go Go Star, and Jay Walker. Mapo Art Center near Ewha St (line 2, ex. 5). W30,000. 02-3274-8600 November 20th Annakei Live in Seoul Attend Annakei’s first show in Korea with melodic guitar strumming of Takashi Masuzaki. Sangsangmadang Concert Hall in Hongdae. 4 & 8 pm. W45,000. 02-582-4098 November 21st Cleveland Orchestra Concert The visit of one of the “Big Five” American orchestras to Seoul is a major event for classical music listeners. The Cleveland Orchestra, conducted by its current music director Franz Welser-

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Most, will perform Debussy’s Prelude to Afternoon of a Faun, Mozart’s Divertimento in D, and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 7. Seoul Arts Center. W74,000 - W280,000. 8 pm. 02-599-5743 November 25th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Shi-Yeon Sung conducts the Seoul Philharmonic as it plays Schumann’s Genoveva Overture, Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 17, and Mendelssohn’s Symphony No. 3 “Scottish.” Special guest American pianist Jonathan Biss. Seoul Arts Center. W10,000 - W50,000. 1588-1210 November 26th Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Free Concert Conductor Shi-Yeon Sung and the Seoul Phil provide a free concert including performances of Mendelssohn’s Symphony No. 3 “Scottish.” Gwanak Culture Center near Seoul National University. 7:30 pm. 02-889-3495

Film Ongoing Dinosaurs Alive 3D Want to time warp 4.6 billion years ago when dinosaurs ruled the world? With the cutting-edge technology of CG, you can! 63 Building, 63 ArtHall Digital 3D Film Section in Yeouido. Please visit the website for further details on prices and times.

Family & Community Ongoing Traditional Cultural Performance “Misuda” Try on traditional garb, snack

Team Gefilte Fish Eye shoots ‘Damned Love’ in Tel Aviv in 2008


Become a model for Marie & M and get a free makeover

on Korean food, and hear the music that might have been played for King Sejong himself. Located at the Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3). 4 pm. W50,000. 02-2261-0512 Through November Namsangol Korean Style Culture Outing Get a dose of Korean style at the Namsangol Hanok Village. On weekdays, try calligraphy, drink tea, wear hanbok, make hanji, or play gugak. On weekends, you can also make masks, play a danso (Korean flute), or dye your hair the natural way. Near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 and 4, ex. 4). 11 am – 5 pm. Prices range from W3,000 – W8,000. hanokmaeul.seoul. 02-2266-6923

November 5th – 14th Seoul Lantern Festival Experience a colorful, scene with over 10,000 of the citizens own lanterns and hope ribbons streaming above the Cheonggyecheon stream in downtown Seoul. 5 - 9 pm. 02-120 November 27th - 28th Seoul Comic World Your one-stop spot for anime, cosplay, and lots of girls who appear to auditioning for the live-action version of Sailor Moon. Mapo. 02-3142-2137

Education & Conferences Every Thursday and Saturday Meeting of the Mindz Language Exchange Want to work on your language skills? This free program is your chance to start. Manhattan in Itaewon. 7 – 9 pm. Through November 30th 60th Anniversary of Korean War Exhibition Celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Korean war by exploring the rich, traditional history of Korea. Lotte World in Jamsil. 02-411-2000

November 9th and 23rd RASKB Lectures Anyone interested in Korean culture, literature, and history will enjoy the RASKB series of lectures held the 2nd and 4th Tuesday of each month. Held at the Somerset Palace Hotel near Anguk Stn. (line 3) at 7:30 pm. W5,000. November 16th Korea Foundation Lecture on Korean Music III Prof. Heather Willoughby of Ewha Womans University will speak on the topic of “Korean Music II: Pansori.” Korea Foundation Cultural Center near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 7 – 9 pm. Free.


Through February 28th Children’s Nanta Activity at COEX Nanta is the popular non-verbal percussion show. Sessions held several times each day. COEX Atium Performance Hall near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). Adults W13,000, children W20,000. 02-739-82888

November 9th Korea Foundation Lecture on Korean Music I Mr. Yong-Shik Lee from the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts will deliver a lecture titled “Korean Music I: Current & Future.” Korea Foundation Cultural Center near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 7 – 9 pm. Free.

November 23rd Korea Foundation Lecture on Korean Music II Prof. Hee-sun Kim of Kookmin University will give a lecture called “Korean Music III : Traditional and Contemporary Gayageum Music.” Korea Foundation Cultural Center near City Hall Stn. (line 2, ex. 9). 7 – 9 pm. Free., November 30th - December 2nd Seoul International Healthcare Expo Ease your mind from the health dangers of our risky world and reorganize your lifestyle to be safe and healthy. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2). General W3,000, preregister for free admission. 02-2000-6371

Sport & Fitness Through November Sanirang Climbing Clinics Every Wednesday, Sanirang Alpine Networks offers hopeful climbers with an open clinic from 9 am - noon. These clinics teach the basics that every alpineer should know. All gear provided. First-timers W25,000, returnees W15,000.

Korean War Exhibition The artifacts, pictures, and videos here tell the story of the Korean War and its effects on the following 60 years. War Memorial near Samgakji Stn. 02-709-3139 Through December 31st UNESCO World Heritages in Korea Learn more about the UNESCO intangible cultural heritages and world heritage sites located in Korea through this photo exhibit. Lotte World with access from inside Jamsil Stn. (line 2 & 8). 02-411-2000 November 4th – 7th EBS English Expo Educators will be provided with effective English language training and the latest teaching information and materials. SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near Hagyeoul St. (line 3, ex. 1). 02-2236-2771 Kids and Edu Expo SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near Hagyeoul St. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am - 6 pm. 02-2236-2771

Sonata K-League Football 7th Seoul vs Daejeon at Seoul World Cup Stadium 3 pm

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients. Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi, bibimbap, and more. Mon – Fri 10 am & 2 pm (special classes on Sat). 02-3446-1607

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Your Guide to Thanksgiving in Seoul W o rds b y A n g e l a L e e



t’s that time of year again! Kick off the holiday season with a genuine Thanksgiving dinner. Whether you’re a local or expat, you can enjoy the various dining and take out options many restaurants, hotels, and catering services have to offer all over Korea. Take advantage of our comprehensive list of locations celebrating Thanksgiving to experience a little piece of home (and food coma).

DINING OUT? Thursday, November 25th Chef Meili’s in Itaewon 3-course meal. Thu - Fri evening. Sat - Sun all day. W35,000. christianmeilinger@ 02-794-7024 Grand Hyatt Seoul’s Paris Grill Your choice of slow roasted turkey, US bacon, or bourbon-braised Black Angus short ribs, paired with a half bottle of wine. 6 - 11 pm. W110,000 (plus 10% of tax and service charge). seoul.grand. 02-799-8161 ext. 2. Hilton Seoul Hotel’s Buffet Restaurant Enjoy a Thanksgiving dinner that includes a glass of champagne and wine. 6 pm. W70,000 (all inclusive). 2 days notice required. grandseoul@hilton. com 02-2287-8271 Hilton Seoul Hotel’s Alpine Deli Buffet offering turkey, herb stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, pumpkin pie, apple strudel, and more. Through December 31st. W165,000 (plus 10% of tax), W195,000+. 2 days notice required. grandseoul@ 02-2287-8271 Suji’s Famous Thanksgiving Dinner Buffet in Itaewon Fresh green salad, seafood chowder soup, roasted turkey, gravy, cranberry sauce, cornbread sausage stuffing, herb stuffing, grilled mixed vegetables, mashed potatoes, pumpkin pie, and a glass of wine or apple cider. 5:30 7:30 pm, 8 - 11 pm. General W45,000 - W50,000, children W25,000 - W30,000 (excluding

tax). Non-refundable cash deposit (20%) should be paid for over 5 people. Reservations required 02-797-3698 Saturday, November 27th Thankgiving Day Potluck Dinner O’ngo Culinary School in Insadong is going to have a potluck Thanksgiving Dinner at their cooking studio complete with all-you-can-eat turkey and all the fixings. It’s W30,000 a person, but if you bring a homemade dish you can save W10,000. 3 – 7 pm. RSVP at 02-3446-1607

EATING IN? John Cook (Seoul, Ilsan, Bundang) Must place order 3 days in advance. Precooked turkey with cranberry sauce for W99,800. Uncooked turkey for W69,800. 02-578-6045 Haddon House Market in Itaewon, W70,000 – 90,000. 02-794-0511 Hannam Market in Itaewon 02-702-3313 Costco (Seoul, Daegu, Daejeon, Ilsan, Busan) EZ Shop Korea (Seoul) Delivery for a small fee. 02-6408-6353 Dragon Hill Lodge in Itaewon Your choice of turkey, ham, or a combination of turkey and ham, including mashed potatoes, turkey gravy or bourbon raisin sauce, beans almondine, dinner rolls, and pumpkin pie. Call ahead and place your order. $99.95. dragonhilllodge. com 02-738-2222 ext. 6716

Still not enough choices for you? See the latest turkey news online at 56 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Gwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a tent (pochamacha) restaurant. W80,000 per person (3 people minimum) includes food, drinks, and guide. Thu – Sat 7 - 10 pm. dan@ 02-3446-1607 Korea Taste Tour Experience culture through cuisine! With your culinary guide, visit a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insadong eateries, stop by a tea house, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks. W80,000 per person, includes food, drinks, and tour guide. Tours are usually Thu – Sun (3 people minimum) 12 – 3 pm. 02-3446-1607 November 17th - 20th Seoul International Food Industry Expo A fusion of traditional and contemporary Korean and international cuisine during a 4-day celebration of food from all over the world. aT Center in Yangjae. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. 02-2232-7911 November 18th - 21st Cooking Show Discover safe and healthy ways to cook for you and your family, witness celebrity chefs in action, and find innovative methods to improve your business. COEX Hall A, B, C, D in Gangnam. Thurs - Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 10 am - 4 pm. General W3,000, groups W2,000. Preregister for free admission. 02-6000-1067 Makgeolli Expo Last year approximately 93,133 people flocked to the expo. Be sure to join the fun this year and enjoy Korea’s traditional rice wine. COEX C Hall in Gangnam near Samsung Stn (line 2). Thu - Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 10 am - 4 pm. General W3,000, free with preregistration. 02-6000-2800 November 25th - 28th Seoul Fancy Food Festival Foodies and businessmen gather to satisfy their hunger and knowledge at this 5th annual exhibition that displays sweets, drinks, organic food, equipment, and trade organizations. Thu - Fri only open to business members, Sat - Sun open to public. 10 am - 5 pm. Free of charge with invitation. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2). 02-2051-3322

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day The best night to experience the Hongdae disco scene. On the last Friday of each month. W20,000 gets you into 20 clubs. 11 pm – 5 am. Buy tickets at participating clubs like NB, M2, and Q-vo. One drink included. Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. 02-790-0793 Every Thursday Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! 9 pm the first Thursday of every month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul brianaylward11@

November 5th Dais for Dance With DJs Lisa Kensington, St80, Sarovia, L, and Soulkast at Ben @ BlueSpirit in Hongdae. 02-3142-5301 November 6th Caribbean Jam Another great party by ICONZ Media. Roofers in Itaewon. 11 pm. W10,000. Dress up like the flag of a Caribbean country for half off Francois K House & Techno Producer & DJ from New York. Club Eden in Gangnam. W33,000 presale. club. November 12th - 14th French Festival in Guro Yuksek in Seoul With DJs Yuksek, Astro Voize, Shut Da Mouth, THERIOTZ!, and ST80. Woobar at the W Hotel. 02-465-2222 November 19th Manege 88 2 French DJs who mix hip hop with electronica. Club Answer in Apgujeong. 010-5595-1909 November 27th The Lyricist Lounge Vol. 3 Singers, lyricists, MCs & rappers: live Jam, cypher, performances, DJs, body art. Keeping the torch burning over the talent in our local. Come support the growing movement! Freebird, Hongdae. Tief Schwarz (Ali Schwarz & Basti Schwarz) House/techno producers & DJs from Berlin. Club Eden in Gangnam. W33,000 presale. eden-eden

Travel Through December Free Shuttle Bus Call now to reserve a seat on a free tourist bus. Lines go from Seoul - Gyeongju, Seoul - Jeonju, and Busan - Gyeongju. 1577-2507 November 6th – 7th RASKB Tour of Tongdo-sa and Haein-sa Temples Visit two of Korea’s three “treasure temples.” Haein-sa is famous for holding the Tripitaka Koreana, the world-famous wood printing blocks for the Buddhist canon. Non-members W219,000. November 7th RASKB Yongmun-sa Temple and Mountain Hiking Tour The temple at Yongmun sa pales into insignificance beside the 170-foot gingko tree that towers over it and guards the entrance to Yongmun Mountain. Non-members W47,400. November 13th – 14th RASKB Land of Exile Tour: Southern Jeolla Province Korea’s deepest South is an unspoiled part of the country that has served as a place of exile for scholars and revolutionaries. Non-members W198,000. November 28th RASKB Malsan Provincial Park Tour Exploring these famous mountains in North Jeolla province will take us to an ancient fortress, a temple filled with Shamanic stone pagodas, and a two-tiered waterfall. Non-members W58,800.


Seoul Automobiles


Guesthouse Korea Jongno 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong 02-3672-1972 Foreigner Assistance


010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available. 921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260. Insurance


INSURANCE For A Free Quote,

Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Hotels/Accommodations Korea’s version of Expedia. 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria  02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard  02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan 010-9071-4641

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center  02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English  02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese  02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-796-2459 Museums

Gahoe Museum 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum 02-3668-2200 War Memorial 02-709-3139 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)  1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)  02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour  Fides Travel Unique Travel Itaewon  Xanadu Travel

02-318-0345 02-755-5470 02-792-0606 02-795-7771

Korean Tours

Adventure Korea


Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

10 Magazine November 2010 | 57

SEOUL DIRECTORY Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic 02-519-8013

Discover the World’s Best Deal!!!




JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Korean Safari 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean Food Tours and Cooking Classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine.  010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours  02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour  02-739-3337 Medical Services

A Plus Dental 

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists.  02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological



Association 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center  02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic Tufts Dental Clinic 

 02-569-8745 02-553-7512


Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center 02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun  02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French  02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church  02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong  02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog  02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church  02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.wcom Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran  02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian   02-440-9000 Onnuri Church  02-793-9686 Somang Presbyterian  02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church  02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284 Classes

Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays.   02-771-2026

Health Focus Ballet for children — Ballet stretching — Salsa dance — Yoga for pregnant women

010-9309-9021 Health Focus Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes starting in November: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. Jai Center for Yoga and Health  02-3443-9642

Jazz Rock Blues R&B Funk KB Bank




Dr. Andrew Park r64/BUJPOBM#PBSE$IJSPQSBDUJD%PDUPS r$FSUJĂ FE*#5r$FSUJĂ FE&YFSDJTFSFIBC Sin-nonhyun St. Exit #6 Subway Line 7 Kyobo bldg.

Woori bank BurgerKing


Gangnam St. Exit #6

Hannam Bridge

Center Plaza Bldg 5F,510

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or

Subway Line 2

(02) 533-5124

APPOINTMENT FREE consultation by appointment

Leaders Music Academy Whether you’re interested in jazz, blues, R&B, or funk, the graduates of Berklee College of Music teaching at this academy can help you achieve your musical goals. Lessons offered for voice, piano, guitar, bass, and drums.   02-6085-8727 / 010-5316-2331 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. html, Gangnam Chiro-Pilates Chiropractic & Pilates If you’re dealing with joint and muscle ailments, English-speaking chiropractic doctor Dr. Andrew Park offers the best treatments to restore balance to your body. Stop in for a free consultation if you have symptoms including neck pain, sore back, headaches, scoliosis, numbness, wrist pain, sports injuries (golf) etc. Seochodong 1307-7 Center Plaza 5F 510. seoulchiropracticinfo.com02-533-5124

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. 02-514-5575

Advertise in our Directory! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! or 02-3447-1610 58 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). 02-532-2101

Studio-X-Fitness An expat-operated, personal and small group training studio. Highly qualified foreign and Korean instructors dedicated to providing the most complete and optimized fitness experience. 02-794-3330

Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes  019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. 010-4998-8722 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.  02-795-1303

Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. 02-797-3698 Toque Itaewon 


Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 



Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. 02-795-9656

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283

BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!  02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. 02-790-0540

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon St.


Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. Itaewon  02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon   02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 



HOLLYWOOD GRILL (3rd floor) Police St.

Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. 02-790-8891

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email us at

Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. 02-3443-4333

10 Magazine November 2010 | 59

SEOUL DIRECTORY Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.  02-797-0488

outlets across Korea.   02-3438-6888

and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.  02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1,  02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.  02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.  02-516-1970


Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here.  02-3461-5680

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong  02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.  02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon  02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. Sinchon:  02-324-0682 COEX:  02-565-0682 Times Square:  02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon  02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon  02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong  02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon Terrific Middle Eastern cuisine from Rhiti Mostaffa, former chef for the Moroccan ambassador to Korea.  02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon  02-790-9441 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.   02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.   070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon  02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon  02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon  02-792-8836 Cafes

Caffé Bene Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 200 Caffé Bene

60 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.  02-793-7232 Ghetto Vox Itaewon Itaewon’s first art and music space. 용산구 이태원동 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 010-3370-2979 Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.  02-325-7808

Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.   02-548-7930 Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am. Closed Sun.  011-9650-7055 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.  02-790-0776 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. 02-3447-1191 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. 010-5775-2327

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsangu, Itaewon-dong.  02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine

Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.  02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks. Noon - 2 am. so_much_more 02-3447-7890

Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club.cyworld. 02-3142-8439

Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice décor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club.  02-325-6218 B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am.  02-749-6164 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.  02-6282-6763 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-0903

Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff.  02-797-8201

Tony’s Aussie Shop Itaewon Authentic Australian food and beer. Open mic night held every Wednesday 8 pm – 11 pm. 455-35 Itaewon-dong Yongsangu.  010-460-54326


W i n e Ba r s Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. dulceysuave.  02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. 02-516-1761 L o u n g e s / P UBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-3336

along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. 02-749-7933

Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar.  02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar

Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. 02-749-7971 Clubs

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu.  02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam New mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.   02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong.  02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.  02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu.  02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie.  mansionseoul@  02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. 02-599-3165

NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd.  02-326-1716 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000.  02-792-6662 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. 02-3143-7573

Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong 02-465-2222 Live Music

02- 325-3914

Just Blues Apgujeong


SoundHolic Hongdae SoundHolic 02-3142-4233 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@  010-8779-1969


Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles. Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.  02-324-6929

Jammers Hongdae

Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ 010-8688-9810 Charity

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores. All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. 02-365-7084 Beauty

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 


Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae


Club Palm Hongdae


Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong 02-549-5490

English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ. Line 2 Hongdae St.

Oakwood Premier Woori Bank Teheranno


InterContinental Hotel

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.  02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.  02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). 02-798-6787

Write your own article for 10 today! i-blog 10 Magazine November 2010 | 61

GYEONGGI CALENDAR Design & Fashion November 18th – 21st International Incheon Design Fair Learn about design and exchange new ideas. Songdo Convensia Hall Conference Rooms 116 - 118 in Incheon. 032-210-1114 ubt


Through November 8th Icheon Art Fair Two thousand art galleries, including photographs and pottery, for art lovers to enjoy. Icheon Art Hall. 10 - 6 pm. Free. 031-644-2100 Through November 30th The Final Cut Period Exhibition Artwork displayed by 9 different artists. Jangheung Art Park Museum. Weekdays 10 – 6 pm. Weekends 10– 5 pm. Closed Mondays. Adults W7,000. Children W5,000. 031-877-0500

Traveler’s Bar & Grill This new expat-run bar near Seohyeon Stn. gives you a good excuse to stay in Bundang—or visit the area if you’re located elsewhere. W o rds a n d s h ot s b y Ba r r i T s ava r i s


ust off the main drag at Seohyeon Stn. in Seongnam (south of Seoul) lies Traveler’s Bar & Grill, a new hot spot for Bundang’s expat contingent. From the day Canadian Jason Creswell opened Traveler’s doors on July 1st of this year, he and his wife So-young have endeavored to make their bar stand out in the sea of nearby drinkeries. Their efforts have paid off: Traveler’s is not your typical waegukin watering hole. As the co-owner of ASK Now-ETO Recruiting, Cresswell has been listening to the needs of expats for years. The menu, created from the suggestions of Gyeonggi expats, satisfies a host of Western cravings. There’s Canadian poutine: french fries smothered in savory brown gravy and real melted mozzarella cheese. Burgers are thick and juicy, salads contain actual romaine, and weekend brunch is served all day. For vegetarians, the menu boasts some of the only veggie burgers in Korea. Cresswell has also launched themed evenings ranging from Wino Wednesdays to Ladies’ Nights on Thursdays. But the appeal of Traveler’s is more than just real cheese and drink specials: Cresswell and So-young strive to create a home away from home for expats. They’ll host a real turkey dinner, fixins’ and all, for Thanksgiving, and a Christmas Eve sleepover, with an exchange of Secret Santa gifts on Christmas morning. “It’s hard for people to be away from home on Christmas,” says Cresswell, who looks forward to spending his holiday right in the bar with his guests. Kristin Beck, who chose Traveler’s for her birthday party in July, sums it up: “It’s the closest thing to a bar back home.” Open from 5pm on weekdays and 12pm on weekends. Bundang line to Seohyun Stn., ex. 6. Walk past KFC and take a left at Starbucks. Traveler’s is straight ahead on the 3rd floor. “Traveler’s Bar & Grill” on Facebook. 010-4591-4869



62 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Through December 12th Hyung-koo Kang Exhibition In celebration of the museum’s 10th anniversary, the drawings of Hyungkoo Kang will be displayed. Yeongeun Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwangju. 10 – 6 pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000, children W4,000. 031-761-0137 No More Daughters and Heroes Exhibition Examining the distinction between male and female in the modern world. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3).Tue - Sun 10 - 6 pm. Fri - Sat 10 - 8 pm. Closed on Mondays and Thanksgiving Day. Adults W3,000, minors W2,000. 031-960-0180 Through December 26th Forgotten War, Divided Country This collection shows you bloody scenes of war through the eyes of Korean artists. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am – 5 pm, weekends 10 am – 8 pm, closed Mon. 02-2188-6000 Through December 27th Korea’s Pioneer Steel Sculptor: Song Young-su Appreciate abstract steel sculptures by avante-garde artist Song Young-su. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon. Weekdays 10 – 5 pm. Weekends 10 – 8 pm. Closed Mondays. W3,000. 02-2188-6000

Korean proficiency a must. Icheon Art Hall, southeast of Seoul. 7 pm. Free. 031-644-2100 November 9th – 10th Russian Mariinski Theater Ballet: Giselle A beautiful ballet with dancers Pavel Bubelnikov, Alina Somova, Viktoria Tereshkina, and others. Aram Nuri Theater in Goyang (Ilsan). Tues 7:30 pm. Wed 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W250,000. 1577-7766 November 12th – 13th Russian Mariinski Theater Ballet: Swan Lake Performed by the School of Ballet at the Mariinsky Ballet. Aram Nuri Theater in Goyang (Ilsan). Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 7 pm. W30,000 – W250,000. 1577-7766 November 27th - 28th Carmen: the Opera Seongnam Arts Center. 5 pm. W25,000 – W55,000. 031-783-8000

Concerts November 2nd A Cappella Festival Take line 4 south from Seoul to see some serious a cappella. The Ansan City Choir is joined by Fool Moon from Hungary and Metro (from the USA) for this night celebrating the human voice. Ansan Arts Center. W5,000 – W12,000. 7:30 pm. 031-481-4000 November 3rd Paris Chamber Orchestra Franz Joseph Hadyn’s Symphony no. 43 “Mercury” and Giovanni Battista Pergolesi’s Olimpiade. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. Adults W10,000 – W30,000, students W5,000. 7:30 - 9 pm. 031-230-3440 November 5th - 7th Schumann’s 200th Anniversary Concert Brahms’ Symphony No. 4 Op. 98 and Schumann’s Manfred. Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center St. W5,000 – W10,000. 7:30 pm. 032-427-8401 November 16th Hyo-shin Park Concert K-pop singer Hyo-shin Park is currently on his Gift II tour. Incheon Samsan World Gymnasium near Bupyeong-gu Office Stn. (Incheon line ex. 2). 7 pm. W66,000 - W110,000. 032-500-4500 November 18th Folksong and Aria Night Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center St. Free. 7:30 pm. 032-320-6300

November 9th – 15th Calligraphy Exhibition Featuring art by the members of the Woodangseo Art Society, held at the Suwon Art Center. 10 am – 6 pm. Free. 031-243-3647

Matinee Concert George Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue, Barber’s Adagio for String Op. 11, and Leonard Bernstein’s Westside Story. Seongnam Arts Center near. W24,000. 11 am. 031-783-8000

Theater & Dance

November 20th Cleveland Orchestra Concert One of America’s top five orchestras will grace Ilsan with a performance of Claude Debussy’s Prélude à l’après-midi d’un faune, Mozart’s Divertimento in D Major, and Beethoven’s 3rd Symphony “Eroica.” Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang (Ilsan). 7 pm. W60,000 W150,000. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). 1577-7766

November 5th - 7th L’Elisir d’Amore: the Opera Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center St. (Incheon line). Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm, 7:30 pm, Sun 5 pm. W20,000 - W150,000. 032-429-0248 November 9th Ballet Bollet Lecture Program This free lecture and ballet demonstration is provided by the Seoul Ballet Theater.

Indie Band Concert Artists include Daybreak, No Reply, Guckkasten, and 10cm. Haenuri

Theater at Bupyeong Art Center in Incheon near Baegun Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 6 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. 032-500-2000 Pianist Ji-Yong Kim: Lisztomania He’s not even twenty years old yet, and he’s already performed with the New York Phil and is a member of the Korean classical Ensemble Ditto. As the concert title suggests, the night’s program focuses on pieces by Liszt. Ansan Arts Center. Adults W10,000 – W40,000 students W5,000. 7 pm. 031-481-4000 Pianist Sun-wook Kim Recital Featuring Schumann’s “Arabesque” and “Kreisleriana” and Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 30 and “Moonlight Sonata.” Bucheon Citizen Center. Jundong St. line 1 exit 2. W15,000 – W30,000. 032-320-6300

Family & Community Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Every Saturday at 2 pm. 031-251-4435 Through December 5th Meet Jeongjo’s Famous Ministers A study of the reforms made by the progressive king Jeongjo, who is famous for having built Hwaseong Castle in Suwon. Exhibit held at Hwaseong Museum in Suwon. 031-228-4205 Pororo Ice Land Experience Children will have fun at this event featuring one of Korea’s most popular cartoon characters. Ilsan Lake Park Goyang Flower Center. 10 am – 7 pm. Adults W10,000, children W12,000. 1688-6246 Through January 2nd Hello Amazon Experience This “eco-art” exhibition, inspired by the Tears of the Amazon documentary that played on Korean TV recently, attempts to teach children about the environment through education, excitement, and art. KOMACON in Bucheon. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W10,000, children W13,000. Closed Mon. 1588-6306 October 29th – November 2nd Yeoncheon Paleolithic Festival One of two leading Old Stone Agerelated festivals in the world. Learn about the prehistoric era through hands-on activities. Prehistoric sites in Yeoncheon-gun, Jeongok-ri and Jeongok-eup. 031-839-2561


Through December 31st The Bible Expo The Good Book is the theme of the art, activities, and exhibits displayed in the spacious Songdo Central Park. Outside of Central Park Stn. (Incheon line 1, ex. 4). W15,000 at the door, W13,500 in advance. 02-541-1100 November 3rd – 5th IT Communications Fair Exhibits are divided into digital hardware, digital contents, broadcasting, and IT convergence. Held at Songdo Convensia in Incheon near Incheon University Stn. (Incheon line 1). 070-4129-0788 November 4th – 7th Green Transport Korea Companies involved in developing environmentally friendly vehicles are represnted at this expo. KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2). 02-360-4788 November 16th – 19th Seoul International Packing Show KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2). 02-2109-8610 November 18th – 20th Korea Electronic Vehicle Show KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan), Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2). 031-433-0023 November 22nd – 23rd International SoC Design Conference The theme of this year’s conference is “SoC Design for IT Convergence.” For those who aren’t so hip with the tech lingo, “SoC” refers to “system-on-a-chip.” Songdo Convensia in Incheon. Incheon University Stn. (Incheon line 1). 032-210-1114

Concert November 6th

Red Army Chorus and Dance Ensemble Concert The Red Army Chorus and Dance Ensemble began on a Russian army ICBM base, but since then it has toured in many of the cities those missiles once aimed at. The ensemble was formed in 1977 during the heyday of the old Soviet regime with the original purpose of promoting Russian folk songs and martial culture around the world. Its performances in various countries suggest it has indeed accomplished that. In addition to concerts in Switzerland, England, and Belgium, one of the ensemble’s proudest moments was its performance for a White House dinner with Presidents Bill Clinton and Boris Yeltsin. For a look at this unusual blend of soldiers and song, head to the Hanam Arts Center, just east of Seoul. 3 & 7 pm. W30,000 – W45,000. 031-790-7979

Sports & Fitness Restaurants

November 28th Autoban Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart at 10 am from the Misari Rowing Stadium in Hanam. Sign up by 11/7. W25,000 - W35,000. 042-638-1080 Sonata K-League Football 3rd Seongnam vs Seoul at Tancheon Stadium 7:30 pm 3rd Incheon vs Gangwon at Incheon World Cup Stadium 7:30 pm 7th Suwon vs jeonbuk at Suwon World Cup Stadium 3 pm

Dine & Drink

Education & Conferences

Through November 30th Yangju Pumpkin Festival Along with the eponymous pumpkins, there will be beef, jeon (Korean pancakes), jajangmyeon, seafood, and other local delicacies to try out. To get to the festival grounds, take bus 7, 79, or 82 from Yangju Stn. (line 1). 11 am 9 pm. 031-842-5605

Ongoing American Museum of Natural History: Climate Change Festival Not so much a celebration of climate change as an educational program designed to raise awareness of the phenomenon. The Green Zone at Seoul Land in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand

November 26th – 28th Paju Jangdan Soybean Festival A Nanta performance, a concert courtesy of the American 2nd Division military band, and other entertainment complement the more obviously beanrelated activities. Imjingak Plaza in Paju. 031-940-4114

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm,  031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province).,  031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju 031-576-6051

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar.  032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub with great outdoor seating all set for the summer months. 7 pm – 4 am.  010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon . 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Park Bucheon  010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Blues Bucheon 032-323-0161 Frog and Toad Ilsan  010-9950-7399 West Island Ilsan  031-917-2225


International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store.  031-262-9974 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang 


10 Magazine November 2010 | 63


November 27th Jung-hyeon Shin Concert Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang (Ilsan). 7 pm. W55,000 – W88,000. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). 1577-7766

Park Stn. (line 4). W2,000. 02-509-6000



One Day in the Life of a Wonju Tourist Spend a day seeing the sites in this mid-sized city in southeastern Gangwon Province. W o rds b y C h a r i t y Yo r o


onju may not have the beautiful coastline or Starbucks coffee that draws visitors to neighboring cities in Gangwon province. Yet there is a unique charm found in the city that makes the one-and-a-half-hour bus ride from Seoul worth taking, even if you have a mere twenty-four hours to stay. 64 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Morning Maneuvers

As any seasoned traveler knows, all journeys must begin first and foremost with a satisfied stomach. Taking the first step on this journey across the street from the Wonju bus terminal will lead you to Caffé Bene, the best place to begin a day of exploring. The gelato waffle is a delicious indulgence, but there are other options available for those craving lighter fare (a good idea especially if you plan on hiking Chiaksan later). The string of bars located in the neighborhood around the bus terminal (an area called Dangye Taekji or 단계택지) is pretty impressive, and both locals and foreigners frequent them on the weekends. Places of interest include the Tent Bar, an open terrace with a big screen projector, plenty of seating, and an assortment of bar food; and

GANGWON CALENDAR just a block away, the classy aqua-themed Shiva Antique Pub (033732-0079), one of two known shisha bars in the city, with friendly staff and an inviting ambience. Afternoon Adventures

Evening Entertainment

Finally, take a taxi to the shinae (시내), Wonju’s modest downtown, where there are quaint market stalls among cute upscale boutiques, and a selection of local bars and restaurants to choose from along the way. The tiny, newly opened Taco Family Mexican Restaurant (010-8360-8822) has the best burritos. Actually, they’re the only ones in the city, since this is the one Mexican eatery in town, but don’t be deceived—the menu is simple, delicious, and cheap. Or if you’re in the mood for something a little more romantic, try Brand New, a little second story Italian restaurant, where the pasta is among the best in the city and the mood is date-perfect. Venture up the street for a singing session at the posh and stylish Arumdaun Noraebang (033-735-4167), where the rooms come complete with neon floor lights, full drum sets, and plush seating. Then, satisfied by the past twenty-four hours of wandering, end your experience overlooking the Wonju city lights, sipping a cocktail upstairs at the classy Le Reve Bar (033746-9963). After all, ending the trip in “the dream” seems only appropriate. Getting There:

There are plenty of buses heading from Sangbong Terminal or Express Bus Terminal in Seoul to the Express Bus Terminal or Inter-City Bus Terminal in Wonju (located next to each other). Bus fares start at W6,600, and the trip takes around an hour and a half. For a more comfortable ride, hop on the Mugunghwa train from Cheongnyangni Stn. bound for Wonju Stn. This lasts an hour and 15 minutes and costs W6,500.

Through November 30th Gyeong-ho Nam Exhibition Entitled “Life: A Record of Time Hung Up Like a Picture,” this exhibit contains oil paintings by regional artist Gyeong-ho Nam. Birch Forest Art Museum in Hoengseong-gun. 033-342-6833

Performances Ongoing Gwanno Mask Drama Unlike most other Korean mask dances, this one is non-verbal, making it easier for nonKoreans to enjoy. The gwanno in the title refers to government slaves who used to perform the dance. Held every Saturday at 3 pm at the Ojukheon Museum in Gangneung. Also come by the Dano Center on Friday 11/12 from 7 - 8 pm for the regular Dano Festival performance. All free! 033-643-1309 November 11th Wonju Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Chiak Art Center in Wonju. 7:30 pm. 033-737-4302 November 16th An Evening of Lyrics and Arias Gangneung Culture and Art Center. 7:30 – 9 pm. 010-6245-7242 November 23rd Baeckryung Wind Orchestra Concert Baeckryung Art Center in Chuncheon. 7:30 pm. Free. 033-250-7201 November 26th

Sympathy: Pansori and Samulnori If you can’t stand Big Bang and Girls’ Generation, step back a few generations into a more traditional sound. Hanullim Art Troupe are joined on stage by Suk-seon An, perhaps the greatest living pansori singer, and Deok-su Kim, the man behind the samulnori percussion revival of the past few years. Chuncheon Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. 033-251-3474

Family & Community Through November 14th Nami Island Int’l Children’s Book Festival Now in its fifth year, the Nami Island Int’l Children’s Book Festival displays a variety of illustrated books that will delight youngsters. Matching this year’s theme of peace is Peace Story, a book that represents the collaboration of illustrators from over twenty different countries. Festival visitors can also take this opportunity to explore the rest of idyllic Nami Island (in Gapyeong near Chuncheon). 031-580-8114

Sport & Fitness Wonju Chiak Marathon Championship Full (W40,000), half and 10 km (W35,000), and 5k (W25,000)

to start at the Wonju Sports Complex at 10 am. Sign up by November 5th. 02-489-4401 K-League Football 7th Gangwon vs Pohang at Gangneung Stadium 3 pm

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info

Libraries Chuncheon City Library 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. 033-732-5800

Museums Arari Puppet House Jeongseon-gun 033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun  033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong-gun 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung 033-644-9411 Ilhyeon Art Museum Yangyang-gun  033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang-gun  033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol-gun 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun  033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang-gun 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho  033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho  033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju  033-731-2323

Hotels/Accommodations W Hotel Wonju 


Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon  033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon 033-262-2078

Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor.  033-766-7999

10 Magazine November 2010 | 65


No trip to Wonju is complete without a visit to Chiak Mountain, one of the city’s (only) claims to fame. The bus that goes up to the Chiaksan National Park also makes a stop at Wonju’s modest hanji paper museum, where you can browse the handmade selection of souvenirs, or if you are ambitious in the arts, spend the after noon making your own hanji crafts to take home. Of course there’s always the conventional option of spending your time in Wonju hiking Chiaksan, but if you prefer a more leisurely experience consider spending the afternoon at the Guryongsa Temple. Enjoy a delicious vegetarian lunch in the mountains, or even join the monks in afternoon prayer. If you’re in the mood for another noteworthy cultural activity, head to the historical site in Dangu-dong dedicated to Korean novelist Kyung Li Park, where you can visit the preserved hometurned-public-park of the late writer. There is an eccentrically painted parked school bus on the premises that serves as a children’s library, which is definitely worth checking out. The variety of cute coffee shops in the neighborhood is enough to satisfy that afternoon caffeine fix as well (try Best Coffee for the “best” lattes, 033-765-6011).



Art Ongoing Heung-su Kim and Gwang-jin Park Exhibit These two Korean painters’ works are featured in the permanent collection at the Jeju Contemporary Art Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W1,000, students W500. 064-710-7801 Through November 21st Man Ray Photo Exhibit American artist Man Ray is remembered today for the modernist photography that he took in Paris. This exhibit at the Jeju Museum of Art presents 100 works by Ray and his contemporaries. 9 am – 6 pm. jmoa.jeju. 061-710-4300

Stepping Stones of the Pacific Park



66 | 10 Magazine November 2010

November 3th – 7th Choenamdan Yellowtail Festival Choenamdan refers to Marado Island, which is the “southernmost point” of Korean territory. Festival-goers will get to sample the yellowtail (bangeo in Korean) that swim past the island in late fall along with other local specialties such as anchovies and garlic. Moseulpo Harbor just west of Seogwipo. bangeofestival. com 064-794-8032

Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780

W o rds A N D S HOTs b y T r a c i e Ba r r e t t


Dine & Drink


This new park in Jeju is part of a project to turn the Pacific “Ring of Fire” into a string of pearls.

s with much of what is best about Jeju, the new park known as the Stepping Stones of the Pacific is a little off the beaten path and has not yet made it onto maps or into tour guides but is well worth a visit, especially combined with other attractions in the area. If driving, the park is easily found, located to the west of Songaksan on the shore road that leads to Moseulpo. If you’re one of the many keen hikers who come to Jeju for the hundreds of kilometers of Olle walking trails, Stepping Stones is located on Route 10, the path from Hwasun Beach to Moseulpo. Though known to few as of yet, Stepping Stones has an enviable lineage, as proved by the presence of the Jeju governor and the U.S. ambassador to Korea at the dedication ceremony. It is the sixth Pacific Rim Park, one of a proposed string that will encircle the Pacific and link nations that have a long history of conflict. The Pacific Rim Park Project was founded by artist James Hubble as a non-profit organization in San Diego after the first park was completed in Vladivostok, Russia, in 1994. The parks are designed and built by an international group of students, supervised by Hubble and architect Kyle Bergman. For the Jeju park, group members came from seven countries and spent a month working, eating and living together, building friendships that overcame language and cultural differences. Such connections are the purpose of the parks, each of which has a central pearl feature to represent beauty forming from a point of irritation. Those who live on the Pacif ic Ocean know it often fails to live up to its tranquil name, but the designers and builders of “Stepping Stones” hope it will add to peace in the region.

December 3rd - 6th “4-Full” Marathon This is for those who want to run a marathon—or two, or three, or four. Starts at 10 am at the Jeju Sports Complex in Jeju City. Register by November 10th. W30,000 - W120,000. 042-638-1080


Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 1544-1555 November 12th KBS Classic FM Concert Famous performers on screen with a violin and guitar duet on stage. Aramuse Hall. 7:30 pm. Free (call to inquire). 02-781-3754 November 19th Jeju Chamber Orchestra Aramuse Hall. 064-754-4695 Paris Chamber Orchestra Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30pm. W30,000. 010-2804-2808 November 25th Jeju YMCA Youth Orchestra Including songs from L’Arlésienne by Bizet and other pieces. Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30pm. Free. 010-2804-2808

Family & Community

Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star 064-731-1000 Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel  064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic 064-711-7717 Pyeonhan Dental Clinic 064-758-2800

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City  064-757-8182 Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun.  064-738-2550 El Paso Mexican. Rather bland but adequate Mexican food in a central location in Jeju City.  064-752-8252

November 11th – 13th Jeju Tangerine Festival The yellow color of ripening tangerines makes you feel the bounty of life—or so reads the promotional material for this festival. See more (and eat more) of Jeju’s most famous product at the tangerine festival. Seogwipo World Cup Stadium. culture. 064-710-3191

Sports November 7th Sonata K-League Football: Jeju vs Incheon at Jeju World Cup Stadium 3 pm November 9th – 13th Jeju Olle Walking Festival Since September 2007, more than 21 Olle trails have been opened, spanning 343 kilometers of Jeju’s picturesque volcanic landscape. This festival is your excuse to try out courses 1-5. W10,000 in advance, W15,000 on-site. 064-762-2171

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. 064-739-0845 The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes.  064-746-8008

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery  Bull’s Darts Bar  Modern Time 

064-726-4141 064-759-5559 064-748-4180


November 11th L’elisir d’amore: the Opera A famous Italian opera that can be enjoyed with the whole family. Bongseo Hall near Cheonan City Hall. 7:30 pm. W12,000 – W30,000. 041-521-2011 Flying Pianoforte Festival Listen to the beautiful music of fifteen talented pianists from Korea. Bongseo Hall near Cheonan City Hall. 7:30 pm. W5,000. 041-521-2011 November 13th -14th

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan  041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan  041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju  011-382-1862 Sanseong Church  042-585-8111 Daejeon

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheongun Dye clothing or make natural soap.  043-733-0978


Family & Community

Through November 15th Geumgang Nature Art Biennale For three weeks, international artists share the intimate experience of living and working together at this nature and art exhibition. 041-853-8828

Education November 27th KOTESOL Symposium and Thanksgiving Dinner This symposium on TESOL research, interactive technology, and young learners classroom practices will take place at Hoseo University in Cheonan, Chungcheongnam-do. Symposium runs from 10 am - 6 pm (W20,000) with Thanksgiving dinner from 6 - 8 pm (W25,000).

Sport & Fitness Sonata K-League Football 3rd Daejeon vs Suwon 27th Daejeon vs Pohang All games at Daejeon Wold Cup Stadium 7 pm

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Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taeangun Anmyeon Island 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: 041-337-5877

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan  041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-543-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Daejeon  042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean  041-675-2008

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan  041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju  043-215-3311

Live Music Venues Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong  Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 

042-841-0470 042-223-7117

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.  043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju  010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon  043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,  010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook,  042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

Little Prince is a relaxing coffee shop near Chungju, just a twohour bus ride southeast of Seoul. Little Prince offers an incredible view of the hills as well as upscale coffee. The owner, John trained in Seoul to learn the science of espresso and drip coffee. In addition to coffee done right, both John and his mother offer jeong—warm hearts and generosity—to their customers. John speaks English well and is known for chatting with visitors. Another advantage for foreigners is that the menu is in English. Try the caramel macchiato and hot choco, local foreigner favorites. At Little Prince, you will feel well cared for and appreciated all while enjoying a delicious cup of joe. Chungju-si, Yeonsu-dong 226. 043-857-2456 

Words and shots by K r ista Smith

e di t or’ s pick

November 23rd - 28th

Daejeon International Guitar Festival Tired of rocking out on Guitar Hero? Experience the real thing at the Daejeon International Guitar Festival. Serious guitarists will compete in the International Guitar Competition while those of us whose guitar skills still need improvement can enjoy the concerts held at 7:30 pm for the first four nights of the festival (11/23: various guitar ensembles; 11/24: Jeon-yong Song, Gyu-tae Kim and Jeong-nan Choi, and Misol Leel; 11/25: Adriano Del Sal; and 11/26: Alen Garagic). The biggest show is saved for Saturday at 7 pm, when guitar concertos will be performed by Javier Somoza, Daekun Jang, and the Arco Diabolo Chamber Orchestra. There will also be a guitar exhibition on Saturday and Sunday from 9 – 6 pm at the Convention Hall. Held at the Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 042-486-7705 10 Magazine November 2010 | 67


Through November 7th Chrysanthemum Fragrance Festival Stop and smell the flowers (100 million of them, apparently) at Daecheong Lake Ecological Park in Daejeon, Dong-gu. 042-250-1281

A Royal Welcome at Little Prince

Entertainment Kumdori Land Daejeon 042-862-4000 O-World Amusement Park Daejeon 042-580-4820

Boney M Concert Bring out the disco ball and dance to the funky beats of German group Boney M. South Chungcheong Student Education and Cultural Center in Cheonan. Sat 7 pm. Sun 5 pm. W44,000 – W88,000. 041-552-3191

Caramel macchiato at Little Prince

November 6th Daejeon Chamber Music Society This musical group will play Brahms’ Piano Trio No. 1 in B Major op. 8 and Dvorak’s Piano Quintet in A Major op. 81. Ensemble Hall at Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. 02-599-5743

ch u ngch e ong Disc ov er y

GYEONGSANG DISCOVERY Design & Fashion November 4th - 6th Daegu Fashion Fair Experience Asia textile fashion from production, design, distrubution, to marketing with over 100 companies and 200 booths. EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center) Level 1, 3. Thu - Fri 10 am - 6 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm. fashiondaegu. com/kor 053-601-5361, 053-601-5367

Art Through November 20th Busan Biennale Art expositions this massive don’t happen everyday, people. We’re talking about only once every two years. This year’s theme is evolution, both of art and of the human race. Busan Museum of Art and other locations. 051-503-6111

Birding in Busan Be inspired by the beauty of the birds and the lush wetlands at Korea’s National Treasure #179. W o rds A N D S HOT b y B r yc e W e i b l e y

A few kilometers from Busan’s Gimhae Airport lies a lesser known international aviation hub – the Nakdong Estuary Bird Habitat (National Treasure No. 179). Thousands of migratory birds representing over 200 species stop at this lush wetland for the season or to rest before continuing their journey. The Eulsukdo Migratory Bird Park offers a rare wildlife viewing experience any time of year. Winter visitors include swans, geese, and ducks taking refuge from the Siberian winter. Herons, warblers, and plovers from Southeast Asia make the Nakdong estuary their summer residence. In the fall and spring, flocks include the intrepid bar-tailed godwit, resting along its Take subway line 1 to Hadan Station, exit 5. Catch bus number 58 or 58-1 westbound and get off at Eulsukdo Resting Place. Cross the road using the pedestrian overpass. Car parking is available for a small fee.

Getting there:

Through February 27th Off the Wall Fifteen exhibitors will have approximately 32 paintings and 18 sculptures on display to illustrate the versatility of clay and architecture. Clayarch Kimhae Museum in Gimhae., 055-340-7004

10,000 km migration from northeastern China to New Zealand – one of the longest bird migrations in the world. Dozens of year-round resident species include sparrow hawks, pheasants, and great tits. Start at the Nakdong Estuary Eco Center where you can study up before testing your birding skills at the giant bird-head binoculars overlooking the wetlands. You’re sure to see a handful of birds from the Eco Center, but you’ll want to grab a map and allow one to two hours to explore the island on foot. For the burgeoning birders out there, binocular rentals are available. Follow the boardwalk outside the Eco Center to the muddy salt marsh and take a right on the road at the end of the boardwalk toward the scenic, southern part of Eulsukdo. Cross the first bridge and go right, following the newly paved path under the big bridge to discover a gorgeous wetland panorama reminiscent of the Everglades. At the obstruction in the road, walk down on the rocks. Continue to the observation post with slits in the wall for stealth bird watching. Make sure to bring your camera to capture rare species sightings and beautiful landscapes throughout Eulsukdo. Happy birding! 9 am – 6 pm (last entry at 5 pm). Closed Mondays, January 1st. A dm i s s i o n W1,000, 051-610-7111 Op e n

November 4th – 14th The Mysterious World of Luminous Fish Get to see the fascinating world of the deep sea with glow-in-the-dark fish. Seongju Art & Culture Center in Seongju-gun. 10 am - 5 pm. General W2,000, groups W1,000. 054-933-6912 November 9th – 17th Korea’s Arts and Crafts Competition Eulsukdo Cultural Center Exhibition Halls 1, 2, 3 in Busan. 051-220-5321 November 17th – 21st Daegu Art Fair An nternational art fair showcasing dozens of artists. EXCO in Daegu, 11 am - 8pm. Adults W5,000, students W3,000. 053-421-4774

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Fell in Love with a B-Boy This b-boy-meets-ballerina story is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance and ballet. Seomyeon BB Theater in Busan. Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 051-804-2252 Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. IBK Jump Theater in the basement of the Haeundae Grand Hotel. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun and holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 051-744-4885 November 4th - 7th Carmen: the Opera George Bizet’s opera backed by the Busan YMCA Chorus and the Metro Philharmonic Orchestra. Busan Citizen’s Hall. Thu - Fri 7:30 pm, Sat - Sun 5 pm. W30,000 – W150,000. 070-7522-4649 Through November 7th Phantom of the Opera Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical (in Korean). Keimyung Art Center in Daegu. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 8 pm, Sun 2 & 7 pm. W40,000 – W130,000. 053-762-0000

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Viet Cong Execution 1969 by Edward T. Adams Courtesy of the Associated Press


Exhibition Through December 5th

Pulitzer Prize Photographs Exhibition

The national police chief of South Vietnam aiming a pistol at a prisoner. American marines raising the Stars and Stripes at Iwo Jima. Korean refugees clambering across a collapsed bridge. These crucial moments in 20th century history and the photographers whose skill made them unforgettable are revisited in this collection of Pulitzer Prize-winning photographs from 1942 - 2010. After a popular run in Seoul, the exhibit has moved to the Daegu National Museum ( to give folks in the southern half of the country their chance to relive history. After you’ve seen the pictures, head to the comment corner just outside to tack up a note expressing your feelings. 11 am – 8 pm. Closed Mondays. Adults W10,000, students W8,000, children W6,000. 1588-7890 November 5th - 7th

November 5th - 6th Russian Mariinski Theater Ballet With 250 years of history, the world’s leading ballet company comes to Korea. Busan Cultural Center. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 pm. W50,000 – W150,000. 051-120-6222 November 13th – 14th

November 16th The Barber of Seville: the Opera See Gioachino Rossini’s The Barber of Seville, performed by some of Korea’s top singers. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7:30 pm. W25,000 – W30,000. 055-268-7900


Korea in Motion Daegu A non-verbal performance festival held in Daegu. Donggu Arts & Sports Center. W10,000 – W20,000. 50% ticket discount on all shows for foreigners., 053-951-3300

Grease in Korean. South Gyeongsang Province Culture and Arts Center in Jinju. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 8 pm. W30,000 – W60,000. 055-740-3224

November 17th -18th Second Nature Dance Company: Love Affair Awarded Best Original Score in 2008, this modern dance conveys the value of nature. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. 010-2677-3880 November 20th All That Jazz Get those jazz hands ready for this spectacular musical. 3 & 7 pm. General W15,000, art members and children W10,000. Seongju Art & Culture Center. 054-933-6912 November 23rd La Traviata: the Opera Experience Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata interpreted by famous Korean opera singers. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 2 & 7:30 pm. W25,000 – W30,000. 055-268-7900

Musical Grease Rewind to the 1950s and indulge in the pop culture classic

November 26th – 27th The Magic Flute: the Opera Daegu Opera House. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 5 pm. W10,000 – W50,000. 053-666-6000

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Sports Center. 5 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. 055-320-1234 November 14th New Percussion Concert Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7:30 pm. W10,000. 053-666-3300

ceremonies, and concerts that center around tea and craft work. BEXCO Convention Hall 3. 10 - 6 pm. W3,000. 051-740-7705 ext. 6 November 5th – 7th

November 17th Korea Fantasy A performance by the National Dance Company of Korea. Geochang Education Culture Center. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 055-940-3531 November 25th Hyungju Lim Concert Listen to the stirring music of this popera singer. Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 5 pm. W5,000 – W120,000. 055-320-1234

“Dadaepo Sunset Fountain of Dream” Music Show Family & Community Through November

The largest fountain in the world is not in Singapore or Las Vegas but here in Korea. Located at Dadaepo Beach in southwest Busan, the Dadaepo Sunset Fountain of Dreams was recognized this year as the only fountain in the world that can shoot 55m up. It’s also the first fountain in the country that adds music and lighting to the leaping water. To get to Dadaepo Beach, get off at Sinpyeong Stn. and transfer to bus 2, 11, 338, or 1000. The show takes place Tue – Fri 7:30 – 8 pm and weekends & holidays 7 – 7:30 pm & 8 – 8:30 pm. Closed Mondays. 051-207-6041 (051-1330) November 27th Martial Art Dance Traditional dance and martial arts. 3.15 Art Center in Changwon. 4 & 7 pm. W15,000. 055-220-6670

Concerts November 1st – 3rd “In Korean” Symphony Orchestra Busan Cultural Center. 7:30 pm. November 2nd Navy Marching Band Concert Geoje Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. Free (first come, first served). 055-680-1000 November 5th Tatarstan Symphony Orchestra Mussorgsky’s Night on Bald Mountain, Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concert No. 3, and Shostakovich’s Symphony No. 9. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7 pm. Adults W10,000 – W30,000, students W10,000. 055-268-7900 November 6th Guitar Ensemble Concert Haeundae Cultural Center in Busan. 6 pm. W10,000. 051-749-7651 November 7th Ocarina Concert Busan Cultural Center. 3 pm. 051-120 November 10th Cello Concert : Autumn in Prague C. Schumann’s Piano Trio in G minor, R. Schumann’s Piano Trio No. 1 in D minor, and A. Dvorak’s Piano Trio No. 4 in E minor. South Gyeongsang Province Culture and Arts Center in Jinju. 8 pm.

70 | 10 Magazine November 2010

W10,000 – W30,000. 1544-6711 November 10th Creative Gugak Orchestra Featuring gugak (traditional Korean music) reinterpreted for the modern day. Masan 3.15 Art Center. 7: 30 pm. Adults W20,000, students W10,000. 055-220-6670 November 11th Chinese National Symphony Orchestra Camille Saint-Saens’ Concerto for Violin and Orchestra No. 3 in B Minor, Op. 61 & Richard Strauss’s A Hero’s Life. Gumi Art Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 – W100,000. 054-451-3040 November 12th Dream of Musical A unique form of entertainment where the elements of drama and musical meet. Ulsan Culture and Art Center. 8 pm. W5,000. 052-275-9623 Italian-Czech Male Choir Concert The program includes “Ave Maria,” “Waltzing Matilda,” “Blackbird,” “Ob-la-di, Ob-la-da,” “La Montanara,” and “La Bella al Mulino.” Hyundai Arts Center in Ulsan. 8 pm. W10,000 – W30,000. 052-235-2100 November 13th – 14th Tchaikovsky: Mystery of Life and Death A masterpiece by famous Russian choreographer Boris Eifman set to the music of Tchaikovsky. Gimhae Arts and

November 26th Duology Classic to Jazz Yeah, the name’s a little funky. But the music is funky, too! Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 7 pm. 053-666-3300 November 30th Salaryday Concert Otherwise known in the non-Konglish world as “payday.” Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 8:00 pm. W20,000. 053-666-3300

Family & Community Through November 8th Geoje Island Flower Festival At the 5th annual festival, check out cool green-house exhibits that show high-tech agriculture at work and then walk through the wafting fragrance of over three billion flowers. On the south part of Geoje Island. 055-639-3980

Education & Conferences November 10th – 13th Busan Urban Design Expo This exhibition will present designs that will not only improve exterior beauty but transform cities. BEXCO Exhibition Hall 2. 10 am - 5 pm. 02-2051-3322 Daegu International Automatic Machinery &Tools Exhibition The 11th annual exhibition featuring the latest machinery and 250 of Korea’s leading producers. Daegu EXCO 053-601-5077 November 13th – 14th Wedding Exhibition Nurien Honsu Town in Busan. 12 - 8 pm. 051-809-1111 November 18th – 20th Korea “Safe” Show Yes, this is one safe show, providing information about safety, health, fire, and other services. CECO (Changwon Exhibition Convention Center). 10 am - 5 pm. Free. 055-212-1000 November 18th – 21st G-Star 2010 Global game exhibition featuring everything from video games to board games. BEXCO in Busan. 10 - 6pm. 02-3153-1313 November 26th – 28th Daegu Golf Expo Golf enthusiasts gather at the 3 day-expo with 100 companies and 230 booths. EXCO in Daegu. 031-783-5672

Dine & Drink November 4th – 7th Daegu International Tea & Craft Fair Educational conferences, exhibitions,

Akyang Persimmon Festival If you’re one of the many Westerners who aren’t familiar with persimmons, try out the luscious daebong variety in Hadong-gun, Akyang-myeon. Pyeongsari Park. 055-883-5530 Jinyeong Sweet Persimmon Festival Jinyeong Public Stadium in Gimhae. 055-343-2242 November 10th - 13th Busan Korean Food Fair Three indoor exhibitions and one outdoor exhibition. BEXCO. Indoor display 8 am - 6 pm, outdoor display 9 am - 8 pm. 051-863-0300 November 25th Thanksgiving Dinner at Waegook Cook Roasted turkey with sausage stuffing, gravy, cranberry orange and Jack Daniel’s sauce, mashed potatoes, maple and honey glazed carrots, stuffed pumpkin, and broccoli and cauliflower cheese, and pumpkin pie or apple pie and custard. Gumi8 pm. W19,000. 054-4443775

Sports & Fitness October 30 - November 2nd World University Equestrian Championship For those who find horse racing a little too vulgar, there are equestrian sports. Don’t know what dressage is? Hint: it doesn’t go on your salad. Sangju International Stadium. 054-537-6394 November 20th – 21st 2010 Ulsan Soccer Cup The Ulsan Amateur Football League, Ulsan Metropolitan City and The Won Shot Wanderers FC team up to bring you the 2010 Ulsan Soccer Cup, the only country-wide tournament for expatriate soccer teams in Korea. Email or contact Gareth Copley at 010-2350-1973. December 26th Gimhae Winter Training Competition 5k, 13k, 30k, full to depart from the Daegeum Rest Stop on the Busan-Geoje Road. Sign up by December 10th. W10,000 - W40,000. 042-638-1080 Sonata K-League Soccer 3rd Ulsan vs Daegu at Ulsan Munsu Field 7 pm 3rd Pohang vs Gyeongnam at Pohang Steel Yard 7 pm 3rd Busan vs Jeonbuk at Busan Asiad Field 7 pm 7th Gyeongnam vs Seongnam at Changwon Soccer Center 3 pm


Gyeongsang PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities 051-898-3740, 051-865-0133 Geoje Foreign Resident Association 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.  Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Sand Sculpture Classes Haeundae Beach. Every Sun 1 - 3 pm. W10,000.  051-749-7611 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com  010-7794-1218

Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae.  051-742-2959 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine.  054-444-3775 Daegu Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street.  053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine.  053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm.  053-475-5242

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel  051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador  051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador  053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina  051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Radio TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 US Armed Forces Network Jinhae  AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu  AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang  AM 1512 Waegwan  AM 1080 / FM 88.5

Daegu Hotel Inter-Burgo DAEGU: 300, Manchon-dong, Soosung-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-6027-114 Hotel Inter-Burgo EXCO, Sangyeok 2-dong, Buk-gu, Daegu, Korea. Tel: +82-53-3800-114 2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Restaurants Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. 051-740-6670


Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan interplaycafe  051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu clubheavy96  010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am.  051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well.  011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar

with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.  051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.  051-513-0070 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. 053-422-7708

Islamic Mosque Busan 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island  010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island 017-577-3096


Clubs Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel. 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am.  051-628-0223 Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. 053-427-7171 Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook.

Religious Services Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple  051-508-3470 Busan Hosanna Church Busan 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan  051-640-3445


The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.  053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.  053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.  053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices  053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. 053-768-7867

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051747-3069 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station.  051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American

Wonju Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju: 1401-10, Bangok-dong, Wonju-si, Kwangwon-do, Korea. Tel : +82-33-769-8114

t Professional Service

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Frigo Hair Internationally renowned stylist Roberto Frigo (TONI&GUY, TIGI) keeps you looking your best with the latest hair trends. Based in Daegu, within easy reach of Seoul and Busan. 010-2351-0055

10 Magazine November 2010 | 71


Art & Design October 29th – November 4th Hanji Fashion Trends Exhibit Bet you didn’t know that Hanji (Korean paper) can be used as an eco-friendly fabric! No longer just the material for cheap souvenirs in Insadong, hanji is the theme of this fashion show featuring work by designers from Korea and abroad. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 063-274-0570 Through November 4th World Calligraphy Biennale of Jeolla In its 10th year, this exhibition will host an array of rare and valuable calligraphy. Gochang Culture Center. Free. 063-560-2321 Through November 7th The Gwangju Biennale: 10,000 Lives The 8th Gwangju Biennale investigates the relationships that bind people to images and images to people. Named after 10,000 Lives (만인보), Eun Ko’s thirtyvolume epic poem, the exhibit marshals a diverse range of media to engage our love of (and obsession with) images. This is Asia’s oldest contemporary art biennial and will not disappoint. Gwangju Biennale Hall, the Gwangju Museum of Art, and the Gwangju Folk Museum. 9 am - 6 pm. 062-608-4114 Through November 28th Joseon Dynasty and Jeonju Explore the history of the Joseon Dynasty and the region of Jeonju. Jeonju National Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. 063-223-5651

The Beauty of Nature and Art Around Jeonju W o rds a n d s h ot s b y R o b M c G o v e r n



’s Art Group is a collection of businesses around Jeonju dedicated to art and culture in beautiful surroundings. There is O’s art garden, which contains a cultural and education centre where you can learn about traditional Korean etiquette and tea ceremonies. Mere minutes from the art garden is O’s gallery, which overlooks a small lake about 20 km outside Jeonju. There are few places I have been in Korea that offer such a beautiful view over a cup of coffee. The gallery has regular exhibitions and although it is small the surrounding area offers both scenic beauty and historical curiosities to go along with your view. Back in Jeonju, there is O’s Square, a beautiful cafe in the Jeonbukdae area and about 25 km south of O’s gallery on the banks of Okjeong lake is O’s House, another beautiful building in another great location t h at cat e r s t o a r t love r s a nd foodies and has guest rooms that take advantage of the view. Jeollabuk-do Wanju-gun Soyang-myeon Daeheung-ri 409 063-244-7116 72 | 10 Magazine November 2010

Through February 13th Ha Jeong’s Special Collection: “Democracy, Human Rights, and Gwangju” Celebrating human rights and anti-imperialism on the 30th anniversary of the Gwangju Massacre, this art exhibition explores the struggle to achieve democracy after the Japanese invasion of Korea. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. 062-510-0149 November 12th – 18th Exhibit of the North Jeolla Female Painters Society Works that tell a love story with signs of longing and anguish. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am - 6 pm. 010-7181-9549

Performances November 6th La Boheme: the Opera Filled with vignettes and no unified plot, Giacomo Puccini’s four-act play is one of the most frequently performed internationally. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 7:30pm. W10,000 – W30,000. 062-510-9251 November 27th The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy A love story about a ballerina and break dancer who fall in love against the wishes of their family and friends. But through the power of music, their love prevails. This unique nonverbal performance combines dance routines like rock, hip-hop, and ballet. Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. 4 pm. W30,000 – W50,000. 063-270-2089

Concerts November 4th ECO-GEO “Our Concert” Featuring the Jeonju Philharmonic Orchestra joined by

four choirs. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 7:30 pm. 061-749-3516 November 4th, 18th, and 25th Thursday Gugak Art Stage These weekly performances sponsored by the North Jeolla Province Gugak Center give the audience a chance to experience Korean opera, dance, music, and other traditional forms of artistic expression. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. Closed on Thurs the 11th. 7:30 pm. Free. 063-710-1395 November 5th Arirang Concert The story begins with a peaceful town singing songs of dreams and hopes but is disturbed by war and separation of loved ones. Watch Korea Academy’s 16th Annual Concert to see if this story has a happy ending. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 063-270-8000 November 6th Big 4 Concert Experience the Korean pop forces of DJ DOC, Jae-beom Park, Si-kyung Sung, and Tiara. Jeonju Sports Complex. 7 pm. W44,000 – W130,000. 1544-1555 November 6th, 13th, 20th, 27th Saturday Gugak Art Stage Mokpo Citizen’s Culture and Athletic Center. 5 pm. 061-287-5205 November 10th Moldova Radio Orchestra Bach’s Concerto for Violin & Oboe in D Minor, Bizet’s L’Arlesienne Suite, and the 4th movement of Haydn’s Symphony No. 45 in F sharp minor. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30pm. W30,000, W40,000, W60,000. 063-270-8000 November 12th Sae-rom Kwon Double Bass Concert The program includes Robert Schumann’s Adagio and Allegro for Horn and Piano and Adolf Misek’s Sonata for Double Bass and Piano. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 063-270-8000 November 15th The Force Dance Company Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju. W10,000. 7 pm. 063-270-2089 November 24th Sa-ik Jang’s New Album: 驛 (Train Station) Referred to by many people as “Maestro,” Sa-ik Jang burst onto the Korean music scene at the ripe age of 46. He is known to creatively blend popular music, jazz, and Korean traditional music in his songs. Similar to his other works, in this show he will weave Korean traditional music with poetic lyrics and various musical elements to create a sensational experience. Gwangju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 – W100,000. 062-510-9251 November 25th Ji-Yong Piano Recital Liszt’s Sonata in B Minor S. 178, Schubert and Liszt’s “Gretchen at the Spinning Wheel,” and Schumann and Liszt’s Myrthen Op. 25, No. 1 - Widmung. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. W30,000 – W40,000. 7:30 pm. 063-270-8000 November 26th Chopin’s 200th Anniversary Concert Singers and musicians from different organizations will perform 19 of Chopin’s masterpieces, including “Lithuanian

E DITOR’ S PICK JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center  062-226-1050

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan  063-851-4311 Musangsa Muan-gun  042-841-6084


Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival November 10th – 14th

This festival is for the birds—more than 800,000 of them. Each year, around fifty species of migratory birds including wild geese and more exotic specimens such as the Baikal teal pass through the wetlands around Gunsan on the east coast of Korea as they journey south. The festival includes a whole flock of events such as photo exhibits, concerts, and quiz shows, but the highSong” and “The Warrior.” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. W10,000. 7:30pm. 063-270-8000 November 28th Saxophone Orchestra Concert The Jeolla Phillharmonic Saxophone Orchestra will play music composed by a special guest conductor. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30pm. 063-270-8000

Family & Community Through November 21st Yeongam Chrysanthemum Festival Indulge in the beautiful sight and fresh smell of 100,000 chrysanthemums. Almost 13 varieties of this perennial flower are displayed. 9 am - 6:30 pm. General W3,000, children W1,000. 061-470-2349 October 29th – November 7th Ten Million Chrysanthemum Festival Themed “Happiness and Delight,” this festival, decorated with more than ten million Chrysanthenum and flowering plants, will sure to live up to its theme for you and your family and friends.

This colorful world will be full of food, tea, children programs, contests, and saxophone and guitar concerts. Ikan Central Athletic Park, Ikan Jewelry Museum, and other venues in Ikan. 063-859-5797 November 5th – 6th Baekyang Autumn Leaves Festival Stroll alongside Baekyangsa Temple as you enjoy the picturesque scene of the autumn foliage at its peak. There will also be face-painting, street concerts, fireworks, nature exhibitions, and many interactive activities and events. Food and souvenirs will be on sale. Baekysanga Square, County Office, Jangseong Lake. 061-393-1989

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks Take advantage of these English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and intercultural understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. There is an opportunity for small discussion groups after the talk. Gwangju International Center. Sat 2:30 – 4 pm. Closed holidays. 062-226-2733 November 6th Wedding Expo Chonbuk National University Cultural Center in Jeonju.

9 am. Free. 063-270-2089, 017-654-0982 November 18th – 21st Architecture Fair KDJ Center in Gwangju. 062-650-3355 November 25th – 28th Robot Expo Children and adults alike can enjoy this expo showcasing the latest robots. KDJ Center in Gwangju. 062-611-2213

Sport & Fitness December 5th Gwangju Marathon Put on your running gear and get ready for the annual 10km marathon hosted by the Gwangju Marathon Club Association. 9 am. Sign up by November 15th., Sonata K-League Football 7th Jeonnam vs Daegu at Gwangyang Field 3 pm 7th Gwangju vs Ulsan at Gwangju World Cup Stadium 3 pm

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Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel  062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju  062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju  FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan  AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-theborder favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas., Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.  062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group,  011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.  019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean.  018-607-6321 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.  010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, 061-724-2234

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November 28th Korean Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Mozart’s Flute Concerto, Bizet’s Carmen, and Mozart’s Symphony No. 6. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 5 pm. Adults W20,000, students W10,000. 063-270-8000

light of your visit will probably be the birdwatching tours (W1,000) that depart several times each day. The festival site (and best spots for birding) are the Gunsan Migratory Bird Observatory, Eunpa Ecological Park, and Gumgang Lake. Shuttle buses are available to transport visitors from the train station to the festival grounds. The impressive Saemangeum Seawall is also worth a look while you’re there. 063-453-7213

Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000.  063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000.  063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Cultural Center 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. 061-294-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. 061-270-8480

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by s o n g l e e

Tuesday, November 2nd Melbourne Cup with ANZA Come out and enjoy this exciting racing event held to celebrate the 150th year of the Melbourne Cup. There will be awards for best dressers as well as fabulous raffle prizes. RSVP required. Namsan Rooms on the 2nd floor. 11 am - 4 pm. W100,000. Non-members W120.000. Tuesday, November 2nd Melbourne Cup with ANZA Come out and enjoy this exciting racing event held to celebrate the 150th year of the Melbourne Cup. There will be awards for best dressers as well as fabulous raffle prizes. RSVP required. Namsan Rooms on the 2nd floor. 11 am - 4 pm. W100,000. Non-members W120.000. Wednesday, November 3rd Jefferey Jones Charity Pro-Am Golf Tournament This charit y golf tournament is to raise scholarship funds for unemployed families. Tee-off at 10:30 am. Haevichi Country Club in Jeju. Thursday, November 4th SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting A great chance to learn a little bit about the Seoul International Women’s Association and make new friends. Held at the Seoul Club at 10 am. W8,000. Friday, November 5th AWC Annual Fashion Show Join the AWC ladies for fashion, fun and a charitable cause. All clothing will be available for purchase with proceeds benefiting USFK organizations and Korean charities. RSVP required. 9:30 am. Seoul Club Hallasen Room. W12,000. Non-members W15,000. Saturday November 6th - Sunday, November 7th BCCK Seorak Mountain Trip BCCK offers a weekend trip to Mt. Seorak National Park, which is one of the most beautiful mountains in Korea. Take a look at the itinerar y on the website. RSVP by November 1st.


Sunday, November 7th Classic Concert for Seoul G20 Summit Come out with the SIWA ladies to the Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra’s classical concert to c el e b r a te t h e G -20 S e o ul S u m mi t . 7:30 pm. Sejong Gr and Theater. Free.

Mondays and Fridays SIWA Lecture Series Have a chance to learn about Korean culture through these lectures by David A. Mason, professor of Korean tourism at Kyung Hee University. It goes on every Monday & Friday starting November 8th to December 13th. 10 am - 12 pm. Korea Foundation Cultural Center at the Joongang Ilbo Bld. W210,000. Nonmembers W230,000. Tuesday, November 9th BASS Catch-up Coffee Catch up with old friends and make new ones at this mid-monthly BASS get together. Star Moon Cafe, located on the ground floor of the Fraser Suites, Insadong. 10 am - 12 pm. Friday, November 12th FKCCI Breakfast Meeting FKCCI invites Ms.Laurence Parisot, head of the French MEDEF employers’ union, for an exceptional breakfast meeting with the FrenchKorean business communities. 8 am. Orchid Room at Grand Ambassador Hotel. W40,000. Non-members W50,000. Wednesday, November 17th SIWA Coffee Morning Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am. W12,000. Non-members W17,000. Thursday, November 18th SIWA Baker’s Market Tour An exciting tour for bakers who would like to make something special for the upcoming holidays. Find out about the hidden corners of the larger Bangsan Market with the help of professional bakers. 10 am. Euljiro 4-ga Stn. ( line 5 or 2, exit 6). W5,000. Non-members W10,000. Friday, November 19th SIWA Newcomers Luncheon Vin Vino Restaurant in Itaewon. 10:30 am. W15,000. Monday, November 22nd BASS Christmas Fair Here is your oppor tunit y to kick- of f your Christmas shopping. There will be many vendors in attendance selling unique items, as well as a table with items in new condition. The Seoul Club in Jangchoong-Dong. 10 am - 12 pm. W10,000. Non-members W15,000.

2010 November

wed Chef’s Table Jazz Concert


Classy company, immaculate Italian food, and oustanding jazz--your Wednesday evening doesn’t get much better than this. Head to Antonio Vinoteca Ristorante in Cheongdamdong for a night of live entertainment and to-die-for dining sponsored by SIWA. On the menu, prepared by Italian Executive Chef Sebastiano Giangregorio, are oysters and shrimp, meat ravioli, risotto with parmesan, pork fillet, and chocolate souffle, along with three Piccini wines. The live jazz piano of Jean Ga’tan Alkoordoss from Tokyo Jazz will serve as the perfect backdrop for the dinner. 7 pm. W70,000 for SIWA members and W80,000 for non-members. Gangnam-gu, Cheongdam-dong 93-8 02-3443-4333

Tuesday, November 30th SIWA and Diplomatic Community Bazaar This bazaar features more than 50 embassies, women’s clubs and many more international organizations. In addition to shopping, there will be cultural per formances, international food and a silent auction. Mark your calendar now. W8,000 at SIWA Newcomers and Coffee Mornings. W10,000 at the door. 9:30 am. Grand Hilton Conference Center. amcham ANZA AWC BASS BCCK FKCCI SIWA

American Chamber of Commerce Australian and New Zealand Association of Korea American Women’s Club British Association of Seoul British Chamber of Commerce Korea French Chamber of Commerce and Industry Korea Seoul International Women’s Association

To list your event, contact David Carruth at or 02-3447-1610

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Buggin’ Out Words by A da m Boot h e , I llustration by h y eon - seu ng ry u


ast night I couldn’t sleep. Well, to be more accurate, I slept fine, but I kept waking up in a murderous rage, arms flailing and cursing. The reason: vicious Korean mosquitoes - in November no less! I tried to ignore the little guy in favor of sleep. I wake up with a few bites, so what? I’m sleepy right now. Laziness always trumps long-term happiness. But my plan didn’t work. I finally got out of bed, turned on the light and hunted. That didn’t work either. The little menace continued to out-maneuver me and outsmart me. My level of madness was approaching something from an Edgar Allen Poe story. Coming from Florida, I am no stranger to bugs, big or small. In Seoul, the mosquitoes are something different however. They somehow survive in the cool weather of October and on into the cold weather of November. They move differently and the bites irritate me more. I feel like my lifetime of mosquito training has failed me. They are faster, stronger, and they have learned to adapt. However, if Arnold Schwarzenegger movies have taught me anything (and you’d be a fool to think they haven’t), it is that “If it bleeds, we can kill it.” A nd like any good Schwarzenegger movie, I knew I would need firepower. Clearly, my nighttime swatting was at best impotent and at worst comical. Society has moved past this. Humans were born with the gift of language and a scientific mind. The evolution of man has led us to a golden age that has produced unforeseen prosperity and an incredible arsenal for killing things. The mosquitoes do not stand a chance. I considered my weapon of choice. I have seen the electric tennis rackets in subway stations. I liked the satisfying crackle of

frying thorax, but the tool seemed a little primitive. It’s just an extension of my arm, which hardly matches my Robocop fantasies. The candles and electric coils are a little too stinky to use. This is about the suffering of the mosquito, not my own. I have no desire for empathy. This is not to be a noble war. This is genocide. This is Goliath triumphant. I chose the innocuous plug-ins. If you are not familiar, this contraption looks like a plug-in air freshener. The only difference is that it does not contain a fragrant liquid, but instead, a lethal poison. The poison slowly cooks and enters the air, killing all airborne invaders. It’s like a “Do Not Disturb” sign for sadists. My girlfriend warned me to crack a window and to keep the poison away from my bed while I slept. Like a true warrior, I ignored the suggestions of civilians. This was not her war, so she could not understand. Yes, I get the possible problems that could come from breathing in a mild poison all night. “So, big deal, I might live to be 82 instead of 83?” That’s a sacrifice I am willing to make. I plugged in my poison and went to sleep. I awoke the next morning feeling rested. No bites, no interruptions. The next morning I walked out into the brisk fall morning. I felt proud of myself and I felt proud of science. What couldn’t we kill? The bugs might be living longer, but the nobility of the human spirit will find a way to engineer their death in any climate. At this time of the year, we should be shivering, not scratching. However, more relieving than scratching an itch is the knowledge that mankind has the tools to destroy even the smallest annoyance. We can all rest safe.

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