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PAX AMERICANA | CHEF ADAM DORRIS
CUISINE Modern American | www.paxamericanahtx.com | 4319 Montrose | 713.239.0228 HOURS Tuesday – Saturday: 5pm – 11pm; Sunday: 5pm – 9pm; closed Monday
new
seared pork belly
Photography by Erin Hicks
The highly anticipated collaboration of restaurateur Shepard Ross (Brooklyn any brisket like it. Pork belly has Athletic Club, Glass Wall) with partners Dan and Mark Zimmerman along with Chefs been done to death but here, the Brussels, grilled Adam Dorris and Plinio Sandalio opened last month to the delight of Houston food- fermented ies. Dorris, seen most recently running the kitchen at Revival Market with his dinner Japanese eggplant and pecanseries there along with his Ghetto Dinner pop-ups at Grand Prize, shines in the former romesco sauce take it to an entireThai Sticks space with its sexy vibe symbolizing post-war Victory. Modern fixtures and ly new place. A savory tart of butoriginal art by Warhol, Haring and Lichtenstein plus an all-American playlist nod to ternut squash, caramelized 1015s, Taleggio cheese and roasted pear are what dreams are made of. the theme along with the thoroughly modern American fare. For dessert – how about Sandalio’s Little Boy Blue cheese mousse with A constantly changing menu and fussiness toward ingredients extends pear cider sorbet, butterscotch cremeaux, ginger sponge and bacon well beyond “farm to table.” The group is committed to sourcing organbrittle? I do love a dessert with a savory side, and can’t wait to expeic for the “dirty dozen” fruits and vegetables most often noted for high rience more of what’s to come from the “Sugar” section of the menu. pesticide toxicity. Houston organization “Plant It Forward” is growCocktails from the art-deco style bar are distinctive and memorable, ing non-GMO corn for them. Bread will be provided by Common like the fabulous Fig Mai Tai for example. And there’s a completeBond. There’s crazy pickling and fermentation going on here, not ly American wine list, of course. to mention the charcuterie skills Dorris honed at Revival Market. GM Chris Fleischman holds a similar philosophy to Ross’ high Where food comes from is something these boys want you to think level of service and the energy is evident from the moment you walk about. in the door. This is a special place with a team that is collaborating For the cuisine itself, think edgy and comforting at the same time – on a high level and clearly in the zone. It’s fun. It’s delicious. Go. like the “nine-spice” brisket served with potatoes, soured cream, black a savory tart of garlic, 1015 onions. It’s typical Sunday comfort food, yet you’ve never had
butternut squash
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