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Art • Theater • Concerts • Film • Community • Fitness • Dine & Drink • Nightlife • TRAVEL

Korea awaits! • august 2010 VOL. 2 NO. 11

외국인의 한국생활 노하우

Korean Visa Secrets Where’s Wando? iPhone Map Apps German Dining at Bärlin

Journey to

Cambodia Tons of fun events in our nationwide calendar!

Printed using 100% soy ink.

08 Stats and Blogs

See the number of expats in Korea and read about the most famous English-language blog.

10 Hongdae Free Market

It’s not free, but this market has your weekly quota of cute, kitsch, and creative..

12 Cafés on the Han River

Enjoy stunning views and refreshing drinks at these cafés built on Han River bridges.

16 Kjell Kollin, Banyan Tree Executive Chef Banyan Tree guests benefit from Chef Kollin’s love of Southeast Asian cuisine.

20 Keith Haring Retrospective

Pop artist Haring’s bright images clash with his dark vision of human experience.

22 Who’s Afraid of Korean Visas? Learn how to stop worrying and love the visa with 10’s immigration update.


Welcome to Cambodia

Shot by e th a n ja mes

August 2010 vol. 2 No. 11

From Pol Pot to Ankgor Wat, heart-breaking history and spectacular sites make this beautiful corner of Southeast Asia well worth a visit. By H a n n a h S t ua rt- L e ac h

41 Map Apps for the iPhone

59 Summer Week&T Music Fest

Subway guides and street maps go digital with these new Apple apps.

Kanye West heads up the lineup of this music fest-slashbeach party in Yangyang.

42 German Dining at Bärlin

43 Gyeongnidan Rising

Polish up your German as you polish off some Krombacher, wurst, and spätzle...

60 Theo Jansen’s Kinetic Art Dutch artist Jansen helps evolution along with his windbased mobile creations.

Gorge on galbi or go out for drinks at this new neighborhood.

63 The Way to Wando County TAvoid the crowds while enjoying the beaches on this underrated island.


Places to Go and People to See


here are certain wonderful advantages to living in Korea, not the least of which ironically is the country’s tremendous proximity to some of the world’s greatest vacation destinations. This month for our cover story we take a look at one of those destinations through the prose of Hannah Stuart-Leach and the lens of Ethan James and Flash Parker. There’s still plenty to experience here for those of us who can’t make it to Cambodia though, and this month’s 10 gives you tons of ways to do it. Besides our massive Calendar, Fashion Editor Grace Sun takes you to the Hongdae Weekend Free Market, W Hotel Chef Ciaran Hickey coaches you on cold noodles for hot summer days, art enthusiast Davis Jung takes you to the Keith Haring exhibit, and Assistant Editor David Carruth guides you through the whole variety of visas available for those of you who may be looking for other opportunities here in Korea. In case you’re interested in the other wonderful things about life here in Korea, check out your choices in our Reader’s 10 on page 6. There are also some painful disadvantages to living in Korea as an expat, and one of them is consistently having to say goodbye to some of your best friends as they depart for new placements and destinations. This year seems to have struck me particularly hard, as no less than three great friends have departed in the last couple of months. It’s not easy saying goodbye, and we are left to console ourselves with the fact that the August/September moving season brings another boatload of newbies to be educated on the thrills and spills of life here in Korea. If you’re a newbie, welcome to the “Land of the Morning Calm.” And by the way, it’s not really that calm. It’s actually rather busy and pretty noisy, but it’s also a lot of fun. Get out there and enjoy it. Korea awaits! S t e p h e n R e v e r e , M a n agi n g E dit o r

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere 짬밥 [jjam-bap] experience, seniority Google 짬밥 and check out the images and you’ll be instantly confronted with the same thing that awaits all conscripts into the Korean military service – a stainless steel tray loaded with rice, soup and a few side dishes. When you’ve eaten enough of it, you’ve gained some seniority and thereby get some security in your position and get to boss around the new recruits. This is as opposed to 콩밥 (kongbap), which is what they eat in prison.


Sang-tae Kim

Executive Editor

Jai-yoon Kim Stephen Revere David Carruth

Managing Editor Assistant Editor Contributors

Michael Berry, Simon Bond David Carruth, Sharon Choi Matthew Crompton Gregory Curley, David Goldby Samantha Dix-Hill Ciaran Hickey, Ethan James Davis Jung, Dami Kang Sylvia Kim, Kyounghee Lim Stafford Lumsden Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson Charles Montgomery Anna Orzel, Megan Preece Flash Parker Hyeon-seong Ryu Hannah Stuart-Leach Grace Sun, James Tucker Matt VanVolkenburg

General Manager

Kyoung-hee Lim Dami Kang

Coordinator Art Director

Hugh Lee

Marketing Inquiries Calendar Events Contribute Questions/Comments Subscriptions


Kyohaksa Publishing. Co., Ltd Photographer Flash Parker comes through for a second month with another great cover shot. This shot was taken at the Ankgor Wat complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia earlier this year. He arrived at dawn to capture this image of the temple spires silhouetted against the sunrise and mirrored in the pool in front of them.

짬밥 좀 먹었지. [jjam-bap jom meog-eot-ji] I’ve (one has) been around a while. I’ve got some experience. I know what I’m doing. (Lit. I’ve eaten plenty of army meals.) 그애는 짬밥이 안돼. [geu-ae-neun jjam-bab-i an-dwae] – He doesn't have enough experience. (Lit. He hasn't eaten enough army meals.) Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

Please Recycle This Magazine 10 Magazine August Vol. 2 No. 11

Subscribe today for over 30% off the cover price! W29,000 for a year • W15,000 for 6 months, 02-3447-1610,

등록번호 서울 라 12065 (Registration: Seoul Ra 12065) ©10 Media Inc. Address 서울시 강남구 논현동 10-21 10-21 Nonhyeon-dong Gangnam-gu Seoul 135-010 Phone 02-3447-1610 10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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10 Magazine August 2010

CONTRIBUTORS Matthew Crompton (p. 44) is a writer, photographer, and part-time metaphysician. He lives in Seoul, where he teaches the past-perfect tense to children and occasionally finds the time to meditate. His photographs and writing have been featured in The Australian. Gregory Curley (p. 12) left his native Canada for South Korea eight years ago. He’s been making Seoul his home ever since. A self-professed veteran swashbuckler, when he isn’t trying to appear creative as a copywriter for LG Ad, he’s either busy blogging away or watering his award-winning collection of Peruvian bromeliads. Hannah Stuart-Leach (p. 26) has spent the last couple of years teaching in Korea and exploring the beautiful countries of Asia. She loves writing, getting scrubbed at the jjimjilbang and having a jolly good laugh with the fine people she meets on her travels. Ethan James and his fantastic photography (p. 26) will be sorely missed by the 10 Magazine staff (and readers). We wish him the best as he makes the move to Washington, D.C. with his wife Bess and lovely daughter Clara, whom you may remember from the May edition. Sylvia Kim (p. 10) is a KoreanCanadian who first came to Korea as an English teacher but is now eagerly trying to achieve fluency in her “other tongue” at Seoul National University. In her spare time, she indulges in her other passions of fashion, shopping, chocolate, and photography.

10 Magazine August 2010

LETTERS I am an American expat wife living in Geoje while my husband, an engineer, works at the DSME (Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering Co., Ltd) shipyard. I was compelled to send in my thoughts after reading your editor’s letter concerning advertising in 10. I think a valid point that should be brought to potential advertisers is the fact that foreigners, and I know specifically Americans since I am one, make on average almost double the salary a Korean makes, according to Plus, we hardly pay any federal income tax due to living abroad, plus, we have very little living expenses (our companies pick up the tab). These are the very reasons we are here in Korea - to make more money! All the expat wives have noticed that when we visit the grocery store, we usually spend about 3 times what Koreans spend and Koreans gawk at our shopping carts. When we go out to more expensive restaurants, it’s mostly foreigners, not Koreans. I could list more observations, but in my estimation, I think it would be fair to say that since foreigners seem to have more disposable income, especially those working at DSME, Samsung and Hyundai shipyards, it would be more logical to spend money advertising to them. Unfortunately, there are many events going on that we simply never know about since there is such a language barrier. Most of us have the money, and expat wives have the time so, why are no Korean advertisers trying to target this seemingly very fertile market? Thanks for all your work on 10. It really is a great start! Nancy Sellers, Geoje Island, South Gyeongsang Province We wholeheartedly agree Nancy. We may also throw in that there is a 0% unemployment rate among foreigners in Korea, since you have to have gainful employment in order to be in the country in the first place!  10

Send Us a Letter, and You Could Win W15,000 in Whole Bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee How to Win Free whole bean Coffee from Caribou Coffee

1. Type up a paragraph sharing your thoughts about 10 Magazine. Tell us what you think of the August issue, and especially about the events you learned about from 10! 2. Email your letter to by August 15th. 3. Excerpts from 2-3 letters will run in the September magazine. If you're chosen you will be sent 227 grams of whole bean coffee (W15,000 value) from Caribou Coffee by early September.

Blog of the Month

The Marmot’s Hole


n obvious choice, but it had to be made. The Marmot’s Hole has grown from the personal blog of American expat Robert Koehler to the most widely read English-language blog about Korea. Mr. Koehler first came to Korea in 1997, and since then he has gotten to know the country as a teacher, grad student, translator, and (ironically enough) the editor for another English magazine. In addition to Mr. Koehler’s wry observations about Korean news and his photo essays on architecture, the 10-year-old blog features guest writers of somewhat mixed quality. 10’s favorite is historian Robert Neff, author of our February cover story. The Hole, as it is somewhat crassly referred to, often attracts serious-minded commenters; during a recent spat between a government official and a foreign correspondent at a press conference, both made statements on the blog. But the comments section is better known for snark than sage counsel. Mr. Koehler even shut it down once—though that only lasted for a week.

Dav i d Ca r ru t h

Korea by the Numbers

1,210,000 1,158,866




269,000 AUSTR ALIA Year:



Total foreigners residing in Korea

2008 2010






Top 3 ranking of English-speaking countries according to number of citizens residing in Korea


179,954* 117,986 84,763

Top 3 ranking of all countries according to number of citizens residing in Korea (Followed by Japan, the Philippines, and Taiwan.)


Not including 376,563 Korean Chinese Special thanks to Matt VanVolkenburg of Korean blog Gusts of Popular Feeling ( for providing the statistics. Source: Korea Immigration Service

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10 Magazine August 2010


What’s your favorite part of life in Korea?


hen we asked readers about their biggest complaint about life in Korea back in June, we got over fifty-five comments in the open thread alone. Now compare this to the twenty-nine comments on our recent thread about your favorite part of life in Korea, and you’ll see that people had only half as much to say about what they like here. I guess you could interpret this as evidence that expats here have got more gripes than gratitude about their life in Korea. The way we read it, though, people are just more likely to speak up when they’re upset than when they’re content. The results in the poll are not altogether surprising. Most anyone could have guessed that low crime, easy public transit, and Korean food would be at the top of the list. Note what didn’t make it into the top ten, though: mountains, temples, cherry blossoms, parks, beaches, festivals, and traditional markets. This just goes to show that scenery and sites may make you visit a country, but they won’t keep you there.

10. Ondol (in-floor heating system) 9. Inexpensive high speed Internet (Wibro, etc.) 8. Alcohol drinking customs and openness to drinking 7. No need to tip 6. 24-hour lifestyle 5. Attractive Koreans 4. Quality inexpensive health care 3. Korean food 2. Safety, low crime rate 1. Public transportation

Seoul subway map

The Reader’s 10 for September will be W h at’s you r favor ite a r ea to h a ng ou t i n Kor ea? Some Seoulites like the indie vibe of Hongdae, while others prefer the international mood of Itaewon. Busan partygoers head to Seomeyon, while Gwangju residents can chill out in Chungjangno. Wherever your favorite hangout might be, head to the open thread at to share it with us. You’ll be able to vote from about twenty of the most popular responses between June 5th – 12th. 10 Magazine August 2010


Pin cushions W13,000

Funky Free Market Finds Words by Gr ace Su n, shots by Sy lv i a K i m


G r a c i e’s p i c k s :

he Hongdae Free Market, situated in the little park directly across from the main entrance of Hongik University, is an artistic enclave of creativity that comes to life every Saturday from about midday to 6 pm. Now is the perfect time to go check out some of these clever, inventive designs while the weather is still nice. Street artists and university students congregate in the main market, while indie bands busk for those who are taking a breather by the pavilion. Hongdae is much more than just clubs, bars and cheap eats. It’s also a place to work on your style, as this free market goes to show.

Glass hairpins W12,000 - W15,000

Finding It Take your second left after exiting from Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2, ex. 5). Go straight until the Hongik front gate looms ahead of you and take a right to find the park. Or turn around just out of ex. 2 of Sangsu Stn. (line 6) and walk about 400 meters. It’ll be across the street on the left.

Piggy ring W5,000

Card holders and notepads W10,000 - W20,000

10 Magazine August 2010

Arm rests W8,000 - W9,000

Recycled art: hand-painted bottle caps W1,000 and computer keys W7,000

Crafty Finds:

Hand-painted lighters W12,000 - W15,000

3D cards W4,000

Wood and silk rings in hanbok colors W5,000

Mini paintings with easel W13,000

Open Run 4pm, 8pm Chongdong Theater

R: W50,000, S: W40,000, A: W30,000


Street artists draw you caricatures from W8,000




Paper clay earrings W4,000 - W8,000

20% OFF 10 Magazine August 2010





Expire: September 30th, 2010 *Discount good up to four guests * No performance on Monday $IPOHEPOH5IFBUFSrrXXXLPSFBNJTPDPN


Words a n d shots by Gr egory Cu r ley


Scenic cafes next to the Han River give good reason not to cross that bridge when you get to it.

or those on the prowl for a little downtime, Seoul has plenty of attractions to choose from. Yet, as we head into the stifling months of summer, a string of comfortable cafes strategically situated on bridges on the Han River serve up some much-needed respite, providing just the refreshing dose of cool air one needs to beat the sweltering heat. As part of the city’s newly developed River Renaissance Project, a laborious undertaking aimed at revamping the “face” of Seoul, these bridge-based venues are great for getting away for a while and grant some of the best views the city has to offer. Below are just a few. The rest you’ll have to venture out and discover on your own! Whenever you decide to visit – day or night – there’s no shortage of options.

perched up higher than any of the other nine neighboring riverside venues. There’s even a terrace up on the fifth floor where you soak in the surrounding cityscape – perfect at night with the skyline all lit up in a neon blaze. There is very little difference between the two – both feature comfortable, simple interiors with a slightly art deco finish and decent menus that feature fresh juices, coffee and tea, beer and a few essential entrees. The pork cutlet (W9,000 - W13,000) and the steak (W15,000 - W45,000) are good. The former (Gureum) has a reputation for having affordable, fantastic coffee (W4,000 W6,000). Both cafes are open year-round from 10 am to 02 pm.

B i r d ’ s E ye V i ew

B eac o n o f R o ma n ce

Of the lengthy chain of Han River bridge cafes stretching from Seonyudo Island in the west to Gwangjingyo Bridge in the east, both Café Gureum (02-3476-7999) and Café Noeul (02-34816555) in particular have the advantage of height, as they are

Due to their positioning, placed on either side of Hangang Bridge facing each other, these two romantic cafes resemble a pair of lighthouses. Nodeul (02-790-0520) steps it up by serving traditional beer and wine, while Rio (02-796-2003) sticks to the


12 10 Magazine August 2010

Getting there: Take subway line 4 to Dongjak Stn. For Café Gureum, get out at exit 1; for Café Noeul, hop out of exit 2 and walk straight for about 5 mins.







1 The latest addition to Ttukseom Resort is a giant worm-shaped structure referred to as “Jabeolle” (자벌레), located right below Cheongdam Bridge. Housing a restaurant on the third floor and a café on the fourth floor, the attraction hosts various media art exhibitions as well. 2 Observation deck 3 Cafe Nodeul at night 4 Cafe Rio by night 5 Inside the worm-like observation deck at Ttukseom Resort 6 The meandering stretch of the Han River outside Cafe Bom 7 View from the bridge - Cafe Bom 8 View from below Cafe Bom 9 Latte Macchiato and gelato at Cafe Rio 10 The colorful menu of Cafe Rio

basics of coffee and tea. Fancy-sounding imported lager will run you between W6,000 - W9,000. The interior is cozy, and the dark lighting only adds to the great surrounding views. Both stay open year-round from 10 am to 2 pm. Getting there: Getting there: Take subway line 4 to Ichon Stn. It’s a ten minute walk from exit 4. Nes t le d i n Nat u r e

Taking the greener approach, Riverview Bom (415-4952) is situated in one of Seoul’s more verdant settings. The interior is rather minimalistic, owing much of its appeal to what sits just outside its huge curving windows – rolling lawns, stretched out tree-lined pathways and Jamsil’s Cheolgyo Bridge. We were told that it’s often used for hosting surprise parties. Don’t come here on an empty stomach, though, as pickings are pretty slim – toast (W2,000), chips or cookies are about all you’ll find. Coffee and fruit juices are reasonably priced (W2,000 - W3,000). Signature drinks to try are omija (five-berry flavored tea) and sweet pumpkin juice. Café Riverview Bom is open year-round from 11 am – 11 pm. Getting there: Grab subway line 2 to Jamsil Station. Get out at exit 7 and walk for roughly 10 minutes.



10 Magazine August 2010


Kids Love Beef We Love Kids We seriously love kids. And we know that kids love delicious, fun food that keeps them going throughout the day. The challenge for most parents is striking the right balance between nutrition and great taste and finding healthy foods that their children also love to eat.

Quick Facts About Nutritious Beef: • Filled with iron, essential for all that bouncing energy 160 kids at ECLC kindergarten share a barbeque feast of tasty tenderloin

The doctor prescribes beef for growing kids

• Loaded with omega 3, the best brain food vitamin you can give your kids • Packed with protein, which is vital for growth, bones and muscles

The 1m Giant Hamburger made by little chefs

Delicious mini steaks for mini people

Healthy Beef Recipe for Kids — Cottage Pie Serves: 4 • Preparation time: 15 minutes • Cooking time: 25 minutes Ingredients • 500 g beef mince • 750 ml bottle of tomato pasta sauce • 2 cups frozen mixed vegetable • mashed potato (4 lg potatoes) • ½ cup grated cheese Method Place mince in a bowl and mix in a little oil. Heat a large frypan until moderately hot, crumble in the mince. Brown the mince, breaking up any lumps with a fork. Stir in the tomato pasta sauce and vegetables. Reduce heat, cover and simmer the beef mixture for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Combine the mashed potato and cheese. Spoon the beef mixture into a shallow baking dish. Spoon the mash over the beef, spread it out, and rough the mash up a little with a fork. Cook uncovered for about 20-25 minutes or until thoroughly hot. 14 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Tip Cottage pie is an all-time favorite with kids. It’s also a great way to ensure they get an extra ser ving of vegetables. After browning the mince, add finely grated zucchini and a good handful of very finely chopped mushrooms. Cook for about 2 minutes while stirring before you add the remaining ingredients.

Itaewon is hoppin’!!!

...and Kobeak is here to help.

Like Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong, Itaewon is becoming the place to eat in Seoul. From the Canadian Rockies to New York and then on to Ireland and Austria, authentic foods are prepared by authentic hands. The concern for quality is never ending in these fine establishments and this is why they all choose Kobeak Foods as their meat supplier. We directly import the finest meats from around the world.

Kobeak Foods® is an Australian joint venture company specializing in supply to restaurants concerned with safe, high quality meat products from around the world. We carry all varieties of meats–beef, pork, poultry, lamb, venison, sausages, hamburgers and much more. Look for the "Kobeak Foods" mark at your favorite restaurant to ensure you are getting the best and safest quality products available. 3F, 59-11, Kuui-dong, Kwangjin-ku, Seoul, Korea | Tel; 02-454-3435 | Fax; 02-458-1302



xecutive Chef Kjell Kollin at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul is a soft-spoken Swede with a giant passion for food who has spent the last twentyfive years traveling round the world and working at some of the finest restaurants and hotels in Sweden, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, and Dubai. He now finds himself in charge of a kitchen staff of seventy and twelve bars and restaurants within the hotel, club and spa complex. It’s a mammoth task, but Kjell (pronounced “Shell”) is more than up to the job. The Granum Dining Lounge (open to members of the general public) shows off his love for Southeast Asian cuisine. He brings out fresh Thai basil, lemongrass and Kaffir lime leaves to sample and talks earnestly about the importance of fresh local produce. He treats the food gently, always trying to find the right seasonal products to fit in his menu and never stopping until he finds the best quality ingredients possible. “Today I’m more health conscious. [I’ve] started to look into Asian ways, how to keep up the nutrition, the vitamins, the minerals. I want to cook the product

itself to as close to perfect as possible,” he explains. “I look to cook in a way which [makes] people actually wonder, ‘How did he do that?’” Seven years in Malaysia taught Chef Kollin the secret to beautiful presentation: each dish he serves looks like a delicious work of art, and his passion for Southeast Asian cuisine is evident in every bite. This is his first time in Korea and he loves it here. He enjoys working with his Korean staff, finding them to be open-minded, hard workers. They learn extremely fast and are fun people to be with outside of work as well. Chef Kollin has also had some great culinary experiences in Seoul, the stand out being a temple-food restaurant with a fifteen-course menu, which he describes as “one of the best meals I’ve had in years.” The Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul had its grand opening on June 9th, and after meeting Chef Kollin, I have the feeling that it’s going to be an exciting place to visit in terms of food. The Granum Dining Lounge celebrates his interest in Southeast Asian cuisine and gives you a chance to experience flavors rarely found in Seoul.

Kjell Kollin, Executive Chef Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul Words a n d shots by Pau l M att h ews

Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce with rice cubes, onion and cucumbers

Bee Hoon with seafood and vegetable in egg sauce

Fried 'Young Sweet' Bananas with vanilla sago ice cream and honey comb Granum Dining Lounge

c h e f k o l l i n ’ s R e c i p e f o r D u c k C u rr y M a s s a m a n

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •

250g duck breast 30g massaman curry paste 200ml coconut milk 30g lemon grass 30g galangal 10g Thai basil 10g lime leaf 50g potato 50g carrot 20ml lime juice 20ml fish sauce 10g sugar 5g red chili


10 Magazine August 2010

Method 1. Blend lemon grass, galangal and oil in a blender and make herb paste. 2. Marinate duck breast with herb paste and let sit for one night. 3. Cut potato and carrot into 1 inch cubes and blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes. 4. Sear marinated duck breast and roast in oven (165°C) for 10 minutes 5. Heat sauce pan to medium and sauté curry paste for 5 minutes. 6. Put coconut milk, carrot and potato in a sauce pan and simmer for 10 minutes. 7. Season with lime juice, fish sauce and sugar. 8. Place carrot and potato on bottom of bowl and cover with sliced duck breast. 9. Pour in curry gravy and garnish with basil and coconut milk.

Ristorante & Lounge Tel 02-553-9000

Cucina Italiana Pizzeria & Bar Tel 02-797-0488~9

Italian Pastry Deli & Wine Bar Tel 02-790-5907

We Don't Claim To Be The Only Italian, Just The Best ! Sortino's 1st Generation Carmelo Sortino

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Sortino's 2nd Generation Santino Sortino


Kimchi mari image provided by 멍텅구리 (Mungtungguri,

jang myeon) are added. The chilled soup is made from chicken stock, peanut purée, scallions and ginger. It’s a little heavier than other chilled noodle dishes, but the peanuts give a great f lavor, a little like Balinese satay sauce. The one I ordered had tomatoes, cucumber and dark chicken meat mixed in. My guide tells me that rice vinegar can be added to jazz it up a little. This was my absolute favorite of all the noodle dishes I had. Ko n gguksu

Cool Noodles for Sultry Summer Days If you stopped with naengmyeon, you’ll want to read on to learn about the rest of Korea’s hot-weather cold noodle dishes

Another “white” soup noodle as I call it is kongguksu (콩국수). For this beauty, chilled somen noodles are put in a cold soybean soup. When I had it, there were also tomato slices, scallions and cucumber on top of it. It tasted like a really good nutty milkshake. While this sweet dish is usually made from scratch with boiled, peeled, and blended soybeans, it is sometimes made using soy milk. Naturally, the chef in me wanted to start adding all kinds of stuff to it. Ham h eu n g Nae n gmye o n

Words by Ci a r a n H ick ey, Ex ecuti v e chef of w seoul walkerhill


here’s just no hiding from this sweltering Korean summer heat. Unless you plan on staying indoors all the time, you’ll have to leave behind the AC at some point. Luckily, help is on hand. When the full blast of the summer heat hits, many Koreans head for their cold noodles. These come in a few shapes and sizes, but the most popular has to be naengmyeon (냉면), a dish from our neighbors in the northern half of the peninsula. Made with buckwheat flour and potato starch, these are well-known to expats in Korea, so I decided to take a look around to find out what else is on offer. K i mc h i M a r i

J u n gguk Nae n gmye o n

In Myeongdong, I tried kimchi mari (김 치말이), a wheat noodle dish with acorn jelly, seaweed, lettuce leaves and of course kimchi among other ingredients. It has a great spicy broth, bits of cucumber again and the never-absent hard boiled egg. While not technically noodles, a similar dish is k imchi maribap (김치말이밥), which is basically rice in the same chilled spicy broth. I think I liked the noodles better. Whichever way you go, the tang of the soup is what makes it special.

My second even i ng out a nd about brought me to jungguk naengmyeon (중국 냉면), cold Chinese noodles. This dish was great, and I just wish I could find it closer to my apartment. It’s a milky soup into which Chinese noodles (the same as in jja-


10 Magazine August 2010

The last stop on my noodle tour was to Namdaemun to have Hamheung naengmyeun (함흥냉면), another northern dish. Basically, this is made of noodles and hongeo (홍어), Korea’s love-it-or-hate-it fermented skate. This time, the fish was sliced into thin strips and tossed with a gochujang-based sauce containing, among other things, powerade! It had the usual mix of eggs and cucumbers, and I managed a little purely for research purposes. The hot sauce took some of the sting out of the fish and a beer took care of the rest. As long as it’s still baking outside, go out and slurp down a few of these noodle dishes. There’s no shortage of wonderful people out there ready to share their secrets with you, and you just might just cool down in the process.

ART Andy Mouse, 1986, Silkscreen, 38 x 38 inche. © Haring Foundation

Br ight Color s in a Dark World K e i t h H a r i n g R etrospective a t SO M A W o rd s and s h o t s b y Dav i s J u n g

here are just so many things to do at Olympic Park in Seoul. Whether you’re watching an international pop star at the Olympic Park Stage, going for an “acupressure walk,” or taking in the magnificent Peace Gate and musical water fountains, you could easily get lost in the numerous activities offered there. However, one thing not to be missed is the Keith Haring exhibition going on at Olympic Park’s SOMA (the Seoul Olympics Museum of Art). In a truly world-class setting, the Keith Haring foundation has put on the largest display of this famous artist ever held in East Asia. Entitled “Pop: Art Superstar Keith Haring,” this commemorative exhibition marking the 20th anniversary of the artist’s death was one of the best I’ve seen in Seoul. Keith Haring is known worldwide for his iconic pop-art and illustrations often depicting humans and animals in bold, vibrant colors. Trust me, though you may not have heard his name, you’ve seen his work. Famous for beginning as an underground artist painting murals (seen at the time as graffiti) in the New York subway, Keith Haring exploded on to the New York New Wave art movement in the 1970s. Though they seem ubiquitous now, his ambiguous and genderless human shapes characterized by their active movement through simple radiating lines brought new attention to the role of pop art. With many of his murals and illustrations offering commentary on social issues, especially once he was diagnosed with AIDS, Keith


Left top/bottom: Retrospective, 1989 top center: Icons, 1990 right center: Untitled, 1986 bottom left: Untitled, 1987 bottom right: Breakers, 1987

10 Magazine August 2010

Haring stood at the forefront as an artist with a message. Yet, with Keith Haring’s passing, the immediacy of his message began to fade. As his art was used commercially more and more, his iconic illustrations became family-friendly symbols of harmony and peace. This is all good and fun, but it glosses over the other aspects of Haring’s original creative drive: his outrage against apartheid, his concern over the crackcocaine epidemic sweeping New York City, his desire to raise awareness for single mothers and teenage pregnancies, and his own ultimately terminal struggle with AIDS. That is why the

SOMA exhibition is so great. In my own experience, it’s the first time that I’ve seen a full retrospective (a collection of 140 pieces!) on the man, an exhibition that is dedicated to conveying all that Haring wanted to communicate. Don’t worry—Haring’s most commercially famous pieces, entitled Icons, are definitely on display here. His illustrations of the radiant baby, barking dog, and winged man are true to the series’ name: their iconic appeal has made them a common visual language in murals and graffiti across the world. It’s easy to see why they are so popular. With their bold colors and simple shapes that still convey energy and movement, they have the likeability of pop culture without any of its pretension. Yet, for me, the pieces I found even more interesting the one lesser-known works from the later years of his life. Entitled Blueprint Drawings, these black-and-white illustrations draw on comic-strip style, telling deeper narratives of sexual violence, apocalypse, genocide, and ultimately redemption. It is through such images that we get a glimpse into Keith Haring’s psyche. Behind the façade of neon colors and shimmering images of embracing figures and bright hearts, we also see a profoundly introspective artist struggling to express and make sense of the often chaotic life around him. For me, it was this exhibition at SOMA that raised Keith Haring from the kitschy commercialism he is known for to the struggle of an artist to find peace, love, and harmony amongst the pain and suffering facing him and the world around him. This is most readily apparent in his series entitled Retrospective, in which he applies his trademark bright colors to black and white sketches all carrying different social messages. All in all, Pop: Art Superstar Keith Haring is an exhibition is everything Olympic Park stands for: his artwork expresses the same idea of a monument of peace and tranquility within the midst of urban apathy and claustrophobia. As you wander down the many exhibition halls and gaze deeper and deeper into the mind of this brilliant artist, you are both saddened and shocked by the levels of anxiety and violence that even his cartoonish representation of humanity can sink to, Dates: through yet ultimately uplifted by the optimism September 5th and genuine belief in unity that runs Location: SOMA (the Seoul Olympics throughout. Exhibitions such as this one Museum of Art) at show that even the simplest forms of art Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong Stn. can have the deepest of meanings. Keith (line 5, ex. 1) Haring was a Pop Superstar in the truest Admission: Adults W12,000, teens sense of the term, and this SOMA exhiW10,000, children bition celebrates his legacy on the 20th W8,000 Contact: 02-410-1343 anniversary of his passing. Website:

10 Magazine August 2010


Viva la Visa! Join 10 Magazine Assistant Editor David Carruth as he explores the mysteries of the Korean visa system.

Wo rds by Dav i d Ca r ru t h , illustration s by Ja m e s T uc k e r


nless you somehow managed to slip into Korea on a raft or made the very long swim from Tsushima in Japan, it’s very likely that you’ve gotten cozy with Korean immigration. And unless you’re one of the short-term visitors taking advantage of the visa waiver program that Korea has with countries like the US and Canada, it’s also very likely that you have a visa. By visa, of course, I’m referring to the stamp in your passport that indicates you are authorized to enter and reside in Korea for a specified purpose, for a specified period of time. No doubt, you’re all too familiar with the visa that you hold and its limitations. English teachers stay on top of the frequent changes to E-2 visa regulations (see below), and students know what’s up with their D-2. But with a system as

complicated as visas in Korea, most people don’t know more than E - 2 V i sa Rules T i g h t e n e d Aga i n No one knows more about fickle visa rules than English teacha few of the letters swimming in this alphabet soup. Truth be told, it can be hard to get consistent answers from immigration. Like ers who have been living in Korea for a couple years. The last big most bureaucracies, the rules are many and the phone lines are visa brouhaha was in 2007, when a media frenzy was sparked by few. It’s quite possible to hear that you need six documents one the discovery that a convicted child molester had been teaching day and find out that you need seven when you arrive to process in Gwangju. This resulted in calls for stricter screening of foryour application. Adding to the confusion is the fact that the rules eigners, and immigration instituted stricter regulations including a mandatory criminal background check and change all the time. For example, even a twomedical check. year old website explaining a visa run to Japan And now it’s is happening again. Just last might not be reliable. You can get permanent month, an English teacher in Daegu fled the Despite the uncertainty, 10 has gone to the country under accusations of molesting his stutrouble of answering your questions and satisresidency by investing dents. It’s probably no coincidence that a few fying your curiosity about the strange world of $500,000 US in Korea and visas in Korea. The next time you hear people putting at least five Koreans to weeks later, media sources including a Korea Times article on July 12th reported further arguing about the difference between an F-2 work, but we doubt most of tightening of E-2 visa regulations. When I got and an F-4 or whether or not it’s possible to you are up for that. in touch with the immigration official responget a permanent residence visa in Korea, you sible for the E-2 visa, I was informed that there know where to look.

The Visa Run

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It’s a hot summer afternoon and you blink away the sweat as you race across the airport tarmac in Osaka, Japan. Documents in hand, you have until tomorrow to complete your mission. This isn’t the setup for the latest Tom Clancy novel, but the experience of many an expat in Korea who has to step out of the country for a couple of days to complete the paperwork for a new visa. Just why it’s so necessary to leave a country to change your visa is anyone’s guess, but how it’s done is fairly straightforward. First, choose your city. Osaka by plane or Fukuoka by ferry from Busan is probably your cheapest and safest bet, but those are far from the only Korean consulates around. Next, get together the necessary documents. Check with immigration and your employer on this. Finally, give yourself at least two days. You should be able to pick up the visa the day after you submit your documents.

will be five major changes. Interestingly, some of the changes will actually make things easier for teachers: 1. National criminal background checks will be required instead of state or local checks. 2. You will have to have your diploma verified as legitimate before submitting your documents to immigration. 3. The mandatory medical check will be changed to include a test for cannabinoids (which indicate marijuana use). 4. There will be a three-month period during which teachers changing jobs won’t have to submit the same documents. 5. The one-year period of sojourn will be extended to thirteen months so that teachers who arrive in Korea before their contract begins won’t have to leave before the official end of the contract. To see the official announcement, visite B ec o m i n g a L i f e r i n Ko r ea

On average, foreigners in Korea don’t plan on making a life of it here. Whether it’s a few weeks backpacking through, a year chasing kids around a classroom, or a few years managing a branch office, there’s usually an end point in sight. But some expats who become comfortable with life here decide they’d like to settle down. The problem is that the restrictions on your visa make it hard to control your career, and you can only be sure of one year at a time. Plus, there are the frustrations of mobile phone and internet companies that often can’t or won’t let you sign a contract with a short term visa. This was especially frustrating to many foreigners who found themselves unable to get an affordable plan (or any sort of plan) when the iPhone was released earlier this year. Aren’t there any permanent residence options for responsible, hard-working, law-abiding folks who just love Korea too much to want to leave? F - 5 V i sa : D o i n g Yo u r T i me

The good news is that there in fact are some options. If you’re planning on remaining in Korea for a long time, you may want to start looking into the F-5 visa. A variety of people can apply for it, including spouses of Korean citizens (F-2), ethnic Koreans (F-4), and those employed under the E series of visa. The benefits are significant, essentially freeing you from the limitations of your previous visa. With an F-5, you can stay in Korea even if

10 Magazine August 2010

SPECIAL FEATURE likely change in the next year or two, which could make it easier (or even harder) to qualify for. For a detailed look at the points system, go online: T h e V i sa - E n gl i s h D i c t i o n a ry

With more than 92 different categories of visa in Korea, I’m just going to give you the abridged version. Besides, some of the visas are so particular that there are no more than a handful of people to which they apply. Stick to the ones below, and you can be the go-to guy or gal when your friends start getting their visas mixed up. Take a look at the number in parentheses to compare the number of visa holders as of this past May (the last month for which statistics have been released). A Series: If you hear about an A-1, A-2, or A-3, you’re probably dealing with embassy staff or a government official. Think cocktail parties, nuclear negotiations, and diplomatic immunity.

you get divorced (unlike an F-2), you can work where you want B2 (63,796): This is the stop-over visa. It allows citizens of countries without a visa-free entry agreement (like China) to stay without worrying about visa sponsorship (unlike an E-series in Korea for 30 days before moving on to their next stop. visa), and you don’t have to reapply every year (unlike an F-4). C Series: These short-term visas serve a number of purposes: C-2 After two years on the visa, you can even vote in some elections. (31,712) for short-term business and C-3 (63,652) for short-term So how do you get it? Recent changes in the laws mean that travel. C-4 (767) is the so-called “summer camp” visa. both F-2 and F-4 visa holders can apply after two years on those visas. Certain professionals in the E series are D-2 (67,697) Foreign undergrads and grad eligible after three years, while teachers and students get a D (better than an F, right?). professors have their shot after five consecutive D-4 (17,719) For students at language schools. Truth be told, it can be years in Korea on the same visa. The visa reguD-7 (1,473) These are managers of foreign firms lations also include a financial condition. You hard to get consistent assigned to a branch office in Korea. have to make twice the Korean GNI per capita answers from immigration. (currently near $20,000 US). In a hurry? You D-8 (7,766) Invest W50 million in a Korean Like most bureaucracies, can also nab an F-5 with no delay by investing company and you get the right to work there. the rules are many and the $500,000 US in Korea and putting at least five E-1 (2,272): This is the proud badge of success phone lines are few. Koreans to work, but we kind of doubt most of carried around by foreign professors. you are up for that. F - 2 -7 V i sa : Rack i n g U p t h e P o i n t s

In a country where your career is to a large extent determined by your scores on the Suneung (college entrance exam) and TOEIC (English exam), it’s not especially surprising that permanent residency can also be determined on a point system. The most recent addition to the visa system is the F-2-7 visa (originally titled the F-2-S) which was officially announced this past February. This visa is intended as a way for skilled foreign workers (in the E series of visas) who have demonstrated their interest in and value to Korea to achieve permanent residency. Successful applicants must earn at least 80 points out of 120 on a scale based on education, Korean ability, age, and income among other things. An applicant who is 30 years old (25 points), earning 30 million won a year (5), fluent in Korean (20) with a master’s degree (20) and two years of volunteering experience (10) would have the 80 points necessary to qualify. Clearly, this requires careful planning and diligent effort, and the average expat in Korea wouldn’t qualify immediately. One thing to keep in mind is that the F-2-7 is still a pilot program and as such will

Helpful Tips to Save You a Headache

24 10 Magazine August 2010

1. Make a reservation at before showing up at the immigration office—unless you really enjoy sitting in a stuffy waiting room for hours on end. 8 2. If you need to call immigration, do it shortly after they open at 9 am to guarantee you get through. 3. It is in fact possible to get legal work in addition to your primary job, but you’ll need the approval of your boss. Note that the final approval rests as always with immigration.

E-2 (23,738): Most native English teachers have this. Sorry, folks, but the “E” doesn’t mean “English.” E-6 (4,290): The “E” doesn’t stand for “entertainment,” either, but that’s what these folks provide. Singing, dancing, and other things better left unsaid. E-7 (9,345): Somewhat unhelpfully described as people “participating in activities specially designated by the Ministry of Justice.” Translators, programmers, and engineers fall in this category. E-9 (205,534): Defined as “nonprofessional employment”—and otherwise known as “unskilled labor.” There are nearly ten times the number of migrant laborers in Korea as English teachers. F-2 (133,733): The spouse visa, this grants anyone married to a Korean the right to live in the country (and the freedom to work just about anywhere you want). F-4 (59,603): Often confused with the F-2, this is for Gyopos (ethnic Koreans who are citizens of other countries: Korean-Americans, for example). F-5 (31,720) and F-2-7: These two permanent residency visas are described in detail above. H-1 (393): With this special “working holiday” visa, young people (18-30 years old) from Canada, Australia, Japan, and New Zealand can spend a year in Korea working and traveling. H-2 (299,537): Far and away the largest group of visa holders, these are ethnic Koreans from China, Russia, and other Asian countries working in Korea.

Immigration Information When you have a visa question that isn’t covered here, your first step is to drop by immigration’s home on the web at or Next, you can call the immigration hotline at 1345 (02-1345 on a cell phone). Finally, you can visit your local immigration office in person. See below or refer to the immigration website for a complete list of locations. Seoul 319-2 Sinjeong 6 (yuk)-dong, Yangcheon-gu. Take exit 7 from Omokgyo Stn and walk straight for about 10 minutes. Busan 17-26, 4-ga, Juang-dong, Jung-gu. Hop out of Juang-dong Station (line 1, ex. 10 or 12) and go 10 minutes on foot. Daegu 1012-1, Geomsa-dong, Dong-gu. 200m away from Dongchon Stn. (line 1, ex. 1) Daejeon 16-8, Jungchon-dong, Jung-gu. Located across from Sun Hospital, a bus ride away from Oryong Stn. Gwangju 366-1, Hwajeong 3 dong, Seo-gu. About 500m away from ex. 1 of Ssangchon Stn. Jeju 673-8, Geonip-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju Get off the bus at Jeju Girls' Commercial High School and walk about 5 minutes.

10 Magazine August 2010


A Moment of Calm in Cambodia Words by Hannah Stuart-Leach Only thirty years after the end of a repressive Communist regime, Cambodia entices visitors with temples, beaches, and just maybe the chance for a moment of tranquility.

Flash Parker

Ethan James

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Ethan James, next page: Hannah Stuart-Leach



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5 1 Hannah Stuart-Leach 2,4,5 Flash Parker 3,6-8 Ethan James

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rab! Crab! You want crab?” yells the determined woman as she approaches. She is beaming as she swings her stuffed bag in our direction. My friend and I sigh. But it’s really no hardship, for these intermittent sales pitches are the only disruption to a glorious afternoon on the beach. We are in Kep, once the summer getaway for the Cambodian and French elite. Nearly all that remains of the grandeur now are some abandoned colonial villas, eerily pitted by the bullet wounds of conflict. Before our arrival, we spent days discovering the many faces of Angkor Wat, weaving our way through traffic and hawkers in Phnom Penh, and cycling miles through bottle-green countryside. Kep may no longer be grand, but it’s exactly what we need. Many visit Cambodia for the magnificent Angkor Wat, which is an incredible site and a huge source of national pride. But this country, a popular stop on the Southeast Asian backpacker route, has much more to recommend it. From serene beaches to energetic cities, it’s a diverse and rewarding place to visit. Modern Cambodia, officially a democratic nation, still suffers from deep corruption and poverty. The people do a pretty good job of getting on with things now, but just 31 years ago, they didn’t have such freedom. The brutal Khmer Rouge rule, led by Pol Pot, saw as many as two million people slaughtered in the harsh enforcement of agrarian Communism. Further unrest and famine followed Vietnamese intervention in 1978, meaning that peace is only a recent luxury. Despite its bloody history, this unassuming former French colony

Ta Prohm, used as a set for the film Tomb Raider, is notable for its wild fusion with nature, as trees and stone dramatically intertwine. has moved on. Perhaps it’s the prevalence of Buddhism here, but the Cambodian spirit is nothing short of inspirational. If you travel to Cambodia, you won’t want to miss Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. These cities give a fascinating glimpse of where Cambodia has been, but also where it’s going. They are excellent bases for exploring the rest of the country, too, as the main bus and boat routes depart from these points. If you don’t have time to spare, head for the laid back south coast next, as you can fit several interesting towns into your itinerary without too much time on the road. Siem Reap Coming from Thailand or Laos, Siem Reap is a logical starting point, and it’s from here that you can access Angkor Wat, the former capital of the Khmer Empire. The splendor of this vast complex of ancient temples can keep you enthralled for days. Fortunately, there are one-day, three-day, 10 Magazine August 2010

COV ER STO RY Left and top right, next page: Ethan James, bottom right: Hannah Stuart-Leach

and week-long passes for sale, although three days is enough to see the highlights. Some of the temples require a motorcycle ride, but for the closest, a bicycle is a good option as the surroundings are pleasantly green. The iconic masterpiece Angkor Wat itself makes a great finale. But there is plenty to keep you busy in the meantime. Bayon, in Angkor Thom, is a stunning creation, with 216 giant faces carved into its walls. Ta Prohm, used as a set for the film Tomb Raider, is notable for its wild fusion with nature, as trees and stone dramatically intertwine. Some of the most interesting temples are the smaller, hidden ones, such as Kbal Spean. The short jungle hike to reach these intricate riverbed carvings makes them all the more captivating. To make sure you leave satisfied, it’s a wise idea to get a guide for at least some of the temples, as there is little information available otherwise. Such guides are easy to find; in fact, they usually find you. We managed to pick up a local policeman, who provided us with history and laughs in equal measure. After a few days of temple gazing, Siem Reap offers plenty of opportunities to unwind. Go for a “seeing hands” massage (performed by the blind), where profits go to help the visually impaired in the city. Or peruse the Angkor Night Market, which is particularly good for fabrics, artwork and krama scarves. The nightlife in Siem Reap is surprisingly lively, to the extent that there’s even a strip named Bar Street. But if you fancy something more casual, soak up the atmosphere at one of the street stands close by. Here you can tuck into noodles and a local beer and chat away with the many characters you will encounter. Phnom Penh The capital, Phnom Penh, is a stimulating place. From the moment you arrive, most likely at the main bus station, you will be bombarded with attention from drivers eager to offer their services. But the Cambodians are humorous, even when trying to relieve you of your money, so it’s more of a game than an ordeal. The city itself is a confusing place. In parts it’s grimy and almost grim, but in others tree-lined streets are reminiscent of Parisian boulevards. Although traffic is often chaotic, you are well-advised to hop on a bike here, too. It should cost no more than a couple of dollars for a day, and as long as you remain alert riding through the throngs is quite a thrill. The main sites include two of the most challenging: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. The first is the building used by Pol Pot’s forces as the largest detention center in the country, named S-21 (Security Prison 21). The rooms themselves, originally used as classrooms, are haunting in their simplicity. All that remains in many of them is a dere-


10 Magazine August 2010

lict bed. A poignant display of prisoner’s photographs is also on display. Equally powerful are the Killing Fields. The first thing to grab your attention as you enter the grounds is a white memorial stupa. It houses just over half of the 17,000 skulls of those who were executed here between 1975 and 1978 by the Khmer Rouge. Pieces of clothing and bone are still evident in the ground, providing a harsh reminder of the horror of the genocide. In stark contrast, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in the city center are also important sites. The lavish home of King Sihamoni, the Royal Palace is a sparkling vision of gold and silver. Inside the Silver Pagoda, you will find a life-sized gold Buddha, decorated with no less than 2086 diamonds. After you’ve been astounded by all the extravagance, take a seat in the bright, lush gardens. They are a welcome antidote to the buzz of the city. The South Coast Some great destinations are easily accessible from Phnom Penh, and cheap bus tickets are easy to purchase from most guesthouses. The beaches of Cambodia are not as renowned as those of Thailand, but they have an allure all of their own. Sihanoukville is emerging as the most popular spot, and it’s a good place to come for water sports. Attractive Ochheuteal Beach is where most of the action is, but there are other beaches and islands nearby if you’re after a less-developed scene. Kampot, just two hours away by share taxi, is a pretty riverside town with a relaxed, charming feel to it. There’s not much to do here, but it’s a great place for wandering and taking in the French architecture or just sitting by the river with a coffee, people watching. For a day trip, you could head to nearby Phnom Chhnork to explore atmospheric bat-filled caves. Or, alternatively, go and see the surrounding countryside. It won’t be long before you stumble upon a village where you can witness the slow-paced, rural lifestyle of the average Cambodian.


nd that leads us back to Kep. Since its sands aren’t white and its amenities limited, the crowds have yet to land. We could count the people we have seen today. Some playful friends taking a fully clothed dip, a group of young monks draped in vibrant persimmon robes, deep in conversation. Everyone seems to be immersed in the tranquility of the place. A makeshift restaurant appears on the promenade with a toilet roll forming the centre piece. We open the carrier bags on the plastic table to reveal the hot, broken crab, covered in the pepper sauce for which Kep is famed. Eating the sticky meat with our fingers, we come to appreciate the toilet paper as more falls into our laps than our mouths. As we reach the end of our impromptu feast, the sun is setting. Framed by the dark leaves of the tree that shades us, it illuminates our moment of contentment and calm.

Kramas These distinctive checked scarves are more than just an accessory. They are used for just about anything: as head scarves to keep out the heat, as sarongs, as slings for babies, and even to tow vehicles. You can buy them at most markets, or better still, you can visit a workshop and pick up a few directly from the hands that wove them.

Five Picks for Travel Reading First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung (2001) A moving account of Ung’s life under the Khmer Rouge A History of Cambodia by David Chandler (2000) A thorough but accessible overview of Cambodia’s history The Lost Executioner: A Story of the Khmer Rouge by Nic Dunlop (2005) A photojournalist’s take on the genocide, focusing on Pol Pot’s chief executioner Moon Spotlight Angkor Wat by Tom Vater (2010) A guide to plan your temple viewing and give you some context Temples and Tuk Tuks: Travels in Cambodia by Lydia Laube (2004) One woman’s account of her Cambodian travels. 10 Magazine August 2010

Gastronomic News Hooters Is Back in Gangnam When both the Gangnam and Apgujeong branches of Hooters shut down not so long ago, foreigners wondered where to go for their dose of “delightfully tacky yet unrefined” Americana. Of course, there was still the Yongsan store, but that was tucked away in the basement of the elec-

tronics market. Now, the relaxing atmosphere and top-quality service Hooters is known for are back in Gangnam with the branch that just opened across from the Ritz-Carlton near Sinnonhyeon Stn. exit 3. Stop by for chilled draft beers from around the world along with tasty food including the famous wings, burgers, steamed shrimp, and more. 02-587-7854

Shot by dy l a n go ld by

There’s a New Steak House in Town

Caffe Bene Opens Roasting Factory in Seoul They’re multiplying like rabbits, these Caffe Bene locations around Korea. There are over 220 locations currently, and they’re set to have more locations than any other coffee shop in Korea by early next year. They used to outsource their coffee roasting, but in order to ensure a steady stream of quality fresh-roasted coffee beans to its hundreds of stores around the country, Caffe Bene has just opened their brand new coffee roasting and research facility in eastern Seoul. Freshly roasted coffee is already on its way to a location near you.

In Cheongdam-dong to be precise. The Barn prime steak house is the new creation of celebrity chef Jong-heon Rho (노종헌), and it is in the heart of Korea’s ritziest dining neighborhood. Obviously, the prices aren’t going to be cheap, but they’re not out of this world either. Their massive T-bone weighing in at 750 grams (26 oz.) of USDA Prime beef is W120,000, while a more dainty portion consisting of a pair of lamb chops comes in at W35,000. The down-home side dish options (app roximately W10,0 0 0 each) include roasted potatoes, creamed spinach and vegetable stew. 02-547-6633

Clock 16: The Sheraton Walkerhill’s Newest Addition It’s hard to argue there’s a hotel in Korea more beautifully situated than The Walkerhill with its lovely perch on Mt. Acha overlooking the Han River. Now they’ve taken full advantage of that view with the new “European Restaurant and Bar” concept they’ve applied to Clock 16. The “16” is apparently a reference to both its 16th-floor elevation and the most beautiful hour to be there - sunset (starting at 4 pm). Fresh from New York, newly-arrived head chef Justin Toth puts together some terrifically creative dishes that will have you admiring his culinary expertise along with the amazing views. 02-450-4516

Would You Like Free Yoga With That Tea?

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Yo g i Te a , t h e m a s t e r f u l blend that rejuvenates mind, body, and spirit, is now available on shelves in Korea. Not just a tea, it comes in a set with a CD perfect for relaxation or meditation, an aroma candle, and an eco-bag. Plus, you get a choice of one

class with the 2008 world yoga champion, seven days of free class at a celebrity gym, or ten days fitness and yoga at any of World Gym’s three locations. Yogi Tea spa sets are exclusively available at Hyundai department store in Apgujeong and COEX. 02-785-9002

Edited by Dav i d Ca r ru t h a n d K you ngh ee Li m

Expat Updates ATEK Joins Seoul Police Advisory Committee ATEK will serve as official advisors to the Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency (SMPA) by providing policy and procedure recommendations as part of the newly established Foreign Affairs Advisory Committee. The committee, also composed of representatives of Filipino, Nigerian, Chinese, and other key migrant groups, is intended to open communication channels between the various expat communities in Korea and the SMPA. Mark Barthelemy, a bilingual volunteer with more than ten years experience in Korea, will represent ATEK’s members who come predominantly from the seven English speaking countries that send teachers to Korea. Cultivating relationships like this one through trust and cultural sensitivity in communication is the best way to demonstrate that teachers are productive members of the community who deserve to be heard. Although outspoken in the past on some important issues facing teachers, ATEK’s primary focus is on providing basic services and establishing a reputation as a respected voice for teachers through consulting rather than polarizing media campaigns.

10 Years In, SPAF Is Still Striking Sparks Held every autumn since 2001, the Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF) has been one of the preeminent international performing arts festivals in Korea. This year, SPAF will be held from October 2nd to November 14th at major theater venues throughout Seoul, including the Seoul Arts Center, Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Theater, and the Sejong Center. For its 10th anniversary, SPAF 2010 has chosen the theme “SPAF Strikes Sparks.” This theme expresses the organizers’ desire to present stimulating and thought-provoking performances of highly acclaimed works, thereby sparking interest in the field of performing arts. The shows planned for this year’s festival bring together a variety of visions, styles and points of view coupled with artistic passion and intensity. This year, SPAF presents twenty-eight performances from eight countries, including ten overseas productions from Russia, Lithuania, Bulgaria, France, Belgium, Switzerland and Poland; seventeen productions from Korea; and 1 Korean-French co-production. These culturally diverse performances span the genres of theatre, dance, street plays, and multidisciplinary works. An English website for SPAF 2010 will be available in early August. Tickets for all performances will go on sale September 1st and special discounts are available. 10 Magazine August 2010

E dited by Dav i d Ca r ru t h a n d Da m i K a ng

+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Special Music and Menu

The Haeundae Seacloud Through August 15th, the Theus Bar at the Seacloud Hotel will be hosting a mini concert with old Korean pop songs played on the guitar from 9:30 – 11 pm each night except Monday. The music will go down great with the Summer Special Menu at Theus (through August 29th) and an extended closing time of 1 am. You can even order some of the cold drinks and snacks on the menu while splashing around in the outdoor pool (through August 22nd). 051-933-1600

Plan Your Big Day

Ritz-Carlton’s Wedding Fair The Ritz-Carlton Seoul, already a popular choice for hotel weddings, is offering even more options to keep the customers coming. You can see the latest wedding themes and products for yourself on September 1st at 2 pm and 6 pm at the Ritz-Carlton Wedding Fair. Along with a wedding demo, there will be displays of the latest brand-name wedding dresses, cosmetics, and jewelry. If you’re planning on tying the knot in style, there are few places ritzier than the Ritz-Carlton Grand Ballroom, with luxurious curtains sweeping to the floor and a chandelier hanging above. 02-3451-8233

Boost Your Energy

Summer Package

The Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Seoul Hotel is your latest summer getaway with the 2010 Summer Package. Through August 31st, you have the choice of the Cool Summer Package (for couples) and the Family Summer Package. With the Cool Summer Package (W140,000++), a bottle of red wine complements one night’s stay in a deluxe room. The Family Summer Package (W185,000++) combines a night’s stay in a deluxe room, a bottle of red wine, an in-room movie, and breakfast for you and up to two kids (under age 12). 02-2222-8500

The Busan Lotte Hotel Through August 31st, Chinese restaurant Dorim on the 43rd floor of the Busan Lotte Hotel will be offering traditional Oriental dishes for guests exhausted from the heat wave. With Chinese favorites black garlic, stir-fried pork, steamed lobster, and buldojang (shark fin soup) on the menu, you’re sure to recover from the seasonal fatigue. Choose from gung jeong eo seon, a royal dish composed of buldojang, abalone, and lobster (W128,000++) and the longevity-increasing man su hong yeon, which is made with stir-fried asparagus and shrimp as well as pork fried up with herbs (W88,000++). 051-810-6340

Summer Lobster Festival


The JW Marriott Seoul Sink your teeth into some fresh North Atlantic Lobster at the JW’s Grill restaurant, located at the JW Marriott Seoul. At this lobster feast, choose à la carte dishes (W48,000++ - W92,000++) such as grilled lobster with white wine cream sauce and lobster tail and shrimp simmered in a saffron stock. Or leave the choices to the experts with Chef Hwang’s special set menu (W85,000++): Alaskan king crab and lobster cake with persimmon sauce, spicy seafood chowder and grilled lobster tail. 02-6282-6759

10 Magazine August 2010

Cool Treats

The Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul When sizzling summer is too hot to handle, you can head to the residents lounge at Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul for some refreshing ice cream. Through August 31st, guests will be served a variety of delectable desserts, including traditional shaved ice with red beans and berries, organic rainbow ice cream with hot waffles, and lemon and mango sherbet mixed with vanilla ice cream and topped with slices of fruits. You can also grab an ice cream bar before you go out into the hot sun. 02-3466-7203

Lobsters Ahoy

The Courtyard Marriott For some briny delights, sail over to the Courtyard Marriot’s MoMo Café to try some new lobster dishes. Even the most hardened pirate would shed a tear over irresistible creations such as Spicy Lobster Bisque and Roasted Lobster with Truffle Butter. And since MoMo Café is located at the Times Square shopping mall, you can continue the fun after your gourmet dinner with a movie, window shopping, a kids’ theme park, and more. W9,000++ - W65,000++ for dinner only. 02-2638-3081

Cool Summer Package

Novotel Ambassador Busan Get set for relaxing summer days on Haeundae Beach with the Novotel Ambassador Busan’s Cool Summer Package. Available through the end of August, it equips summer vacationers with what they need for a good time both indoors and out. The package includes an Avene starter kit (skin care products), Instyle summer book and Shiseido sun block sample as well as access to the fitness center, swimming pool and a big discount on other facilities. W170,000++ with additional charges for weekends and peak season. 051-743-1234

Spa Package Marks 1st Year Anniversary

Sheraton Incheon The Spa Hasta at the Sheraton Incheon will be opening August 1st, and the Spa@Sheraton package (through October 31st ) is your chance to try it out. With this package, you can choose Deep Tissue Muscle Therapy (2 people, an hour) or “Hast-assage” Therapy (1 person, 100 minutes), the signature program at The Spa Hasta. The basic package rate of W288,000++ entitles you to a night’s stay in a deluxe room plus free admission to the fitness center, inside pool, and sauna, while W340,000++ puts you in a club deluxe room with access to the club lounge. 032-835-1004

BBQ Festival

COEX InterContinental Seoul The COEX InterContinental Seoul’s international buffet restaurant The Brasserie will be featuring BBQ selections in addition to the rest of the buffet on weekdays through August 31st. Delicacies include salmon with lemon and dill, soft bacon, basil shrimp, and (from August 11th) lemon grass beef satay and saffron lemon beef shish kebabs. W48,000++ for lunch and W55,000++ for dinner (add W10,000++ for unlimited alcohol). 02-3430-8610 10 Magazine August 2010

E dited by Dav i d Ca r ru t h a n d Da m i K a ng

World Leisure Congress and Leisure Games Thousands of athletes will converge on the Gangwon Province city of Chunchon for the first World Leisure Games. For the details, see p. 59.





















by Pa u l M atthews

Shrek Forever After

Directed by Mike Mitchell Back in 2001, I was amazed by how strange, funny and beautiful the first Shrek film was. In 2004, I had a great time watching Shrek 2. But by 2007, with Shrek the Third, it felt like the franchise had run its course and that there was no steam left in this fairy tale. So it was with trepidation that I sat down to watch Shrek Forever After. Shrek is bored with family life and when offered the chance to live like a nasty ogre again for one day by the tiny and rather sinister Rumpelstiltskin, he jumps at the opportunity. Unfortunately there’s a catch, and Shrek finds himself trapped in a world where he and his love, Fiona, never met. There are quite a few laughs, and the scenes with the fat Puss in Boots are fantastic, but the magic of the original Shrek is long gone. At times, it even feels like a green-tinged homage to Avatar and it seems unsure of its direction. It’s better than Shrek the Third, but I hope this is the last we hear from this jolly green franchise. Otherwise, happy memories will really start to sour.

Knight and Day

A Barefoot Dream (맨발의 꿈)

A warning for those of you seeking summer blockbuster entertainment: you might think that the combination of Tom Cruise, Cameron Diaz, and the director of Walk the Line and 3:10 to Yuma would guarantee at least a modicum of fun, but you’d be very, very wrong. This deathly dull “action-comedy” contains far too little action and only a few funny gags. We follow secret agent/crazy man Roy Miller (Cruise) as he kidnaps June Havens (Diaz) and takes her on the most dangerous adventure of her life. He’s being chased by the authorities, and he’ll stop at nothing to get away. Guns are fired, cars are chased and quips are quipped. You might be mildly amused by Cruise and Diaz’s antics, but the story goes nowhere and the action sequences aren’t particularly exciting or enthralling. Cameron looks tired behind the eyes, and despite all of Tom’s natural charm, I just wanted this boring buddy flick to end. Stay away from this shameful waste of talent and money and pray that Mission: Impossible 4 will give us a Tom Cruise action film we can actually enjoy.

W hen you t h i n k of East Timor, football may not be the first thing that pops into your head, but after watching the latest offering from the director of Crossing, you’ll forever associate this tiny nation with sporting dreams. Based on the real life story of Korean exfootballer Shi n-hwan Kim’s attempts to create a national youth soccer team, this slightly cheesy but heart-warming sports drama follows the desperate antics of entrepreneur/con-man Won-gwang Kim (played by Hee-soon Park) as he tries to make a living in East Timor. He leases football shoes to the local kids in an attempt to make money, but soon realizes they have no way of paying him back. With a change of heart he goes on to become their coach and sets out to create East Timor’s first official football team. They have the skills, but can they raise enough money to compete in the International Youth Tournament in Hiroshima? The film plays out like a love letter to troubled East Timor, covering the country’s struggles of the past few years without becoming overly sentimental, and director Tae-gyun Kim doesn’t slip into the mawkishness that has affected his previous work. The kids are adorable, their football skills are stunning (they’re actual members of Shin-hwan Kim’s team) and the former presi-

Directed by James Mangold

38 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Directed by Tae-gyun Kim

dent of East Timor makes a cameo appearance, but it’s Heesoon Park who steals the show as the grumpy and frustrated exfootballer. He switches between Korean, English, Indonesian and Tetum (one of East Timor’s official languages) effortlessly

Thursday, August 5th

The Man from Nowhere 아저씨 Korea Wonbin, Sae-ron Kim, Tae-hun Kim; dir. Jeong-beom Lee. Reclusive pawnshop owner Taesik get embroiled in a crime syndicate when his neighbor’s daughter and only friend is kidnapped. Two Eyes Staring Holland Isabelle Stokkel, Charlotte Arnoldy, Hadewych Minis; dir. Elbert van Strien. When her parents move to the countryside, Christine makes a strange new friend and uncovers her mother’s shocking past. Toy Story 3 USA Tom Hanks, Tim Allen, Joan Cusack; dir. Lee Unkrich. Andy heads off to college, leaving Woody, Buzz, and the rest to fend for themselves at a not-so-nice daycare. I Give My First Love to You Japan Mao Inoue, Masaki Okada, Tetta Sugimoto; dir. Takehiko Shinjo. Takuma’s terminal heart condition complicates his budding love for Mayo. Step Up 3D USA Sharni Vinson, Rick Malambri, Adam G. Sevani; dir. Jon Chu. A NYU freshman joins a tight-knit team of New York street dancers as they battle some of the world’s best hip-hop dancers. Thursday, August 12th

Nanny McPhee and the Big Bang England, France Myeong-min Kim, Ju-mi Park; dir. Min-ho Woo. Eight years after his daughter’s kidnapping, former pastor Yeong-su learns that she is still alive. The Descent: Part 2 England Natalie Jackson Mendoza, Krysten Cummings, Gavan O’Herlihy; dir. Jon Harris. In this sequel to the spelunking horror film, Sarah follows the police back into the ghastly Appalachian caves. Predators USA Adrien Brody, Topher Grace, Laurence Fishburne; dir. Nimrod Antal. A group of elite fighters stranded on a strange planet must work together to survive the Predators hunting them. The Experiment USA Adrien Brody, Forest Whitaker, Cam Gigandet; dir. Paul Scheuring. Something goes terribly wrong in a psychological experiment putting subjects in the roles of guards and prisoners. Thursday, August 19th

Universal Soldier: Regeneration USA Jean-Claude Van Damme, Dolph Lundgren, Andrei Arlovski; dir. John Hyams. Universal soldier Luc Deveraux faces his nemesis when he moves to stop a terrorist plot.

Edited by Dam i K a n g and Dav i d Ca r ruth

The Last Airbender USA Jackson Rathbone, Nicola Peltz, Dev Patel; dir. M. Night Shyamalan. This tale of conflict between the nations of air, water, wind, and fire is based on the popular Nickelodeon animated series. Killers USA Katherine Heigl, Ashton Kutcher, Tom Selleck; dir. Robert Luketic. In this action-comedy, Jen’s new husband is a former contract killer who finds it tough to leave the business. The Expendables USA Sylvester Stallone, Jet Li, Bruce Willis; dir. Sylvester Stallone. A star-studded cast of action movie stars from the 80s and 90s plays a team of mercenaries hired to overthrow a dictator. Thursday, August 26th

Solanin Japan Aoi Miyazaki, Kengo Koura, Kenta Kiritani; dir. Takahiro Miki. In this remake of the popular Japanese manga, Meiko and her boyfriend Taneda look to escape the tedium of their daily lives. TBA

Natalie 나탈리 Korea Seong-jae Lee, Ji-hun Kim, Hyeon-jin Park; dir. Gyeong-jung Ju. A mysteryromance about a sculptor, an art critic, and a dance student entangled in a love triangle. Ocean World 3D England Marion Cotillard; dir. Jean-Jacques Mantello. Follow a sea turtle through exotic ocean vistas from California’s kelp forests to the Australian Great Barrier Reef. El Sistema Germany/France Directed by Paul Smaczny, Maria Stodtmeier. This documentary details Jose Antonia Abreu’s lifelong project of bringing hope to poor Venezuelan children through music education. I Saw the Devil 악마를 보았다 Korea Byeonheon Lee, Min-sik Choe; dir. Ji-un Kim. A grieving man looks to get revenge on the serial killer who murdered his fiancée. Lymelife USA Alec Baldwin, Cynthia Nixon, Timothy Hutton; dir. Derick Martini. Fifteen-year-old Scott discovers the cracks forming in his family in this film set in the 1970s. Space Chimps 2: Zartog Strikes Back USA Laura Bailey, Zack Shada; John H. Williams A crew of chimp astronauts combats an evil alien ruler in this kid-friendly sci-fi animated comedy. The Door Germany Mads Mikkelsen, Jessica Schwarz, Valeria Eisenbart; dir. Anno Saul. Devastated by his daughter’s death, David finds a strange door that allows him to alter the past. 10 Magazine August 2010 | 39


New This Month (dates are subject to change)

creating some of the most fantastic Konglish you will ever see on screen. His performance alone is worth the ticket price, but if you enjoy films about sporting underdogs and are willing to have your heart-strings tugged, then A Barefoot Dream will win you over.


Diamond Eyes Reprise Records From their earliest days as part of the Sacramento music scene in the 1990s, Deftones have, over the course of six well-received albums (and numerous side projects) established themselves as one of hard rock’s most cerebral and lyrically astute groups. Chico Moreno’s quintet, eschewing the noise-for-noise-sake approach of many of their contemporaries, have elevated their musical dynamism to loftier realms. “Art metal” and “atmospheric metal” are two descriptions that certainly fit, and Diamond Eyes shows why. With eleven tunes that cannot be easily pigeonholed into any metal clichés, all manner of sound and word-smithing acumen is evident. Whether it’s the Dream Theater-meets-My Dying Bride infusions on the title track, the lyrically-poignant “Royal” with its flourishes of Metallica-esque intensity, the Bill Laswell soul-tinged grindfunk of “Prince,” or the almost Pink Floyd-derived contemplative essence of “Sextape,” Diamond Eyes adds another star to the Deftones score sheet while sparkling and glistening—just like real diamond eyes should! 

The Koxx

Enter Happy Robot Records Here’s another rock quintet to offer up on the altar of music criticism, this time from some up-and-comers in the Korean music scene. While the group’s moniker may not be the most salubrious of choices, and – at only six tunes, the CD might be a tad truncated – there is actually a pretty solid indie-rock base upon which to build a more musically complete edifice. The opening two tracks “531” and “Acdc” segue from bright strings to something approximating Apollo 440 lite with barely a blip, setting the listener on the path to an alt-rock plateau. “Over and Over” strides purposefully into the pastures trodden by bands like The Choir and Jets Overhead, while “A Fool Moon Night” – the most musically adventurous track on the album – follows in the tracks of Mute Math. For those seeking some harder-edged, dynamic guitar rock, final cut “Troublemaker” is made to order, jangle-laden guitar and all. A pretty good appetizer for hungry rock fans. What will the by M i c h a e l B e r ry next course offer? 

Books This month’s theme is “all things Korean,” and we review a brilliant new novel, as well as three books that can help you learn Korean. Kim Young-ha’s Your Republic is Calling You, is a really good novel whose initial logorrhea temporarily derails its brilliance. Kim spins a story of human subterfuge through the tale of a particular spy and his family. It’s good enough that it might just be the English-language breakthrough novel that the Korean literary world has been praying for. Intricately plotted and multiply narrated, Republic begins a bit jerkily. Once it settles down and focuses on characters for longer periods of time, it hits its stride. The plot is simple – it follows one day in the life of a North Korean spy who is being called back home. This unravels his life in ways that are predictable and unpredictable. The spying metaphor is pervasive; all characters are, one way or another, undercover. Once underway, Republic is taut, engaging, ironic, scathing, and sad in turns. 40 | 10 Magazine August 2010

by M i c h a e l B e r ry

Super Junior

Bonamana, repackaged version (Version C) SM Entertainment The lead single “Bonamana” is so expertly crafted, that if you can get beyond the ambitious swagger of its fit-for-recess boasting, it will get stuck in your head the first time you mimic that delectable, mouth-twisting chorus. It’s putting their hearts on the line for girls too perfect to exist that makes Super Junior’s fourth album feel winded. After chasing girls for so many songs, the fellows take a breather and a much-needed nap. Waking up, they realize they’ve missed the opportunity to dazzle. Still, as the Korean saying goes, “swing the ax ten times and any tree will come down,” and Super Junior keep swinging with four extra tracks on the repackaged album. But the songs, including a remix of “Shake It Up!”, continue the pattern of mostly schmaltzy ballads that can’t stand up to the irresistible lead single. Maybe if they spent more time working on their pick-up lines than their wardrobe, they could move beyond by A n n a O r z e l worshiping from afar. by C harles M ontgomer y

The last 40 pages are tightly written and become tighter and tighter as life and a history of covert decisions conspire to batter the lives of all the “agents” in the story. Best book of the year. Your Republic Is Calling You Kim Young-ha 336 pages $14.95 on Amazon (available this September) Want to learn Korean (and read Republic in the original)? Here are three books that will help. Stephen Revere’s Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills (full disclosure: Steve is the editor of this magazine) are a perfectly matched set of books for the beginning Korean learner (full disclosure: the Steve on the covers of these books is a triumph of Photoshop). Based on his successful Arirang TV show Let’s Speak Korean, the books introduce the Korean language and grammar in English (many books do not). Survival Korean includes useful hints about the language and

culture and is based on the narrative of a fictional Korean language learner. Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills is much more skill-anddrill, and the two books complement each other. Both books come with an instructional CD.

As Much As A Rat’s Tail (쥐꼬리만큼) Peter Liptak and Siwoo Lee 192 pages W15,000

nationwide Hotlines Emergency  Police Directory Assistance  Medical Information Center

119 112 114 1339

This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English, Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation BBB 24-hour Language Assistance  1588-5644 KTO Tourism 24-hr Infoline 1330 Korea Immigration 1345 Korean Customs  1577-8577 Seoul Dasan (city info)  02-120

Transportation by S ta ff o r d L u m s d e n

Map Apps for Your iPod Getting around Seoul (and the rest of Korea) has just gotten easier with these four easy-to-use and free iPhone/iPod Touch apps. Daum Maps

D au m wa s f i r st t o jump on the app bandwagon with its map application simply called “Daum 지도” (or Daum Maps). It provides maps, satellite views and routeplanning information for all over Korea. In addition, it’s the only app that currently provides a ground level view that Daum calls “로 드뷰”—literally “Road View”— similar to Google’s Street View. Coupled with the iPhone’s GPS and compass, you can actually hold your iPhone up in front of you and get an image of the street in the direction you are looking. In addition to the maps being fairly accurate, the best feature of Daum Maps is real-time traffic and public transport information. Be warned, though: the Road View images are about a year old at time of writing and a little Korean is needed for some of the more advanced location-based search modes. Free from the iTunes App Store Search keyword: Daum

Naver Maps

While there is no Road View and the maps themselves are not as pretty or easy to navigate as the other apps described here, Naver draws on its core competency—search—to bring to the iPhone a robust and useful app. Type in just about any place, name or address, and Naver Maps will return a result with detailed information and its location on the map. It

will even deal with some more advanced queries in English, though mileage may vary. Free from the iTunes App Store Search keyword: Naver

Google Maps for iPhone

The built in mapping ap p on t he i Phone shouldn’t be overlooked. Google obviously had the best access to Apple’s operating system, and the GPS and compass make Google Maps particularly useful for finding out where you are when you’re actually there. Google’s maps are constantly being updated and are the least Korean-intensive for those who have just arrived. Comes preloaded on your iPhone / iPod Touch


Not strictly a map, Jihachul (지하 철, the Korean word for “subway”) is an interactive overview of the Seoul, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju and Busan subway systems. Click on your departure station and the station you want to arrive at and Jihachul will tell you the quickest route with the least number of transfers, how long your trip will take, and even which car and which door to be near for a quick transfer. Jihachul also has information on the first and last trains and maps of the area surrounding stations. Free from the iTunes App Store Search keyword: Seoul Subway, Jihachul

Asiana 1588-8000 Busan Air 1588-8009 Jeju Air 1599-1500 Korean Air 1588-2001 Intercity Express Bus  1588-6900 Korea Railroad Corp.  1544-7788 Seoul/Gyeonggi Interactive Subway Map Mobeom Taxi Service Nationwide  1588-2255 The nationwide “black taxi” number will put you in touch with a driver who speaks English, but these taxis cost about twice as much as taxis from the rest of the color spectrum. Otherwise call 1330 for regular taxis in your area.

Investment Assistance KOTRA  Invest Korea 

02-3460-7114 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center 100-768 1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul  02-773-3131 Korea Exchange Bank (KEB 외환은행)  02-729-0114 SC First Bank (SC 제일은행)  02-3702-3114

Major Foreign Banks American Express  02-2000-8100 Australia & New Zealand Banking Group 02-3700-3100 China Construction Bank  02-6730-1718 Citibank 02-3455-2114 Deutsche Bank  02-724-4500 Bank of America 02-2202-4500 Bank of China 02-399-0368 BNP Paribas  02-317-1700 HSBC 02-311-0060 Websites shown are specifically for the Korean branches of listed foreign banks.

Pizza Delivery Order Nationwide English-speaking Service Domino’s  1577-3082 Papa John’s  1577-8080 Pizza Hut 1588-5588

10 Magazine August 2010 | 41


Survival Korean Stephen Revere, 272 pages, W21,500 Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills Stephen Revere, 252 pages, W19,500

With basic conversational Korean sk ills covered, it’s time to polish your street-cred by learning to drop bon-mots and make slick moves in bars and clubs. As Much as a Rat’s Tail makes that possible. Written by Peter Liptak and Siwoo Lee, it is “an irreverent look at language within culture.” With a handy graphic rating system, Rat’s Tale covers, among other things, drinking language, school language, and sexual expressions. Who among us has not struggled to find the right way to express “jailbait” in Korean? (That would be “yeong-gye” 영계.) This book is worth it just for the stunned expressions you will see on the faces of your Korean friends when you drop one of its bits of slang.

Foodie finds


Heady Beer and Hearty Fare Bärlin Wo rds a n d sh o ts by J o e M c Ph e r s o n

The good folks at Bärlin are there for you when you want some authentic German food and a pilsner poured to perfection.


here are some Biergärten that brandish German designs out front but serve sausages with honey mustard and dried squid. Now, I’m not German, but I lived there for a while, and I don’t remember any honey mustard or dried squid with my pils. Yet tucked away in an oasis of meticulously groomed gardens amidst the bustle of uptown Seoul is a haven for fans of Teutonic fare. Since 2005, Bärlin has produced authentic German food in the Jongno area, and is possibly the only all-German restaurant in Seoul. Bärlin has a gorgeous full bar with imported Krombacher and Erdinger on tap. It’s not a Biergarten but a Wirsthaus, which is a slightly more upscale tavern environment. The ceiling is high and the lighting is soft. It’s not boisterous but gentle and romantic. Despite its capacity to seat 100, it feels intimate. This includes an outdoor terrace in the previously mentioned garden. Returning to the beer, enthusiasts know that certain beers should pour certain ways in glasses that emphasize their qualities. While a Guinness should be tapped slowly to maintain its creaminess, a German pilsner should arrive with a high stiff head to emphasize its aroma. The masterful pours at Bärlin are worth the trip alone. The actual wurst was fine but could have been spruced up more. The assorted roasted sausage platter (W29,900) was a plate of three Clockwise: tube steaks with a ramekin of yellow mustard. A cool dill-scented cuAssorted Sausage Platter cumber salad accompanied it. With no sauerkraut or bread to balance Cucumber Salad, it, the sausages became salt licks quickly. To be fair, some of the sauPork Tenderloin Medallions with Champignon Sauce. sage dishes do come with sauerkraut, but it feels empty without it. The pork medallions were a different stor y (W35,900). They reminded me of my favorite resEnglish menus W19,900 – W39,900 taurant in the middle of an asparagus field near Designated areas 02-722-5622 Heidelberg. Tender slices of pork stood up to a rich Despite the meat-heavy menu, Mon – Sat: 11:30 am – 11:30 creamy mushroom sauce with Spätzle. The spätzle there are vegetarian options. pm; Sun, Dec 31st, Jan 1st: was the star, little fingers of wheat dumplings sauclosed; National holidays: 5 pm Accessible téed until slightly crispy on the outside and bouncy – 11:30 pm. Kitchen is running until 10 pm. in the middle. They were begging to go for a swim Reservation optional in the mushroom sauce. 1st floor, 85 Somerset Palace Heady beer and hearty German Hotel, Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Bärlin gives a good fix for carnivorous European classics Seoul heartland cravings. The beer is great, and the dishSauerkraut and good German (Korean, English) es are hearty. It’s a great place to enjoy a schönen mustard should not be optional. Abend (German for “nice evening”) with friends or that special someone. 10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed. 42 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Gyeongnidan Dining Your New Favorite Neighborhood Wo rds a n d sh o ts by Ch a r l e s M o n t g o m e ry


veryone knows Itaewon and Haebangchon, but what about Gyeongnidan? Located close by under the shadow of Mt. Namsan, Gyeongnidan has been quietly gaining momentum. Anchored by the well-known Noxa Italian restaurant and Leo’s Deli, the walk up Gyeongnidan hill has changed dramatically in the last year. there attests to the quality, low price, and quick service. D r i n k i n g Sp a c e s

Meat alley

M e at i n g P l a c e s

Gyeongnidan is not primarily a drinking neighborhood, but there are some good bars. The Library is the legacy establishment: second floor; dark, big-screen TVs; and super-attentive Korean staff. New to Gyeongnidan, Maloney’s Pub (Just up the

Gyeongnidan has always had great meat restaurants. Just above the ROK military installation is a trio of restaurants on the left. 숯불생고기 (sutbul saenggogi) sits right on the street with two other meat restaurants directly behind it. This is the place to get some quick barbecue while watching Seoul’s street life. A bit further up Gyeongnidan on the right is Kum-Kang-San. Tucked in beneath The Library bar, it is easy to miss its


here’re also street food, breakfast nooks, Japanese restaurants, and even a traditional Korean market on the strip. But to find everything this up-and-coming neighborhood has to offer, you’ll have to do the rest of the exploring yourself.


the library and Kum kang san

Gyeongnidan proper. The latter two cafes serve wine by the glass and Tiffany Blue has free wireless internet.

hill from Leos) offers a traditional Irish drinking experience with excellent tap beers, pub food and extremely friendly staff. The Library and Maloney’s also offer free wireless Internet. An entirely different kind of experience, of the “juicy” kind, can be found at the Long-ing bar, for

Cheap Eats Addendum This past June, we printed a list of cheap food to be found in Itaewon on Tuesday nights. Here are two specials we forgot to include the first time around. Naked Grill WH AT : Chicken or beef tacos for W3,000 each. WHE N : 11 am – 4 am WHE R E : Near Itaewon Stn., ex. 3. C O N TA C T : 02-794-4225 Roofers WH AT :

onece upon a time

small door, but it’s worth going inside for a slower meal, particularly if you like galbi tang. Further up the hill on the left is Once Upon A Time, which is slightly fancier and usually a bit more sedate. Also worth mentioning is the Full Moon Restaurant at the corner of Gyeongnidan and 회나무7길 (Hoenamu 7-gil). It offers traditional Korean food at bargain prices and the steady stream of taxi-drivers eating

those interested. For a classier spot to sip on your beverage of choice, try one of Gyeongnidan’s excellent cafes. Big Mug offers a variety of coffees and teas as well as snack foods and finger sandwiches. C-Lover, nearly hidden behind the three meat restaurants and Tiffany Blue, is slightly off 10 Magazine August 2010 | 43

#1 Your choice of cheeseburger/Istanbul spicy chicken/BBQ chicken burger with potatoes, coleslaw, and draft beer for W10,000. #2 Your choice of BBQ steak/2 BBQ boerewors with potatoes, coleslaw and draft beer for W12,000. WHE R E : Take ex. 3 from Itaewon Stn. and turn right up the hill by the fire station. It’ll be on the third floor on your right. C O N TA C T : 02-749-2970 You can read the whole article online at



The Between Scene


Itaewon Gets Its Swank On

he recent addition of swanky new tapas and dining lounge Between to the heavily trodden strip near Itaewon’s Hamilton Hotel is a welcome change for nightcrawlers. It’s also fast becoming the place to string along your friends or impress that significant other. Spread out over a number of stylish sections – bar, dining area, lounge and terrace – the layout caters to a variety of tastes and occasions. Whether you’re in for cocktails, tapas or a full course meal, menu selection is pretty extensive and the service friendly. They even have Canadian beer (Alley Kat) on tap. Before sitting down, you may find yourself craning your neck to make sure you’re still in Itaewon. Both the stylish interior and sleek modern architecture would feel right at home in either Apgujeong or Cheongdam, two of Seoul’s ritzier, more affluent areas that mostly attract those with money to burn. Nonetheless, judging by Between’s popularity, the trend is taking off. To the left of

the entrance is the bar area, a little livelier with a higher turnover. Those in for the long haul should head right to the intimate dining area. Larger parties may want to head upstairs. The second floor boasts an outdoor terrace, lounge and bar with large open windows overlooking the street below. Guided by my ser ver’s recom mendation, I ordered the Spaghetti Mushroom (W17,000). Packed with bacon and mushrooms in a creamy, rich parmesan fondue sauce, it was excellent. I also sampled two tapas selections, the Eggplant Parmigiana (W10,000) and the delicious Prosciutto Pinchos (W8,000). I was told that the House Lasagna (W19,000) is another favorite while the Rib Eye Steak (W35,000) won’t disappoint. All this was washed down with a mojito (W10,000). The cocktail list covers all the necessary bases (daiquiris, margaritas and plenty of other fruity varieties). Although the area harbors its fair share of watering holes, none pack quite the flair of Between. This trend may very well be on the up and up. by Gr eg ory Cu r ley  Between is busy throughout the week, so reservations are recommended (02-795-6164). Directions : Grab subway Line 6 to Itaewon Station and hop out at exit 2. It’s an easy 5-min walk from there.

Re Bar Revelations Supporting Hongdae’s Lounge Scene


here are three major components that any party area requires: solid clubs for dancing, cheap street eats to satisfy late-night cravings, and a quality lounge spot – someplace chill to begin or end the night in comfort and style. And while Hongdae has the first two in spades, the options for quality lounging in NW Seoul’s party district have long been disappointingly slim. Enter Re (리) Bar. Tucked away in a basement down a dead-end alley, Redemption Bar is Seoul’s Koreastafarian home–Jamaica by way of Alice in Wonderland, with a little dose of Tibet thrown in for good measure. The dim, cozy space swims in red, yellow, black and green, with palm fronds, prayer flags, Rasta-style murals, and a giant mushroom under which to enjoy a tasty 44 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Middle-Eastern shisha or two (W10,000). A bas-relief of His Holiness Bob Marley decorates a raised seating platform, and the menu has cute touches like the hand-painted cartoon figure announcing, “Jah doesn’t drink too much.” And while bars with kitschy décor are a won a dozen in our adopted homeland, Re Bar delivers on the holy grail of the Korean bar scene – cheap, tasty cocktails poured with a heavy hand (like the Long Island Iced Tea, W7,000, value-for-money in inducing the desired cerebral haze). Other liquor options include sangria, makgeolli cocktails, and house wine, with chicken pasta and nachos on the limited food menu for those feeling peckish. Ultimately, though, it’s the atmosphere that makes or breaks a lounge spot and keeps us coming back. Reclining on comfy cushions with friends around a low table, reggae and dub mixing with the sweet, resiny perfume of an apple shisha pipe, you may find that the clubs this night will by M att h ew C rom p ton just have to wait. Directions : Five-minute walk from Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, exit 3). Phone : 02-322-5743 Music : Regular nights featuring international DJs spinning reggae,

roots, dub and dubstep.

SEOUL CALENDAR Art Through August 15th Man Ray’s Photography and Heritage Modernist American artist Man Ray is remembered today for the avant-garde photography that he took while working in Paris. 100 photos are presented in this exhibit. Seoul Museum of Art. 10 am – 9 pm Picture Book Artist Market Browse through and buy picture books that push the boundaries of this conservative format. Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae. 1 – 10 pm. Free. 02-330-6200

Though September 5th Pop Art Superstar Keith Haring Throughout the 1980s, Keith Haring used his simple yet powerful images to send a message about critical social issues. For more information, see the article on p. 20. Soma Museum at Olympic Park near Mongchontoseong St. (line 5, ex. 1). 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W12,000, teens W10,000, children W8,000. 02-410-1343


Through August 20th On the Line: Korean War Photo Exhibit See photos inspired by the Korean War sixty years after the first shots were fired in the tragic conflict. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung St. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W1,000, minors free. 02-720-0667

Through September 4th Walker Evans Photo Exhibit American photographer Walker Evans is best known for his work chronicling the hardships of farmers during the Great Depression. Hanmi Photography Museum. Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am – 7 pm. Weekends 11 am – 6:30 pm. 02-418-1315

Through September 11th Dynamic State Exhibit In the art garden outside of the Sejong Center Through September 26th

Through August 22nd Artists’ Production The 50 works in this exhibit blur the boundary between commercial products and works of art. Seoul Museum of Art Annex near Sadang St. (line 2, ex. 6). Weekdays 10 am – 8 pm. Weekend 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. 02-120 “The Hand of God”: Rodin Retrospective The famous French Modern English Landscape sculptor Rodin shaped the development Paintings This is your chance to of modern sculpture by departing from assess the artistic value of 18th and ideal, thematic forms and 19th century English taking a realistic approach landscape paintings by VENUES that celebrates the masters like J.M.W. Turner aT Center Yangjae-dong individuality of the figure. and John Constable. Seoul 02-6300-1114 To see the work of this Arts Center. 11 am – 8 pm influential artist, visit the COEX Samsung Stn. (line 2). Through October 10th Seoul Museum of Art. 02-6000-0114 Asian Realism Almost 100 Adults W12,000, teens Gwanghwarang Gallery paintings by artists from ten W10,000, children inside Gwanghwamun Stn. Asian countries. National W8,000. (line 5, ex. 5). 10 am – 9 pm. Museum of Contemporary 1577-8968 Sun 10 am – 7 pm. Free Art, Deoksugung Palace Gymnastics Stadium at Through August 29th branch. City Hall St. (line 1, Olympic Park Olympic Park Neverland: Art and Play ex. 2). Closed Mon. 10 am Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). Exhibit The 100 pieces – 5 pm. Sat 10 am – 8 pm. 02-410-1114 here are divided into art that Adults W5,000, teens makes use of candy and Kumho Art Hall W2,500. candy boxes and paintings, Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, 02-2022-0600. ex. 7). sculptures, installations and 02-6303-7700 Through November 14th videos focusing on the White Porcelain Jars: concept of play. Seoul Mapo Arts Center Embracing Joseon Ideals Arts Center. Adults Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). and Rituals Jars are of W8,000, children W5,000. course first and foremost 02-3274-8600 Pulitzer Prize Winning containers, but these National Museum of News Photo Exhibit delicate and intricately Korea Ichon Stn. (line4, The Pulitzer Prize isn’t just designed white porcelain ex.2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 for novelists. This exhibit jars also embodied the lives pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 8 pm. gathers together Pulitzer and attitudes of people in Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Prize-winning news photos the Joseon Dynasty. 02-2077-9000 from past decades and National Museum of Korea National Theater of gives visitors a refresher Korea Shuttle available from Through December 26th course in recent history. Dongguk Univ. Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). “Flight” Exhibit Seoul Arts Center. 11 am 02-2280-4114 – 10 pm. Adults W10,000, A number of young Korean Nowon Culture and teens W8,000, kids artists explore the themes Arts Center W6,000. of youth, challenge, and 02-951-3355 the future. Mapo Arts Sangsang Madang Center. 10 am – 6 pm. World Press Photo Art Space Hongdae Closed Mon. Free Exhibition More than July 28th – August 1st 100,000 pictures were 02-330-6200 Korean Art Summer entered in the contest, and Sejong Center the winners of the rigorous Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Festival Get a glimpse of the future of Korean art at selection process are the 1544-1887 KASF, Korea’s first youth 170 prints on display here. Seoul Art Center Nambu art festival. SETEC (Seoul Seoul Arts Center. 11 am Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Trade Exhibition Center). – 8 pm. Adults W8,000, 02-580-1300 11 am – 8 pm. W5,000. teens W5,000, children Seoul Museum of Art 02-796-0567 W3,000 City Hall Stn. (line 1 and 2, ex. 10). 02-120

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Theater & Dance August 5th – 11th

St. Petersburg State Ballet on Ice Step inside the marvelous world of fairy tales with this thrilling performance by the St. Petersburg State Ballet on Ice. This combination figure skating and ballet troupe may force you to think outside of your box seats. Founded in 1967 by scouting talented ballerinas and figure skaters and adding them to the same troupe, they’ve brought elaborate stage sets, detailed costumes, and the thrilling music of Russia’s greatest composers to countries across the world for more than 6000 performances. On their visit to Korea, they will perform Prokofiev’s Cinderella from August 5th - 8th and Tchaikovsky’s Sleeping Beauty from August 10th - 11th. If nothing else, it’ll be worth seeing the stage of the Opera Theater at the Seoul Arts Center transformed into an ice skating surface. Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). Weekdays 3 & 7:30 pm, Sat 2 & 6 pm, Sun 2 pm, dark Mon. W30,000 - W120,000. 02-580-1300 July 28th – August 23rd Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival Open to college students, grad students, and young artists. August 6th – September 26th Over The Rainbow 2 Sungkok Art Museum August 6th – November 7th Over The Rainbow 1 Sungkok Art Museum August 11th – 17th

Nepal Artists Exchange Exhibit Gwanghwarang Gallery. 02-732-8146

Theater & Dance Ongoing The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy This story of a would-be ballerina who falls for a b-boy street dancer is a genre-bending mash-up of break dance

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and ballet. Lotte World Art Hall at Jamsil St. (line 2). Wed – Thu 8 pm, Fri 5 & 8 pm, Sat – Sun 3 & 6 pm. Dark Mon & Tue. W50,000. 02-2266-3727 Battle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. Hongdae. Tue - Fri 8 pm Sat 6 pm, Sun 2 pm. W50,000. 02-323-5233 Bubble World Though geared toward younger children, anyone can enjoy this creative presentation of bubbles, fans, lighting, and lasers. Myungbo Art Hall in Jongno. Wed 3 pm, Thu & Fri 3 pm & 8 pm, weekend 2 & 4:30 pm (and 8 pm on Sat). 02-2263-9742 Drawing Show Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show Theater in Daehangno in Seoul (Hyehwa Station, exit 1). Weekdays 8 pm. Sat 4 pm, 7 pm. Sun 3 pm, 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W30,000, children W20,000. afe.daum. net/drawingshow, drawingshow@gmail. com 02-766-7848 Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show offers young ones lots of laughs. Conveniently located at the 63 Building in Yeouido. Tue - Sun 8 pm. W32,000 W50,000. 02-789-5664

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. City Hall Station. 4 pm & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. 02-751-1500

02-2105-8133 Through August 28th Two Gentlemen of Verona: Musical Play Based on the play by Shakespeare. Korean. Sejong Center. Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm, Sun 2 & 6:30 pm. Dark Mon. W40,000 – W60,000 Through August 29th Peter Pan: The Musical The actual tech team from Las Vegas joins the production to put Peter Pan in the air. Korean language. Universal Art Center. Achasan Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). Weekdays 5 pm, Sat 2 & 5 pm, Sun 11 am & 2 pm, dark Mon. W35,000 – W55,000. 070-7124-1740

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the non-verbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. 02-739-8288 Nori Madang Traditional Performance Every Sunday at 3 pm, Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. Free. Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). 02-120 Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs, minstrel music, and percussion of all kinds. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays at 7:30 pm, weekends at 4 pm, closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 – W50,000. 02-722-3416 Sa-Choom A non-verbal dance performance telling the story of three friends’ coming of age. Tue – Fri 8 pm. Sat 4 pm, 7:30 pm. Sun 4 pm. W50,000. 070-8249-3023 Through August 14th The Prince Who Loved Cinderella The Cinderella story with a twist. Korean ability required. Mapo Arts Center. Tue – Thu 11 am, Fri 11 am & 2 pm, Sat noon & 2 pm. W15,000 Through August 22nd Chorus Line: The Musical In this musical about a musical, twenty-four dancers audition for eight


Jump First performed in 2003, this roles. See the Korean production of this non-verbal show combines a comic Pulitzer Prize-winning musical. COEX. story with martial arts moves and Tue, Thu, Fri 8 pm. Wed 3 & 8 pm. Sat 3 impressive visuals. Downtown & 7 pm. Sun 2 & 6 pm. Dark For more near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Mon. W60,000 – W100,000. detailed venue Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 02-722-8884 information, pm. W40,000 – W50,000. see p. 45 02-722-3995 I Am You: The Play This play marks the 100th anniversary of Korea House Performance the assassination of Japanese prime Head over to the Korea House for two minister Ito Hirobumi by Korean patriot daily performances based on traditional and independence activist Jung-geun Korean culture. You can also sample An. The play is in Korean, but EnglishKorean royal cuisine before the show. language pamphlets will be available. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). 7 National Theater of Korea. Shuttle – 8 pm, 8:50 – 9:50 pm. Dinner starts at available from Dongguk Univ. St. (line 3, W68,000. Performance is W50,000. ex. 6). Weekdays 8 pm, Wed & Sat 3 & 8 02-2266-9101 pm, Sun 3 pm. Dark Mon. W30,000 – W80,000. 02-3672-3001 Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers redefines what a The Rainbow Fish: Kids’ Musical performance can be with stunning A selfish child learns important lessons sound effects, tantalizing aromas, about sharing and forgiveness on an holographs, and more. Walkerhill undersea journey. Based on the book Theatre at the Sheraton Grande by Marcus Pfister. KEPCO Art Center Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 5:30 & 7 pm. near Yangjae St. (line 3, ex. 1). W60,000 and up. Weekdays 3 pm, weekends 2 & 4 pm. 02-455-5000 W20,000 – W40,000.

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August 4th – 5th Being Cinderella: The Dance The Cinderella story is reinterpreted as a parable of greed and commodification. Arko Arts Theater, Hyehwa St. (line 4, ex. 2). 7:30 pm. W20,000. 02-760-4840 Starting August 13th (Open Run) Billy Elliot: The Musical Since its release in 2005, the musical Billy Elliot (based on the 2000 movie) has won dozens of awards and has been staged successfully in major venues across the worldwide. Note that this production is in Korean. LG Arts Center by Yeoksam St. (line 2, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Weekends 2 & 7:30 pm, dark Mon. W50,000 – W130,000. 02-2005-0114 August 14th – 26th Turandot: The Opera Though one of Puccini’s most popular operas, this tale of cruelty and passion remained incomplete at his death and was finished by other writers. Seoul Arts Center. Weekdays 3 pm, Weekdays 11 am & 3 pm. W40,000 – W60,000 August 15th – 22nd The Nutcracker by George Balanchine The Oregon Ballet Theater performs the version of The Nutcracker that turned the ballet into a holiday hit. Seoul Arts Center. Dark Mon. W20,000 – W120,000

– Expires August 31st –

August 19th Ballet with a Story With the SEO Ballet Troupe. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 August 22nd – 23rd Seon-woo Choi’s Image Performance “Water Mirror” Combining film, music, and ballet. Seoul Arts Center. Sun 3 & 7:30 pm & Mon 8 pm

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Concerts August 10th

Stevie Wonder in Korea From the edgy rock groove of “Superstition” to the saccharine soprano sax of “Isn’t She Lovely,” Stevie Wonder (born Stevland Hardaway Judkins) truly is a wonder of the music world. Despite his blindness, Wonder has achieved success not only as a singer-songwriter and instrumentalist but also as a producer and even an activist. He is of course most famous for his musical career, which began when he joined Motown Records at the age of 11 as “Little Stevie Wonder.” Along the way, he has toured with The Rolling Stones, sold over 70 million records, and won 22 Grammys, more than any other male artist. He has already reached the Billboard Top Ten thirty times (which makes him a thirty-hit Wonder). Whether you go for his music or his story, the Hyundai Superconcert at the Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park is sure to be spectacular. 8 pm. Olympic Park Stn. (line 5, ex. 3). W77,000 - W230,000. 02-3141-4956 August 25th – 27th Ballet Festival Seoul Arts Center. Wed – Thu 8 pm & Fri 5 pm

Concerts Featuring Ex-pat bands:

On Sparrow Hills, Fully Completely, Solitaire Love Affair, Used Cassettes, Yours, Bedrooms States and various DJs

Contact: More info: see kabrew news Bank information: Woori Bank (우리은행) Chul Park - 박 철 817-306375-02-101 Mobile: 010-2796-1674 (Chul) 48 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Ongoing Saturday Culture Plaza Each Saturday visitors can enjoy a different kind of performance. 8/7: 90s pop sensation Mi-gyeong Park. 14th: Hongdae indie bands (round 2). 21st: Bubble show. 28th: Crossover dance group “Feelish.” The outdoor stage at the National Theater of Korea. 5:30 pm. Free for everyone! Through August 28th Seoul Forest Starlight Festival This free concert akes place each Saturday at 8 pm at the outdoor stage at Seoul Forest near Ttukseom Stn. (line 2). July 31st – August 1st 2PM 1st Concert Gymnastics Arena at Olympic Park. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W66,000 – W88,000 August 2nd “Go Go Sing” Percussion Concert If the title doesn’t make sense, it’s because it involves a pun so bad we refuse to explain it. Galaxy Percussion Group (US), Percussion Ensemble of Academie (Korea), and Zamstick (Korea),

with special guest percussionist Michael Udow. Sejong Center. W30,000 – W100,000 (students W10,000). 7:30 pm August 4th Friends in Paris Piano Trio Playing pieces by Ravel, Debussy, and Turina. Kumho Art Hall. 8 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 5th – 6th Play With Us Concert Don’t blame us for the mistranslation. Featuring Gwangmin Kim, Byeong-u Lee, and Sang Yun. Sejong Center. 8 pm. W44,000 – W110,000 August 6th Sun-hwon Gwon’s Easy Classics Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 6th – 7th KAT-TUN: World Big Tour 2010 Japan’s six-member boy group KAT-TUN steals the thunder from the Super Junior show scheduled for the next weekend. Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park. W99,000 Supreme Team: 1st Solo Concert Korean hip hop duo Supreme Team will be laying down infectious beats and rhymes at AX-Hall near Gwangnaru St. (line 5, ex. 2). 7 pm. W55,000. 02-457-5114 August 7th World Tour of Classic Music Sejong

Concert Performing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. August 7th – 22th W10,000 – W25,000 Seoul Arts Center Family Music Festival The Seoul Arts Youth Concert Pieces by For more Center partners with Hanhwa for detailed venue Camille Saint-Saëns, Franz this series of six concerts. Schubert, and others. Sejong information, 8/7: Gangnam Symphony Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – see p. 45 Orchestra performing W20,000 Mendelssohn and Dvorak. August 14th 8/8: Chungnam Symphony Orchestra Kingston Rudieska in Concert performing Mozart and Beethoven. Sangsang Madang Art Space in 8/14: Suwon Symphony Orchestra Hongdae. W25,000 in advance, performing Beethoven and Sibelius. W30,000 at the door 8/15: Korean Symphony Orchestra performing Rimsky-Korsakov and Seoul Oratorio: Textbook Music Nielsen. Exploration Pieces by Mozart, Brahms 8/21: Wonju Symphony Orchestra and…Celine Dion? Nowon Culture and performing Tchaikovsky. Arts Center. 3 & 6 pm. W10,000 8/22: Prime Philharmonic Orchestra performing Rachmaninoff and Dvorak. All concerts at the Seoul Arts Center at 4 pm. Adults W15,000, minors W10,000 Center. 3 & 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000

August 9th Asia Philharmonic Orchestra Beethoven’s Symphony No. 6 and Brahms’ Symphony No. 4. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W40,000 – W100,000 Jean Ferrandis Flute Recital Kumho Art Hall August 10th Das Blech in Korea This German group is formed of six brass players and one percussionist who forge diverse backgrounds and genres into one distinctive sound. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm August 11th Nam Music Academy in Concert Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae. 7 pm Soprano Seon-yeong Kim Recital Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W50,000 “The World of Symphonies”: Textbook Music Concert Highlighting the difference between classical and romantic symphonies. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W15,000 – W25,000 August 12th Amicus Quartet Concert Piano quartets by Mozart, Brahms, and Fauré. Kumho Art Hall. 8 pm. W10,000 Baritone Rok-gi Jeong Recital Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W50,000 Seoul Newspaper Youth Concert Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W50,000 August 13th Liberation Day Concert Liberation Day unfortunately falls on a Sunday this year, but this free concert helps to make up for that. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm Seoul Youth Gugak Orchestra Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 USP Chamber Ensemble Youth


August 8th Firehouse in Korea This band landed some major hits on billboard in the early 1990s and has continued to tour and record until now. V-Hall. 6 pm.

Smashing Pumpkins in Korea With more than 30 million albums sold, Smashing Pumpkins were one of the most influential and successful alternative rock bands of the 90s. Brooding yet brilliant frontman Billy Corgan continues to push the limits with their latest project Teargarden by Kaleidyscope, which is being released one song at a time for free online. Indoor Gymnasium at Jamsil. W88,000 – W99,000. shopping. 02-3141-3488 August 14th – 15th Super Junior: The 3rd Asia Tour “Super Show” With thirteen members, Super Junior puts Backstreet Boys to shame. Gymnastics Stadium at Olympic Park. Sat 7 pm & Sun 4 pm. W77,000. 02-410-1114 August 15th KCO String Quartet Concert Pieces by Handel, Vivaldi, Mozart, Elgar, and others. Sejong Center. 3 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 16th Eurasian Philharmonic: “Summer Fantasy” Concert Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 9 in Eb, Dvorak’s Symphony No. 9, and other pieces. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W20,000 – W80,000 Music Instruments of the World with Prof Gwang-hyeok Woo At this world music concert, you can see exotic instruments from other countries and hear them played. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 Schumann: Classical Songs Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 17th Summer Vacation Youth Concert Muse Wind Orchestra with Dong-su Kim conducting play pieces by Mozart, Mendelssohn, Strauss, and many others. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm August 17th – 18th “Dramatic”: The Most Moving Drama Theme Songs It’s often a certain song that transforms a common TV drama into a thing of beauty. Hear them performed live at the Sejong Center. 8 pm. W30,000 – W130,000 August 18th The Beauty of Chamber Music Concert This performance by the

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SEOUL CALENDAR Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra will be held at the Forest Stage at Children’s Grand Park. 3 pm. Free. 02-3700-6300

August 26th Chamber Music Society Concert Kumho Art Hall. 8 pm. Adults W30,000, minors W8,000

Hope Concert with the Red Cross Hear the Seoul Phil play pieces from Verdi’s La Traviata and Rigoletto. Auditorium at Ehwa Women’s University. 8 pm. W10,000 – W20,000. 02-3700-6300

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Performing German composer Gustav Mahler’s 2nd Resurrection Symphony. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W10,000 – W100,000

Leonard Bernstein’s Youth Concert Gershwin’s An American in Paris, Haydn’s Symphony No. 88, and Brahms Symphony No. 4 will be conducted by Hui-tae Seo. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W15,000 – W45,000


August 19th Culture and Art at the Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn. (line 1 & 2, ex. 5). 7:30 pm. Free. 02-120 Entertaining Classics with Dr. O and the Seoul Phil Seoul Museum of History. 11:50 am. Free. 02-3700-6300 Piano Duets “Summer Escape” Concert Fourteen pianists on one stage take turns playing duets (and one quartet!). Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 Seoul Gugak Orchestra “So Much Fun” Concert Have fun with gugak (traditional Korean music). Sejong Center. 5 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 SM: Academy Music Festival Sangsang Madang Art Space in Hongdae. 5 pm August 19th – 20th Donga Ilbo Youth Concert The program features Mozart’s Clarinet Concerto in A, Bizet’s “Chanson du Toreador” from Carmen, and Mozart’s Concerto for Bassoon in Bb. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W11,000 – W16,000 August 20th In Search of Korean Melodies Upping the fun factor in Korean textbook music. Sejong Center. 5 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 Seven Musicians Concert Seven of Korea’s most outstanding artists perform Beethoven’s Piano Trio No. 7, Schubert’s Piano Quintet in A Major, and other pieces. Nowon Culture and Arts Center. 8 pm. W50,000 – W70,000 August 21st Children’s “Dreaming” Summer Concert Seoul Choir. Sejong Center. 5 pm. W10,000 – W50,000 Ensemble Trifolium’s “Boys, Be Ambitious” Concert A clarinet, viola, and piano constitute this unusual trio. The commentary will be given in English. Sejong Center. 2:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 Ever Heard of Brahms? Concert Well, have you? Sejong Center. 3 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 22nd – 23rd Beyond the Boundaries of Music Concert Continuing the “W1,000 Worth of Happiness” concert series. Sejong Center. 7:30 pm. W1,000 August 23rd Seven Musicians Concert Pieces by Handel, Beethoven, Schubert, and Chopin. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm. W40,000 – W100,000 August 24th Midsummer Night’s Tango Performed by Club Yega. Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm

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August 27th KBS Symphony Orchestra Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm August 27th –29th Riverside Saloon Doosan Art Center near the Ogayakguk Pharmacy off Jongno 5-ga Station (line 1, exit 1). W30,000-W40,000. doosanartcenter. com 051-760-1357 August 28th KNUA Percussion Ensemble Seoul Arts Center. 2:30 pm August 30th Tenor Jeong-haeng Eom Recital Seoul Arts Center. 8 pm August 31st Schubert Series KEPCO Art Center near Yangjae St. (line 3, ex. 1). 8 pm. 02-2105-8133

Film Through August 28th “With Greece” Movie Festival Every Saturday this summer, you can cool off with a free movie at the National Museum of Korea. The fourteen movies in the program, each shown at 2 pm, are supposed to give Koreans a chance to learn more about Greek culture, but we’re not really sure how educational films like Gladiator, Troy, Mamma Mia!, and Hercules really are. Note that some films may not be appropriate for kids. Uzbek Film Festival In connection with the ongoing “The Crossroads of Civilization: Ancient Culture of Uzbekistan” exhibit, the National Museum of Korea is hosting an Uzbek Film Festival. Every Saturday (except the 4th Saturday of July) one of six Uzbek films will be shown from 4:15 – 6 pm. Teenager has Korean subtitles, but the other five have English subtitles. There will also be a dance by the Sardoba Ensemble from Navoi. August 5th – 14th

Seoul International New Media Festival What started out ten years ago as an indie video festival for the Hongdae counter-culture has become a yearly event blurring the boundary between videos and art. If you enjoy experimental media art, you’ll love this event at the IGONG Alternative Visual Culture Factory in Hongdae. 02-337-2870

Family & Community Ongoing Namsangol Korean Style Culture Outing If you’ve never had a chance to experience Korean culture first hand, the Namsangol Hanok Village gives you a daily dose of Korean style. Try

Through August 21st Tooni Festival Try asking a Korean kid about One Piece, Kaeroro Frog Sergeant, Detective Conan (Case Closed), or Jjanggu (Crayon Shin-chan), and you’re likely to get an enthusiastic earful. At this expo, kids can meet the actual characters from their favorite cartoons (well, maybe not), complete missions, and receive prizes. aT Center in Yangjae-dong. Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm, weekend 10 am – 7 pm. Adults W10,000, children under 13 W12,000 (includes mission outfit). 1577-3048 Through August 22nd Rio Samba Carnival at Lotte World Escape the heat with fun events and an exciting parade. 02-411-2000 World Instrument Experience Expo Gone are the days of gazing at musty old instruments stored behind glass. At this expo, you can put your hands on musical instruments both from ages past and from the cutting edge of technology and try playing them. Everyone from toddlers to teenagers will want to take note of this one. aT Center in Yangjae-dong. 10 am – 7 pm. W15,000. 02-3141-7745 Through September 12th Seoul Grand Sale Sponsored by the Seoul Metropolitan Government and Seoul Tourism Organization, the Seoul Grand Sale is an effort to improve Seoul’s reputation as a shopping destination. Last year, 810 stores participated, but this year a whopping 5000 will offer deals. Pick up the coupon book and “Big 20” card for the best bargains. 02-120 July 29th – August 2nd Korean Stamp Exhibition 02-2036-0824


August 12th – 28th calligraphy in Hangeul, learn how to Seoul Fringe Festival There’s no drink tea properly, wear some hanbok, better chance to see street performers make hanji (Korean paper), or play some and independent artists than gugak (traditional music). For more this annual festival in Hongdae. Namsangol Hanok Village near detailed venue 02-325-8150 Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 and 4, information, ex. 4). 11 am – 5 pm. Activities August 13th – 15th see p. 45 range from W3,000 – W8,000. e-Stars Seoul It makes sense for this massive e-sports (read: 02-2266-6923 computer gaming) event to be held in Korea, a country where Starcraft is Traditional Cultural Performance more popular than soccer. Gamers from “Misuda” Try on traditional garb, snack around the world will gather for this on Korean food, and hear the music “digital cultural festival” (read: computer that might have been played for King gaming) where they can compete in the Sejong himself. Located at the Seoul Intercontinental Cup in games like Namsan Traditional Theater near Counterstrike 1.6 and Warcraft 3. Chungmuro Stn. (line 3). 4 pm. Meanwhile average folks can W50,000. 02-2261-0512 experience the “cyber game theme Traditional Wedding Ceremony park,” a blend of amusement park and Held every Sunday at 3 pm at the video games. COEX. Namsan Hanok (traditional Korean 02-2000-6194 house) Village near Chungmuro Stn. August 17th – 20th (line 3 & 4, ex. 3). 02Chuseok Holiday Presents Expo 2266-6923 The expo promises to showcase the Through August 1st latest trends in holiday presents, but “Made in Green” Farming and we’re expecting mostly spam and Fishing Expo COEX. 10 am – 6 pm. seaweed. COEX. 02-515-4855, August 19th – 22nd Through August 15th Seoul Int’l Fair for Mother and Baby Action Live Show: Power Rangers COEX. 10 am – 6 pm. W5,000. Engine Force Just when you thought 02-556-2236 you were rid of the Power Rangers August 20th – 24th forever, they show up in Korea to foil Seoul Brand Furniture Fair SETEC your evil plans! Free character cards (Seoul Trade Exhibition Center) near given to all guests. Woori Finance Art Hagyeoul St. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am – 6 Hall in Olympic Park. Tue – Thu 2 pm, pm. W5,000. 02-2292-5556 Fri 2 & 4:30 pm, Sat 11 am, 2 & 4:30 pm, Sun 11 am & 2 pm. W25,000 – W45,000 Education & Conferences Ongoing Can You Drive a Subway Train? With the Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corporation, the answer is yes! Every Sat and Sun from 2 – 6 pm, four lucky souls will get to take the wheel of one designated train. Applications available at 02-6311-2200 Every Thursday and Saturday Meeting of the Mindz Language Exchange Ever wanted to learn languages like English, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Tagalog, Swahili and French? This free language exchange program is your chance to start. 7 – 9 pm. Through August 29th Gods, Heroes, and Mortals: Art and Life in Ancient Greece After exhibits on ancient Persia, the Egyptian mummies, and the Incan civilization, the National Museum of Korea turns its attention to classical Greece, cradle of Western civilization. Four distinct sections cover the mythology of Greece, the Greek concept of the body, the ancient Olympics, and the life of an average Greek. Adults W10,000, teens W9,000, children W8,000 August 23rd – 28th IUFRO World Congress IUFRO is the Global Network for Forest Science Cooperation. COEX. One-day registration is $150 US. August 26th – 28th Franchise Seoul 2010 COEX. 02-6000-1076 Through August 29th Goryeo Bronze Mirrors This exhibit draws upon the National Museum’s collection of Goryeo Dynasty bronze mirrors to shed light upon the origins of the mirrors as well as the period and

10 Magazine August 2010 | 51

SEOUL CALENDAR EDITOR’S PICK Sport & Fitness August 7th – 8th

Han River Leisure Sports Festival


If you’re stuck in your routine and need an exciting change of pace, the cure may be closer than you realized. Ttukseom Resort, part of the extensive Han River redevelopment that has aimed to add some style to the waterway, is well-known as Seoul’s windsurfing and waterskiing center. If you’ve been hesitating to get out on the water, these two days at the beginning of August are a perfect chance to get your feet wet. From 11 am - 5 pm on Saturday and Sunday, try out water-skiing, wakeboarding, windsurfing, kayaking, and more. After that, you can relax on Saturday evening from 5:30 - 10 pm with a swimwear fashion show, a cappella concert, and openair movie screening. If that’s not enough, you can always take advantage of the soccer fields, basketball courts, tennis courts, and bike paths around Ttukseom Han River Park. Located at Ttukseom Resort Stn. (line 7, ex. 2). 02-120 culture reflected in them. The recent archaeological findings included in the exhibit make it a timely choice of subjects. National Museum of Korea

Sport & Fitness Through August 31st Swimming Across the Han River Are you up to swimming across the Han River from Jamsil to Ttukseom? Call for more information. 02-120 September 12th Construction and Economy Half Marathon Because nothing gets the blood racing like hearing the latest unemployment figures. 3k, 5k, 10k and half at Peace Plaza at World Cup Park in Sangam-dong, to begin at 9 am. W25,000 for half, W20,000 for 10k and W15,000 for 5k and 3k. Sign up while spaces remain. 02-785-0582 September 26th Recovery of Seoul Commemorative Marathon 6.25k, 10k, half and full at Peace Plaza at World Cup Park in Sangam-dong, to begin at 9 am. W30,000 for 6.25k and W40,000 for the other courses. Sign up by August 26th. 02-2001-0502 KBO Baseball Games held at Jamsil Stadium, home of the Doosan Bears and LG Twins. Doosan Bears 1st vs Hanhwa Eagles 5 pm 3rd – 5th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 10th – 12th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 13th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 14th – 15th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm LG Twins 6th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 7th – 8th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm 17th – 19th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm

52 | 10 Magazine August 2010

20th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 21st – 22nd vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm Games held at Mokdong Stadium, home of the Nexen Heroes. 3rd – 5th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm 13th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 14th – 15th vs LG Twins 5 pm 17th – 19th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm August 21st K-League Soccer FC Seoul vs Gangwon FC Seoul World Cup Stadium at 7 pm

Travel August 7th - 8th Special Summer Trip Chill out at a secluded beach house in South Jeolla Province. W89,000. adventurekorea. com 018-242-5536 August 14th - 15th Rafting on the Donggang River Travel to this pristine valley for fantastic paddling and spectacular scenery. W89,000. 019-542-2955 August 28th Seonyudo Island Bike Trip Hop on a bike and cycle around three picturesque islands in South Jeolla Province. W105,000. 018-242-5536 August 28th - 29th Jeju Island Trip An acrobatic horse show, a glass museum, Love Land, and other Jeju-do essentials. W345,000. 018-242-5536

Dine & Drink Ongoing Korean Cooking Classes Learn how to make authentic Korean cuisine with easy-to-follow directions from an English-speaking Korean chef. Classes


Nightlife September 3rd - 4th

A Night of Professional Comedy We’re getting a little ahead as far as the calendar goes, but this one will obviously sell out, so there wouldn’t be much point in waiting until September. Stand Up Seoul, led by Korea’s hardest-working comedian, Brian Aylward, is bringing professional comedian Ted Alexandro to our humble corner of Asia. A veteran of David Letterman, Conan O’Brian, and Comedy Central Presents, Ted will be giving us a night of laughs along with some great local talent and of course Brian himself, the runner-up in the 2008 Hong Kong Comedy Festival. This terrific event is ridiculously low-priced, including all that comedy, a dinner buffet and one drink for W35,000. It will sell out. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. Roofer’s Rooftop Bar (02749-2970) in Itaewon at 9 pm. 010-3037-8774 held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Gangnam-gu Office) Mon to Sat 10 am & 3 pm. Menus rotate by day and by request. Classes include daktoritang, haemul pajeon and tteokbokki, bulgogi, temple bibimbap, dakgalbi, and kimchi with bossam. Detailed schedule at or contact Daniel Gray at or 010-6661-7769. Korean Night Dining Tour Experience culture through cuisine. This tour provides a crash course on Korea’s exciting late-night food and drinking culture. W80,000 per person allinclusive. Thu – Sat 6 - 10 pm. Minimum four people. Contact Daniel Gray at or 010-6661-7769. Korea Taste Tour With your culinary guide, you’ll start at a Buddhist-inspired Korean restaurant where you’ll sample over 25 different dishes and drinks while learning about the history and culture of Korea. W80,000 per person all-inclusive. Thu – Sat 12 – 3 pm. Minimum four people. Contact Daniel Gray at or 010-6661-7769.

Nightlife August 5th First Thursdays Afterwork Chill out with all the cool kids at Oga in Cheongdam-dong. 070-8737-7707

August 7th Defected in the House: Simon Dunmore Answer in Cheongdamdong. 070-8737-7707 August 14th Culture Club Vol. 3 Stay tuned for artist information. Club Answer. 070-8737-7707 August 28th Seoul Is Burning Vol. 8 Mansion in Hongdae. 070-8737-7707

Marakech Night Restaurant

Itaewon’s Finest Moroccan Cuisine

August 19th Seoul Sisters Speed Dating Join the Seoul Sisters rugby club for a night of short intense conversations with complete strangers . Scrooge’s Pub in Itaewon. 8:30 pm & 9:15 pm. W10,000. August 21st Seoul City Improv 3rd Anniversary Show At this blowout show, SCI will feature crowd favorites such as What? Small Town, and Freeze plus awesome prizes for the audience. The show is dedicated to the memory of Matt Robinson, a former SCI member who passed away last month. Proceeds will go to support his family. Spazio Luce Theater in Itawon. 8 pm. W10,000 at door.

To list your event, contact us at or 02-3447-1610

with Rhiti Mostafa former chef for the Moroccan Ambassador to Korea Weekend buffet only W17,000! Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Hotel

Noksapyeong Itaewon St. Exit.3

Hannam-dong Fire Station

Marakech Night Cheil Restaurant Communications Building

02-795-9441, 10 Magazine August 2010 | 53

SEOUL DIRECTORY “Wise-Up Workouts� at www. 010-4998-8722 Travel Agencies

Seoul Automobiles


Guesthouse Korea Jongno 02-3674-2205 Bebop Guesthouse Hongdae, 070-8261-4835 Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae 02-337-9894 Namu Guesthouse Hongdae 070-8291-4878


Olympic Parktel Jamsil

Jazz Rock Blues R&B Funk


Seoul Backpackers Myeongdong 02-3672-1972

KB Bank




Leaders Music Academy Whether you’re interested in jazz, blues, R&B, or funk, the graduates of Berklee College of Music teaching at this academy can help you achieve your musical goals. Lessons offered for voice, piano, guitar, bass, and drums.   02-6085-8727 / 010-5316-2331

Foreigner Assistance


010-3524-8260 Gyung Bok Agency Take the wheel of a premium Hyundai with the Gyung Bok Agency’s lease program. 1-year, 2-year, and 3-year leases available. 921-1 Daechi-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul. Contact Chief Sales Manager Hank Jo at 010-3524-8260. Insurance

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120 Seoul Global Center  02-1688-0120 Yeoksam English  02-3453-9038 Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151 Seorae French 02-570-6009 Ichon Japanese  02-760-2018 Itaewon/Hannam English 02-796-2459 Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking)  1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive)  02-888-2000 Interactive Subway Map Radio

TBS eFM  FM 101.3 American Forces Network  AM 1530 / FM 102.7 Classes


4-5 Star Hotels Astoria  02-2268-7111 COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500 Courtyard  02-2638-3000 Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656 JW Marriott 02-6282-6262 Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788 Renaissance 02-555-0501 Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000 Hostels Guest House Baenang Yongsan

54 | 10 Magazine August 2010


Korean Tours

Adventure Korea


Korean Safari


O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean Food Tours and Cooking Classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine.  010-6661-7769


Medical Services

A Plus Dental  Plaisir Gourmand Do you want to learn how to make tasty Korean food? Plaisir Gourmand cooking studio is the perfect choice. A famous Korean chef offers an English-language cooking demonstration plus hands-on cooking and tasting. Located right in front of Gangnam Stn. Various class times available.  02-3482-7482



Pottery Classes at Yido Academy 02-744-0756 Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728

Dr. Andrew Park r64/BUJPOBM#PBSE$IJSPQSBDUJD%PDUPS r$FSUJĂ FE*#5r$FSUJĂ FE&YFSDJTFSFIBC Sin-nonhyun St. Exit #6 Subway Line 7 Kyobo bldg.

Center Plaza Bldg 5F,510 Woori bank BurgerKing


Gangnam St. Exit #6

Hannam Bridge



Xanadu Travel

WOW Corea Tour 

Call Byung at 010-3232-0625 or Email: Korea’s version of Expedia.


Unique Travel Itaewon 

USO DMZ Tours  02-795-3028

For A Free Quote,

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/ Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625


Fides Travel

Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch 02-763-9483

Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. html,


Cosmo.jin Tour 

Subway Line 2

(02) 533-5124

APPOINTMENT FREE consultation by appointment Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or Bellydance Lessons with Belynda Azhaar Bellydance Lessons with Eshe Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio.

Studio-X-Fitness A expat-operated, personal and small group training studio. Highly-qualified foreign and Korean instructors dedicated to providing the most complete and optimized fitness experience. 02-794-3330

Fine Art Class Myeongdong  02-771-2026

Suseonjae Meditation and Deep Breathing Classes  019-201-5958

International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. Jai Center for Yoga and Health  02-3443-9642

Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab my book

Gangnam Chiro-Pilates Chiropractic & Pilates If you’re dealing with joint and muscle ailments, English-speaking chiropractic doctor Dr. Andrew Park offers the best treatments to restore balance to your body. Stop in for a free consultation if you have symptoms including neck pain, sore back, headaches, scoliosis, numbness, wrist pain, sports injuries (golf) etc. Seochodong 1307-7 Center Plaza 5F 510. seoulchiropracticinfo.com02-533-5124 Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Korea Counseling Psychological Association 02-498-8293 Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center  02-927-4322 Ra Dental Clinic  02-569-8745


American Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr.  02-795-1303

Design your smile with a licensed American dentist.



Tufts Dental

Building No. 437

Seolleung St.

Hyungdai Department Store Subway Line 2

Samseong St.

Posco Center

Tufts Dental Clinic (02) 553-7512 Tufts Dental Clinic ADA member Dr. Gina Sohn is a Tufts University graduate licensed in MA, CT, and NJ. Near COEX at the POSCO intersection. 02-553-7512 Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists.  02-3218-2167 Religious

Buddhist Seoul International Zen Center 02-900-4326 Vairocana International Buddhist Meditation Center 02-735-5347 Jetavana Meditation Center  jetavanacenter@gmail.com02-595-5115 Catholic Bomun  02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Chunma 02-765-0870 Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French  02-793-2070 Hyewha-dong Catholic Church  02-764-0221 (press 6) Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706 Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870 Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721 Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong  02-765-0870 Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog  02-765-0870 Yoksam-dong Church  02-553-0801 Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at sunshineamore25@gmail.wcom Islam Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307 Protestant Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732 International Lutheran  02-794-6274 Jubilee Church 02-569-2293 Kumnan Church 02-490-7000 Myungsung Presbyterian   02-440-9000 Onnuri Church  02-793-9686 Somang Presbyterian  02-512-9191 Seoul Union Church  02-333-7393 Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851 Yongsan Baptist Church 02-796-0284

Bonji Bistro Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. 02-795-9656 Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. 02-749-9425

Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. 02-790-0540

10 Magazine August 2010 | 55


Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon St.

HOLLYWOOD GRILL (3rd floor) Police St.


Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. 02-749-1659

hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. Sinchon:  02-324-0682 COEX:  02-565-0682 Times Square:  02-2672-0682 Pancho’s Itaewon  02-792-4767 Taco Amigo Itaewon  02-749-5253 Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. 02-734-9225 Middle Eastern Istanbul Noksapyeong  02-796-0271 Marakech Nights Itaewon Terrific Middle Eastern cuisine from Rhiti Mostaffa, former chef for the Moroccan ambassador to Korea.  02-795-9441 Petra Itaewon  02-790-9441 Thai

B1 Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am.  02-749-6164 Bar Rouge Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm.  02-6282-6763

Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508 Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. 02-790-8891 Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. 02-797-3698 Toque Itaewon 


Austrian Chef Meili Itaewon 



Antonio’s Apgujeong Join chef Sebastiano Giangregorio for an authentic Italian culinary experience. Live Jazz performances: Tuesday–Saturday, starting at 7:30 pm and Sunday at 1 pm. 93-8 Cheongdam-dong Gangnamgu. 02-3443-4333 Fradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. 02-3477-0033 La Bocca Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. 02-790-5907 Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere.  02-797-0488

Buddha’s Belly Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food.   02-796-9330 Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please.   070-7624-3149 My Thai Itaewon  02-794-8090 Thai Orchid Itaewon  02-517-1135 Thai Garden Itaewon  02-792-8836 Cafes

“All You Can Eat” My Chelsea COPACABANA GRILL


Hamilton Hotel

Subway Line 3 Itaewon St Ex. #1

Copacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today!  02-796-1660 Bulgarian Zelen Itaewon 


Chinese Ho Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. Itaewon  02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-34614468, Bundang 02-711-9071 French La Cigale Monmartre Itaewon   02-796-1244 Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 


56 | 10 Magazine August 2010 02-711-9171 L o u n ges / P U B S 3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-3336

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong  02-790-0776 Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station.  02-553-900 korean Bulgogi Brothers Delicious Koreanstyle barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeongdong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. 02-539-3390 Mexican Amigos Itaewon  02-795-9711 On the Border The #1 American chain

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. 02-3461-5680

46//:5&33"$&t.0%&3/"4*"/$6*4*/& 8*/&$0$,5"*-4t46/%":.*.04"#36/$)

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-0903 Bliss Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am.  02-798-1125 BricX Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1,  02-795-5572 The Bungalow Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms.  02-793-2344 Coffee Bar K Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am.  02-516-1970


Wine Bars Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. dulceysuave.  02-515-6750 Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza. 02-516-1761 Vin Vino Itaewon Wines by the bottle and the glass plus a menu of salads, pastas, and even kangaroo steaks. 

Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends.  02-793-7232

Ghetto Vox Itaewon The Hive’s sister venue, this is Itaewon’s first art and music space. 욊산꾏 ě?´íƒœě›?ë?™ 132-5 (3rd floor) Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 010-3370-2979 Jane’s Groove Hongdae A good place to relax over a drink. 7:30 pm – 3 am. Closed Mon.  02-336-1664

along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. 02-749-7971 Live Music

Jazz All That Jazz Itaewon 


Cheonnyeondongando (ě˛œë…„ë?™ě•ˆë?„) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) 02-743-5555

Mike’s Cabin Sinchon This Western bar has a casual atmosphere and holds special events. Near the Yonsei University front gate.  02-325-7808

Club Evans Hongdae


Monghwan Sinchon Come for the nice dĂŠcor, live art and music events, and the signature cocktail soju. club. 02-325-6218

Club Palm Hongdae


Once in a Blue Moon Apgujeong 02-549-5490

Thirsty Thursdays W1,500 OB Draft ‘til 10 pm Saturday & Sunday Build Your Own Brunch from 11 - 3 pm

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine with late night cocktail lounge.  02-790-0776

*with drink purchase (10-rib minimum)

Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeondong. 02-3447-1191

Put Your Stomach Where Your Mouth Is... Finish our 72 oz (2kg) Rib-eye Steak Challenge under an hour and Sam Ryan's Picks Up The Tab!

Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. 010-5775-2327

Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am.  02-542-7412 So Much More Apgujeong Combining a hip interior design with the hottest music and the coolest drinks. Noon - 2 am. so_much_more 02-3447-7890 Tony’s Aussie Shop Itaewon Authentic Australian food and beer. Open mic night held every Wednesday 8 pm – 11 pm. 455-35 Itaewon-dong Yongsangu.  010-460-54326

Business Hours InterContinental Hotel Oakwood Premier Woori Bank


Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201

Wednesdays Sports Trivia Night

Mon – Fri: 4 pm ‘til Late Sat – Sun: 10:30 am ‘til Real Late tTBNSZBODPN

Hyundai Department Store


LINE Line 22 Samseong Stn.

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong.  02-3453-4472 Rock Freebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/ clubfreebird 02-335-4576 Jammers Hongdae

02- 325-3914

Just Blues Apgujeong


SoundHolic Hongdae  02-3142-4233 Clubs

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back.  02-514-4311 Ben @Blue Spirit Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 SeokyoDong, Mapo-Gu.  02-3142-5301

Watts on Tap Sinchon Check out the parties, language exchange nights, and live music nights. 6 pm – 2 am. club. 02-3142-8439

Eden Gangnam New mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. ě—­ě‚źë?™ 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. 010-9913-3919

Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmosphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash

Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50

10 Magazine August 2010 | 57


Tuesdays W500 BBQ Pork Ribs*

Mix Lounge Garosu-gil It may look like a white greenhouse, but it’s actually a bar serving killer mojitos, lychee martinis and more. 6 pm – 3 am. Closed Sun.  011-9650-7055

Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. 02-749-7933

8 Giant Flat-Screen TVs – Not a Bad Seat in the House Mexican Mondays W1,000 Tacos*, Specials on Margaritas, Nachos & Tequila

Monkey Beach Apgujeong Thailand is just a subway ride away if you head to Monkey Beach. 7:30 pm – 5 am.   02-548-7930

Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar.  02-749-2970

All The Sports You Can Handle Under One Roof!



Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu.   02-749-9181 Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. 02-3444-4997 J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong.  02-797-1234 M2 Hongdae This long-running club is party central for college students. Sun – Thu 8 pm – 4 am, Fri and Sat 7:30 pm – 6 am. Cover starts at W10,000. 367-11 Seogyo-dong Mapo-gu.  02-3143-7573 Mansion Hongdae This new club pumps out sizzling house, electro, and nu-disco grooves, bringing in quality acts like Roni Size and Goldie.  02-3143-4037 Mass Gangnam The dance club for the “masses.” 9 pm – 6 am. Sun – Thu W15,000, Fri and Sat W20,000. 02-599-3165 NB Hongdae, Gangnam Supposedly the first hip-hop club in Korea, it has one bar, two stages, and a packed crowd.  02-326-1716 Q-vo Hongdae A popular hip hop club with strobes pulsing above the dance floor. Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun 8 pm – 4 am and Wed, Fri, Sat 8 pm – 6:30 am. W10,000 - W15,000. 121-210 Ohoo B/ D 367-1 Seogyo Dong. 02-3143-7573 Saab Hongdae Fashion-conscious twenty-somethings congregate here for a wide variety of music styles. Weekdays 6 pm – 4 am, weekends 6 pm – 6 am. W10,000 cover on weekends.  02-324-6929 Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 1544-2635 Woo Bar Check out the split-level lobby lounge for cool music and exclusive parties. No cover charge. 21 Gwangjang-dong 02-465-2222


English-speaking Staff High light and Low light Cutting Styling Hair spa

Hongik Univ. Line 2 Hongdae St.

Coffee Bean

Samgeori Pocha

Record Mom & Shop Dad

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University.  02-338-2773 Florists

Oxana Garden You are invited to the botanical life. Enjoy the fresh aroma and the cozy environment these plants will bring to your home. Find the perfect flower among the various options on sale here. Hannam St. (Jungang line). 02-798-6787 Overseas Accommodation


Healing Hands Massage Studio 070-7504-8090 Community

Brazilians in Seoul Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. 010-9631-2133 Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. kmohay@ 010-8688-9810 Charity

Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores. All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. 02-365-7084 Salvation Army Thrift Store Donate your used goods or shop at the stores. All proceeds support the Adult Rehabilitation Center. 02-365-7084

Villa Orchid


Bali Orchid Villa Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Korea-only low rates. villaorchidbali. com email:  010-7307-6555

To inquire about getting a logobox for your business, email to us at 58 | 10 Magazine August 2010


Sport & Fitness August 28th K-League Soccer FC Gangreung vs FC Daegu at Gangreung Stadium 7 pm

Through August 22nd Donggang International Photo Festival Photo enthusiasts will enjoy this month-long festival, with nine different exhibits on display in Yeongwol. Donggang Museum of Photography, Yeongwol Culture and Arts Center, and the Yeongwol Students’ Gym. 033-370-2227

Theater & Dance August 9th – 15th Chuncheon Puppet Festival You may find it hard to tell the puppets from the people in Chuncheon, which has its own puppet theater, puppet museum, and of course puppet festival, now in its 22nd year. Chuncheon is the center of this form of performance art in Korea, and both local and international troupes will congregate here for the annual festival. 033-242-8450

August 6th – 8th Jeongdongjin Independent Film Festival Independent filmmakers don’t have the massive financial support that studios can provide, but that just makes them get creative. See the latent potential of the Korean cinema scene at this festival held at the Jeongdong Elementary School in Gangneung. Films ranging from six-minute shorts to full length features are screened each evening after 7 pm (see website for detailed schedule). The majority of films in each segment have English subtitles. Jeongdong Elementary School in Gangneung. 033-645-7415

Summer Week&T

This is the largest scale beach musical festival that Korea has ever seen. The focus is on hip hop and electronica, with R&B icon Kanye West looming large on the line up. Imma let him finish, but he’s not the only showstopper here. Lupe Fiasco (USA), Does It Offend You, Yeah? (England), and Two Door Cinema Club (Ireland) head up the foreign acts, while DJ Doc and Drunken Tiger are standout representatives of Korean music. For all 37 acts planned for the twoday fest, see the great English website. It all goes down at beautiful Naksan beach in Yangyang-gun on the east coast. Worried about getting there? The festival has organized round-trip bus transportation from Seoul (W25,000) and Busan (W45,000). Cut down the hotel cost by renting a tent on the beach (W30,000 for up to four, 02-6360-4304). Oneday pass: W120,000, two-day pass W160,000. 1544-1555

July 31st - August 8th Taebaek Cool Cinema Festival Cool off from the heat by watching films outdoors under the starry summer sky. Danggol Square in Mt. Taebaek Park. 033-552-1360 July 31st - August 15th Hwacheon Jjokbae Festival Hwacheon is proud of its pure water supply and hopes to show it off with this festival. Paddle around in a traditional jjokbae (dugout canoe) or try other water games including water bicycling and kayaking. Free camping and a starlight concert round off the schedule. Bungeo Island in Hwacheon-gun. 1688-3005 August 7th – 15th Yanggu Bellybutton Festival Apparently, Yanggu-gun is exactly in the center of the Korean peninsula. Hence, Korea’s bellybutton. If this doesn’t make you want to party, nothing will. Events held on the banks of the Seocheon and around Bibong Bridge. Yanggu-gun. 033-480-2242

gangwon PROVINCE Foreigner Assistance Chuncheon Online Info

Libraries Chuncheon City Library 033-254-3887 Taebaek Municipal Library 033-550-2755

Amusement Parks Dreamland Amusement Park With a large zoo and plenty of rides, there’s lots of fun to be found at this park at Chiak Mountain near Wonju. W20,000 for adults, W18,000 for children. 033-732-5800


Family & Community July 30th – August 8th Sabuk Coal Mining Culture Festival After 50 years of coal production, the Sabuk Mining Company shut down operations a few years back, marking a transition to cleaner sources of energy. The events held at the location of the company and the High 1 Resort’s Coal Mining Village look back on this history. Jeongseon-gun. 033-592-4333

October 3rd Life Fitness Chairman’s Cup Triathlon Swim 1.5 km, bike 40 km, and run 10 km. You must be over 18 years and in good health to compete. Near Inje-gun in Gangwon-do. Be sure to sign up by September 1st. W70,000. 02-3431-3800

Sport & Fitness August 28th – September 5th

World Leisure Congress and Leisure Games

Though hard-working Korea may seem like an odd choice for the 11th World Leisure Congress, this massive event will be a blast for participants and spectators alike. The congress itself will be hosted at Kangwon National University by the Korean Society of Leisure and Culture Studies and the city of Chuncheon. If you don’t want to hit the books, hit the field with the first-ever World Leisure Games, which are intended to improve “the quality of life through leisure experiences.” As many as 15,000 competitors from 50 countries will gather at the huge Songam Sports Town for some unexpected sports. Forget basketball and golf: we’re talking inline marathon, wakeboard, paragliding, and billiards (among 15 altogether). Meanwhile the World Leisure Trade Show will be taking place at the same time with leading firms in the industry showing off new products. 033-250-4204

Arari Puppet House Jeongseon-gun 033-563-9667 Bangsan Porcelain Museum Yanggu-gun bangsanm.or.kr033-480-2664 Byeolmaru Observatory Yeongwol-gun  033-374-7460 Chuncheon Animation Museum 033-245-6444 Chuncheon Makguksu Museum 033-250-4134 Forest Art Museum Hoengseong-gun 033-342-6833 Haslla Art World Gangneung 033-644-9411 Ilhyeon Art Museum Yangyang-gun  033-670-8450 Institute of Traditional Korean Cooking Pyeongchang-gun  033-333-1012 Joseon Folk Painting Museum Yeongwol-gun 033-375-6100 Marisorigol Musical Instrument Museum Hongcheon-gun  033-430-2016 Mooee Arts Center Pyeongchang-gun 033-335-6700 Sokbong Ceramic Museum Sokcho  033-638-7711 Sokcho Museum Sokcho 033-639-2977 Teddy Bear Farm Sokcho  033-636-3680

Medical Services Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon  033-258-2000 Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon 033-240-7000 Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon 033-256-7582 Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon English-speaking service available. 033-262-2078

10 Magazine August 2010 | 59



Concert August 6th - 7th

October 2nd Chuncheon Soyang River Marathon 5k, 10k, half and 30k at the Chuncheon Songam Sportstown Stadium, to begin at 9 am. W35,000 for 30k and W30,000 for half and 10k. Sign up by September 2nd. 1566-1936

Animaris Percipiere Primus 10 x 2.7 x 2 m.

Art Through August 20th MBC Trick Art Trick Art is a new genre of art magic in which a special varnish is placed over paintings to create shadows, reflections, and illusions. Parodies of Van Gogh, Manet, Rembrandt, and others offer cool photo backgrounds. KINTEX in Ilsan. 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000. 02-789-1009

Art Through October 17th

Theo Jansen “Animals Modular” Exhibition


Evolution is getting a jump start with Theo Jansen, the Dutch kinetic artist-engineer-architect who has spent the last twenty years, in his own words, “creating new forms of life.” Sometimes referred to as the Leonardo da Vinci of the 21st century, Jansen uses simple and inexpensive ingredients—cable ties, plastic tubes, tape—to create massive moving skeleton-like structures that use the power of the wind to walk by themselves. The family of beasts has evolved through eight generations, with each individual design receiving a whimsical, pseudo-scientific name such as “animaris vulgaris” and “animaris currens ventosa.” In the future, Jansen hopes to give his creatures rudimentary intelligence and allow them to roam free on the beach. You can see these fantastic testaments to human ingenuity and creativity at the Gwacheon National Science Museum, Seoul Grand Park St. (line 4, exit 5). 9:30 am – 8:30 pm. Adults W13,000 and students W8,000. 1566-0329

Through August 29th Fifty of Korea’s Talented Artists: Exploring Contemporary Art This exhibit will guide you through sculpture, painting, video, photography, installation, and pop art in Korea today. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 10 am – 6 pm. W10,000 Through September 5th Color x Art x Play x 2 Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Tues - Thurs, Sun 10 am - 6 pm, Fri - Sat 10 am - 8 pm. W5,000 - W6,000. 031-960-9730 Through September 26th Painters Who Had to Leave Home Commemorating the 60th anniversary of the Korean War with works by artists of the time. Aram Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Jeongbalsan St. (line 3, ex. 3). W3,000 W5,000. 031-960-0180 Through October 3rd In The Shade of Language Pieces on loan from the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art. National Museum of Contemporary Art. Adults W5,000, teens W2,500 Through October 10th Asian Realism Featuring works from artists in ten different Asian countries. National Museum of Contemporary Art Through October 31st Jangheung Art Market: JAM This innovative new art market offers original paintings, pictures, crafts, and objects d’art for viewing and buying. Jangheung Art Park in Yangju. Held on weekends and public holidays. 11 am – 6 pm. 031-877-0500 August 6th – October 14th Contemporary English Art Exhibit Get better acquainted with the English art scene with the winners of the John Moores Contemporary Painting Prize. Seongnam Arts Center. Adults W4,000, teens W3,000, children W2,000

Noridan Eco Parade

Theater & Dance

Theater & Dance August 14th – 22nd

Hwaseong Fortress Theater Festival Enjoy a week of plays and performances against the stunning backdrop of Hwaseong Castle in Suwon. In addition to plays put on by talented troupes around Korea and other countries, Suwon locals are also encouraged to take part in the performances. With shows ranging from nonverbal through ballet to traditional plays, spectators are sure to find something just for them. There will also be acting workshops and seminars, but you probably shouldn’t bother with those unless you’re proficient in Korean. Main events are held at Hwaseonghaeng Palace, Hwaseo Park, KBS Suwon Art Hall, and other sites. Performances cost W15,000 for adults and W10,000 for students. 031-238-6496

Through August 22nd Jack the Ripper A musical mystery thriller about the 1888 serial murders in London’s East End. Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. Tues Thurs 8 pm, Fri 3 & 8 pm, Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 7 pm. W30,000 - W110,000 August 7th – 15th Welcome, Mom: The Musical Teens in a foster home dream of one day becoming actors. Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. Tue & Thu 3 & 8 pm, Wed & Fri 8 pm, Sat & Sun 3 & 6 pm. W30,000 – W50,000 August 13th Gachi Queens Fantastic Belly Dance Every Friday night witnesses an artistic performance at the Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. Free

August 14th Jump: Nonverbal Performance Hilarity ensues when thieves sneak into a household of martial arts experts. Hwaseong Art Hall. 3 & 7 pm. W20,000 – W30,000. 031-267-8800 Saturday Show: A Night of Korean Dance Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. Free August 21st The Magic Flute: Family Opera Concert This production of Mozart’s final composition is accompanied by a lecture on the opera (in Korean). Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. 5 pm. W15,000 – W20,000 August 27th Passionate Nanta Project: Drumming A powerful percussion performance. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. Free August 27th – 29th Aida: The Opera This tragic opera pits Egyptian general Radames’ loyalty to the Pharaoh against his love for the prisoner Aida. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. Fri & Sat 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. W20,000 – W150,000 August 28th The Bremen Town Musicians: The Musical The classic tale of four animals who set out together in search of their fortune. Hanam Arts Center. 11 am, 2 & 5 pm. W20,000 – W30,000

Concerts August 1st “Forest Piano” Concert The score of the popular Japanese animation Forest Piano will be performed by the Millennium Philharmonic Orchestra with special guest Toyota Yoko on the piano and Dae-myeong Jo conducting. Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. 3 pm. W40,000 – W80,000 August 8th Asia Philharmonic Orchestra Beethoven’s Symphony No. 6 and Brahms’ Symphony No. 4. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W30,000 – W70,000 Gayageum Quartet As part of the weekly Sunday gugak performance, four talented Korean ladies will play the gayageum at the Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 6 pm. Free

VENUES Gyeonggi Arts Center Suwon. Free. ggac. or.kr031-230-3440 Hanam Arts Center 031-790-7979 Incheon Culture and Arts Center near Arts Center Stn. (Incheon line). 032-427-8401 KINTEX Goyang Daehwa Stn. (line 3, ex. 2) 031-810-8114 National Museum of Contemporary Art Seoul Grand Park St. Weekdays 10 am – 5 pm, weekends 10 am – 8 pm, closed Mon. Free. 02-2188-6000 Oulim Nuri Arts Center Goyang Wondang Stn (line 3, ex. 4) 1577-7766 Seongnam Arts Center near exit 1 of Imae St. on the Bundang line. 031-783-8000 Uijeongbu Arts Center 031-828-5841

August 12th Sand Animation Concert: “Journey through the Sea and Planets” Watch this unusual form of performance art as the Incheon Symphony Orchestra plays Debussy’s La Mar and Holst’s The Planets. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 5 & 8 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 13th Classical Guitar: Family Musical Journey With the Rhee Yeo Seok Guitar Orchestra, the Yun Gil Hun Yodel Club, and the Geonguk University Guitar Ensemble. Incheon Culture and Arts Center. 4 & 7:30 pm. Adults W15,000, students W10,000 August 14th – 22nd Suwon Summer Festival Suwon, the suburb just below Seoul, mihgt bring to


August 18th Shanghai Sinfonietta Mozart’s Don Juan Overture, Piano Concerto K271, and 41st Jupiter Symphony. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W15,000 August 27th – 28th “Vibe in Prague” Concert R&B duo Vibe returns to the stage after a four year break. Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. Fri 8 pm & Sat 7 pm. W55,000 – W88,000

Family & Community Ongoing Saturday Performance at Hwaseong Head down to Hwaseong Castle in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Every Saturday at 2 pm. 031-251-4435 Through August 22nd Kori the Magician: Magic Musical for Children More than mere magic tricks, this show adds a plot and musical numbers to the sleight of hand and tricks of the eye. Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Tue – Sat 2 & 5 pm. Sun 3 pm. Dark Mondays. W20,000 Through August 29th Incheon, Come and Play! Exhibit Kids can learn more about the city of Incheon through this interactive exhibit. Incheon Metropolitan City Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W400, children free. Closed Mon. 032-440-6750 Rainbow Playground Let your kids creativity run wild as they touch, see, and play with colors at this experience zone. Seongnam Arts Center in Bundang. 10:30 am – 7 pm. W12,000 Seoul Land Water Wars Darth Vader sets aside the light saber for a wetter weapon at this Seoul Land event. Every day (except Monday) at noon and 2 pm, battle the baddies with your water gun. Held at the World Plaza

in Seoul Land near Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4). Through August 30th Red Clay vs. Mud Festival Bring some throwaway clothes and get down and dirty at the Wind Bird Village. Admission is W6,000 with W3,000 for additional activities. Lunch is W5,000. 031-663-5453 August 10th – 22nd Don’t Try This at Home: Kids’ Science Fun The entertainment of a play and the education of a science classroom meet in this ingenious performance. Korean ability required. Uijeongbu Arts Center. 11 am, 2 pm. W15,000 Through August 20th “Blue Frog” Indoor Water Festival Kids will have the time of their life with a swimming pool, pedal boats, air bounce, tyke train, and bubble show. KINTEX in Ilsan. 10 am – 6 pm. W17,000. 031-969-5518 Through August 22nd Hantan River Water Festival The Hantan River Resort in Yeoncheon-gun has the solution for the heat wave with five big pools, three slides, and more water fun. 10 am – 6 pm. W12,000. 031-832-0982 July 1st – August 31st Yangpyeong Village Water Festival Dig up a potato and then jump in the mud this summer at the Yangpyeong Farming Experience Village. 031-774-5427 August 6th – 7th Incheon Wangsan Ocean Festival From a beer chugging contest to a romantic concert on the beach, this show spans all of your seaside options for a good time. Around Wangsan Beach. 032-431-6200 August 12th – 15th Mom and Baby Expo Fall 2010 KINTEX in Ilsan. 10 am – 6 pm. 02-2236-2771

that the museum doesn’t have to be boring. The story will take kids back to Goguryeo at the dawn of Korean history. Korean required. Hanam Arts Center. 11 am, 2 & 4 pm. W20,000 August 18th – 20th Nano Korea 2010 This huge exposition is dedicated to a tiny topic. Businessmen and engineers in the field won’t want to miss the International Nanotech Symposium, International Nanotech Exhibition, Microtech World (Laser Korea), and Printed Electronics Korea. KINTEX in Ilsan.

Dine & Drink Through August 31st Blueberry Expo Korea It’s only been 10 years since blueberries were first cultivated in Korea, and there are already a 1000 farms raising the delicious fruit. Held at the Farming Exhibit Hall in Namyangju. 10 am – 5

gyeongGI province Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm,  031-443-3731 Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809

KBO Baseball All games held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns. 1st vs KIA Tigers 5 pm 6th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm 7th – 8th vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm 10th – 12th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 17th – 19th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm Frog and Toad Ilsan On La Festa’s main strip, Frog and Toad is a favorite for darts and the Wednesday late-night open mic. frogandtoadilsan@hotmail. com 010-9950-7399 West Island Ilsan Have a chat with the friendly staff or kick back and watch the fire show on Fri and Sat. 6 pm – 5 am.  031-917-2225


August 26th – 28th SENDEX: Expo for Seniors and People with Disabilities 031-810-8149

US Armed Forces Network Dongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3 Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3 Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5 Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5


Education & Conferences


Through December 31st The Bible Expo The Good Book is the theme of the art, activities, and exhibits displayed in the spacious Songdo Central Park. Outside of Central Park Stn. (Incheon line 1, ex. 4). W15,000 at the door, W13,500 in advance. 02-541-1100

La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub with great outdoor seating all set for the summer months. 7 pm – 4 am.  010-2327-8882 First Nepal Restaurant Incheon Bringing you the authentic flavors of India and Nepal.  032-525-8771

August 14th – 22nd Night at the Museum: Goguryeo Edition Like the movie whose name it borrows, this play attempts to show

Sports & Fitness


August 13th – 15th Siheung Gaetgol Festival Learn more about the unique ecosystem of the unusually long inlet (gaetgol in Korean) found at Siheung. 031-310-6741

August 13th – 22nd Korean Students Invention Expo Clever youth submit their creations and inventions at this expo. 02-3459-2752

July 30th - August 1st Yangpyeong Neobeunyeoul Freshwater Fish Festival Stay cool with water-based games and fun found at this festival. “Neobeunyeoul” refers to the wide rapids in this part of Yangpyeong. 031-774-2959

Central America Culture Center Goyang. 031-962-7171 Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju 031-948-3358 Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province).,  031-765-3522 Korean Lamp (Deung-Jan) Museum Yongin 031-334-0797 Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju 031-576-6051

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255 Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000

August 3rd – 8th Korean Science Festival: Science for Dreams KINTEX in Ilsan.

pm. Adults W10,000, teens W7,000, children W5,000. 02-442-2777


The Park Bucheon There are three kinds of draft beer and cocktails for your thirst, Western food for your hunger, and four LCD TVs for your sports fixation. Jung-dong in Bucheon. Facebook group 010-3136-0153 Rhythm & Blues Bucheon Open mic nights, sports, concerts, and parties make this a favorite of Bucheon’s expats. Behind the CGV in Jung-dong. Open at 4 pm on Mon – Fri, 11 am on weekends. Facebook group,  032-323-0161

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store.  031-262-9974 Indie Suwon Suwon Get your groove on at Suwon’s premier live music stage, home of the Suwon Open Mic Night held every 4th Saturday. Facebook group, The Big Chill Suwon Chill out with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang Proud location of the only open mic night in Anyang. Right next to the GS25 just outside ex. 5 of Anyang St. (line 1).  010-7754-0409

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mind Hwaseong Fortress or galbi, but probably not classical music. This year’s Summer Festival may change that with almost twenty concerts for you to enjoy. 14th: Coreana Classica Orchestra. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 14th: Polly Ensemble. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 15th: Quartet 21. 5 - 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 15th: MIOS Philharmonic Orchestra. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 16th: JK (Jewel of Korea) Ensemble. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 16th: “Elektos Essay” Brass Band. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 17th: Korean Philharmonic Pops Orchestra. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 17th: Min-yeong Lee Piano Recital. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 W10,000. 18th: Gyeonggi Phil Chamber Orchestra. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 18th: Nanpa Children’s Choir. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 19th: Yeseong Harmony Orchestra. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 19th: Lee Trio. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 20th: Compass Percussion Ensemble. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 20th: Shanghai Sinfonietta. 7 – 8:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 21st: KoreaChinese Traditional Music Concert. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. 21st: Per Canzone. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 22nd: Trio Ardour. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. 22nd: Yangju Symphony Orchestra. 5 – 6:30 pm. W5,000 – W15,000. Gyeonggi Arts Center in Suwon. 010-9174-7779

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR Film August 12th – 17th

Jecheon International Music and Film Festival

If you’ve ever been torn between catching a flick and hitting up a concert, this is the festival for you. Jecheon, located an hour or two southeast of Seoul, is hosting a film festival, now in its 6th year, that focuses on “rediscovering the unique genre of music films.” These are movies where music is in the foreground, not the background. This year, festival-goers can choose from 71 movies from 25 countries as well as 20 concerts. Programs of note include Meeting Japanese Film Music with Japanese film score composers such as Shinichiro Ikebe (The Eel) and Kenji Kawai (Ghost in the Shell) and the Cinema Concert in which silent films are accompanied by a live orchestra. After the sun goes down, head to the shore of Cheongpung Lake for One Summer Night, the main stage program that combines live concerts with outdoor movies. 02-925-2242 Art Through August 22nd The Muse and Magic: Art of Illusion One important trend in contemporary art has been on the gaze of the viewer and how it can be tricked by optical illusions. Such works are the focus of this exhibit. Daejeon Museum of Art Through September 26th Otto Dix: “War” Exhibit German painter Otto Dix was one of the leading lights of the New Objectivity movement in Weimar Republic Germany. His 50 pieces look back on the brutality he witnessed while fighting in the First World War. Daejeon Museum of Art


Theater & Dance August 11th The Meeting of Romantic and Creative Ballets Kids and adults alike can enjoy the enchanting scenes from ballet classics Pas de Quatre, Sleeping Beauty, and Swan Lake. 10:30 am & 1 pm. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. W10,000 – W15,000

Orchestra will perform Mendelssohn’s Overture to A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Schubert’s Symphony No. 8, and other pieces. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 3 pm. W7,000 August 15th Youth Concert: “Hope and Dreams” Selections from compositions by Beethoven, R. Strauss, Mozart, and others are used to illustrate classical music forms. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7 pm. W10,000 – W25,000 August 19th Prague Brass Ensemble Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W20,000 August 21st and 28th Korean Songs, Korean Dance This outside performance is held at the Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 8 pm.

VENUES Daejeon Convention Center (DCC). 042-821-0114 Daejeon Culture and Arts Center 042-610-2222 Daejeon Museum of Art 10 am – 6 pm. Fri till 9 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W500, minors W300. 042-602-3200

August 17th – 18th Cinderella: Ballet on the Ice Classical ballet meets figure skating when the St. Petersburg National Ballet Troupe on Ice arrives at the Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. Tue 7:30 pm, Wed 3 & 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W50,000

Concerts August 6th – 12th Concerts at the Colorful Summer Festival 6th: Suk-seon An’s Musical Journey. 7th: Havana’s Music Festival, featuring Orquesta Cobana, a Korean orchestra dedicated to performing Latin music. 10th: Midsummer Night’s M4 Concert with M4, a four-man vocal group. 11th: Highlights from the B-Boy Musical Marionette with the B-Boy Group Project Soul. 12th: Romantic Night with La Speranza and the Mento Orchestra. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. Each performance takes place at 8 pm and is free. August 13th Yammo Yammo in Concert All-male a cappella group Yammo Yammo marks its 1000th performance. Daejeon Culture and Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 – W30,000 August 14th Youth Concert: A Midsummer Night’s Dream The TJB Symphony

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August 27th Daejeon Symphony Orchestra: “Masters Series 7” Daejeon Culture and Arts Center

Family & Community

August 15th Buyeo Bugs Country Summer Festival You may not be so fond of creepy crawlies, but your kids will get a kick out of approaching, picking up, and touching insects of all varieties at Bugs Country in Buyeo-gun. Other activities include insect races, water games, and feeding farm animals like rabbits, ducks, and chickens. Buyeo-gun. 041-836-7231 Gongju Gomanaru Festival At the Gomanaru Festival, enjoy the cool evening air while partaking in some fun activities. Held on the shores of the Geum River at the Goma Landing in Gongju, the festival features performances by local artists, singing contests, and family-oriented games. 041-840-2114 August 5th – 8th Chungju Lake Festival Take a day trip to the musical fountain at Central Tower Park in Chungju for games in the water, concerts with popular singers, and more. 043-850-6722

August 7th – 8th Dicu Festival is an online community for those who love anime, comics, and cosplay, and their 14th festival will feature booths manned by anime clubs and more fan art than you could shake a dragonball at. Daejeon Convention Center.

August 12th – 15th Daejeon 0 O’clock Festival This trainthemed festival takes place at Daejeon Station Plaza, the Central Market, and the Oriental medicine street. The subway will run till 2 am for the duration of the festival. 042-250-1395

Education & Conferences August 19th – 22nd Daejeon Architecture Exposition The ongoing four rivers project and the development of Sejong City near Daejeon make the city a prime spot for an architecture expo. Daejeon Convention Center. 042-538-4002

Dine & Drink August 7th – 8th Jochiwon Peach Festival Pick your own peaches near the Sejong Campus of Korea University. Yeongi-gun, Jochiwoneup. W10,000 per person or W25,000 per family. 041-865-2156 August 26th – 29th Goesan Red Pepper Festival Perhaps the one time when you actually can pick a peck of pickled peppers. Festivities

include the Pure Pepper Cup archery tournament, a tadpole-catching contest, and a marathon. At the Damokjeok Stadium and the Culture and Athletics Center. Goesan-gun. 043-830-3114

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball All games held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanhwa Eagles 6th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 7th – 8th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 10th – 12th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm 20th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 21st – 22nd vs SK Wyverns 5 pm K-League Soccer at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 28th Daejeon Citizen vs Jeju United 7pm

Travel Summer Retreat at Musangsa Temple If you have experience with meditation and want to immerse yourself in the life of a Buddhist monastery, consider applying for one of these week long retreats. This month’s retreat begins on August 14th. Details on the English site. 042-841-6084 Golden Wave Taean 


Medical Services

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE Religious Services Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan  041-736-1002 Presbyterian Church Cheonan  041-675-2008 Central Presbyterian Church Gongju  011-382-1862 Sanseong Church  042-585-8111 Daejeon

Classes Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheongun Dye clothing or make natural soap.  043-733-0978

Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon 042-600-9978 Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500 Spain House Spanish, Cheonan  041-571-7474 Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju  043-215-3311

Live Music Venues Barker’s Live Bar Gyeryong  Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 

042-841-0470 042-223-7117



Kumdori Land Daejeon 042-862-4000 O-World Amusement Park Daejeon 042-580-4820

Rolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824 MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook.  043-273-8366 Road King Cheongju  010-8301-5936 Blue Moon Cheongwon  043-285-0399 Brickhouse Sports Bar & Grill Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook,  010-9867-0921 J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721 Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook,  042-825-5500 The Shisha House Daejeon042-825-4157 Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

Hotels/Accommodations New Korea Hotel Asan  041-542-8151 Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-543-2141 Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100 Yuseong Daejeon  042-822-9591 The Sky Blue Bird Seosan 011-382-1862


Wandering in Wando This summer, the road less taken leads to Wando County in South Jeolla Province. Words a n d shots by Si mon B on d


the beach is bustling with tourists, rubber rafts, boat rides and other entertainment. But it’s just as beautiful if not more so during the off season when it will feel like you have the whole paradise to yourself. The beautiful island of Cheongsando, one of Korea’s six “slow cities” in the Cittaslow movement, has been used as a set for popular Korean dramas such as Jumong. The ferry to the island is about a one-hour journey and will set you back W7,500. You can even load your car on the ferry, if you’re lucky enough to have one. If not, you can hire a bike in Wando before boarding or rely on the buses (and your own two feet). The island has stunning rural scenery indeed in the village of Dangni. A lot of the roofs are painted red to add to the picturesque setting, a filming location for the Korean drama Spring Waltz (봄의 왈츠, KBS2, 2006). The center of the island is filled with farms and stepped rice fields. A walk through these can be rewarding as the locals are very friendly and may even invite you to eat with them. Cheongsando also has several main beaches to enjoy. A nice one at sunset is Jiri Beach, about a 30minute walk from the ferry terminal. The ferry terminal is also a good place to find accommodations with several affordable motels in the vicinity. When it’s time to get ready for the trip home, you may wish


o you’re bored with Bor yeong, you’ve had it with Haeundae, and you’re on the lookout for something out of the ordinary this summer? Try Wando County in South Jeolla Province for one of Korea’s most exotic vacation spots. With mountains to climb, islands to hop and long sandy beaches to comb, it’s an ideal holiday destination. Though there are plenty of places to see there, in this article I’ll focus on Wando itself as well as the smaller island of Cheongsando to the south. If you’re spending the weekend at Wando, consider traveling down on Friday evening to maximize your time there. Arriving late in the evening shouldn’t be too big a problem as there are plenty of motels to stay at starting at W30,000. The city itself is something of a visual treat at night with a laser show at Wando Tower and the illuminated bridge linking Wando and Sinjido. It’s a little bit of a climb up to the tower, but the views from the top are spectacular both by day and night. If you have two days in Wando, spend one exploring the town and then hit up one of the nicest beaches in Korea. You probably haven’t heard about Myeongsasimni Beach (명사 십리해변) on Sinjido, but once you stroll down this beautiful four-kilometer strip of sand, you may well question the need to visit Thailand. During the peak season,

From top: The beach on the island of Sinji, The island of Bogil-do is another day trip from Wando, A meal with the friendly locals - Cheongsan-do, The ferry takes people from Wando to Cheongsan-do

you had more time to continue exploring Wando County, but don’t fret too much. There’s always next summer. The easiest way to Wando from Seoul is by bus. Seoul dwellers can head to the Express Bus Terminal (line 3, 7, 9) to start their journey to Wando-gun (W33,000). G e t ti ng th e r e

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JEOLLA CALENDAR Through August 8th Jeong-ung Ha’s Young Artists “Light 2010” Exhibit This exhibit brings together innovative works by young artists who represent the future of Korean art. Gwangju Museum of Art Through August 19th Augury of Resonating Music Fifty Korean and Japanese works donated by Korean-Japanese art collector Jung-woong Ha. Gwangju Museum of Art Through August 22nd Venice Glass Fantasia Venice is celebrated for its glass art, and the pieces on display here from the studio of Pino Signoretto are some of the finest of their kind. Gwangju Museum of Art

Homi Society Exhibition These 27 paintings by elementary and middle school teachers depict the landscape of North Jeolla Province. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 016-450-9279 Mariana Baraj (Voice, Percussion) from Buenos Aires, Argentina


August 26th – September 2nd North Jeolla Art Fair In this art fair, around 480 pieces by 32 artists are on display (and sale). Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. VENUES 063-276-9475

Gwangju Museum of Art 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W500, teens W300, children W200. 062-510-0149

Kim Daejung Convention Center Gwangju 062-611-2000 Sori Cultural Arts Center Jeonju 063-270-8000

Through October 3rd Let’s Play with Picture Books This exhibit gives children a chance to browse through colorful storybooks and meet fascinating characters. Gwangju Museum of Art July 30th - August 5th Nude Croiquis Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-9869-5325 August 6th – 12th I-sun Jeong Private Exhibit Around forty pen drawings on display. Sori Cultural Center in Jeonju. 010-7309-0365 North Jeolla Watercolor Association Exhibit This association composed of painters who mainly work in the Western style presents more than forty of its members’ works. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-2624-4211


North Jeolla Women Concrete Artists Exhibit Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-3900-2646 Roof Society: “Sharing Culture” Exhibit Around 50 paintings and sculptures. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-3650-6372 August 13th – 19th Bihyeon Exhibition Oil paintings, pastels, and watercolors. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-7100-7351 Folk Artists Association: “Standing Outside the Road” Exhibition In these works, the artists take a long, hard look at themselves. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-2631-7907 Jeong-sun Kim Solo Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-7619-0890 Sunlight Society Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-8451-6812 August 20th – 26th Byeong-uk Choe Solo Exhibition Thirty pieces of Korean-style paintings. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 011-9646-6452

August 27th – September 2nd The Beautiful World of Buddha: Ju-yeon Jo’s Solo Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 011-671-3782 BISA Exhibit: “The Meeting of Teacher and Student” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-3655-3885

Elite Artists in the Western Style Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-5590-5435 Persistence and Diffusion: “New Age” Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 010-3652-4225

Theater & Dance August 7th – 8th The Little Dragon: English Play for Children LATT Children’s Theatre, Korea’s only English-language theater company, presents a return season of the acclaimed musical The Little Dragon. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 1 & 4 pm. W30,000. 36 months and older. 02-5600-999

Concerts August 7th Amuser Oboe Ensemble Pieces by Boismortier, Mozart, and Beethoven. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 6 pm. 010-3159-2679 August 10th Tree Sound Clarinet Ensemble Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. 010-9436-9702 August 11th Yammo Yammo Concert This all-male “comic classical” group recently held its 1,000th performance. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm August 12th Piano-Echo in Concert Performing the chamber music of Schumann. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 2 & 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 010-9454-4664 August 13th So-yeon Park Piano Recital Playing selections from Haydn, Liszt, and Chopin. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000 August 14th Bobby Kim on Tour: “My Soul” Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 3 & 7 pm. W66,000 – W88,000

“Color of Water” Watercolor Society Exhibition Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 10 am – 6 pm. 010-7212-8488

Saturday Show: Jamstick This fusion percussion group throws classical, jazz, and even show tunes into their dynamic drum performance. Their motto: if you can beat it, it’s music. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 8 pm. Free

Color Rising Society Exhibit Watercolors. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 063-245-2830

August 17th One Heart Horn Ensemble The program features a nice mix of

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August 27th – 29th

Gwangju World Music Festival Add Gwangju to the list of Korean cities striving to become a hub. In pursuit of its goal of becoming a cultural center, Gwangju has spent two years preparing for this huge world music festival. As this is the first year of the festival, there will no doubt be some false notes, but the schedule so far is an exciting one. Artists including Mariana Baraj (Argentina), Sukiafrica (Africa, Asia), Jaleo (France), Maite Hontel (the Netherlands), and Debashish Bhattacharya (India) bring guests a smorgasbord of music to sample. Also of note is the festival’s attempt to encourage collaboration between Korean traditional musicans like samulnori pioneer Deok-su Kim and international artists for special joint concerts. Between shows, head to Geumnanno Street to walk down a “world culture street.” The main events will take place at Pungam Leisure Sports Park. 062-350-2473 Schumann and traditional Korean tunes. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W5,000. 010-9441-8975 August 17th – 19th Summer Classical Festival 17th: German pianist, composer, director, and professor Roland Proll, playing pieces by Schumann. 18th: Children’s concert with the JK (Jewel of Korea) Ensemble, performing pieces by Vivaldi, Mozart, and Mendelssohn. 19th: Shanghai Sinfonietta. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. All concerts at 7:30 pm. W7,000 – W10,000 August 18th Summer Vacation Youth Concert The Jeonju Symphonic Orchestra will perform movements from symphonies by Beethoven, Dvorak, Mozart, and others. If your Korean’s up to the task, you can follow along with the conductor’s explanation of the pieces. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W5,000 August 19th Natural Wind Orchestra Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W5,000. 010-8738-1238 August 20th North Jeolla Wind Orchestra Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. Adults W10,000, students W8,000. 011-650-2280

August 20th – 21st Gwangju Youth Music Festival Here’s a festival made not only for youth but also by youth. The main performances will be held on Saturday from 2 – 9 :30 pm at Yeomju Sports Complex. 062-376-1324 August 21st Jeonju Soloists Pieces by Bartok, Bach, and others. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W10,000. 010-8647-2821 August 22nd Jeonju Iris Flute Ensemble Compositions including Chopin’s Polonaise and Holst’s The Planets, arranged for flutes! Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. Adults W10,000, students W5,000. 010-5473-9274 August 26th A Night of Songs and Arias Suncheon City Choir. Suncheon Culture and Art Center. 061-749-3516 August 27th Young Flute Ensemble Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7 pm. W10,000. 010-4652-2522 August 28th DJ DOC on Tour Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 7:30 pm. W44,000 – W88,000. 1644-5502

EDITOR’S PICK Family & Community August 7th – 15th


38th Gangjin Celadon Festival

The elegantly proportioned vase dyed a subtle shade of blue that you saw in a Korean museum somewhere was probably celadon pottery, the subject of this festival. The August 29th Saerasae Clarinet Ensemble Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju. 5 pm. W10,000. 010-7177-0823

Family & Community August 17th Magnolia Festival Performance art, installation art, flower painting exhibitions, and a tea ceremony. Cheongha-myeon in Gimje. 063-543-1248

Through August 27th Free Movie Screenings in Gwangju Each Friday night this month, the Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju will be showing free movies on the outside stage. Most of them will be in Korean, but the English-language option for the month is Up (8/27). 062-611-2228 July 28th – August 1st Jeongnamjin Aqua Festival Enjoy various water-related events such as a traditional Korean rafting, rowing, and swimming contest. Pools and waterplay areas will be present and there will be performances by the Indian band Apachi and a Chinese circus. Located along the Tamjin River in Jangheung. 061-863-7071 July 30th - August 3rd Mokpo Ocean Culture Festival The five days of the festival are filled with tons of events including the Ocean Fountain Concert, Korea B-Boy Festival, and the National Windsurfing Festival. Satisfy your seafaring curiosity with a cruise ship tour and a yacht ride or stay on dry land to browse through the Ocean Culture Photo Exhibit. Events held at the Hadang Peace Square. 061-270-8441

August 5th – 8th Korean Lotus Industry Festival With a delicate flower above and an edible root below, the lotus is a surprisingly useful plant. Muan-gun. 061-450-5226 August 8th Gaemaegi Fishing In this traditional fishing method, locals wait till the tide comes in, block the entrance to the shallows with a big net, and then the creatures left behind when the water recedes. Bring a fishing net and a container for the fish, along with the right clothes and boots for wading around. Jangheung-gun. Noon. W5,000. 061-860-0224 August 12th – 15th MBC Wedding Expo If you’re planning on getting hitched yourself or just curious how Koreans do it, you’ll enjoy this expo at the Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju.

Education & Conferences Ongoing GIC Talks The Gwangju International Center organizes a lecture in English nearly every Saturday from 2:30– 4 pm. Typical speakers include professors, writers, and diplomats. See website for this month’s lectures. 062-226-2733 Through August 23rd

17th – 19th centuries in Japan. Add to the fun with an indoor ice ring, open for the duration of the exhibit (W5,000). Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. Weekdays 10 am – 7 pm, weekends 10 am – 9 pm. W12,000 for the exhibit, W15,000 for exhibit and ice skating rink. 02-2636-3471

Dine & Drink Late July - early August Tamjin River Sweetfish Festival Dunchi Park on the Tamjin River in Gangjin-gun. 061-430-3191

Sport & Fitness KBO Baseball All games held at Gwangju Stadium home of the KIA Tigers 3rd – 5th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm 6th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 7th – 8th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm 13th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm 14th – 15th vs Lotte Giants 5 pm 20th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 21st – 22nd vs Samsung Lions 5 pm July 31st - August 1st Yeonggwang Mud Marathon Festival It’s too late for the marathon, but not for other mud-related events include a mud treasure hunt, mud eel fishing, and mud face painting. Don’t leave without getting a taste of gulbi, Yeonggwang’s specialty food. 02-521-1704 September 12th Naju Geumseong Mountain Trail Marathon 5k, 11k and 24k at the Dongsin University Stadium in Naju, to begin at 9 am. W20,000 for 24k and 11k and W10,000 for 5k. Sign up by August 15th. 019-617-1474

Karakuri Ningyo: Japanese Robot Art Karakuri were the whimsical mechanical automata created in the

To list an event, e-mail

Gwangju International Center  062-226-1050

Religious Services Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonju 063-274-3228 Iri Joongang Church Iksan  063-851-4311 Musangsa Muan-gun  042-841-6084

Museums Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000.  063-560-2576 Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000.  063-859-4641 Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. 063-232-2500 Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. 063-287-6305 Jeonju Traditional Cultural Center 063-280-7045 Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. 061-294-3655 Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. 061-270-8480

Hotels/Accommodations Gwangju Youth Hostel  062-943-4378 Ramada Plaza Gwangju  062-717-7000

Radio TBS eFM Gwangju  FM 98.7 US Armed Forces Network Gunsan  AM 1440/FM 88.5 Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets First Nepal Restaurant 062-225-8771 Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-theborder favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas., Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hardto-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave.  062-232-2626

Live Music Venues Bars/Lounges/Pubs Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group,  011-9437-0208 Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays.  019-9646-1028 Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean.  018-607-6321 Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon.  010-4713-3825 San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latinthemed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, 061-724-2234

10 Magazine August 2010 | 65


Through August 22nd Play Museum This exhibition is a place for children to foster creativity through hands-on play. Sori Cultural Arts Center in Jeonju

Foreigner Assistance

complex techniques of firing and coloring celadon were imported from China around the 9th century and subsequently improved by craftsmen in the Goryeo Dynasty. The center of celadon production at its peak was Gangjin-gun, the source of nearly 80% of the top-quality celadon remaining today. Conf lict and violence brought down the industry, but sixteen kilns remain active there today. At this festival, recognized as one of Korea’s best for nine years in a row, you can see for yourself how celadon pottery is fired and try your own hand at this ancient art form. In addition, you can take part in exciting concerts, exhibitions, and activities. Keep an eye out for the strangely named “Gangjin Broken Farm Machine Robot Experience” (whatever that is!). Held at the Goryeo Celadon Porcelain Kiln in Gangjin-gun. 1688-1305


Ad Stars: Busan International Advertising Festival Promoting itself somewhat confusingly as the “World’s First Advertising Festival Convergence of both the Online and Offline World,” AD Stars is gearing up for a third year at Busan. Featuring thousands of pieces from more than forty countries, this expo is a chance to see public service announcements and product/service ads that are funny, touching, and original. The “online” part of the festival refers to the fact that the organizers have been accepting entries online all year round–and many of these are posted on the website for you to see. The website (and even the ads) are translated into good English. The main events will be held at the Busan Haeundae Grand Hotel and around Haeundae Beach in Busan. 051-623-5539 Art August 27th – 29th

Daegu International Bodypainting Festival (DIBF) Ready for blasts of color, eye-popping body art, exciting performances and ethnic foods, all in one? Grab some friends and plan to end your summer with a bang at the 2010 Daegu International Bodypainting Festival (DIBF). Services will include face painting, nail art and henna in addition to fireworks, concerts, dance performances, and beauty and food exhibitions. Awards will be presented for make-up, body painting, photogenic models and photos. The festival will be held at the Kolon Field Concert Hall in Duryu Park, a 20minute walk from Duryu Station off line 2. If you want to become a work of art, it’ll cost W100,000 for bodypainting/ W50,000 for fantasy make up. To enter, the fee is W100,000 per team/W50,000 per individual. 053-760-1855  by S h a ro n Ch o i Art Through August 15th Brick: Opening Modern Korea The humble brick is the focus of this extensive exhibit exploring the ceramic, architectural, and artistic sides of the material. Clayarch Gimhae Museum Geum Ryeon San Gallery Exhibition II for Young Artists The work of 10 young up-and-coming artists will be on display at the Busan Metropolitan Art Museum, featuring images of the daily lives of women and everyday scenes. Geum Reyon San Station (line 2, exits 1 and 2). 10 am – 4 pm. Adults W700, Students W300. 051-630-5200 August 1st Arts and Crafts Market Contact Sandy at if

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you have anything you’d like to sell in the market. Buy the Book Café in Daegu.

Theater & Dance Through August 2nd Kijang Gaetmaeul Madanggeuk Festival This festival hosts various cultural stage performances with interactive competitions and games. Sunshine Beach Plaza. Take buses 180 or 188 and get off at the Sunshine Beach Plaza Bus Station. 051-709-4064 Through August 9th Changwon International Festival of Artistic Performance Theatre groups from a selection of Asian countries come together for the 22nd year of this festival to perform historical and cultural works. Masan MBC Hall, Masan 3.15 Art Center and Changdong Arts Theatre towards Dongmasan IC and Changwon.

Concerts August 6th – 8th

Picture the wind racing along the beach, a crowd buzzing with excitement, and a band rocking out on the stage. That’s the appeal of the Busan International Rock Festival, first held in 2000. To be honest, only four of the twenty-three bands (FireHouse, The Haunted, etc.) on the lineup are from outside Korea, but popular local groups like Crying Nut, Windy City, and Superkid make up for the misnomer. Along with the shows on the main beach stage, you can attend the awards ceremony, get some signatures from your favorite group, or stop by the souvenir shop. Dadaepo Beach each day from 4 - 10:30 pm. 051-888-3395 Performance hours vary. Buy tickets in advance online. 055-240-6151 July 30th – August 15th Geochang International Festival of Theater The 205 plays by 45 teams in this festival are supposed to express construction, deconstruction, and reconstruction between nature and humans. Geochang-gun. W15,000 at the door, W10,000 in advance. 055-943-4152 August 2nd - 6th Evening Breeze Parade Enjoy a week of cool evenings with cultural performances. Ko-orong Outdoor Music Hall, Daegu Culture and Arts Center, Seongdangmot Station, (line 1, exit 1). 10 pm. Free

a dragon who learns that he can find a true friend in anyone. LATT Children’s Theatre. Friday 8 pm, Sunday 11 am/2 pm/5 pm. W30,000 per person. Family deals: 3 members/W67,000, 4 members/W85,000. 051-760-1357 August 27th – 28th Gianni Schicchi: The Opera Puccini’s one-act comic opera offers a humorous warning against materialism. Gumi Art Center. 7:30 pm. W10,000 – W30,000. 054-451-3040

August 28th Daegu Dance Company’s “Contemporary Piece with Commentary” A night at the ballet with Daegu’s own ballerinas performing a 50-minute modern choreography piece with commentary. Outside Music Hall at the Daegu Culture and Arts Center, Seongdangmot Station, (line 1, exit 1) VENUES

August 6th - 8th The Count of Monte Cristo: The Musical Alexander Dumas’ classic adventure novel was adapted as a musical by the renowned BEXCO (Busan Exposition composers Frank Wildhorn and Convention Center). and Jack Murphy and first premiered in Switzerland. Main 051-740-7320 Theater at Busan Citzen’s Hall, Bongsan Cultural Center Daegu Moon Hyeon Station (line 2, 053-661-3081 exit 1). W60,000 – W120,000. Busan Citizen’s Hall 051-630-5200 August 14th Rigoletto: The Opera Verdi’s tragic opera about a jester’s vendetta against a duke is held at the Daegu Opera House. 5 pm. W10,000 – W20,000


Busan Cultural Center 051-120

August 28th – 29th The Wizard of Oz: Children’s Play The percussion pros behind Nanta apply their drum wizardry to this wizard’s tale. Sungsan Art Hall in Changwon. Sat 2 & 4:30 pm, Sun 11 am, 2 & 4:30 pm. W30,000 – W35,000

August 29th Street Artist Series The energy and ecstatic movement of B-Boys is Clayarch Gimhae Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Adults W2,000, combined with the elegance and decorum of traditional students W1,000, children August 19th Korean dance. Bongsan W500. Busan Metropolitan Cultural Center in Daegu. 4 & Dance Company’s “A Daegu Culture and Arts 7 pm. W5,000 – W10,000. Center. Closed Mon. Midsummer Night’s Dance 010-5048-6565 Celebration” Busan Cultural 053-606-6114 Center, Daeyeon Station (line 2, exit 3 or 5). 7:30 pm. Daegu Opera House Concerts W5,000. 053-666-6000 051-607-3131 August 3rd, 10th, 17th, 24th, EXCO (Daegu Exhibition 31st August 20th – 21st and Convention Center) Daegu Gugak Troupe Tosca: The Opera Tuesday Performance See Melodramatic and often 053-601-5000 some of Korea’s traditional shocking Tosca remains one Gimhae Arts and arts at this show. Daegu of Puccini’s most popular Sports Center Culture and Arts Center. 8 operas. Daegu Opera House. 055-320-1234 pm. Free Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7:30 pm. Haeundae Cultural W10,000 – W100,000 Center Busan August 10th Suseong Philharmonic August 20th – 22nd 051-749-7651 Orchestra: Matinee Little Dragon: English Sungsan Art Hall Concert 5 – Easy Classic Musical This musical, Changwon 365 Program pieces will performed in English and 055-268-7900 include “The Barley Field,” based on a book series by Suseong Artpia “Bimok,” and “When I Dream” G.K. Farrar, tells a story about Busan MBC Lotte Art Hall 051-760-1357

Daegu 053-666-3300


Film August 11th – 15th

Busan International Kids’ Film Festival (BIKI) The Busan International Kids’ Film Festival (BIKI), the only national children’s film festival, will take place during five action-packed days from August 11th – 15th. The festival’s only competitive portion involves a collection of screen productions by children authors called “Ready~ Action!” Twenty episodes of the collection will be presented alongside films from around the world. Six films will be selected for awards. Participating films will be screened at Democracy Park, Busan Catholic Center, MBC Lotte World Hotel, Dong Myung University and Busan Citizen’s Hall. 051-743-7652  by S h a ro n Ch o i Muhak Hall, Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 11 am. W20,000 August 12th Yoon Beom Cho’s Power Classic: “An Hour of Western Musical History” The program includes works by Vivaldi, Mozard, Handel, Mendelssohn and Tchaikovsky, among others. Nuri Hall, Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 11 am. W18,000

August 17th Busan Philharmonic Orchestra Kids can learn about the families of instruments at this fun concert featuring The Carnival of the Animals by French composer Saint-Saëns. Busan Cultural Center. 11 am & 4 pm. W3,000 – W5,000 August 19th The Music of Seven Musicians Seven talented musicians on the piano, violin, viola, cello and double bass will perform various works during a 95-minute program, including Chopin’s Polonaise Brillante in C major, Op. 3. and Schubert’s Trout. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7:30 pm. VIP W100,000/R W80,000/S W60,000/A W40,000 August 20th 43rd Annual Sinfonia Recital Opera. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7:30 pm. Free

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Introducing My Instrument: Vol. 4 The program includes five musicians and five instruments (clarinet, flute, oboe, horn and bassoon). Haeundae Cultural Center, Jangsan Station (line 2, exit 12). 8 pm. W5,000


August 14th Aehyeonhwe Recital The 90-minute program will include Waltz No. 2 from Jazz Suite by Shostakovich, La Cumparsita by M. Rodriguez, London Trio by Hayden and Canarios by Gaspar Sanz, among others. Ga-on Hall, Bongsan Cultural Center, Banwoldang Station (exit 9). 6:30 pm. Free

August 21st Aedureum’s Rhythm Festival Enjoy a cool evening at the Aedureum Yard with performances by the GASC Wind Ensemble. Gimhae Arts and Sports Center. 7 pm. Free

August 25th Neo Traditional Jazz Trio Jazz musicians Jong Dae Oh, Chang Hun Kim and Seung Ho Yoo met each other through their love of music and released a 7-track album called Introducing Neo Traditional Jazz Trio. Suseong Artpia in Daegu. 8 pm. W30,000 Sung Hee Park’s Pansori Five Madang Nundaemok Haeundae Cultural Center, Jangsan Station (line 2, exit 12). 7:30 pm. W10,000 August 28th Kyeongnam Academy’s 3rd Flute Orchestra Recital Established in 2005, the school’s flute orchestra will perform various classical and contemporary works. Seongsan Art Hall in Changwon. 7:30 pm. Free

Film August 9th - 11th 2010 Evening Breeze Parade Enjoy a couple of cool evenings viewing movies including Day and Night and Robin Hood. Daegu Culture and Arts Center, Seongdangmot Station, (line 1, exit 1). 10 pm. Free

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August 18th - 22nd Daegu Independent Short Film Festival Seomoon Sijang Station (line 2, exit 3). 053-629-4424 August 26th – 28th Busan Expats Film Festival Join in the first film festival organized for expat talent in Korea. Held at the C&C Art Theater in Nampodong. See group on Facebook.

Family & Community Ongoing Drum Circle and Jam Session Every 1st and 3rd Saturday, Buy the Book Café in Daegu hosts a live music event. Join in the primal drum circle at 8:30 pm and stick around for the live music at 9:30 pm.

Family & Community August 4th – 8th

Busan International Magic Festival It shoudn’t take any tricks to get you to this fun-filled festival. With 40 major magicians participating in the gala shows held at 1 - 2:30 pm and 7:30 - 9 pm, this is more than your typical birthday party magic show. Expect lectures, workshops, and Q&A sessions with pros like John Star, David Kaplan, and Shawn Farquhar (current Grand Prix World Champion of Magic), many of whom will be speaking in English. There will also be a competition for amateur magicians if you’re up for testing whether your hands are faster than their eyes. The opening ceremony will be held from Wednesday 8 - 9:30 pm on a special stage at Haeundae Beach, but all other events are held at BEXCO. Admission costs W10,000 (adults) and W8,000 (children), or get in free with gala show tickets for the daytime (W15,000 - W20,000) or nighttime show (W25,000 - W30,000). 051-626-7002 Family & Community August 21st – 29th


World Firefighter Games Bring the Heat to Daegu What comes to mind when you think of firefighters—bravery, burning buildings, red trucks with long ladders, or even calendars? From August 21st 29th, your idea of a firefighter may be redef ined. The 11th World Firefighter Games and 6,000 participants from 40 countries are being dispatched to Daegu to promote a whole different side of the occupation. Contestants will compete in firefighting-related events such as climbing and the stair run as well as showing off their abilities in various sports and games ranging from the firehouse cook off and horse shoes to a triathlon and basketball. In all there will be 75 events at the games, so there’s sure to be something for everyone. Check out the website to see where specific events are being held. 053-601-5185  by M e g a n Pr e e c e 68 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Through August 15th Experience Ice Land with Ppororo A must-go event for fans of Ppororo, Korea’s favorite cartoon penguin. Kids participate in 12 different Pporororelated activity stations. At EXCO (Daegu Exhibition and Convention Center). 10 am - 7 pm. W10,000 - W13,000 Through August 22nd Bugs Play Observe, play with and learn about different kinds of insects through this unique educational experience. Busan Exhibition and Convention Center (BEXCO), take Centum City Station (line 2, exit 1). Children W14,000, general admission W17,000. 051-740-4030 Dinosaurs on the Korean Peninsula Exhibit Another Korean surprise is the prevalence of dinosaurs on the peninsula a few hundred million years ago. Learn more about these prehistoric beasts at BEXCO in Busan. 10 am – 6 pm. W13,000. 1688-3693 Through August 29th Cocomong Green Playground Event Busan Exhibition and Convention Center (BEXCO), take Centum City Station (line 2, exit 1). 10 am – 6 pm. Children W13,000, pre-teens W12,000, group W8,000. 1544-5799 Through September 4th Queen Seondeok Parade Through September, Gyeongju celebrates the first ruling queen of Silla (and also the subject of a popular drama), Queen Seondeok. 3 – 5 pm. 054-779-6770 July 30th – August 1st Yeongdeok Summer Festival Every July, Yeongdeok hosts a summer festival to celebrate its beaches. Take in some fireworks, sand sculptures, and concerts on the sand. 054-730-6114 August 1st - 9th Busan Sea Festival The festival brings together the Busan Hip Hop Festival, Busan Magic Festival, Busan International Rock Festival and skateboarding competition (see separate entries). Festivities will be held at Haeundae, Gwangalli, Songdo, Dadaepo, Songjeong and Ilgwang beaches as well as the Busan Yachting Center. 51-888-3395 August 11th - 15th The Great Battle of Hansan Festival Cultural Yard and Yi Sunshin Park, Hansa Foundation Executive Office. 055-644-5222 Mid August Freshwater Fish Catching Festival At the Han River in Yecheon-gun. 054-654-3801

August 21st – 22nd Busan Comic World There will be contests for the best illustration, funkiest cosplay, coolest postcards, and most talented singing. Busan Exhibition and Convention Center (BEXCO), take Centum City Station (line 2, exit 1). Saturday 11 am – 5:30 pm, Sunday 10 am – 5:30 pm. W4,000. Ulsan Wedding Fair The special exhibit hall in the Dongcheon Gymnasium. August 27th – 29th TBC Honsu Exhibition Honsu refers to the furniture and other goods needed in the home of newlyweds. EXCO in Daegu. cafe.daum. net/wedexpo

Education & Conferences Through August 3rd World Congress of Virus and Infections More than fifty distinguished speakers representing companies engaged in the fight against infectious disease will be speaking at this congress. BEXCO (Busan Exposition and Convention Center). Through August 29th The Science of Space Exhibit Korea’s space program may have taken a hit with the failure of the Naro Rocket, but amateur astronauts will still enjoy this space expo. BEXCO in Busan. 10 am – 7 pm. 051-740-8331 Through October 29th World Confucianism Festival Attend conferences, forums, and tourist outings and learn about Confucian values, culture, art, trades, and lifestyles. Northern Kyungsang District of Busan. 054-851-7186 August 18th - 22nd Indigo Youth Book Fair Indigo is a humanities-focused organization for youth and the arts. The 2010 Busan fair will be held at the Indigo Auditorium (Namchyeon Station, line 2, exit 1), Nurimaru APEC House, BEXCO and Busan Cultural Center. 051-628-2897 August 20th – 23rd Fire & Safety Expo It’s not just fires that the companies at this expo are trying to prevent. Also on display are innovations in safer construction, railroads, gas, and electricity. EXCO in Daegu. 053-601-5364

Dine & Drink July 31st – August 8th Bonghwa Sweetfish Festival Catch sweetfish yourself (or buy them) and grill them on the spot. Recommended activities include water bicycle riding, horse riding, and log crossing battle. Bonghwa-gun. Adults W5,000, children W3,000. 054-679-6321 August 3rd - 5th 10th Ulleungdo Squid Festival The ferry ride out to Ulleung-do can be a bit hairy, but just think of all the squid awaiting you. 054-790-6374 August 4th – 8th Samcheonpo Harbor Gizzard Chad Festival “Gizzard Chad” isn’t your long-lost hillbilly uncle; it’s actually a kind of fish in the herring family. If you miss the free tasting on the first night from 7 – 7:30

pm, look out for the staff handing out coupons for free chad. Near Nosan Park and Samcheonpo Harbor in Sacheon. 055-832-8568

gun. You may need a Korean to help you type in this URL. 합천마라톤 .kr 055-9303877

Mid August Jaesan Watermelon Festival After you’ve eaten your fill of these top-quality high-altitude watermelons, play unusual games such as watermelon bowling. Jaesan Elementary School in Bonghwagun. 054-672-8381

August 21st Gyeongnam FC vs Chunnam Dragons Changwon Sports Complex at 7 pm

August 25th - 27th Myeongji Gizzard Shad Festival Try Myeongji gizzard shad (a kind of fish), watch a cutting demonstration, sample foods and enjoy singing and dancing competitions at the festival. Gangseogu, Busan Metropolitan City. visit. 051-970-4000

Sports & Fitness July 31st - August 1st Hwang River Leisure Sports Festival Games include river volleyball, sand “futsal” (a variant of football), and an open-water marathon. At the Hwang River Leisure Sports Park in Hapcheon-

K-League Soccer

August 22nd Pohang Steelers vs Incheon United Pohang Steelyard at 7 pm August 29th Ulsan Hyundai vs Pohang Steelers Ulsan Munsu Stadium at 7 pm Busan I’Park vs Chunnam Dragons Busan Asiad Main Stadium at 7 pm KBO Baseball All Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants. 1st vs LG Twins 5 pm 10th – 12th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm 20th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm 21st – 22nd vs Doosan Bears 5 pm All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions. 1st vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm 3rd – 5th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm 13th vs Hanhwa Eagles 6:30 pm 14th – 15th vs Hanhwa Eagles 5 pm 17th – 19th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm

gyeongsang province Foreigner Assistance Busan Foundation for International Activities 1577-7716 Geoje Foreign Resident Association 055-687-9332 Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810 Ulsan Online

Busan Ganga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. 051-740-6670

and parties. Downtown Daegu. Open weekends. Café Francesco Italian  053-252-9625 Hami Mami’s American  053-475-5242

Religious Services

Live Music Venues Club Interplay Busan interplaycafe  051-517-4773 Club Heavy Daegu clubheavy96  010-2338-1340 Club Metal Boys Gyeongju

Education Ayurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm.  Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181 Sand Sculpture Classes Haeundae Beach. Every Sun 1 - 3 pm. W10,000.  051-749-7611 Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. megan.deutsch@gmail. com  010-7794-1218

Hotels/Accommodations 4 – 5 Star Hotels Busan Lotte Hotel  051-810-1000 Novotel Ambassador  051-743-1234 Seacloud 051-933-1000 Daegu Novotel Ambassador  053-664-1101 Hostels Busan Arpina  051-740-3228 Zen Backpackers 010-8722-1530



2nd Floor Restaurant 3rd Floor Sports Lounge

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita.  051-747-3069 Kebabistan Russian  051-581-4050 Sunset Lounge American 051-742-2959 Gumi Waegook Cook American 054-444-3775 Daegu Berkeley Italian Hof Street.053-421-8577 Buy the Book Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater,

053-423-4048 The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048

Busan Aligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am.  051-731-3322 Basement Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391 Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well.  011-1757-6349 The HQ Bar Kyungsung’s only foreignerowned bar with sports and dart games. Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae.  051-742-5553 Sosa Bar A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University.  051-513-0070 Daegu Ping Bar Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. 053-422-7708

10 Magazine August 2010 | 69


Bujeon Church Busan 051-807-3331 Suyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500 Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736 Baekangro Church Busan 051-898-3740 Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan  051-640-3445 Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island  010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652 Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island 017-577-3096

Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos.  053-255-7111 Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University.  053-214-1916 Samarkland Russian Daegu station.  053-252-4021 Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices  053-791-5050 South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog. 053-768-7867


estuary of the Hyodon River, where the fresh water and salt water meet. Gaze up at the picturesque lava cliffs towering above you as you ride a teu, Jeju’s traditional wooden boat. Olle trails for hiking and the Tangerine Land theme park are nearby. Located in Seogwipo. 064-760-4625

August 12th – 20th

August 1st Hyeon-u Choe’s “Magic Concert” Jeju Culture and Art Center. 2 & 6 pm. W33,000 – W44,000. 1566-4814

Family & Community August 7th – 8th

Seogwipo e-Sports Tournament

In one of the few countries where becoming a pro-gamer is a viable career option, an e-Sports Tournament is a major event. Korean joystick jockeys go head to head in games like Sudden Attack, KartRider, and FIFA Online 2 for the KeG (Korean E-Games) Tournament. The “street games” give amateurs a chance to show off their skills in Starcraft as well as KartRider for the kiddies and Janggi (Korean chess) for the older crowd. The battle begins at the Seogwipo Citizen’s Center. Sorry, no English website. 064-760-2294 Art

July 31st – August 1st Soesokkak Beach Festival Soesokkak is the name of the scenic

August 13th – 15th Dodu Harbor “Long Water” Spring Seafood Feast Entertaining performances and seafood-related games located around Dodu-dong. 064-728-4951 August 27th – 28th Yongyeon Yabeom Reenactment Your chance to see traditional ceremonies that date back to the Joseon Dynasty. Near Yongyeon Cloud Bridge in Jeju City. 064-728-2714

JEJU ISLAND Religious Services Jeju Anglican/Episcopal Church Sinjeju 010-2500-6780



Through September 26th “Close Encounter” Exhibit This exhibit, which marks the 1st anniversary of the museum, presents artwork representing the “slow life” of Jeju citizens as opposed to the rapid changes in the larger world. Jeju Museum of Art

Nanta on Jeju Island Nanta, the nonverbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000.. ticket. VENUES, 1544-1555

Jeju Culture and Art Center 064-710-7605 Jeju Museum of Art 061-710-4300

Photo and Design Entries in the Jeju Art Contest Jeju Culture and Art Center. 064-753-3287 August 30th – September 4th Korea Pottery Association Exchange Exhibit Jeju Culture and Art Center. 016-620-3706

70 | 10 Magazine August 2010

Family & Community

Pyoseon Beach White Sand Festival This festival gives you reason to get out of Jeju City and check out the southwest side of Jeju Island, where Pyoseon Beach is located. Get into the beach soccer, horseback riding, shore fishing, wrestling matches, movies on the beach, and other activities planned for the three days of the festival. 064-787-0024


Through August 29th “Fantastic World of Dreams” Exhibit If art can touch you, can you touch art? Kids can get a grasp of the visual arts with this entertaining, interactive exhibit. Jeju Museum of Art

August 10th – 14th Architecture Entries in the Jeju Art Contest Jeju Culture and Art Center. 064-753-3287

August 27th Segovia Classical Guitar Concert Songs include “Sarabande” and “Moon River.” Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7 pm. Free. 064-710-9852

August 6th – 8th Iho Teu Festival Those interested in seeing life in Jeju as it used to be will enjoy riding the teu, Jeju’s traditional boat, as well as watching a reenactment of old-fashioned fishing methods. Located in Iho-dong. 064-728-4921

Theater & Dance

Ongoing Heung-su Kim and Gwang-jin Park Exhibit These two Korean painters’ works are featured in the permanent collection at the Jeju Contemporary Art Museum. 9 am – 6 pm. Adults W1,000, students W500. 064-710-7801

August 5th – 9th Yangsangcheol Calligraphy Exhibition Jeju Culture and Art Center. 010-3099-2282

Jeju International Wind Ensemble Festival If you want to really learn what happened at band camp, this is your chance. “Wind ensemble,” after all, is a fancy term for the small-scale concert band often found at high schools. In addition to actual camps for ocarinas and percussion players, there will be dozens of concerts. You might want to skip the elementary school bands, but serious ensembles from Japan, Germany, Spain, and other countries are worth a listen. Also join in the parade through the middle of Jeju City starting at 6:30 pm on August 15th for the ultimate in marching music. Concerts held at the Jeju Culture and Art Center, Jeju Seaside Arts Center, and Seogwipo Cheongnijyeon Falls Outdoor Stage. Excellent English website. 064-722-8704

August 2nd – 3rd Shalom Ballet Troupe Jeju Culture and Art Center. 7:30 pm. Free. 017-348-3575

Concerts August 8th Midsummer Night’s Dream Rock Festival Groove to the music at this rock festival with groups like P.C.P. and The Nameless Band. Jeju Culture and Art Center.

Woodcarving and Engraving Workshop Jeju Museum of Art. Weekdays 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 3:30 pm; weekends 10 – 11:30 am, 2 – 4 pm. Yoga Classes Milana Hall in Shin Jeju. Mon 5:45 - 6:45 pm, Wed 7:30 - 8:30 pm. See the Jeju United Clubs group on Facebook for info on this and other classes. W15,000.

Hotels/Accommodations Hotel Lotte Jeju 5-Star Jeju Hiking Inn Hostel 

064-731-1000 064-763-2380

Medical Services Dr. Chung’s Pediatric Clinic 064-748-1546 Hanna Women’s Clinic 064-711-7717 Pyeonhan Dental Clinic 064-758-2800

Radio Arirang Radio Jeju City: FM 88.7

Seoguipo: FM 88.1

Restaurants Bagdad Cafe Indian.  Dom Jang Japanese.  El Paso Mexican. 

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. 064-739-0845

Bars/Lounges/Pubs 064-757-8182 064-738-2550 064-752-8252

Boris Brewery  Bull’s Darts Bar  Modern Time 

064-726-4141 064-759-5559 064-748-4180


Sponsored by Allied Pickfords Ed i t e d by Dav i d Ca r ru t h

Wednesday, August 4th

Wednesday, August 18th

BIWA Coffee Morning

BIWA Coffee Morning

10 am at Starbucks near Pale de Cz, Paradise Hotel. Thursday, August 5th

SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting New to Seoul or to SIWA? Join this friendly get-together for some helpful tips on enjoying your time here. 10 am at the Seoul Club. W8,000. Tuesday, August 10th

AUSTCHAM Breakfast Forum Details TBA. Grand Hyatt Hotel on Namsan. 7:30 – 9:30 am.

BASS Catch-Up Coffee Catch up with old friends and meet new ones at this monthly British Association of Seoul event. Starmoon Cafe on the ground floor of Fraser Suites, Insadong. 10 am – 12 noon. Thursday, August 12th

BIWA Informal Lunch Noon at Ono’s Bene City.

FKCCI Café du Commerce This is a great chance to expand your network among Francophone Koreans. Hobnob with VIPS in the French-Korean business community while enjoying the traditional French dishes on the buffet and a tasteful selection of wines. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 – 8:45 pm. W24,000. 02-531-6868 Tuesday, August 17th

ANZA Global Café This month ANZA welcomes Min-young Kim, a fashion designer who studied at Central Saint Martins in London and is now running her own label in Seoul. Paris Grill Bar at Grand Hyatt Hotel. 10 am. Non-members W15,000.

10 am at Starbucks near Pale de Cz, Paradise Hotel.

SIWA Coffee Morning With the summer drawing to a close, come out to the Grand Ambassador Hotel to greet old friends and see new faces. 9:30 – 11:30 am. W17,000 non-members. Friday, August 20th

AUSTCHAM Sundowner Relax after a long workday with cool drinks and great company. Location and time TBA. Tuesday, August 24th

BASS Monthly Meeting The British Association of Seoul hosts its monthly meeting at the Seoul Club. Catch up with friends and sign up for BASS events. Members and non-members are welcome at this relaxed morning tea. W14,000 nonmembers. 10 am – 12 noon. Thursday, August 26th

BIWA Informal Lunch Noon at Ono’s Bene City. Tuesday, August 31st

SIWA Karaoke Night Come out for a light dinner and then the main course: a couple of rounds at the karaoke with good company. Quality Mu Karaoke in Itaewon. 7 pm till late. W15,000+. ANZA Australian and New Zealand Association of Korea Austcham Australian Chamber of Commerce BASS British Association of Seoul BIWA Busan International Women’s Association FKCCI French-Korean Chamber of Commerce and Industry SIWA Seoul International Women’s Association

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NETWORKING CALENDAR 10 Magazine August 2010 | 71

Sexy Seoul Words by Sa m a n t h a Di x-H i ll , I llustration by H y eon - seong Ry u


recently had the dubious pleasure of seeing Seoul through the eyes of my 21-year-old son. He has been studying in Wales, and one of the many things I’ve noticed since he left my protective custody is that we no longer speak the same language. When I say “see you later,” he says “in a bit.” If I’m “very” hungry he’s “well” hungry. So when he kept referring to random Korean women as “well fit” I had to assume that I might be missing something. “Fit” to me still means that I’m able to run 10km without breaking a sweat (I’m not) and that I can do 200 sit-ups without stopping (I can’t). Clearly, this is not what my son meant. “Fit,” in his language, means “hot,” as in “sexy.” It seems that Korean women can do something that Western women can’t. And when I say Western women, I mean me. They can do short skirts and high heels, all day, every day. Yes, I know that Western women can do minis and heels, but generally we do it at night or for special occasions. Plus, it takes a lot of mental preparation. And we need a day to recover. But ever since my son started pointing out fit babes, I’ve been paying attention. And now that the temperatures are soaring, it’s hard to miss the miniskirts, shorts, and high heels. I decided to give this look a try. Being well past my sell-by date, when it comes to short skirts I opted for the high-heel daytime look. Nobody loves high heels more than I do, but I’m also smart enough to realize that once I’ve put them on, I need to sit down, cross my legs

as elegantly as my advanced state of inflexibility will allow, and hope for the best. The best being that I will not need to go to the ladies room or have to stand in that horror of all horrors, the buffet queue. A few days later I was walking down the street with my preteen and 21-year-old dragging their feet behind me as only boys who are forced to go shopping with their mother can do. I heard them laughing and knew immediately that I was the source of the hilarity. Funny how mothers instinctively know this stuff. “Mom,” the oldest said, “Walk properly.” “What do you mean ‘walk properly’? I am walking properly.” “No,” he said, “bend your legs or something. You look like you’ve got something wrong with you.” I did have something wrong with me. The balls of my feet felt as if they had been torturously thumped with an iron pole for hours on end, and my lower back was about to succumb to a spasm that might well have been irreversible. Much to the delight of the boys, shopping was abandoned. Maybe I should give the miniskirts a try, but then I’d have to wax my legs and get a tan. The first is painful and the second painfully boring. So perhaps I’ll leave the minis and heels to the fit babes and stick to my beloved jeans and flipflops. Sure, I’ll whip out the heels when the occasion calls for it, but if you’re looking for me I’ll be the one buried deep in a comfy chair with a friendly waiter close at hand. That’s about as fit as this babe’s ever going to get.

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10 Magazine August 2010  

Korea Awaits!