Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL
Korea awaits! • october 2011 VOL. 4 NO. 1
외국인의 한국생활 노하우
Also Duck à la Corée Where to Shop for Electronics A Trip to Hong Kong F1 is Back Busan’s October Action
Expat Owner-Chefs They ain’t from these parts, but they’re in the kitchen - and they own the joint.
Printed using 100% soy ink.
The following people helped make the new
S. Joy Phillips
Daniel P. Hurley
The Mechanic Korea
Marten Van Pelt
ook, despite what you may have heard and perhaps appearances, weâ€™re not wealthy yet. Anyone who has visited our staff of LQRXURQHURRPRIÂżFHLQWKHKHDUWRI Itaewon knows it. Yet weâ€™re doing the best we can to deliver a professional, Englishlanguage, event-focused publication to help you enjoy all that there is to experience in Korea - and weâ€™re doing a better job of achieving that goal with every succeeding month of operation. We also happen to be very proud of the fact that we manage to give full-time jobs to SHRSOHDQGZHHQMR\ZRUNLQJWRJHWKHULQRXUOLWWOHRIÂżFH with the lime-green wallpaper. 10 really is like a second family to us. We couldnâ€™t do it without the people who
support us though: our talented contributing writers and photographers, our dedicated interns and some of the best advertisers in Korea who cater to English-speaking natives, expats and tourists like you. +HQFHZLWKRXUPHDJHUÂżQDQFLDOUHVRXUFHVZKHQZH set out to make a more useful website to help us get even closer to that goal we were mentioning, we decided to enlist DOLWWOHÂżQDQFLDODVVLVWDQFHIURPUHDGHUVDQGRWKHUV who might enjoy such a site. With the help of IndieGoGo. com, we sought some â€˜crowd fundingâ€™ to get the site of 10â€™s dreams made. We didnâ€™t just take this money mind you. There were all kinds of great â€œperksâ€? available that were offered up in exchange for contributions - from
k n a h T ou. Y
VXEVFULSWLRQVWRUHVWDXUDQWJLIWFHUWL¿FDWHVWRVWDU6HRXO hotel stays. And every single one of those perks came with a little side perk: your name in 10 Magazine. We didn’t quite reach our goal of $3,000 but we did manage to reach $2,490, and that was enough to get our glorious QHZVLWHXSDQGUXQQLQJRQRXUWDUJHWGDWHRI6HSWHPEHUVW You can now visit the beta version of 10mag.com and select your region of Korea, then add your own “Event” to our Calendar or you can add your own “Place” to our Directory. You can also rate and review the existing Events and Places for yourself, just like you would rate and review books on $PD]RQRUEXVLQHVVHVRQ<HOS)XWXUHYLVLWRUVZLOOEHQH¿W from your expertise and you can hear what others think about
the events and businesses all around you no matter where you are in Korea. And with our social media-like Community, you can meet friends and make your own groups, either public or private, where you can focus your topics on anything you’d like - from Korean politics to the time of your ultimate frisbee game this weekend. Other great features like &ODVVL¿HGV and Forums are on their way. We hope you’ll visit 10mag.com today to see what we’ve put together, join our 10mag.com discussion group to tell us what you think of the new site and let us know how we can better meet your needs as well. We also hope that you’ll thank the people above who made it happen when you run into them. We certainly will.
October 2011 vol. 4 No. 1 Nationwide Calendar
4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean
42 Movies Bridesmaids, Rise of the Planet of the Apes, Take Care of My Cat
6 Contributors 8 Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers
43 TV Animal Farm on SBS
9 The Reader’s 10
44 Music Toro y Moi, Gypsy & The Cat, Dal Shabet
10 10 Questions Laurence Burrows at the British Embassy
45 Tech The Growing Mac Market
12 History The Haunted Streets of Seoul
Regional Calendar 46 Seoul Restaurant Review Bistro Tin
14 Taste of Korea Duck
49 Seoul Editor's Pick SPAF
16 Expat Expertise Shopping for Electronics
62 Gyeonggi Editor's Pick So Music + Wine Festival 63 Gangwon Discovery Kangwon Land
20 Editor’s Pick
64 Chungcheong Discovery Chungju Lake
Shot by Simon Bond
18 Korean Destination Busan in October
66 Jeolla Editor's Pick Korea Food Festival 68 Gyeongsang Editor's Pick Jinju Lantern Festival
Formula 1 Korea Grand Prix Shot by Mike Luedke
24 Asian Destination
5 Tips for Hong Kong 34 The Hotel & Resort Chefs 36 Expat News 38 Gastronomic News 72 A Happy Ending
70 Jeju Discovery Fighting with Furey
Ow nerChefs 28
Starting your own business is a challenge. Cooking up tasty food for picky customers day in and day out—that’s a challenge, too. We profile 12 foreigners who are doing both.
For information about performances by Chick Corea, Stryper and Yanni, see the Seoul calendar’s concert listings on page 49.
10’s Original Benefactor
ou are holding the first issue in 10 Magazine’s 4th year of existence: Vol. 4 No. 1. It’s hard to believe that only three years ago this magazine was just a dream. After twelve years of living in Korea I had ventured into a lot of different fields. I had become pretty fluent in Korean, taught English for years, got an MA in Teaching Korean as a Second Language, become a visiting professor at Sangmyung University, tried my hand at a few different TV shows, and published a couple of Korean language books. But then it was time to try a more ambitious venture. Korea needed a quality English, event-focused magazine just like most other major cities in Asia had. Tokyo had Metropolis, Beijing had That’s and City Weekend, Hong Kong had HK and Time Out and Bangkok boasted The Big Chili among others. But what did Korea have? At the time it was slim pickings. Sure, there were fewer English-speaking expats than in those cities, but I thought the market was still big enough and that it would soon grow to be much bigger. (I didn’t account for near world-wide economic collapse and a mass exodus of expats right after our first issue, however!) I was willing to give up my professorship and bet a few years of blood, sweat and tears as well as my life’s savings on the fact that the market was there and that we could help expats participate more fully in all that Korea has to offer. One major obstacle stood in my way though—my savings wouldn’t cover all of the start-up costs. After studying Korean for my first couple of years here and then paying for my master’s degree, there wasn’t enough left to start a magazine. Believe it or not, there’s not a ton of money in Korean language textbooks, and TV here doesn’t pay as much as you think. Korean banks aren’t exactly open-minded when it comes to making small business loans to foreigners. Where to go for the rest of the money? To appropriate a Korean phrase, I went to the Bank of FM. (FM 장학금 is a “scholarship” supplied by your Father and Mother). My father, who had a habit of taking ailing facto-
10 Magazine Vol. 4 No. 1 is dedicated in loving memory of
John Joseph Revere October 31st, 1942 September 9th, 2011
4 | 10 Magazine October 2011
ries and turning them into money-making machines, was an astute businessman. In his lifetime he had always made those machines for other people, however, so he only had the money he had diligently saved over the years for both of my parents’ retirement. The money to start 10 would be a dent in their savings and they had reason to be reluctant. My father had always been a type A personality—organized and hard-working. I had always been type B—rather disorganized and easy-going. When the day to make the decision finally came, however, my dad agreed and made what he probably thought of as one of the craziest investments of his life; he loaned me the money I needed to start 10. After only three years of 10’s operation, my father passed away at 68 last month, one day after one of his usual bike rides. This one happened to be 45 miles. With his death, he fulfilled one of his biggest wishes; he was healthy until the day he died. Absolutely no one expected it, least of all me. My dad will never get to see what 10’s future holds, and that’s disheartening to say the least. We’ve only laid the groundwork with our first three years, and we’re poised for great growth in the next couple of years. I never got a chance to pay him back in full, so my mom will have to take the remainder with interest. A few more years would have been wonderful, but I’m incredibly thankful that he got to come to Korea for my wedding this past May and I’m glad he got to see my office, meet the great team we’ve assembled here at 10 and meet a lot of my good friends, many of whom helped reassure him of the upward trajectory in which 10 is headed. I normally avoid talking about my personal life in this column, but I hope you’ll grant me this indulgence for our 3-year Anniversary Issue. S te p he n R e v ere M a n ag i n g E d ito r
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Youngrae Kim is currently in his 4th year at the Catholic University of Korea and is thinking about what he will do after graduation. He has been helping with 10 Magazine since this July and is very happy to be involved with the magazine. He loves playing basketball and watching musicals. He is also interested in learning other languages.
Leroy Kucia (p. 72) is from Chicago, Illinois, and enjoys traveling and exploring the idiosyncrasies of world cultures. He earned an MFA in commercial illustration from the Savannah College of Art and Design in Savannah, Georgia, and is a contributing artist to the Gwangju News Magazine and Art Elemento Magazine. Leroy currently teaches English in Gwangju and is a founding member of the Gwangju Artist Collective.
Jeff Liebsch (p. 18) has been living in Busan since 1997, where he relocated from Windsor, Ontario, after working in PR in Detroit, Michigan. He also is a correspondent for Eurobasket, covering the Korean Basketball League, and runs the Busan I’Park English site. He currently serves as the Managing Editor at Busan Haps Magazine (busanhaps.com).
Mike Luedke (p. 24) is a recovering American expat coming off a little over a year in Korea and a few months thereafter on the dusty trail. He discovered in that time that scuba diving is the proverbial bomb. He’s currently grinding it out with venture-backed start up Offermation.com and ghostwriting a book on philanthropic giving. Follow him on Twitter @mluedke.
Stafford Lumsden (p. 45) writes about technology, education and politics, and is a blogger, ESL teacher and full-time student. Co-host and producer of the SeoulPodcast, he spends far too much time playing Playstation. stafford.squarespace.com
Contribute to 10 Magazine • Share your knowledge with our readers • See your work on the printed page • Receive vouchers, tickets, and other perks 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and writing and to provide articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at email@example.com. 6 | 10 Magazine October 2011
Contributing Editors Michael Berry, Simon Bond, George Marshall Brown, Todd Bruns, Dominique Buck, Jim Cheney, Eun-kyu Choi, Judith Ann Clancy, Matthew Crawford, Matthew Crompton, Alexandra DeMaria, Samantha Dix-Hill, Austin Farwell, Curtis File, Ciaran Hickey, Salema Khanum, Young-rae Kim, Leroy Kucia, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Jeff Liebsch, Kathy Lim, Michael Luedke, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Alyssa Perry, Mary Rager, Jason Teale, Martyn Thompson, Bryce Weibley, Soyeon Kimberly, Yoon, Vai Yu Art Director
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DEPARTMENTS Blog of the Month
Korea by the Numbers
Percentage of unmarried women between the ages of 20-39 who consider marriage optional. Only 35% of men in the same age group responded the same way.*
Percentage of 40-year-old women who were unmarried in 1985. This increased to 7% in 2010.**
Average age at which Korean women first get married.**
Average age at which Korean women have their first child.** *Duo Human Life Institute, **Statistics Korea
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Chosun Bimbo —a sassy twist to the name of the popular Korean newspaper the Chosun Ilbo. But don’t let the name fool you. Behind the screen is no actual bimbo but rather a man, Stafford Lumsden. It’s simply Lumdsden, shaved or unshaved, who has been a long-term expat in Korea for nearly 8 years and is a true vet as far as we’re concerned. Stafford seems to have an opinion about anything dealing with mass media and technology. And we, as well as many of his loyal readers, don’t mind it one bit. (He is, after all, our monthly tech and gear columnist!). The blog is a source for all things hip, new, and trendy, or at least in the cyber world. Case in point: recently, he had a Google+ Ha ngout , wh ich wa s uploa de d on his blog, with Jeff Lebow of Kore abr idge .ne t a nd Mat t hew Weigand, editor of the Korea IT Times, to discuss online privacy concerns in Korea and the rest of the world. Lumsden keeps his followers well-informed with reviews, commentaries and news as well as offers little glimpses of his life with photos taken on his iPhone or public announcements about his life-long affinity for cupcakes. We’re pretty sure these pastries will never take the place of the newest streamlined gear in this bimbo’s heart. Well, not anytime soon.
THE READER'S 10
What’s Your Favorite Expat Blog on Korea?
e had a lot of issues with The Reader’s 10 this month but we certainly learned a lot as well. First, as we had just opened our new 10mag.com website in Beta format, we had some problems—the search function was very limited, so many people couldn’t find the post. Then we decided to keep people from cheating with IP randomizers, so we blocked the viewing of the poll until users logged in to our site. As our astute writer Charles Montgomery pointed out in the comments, that probably discouraged voting as people couldn’t see the results before signing up for the site. At the same time, our topic was “What’s your favorite Korean blog?” and while this is always a relevant topic, it is also to some degree a measure of blog influence, as many of the real winners are blogs that have a solid following and tell them to vote in our poll. Now we present to you the results of our Reader’s 10:
10 Roboseyo roboseyo.blogspot.com 9 Seoul Eats seouleats.com 8 Rip City to Seoul ripcitytoseoul.com 7 The Marmot’s Hole rjkoehler.com 6 Gusts of Popular Feeling populargusts.blogspot.com 5 Zen Kimchi zenkimchi.com 4 Chris in South Korea chrisinsouthkorea.com 3 Alien’s Day Out aliensdayout.com 2 Durkee in Korea mikedurkee.com
1 Eat Your Kimchi eatyourkimchi.com You can pretty much break these videos down into four categories: blogs that deal with politics and social issues (Roboseyo, The Marmot’s Hole, Gusts of Popular Feeling), blogs on fun stuff to do (Rip City to Seoul, Chris in South Korea), food blogs (Seoul Eats, Zen Kimchi, Alien’s Day Out), and the new top category this year: video bloggers or “vloggers” (Durkee in Korea, Eat Your Kimchi). Congratulations Eat Your Kimchi! You’ve earned a win with your useful and informative videos on Korea and a massive fan base. Well done. Next month’s question:
What is your favorite video in our Korea Awaits! Video Contest? After the final entries for the contest are submitted on September 30th, we’ll be uploading them to the website to have them ready for you to view the next Sunday. Public voting will be taking place on 10mag.com between October 2nd and 9th. The ten videos that receive the most votes will then be sent to our panel of judges, who will decide the final order. Read about the people’s choice for the Korea Awaits videos on this page in our November issue. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 9
10 Qu estions 1. How did you get interested in working for the UK foreign office? I first became interested in the foreign office at university where I wanted to do something that would be a good fit with my course, which was politics with economics. I then discovered and successfully applied for an internship at our London headquarters over a couple of summers. I enjoyed it so much I decided to pursue a full-time job. People with an interest in different cultures, languages or foreign politics, economics and trade, climate change or making a difference to British nationals abroad should consider applying for vacancies in the UK or at our embassy in Seoul. 2. Prior to Korea, you served in Mozambique. Can you share an interesting experience from your time there? I spent some time working in the political and management sections of the British high commission (equivalent of an embassy) in Maputo, Mozambique. The experience was fascinating, but I especially enjoyed eating spicy Mozambican prawns in piri-piri sauce (camarões), practicing my ropey Portuguese and getting to know the people of a beautiful but sadly very poor country.
Troubleshooter for Brits Abroad Laurence Burrows,
Vice Consul at the British Embassy in Seoul Edi t e d by Dav i d Ca r r u t h , S H ot by Dy l a n G o l d by
here can British nationals in Korea turn when faced with sudden bereavement, sexual assault, and other emergencies? One not-so-obvious answer is the British Embassy in Korea. One of the embassy staff who helps Brits experiencing difficulties here is Vice Consul Laurence Burrows. 10 had a chance to ask Laurence a few questions about his experience in the foreign office and the services provided by the British embassy in Seoul.
10 10 Magazine October 2011
3. You also taught English on Jeju Island with the Korean government’s Teach and Learn in Korea (TaLK) program. What was your experience like there? Fantastic! TaLK is a great program which speaks to the strengths of dynamic Korea. I’d recommend it to anyone with a sense of public service who wants to make a difference. I made lots of friends and memories that I’ll cherish for years to come. It was an amazing introduction to Korea, and, well, who can complain about living five minutes from the beach? 4. What advice would you offer to those of our readers who may be teaching English? Enjoy it. This is probably one of the best places in the world to be a TEFL teacher. Make sure you understand what you’re getting into, though. Read your contract carefully. Pay particular attention to break clauses, health and accident insurance arrangements (including any exclusions) as well as f light/accommodation
provisions. Don’t be afraid to seek feedback or references from previous teachers at your school. Leave ample time to get your documents in order for your visa and check the requirements rigorously. Protect yourself in advance by taking time to think about what you would do if things went wrong. I find the four Ps useful: proper preparation prevents problems. 5. As vice consul at the British Embassy in Seoul, what are your typical day-to-day responsibilities? Day-to-day, I manage the part of the embassy which deals with looking after Brits in Korea. There are effectively two strands to this work: providing consular assistance and services, and planning for crises and emergencies affecting the British population. I’m also responsible for the British Honorary Consulate in Busan, our network of British community wardens, registering births and deaths, and conducting citizenship ceremonies. The work is diverse, fast-paced and interesting. I like it because the issues we cover directly impact real people’s lives. 6. What are some of the ways that the embassy is able to help out British nationals? We help British nationals in lots of ways. Sometimes people have simple queries about our services. Other times such as for victims of crime or assault, visiting people in hospital, helping families cope with bereavement, visiting Britons in prison, or helping track down missing persons, the level of support we provide is more involved. All cases are dealt with confidentially. We are here to support, not to judge. We provide emergency travel documents to those who have lost their passports, and Britons come to see us when they want to get married in Korea. Details of our services can be found at hUKinKorea.fco.gov.uk. Follow the link that says “Help for British nationals.” 7. Is there anything that the embassy can’t assist with? Unfortunately, we can’t pay for anything on your behalf, like your hospital bills or flights home. We can’t provide legal advice; become involved in legal, contractual or property disputes; help you get a Korean visa (or answer questions concerning these); or facilitate your entry into the country. However, we can normally refer you to people who can help you with those issues. Perhaps the biggest misconception is that the embassy can get you out of prison—we can’t. Nor can we secure you better treatment than that afforded to Korean nationals in prison or hospital. 8. Do you have any tips for new arrivals to Korea? Do your research. Korea is a fantastic country but, as anywhere else, it’s not without its hazards. Read our travel advice at fco.gov. uk/travel and register with your embassy: check their website to find out how. Make sure you are adequately insured (both in and out of Korea) and don’t be tempted to take or traffic drugs, or to get into fights, as the penalties can be severe. That said, most visits to Korea are pleasant and trouble-free. 9. What are some common problems that expats in Korea face? Aside from some of the issues I’ve already mentioned, people often experience culture shock or find it difficult adjusting to life in Korea since the language, culture and food are so different from their own. People sometimes find the lack of home comforts (especially deodorant) difficult and find it hard to adjust to the weather. I’ve also heard complaints about clothing sizes. 10. How can expats avoid these? Fortunately, many of these problems become easier to cope with as you spend more time in Korea. Even so, it’s important to be an open-minded and responsible traveller. Remember you are a guest in a foreign country. Try new things and make an attempt to learn the language of the country you live in—I find it gets easier once you learn to read Hangul. It’s also a good idea to seek information in English through official sources rather than hearsay. And of course, if you’re struggling to find the right size, you could always buy your clothes abroad. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 11
The Haunted Streets of Seoul
The onset of night turned the busy streets of Seoul into dusky lanes frequented by veiled women, daring foreigners, sinister robbers, and even ghosts.
he night streets of Seoul have fascinated foreign visitors since Korea’s opening to the West in 1882. There was something mystical in the manner that the city transformed from day to night. During the hours of light, the bustling streets were the domain of men, children and animals, but during the hours of darkness they became the sequestered domain of women. Horace N. Allen, a missionary doctor living in Seoul in the mid-1880s, wrote:
“The street traveler will also hasten to his home or stopping-place, for between the ringing of the evening chimes and the tolling of the bell to announce the approach of dawn, all men must absent themselves from the streets, which then are taken possession of by the women, who even, then, as they flit from house to house with their little paper lanterns, go veiled lest some passing official should see their faces.”
10 Magazine October 2011
The only men allowed out at night were officials on business, blind men, and foreigners. One of these early foreign night prowlers was Percival Lowell, who spent the winter of 1883/84 in Seoul and provides us with one of the earliest descriptions of the Korean night watchman and his assistant. According to Lowell, the watchman carried a large lantern in one hand and swung a bell in the other: “He kept up this continuous ringing in order to give any thief that might happen to be about due warning to escape.” Those who were foolish enough not to escape were apprehended and bound with the chains that the assistant carried. But crime at night wasn’t really a problem because of the male curfew. By the late 1890s, the curfew had disappeared but the streets of Seoul still remained for the most part deserted. The dark and serpentine streets were now the haunts of thieves and highwaymen and even the police and night watchmen were not safe from their
Words BY Robert Neff Photos by Percival Lowell Courtesy of the Robert Neff collection
Top A military hat shop in Seoul in 1884 Previous page Korean onlookers in Seoul in 1884
depredations. One early Austrian visitor to the city felt that the approach of darkness cast the city into a brooding “death-like” silence. “The broad streets seem an immense cemetery, and the mean little f lat-roofed houses graves,” he wrote. He then went on to describe the denizens of the city as “robed in white—each and all mute” flitting through the streets of the endless graveyard until they disappeared into the depths of their tomb-like homes. But it wasn’t only the human monsters that the city’s residents feared. One palace was abandoned because it was claimed to be haunted by the spirits of those killed during a recent revolt. Spirits of executed prisoners were believed to roam the main streets near Jongno and Gwanghwamun. Near the Independence Gate, goblins and other malevolent spirits assaulted Korean travelers and cut their prized top-knots from their heads. But not all of the undead were Koreans. A ghost with “a white face, yellow hair, blue eyes and red lips” haunted some of the gates—its cry like that of a child. Japanese spirits were said to roam the streets as well. This compelled women (who were apparently especially vulnerable to these ghosts) to carry groundup red pepper to ward off their approach, as Japanese ghosts were said to fear red pepper. Westerners, however, seemed to have been exempt from these evils. Many of them lived in homes that were said to be haunted and yet, to the best of my knowledge, none of them ever reported seeing a ghost. With the introduction of modern lights and streetcars much of the fear of darkness dissipated. By the dawn of the twentieth century, as today, the streets of Seoul at night were filled with revelers going to or returning from parties and gatherings with friends. Banished by technology, the ghosts of Seoul today only remain in the worn pages of journals and history books. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 13
Shot by Dylan Goldby
A TASTE OF KOREA
Hitting the Duck Trifecta Origogi 오리고기 W o r ds by C i a r a n H i ckey e x e c u t i v e c h e f o f t h e w s e o u l wa l k e r h i l l
Duck-loving gourmands in Korea can have their favorite bird smoked, baked with sulfur, and stewed.
s in most Asian countries, duck is widely available in Korea, though it doesn’t reach the height of popularity it enjoys in China. It will always be playing second fiddle to hanwoo (한우, Korean beef) and dwaejigogi (돼지 고기, pork). There are three main ways to prepare duck, however, which are worth a look (and a taste, of course). Firstly, and without a doubt the coolest of the three is yuhwangori (유황오리, sulfur duck), which is a whole duck baked in a special clay pot. There is a place in Jamsil close to my apartment that does this but you need to give them a heads up as it takes hours to bake the dish. The whole duck is treated much like the chicken in samgyetang (삼계탕). It’s stuffed with rice, grains and various other medicinal herbs and spices. In some cases, the duck is apparently fed sulfur, which is said to have health benefits for humans. The duck is then wrapped in cheesecloth and baked for about four hours in a special clay pot that keeps the steam and cooking juices in. Once cooked the duck is served for the whole table together with the usual suspects at any Korean meal, the banchan (반 찬, side dishes). The heat inside the clay pot makes the skin very crispy, not unlike
14 10 Magazine October 2011
Peking duck. The texture of the meat is similar to the Southern-style barbecued pork shoulder used in pulled pork sandwiches and it’s surprisingly not as greasy as duck can sometimes be. The second style of cooking duck is in a soup or casserole called oritang (오리탕, literally “duck soup”). This is quite similar to other Korean soups. Generally, the broth is clear, but it can also be served slightly thickened. Regional preferences play a big role in how it is presented and which spices are added to the broth. Gwangju lays claim to the dish, with an entire street in Buk-gu devoted to oritang restaurants, and the soup is also featured in the Korean drama Jewel in the Palace (대장금). While not technically a health food, duck soup is firmly in the “well-being” camp of Korean dishes.
Finally is my favorite: hunje ori (훈제 오리, smoked duck). I had this first at an outdoor Korean cultural festival in Yangjae and have been a fan ever since. We cook it a lot here at the hotel and the smell alone will draw me from wherever I am to find it. It’s best when served hot right out of the oven just like in supermarkets where you will see the entire duck being cut up and packaged. I have even had bossam (보쌈, boiled pork) prepared with smoked duck. In this interesting dish, the pork is more roasted than boiled as in regular bossam. It goes especially well with crunchy cucumber and lettuce. While it may not have the fame of Jeju black pork or first grade hanwoo, Korea’s duck dishes are definitely worth seeking out.
Netizen’s Picks Canaan Duck 가나안 덕 This Old Testament-inspired restaurant handles its ducks from the cradle to the grave: breeding them, feeding them, and then feeding them to customers. Along with your meaty portions, get as many helpings as you want of the vegetable and side dishes. For dessert, try the sweet potatoes baked under the grill. 591-2 Pung-dong, Ilsandong-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi Province. canaanduck.com 031-907-4940
Golden Duck Farm 황금오리농장 Visitors to this “farm” find themselves seated at a stone table which also doubles as the duck grill. Along with generous servings of our de-feathered friends, the restaurant offers other treats including danpatjuk (단팥죽, red bean porridge) and noodles. 873-1 Sinjeong-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul. 02-2699-6974
Ttungattunga Oritdae 뚱아뚱아오릿대 If you’re looking to dine on duck that is as affordable as it is delicious, this is the place. For something completely different, try out duck served as tteokgalbi (떡갈비), which ironically is pronounced rather like “duck galbi.” 3-4 Yonghyeon 1-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon. 뚱아뚱아.kr 032-867-0092
Ex pat Ex per tise
Go, Go Gadget Shopper Where to Go to Find Sweet Deals on Electronics Words by Stafford Lumsden, shots by Judith Clancy and Matthew Crompton *
orea (and Seoul in particular) is a Mecca for shoppers looking for deals on electronics. From home appliances to cameras and computers to MP3 players, Seoul is bursting with options on places to shop, and for the brave, places to find a bargain.
Yo n g s a n E lectro n i c s M a r ke t
The term “market” is something of a misnomer when it comes to Yongsan. With three mall-sized complexes and shops and stalls stretching over three city blocks, Yongsan is more than a mere market. iPark Mall, part of the actual Yongsan Station complex, is probably familiar to anyone who has caught a train to or from Seoul and encompasses five floors. The 3rd floor sells MP3 players, cameras and other handheld goods. Subsequent floors contain notebook computers, household appliances, TVs, 1 DVD players and other video equipment, desktop computers made to order, video games and finally an entire f loor dedicated solely to mobile phones. Would-be shoppers should be wary however; prices are often nonnegotiable and better deals can be found elsewhere in Yongsan. A bridge connects the station to the Terminal Electronics Mall. Here you will find mostly computers and computer-related products. As a whole, vendors in the Terminal area of Yongsan have garnered a reputation for ripping off customers. Again shoppers should be wary, but at least vendors here will allow customers more hands-on time with their wares. Next up are two sections that specialize in a narrower range of products. Immediately in front of the Terminal Mall is Najin Electro World, your first stop if you are looking for either phones or video games. To the right of Najin Electro World is Seonin Mall, which is where you will head if you are looking for any specialist computer parts or planning to build your own machine. Located on the other side of Najin, ET Land (Jeonja Land) is probably the place you’ll go if you don’t have anything specific in mind. ET Land arguably offers the greatest range of goods, and up until very recently was the only place in all of Korea you could get after-sales support for anything Mac/Apple related.
• Hours: most vendors throughout Yongsan open around 10 am and close at 7 or 8 pm Monday - Saturday, while Sundays see at least half closed, with the exception of iPark. • Getting there: Yongsan Station (line 1, Jungang line) and Sinyongsan Station (line 4). Tec h n oma r t
1 A camera shop at Yongsan Electronics Market. 2 A customer examines a dika (디카, digital camera). 3 Yongsan Electronics Market has loads of audio equipment. 4 The Seun Electronics Market was the main place that sold electronics from the 60s to the 90s. Most of the vendors are moving to Yongsan and the building will be torn down and replaced with a park. 5 Seun Market is surrounded by a traditional market full of electronics vendors. NEXT PAGE Hi-Mart carries a variety of flat-screen TVs.
10 Magazine October 2011
Technomart has two enormous outlets in Seoul serving the east and west sides of the city and both are fairly similar in their layout and offerings. The nearly 2000 stores at both Gangbyeon (east) and Sindorim (west) sell a wide variety of goods as you would expect, but these are complimented at Gangbyeon by a CGV cinema, an E-mart, and numerous restaurants. Its proximity to public transit also gives it an edge over its western counterpart, being situated next to the Dong-Seoul bus terminal and across the road from Gangbyeon Subway Station. Technomart Sindorim, on the other hand, holds more events than Gangbyeon with kid-friendly activities like the Trick Art exhibition. It is also a popular choice for video game events, with
video game league gatherings, Pokemon launchings, and appearances by video game producer Hideo Kojima, to name some past events. • Hours: both Technomarts are open 10 am - 8 pm Monday through Friday and until 10 pm weekends and holidays. • Getting there: Sindorim Station (line 2, ex. 2); Gangbyeon Station (line 2, ex. 1 and 2) E lectro n i c s Re ta i l C h a i n s
Haven’t found your bargain at the markets above? Turn to one of the retail chains selling electronics in Korea. HiMart
HiMart is the only independent chain of any size, and so shoppers can find products from a number of manufacturers in the same place, allowing you to compare Samsung versus LG and Philips versus Sony. While prices at HiMart are fixed, they are seldom worse than Technomart and there will always be a salesperson on hand to help you, though don’t expect their English skills to be anywhere near those at Technomart or Yongsan. Expect the salesperson to hover over you as you browse. • Hours: 10 am – 8 pm Samsung Digital Plaza
The nation’s flagship brand also has retail locations throughout Korea. The advantage of shopping with Samsung is its extensive after-sales service, with most Digital Plaza stores having a separate “A/S Center” attached to them where you can bring in any Samsung product for repair regardless of where you bought it. These stores are less specialized but will carry at least one of everything Samsung makes. Samsung Digital Plaza puts an emphasis on TVs and home appliances but also stocks cameras, MP3 players and notebook and desktop computers. Unfortunately they may be out of stock of some items, and display merchandise is rarely up for sale. While they won’t order in that MP3 player you’ve had your eye on, with a little cajoling salespeople may ring around and find the closest Digital Plaza that has the item in stock. • Hours: usually 9 am - 6 pm LG BestShop
LG, like Samsung, has its own branded outlets stocking only its products. While Samsung emphasizes TVs, LG concentrates on its expertise in refrigerators and other whiteware. If you are looking for a washing machine with all the after-sales service you need, including delivery, installation and maintenance and repair, LG is definitely the place to start. • Hours: 9 am – 6 pm Electronics Markets Across Korea They may not be able to rival Yongsan in size, but they do offer a more convenient option for expats living in one of Korea’s other large cities. • Electron Zone Daegu
• Kumho World
• Gaya Computer Wholesale Store Busan
• Techno World
A variety of products and lots of vendors 1621 Sangyeok 2-dong, Buk-gu ezone.or.kr
Everything computers 156-2 Gaegeum 1-dong, Busanjin-gu gayatown.co.kr
Gwangju Not just electronics, but also musical instruments 12-17 Hwajeong-dong, Seo-gu ikumhoworld.co.kr
Daejeon Computers and peripherals 301 Mannyeon-dong, Seo-gu techno-world.kr 10 Magazine October 2011 | 17
Kor ean desti nation
Busan’s October Festivals Whether it’s movies, fashion or fireworks, there’s something for everyone in Busan this October. Words by Jeff Liebsch
ith beach season now officially over, you may be wondering if there’s still anything to do in Korea’s second largest city in October. While the bikinis and umbrellas have been packed up for another year, October presents Busanites with many entertaining opportunities. The weather may be a bit chilly, but there is no shortage of excitement around the city. With plenty of events for everyone to enjoy, Busan is a great destination for those looking to get away from the hustle and bustle for a couple days.
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Movies Anyone? The 16th version of the renamed Busan (formerly “Pusan”) International Film Festival (BIFF) gets underway October 6th through the 14th. Along with the new name, the festival is also getting a new director, as Lee Yong-kwon takes over the reins from Kim Dong-ho. Every year, around 200,000 film aficionados de s c e nd up on the cit y in orde r to c atch s o m e o f ove r 3 0 0 f i l m s a t t h e n i n e - d ay movie extravaganza. But it’s not just fans in attendance. Last year, Oliver Stone, Juliette Binoche, Willem Dafoe, Aishwarya Rai, and local heartthrobs Won Bin and Hyun Bin were just a few of the big names to grace the red carpet, and this year looks to be bigger and better. As an added bonus this year, the new 40,000 square meter Busan Cinema Center in Centum City opens its doors. Austrian firm Coop Himmelb(l)au’s design features an 85meter cantilevered roof over a public space that is based around a 4,000-seat outdoor cinema. When October 6th – 14th Where Busan Cinema Center, Centum City
Fashion Comes Back to Town Though not on the level of Seoul’s Fashion Week, the 2012 Spring/Summer Collections at Prêt-à-Porter Busan (papbusan.org) provide a glimpse into the newest trends in fashion from around Asia and Europe. The three-day event takes place at BEXCO (Busan Exhibition & Convention Center), showcasing ready-to-wear fashion and
Busan International Fireworks Festival City ambassador Choi Ji-woo returns to Busan as the excitement shifts a beach over to Gwangalli, where the Busan International Fireworks Festival (bff.or.kr) takes place. Starting in 2005 as a conclusion to the APEC Summit, the festival has grown from a one-night event into an eight-day beach party. Starting October 21st, the festivities kick off with the 2011 Super Model Pageant, a Hallyu Star Concert and an international fashion show. On the 22nd, an invitational fireworks show headlined by fireworks from around the globe lights up the Gwangan Diamond Bridge for the first of two huge shows. The main event concludes the festival on the 29th at 8 pm, when over 85,000 fireworks as well as a state-of-the-art laser light show illuminate the sky for 50 minutes, highlighted by the display of the world’s longest “Niagara Falls” which spans the entire bridge. A little over 1.3 million spectators visit each year, so head out early to get the best seats on the sand. When October 21st – 29th • Where Gwangalli Beach
the latest couture in an intimate setting lined with buyers, photographers and fashionistas. The shows take place in the afternoon, and tickets to the event are free, but you should get there early as shows all have large crowds and many are standing room only. When October 13th – 15th, Where BEXCO, Haeundae
A Place for Expats to Meet The Busan Global Gathering ( g l o b a l g a t h e r i n g .o r. k r ) t a ke s place on October 22nd this year at Naru Park in Haeundae, with plenty of activities for the whole family. Global Gathering (not to be confused with the club music festival held) started in 2006, and gives expats from around the world an opportunity to share their culture as well as forge friendships with locals, all in one place. This year’s gathering includes a Global Culture Zone, which displays traditional culture and cuisines from various countries. A Global Stage with music acts from Shanghai and Vladivostok as well as locally based foreign musicians will bring a mix of music that will keep you entertained for hours. The Global Experience Zone allows you to get a taste of over 30 different countries’ cultures firsthand. Trying on traditional costumes, experiencing Korean traditional folk life and watching plays from China, France and Japan are just a few events on offer this year. There are also other special events planned for the gathering, with many activities for children and free legal and health counseling available. When October 22nd , Where Naru Park, Haeundae
Whatever it is you’re looking to do this October, Busan has a little something for everyone. Hop on a train, plane, or bus, and enjoy the festivities that Korea’s second city has to offer. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 19
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If t h e previous event was any clue, the 2011 edition of the Korean Fo r m u l a 1 G r a n d P r i x should be filled with thrills as drivers become more comfortable with the Korean International Circuit. Last year’s nearly-didn’t-happen event was rife with drama as heavy rains and a slippery track challenged drivers to earn their multi-million dollar salaries as they struggled to find their way around the brand-new track. Near-constant bumps, crashes, lead changes, and eventually a race-deciding engine failure lent an unpredictability to a race that thrilled fans and international commentators, many of whom later described the race as one of the season’s most exciting. For 2011, defending world champion and current points leader Red Bull Racing’s Sebastian Vettel returns for a second attempt at the Korean circuit. Victory eluded him last year after he suffered a heart-breaking engine failure near the end of the race that allowed Ferrari driver Fernando Alonso to win the inaugural Korean GP and brief ly take the lead in the 2010 championship standings. Vettel has dominated the 2011 season and has a 92-point lead over teammate Mark Webber, but the unpredictability of the Korean circuit and the inaugural Indian GP two weeks later will ensure that Vettel will have to put in a flawless performance in Yeongam if he is to win a second world championship. Aside from the action on the track, the world will also be tuning in to see how race organizers deal with the dismissal of Chung Young-cho, the head of the Korea Auto Valley Operation (KAVO), the organizing body for the Korean GP. Chung was dismissed earlier this year after being criticized for poorly managing the construction of the track and making questionable spending choices that led to a budget deficit for the project. Chung has denied fault and is suing the KAVO over his dismissal. The KAVO is a public-private joint venture between the Jeollanam-do regional government and corporate investors. The 2011 Korean Grand Prix will be held October 14th – 16th, with the race on the 16th, at the Korean lnternational Circuit in Yeongam City, just south of Mokpo in Jeollanam-do. Tickets range in price from W130,000 - W648,000 and can be purchased at interpark.com. The easiest way to get to Yeongam is to take the KTX to Mokpo, where free shuttle buses take spectators to the track from one of several locations in the city. For more information, visit the Korean Grand Prix’s official website at koreangp.kr/ html/en.
22 | 10 Magazine October 2011
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Asi an Desti nation
Five Ways to Experience
Wo r d s by M i k e Lu e d k e
“Hong Kong presents perhaps one of the oddest jumbles in the whole world.
It is neither fish, flesh, fowl, nor good red herring. The government and principal people are English, the population are Chinese, the police are Indian, the language is bastard English mixed with Cantonese, the currency is the Mexican dollar, and the element no more amalgamate than the oil and vinegar in a salad.”
Algernon Bertram Freeman-Mitford, 1st Baron Redesdale (1837-1916) Proper par adise
Technically, it’s a “special administrative region”—a sterile classification that belies its true character. Yet any attempt to characterize Hong Kong in a word or two lands you in another quandary: Hong Kong cannot be captured in a few short words or pictures. The best way to begin understanding Hong Kong is to explore it first hand with two feet on the ground—or a ferry, hiking trail, escalator, subway, tram, minibus, or cable car. It’s more than just the world’s most spectacular skyline, action-cinema epicenter, global financial hub, or convenient stopover en route to other exotic Asian destinations. It’s a place where land meets sea, city meets countryside, and tradition meets modernity. It’s an East-West cultural cacophony whose hard-fought harmonies are arranged into a symphony that is distinctly Hong Kong. A brief overview of 香港 : “The Fr agr ant Harbor”
sh o ts by M i k e L u e d k e a n d Va i Y u *
Top*: Hong Kong’s skyline is breathtaking by night or day. Bottom: Times Square is a shopping, bar-hopping, horse-racing, and generally fastpaced part of town.
10 Magazine October 2011
Situated on the southeastern tip of China’s Pearl River Delta on the shores of the South China Sea, Hong Kong is a historic crossroads of culture, commerce, and conflict. Colonial powers Portugal and England dueled with Chinese rulers over trading rights in this lucrative gateway to Asian markets. The Opium Wars of the 19th century rendered Hong Kong a British Crown Colony. The name “Hong Kong,” which may refer to the fragrant scent given off by incense factories along the Kowloon Coast, came into use
Sai Kung Pier Fish Market Fill up on fresh seafood, dim sum, and hot tea at Sai Kung Town.
at this time. Britain extended the original territory from Hong Kong Island in 1841 northwards to Kowloon Peninsula in 1860 and finally to the New Territories in 1898. The terms of the 99-year lease over the New Territories required Britain to cede control over Hong Kong to China in 1997. Over 95% of its 7,000,000 residents claim Chinese heritage, but the British imprint lingers on in this “one country, two systems” society. Besides having to drive on the left, its highly autonomous government, thriving capitalist economy and free speech distinguish Hong Kong from her mainland counterparts. First things first
When you book make sure your trip includes staying overnight on a Wednesday (more on that later). Avoid extreme heat and humidity by visiting Hong Kong in the fall or winter. Packing should be dictated by recreational preferences, whether you hope to hike nature trails, go biking, bum around on the beach, see the sites, or go for a trendy urban outing. Assuming you arrive via Hong Kong International Airport (HKG), find the Airport Express to take you to Central Station in the heart of Hong Kong. Purchasing a rechargeable Octopus Card ($50 HKD refundable deposit) at the customer service counter is highly recommended as it is accepted on all forms of transportation in the city, as well as at convenience marts, vending machines, and entertainment venues around town. Central Station is the hub of a highly efficient transportation system from which no destination is much more than an hour’s ride away on one or more forms of transportation. Keep this in mind when choosing your lodging. Any style can be matched, from couch surfing to tea-and-crumpet-nibbling at one of Hong Kong’s many upscale options like the Landmark Mandarin Oriental or The Peninsula. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 25
3* Five humble suggestions for how to spend your time
1. Skyline Hong Kong’s jaw-dropping skyline is undoubtedly its
pièce de résistance. Indulge your inner tourist and make the Peak Tram your first stop straight out of the gates of Central Station. At 400 feet above sea level, Victoria Peak allows a 360degree bird’s eye view of Hong Kong’s scenic diversity. Soak up skyline views with a backdrop of Victoria Harbor, sprawling Kowloon, and the rolling hills of the New Territories. You’ll find the best views by leaving the station and heading west to Lugard Road. Following the path, more green hillsides greet your eyes as you look over Hong Kong’s islands scattered across the South China Sea. Other incredible skyline views can be taken in day or night, notably from the Star Ferry or Kowloon’s waterfront viewing platform during the nightly laser show. 2. Shopping & Markets Visiting Hong Kong demands a stroll through some of its markets. Luxury brands and boutiques are available for high rollers. However, venturing into Hong Kong’s street markets offers a glimpse into its essence as one of the world’s premier trade ports. Highlights include Temple Street Night Market and Ladies Market, both accessible via MTR’s Mongkok Station. Tailored suits and shirts offer a unique shopping experience for men and women seeking custom swag. Punjab House is highly renowned for quality and style, but comes with a higher price tag. Jim’s Tailor Workshop and Raja Fashions are popular with expats for their quality and affordability. Keep in mind that three visits are usually required—the first for measurements, the second for fitting, and a third for pick up, although most shops will ship the final product to destinations abroad. 3. Historical & Traditional The Hong Kong Story at the Hong Kong Museum of History stretches from 400 million years in the past up to the 1997 reunification with China, but you can cover the highlights in about 1-2 hours. The Museum of Coastal Defence is a historic monument honoring Hong Kong’s stand against the Japanese invasion of 1941, not to mention a unique and interesting museum. Buddhist inf luence can be found throughout Hong Kong, but nowhere more prominently than the Tian Tan Buddha (aka “Big Buddha”—the largest sitting Buddha in the world) near the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island. Lantau Island is accessible by ferry or via MTR to the Ngong Ping cable car stop. From the Big Buddha, a hike along the Pilgrim’s Path to the west leads to Tai O, a traditional fishing village featuring old stilt houses lining waterways, fresh 26 | 10 Magazine October 2011
seafood restaurants, and beautiful sandy beaches in the nearby village of Cheung Sha. 4. Nature Escapes Don’t overlook Hong Kong’s natural beauty, which sometimes gets lost amid all the big city bustle. For starters, right in the middle of Central District is a sprawling botanical garden that offers quiet walking paths, shaded tree groves, and a handful of small primates swinging in their cages. Head outside of the city by taking a ferry to Lamma Island. Stroll through a charming village dotted with cafes and boutiques, past the playful Hung Shing Yeh Beach, and up through the rolling hills for a view of the sea, sand, and a stunning sunset. Stop at one of the seafood restaurants just past the ferry terminal for a fresh feast, or bring a picnic to enjoy on the beach or the hiking path. To the north, the New Territories offer some unexpected natural secrets. The Saikung Peninsula boasts several hiking trails and hidden beaches. If you’re up for a hike, follow the Maclehose Trail through the mountains, or take an illegal (read: frowned upon) speedboat to Tai Long Wan. Sometimes you’ll find surfers enjoying the waves, but you can expect to have the beach to yourself most of the time. 5. Food, Drink, & Nightlife The reason to stick around Hong Kong on a Wednesday night: Horse races at Happy Valley starting at 7:30 pm. Gain admission with your Octopus Card and you’ll find yourself rubbing elbows with anyone from blue-collar workers to bigwig bankers. Place your bets with plenty of time to grab a pitcher of beer, some Hong Kong style roast meat, and a view of the horses coming out of the gates. After the races, head to Wan Chai with the rest of the expats for what has the potential to turn into a wild evening. Any other night of the week Lan Kwai Fong, located in the Central District is the place where expats and natives quench their thirst. Clubs, pubs, bars, restaurants and more line the streets, some of them open until the sun comes up. If partying until sunrise is your scene, try Senses 99 where skills on guitar, bass, or drums might be the difference between going home alone or having company for another drink. One last thing
Hong Kong is a mash-up. Beyond the urban-countryside, EastWest, land-sea comparisons, the people of Hong Kong represent a diversity of backgrounds and experiences, from their mostly Chinese ethnic heritage to the pervasive use of English language
1 The Bank of China Building is arguably the most photogenic skyscraper in the world. 2 Wednesday night horse races at Happy Valley can turn into big fun. 3* The Ngong Ping cable car takes you up to see the Big Buddha. 4* Stunning scenery surrounds the world’s largest sitting Buddha (34 meters) on Lantau Island. 5 Be sure to look both ways before crossing Hong Kong’s bustling streets. 6 The action is heating up at Temple Street Night Market. 7* Dim sum is one of the reasons Hong Kong is considered a global food mecca. 8* Stacked durian fruit fill a display at a local market. 9 Shatin Inn’s Indonesian cuisine is one of the city’s international dining options.
and Western style. Take a moment between snapping pictures to ask a local for help picking the best items off the dim sum menu, for directions to their favorite beach, or just to say “Hello.” In doing so, you’ll find one of the principle sources of Hong Kong’s charm—her people. So, jump in headfirst, do as the natives do, and have a blast in one of the world’s premier international cities—Hong Kong.
Essential Eats: Hong Kong Traditional A trip to Hong Kong is incomplete without dim sum. You’ll have to jostle a bit for your seats and eats at popular spots like Lie Heung Tea House where crowds gather around breakfast and lunch to grab morsels from the passing food trolleys. RUNNER UP: Roast goose from the legendary Yung Kee Restaurant (yungkee.com.hk). International Mouthwatering satays served with peanut sauce and a refreshing Gado-gado salad make the Indonesian cuisine at Shatin Inn worth the trip off the beaten path. RUNNER UP: Chungking Mansion’s unsavory reputation can’t hide the incredible Indian food on its second floor.
KAG53@73F?73F Seafood It’s no secret among Hong Kongers that Lamma Island’s 8G>>E3>3643D seafood is the best in town. Hop a ferry and head to Rainbow Seafood Restaurant (rainbowrest.com.hk) and you’ll understand the hype. : Boardwalk, beach, bomb seafood: Sai Kung Town. 477DA@F3B RUNNER UP
Late-night Few foods satisfy the drunken soul like a greasy breakfast. With two convenient locations open 24/7 in the party hubs of Wan Chai and Lan Kwai Fong, The Flying Pan serves up a delicious fix. 5A RUNNER =D UP: Can’t get enough garlic sauce on Ebeneezer’s kebabs (ebeneezers.com)—open super-late near hot spots around town.
$)+&++#+ Private Kitchens Make reservations well in advance, get precise extra cash to get involved in one of the a`Va`Y directions, and bring some'8 world’s most unique food fads. World caliber cuisine cranked out Wag^]adWS 5SXW4W`
by rock-star chefs, such as Chef Alvin Leung Jr’s Bo Innovation (boinnovation.com) serving “X-treme Chinese.” RUNNER UP: The braised ribs at Yellow Door Kitchen (yellowdoorkitchen.com.hk) are a thing of [f$ EfSf[a`7j ;fSWia`beauty, and so is the jazz music down one floor at Blue Door. ;fSWia`Da
10 Magazine October 2011 | 27
Food Is a Serious Business 12 Foreign Restaurant Owners Who Are Their Own Chefs Or, How to Have Your Cake and Bake It, Too
Words by David Carruth and Matthew Crawford Shots by Dylan Goldby, Hugh Lee, Kyounghee Lim and Alexandra Demaria
28 10 Magazine October 2011
OKitchen owner Susuma Yonaguni relaxes on a table covered with freshly picked produce.
lenty of people start their own businesses, and plenty more make a living in the kitchen. But it takes a pretty gutsy kind of person to do both at the same time. The twelve people profiled below fall into that category, but theyâ€™ve taken it a step further. These foreigners have opened restaurants, and staffed the kitchen themselves, all while living in Korea. The entrepreneurs in this article come from eight countries and serve ten kinds of cuisine, but theyâ€™ve all got one thing in common: the uncanny, uncommon ability to run a kitchen and a business at the same time.
Gre g oi re M ichot D.C., D.G.
Born in Korea but raised in France, Gregoire Michot made a triumphant return to the peninsula in 2006. Recently, he has opened up the Patisserie Michot in order to bring traditional French confections to Korea, a country better known for its rice cake and red beans than its authentic pastries. Gregoire is especially proud of his Paris-Brest and éclairs. On top of preparing these treats, he must deal with administrative and accounting issues and the challenges of adapting to the ever-changing needs of the Korean restaurant industry. As if the bakery weren’t enough, Gregoire will soon be adding a restaurant to his culinary empire with the opening of Le Grand Condé, which is named for both the magnificent diamond and the 17th century French general who possessed it. Patisserie Michot
118-62 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 010-5459-9987, 02-6397-9987
K ev i n C yr M.C., H.L.
Hard-working Canadian Kevin Cyr started out in the trenches of food entrepreneurship in Korea, with an Itaewon street cart. As his legendary chili burgers attracted a larger fan base, he was able to establish a restaurant in Itaewon and in Dogokdong. Kevin began cooking at an early age, growing up in a family environment where great home-cooked food was a part of life. No one else in his family liked spicy food, he says, so he had to learn how to cook chili and other such dishes on his own. His greatest challenges now though are negotiating the language barrier and procuring imported meats, spices and cheeses. “Koreans are becoming more and more demanding when it comes to authentic international food,” he observes. This bodes well for one of the highest quality chili and burger joints in the country. Chili King
118-62 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul chilikingkorea.com 02-795-1303
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M at T Koop
Matt Koop, a Vancouverite who has been in Korea since he was 22, has been a steady presence behind the bar and inside the kitchen at Hollywood Bar and Grill since he began working there in 2009. His experience in the food industry in Seoul runs deep; before joining up with several partners to buy Hollywood, he worked for two years as a chef at Sortino’s Cucina Italiana. Since his overhaul of the Hollywood menu, some customers have begun doing the nearly unthinkable—visiting a bar for the food instead of the drinks. The pepperoni and mushroom pizza, in particular, has become a word-ofmouth sensation, though Matt also proudly stands behind his soups and burgers. He enjoys getting the chance to meet people from all walks of life, especially fans of his hometown hockey team, the Vancouver Canucks.
Tyler Deuling of Canadian bar Rocky Mountain Tavern originally comes from Whitehorse, one of the biggest cities along the Alaska-Canadian Highway. Tyler arrived in Korea in 2003 and, undaunted by the fierce competition of the Korean food and drink industry, founded RMT together with two fellow countrymen, Craig Roessel and Jamie Cottin. When asked about the best dishes among their Western meals and appetizers, Tyler automatically mentions the wings. Their twelve flavors, from Killer Hot to Creamy Cool, have made RMT’s Tuesday night special (W300 each) an Itaewon institution. Through Tyler and the RMT boys have wrestled with difficulties like finding North American ingredients and reliable suppliers thereof, screening sporting events such as the 2010 Olympics gold medal hockey game between the US and Canada has made the bar as wild as any Whitehorse tavern.
Hollywood Bar and Grill
123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-749-1659
Rocky Mountain Tavern
736-12, 2nd Floor, Hannam 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul rockymountaintavern.com 02-792-5392
M ar i a Joelma Bat i sta K i m
Susu ma Yonagu n i
Few national cuisines are as meat-heavy as that of Korea, where eating grilled pork and beef is one of the national pastimes. This is why opening a Brazilian barbecue restaurant in Seoul makes perfect sense. Maria Joelma Batista Kim and her husband have done just that with Copacabana Grill, which specializes in churrasco, a tantalizing variety of sizzling, skewered meat. They are also proud of their feijoada (Brazilian beans), which is served at the salad bar, managed mainly by Maria. A true culinary ambassador, Maria takes pride in promoting Brazilian food in Korea, not only at the dining tables but in the kitchen as well, where the Korean staff is trained in all the techniques of Brazilian barbecue. Through the 13 years she’s spent in Korea she may have achieved the incredible feat of intensifying the love of meat in Korea.
Though he is originally from Okinawa, Japan, Susumu Yonaguni specializes now in New York-style cuisine. He entered the restaurant industry in England in the early 70s, when he ran out of money while hitchhiking and took a job as a dishwasher. Now he’s been in Korea for ten years and has an elite team of kitchen staff from France, Italy, and Australia working under his guidance. Every other day, Susumu visits Noryangjin Fish Market, the largest in Seoul, to procure the necessaries for his seafood plate. Meanwhile, he grows his own vegetables and herbs on a farm near Dobong Mountain in northern Seoul (“Otherwise you cannot cook in this country,” he says. “Herbs are too expensive”). If you aren’t impressed yet, ask him about his line of pâtés, his breads, and his desserts, all of which are made on the premises.
119-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul copacabanagrill.kr 02-796-1660
3-19 Itaewon, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. okitchen.pe.kr 02-797-6420
10 Magazine October 2011 | 31
R a i K ahara M aa n D.C., A.D.
In Nepali, “Kasam” means an unbreakable promise. It’s also the name of the restaurant in Suwon operated by Rai Kahara Maan. Rai came to Korea in 2004 from the city of Baglung in southern Nepal in search of a reliable source of income. His experience working as a chef in Nepal made it natural for him to choose the restaurant business. It hasn’t been easy, though, with out-of-thekitchen issues ranging from the electricity bill to employee insurance. Perhaps because Rai has known financial difficulties, he keeps prices affordable: items on the set menu start at W10,000. Among the Nepalese and Indian dishes at the restaurant, Rai is most proud of his tandoori chicken, naan, and lassi. Preserving tradition while tweaking his recipes to make them acceptable to the Korean palate is just one more challenge for this indefatigable chef. K asam Indian Restaurant
11-3 Maesan-ro 1-ga Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do kasamfood.net 031-252-9771
10 Magazine October 2011
Dr . Sha p ou r Nasrollah i
Dav i d L auck n er
M atsu do Tosh io
For many years, while studying medicine in Seoul, Dr. Shapour Nasrollahi also studied the tastes of Koreans and their reactions to his Iranian dishes. He learned that the salty flavors preferred by Iranians are not so agreeable to Koreans, and he set about crafting authentic Iranian dishes with sweet and spicy flavors. The result of his empirical labor of love is Persian Palace, where the Iranian curries are made on a graduated scale of spiciness. Patrons ordering a level 5 to 10 curry are urged to “seek counseling” from Dr. Nasrollahi (who should know, as he studied psychology at Seoul National University). Aside from the curry-based dishes, another special recommendation of Dr. Nasrollahi is the koobideh kebab, made of lamb, chicken, or beef. Through his food and exceptional service, Dr. Nasrollahi has gained a number of regular customers who always leave completely cured.
How many restaurants get voted “Best Field Trip of the Year” by school kids? David Lauckner, proprietor and pizza man at The Pizza Peel, can claim that honor after showing students how to make their own pies. David opened up his pizzeria in 2010 after being trained by Master Chef Biagio Longo at Mami Camilla Cooking School in Sorrento, Italy. This was not his first stint as a chef, as he had worked at a number of restaurants back home in London, Canada, but it was his first time running a business. The experience has helped him learn more about his own strengths and weaknesses as he has dealt with everything from lackluster employees to the fact that Koreans require pickles with their pizzas. But he enjoys the chance to meet a variety of people from all over the world, and people from all over the world are enjoying the variety of calzones and pizzas on his menu (from the standard Pepperoni to the eye-catching Buffalo Ranch).
Just before closing time, a Japanese man walked into Matsudo Toshio’s sushi bar in the US. Though it was getting late, Matsudo served up his countryman a proper meal, and the two ended up spending the whole night drinking and talking, connected by their love of Japanese cuisine. This is a love that Toshio has cultivated during his 43 years as a sushi chef. From the sushi bar in Ginza where he learned the basics to the swanky restaurant in Hong Kong where he honed his skills, he has lived by the creed that sushi comes from the heart and that you should never serve your customers any less than the best. Guests at Sushi U can experience Toshio’s dedication to the art of sushi by choosing the omakase course: sit at the counter across from Toshio and chat with him as he prepares a unique meal of sushi that you will not soon forget.
Persian Pal ace
121-1, Myeong-ryeon 2-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul persianpalace.com 02-763-6050
The Pizza Peel
34-65 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Facebook: The Pizza Peel Seoul. 02-795-3283
949-1 Daechi 2-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 135-847 sushiu.net 02-553-7870
Mostafa R h i t i D.C., D.G.
Shawkat Ku rdi D.C., D.G.
There will soon be a new addition to the Moroccan sandwiches and Turkish kebabs of Itaewon’s late-night street food scene. Lebanese culinary entrepreneur Shawkat Kurdi has outfitted a truck and will be selling sandwiches stuffed with mushrooms, mozzarella cheese, and beef tenderloin. This is the latest of many ventures by the creative chef, who traces his passion for food to his grandfather. Back in Lebanon, Shawkat ran a business providing Arab food to traveling VIPs and later opened a Chinese-Lebanese fusion joint and a bean-oriented vegetarian restaurant. When his Korean wife asked him to accompany her to her homeland, he decided to bring Beirut to Korea—literally. At Beirut, the only Lebanese restaurant in the country, Shawkat serves up fatteh, tabbouleh, baba ghanoush, and barbecue, as well as some of the biggest, most satisfying kebabs you’ll ever eat. Beirut
There’s one thing that Mostafa Rhiti wants to impress upon would-be restaurateurs: know what you cook, and cook what you know. And if you’re looking for authentic Moroccan cuisine, there are few who know it better than Mostafa. Born in Fes, one of Morocco’s four “imperial cities,” Mostafa grew up in a family of cooks. Happy to undertake the family calling, he got a cooking degree and then positions at top hotels in Morocco. In 2002, he came to Korea to work as the chef for the Moroccan Ambassador and later opened Marakech Night (named for the Moroccan city) in Itaewon. Mostafa hasn’t found it easy to manage a restaurant and a kitchen at the same time, especially with the intensity of Seoul nightlife. While restaurants in Europe shut down at 11 pm, he notes, that’s when his starts getting busy. But he says it’s even trickier to reconcile his couscous, falafels, and tajine to the differing culinary expectations of his international customers. Marakech Night
2nd Floor, 131-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul marakechnight.com 02-795-9441
137-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-790-9865
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You’ve probably already read about the twelve restaurant owners and chefs that we profiled in our cover story, but we’re not letting you out of the kitchen just yet! In lieu of our normal Hotel and Resort News, this month we’re giving you a personal introduction to the culinary masters in charge of Korea’s finest hotels. Sous Chef Hwang Jong-Min at JW’s Grill
JW Marriott Seoul Chef Hwang has worked as Sous Chef at JW’s Grill for 11 years. He had extended his experience at Villa Blanca Hotel in Austria and has been awarded various prizes at international cooking competitions. His cooking style features simple and authentic tastes and his appreciation for international cuisine has been a great delight to many of the JW Marriott Seoul guests. At JW’s Grill, he prepares prime steak, lamb, king crab, lobster and seasonal dishes such as foie gras and truffles. A special wine gala dinner is held every other month. marriott.com 02-6282-6759
Sushi Master Hayashida Kazuhisa at Momoyama, Busan Lotte Hotel
Executive Chef Witold Szczechura
Renaissance Seoul Hotel Originally from Warsaw, Poland, Witold Szczechura is fluent in Polish, English and Russian. He has been with the Renaissance Seoul Hotel since 2010, taking care of all foods in the kitchens. A 20-year veteran of Marriott International, he started his carrier at Warsaw Marriott Hotel. He was the Executive Chef at Cebu City Marriott and has spent many years in numerous branches in Asia. He is also familiar with Korean food and culture, having worked as the Executive Sous Chef at Renaissance Seoul Hotel from 1999 to 2002. He spends his free time as an avid photographer with an affinity for landscapes and a blogger with a passion for Korean food. renaissanceseoul.com
10 Magazine October 2011
Busan Lotte Hotel has invited Sushi Master Hayashida Kazuhisa from Fukuoka, Japan, to celebrate Momoyama’s grand opening on the 43rd floor. Hayashida-san started his career when he was 18 and worked his way up until he became one of the most beloved sushi masters in Fukuoka. He saves you the trouble of dipping the sushi in soy sauce by adding the perfect amount of sauce to each piece. Enjoy the grand view over the ocean at Momoyama, Sushi & Sake bar. W80,000. lottehotelbusan.com 051-810-6360
Guest Chef Vincenzo Gatti at Restaurant Bene
Sheraton Incheon Hotel This month, the Sheraton Incheon Hotel has invited a guest chef from the Sheraton Shenzhen Futian Hotel to present the essence of Italian cuisine and wine. Vincenzo Gatti, a young and talented chef from Pugliese in southern Italy, has worked in numerous restaurants and hotels in the Netherlands, Germany and Dubai. He is eager to introduce “authentic familystyle Italian cuisine” at the Restaurant Bene, prepared with fresh vegetables, seafood and steaks. sheratonincheon.com 032-835-1716
Hansik Chef Kim Jae-sun
Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas Chef Kim Jae-sun has been with the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas since 2000. He specializes in traditional Korean cuisine (Hansik) and participated in the 2010 G20 as a specialty chef where he earned the chance to visit the blue house and serve President Lee Myungbak. He has visited numerous InterContinental Hotels including Thai Chef Atipong those located in Costa Rica, Sangthon at MoMo Café Paris, Germany, and more to Courtyard by Marriott showcase Hansik. His philosophy Thai cuisine carefully balances spices is sticking to the basics, as this is and herbs and sweet and sour flavors. the heart of Hansik. Chefs at the Seoul Courtyard by Marseoul.intercontinental.com riott will be making these harmonious blends all the more irresistible through October 31st. MoMo Café will offer a delicious dinner menu with enough variety and quantity to easily satisfy all lovers of Thai cuisine. Thai chef Atipong Sangthon from the Bangkok Marriott Hotel visited the hotel in September to train MoMo Café chefs and teach them Thai culinary secrets. Dinner Set A: W79,000++, B: W89,000++. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3081
+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge
Executive Chef Manuel Manzano
Spanish Restaurant Bodega by InterBurgo Spanish restaurant Bodega presents Spanish gastronomic culture with traditional food and wine. With the special touch of experienced Spanish chef Manuel, Bodega offers its guests the authentic taste of the homeland by only using ingredients directly flown in from Spain. Every Friday at 8 pm, guests can enjoy a passionate performance of a flamenco dance group at no extra charge. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686
Chef Lee Chan-oh at Italian Restaurant Verona
Imperial Palace Seoul Chef Lee, already a lover of classical music and fine art, studied abroad in Australia while working part-time at a restaurant. While there, he decided to become a chef himself to depict art in forms of food. With ten years of culinary experience at the age of 28, his biggest ambition and delight is to create a dish that is unforgettable, just like good music and fine painting. imperialpalace.co.kr
Executive Pastry Chef Beat Loeffel
Grand Hyatt Seoul Beat Loeffel is presenting a selection of his specialty bakery items at The Deli, a classic European bakery. Born in Switzerland, he studied at the Swiss Hotel School and has worked at a number of renowned venues around the world, including the Palace Hotel St. Moritz in Switzerland and the Dubai World Trade Center. Enjoy a wide array of authentic German breads including kraftkorn, vollkornbrot, pumpernickel, butterzopfe, and more at The Deli. Available daily from 8 am. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8167.
Executive Chef Stefano Di Salvo
Park Hyatt Seoul Stefano Di Salvo, born in Torino to a Sicilian father and a Neapolitan mother, started working in a small restaurant in Geneva when he was 15 years old. After that, he worked in several prestigious hotels for more than 10 years before joining the Hyatt in 2001. He spends his mornings selecting the freshest, best-quality ingredients at the market and devotes his passion and continuous efforts to creating unique, diverse cuisine. seoul.park.hyatt.com Cornerstone: 02-2016-1220, The Lounge: 02-2016-1205 10 Magazine October 2011 | 35
Expat News Edited by a ngela Lee a n d Dav i d Carru th
Citi Card Premium Dining Offers 10% Discount at Bulgogi Brothers
Citibank Korea is offering its card customers a 10% Premium Dining discount at Bulgogi Brothers, valid as of this past August 1st. Bulgogi Brothers is an innovative Korean restaurant where you can enjoy the smell
and taste of bulgogi in a smokeless, pleasant setting. And with the Citi Card Premium Dining Service, customers can enjoy the restaurant even more. This fall, Bulgogi Brothers is releasing the Special Korean Beef Set, made of even higher quality beef. As a launch event, the restaurant will offer Citi Card customers who purchase this set a glass of grape, plum or citron soda during the month of October. All Citi Card customers who purchase the Special Korean Beef Set at Bulgogi Brothers can also take part in a lucky draw for a one-night voucher at Sheraton Grand Walkerhill during the promotion period. Contact Bulgogi Brothers (02-526-7808) for more promotion details. citibank.co.kr
Full Fall Schedule for Daegu Theatre Troupe After their successful run of Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire, the Daegu Theatre Troupe is preparing their second annual Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre production. The show, just in time for Halloween, will be performed Saturday, October 29th at Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. Tickets are W20,000 and available at the cafe or through daegutheatre.com. In Novem-
ber, the Troupe’s sister company, the Daegu Musical Revue, is set to bring their premiere production to the stage featuring a wide range of musical acts. And in December, the Troupe will be bringing back the Holiday 24-Hour Theatre Challenge, taking place on December 17th. For more information, find them on Facebook or their website.
Busan Global Center Launches Free Korean Language Support For expats in Busan, learning Korean has just got easier (and cheaper). The Busan Global Center has designed a free Korean Language Supporters program. Each day, there are at least four volunteers in the center to help anyone who requires assistance. After only a month, this program has gained attention with services that include answering questions, oneto-one lecturing, free talking, and composition correction. With people from Japan, Europe, and North America participating in the program, the Busan Global Center has become an open area for anyone interested in improving their Korean. 051-668-7906 36 | 10 Magazine October 2011
More Quality Shows from Independent Organizer Super Color Super For the past two years, Super Color Super, an art collective, has been living up to its name by holding concerts with a colorful array of super indie bands from all over the world. No wonder the company, with a strong grassroots approach and loyalty to the independent-arts community, has been gaining a following with a series of shows by innovative bands like Xiu Xiu, Coco Rosie, and Caribou. Super Color Super has already expanded from Seoul to Daejeon, Daegu, and Busan, and is hoping to create a network across Asia. Indie music fans can look forward to more exciting shows in upcoming months with Max Tundra scheduled for October, Mogwai for November and Dan Deacon for January.
“Design Seoul” Policy Wins INDEX: Award 2011 The biennial INDEX: Award is a nonprofit organization that follows the motto “Design to Improve Life.” Unlike many international design awards, it is more human-oriented. The award is given in five categories: body, home, work, play, and community. This past September 2nd, the Seoul Metropolitan Government’s “Design Seoul” policy won the INDEX: Award 2011 in the community category. In previous years, Seoul has been recognized as the World Design Capital 2010 in 2007 and the UNESCO City of Design in 2010. This was the first time that an organization, not individuals, won the INDEX: Award. Design in Seoul continues to be recognized as the city pursues “design that cares for citizens.”
Mobileboo Makes Smartphone Purchases Less Scary SK Telecom Hulic, a specialized dealer for SK Telecom, has launched an all-English website, Mobileboo.com, that makes it easier for foreign residents to purchase smartphones, tablets, and broadband connections. Earlier this year, SK Telecom opened up the 24-month installment plan for smartphones and tablet PCs to customers with E2, E7, and F-visas (no co-signers needed). This change allows many long-term expat residents to take advantage of significant discounts on popular devices like the iPhone, Galaxy S2, and Galaxy Tab. For short-term residents, SK Telecom allows early termination on reasonable terms. An even bigger incentive is the phone’s longevity after Korea. Since SK Telecom’s smartphones are sold unlocked, subscribers can easily take their phone with them to use on another compatible WCDMA carrier anywhere in the world.
Free T-Shirt When You Get a Tat It’s been six years now since Sunrat Tattoo entered the body art business, and they’ve already made their mark in the scene with big events like the Ink Bomb Tattoo Convention, which they hosted earlier this year. For the month of October only, Sunrat Tattoo is thanking its supporters and customers with a special promotion in collaboration with Bastard-xxx T-shirts (bastard-xxx.com). Anyone who gets a tattoo at Sunrat will also receive a free Bastard-xxx T-shirt. sunrattattoo.com
N e wc o m e r
Whether you’re new here or a veteran of years, you can relate to these new arrivals to the peninsula. Life in a new country is always easier with a loved one. This is the case for British couple Sraous Modi, a lead process engineer for QatarGas, and Gemini Modi, compliance manager. With Samsung conducting a project for QatarGas, Sraous’s position required him to cross two continents and leave his and Gemini’s big families behind in the UK. At first, Gemini was a bit apprehensive about the move. Previously residing in Doha, Qatar, she had to quit her job but the prospects of beautiful scenery, culture, and a different way of life were appealing. Her husband, on the other hand, already loved everything about the Far East. Gemini will hopefully find ways to enjoy her passions—history and dance—in her new home. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 37
Gastronomic News Edited by K you ng - hee Li m a n d Dav i d Carru th
Burger King Launches New Spicy Burger
Sortino’s Cucina Redesigns Menu, Bar, and Display Case
Since fast food chains tend to cater to the lowest common denominator, it’s a challenge to find a burger that packs a spicy punch. But Burger King is looking to corner the chili-loving segment of the market with the new Spicy Tender Crispy Burger. See if you can handle the heat when you order a combo for W6,800 or just the burger for W4,800. You can cool down afterward with the free chocolate milk offered to guests who order the combo. burgerking.co.kr
Chilsung Cider Zeroes in On No-Calorie Drink It has no caffeine, coloring, or preservatives. There’s no chemical flavoring. No calories. Not even any sugar. No, we’re not talking about water, but rather Chilsung Cider Zero, the latest offering from Lotte’s soda manufacturer. They’ve replaced the sugar with natural sweetener erythritol, which in addition to being low-calorie doesn’t cause tooth decay. Chilsung claims that their zero drink tastes every bit as good as the original. Get a can of Chilsung zero cider for W900 or a 500ml bottle for W1,400. company.lottechilsung.co.kr
French food relies on the sauces, says Hwang Seokjun, manager at Sor tino’s Cucina, but Italian food depends on the freshness of the ingredients. This emphasis on fresh food is reflected in the recent renovations at Italian trattoria Sortino’s Cucina in Itaewon. The menu has been reduced to about a third of the original size to allow the chefs to focus on the core dishes and keep new ingredients in stock, and the menu items will be rotated with the season. You can try out the best daily ingredients at the restaurant bar, where you can order crostini (grilled toast with toppings) and other Italian delicacies along with house wine (W6,000 – W10,000). On the other side of the store is a new display case where you can see how the tomatoes, cheese, ham, and other ingredients look before they’re turned into a delicious bowl of spaghetti. sortinos-seoul.co.kr 02-553-9000
Makgeolli Learns to Think Outside of the Bowl Generally speaking, makgeolli is served in two ways: bottle and bowl. But t wo firms hoping to cash i n o n t h e m a kg e o l l i f a d have come up with some new ways to drink (and eat!) Korea’s traditional alcohol. First up is Crown Bakery (crownbakery.co.kr), which has put two years of blood, sweat, and intoxication into developing “makgeolli bread” made of Pocheon Makgeolli and wild rice. They claim that the bread has plenty of fiber and vitamin B and can help with fatigue, constipation, and blood circulation (but probably not with keeping you on the wagon). Second is Bohae (bohae.co.kr), which released their Sunhui brand of makgeolli this past March and is now selling it by the can. What’s next: canned wine?
New Kitchen at Rocky Mountain Tavern Serves Up Food Faster
10 Magazine October 2011
Some big changes have been taking place behind the scenes at Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon’s most popular Canadian pub. The kitchen was recently expanded by a third, which makes it easier for the chefs to cook and, perhaps more importantly for customers, makes it possible for food to be prepared much more quickly. You’ll notice the difference if you visit on wing night (every Tuesday). In addition to the upgraded kitchen, the RMT boys are currently putting the finishing touches on some additions to the menu. Along with a chicken melt sandwich, steak, and some vegetarian options, there are even some new wing flavors in the works. The new menu options will be unveiled sometime this month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327
What’s New in the Itaewon Food Scene W o r ds by DAVI D C A RRUTH , shot s by K at h y L i m
Most foreigners know that Itaewon is the place to go for authentic international eats, but some may not be aware just how quickly the restaurant scene can change. Read on for five new Itaewon establishments to get your foreign food fix. Pasha Kebabs Come out of Itaewon exit 3 and you’re liable to be waylaid by the Turkish ice cream man. The joint to the right is Pasha, a great spot for lunch, dessert, or both. Recommended: kebabs, Turkish ice cream 1F 188-1 Itaewon-ro. pashacafe.co.kr 02-797-2602
* * *
Carne Do Bra zil
It’s getting harder not to resist the decadent appeal of all-youcan-eat meat. Now joining the ranks of Cocacabana and Meat Packing is Carne Do Brazil, whose owner hopes to make it into an authentic Brazilian churrasqueria (BBQ restaurant). Recommended: steak and churrasco 2F 737-2 Hannam-dong. brasil.co.kr 02-790-1223
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Homestead Coffee shop Right outside of Itaewon Station exit 2, you can’t miss this new coffee shop. Yes, they’ve got your espresso, but they’ve also got eating options, all made with fresh, organic ingredients. Recommended: burgers, combo set 2F, 123-30 Itaewon-dong. homestead.co.kr 02-796-3535
VongO Spanish tapas Already tried out Spain Club? Just down the road is Vonga, a self-described tapas bar that is serving up some delish Spanish dishes. Along with paella and the standard tapas offerings, the restaurant has cochinillo (whole suckling pig). Recommended: montadito (open-faced sandwiches) 683-134 Hannam-dong. vongo.co.kr 02-797-7159
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Casual Mexican grill
What’s that you say—there are already enough Mexican restaurants in Itaewon? Tomatillo (with branches in Gwanghwamun and Gangnam) shows a different way to play the south of the border game. With four basic items (taco, burrito, quesadilla, tostada) and four meats (beef, pork, chicken, fish) to choose from, ordering is easy and fun. Recommended: chili cheese nachos, lime margarita 1F, 112-4 Itaewon-dong. tomatillo.co.kr 02-794-9225
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So Music + Wine Festival October 8th – 9th There are music fests, and there are wine tastings, but no one thought of putting them together until now. This, despite research published in 2008 which indicates that listening to classical music while drinking wine not only affects your impression of the wine but also increases your enjoyment of it. Organized by New Venture Entertainment, the So Music + Wine Fest gives wine connoisseurs (and music lovers) a chance to test out these theories. The event is the first of a planned series of yearly “collaboration festivals” that will match music with cultural activities including reading, champagne, chocolate, and fashion. [ Continued on page 62 ]
Directed by Paul Feig In recent years, I’ve become disenchanted with the wedding-related comedies being pumped out of Hollywood. With the nastiness of the Hangover franchise foremost in my mind, I was worried that Bridesmaids might just be more of the same. I’m pleased to say that this is the best comedy I’ve seen this year and is certainly one I’ll be eager to re-watch in the future. Kristen Wiig stars as Annie, an ex-baker, whose best friend is getting married. Annie is asked to be maid of honor, and what follows is a sometimes silly, often hilarious and occasionally touching journey into the madness and jealousy that weddings can bring into the lives of friends. Wiig steals every scene she is in, but she is joined by a strong supporting cast, with outstanding performances from Chris O’Dowd, Melissa McCarthy and Maya Rudolph. Freaks and Geeks creator Paul Feig proves that he’s ready to move from TV to the big screen, and the script from Wiig and Annie Mumolo manages to pack in emotional punches alongside broad comedy. This is not just a chick flick: there’s plenClassics of Korean Cinema
by Pa u l M at t hews
ty for the opposite sex to laugh at as well, though if you’re not a fan of toilet humor, you’d better stay away. It’s a joy to watch and will have you both enthralled and disgusted in equal measures. This is definitely Wiig’s time to shine, and I look forward to seeing what she does next. Go see it. * * *
Rise of the Planet of the Apes
Directed by Rupert Wyatt Reboots, re-imaginings, prequels and sequels can sometimes disappoint, but Rise of the Planet of the Apes manages to overcome all expectations and turns out to be a pretty enjoyable romp into a world where apes may one day rule supreme. James Franco plays Will Rodman, a scientist dedicated to curing Alzheimer’s whose tests on chimps prove effective. However, after something goes amiss, Rodman ends up looking after baby chimp Caesar and realizes that his cure may have had unintended effects. Caesar grows up and proves to be more intelligent than most humans around him, but he starts to learn that not everyone is
nice and he has no wish to be a pet. Franco may get top billing, but it is Andy Serkis’s motion-capture performance as Caesar that deserves the most praise. Possibly the most fully realized CGI character to hit our screens, Serkis captures our hearts and delivers an award-worthy performance. Rise of the Planet of the Apes is at times a family drama, a prison thriller and a fullon action film, but it always entertains and heralds what may be an exciting new future for the Planet of the Apes franchise. I certainly came out of the cinema thinking humans are scum and apes rule.
Take Care of My Cat 고양이를 부탁해 Directed by Jeong Jae-eun Made a decade ago, the directorial debut of Jeong Jae-eun focuses on the lives of five young women, one year out of high school and coping with adult life in Incheon. Times are hard and there’s a danger that their friendships may falter due to work commitments, dreams of living in Seoul and other problems. Plus there’s a cat that needs taking care of... The film focuses on three friends in particular and Bae Doona, Lee Yo-won and Ok Ji-young all deliver nuanced, intelligent 42 | 10 Magazine October 2011
performances. The film takes its time and allows us to follow these girls through their daily lives, helping us to understand and appreciate their struggles. The film’s many references to turnof-the-century mobile phone technology does date it slightly, but it doesn’t detract from the quality of this well-made drama. It’s a touching and at times heartbreaking tale of growing up. Take Care of My Cat is worth seeking out, especially if you want to catch a glimpse of Korea that you wouldn’t ordinarily get to see.
NATIONWIDE CALENDAR New This Month October 6th Gigola France. Erotic/
Drama. Lou Doillon, Marie Kremer; dir. Laure Charpentier. October 6th The Debt USA. Drama/
October 6th Apollo 18 USA. Horror/
SF/Thriller. Lloyd Owen, Warren Christie; dir. Gonzalo Lopez-Gallego.
October 13th Biutiful Spain/Mexico.
Drama. Javier Bardem, dir. Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu. October 13th HIT 히트 Korea. Action/
Comedy. Han Jae-seok, Song Young-chang; dir. Lee Sung-han.
Thriller. Helen Mirren, Sam Worthington; dir. John Madden.
Dates are subject to change.
October 20th Senna UK.
Documentary. Ayrton Sena; dir. Asif Kapadia.
‘Where you’re more than just a guest’
October 27th The Tree of Life USA.
Drama. Brad Pitt, Sean Penn; dir. Terrence Malick. October 6th Stone USA. Thriller.
Robert De Niro, Edward Norton; dir. John Curran. October 6th Fighting Spirit 투혼
Korea. Drama. Kim Ju-hyuk, Kim Sun-ah; dir. Kim Sang-jin.
October 12th Real Steel USA. Action/
Drama/SF. Hugh Jackman, Evangeline Lilly; dir. Shawn Levy. October 13th The Three Musketeers
France/USA. Action/Romance. Orlando Bloom, Milla Jovovich; dir. Paul W.S. Anderson.
October 27th La Quotidienne 오늘
Korea. Drama. Song Hye-kyo, Song Chang-ui; dir. Lee Jeong-hyang.
TBA Warrior USA. Action/Drama.
Tom Hardy, Jennifer Morrison; dir. Gavin O’Connor.
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TBA Only You 오직 그대만 Korea.
Drama. So Ji-sup, Han Hyo-ju; dir. Song Il-gon. TBA Mr. Idol Mr. 아이돌 Korea.
Drama. Park Ye-jin, Ji Hyeon-woo; dir. Ra Hee-chan.
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by S oy eo n K im b erly Yoo n
Animal Farm Spurs Interest in Animal Rights and Welfare The SBS show Animal Farm has been attracting attention recently for its contribution to animal protection and animal welfare in Korea.
I had always assumed that animal rights and welfare culture wasn’t well developed in Korea until I found out about the show called Animal Farm (동물농장). The show covers stories about animals living in people’s homes, in zoos, and even abandoned and in serious danger. It recently began to gain more attention from viewers after broadcasting some deeply moving stories. One of the more shocking episodes was “Hwanggu” (황구, yellow dog). In this episode, a stray dog was being mistreated by a man who ran away when Animal Farm staff
caught him in the act. Hwanggu was immediately rushed to the hospital and received major surgery for broken bones around his eyes and jaw. This episode made animal rights advocates furious, and the suspect was put on the wanted list, which was quickly spread through social networking services. Later, Animal Farm aired a follow-up episode on Hwanggu, who was adopted by a caring family and renamed Geukboki (극복이), a cute way of saying “overcomer” in Korean. These emotional episodes about abandoned and abused dogs brought tears
to the eyes of viewers, who have begun to show more interest in animal rights and animal welfare. This reaction first took place on Facebook and Twitter, and soon led to more action and petitions organized by the Korea Animal Rights Advocates (KARA). In addition to serious episodes such as this, Animal Farm also introduces unique pets and shows funny videos about cute animals that bring laughter to living rooms instead of tears. Many celebrities who support animal rights appear on the show to talk about their personal feelings. The show sometimes takes viewers into celebrities’ houses to meet their pets, which adds fun to the show. In each episode, Animal Farm is presented from the perspective of the animal in order to emphasize that they have feelings just as humans do. Whether the topic is a wild animal, endangered species in the wilderness, or a small pet in an ordinary home, the show tries to inspire viewers with tales from the animal world. You can watch the latest episode of Animal Farm Sunday morning at 9:30 on SBS. 10 Magazine October 2011 | 43
Gypsy & The Cat
Toro y Moi
Gypsy & The Cat
Underneath the Pine Carpark Records Toro y Moi (AKA Chazwick Bundick) is a music artist/producer from South Carolina who has garnered considerable acclaim of late for his passionate electro-pop sounds, and his second release, Underneath the Pine, showcases his musical vision most succinctly. The album is a definitive example of the new “chillwave” canon, and throws together that sub-genre’s blending of studio effects, samples, and simple melodic lines into a clean, well-delineated style quite apropos for the current musical clime. Tunes such as “Go With You,” with its distinctly euro-pop feel; “How I Know,” wherein shades of 60s doowop insinuate themselves alongside 80s retro guitar and light Brazilian electronic; and “Still Sounds,” which lays a funky foundation upon which to build a nice melodic vocal, help give this album its fresh vibe. Definitely worth a listen!
Gilgamesh Sony Music Another contemporary ele c t r o - p o p r ele a s e, this time coming from the diverse streams of musical tradition which flow so strongly into the sea that is British Pop. Making this somewhat unusual is the fact that this duo—Xavier Bacash and Lionel Towers— are actually DJs from Melbourne, Australia. They used their extended stay in the UK prior to this CD’s release to craft a softer, lilting pop sound that uses spacey harmonies and understated guitar to evoke aural images of older, lusher stylings a la everyone from Squeeze and Jimmy Sommerville to Todd Rundgren. Perhaps the two finest examples of this are “Jona Vark” (geddit?) and “Parallel Universe,” both of which utilize the duo’s dreamy flourishes most effectively. Another step forward in the contemporary electro-pop soundscape? by M i chael B erry Here’s hoping!
44 | 10 Magazine October 2011
Bling Bling Happy Face Entertainment After their debut early this year, the girls of Dal Shabet are already on their third mini-album, Bling Bling. Or iginally promoted as a “punk rock comeback,” the album’s tracks offer a formulaic spin on Korea’s contemporary pop, mixing electro with a coruscating disco vibe. What the six members lack in charisma, they make up for with infectious quasi-retro throwbacks to rival T-Ara’s own flirtation with the 70s dance craze. “Dream In U” best uses the group’s number dynamics for a chorus of dreamy odes to a first love, while “Moonlight” continues peeling the layers off of first lust. Unfortunately for Dal Shabet, the inability to grasp a novel angle in either image or song leaves Bling Bling as nothing more than a passing set piece of 2011, all the more distressing for its mixed signals of proactive sexuality and bewildered innocence. Without a reason to stand out, the songs remain catchy, but as insubstantial as their lyrical by A n n a O r z el content.
by J o h n M e n si n g
Having a score of years behind myself as an American expat, I tend to forget. Dispatches from the Peninsula: Six Years in Korea (2011, $16.95, e-book $9.95), Chris Tharp’s blogish reminiscences of coming to Korea from America, and observing life here—first, while working at a hagwon; later, while working at a university—helped me to remember. Although much of the book describes his life in Korea, and why he thought things worked here the way they do, he also includes interludes during his return trips home, and chronicles the deaths of his parents and other personal travails. That part of the book worked best for me. I appreciated the warm, personal glimpses into his family life and got to see how the culture in the U.S. has changed since I left. Many expats remain attached to their home culture, and when they contextualize their Korean experiences, it says more about where they come from than where they are.
The foreignness of Korean culture compels our consciousness to familiarize our surroundings, to imagine a geography that will allow us to navigate. Whether it is “accurate” or not isn’t the point. As a foreigner, with so many fundamental cultural differences, one is indeed standing on a “groundless ground,” as Heidegger would say, when one steps onto Korean soil. Tharp’s 346 pages are a sort of carpet over the emptiness, providing enough history and cultural anecdotes to allow for a more pleasant stroll through Korea. The Devil’s Hummingbird (2011, W9,000, 156 pages), part of a projected series of novels collectively entitled the Meeting the Devil series, was the other effort to cross
our transom this month. The author, Benjamin Chavez Valencia, is self-published, and it shows. Riddled with grammatical errors, awkward phraseology, and unpoetic idiosyncrasies, the book is useful as a compendium of unliterary devices. Reading The Devil’s Hummingbird, I came to realize how important it is to have the different clauses of a sentence, and the different sentences of a paragraph, echo each other with stylistic symmetry. There is always a great deal to be learned from reading bad writing. Despite its disjointed style, the story is not without its charms, as it details a Hispanic-American returning home from a stint in the navy, touring topless bars, falling in love, and making a go of it. Like Dispatches, this title was instructive for me about life in the U.S. Interspersed with the mundane plot are a series of metaphysical chapters in the genre of fantasy literature, something I’m not well-versed in enough to judge. Reading these parts brought to mind the film Gentlemen Broncos, a black comedy about authors of fantasy worlds.
by S ta f f o r d L u ms d e n
Apple-Friendly Stores Cater to Growing Mac Market
Emergency 119 Police 112 Directory Assistance 114 Medical Information Center 1339 This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.
Citibank citibank.co.kr Deutsche Bank Bank of America Bank of China BNP Paribas bnpparibas.co.kr HSBC
02-3455-2114 02-724-4500 02-2202-4500 02-399-0368 02-317-1700 02-311-0060
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Investment Assistance KOTRA kotra.or.kr Invest Korea investkorea.org
The popularity of the iPod and other Apple products has made it easier for Korean residents to join “The Cult of Mac.” Once a mere novelty in South Korea, Apple is starting to make in-roads in the Korean market thanks to the so-called “halo effect” brought about by Koreans’ love for both the iPhone and iPad. Users of Apple’s laptops and desktops, however, will still find it difficult to do many of the things they take for granted in Windows. Very few (if any) Korean government websites are designed to work in anything but Internet Explorer on Windows, and only one bank (Korea Exchange Bank) offers its internet banking service on Apple’s OS X operating system. Thankfully, there are options for running Windows on a Mac, despite cries of heresy by members of “The Cult of Mac.” Apple’s built-in solution, Bootcamp, allows users to choose which operating system to start every time they turn on their machine. Apple provides all the drivers on their system installation disc, so Windows runs very well on the Mac. Alternatively, users can run “Windows-in-a-window” using virtualization software like Parallels (US $79.99) or a free version called VirtualBox. Bootcamp tends to work a little bit better, while virtualization can consume a lot of processor resources because it essentially means you are running two operating systems at the same time. So where can you get a Mac in Korea? Koreans’ growing interest in Apple products has given rise to a number of resellers. The very first and, for a long time, the only place to get a Mac in Korea was the A# (A-sharp) store in COEX. But nowadays there are more options. Alife (alifekorea.com) has stores in Jung-gu and near Seolleung Station in Gangnam, while Frisbee ( frisbeekorea.com), perhaps the largest reseller in Korea of Mac products, has five stores in Seoul (including the country’s largest Apple-related store in Myeongdong), three stores in Busan, and one outlet each in Bundang and Daejeon. Frisbee is perhaps the closest Korea has to a true Apple store, with employees dressed in blue t-shirts like Apple’s “geniuses” and iMacs, Macbooks and iPods on display for customers to use. The company also offers an English-language reservation service through which a Frisbee employee meets with a customer to answer questions about new products. And finally, the latest entrant to the expanding Mac market in Korea is Willy’s (willys.kr). With stores in Jamsil, Jongno, and near Ewha Women’s University, Willy’s covers most of Seoul and has a similar aesthetic to that found at Frisbee.
Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114
Major Foreign Banks American Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718
Villa Orchid Bali Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Koreaonly low rates. villaorchidbali.com email: firstname.lastname@example.org 010-7307-6555
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Display this coupon with your order of any entrée and receive one of the items shown above for free (W44,000 value). 10 Magazine October 2011 | 45
A Cut Above Your Standard Euro-Bistro Words
C urtis F ile
and shots by
J eemi N am
Well-executed dishes, succulent daily specials, and a minimalist modern atmosphere set this bistro apart from its many competitors.
he words “gourmet” and “fine-dining” in Korea might have skeptics raising an inquisitive eyebrow. The ever-growing popularity of international cuisine has led to some false advertising and it can be hard to find the real gems. But the Euro-Italian Bistro Tin, though removed from typical hotspots like Sinsa-dong and Itaewon, is stepping up to the challenge. Hidden away in Yeongdeungpo-dong (which might be its biggest downside), this young restaurant has all the potential to make a name 46 | 10 Magazine October 2011
for itself in Korea’s fine dining scene. A first glance at the menu may have you dismissing the place as just another typical restaurant in the ever-growing fad of Euro-bistros that are popping up everywhere in Seoul. What it lacks in ingenuity, however, it more than makes up for in execution. The black rice mushroom risotto is a cut above the typical cream soup-risotto hybrid that seems to be the standard for this style of restaurant. Truff le oil underscores the rich, earthy f lavors of the mushrooms and the rice is cooked al dente, creating the perfect blend of textures. At just W14,000, it definitely ranks among the top choices on the menu. Don’t let money deter you though: some of the pricier options are the most f lavorful. Inf luenced by the owner’s experience with English pub grub, the bistro’s version of fish and chips are arguably some of the best in Seoul. The real surprises come from their daily specials though. On offer for this visit was cold avocado soup. Unfortunately, this smooth, chilled bit of heaven hasn’t made it onto the main menu. The dish exemplified the chef’s ability to make simple, clean food that tastes delicious, and it was a refreshing note to end an already great meal. For a restaurant fighting to make a name in the Euro-Italian scene, atmosphere is just as important as execution. The Bistro Tin’s minimalist approach manages not to come off as too pretentious and maintains a modern atmosphere without losing any of the intimacy of the traditional bistro style. So if you’re looking to try out a new area of Seoul or just want a more upscale dinner, this little bistro is a great choice. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.
English menu Designated area Few vegetarian options Not completely accessible Reservations accepted Well-executed classics with great specials A little inconveniently located W7,000 – W45,000 02-3667-0252 email@example.com 1F TCC Center, 93-1 Dangsan-dong 4-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul 11:30 am – 11 pm (closed Sunday)
Huge Tracts of Naan Korean travel writer Lee Ji-sang showed me this little gem in Hongdae. Shanti specializes in Tibetan cuisine with some IndoPakistani favorites. Three things make this nice little restaurant stand out: the price, the flavor and the naan. Shanti is a great value for what you get, and the dishes all taste distinctive with the use of toasted whole spices. At many Indian restaurants in Seoul, I suspect they make their money from naan because you barely get any and need to order more. Shanti’s naan is humongoid. It spills so far over the plate that two plates could easily accommodate it. Hongdae Station (line 2, ex. 8). Go right, turn right at Family Mart, turn left at 7-Eleven. 02-6052-3989 Wor d s a n d shot by Joe McPherson
Dongdaemun’s Uzbek Hideaway Out exit 8 at Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station (lines 2, 4, & 5), and down the alley on your left hand side is a non-descript but tasty Uzbek restaurant called Tabassum (таъассум). On my visit, I started with the somsa, a savory pastry stuffed with minced lamb and potato. Next was the pelmeni, a dumpling dish again f illed with lamb. The dumplings were a bit over-boiled, but the butter, cream, and dill they were swimming in made up for that. Don’t miss the qozon kabob, a slowcooked, perfectly spiced lamb chop ser ved fallapart-tender in a bath of butter. It’s as delicious as it sounds. 02-2273-8777 Wor d s a n d shot S by Aust i n Farwell
An experience to remember... Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-790-7977 Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468
Business Hours : 11:30am - 10:30pm
10 Magazine October 2011 | 47
SEOUL CALENDAR a r t r ev i ew
Art Picks for the Month E x h i b i t s F eat u r i n g I n t e r n at i o n a l A r t i s t s
A multi-location exhibition to be hosted by the Arko Art Center (arko.or.kr), SOMA Museum of Art (somamuseum. or.kr), and the National Museum of Contemporary Art (moca.go.kr), Annoyance is running from September 30th to November 20th. This exhibition focuses on the stresses and aggravations inflicted on people in modern urban societies and explores factors such as monitoring, control and sociopolitical tension. Several internationally renowned artists have been chosen to exhibit their works. Note that the exhibit name may vary from gallery to gallery. Kukje Gallery (kukjegallery.com) is hosting an exhibition by world-renowned artist Jenny Holzer until October 16th. Holzer’s works range from displays of electronic announcements to violent texts embedded in sculptures, which cause t he v iewer to re - evalu ate these common items and look at them through fresh eyes. The display at Kukje Gallery features two large-scale electronic signs with footstools and a selection of pigment prints showing work from her past projects. For me rly k now n a s t he R o d i n G a l l e r y, P l a t e a u ( plateau.or.kr) is featuring the exhibition My Way by Jean-Michel Othoniel. This displays new pieces of work being show n to the public for the first time. Othoniel’s works convey emotional suffering and require the viewers’ knowledge of these sufferings to na r r ate a my t holog ical wo r l d l o n g n e g l e c t e d b y Jean-Michel Othoniel, Lacan’s Knot, 2009 contemporary art history. E x h i b i t i o n s by M em b e r s of t h e I n t e r n at i o n a l A r t i s t s C omm u n i t y
The Korea IAC (koreaiac.com) is a network of international and Korean artists who work as a base for connecting artists, sharing resources and experiences and putting on individual and group shows. So far the IAC has put on several exhibitions throughout Korea, and this month will see two solo exhibitions by members Jang OuiLoung and Richard J. Beaumont running back to back at Gallery Annabini, north of Gyeongbokgung Palace. September 30th – October 6th Jang OuiLoung (장의령): Find the Hidden Picture Writing Opening party Friday, September 30th, 6 – 9 pm. October 7th – 13th Richard J. Beaumont: Birthday Suits Opening Party Friday, October 7th, 6 – 9 pm. Gallery Annabini. 918 Jeongneung-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul. 070-4229-3092 firstname.lastname@example.org
48 | 10 Magazine October 2011
Wor d s by M arty n T hom p son
Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum. net/hopemarket 1330 October 22nd - 28th Seoul S/S Fashion Week Taking place each March and October, Seoul Fashion Week is a chance for style-conscious Seoulites to get a sneak peek at next year’s haute couture, along with taking in fashion shows, fairs, and other events. This fall’s shows include sets with Doii Paris, Hexa by Kuho, Park Yoon Soo, and Caruso. SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition & Convention) near Hagyeoul Station (line 3). seoulfashionweek.org 02-3670-4548
Kumho Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3. ex. 1). Closed Mon. Tue - Sun 10 am - 6 pm. kumhomuseum.com 02-720-5114 Through October 16th Inbetween Displaying works by Japanese artist Takashi Kuribayashi. Beyond Museum in Cheongdam-dong. 10 am - 8 pm. W6,000 - W10,000. beyondmuseum.com 02-577-6688 October 1st - 15th 5th Mulle International Arts Festival 2011 Held at Mulle Art Factory & Alternative Space Moon near Mulle Stn. (line 2. ex. 7). Indoor performances W5,000, outdoor performances free. miaf.co.kr 02-3667-9171
Theater & Dance Ongoing Figaro, the Barber of Seville: Opera/ Musical Presented by OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of featuring theatre actors and actresses in operatic roles. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064
Ongoing Chinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It was during these periods that craftsmanship flourished the most in China. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & Holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114
Through October 1st Cosi: The Play The Probationary Theatre Company presents two-act play Cosi, a comedy by award-winning Australian playwright Louis Nowra. White Box Theatre in Seoul, near Hyochang Park Station (line 6, exit 2). Fri 9 pm, Sat 5 & 8 pm, Sun 4 pm. W15,000. www. probationarytheatrecompany.com email@example.com
Traditional Crafts Connecting Past and Future You can take a look at Korea’s traditional crafts while also learning how they were made. Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation near Seolleung Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. chf.or.kr 02-3011-2176
Through October 16th New Space, Search for the New Stage Follow changes in set design and stage production at the National Theatre from the 1950s to the present. The Performing Arts Museum of Korea. Tue - Sat 10 am - 7:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.ntok.go.kr 02-2280-5802
Through September 30th Yonhap Int’l Press Photo Awards In this competition organized by Yonhap News (Korea’s wire service), staff and freelance photojournalists submitted their best shots. Photos are divided into three themes: Common Prosperity of Humanity, Enhancement of International Peace, and Environmental Protection. Old Seoul Station Museum. 11 am – 8 pm. Free. Closed Monday. yippa.net 02-481-4650 Through October 2nd Another Summer: Perspectives of Birth and Extinction Summers come one after the other. This exhibition encourages you to think about such life cycles. Six artists will take you on a journey through the perspectives of birth and extinction. Sungkok Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 7). 10 am - 6 pm. W3,000. sungkokmuseum.com 02-737-7650 Through October 3rd 2002 World Cup Special Exhibition If you’re a big Korean soccer fan, the 2002 World Cup is the one event that you cannot forget. The Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Exhibition Hall presents the greatest memories of the tournament through photos and memorabilia. Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Exhibition Hall. seouldesign.or.kr 02-2266-7077 Through October 8th ASEAN-Korea Contemporary Media Art Exhibition “Cross Scape” 27 enthusiastic photographers from 10 ASEAN countries and Korea take a closer look at contemporary Asian cultures.
Through October 30th All That Jazz, Love in New York: The Musical SH Art Hall at Daehakro. In Korean. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 3 pm. W45,000 - W55,000. sharthall.com 02-3141-3025 The World Festival of National Theaters Some of Korea’s finest theatre troupes, as well as acclaimed troupes from Indonesia, China, Czech Republic, Bulgaria, France, and Belgium will be in attendance. Held at the National Theater of Korea. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4114 September 29th - October 16th Seoul International Dance Festival Featuring dance troupes from Germany, France, Italy, and other countries. Performances will be held at the Seoul Arts Center, Hoam Art Hall, Sogang Univ. Mary Hall and other venues. W20,000 - W40,000. sidance.org 02-3216-1185 September 30th - October 1st Akram Khan Company: Vertical Road Bangladeshi-British dancer Akram Khan has an extensive background in classical Indian kathak and contemporary dance forms. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. lgart.com 02-2005-0114 October 1st Dream Garden Festival The final performance in the Dream Garden Festival series will see Nam Gyeong-yun on the outdoor stage at Dream Forest. 7 pm. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401
e di t or’ s p ick s
PUB & RESTAURANT Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub!
September 28th – October 31st
Dance & Theatre
“Innovative” and “internationally inf luential” are some of the words used to describe the annual Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF). Now in its 11th year, SPAF continues to grow into one of the best performing arts festivals in Asia. With 37 programs across a variety of arts disciplines and presented in four different venues, including a site-specific piece in Seoul Station, this festival is one not to be missed. Highlights of this year’s events include the already sold out I Am Seagull by Armenian company Yenevan State Youth Theatre (return tickets available on the day) as well as the world premiere and SPAF co-production of Nocturne–a visually stunning multidisciplinary piece exploring the themes of darkness and silence of night. An ever-growing international festival, SPAF breathes life into Asia’s contemporary arts scene. spaf.or.kr 02-3668-0100 Wor ds by Salema K ha n u m October 7th - 8th Gang Hye-Ryeon Dance Project: Swept Away Gang Hye-Ryeon uses elements including sound, light, colors, space, and shape to depict time that slips through our fingers just when we want to seize it the most. Through this work, you can see how her Ryu series has developed over the past twelve years. Mary Hall, Sogang Univ. near Sinchon Stn. (line 2. ex. 6) and Daeheung Stn. (line 6. ex. 1). Fri 8 pm, Sat 5 pm. W20,000 - 40,000. 02-3216-1185 October 10th - 14th Performing Arts Market in Seoul This yearly conference promotes creativity and production in the performing arts. Visitors can attend showcase performances, networking programs, and seminars. The National Theater of Korea near Dongguk Univ. Stn. (line 3. ex. 6). 1-day ticket W30,000, 5-day tickets W100,000. pams.or.kr October 21st - 30th Shakespeare’s Gore and Madness Experience the bloodiest moments ever scripted by the English language’s most famous playwright. Produced by the Seoul Shakespeare Company. facebook.com/seoulshakespeare
Concerts Ongoing 1,000 Won Happiness Enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000. Sign
Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.
Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers
이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.
up between the 5th and 7th of each month to win a seat. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr/happy1000 1544-1887 Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 10/1 & 10/15. 4 pm. W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 02-1577-4579 October 1st Bobby Kim in Concert Hip hop artist Bobby Kim and his group Buga Kingz are holding a concert to celebrate the release of their new album. Olympic Hall in Olympic Park. 7 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 1644-4575 Yaya in Concert This new band won 1st prize on the EBS show “Hello, Rookie” and performed at Jisan Valley Rock Festival this year. Muse Live Olympic Hall at Olympic Park. 6 pm. W20,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3142-2981 SeoulSonic Friends The members of Galaxy Express are holding a concert with Crying Nut, Line Number 3 Butterfly, and Yellow Monsters. Also the famous Canadian band Inward Eye will be performing. KT&G Sangsang Art Hall. 7 pm. W25,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3446-1014
10 Magazine October 2011 | 49
Seoul Performing Arts Festival
* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!
Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials
Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak.
SEOUL October 2nd Kings of Convenience & Wouter Hamel Concert European artists Kings of Convenience and Wouter Hamel are having a concert with Korean singersongwriters. Yonsei University Nocheon Theather. 6 pm. W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-563-0595
October 7th Bossa Nova with Naomi and Goro Popular Japanese bossa nova duo Naomi and Goro are holding a concert in Korea for only the second time. Yonsei University 100th Anniversary Memorial Hall. 8 pm. W30,000 - W70,000. ticket. interpark.com 02-2658-3246
October 3rd Carnival of Bass The Korea Contrabass Orchestra will be presenting Salles’ Carmen, Dvorak’s Largo from Symphony No. 9, Grieg’s Peer Gynt Suite, and other pieces. 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.co.kr 02-744-8060
Unsuk Chin’s Ars Nova Series III Fairy Tales The Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing with conductor Ilan Volkov and soprano Helena Juntunen. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-3700-6300
October 4th - 5th Korea International Music Festival with Tenor Park Jong-ho The Gangnam Symphony Orchestra and the Chuncheon Metropolitan Choir, along with conductor Seong Gi-seon and tenor Park Jong-ho, will be performing new compositions as well as old classics by Schubert, Bizet, and Verdi. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W50,000 - W130,000. sac.or.kr 02-744-8060
Westlife Gravity Concert Westlife is Ireland’s answer to the boy band phenomenon that swept the world in the 90s. Hwajung Stadium at Korea University. 7 pm. W88,000 - 110,000. ticket.auction.co.kr 02-597-2556
October 6th - 7th Baekdusan Concert: I Am the Legend Baekdusan, one of the three most famous rock bands back in the 80s, is regarded as a legend of the genre. See whether they deserve the high acclaim. AX-Korea. 8 pm. W66,000 - W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 October 6th - 9th Jeong Jae-hyeong in Concert: Le Petit Piano A graduate of Hanyang University, this pianist debuted his first official album Looking for Myself in 1995. Ewha Woman’s University. 10/6-10/7: 8 pm, 10/8-10/9: 6 pm. W77,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
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October 8th - 9th Indie Station 284 Featuring indie bands The Freaks, Huckleberry Finn, and Crying Nut at Culture Station Seoul 284 (formerly Seoul Station). 5 pm. W10,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3407-3505 Richard Yongjae O’Neill “Prayer” Concert Featuring the Wurtemberg Chamber Orchestra. Seoul Arts Center. 10/8: 8 pm, 10/9: 2 pm. W40,000 W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-741-1763 October 9th Unplugged Essay Yiruma on the piano, Nomura Sojiro on the ocarina, and Norihiro Tsuru on the violin. Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall. 8 pm. W50,000 - W120,000. ticket.interpark.com October 11th The 35th Anniversary Concert of Cho Trio Featuring pieces by Beethoven, Mendelssohn, and
Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the background for some awesome break dance routines. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. This show returns to the stage on October 7th. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233 Bibap Bibap depicts one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap. It was favorably received at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2010. Cecil Theater near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3) and Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. ceciltheater.com 02-766-0815 Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their powerful performance. Myungbo Art Hall in Jung-gu. Tue - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489 Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959 Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995 Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 - 8 pm, 8:50 - 9:50 pm. Sun 8 pm - 9 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr 02-2266-9101 Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000
The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & 2nd & 16th. 70 min. W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063 Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. miso. chongdong.com 02-751-1500 Music Theater Company Gong A modern take on the traditional music and dance of the Joseon Dynasty. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555
Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W50,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 25. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm. Weekends and holidays at 4 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000. ghmarthall.com 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 02-3676-7616 Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700
e di t or’ s pick
KAP “Dare to Care” Benefit Concert
Korea Against Poverty (KAP), a charity drive initiated by Stefan Lotz and Colin Owen Griffin, will host a benefit concert in aid of the poor in Africa on the 15th of October at Platoon Kunsthalle. The event promises to be a kaleidoscope of music, art and performance as it will not only feature some of Seoul’s best live bands but also artists making art on stage, performances by b-boy squads, DJ sessions and other acts. Hit the Nine, On Sparrow Hill, Blue Biscuit Blues Band and Magna Fall, as well as acoustic artists Nonolina, Dirty 30’s and Josh Shell are just some of the musicians that have volunteered their time. Admission is W15,000 (W10,000 for the first 150). All proceeds will be donated to poverty programs in Africa through Good Neighbors and Global Civic Preservation. Visit KAP to learn more and pre-purchase your tickets on Facebook at KAP Korea Against Poverty or at www.kapcollective.org.
Yongsan Fall Fun Festival October 8th
Family & Community
Last month the US Yongsan Garrison held its first annual RockFest, featuring some of the expat community’s finest bands, and this month it will celebrate the onset of autumn with a more family-oriented festival. With events scheduled from 10 am to 8 pm, families can spend nearly the whole day on base. In addition to a parade lasting from 10 am to noon, guests can enjoy a pet show, magic show, scavenger hunt, banana bouncers, and other live entertainment. When little stomachs start g rowli ng, head to the food vendors for some on-site goodies. Events will be held near Collier Field House, Williams Ave and Soccer Field #12, accessible to the public through Gate 13. Everyone is welcome to come, but you will need to bring a valid form of identification such as national ID card, ARC, or passport (limited to citizens of USA-friendly countries). 0505-738-5419 10 Magazine October 2011 | 51
SEOUL CALENDAR L i v e M u sic
Apollo 18 Shoot for the Moon Quick music quiz: how many Korean
hard rock bands can say they have played at the South by Southwest underground music
festival, toured around the US, and attended music festivals all over Asia, including Japan’s famous Fuji Rock Festival—and all this in just one summer? Only one: Apollo 18.
Formed over three years ago, Apollo 18 combines Hyunseok Choi (guitarist/vocalist), Daeinn Kim (bassist/vocalist), and Sangyun Lee (drummer). The Korean hard rock trio has a unique sound that sets them above the rest. They mix up hardcore bass lines and heavy metal drumming with ambient trippy guitar riffs. The band doesn’t focus on their lyrics, instead depending on their instrumental abilities and distinctive sound. The trio is a tightly knit group of brothers rather than friends. This makes for a good combination when they get on stage. Their kinetic energy shines through and whips the crowd into a frenzy. Don’t expect to shoe gaze at one of their furiously energetic shows. Though Apollo 18’s audience is primarily Korean, it’s no surprise that their fan base is growing among foreigners with the band’s appearances at festivals such as SXSW in Austin and Fuji Rock. Currently signed to Japanese record label, Zankyo, they will be releasing a new EP, Gogol Sound, this fall to add to the three albums already under their belt. To see them perform this month, head to FF in Hongdae on October 7th. apollo18.co.kr, myspace.com/apollo18official Wor ds a n d shots by A lyssa Perry 52 | 10 Magazine October 2011
Schumann. Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall. 8 pm. W20,000 - W70,000. sac.or.kr 02-701-4879 October 12th - 13th Lee Byeong-woo Guitar Concert Lee Byeong-woo is famous for his music in Korean blockbuster films such as King and the Clown, The Host, and others. Check out one of Korea’s most outstanding guitarists at the LG Art Center. 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-582-4098
SAC 11 AM Concert The Gangnam Symphony Orchestra will be performing classic songs from TV shows and movies including The Truman Show and Runaway Bride. Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall. 11 am. W15,000 W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Smells Like Teen Spirit Once every two weeks, new band Yangwhajin will rock you at Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex 6). 8 pm. 9/14 & 9/28. W25,000. cafe.daum.net/ROLLING 02-326-1505
October 29th 5th lml Metal Fest Check out Korea’s metal scene this Halloween. Club Spot in Hongdae. W60,000. leeyuing@gmail. com 010-9182-0749
Film Through October 2nd Korean Film Continuity Special Exhibition Considered “the invisible art,” continuity is an important part of filmmaking and an essential tool for communication. Korean Film Archive. Tue - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, weekends 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2001
Family & Community Ongoing Dialogue in the Dark Experience the life of the visually impaired as you take a tour through darkness with your blind guide. Vertigo Tower in Sinchon. Weekdays 12 – 8:30 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 W30,000. dialogueinthedark.co.kr 02-313-9977
Yanni The Olympic Gymnastics Stadium may not be quite on par with the Acropolis in Athens, but there’s little doubt that New Age legend Yanni will put on quite a show. 8 pm. W99,000 - W270,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
Lunchtime Cultural Performances Twice a week every Tuesday and Thursday through October, 30-minute performances are held at 12:20 pm at the permanent outdoor stage at Global Street Plaza in Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu (located behind City Hall near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 02-2075-4135
October 15th Max Tundra Live in Concert Indie organizers Super Color Super bring English EDM artist Max Tundra to Korean audiences. Theater Zero in Seoul. 10 pm. W15,000 advance, W20,000 door. supercolorsuper.com
Royal Horse Guard Parade A royal horse guard parade will depart from Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate every Tuesday through late October. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min. Free. deoksugung.go.kr 02-771-9951
October 16th Isao Sasaki in Concert Japanese seiyu (voice actor) Isao Sasaki is best known for his roles in anime series Legend of the Galactic Heroes and Space Battleship Yamato. Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall. 2 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-2658-3526
Saturday Cultural Plaza Every Saturday at 2 pm, the Cultural Plaza at the National Theatre of Korea features free performances, open markets, and more. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 5:30 pm. Free. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4288
Stryper Live in Korea A Christian glam metal band straight from Orange County, California. V-Hall in Hongdae. 7 - 10 pm. W67,000 in advance, W75,000 at door. metalcd.co.kr, Facebook: Stryper Live in Korea
October 8th Seoul Int’l Fireworks Festival This yearly event lights up the night sky with three consecutive displays by professional teams from Japan, Portugal, and Korea. You’ll want to arrive at the Han River Park in Yeouido extra early to ensure a good seat on the grass. Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 3 or 4). 02-120
October 22nd - 23rd
Return to Forever 4 with Chick Corea Return to Forever is a fusion jazz ensemble led by 16-time Grammy winning pianist Chick Corea and made up of guitarist Frank Gambale, bass guitarist Stanley Clarke, violinist Jean-Luc Ponty, and drummer Lenny White. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. 88,000 - W220,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-6292-9370
lineup features some of Korea’s top indie, rock, and alternative acts, including 10cm, Deli Spice, Lee Jeok, Ja Woo Rim, and Guckkasten. Seoul Olympic Park. 1 day: W77,000, 2 days: W121,000. grandmintfestival.com 1544-6399
Wax Museum 70 hyper-realistic wax figures are exhibited in the 1652 m2 hall. 63 Building on Yeouido. 10 am - 10 pm. W14,000. 63waxmuseum.com 02-789-5663
Education & Conferences
Ja Woo Rim
Grand Mint Festival If you’re too mature to rock out at Pentaport but still want to spend a day at a music festival, this mellow event may be for you. The
Ongoing Beginner’s Photography Class Korea’s only photo class taught by a real photographer and English native speaker. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (group discount available). facebook.com/ photoseoul firstname.lastname@example.org 0109609-9965 “Garuya Garuya” Kids’ Flour Workshop Because we’d all rather have
10 Magazine October 2011 | 53
SEOUL CALENDAR our kids outside of the house when they’re playing with flour. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium. Weekdays 1 pm - 4 pm, weekends 10:20 am - 4:20 pm. (Sat 4:55 pm). Adult 17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289 Insect & Reptile Exhibition Who doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them? Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019
Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829 Through November 30th Learn Korean Traditional Crafts Each Friday, foreigners are invited to attend classes on aspects of traditional Korean culture such as hanji (Korean paper), hanbok (Korean clothing), folklore and dance. Please call before you go as the class may be canceled if not enough people sign up. The National Folk Museum. 10 am - 12 pm. W5,000 - W10,000. email@example.com 02-3704-3104 September 28th - 30th Bio Korea This conference is not about biographies, but bio-technology. COEX near Samsung Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). One-day pass is W88,000. biokorea.org 02-3432-4557 October 4th YEOL Walking Lecture Join Chung Hyung-min, professor of art history at Seoul National University, for a lecture on Daedongyeojido. This map, first published in 1864, represents the pinnacle of cartography in the Joseon Dynasty. Kyujanggak Institute for Korean Studies at Seoul National University. 10:30 am 12:30 pm. W10,000. RSVP by September 30th. firstname.lastname@example.org 02-736-5868
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October 10th RASKB Lecture: Constructing Gender in Korean Pansori Dr. Heather Willoughby, who received her M.A. and Ph.D. in Ethnomusicology from Columbia University, will be contrasting the various ways in which gender is constructed in traditional East Asian art forms. The focus of this lecture will be on Pansori. Somerset Palace near Anguk Station (line 3). 7:30 pm. W5,000 for nonmembers. raskb.com October 15th - 16th KOTESOL Int’l Conference KOTESOL, Korea’s largest organization for English teaching professionals, will be hosting its 19th international conference with the theme of “Pushing our Paradigms; Connecting with Culture.” Sookmyung Women’s University, near the subway station of the same name on line 4. kotesol.org October 16th The Heroes Journey Fantasy Festival Join an event celebrating fantasy and the heroes journey including an art showing, live music, films, face painting, jewelry making, a puppet show and a costume contest. Prizes will be given for the best costumes. Myeongdong Gallery. Near Myeongdong station exit 9 and above Insomnia. 1 - 9 pm. Contact Wilfred Lee at firstname.lastname@example.org. October 22nd - 23rd Comic World Event Up for some cosplay or have some fan art inspired by
your favorite anime to show off? This is the place. aT Center in Gangnam. Sat 10:30 am, Sun 10 am - 5:30 pm. W4,000. atcenter.co.kr 02-3142-2137 October 25th RASKB Lecture: Girls’ Generation? Gender, (Dis)Empowerment and K-pop Does Korea’s girl group fever bleed into a shift in society? Professor Stephen Epstein analyzes this phenomenon that has not only swept the nation but other countries as well. 2nd floor, Residents’ Lounge at Somerset Palace. 7:30 pm. W5,000 non-members, free for members. raskb.com
Sport & Fitness October 22nd Seoul History Walking Festival The course starts from Independence Park, moves on to Seodaemun Prison History Hall and Ansan Bongsudae, continues to Baekam Mineral Spring, and then makes a complete circle back to the starting point. seoulwalking.or.kr. Sign up now. email@example.com 02-522-5448 Dozens of basketball games are scheduled for this month. Men’s basketball games are listed on kbl.or.kr and women’s games at wkbl.or.kr (websites are in Korean). K-League Football 16th Seongnam vs Gwangwon Tancheon Sports Complex, 3 pm 23nd Seoul vs Sungnam Seoul World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 30th Sungnam vs Pohang Tancheon Sports Complex, 3 pm KBO Baseball Doosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium 1st - 3rd vs LG Twins 5 pm LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium 4th - 6th vs Samgsung Lions 6:30 pm Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium 1st - 2nd vs Hanhwa Eagles 5 pm 5th - 6th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm October 8th - 23rd Grand Rugby Fever at Grand Hyatt Seoul Grand Hyatt Seoul presents “Grand Rugby Fever,” offering rugby enthusiasts the chance to enjoy live broadcast matches of rugby games, along with drinks and snacks, in a stadium-style atmosphere. “Grand Rugby Fever” will be held through October 23rd at JJ Mahoney’s. W40,000 includes three drinks and one snack. grandhyattseoul.co.kr 02-799-8403 October 9th Hi Seoul Marathon 10k, half, and full, to depart from Seoul Plaza near City Hall Station (lines 1 & 2) at 8 am. W30,000. Sign up now. hiseoulmarathon.com 02-338-1038 October 29rd Four River Project Commemorating Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from Yeouido Han River Park event square at 9 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Sign by September 27th. tourmarathon.com/main.html 02-1644-4219 November 13th Seoul Sports Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full, to depart from Sangam World Cup Park at 9 am. W25,000 - W40,000. Sign up by October 14th. marathon. sportsseoul.com 031-791-9792 November 20th Songijung Maraton 5k, 10k, half, 32k, and full marathon, to depart from Jamsil Main Stadium at 9 am. W25,000. Sign up now. sonkijung.co.kr 02-723-1666
e di t or’ s pick
Stand Up Comedy with Kyle Kinane October 7th – 8th Nightlife
Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm. W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr firstname.lastname@example.org Korean Cooking Classes and Tours Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English and explore some of Seoul’s more exciting culinary districts with O’ngo Food. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607 October 7th - 8th Yangnyeongsi Herbal Medicine Festival Held since 1995, this is the city’s largest Oriental medicine festival. Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herbal Medicine Market. seoulya.com 02-969-4793
Nightlife Ongoing Open Mic Night at Ireland Yuki Come enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday at Open at Bar Ireland Yuki. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Bar Ireland Yuki in Itaewon (right next to Kraze Burger) near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). email@example.com Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st
Fresh! New Taste! Taco / Burrito / Fajita / Quesadilla Enchiladas / Margarita & Beer
place. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, firstname.lastname@example.org Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). email@example.com October 8th Global Gathering Korea This global festival franchise unites hundreds of thousands of attendees through their love of electronic dance music. This year in Seoul, festival goers can see Groove Armada, Digitalism, Example, Yolanda Be Cool, and others. Nanji Han River Park. W110,000. globalgatheringkorea.co.kr 02-323-2838 October 28th Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. As before, it’s held the final Friday of each month. Entrance to M2, Via, DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. theclubday.co.kr
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www.ontheborder.co.kr blog.naver.com/4ontheborder 10 Magazine October 2011 | 55
Big comics performing in Korea happens, well, almost never. But on October 7th and 8th, that’s exactly what is going down. Stand Up Seoul presents comedian Kyle K inane, possibly the biggest comic to ever hit the stage in Korea. Kyle Kinane is one of the fastest rising comics in North America with his comedy album Death of the Party ranked as the top comedy album of 2010. He has appeared on Conan O’Brien and Last Call with Carson Daly. He is one of Patton Oswalt’s regular openers, and has even had a half hour special on Comedy Central Presents. The show will also feature two of Stand up Seoul’s finest local comedians. Roofer’s Bar in Itaewon. 10 pm. W30,000 includes a drink, plus the rooftop after party. firstname.lastname@example.org 010-8893-8764
SEOUL DIRECTORY Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878 Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972
Medical Services Foreigner Assistance
ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5 Relocation
fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470 JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771 Insurance
Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Law Firm
A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512
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KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria 02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard 02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894
WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575 Korean Tours
Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536 Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch raskb.com 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337 Museums
Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466 World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200 War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139 Classes
Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or firstname.lastname@example.org Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea. co.kr 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. email@example.com Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021 International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. firstname.lastname@example.org 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about. html, email@example.com Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes firstname.lastname@example.org 019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722 Community
Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. email@example.com 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication
and leadership skills. koreatraining@ yahoo.com 010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ hotmail.com 010-8688-9810
Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659
FRESHLY GROUND BEEF
EST. 1984 Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some damn good ones. est1894.com 02-792-1894 The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station. 02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900
Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540
FUSION RESTAURANT TEL: 02.749.0508
Noksapyeong Station Exit 2
American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656
Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891
The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033
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High Street Market (2nd floor)
HIGH STREET MARKET
IP Boutique Hotel
Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2
Cheil Building 제일기획
Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot
Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right
Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr www.twiter.com/highstreetseoul 58 | 10 Magazine October 2011
La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon 02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.kr Sinchon: 02-324-0682 COEX: 02-565-0682 Times Square: 02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836 Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs
Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld. com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner
parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763
TWO GREAT LOCATIONS
B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733
P IZ ZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007
w w w. be e ro c l o ck .c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. firstname.lastname@example.org 02-749-0903
B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164
Advertise in our Directory! It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU! email@example.com or 02-3447-1610
BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572
Canadian Pub & Restaurant
The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALES Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232 Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659
Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776
Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125
Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191
Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164
Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday
• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch
www.rockymountaintavern.com 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857 Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl. webs.com 010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412
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Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971
Burgers & Bar 3F
Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115 Pulse Itaewon This chilled-out club pumps out danceable tunes in all genres of electronic music until sunrise. Everyday 8 pm – 7 am. Fri W10,000, Sat W15,000. 02-792-6662 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635 Live Music
• NFL Games LIVE! @ 2 am Sunday Nights! • 2 Beer Pong Tables! • Best Nachos in Korea!
Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490
Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA sportscaster, games are always on including NFL games, LIVE on Sunday nights starting at 2 am. 02-333-1604 Clubs
Club Hamilton Hotel Fire Station
n Stat Itaewo
LO C AT I O N S
Itaewon Jukjeon Busan Jeju
Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s Garden Gecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974 Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069 Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845
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60 | 10 Magazine October May 20112011
[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333
America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311
Woori Bank Teheranno
Hyundai Department Store
LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.
Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472
Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/ SoundHolic 02-3142-4233
Beauty Cr a ftwor com ksTaph ouse.
Trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK
English service available
Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm. 2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698 Massage
Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090 Religious
Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177
Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158
All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.
Become a model and get a FREE make over. Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pm Appointment only Tel. 02-512-3798~9
Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773 Cafes
Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888 Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680 Gourmet Foods
High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong,
Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center firstname.lastname@example.org Catholic Bomun 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church 02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at email@example.com Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran 02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship krcf.weebly.com Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church 02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284
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10 Magazine October 2011 | 61
GYEONGGI CALENDAR folklore festival held every 4 years that showcases representative intangible cultural heritages from member countries of the CIOFF. Exhibitions include displays of traditional clothes, musical instruments, foods, and folk crafts from around the world. Anseongmatchum Land in Anseong. Adults W5,000, minors W4,000. 2012folkloriada.com 031-1330
So Music + Wine Festival October 8th – 9th
[Continued from p. 41] This event makes up for the fact that most music fests omit wine in favor of low-brow forms of booze by offering 100 kinds of wine. The varieties for sale include wines from France, Chile, Spain, the United States, South Africa, and New Zealand. The groups booked for the event are not the standard K-pop groups on the radio: instead, the line-up features creative, melodic groups that will put you in an autumn mood. Friday’s line-up includes Jang Hae-jin, a contestant on the show I’m a Singer, and New Age pianist Yiruma. Saturday, “RockJazz” pianist Eric Lewis, who has performed with Josh Groban and Wynton Marsalis, is the performer of note. See the website for the full lineup. The festival is held at the special stage at the Paju English Village, located across from the picturesque Heyri Art Village. You can reach the site by buses 200 and 2200 from Hapjeong Station (line 6, ex. 2) in Seoul. A 1-day pass is W44,000, and a 2-day pass is W66,000. Tickets include one free glass of wine (minors are provided a soft drink). 1779 Beopheung-ri, Tanhyeon-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do. somusicwine.com 1544-1681 Wor ds by Dav i d Carruth
Design & Fashion Through December 31st Good Ads and Best Ads: New York One Show Awards Meet selected works from the internationally renowned One Show Award 2010 - 2011, in collaboration with the One Club, New York. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan, near Gongdan Stn. (line 4). 10 am – 7 pm. Free. gma.or.kr 031-481-7007
Art Through October 16th French Art Today: Winners of the Marcel Duchamp Prize French contemporary art is the focus of this exhibit, which features more than 90 works by the 16 winners and nominees of the Marcel Duchamp Prize. National Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwacheon near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 9 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000. moca.go.kr/engN 02-2188-6124 Korean Spirit: Six Photographers What lies behind the Korean Wave? Six photographers reveal the results of their research into this question. Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). Closed Mon. Tues - Thurs & Sun 10 am - 6 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am - 8 pm. W3,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-0180 Through October 23rd Gwangju Imperial China Festival A chance to experience various ceramic masterpieces of the Joseon Dynasty, a period famous for its exquisite pottery. Gyeonggi Ceramic Museum in Gwangju. 9 am - 6 pm. Free. tour.gjcity.go.kr 031-760-2104 Through November 20th The Heart of Phoenix: Art and Culture
62 | 10 Magazine October 2011
of Sharjah Organized to publicize new cultural trends in the Middle East, this exhibition features Sharjah, the cultural capital of the UAE. The exhibit includes 55 old maps, 30 pieces of traditional Arab calligraphy, 15 ceremonial jewels, and more. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan, near Gongdan St. (line 4). 10 am – 7 pm. Free. gma.or.kr 031-481-7007 Through November 22nd Gyeonggi World Pottery Biennale: Journey Through Fire Check out a wide range of pottery-themed exhibitions, performances, and more. Events are held at Cerapia in Icheon, Gonjiam Pottery Park in Gwangju, and Ceramic World in Yeoju. Adults W8,000, teens W6,000, children W4,000. One ticket gets you into all three locations. kocef.org 031-631-6501
Theater & Dance Through December 24th 2011 Vision: Our Dance Watch Korean dancers demonstrate their repertoire of traditional pieces. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 5 pm. 90 min. W5,000 - W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3313 October 1st - 5th The 16th Incheon Int’l Clown Mime Festival International mime performers are once again gathering in Incheon to show off their skills. Shows held in three different venues: Little Theater Dolche, Incheon Dohobu Government Building, and the Memorial Hall for the Incheon Landing. W10,000 - W20,000. All-inone package W50,000. clownmime.com 032-772-7361 October 1st - 9th CIOFF World Folkloriada Anseong Pre-Festival An international
November 26th 2011 CBS Love Sharing Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full, to depart from Hanam City Misari Rowing Site at 9 am. W10,000 - W35,000. Register by November 10th. run1080.com/main.htm 042-638-1080
Concerts October 1st - 3rd Jarasum Int’l Jazz Festival Since 2004, Jarasum Jazz Festival has grown from a small local festival to an internationally recognized event that is a yearly highlight for jazz connoisseurs. This year, the line-up features 50 bands and artists including Dhafer Youssef, Poncho Sanchez, Bae Jang-eun, and Tower of Power. The festival takes place at Jara Island in Gapyeong. 1-day pass W35,000, 2-day pass W55,000, 3-day pass W70,000. On site tickets: W40,000. jarasumjazz.com 1577-2365 October 14th Yuhki Kuramoto: In A Beautiful Season The program consists some of this Japanese artist’s best songs, such “Shape of Love,” “Second Romance,” “Promenade,” and “In a Beautiful Season.” Uijeongbu Arts Center. 8 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. uac.or.kr 031-828-5841 October 28th Irina Silivanova and Maxim Puryzhinskiy Piano Duo Concert Yongin Women’s Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000. art.yonginsi.net 031-324-8994
Family & Community Through November 30th Dongchun Circus See what 87 years in the Korean circus industry have taught the Dongchun Circus. Banga Meori Park on Daebu Island, west of Ansan. Adults W13,000, children W7,000. circus.co.kr 02-452-3112 Through October 31st Everland Horror Night and Happy Halloween Most people head to Everland for the thrilling rides, but this Halloween, the theme park is offering some seasonal scares as well. Located in Yongin. everland.com 031-320-5000 October 7th - 10th Guri Cosmos Festival Enjoy endless fields filled with beautiful cosmos, one of the flowers of fall. Guri Han River Civic Park. guri.go.kr 031-550-2065 October 8th - 9th Korea Makgeolli Festival Ilsan Munwha Gwangjang (Culture Park) near Jeongbalsan Stn. (line 3, ex. 1 & 2). 11 am - 5:30 pm. takjoo.co.kr 031-967-3131
Sport & Fitness October 20th - 23rd World Bike Show 2011 Open to the public from the 21st to 23rd. KINTEX Hall 1 & 2 near Daehwa St. (line 3, ex. 2 ). 10 am - 6 pm. Business & conference day W10,000, public day W3,000. worldbikeshow.com 031-810-8114 K-League Football 3rd Suwon vs Seoul Suwon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 16th Incheon vs Seoul Incheon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 16th Suwon vs Jeonbuk Suwon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 30th Incheon vs Sangju Incheon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 30th Suwon vs Jeju Suwon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm
gyeongGI province Religious Services
Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums
Central America Culture Center Goyang latina.or.kr 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province) visagej.org 031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051 Transportation
International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio
US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Restaurants
Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526 La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771 Bars/Lounges/Pubs
The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, email@example.com Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group 032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am. club.cyworld.com/westisland 031-917-2225 Clubs
Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm. bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409
GANGWON CALENDAR Fashion September 28th - October 2nd
in Yangyang. Namdaecheon Event Hall. song-i. yangyang.go.kr 033-670-2724 September 30th - October 3rd Jumunjin Squid Festival Jumunjin on the east coast is one of the most important squid fishing areas in the country. Jumunjin Port. jumunjinevent.com 033-662-4532 October 1st - 3rd Hoengseong Korean Beef Festival Hoengseong is one of the best places to enjoy Korean beef. Festival events are held at Chukhyeop Street in Hoengseonggun. hshanu.or.kr 033-340-2223
Wonju Hanji Festival Take a gander at artwork made of hanji (traditional Korean paper) and learn how to make it yourself. Gangwon Hanji Theme Park in Wonju. W30,000 - 80,000. wjhanji.co.kr/festival 033-766-1367
October 21st - 31st Gangneung Coffee Festival Over 100 coffee shops are said to be found on a single street in Gangneung. Head to the festival to find out if the organizers really know how to count. coffeefestival.net 033-647-6802
Performances September 30th – October 3rd Jeongseon Arirang Festival Since way back in 1976, Jeongseon-gun has been holding a festival celebrating Jeongseon Arirang, the folk song which is Gangwon Province’s #1 intangible cultural property. Held around the 5-day marketplace in Jeongseon-eup. arirangfestival.kr 033-563-2646
gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations
Low Stakes and No Booze Dis cov er y
Family & Community October 1st - 3rd Kim Satgat Cultural Festival Various events including concerts and art exhibits dedicated to late Joseon wandering poetry Kim Byeong-yeon (also known as Kim Satgat because of the satgat, or conical bambbo hat, that he wore). Kim Satgat Memorial Hall in Yeongwol-gun. yw.go.kr 033-370-2226 October 7th - 9th Rose of Sharon Cultural Festival This festival honors the spirit of patriot Nam Gung-eok, who played a big role in the mugunghwa (무궁화, Rose of Sharon) becoming the natural flower of Korea. Located in Hongcheon-gun. great.go.kr 033-435-4350
Sport & Fitness K-League Football 1st Gangwon vs Chunnam Chuncheon Sports Complex, 7 pm 23nd Gangwon vs Daegu Gangneung Sports Complex, 3 pm October 29th - 30th Wonju Two-Days Walk 5k, 10k, 20k, 30k, and 50k, to depart from the Tattoo Stadium in Wonju. 40,000 walkers will be present, including 1,000 from abroad. W5,000 for adults, W3,000 for minors. Sign up by October 27th. koreawalk.kr 033-762-2234
Dine & Drink September 29th - October 3rd Yangyang Song-i Festival The rare song-i mushroom has a distinctive taste that bring people from around the world to the banks of the Namdaecheon stream
Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454
Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng
Libraries Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755
Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078
Restaurants Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999
You can bet on a pretty boring time at this Gangwon Province casino. I’d always felt the reason that Korean casinos are dull is the lack of Koreans. With this in mind, a buddy and I headed off to Kangwon Land, the only domestic casino that allows locals to try their luck. After the long bus ride, we signed up for membership cards. It was nearly as difficult as getting an iPhone on an E2 visa. Entering the casino required showing our cards, tickets, passports, and passing through a metal detector. I’m not sure what the purpose was: everyone in line set it off and everyone was waved through. We wanted a drink, so we went to the Casino “Bar.” Turns out, it offered free self-serve soft drinks and nothing else. There wasn’t alcohol of any kind. Not for free. Not for pay. Around 30 people surrounded every table game. All games had hilariously low stakes. We played roulette, and every spot on the board was covered in chips seven times over. There were some guys at our table that bet on every number each spin. I soon realized “casino sober” is even worse than “noraebang sober.” Without booze, the roulette table was every bit as reserved as those in Seoul casinos. Really, roulette is a horrible game, and it’s only fun when one can put $20 on a number and ridiculously fall into $700, or at the very least lose your money and order another drink. So we returned to Seoul. Five minutes after arriving, we were at the COEX Casino. I ate for free, tossed back a few G&Ts, and recouped my losses. I love to travel, but sometimes the best place to go is home. Unless you want to gamble with a Korean friend or happen to be on a Gangwon-do ski trip, you may want to avoid Kangwon Land too. Getting There
If you’re really set on visting Kangwon Land Casino, take a train to Sabuk Station or a bus to the Gohan-Sabuk Bus Terminal. 265 High1gil, Sabuk-eup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon Province. Wor ds by Todd Bru ns kangwonland.high1.com 1588-7789 10 Magazine October 2011 | 63
October 1st - 3rd Playground Music and Camping Festival Can’t decide whether to go camping or go to a concert? This festival may be the answer you were looking for. Bring a tent, cook your own food, and enjoy some talented bands at Jungdo island in the Bukhan River, which flows through the middle of Chuncheon. playgroundfestival.co.kr 070-4411-5150
CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Art Through November 6th Gongju International Art Festival Around 500 artists from the US, China, Japan, and other countries will be taking part in the region’s biggest art expo. Limlip Art Musium. limlipmuseum.org 041-856-7749
Chungju Lake and Danyang’s Eight Scenic Wonders
When the pace of big city life is giving you the blues, an escape to Chungju Lake offers a rejuvenating splash of color to recharge your batteries. Situated about two hours south of Seoul, the farmland and valleys stretching between Chungju and Danyang seem to have been specifically designed for those looking to escape the buzz of neon lights and traffic jams. And with Chungju Lake, South Korea’s largest man-made body of water, the area attracts thousands of tourists year round. Chungju is home to a host of different resorts offering spectacular views, hot springs, and when the weather is right, water sports and outdoor activities. Fall is arguably the best time to visit with the World Martial Arts Festival taking place every October, the apple harvest (for which Chungju is famous) and a two-hour ferry ride from Chungju to Danyang that offers breathtaking scenery of Korea’s fall colors. Bring a good camera, as almost every turn is a chance to capture the beauty and history of the place—especially the “Eight Scenic Wonders of Danyang.” Moved by the natural beauty of the region, 16th century scholar Hwang Lee designated eight special areas of Danyang as “scenic wonders.” Each spot has its own piece of history to tell. Dodam Sambong is a set of three peaks located in the Namhan River, said to represent three people involved in a love triangle. Just up the river you will find Seokmun, a giant stone gate where locals believe spirits sang after they passed. A short climb to the top of Seokmun will give you an incredible view of Dodam Sambong and the surrounding area. The six other wonders—Sainam rock (a large cliff), Haseonam (three “brother” cliffs), Jungseonam (home to Ssangyong falls), Gudambong (a turtle-shaped rock), and Oksunbong (“the gateway to Danyang”)—make Chungju a must-see for history buffs and tourists alike. Getting There
Chungju is easily accessible by bus and train from most major Korean cities. From the terminal, a taxi will take you to the Chungju Lake pier in 15 minutes. chungjuho.com Wor ds a n d shots by Cu rtis File
Through December 11th Eternal Dream Exhibit Learn how people lived in China 2,000 years ago through these 100 artifacts from the Han Dynasty. Asia Museum in Daejeon. W6,000 - W10,000. asiamuseum.asia 042-863-0055
October 21st - 30th Geunsam Ginseng Festival They may be bitter, but the twisted roots known as ginseng have some serious health benefits. Located in Geumsan, just south of Daejeon. tour.geumsan.go.kr 041-750-2412 October 19th - 23rd Ganggyeong Fermented Seafood Festival Sound fishy? the shrimp, anchovies, and other fermented goodies found here are great salty treats. Taking place next to the Geum River near the Ganggyeong Intercity Bus Terminal. ggfestival.co.kr 041-730-3349
Performances September 28th - October 3rd Cheonan Heungtaryeong Dance Festival This yearly Cheonan event is vying to become Korea’s hottest dance festival, with folk performances from various countries in genres ranging from bellydance to breakdance. Samgeori Park, Dongnam-gu Office Plaza, and other venues in Cheonan. festival. cheonan.go.kr
Family & Community October 1st - 9th Baekje Cultural Festival Held every October, this festival offers a look back into the long-lost history and culture of Baekje. Takes place in Gongju and Buyeo-gun. baekje.org 041-857-6955 October 5th - 9th
CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon firstname.lastname@example.org
Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978
Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000
Religious Service Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691 Sanseong Church Daejeon email@example.com 042-585-8111
Museums Gyeryong World Military Culture Festival This festival gives you the rare opportunity to directly experience the distinct military cultures of the army, navy and air force. Head to Gyeryong near Daejeon. m-festival.org 042-840-2672
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball 1st Daejeon vs Sungnam Daejeon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm October 16th The 4th Yeongi Battle Marathon 6.8K and half marathon, to depart from Yeongi Daechup Park at 10 am. W10,000 - W12,000. Sign up by October 8th. yeojarae.co.kr 010-8439-8966 October 30th The 13th Gumsan Ginseng Half Marathon 5K, 10K, and half marathon, to depart from Gumsan Sports Complex at 10 am. W20,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 5th. run1080.com 042-638-1080 November 13th The 11th Hongsung Marathon 5K, 10K, and half marathon, to depart from Hongsung Sports Complex at 9:30 am. W20,000 - W35,000. Sign up by October 7th. amarunhs.com 031-554-2195
Dine & Drink Through October 3rd Geumsan World Ginseng Expo International Ginseng Distribution Center in Geumsan-gun. W4,500 in advance, W5,000 at the door. insamexpo.or.kr 041-750-8400
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Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333 Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877
Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000
Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon
Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong 042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117
JEOLLA CALENDAR e di t or’ s pick
October 8th - 9th Gunsan Saemangeum Air Show Enjoy an awesome air show provided by the Korean and US Air Force. Saemangeum area near Gunsan. gsairshow.com 063-450-6598 Seopyonje Boseong Sori Festival The festival consists of an international pansori contest, Korean fusion concert and more. Seopyeonje Sori Center and Boseong Dayang Stadium in Boseonggun. boseong.go.kr 061-850-5203 October 8th - 16th Jeongeup Chrysanthemum Festival Gujeolcho Theme Park near Okjeong Lake. gujulcho.co.kr 063-539-6171
Korea Food Festival October 20th – 24th
October 20th - 24th Suncheon Bay Reeds Festival The festival will start with a tour of the area and wrap up with watching the beautiful sunset. Events held in Suncheon. reeds. sc.go.kr 061-749-4007
Dine & Drink
Where else would the Korea Food Festival be held but Jeonju in Jeolla Province, the area generally regarded as having Korea’s tastiest cuisine? Over the five days of the festival, visitors can take part (and, of course, partake) in a smorgasbord of scrumptious offerings. Start out at the Jeonju Bibimbap Festival to try Jeonju’s most famous dish. Next, head to Han Style to look into the health benefits of Hansik (한식, Korean food). From there it’s on to the Korea Food Plaza to get a taste of market culture. If you’re in a sour mood, you’ll want to spend some time at the Jeonju Int’l Fermented Food Expo (JIFE). And finally wrap up a food-filled day with a drink at the Oktober Makgeolli Fest. For info on free shuttle buses from Seoul to Jeonju, head to english.visitkoreayear.com. koreafoodfestival.or.kr 063-272-6998 Art
Through October 2nd Sweet Sweet Toy Story Children will enjoy this display of crafts and dolls of popular characters and robots. Kids Gallery at Main Building of Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134 Through October 31st Truc Art Special Exhibition If you don’t look closely, these 2D works of art might trick you into thinking they’re 3D. That’s exactly what truc means in French: “trick.” Manseon House at the Yusan Resort in Muju-gun. W12,000. 10 am - 8 pm. trucart.com 1599-0849
Theater & Dance Through November 6th Ariul Arirang: The Musical Every Saturday and Sunday, come to hear the story of a woman and the world’s largest seawall, Ariul. Ariul Art Hall in front of the 33 Center at the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan. 2 pm. 60 min. W3,500 W7,000. ariulart.com 063-280-3150 October 8th The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy The musical The Ballerina who Loved a B-Boy hits Jeolla Province. Jeollabukdo Culture & Education Center. 3 & 6 pm. W33,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
Concerts September 30th - October 4th Jeonju International Sori Festival Sori (소리) means “sound” in Korean, but
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there’s more to it than that. It’s also one of the genres of Korean traditional music (more commonly called pansori (판소리). Head to Jeonju to see performances by some of today’s greatest living pansori artists, as well as musicians from countries around the world. Sori Arts Center and the Jeonju Hanok Village. sorifestival.com 063-232-8398 October 12th Max Tundra Live in Concert Indie organizers Super Color Super bring English EDM artist Max Tundra to Korean audiences. Nevermind in Gwangju. 10 pm. W14,000 advance, W18,000 door. supercolorsuper.com October 29th Cho Yongpil and the Great Birth Concert If you’re hoping to catch Cho Yongpil on his nationwide concert tour, Jinnam Stadium in Yeosu is a good a chance as any. 6:30 pm. W44,000 W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
Family & Community September 30th - October 4th Filial Loyalty of Shimcheong Festival In the pansori (판소리, Korean folk song) of the same name, Shimcheong throws herself into the sea to restore her father’s eyesight. Explore Korean values of past and present at this festival held at the Train Village by the Seomjin River in Gokseong-gun. simcheong.com/festival/ sub01/01 061-363-2011 October 6th - 9th Korean Folk Art Festival Once a competition between rival performers, Korean folk art has now become a more inclusive performance that everybody can enjoy. Gobuksun Park in Yeosu city. kfaf.or.kr 061-690-7201.
October 29th - 30th Jeongeupsa Culture Festival Inspired by an old Korean song dating back to the kingdom of Baekje about a wife waiting for her peddler husband to return. Naejang Mountain Culture Square and Jeongeupsa Park. jchf.or.kr 064-532-8880
Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball KIA Tigers at Gwangju Stadium 4th - 6th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm K-League Football 2nd Gwangju vs Ulsan at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 3rd Jeonbuk vs Sangju at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 16th Chunnam vs Gwangju at Gwangyang Stadium, 3 pm 22nd Jeonbuk vs Daejeon at Jeonju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 23rd Gwangju vs Suwon at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 3 pm 30th Chunnam vs Jeonbuk at Gwangyang Stadium, 3 pm 30th Daejeon vs Gwangju at Daejeon World Cup Stadium, 3 pm November 20th Gochang Dolmen Marathon 5K, 10K, half, and full marathon, to depart from Gochang Public Stadium at 10 am. W5,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 11th. gcrun.com 063-560-2701 November 27th Muju Chunma Marathon 5K, 10K, and half marathon, to depart from Muju Stadium at 10 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Sign up by November 11th. run1080.com 042-638-1080 November 27th The 7th Goheung Space Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon, to depart from Goheung Park Ji-Sung Public Stadium at 10 am. Sign up by October 31st. goheungmarathon.co.kr 061-830-5284
Dine & Drink October 7th - 9th Namdo Food Festival Visit Nagan Cultural Village and taste delicacies from 22 different cities in Korea. Located in Suncheon. namdofood.or.kr 061-749-4456 October 14th - 16th Jindo Blue Crab Festival Takes place at Seomang Fishing Port in Jindo. jindo.go.kr 061-544-2181 October 15th - 19th Gwangju World Kimchi Culture Festival You’re not a true fan of kimchi unless you’ve been to this festival. Jungoe Park in Gwangju. kimchi.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-3641
JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center gic.or.kr 062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog gwangjublog.com Inside Jeonju insidejeonju.com The Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com
Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju andiok.kr 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084
Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 0 61-270-8480 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480
Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000
Radio TBS eFM Gwangju FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5
Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626
Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, firstname.lastname@example.org 061-724-2234
GYEONGSANG calendar Design & Fashion October 12th - 14th Daegu Fashion Fair 200 booths representing 100 firms displaying high fashion, fashion accessories, sports attire, and natural hair coloring. EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). fashiondaegu.com 053-721-7432
Art Through November 30th Dalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that is held every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. english.busan.go.kr 1330 Through December 11th Monet to Warhol Masterpieces on loan from the Saint-Etienne Museum of Modern Art are now being exhibited at Busan City Art Gallery (art.busan.go.kr). Pieces on display include pieces from Andy Warhol, Roy Liechtenstein, and Claude Monet, amongst others. Admission is W11,000 and the gallery is open from 10 am to 8 pm. 모네에서워홀까지.com 051-746-2970 October 3rd – 10th Gaecheon Art Festival Feel the sweep of a thousand years of Korean art at this festival taking place at various sites around Jinju. gaecheonart.com 055-752-0111
Theater & Dance Ongoing Miso II: Shilla, Land of the Gods Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Dynasty, hosts “Miso II: Silla, Land of the Gods,” a non-verbal performance produced by the same creative team that brought us Miso. The show illustrates the thousand-year history of Silla with age-old Korean dance and music. Held at the Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. misoshilla.com 054-740-3800
September 30th – October 9th Andong Int’l Mask Dance Festival Experience the traditional mask dances that were once used in shamanistic rituals at Hahoe Village in Andong. Dance troupes from other countries will also be performing. Free. maskdance.com 054-841-6397 October 28th - 29th Turandot: The Opera Presented by the Gangnam Opera Troupe at the Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. W30,000 W100,000. knopera.co.kr 055-268-7900 October 29th Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre Presented by the Daegu Theatre Troupe at Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. W20,000. daegutheatre.com
Concerts Through October 16th Our Melodies, Our Culture This ongoing event presents a combination of Korean traditional music and various traditional performances. Every Sunday at Mt. Yongdu Park in Busan. 3 pm. Free. bscf.or.kr 051-744-7707
October 2nd – 3rd Lena Park (Park Jeong-hyeon) in Concert As well as being a contestant on “I Am a Singer,” Lena Park was ranked first in a survey as the singer respondents most want to see perform live. Changwon Seongsan Art Hall. sungsanart.or.kr 055-268-7900 October 6th - 9th Ulsan World Music Festival This is an excellent chance to hear a wide variety of world music in Ulsan, a city not normally known for its multiculturalism. cheoyong.or.kr 052-260-7544 October 13th - 14th Max Tundra Live in Concert Indie organizers Super Color Super bring English EDM artist Max Tundra to Korean audiences. 10/13: Urban in Daegu. 10 pm. 10/14: Fabric in Busan. W10,000 advance, W18,000 door. supercolorsuper.com October 15th Asia Song Festival Head to Daegu Stadium for a free show featuring some of Asia’s representative pop artists and groups: Super Junior and Girls’ Generation (Korea), Perfume and Triple A (Japan), Ha Yun-dong (Taiwan), Go Geo-gi (Hong Kong), Ju Pil-chang (China), and Tata Young (Thailand). Daegu Stadium. Download your free tickets from the (very poorly designed) website. asf.or.kr Bobby Kim on Tour: “Soul Together” Changwon Seongsan Art Hall. 3 & 6 pm. W66,000 - W88,000. sungsanart.or.kr 055-268-7900 Lee Seung-Cheol Unplugged Korea’s most popular rock artist Lee Seungcheol will be performing an unplugged live concert at Cheonma Art Center at Yeongnam University in Gyeongsan. 4 & 8 pm. W66,000 - W110,000. ticket. interpark.com 053-810-1526 SG Wanna Be in Concert SG Wanna Be is riding the Korean Wave with more than 300 performances throughout Asia so far. Andong Indoor Gymnasium. 7 pm. W55,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 054-854-7541
September 29th - October 29th Daegu Int’l Opera Festival Daegu is known for its textile factories, beautiful gals, and...opera? See Aida, Dido and Aeneas, Madame Butterfly, and other performances at venues including the Daegu Opera House, Keimyung Art Center, and Suseong Artpia. W10,000 - W70,000. diof.org 053-666-6111
October 1st - 3rd Hallyu Dream Festival The first two days of the festival hold a fan signing with Ryu Si-won, the Rice Cake and Alcohol Feast, and other miscellaneous activities. But the main event is the Hallyu Dream Concert held on Monday (a holiday) from 6:30 - 10 pm, with Girls’ Generation, 2PM, Dongbangsingi, Shinee, Miss A, and more. Gyeongju Indoor Gymnasium and the Gyeongju Citizens’ Stadium. hallyudreamfestival.or.kr 053-950-3333
October 28th Special Music Travel in Changwon Sponsored by Melon Music, this concert series is treating many of Korea’s smaller cities to some of it’s biggest indie bands. In Changwon, you can check out Deli Spice, Galaxy Express, and Jia. 3.15 Art Center in Changwon. 315art.net 055-286-0315 October 29th Boowhal in Concert Legendary rock band Boowhal is starting their nationwide tour just outside of Daegu. Cheonma Art Center at Yeongnam University in Gyeongsan. ticket.interpark.com 053-810-1526 Kim Bum Soo in Concert This Korean pop singer is best known for “I Miss You,” which was on the soundtrack for Korean drama Stairway to Heaven. Dongcheon Gymnasium in Ulsan. ticket. interpark.com 052-294-4120 Yoon Do Hyun Band in Concert Experience the history of Korean rock music with YB at their Jinju concert. Jinju
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GYEONGSANG calendar e di t or’ s pick
Indoor Gymnasium. W66,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 055-749-2426
Film October 6th - 14th Busan Int’l Film Festival Movie buffs in Korea will not want to miss the country’s hottest film festival. For more details, see the Busan article on p. 18. Busan Cinema Center, Centum City, and other venues. biff.kr
Family & Community
The Jinju Lantern Festival The Glow of 50,000 Lanterns October 1st – 12th
Family & Community
“Wow!” was all that we could say. As the sun set behind the fortress walls, the real reason for our journey to Jinju became apparent. One by one, more than 50,000 lanterns started to flicker, casting a glow across the town that would have made Walt Disney tremble with anticipation. As we strolled along the banks of the Nam River, even an approaching storm couldn’t dampen our excitement. From the traditional, to the modern, to the international, the lanterns captivated our attention. “Is that a fire-breathing dragon?” I asked my wife, already knowing the answer, but still feeling the need to ask. “Is that Park Ji-sung?” she responded just as quickly. It was quickly apparent that these kind of questions would be the focus of our conversation that evening. Despite its decidedly modern flair, the Jinju Lantern Festival has its roots in Korean history. Based around Jinju Fortress, the site of a miraculous victory and a disastrous defeat at the hands of the Japanese in the late 16th century, the festival commemorates both events. Believing that floating lanterns down the river would provide peace and prosperity for all of Korea, survivors started a tradition that has been recently revitalized. Even if you have had the privilege of seeing one of the lantern festivals held in Seoul, a trip to Jinju is still well worth your time. With lanterns both in the river and along the banks, musical performances, and the atmosphere of a small-town fair, the Jinju Lantern Festival seems much more intimate than its smaller but more crowded cousins in Seoul. To fully enjoy the event, be sure to arrive several hours before su nset to check out the for tress and the festival grounds. Getting There
The festival is held along the banks of the Nam River in Jinju. Getting there is simple, as buses for Jinju leave from many cities, including Seoul, Busan, Daegu, and Gwangju. From the bus station, it’s a short walk or taxi ride to the festival grounds. yudeung.com 055-761-9111 Wor ds a n d shots by J i m C hen ey
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Ongoing World Confucianism Festival This festival will not only give you a chance to learn about Confucianism but also to experience its forms of artistic expression. Daetagol in Yeongyang-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7181 Through October 10th Gyeongju World Culture Expo Learn about a variety of different cultures at this festival amidst some of Korea’s finest cultural sites, including Bulguk Temple and Seokguram Grotto. Also taking place at the expo will be exciting exhibitions including the dolls of the world and ancient fossils. Gyeongju World Culture Expo Park. cultureexpo.or.kr 054-748-3011
22nd Pohang vs Chunnam Pohang Steelyard, 3 pm 22nd Ulsan vs Busan Ulsan Munsu Stadium, 5 pm 30th Daegu vs Ulsan Daegu Citizen Stadium, 3 pm 30th Gyeongnam vs Seoul Changwon Soccer Center, 3 pm 30th Busan vs Gangwon Busan Asiad, 3 pm KBO Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 4th - 6th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions 3rd vs SK Wyverns 5 pm October 30th Trekking on Mount Sobaek 14k and 23k, to depart from the Jukryeong Expressway Rest Stop at 11 am. W20,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 15th. koreatrail.net 02-424-2195 November 6th Jinhae Marathon: “Running with The Navy” 5K, half, and full marathon to depart from Jinhae Public Stadium at 10 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 4th. jinhaemarathon.co.kr 055-283-0300
October 21st - 29th Busan Int’l Fireworks Festival Fireworks, of course, plus a model pageant, hallyu star concert, and even a fashion show. Check out the full story on p. 19. bff.or.kr
November 13th Angong Nakdong Riverside Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon to depart from Andong Citizen Stadium at 10 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 10th. admarathon.co.kr 054-854-7330
October 15th Choi Hyeon-u Magic Concert: Sherlock Homes Magician Choi Hyeon-u banks on his boyish good lucks as he does his sleight of hand. Help him find the criminal at this show at Changwon MBC Hall. 3 & 6 pm. W44,000 - W55,000. ticket.interpark.com 1566-5490
November 20th Changwon Unification Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart from Changwon Sports Complex at 9 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 20th. tongilmarathon.org 055-282-6258
Education & Conferences Through October 9th Marathon Hero Son Gi-Jeong Exhibition To celebrate the opening of the IAAF World Championships in Daegu, the Daegu National Museum will be exhibiting souvenirs collected by marathoner Son Gi-jung, who was a gold medalist in the 1936 Berlin Olympics. Daegu National Museum. daegu. museum.go.kr 053-768-6051 Through November 6th Tong: Haein Art Project Though most visitors make the trek to Haein Temple to see the famous Tripitaka Koreana (81,258 woodblocks on which are written the Buddhist scriptures), this fall the temple is hosting an exciting contemporary art exhibit. haeinart.org 055-934-3175
Sports & Fitness K-League Football 2nd Daegu vs Incheon Daegu Citizen Stadium, 3 pm 2nd Pohang vs Jeju Pohang Steelyard, 3 pm 2nd Busan vs Gyeongnam Busan Asiad, 7 pm 9th Daegu vs Gwangju Daegu Stadium, 3 pm 16th Busan vs Jeju Busan Asiad, 3 pm 16th Ulsan vs Pohang Ulsan Munsu Stadium, 5 pm 16th Gyeongnam vs Daegu Changwon Soccer Center, 7 pm 22nd Sangju vs Gyeongnam Sangju Citizen Stadium, 3 pm
November 27th Jinju Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon to depart from Jinju Water Museum at 10 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Sign up now. jinma.org 055-747-2134
Dine & Drink October 7th – 12th Yeongju Punggi Insam Festival Insam is said to have many health benefits, and this festival will give you a chance to try it out for yourself. Takes place near the Namwon Stream in Yeongju. ginsengfestival.com 054-636-0021 October 8th – 13th Gyeongju Rice Cake and Liquor Festival This festival, which normally takes place in April, has been rescheduled for October to help you have a more enjoyable autumn. Gyeongju. guide.gyeongju.go.kr 054-779-7290 October 8th – 30th Mungyeong Apple Festival Mungyeong apples are regarded as the best that Korea has to offer. Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park. mgapple.kr 054-550-6887 October 12th - 16th Busan Jagalchi Festival Already an exciting place to visit, Busan’s Jagalchi Seafood Market is even more of a blast when the festival is on. ijagalchi.co.kr 051-243-9363
Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook. Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel 010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am. maktum.co.kr, 051-742-0770
Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com
Radio Stations TBS eFM Busan FM 90.5 American Forces Network Jinhae AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang AM 1512 Waegwan AM 1080 / FM 88.5
Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics. Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan. 051-732-1522
Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com 010-7794-1218
Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel 051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador 053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina 051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530
Advertise in our Directory! email@example.com or 02-3447-1610
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. firstname.lastname@example.org Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. email@example.com 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden. cyworld.com, firstname.lastname@example.org 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)
Live Music Venues
Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670 Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069 Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253 Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050
Busan Club Interplay cafe.daum.net/ interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy cafe.daum.net/clubheavy96 010-2338-1340 Gyeongju Club Metal Boys cafe.daum.net/ metalboys 011-9599-8370
Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Bujeon Church bujeon.org 051-807-3331 Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403 Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191 Podowon Church Busan051-333-3736 Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200 Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445 Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096
Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street. 053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. email@example.com Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625 Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426 Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242 Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadian, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast. 053-255-4048 Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867 Gumi Waegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775
NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. neostarface.com 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am. 051-628-0223
Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. clubthat.co.kr 053-427-7171
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JEJU CALENDAR Art
Shots by Mary Rager (top) and Alpha Newberry (bottom)
DIS C OV ER Y
Fighting with Furey
Through October 16th The Realization of Desire: Exhibit Jeju National Museum is holding an exhibition of ancient earthenware. A variety of works will be exhibited, ranging in form from a horse figurine to a wheel. Jeju National Museum. jeju.museum.go.kr 064-720-8000
October 22nd Youngim Kim’s Pansori Performance Korea’s first gugak musical. Tamra Hall at the Jeju Convention Center. 3 pm, 6:30 pm. 2 hrs. W55,000 - W88,000. ticket. interpark.com 1544-1555
Family & Community October 1st - 3rd Jeju Seogiwipo Chilsimni Festival This provincial festival includes a parade and dance performances, along with singing contests and other events that visitors can take part in. Held near Seogiwipo Port. 70ni.seogwipo.go.kr 064-760-2662
Sport & Fitness K-League Football 22nd Jeju vs Incheon Jeju Sports Complex, 3 pm
Jeju Furey: two words that are well-known on Jeju Island. Almost any Westerner you meet will tell you that they are actively involved in Jeju Furey events. So what exactly is it all about? The Jeju Furey Foundation and its events began in the spring of 2009 when Jeju’s expats lost one of their own, Nathaniel Furey, in what appeared to be a case of encephalitis. The close-knit foreigner community on Jeju immediately began looking for ways to help Nathan’s sons and wife with post-secondary education expenses for the future. Beginning with auctions, donations, and smaller events, Jeju Furey events have boomed into eagerly anticipated and highly attended events. With over W31,000,000 raised so far, the Furey Foundation is now reaching out to help other less-fortunate families on the island. Currently, the Furey Foundation is assisting a 78-year-old local woman who is raising her two grandsons on her own on less than W500,000 a month. Want to help out (while having fun)? The next big event will be the Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball 6 (BVB6) in October. Teams of six (three guys and three gals) will compete against each other in an incredible two-day tournament. The tournament will be held from October 8th to 9th at Iho Beach in Jeju City. Every volleyball tournament is full of sun, wonderful people, and great food with all the proceeds going to charity. Plus there are teams of all skill levels, so it’s okay to sign up even if you’ve never touched a volleyball before. Can’t get your friends to come to the beautiful island of Jeju for a great weekend? That’s okay, too. Sign up on your own, and Dan Nabben, the organizer, will set you up with a team. To find out more information about Jeju Furey BVB6 or to keep posted on other exciting Furey events (including badminton, ultimate Frisbee, boat parties, and bowling) look for “Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball 6” or “Jeju Furey” on Facebook. Wor ds by M ary R ager
Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holiday 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550
JEJU ISLAND Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1
Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555 Ryu “Artcal” Get ready for a creative performance that brings together Korean dance and traditional martial arts for a hybrid of art and musical called an “artcal.” Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College in North Jeju. 2 & 5 pm. 60 min. W20,000 - W30,000. ticket.interpark.com 064-759-1214 October 2nd The Special Music Tour Feature performances by eight artists including Crying Nut, Broccoli You Too and Zia. 6 pm. 120 min. Jeju University Aramusehall. W27,500. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555 October 8th - 9th Ppororo the Superhero: Family Musical Children will enjoy this performance featuring characters from the wildly successful cartoon Ppororo (the Korean equivalent of Spongebob Squarepants). Jeju Art Center. 11 am, 2 pm, 4:30 pm. W25,000 - W40,000. ticket.interpark.com 1611-0915 October 22nd Buhwal Live in Jeju Kim Taewon, leader of Buhwal, is bringing his band and the new stars he discovered on the popular survival show The Great Birth to perform at Jeju Art Center. 4 pm, 8 pm. W66,000-W88,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555
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November 20th 2011 Jeju Tangerine Int’l Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full marathon, to depart from Jeju Sports Complex at 9:30 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Sign up by October 4th. marathon.ihalla.com 064-750-2614
Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266
Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub has opened up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180
NETWORKING CALENDAR E dite d by J i s u n M oo n a n d dav i d carru th
Photography by Dominique Buck at the Beers for Books charity night at Suji’s Restaurant, which was held on the evening of September 15th. Saturday, October 1st OCC Meditation Attend a free OCC meditation session to reduce stress, release muscle tension, and learn from professional instructors. Well-being Studio in Itaewon. 10:30 am - noon. onecirclecommunity.org Saturday, October 1st - Sunday, October 2nd AUSTCHAM AFL/NRL Grand Finals: Festival of the Boot Festival of the Boot Part 1: Saturday at JJ Mahoney’s Gazebo. W50,000 from 11 am - 4 pm. Full BBQ, wine, beer and soft drinks. Festival of the Boot Part 2: Sunday at 3 Alley Pub Porch. Pay-as-you-go. 4 - 6 pm. Snacks provided. austchamkorea.org Thursday, October 6th SIWA Newcomers Meeting 10:30 am at M-Plaza Seoul Global Cultural Center, 5th floor. Free. RSVP to newcomers@ siwapage.com. siwapage.com
Saturday, October 8th KBC Gyeonggi Business and Culture Networking Day Premium networking for CEOs, co-hosted by Gyeonggi Province and GAFIC (Gyeonggi Association of Foreign-Invested Companies). Suwon Hwaseong Museum at Hwaseong Fortress. 5 - 8 pm. W10,000 for early registration. Register at koreabusinesscentral.com.
FKCCI Café du Commerce Indulge in an informal networking event with French atmosphere and French-style buffet along with a selection of French wines. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 - 8:45 pm. W24,000. Visit the website for more details. W26,000. fkcci.com Friday, October 14th AIWC Bollywood Diwali Night Enjoy gourmet Indian cuisine prepared by expert chefs from India and a fun-filled Bollywood evening of music and dance. Grand Ballroom, Millennium Seoul Hilton. 7 pm. W140,000. For tickets and information contact firstname.lastname@example.org. siwapage.com Tuesday, October 18th ANZA Santa Fe Hat Party Paris Bar, Grand Hyatt. Members W25,000, non-members W30,000. 10 am - noon. Early registration required since seating is strictly limited. RSVP to email@example.com. anzakorea.com EUCCK “The Korean Economy: Forecast for 2012” Seminar The European Union Chamber of Commerce in Korea brings together policy makers from prestigious economic research centers as
well as industry experts to share their insights on the current condition of the Korean economy and challenges for the near future. Direct inquiries to Alvar Barra at firstname.lastname@example.org or 02-725-9202. eucck.org
Wednesday, October 19th SIWA Coffee Morning Monthly coffee morning at the Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com Wednesday, October 26th SIWA Working Women Network The last Wednesday of each month. Venue TBA. Contact email@example.com for more details. Tuesday, November 1st ANZA Melbourne Cup Lunch Grand Hyatt. 11:30 am. anzakorea.com More information TBA. Thursday, November 10th AustCham 2011 Year of Friendship Australia Business Awards At this gala dinner, companies will be awarded for their work to strengthen the link between Australia and Korea. Grand Ballroom, Grand Hyatt Seoul. 6:30 pm - 11 pm. RSVP deadline October 10th. austchamkorea.org ANZA
Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AIWC Annapurna Indian Women’s Club AustCham Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea Cancham Canadian Chamber of Commerce EUCCK European Union Chamber of Commerce Korea FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea KBC Korea Business Central OCC Once Circle Community SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association
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Friday, October 7th AustCham Chairman’s Night: KorOZ Super Star! Singers, dancers, musicians, and magicians show off their talents at the SMS Art Centre in Sinsa-dong. 7 - 10 pm. Members W40,000, non-members W45,000. austchamkorea.org
Thursday, October 13th CanCham Fall Networking Party: Canadian Connection CanCham’s annual fall networking party is back! Attend this party and taste some fabulous Canadian beer. Register early for a chance to win a Blackberry Bold 9900. Big Rock in Gangnam. 6:30 pm. W47,000 before 10/7, W55,000 before 10/10 (RSVP deadline). Contact firstname.lastname@example.org. canchamkorea.org
What Goes Around…
Wor ds by Sa m a n t h a Di x- H i ll , I llust r ation by Leroy K uci a
ome of you may have noticed that I spend quite a bit of time complaining about life in Korea. I do try to be subtle, but for those of you who are less astute, let me recap. At the end of last year, I wrote about skiing in Pyeongchang and pointed out the dubious skiing skills of the locals. And on more than one occasion I’ve complained about the parking skills of Seoulites, or rather the lack thereof. I’m not a religious person and don’t believe in any other superstitions either, but I do believe that life has a way of biting you on the bum when you least expect it. Let me explain. A few weeks after that skiing article, I flew to Europe for a couple of weeks of “real” skiing in the Austrian Alps. On the very first run of the very first day I toppled over, somewhat gracefully, and tore every ligament that had ever decided to nest in my knee. I had no one else to blame but myself. I spent the next two weeks alone in my hotel room with a book and my bad disposition for company. Neither were enjoyable. Karma? Methinks. And now it’s happened again. I’m sitting in Germany as I write this and just last week I got shouted out for parking badly. More specifically, a local woman screamed at me until she turned quite purple and specks of spit were flying out of her mouth. Try as I might to explain how desperately sorry I was to have left her no 72 | 10 Magazine October 2011
room for her car, she wasn’t having any of it. Then she called me a “fish eater” (in German) and I wasn’t sure whether it was a compliment or an insult. I’m guessing the latter, as she was still pretty cross at this stage. I have discovered after retelling this story to numerous Germans that Bavarians call people from the North Fische fressers (the aforementioned fish eaters) and can confirm that this is not a compliment. On the other hand, I’m pretty excited that she mistook me for a German and not a foreigner, as this must mean my German is improving. But again, karma? So, to appease the gods of bum-biting I’m now going to say something positive about Korea. In Korea, you can use a debit or credit card to pay for anything. And I love it. Two days ago I tried to use a credit card in a store in Germany and the cashier looked at me like I was handing her a letter bomb. With a sheepish grin I tried again with a cash card and I think I heard her sniff at me. And I tell you what else gives me deep joy when living in Seoul— Sunday shopping. It’s not that I want to shop on Sundays, but I like knowing that I can. I spent my first Sunday wandering around my village trying to buy a croissant for breakfast. I may as well have been looking for a polar bear in Africa. And this might just be the last of my complaining. I’m on my way back to Seoul soon: all is forgiven.