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More than 15,000 houses, apartments and rooms available on Crete via AirBnB

read the main article... p.3

THE HEADLINES... • Greece-Cyprus-Egypt Summit held in Crete... p.9 •

Incoming Tourism from Scandinavia to Greece Strong in H1, with Crete on top... p.8

Energy investments in Greece to reach 32 billion euros... p.9

David Tennant Joins Emily Watson in Psychological Thriller ‘Quicksand’ on Crete... p.16

Impasse between Athens and Brussels over Crete power linkup


new round of negotiations between the Greek government and the European Commission on the project to hook up Crete to the mainland’s power grid has come to a total impasse. The issue in question regards the rejection by Brussels of the project’s direct concession to a subsidiary of state-owned grid operator ADMIE. The chief of the Internal Energy Market Directorate at the Commission’s Directorate-General for

Energy, Klaus-Dieter Borchardt, who has been handling the issue for Brussels, informed the Energy Ministry in Athens by email that he is putting an end to discussions between them, and is forwarding the issue to European Energy Commissioner Miguel Arias Canete. This latest correspondence by Borchardt came in response to an email from Michalis Nikolakakis, Energy Minister Giorgos Stathakis’s political bureau director, according to... p.7

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photo of the month

Clouds, Sea, Rain Autumn... and the Lonely Umbrella The Venetian Harbour of Chania in 100 shades of gray

by Stratos Solanakis CHANIA POST

Your local free paper by FTP Publications 73, El. Venizelou str., Chania, 73100 Tel. +30 6977 295075 Owner/Publisher: FTP Publlications Web: http://www.cretepost.gr E-mail: info@chaniapost.eu FB: http://www.facebook.com/chaniapost Twitter: @chaniapost Advertising: Chania Post, 73, El. Venizelou str., Chania Tel. +30 6977295075 http://www.ftp-publications.gr DTP: FTP Publications Find CHANIA POST at the following points: CHANIA Municipal Market, Airport, Public Bus Central Station, Old Harbour, Municipal Tourist Information Desk PLATANIAS Central Square Infokiosk, Botanical Park, Italian Factory Outlet and selected shops in Platanias KISSAMOS Gramvousa and Balos boats, Elafonissi, Falassarna KANDANOS-SELINO Paleochora Info Desk, Sougia, Kandanos SFAKIA Hora Sfakion Infokiosk, Loutro, Agia Roumeli, ANENDYK boats APOKORONAS Georgioupolis, Kavros, Vamos, Kalyves, Vrysses ...and also in more than 100 points throughout Chania Prefecture!

the main article

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Survey shows that Attica, South Aegean and Crete Account for Majority of Greece’s Airbnb Listings

The regions of Attica, South Ae-

126,000 homes or properties begean and Crete account for 60 ing leased out as accommodation percent of all Airbnb listings in through Airbnb’s platform. Greece, according to a survey re- The KEPE report, which assesses leased by the Center of Planning data from AirDNA analytics, notes that home sharing practices for and Economic Research (KEPE). The study reveals that in the first half of 2018, there were over 5,000 listings for each one of the aforementioned regions ranging from 6,474 in the Peloponnese to 30,184 in Attica – accounting for 87.9 percent of the total. Next in line are the regions of Central Macedonia, the Ionian Islands and the Peloponnese, which account for 26.3 percent of all listings tourism accommodation began rein 2018 compared to 13.9 percent luctantly in 2010 only to emerge as one of the largest challenges of the in 2011. Research into the home sharing hospitality sector in 2018. phenomenon in Greece reveals Greece’s remaining seven regions that currently there are more than are on the lower end of home shar-

ing activity accounting for 12.1 percent of the total in the first six months of 2018 with 196 listings in Western Macedonia and 3,880 in Thessaly. On the highest end, the Region

percent in Saronikos, 19.8 percent in Vari-Voula-Vouliagmeni, and 9.8 percent in the Markopoulo-Mesogaia. Southern Attica meanwhile, accounts for 11.0 percent of the total and more specifically Glyfada at 25.2 percent, Paleo Faliro at 18.2 percent and Kallithea at 16.0 percent. According to the report, Greeks post their short term rental listings in a number of platforms besides Airbnb, including TripAdvisor, Booking.com, HomeAway, HouseTrip, Flipkey, 9Flats, Roomorama, of Attica, and particularly central trivago and StayInAthens. Side Athens, which accounts for 53.3 companies meanwhile such as Eapercent of the total listings and 93 zyBnb, GuestEasy, and Airbnb manpercent of which are concentrated agement offer support services. in the City of Athens; followed by Eastern Attica at 19.3 percent: 20.3 news.gtp.gr

More than 15,000 houses, apartments and rooms are available on Crete through the online booking platform of AirBnB


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Serpents Alive A few years ago I was asked to give an ‘Illustrated Talk on the Reptiles of Crete’. So I could connect my computer to the overhead screen projector etc, I arrived at the venue early only to find a power cut for the area. The talk had to be unillustrated. I had taken a large olive bag (used for transporting olives) and placed inside a curled hose from a vacuum cleaner, then tied the bag up. When I started the talk I had left the bag on a chair nearby. I asked how many did not like snakes and then how many were afraid of snakes. The majority of the audience indicated their fear so I went to the bag and said “I am sorry Alice you are going to have stay in there as most people are afraid of you”. I could sense the relief. As I had no notes and no computer screen to control photographs I was able to concentrate fully on the audience. Many kept looking at the bag to make sure it was not moving; I am not sure what they would have done if it did. If we consider the real situation, snakes (excluding perhaps large anacondas and pythons) are far more afraid of us than we are of them. It is also important to understand that venom is expensive for the snake and is needed to catch food. If the snake is provoked it may retaliate and if venomous may inject venom. Snakes may not know our intentions and what may be seemingly nothing to us may seem threatening to the snake. Above I did say the snake may inject venom but this is usually only if the snake feels it is severely threatened and the amount may be minimal. Except for rattlesnakes that provide warnings of their presence most snakes will glide away unnoticed and that is why few are seen. However, because of the lower temperatures and longer nights November is often a good month to see snakes on Crete. There are four species of wild snake on the island and all are extremely

interesting. There is no doubt in my mind that the Leopard snake is the most beautiful of European snakes with its reddish spots bordered with black on a buff body: many people consider it to be the most beautiful of Greek animals. One of its Greek names is σπιτοφιδο (house snake) as it used to be allowed in houses to assist in eradicating rodents. An adult will reach about a metre in length and may live for over 25 years. It is mainly ground-living, hunting especially in rocky areas, usually at dawn and dusk. Small rodents and lizards are the main food and sometimes the prey is constricted. The snake becomes sexually mature at the age of three or four and females may lay between 2 and 6 eggs every two years. The eggs hatch after about 6 to 9 weeks and the youngsters appear as small versions of the parents. The young of the Dice snake are very difficult to see when they are

at the edge of a pebbly stream but again beautiful snakes. The adults that are usually greyish or brownish often have some spots down the back but much lighter on the underneath (camouflage for any prey looking towards the bright sky). They grow to about a metre in length and can be seen hunting mainly in freshwater. Their diet consists almost entirely of fish but amphibians are occasionally taken. They can be seen in Lake Kournas and Almyros Lake, for instance, as well as in the rivers and streams that run all year. They can be sighted by the sea and they do cause great surprise among people paddling or swimming in the river mouths. There used to be a black adult that lived under one of the bridges at Georgioupoli. My reference book indicates that black individuals are only found at Snake Island in the Danube Peninsula. I haven’t seen this individual for a couple of years but hope he is still around.

by David Capon

The snake that is most often seen is the Balkan whip snake and usually seen crossing roads or tracks. This snake grows to about 1 metre in length and colouring varies but often olive green, greyish or yellowish brown. The head and the area behind can be highly decorated so that if the middle of the snake is hidden from sight there could be initial thoughts that there are two snakes in the same place. It feeds mainly on lizards; occasionally other prey, such as large grasshoppers. Do not be surprised if you see one that has climbed into a bush. Often quite inquisitive and not poisonous they are unhappy when handled and will bite fiercely. The last species is again another beautiful snake but is the only venomous wild snake on Crete. This is a slim snake and although I mention that it is venomous its fangs are at the rear of its small mouth. I am sure you will have seen on television people ‘milking’ venom from poisonous snakes by pushing the fangs at the front of the head into a membrane over a bottle. It is considered that the Cat snake could not get its fangs into a human because of the position and size of the fangs and its slight head. Having said that it is a feisty species and does not like being disturbed – but as the snake prefers to escape this species is rarely seen. Like the whip snake, if handled, it will also try and bite fiercely. It generally hunts at dawn and dusk and during the summer may hunt at night. The venom can kill a small lizard in a few minutes. It prefers areas where there are rocks and stones. Interestingly it is a snake that may stalk its prey, and thus, perhaps, the origin of its vernacular name ‘Cat snake’. Adults reach about 75cm. Although venomous it is considered not dangerous but should be respected. I will use a phrase a friend uses, but change the subject - ‘snakes aren’t scary’ - especially on Crete.


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Mayor Koukianakis: Apokoronas will continue with its animal welfare programme Following

the removal of Mrs Terezaki from the position of animal welfare deputy mayor in Apokoronas, a meeting was held attended by Mayor Koukianakis, Mrs Bobolaki, the chair of the association of Greek animal welfare organisations, the deputy mayor newly appointed for animal welfare, Mrs Noilaki, council workmen and volunteers, to address the concerns of many residents of Apokoronas that the animal welfare and sterilisation programme would be abandoned without Mrs Terezaki who, with the unqualified support of the mayor, was the driving force behind it.

welfare of stray animals in Apokoronas will continue. Issues relating to the everyday running of the existing service were discussed and the Mayor announced the creation of a Stray animals Office and the creation of a register of stray animals in Apokoronas villages. Mrs Bobolaki added in her press statement that she hoped the positive action on the issues of the strays will continue and that the plans the Mayor announced to improve the service will become realThe Mayor assured all those at- and dedicate additional resources ity. tending that the council, far from to ensure that the Municipality’s abandoning its animal welfare pro- outstanding work, especially with ApokoronasNews.gr gramme, its going to enhance it regard to sterilization, feeding and

Kalives – Tsivaras link road upgrade to relieve village traffic problems A

Facebook post from Apokoronas mayor Charalambos Koukianakis announced the long-awaited upgrade, repair and resurfacing of the Kalyves -Tsivalas link road. The road that has not been used by drivers – even those who knew about it – who preferred to brave the heavy traffic and gridlock caused by inconsiderate parking in Kalyves because of its poor state, is given a facelift. Hopefully when it is completed and with the right signage it will ease off in part the traffic problems of Kalyves. However, the link road by itself is not going to resolve all the traffic problems of Kalyves without a well thought out and properly policed traffic management plan. Let’s hope the link road upgrade is the first step to making Kalybes a better place to be – or at least just drive through.

Ellinair stops all flights from Chania Airport

As officially announced by thw

Commercial Director of Ellinair, Mr. Stavros Daliakas, the Greek airliner will stop all flights from “Daskalogiannis” Chania Airport to Thessaloniki and Moscow. Mr. Daliakas explained that, due to strong competition from Ryanair and Aegean/Olympic Air, Ellinair cannot continue its flights. Greek airline Ellinair, began direct flights from July 2, from Chania to

Thessaloniki. The flights were carried out every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday until the end of September, but the airline announced the extension of these flights into the winter. During the presentation of the new routes, Mr. Daliakas had asked for support from the local authorities and the local community and emphasised that “the common goal of the union is to attract other airlines to the city airport.”


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Impasse between Athens and Brussels over Crete power linkup

The new round of negotiations between the Greek government and the European Commission on the project to hook up Crete to the mainland’s power grid has come to a total impasse. The issue in question regards the rejection by Brussels of the project’s direct concession to a subsidiary of state-owned grid operator ADMIE. The chief of the Internal Energy Market Directorate at the Commission’s Directorate-General for Energy, Klaus-Dieter Borchardt, who has been handling the issue for Brussels, informed the Energy Ministry in Athens by email that he is putting an end to discussions between them, and is forwarding the issue to European Energy Commissioner Miguel Arias Canete. This latest correspondence by Borchardt came in response to an email from Michalis Nikolakakis, Energy Minister Giorgos Stathakis’s political bureau director, according to which Athens is sticking to its position, noting decisions by Greece’s Regulatory Authority for Energy (RAE) that the Commission

considers invalid and has asked be amended. The Nikolakakis email also asked that the Commission incorporate its proposals into RAE’s decisions. After reading Nikolakakis’s email, Borchardt wrote that he has arrived at the conclusion “there is nothing left that I could do to further assist” in getting the EuroAsia Interconnector program out of the impasse. He went on to remind Athens that

the Commission has proceeded to a revised and ultimate version of the roadmap for the implementation of the linkup as a Project of Common Interest (PCI) and welcomed the Greek remarks on the original plan that have been sufficiently examined. The European official noted he sees no point in continuing discussions at his level as “we are beginning to repeat ourselves and the Greek

side has started to communicate through the mass media.” He added that he has forwarded the case to Commissioner Canete. The Commission had already warned Greece on Wednesday that if the project is not included in the PCI subsidy program it might cease to be financially feasible, putting its realization at risk. ekathimerini.gr

Greece 5th top exhibitor in World Food Fair in Paris

Greece’s Ambassador to France

Aglaia Balta attended the inauguration of the SIAL 2018 exhibitio, which is the leading food and beverage fair that is held every two years in Paris. Balta, who was escorted by Deputy Agriculture and Food Minister Vassilis Kokkalis and the head of Enterprise Greece Grigoris Stergioulis, said Greece had a strong presence and held the fifth place in terms of

the number of exhibitors, with 275 enterprises from all over Greece present in the fair. The ambassador repeated that Greek enterprises “can do even better, now that the general impression that prevailed in France concerning Greece in terms of the crisis is over. It is true that after the conclusion of the programme in August, they see Greece differently. They view Greece more positively

and everyone believes that they can now do business and cooperate with our country,” she said. According to her, “the key is not only the number of enterprises but also their high quality, which is something we see in every pavilion we visit. Because Greek products are not only good quality but also have good marketing. They will certainly do even better”. Referring to the Greek products that have the highest export inter-

est, Balta added that these are the classic products, such as olive oil and olives, but an effort is underway to increase this range of products. Our aim is to add processed products, as well as products addressed to younger generations. We address ourselves to people interested in a healthy diet and diet, who exercise and take care of themselves. This is the group we are now targeting.”


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Minoan Lines Promotes Chania-Piraeus Route through Digital Campaign Greek coastal shipping compa-

dia – including facebook and youny Minoan Lines has launched tube – through a video, which foa digital campaign to promote cuses on a traveler and his return to its new Chania–Piraeus-Chania Piraeus after having spent his sumroute, conducted since July by mer vacation in his homeland, Chaits Mykonos Palace Cruise Ferry. nia on Crete, as well as his experiTitled “Memories from Chania”, the ence onboard the Mykonos Palace. campaign is running on social me- “The campaign highlights the valuable memories created in Chania,

and the way they are kept alive through the pleasant journey offered by Minoan Lines,” the company said in an announcement. The campaign also promotes the beauties of Chania and specifically its Venetian Harbor, agora and alleys; the landmark Lighthouse; the Venizelos tombs, and shows Crete’s

unique nature such as the Samaria Gorge; the popular Balos beach and the Kedrodasos beach. The Mykonos Palace Cruise Ferry departs daily from the port of Piraeus and from the port of Souda, Crete. The journey lasts six hours and 30 minutes.

Cobalt Air Suspends Operations, Cypriot Ministry Pledges to Help Stranded Passengers Cypriot low cost carrier Cobalt

structed passengers with un-flown Air has announced the indefi- tickets to not go to Larnaca Airport nite suspension of it operations or any departure airport on Ocwith immediate effect. In a state- tober 18 as no Cobalt flights will ment, the airline announced operate and no Cobalt staff will be that it cancelled all flights as of present. “For refunds, please contact your credit card provider or 23:50pm on October 17. In its announcement, Cobalt in- Travel Agent,” the announcement said.

According to local media in Cyprus, the airline failed to complete a deal for funding with a potential European investor. The airline’s main financier was AJ Cyprus, owned by China Avic Joy Air. Launched in 2016, Cobalt Air was offering regular flights to 22 destinations in Greece, UK, Ireland,

France, Switzerland, Germany, Russia, Spain, Israel, Denmark, Lebanon and the UAE, from its base in Cyprus. Cobalt Air had stepped in to replace bankrupt Cyprus Airways, which shut down in January 2015. news.gtp.gr

Incoming Tourism from Scandinavia to Greece Strong in H1. Crete on top


tourism to Greece from Scandinavian countries increased by 10.64 percent in the first half of the year compared to the same period in 2017, with Crete and the Dodecanese as leading destinations of choice. The majority of travelers from the Scandinavian market, which includes Denmark, Norway, Sweden, as well as Finland and Iceland, prefers Crete, the Dodecanese (Rhodes, Kos and Karpathos), Epirus (Preveza, Parga and Ioannina)

and Corfu. Speaking to the Athens News Agency, Pavlos Mourmas of the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO) Sweden branch, explained that this was due to direct flights from Scandinavian cities to these Greek destinations as well as to complete package deals on offer. More specifically, according to Greek airport data, a total of 114,577 travelers from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway visited Greece in the January-June

2018 period. Broken down, 403,933 Swedes, up by 6.5 percent, visited Greek shores with the average visitor in the 55+ age bracket. Mourmas added that many prefer to visit the Halkidiki peninsula and the island of Thassos, adding that in view of the data, Thessaloniki appears to be gaining ground with a major tour operator already having added Thassos and the Olympus Riviera – a 70km stretch of coastline from the base of Mount Olympus and the Aegean Sea – to its tourism offerings for next year.

This could prove to be of great benefit to Thessaloniki, said Mourmas, adding that the Swedes love the sun and the sea, hiking, cycling and sports. The head of the GNTO Sweden office went on to note that promotional actions including fam trips to Thessaloniki and Halkidiki were continuing in the following months as part of the tourism ministry’s efforts to extend the tourism season. news.gtp.gr


p. 9

Greece-Cyprus-Egypt Summit held in Crete


Prime Minister Alexis Tsipras, Cyprus President Nicos Anastasiades and Egyptian President Abdel Fattah al Sisi met in Elounda, Crete, for the 6th Greece-Cyprus-Egypt Summit. The Summit highlighted the high level of cooperation of Greece, Cyprus and Egypt and the enhanced

role that their tripartite and multilateral initiatives have gained in promoting regional stability, security and development in a particularly critical period for the region. According to government sources, regional development, energy security, regional stability in the Eastern Mediterranean, economic co-

operation, as well as the tripartite cooperation on economic, digital and environmental sectors dominated the contacts of the leaders while agreements and memoranda of cooperation were signed. The 6th Greek-Cypriot-Egypt Summit was attended by Minister of Foreign Affairs, Nikos Kotzias, Min-

ister of Energy and the Environment, George Stratakis, Minister of Digital Policy, Telecommunications and Information, Nikos Pappas, Deputy Foreign Minister Terence Quick, Deputy Minister of Economy and Development, Stathis Giannakidis, Deputy Labour Minister Tasos Petropoulos.

Greece is the eurozone’s leader in indirect taxation Greece

has the highest indirect taxes in the eurozone and is showing no signs of reducing them in 2019. This ominous conclusion for taxpayers stems from a comparison of the 2019 draft budgets submitted to the European Commission by the 19 members of the eurozone. According to the figures, special

consumption taxes and the value-added tax will amount to 17.3 percent of Greek gross domestic product in 2019, putting the country in the top spot in the eurozone, followed by France and Cyprus. Greece’s absence of tax justice is also illustrated by another statistical finding: The country has the largest spread between returns of direct and in-

direct taxation, with direct tax revenues expected to come to 10 percent of GDP next year, 7.3 percentage points below indirect tax takings. No other eurozone country will have such a wide spread, which is actually widening as in 2018 it is projected to come to 6.8 percentage points. In the sum of taxes and social secu-

rity, Greece ranks fifth among the eurozone member-states for 2019, only behind Belgium, France, Finland and Italy. The difference is that citizens in the other states get a lot more back: While Finland forks out 2.1 percent of its GDP to protect its unemployed, Greece contributes just 0.6 percent. eKathimerini

Energy investments in Greece to reach 32 billion euros

Investments in the energy sector

are expected to reach 32 billion euros by 2030, excluding investments in hydrocarbon research, Mihalis Verriopoulos, secretary-general of the Environment and Energy ministry said, addressing an event organised by the Energy Institute of South-

eastern Europe on technological developments in the sector. This figure will be included in detail in the energy plan for the period 2020-2030 to be unveiled for public consultation soon, he said. For research-technology-innovation, another parameter in energy planning, the goals set include those of

finding solutions in sectors of energy saving, reducing dependence on coal, digitalisation of networks and smart networks, innovative technologies for the transfer and storage of energy. Verriopoulos said one of the challenges facing research activity in Greece was the small size of research activity and

the small participation of enterprises in research. Spending on research accounted for 1.01 pct of GDP in 2016, while enterprises’ spending on research was 0.43 pct of GDP. The goal is to boost research spending to 1.25 pct and 0.5 pct, respectively, by 2020.


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Visiting Eria is like coming home I’m

pleased to accommodate my friend, editor-in-chief of Chania Post, Pandelis Glailatis’ suggestion to write an article about “Eriaresort” hotel in Maleme, close to Chania. I am a Dane, handicapped after a Stroke (brain hemorrhage) 15 years ago. The stroke bereaved me of my agility – I’m paralyzed in the left side – and of my job As a journalist at the <Danish TV, whom I served for 20 years as a political reporter an correspondent in Berlin. I’m now bound to a wheelchair. Visiting Eria is like coming home. We are taken from (and to) the airport by the Hotel’s trusty driver, Yannis, in the Handibus. Coming til Eria, the staff all give us hugs and ‘wellcome back! ‘Trip Advisor’, the ‘Michelin-guide’ of hotels, recommends the hote. The rooms all have elevation-beds

and air-con, TV and free WIFI. Also a balcony with iView over the Aegean Sea. The bathroom is also adapted to wheelchairs and disabled. There is soap and towels. Let me describe a normal day as I experience it at Eria: The breakfast consists of fresh coffee or tea, bacon and eggs – scrambled or fried, toast, butter and the renowned Greek yoghurt (with a drop of honey. The day starts with my wife going to the pool for a swim. The pool has a ‘Jacuzzi’ (‘water-bubble-massage’). After breakfast, there is often arranged excursions to places of interest in the hotel’s handibus.Some prefer to go on their own to Chania for sightseeing and shopping.

Dinner is served around 7 o’clock. It is delicious and often consists of local products. Meals are eaten outside. In case of inclement weather, meals are served upstairs in a dining-saloon. One evening there is fish from grill – often sea bass that tastes wonderful to fish-lovers. Later in the evening, there is often entertainment. It can be a master pianist, playing popular classics

by Henrik Bach

and modern melodies. One evening every week is ‘Greek evening. The food is traditional Greek. An orchestra with traditional Greek instruments plays and the guests dance under guidance of local, professional dancers. Some guests sit in the pool-bar, called ‘the yellow nail’ because they smoke.

Niki Niolaki: What we are doing for the stray animals of Apokoronas


Municipality of Apokoronas obeys faithfully the legislative ordinances of stray animals’ well-being and protection, as piece of our culture’s evidence. After my assumption of duties regarding the handling of stray ani-

mals, in partnership with the Mayor Mr. Har. Koukianakis , we set in motion the below actions: • There will be an independent office for the handling of stray animals in the Town Hall’s building. Full-time employee will be work-

ing there. Communication telephone:2825340321. • From now on, we will be recording each stray animal around our villages in order to feed and take better care of them with the aid of Municipality’s employees and vol-

unteers. • We allot extra money so as the neutering, hygiene care and the alimentation will be increased. Also, we will help with the necessary buildings’ beautification and upgrade ,so as the animals to be taken care of temporarily there and totally healed. • We will fully protect stray animals so as unpleasant and embarrassing situations will not exist anymore. Animals deserve our attention and we should correspond to this right of them. Apokorona’s Municipality, even there are adversities, is doing its best to deal with the issue of stray animals immediately and effectively, providing human and economic resources, facilities and every useful means that can help with their management. In this difficult activity, we want you to stand by us and not to judge us. We ask from you to continue this road that we have already “opened” for the important issue of the stray animals’ handling. Sincerely yours, Niki Niolaki, Deputy Mayor Responsible for stray animals


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Botanical Park & Gardens of Crete What you have to know for your next year’ visit

Nearly 20 hectares of land are

waiting to welcome you, full of fruit trees from all over the world, herbs, medicinal and ornamental plants in a park different from others, where the land’s formation and the region’s microclimate make it a paradise for hundreds of plants and animals! In the midst of this colorful and vivid landscape stands a burnt centennial olive tree, a memorial and a reference to the dismal fires of 2003, the park’s history and origin. The newest and one of the most interesting sites of the Prefecture of Chania lies only 18 kilometers outside the city, on the feet of the White Mountains. It is ideal for visitors of all ages, combining enjoyments that only Crete can offer! Shortly after you pass Fournes village and before the historical Lakkoi-Skordalou, a sign will direct you towards the Botanical Park, to an unprecedented tour of the region’s magical nature and the creative imagination of the four brothers who dreamt of and realized this unique heaven on earth! When you first see the park and its facilities, it is impossible to imagine that this is the same expanse of the 15-20 hectares which burnt to the ground in the fires of 2003, today literary reborn from its ashes. In the place of the grey landscape stands a walking, educational and entertainment park-unique in its kind in Crete – waiting for young and old, locals and foreigners, to get acquainted with the more than 150 species of fruit trees together with the dozens of herbs, medicinal and ornamental plants it hosts, while enjoying their walk through a lush

natural environment. The secret of enjoying your visit to the maximum is to wander through the paths of the Botanical Park slowly and leisurely, making many stops for rest in the various suitable rest points available. Thus you shall have the opportunity to truly appreciate the beauty which you will encounter. No matter how you see your visit here, whether as a scenic trek, or an interesting tour of nature’s paths, the Botanical Park is the ideal alternative proposal for a day’s escape from the city’s noise and the fashionable beaches. The dramatic scenery here is composed of rare samples of the local flora and fauna, as well as tropical and subtropical species from all over the world, with new samples added daily, changing the look of the Botanical Park and providing visitors with a motive to enjoy it over and over again! This adventure in nature which lasts one to two hours, follows

paths of unique natural beauty and provides visitors with the opportunity to get acquainted with the numerous different plants and trees that grow on the two hundred square kilometers of the well-designed planted hillside. The appropriate signposting of the paths leads the visitor to various sections of the Botanical Park (tropical trees, fruit-bearing trees, citrus trees, herbs and vineyards). The lush landscape is completed by the lake in the lower part of the part, offering accommodation and protection to ducks, geese and other water birds (and rare species), even to hawks that fly in the area. The park also has an open-air, stone atmospheric amphitheatre suitable for small (capacity for approximately 250 persons) events. Depending on the time of the year, you will have the opportunity to enjoy flowers, plants and trees through all phases of their life-cycle, parallel to the various species

of wild flora and fauna which they attract each season. Any time of the year you visit the Botanical Park, you will be impressed by the colors, fragrances and variety of species. During the summer months, the best time to schedule your visit is early in the morning, avoiding the strong heat, and having the opportunity to complete your experience with an excellent meal in the park’s restaurant. Its totally local, organic and seasonal philosophy will be unforgettable. Operating Hours: Twenty-tree of March to Noveber every day: Entrance is allowed starting at 9 am , all through the day , with the last entrance allowed no later than one hour before sunset. • Admission: 6 Euros • Ages 6 to 12: 4 Euros • Ages 6 and under are FREE with parents!

Customers Services Transport for people with disabilities

Baggage Lockers in central bus station

Available free Wi-Fi

Parcels delivery to all destinations


5,10 â&#x201A;Ź

Scan the QR to book online your ticket !


email: info@e-ktel.gr Kydonias & Parth. Kelaidi, Chania 73100 |Information : 2821 093052 |Storehouse : 28210 97497 Kefalogiannidon Street, Rethymnon |Information: 2831 022212| Storehouse : 2831 022659

food & wine

p. 14

A Guide to Cretan Food Like Matt, I used to think West-

ern Crete with Chania was the most interesting and most beautiful part of the island but after I delved deeper in pursuit of recipes for my cookbook, I discovered I really loved just about all of Crete. It simply depended on where I happened to be at the time reminding me of a Greek wine writer who, when I asked which was his favorite wine, replied, the one I’m drinking at the moment. Each corner of Crete has something to offer with the exception of the tourist ghettos at Hersonisos and other places Matt has singled out for scorn and the island is large enough so that specialties in one district may be unknown or at least unfindable in another. Sometimes, to be perverse, the same thing is known under a different name, so that anthotyro and myzithra, for example two similar fresh cheeses have reverse identities in eastern and western Crete. Let’s start with some of the treats featured at tavernas everywhere. One of my favorite starters is dakos chopped tomato (and Cretan tomatoes will remind you what the fruit should taste like, not some watery pale globe from an American supermarket), and xinomyzithra (a tangy salted white cheese) sprinkled with oregano and sitting atop a thick Cretan barley rusk that has been moistened with a little water so it won’t break your teeth, then liberally doused with extra virgin olive oil. Somehow the combination of crunchy, creamy, and juicy wakes up your palate and never fails to please. Here I should add a parenthesis about Cretan paximadia, inadequately translated as rusks. These are twice baked breads that may vary from brick-like slabs or bagel-shaped rounds of whole-grain barley flecked with bran, so big they can be used as a plate, to various mixtures of wheat, barley and rye, to small sweet biscuits flavored with cinnamon, aniseed, coriander seed, orange juice or raki and studded with nuts or raisins. They are so much a part of tradition that some islanders actually prefer them to fresh bread. When in Chania, look for them at Haris Bonatos’s shop on the left as you enter Chania’s Central Market. Or if you happen to travel to Sfakia, stop at Askyfou and buy some from Yannis Kapridakis or from Yorgos Orfanoudakis in Anopoli. I researched a story on paximadia in November and became totally addicted. The Central Market is a good place to get acquainted with Cretan cheeses, too. Some are not made anywhere else in Greece. Nikos has

mentioned graviera which resembles Swiss gruyere. It should be aged in caves in the White Mountains for at least six months, but this is not always the case. Some cheese makers rush to market before they’re ready. Always taste before you buy and remember, the older the better. I once had some that was as nutty and delicious as the best parmesan. One very unusual cheese is fresh graviera. It is white as snow, mild and elastic sort of like mozzarella. It goes by the awkward name of malaka (or soft), more familiar as Greeks favorite cussword. Also in the white cheese family are myzithra, a whey cheese similar to ricotta, which has a light, moist consistency; xinomyzithra, literally sour, a crumbly whey cheese, which has been salted and aged to give it that tang; and anthotyro, which has more fat than the other two. Finally, staka is an impossibly rich substance made from ewe’s or goat’s cream, which is simmered with flour until it separates into something akin to clarified butter and a thick paste. The liquid is poured off and used for cooking, while the paste is often served as a dip at tavernas. It sounds strange but try it smeared on bread or poured over a plate of wedding pilaf and you’ll be licking your lips. Staka is a specialty not found east of Chania but it does turn up in the southern Dodecanese islands of Karpathos and Kassos. The white cheeses may be eaten on their own, but they are extra good in Crete’s little pies. These exist under various names from Zakros to Kastelli and from Heraklio to Ierapetra. They may be no bigger than a large raviolo and are often made with a pasta-like dough, rather than fyllo, and fried instead of baked. When I was researching my book, I became quite an expert on these pies, because wherever I went, the lady of the house would sit me down in the kitchen, pull some out of the freezer and fry me up a plate before she would agree to talk. She also made sure I finished them up, which was only difficult when I’d try to fit two or three good cooks into one morning. Deep fried like that, the crust becomes wonderfully crisp, while the soft cheese is more than succulent. Mint rates highest as a seasoning for the savory pies or kallitsounia, but the sweet ones, called lychnarakia in Eastern Crete because they look like little oil lamps, contain vanilla, honey, lemon rind and cinnamon. My advice, whenever you see pies of any kind on a Cretan menu, order them. One type, the Sfakiani pita, is found only around Sfakia. It looks more like a pancake and the cheese has

been kneaded into the dough. Served with honey, it’s great for dessert or a snack. Some pies, on the other hand, are a meal in themselves. I can think of two, both from Western Crete. Boureki, which is a Turkish word meaning little pie with meat or cheese in most of Greece, is a vegetable specialty of Chania. Basically it consists of layers of potatoes, zucchini (or pumpkin), myzithra and mint, but there are countless variations: with or without crust, with or without tomatoes, and so forth. Yummy, especially when the pastry contains red wine. An even richer Chania pie used to be eaten only at Easter after weeks of fasting. Now you can find it on menus year round. Tourta Paschalini should have pieces of lamb sandwiched between layers of three cheeses myzithra, malaka and staka. Here, too, mint adds its zing, for as one Chania cook told me, Without mint you have nothing. Naturally, many pies are filled with those wild greens or horta Crete is famous for. The island boast literally hundreds of varieties of edible weeds. Their vitamins and minerals have been credited with many of the beneficial aspects of the so-called Cretan or Mediterranean Diet. You would think that after eating little else during the Second World War, people would be tired of this subsistence food. Not at all. They prize their greens, make judicious mixtures of tart, bitter, sour and sweet to get just the right balance of flavors, and are willing to shell out lots of euros for the rarest ones. Sweetish askolimbous or skolimbi, the root of a thistle, fetches higher prices than filet mignon. Bitter stamnagathi, which looks like baby arugula, can make your salad a luxury item. As I write this, trying to conjure up delectable meals I’ve eaten in Crete, I’m also pondering just what makes Cretan food so truly memorable and distinct from that of the rest of the country. One essential ingredient is surely the wonderful Cretan olive oil. Lots of it is organic, pressed at monasteries like Toplou (near Siteia) and Agia Triada (on Akrotiri). Crete actually produces 30 percent of Greece’s olive oil and the island consumes more of it per capita than anywhere else in the world. Another factor is the freshness of the fruit and vegetables and the simplicity with which they are prepared. Cretan cooks steer away from complicated sauces that might mask the taste of a baked fish or meat stew. They resist the impulse to sprinkle blends of spices or herbs. In fact, spices rarely figure in Cretan main dishes, the exceptions being cumin, and the occasional dash of

by Diana Farr Louis

hot pepper, which may have been introduced by refugees from Turkey after 1922. You find them most often in Eastern Crete, though the refugees were settled throughout the island. Instead, you’re more likely to be presented with an elemental dish that might go back to Minoan times. Like snails boubouristous. Snail shells from Crete were found amid the volcanic ash at Akrotiri on Santorini. They might even have been cooked the same way with salt, rosemary sprigs and a dash of vinegar. The name comes from the noise the snails make when they bubble in the skillet. (One of my very favorite Cretan treats.) You can tell Cretans prefer simple tastes when you know what they serve at weddings. Gamopilafo or wedding pilaf is nothing more than rice cooked in meat broth, with no seasonings whatsoever. All the flavor, and there’s lots of it, comes from boiling several yearling lambs or kids in a huge cauldron and then stirring rice into the broth until all the liquid is absorbed. The meat, lifted out after all the goodness is extracted, becomes dark and stringy. I found it quite nasty, but the locals devoured it. The rice, on the other hand, whether topped with staka or not, is nothing short of divine. Luckily, you don’t have to go to a wedding to enjoy this. Many Chania tavernas serve it. And funnily, in Eastern Crete, thick spaghetti is added to the broth to make gamomakaronada which doesn’t sound quite as good but it might surprise me. When you hear of meals like these, you wonder about the famous Cretan Diet. How could these sumptuous combinations of meat, pasta and sinful dairy be good for you? Of course, the answer is, they are not, but then again few people on the island eat such rich food all the time. Even today, while you can find feasting dishes in restaurants, the locals save them for special events and holidays like Christmas and Easter. Though it must be said that special occasions come round much more frequently than they did in the old days when meat was a luxury most families could not afford once a month, never mind several times a week. But while Crete might be a carnivore’s notion of nirvana if you’re happy with lamb, kid and pork and don’t crave T-bone steaks it’s even more a paradise for vegetarians. Thanks to the traditional and strictly imposed fasting rules of the Orthodox Church, Cretans and indeed most Greeks used to go without meat, poultry, dairy products and even fish for long periods before Christmas and the Assumption of the Virgin (August 15th) as well

food & wine

p. 15 as before Easter. They also fasted on Wednesdays and Fridays, and although fewer people are devout or self-disciplined enough to continue this practice today, it does mean that there are dozens of recipes for veggies and legumes. And restaurants still feature them, whether out of deference to fasting customers or nostalgia, I couldn’t say. So if you’re a vegetarian or just temporarily off meat, don’t be shy. Ask the waiter if there are any orphans on the menu. Orfana is the folk term used for the meatless verions of a dish like, for example, stuffed tomatoes or vineleaves made with rice instead of ground beef. And while I’m on the subject of stuffed vineleaves or dolmades, the Cretan version is especially delectable: eensy-weensy packets enclosing rice and/or meat seasoned liberally with mint, of course, and, if you’re lucky, made extra tasty by the addition of chopped eggplant, zucchini, onions and carrots to the stuffing. In Eastern Crete, you’ll often find stuffed zuke flowers a rare treat tucked among the vineleaves. One of my very favorite vegetables is artichokes. To find them fresh, you’ll have to be there in spring, before June. Besides being exceptionally flavorful, they are also among the spiniest I’ve seen. If you happen upon them in an open-air market, beware the women carrying them in their carts or bags. Cretan artichokes resemble medieval maces. Round and studden with huge thorns, they would make an excellent torture instrument, and you want to avoid a painful scratch. But, spines on the outside mean no choke inside. Look for fried artichokes, the famous anginares a la polita in the style of Constantinople with baby carrots, stewing onions, new potatoes, dill and an egg-lemon sauce artichokes and broad (fava) bean stew and some singularly Cretan combinations, such as kid with artichokes and even baked fish with artichokes something I’ve encountered nowhere else. Cretan cooks are nothing if not imaginative. A popular approach to preparing a meal is VOV, Vale Oti Vreis or, loosely translated, throw in whatever you have on hand. This makes for unlikely but stable marriages, such as that between grouper with okra. This is a specialty of the area around Rethymno, the third largest of Crete’s coastal cities, between Chania and Heraklio. Okra (bamyes) more typically winds up in chicken casseroles, when not served on its own with a tomato sauce. And don’t turn up your nose because you find okra slimy and furry at the same time. Greek cooks have tricks to rid them of that dubious characteristic. Keep an eye out, too, for salt cod (bakaliaro) stewed with spinach and leeks or cuttlefish combined with string beans, sweet

greens and green olives. Green olives are another theme in the island’s cuisine. These are the ones called tsakistes or cracked and cured in brine. They appear in unexpected dishes, like Chania’s octopus simmered with wild fennel and red wine. Although it looks dark and not particularly appetizing on your plate, it could not be more succulent; the sauce demands to be sopped up with bread. Cretan black olives are another story. Not much larger than a cherry pit, they invariably accompany your order of raki or ouzo, along with a range of mezedes or appetizers ranging from sliced cucumbers or tomato quarters glistening with coarse salt, to sticks of graviera to be dipped in honey, and on to a vast array of little plates. I think you’ll find enough about the art of drinking raki in Matt’s chapters. So, let’s go back to Rethymno. The old part of town is delightful; the new part big, banal cement apartment buildings and hotels. So stick to the historic center, essentially a Venetian creation with no evidence of Minoan, Roman or even Byzantine settlement before the 13th century. I’ve had exquisite fish soups in a hole-in-the-wall tavernaki called Andoni’s near the Raimondi fountain (sorry, I don’t know if it’s still there) and wonderful greens stews in a restaurant just below the Castle. But what made the most impression on me was the fyllo factory I stumbled upon right near the Nerantze mosque/Conservatory. Inside a cavernous, dimly lit room, an older man and his wife, dressed all in white, were shaking out paper-thin sheets of homemade pastry that were about as wide as a double bed. They did it with less trouble than my husband and I have when trying to fold our duvet cover. They piled up these sheets on a huge table and then cut through the stack to make the normal-sized leaves we find in a frozen packet. This two-person operation also produced fresh kataifi, the so-called shredded wheat-like pastry used in desserts and more and more as nests for seafood by top chefs. Again, I don’t know if the couple are still at it, but its existence less than ten years ago shows how highly the locals revered this quality, traditional product. And a word of caution: Tempting though it might be to sit in the romantic harbor, don’t even think of eating there. Most places are tourist traps offering plastic food at exorbitant prices. In general, follow the rule the better the view, the lousier the food and sniff out the good tavernas away from the waterfront. Now, on to Heraklio. Most foreigners find this commercial capital of Crete ugly, chaotic and charmless. They only stay long enough to check out the fabulous Minoan

antiquities in the Archaeological Museum (provided it has opened again after lengthy restorations) and go up to Knossos. But in my case, familiarity breeds affection, and I have eaten so well in and around Heraklio that I can forgive its hectic streets and disregard for aesthetics. Like everyone else, I head first for the Morosini fountain, even though the Market Street is not what it used to be. More shops sell souvenirs than food nowadays but you can still find excellent bougatsas (cream pies) and yogurt so thick it has to be cut with a knife. I can’t think of any particular dish that is typical of Heraklio, but it does seem to have more than its share of really great fish places. Look for things like atherina (tiny whitebait) and baby shrimp. Deep fried, both of these rate high on my list for crunch and flavor. If baby squid (no longer than your pinky) are in season, they belong to this category, too, and are far more delicious than their ubiquitous frozen bigger relatives. But you should also try stuffed squid, with cheese or with rice and chopped almonds, garlic, parsley and dill in a wine sauce. And of course, octopus tentacles grilled over charcoal. Chewy perhaps but oh so good. There are excellent fish tavernas near the old port and on the coast towards the airport. I’m going to leap over to Eastern Crete now, bypassing Agios Nikolaos and Elounda, the land of luxury and five-star hotels. If you get a chance, though, do wind your way down to the coast at Mochlos, between the Mirabello Bay and Siteia. This is a little fishing village that hasn’t become totally touristic. Marika Petraki has a taverna there that is well worth a stop. She caters to archaeologists excavating Minoan ruins on the islet opposite. Don’t miss her delectable greens pielets, her parrotfish baked with onions, tomatoes and cumin, and her wonderful baked omelette. She uses 25 eggs to feed the whole team, and adds zukes, potatoes and tomatoes to the pan to make a luscious treat. Siteia itself is the last of the Venetian cities on the north coast and the most unassuming. It won’t take you long to take a look at its modest square castle and tiny museum. But what it might lack in photo ops, it makes up for in gastronomy. Siteia has won international blue ribbons for its extraordinary olive oil and its delicate white wines, and it is the pastry capital of Crete. The confections are not overly sweet, unlike the baklava family of baked fyllo sprinkled with nuts and saturated with honey syrup. Instead they are dough-based, with fillings of crushed nuts and raisins. The pastry, often made with oil not butter you’ll be surprised how good it is, there’s not a hint of oily aftertaste tends to be kneaded with raki or

brandy and orange or lemon juice. Here are some of the goodies you should sample. Patouda, lemony shortbread rolls folded around crushed walnuts and almonds, seasoned with sesame seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, and sweetened with honey. Stafidopita, my very favorite, a raisin cake I far prefer to English or American fruitcake. Stafidota, almond-raisin cookies, that bear a faint resemblance to fig newtons but taste a hundred times better. And Zournadakia or Hanoumisses, nut-filled fyllo pastry twists. Another sweet to snap up when you find them are Xerotigana, pastry ribbons that are coiled around a fork as they are deep fried. They are given out at weddings, and as Cretan weddings are notorious for having up to 2000 guests, women who are dab hands at making them are in great demand. One expert I met in Zakros was kept busy all summer, a one-woman xerotigana factory. When properly made, they are ethereal, lighter than air. And like so many sweets, they come sprinkled with honey and chopped nuts. I hope these tips will be helpful as you try to figure out Cretan menus. As a general rule, choose places patronized by locals and don’t hesitate to ask questions and look over the pots and pans in the kitchen and the fish selection in the fridge. Avoid the restaurants that advertise their dishes with bad photos emblazoned outside and whose overeager waiters hustle you too aggressively. Exploring Crete’s cuisine should be just as enjoyable and rewarding as exploring its countryside, ancient sites and beaches. I wish you many memorable meals and gastronomic revelations. Diana Farr Louis is an American food/travel writer and long-time resident of Greece. She has published several articles and two books on Greek cooking namely Prospero’s Kitchen, Mediterranean Cooking of the Ionian Islands from Corfu to Kythera, and Feasting and Fasting in Crete. She has been contributing travel pieces for the weekly Athens News since 1997 and has written two excellent travel books, Athens and Beyond: 30 Day Trips & Weekends and Travels In Northern Greece, both highly recommended reading for those whose traveling in Greece goes beyond Mykonos and Santorini. Feasting and Fasting in Crete includes recipes and anecdotes, history and tradition about the island and is an essential ingredient in any Greek or Grecophile Kitchen. Her travel books are available through the Athens News by e-mailing: athensnews@athensnews.gr while Feasting and Fasting in Crete can be ordered from the publisher, Kedros, books@kedros.gr or in the US from Greece In Print


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David Tennant Joins Emily Watson in Psychological Thriller ‘Quicksand’ on Crete

David Tennant is joining Emily Watson in the psychological thriller “Quicksand.” The film, due to shoot in April on the Greek island of Crete, reteams the British actors, who starred as a couple in 2013’s “The Politician’s Husband,” a three-episode British miniseries. “Quicksand” follows a British couple living out their dream in the Mediterranean. But their paradise comes to an abrupt end when their visiting son is tragically murdered by a local youth. The husband is offered a chance at revenge by a dangerous stranger who won’t take no for an answer, but the price of revenge is one more murder. TV director Mark Brozel is making his feature film debut from a script by Steve Lewis & Tony Owen. Mark Lavender and Joel Scott-Halkes are producing, while Tannaz Anisi and Greg Schenz are executive producing for 13 Films. The executive producer is Peter Garde, in cooperation with Indigo View. The project will be presented to buyers at the American Film Mar-

ket, which opens on Oct. 31 in Santa Monica, Calif. “This script is terrifically well-crafted and deeply conceived,” Lavender said. “With rich psychological undertones and plenty of beautiful visual moments, it is a contemporary classic in the making. And with this cast and director, it’ll take the au-

dience on a visceral ride, resonating long-term.” Tennant’s credits include “Doctor Who,” “Broadchurch,” his new BBC show “There She Goes,” and Amazon’s upcoming series “Good Omens.” “I’m thrilled to re-unite David and Emily on the big screen in this taut psycho-thriller,” Brozel said.

Lavender of Rough Sea Productions produced the indie “Frozen.” Scott-Halkes is the founder of the London-based production company Osiko Films. Tennant, Watson, and Brozel are represented by the Independent Talent Group in the U.K., and UTA in the U.S. Variety.com

Antonia Papatzanaki… “Photometries” The Municipal Gallery of Chania

is pleased to present the work of the distinguished Chanian sculptor Antonia Papatzanaki. Characteristic of Papatzanaki’s art is her long-term research into structures whose concept and use of light is crucial. The exhibition comprises of several representative series of works created from 2000 to the present. Her continuous experimental approach to light led Papatzanaki to the use of different materials and often to inventive means and innovative ways of creation. his first extensive exhibition of her work in Chania, includes a plethora of work, about 80 light sculptures and wall-mounted reliefs made of industrial materials such as Plexiglas, aluminum, stainless steel, bronze and light, as well as photos printed in transparency or on canvas, and finally, prints on paper. Inspired by the Herakletian Unity of Opposites, Papatzanaki juxtaposes transparent materials, which allow the transmission of light, with opaque materials that restrict it, thereby forming abstract light

forms. “The light of the works surpasses their limits as objects, saturating the space and highlighting the possibility that human consciousness can transcend material reality,” says Papatzanaki. The perception of each piece varies according to the relationship between the natural light of the environment and the artificial light of the work as well as to the viewer’s position. The artist believes that each of the material’s properties evokes a viewer-specific emotional response and mental image. Light is a loaded universal symbol, directly connected to life and metaphorically to truth, and as a basic element of our visual perception, to the process of research, thought, and evaluation. The behavior of light as mass and energy corresponds to the dual human nature as body and spirit. Primordial light is the ultimate boundary of our world. Light signifies the rhythm of life and the passage of time; light discovers and reveals. The exhibition is accompanied by a fully illustrated, bilingual (Greek

and English) catalog with introductory essays by Dr. Daniel Belasco, Director of the Al Held Foundation, New York, and Dr. Thodoris Koutsogiannis, Exhibition Curator. Antonia Papatzanaki, born in Chania on the island of Crete is a renowned international Greek artist. She was educated in the Athens School of Fine Arts, the Vienna Hochschule für Angenwandte Kunst, and she acquired her Master’s degree of Fine Arts from Pratt Institute in New York. Papatzanaki is the recipient of many prestigious awards including F.V.S. zu Hamburg Foundation, Hellenic State Scholarship Foundation, Gerondelis Foundation, Lynn, MA, Foundation for Hellenic Culture, Hellenic Ministry of Culture, and Katonah Museum of Art, NY; in addition to winning Panhellenic and international competitions held to choose and fund artists for the creation of public art. Her public light installation Agora was exhibited at Battery Park during 2000-2001 as part of the Temporary Public Art Program of New York City. Several of Papatzanaki’s outdoor public works are

permanently installed throughout Greece, including her sculpture Lighthouse in the square of the Kato Patisia Metro Station, Athens. She has also participated in numerous group exhibitions in Europe, Asia, and the United States. Further work has been acquired by the National Museum of Contemporary Art, the Copelouzos family collection, the Vorres Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Crete, and the American College of Greece.. She currently maintains studios in Athens, Greece and New York City. The event is part of the exhibition series “Return—Cretan Artists Returning Creatively to Chania.” This program of the Municipal Art Gallery of Chania was designed in 2011 by Dr. Thodoris Koutsogiannis to acquaint Chanian audiences with the work of important artists both from Chania and generally from Crete. The presentation of the work of Antonia Papatzanaki is the fourth exhibition of the Return series and the first contribution by a female artist.

pets & vets

p. 18


November: National Pet Diabetes Month

you know that 1 in every 200 cats may be affected by diabetes mellitus (DM)? November is National Diabetes Month, and while this month was originally designed to increase awareness of this common endocrine disease in humans, we need to be aware of the growing prevalence of DM in dogs and cats also. Untreated, diabetes mellitus can be fatal in dogs and cats. In veterinary medicine, there are two types of diabetes mellitus: Type I DM and Type II DM. Type I DM is when the body doesn’t make enough insulin (which is a hormone that is normally produced from the pancreas), and requires life-long insulin therapy (delivered via a syringe twice a day). This is most commonly seen in dogs – in other words, once a dog becomes a diabetic, he or she is diabetic for life. Type II DM is when the body has some insulin being produced from the pancreas, but it is an inadequate amount or something is interfering with its ability to be used by the body. This is most commonly seen in cats and can be transient. In other words, if your cat has recently been diagnosed with Type II DM, he or she may only need insulin injections (via a syringe twice a day) for a few to several months, not necessarily for life. Clinical signs of diabetes mellitus in dogs and cats include: Excessive thirst Excessive urination Inappropriate urination

Weight loss (most commonly over the back), despite an overweight body condition Increased hunger Increased “whiteness” of the lens of the eye due to cataracts Blindness Weakness Lethargy Poor skin condition (like excessive dandruff or an oily hair coat) Certain breeds are more predisposed to DM. In cats, breeds such as Siamese are over-represented. In dogs, breeds such as the Samoyed, Keeshond, miniature pinscher, Cairn terrier, Schnauzer, Australian terrier, dachshund, poodle, Beagle, and Bichon Frise are over-presented. In dogs, the female sex seems to be more likely to develop DM, with the disease being seen twice as frequently in female than in male dogs. In cats, males are over-represented. DM is typically seen in older pets – typically from 7-9 years of age in dogs, and 8-13 years of age in cats. While juvenile (young) dia-

betes mellitus can also occur, this is less common. With DM, the body doesn’t have enough insulin (or the insulin is not effective), which is the hormone necessary to push sugar (“glucose”) into the cells of the body. As a result, the cells of the body are starved, and the body is stimulated to produce more and more glucose as a result. However, without insulin in the body (or being delivered by syringe), the sugar can’t get into the cells. The excess sugar that is produced by the body results in the clinical signs of excessive thirst and urination. Untreated, the body develops diabetic complications called diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA), where it breaks down fat in an attempt to feed the starving cells. These fat breakdown products (e.g., ketones) poison the body, resulting in vomiting, dehydration, inappetance, electrolyte abnormalities, and even too much “acid” production in the body. DKA can be life

threatening, and typically requires intensive supportive care (which can be expensive to treat, as it typically requires 24/7 care). Treatment for diabetes can differ somewhat between dogs and cats in regards to the type of insulin recommended. In dogs and cats, treatment requires twice a day injections of insulin, frequent reevaluations and careful blood work monitoring. Oral medications (called oral hypoglycemic agents like glipizide), which are often used in people are not recommended in dogs and cats. These oral medications do not work in dogs, and usually do not work well in cats either. They are only used in cats, when owners cannot give insulin injections. In cats, dietary changes to a low-carbohydrate, high-protein diet, along with weight loss and in combination with short-term insulin therapy, may help resolve diabetes (diabetic remission). If you notice any of these signs (e.g., excessive thirst, excessive urination), please bring your pet into your veterinarian as soon as possible. With diabetes, the sooner it is diagnosed, the sooner it can be treated. Also, there’s less of a likelihood of an expensive emergency visit for treatment of diabetic complications. With supportive care, the prognosis for DM is fair to good, although it does require frequent trips to the veterinarian to regulate the blood sugar and dedicated pet owners (who can give twice-a-day injections of insulin).

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plants & gardening

A brand new plant nursery in Chania

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health & nutrition

p. 22

What You Should Know About Good Nutrition


nutrition is the key to good mental and physical health. Eating a balanced diet is an important part of good health for everyone. The kind and amount of food you eat affects the way you feel and how your body works.

diet to maintain or improve your weight. Includes five food groups with many kinds of foods that promote good health Includes the recommended number of servings and serving size of each food group.

What are nutrients? Nutrients are ingredients in food that help you: Grow Repair body tissue Build new muscle tissue. No single food will provide you with the right amount of nutrients. By combining foods from all the different food groups, you can meet your body’s daily needs.

How do I eat a healthy diet? Eat a variety of foods from each group and stay within the recommended servings listed. Choose foods that are low in fat and sugar. Choose and prepare foods that are low in salt. Learn to read and understand food labels.

How can I eat a healthy diet? Follow the Food Guide at www. choosemyplate.gov/food-groups/ which: Offers a guide to healthy food choices for people from age two and up Helps you choose a healthful

How can I make healthy choices when shopping for food? Read the Nutrition Facts Food Label, which is found on canned, frozen and packaged foods. This label: Lists the items that by law need to be listed on food products. Shows what a serving size of a food is, and how many calories and fat grams are in a serving, as well

as how many calories of the food scription. come from fat. May cause allergic reactions, may Tells some important vitamins and make the medicines you take less minerals that the food provides. effective or may cause other harmful effects. Do I need a vitamin and mineral Are not always tested, so there is supplement? no guarantee they can actually do You may: what is advertised. Vitamins are present in different Check with your doctor or dietitian amounts in different foods. before taking any herbal suppleMinerals help your body carry out ment to be sure it is safe. certain activities and are also present in many foods. Why is physical activity importUsually all the vitamins and min- ant? erals you need are in a well-bal- Combined with a healthy diet, reganced diet. ular physical activity can improve Vitamin or mineral supplement your overall health by helping you s may be needed if your diet does to: not have a variety of foods from Lose excess weight and keep it off each group. Prevent diseases like diabetes, cancer, heart disease, high blood Are herbal supplements safe? pressure and chronic kidney disNot always, they: ease Come from natural sources like Prevent high cholesterol. plant leaves, roots, seeds, flowers or Build strength and endurance. fruits. Cope with stress and anxiety. Are not regulated, so there is no guarantee they contain what the What if I have more questions? package says. Speak to your doctor or dietitian. Can be purchased without a pre-

A life changing visit to our pharmacy can make you change the way you see life and put your body and mind in harmony. Have you ever visited a pharmacy to taste health? A different pharmacy in the centre of the old town of Chania is waiting to share with you secrets of well being and longevity. Taste the biolo gical honey, the royal jelly, tea from plants carefully chosen in therapeutic recipes, high concentration and purity juices of pomegranate, cranberry, aloe. Orthomolecular nutrition with suggestions on detox programs and a carefully selected range of supplements, vitamins an gluten free products from all over the world. In the same premises you can find a live homeopathic lab with 6.000 homeopathic remedies in stock and the ability to produce any kind of homeopathic form i.e. pills, granules, solutions etc Evangelia Sakka is the pharmacist in charge who has created that special pharmacy and will be happy to introduce you to that fantastic world but also suggest whatever will be more settable for you. Our philosophy doesn’t stop on food and supplements but we want you to think of your mind and body as well. That’s why we have created next to our pharmacy the Green Care SPA. A SPA that helps to uplift your mind and body with biological face an body treatments, reflexology, reiky, su jok and moxa treatment, Bach flower remedies, homeopathy sessions, bowtech as well as nail therapies. We are waiting for you to restart your life at Daskalogianni 43 - 45, SAKKA Pharmacy www.my-pharmacy.gr / www.greencarespa.gr

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