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Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • november 2011 VOL. 4 NO. 2

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

at Korea's 10 Hottest Clubs Plus: • Don't Skip Macau • No Cabbage Kimchi • Seeking Legal Advice • Real Chinese Food • Korea Awaits! Contest Winners Printed using 100% soy ink.

November 2011 vol. 4 No. 2 Nationwide Calendar

4 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

42 Movies Contagion, Hindsight, Killer Elite

6 Contributors 8 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

Killer Elite

9 The Reader’s 10 10 10 Questions Terri Hartman, President of SIWA

43 TV High Kick 3 on MBC

12 History The Han River

44 Music Super Junior, Stereo MCs, Linus Blanket

14 Taste of Korea 7 Kinds of Kimchi

Books A Cautionary Tale

Shot by Dylan Goldby

45 Tech Tokyo Game Show

Regional Calendar 41 Seoul Editor’s Pick Body World Exhibition 46 Seoul Discovery Chinese Food in Daerim

16 In the Kitchen Chef Michael Yantzi at Bao

48 Seoul Restaurant Review 105 S Street Grill

18 Expat Expertise Knowing Your Legal Options

52 Live Music Demian the Band

20 Korean Destination Botanical Gardens 22 Korean Destination Paju Book City 24 10 News Korea Awaits! Video Contest Winners 26 Asian Destination Macau, the One and Only 34 Hotel & Resort News 36 Expat News 38 Gastronomic News 72 A Happy Ending

A Night at the Club 30

Dressed to the nines and down for some dancing? When you’re in the mood to party, you need to know where to go. We give you 10 awesome options for spending a night out.

53 Seoul Editor’s Pick St. Andrew’s Ball 63 Gangwon Discovery Chuncheon Dalk Galbi 64 Chungcheong Discovery Check Out Cheonan 66 Jeolla Discovery Jinan Red Ginseng Spa 68 Gyeongsang Discovery Live Music in Busan





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Earning Longevity


ast month I ran into a long-term resident of Korea at a watering hole I frequent and he regaled me with some of the history of expat publications. Way back when, English/expat magazines were of course photocopied onto a couple sheets of paper, folded together and distributed freely around the base and Itaewon. Then as the budding market of foreigners grew, some tried their hands at printing full-fledged magazines. I still remember having copies of Seoul Classified and K-Scene magazines sitting around my apartment back in the late 90s and 00s. I can’t imagine how they put them together before digital cameras and the ubiquitous Internet, but those magazines were tremendously helpful in keeping us in touch with what was happening in the foreign community back in the dial-up modem days. It was a sad day when they finally decided to close their doors a little over 5 years ago. Nowadays the barriers to entry for a magazine have become minimal in our modern world. With email, file sharing, digital cameras, flickr and Adobe, it’s not hard to design up a magazine and have it printed at your local printers. There are new ventures starting up almost every month it seems, and 10’s success has certainly inspired more and more to throw their hat into the ring and become the “Founder and CEO” of yet another magazine. (I’m convinced that the most common business card job title in Korea is “CEO.”) The good news is, it’s obvious that there will never be a day when magazines targeting expats living in Korea don’t exist. The question is which magazines will grow and develop - and which

ones will go the way of K-Scene. In a world where anyone with a Mac and a printer can start a magazine, what really matters is staying power. Survival is not assured; it is earned. It is earned by busting your hump to avoid making mistakes and by readily admitting to and correcting mistakes when you inevitably do make them. It is earned by coming out every month on time and making sure that you’re delivered to each and every subscriber’s door early so they don’t miss a single thing happening in the upcoming month. It is earned by providing great online content, great emailing services and added value through social media. But most of all a magazine’s longevity is earned by providing your readers with trusted, useful content each and every month that makes a concrete, positive impact on their lives. Since we started 3 years ago, this is what we have sought to do here at 10 Magazine. If, in your opinion, we ever fail to deliver, then my email is Let me know about it and we’ll attempt to correct our mistake. Steph en R ev er e M anag in g E dito r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

별 말씀을 다 하시네요. [Byeol mal-sseum-eul da ha-si-ne-yo.] You’re totally just flattering me. Here’s a little expression I use to leave those who excessively compliment my Korean skills in stitches. Koreans have a tendency to lavish praise on even the most remedial speaker of their language, which can often be very encouraging. They rarely look down on you as a non-Korean for not speaking the language (ironically they are more likely to however if you happen to be foreign-born but of Korean decent), and more often they are likely to praise you for a simple “안녕하세요.” “별” means “special” and “말씀” is the high form of “말,” meaning speech. “다” is like adding “totally” on to it. “하시네요” is the high form of “Wow, you are doing...” as the ending “네요” shows surprise. So to go literally the expression means, “Special speech totally you are doing!” Kind of Yoda-like, isn’t it? I’m convinced Yoda was just supposed to be a futuristic version of an Asian martial arts master, and that’s why he talked like that. But I digress. There’s also a shorter version of this expression. It goes: 별 말씀을요... (Byeol mal-sseum-eul-yo...) You flatter me... Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

4 | 10 Magazine November 2011


Sang-tae Kim Kyoung-hee Lim Dami Kang

General Manager Sales/Promotion

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim Stephen Revere David Carruth

Managing Editor

Curtis File (p. 20, 62, 63) is a curious Canadian with a passion for writing and walking the unbeaten path. As a travel bug content with a life that can fit in two suitcases or less, he packed his bags one year ago and came to Korea. He has been teaching and writing for 10 Magazine ever since.

Assistant Editor

Reyes Galvan (p. 18) is the Manager of Foreign Affairs at Kim & Yun (Law Firm Jungjin). Though his focus is labor law, he has handled a variety of cases from setting up a company, to divorce, to criminal defense. His most recent project is the publicservice Open Door Clinic for people seeking guidance on small civil claims and labor disputes.

Nina Hoffman (p. 30) 25. Australian. Always getting dressed in fits of rage. Unbeatable at the Minecart Madness level in Donkey Kong Country. Never far from a Bloody Mary, she divides her time between teaching 5-year-olds Chromeo songs and studying for her Masters in Communication. She can be found most weekends hanging around Hongdae misquoting hip-hop facts and bitching about Quebec. Violet Kim (p. 22) is a freelance writer and illustrator based in Seoul and Paju. She has been published in literary magazine The Lab and on She enjoys hiking, documentaries, bicycles, fancy breakfasts, and narrating things as they happen. Like many Seoulites, Violet spends far too much money on coffee, but is mostly unrepentant. She can be found online at Jamie Lepore Wright (p. 46) just finished up two years in Korea. When not teaching English, she spent a lot of time visiting temples, hiking mountains, and sampling delicious food around the peninsula. Daerim-dong is one of her favorite neighborhoods in Seoul, not only for the food, but also because she can usually mix Korean and Mandarin without getting funny looks.

Art Director

Contributing Designers

Hugh Lee Dylan Goldby Gregory Etheart, Grace Lee

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contributions Comments Subscriptions


Tara TPS. Co., Ltd


10 s ta f f s p o t l i g h t

Jang Yoo-jung is at times outgoing and at times a little bit shy. She often hangs out with her friends on weekends, as she thinks friends are one of the most important things in her life. She loves to eat delicious food, so you can also find her at gourmet restaurants.

Contribute to 10 Magazine 10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to provide photography and writing and to provide articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at 6 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Contributors Michael Berry, Adam Boothe, Eun-kyu Choi, Curtis File, Reyes Galvan, Nina Hoffman, Cassie Hwang, Louis Jong Hyok, Yoo-jung Jang, Violet Kim, Young-rae Kim, Leroy Kucia, Angela Lee, Grace Lee, Kathy Lim, Stafford Lumsden, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, Kristina Parchomchuk, Alyssa Perry, Mary Rager, Barun Sarkar, Stacey Siebritz, Colin Strand, Martyn Thompson, Sarah Thompson, Jamie Lepore Wright, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine. Please Recycle This Magazine

10 Magazine November 2011, Vol. 4 No. 2 등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184) Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893 Phone 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

DEPARTMENTS Funny Business at 10? I have a question for you. Why does your nightlife editor, Sebastien Rousset, always promote his own parties? He is the events manager at [redacted], so his job is to promote his parties. Now isn’t this BIASED or a conflict of interest? It seems like every week or two he is promoting his parties. I could understand once or twice [if] he promote[s] his own event, but almost every party.....Come on. We expect better journalism. Are you becoming [redacted]? Your readers are not idiots. Why not help/promote other DJs, promoters and clubs than those who he works with?   DJ Kimmy Kim, Seoul We did some research, and in the months of June, July and August, Sebastien wrote about a total of 12 events and 4 of them were from the promoters you mentioned who he is associated with. He has explained his association with them, and he is not an

employee, although he does work with them. One of the reasons he often selects their events is because he wants to emphasize foreign DJs who are visiting Korea because of their uniqueness and world-wide appeal, and [redacted] are one of only a handful of organizers bringing such DJs to Korea. However, you’re certainly right that domestic talent should be encouraged and promoted as well, and we’ll work on doing just that with future articles in the magazine and on the website. Thanks for the helpful (although unnecessarily indignant) feedback!  10

Magazine to Magazine I didn’t k now about your magazine before, but last month’s cover story was really memorable. I also wrote an article last year about foreign business people here in Korea and interviewed a Japanese bakery owner located in Suseomun named Pangya. Nice article.  Han Jeong-yeon, Fortune Korea

Korea by the Numbers


Samsung Town at Seocho-dong, Seoul

Consecutive years that Samsung Electronics has been chosen by college students as the most desirable company to be hired at after graduation. 8.4% selected Samsung, with KB (Kookmin Bank) following at 6.2% and Korean Air at 6.1%. (This survey was first conducted 8 years ago.) Source:,


Estimated average annual salary for a new employee at Samsung Electronics (not including bonus).


Average annual salary for a new employee at Korean SMEs (not to mention staying late, working on weekends, and no benefits).

44.0% 53.3%

Employees who told pollsters they quit their job because they were dissatisfied with their salary. Employees who told their company they were quitting because the work was not suited for them. Only 33.3% told their company that they were dissatisfied with their salary. Source: Korea Recruit

One Year of 10 Magazine Delivered to Your Door for Only W54,000. Subscribe today!, 02-3447-1610 8 | 10 Magazine November 2011


Blog of the Month


You’ve got to give the man credit for picking a memorable blog name. “Roboseyo” is a combination of Canadian blogger Rob Ouwehand’s first name and the Korean phrase “Yoboseyo” (여보세요, used to answer the phone). Rob’s blog is an entertaining mixture of lighthearted posts, both humorous and helpful, and longer essays and rants. In the first category are regular notices about things of interest to the expat community. Rob recently posted something about the Andong Mask Dance Festival (featuring some of his own video footage) and then followed that with another post about how to enjoy festivals here. He also has an impressive list of online resources for expats in Korea, accessible by clicking on the “expat life” link on his website. But it is Rob’s longer, analytical pieces that really draw the hits—and the controversy. To see a good selection of Rob’s sometimes opinionated but always impassioned writings about the experience of expats in Korea, click on the “Best of Blogoseyo” on the main page. From Koreans who are overly concerned with their country’s reputation to expats who never seem to stop complaining, Rob deals with issues that affect all long-term residents. He keeps the tone from getting too dark with a sprinkling of humorous images and appropriate background music (via embedded YouTube videos). Starting with our December issue, Rob will be writing our blog of the month column. As he’s one of the most active and longest-running bloggers in the K-blog scene, we’re excited to see what recommendations he will have for our readers.


Readers Have Their Say in the Korea Awaits Video Contest


he 2nd annual Korea Awaits Video Contest is over, the awards ceremony has been held, and the winners have received their prizes. You can read about all of those details on p. 24. But there’s one thing that isn’t announced there, or anywhere else for that matter. Our contest began with our readers choosing the top ten videos, which we then passed along to the judges for the final ranking. How did online voters rank the videos—the people’s choice, so to speak? And which video would have been the big winner had we ended the contest right there? Interestingly, though only two of the videos received exactly the same ranking in both the readers’ and judges’ opinions (Kyle Cawthon’s and Jason and Emily Morrow’s), overall the results were pretty similar. In fact, the same videos fall into the first five and the second five in both lists. But readers and judges definitely differed on the top two videos. For the people’s choice, Kyla Christie’s slick production and Mike Durkee’s over-the-top costume design were the deciding factors.

Online Rankings 10 “Timelapse Korea” by Jason Teale 9 “Top 10” by Leo Fuchigami 8 “Korea: Small Country, Big Things to Do” by Kyle Cawthon 7 “The Korean Time Machine” by Alex Sigrist 6 “Come Visit Me” by Jason and Emily Morrow 5 “Two Koreas” by John Weeke 4 “2 Minutes in Korea” by Fabien Tran Minh 3 “Korea: Your New Favorite Thing” by John Finity 2 “Korea, I Wanna See Ya” by Mike Durkee

1 “Virtual Korea” by Kyla Christie

For next month, we’re going to be running a poll that gets to the heart of something that most short-term tourists to Seoul must ask themselves. That is, what exactly is there to do here? What are the must-see attractions if you’ve only got a day in the city?

What Are the Top 10 Things to Do in Seoul in 24 Hours? Visit our open thread, available on through November 2nd, and let us know what sites we should include in the poll. The poll itself will be up on the site from November 3rd through 15th, so be sure to cast your vote then. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 9

10 Qu estions


aking the move to a foreign country is difficult enough, but imagine having to give up a satisfying career and adjust to an empty nest at the same time. This was the situation that American Terri Hartman faced when she came to Korea a few years ago. However, soon after arriving she got involved with the Seoul International Women’s Association and has found volunteering at the organization a valuable way to spend her time. After Terri became the president of SIWA this July, 10 met up with her to hear about her experiences and her plans for the future.

Terri Hartman President of the Seoul International Women’s Association E dited by Dav i d Ca r r u t h , S H ot by Dy l a n G o l d by

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1. What brought you to Korea? My husband, Bruce Goldberg, had spent his entire career in the Philadelphia office of PricewaterhouseCoopers (an accounting firm), and we jumped at the opportunity for him to come here and work at Samil PricewaterhouseCoopers. He had travelled to Korea on business a few times and really enjoyed it. Korea is our first overseas assignment, although living abroad was something we always wanted to do. 2. What are some of the enjoyable aspects of life in Korea for you? As one of my friends here said, “If you are bored in Korea, it’s your own fault.” There is always so much to do. I love how it’s perfectly OK to sit in a restaurant for a couple of hours and no one tries to kick you out. The weather here provides quite a variety, shall we say, for everything from swimming and hiking to pursuing indoor activities like restaurants and clubs. I really feel safe here, and with public transportation so cheap it is so easy to go places. Also, through organizations like SIWA I have had the opportunity to make friends with so many types of people. I love hanging out with people from all over the world, and also having friends young enough to be my child and old enough to be my mother. 3. What about the more challenging aspects? The hardest part about living in Korea is missing my extended family. I was fortunate enough to live near many of my relatives. Most weekends we spent getting together with everybody for big family dinners and cookouts, so sometimes I find myself a little homesick. I have lear ned to read Korean, but mastering the language has been tough for me. Since so m a ny sig n s a r e i n Eng l ish a nd so m a ny Koreans are willing to speak English to me,

I feel li ke I’m get ting away with not becoming a bet ter Korean speaker. 4. Before coming to Korea, what sort of work did you do? I spent over 25 years in human resources, designing compensation plans, bonus programs, and being in charge of salary increases and executive pay. Ironically, I was in charge of the expatriate program in my last position. The timing of our coming here created a “perfect storm” of life changes for me—within a year, I moved here, stopped working, and became an “empty nester.” It was a great opportunity to learn more about myself and about a part of the world I had only visited before. 5. You recently became the president of SIWA. Can you tell us a little about the organization? SIWA has three purposes—to provide an opportunity for foreigners to meet and get to know each other, to help them experience Korea and Korean culture, and to raise money for Korean charities. I think SIWA is a little different from other expat organizations. About 30% of our members are Korean, so it provides a great way to get to know Korean women who have an interest in getting to know women from around the world. We also offer about 8 to 10 tours in and around Seoul every month and classes in everything from Korean cooking to Zumba. Anyone interested should check out our website at 6. How did you first get involved with SIWA? When I first got to Seoul, I went to a newcomers’ meeting, which I heard about from 10 Magazine. It was a great way to get an overview of Seoul and meet other expats, and I met other women who were new here and in the same situation. Some of the women I met that day have become my closest friends here. I joined SIWA that day. 7. As president of SIWA, what are some of your responsibilities? My first responsibility is to represent SIWA and get the word out on all the things that we do. I also keep in touch with and update our corporate sponsors. Sometimes, I work with the Seoul city government and Korean culture and tourism organizations, finding better ways to serve the expatriate community. 8. What are some of the goals you hope to reach during your tenure as president? The year 2012 is a special year for SIWA—it will be our 50th anniversary. We are planning lots of special events throughout 2012, like art shows of our members’ works, to highlight what we have accomplished and where we are going in the future. 9. Coming up on the 15th of this month is the SIWA Bazaar. What is the purpose of this event? The SIWA and Diplomatic Community Bazaar is our primary fundraiser for the year. We have raised over two billion won for Korean charities over the past 32 years, and we hope to raise at least 200 million this year. Many organizations, like orphanages, nursing homes, schools and shelters, have benefited from our event, and they have come to rely on SIWA even for basics like fuel and food. 10. What can visitors look forward to seeing, tasting, and buying at the bazaar? Since our bazaar is held in conjunction with the diplomatic community, you can shop around the world on November 15th. Food and craft items from your favorite country that are not normally available in Korea can be bought there. About 20 of our charities also have booths, with many homemade goods and craft items for sale. We also feature a Lucky Draw and Dream Lottery, so you can take a chance to win some valuable prizes, like plane tickets and hotel stays. It’s a great place to do your holiday shopping. Come hungry, too, as many of the countries prepare food onsite, so if you are craving a taste of home, the bazaar is the place. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 11

Risks and Rewards on the Han River As the primary way of accessing Seoul during the early modern period, the Han River offered equal shares of opportunities and hazards.


uring the late Joseon period, the Han River did not divide Seoul—in fact it wasn’t even part of Seoul. Seoul in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was confined to the area within the city walls, basically the present downtown area centered on city hall and the palaces. The Han River did, however, serve as the primary transportation route for goods and passengers passing through Seoul. Junks (and later small steamboats) plied the river, transporting passengers to and from Seoul to Chemulpo (modern-day Incheon). Up until the mid 1880s, Chinese junks sailed from Shanghai to the river port facilities at Yongsan where large crowds of coolies congregated in hopes of obtaining temporary employment. As with any port, crime was a constant problem. Not only were there theft and extortion rackets but there were also many murders. Gangs of bandits often preyed upon the weak or incapacitated (and often the drunk). Mainly these were fellow Koreans but there were many Chinese and Japanese who lost their lives in the hours of darkness. Bandits were not the only threat to river travelers. The Han River was notorious for its shifting sandbars and treacherous currents. Rather than trying to travel at night and risk grounding

Right: Boatmen on the Han River have disembarked from their junk and are relaxing on the shore. Next page top: Riverside suburb of Seoul, possibly Mapo, in 1884. Bottom: Mapo Port in 1900.

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on one of the sandbars or worse, junks often anchored near the shore, which left them vulnerable to the bandits. Compounding nature’s threats was the propensity of the Korean riverboat captain to overload his boat. As Horace Underwood tells us, “An immense amount of brushwood is consumed as fuel in the city of Seoul and boats bringing this on the river in the fall have on either side a built out framework approximately equal to the beam of the boat, thus enabling them to carry three times the normal deckload of this light but bulky freight.” The Han River had several ferry crossings, with some of the most important landings at Hangang, Mapo, Yanghwa and Mapo. These ferries were of crude construction but able to carry vast loads and were, at least in the beginning, free for Koreans. Westerners, however, were charged a minimal fee of two cents for themselves and their ponies. One early Western visitor described his first encounter at the ferry landing thus: “Arrived at the river, we found a large ferryboat all ready to receive us. It already contained some two dozen Coreans, mostly with heavy packs on their backs, and a fine large bull; but we managed to find space for our three ponies, our mafoos [horse

Words BY Robert Neff Photos courtesy of the Robert Neff collection

handlers] and ourselves, and the whole miscellaneous cargo was yulched [sic] across a somewhat novel sight.” Although these ferries were built for large loads, sometimes their operators exceeded the limits with disastrous results. In 1897, The Independent, an English-language newspaper published in Seoul, reported on one such incident: “One of the ferryboats at King’s Ferry capsized two days ago with thirty passengers and two oxen, including two boatmen and they were all drowned. The police dep’t ordered the ferrymen not to carry such a large number of passengers in their boats during the rainy season.” With the frequent dangers and deaths associated with the Han River, it comes as no surprise that those who plied the river tended to be a superstitious lot. Mulgwisin (물귀신), the ghosts of those who drowned, were believed to haunt parts of the river while in other places dragons were rumored to have their lairs. The superstitious—and those wanting to cover all their bases— offered sacrifices of alcohol and food to placate the spirits and guardians. Junks and river travel on the Han all but disappeared during the modernization of the mid 1950s and early 60s, the only exceptions being small tourist cruise ships. But history has a way of repeating itself. President Lee Myung-bak has set in motion efforts to make the Han River once again open to large ferry boats and small ships traveling to and from Incheon. In the near future, the Han River may once again become a gateway to Seoul.

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A TASTE OF KOREA W h i t e K i mc h i 백김치 Baekkimchi This is the kimchi that proves wrong the assumption that they’re all red and spicy. As baekkimchi doesn’t use a single red pepper flake, it’s palatable for kids, the elderly, patients with stomach problems, and even grouchy foreign barbarians. While baekkimchi may be the wallflower at the kimchi party, it’s chock full of vitamins and is good for taking down a stubborn cold.

Seven Kinds of Kimchi W o r ds by Dav i d C a r r u t h , sh ots by Dy l a n G o l d by

Everyone knows kimchi. Spicy, pickled and made of cabbage. Or is it? These generalizations may be true of Napa cabbage kimchi, the most popular kind, but there’s much more variation than you might think. We’ve combed through the kimchi catalogue to find seven less common, but still highly delicious, varieties. Next time you see a UFO (Unidentified Fermented Object), pull out this article to see what it is.

G r e e n O n i o n K i mc h i 파김치 pa gimchi Long, slender green onions (not the bulbous yellow variety) are the basis for this kimchi variant, most frequently prepared down south in Jeolla and Gyeongsang. Aside from the great taste, the green onions here can rid fish of toxins, aid stomach function, and restore energy. Snack on this one with a bowl of makgeolli.

G e o tj e o r i 겉절이 While the majority of kimchi is left to rot, er, ferment for months and possibly years, geotjeori is a notable exception as it can be eaten right away. It’s briefly dipped in salt and sometimes drizzled with soy sauce instead. Diners who prefer a milder, fresher kimchi will enjoy this unfermented but still flavorful dish.

R a d i s h C u b e K i mc h i 깍두기 kkakdugi Unlike its tamer cousin danmuji (단무지, pickled yellow radish), kkakdugi is one radical radish. It’s prepared by cubing a radish and then pickling it with the standard combination of kimchi preservatives. If you find kkakdugi tough to snag with chopsticks, just use a spoon. It’s sharp flavor makes it a great pairing with comparatively bland dishes like seolleongtang (설렁탕) and kalguksu (칼국수).

Yo u n g R a d i s h K i mc h i 열무김치 Yeolmukimchi The radishes used in yeolmukimchi are much smaller than those that go into other kimchi dishes, which puts the focus on the stem rather than the vegetable itself. The radishes are dunked into a flour porridge with red pepper flakes, garlic, and other ingredients and then put in the fridge to pickle. The chilled but spicy broth is a favorite in the summer months.

N a b a k K i mc h i 나박김치 Nabak kimchi gets its name from the Korean expression nabaknabak (나박나박), which means dicing up vegetables very fine. This refers to the radish and Chinese cabbage which are cut into thin squares and soaked in a water bath with a bit of chili powder thrown in to spice things up. This one is generally eaten in the spring and summer, whereas a similarly soupy kimchi called dongchimi (동치미) is served up in the winter, minus the spice.

C h i v e K i mc h i 부추김치 buchu kimchi Chives go into this classic Gyeongsang Province kimchi. Unlike other varieties, buchu kimchi should be eaten before it gets sour, as too much fermentation will ruin the flavor. Since it’s easy to make, this is a good choice for budding kimchi cooks to start out with.

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10 T i p Have we left you pickled pink? For more, refer to the banchan (side dish) article in our September issue for info on Napa cabbage kimchi and chonggak kimchi (another radish-based dish).


The Ultimate in Culinary Customization

Chef Michael Yantzi at Bao has made it his mission to serve up meals that are fast, fresh, healthy, and tasty. W o r ds and sh ots by C h a r l e s M o n t g o m e ry


hat if, to quote the slogan of a certain popular fast food chain, you could really “have it your way?” At Bao, at the foot of Gyeongnidan in Seoul, you can. In fact, at Bao, unlike many other restaurants in Seoul, you can have your food reliably vegetarian, and even vegan. Meat-eaters, however, should not be scared away by this as Bao also offers plenty for carnivores among us. Unusually, at Bao there are no meals on the menu. Which is just as chef Michael Yantzi wants it. Michael was living in Sydney, Australia, as a student at the Cordon Bleu. But while he was learning how to cook French food, he was also working in what he describes as a “fresh, fastfood, stir-fry” restaurant. He quickly came to love the fresh, easy, and healthy food that he was cooking. When it came time to return to Korea to marry his wife (also his partner at Bao) and pay off his student loans, he decided that this was the type of restaurant he wanted to open. This was how Bao got started. Michael thought the time was right: “People’s palates have become a lot more educated. They know a lot more about food, they are a lot more well-traveled, they’ve tried a lot of different things.” Furthermore he notes that Bao’s concept is a green one. “I hate wasting food when people are going hungry. It also means we’re fresh, we order our vegetables every other day, and we go completely through them.” Michael also thought the location was right. He notes


10 Magazine November 2011

that Gyeongnidan is a bit more residential than the heart of Itaewon—it has a nice community feel. He says, “There are many vegetarians and vegans here. We can do a vegan dish, and that’s not always available.” Bao’s philosophy can be summed up, Michael says, as “fast, fresh, healthy, and tasty,” but he might also add to that, simple but varied. The idea is novel—you choose each element of your meal. First, you decide if you want a regular or large meal, reasonably priced at W7,000 and W9,000. This choice gets you one of three stir-fried noodles or two kinds of rice and egg (omit if vegan). Add to this from a selection of nearly a dozen vegetables and top with one of five sauces. Extras include various proteins and aromatics. All this choice can be a bit daunting. As Michael notes, “Coming in here can be a bit of a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it, it’s fine. You design your own meal from start to finish.” And once you do get the hang of it, the chef promises, you will be eating healthy, fresh, environmentally friendly, inexpensive, and most importantly, delicious food. And, when you are done, you can finish off your meal with something delectably unhealthy: dessert at Bao is always deep-fried and includes ice cream and oreos! Getting There Bao is located near exit 2 of Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6). 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-797-4769

Tartine Supplies Itaewon Residents with Authentic American Pies Tartine is protected by ADT CAPS

Tucked away in an alley in Itaewon with an attentiongrabbing sign of a woman’s face, Tartine is already well known as the dessert café among food aficionados in Korea. Tartine was opened by American Chef Garrett and Korean YoungHo Lee, his friend of 10 years, and it is one of the few cafés in Korea that serve authentic American pies. The baked goods at Tartine are not altered to suit Korean tastes, but instead stay faithful to the time-tested recipes of Chef Garrett’s mother. Customers can enjoy the unique flavors, fresh ingredients, and crispy crust of these truly American pies.

The octagonal sign in the yard means absolute safety.

Tartine’s specialty is sweet tarts stuffed with delicious fillings such as blueberries, strawberries, cherries, and pecans. Of these, the sinfully sweet, syrup-laden pecan pie is the favorite of Korean guests. Popular with the ladies is the A La Mode, a slice of pie served up with ice cream. Thanks to its simple taste and charm, the original Itaewon shop has seen considerable success, and now Tartine will expand its business by opening a second shop in early September across from the first location. By introducing new items including a brunch menu which were not available in the first shop, Tartine plans to continue providing classic allAmerican dining options.

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Ex pat Ex per tise resistance and do it ourselves. Without receiving any sort of legal advice we sign that contract with our employer/employee, landlord, supplier, or (former) spouse. Don’t do it. Don’t ever sign anything you don’t understand fully. Your signature is binding, and there’s no going back. You could end up without custody of your child, with no job, home, workplace, or in the worstcase scenario, in jail or deported. I have seen all of these things happen, not because the person deserved it but because they just didn’t know their options. The fact is that there are plenty of places where expats in Korea can get good legal advice for free or for a small fee. Before you do that, though, there are certain things you should be aware of regarding how things work in Korea. The following will serve as a quick breakdown. By the end, you won’t be versed in Korean law, but you’ll be ready to find someone who can help you.

Knowing Your Legal Options Words by Reyes Galvan

W h o Ca n a n d Ca n ’t H e lp

There is a lot of confusion about who can offer assistance because there are several kinds of legal agents in Korea, including attorneys (변호사), labor attorneys (노무사), and scrivener notaries (법무사). There are others, but these are the three main types. Attorneys (변호사): You might also refer to them as “lawyers,” but no matter what you call them, they have gone to law school and passed the Korean bar exam. Once you hire an attorney, they can represent you in court or in meetings and file documents for you. They are not restricted by law type (see the “types of law” section below), and they are legally able to give advice on any legal matter. Use them for drafting contracts, filing a civil suit, or defending yourself from a criminal charge. As of this writing, there are no expat attorneys in Korea; that is to say that no expat has passed the Korean bar exam. Of course, there are plenty of foreign legal consultants who can legally practice in their countries of origin.


aybe you are considering changing your visa status. Maybe there is a labor dispute with your employer or one of your employees. Someone could be speaking badly about you or your company, or, worse, may have assaulted you. A landlord may be trying to remove you from your house, apartment, or office, or you may be trying to remove yourself from a relationship that just isn’t working. In all of these situations, you find yourself asking, “Should I talk to a lawyer?” For an expat, it is a difficult question because it entails other complicated questions:


“Do I need an interpreter?” “How much is too much?” “Who can I trust?” Unable to answer these questions, many of us just take what seems to be the path of least

10 Magazine November 2011

Labor Attorneys (노무사): We also call them labor lawyers, but, in fact, they are not what we may think of as an “attorney” or a “lawyer.” To become a labor attorney, one must pass a certification test, but this does not require one to go to law school. They are not part of the bar, like attorneys, and cannot represent anyone in court. They can, however, represent people at the administrative body commonly known as the Labor Board, part of the Ministry of Labor. This is convenient because the Labor Board will normally request in-person meetings when investigating a labor dispute, which may be difficult for people who are working. This convenience may be the only reason anyone might want to hire a labor attorney, as they are not qualified to offer legal advice on anything other than labor law, and what they do you could easily do yourself with some research. Scrivener Notary (법무사): This kind of legal agent is basically a legal scribe. The agent can file legal paperwork on your behalf but cannot represent you at all. Some people might use these agents to fill out trademark or copyright registration forms, but almost anything that this agent can do you can now do yourself online. Remember, they can tell you about forms and processes, but they are not attorneys in any sense. If you want legal advice, scrivener notaries are not the persons to ask. Of these agents, the only one that can give you a full range of legal advice is the attorney.

Ty pe s o f L aw

Korea is a civil law jurisdiction, not a common law jurisdiction. This means that legislation determines what a law says more than judges or precedent. In common law jurisdictions, by contrast, judges may interpret the law and in doing so also set precedents that may be used by other judges in the future. Korean law can be broken down into four different types: civil, criminal, labor, and immigration. The interesting part is that your status in one may not affect your status in another. For example, you may be a foreign visa holder or even an undocumented foreign worker, but that may not affect how labor law is applied to you. O p ti o n s fo r Ev e ryo n e

No matter what your trouble, whether labor, civil, criminal, or immigration, I recommend following these steps: 1 Consult the corresponding government ministry 2 Consult a public service attorney (변호사) 3 Consult another public service attorney (변호사) 4 Choose a legal agent to help you and consult with that agent W h o A r e Th e y Wo r k i n g Fo r?

As you follow these steps you have to ask yourself one thing: who does this guy/gal work for? Go to a public service attorney first because these are attorneys who work for organizations like the Korea Legal Aid Corporation or the Seoul Bar Association. These organizations offer free legal advice, but they probably cannot represent you (you earn too much money) and can’t charge you (even if you earn enough money), so you can be sure they’re not just trying to get your business. Almost every law firm offers free legal advice, but the truth is that free legal advice is not always free, especially if you can be convinced to buy their services. In short, incentives matter. Even at public offices that offer free legal advice, some of the attorneys are employees of a law firm, so even if they are there to give free legal advice, there could be different motivations at work. So always ask yourself or just ask the attorney/person offering you advice who their employer is. Remember to shop around and start by getting the legal opinion of an attorney who has no financial incentive to lead you one way or another. W h at to E x pect fro m a Leg a l S e rv i c e r

Expect to feel comfortable. Be wary of any servicer that makes you feel uncomfortable, rushed, or even a little uneasy. You just shouldn’t feel that way when you’re trusting someone with your personal life, property, and possibly liberty. That’s why I always recommend that people get second and third opinions and start out with an attorney in the public service. S ta rt Lo o k i n g fo r Leg a l A i d

While the following is not a comprehensive list of law services, it will serve as a good place to get started. Now, when you are trying to resolve that labor dispute or considering divorce proceedings, you’ll know where to turn. • Itaewon Global Village Center with the Korea Legal Aid Corporation* public 02-2199-8883, • Seoul Bar Association public 02-3476-6000, • Korean Legal Education Initiative* public • Kim & Yun (Law Firm Jungjin) private 02-567-4611 • JM Law Group private 02-533-9167, * Meets regularly and holds public meetings. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 19

S eo n y u d o Pa r k 선유도공 원

Built on the remains of an old sewage treatment plant, Seonyudo Park was Korea’s first recycling park. Opened in 2004 with a focus on environmental issues, the islet (also called Seonyudo) is connected to the mainland by an eco-friendly wooden bridge built in a joint project with France. Everything is designed to reflect the history of Seonyudo and to promote thinking about the importance of the environment. Among other creative uses of the space, you’ll find sculptures made from rusted pipe valves and play areas using recycled equipment. Basins that once held chemicals used in the purification process are now home to an aquatic garden. A walk though this part of the park gives visitors a chance to learn about the water cycle and the important role plants play in the natural purification process. The concrete waterways were left intact and now connect this part of the park to one of its other gardens: the Garden of Transition. This area is home to the most intact structures of the old plant, which now host a garden for moss, ferns and a range of aromatic plants. To get the best view of the area, take a walk on the elevated path built from salvaged sections of the old underground waterway or grab a window seat at the riverside café. Although any time of day is a great time to visit, the gardens are particularly beautiful at night when the lights of the bridge come on. Bear in mind that the park has a limited capacity and can get crowded on the weekends.

Gardens of Eden Words and shots by Curtis File


orea has a lot to offer in terms of its natural beauty, and there are few better ways to start exploring it than by visiting some of the botanical gardens dotted around the country. Whether you’re looking to learn more about the environment or just enjoy a romantic stroll, Korea is home to many unique and beautiful gardens offering you a chance to reconnect with nature. Top The pink beauty found at Seonyudo park is a fine specimen of Nelumbo nucifera.


Bottom from left A plant in the tropical section of the botanical garden and walking path at Seoul Grand Park. Next page from left A man reflecting by the water garden and Mountain Phlox (Phlox Subulata L.), both at the Seoul Iris Garden

10 Magazine November 2011

H o u r s The park is accessible 24 hours a day. Operating hours are from 6 am – midnight. G e t ti n g th e r e Take line 2 or 9 to Dangsan Station and go out exit 1. From there take bus 605, 6623, 6631, 6632, or 6633 to the Hanshin Apartments stop and cross the pedestrian bridge into the park.

S eo u l G r a n d Pa r k 서울대공원

While not nearly as beautiful as some of the country’s other gardens, the botanical garden at Seoul Grand Park (actually located not in Seoul but in the southern suburb of Gwacheon) is definitely one that merits a trip. The 0.7-acre plot at the base of Mt. Cheonggyesan contains almost 1,300 species of plants, offering a little more variety in their greenery. Here you’ll find everything from orchids and herbs to more exotic tropical and desert plants. Of particular note are the rare species of insect-eating plants on display. As the gardens are located in one of the major theme parks in Korea, you’ll find lots to do on your way there. A trip on the gondola will give you a bird’s eye view of the zoo and lake below. In addition to the botanical garden, the park also features a separate rose garden with over 400 varieties of the flower. If you’re in the mood for a nature walk, check out one of the eleven themed paths

in the nearby forest. H o u r s : April-September: 9 am – 7 pm (last admission is at 6 pm); October-March: 9 am – 6 pm (last admission is at 5 pm) G e t ti n g th e r e : Take subway line 4 to Seoul Grand Park Station and head out of exit 2.

S eo u l I r i s G a r d e n 서울 창포원

Nestled between Suraksan and Dobongsan mountains are the sprawling greens of the Seoul Botanical Garden (also known as Seoul Iris Garden). Spread over 15,000 square meters of land, the garden boasts 130 species of iris along with a plethora of other greenery. Of particular interest is the park’s medicinal plant garden, one of the twelve zones the park is divided into. With 70 different species, it is the largest collection of medicinal herbs in the country. Also of note is the park’s wetland area, which features an observatory and education center. Here, visitors can learn about aquatic plants while taking in the beautiful surroundings of the garden. Plenty of rest stops and benches are plotted around the perimeter and the grassy lounge area near the entrance, providing the perfect spot to soak up some sun or have a picnic with friends. While the flowers are best viewed between May and June during their blooming season, they remain bright all though the summer and a trip during the fall offers breathtaking views of the autumn foliage on the mountains. H o u r s The park is accessible 24 hours a day. Operating hours are from 7 am – 8 pm. G e t ti ng th e r e Take line 1 or line 7 to Dobongsan Stn and head out of exit 2. The park is right outside.

Ac ro s s th e Co u ntry

From the Garden of Morning Calm in Gyeonggij Province to Yeomiji Garden on Jeju Island (one of the largest gardens in Korea), there are plenty of places to stop and smell the flowers wherever you may go. See the list below to find the gardens nearest you. Chungcheong Province • Beartree Park (Yeongi-gun) 041-866-7766 Gyeonggi Province • Garden of Morning Calm (Gapyeong-gun) 1544-6703 • Kwanak Arboretum of Seoul National University (Anyang-si) Reservations required. 031-473-0071 • Pyunggang Botanical Garden (Pocheon-si) 031-531-7751 Gyeongsang Province • Gyeongsangbuk-do Arboretum (Pohang-si) 054-262-6110 • Gayasan Wildflower Botanical Garden (Seongju-gun) Permit required to photograph flowers. 054-931-1264 Jeolla Province • Juknokwon (Damyang-gun) 061-380-3244 Jeju Island • Halla Arboretum (Jeju-si) 064-710-7575 • Jeju Bunjae Artpia Museum (Jeju-si) 064-772-3701 • Yeomiji Botanical Garden (Seogwipo-si) 064-735-1100 10 Magazine November 2011 | 21

Korean desti nation

Paper Bound

A Brief Introduction to Paju Book City W o r ds A N D S H OT S by V IOLET K I M

With Mount Simhak hugging the east side and the Han River lining it to the west, Paju Book City already has feng shui to spare. But the main draw of this neighborhood are the books that serve as its raison d’être.


aju Book City, the surprisingly attractive industrial complex 30 km north of Seoul, charms at first glance. The striking architecture, which runs the gamut from austere to whimsical, forms a dramatic and visually pleasing juxtaposition with the tangle that is the surrounding swamp. But Paju Book City is more than just another pretty place. The neighborhood is densely packed with galleries,

bookstores, studios, and cafes. The trick is of course finding these places. It’s easy enough to indulge in detailed and extravagant descriptions of how, well, pretty the place is. But it’s harder, particularly for the newcomer, to look beyond the landscaped entrances and differentiate between a legitimate art gallery and a very large and stylish lobby.

Ta nTa n S to ry H o u s e

73 21 D e s i g n

In terms of size and scope, Paju Book City doesn’t always seem the most familyoriented neighborhood. And sure, it’s no playground, but if your kids can read (or if you’d like them to), then a visit to the TanTan Story House is in order. This multi-story building houses exhibitions on the third floor, a gallery on the fourth, and finally a book café, which is just another way of referring to a bookstore that will pour you coffee while you pore over their books. TanTan Story House’s galleries are spacious and varied, and their book café stocks both English and Korean reads. Opening hours are from 10 am to 5 pm from Monday to Friday, and 11 am to 4 pm on Sunday.

If you’re a fan of designer stationery, and go mad over luxurious paper, decoupage gift boxes and leather notebooks, this outlet store will only feed your addiction. Open seven days a week, from noon to 6 pm, this 7321 Design outlet stocks basics like books, journals, albums, and stationery, albeit with none-too-basic designs— and at scandalously discounted prices. Check out their catalogue at to get an idea of their aesthetic. Warning: It might awaken desires you never knew existed. 031-955-7351

some sense an art gallery, the term “gallery” would not do justice to the artists in residence at Makeshop Art Space hard at work in their studios upstairs. The “Space” in Makeshop Art Space encompasses not only the st udio and the galler y but also the Médiathèque in the adjacent wing. The glass-walled Médiathèque “Iconic Turn,” yet another part of the Makeshop Art Space family, is a comfortable room that screens the film shorts and media installations of artists currently in residence. Unlike the rest of the Space, Iconic Turn requires a W3,000 entrance fee for the film. The coffee, however, is free. Warning: Feel free to take photographs, just not for profit. The building design is—deservedly— protected by copyright. 070-7596-2500

Warning: More suitable for younger children but older people are welcome too. 031-955-7660

M a k e s h o p A rt S pac e

22 10 Magazine November 2011

Paju Book City, even for those in the know, is often overshadowed by its ostensibly artier neighbor, Heyri Art Village. But one would be hard-pressed to find a place like Makeshop Art Space anywhere else but at Paju Book City. “Space” is a fitting name, because while this space contains a gallery, making it in

Getting there

Take Bus 2200 from Exit 2 at Hapjeong Station (line 6). Get off at Iseok Sageori (이석사거리).

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10 N ews

Shots by Dylan Goldby

The 2nd Annual 10 Magazine “Korea Awaits!” Video Contest Winners


e at 10 Magazine marked our third anniversary this past October by handing out a couple of trips to Europe for our second annual 10 Magazine “Korea Awaits!” Video Contest. During the entire month of September, we accepted entries. Then the contest went into stage 2, when 1,000 voters from all over the world narrowed it down to the top 10 entries. Then our amazing judges, also from around the world, determined the ranking of the finalists. We would like to particularly thank our gracious judges: Jeong-hyeon Seo Korean Editor-in-Chief of Newsweek Korea Bruce Haines British CSO of Cheil Communications Greg Phillips American CEO of Chrysler Korea Keith Brett Canadian Co-owner of Between Ristorante and Lounge Christian Schindler German General Manager of Lufthansa German Airlines Korea

Our judges had their work cut out for them as the contenders this year were absolutely amazing. They all gathered at Between A scene from “2 Minutes in Korea” by Fabien Tran Minh, the first place winner in the contest

24 10 Magazine November 2011

Ristorante and Lounge this past October 12th for the Awards Ceremony and the big winner was - drum roll please - Fabien Tran Minh of France! He’ll be taking a trip to his homeland with a friend on Lufthansa German Airlines sometime in the next year. The entire top 10 were winners though, with second and third place taking home a two night’s stay at the Imperial Palace or Courtyard Marriott Seoul Times Square, and 4th through 10th taking home two tickets to either Jump or Nanta and W100,000 in dining gift certificates. The winners were: Second Place “2 Koreas” by John Weeke Third Place “Virtual Korea” by Kyla Christie Fourth Place “Korea, I Wanna See Ya” by Michael Durkee Fifth Place “Korea: Your New Favorite Thing” by John Finity Sixth Place “Come Visit Me” by Jason and Emily Morrow Seventh Place “Korea’s Top 10” by Leo Fuchigami Eight Place “Korea: Small Country, Big Things to Do” by Kyle Cawthon Ninth Place “Timelapse Korea” by Jason Teale Tenth Place “The Korean Time Machine” by Alex Sigrist

Visit our Youtube Channel at 10MagazineKorea to see all of the terrific videos entered this year. Now it’s your turn. The “Korea Awaits!” Video Contest will be happening again in 2012 with another great trip for two abroad as the main prize. Many of the contestants expressed how much fun they had and their intent to participate again next year. Do you have a clever idea for a fun video? Start your filming now, and you’ll be ready to enter the editing stage next year when we announce the contest!

! r e k a e r B d r o c e R l d r o JOIN THE BIGGEST Be a W


On November 20th, Pieroth Wines, will have a simultaneous wine tasting in all our offices in 25 countries to attempt to break the current World Record for the largest synchronised Wine Tasting in the World.

Date: Nov 20 (Sunday) Schedule: 6:30 to 8:00pm Cover Charge: 15,000 with prepayment, 20,000 at the door. Includes:

12 9

6:30 to 7:59 pm: 3

U enjoy complimentary glass of wine and appetizers U silent auctions and lottery prizes

6 Japan, Korea (+9h)

8:00 pm sharp U make a toast, and we break the record! 8:01 pm: U After Hours Shopping - special discount for this night only! 12 9

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Hong Kong, China (+8h)

For reservations and information, contact us at: or 02-711-9171 Proceeds from this event will go to the charitable organization: Another Home - a safe house for abused underage girls. Reservations required

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Special Thanks to our sponsors at AWC and Sante Fe Relocations Services.

6 Germany 路 Denmark France 路 Italy 路 Switzerland

American Women's Club- Korea

N o v . 2 0 , 2 011 + + 11. 0 0 G R E E N W I C H M E A N TIME ++Nov. 20, 2011

Asi an Desti nation


The One and Only It’s frequently spoken of as a jaunt during a trip to Hong Kong, but Macau truly is a spectacular destination in and of itself. Nowhere else this side of the Pacific boasts a half dozen billiondollar casino resorts, world-class shopping at great prices, and one of only two resident Cirque du Soliel shows in Asia* while also serving up mouth-watering Portuguese food and wine at the same prices you’d pay for galbi and soju at your local gogi joint.


* The offer is in Tokyo, Japan

10 Magazine November 2011


Wo r d s by S t ep h en Revere

lot has changed since Guy Laliberte and Daniel Gauthier started Cirque du Soliel with a ragged band of street performers back in 1984. Today there’s certainly nothing like Cirque in the world, employing over 5,000 people from over 40 different countries for 23 shows and more to come. Cirque itself, however, can be divided into rather distinct kinds of performances: the traveling shows and those with permanent homes. The Cirque folks refer to these as “touring” and “resident” shows. The touring shows are certainly breathtaking, and the great thing is they can bring the show to you, as Cirque so kindly brought Varekai to us last year when they put up their big tents near Seoul’s Jamsil Sports Complex. The sets put up in the big tents are amazing and the creative costumes, make up and feats of dexterity that the performers put on are just as stunning - and patently Cirque as any other show. But a Cirque resident show is something else all together. In a few locations where there are enough tourists and locals who can constantly feed the need to fill a few thousand seats a night, they are able to put together a amphitheater to host one and only one show for one or two performances a day for years at a time. They spend tens of millions of dollars on these custombuilt theaters, and the theaters become an integral part of the show, in turn putting the audience at the center of a 360-degree visual extravaganza with special effects that could never be put on in a tent. Las

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Vegas has eight such shows. In all of Asia, however, there are only two. And only one of those is in a tropical climate with casino-resorts on a scale just as big as Vegas - Cirque du Soleil Zaia at the Venetian Resort in Macau. Zaia is a truly spectacular show, the kind that only a resident Cirque can deliver. A massive half-dome sits in the center of the stage as you take your seats and laughter ensues as the performers meander around before the show starts. Then a couple of clowns come out for some hilarity and before you know it the real show has begun. That monstrous half-dome that you assumed was a permanent part of the stage slowly rises to become a giant floating spherical video screen, transforming colors and images as it rises above your head and before long an entire city full of inhabitants rises from under the stage to take the dome’s place. A variety of mischief ensues and there’s no way you can take in all of the performers on stage with only one viewing. It’s enough to make you think that if you came back again and focused on some other performers you’d get an entirely different show. From there Zaia takes you to the Orient for China’s lion dance combined with amazing Cirque-esqe acrobatic skills and on through people encapsulated in ice crystals floating above you, a giant polar bear crossing the sky in front of the moon, and an astronaut riding by on a flame-throwing giant bicycle. This is all interspersed with fire dancing, the flying trapeze and a gravitydefying trampoline conclusion, all of which have your heart skipping so many beats that you may want to have yourself checked after the show.

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et this is only one of many reasons to make it to Macau. Remember that hotel it’s in, the Venetian? Every one of their 3,000 rooms is a massive and luxurious suite, and prices run you about what a typical hotel room in Seoul would cost. Just like the Venetian in Vegas, they have the Gondola rides which pass through their Grand Canal Shoppes, a Western shopper’s heaven. Meander the cobblestone streets where street performers entertain and listen to the gondoliers serenading as you browse 330 stores and over a million square feet of shopping and dining. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 27

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Cathedral of Saint Paul

Perhaps, however, you’d like to also escape the modernity and see some real history. Macau has a 500-year history of East meeting West like no other location in the world. The Portuguese influence on life here is unmistakable, with architecture, food and a pace of life that is quite obviously touched by the Iberian Peninsula. For architecture, you obviously have to make the trip to the ruins of the Cathedral of Saint Paul (Sao Paulo) which was constructed in the 16th century and long held claim to the title of largest cathedral in Asia. Eventually Hong Kong overtook Macau as a trading port and the cathedral fell into disrepair until it was all but destroyed by a typhoon-induced fire in 1835. Fortunately, the facade still stands and marks the perfect start-

Senado Square

ing point for your downhill descent surrounded by classic European architecture, great art and knicknacks (along with plenty of delicious jerky and cookies), eventually reaching the bottom of the hill in the lovely and historic Senado Square. This is the place where you’ve seen those iconic pictures of the black and white waves of tile that are representative of Macau, but today it is sadly filled with the same brand names you run into at your shopping mall back home, rather killing the historic atmosphere you enjoyed on the way down. (Funny how I loved seeing those familiar brand names in the fake Venice but hated seeing them in the real Macau.) And then there’s the food! One great place to enjoy the food in a classic family atmosphere is in the residential community market area of Taipa Village, about a 10-minute walk from the Venetian and an area which boasts the strongest concentration of Portuguese restaurants in the city-state. Avoid the tourist traps named after Disney characters and head to one of the many places crowded with locals enjoying a dinner with their

All of the following hotels are massive properties, but some offer more attractions than others. Macau surpassed Las Vegas a long time ago in casino gaming revenue (last year it was about 4 times Las Vegas’s revenue) but they’re still lagging way behind Vegas for entertainment. They’ll all have beautiful pools and great dining, but Year Opened what casino-resort doesn’t? In the last The Venetian Macau 2007 few years, however, the entertainment, Hotel Lisboa Macau (original 1970 shopping and other hotel + Grand Lisboa extension) attractions have The Galaxy Macau Complex started to arrive too, (The Galaxy Hotel, Hotel Okura, 2011 as shown by their first Banyan Tree Hotel) resident Cirque show.


Rooms 3,000 2,362



The Wynn Macau Complex (Wynn Macau + Encore at Wynn Macau)





10 Magazine November 2011

Shopping Area The Grand Canal Shoppes (1,600,000 sq. ft. of retail space)

Shopping Arcade (square footage unknown)

East and West Promenade (380,000 sq. ft. of retail space)

The Boulevard (175,000 sq. ft. of high-end retail space)

Wynn Esplanade (26,000 sq. ft. of high-end retail space)

One Central (200,000 sq. ft of retail space)


City of Dreams (4 towers - Hard Rock Casino, Crown Towers, 2 Grand Hyatt Macau Towers)

The MGM Macau


Hall, Grand Canal Shoppes, and Casino at the Venetian

friends and family. A couple of good words to know when ordering include arroz (rice) and bacalhau (cod). These will come in handy for key dishes like Duck Rice (Arroz de Pato) or Cod with Cream (Bacalhau com Natas). Another local secret is the terrific Portuguese food combined with a seaside view and outdoor seating at Miramar restaurant on Coloane near the Westin. No matter where you eat, expect to enjoy authentic Portuguese dining for only $10 to $20 per person, and the terrific wine directly from Portugal for $3 to $4 per glass! (Can you say, “I’ll take a glass of port for dessert, please?”) And of course the pastry shops that are sprinkled around the city are full of beautifully self-explanatory works of gastronomic art that you have to enjoy at least once a day while you’re there. It may be one of the smallest countries in the world, but there’s a reason it’s also the most densely populated place in the world. A lot of people enjoy all that’s happening in this city-state that’s less than 4 hours from Incheon. Yeah, Hong Kong is great, but maybe you should save that for another trip. Attractions/Facilities

Signature Show

Gondola rides, Grado mini golf, Manchester United experience

Cirque du Soleil’s “Zaia”

Gaming-focused property Massive wave pool with artificial beach built with 350 tons of white sand, world’s largest laser show, UA Galaxy Cinemas Aquarium, Kid’s City, Dragon’s Treasure

The House of Dancing Water

Performance Lake, Dragon of Fortune, Tree of Prosperity, Moon Jellyfish Aquarium Gaming-focused property, Infinity Pool overlooking the South China Sea 10 Magazine November 2011 | 29

Where the Party’s At The Top 10 Clubs in Seoul and Busan

Words by Nina Hoffman


orea: the country almost begs you to stay up and watch the sunrise with it. And among the nightlife choices, the clubbing scene is impossible to ignore. However, with so many options, it becomes increasingly difficult to decide which destination is most worthy of your pay check. It sometimes seems easier to stick with old favorites where you know exactly how much you’re going to pay and what to expect from a night out. When entry to some places can run up to W30,000 plus drinks, throwing down on a new spot can be a serious investment that doesn’t always pay off. Luckily, we’ve done the leg work for you. Whether you’re going clubbing for the first time or want to try something different but don’t know where to start, the following list is just what you need.

30 10 Magazine November 2011


The elder statesman of the Hongdae night club scene. Currently in its 7th year, M2 may have lost some shine thanks to newer, bigger, and flashier joints, but it maintains a level of unbeatable consistency. You aren’t heading to M2 for the toilets, which are cramped, or the VIP area, which is at best basic, or the dance floor, which is only average in size. What M2 will always give you, though, is cute and friendly bartenders, well-priced drinks, and music that makes you want to dance your face off. The crowd is a good mix of foreigners and Koreans and you don’t have to worry about feeling under-dressed or not hip enough. It’s an all-inclusive environment that will have you dancing with the kind of abandon that is only embarrassing the morning after. W10,000 cover. Hongik Univ. Station (line 2, ex. 9), behind Luxury Su Noraebang. 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. 02-3143-7573


So where are all the celebrities partying? Ellui. Billing itself as “the finest venue ever” might be slightly ambitious, but it would be tough to walk away from a night there disappointed. A cavernous interior, massive DJ area and super-sized dance floor work well to set Ellui apart. They have no problems packing out the place on a weekend, but its size means you can dance comfortably and still find places to stop and drink without getting crushed by the crowd. A VIP area nicer than most people’s houses, bartenders that are better dressed than you are and pricey drinks can intimidate, but they play insanely danceable electro that makes up for it. If you’ve got the money and think you can roll with the A-list, you’ve found your new home. Oh, and they love confetti. W30,000 cover. In the basement of Ellui Hotel just south of the Yeongdong Bridge. 129 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. 02-549-6195


Given the smaller range of hip-hop clubs available in Seoul, it should come as no surprise that NB Gangnam holds some pretty wild parties. This club is consistently filled to bursting point and if you have personal space issues, you’ll probably consider it hellish. Those who are prepared to stake their claim for a spot on the dance floor and shake it with reckless abandon however, are in for an amazing night. The music is a good mix of commercial and underground hip-hop (although they do have a tendency to play the same big songs multiple times during one night) and they often have bartenders demonstrating bar flair skills with signs, cocktail towers and flames. NB is made for dancing, getting sweaty and getting very close to your fellow clubber. W10,000 cover. In the alley across the road from the CGV, between Gangnam Station (line 2) and Sinnonhyeon Station (line 9). 1308-4 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul. 02-595-5744 10 Magazine November 2011 | 31


Exit is about as far removed from any of the other clubs on this list as you can get. Looking like it washed up from Williamsburg, it’s all Ian Curtis posters, a bumping mini-dance floor and spilled drinks. The crowd divides its time dancing to the indie-electro inside and engaging in serious pop culture chat outside. Designed more like an over-sized garage party with a better sound system, the sliding doors are always open so it’s easy to shift between the cramped inside and the alley outside. Drinks are cheap, the music is fun and the DIY atmosphere gives the place a casual vibe you won’t find anywhere else. Just be careful when requesting tracks from the DJs: those Hongdae hipsters can be a judgmental bunch. No cover. Head down the staircase by the toilets at the Hongdae playground and walk straight down the small alley for 10-15 meters. It’s on the right. 1F, 362-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul.


Not a place to visit at the end of the pay cycle, Eden is painfully cool and not afraid to let you know when you’re not. The Eden crowd dresses to impress and no one looks as if they’d appear particularly out of place at New York fashion week. The attention to detail in the design is exceptional: beautiful lighting and probably the most impressive bathrooms this side of Namsan Tower. A medium-sized dance floor will have you bathed in laser lights and smoke from machines, but don’t expect too much affection from your fellow patrons: these people are here to be seen, not to socialize. The minimalist-electro played here can be hit or miss, but who cares when there are so many beautiful people to stare at? W30,000 cover. In the basement of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, near exit 4 of Sinnonhyeon Station (line 9). 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. 02-6447-0042


Not a mammoth club, but certainly a beautiful one, what Mansion lacks in size it makes up for in design. The vintage feel and giant chandeliers definitely give the place a more laidback vibe than the raging mega clubs in the area, but it does mean that Mansion misses out on some of the bigger crowds. It does however have Seoul’s easiest VIP area to sneak into and the giant semicircular booths are a perfect place to escape the action. The separation of the dance floor and bar into almost separate areas also means you can get a drink and enjoy it without having to worry about wearing it. If you want to sip cocktails, but don’t want to miss out on the dancing, Mansion is for you. No cover. Walk straight from Hongik Univ Station (line 2, ex. 9) and turn left at Bobos Hotel. 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. 02-3143-4037



Somehow you ended up in Itaewon, and you’re depressed there aren’t any good dance clubs to visit. Hiding down the side alley right next to the Hamilton Hotel is the answer to your prayers. B1 offers a welcome respite from the usual area pubs by providing a lounge/ club that is stylish, exclusive and brimming with welldressed Koreans. Playing a mix of trance, house and progressive, B1 is a small basement bar inhabited almost

10 Magazine November 2011

exclusively by locals who are in on the secret. Everything you’d expect from one of the mega clubs, but miniaturized, the regulars are prepared to put in over an hour waiting in line for the honor to party here. The key to B1 is arriving as soon as it switches into a nightclub (around 11 pm) to get your wrist band, and then come back when you’re ready to dance. W10,000 cover. From exit 1 of Itaewon Station (line 6), turn right at the first alley past the Hamilton Hotel and it’s on your left. 119-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 02-749-6164


While this club has had a lit tle trouble settling on a name (going from Answer, to La Nuit Blanche, and back to Answer again), it cer tainly has had no problems providing Seoul clubbers with a ultra-luxe environment to engage in plenty of high class drinking and dancing. Boasting one of the nicest downstairs VIP areas in Seoul, it’s reminiscent of Mansion, with its swinging chandeliers and elaborate design. Answer pulls in bigger numbers, though, and has been host to some major artists from the dance music world in recent years. The drinks aren’t cheap and it suffers from a fairly inconvenient location, although it does have a unique multi-tiered dancing area. W30,000 cover. Take a taxi at Cheongdam Station (line 7, ex. 9) for the Prima Hotel. Answer’s across the street. 125-16 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. 02-514-4311


Volume gives you everything you’d expect from a club in Seoul, with its state-of-the-art sound system, infatuation with confetti and laser beams and a mix of party-committed expats and locals. The large, island-shaped bar at the back of the dance floor serves cocktails in plastic yard glasses, which is a nice touch (no more spilled drinks). It also offers the great advantage of massive staircases on either side of the dance floor where you can drag your oversized beverage and take a breather while observing the happenings and hook-ups below. The DJ booth also has the same design as the one found in Eden, only slightly raised, with a small platform in the front. This gives you front-row, intimate access to the action: perfect for getting an up-close taste of all the house, electro and tech they consistently serve up. W30,000 cover. A 10-minute walk from exit 4 of Itaewon Station and exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station. Located past Yongsan-gu Office, next to the Crown Hotel. 34-69 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 1544-2635

Recommended Club in Busan Words by Gavin Phelps T h e Ve g a s - s t y l e d C l u b Elune in Haeundae is one of Busan’s best, with a steep cover to match it. Despite its beachfront location, shoes and a nice shirt are a must in this contemporary white couch, mirror-filled environment. The music is often void of vocals and heavy on the techno/ house genre which makes it a unique find. Ladies, no worries here. Men, bring a wingman or three! The floor has side couches tucked under the balconies offering a quasi-protected area for a quick release from the crowd. And there’s always a live DJ for some “flava.” W25,000 cover. From Haeundae Station (line 2) walk toward the beach and take a left past the Seacloud Hotel. Located in the basement of the Paradise Hotel on the right. B1, 1408-5 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan. 051-802-0555

Club Elune

Are You Ready to Get Booked?

The Other Kind of Night Club Words by David Carruth You’re in a smoky room, so large you can barely see the other side. Near a stage is a small dance floor, located past rows and rows of booths. Ushers are in the aisles, dragging reluctant women toward tables full of men drinking cheap whiskey. Loud hip-hop music starts blaring, and everyone heads for the dance floor. Then the music slows, and the floor clears again. This is not your average night club. In contrast with the places we feature in our article, this is a “booking” club. You recognize them by the gaudy neon signs saying 나이트 (“night,” from “night club”). Once you know, you’ll see them everywhere. Booking clubs offer conservative Koreans a way to strut their stuff and mingle with strangers without breaking the social code. Men advertise their social status by buying a table with a beer set (weak), a table with a whiskey set (respectable), or a private room (loaded). Females can get in for cheap, or even free. How it works: the servers escort (drag) women to the men’s tables and private rooms. They sit down, share a drink with the guy, and stay if they click. If not, they retreat to their original table. The more money a guy dishes out, the more women he can expect the ushers to bring, and tips are required for the best service. Still reading the article and up for the kind of “cultural experience” that doesn’t make it into the tour guides? Check out 10’s recommended items to bring with you—and to leave at home.



Judgmental Attitudes Yes, there’s something a little chauvinistic about the whole booking experience. If that’s a deal breaker for you, don’t go.

Adequate Cash For guys, at least W50,000 each, and possibly much, much more. Don’t forget to tip.

Underage Friends If they can’t make it into a normal club, they’re definitely not getting in the door here. Your Significant Other This is not the place for that romantic night out, especially when your date keeps getting dragged off to meet other people.

Decent Korean Either the language or someone who knows it. You’ll find English speakers in Apgujeong, but otherwise the local language is an essential. Proper Threads You thought Koreans looked nice at work? Just wait till you see their club attire. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 33

Special offers for 10 Magazine readers* Mention this ad and The Spice will waive corking fee on parties of 6 or more that book our private dining room and order from our delectable set menu during this holiday season.* The Spice is also running an Oyster and Sparkling Wine promotion to showcase French seed oysters grown on the West Coast of Korea. NEW to The Spice, Draft Beer! Buy two and get one free. Leeum Museum

Itaewon-ro Itaewon Stn.

Hangangjin Stn.

729-45 Hannam-dong Youngsan-gu, Seoul For reservations call 02-749-2596 * These offers are not available on December 24th and 25th.

E dited by DAVI D CA R RUTH and j i s u n m o o n

Special Event at Yegrina

Hotel InterBurgo EXCO in Daegu The InterBurgo EXCO Hotel is introducing a world beer promotion at the Yegrina Buffet restaurant. To mark the IAAF World Championships 2011, the Hotel InterBurgo EXCO Daegu is offering two bottles of beer of your choice for only W10,000. Upgrade your order to three bottles for W13,000 and 5 bottles for W20,000. Enjoy the flow of fizzy beer with a complimentary buffet. Lunch 12 - 3 pm, dinner 6 - 10 pm (offer available through December 31st). 053-3800-210

A Honeymoon Package for Your Special Day Novotel Ambassador Busan

Andreas Krampl Appointed Executive Chef for the JW Marriott Hotel Seoul

The Novotel Ambassador Busan is offering guests a Honeymoon Package to make their special day more memorable. It includes a Bulgari bath kit and Seascapes breakfast buffet for two, champagne and chocolate provided in the room, access for two to the Club Esprit spa, and 10% off restaurants in the hotel (room service, minibar, and liquor are excluded). Available through the end of 2011. W240,000++, W350,000++ (additional charges for weekends and ocean view rooms). 051-743-1234

JW Marriott Hotel Seoul On October 4th, German Andreas Krampl was appointed executive chef at the JW Marriott Hotel Seoul. Krampl started his career in 1993 at a Michelin 1-star restaurant, Schlosshotel Höfingen in Germany, and soon moved on to a Michelin 3-star restaurant, Residenz Heinz Winkler and numerous renowned hotels worldwide including the Sheraton, InterContinental, Grand Hyatt, and JW Marriott. Chef Krampl is eager to introduce guests to a harmonious blend of Asian and European cuisine.

Seoul Doors Art Fair Imperial Palace Seoul

Inspired by the Doors Art Fair’s success in preceding years, the Imperial Palace Hotel is once again turning over 40 hotel rooms into special galleries. The Doors Art Fair marks itself as a frontier in hotel fairs, introducing new rising artists to the market and allowing them to present their work. Enjoy this opportunity to indulge in some of the finest artwork in a natural, relaxing setting from November 25th to 27th. 11 am - 8 pm. 070-8836-8718 Adults W10,000, minors W5,000.

Trevi Lounge “Happy Hour” Promotion Renaissance Seoul Hotel

The Renaissance Seoul Hotel’s Trevi Lounge is offering an affordable happy hour promotion through November 30. Enjoy unlimited drinks including the unique “sojutini,” draught beer, wine, juice and two snack platters with four different items each at an affordable price. Snack Platter A includes vegetable spring rolls, fried chicken wings, melon and parma ham, and shrimp canapés while Platter B has potato wedges, crumbed shrimp, smoked salmon sticks and fresh fruit. Monday - Saturday, 6:30 pm - 9 pm. W35,000++. 02-2222-8627

Four-Course Fall Meal Celebrates “Gifts from the Sea” Marriott Executive Apartments

Tongyeong is well-known for its fish market and for its oysters. This month, iced oysters are being trucked straight from the Tongyeong market to the executive chef’s kitchen. Raw oysters on the half shell with lemon and olive salsa are the perfect introduction to Tongyeong’s slippery, savory delicacy and to “Gifts from the Sea,” a four-course homage to local seafood. Landlubbers are taken care of too with a beefy flank steak served with roasted oysters. Lunch 11:30 am – 2 pm, dinner 5:30 – 9:30 pm. W75,000++. 02-2090-8050 34 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Bartender Eom Do-hwan Introduces Six World-Class Cocktails

The Ritz Bar at the Ritz-Carlton Seoul The Ritz Bar, a new concept bar, will be featuring six world-class cocktails through December 31st. Sample some of the world’s finest cocktails created by The Ritz Bar’s own Eom Do-hwan, a winning bartender at the “World Cup 2010” of bartending in Korea. Try Heaven in My Mind, an early success based on traditional Korean drink sujeonggwa, or sample other winning cocktails from the competition including My Own Greek Salad or Smoky Rosemary. 6 pm - 2:30 am. W25,000++. 02-3451-8277

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Launching of New Mobile and Newly Renovated Homepage

Oakwood Premier Coex Center Oakwood Premier Coex Center proudly presents the new mobile site and the newly renovated homepage. They will feature general information about the property, as well as special articles on activities of the in-house guests and merchants in the neighborhood. When guests spread news about the new homepage through their blogs and send the link to, Oakwood Premier will draw winners for room vouchers, restaurant vouchers and other prizes. The mobile homepage will be easily accessible for smartphone users whenever they need to make a reservation or seek more information.

Hotel Service Just Got “Smarter”

InterContinental Seoul Parnas and InterContinental Seoul COEX The InterContinental Hotels have taken a big step forward toward “smart service.” In the InterContinental Seoul COEX’s 30th-floor Sky Lounge, you can now take a snapshot of a QR code and instantly get information and photos about the cuisine on offer, as well as info about the chef running the kitchen. Perhaps even more exciting is Table 34 at the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas and their interactive tablet menu. Use a 10.1-inch Samsung Galaxy Tab instead of a paper menu to see highresolution photographs of the cuisine, introductions to the chefs and hot new promotions.

Dish of the Year Promotion for November and December Courtyard by Marriott

It’s back by popular demand. MoMo Café has let the market pick its final promotion for 2011. Customers will face the delightful problem of twelve wonderful lunch choices on any given day in November and December. The special menu lists the top three items from the top four best-selling specials. Spicy stir-fried jjamppong with fresh seafood, udon with soup, and chicken teriyaki fried udon are the winning noodle entrees. The selected entrée will be prepared with fresh ingredients in the open kitchen, while buffet-style salad and dessert bars complement each meal throughout lunch. 11:30 am - 2:30 pm. W29,000++ - W37,000++. 02-2638-3081 10 Magazine November 2011 | 35

Expat News November 2011

Seoul Gourmet 2011 with Citicard: Gala Dinner with Korean Star Chefs

Clockwise from top left Choi Hyeon-seok (Elbon the Table), Jin Gyeong-su (La Saveur), Eo Yun-kweon (Ristorante Eo), and O Se-deuk (July)

Citicard’s Premium Dining Program, which brings Citicard holders benefits at over 1,000 restaurants, has greatly enhanced both brand recognition and customer satisfaction. As part of its efforts to become the trendsetter in dining culture, Citicard is sponsoring Seoul Gourmet 2011. Seoul Gourmet marks its 3rd anniversary this year, with world-class Michelin-starred chefs including Joan Roca and Pascal Barbot invited to the event along with distinguished journalists from abroad. As part of the festivities, Citicard is hosting the Seoul Gourmet Pre-Gala from October 26th through 29th. Guests can get a sneak peek at the dishes to be prepared by Korean star chefs from November 1st through 4th at top-rated restaurants Elbon the Table, July, La Saveur, and Ristorante Eo. Only Citicard holders can taste the 6-course menu along with meticulously-selected premium-level wines. 02-2004-1004

Ideal Wellness Chiropractic Center Opens in Hannam-dong Solutions for your back pain can be found at the Ideal Wellness Chiropractic Center, located in Hannam-dong in the Woori Bank building between the IP Boutique Hotel and Hangangjin Station. Under the concept of “Gentle Hands, Gentle Healing,” Dr. William Choi has made it a priority for his clinic to be a friendly, relaxing place for consultation and treatment. A US Boardcertified doctor, Dr. Choi has worked as a certified scoliosis specialist, certified AK practitioner, and certified chiropractic sports physician, and is currently a professor at the department of chiropractic at Hanseo University. Visitors to the clinic can also meet with specialists in massage and rolfing therapy for even more treatment options. 02-790-7246

Canadian MPs and Expats Share BBQ and Conversation Korea welcomed some honored guests last month who were kind enough to sit down with some of their fellow countrymen to discuss Canadian-Korean relations. Ca nada- Ko re a Pa r lia me nt a r y Fr i e n d s h i p G r o u p C o - c h a i r s Yonah Martin and Barry Devolin hosted an evening of LA Galbi at Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) in Samcheong-dong in an effort to spark up a casual conversation on Canadian-Korea relations as well as discuss the lives of Canadian citizens in Korea. Senator Martin is from British Columbia while Mr. Devolin is the Conservative MP for Haliburton-Kawartha, Lakes-Brock region, and Assistant Deputy Speaker of the House of Commons. The informal atmosphere this past October 11th gave rise to plenty of lively conversation about all things Canuck and Korea-related.

New Art Museum Gets Name, Fancy Fence Aside from the jackhammers, the main way you can tell that construction is taking place in Seoul is by the big fence encircling the site. The Seoul Branch of the National Museum of Contemporary Art, which is currently being built near Gyeongbokgung Palace, is turning the otherwise boring fence space into a work of art. Created by advertising designer Lee Je-seok, the artwork is divided into two series. The “Naked Museum” pieces reveal the Mona Lisa and other famous art figures in humorously suggestive poses, while the “Amazing Korea” series features people from around the world peaking over the fence. The museum, which has been named “UUL” (a shortform of uri, 우리 or “us”), is scheduled to open in 2013. For now, though, you can visit the pop-up store located near the future site of the museum. 02-2188-6000 36 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Edited by a ngel a Lee and Dav i d Ca rru t h

New “Attorney at Bar” at JM Law Group Kenwon Kim has recently joined JM Law Group, a boutique law firm specializing in civil litigation and corporate transactions, as the managing partner of the corporate department. After work, he loves to hang out in Itaewon with his friends, with his favorite spot being Baby Guinness. Though he travels a lot for business, when he is staying in Korea, this bar might just be the most likely place to reach him other than his office. If you happen to stop by and see this “attorney at bar,” consider saying hello. Who knows? Maybe you can get decent legal tips over a pint of Guinness. Considering his hourly rate, that’s a steal.

International Students Organize Sports Festival

KISSA (Korea International Students Support Association) follows up on the success of the soccer tournament held this past June with another major event. More than 3000 people from all over the peninsula are expected to attend the International Students Sports Festival, to be held on November 5th at the Namyangju Sports and Culture Center. Students in eight groups will be competing in categories including men’s and women’s soccer, volleyball, and ssireum (Korean wrestling), among others. Besides the sport events, there will be performances, games, events, and a raffle. More than mere competition, KISSA organizers hope that international students representing a variety of nationalities, races, and religions will find the games a chance to achieve greater unity.

Free Legal Consultations

at the Itaewon Global Village Center Every Monday from 10 am to 12 pm, the Itaewon Global Village Center is offering free legal consultations. A lawyer from the Korea Legal Aid Corporation (KLAC) will be at the center during these hours to give legal advice and answer questions about Korean law. The KLAC is a public-interest law firm that represents people who cannot afford a lawyer, so you may also be able to gain free legal representation in some types of cases such as criminal, domestic violence, and labor law cases. To make an appointment, contact the center by 3 pm on the Thursday prior to the week you wish to meet the lawyer. Tel: 02-2199-8884 Email: 10 Magazine November 2011 | 37

Valid through November 30th, 2011

Gastronomic News november 2011

Edited by K you ng - h ee Li m and Dav i d Ca rru t h

The Power of K

This month we’ve got three newsflashes involving the letter K. Looks like this underestimated letter is starting to flex its culinary muscles.

KFC Gives In to Potato Lobby Demands

48th Street, the 24-Hour Gourmet Restaurant It’s easy enough to find street food when those late-night hunger pangs strike, but what about something a little fancier? Fortunately for those with irregular appetites, the chefs at 48th Street restaurant in Cheongdam-dong, Seoul, are up whenever you are. Not only is the restaurant open 24 hours a day, but it also has a variety of fine foods to better accommodate groups who can’t settle on a single dish to eat. Need some pizza? They’ve got Italian covered. Hungry for Japanese? It’s on the menu. You can even go local with souped-up versions of Korean staples like wang mandu galbitang and yukgaejang. All this is supervised by Executive Chef Jay Lee, Italian chef Marco Gaspari and Italian GM Rodolfo Patella. Along with your meal, you can choose from one of the 300 international wines served in the intriguing modern interior. Buon apetito! 02-512-4648

The spuds have won again. KFC has added a new potato-based side dish to the fries, cole slaw, and corn salad already on offer. The new item is the Mini Hashbrowns, potatoes that are diced, molded into a triangle, and fried until crunchy and golden. You can order them separately from the side menu (W1,500) or just go straight for the new Hash Chicken Bulgogi Burger or Hash Shrimp Burger combos (W4,000). Health food experts are worried that fast food junkies will find it even harder to resist the temptation to ditch the veggies and go 100% deep-fried.

New “Red Crunch” Formula Makes Special K Even Special-er If you’re afraid that sugar-heavy cereals are causing you to put on the pounds, Kellogg’s latest release will be good news. Special K Red Crunch adds a healthy dose of Kellogg’s red crunch mix to the standard flakes. One 40g serving of Special K Red Crunch helps you meet your daily recommended allowance of protein (10%), nine kinds of vitamins (25%), and minerals such as calcium, iron, and zinc (10%). All these vitamins, minerals, and healthy amino acids are mashed with fiber-heavy roasted oats and bran and then mixed with a tangy fruit concoction made with prune puree and raspberry and strawberry concentrate.

Craftworks to Unveil New Beer on Brewery Tour

K-Pop Star Cards in Lotte Snack Packs

Anyone who’s tasted the fantastic home brews at Craftworks Taphouse in Noksapyeong has probably wondered where it comes from. This November 5th, Craftworks is giving you a chance to find out. Take a bus to the Kapa Brewery in Gapyeong and watch the new winter seasonal beer—Seorak Mountain Oatmeal Stout—being made. The trip, tour, an afternoon BBQ and a commemorative T-shir t cost W70,000. Add W8,000 for a big breakfast sandwich and subtract W10,000 if you’d prefer to deal with your own transportation. Tickets are available at the bar or you can email to reserve your spot. 02-794-2537

With K-Pop’s conquest of the T V screens and radio waves essentially complete, popular Korean music groups are moving on to snacks. Lotte Confectionary is responding to surging global interest in Korean music with a new line of K-pop snacks with English, Japanese, Chinese, and Korean text on the wrapper. There are seven kinds in all: K-Pop Jump, K-Pop Magic, K-Pop Toktok Chocoball, K-Pop Choco Biscuit, K-Pop Kancho, K-Pop Rice Chips, and K-Pop Cheetos, some based on preexisting treats. Inside of each snack are star cards featuring pictures of singers from various K-Pop groups. With members from Kara, T-ara, ZE:A, Nine Muses, Jewelry, Davichi, and Rainbow, there are 43 stars in all.

38 | 10 Magazine November 2011

What’s New

in the Itaewon Food Scene W o r ds by DAV I D C ARRUTH , sh ots by K at h y L i m

10 keeps you in the know about the latest food adventures to be found in the Itaewon area. Tartine Too…

American breakfast and pies

Tartine has built its reputation on authentic Western desserts, but now it’s expanding across the street and into the breakfast business. Recommended: Brender’s Deutch Pancakes, Pie à la Mode 119-18 Itaewon-dong 02-3785-3400

Noodle Box

Fried Asian noodle

Just outside of exit 3, this one’s super easy to find, and the fried rice noodles prepared in the open kitchen are just as easy to eat. Recommended: Mie Goreng, Pad Thai 1F, 127-5 Itaewon-dong 02-792-5598

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Le Saigon Vietnamese Yes, there’s pho, but this home-style Vietnamese restaurant has other dishes that you can’t find anywhere else in the country. The new shop is near the Wolfhound, while the original is across from Noksapyeong Station. Recommended: Bo Luc Lac (steak), Banh Mi (sandwich) 74-33 Itaewon-dong 02-792-0336 Le Grand Condé French Just across from Patisserie Michot and run by the same restaurateur, Le Grand Condé offers traditional French dishes with appropriately paired wines. Recommended: Tournedos Rossini, Crème de Langoustine 118-4 Itaewon 1-dong 02-6404-9872 Tabom Bra zil


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$)+&++#+ a`Va`Y Wag^]adWS

Yet another churrascaria joins the Itaewon scene. Through December 31st, get a free glass of Heineken when you order from the main menu. 5SXW4W` Recommended: All-You-CanEat Steak 2F, 168-12 Itaewon-dong 02-797-3363 Da

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10 Magazine November 2011 | 39

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Body Worlds & the Cycle of Life Exhibition Ongoing

From dust you came, and to dust you shall return—unless you donate your body to be plastinated by German anatomist and researcher Dr. Gunther von Hagens. Plastination is a technique invented by Dr. von Hagens in 1977 that stops the decomposition of corpses and turns them into odorless, solid, and moldable anatomical specimens. Dr. van Gunther held his first exhibition of these plastinates, or bodies that have been subjected to the preservation technique, in Japan in 1995. Since then, the exhibitions have expanded and toured Europe, Asia, and North America, with an estimated 33 million visitors [ Continued on page 55] to date.  NATIONWIDE


















Movies Contagion

Directed by Steven Soderbergh I’ve spent many happy hours watching strange viruses ravage the Earth—from Outbreak to 28 Days Later to The Andromeda Strain. I love a good illness-based disaster movie and I was thrilled to hear that Steven Soderbergh was putting his own stamp on the genre. He has come up with something quite remarkable that stands out as one of the strangest and most disturbing films you may see this autumn. Soderbergh has gathered a top-quality cast to tell his doom-laden tale: Matt Damon, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Winslet, Jude Law, Marion Cotillard and Laurence Fishburne each have their own part to play in this many-stranded story that takes us all over the world from Hong Kong to Chicago and back again. Each deserves praise for their performance, but it is Jude Law who stands out as a rather sleazy blogger with a penchant for homeopathic remedies and a snaggle toothed arrogance that shines through the desolation of the film. If you’re looking for fast-paced action then you’ve come to the wrong place. Soderbergh takes his time telling the story, focusing on how governments would deal with this kind of pandemic and leaving you Hindsight to ponder on the horror of the situation and the behavior of those a rou nd u s. It is t oo slow at times, but this gorgeously bleak disaster film is well worth a little patience. 42 | 10 Magazine

by Pa u l M at t hews

Hindsight 푸른소금

Directed by Lee Hyun-seung CGV has started up its English-subtitled movie program again, which means that those of us who need translation can once more enjoy Korean films on the big screen. One of their latest releases comes from the director of Il Mare, Lee Hyun-seung, who received the dubious honor of having his film remade in Hollywood as The Lake House (starring Keanu Reeves and Sandra Bullock). Hindsight is the story of retired gangsterturned-culinary student Du-heon (played by Song Kang-ho), and young sharpshooter Sebin (Shin Se-Gyeong), who is sent to track him. Things get complicated, friendships are formed and when a rival gang decides they want Se-bin to kill Du-heon it all gets a little messy. In fact, “a little messy” is a good description of the film itself, which takes a relatively good idea and draws it out far too long in a disjointed and increasingly boring fashion. Despite good performances from the two leads and some occasionally stunning cinematography, the film flounders and left me unsatisfied. Still, it’s good to have English-subtitled films back in cinemas. Let’s

just hope that CGV decides to show some better ones in the future. * * *

Killer Elite

Directed by Gary McKendry I went into Killer Elite purely on the promise of Jason Statham, Clive Owen and Robert De Niro shooting guns at each other. I’d seen the trailer and had expected a ballsto-the-wall, humorous, action-adventure; what I got was something much darker and much more serious. Killer Elite is a very adult action thriller based on the supposedly true story of an Arab sheik who hires assassins to kill the British special forces soldiers responsible for the deaths of his sons. Jason Statham plays Danny, a retired killer, who reluctantly takes the job to save his mentor’s life. Clive Owen plays Spike, a “Featherman” who is sworn to protect ex-operatives of the SAS (Special Air Service, an elite corps of the British Army). Robert De Niro plays Hunter, Danny’s mentor, and just seems to be in the film for the paycheck. It’s a gripping story that is sometimes poorly told. It’s director Gary McKendry’s first feature-length film and it shows. Despite the directorial problems and some dodgy English accents from the supporting cast, Killer Elite managed to grip me, and if you like a touch of conspiracy with your thrills, this may be worth a watch. Not required viewing, but a good antidote to some of this year’s mindless blockbuster fare.


Dates are subject to change.

November 3rd Johnny English

Reborn UK/USA. Comedy. Rowan Atkinson, Rosamund Pike; dir. Oliver Parker. Emma Stone, Bryce Howard, Viola Davis; dir. Tate Taylor.

November 3rd Griff the Invisible

Australia. Comedy/Drama/Romance. Ryan Kwanten; dir. Leon Ford.

November 3rd The Kick 더 킥 Korea/

Thailand. Action/Family. Jo Jaehyeon; dir. Prachya Pinkaew.

November 3rd Warrior USA. Action/

Drama. Tom Hardy, Jennifer Morrison; dir. Gavin O’Connor. November 3rd Guzaarish India.

Drama. Aishwarya Rai, Hrithik Roshan; dir. Sanjay Leela Bhansali. November 10th Dancing Cat 고양이춤

Korea. Documentary. Narrated by Lee Yong-han, Yun Gi-hyeong; dir. Yun Gi-hyeong.

November 10th Immortals USA.

Action/Drama/Fantasy. Henry Cavill, Mickey Rourke, John Hurt; dir. Tarsem Singh. November 10th Beginners USA.

Comedy/Drama. Ewan McGregor, Christopher Plummer, Mélanie Laurent; dir. Mike Mills.


November 17th Tower Heist USA.

Action/Drama/Crime. Ben Stiller, Eddie Murphy; dir. Brett Ratner. November 17th Moneyball USA.

Drama. Brad Pitt, Robin Wright, Jonah Hill; dir. Bennett Miller. TBA Drive USA. Action/Thriller.

Ryan Gosling, Carey Mulligan; dir. Nicolas Winding Refn. TBA King of Pigs 돼지의 왕 Korea.

Animation/Thriller. Dubbed by Yang Ik-jun; dir. Yeon Sang-ho. TBA Anonymous UK/Germany.

Drama. Rhys Ifans, Vanessa Redgrave; dir. Roland Emmerich. TBA White Snake China. Martial

Arts/Action. Jet Li, Huang Sheng Yi; dir. Tony Ching.

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Drama. Riccardo Moretti, Tania Squillario; dir. Paolo Benvenuti and Paola Baroni. TBA Apollo 18 USA. Horror/SF/

Hamilton Hotel Itaewon Station

Thriller. Lloyd Owen, Warren Christie; dir. Gonzalo Lopez-Gallego.


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by S oyeo n K imberly Yoo n

Third Season of High Kick Hopes for Replay of Sitcom Success Rumors were flying fast as director Kim Byung-uk prepared to release High Kick: Revenge of the Short Legs (하이킥! 짧은 다리의 역습), the third season of the wildly popular High Kick sitcom franchise.

When High Kick 1 was first aired back in 2006, it opened a new era for Korean sitcoms. From the beginning of the first season, which portrayed comical situations in the daily life of the Lee family, the series was much more popular than even the pro-

ducers expected. As a result, they filmed more episodes than initially planned and eventually aired a second season, High Kick through the Roof ( 지붕 뚫고 하이킥 ) (20 09 2010). T h e s e c o n d s e a s o n gained even more popularity and even created new slang such as the mild scatological expletive “Ppangkku ttongkku” (빵꾸똥꾸). With Koreans still clamoring for more sitcoms, Kim Byung-uk began work on a third installment of the show. The third season focuses on the Ahn family. In the first episode, the family goes bankrupt when Ahn’s friend, who is also the treasurer of the company, f lees the country with the money. When the Ahn family becomes homeless, they visit Yun Gye-sang (윤계상), Yun Yu-seon’s

brother and also a doctor, who kindly allows the family to stay at his place. Among the members of the Ahn family are Ahn Nae-sang, the father and former president of the company; Yun Yu-seon, the wife who undergoes a physical and mental breakdown; Ahn Jong-seok, the son who excels at ice hockey, and Ahn Su-jeong (Jeong Su-jeong from f(x)), the immature daughter who always picks fights with her older brother. Adding to the hilarity are the Ahn family’s neighbors, who include high school teachers and students. One character worth watching is Baek Jin-Hee, who plays a comic but also sympathetic role in the series. Although there were some negative comments about the first few episodes, suggesting that the plot and cast weren’t meeting viewers’ sky-high expectations, High Kick 3 is now finding its stride. The show is shaping up to become not merely a sequel to a popular sitcom but a new sitcom that can stand tall on its own. High Kick: Revenge of the Short Legs is on from Monday to Friday at 7:45 PM on MBC. 10 Magazine November 2011 | 43


November 3rd The Help USA. Drama.

Super Junior


Linus Blanket Show Me Love Sony Music This is more like it! A Korean band that isn’t af raid to be creative, imaginative, and push the boundaries of home-grown eclecticism, and do it mainly using English lyrics. Right from the outset, where the album takes off with some tasty Western swing (yes, you read that right) on “Rag Time,” the music on offer covers a lot of ground, all of which is presented well. “고백 (Gobaek),” with its smooth Asoto Union-ish vibe, and “순 간진실 (Sungan Jinsil),” with a decidedly Tommy James & The Shondells bent, both invigorate. Other cuts, like “Music Takes Us to The Universe” and “Show Me Love” demonstrate a profound compositional f lair—indeed, as do all of the tunes on this album. This is a superior effort from Korean musicians who are well-andtruly in sync with the times. Absolutely worthy of a listen or ten!

age of the early 1990s, England’s Stereo MCs were high atop the groove roost with tunes like “Step It Up” and “Connected.” Their path since then has been musically uneven—to say the least—but that inconsistency is now history, as one listen to this new release will verify. Taking musical ingredients from rock, house, dancefloor, dubstep, and D&B, this album pulsatingly announces its arrival into the new decade. While the whole CD resonates at high-vibe frequency, ­s ome tunes are (or should be) dance f loor standouts (which after all, is what the band does/did best). Check out “Far Out Feeling” with its Wall of Voodoo intro mutating into a serious dance groove, or “Bring It On,” a driving, meaty, beat-y visceral explosion. Then there’s “Sunny Day” with its hard electro-rock edge, and—oh hell, you get the idea. This album cooks; Stereo MCs have definitely “stepped it up” by M i c h a e l B e rry with this one. 

A-Cha S.M. Entertainment For those new to the genre, Super Junior’s latest album provides a solid example of quintessential Korean pop. The group repackaged their fifth album, Mr. Simple, itself a showcase in style over substance with LP-sized packaging for one tiny CD. The album is full of danceable synth pop, all of it so similar to hit single “Bonamana” that Super Junior ventures close to self-parody. The title track covers old ground—the same chanting and broken-record choruses—while the following pieces all boast similar rough edges that are softened by the ballads also found on the album. A-Cha contains several new tracks, among them “Superman,” “Oops feat. f(x)” and “A-Cha,” the former two stripped down hip pop numbers with blaring horns, the latter purely pop with a hint of Italo-disco in its lo-fi guitar line. While “A-Cha” personifies the best of Korean pop with its infectious attitude, it is neither surprising, nor essenby A n n a Or z e l tial listening.

Stereo MCs Emperor’s Nightingale !K7 Way back in the pre-personal d ig it al ga dget

Super Junior


by J o hn M e ns i ng

A Cautionary Tale Being able to talk with North Korean defectors is one of the perks of living in Korea, for those who are politically minded. If you haven’t yet had the experience, you can glean some of the rewards from pursuing Barbara Demick’s qualitative case studies in Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea (2009, 314 pages). Her profiles of six refugees compel the reader to see the general in the particular. One of the curious things about North Korea is its image as a “communist” country, a foil to the construct of capitalism. While the griefs of capitalism are real, the glories of communism are often imagined. Up north, the elite live very well, thank you, while the masses truly suffer. While Demick’s writing is good enough to be read several ways, her viewpoint largely supports the image of North Korea’s problems stemming from the idiosyncratic deficiencies of a despotic 44 | 10 Magazine November 2011

lineage. Others may prefer to see those leaders as a cat’s paw for the middle kingdom’s peninsular ambitions. As an aside, reading about the difficulties North Korean refugees have in adjusting to Korean mores makes inspirational matter for expats from other countries who are struggling similarly. A more quantitative survey of Korea’s other half can be found in Under the Loving Care of the Fatherly Leader: North Korea and the Kim Dynasty (2006, 896 pages) by Bradley K. Martin. Martin, an experienced hand at covering East Asia, is assured in his presentation of North Korea’s motives, abilities, and modus operandi, an overly conclusive tone which seems to overreach

the available facts. The book, however, is indispensible for a National Geographiclevel compendium of knowledgeable tidbits to rattle off. If you think it might be interesting to sneak across the border and try to interview North Koreans in their home environment, though, don’t. Laura Ling and Euna Lee tried to do just that, and got themselves thrown in the North Korean clink as a reward. Although Uncle Sam eventually got them out of prison and back to the land of the free and the home of the brave, an account of their ordeal—and the media campaign to free them—is provided in Somewhere Inside: One Sister’s Captivity in North Korea and the Other’s Fight to Bring Her Home (2010, 317 pages). Laura, together with her sister Lisa (a television personality in the US) tells the tale with surprisingly little insight into the larger geopolitical drama, focusing instead on the dynamics of family suppor t and personal tragedy.


by S taff o rd L umsd e n

Upcoming Titles Previewed at Tokyo Game Show Across Tokyo Bay sits the sleepy Japanese city of Chiba, home to the Tokyo Game Show (TGS), a yearly pilgrimage for industry players, journalists, and video game lovers from all around the world. On display at this year’s TGS, held on September 15th through 18th, were new wares from some of the biggest names in video games. Alongside Japanese favorites Sony, Konami, Capcom, and Namco Bandai were Microsoft with the XBox 360 and a plethora of PC games. And around the periphery, universities and polytechnics from around Japan touted their computer programming and graphic design courses to prospective students. Highlights from the show (and games to look out for in the coming months) are detailed below. This year Sony is all about the impending launch of the Vita, its handheld video game system set to replace the PSP just in time for Christmas. (Well, in Japan, anyway: the international launch is slated for “early 2012”.) With waiting times upward of an hour for attendees to get their hands on demo units of this handheld, Sony’s sprawling booth was packed with people even though it took up nearly half of one of the convention halls. Having braved the lines, this reporter can tell you the Vita is all it is hyped to be and more. A PSP with two analog controllers, touchscreen, and a touch pad on the back of the device make for an intuitive gaming experience. Expect grey-market Vitas to pop up in Yongsan later this year. Sony

Konami You couldn’t help but think Japanese game publisher Konami has run out of ideas lately with a large portion of its booth dedicated not even to sequels but rather HD re-releases of some of its most enduring titles. Among these were Hideo Kojima’s Metal Gear Solid 2 and 3 with HD versions for PS3 and Xbox 360, a 3D version of Metal Gear Solid 3 for the Nintendo DS, and, in a rare move, a PSP game (Metal Gear Solid PeaceWalker) for the PS3. Elsewhere, horror-shooter Silent Hill got yet another makeover while FIFA 2012 was shown around as well.

In something of a departure from the other major publishers, Namco Bandai spent a lot of time and booth space pushing social games for phones and SNS, some of which may find international release later next year. Other than that, the firm stuck to the basics, releasing new iterations of Metal Gundam along with a new version of Ace Combat, marking the return of this perennial flight simulator to the hallowed halls of TGS.

Namco Bandai

Capcom There are people of a certain age who only think of one thing when they hear “Capcom”: Street Fighter! Capcom developers partnered with friends across the way at Namco to produce arguably the hit of the show (for this reporter anyway), Street Fighter X Tekken. The game features your favorite players from both epic fighting game franchises, pitted against each other in epic hand-tohand duals in epic locations. Epic! (And for the kids there’s another version of Monster Hunter or something.)

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Display this coupon with your order of any entrée and receive one of the items shown above for free (W44,000 value). 10 Magazine November 2011 | 45

A Chinese Food Tour of Daerim-dong

Words and shots by Jamie Lepore Wright

If jjajangmyeon isn’t your idea of Chinese food, try the beef noodle soup, dumplings, and lamb skewers found in the Daerim region of southeastern Seoul.


out front, and the entrance to the right. Once inside, you’ll notice the handwritten menu in Chinese characters only, posted on red signboards. The thing to get here is dan dan mian (旦旦面), originally a specialty of Sichuan province in central China: a big bowl brimming with thin wheat noodles swimming in a peanuty broth, topped with pickled greens. You can order it spicy or mild(er) for W5,000. Different kinds of noodle soups and stir-fried dishes are also on the menu. For a 7quick snack while wandering, there are a variety of stalls along Beodeunamu-gil and in Jungang market that offer bao (包, steamed buns), deep-fried Chinese doughnuts, and bing (饼, 8large egg-topped pancakes with or without scallions). A





Daelim Boekjigwan-gil







Beod e




46 | 10 Magazine November 2011


9 #7 line Daelim Station


hen I f irst moved to Seoul and started craving Chinese food, people typically told me to go to the Chinatown in Incheon. However, I didn’t want jjajangmyeon (짜장면), tangsuyuk (탕수육, sweetand-sour pork) or jjambong (짬뽕). I wanted Chinese-style boiled dumplings and noodle soups, steamed buns, green onion pancakes, and grilled lamb skewers: foods I missed from studying abroad in Shanghai during college. Over a year ago, I heard about a Chinese-Korean neighborhood in Seoul around Daerim Station on line 2 and line 7 where 1 you could get “real” Chinese food, particularly Northeastern-style dishes. The area around the station is home to many Joseonjok (조선족), ethnic Koreans who were born or grew up in China. Korean and Mandarin are spoken here, often in the same conversation. It helps to know one of these two languages, but with a few tips it’s possible to navigate the restaurants and stalls without an extensive knowledge of either language. From exit 12, take a left onto Beodeunamugil (버드나무길). Immediately to your left you will see a 24-hour restaurant with a carved wooden American eagle statue outside the entrance. Keep walking and you’ll pass cell phone shops, hot pot restaurants, skewer restaurants, and grocery stores. There are also dog meat shops and signs advertising dog hot pot and dog dumplings in Chinese characters. For a meal, there’s a great place at the first major intersection down Bobae-gil (보배길) and to the right, called Big Sister Lu’s Beef Noodle Soup (卢大姐牛肉面, A), open 24 hours and, perhaps unsurprisingly, specializing in beef noodle soup. Their menu, which also features other Northeastern Chinese specialties, is in Chinese and Korean. Order a big bowl of their rich soup niuroumian (牛 肉面), either spicy la (辣) or numb-spicy mala (麻辣), for W5,000. Additionally, try the plump boiled dumplings stuffed with pork and celery called shuijiao (水饺, 물만두). The staff are very friendly and appreciate it if you speak Mandarin. If you’re either feeling adventurous or can speak Mandarin/read Chinese characters, check out Shanxi Knife Cut Noodles (山西刀削面, 02-26374005), a popular noodle shop on the left side of the main street past Bobaegil and down from the big supermarket on the right (B). Look for the ladies managing noodle baskets, ramen-style,










stand down the road (C) past Shanxi Knife Cut Noodles on the same side offers six steamed pork and vegetable baozi (包子, similar to bread-type mandu) for W2,000. Try the scallion pancakes in the market at a place run by a chatty man from Harbin and his Korean-Chinese wife: several large slices for W2,500. Daerim is also a source for some harder-to-find, reasonably priced groceries. I often go there for shallots, large fingers of ginger root, and bunches of cilantro. One of the main stores is located on the left corner of Beodeunamu-gil and Jungangshijang-gil (D, 02-832-8871), open until midnight, where you can buy Chinese sauces, liquor, star anise and dried chiles, pickles, pidan (皮蛋, hundred-year-old eggs), and other food products. It’s always an interesting place to explore. If you’re in Daerim at night, I suggest some lamb skewers and Tsingtao beer. Though places featuring the iconic skewer character 串 (chuan) are scattered everywhere, if you take a left at the grocery store onto Jungangshijang-gil, go past the market, and turn right onto Dasarang-gil, you’ll hit several places on one block. 양고기고치귀 전문 (聚香红 in Chinese, E) has a bright wooden interior and grills at each table where you can heat up your skewers. Another place is 好运来 (호운래), with the grill out front. Alongside the skewers come the ubiquitous Chinese pickles and peanuts, and usually some Chinese-style kimchi. Both places sell ten lamb skewers for W9,000. Given its wealth of restaurants and shops, one visit to Daerim will barely scratch the surface. With its visually and gastronomically hybrid character and friendly people, Daerim may soon become your go-to place for a Chinese food and culture fix.

Glossary • 串 chuan(r) : skewer/kebab • 羊肉 yangrou: l amb/mutton • 牛肉 niurou: beef • 狗肉 gourou : dog meat • 面 mian: noodles

• 麻辣 mala: numb-spicy (featuring Sichuan peppercorns and chiles) • 水饺 shuijiao: boiled dumplings 10 Magazine November 2011 | 47

SEOUL Philly cheesesteak

Food Review

A Declaration of Indulgence

English menu, some English spoken 

105 South St. Grill

Allowed on the outside deck 

Words and shots by Joe McPherson

Small step up

The authentic East Coast sandwiches in this Yangjae eatery take you back to Philadelphia.

Reservations not necessary


t doesn’t cease to amaze me how much and how quickly Seoul changes. I know I sound like an old timer by starting sentences with “back in the day.” Yet “back in the day” was less than a decade ago. Authentic-tasting non-Korean food could only be made in the home with black market ingredients. (Nothing scares me more than the term “black market sausage.”) Costco was the life line for those who knew how to get a membership. Nowadays, you don’t need that trip to Costco. You need that trip near Costco. A little chop shop that pumps out killer sandwiches has settled down a couple of blocks behind the Temple of Bacon and Cheese. Going by the name of 105 South St. Grill, it is a tribute to Philadelphia and eastern seaboard fare. Their signature item is the Philly cheesesteak. It doesn’t have the glowing Cheez Whiz of Pat’s and Gino’s in the City of Brotherly Love, but it punches a Rockysized knockout by loading down fresh hoagie buns with thinly sliced grilled beef, peppers, onions, and gooey provolone. The restaurant is owned by one of the nicest Korean couples you’ll ever meet, who 48 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Veggie sandwich and salads

really know how to grill a cheesesteak so that the meat has that crispy edge but still stays juicy. They serve this up with your choice of fried potato, and you can go to town with their collection of hot sauces. But they don’t stop there. I have been on a quest for a hefty loud Italian hoagie since my time in upstate New York. The 105ers got it down, dawg! I think they take advantage of their proximity to Costco to source some choice Italian cold cuts, and they top it with cheese and marinated veggies and a dash of oregano—to me, the signature of a great Italian hoagie. They also have meatball subs, a variety of salads, Buffalo wings, grilled Philly hoagies, and various chili-topped creations. On weekdays from 11:30 to 1:30, sandwich purchases get free fries and a soft drink. This makes it an ideal lunch stop when heading to Costco. It’s a small place and popular with the Korean worker lunch crowd, so don’t plan on holding a Constitutional Convention there. Beware: you may want to get a doctor’s note before ordering the double Philly cheesesteak. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.

Classic American sandwiches Gets crowded at lunch, so be patient. W5,500-W8,900 02-575-7867 218 Yangjae 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul. Up the street behind Costco, turn left at the coffee shop towards the small park. It’s on the right. 11:30 am – 9 pm Italian hoagie

SEOUL CALENDAR Design & Fashion Ongoing Free Market and Hope Market Weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6) 1 - 6 pm., 1330


Traditional Crafts Connecting Past and Future You can take a look at Korea’s traditional crafts while also learning how they were made. Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation near Seolleung Stn. (line 2, ex. 8). 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. 02-3011-2176 Through November 6th Secret of Portraiture Exhibition 200 portraits selected from Korea, Japan, and China. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Thur, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. 02-2077-9736 Through November 9th After Humanism Exhibition In the 21th century, humans will need time for self-reflection amidst the unceasing advancement of technology. Alt Space Loop near Hongdae. 11 pm - 8 pm. 02-3141-1377 Through November 13th Faces Exhibition Seven artists show the characteristics of faces in their work. Sky Art at the 63 Building near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 10 am - 10 pm. W12,000. 02-789-5663 Through November 15th Seoul Modern Art Show With the opening of the 2011 Seoul Modern Art Show in China, this exhibition is going global. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 11 am. - 8 pm. 02-312-0942 Through November 19th Agony and Ecstacy: Selected Works from the François Pinault Collection The first exhibition of François Pinault, owner of international auction company Christie’s. Twenty-two works by Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, Takashi Murakami and Cindy Sherman deal with how people perceive and respond to each other. Songeun Artspace near Chungdam Station (line 7, ex. 11). 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Sun. 02-3448-0100 Through November 27th Paintings of Rabindranath Tagore: The Last Harvest A collection of 49 paintings and related books are presented as part of the Korea-India friendship year. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Thur, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. 02-2077-9045 Through November 30th Show Me Your Hair Exhibition Hair

Through December 26th Dream Park Exhibition: Season 2 Unusual objects, light, sound and animation are used in these experimental works. North Seoul Dream Forest Art Center near Dolgoji Stn. (line. 6 ex.3) 02-2289-5401 November 2nd – 13th Richard J. Beaumont’s The Emperor’s New Clothes Exhibition Gallery Golmok in Itaewon. 10:30 am – 10 pm. Opening party Saturday, 11/5 from 6 – 10 pm. 02-792-2960 November 3rd Women Create Exhibition A host of performance artists and visual artists will present from 3 pm to 2 am. The show will provide a venue for women around the Seoul area to express their creativity. Laughing Tree Lab near Noksapyeong Station (line 6).


Ongoing Karl Lagerfeld’s Work in Progress Photography Exhibition Director of Fendi and Chanel, world-famous fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld titled the exhibition “Work in Progress” to reflect his motto that each work should improve upon what went before. Includes photographs from the 2011 F/W collections of Chanel and Fendi and more. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). Tue. - Sun. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 02-720-0667

contains human DNA and carries a compressed version of the history and memories of each individual. Coreana Museum of Art in Sinsa-dong. 10 am -6 pm. Closed Sun. Youth W2,000, adults W3,000. 02-547-9177

November 9th - 15th Sound of the Earth Exhibition Using soil as a medium, Jung Su-mo’s work mixes the two concepts of nature and human work. His works show a longing to return to basic instincts and stir wonder in modern viewers. Mokin Museum near Anguk Station. W5,000. Closed Mon. 10 am - 7 pm. 02-722-5055 November 12th - January 15th City Within the City Exhibition Through photography, installations, and video, 17 artists show the urban environment, with an emphasis on government-sponsored developments. Art Sonje Center. Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 11 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, minors W1,500. 02-733-8945 November 26th Erotic Fantasies Exhibition This exhibition will feature work from approximately ten IAC members and will also have an erotic fancy dress themed opening party. Blind Spot in Hongdae.

Theater & Dance Through November 6th Korea Mime Festival You don’t need to know Korean to enjoy a good mime show. Sundol Theatre in Daehangro at Hyehwa Stn. (line 4, ex. 1 & 4). Closed Mon. Tues - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 4 pm. November 11th - 20th Someone to Watch Over Me: The Play A play about an American, Irishman and Englishman who are locked in a prison cell in Lebanon. Performed in English. White Box Theatre. 11/11 & 11/18 9 pm, 11/12 & 11/19 8 pm, 11/13 & 11/20 4 pm. W15,000. November 12th Tiger and Bear’s Cave to Humanness Inspired by the Korean legend about the tiger and bear who are sent to a cave in order to become human. Performed in English. Roofers Bar in Itaewon. 9 pm. W5,000. November 12th - 19th Onegin: The Ballet Presented by Universal Ballet. LG Arts Center near Yeoksam Stn. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays: 8 pm. Sat: 3 & 7 pm, Sun: 3 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 - W10,000. 02-2005-0114

An experience to remember... Itaewon 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-790-7977 Samcheong-dong 31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-730-7461 Dogok-dong 464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Tel: 02-574-4468

Business Hours : 11:30am - 10:30pm

10 Magazine November 2011 | 49

SEOUL CALENDAR ar t re v i ew

November Art Worth a Look Paik Nam June has always been a key global figure in regards to video art. He pioneered the medium and pushed video to its technological limits with the impressive installations and sculptures for which he is usually remembered. The exhibition on show at the NJP Art Center through January 2012, entitled TV Commune, brings together pieces by Paik Nam June and other video artists who use live broadcasts as part of their work.


• NJP Art Center in Yongin, south of Seoul. 10 am – 7 pm. Closed 2nd and 4th Mondays. Adults W4,000, teens W2,000. 031-201-8571

Late Korean painter Choi Duk Hyo is in the spotlight at the Seoul Museum of Art with a retrospective of his work. After his death, his family donated a large selection (over seventy pieces) of his work to the gallery. These pieces make up about two thirds of the exhibition, with the rest coming from the gallery’s private collection and three donations from the National Museum of Contemporar y Art. An Exhibition of Works of Art by Choi Duk Hyu is on through November 13th.

Choi Duk Hyu, 54 x 80 cm, Lithography 1959

• Seoul Museum of Art near City Hall Stn. (line 1 and 2, ex. 10). 10 am - 8 pm (weekdays), 7 pm (weekends). Closed Mon. 02-2124-8800

Romanian artist Dan Perjovschi has an exhibit at the Total Museum of Contemporary Art in northern seoul titled The News after the News, running until December 4th. Perjovschi’s comic book-style drawings are his response to cur rent affairs. • Total Museum of Contemporary Art in Pyeongchang-dong. 11 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W3,000. 02-379-3994

Show Me Your Hair is a show running through November 30th at Coreana Art & Culture Complex in Apgujeong. The show features work by eleven foreign artists based on the theme of hair. Hair has significant meaning to humans. It is something that is both alive and dead, inside and outside, physical and spiritual. Each artist takes these a s p e c t s a n d d el ive r s them in their unique way. • Coreana Museum of Art (Space*C) near Apgujeong Station (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Sundays. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000. 02-547-9177

Herlinde Koelbl (Germany), Hair, 2007

50 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Wor ds by M a rt y n T hom p s on

Openrun Nonverbal Performances Lack of Korean ability can be a big stumbling block for plays or musicals performed in the local language, but you will find none of those problems at the following shows. All ongoing, and all non-verbal, these performances are perfect for fans of dance, physical comedy, and exciting music, no matter which language you may speak. The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy A would-be ballerina falls for a b-boy street dancer in this mash-up of break dance and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil Stn. (line 2). Wed – Fri 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. 02-2266-3727  Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the background for some awesome break dance routines. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. 02-323-5233  Bibap Bibap depicts one of Korea’s representative dishes, bibimbap. It was favorably received at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2010. Cecil Theater near City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 3) and Gwangwhamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 6). Closed Mon. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 02-766-0815  Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun & Holidays 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater. com 02-766-7848  Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their powerful performance. Myungbo Art Hall in Jung-gu. Tue - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. 02-586-8489  Fanta-stick This show mixes physical comedy with traditional Korean music for lots of laughs. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. 02-6401-5959  Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W60,000. 02-722-3995  Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for two daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Part 1: 6:30 - 7:30 pm, part 2: 8:30 - 9:30 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,200. Performance is W50,000 (30% discount with dinner). 02-2266-9101  Legend of Flower II This romantic tale of two lovers is back and better than ever with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton

Grande Walkerhill. Mon - Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. 02-455-5000  The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & 1st & 15th. 70 min. W30,000. 1661-1063  Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Stn. (lines 1, 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. 80 min. W30,000 – W50,000. 02-751-1500  Music Theater Company Gong A modern take on the traditional music and dance of the Joseon Dynasty. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. 1544-1555 

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Three Seoul locations and performances almost daily. W40,000 – W60,000. To find out how to get a big discount on your tickets, see p. 29. 02-739-8288  Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, dances, and games. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Weekends and holidays at 4 pm. Closed Mon and Tue, and from 11/2 – 11/13 this month due to an overseas tour. 90 min. W30,000 W50,000. 02-722-3416  Sa-Choom The story of three friends’ coming of age is told through dance. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Mon - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W25,000 - W50,000. 02-3676-7616  Samcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of traditional Korean musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 am - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. 02-765-3700

November 12th - 19th Seoul Dance Festival At this festival you can enjoy various genres of dance including Korean dance, modern dance and ballet. As it’s a competition, you can see the highest quality of performances. Arko Arts Theather near Hyehwa Station. 7:30 pm. W20,000. 02-744-8066

November 6th Chris Botti in Concert Trumpeter Chris Botti is proficient in pop, jazz, and classical music. He has released 12 albums and performs all around the world. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W50,000 W150,000 02-3461-0976

November 17th Journey Through Ballet To be performed by the Lee Won-guk Ballet Troupe. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000. 02-951-3355

November 12th Two Gallants This duo hailing from San Francisco weave stories of loss into the pure nostalgic sound of America. Two Gallants have matured into a “country punk” force to be reckoned with. Club DGBD near Sangsu Station (line 6). W15,000. 010-8546-8381

December 1st - 3rd Guernica: The Play What makes us human in situations like the bombarded city of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War? Performed in Korean. Guro Art Valley Theater. Thu & Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. blog.naver. com/chointheater 02-929-6417

Concerts November 3rd and 5th Sound Triangle: Lig & Steim This international collaborative project presents straight and curved sounds by Korean and Dutch artists. Based on sound and text, the concert shows that sound art is near us all. LIG Art Hall. Gangnam Station (line 2, ex. 8). 11/3 8 pm, 11/5 5 pm. Adults W30,000, minors W15,000. 1544-3922 November 4th Lasse Lindh in Concert Swedish singer-songwriter Lasse Lindh, who wrote an essay about her experiences in Korea, has also made a special album for Korea titled The Tiger with No Stripes. Sangsangmadang Live Hall. Sangsu Station (line 6, ex. 1). 8 pm. W50,000. 02-324-3814 Saycet and Sogyumo Acacia Band in Concert Saycet, a French ambient, experimental pop band, throws its first live show in Seoul. Rolling Hall in Hongdae. W25,000 in advance, W30,000 at the door. 8 pm - 11 pm. November 4th - 5th Kim Gun-mo in Concert Celebrating 20 years as a singer and his 13th album, Kim Gun-mo is planning concerts in Korea, America and Japan. Olympic Hall near Olympic Park Stn. (line. 5 ex. 3). 11/4 8 pm, 11/5 7 pm. 120 min. W66,000 - W132,000. 02-542-4145 November 5th S20 Youth Festival A new kind of festival held for the common good. Dynamic Duo, Jang Jae-in, Monni and Deli Spice will be playing gigs and Lee Bum-su and Jung Hyeong-don will tell stories. Floating Stage at the Yeouido Han River Park, near Yeouinaru Station. (line 5, ex. 2). 12 pm. W10,000. 02-722-2046 November 5th and 19th Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by a chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. Mokdong Station (line. 5, ex. 4). 4 pm. W10,000. 02-1577-4579

November 15th - 16th Berlin Philharmonic Concert The Berlin Philharmonic, one of the world’s finest symphony orchestras, will be playing late romantic compositions by Mahler and Bruckner. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 120 min. 8 pm. W50,000 - W450,000 02-6303-7700 November 26th Brian McKnight in Seoul R&B musician, producer, and singer-songwriter Brian McKnight holds a couple of unusual records. He is proficient with nine instruments (piano, guitar, bass, drums, and more), and he has been nominated for 16 Grammies. This concert is part of the release tour for his new album Just Me. Jamsil Gymnastics Stadium (line. 2 ex. 6 & 7). 8 pm. W79,000 – W119,000. 02-407-2589

Fresh! New Taste! Taco / Burrito / Fajita / Quesadilla Enchiladas / Margarita & Beer

November 29th 1,000 Won Happiness Enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000. Sign up between the 5th and 7th of each month to get a seat. 7:30 pm. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 1544-1887 November 30th Mogwai Scottish post-rock band Mogwai is highly regarded for its guitar-based instrumental work. AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Station (line 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W66,000 in advance, W77,000 at the door. 010-8546-8381

Film Ongoing IMAX Screening “Legend of Flight” Soar through the sky with the planes on the huge IMAX screen. This documentary follows the development of airlines in the 20th century and focuses on the design and production of the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner, which was released in 2009. 63 Building near Yeouinaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 43 min. Screenings throughout the day. 02-789-5663 November 22nd - December 4th Robert Altman Retrospective Six movies will be shown to commemorate the late Robert Altman. This influential director captured the reality of American society in films such as Nashville. Cinematheque and Seoul Art Cinema near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 4) or Jongno3-ga Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). W6,000. 02-741-9782

Family & Community Ongoing Kukkiwon Taekwondo Demonstration Performance Every Wednesday and Saturday at 4 pm, a popular martial performance will be presented by Kukkiwon, home of the World Taekwondo Academy. Performed at Namsangol Hanok Village near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3 & 4). 02-567-1058

Everyday 11:30 am ~ 10:30 pm

Catering & Delivery Service Available • • • •

SINCHON: 02-324-0682 COEX CALT: 02-565-0682 TIMES SQUARE: 02-2672-0682 APGUJEONG: 02-518-0682 10 Magazine November 2011 | 51


November 24th - 27th Seoul Int’l Choreography Festival This festival-cum-competition is a chance for teams of choreographers to develop their skills and become competitive players on the world stage. Arko Arts Theather near Hyehwa Station. 8 pm. W20,000. 02-325-5702

SEOUL CALENDAR L i v e M u sic Shot by Shangtai

Ongoing Royal Horse Guard Parade A royal horse guard parade will depart from Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate every Tuesday through late October. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min. Free. 02-771-9951 Saturday Cultural Plaza Every Saturday at 2 pm, the Cultural Plaza at the National Theatre of Korea features free performances, open markets, and more. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 5:30 pm. Free. 02-2280-4288

Hummed Melodies and Megaphones Demian the Band


ho said you need music lessons to put together a great band?

None of the guys in Demian the

Band can even read sheet music. This group of four

Korean boys relies only on humming melodies and playing chords to help them make their music. But it’s a perfect

recipe for them to create grassroots magic and indeed to throw a rockin’ party on stage. Going to one of their shows gives the familiar feeling of being back at home in a beer-flowing concert hall overlaid with the dynamic energy of a British pop-influenced rock band. The boys know how to work the crowd by putting their all into it. When they perform their song “Vintage Dance,” they throw down some funky beats with a slight homage to 80’s British pop bands like New Order and Pulp. A megaphone is even used on the vocals to give a distorted sound that just fits. It makes for a fun, danceable song. Luckily this is a permanent tune on their set list. The band came together eight years ago and have stayed together ever since, which is a rarity. They sing most of their songs in English so they “can get a wider fanbase,” said Jang, guitarist and vocalist. It looks like it’s working out well because their shows can get pretty packed. With their 2nd album, Your God Forgot, released earlier this year, Damien is back in the studio working hard to put out another single by the end of the year. But don’t worry, as they can always be seen and heard in and around Hongdae. If you are looking to break the monotony, they will not disappoint. For more information about Demian the Band and their upcoming shows, check out DemiantheBand and Wor ds by Alyssa Perry  52 | 10 Magazine November 2011

November 3rd - 6th Int’l Kids Products Fair All kinds of children’s products will be exhibited including school supplies, interior decoration, books, computers, and a lot more. Parents will definitely want to check this out. COEX Hall A, B. 10 am - 6 pm. Preschool children and teachers free, children W3,000, adults W5,000. 02-3453-8887

and performance, but the technology at this festival is focused on providing comfort, relaxation, and community. Grand Peace Palace at Kyung Hee University. W100,000 - W300,000. 1566-1369 November 15th - 16th Asia Future Forum Hosted by the Hankyoreh Media Group, this event is held to facilitate collaboration between Asian nations. Lotte Hotel Seoul. 070-7425-5237 November 17th - 20th Korea International Sign & Design Show COEX near Samsung Station (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 5 pm. W5,000. 02-6000-1107 November 18th - 20th KOPET: Int’l Pet Product Expo aT Center in Yangjae-dong. 10 am - 6 pm (5 pm on 11/20). W5,000. 031-782-1630 November 19th

November 4th - 6th Eduainment Expo Lots of activities for kids to check out, including Korean traditions and farm life. SETEC (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center). 10 am - 5 pm. 02-557-6776 November 4th - 20th Seoul Lantern Festival Batman, Spiderman, and Superman appear as lanterns at this annual festival. This year, visitors can enjoy more than twice the number of lanterns that were displayed last year. Head to the Cheonggyecheon, Seoul’s beautiful restored stream, to see the display. 02-120

1st Record & CD Fair in Seoul Meet the vendors or be one yourself! An opportunity to come across that LP or CD you were looking for. Platoon Kunsthalle in Shinsa-dong. 10 am - 10 pm. For more information, contact

Through December 25th Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da Try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), drink tea, and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese, and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. Closed Mon & Sun. 90 min. 02-399-1114

November 25th - 27th Int’l Beauty Expo COEX at Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am. - 5 pm. W5,000 (register online for free admission). 02-6000-1518

Education & Conferences

Sport & Fitness

Ongoing Beginner’s Photography Class Korea’s only photo class taught by a real photographer and English native speaker. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (group discount available). photoseoul 010-9609-9965

November 11th - 13th Bachata Weekender with 5 Int’l Instructors World-famous Dominican bachata instructors Troy Anthony and Brittney are coming to Korea as part of their world tour and they’ll be bringing all their energy, humor and passion. Club Mambo in Gangnam. Search for “Bachata Weekender” on Facebook for the workshop and social dancing schedule. Book in advance by sending an email to

Weekly Lecture on Buddhism Curious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). 011-229-2829 Through November 30th Learn Korean Traditional Crafts Each Friday, foreigners are invited to attend classes on aspects of traditional Korean culture such as hanji (Korean paper), hanbok (Korean clothing), folklore, and dance. Please call before you go as the class may be canceled if not enough people sign up. The National Folk Museum. 10 am - 12 pm. W5,000 - W10,000. varanoteddymania@gmail. com 02-3704-3104 November 9th - 10th Tech +2011 Many technological breakthroughs result in greater speed

November 12th “Love Parks” Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full marathon, to depart from Sindaebang Station exit 3 at 9 am. W15,000 W25,000. Sign up by November 5th. 1644-4219 November 27th End of the Season 42.195 Marathon 5k, 10k, half and full marathon, to depart from Han River Citizen Park Event Square at 10 am. W40,000. Sign up by November 18th. 02-597-7425 December 3rd Helping Undernourished Children Marathon 5k, 10k, half (2 pm) and full marathon (12 am) to depart from Han River Citizen Park Event Square. W40,000. 1566-4423

e di t or’ s p ick


St. Andrew’s Ball November 19th 

Family & Community

Toward the end of the month, expats of Scottish descent— and anyone else interested in the land of William Wallace and Robert Burns—will have an opportunity to celebrate one of Scotland’s most important days with an extravagant ball. November 30th is the feast day of St. Andrew, as well as Scotland’s national day, and is honored by the people of Scotland and the Scottish diaspora worldwide. St. Andrew, the brother of Simon Peter and one of the first disciples of Jesus Christ, became the patron saint of Scotland around the middle of the 10th century. Many cities throughout the world have a St. Andrew’s society, and Seoul is no different. The main function of the St. Andrew’s society of Seoul is to serve as a focal point for all things Scottish. The society holds three main functions per year: St Andrew’s Ball, Burns Night, and the Muckleshunter—a traditional Ceilidh (pronounced “Kay-Lee”), or Scottish party. The St. Andrew’s Ball this year will be held on November 19th at the Grand Hyatt in Seoul. Many in attendance will wear tartan, with men in traditional kilts and ladies in their finest dress. As well as good Scottish fare, there will be plenty of whisky and Scottish dancing. Unique to Seoul is a breakfast around 3 am. This tradition harks back to the days when Seoul had a curfew and the St. Andrew’s Ball was indeed an all-night affair. If you need a refresher course on Scottish dancing techniques, head to the Broughton Club at the British Embassy on Wednesday nights (November 2nd, 9th, and 16th) from 7:30 to 9:30 pm for dance practices (W5,000 per person). The ball starts at 7 pm. The cost is W130,000 per person and guests are expected to wear black tie. The Grand Hyatt Hotel is located on the slopes of Namsan near Hangangjin Station (line 6). For inquiries regarding the dance practices and the ball, contact Douglas Barrett at More information is available at A traditional Scottish Quaich is a two-handled shallow cup that represents friendship.

10 Magazine November 2011 | 53

SEOUL CALENDAR A contingent of British ladies

‘Where you’re more than just a guest’



Melbourne Cup Luncheon November 1st 

WELCOME HOME TO FRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

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e di t or’ s p ick

Dine & Drink Ongoing Homemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten ( next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm. W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook.

Twelve Singing Animals: Children’s Musical

Through December 25th 

Family & Community

If you’re ready to treat your kids to some classier entertainment than TV cartoons like Pororo the Little Penguin, Latt Children’s Theatre is the place to turn. They are the only English-language repertory children’s theatre company in Korea, and through December they are presenting a reprise of the musical Twelve Singing Animals, which has already been seen by over 100,000 people. Based on the twelve animals of the Asian Zodiac, the high-spirited production focuses on a greedy dragon and the animals who teach him to share. The jazz, punk, rock and roll, zydeco and acapella in the score will have both Korean and expat children singing and dancing in their seats. Latt Children’s Theatre in Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu. Saturday and Sunday, 1 & 4 pm. W40,000. Children must be over 36 months old. 02-5600-999 54 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Family & Community

The first day of November, join ANZA Korea for a quintessential Down Under tradition. The Melbourne Cup, known as “the race that stops the nation,” is a horse race that is held the first Tuesday of November. Australians who can’t make it to Flemington Race Course in Melbourne can still visit the Regency Room at the Grand Hyatt Seoul for a live broadcast and an Australian-themed lunch. The sweeps, or betting, close at 12:40 pm, while the race itself starts at 1:01 pm. But Melbourne Cup is as much about “fashions on the field” as it is about the actual race, so beautiful dresses, racy ties and fabulous hats are sure to make an appearance. At the luncheon, Chanel and Moet & Hennessy prizes will be given for best hat, best-dressed women and men. A fashion show by premium Korean designer Kay Kim will round out the day.

Korean Cooking Classes and Tours Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English and explore some of Seoul’s more exciting culinary districts with O’ngo Food. 02-3446-1607 Through October 30th Int’l Bakery Fair If you were having trouble finding a pie roller, you’re guaranteed to locate it here. Hall C, COEX. 10 am - 5 pm. W4,000 - W8,000. November 4th - 6th Salted Shrimp Festival Known in Korean as saeujeot, pickled shrimp is an essential ingredient in many Korean dishes. Peace Square at World Cup Park, near World Cup Stadium Station (line 6). 02-312-1100 November 9th - 12th Korea Alcohol & Liquor Expo & Korea Food Expo A great chance to try out all sorts of alcohol and liquor at a bibulously low cost. COEX near Samsung Station (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). W3,000. 10 am - 5 pm. 02-6000-2805 November 11th - 12th Makgeolli Expo Not just Korea’s, but

the world’s only makgeolli expo. More fermented rice beverages than you can shake a bowl at. COEX near Samsung Station (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 10 am - 7 pm. Sign up online for free admission, W3,000 at the door. 02-6000-2800 November 24th Thanksgiving Dinners Despairing of getting some decent turkey this year? Do yourself a favor and check out our online list of establishments offering Thanksgiving dinner: thanksgiving2011. November 24th - 27th Int’l Fancy Food Festival and Seoul Cafe Show Both are held in COEX, with the Cafe Show ( in Hall A and the Fancy Food Festival (fancyfood. in Hall B. COEX is near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). Both are held from 10 am. - 6 pm and cost W10,000 each. 02-6000-0114

Travel Ongoing

Palace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. 02-3210-3266

e di t or’ s p ick



Body Worlds & the Cycle of Life Exhibition Education

[Continued from p. 41] The Body Worlds & the Cycle of Life, the exhibition currently underway at the War Memorial of Korea, is intended to show how the body changes over time, beginning with the embryo and progressing on through youth, adulthood, and into old age. “The Cycle of Life will remind people of what’s at stake as they age and help them learn about living a long, healthy life,” Dr. von Hagens says. The pieces on display are organized into several installations that focus on themes such as pre-natal development, the developing teenage brain, and regions of the world such as Okinawa that display astonishing longevity. The War Memorial of Korea is located near Samgakji Station (line 4 & 6, ex. 12). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W15,000, minors W12,000. 02-541-3184  Wor ds by Dav i d Ca rruth November 5th Trip to Seoraksan & Osaek Hot Spring Your choice of three hiking trails. Due to Seoraksan’s location, you can see many beautiful beaches and try tasty seafood, as well as fresh mountain herbs and vegetables. W99,000. 010-4242-5536 November 12th Trip to the DMZ There is no other place quite like the demilitarized zone separating the two Koreas. A visit to Imjingak, the 3rd tunnel, Dora Observatory and Tongilchon (unification village) will help you to understand the world’s only divided country. W42,000. 010-4242-5536 November 13th Autumn Foliage Caving & Ferry Riding This relaxing trip includes a beautiful lake, thrilling cave, and plenty of breathtaking scenery that doesn’t require strenuous hiking. W48,000. 010-4242-5536 November 19th - 20th Sudeoksa Temple Stay A 2-day temple stay at Sudeoksa Temple in Yesan-gun, one of the most famous temples in Korea. This temple stay offers a unique chance to learn about Korean culture and the lifestyle of Buddhist monks. W89,000 0104242-5536

Nightlife Ongoing Club Day After a 6-month hiatus, Club Day has returned to Hongdae. As before, it’s held the final Friday of each month. Entrance to M2, Via DD, NB2, Saab, Qvo, Ska2, and other top Hongdae party

spots along with a free drink only costs W20,000. 8 pm - 6 am. Open Mic Night at Ireland Yuki Enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday night at Bar Ireland Yuki. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Located near Itaewon Station (line 6, ex. 2), right next to Kraze Burger. Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 02-794-2537 Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon. com 02-790-0793 Stand Up Seoul Comedy Night Korea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on the first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, Sunday Funday Seoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). Through October 30th Halloween Parties For the best places to have some Halloween fun, check out our party list at halloween2011.

10 Magazine November 2011 | 55

SEOUL DIRECTORY Olympic Parktel Jamsil 02-410-2114 Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong 02-3672-1972 Medical Services

Seoul Foreigner Assistance


ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center  02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese  02-2199-8882 Itaewon/Hannam English   02-2199-8883~5 Relocation

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm.  02-796-9633 Unique Travel Itaewon  02-792-0606 Xanadu Travel 02-795-7771 Insurance

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625 Law Firm

A Plus Dental  02-3442-7616 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists.  02-3218-2167 Korea Counseling Psychological Association 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center  02-927-4322 New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu.  02-792-2296 Ra Dental Clinic  02-569-8745 Tufts Dental Clinic  02-553-7512

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean Attorneys Civil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at Radio

TBS eFM  FM 101.3 American Forces Network  AM 1530 / FM 102.7

Crown Relocation Worldwide When your family is looking to move, trust Transportation your worldly possessions to the CV2011SG_May_pr003.indd 1 23/05/2011 15:33:40 professionals at Crown.  02-796-5717 International Taxi (English Speaking)  1644-2255 Accessories Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)  02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map Hotels/Accommodations

On hats & luggage tags Noksapyeong Itaewon McDonald’s Market

Only takes 1 minute

Burger King Hannam-dong International Arcade

02-796-9052 Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu.  02-796-9052 Travel Agencies

Cosmojin Tour  Fides Travel

02-318-0345 02-755-5470

56 | 10 Magazine November 2011 Korea’s version of Expedia. 4-5 Star Hotels Astoria  02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard  02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan 010-9071-4641 Guesthouse Korea Jongno 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae 070-8291-4878

World Jewelry Museum 02-730-1610 Kimchi Field Museum 02-6002-6456 Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art 02-733-4448 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art 02-2014-6901 Museum of Korean Traditional Music 02-580-3130 National Folk Museum 02-3704-3114 National Museum of Korea 02-2077-9000 National Palace Museum of Korea 02-3701-7500 Seoul Art Center 02-580-1300 Seoul Museum of Art 02-120 Seoul National Science Museum 02-3668-2200 War Memorial 02-709-3139 Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or Bikram Yoga Gangnam Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea. 02-532-2101 Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays.   02-771-2026 Ballet Stretching Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. 02-514-5575 Korean Tours

Adventure Korea 018-242-5536 Korean Safari 019-542-2955 O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine.  010-6661-7769 Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch 02-763-9483 USO DMZ Tours  02-795-3028 WOW Corea Tour  02-739-3337 Museums

Gahoe Museum


Speaking Listening Diction Presentation 그레고리 에트하트 영어 프레젠테이션, 비즈니스 영어, 메디컬 영어, 영어회화, 취업 유학 준비, 영어발표, TOEFL 말하기와 작문

Gr egor y Ethear t 01 0-9930-76 56 Greg’s English Private effective English conversational speaking and listening lessons for adults, middle and high school students. TOEFL, ILETS 010-9930-7656


Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@  010-8779-1969 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ 010-8688-9810 Restaurants

American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.  02-795-1303 Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. 02-795-9656

The Frypan Delicious fried chicken near Itaewon Station.  02-794-5598 Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. 02-749-9425 Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. 02-790-0540 Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659


International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. Jai Center for Yoga and Health  02-3443-9642 Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728 Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. html, Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes  019-201-5958 Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www. 010-4998-8722


Kimchi Pots

Noksapyeong Station Exit 2


Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi.  02-749-0508 Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere.  02-749-4225 Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. 02-790-8891


EST. 1984 Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some damn good ones.  02-792-1894

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. Hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. 02-797-3698 T.G. Brunch Cafe Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000.  02-749-8005 Toque Itaewon  02-794-3834 Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon  02-797-3820 BRAZILIAN Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of

10 Magazine November 2011 | 57



7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!  02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon  02-749-0600 Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. Itaewon  02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 Italian Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.  02-797-0488 Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong  02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some tastefully prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.  02-553-9000 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheongdong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewondong, Yongsan-gu.  02-790-7977 Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon  02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. Sinchon:  02-324-0682 COEX:  02-565-0682 Times Square:  02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon  02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon  02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong  02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon  02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon  02-790-4433 SPANISH Bodega Jamsil With flamenco every Friday.  02-3432-8686 Thai Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.   02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.   070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon  02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon  02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon  02-792-8836

58 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience.  02-749-2746~7 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. dulceysuave.  02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. 02-516-1761 Lounges / PUBS 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-3336 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.  02-6282-6763


B AR SHINCHON TEL:(02)3339733

P IZ ZA ITAEWON TEL:(02)7920007

w w w. be e ro c l o ck .c a Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Gyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times.  Sinchon: 02-333-9733 Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-0903

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am.  02-749-6164

flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.  02-793-7232 Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings.  02-793-2548 Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. 02-3447-1191


Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong.  02-795-6164 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.  02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1,  02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.  02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.  02-516-1970 The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am.  02-749-1210 Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats.  02-794-ALES

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Canadian Pub & Restaurant Monday Dry Rib Night Tuesday


Wing N

• W300 / wing • 11 different flavors • W5,500 cocktails Friday Bar special Saturday Live music/DJ Sat/Sun Truck Stop Brunch

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? 010-5189-2327 010-7196-0857

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.”  02-790-0776 Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large

Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. 010-5775-2327 Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar.  02-749-2970 Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul.  02-749-7933 Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff.  02-797-8201 Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night

Exit #1

Hangangjin Station

High Street Market (2nd floor)


IP Boutique Hotel Japan Plaza Buy the Way Exit #2 Cheil Building 제일기획


Hannam-dong Community Center Parking Lot

Itaewon Station Subway: Line 2 to Itaewon Station exit #2 Go straight and High Street Market is on your left Line 6 Hangangjin Station exit #1 Go straight and High Street Market will be on your right

Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 10 Magazine November 2011 | 59

SEOUL DIRECTORY long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl.  010-5839-9257 Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.   02-542-7412

Burgers & Bar 3F Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

Oakwood Premier Woori Bank



InterContinental Hotel

Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night.  02-790-0793 Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. 02-749-7971

Hyundai Department Store

LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.


Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.  02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae 02- 325-3914 Just Blues Apgujeong 02-542-4788 SoundHolic Hongdae SoundHolic Clubs



Hamilton Hotel Fire Station


n Statio


Come to Itaewon’s neighborhood pub!

* Pool * Darts * NFL Football on Demand * Beers on Tap!

Daily Drink Specials Weekday Happy Hour & Food Specials Back room patio/terrace available for private parties & events.

Heineken Hoegaarden Ally Kat Guinness Domestic beers

60 | 10 Magazine November May 2011 2011

Police Station

• NFL Games LIVE! @ 2 am Sunday Nights! • 2 Beer Pong Tables! • Best Nachos in Korea!

Sinchon 02-333-1604 Yaletown Sinchon Great food using only the best ingredients. Owned by a former NHL/NBA sportscaster, games are always on including NFL games, LIVE on Sunday nights starting at 2 am.  02-333-1604 Live Music

이태원 대한민국 Itaewon Station exit 1, pass KFC on the right. Turn right at the 4th alley. 2nd floor of the third building on the left.

Phone: 02-792-2550

KB Bank

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon  02-795-5701 Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) 02-743-5555 Club Evans Hongdae 02-337-8361 Club Palm Hongdae 02-336-9016 Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong 02-549-5490

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul. Answer Cheongdam-dong After a shortlived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. 02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu.  02-3142-5301 Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. 010-9913-3919 Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines


Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158 Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon.   02-512-3798 Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.  02-338-2773 Cafes

Caffé Bene Coffee, gelatos, and waffles are on the menu at the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea.   02-3438-6888 Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here.  02-3461-5680 Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Freshbaked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. 010-9631-2133 Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. koreatraining@  010-8779-1969

Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ 010-8688-9810 Tattoos


top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong.  02-797-1234 Koobar @Blue Spirit Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsadong, Gangnam-gu.  02-518-5115 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu.  02-3143-7573 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd.  02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. 02-3143-7573 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong 02-465-2222  02-3142-4233

Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm. 2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul.  02-336-5698 Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio 070-7504-8090 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center  jetavanacenter@gmail.com02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun  02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French  02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church  02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong  02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog  02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church  02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran  02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Korean Rainbow Christian Fellowship Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian  02-440-9000 New Philadelphia Church 02-706-2501 Onnuri Church  02-793-9686 Presbyterian Church of the Lord 010-2266-6453 Somang Presbyterian  02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church  02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

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GYEONGGI CALENDAR f o odi e f i n d

Art Through November 20th The Heart of Phoenix: Art and Culture of Sharjah Organized to publicize new cultural trends in the Middle East, this exhibition features Sharjah, the cultural capital of the UAE. The exhibit includes 55 old maps, 30 pieces of traditional Arab calligraphy, 15 ceremonial jewels, and more. Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art in Ansan, near Gongdan St. (line 4). 10 am – 7 pm. Free. 031-481-7007 Through November 22nd Gyeonggi World Pottery Biennale: Journey Through Fire Check out a wide range of pottery-themed exhibitions, performances, and more. Events are held at Cerapia in Icheon, Gonjiam Pottery Park in Gwangju, and Ceramic World in Yeoju. Adults W8,000, teens W6,000, children W4,000. One ticket gets you into all three locations. 031-631-6501


Mongolian Food on the Grill and North Koreans in the Kitchen Thick chunks of beef and pork sizzle amongst a mix of vegetables on the giant skillet standing before Chef Dan Kang. You can tell from the aroma that it’s going to be delicious, but you might not know that there is a bigger story behind those flavors. The Seoul City Mongolian Grill (located, confusingly enough, not in Seoul but in Ansan) is bringing attention to more than just unique cuisine; it’s cooking for a cause: helping North Korean refugees learn to run a small business. Run in a joint effort with the Every Nation Church of Korea, the restaurant is part of a larger NGO with the goal of raising awareness about issues facing North Koreans while providing them with opportunities to solve their long-term financial struggles. Kang says that the simplicity of Mongolian-style cooking makes it the perfect cuisine to teach North Korean refugees. It might be simple food, but that doesn’t diminish the flavor. Following the typical Mongolian grill style, it’s a “choose your own adventure” of sorts. Make a selection of protein (chicken, pork, beef, seafood or a combination of two) and then make a trip to the veggie bar. Kang’s advice? Hit it hard and load up on as many vegetables as you can fit in your bowl. Then comes the real fun. Top it off with whatever mix of sauces you like. Make a unique combination of your own or, if you’re not feeling adventurous, follow one of the restaurant’s many menu suggestions. New sauces are added on a regular basis, making the flavor combinations seemingly endless. On this trip, two scoops of Mongolian sauce, a spoonful of sweet chili and a dash of essence of garlic made for a sweet, savory dinner with a spicy kick. Dinner goes for an average of W11,000 per person. Getting There

Located near exit 1 of Jungang Station (line 4). 3rd Floor, Donga Akate Building, Gojan-dong 537-3, Danwon-gu, Ansan-si, Gyeonggi-do. “Seoul City Mongolian Grill” on Facebook. 031-401-9008. Wor ds and shots by C u rt i s F i l e 

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Through November 19th Icheon Art Hall Open Stage The Icheon Art Hall’s little theater lets you enjoy a wide variety of genres of music for only W5,000 a night. 11/3: 7:30 pm; 11/10: 7:30 pm; 11/11: 7:30 pm; 11/17: 7:30 pm; 11/19: 5 pm. 031-644-2100 Through November 30th Kids Invito Concert: Rivalry The Invito Concert series introduces kids to classical compositions by musical rivals. 11/2: Boccherini, Vivaldi, and Pachelbel; 11/9 Mozart vs. Haydn; 11/16 Beethoven vs. Goya; 11/23 Schubert vs. Mendelssohn; 11/30 Chopin vs. Liszt. 10:30 am. W2,000. In Korean. Yongin Culture and Arts Center. 031-324-2098 November 5th Kim Bum-su “Get All Night” Concert Beloved for his ballads, Kim Bum-su is trying to get a little edgier with this fall’s concert series. KINTEX in Ilsan. 7 pm. W88,000 - W110,000. 031-810-8114 Kim Gwang-min and Lee Byeong-u: Acoustic Dream Pianist Kim Gwangmin and acoustic guitarist Lee Byeong-u will present you with a fantastic duet on their respective instruments. Anyang Art Center. 031-687-0500 November 8th Love Duo Piano Concert Iraina Silicanova and Maxim Puryzhinskiy, winners of the International Schubert Competition for Duets, will be performing in Korea for the first time. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 031-828-5841 Romantic Guitar Quartet The guitar quartet from the Suwon Guitar Ensemble will be performing famous classical and pop pieces as arranged for four guitars. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 7:30 - 9 pm. W10,000. 031-230-3313

Family & Community November 8th -11th Korea EV Show New Korean electronic vehicles including cars, motorcycles, and bicycles are going to be exhibited at KINTEX in Ilsan. 031-810-8114

Sport & Fitness November 26th 2011 CBS Love Sharing Marathon 5k, 10k, half, full, to depart from Hanam City Misari Rowing Site at 9 am. W10,000 - W35,000. Register by November 10th. 042-638-1080

Dine & Drink November 3rd - 6th Icheon Rice Cultural Festival Rice. You’d think that three meals a day would be enough for anyone, but the citizens of Icheon obviously think otherwise. Seolbong Park in Icheon. 031-644-4125 November 18th – 20th Paju Jangdan Soybean Festival Paju, northeast of Seoul, boasts some of the best soybeans in the country. Around Imjingak in Paju. 031-644-4125

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm,  031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809 Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province)  031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju 031-576-6051 Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000 Radio

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5 Bars/Lounges/Pubs

The Big Chill Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, Dublin Bar Bundang Open mic every Wednesday at 9 pm 031-708-7942 Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store.  031-262-9974 The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group  010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Booze Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group  032-323-0161 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am.  031-917-2225 Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang General open mic every 3rd Friday of the month at 11pm.  010-7754-0409

GANGWON CALENDAR f o odi e f i n d

Theater & Dance Ongoing Gangneung Gwanno Mask Dance This mask dance is inspired by the gwanno, slaves during the Joseon Dynasty. Ojukheon, Gangneung Municipal Museum, and Gyeongpo Beach. Sat 3 pm - 4 pm, Sun 11 am - 12 pm. 033-643-1301

gangwon PROVINCE Hotels/Accommodations

Gangneung Nongak (Farm Music) Head to Dano Park and Gyeongpo Beach every Saturday to listen to nongak, Korea’s traditional farm music. 5 pm. 033-642-4470 The Manic Show: Comedy and Magic In this joint performance by magician Choi Hyeon-u and comedian Jo Wonseok, thrill at the magic tricks will have to compete with laughter at the gags. Gangwon Tour Pension in Jeongseongun. Held every Saturday and Sunday at 7 pm. W20,000. 1544-1555

The Dalk Galbi of Your Dreams

Through November 27th Arirang Music Theatre Every 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th, you can experience Korea’s history through folk songs including Arirang. Jeongseon Cultural Art Center. 4:40 pm. 033-560-2548


Hotel Inter-Burgo Wonju  033-766-8000 W Hotel Wonju  033-742-5454

Foreigner Assistance

November 5th Namjin in Concert In the disco-meetsmariachi genre of Korean music generally known as trot, there can only be one true legend, and that is Namjin. Baeckryung Art Center at Kangwon University. 033-250-7200 November 18th - 19th Lee Mun-se in Concert Popular singer Lee Mun-se, best known for his hit “Red Dawn,” will be bringing his passion and talent to Chuncheon. Baeckryung Art Center at Kangwon University. 033-250-7200 November 26th

Crying Nut

A Special Musical Tour: The Moment When You Need Music Have fun at Ilsong Art Hall at Hallim University in Chuncheon with top Korean indie bands Zia, Crying Nut, and Galaxy Express. 6 pm. W27,500. 1544-1555 Korean Diva Lee Eun-mi in Concert Lee Eun-mi, also known as “the barefoot Korean diva,” will be holding a concert in Wonju. Wonju Baekun Art Hall. 4 & 8 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. 1688-8616

Chuncheon Online Info

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon  033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon 033-262-2078

Museums Arari Puppet House Jeongseon  033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu  033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol 033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong  033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung  033-644-9411 Ilhyun Art Museum Yangyang 033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang 033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon 033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho 033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho 033-636-3680 Wonju Hanji Museum Wonju  033-734-4739

Getting There

Chuncheon is well-connected by train and bus to all major Korean cities. The recent expansion of the Jungang subway line makes it particularly easy, though timeconsuming, for Seoulites to reach. From Chuncheon Station, it’s a short taxi ride to Dalk-Galbi Street. Kim’s restaurant, Chuncheon Jungang Galbi (, is near the end of the street. 

Wor ds and shots by C u rt i s F i l e

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November 26th – 27th Giselle: The Ballet The Korean National Ballet Troupe is going to perform Giselle in Chuncheon. Chuncheon Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W20,000. 033-251-3474

Kim He-Jong’s hands move with seasoned precision as she folds together a sizzling mixture of cabbage, tteok (떡, rice cake), and chicken in the hot iron skillet before her. A restaurateur and owner on Chuncheon’s famous Dalk Galbi Street, she is a second-generation master, and the secrets of the dish have been passed down from her mother. From the first bite it’s obvious that time has been spent perfecting the dish. Chuncheon dalk galbi (닭갈비), and Kim’s style in particular, is simply set to a different standard. Only young, local poultry is used, making the cuts of meat soft and succulent. You won’t find anything pre-packaged or frozen anywhere on the street. But what really sets these restaurants apart, even from competitors in Chuncheon, are the marinades. “Everyone wants to be the best on the street,” says Kim. “We compete and we keep our recipes a secret.” Most of those secrets have been kept for the decades since dalk galbi’s invention in the late 1960s. Back then, it was a cheap anju (안주, food eaten with alcohol) that was popular among soldiers and university students, earning it the nickname “commoners’ galbi.” Over the years the dish has evolved, though, and its present-day form could be called anything but common. Less sugary than what one typically finds in Seoul and other major cities, Kim’s particular brand of marinade creates a balance to the dish unmatched by large chains. While the punch of the gochujang (고추장, red pepper paste) is strong enough to awaken your sweat glands, it does so without overwhelming the freshness of the other ingredients. But even if Chuncheon isn’t within easy reach, don’t fret: she ships to other cities at an average price of W25,000 for a two-person serving.

korean desti nation

Check Out Cheonan W o r ds by S ta c e y S i e b r i t z

Hop on the KTX to experience the sight-seeing and nightlife of this South Chungcheong city. I first moved to Cheonan, a city less than an hour’s KTX ride south of Seoul, in 2007. Back then, it was home to a small, tightly knit foreigner community, and the closest thing we had to global cuisine was the twenty-four McDonalds. Since then, the city’s social scene has gone from strength to strength along with the rapidly increasing foreigner population, which has tripled in the last five years. Day t i m e d o i n g s


1 4



Cheonan offers much more than the average expat party scene. For the history buffs among you, there is Independence Hall (041-1330), which focuses on the independence movement during the Japanese colonization and boasts the largest exhibition facility in Korea. In addition, the adjoining city of Asan is home to the beautiful Hyeonchung Shrine (, which is dedicated to Admiral Yi Sun-sin, as well as lush greenery, sparkling koi ponds and beautiful gardens. During the warmer months, a trip to Cheonan would not be complete without a visit to the famous bronze Buddha at Gakwon Temple. It sits regally at the base of Taejo Mountain, which has excellent trails for a relaxing afternoon hike. Hiking is a popular pasttime in these parts – the Cheonan Asan Mountaineers (or CAM) hiking group organizes local hikes with like-minded folks. Search for “Cheonan Asan Mountaineers” on Facebook for more information. After the sun sets

Of course, if you’re more of a night owl than a day-tripper, there’s still plenty to do. Start exploring the bar scene at the recently opened Dolce Bar (041-565-5863), conveniently located mere minutes from the Cheonan train station. The lively bar manager Louis Jong-hyeok Lee works tirelessly organizing entertainment, with new events all the time. Step through the doors and you could find yourself at a salsa night, rock night, or 1 Bronze Buddha at Gakwon Temple by Colin Strand, 2 Independence Hall by Sarah Thompson, 3 Dolce Bar by Louis Jong Hyeok Lee, 4 Independence Hall by Sarah Thompson Next Page Shopping mall: Galleria

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endary Dono Marcos (041-553-4554), a tiny but exquisite Italian restaurant. The head chef spent time studying Italian cuisine in Italy, and it shows. The fettuccine manzo (flat noodles with sautéed beef and vegetables in a rich, creamy sauce) is particularly decadent and delicious. Be sure to book ahead as it fills up quickly at dinnertime. Further along the same street is the excellent Riposos (041-523-2390), another fine ristorante with a more extensive pizza menu. Tre formaggio, gorgonzola, and prosciutto are just a few of the available toppings. Even better, every order includes a free soup, salad and dessert. If you’d rather eat in than eat out, be sure to drop by the new Galleria, opposite Cheonan-Asan KTX station. It offers not only a top quality shopping experience, with plenty of high end brands and bargain fashion, but also an impressive range of international fare and hard-to-find items in the grocery department. Foodies and shopaholics alike are sure to be impressed.

80s party. One of the most popular events is the weekly Brew and View, a night where a popular film is selected and watched— with a corresponding drinking game. Across town and tucked away in the side streets of the bustling downtown district is the popular and somewhat suggestively named Banana Bar. Run by the friendly Mr. Oh, this lively basement bar boasts the occasional band night, as well as a weekly open mic night, where talented locals are encouraged to come out and strut their stuff. Search for “Banana Bar - Cheonan, South Korea” on Facebook. Fun for foodies

Bars and buddhas aside, the city is also home to some excellent eateries. For terrific Thai, try the phenomenal Baan Thai (041-545-9797), located on the outskirts of the neighboring city of Asan. If it’s curry that you crave, the Indian restaurant Mount Fishtail (041-555-3612), just a few steps from Cheonan train station, will more than meet your needs. Cheonan also offers an abundance of fine Italian restaurants. In the downtown area, opposite the shopping behemoth that is Shinsegae Department Store, is the leg-

easily reached by regular buses, trains and KTX trains from all over the country. And with so much to see and do, one could easily spend a weekend or two exploring the city and all that it has to offer. Why not head to Cheonan soon, and see what all the fuss is about?

I n t h e m i dd l e o f e v e ry t h i n g

Thanks to its central location in South Chungcheong Province and well-connected transportation system, Cheonan can be



November 8th

Through November 6th Gongju International Art Festival Around 500 artists from the US, China, Japan, and other countries will be taking part in the region’s biggest art expo. Limlip Art Musium. 10 am - 6 pm. 041-856-7749 Through November 20th Inter-Local 2011: East Asia Network This exhibition illustrates how globalization has shifted the focus from international cooperation to interaction between smaller locales separated by vast distances. Daejeon Museum of Art. Free 042-255-4700 Through December 11th Eternal Dream Exhibit Learn how people lived in China 2,000 years ago through these 100 artifacts from the Han Dynasty. Asia Museum in Daejeon. W6,000 - W10,000. 042-863-0055

Performances Through November 4th Daydreams of the Laughing Teacher, Yeonam: The Play This play draws upon the life and works of late Joseon writer Yeonam to critique the hypocrisy and foolishness of then and now. Wed - Fri: 7:30 pm, Sat: 3 & 7 pm, Sun: 3 pm. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. W25,000. 042-934-9394 November 5th A Special Music Tour: The Moment When You Need Music This concert brings some of Korea’s top indie artists to the Gongju Culture and Arts Center: Deli Spice, Guckkasten, and Lim Jeonghui. 7 pm. W27,500. 1544-1555

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Daejeon International Community Center  042-223-0789 Daejeon

Classes Concert with Europa Galante Featuring Ian Bostridge World class baroque ensemble Europa Galante is joined by tenor Ian Bostridge at the Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W70,000. 042-610-2222

Sport & Fitness November 27th The 3rd Dangjin Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon, to depart from the Dangjin Sports Complex in Dangjin-gun at 10 am. W30,000. Sign up by November 16th. 031-919-2246 December 18th Junmahyup Chungju Musimchun Marathon 5k, 19k, half, and full marathon, to depart from Musimchun Sports Park in Chungju at 9 am. W10,000 - W35,000. Register by December 1st. 042-638-1080

Dine & Drink Geunsam Ginseng Festival They may be bitter, but the twisted roots known as ginseng have some serious health benefits. Located in Geumsan, just south of Daejeon. 041-750-2412

Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. 043-733-0978

Entertainment O-World Amusement Park Daejeon 042-580-4820 Kumdori Land Daejeon 042-862-4000

Religious Service Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691 Sanseong Church Daejeon 042-585-8111

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan  041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862 Golden Wave Taean  041-675-2008

Museums Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju 043-855-7333

Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island 041-670-2337 Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun 043-539-3850 Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: 041-337-5877

Medical Services Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan  041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju  043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.  043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju  010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon 043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,  010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook,  042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook.  042-825-4157 042-471-3373 Sponge Daejeon

Live Music Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong  042-841-0470 Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117

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JEOLLA CALENDAR Art Through November 6th Great Masters of Art After Impressionism This exhibition will feature more than 110 pieces by 47 artists including Manet, Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Warhol, and others. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. W8,000. 062-510-0149 Joseph Beuys “Everyone Is an Artist” Exhibit Featuring 362 pieces by famous German artist Joseph Beuys. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am – 6 pm. W8,000. 062-510-0149

Herbs, Mountains and Bubbles: Spa Day

Theater & Dance November 7th - 8th Ta-Rak Train: Nonverbal Performance The three movements of “Ta” (Strike) “Rak” (Pleasure) and “Yeolcha” (Train) give the Fantastick Troupe plenty of opportunity to show off their percussion prowess. Ariul Art Hall in front of the 33 Center at the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan. W5,000 063-254-4621

disc ov ery


Metal Bubble Therapy and Fire Harmony Therapy are some of the funky herbal treatments awaiting you at Jinan Red Ginseng Spa. The incredible peaks of Mai Mountain pull a lot of people to Jinan County, just east of Jeonju. But those more interested in pampering than panting will want to visit the Jinan Red Ginseng Spa (진안홍삼스파). This bathing suit-required, co-ed spa takes ginseng to the next level, as all the water in the spa is infused with it. Even the soap in the bathrooms is made of the locally grown herb. However, what really makes this spa unique is how the entire spa is organized around themes of positive and negative energy and the five elements. Consider Metal Bubble Therapy, a playful ginseng-infused foam bath with plenty of herbal goodness (and without the nonsense of college foam parties). Or try Fire Harmony Therapy, where you relax in a sauna while wearing a self-applied mud mask. In the negative-sound floating room, calmly float with your head dipped back in the pool and listen to the soft sounds of classical music wafting through the water. Other therapies include a wind room, wood and herb therapy, hydro-aroma therapy, positive-bathing pools and stone therapy. The spa even features a rooftop terrace with reclining chairs and hot tubs from which you can admire the beautiful peaks of Mai Mountain. This area makes for a relaxing day trip with a significant other or bonding time with close friends. Or check into the in-house hotel if you’re just too relaxed to go home at the end of the day. One tip: eat near the bus terminal before your spa day, as food options in the single in-house café are few and overpriced. Another tip: don’t shave prior to entering the waters. Ginseng and open pores don’t mix very well. Getting There

Grab an intercity bus from Jeonju to the Jinan terminal. From there a quick ride on either a local bus or taxi will take you to the spa and back. 743 Danyang-ri, Jinan-eup, Jinan-gun, Jeollabuk-do. Wor ds and shot by Ba run Sa r ka r 063-433-0393

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November 18th - 19th Giselle: The Ballet The National Ballet Troupe will be performing this piece, which is representative of 19th century French romanticism. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 061-749-3516 November 26th We Loved: The Dance Experience the past, present and future through beautiful and lyrical dancing. Sori Art Center of Jeollabuk-do. 6 pm. 063-270-8000

Concerts November 3rd A Journey through Russian Music Featuring pianist Dorian Leljak performing pieces by Rachmaninoff and Shostakovich. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W7,000 - W10,000. 063-281-2748 November 4th Yang Seong-won Trio “Owon” Cellist Yang Seong-won, pianist Emmanuel Strosser and violinist Olivier Charlier are performing together. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - W50,000. 063-270-8000 November 11th Special Musical Journey Featuring Korean indie groups Zia, Crying Nut and Guckkasten. 5-18 Memorial Culture Center in Gwangju. 7:30 pm. W27,500. 062-376-5197 November 15th Four Men’s Story of Germany Cellist Kim Gi-yong plays pieces by Schumann, Brahms and Beethoven. Sori Art Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W20,000 1588-7890 November 24th Yuhki Kuramoto Concert This mustsee concert shows the Japanese new age artist at his finest with songs such as “Shape of Love,” “Second Romance,” and “Promenade.” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W30,000 - 100,000 02-587-7082

Family & Community Through November 6th Ten Million Chrysanthemum Blossom Festival Plenty of photogenic flowers to keep your shutter finger busy. Jungang

Sports Park in Iksan. 063-859-4331 Through November 16th Jindo Chrysanthemum Culture and Art Festival The chrysanthemum is one of autumn’s most beautiful flowers. Jindo Local Culture Center. 061540-6172 November 16th - 20th Gunsan World Migratory Bird Festival As many as 50 species of migratory birds pause on their journey at Geumgang Lake, located between Gunsan-gun and Seocheon-si. Catch birds on the wing (and in the bush) at Geumgang Migratory Bird Observatory. W2,000. 063-453-7213

Sport & Fitness December 11th Namwon Chunhyang Marathon 5k, 10k, and half marathon, to depart from Namwon Chunhyang-gol Sports Park at 10 am. W10,000 - W30,000. Register by November 25th. 032-638-1080

JEOLLA PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Gwangju International Center  062-226-2733 Gwangju Blog Inside Jeonju The Jeonju Hub

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan 0 63-851-4311 Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel  062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju  062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju  FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan  AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.  062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group,  011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.  019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean.  018-607-6321 Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong.  011-9444-9609 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.  010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, 061-724-2234

Ad space donated by 10 Magazine

Jeon-buk Women's Associations United (JWAU ) About JWAU JWAU is an umbrella organization composed of 8 organizations, striving to achieve gender equality, democracy, and peaceful reunification in the Korean peninsula by facilitating cooperation and collective actions among different women's groups. Since its establishment in 1988, JWAU has worked legal and institutional systems and carry out advocacy movements at the policy level regarding a range of issues concerning women, and movements related with women workers, political and economic justice, democracy, peace etc. JWAU is a non-profit organization. Make a donation of money, office supplies, computers, clothing or food. You will be registered as a supporter and can receive newsletters and other materials. You will also be invited to various JWAU events.

To make a donation, please use the name / account number below. Bank : Nong hyup ( ) Account Name : Jeon-buk Women's Associations United ( ) Account Number : 511- 01- 127596


involved with the following activities

Center for Prostitutor's Rights (an attached organ of JWAU)

Activities to achieve womenoriented laws

Activities to promote women's political power

Activities for network to strengthen the solidarity with other NGO

Activities for women's policies

For more information, please call or write us at the following

Tel. (82) 63-287-3459(3460) Fax. (82) 63-287-1226

Homepage _ E-Mail _ FACEBOOK _ ADDRESS _ 331-16, Seoseohak-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeonbuk. KOREA

GYEONGSANG calendar Vinyl Underground at KSU

e di t or’ s p ick

Art Ongoing “Thinking of A Good House” Exhibit This exhibition is divided into three sections: Make Your Home, Picture Your Life, and Envision Your Garden. Clayarch Gimhae Art Gallary. 055-340-7000 Through November 27th American Chambers: Post 90s American Art Art pieces of 20 contemporary American artists will be exhibited. The exhibit includes not only pictures and photos but also cyber art and performance art. Gyeongnam Art Museum in Changwon. 10 am - 6 pm. Adults W1,000, minors W700, children W500. 055-211-0333

The Music Is Alive in Busan

Through November 30th Dalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that is held every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. 1330

he live music scene in Busan is constantly flowing with awesome Korean and international acts. According to one of our Reader’s 10 polls, two of the top ten expat bands in Korea are Busan-based: Poko Lambro and One Drop East. So whether you’re looking to be entertained or want to show off your own talent, here are some venues worth checking out.

Through December 11th Monet to Warhol Masterpieces on loan from the Saint-Etienne Museum of Modern Art are now being exhibited at Busan City Art Gallery ( ). Pieces on display include pieces from Andy Warhol, Roy Liechtenstein, and Claude Monet, amongst others. The gallery is open from 10 am to 8 pm and admission is W11,000. 모네에서워홀까지.com 051-746-2970


KSU is home to some of the best music venues in the city, including Vinyl Underground, which will host the upcoming Busan Live Battle of the Bands. Last year, Korean celtic-rock band, Nachopupa, put on an incredible show to win. Come check out some of Busan’s best musicians as they compete for your vote this year. While in the area, be sure to catch a show at Monk, one of the country’s oldest jazz clubs. Nearby Ol’55 also presents plenty of live shows and a weekly open mic.

K y u n g s u n g U n i v e r s i t y ( K SU )


has live music happening t h r o u g h o u t t h e we e k . Well-established venues like The Basement, Crossroads and Soul Trane all host lots of great shows as well as regular open mic nights. For aspiring musicians, these open mics are a great opportunity to perform and meet new people.

This popular university area

Crossroads at PNU

P u s a n N at i o n a l U n i v e r s i t y ( PNU )

T he scene i n Haeundae includes expat favor ites Shark y’s and Starface, which both feature weekend shows and solid food menus. The new spot on the scene, Billie Jean’s, offers live tunes, plenty of dancing room, and noraebang (private singing) rooms for greater control of the tunes.


For details on upcoming events: • Allive Korea (Busan Live) on Facebook • BetterMagic MusicCo on Facebook • Busan Haps Events Calendar For directions to all the venues: Busan Haps Nightlife Venues Wor ds and shots by K r i st i na Pa rc homc h u k

68 | 10 Magazine November 2011

November 10th – 14th Daegu Art Fair This is the fourth time this local cultural event has been held this year. EXCO in Daegu. 11 am - 8 pm (5 pm on the 14th). Adults W8,000, teens W6,000. 053-421-4774

Theater & Dance Ongoing Korean Music and Dance in Busan Performances take place every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. 051-811-0040

Miso II: Shilla, Land of the Gods Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Dynasty, hosts Miso II: Silla, Land of the Gods,” a non-verbal performance produced by the same creative team that brought us Miso. The show illustrates the thousand-year history of Silla with age-old Korean dance and music. Held at the Expo Cultural Center of the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. 7 pm. Closed Mon. W20,000 – W50,000. 054-740-3800 November 4th - 5th Acrobatic Faust Director Gisili Garðarsson and Vestruport worked together on this adaptation of Faust, the novel by the great German writer Goethe. Unlike most shows, this one will be taking place in midair. Gyeongnam Culture & Arts Center in Changwon. Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 1544-1555 Drawing Show: Nonverbal Performance The drawing process can itself become

a performance. Be prepared to see a variety of different styles of drawings. Held at the Ulju Culture & Arts Center in Ulsan. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 4 pm. W20,000. 052-248-3271 November 12th - 13th Jump: Nonverbal Performance In this comic non-verbal performance, two petty thieves learn that the family they are trying to rob are a bunch of martial arts maniacs. W33,000 - 55,000. Gyeongbuk Culture Center for Students in Pohang. W33,000 - W55,000. 053-762-0000

Concerts November 1st Hui-a Lee’s Piano Concert Find out how Hui-a Lee, who only has four fingers, can play such beautiful piano music. Gumi Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. 1688-5954 November 5th YB Band in Concert Yundohyun Band is having a concert under the theme of youth with Korean nu metal band Pia. Pohang Gym. 6 pm. W77,000 - W99,000. 1577-3850 November 12th - 13th

Leessang in Concert Hiphop warriors Gary and Gil will be having a concert at Yeungnam University’s Chunma Arts Center. Fri 7 pm, Sat 5 pm. W77,000 - W88,000. 1599-2005 November 16th

Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra Russian conductor Yuri Simonov and his orchestra will be performing violin concertos by Tchaikovsky and Mendelssohn. This is a rare chance to catch the famous Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra. Gumi Arts Center. W50,000 - W120,000. 7:30 pm. 054-451-3040 November 20th Lee Sungchul Unplugged Live Concert Korean rocker Lee Sungchul will be joined by a rock band, brass section and even a chamber orchestra. Dongchun Stadium in Ulsan. 7 pm. W66,000 - W110,000. 1599-2005 Special Musical Journey: The Moment When You Need Music Have fun at Yeongnam University Arts Center with top Korean musicians. At this concert, you can see Deli Spice, Guckkasten and Lim Jeong Hee. 6 pm. W27,500. 1544-1555 November 26th Boohwal “Crossroad” Concert These Korean rockers have been entertaining crowds for decades. Andong Gymnasium. 7 pm. W55,000 - W88,000. 1661-4248

Kim Kyung Ho in Concert MBC Hall in Changwon. 4 pm, 7:30 pm. W77,000 - W88,000. 1599-0701 November 29th Pianist Virtuoso: Franz Liszt Performing pieces by 19th century Hungarian composer and pianist Liszt including Hungarian Rhapsody, Rigoletto, and Liebestraum. Gumi Arts Center. 7:30 pm. 070-8833-8951

Education & Conferences Through November 6th

Gyeongsang Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for Int’l Activities 051-668-7900 Geoje Foreign Resident Association 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online

Gyeongju Club Metal Boys metalboys 011-9599-8370

Clubs Daegu Club That Located on the rodeo just down from the Samdok fire station. 053-427-7171

Old Skool Hip hop bar great for dancing, socializing or drinking. “Old SkooL: Daegu Muzik Club Bar” on Facebook. Busan Elune Lots of international acts. Paradise Hotel  010-5525-4055 Maktum Club dancing, events, launching shows, sports parties. 9 pm – 6 am., 051-742-0770 NEO Starface “Latin Club” Free salsa classes weekdays from 8 pm. Saturdays boast a live band and/or DJs. Haeundae. 051-746-1746 Vinyl Underground Delivers fresh breaks, house, funk, electro, tech house, hip hop. B2 Han La Building. 9 pm - 6 am.  051-628-0223

Radio Stations TBS eFM Busan  FM 90.5 American Forces Network Jinhae  AM 1512 / FM 88.5 Daegu AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Pohang  AM 1512 Waegwan  AM 1080 / FM 88.5 Tong: Haein Art Project Though most visitors make the trek to Haein Temple to see the famous Tripitaka Koreana (81,258 woodblocks on which are written the Buddhist scriptures), this fall the temple is hosting an exciting contemporary art exhibit. 055-934-3175

Sports & Fitness November 10th – 13th G-Star: Global Game Exhibition Arcade games, board games, and video games. BEXCO in Busan. 02-3153-1114 November 20th The 9th Gyeongsan Samgsunghyun Marathon 10k, half, full marathon to depart from Gyeongsan Namchun Riverside at 9 am. W25,000. Register by November 11th. 010-8648-4789 November 25th – 27th Daegu Golf Expo Is it time to pick up a new putter? This golf bonanza will open at EXCO in Daegu. 11 am - 6 pm. 031-782-1500

December 4th Pohang Homi-Cape Marathon Half and full marathon, to depart from Homi-Cape Square in Pohang at 10 am. W35,000. Register by November 10th. 010-5027-2815 December 11th The 9th Gyeongsan Namchun Marathon 10k, half, full marathon, to depart from Gyeongsan Namchun Riverside at 9 am. W25,000. Register by November 25th. 010-8646-4789

Dine & Drink November 17th – 20th Busan International Tea & Craft Fair You might be forgiven for not noticing tea with all of the coffee consumption and soju guzzling that happens here. This expo is your chance to see what you’ve been missing. BEXCO in Busan. W3,000. 051-740-7705

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.  Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com  010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel  051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador  051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador  053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina  051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am.  051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well.  011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.  051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070 Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right on Haeundae Beach.  051-746-7913 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. 053-422-7708 Jinju Soundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden., 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)


December 4th The 7th Yangsan Marathon 5k, half, and full marathon, to depart from Yangsan Sports Complex at 9 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Sign up by November 7th. 055-282-1555

Medical Services Centum Eco Clinic Busan Reliable medical care from a doctor specializing in ENT, internal medicine and pediatrics. Located in the shopping center of the Centum Park Apartments in Haeundaegu, Busan.  051-731-1522

Live Music Venues Busan Club Interplay interplaycafe 051-517-4773 Daegu Club Heavy  010-2338-1340

10 Magazine November 2011 | 69


f o odi e f i n d

Through November 20th “Junk Art” Exhibit How to dispose of waste has become a big problem these days, especially in major cities. The pieces in this exhibit show how junk can become art. Jeju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W1,000, teens W500, children W300. 064-710-4300 Through November 27th Creation & Parody Exhibit Creation begins with imitation. By appreciating these imitations, you can think about how their meanings are different from the original works of art. 9 am - 6 pm. Adults W1,000, teens W500, children W300. 064-710-4300

Performances Ongoing

each year at Moseulpo Port, this festival focuses on the bangeo (yellowtail), a delicious fish that is often served raw. 064-794-8032 November 11th - 13th Jeju Tangerine Festival A symbol of Jeju Island, the tangerine harvest usually begins in November. 064-710-3191

Sport & Fitness November 9th - 12th Jeju Olle Walking Festival As you walk along the Olle Trail, you will have time to appreciate the natural beauty of Jeju Island. The walk follows Jeju Olle trails 6, 7, 8, and 9. 8 am - 5 pm. ollewalking. 064-762-2190 December 2nd - 5th 2011 Jeju 4-Full Marathon Four marathons will be held on four consecutive days, departing from Jeju Sports Complex at 9 am from 12/2 to 12/4 and at 7:30 am on 12/5. W30,000 W120,000. Sign up by November 18th. 042-638-1080


A Taste of Italy in Jeju Sometimes authentic Italian pizza can be found in the most surprising of places, like the back streets of Jeju City. It seems that one thing all expats can agree on missing from home is a good slice of pizza. Whether it’s the over-sized, thin-crusted New Yorker, the deep-dished Chicagoan or the fruity Californian that you crave, Korean pizza topped with corn, sweet potatoes and cabbage just doesn’t do it. Unless you can find your way to Dalgrak Italian Stove Pizza in ShinJeju, that is. A journey off the beaten path will lead you to the cozy, deliciously scented atmosphere of Dalgrak Pizza, where you can enjoy a selection of their eight thin-crust pizzas, calzones, and newest addition, pastas. You can also indulge your tastes with a pre-meal salad, a nice wine, an array of imported beers, and an after-dinner coffee. Choices include a basic margherita (topped with the perfect pesto), gorgonzola with a side of honey for dipping (a strange but scrumptious combination—don’t be afraid to try it!), and a prosciutto that makes you feel like you’re eating in an Italian pizzeria. If you want to get some different flavors on your palate, branch out and try the stunning rucola topped with fresh greens or the diabola that has a zesty spice to accompany the prosciutto and ham. No matter which entrées you decide on (and you should opt for several, since the pizzas will go quickly), you’ll be delighted with Dalgrak. And just in case the pizza alone isn’t enough to draw you in, stop by to see the unique dining atmosphere, a mixture of rustic and artistic. With cast iron and wood, the décor accents the authenticity of the pizzas and every seat in the house gives you a view of them being pulled from the stone oven. Getting There

Dalgrak Italian Stove Pizza (달그락 화덕피자집) is located in southwest Jeju City. 748-3 Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. 064-713-7483

70 | 10 Magazine November 2011

Wor ds and shots by M a ry R ager

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic performance shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holiday 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. 064-749-0550

Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Theme Park

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. 1544-1555 Through December 5th Ryu “Artcal” Get ready for a creative performance that brings together Korean dance and traditional martial arts for a hybrid of art and musical called an “artcal.” Convention Hall at Jeju Tourism College in North Jeju. 2 & 5 pm. 60 min. W20,000 W30,000. 064-759-1214 November 16th Kim Cheol-ung in Concert Kim Cheolung was born in North Korea in 1975. After graduating university in Pyongyang, he continued his study as a pianist at the Moscow Conservatory. In 2001, he crossed the 38th parallel to find the freedom that he always wanted. Jeju University Aramuse Hall. 2 pm. Free. 064-754-2055

Dine & Drink November 4th - 7th Choenamdan Bangeo Festival Held

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward is the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jejusi, Jeju-do. 064-782-9266

Bars/Lounges/Pubs Boris Brewery The brewer at the successful Modern Time Brewpub has opened up another shop with beer and Spanish sangria based on a 30-year-old recipe. 064-726-4141 Bull’s Darts Bar As the name suggests, they’ve got five dart boards, a variety of games, and even a women’s dart league. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-759-5559 Modern Time With locations at Grand Hotel Sageori and City Hall, this microbrewery provides beer lovers with some of the best homemade ales in Korea. 064-748-4180

NETWORKING CALENDAR E dited by J i s u n M o o n and dav i d ca rru t h

This photo provided from FC Seou


Photos taken by Eungyu Choi and Kathy Lim at the 10 Magazine booth at the 2nd Expat’s Festival, held on September 24th at Seoul World Cup Stadium.

Tuesday, November 1st ANZA Melbourne Cup Luncheon Prizes will be awarded for best-dressed (men and women) and most fabulous hats. Race time at 1:01 pm, sweeps close at 12:40 sharp. Grand Hyatt Seoul. 11:30 am. Non-members W125,000, members W105,000. Book your seat at  Thursday, November 3rd BASS Catch-up Coffee Held at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Cafe located on the ground floor of Fraser Suites in Insadong. 10 am - 12 pm.  SIWA Newcomers Meeting Take advantage of this chance to get to know more about the city of Seoul and SIWA. 10:30 am at M-Plaza Seoul Global Cultural Center, 5th floor. Free. RSVP to 

Thursday, November 10th AustCham Business Awards Gala Dinner AustCham Korea will be announcing the finalists of the AustCham Year of Friendship Business Awards 2011. The Ballroom at Grand Hyatt Seoul. Cocktails from 6:30, dinner from 7 pm. W140,000. RSVP at  FKCCI Café du Commerce and BASS Ladies Night Out Join the Café de Commerce networking event in an informal and French atmosphere. This month, BASS mem-

Tuesday, November 15th SIWA 33rd Annual SIWA Bazaar As SIWA’s major yearly fundraiser, the bazaar has brought in over 2 billion won during its 33-year history and benefits more than 30 Korean charities. Conference Center in Grand Hilton Hotel. 9:30 am - 3 pm. Entrance fee W10,000.  Friday, November 18th AWC Annual Second Hand Rose Fashion Show There are some great deals to be found at this annual event, held in partnership with the Second Hand Rose Thrift Shop. 9:30 am at Hallasan Room in Seoul Club. Details TBA.  Saturday, November 19th St. Andrew’s Ball: Dinner Dance & Breakfast Presented by the St. Andrew’s Society of Seoul. Grand Hyatt Seoul. Starts at 7 pm and continues until the early morning. Individuals W130,000, table of ten W1,170,000. Dance practices held at Broughton’s Club every Wednesday from 7:30 - 9 pm. Cost W5,000 per person. For both tickets and practices, RSVP to in advance.  Sunday, November 20th Pieroth Wines and AWC in World’s Largest Wine Tasting Raise some money for charity and have some fun while you’re at it. Pieroth Wines is participating in this worldwide event with the goal of making it into the Guinness

Book of World Records. Korea’s time slot is 8 pm, but you’ll want to show up by 6:30 pm. High Street Market in Itaewon. Details TBA.

Tuesday, November 22nd BASS Christmas Fair Get a head start on your Christmas shopping. BASS has invited a wide variety of vendors along with a BASS nearnew donated items table. Hallasan Room at Seoul Club. 10 am - 12 pm. Member W10,000, non-members W14,000 includes coffee & refreshments.,  Wednesday, November 30th SIWA Working Women Network This women-only event is held the last Wednesday of every month. For more information, contact  Friday, December 2nd AWC Holiday Pantry Party Join AWC’s first annual Pampered Chef party for premier brand kitchen cookware, utensils, gadgets, and specialty sauces and spices. USA cake mixes, frosting, and baking items are also available for purchase at great prices. Event held at Itaewon-dong 111-3. 9:30 - 11:30 am. ANZA

Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea AUSTCHAM Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea AWC American Women’s Club BASS British Association of Seoul FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Korea SIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association To list your event, contact David Carruth at or 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine November 2011 | 71


Wednesday, November 9th SIWA Coffee Morning Monthly coffee morning at the Grand Ambassador Hotel. 9:30 - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. 

bers will also be in attendance. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 - 8:45 pm. Visit the website for more details. W26,000. and

Nothing Says Korea

Wor ds by Ada m Boot h e , I llust r ation by Leroy K uci a


hopping sucks. Shopping for someone else is worse. Shopping for people living in other countries is probably the most frustrating way to spend a Saturday afternoon. I never know what to buy because I have no idea what makes other people happy. As I have gotten older, I have abandoned my empathy in an attempt to make my life better. Usually it works, but unfortunately, I still feel obligated to give gifts whenever I travel back home. I would much rather just give cash. Cash is quick, easy, and it fits right in your pocket. You just have to think, “How much is this person worth to me?” Twenty bucks later, problem solved. But cash doesn’t cut it as a souvenir. Cash doesn’t start conversations or clutter up bookshelves. When you give someone a souvenir, there is an obligation to represent a place and a people. That’s the problem with shopping for souvenirs: nothing says Korea. I know where to go, but never know what to buy. As I walk the aisles of street vendors, everything I pick up is too silly, too tacky, too plain, or just completely inaccurate. Goofy tribal masks do not sum up what I know about Korea. So, what is the point of giving someone a souvenir? Am I trying to enlighten or entertain? I have come to the conclusion that most people don’t want the truth. People don’t want the similarities between Korea and their own country to be pointed out. They don’t want to know that Seoul has a downtown that rivals most major US cities. They don’t want to know about the modernity, the Western influence, the amazingly convenient infrastructure and everything else that came along with Korea’s economic boom. Instead, people want their own beliefs reaffirmed. In general, we still want to think of faraway places as exotic and so very dif72 | 10 Magazine November 2011

ferent from what we are accustomed to. Exotic is exciting, and exciting is good. This is achieved by highlighting the small differences. They want the masks, the old-looking scrolls, and the kitschy statues that can start conversations. An accurate representation of Korea is not interesting because it is not much different than most Western countries. Accuracy doesn’t do much to decorate a refrigerator. In this way, giving souvenirs isn’t supposed to provide insight into a new culture. It is instead meant to help a person understand their own culture. Showing the distinctions between two places helps define each one more concretely. Without this distinction, everything is just too similar. When the lines are blurred, it takes much more effort to really understand a place or a people. Effort. Who wants that? Not me, and not most people I know. And remember, I’m working with about twenty bucks per person. With that kind of budget, it’s hard to achieve cultural enlightenment and expect change. My friends and family back home need a good reference point of what my life is like here. Skype sessions and Facebook photos can’t really describe my daily life. There is a disconnect. I basically know what they are doing, but they don’t really get what is happening here. I want a souvenir to capture it all succinctly so that I can present it to them and say “See? Get it now?” I might be expecting too much from a glorified flea market. Perhaps I’m going about it backwards. Instead of exporting Seoul, I should be thinking of bringing them here. In a moment of brilliance or defeat, depending on your worldview, I grab a handful of postcards and bring them to the clerk. On each card, I scrawl my message for the people back home: Wish you were here.

10 Magazine November 2011  
10 Magazine November 2011  

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