EAT Magazine November|December 2021 by EAT Magazine

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O OD | C U LT U R E

Smart. Local. Delicious.

Happy Holidays!

22 years at the forefront of local food and drink INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2021 ISSUE 25-06

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Welcome It’s the holiday season; people from all walks of life and cultures are celebrating. The smell of evergreen boughs in the house to the aromas of all that baking and cooking, from the sound of crackling fires to music filling the house, it’s a time of happiness in my home, too. From all of us at EAT, here’s to good food and drink with your family and friends, no matter how, what, or when you celebrate.

Cynthia Annett -Hynes

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR

CITY EATS

REBECCA BAUGNIET

Just in time for all your holiday cheese board needs, L’Apéro Wine and Cheese Bistro has opened on Blanshard St. The goal at L’Apéro is to get you to experience delicious and exciting cheeses and discover unique pairings. L’Apéro showcases a wide diversity of cheeses and provides expert advice to get you to develop your tasting skills, discover cheeses depending on seasons and local availabilities, and they will even tell you the story behind each cheese. laperobistro.net House of Boateng is opening a retail store this fall. HOB Fine Foods will be located at 2829 Peatt Road and you will be able to find their ready-made meals, ingredients and local artisan products. The space will also be able to accommodate cooking demos, long table dinners and receptions. houseofboateng.ca

Sidney

Liberty Kitchen is a new restaurant from the Browns Restaurant group currently under construction at Langford’s Belmont Market Shopping. eatliberty.com

HARVEST SALE

The Poke Lounge is a new poke bar at 866 Yates St. Signature bowls such as Miso Hungry and The Torched go for $15 while build your own bowls start at $8. thepokelounge.business.site ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/COSMAA

Take home the best nuts, dried fruit, seeds and confection Slaters

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November 26th & 27th

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Fill your pantry with this years FRESH CROP! To learn more, visit the Harvest Sales page at

RanchoVignola.com 3

CITY EATS

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER

The Cottage Bakery on Fairfield Road closed permanently in late summer. If binge-watching Ted Lasso has you craving shortbread, Martha’s Delectables is a local shortbread cookie baker. In addition to premium shortbread, you can order personalized logo cookies and corporate event cookies. Shop online at marthasdelectables.ca Speaking of binge-watching, I have to make a correction to something I wrote in last year’s December City Eats column. I reported that signs were up in the windows of the former Guild location for a new eatery called the Singing Swan. Having now watched Maid on Netflix, I can confirm there is no such place opening – the space was only being used as a shoot location and the Singing Swan exists only in that Netflix series. The space remains vacant. Congratulation to the team at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel! The hotel has been recognized as the #1 HOTEL in CANADA and the #19 BEST HOTEL in the WORLD by Condé Nast Traveler 2021 Reader’s Choice Awards! oakbaybeachhotel.com The Victoria International Wine Festival is Victoria’s first exclusive international wine tasting festival. VICWF focuses on showcasing wines from around the world. With the

purchase of your ticket you get entry to the tasting room where all wine tasting is included in the value of the ticket. VICWF prides itself on presenting wine that is good value for the average consumer. This year’s festival takes place from Nov 14-21includes tastings, seminars and two wine dinners at Zambri’s. vicwf.com The Nulla Project is Victoria’s first reusable cup program. Launched by two cousins, this service provides customers a zero-waste alternative to single-use cups and aims at improving the to-go culture. With 15 locations in their network, The Nulla Project is an easy sustainable option that helps eateries and coffee shops reduce their waste. You can find them at various locations around town including the brand new Esquimalt Roasting Company at Town Square in Esquimalt. thenullaproject.com esquimaltroasting.com If you are heading to the mainland in November or December, you can get those Glühwein mugs ready! The Vancouver Christmas Market returns from Nov 13-Dec 24 to Jack Poole Plaza. Delight in German-style food and drinks, hop on their neon carousel, and stroll through a wonderland of Christmas shopping, music, and lights. vancouverchristmasmarket.com

Parry Bay Sheep Farm

On November 26 -27, Rancho Vignola hosts their annual Vancouver Island Harvest Sale at the Mary Winspear Centre in Sidney, Friday 9am-7pm and Saturday 9am-5pm. From walnuts so fresh that they taste like cream, to all-natural, flavour-packed dried mangoes to premium chocolate covered nuts, there is something for everyone. ranchovignola.com The Cheese and Meat Festival returns this fall. The Festival will take place on a new date of Saturday, November 27th at the historic Powerhouse located in downtown Victoria. The Festival will have three tasting sessions and seminars that will showcase the best of the local artisan food and beverage industry. cheeseandmeatfestival.com At press time, it is not known whether The Moss Street Market will be holding their annual Holiday Market in the Fairfield Gonzales Community Association buildings (1330 Fairfield Road), the Garry Oak Room and the Sir James Douglas School Gym. The Holiday Market features over 80 vendors offering locally-made crafts, cards, art, clothing, jewellery, household items, PLUS meat, fish, winter vegetables, coffee, apple cider and much more. mossstreetmarket.com Our condolences go out to the family and friends of Chad Rennie, and to the whole team at Rain Dogs Wine Bar. Rain Dogs remains open at 509 Fisgard St. raindogswinebar.com Bûche de Noël

Styling + Photography:

Deb Garlick

Recipe on page 28

Visit eatmagazine.ca

John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/COPY EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Julie Pegg SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

Tom O’Neill REGIONAL REPORTERS

Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet CONTRIBUTORS

Bill Blair Nate Caudle Cinda Chavich Jennifer Danter Jacqueline Downey Gillie Easdon Heidi Fink Deb Garlick Kyle Guilfoyle Lillie Louise Major Denise Marchessault Elizabeth Monk Daniel Murphy Elizabeth Nyland Daisy Orser Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Shelora Sheldan Johann Vincent Rebecca Wellman REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

Susan Worrall ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER

Ron Metella CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES

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On the cover:

Metchosin, BC

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile.

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Food and Wine Matters

IMPECCABLE PAIRINGS

This holiday season, match your chosen feast to the perfect BC wine. AS THE CLOCK STRUCK midnight on November 8, 2020, BC went into lockdown. The following day any notion of a holiday table surrounded with family and friends flew right out the window. No rustling up mismatched table settings and borrowing chairs this year. No passing dishes and platters around the table. No amiable chit-chat or opining endlessly on the merits or horrors of Brussel sprouts. Definitely no glass clinking.

COOL KNOWS CHRISTMAS. COOL KNOWS CULT. COOL KNOWS COOL. You don’t truly know Chardonnay until you know the boutique, rare and cult Coolshanagh. Available where fine wines are sold or online at coolshanagh.ca

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We made the best of it though, didn’t we? Maybe by tucking into a ham and scalloped spuds with our glass of “bubble” on a deck overlooking a frosty shoreline. Or sharing turkey, dressing, and cranberry sauce with family via Zoom from a sticky fingered screen. I heard that a few folks feasted from the tailgates of trucks parked six feet apart. A friend’s kids appeared on Christmas Day with bird and fixings, individually plated. Door ajar, she noshed and sipped in the foyer as they savoured and “visited” from the driveway. Wine imbibers, prompted to drink local, kept the BC wine flowing. Wineries were offering Zoom tastings, some fine wines for the holidays, and affordable shipping to boot. And weren’t we darned happy to keep them in business? This past September, I was excited to attend Local Flights in Vancouver, my first sit-down, non-virtual BC wine tasting in two years. For years, BC wines have held a place at my holiday gatherings. From Pinot Gris to Pinot Noir, Riesling to Syrah, and Chardonnay to Cabernet, the wines’ fruitdriven styles and zesty acidity are just the ticket to tackle both the delicate and the bold flavours that show up on a festive table. This year will be no different. Taking my cue from a piece by the Guardian newpaper’s wine writer Fiona Beckett—20 Christmas Wine Pairings to Learn by Heart—I adapted her international wine suggestions to BC offerings. The following are merely a sampling of a vast array of BC wines to enjoy over the holidays.

This season, share the elegance of High Tea with friends and family in the Garden that Love Built. Four Courses $55.00 per person November 26, 2021 - January 2, 2022 Reservations Strongly Recommended

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

The “R” months are back. December and January are ideal oyster season, and Fitz Brut 2017 from Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards zips along nicely with the raw briny mollusks. Or, for under 20 bucks, consider Evolve Cellars Effervescence NV, an easygoing sparkling wine that should satisfy fans of Prosecco. Grilling or baking oysters? Give Quail’s Gate Chenin Blanc 2020 a go. The wine’s apple/melon notes, rich texture, and crisp backbone are also versatile enough to stand up deliciously to poultry, pork, and nearly all mild, soft, or runny cheeses. It makes a pleasant change from Riesling if a dish holds an exotic note. Fiona’s philosophy of “Duck loves Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir loves duck” bodes well for BC, where wineries have been turning out tasty Pinots for some time. I’ve discovered two cooler climate BC Pinots from beyond the Okanagan Valley that impress. The first is a fresh, lively herb and cherry-nuanced Unsworth Pinot Noir 2019 from the Cowichan Valley. The second is from the Kootenays, the woodsy, plummy, dense Pinot Noir 2019 from Baillie-Grohman Estate. Should goose be on your table by adventurous chance, rather than Fiona’s suggestion of Barolo, seek out Blasted Church Sacrosanct 2019, also made from Nebbiolo, a grape that seldom strays from its Piedmont roots. This meaty wine with overtones of dark cherry will also sing like a soprano if porchetta or rabbit

JULIE PEGG

are among your holiday repertoire. As for pairing white with that goose (or any poultry), look no further than Riesling. The racy acidity and stone notes of Monte Creek Living Land 2020 or Little Farm Pied de Cuve Riesling 2017 will cut right through the bird’s fat (don’t forget to use that fat to crisp up roasted spuds and assist in braising a red cabbage side dish). Bartier Bros. Merlot 2019, showing blackberry, blueberry, and spice notes, cries out for a classic roast of beef. So too does Clos du Soleil Signature 2018, a Bordeaux-style blend. These young bucks need a decent decant, though, to show off their vigour. It’s hard to go wrong with cold poached or lightly smoked salmon for the holiday table, and Poplar Grove’s consistently tasty Pinot Gris makes a great match. Give often underrated Pinot Blanc a try too. Upper Bench Pinot Blanc 2020 possesses a subtle ripeness and round mouthfeel that also works well with salmon … and sushi. As for turkey dinner, it’s mainly the sides and the camaraderie that dictate the wine. Best not to overthink. In the main, a berry-laden red and rich white on the table will serve you well. Gamay Noir 2019 from Volcanic Hills Estate and Tantalus Bear Chardonnay 2020 would do the trick. For a hint of sweetness, look to Kitsch Esther’s Block Riesling 2019. Happy holidays! May you gather with your nearest and dearest this year and clink glasses to a brighter 2022—and to the continued success of BC wines.

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2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

OPEN ALL DAY, EVERY DAY! Open Daily 11:30am-8:00pm

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REPORTER Boomtown Ghost Ramen Find our pies at your local grocery store

Maiiz Nixamal

www.saltspringpieco.com 250 537 6169

SuperFlux {Cabana} The Bard and Banker Yua Japanese Bistro W ORDS

Elizabeth Monk Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Elizabeth Nyland Johann Vincent

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

A Unique Cheese Experience Open Now for: Take Out and Counter Service Swiss Raclette Lunch Exceptional World Cheeses Gourmet Cheese Boards Private Parties Gift Cards Stage 2 in December: Evening Table Service Curated Wine List Visit us at laperobistro.net and follow us on Instagram for updates 1028 Blanshard St., Victoria 778-265-6229

FIND YOUR HOLIDAY SPIRIT OR WINE... OR BEER...

Whether you are looking for a special bottle of Champagne to share at New Years, that perfect six-pack for a family gathering, or a once in a lifetime bottle of Scotch for a loved one - we have all of your bases covered.

Aaron Cho, co-owner and operating partner at Ghost Ramen ELIZABETH NYLAND

919 Douglas St Victoria Don’t miss out - shop online now at strathliquor.com 9

Superflux {Cabana}

8 0 4 B R O U G H T O N S T. SUPERFLUXBEER.COM

The Vancouver un-brewery comes to Victoria and lands in a highconcept space reminiscent of a ’70s vacation hotel lounge.

Victoria will soon be seeing more of this brand in Superflux {Cabana}. At the time of writing, Cabana is set to open in late fall at 804 Broughton St. across from the Royal Theatre in the former location of The Livet. The high-concept space is being redesigned by Studio Roslyn who also created spaces for Superbaba and the Parsonage Cafe. Henderson describes the space as a “’70s vacation hotel lounge.” Drawing on the nostalgia of escapism (think Hunter S. Thompson in a Las Vegas pool bar vibes), the space will feature a round bar as the centrepiece of the room, comfortable banquet seating, and a casual dining area in addition to the prime outdoor patio. This new location is opening hot on the heels of their first location on Vancouver’s Clark Drive in August 2020, but Henderson and Kohlen have come a long way since they started in 2016. “We started our project making beer out of other

The Pacific Restaurant at the Hotel Grand Pacific is excited to be once again offering our unique à la carte or three-course Fondue. 7 days a week | 5pm - 9pm Seating is limited, make your reservations now | 250.380.4458 463 BELLEVILLE ST VICTORIA, BC | HOTELGRANDPACIFIC.COM

10 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

JOHANN VINCENT

ADAM HENDERSON AND MATT Kohlen have created a brand that is difficult to capture in a few words. “We feel there is something ‘un-brewery’ about our brewery,” says Henderson, co-owner of Superflux Beer. The two have prioritized gut feeling and expression over strict rules and boundaries to create a colourful and unique beer brand that has graced Vancouver and the West Coast since 2016.

L to R: Adam Henderson, Ryan Acheson, Kate Snyder, Kris Przednwek, Matthew Harvey breweries,” says Henderson. “We would find a brewery that had a bit of extra space and rent it out to make our own beer there.” They continued building their brand this way for nearly five years before opening a dedicated brewery and bar space in the Superflux Lounge last year. While their first location includes a limited kitchen serving a menu of unique hotdogs and salads, their new location will expand their creative vision. “We want the food to be an extension of what our beer is,” says Henderson, stating that they are

creating a fun and casual menu anchored by a really great burger. “We’re hoping to do creative, transportive, nostalgic versions of the other types of food that we love. We think there’s a lot of food that goes really well with our beer so we’re looking forward to expanding that.”

JOHANN VINCENT

The company is known for its vibrant branding and even more colourful tasting notes, so it’s easy to get excited about what their new location will bring. “We find it difficult to put what we do and don’t do with our beer into words,” says Henderson. “We don’t have written rules, but we all kind of know what we do and don’t do. We want to just do our own thing and continue to ask why a brewery can’t do this or look like this. We’ve always felt a desire to fully express what we’ve wanted to do.” ADRIAN PARADIS

Entertaining is our jam.

Break the holiday cycle with handcrafted jams and our curated Spotify® playlist. saltspringkitchen.ca Rendering of booth seating courtesy of Superflux

Yua Japanese Bistro Cucina Italiana

6 2 2 F I S G A R D S T. 778-430-5899 YUABISTRO.COM

The restaurant’s innovative Japanese fusion cuisine is a multi-sensory experience. AS YOU STEP INTO Yua Japanese Bistro, expect to be boisterously greeted by an enthusiastic refrain of “Irasshaimase!” from the chefs behind the bar. The exhortation, which translates roughly to “welcome to my restaurant,” sets the tone for an experience that dazzles throughout—a great new addition melding Japanese food with west coast culinary sensibilities. “We blend the traditional style of Japanese cuisine with a variety of Westernized sauces to create a new, innovative Japanese fusion,” says owner Dylan Lee. Alongside his long-term friend and head chef Clark Park, they are using their expertise to deliver an authentic and unique tasting experience to everyone.

May this Season be Merry & Bright

Dinner ~ Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm 106 Superior St. | Reservations: 250.380.0088 | IlCovoTrattoria.ca

Recently opened next door to Bao in what was previously a Vietnamese restaurant, Yua Bistro’s menu goes far beyond rolls and nigiri (although those are still available). The Oju box is a particular favourite. The one I’ve enjoyed most is a stacked selection of three boxes that has beef tenderloin with puréed parsnip and turmeric as the main event with a beautiful miso soup on the side, another box with real crab rolls, sashimi, organic mixed kaiso salad, and a host of other delicate treats in the third. Pickled grapes are served as a palate cleanser afterward. If beef isn’t your thing, they also have other versions with bases like pork tenderloin or fish dishes (the menu fluctuates). Another fave is the Chicken Namban—deep-fried chicken with organic salad, red cabbage, and house-made tartar sauce. “Our mission is to provide our customers with an extraordinary, multi-sensory experience,” says Lee. “First by eating it with the eyes, then tasting the delicious food, and absorbing the healthy nutrients.” From the friendly front-of-house staff to the thoughtful chefs carefully creating and plating, the experience at Yua is unlike any Japanese restaurant in Victoria— which may account for its growing popularity among food lovers in the region. On any given evening at Yua, the room is likely to be filled with both experienced Japanese diners as well as those curious to learn more. A great addition worth getting to know. *Note: closed on Mondays, but it’s worth checking the website for the latest hours before you go. ADRIEN SALA

IMAGE COURTESY OF YUA JAPANESE BISTRO

Lunch Oju box with pork tenderloin 12 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Ghost Ramen

1 6 0 9 S T O R E S T. 250-590-9821 GHOSTRAMEN.CA

The richness of broth, the comfort of noodles.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

FOR JASON CHAN, CO-OWNER of Ghost Ramen and The Village restaurant on Estevan Avenue, ramen is more than just a business or a meal, it is a life-long passion. Before opening Ghost Ramen in his former Village Chinatown location earlier this year, Chan and his daughter had been all over the world looking for great bowls of noodles. Whether in Hawaii, Japan, or New York, Chan says one of the first things he does in a new city is look up local ramen shops. In January 2021, Chan and his daughter were on their way back from a ski trip that had been rained out. They stopped at Nikkei Ramen-Ya in Courtenay and were awestruck with what they found. Shortly after, Chan reached out to Greg Masuda, the chef and owner of Nikkei Ramen-Ya, with a proposal. They started with what was intended to be just a delivery and takeout concept—a “ghost kitchen.” But plans for Ghost Ramen quickly evolved into full dining room service. Masuda now ships his snappy noodles and rich broths daily from Courtenay to Victoria where Chan and his team make the toppings (such as the jammy ajitama ramen eggs) and put it all together.

Spicy Citrus Slaw with green & purple cabbage, carrots, green onions, citrus togarashi vinaigrette, sesame seeds. beyond bowls to include options like boa buns with char siu pork, fried chicken, sides salads, and desserts. “This is a full-on passion project,” says Chan. “Whenever we put out a bowl, we try to make it better than it was the previous day. We’ve always embodied that idea in our breakfasts at the Village, we’d just never applied it to noodles.” ADRIAN PARADIS

The space itself is warm and inviting with half-circle booths next to the windows overlooking busy Store Street, wood panelling, and plenty of exposed brick. Hints of the former Village branding remain on the walls and staff uniforms. Due to the drop-shipping concept of their ingredients, they run on an “open until sold out” basis. If somehow ramen is not your idea of the perfect comfort food (ranging from creamy pork tonkatsu broth with sous vide pork belly chashu, to the spicy chicken miso paitan with fried chicken karaage), you’re in luck. Their menu has expanded

ELIZABETH NYLAND

IMAGE COURTESY OF YUA JAPANESE BISTRO

OG Miso Ramen with ramen egg topped with pulled pork, seasoned bamboo shoots. pickled ginger, local pea shoots & toasted sesame seeds. 13

Garden, Food, and Attitude

9 5 0 YAT E S S T . B O O M T O W N Y YJ . C A

The new Boomtown restaurant on Yates Street—edgy and individual with a west coast feel. IT’S IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO notice that downtown Victoria is undergoing a massive transformation, with construction projects underway at nearly every turn—especially in the Harris Green neighbourhood. In what was once a sparsely populated part of town with only a smattering of coffee shops and grocers, residential towers are rocketing into existence in every direction, bringing with them what will be the highest density of any region in British Columbia (yes, even more than Vancouver). So, naturally, it makes sense that restaurateurs would want to muscle into the thick of what is coming—which was part of the thinking for Patrick Lynch and Christian Barnard, co-owners of Boomtown (Burritos & Garden).

JOHANN VINCENT

The partnership at Boomtown is somewhat unconventional. Lynch is the executive chef and co-owner of Foo Asian Street Food while Barnard is a landscape designer . Lynch was the first to conceive of taking on a new project in the Harris Green quarter. “I’d been looking for a space for another project,” he said. “I saw this location and thought it would be a cool place for a beer garden. So I brought Barnard up to see it and we started talking about it, and then it just was, like, let’s do it together.” And so the pair launched into the project in the spring, with the ambition to fully renovate the space inside and out, creating something unique in

Patrick Lynch (L) and Christian Barnard (R) at the Boomtown site.

A TOAST TO THE

season

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Victoria. Inspired by restaurant and neighbourhood bars Barnard has frequented on many trips to Southern California and Lynch’s passion for delicious and approachable food, the intention is to be “a little edgy but with a west coast feel.” The Garden The building, located at 950 Yates, across the street from London Drugs and Market on Yates, has a long history of independent businesses, including Shatterbox Coffee and a cannabis store or two. It’s flanked on three sides by condos, creating a unique micro-environment that is protected from the wind and typically a few degrees warmer than anywhere closer to the water. “It’s partly inspired by traditional German beer gardens, which used trees and foliage to help cool the beer in storage,” says Barnard. “But more so, it’s reflective of the outdoor spaces in rad dive bars in southern California that I love.”

JOHANN VINCENT

Boomtown’s intricate wooden, multi-tier deck faces toward the street, giving patrons a people-watching opportunity that rivals any patio in town (very likely to be referred to as the “Boomtown Bleachers”). With a flagship tree centred in the upper section, a beer hut with 18 taps, ample greenery carefully chosen by Barnard throughout, plenty of dog-friendly seating and a zone right in front for those who want to keep close to street activity, Boomtown’s garden will bring a much-desired vibrancy to what has been a dead-space for too long (it also has ample space for bike parking and a few short-term parking spots for to-go food). It’s a social, public outdoor space designed for good times. The Food & Drinks Lynch has a knack for creating menus with broad appeal. At Boomtown, he’s focused primarily on burritos, but not just burritos—birria burritos. For those unacquainted with birria, it’s a Mexican dish from the state of Jalisco and is often served like tacos but not exclusively. Birria burritos use the jus from the cooking

of the meat as a dipping sauce (something like a beef dip, but way, way better). Lynch’s long-term partner, Rebecca Teskey, owns Farm & Field Butchers and is collaborating with Boomtown to deliver high-value meat dishes at a reasonable price point. Despite the signage out front, the menu goes far beyond burritos. Lynch and Teskey have created a homemade nine-layer dip (or seven-layer, for the vegetarians), as well as taco bowls, a pile of vegetarian and vegan options, and simple salty snacks to complement the garden beverages. It’s simplicity focused on flavour (something this writer loves). Boomtown also has classic cocktails, mostly focused on tequila and other related spirits—margaritas, tall cans of Tecate, that kind of thing. And while the indoor space may be relatively small, it also packs out and delivers an energy that is alluring for anyone looking to get lost in their own city. The Attitude Gritty isn’t quite the right term for Boomtown. The expense that went into renovating the long rundown space both inside and out suggests a particular commitment to quality. It was a complete overhaul, with a new exposed kitchen, a large timber deck outside, a bar on the main floor and other high-end fixtures and features, yet within it there remains a feeling of independence and individuality that reflects Southern California counterculture. Everything here is far from precious. The important thing is that patrons can create their own experience, whether as a place to get lost for hours or somewhere to just dip into and grab food on the way home. Everyone is welcome to be themselves—and in an area of town that is set to explode over the next short while, that kind of attitude is incredibly appreciated and, perhaps, a look into Victoria’s future. ADRIEN SALA

Eating Well For Less Maiiz Nixtamal 540 FISGARD ST. BETWEEN GOVERNMENT AND WHARF, 778-433-1544

AZTEC WARRIORS ENJOYED A chocolate drink called atole in the mornings, and now, so can we. We are incredibly lucky to have Mexican food of this calibre here in Victoria. Chef Israel Alvarez Molina used to work at Pujol in Mexico City, which is famous for re-creating traditional cooking methods. This chocolate drink has no dairy – it is made of Sirene chocolate, Sri Lankan cinnamon, anise, and cloves, and interestingly, is thickened and made creamy with a corn base. At Maiiz, all the corn is put through the traditional process called nixtamalization, where it is soaked for 16 hours, creating a chemical transformation that makes it digestible. All the tortillas and tamales here are made with it; the difference in taste between these tortillas and many store-bought ones is like the difference between fresh ground and instant coffee. In other words, no comparison. Mushroom quesadillas for $11 are fried with a variety of mushrooms from Forager Galley Co. The chef suggests prying the quesadilla open and stuffing it with the accompanying citrus cabbage coleslaw and guajillo pepper hot sauce. The beef tacos with mole are sensational. The mole sauce has 22 ingredients, including sesame seeds, various fruits and vegetables, and chocolate. The triple-A Angus grass-fed beef is topped with an explosion of colour in the form of reddish-purple pickled onions interspersed with edible flowers and a crumble of white feta. At Christmas, Mexican families traditionally gather to make tamales, and here you can enjoy part of that experience by partaking in the moist and flavourful braised turkey or chicken chorizo tamales. Take note that Maiiz is open to retail only on Fridays to Sundays from 10-6, so plan for the weekend to avoid being disappointed!

CAFÉ LUNCH DINNER ELIZABETH NYLAND

handcrafted pizza, custom cocktails, local wines, wine flights, outdoor patio & indoor pop-up patio FARO Lane 1175 Beach Drive 250-940-0302 OAKBAYBEACHHOTEL.COM/FAROPIZZA 16 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

@faropizza

Rotating flavours of Tamales made with fresh Nixtamal Masa dough and local ingredients

Holiday Season is upon us. Let’s Celebrate!

ELIZABETH MONK

The Bard and Banker 1022 GOVERNMENT AT FORT STREET, 250-953-9993

DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON, this is the place to go for a celebratory mimosa tower and an affordable and generous breakfast. If a tower of mimosas is just a bit too festive for you, there is a deal before 11 a.m. when individual drinks are 25 percent off, so you can start your day with a $7.50 mimosa. Breakfast is from 7 a.m. to noon every day and has hearty classics, including a Croque Monsieur, as well as some more modern dishes like Avocado Toast and a Hippie Breakfast Bowl. The very filling Croque Monsieur for $16 features bread from Irene’s Bakery, Swiss cheese and back bacon with a smear of mustard, and is baked in a béchamel sauce. For a Canadian twist, crispy hash browns are served on the side. Also generous in size is the Avocado Toast for $14, loaded with mashed avocado, chèvre, and red and green tomatoes, with an attractive balsamic drizzle over top. This is a fork and knife situation, for sure.

A lighter choice is the Hippie Breakfast Bowl for $12.85. This is a bowl of vanilla chia pudding, with the chia soaked the right amount of time to maintain bite and avoid the slipperiness that can happen with chia. It is topped with coconut quinoa granola and seasonal fruit.

105-2854 Peatt Rd Langford • 778-432-2233 • houseofboateng.ca

The décor is cozy with lots of wood, brass, and leather. TVs are on downstairs, but upstairs is free of big screens if watching sports is not your thing. Keep checking in with The Bard and Banker. At print time, they were pondering bringing back their $9 before 9 a.m. breakfast special.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

Avocado Toast topped with soft poached eggs 17

Count Niccolo’s Nightcap

ere at Nimble, we are all about efficiency. This recipe is dessert and digestif all in one. The Chartreuse gives a texture and sweetness boost along with some ginger, clove and apple notes to support Fernet Branca’s strong bitter mint profile.

*If you have access to an espresso machine, you can turn this into a pick me up with a double shot or build this in the mug with steamed milk on top for a frothy consistency! NATE CAUDLE

Count Niccolo’s Nightcap Makes 1 drink 1 oz (30mL) Fernet Branca 1/2 oz (15mL) Green Chartreuse 1 1/2 oz (45mL) Chocolate syrup 4 oz (120mL) Simmered milk GLASS - Coffee Mug

METHOD - Build ingredients in a saucepan or pot over medium heat. Stir with a spoon to incorporate the ingredients when simmering. Once mixture is hot and steamy (do not boil!), pour into coffee mug, and top with whipped cream. GARNISH - Mint sprig and chocolate shavings Nate Caudle is co-owner of the Nimble Bar Co. PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ SERGEEVA, KREINICK

18 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Gary’s Famous Toasted Sesame Aioli

AT founder Gary Hynes found this recipe years ago, tweaked it, and took this dip as a contribution to many holiday house parties. After the first year of making and sharing the aioli, hosts used to request he please bring “that wonderful sesame dip again” the next year, and the year after that, and so on. I hope you, and your friends, like it as much as we do.

Gary’s Toasted Sesame Aioli Makes 1¼ cups 1 cup mayo 2 Tbsp sesame oil 4 tsp soy sauce 4 tsp fresh lemon juice 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds (plus a bit more for sprinkling on top) 1 tsp finely minced fresh ginger 2 medium cloves garlic, finely minced Optional: ½ tsp black sesame seeds for garnish

Place all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir until thoroughly combined and smooth. Pour into a serving dish and top with a few toasted white sesame seeds (you can use a few black sesame seeds to garnish if desired). Serve with crudites, crackers, or breadsticks for dipping.

S T Y L ING

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Jennifer Danter

Jacqueline Downey

GIFT BASKETS • CATERING • STAFF PARTIES

NICHEVICTORIA .CA BROADMEAD VILLAGE 778-432-4243

Great Wines and Lasting Memories for this season. Try our “foodie” wines with wonderful local foods or enjoy a glass cuddled up with your favourite movie. Give a gift of wines as 2 bottle gift packs with great recipe ideas such as our mulled wine gift box, red wines as a rouge Manhattan, our WOW factor blackberry with cocktails ideas such our Bourbon smash. Cheers.

Rocky Creek Winery

1854 MYHREST ROAD, COWICHAN BAY ROCKYCREEKWINERY.CA

EAT’s 2 Holiday Gif

Instant Coffee

We start with our favorite Brazilian coffee from our friends at Fazenda Serrado; from there the fine folks at Hasty take over, only extracting the best part of the coffee (only coffee and water are used in the process). No matter where you are, just add water and you’ve got a great coffee. When you’re flying, camping, staring out the window on an uninviting winter morning, or dreading the thought of drinking pre-ground coffee while you’re visiting your relatives, we’ve got you covered! Anywhere. Anytime.

Fernwood Coffee Company 1105 CALEDONIA AVE T. (250) 590-3320 FERNWOODCOFFEE.COM

Uniquely Curated. Exceptionally Preserved.

At SaltSpring Kitchen, we strive to elevate every meal and the moments that surround them. Our well-curated line of savoury, spicy & sweet preserves and hot sauces are sure to surprise and delight. Add a little SaltSpring Kitchen magic to your holiday entertaining and gift-giving this season. SALTSPRINGKITCHEN.COM

Our pizza is crazy good – just like this guy! For 10+ years we’ve been serving award winning wood-fired pizza, local wine, craft beer and more! Join us in Victoria or Cobble Hill for a delicious, casual meal with family and friends or bring home our house-made specialties: pepperoni, meatballs, sausage, tiramisu, gelato and frozen pizza too! Pizza. People. Passion. It’s what we’re all about!

Pizzeria Prima Strada PIZZERIAPRIMASTRADA.COM

Maison Cookware + Bakeware…+ Mixology!

Just in time for the holiday season, Maison now offers all the best tools, bitters and books to outfit your bar cart, plus stocking-stuffer sized cocktail kits from The Cocktail Box. Need the perfect gift for the cook or baker in your life? They’ve got you covered there too!

Maison Cookware + Bakeware This Holiday Season, Goldstream Distillery is proud to showcase our Bronze Medal awarded Canadian Whisky. Its rich colour and smoky finish, along with our new reusable bottle, help make this a great gift idea for whisky lovers and small batch enthusiasts. Along with our incredibly smooth Goldstream Vodka and 9 botanical Goldstream Gin, our Whisky can be bought at many BC Liquor stores, select private stores or on-line at: goldstreamdistillery.com

1-6332 METRAL DRIVE, NANAIMO 250-933-1800 MAISONCOOKWARE.COM

Goldstream Distillery

UNIT 4A 4715 TRANSCANADA HWY DUNCAN BC 250-213-8476 INFO@GOLDSTREAMDISTILLERY.COM

EAT SPONSORED PROMOTION

34.884 in

T’s 2021 Gift Guide

Sheringham Distillery’s highly anticipated tri-packs return just in time for the holidays! Introducing a new decadent liqueu with a festive twist for chocolate lovers! Sirene Chocolate Liqueur has notes of fruit, citrus, bitter chocolate, leather or fudge and is lightly back-sweetened. Alongside the Sirene Chocolate Liqueur you’ll find their international award-winning Seaside Gin and their version of a proper classic, London Dry Gin. Available in local private liquor stores in November. Contact Sheringham Distillery for more details.

Sheringham Distillery

6731 WEST COAST ROAD, SOOKE (778) 425 2019 SHERINGHAMDISTILLERY.COM

This festive season, show your appreciation for someone special with a gift certificate to The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden. We make everything in house from scratch with quality ingredients to provide an unparalleled taste experience. Let us spoil you or a friend with exceptional service, great food and a crackling fire.

The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden 1964 FAIRFIELD ROAD 778-265-6466 ABKHAZITEAHOUSE.COM

Coolshanagh Chardonnay 2018

Recently awarded a whopping 94 points by respected wine writer, Tim Pawsey, Coolshanagh Chardonnay 2018 is amongst the most coveted white wines in British Columbia. Grapes are sourced from a single vineyard in Naramata that specialists note sits in the top 15% globally for Chardonnay production. This opulent wine is a pure expression of authentic Okanagan terroir, and a sip you’ll never forget. Lumette’s 0.00% non-alcohol spirits are perfect for creating any holiday cocktail, whether you are celebrating at home or at a friend’s. The London Dry and Bright Light gin flavours are meant to be mixed into a cocktail as simple as a GnT, French 75, or sour. The new LumRum golden rum flavour is perfect with cola, ginger ale or in any tiki cocktail. Visit our website for recipes, available at private liquor stores, gourmet food shops and some grocery retailers.

Coolshanagh Vineyard COOLSHANAGH.CA

Lumette

250-880-1818 ENJOYLUMETTE.COM

Give the gift of experience!

From soaking in heated seaside mineral pools, to relaxing with a Boathouse Spa treatment or indulging at FARO Handcrafted Pizza and Tasting Room or The Snug Pub, an Oak Bay Beach Hotel eGift Card provides the ultimate luxurious escape for all those near and dear to you this holiday season.

Oak Bay Beach Hotel 1175 BEACH DRIVE 250-598-4556 OAKBAYBEACHHOTEL.COM

Somebody hard to buy for? Need a stocking stuffer? Grab a gift card from any one of EAT’s advertisers. PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/JOINGATE

EAT SPONSORED PROMOTION

Rib Eye Steak with Plum Jus

22 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Rebecca Wellman

Rib Eye Steak with Potato Parsnip Purée and Plum Jus

omfort food. That’s what this season is all about, don’t you think? And this very comforting dish barely needs a recipe. It is versatile in that you can purée any combination of root vegetables you have on hand, grill a chicken breast or a halibut steak instead of a rib eye, or use up the kale in the fridge instead of the arugula.

I chose plums for the jus initially because they are mellow, not too sweet, and pair nicely with spices and beef. If I were to choose a second fruit though, I’d go with blood oranges. Cranberries would work here as well, and, in a pinch, use a plum or apricot preserve and skip the sugar. Serves 4.

Marinade 1½ lbs plum flesh (about 4 large plums or 12 prune plums) ¼ cup sugar 2 shallots, roughly chopped 2 large cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1 star anise 2 cloves ½ cup full-bodied red wine 1 tsp sherry or balsamic vinegar ¾ cup beef stock 5 sprigs fresh thyme 1½ tsp salt 4 6-oz rib eye steaks In a large pot over medium heat, combine plums, sugar, shallots, garlic, star anise, and cloves. Stir together until the sugar is melted, about 3 minutes. Add the wine, sherry (or vinegar), and the beef stock. Stir in the thyme and the salt. Simmer gently until plums have broken down and liquid is thickened, about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Place steaks in a large zip-lock bag and pour in ¾ cup of the marinade. Return the remaining liquid to the pot. Marinate steaks for at least 3 hours, and up to overnight.

Plum Jus Remaining marinade ½ tsp Dijon mustard ½ cup beef stock ¼ cup red wine ¼ tsp ground black pepper 1 Tbsp butter, roughly chopped Whisk the mustard into the remaining marinade in the pot, then stir in the beef stock, wine, and pepper. At a gentle simmer, reduce the marinade by about a quarter, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in the chopped butter. Cover to keep warm until ready to use.

’Tis the season for shaking, stirring and sipping. Q Bar at Fairmont Empress offers a curated holiday bar menu bursting with creative modern variations of classic festive cocktails.

Purée 3 lb potatoes, can be a mix of russet and white or yellow, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1½ lbs parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup half and half 1 Tbsp butter Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and parsnips, and boil gently until cooked through, 12-15 minutes. Drain and return to the pot. Stir in the half and half and the butter, then using a hand mixer or an immersion blender, puree the vegetables until they are smooth and silky. Season generously with salt. Cover to keep warm until ready to use.

Salad 4 cups arugula ½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 small red apple, cut into matchsticks 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp lemon juice Toss all ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Set aside until ready to use.

Assemble Remove the steaks from the fridge 30 minutes before you are ready to cook them. Remove from marinade, and pat them dry. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Discard the marinade. Cook the steaks however you like, on the grill or in a pan, until the desired temperature is reached. For medium-rare, the internal temperature of a steak should be 145°F after it has rested. Divide the purée between 4 plates. Drizzle with jus, top with steak, then salad. Serve immediately.

fairmont-empress.com 23

Food for Thought

Writer Gillie Easdon talks to a range of professionals about some gnarly issues facing Victoria’s hospitality industry.

opics such as a living wage and tips are tricky (read testy, hot-button, unresolved) for the hospitality industry. Owners, chefs, kitchen crew, servers, and managers’ perspectives vary, and there are several angles to consider. We don’t offer answers here, but we did connect with different people in this industry to share what’s going on, what matters, and what motivates. Experiential voices—the opinions and experiences of people who do the various jobs—are key to delving into this subject in a comprehensive fashion. A huge thank you to everyone who weighed in, named and anonymously.

Early in the ongoing pandemic, this industry was challenged, and many people fell on tough financial times. Businesses that could, pivoted, and found themselves reevaluating operations, staffing, wages, tips, the meaning of life. Across the board, everyone saw needs and opportunities for change and improvements. “The industry is broken” was a common refrain. In the words of Spinnakers’ Paul Hadfield, “We had to come back different.” Let’s begin with the living wage.

Tales of a Living Wage The basics: BC’s minimum wage increased to $15.20 from $14.60 in June 2021. A living wage is the minimum income necessary to meet basic household needs. It is $19.39 an hour in Victoria. This figure is based on dual incomes with two dependents.

living wage there is $20.95, so after a few months of finding ways to reduce costs and streamline operations, they raised it to $21. Their logic stemmed from wanting to effect meaningful change and also honour the living wage. I talked with Miranda, who pointed out that as an inexpensive, authentic taco joint, raising taco prices from $5 to $6 was a considerable jump. With Tortilleria, tips are relegated to purely optional “for outstanding service,” but it is no longer the patron’s responsibility to supplement minimum wage.

In mid-2020, Cliff Leir of Agrius and Fol Epi announced he was killing tips and increasing the hourly wage to $20 an hour for staff. He sought to strengthen the culture and provide stability to his team that did not rely on tips. “For our staff, that meant a livable wage. And for us, stability meant having those staff.” To afford this increase, Leir increased prices and posted education for his customers. A year and a half later, his team remains tight, and the clientele is consistent. Fol Epi and Agrius serve all-organic, higher-end-priced fare, and most of their operation is counter service.

Being invested in your staff holds many benefits.

In July 2021, chef Deb Peña and Miranda Caterer, owners of Dos Amores Tortilleria on Salt Spring Island, shared on their blog that they were raising wages and prices to better support their staff. The

Early COVID, Paul Hadfield and the full Spinnakers’ team hashed out how to create parity. He was also conscious of their responsibility to farmers and was keen to get the kitchen running to safeguard the food supply chain. After collaborative discussions, all staff are now paid $20 an hour with front of house (FOH) taking 65 percent of tips and back (BOH), 35 percent. According to Paul, the team who remained during this transition has a greater understanding of what one another does, and there’s a greater sense of cohesion. This wasn’t a fit with a few seasoned servers, who secured work elsewhere. Those craving stability and the shift into a value-based model stayed.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Fol Epi/Agrius owner Clif Leir and staff 24 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Kitchen Party Historically, kitchen pay sucks. Sometimes you might do well as a chef or sous, but no one is drawn to the kitchen with dollar signs in their eyes. In an era where other trades are bringing it in hand over fist, it is startling that BOH wages lag. Great food brings people in, keeps people coming back, and so do specials nights. There are many costs and pieces to consider when running any establishment. Everyone interviewed supported paying kitchens a living wage, although often it is bumped to that as a result of tips.

It was also suggested that better pay might improve FOH/BOH relations, which are routinely not super. Traditionally, BOH is cis-male, FOH primarily cis-female, and the owners are cis-male, which has created a power dynamic of two quite distinct groups of people in a workplace. A pandemic plus is that kitchen pays have had to increase.

Zac Young is head chef at McRae’s, where the kitchen has a 3.5 percent tip out. He has a rule with his team that servers don’t talk about tips in the kitchen, and the kitchen can’t speak about server tips. He has spent years with his now-spouse, a past bartender, living a pretty sweet life, but mostly on her tips, certainly not on his wage. “There needs to be some kind of reckoning. Some servers and bartenders are living high, and cooks are impoverished … But also, there is nothing like getting great service.” Zac focuses on his team’s morale. He supports mental health days. A few people followed him to this new establishment thanks to his ethos. “It takes both sides to do the job, and everyone works hard.” He supports paying people well because it also saves resources on training and hiring. Being invested in your staff holds many benefits. For him, it’s about teaching people and the buzz of the place, and the pandemic just made him love his work all the more. But loving your work doesn’t pay rent, mortgages, or other life costs. One chef and baker of 25 years pointed out that excellent servers who are engaging, informed and nimble—and can also faithfully describe the food and “not make me cringe”—work hard and deserve great pay. “Especially now. They put up with a lot.” Personally, she says, “I don’t ever want to talk to the people.” She says she loves what she does, but it is also about the pay and feeling supported. In all her years in a kitchen, she says, now is the first time she has felt comfortable wearing black leggings to work because she won’t be harassed—it’s an all-female kitchen. She observed that the industry was far more competitive before the pandemic. Her boss works the

Some servers allowed that if benefits were on the table, they would feel less proprietary about their tips hinges on service excellence. North American culture cherry-picks when, where and what is “worthy” of tips (no tipping for an RMT at a clinic, but yes at a spa, for example, a hotel porter, but not a concierge). It’s ridiculous.” Extensive research shows that bonuses (I’m the best!!!) or absence thereof (What did I do

JOHANN VINCENT

Langford Lanes kitchen supervisor Matt Swiech, also a chef, has been in the industry 22 years and worn many hats. There, FOH gives 7.5 percent to the kitchen, much better than the standard 1.5 -3.5 percent. During the pandemic, Matt witnessed many people leaving the industry for security. He is pleased with how Langford Lanes has worked with staff and implemented protocols. He was drawn to this industry for the food and the ability to see the world and work at the same time. “It would be nice to own a house one day,” he reflects. “Things are adapting and changing. It’s good.” Like many people, stability was not a driving force for Matt in pursuing hospitality as a career.

counter often, never taking a share of the tips. For her, the problem with the manager or owner collecting tips and disbursing them is trust. And that trust is not a given. Counter Service Counter service people being paid the same as the kitchen was generally supported by everyone I talked to. The Neighbourly Café at the KWENCH work + culture club on Store Street pays everyone a salaried living wage with benefits, and there is no tipping. Owner/founder Tessa McLoughlin finds tipping offensive. “It’s my job to ensure my staff are paid a living wage.” Australia, where she was born, does not have the intense tipping culture we do, although tipping exists. I spoke with a couple of her team. Shop stylist, barista, and musician Chai Sullivan shares that she was drawn to KWENCH by the authentic, values-based model and stability during the pandemic. “I could make double, triple my old wage at another café, but you have to accept how a customer treats you. Here, I am encouraged to set up boundaries, speak up, or refuse service if someone is being overtly sexual or says something inappropriate.” Shopkeeper and barista Ethan Van Dyck admits he hustles more when tips are on the table, although his professionalism and warm engagement with customers is consistent. Update: during the writing of this piece, after a year of operation, Tessa has reluctantly submitted to “Canada’s deeply ingrained tipping-as-incentive culture.” The hourly remains $20 per hour with benefits, but may shift to unsalaried. Tips from Neighbourly and bartending tips from KWENCH events will be pooled with all employees. “Everything we are about

Zachary Young of McRae's Bistro wrong!!???) do not support mental health (bonuses are a form of tipping), but at this time her hands are tied. Full Service Great servers can be the life of the party at one table, then set up a couple for the perfect 40th anniversary evening at the next. “You have to constantly be able to read people, scan how a room is going, and make sure people are safe,” explains industry pro AmberDawn Lamontagne. “We also contend with a lot more due to vaccine passports, high emotions, and frustration.” Excellent servers have to be pleasant, regardless of what’s happening behind the scenes or in their own lives. It is not just about taking an order and delivering food. If there were no tips, or they were pooled across the board, and everyone was paid the same, why would you bust your ass on busy nights when you can take a sleepy shift during the day? Incentivizing with tips, especially during late or popular times (when they wouldn’t mind being out for a bite or beverage themselves) keeps your star staff on board. In order for most small businesses to pay their staff more, the public has to pay more—this opinion was consistent with a number of pros and newbs cross-industry. One industry pro asserted that it was “a gambling spirit” that has kept people in serving positions with tips longer than they may have if they made a fixed rate. It’s sales. Salespeople often thrive on commission, and, in this case, the commission is tips. I heard 25

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of a happy diner a couple of years ago describe the talents of champion server Jax Downey this way: “I don’t even drink cognac. She said that is what I needed, and you know what? She was right.” That wonderful reflection on a guest’s evening experience describes why a good server is so valuable to a business in terms of profits.

one co-owner said, “It’s on servers. If they don’t have a safety net, that’s on them.” I do feel the need to point out that “if they want server tips, become a server” does not allow that 1) excellent servers are a specific talent and skillset and 2) Our culture rewards attractiveness (looks and personality, although how that presents is diverse now) and allocates less value to others.

Counter service

It Is About the Money Some people came to this industry to make money, good money, lots of it. There’s nothing wrong with that. And there are successful local businesses who have taken their staff to Mexico or rented an Airbnb with long-time staff who are paid using traditional pay structures. Others have been paying well above industry rates because they’ve always wanted their team to know they are valued and also to save money on retraining, etc. at the expense of owner salaries. Speaking with a few patrons, I discovered that

people being paid the same as the

kitchen was generally

supported by everyone I talked to.

26 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

JOHANN VINCENT

Serving is historically one of the few industries where women and nonwhite, straight men could get ahead financially. One baker mentioned her friend who bleached her hair, got a boob job and lip filler and paid off her med school with bartending tips. And here’s the thing—she took a sexist situation and turned it to her advantage—power to her. Yes, there is sexism, although harassment is down. And, says Amber-Dawn Lamontagne, people have “more ‘permission’—ugh, I hate saying that, but it is true—”, to speak up. “You stay sometimes because you feel supported; other times, because the money is great. I’ve been on teams where people would bleed for management, and ones who wouldn’t care if the whole place burned down. Values and empathy should always be the foundation, but…” When it comes to declaring tips and increasing EI etc. for servers,

Paul Hatfield of Spinnakers

some resent tipping, particularly at cafés or fast food places. Others enjoy participating in the experience.

government-mandated service charge versus tipping model arriving one day soonish. We’ll see.

Running a business is expensive—rent/ lease/mortgage, heating, lighting, equipment, wages, rising food costs, alcohol, etc. Few owners are rolling around in piles of cash, laughing about how much they can squeeze from their staff. As a patron, how much of a jump in menu prices will you bear? Some servers allowed that if benefits were on the table, they would feel less proprietary about their tips. The fact is, however, that some owners’ attitudes are “You want more money? Sell more beer.” Is it reasonable to now expect everyone to come from a moral high ground? We’re all not in the same boat. Myriad personal, financial, legal, and other situations contribute to what we do for work, whether it’s by choice or by dint of the fact that this is the work available to us, allowing us to accomplish what we need to accomplish in a day. One co-owner foresees a

So, what now? For now, there are options for people. If a living wage supports your goals working in the industry, check out Living Wage for Families (www.livingwageforfamilies.ca/greater_victoria) for a growing list of local businesses that pay all direct and contract staff the living wage rate for their region. To dig deeper into this meaty and critical discussion, local group the Bread and Butter Collective (www.breadandbuttercollective.com) is exploring industry issues in order to collaborate on, discuss, and secure its long-term success. However that looks for us diners, drinkers, and food lovers, it’s something we can all get behind. GILLIE EASDON

Donate Once, Double Your Impact For every $1 you donate to United Way, $2 will go to help kids, youth and families up to $250,000 thanks to the Blue Heron Advisory Group of CIBC Wood Gundy Match Fund.

Southern Vancouver Island

In Greater Victoria, almost 15% of children live in poverty with over 13,000 facing food insecurity.

Donate today and help local families succeed.

uwsvi.ca JOHANN VINCENT

Reducing holiday food waste starts with rethinking how we shop. Turkey leftovers are only loved for so long, so size your bird accordingly—and your sides, too!

LET’S STOP WASTING FOOD.

crd.bc.ca/lovefood

CIBC Private Wealth Management consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. “CIBC Private Wealth Management” is a registered trademark of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc. CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and a Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada. Graham Isenegger and Neil Chappell are Investment Advisors with CIBC Wood Gundy in Victoria, BC. The views of Graham Isenegger and Neil Chappell do not necessarily reflect those of CIBC World Markets Inc. If you are currently a CIBC Wood Gundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor.

Masterclass

Bûche de Noël

ou have to be a little bit cake-obsessed to make a Bûche de Noël. Like any worthwhile project, this dessert requires several steps. But if you enjoy baking, this holiday centrepiece is sure to put you in a festive mood. Who can resist a light chocolate sponge cake rolled-up with coffee buttercream, crunchy bits of toffee, and dark chocolate ganache, then decorated with chocolate “bark” and fanciful meringue “mushrooms”? (No one will guess how easily these edible garnishes came together.) This distinctive cake is a nod to the yule log, a traditional centrepiece for fireside gatherings and Christmas celebrations. Steeped in ceremony and superstition, the yule log’s fabled history is as diverse as it is quirky. From anointing the wood with holy water, or wine, to believing it would bring bad luck if it didn’t catch fire during the first lighting, the yule log was a solstice ritual. My favourite narrative credits the log for burning away the past year’s mistakes and bringing a fresh start to the new one. A Bûche de Noël might not unravel the year’s blunders, but it’s sure to delight family and friends. And with a bit of planning, you’ll be pleasantly surprised how easily each component comes together. It’s essentially a sheet-pan sponge cake, made with whipped egg whites and (separately) whipped yolks, and gently folded together with pastry flour. While the cake is still warm, it’s rolled-up in a tea towel to help maintain its shape. 28 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

R ECIPE + T E X T

S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Denise Marchessault

Deb Garlick

What makes this Bûche de Noël so special is the sumptuous coffee buttercream, a filling that smacks of French patisserie. Authentic buttercream has a luxurious mouthfeel (unlike the thick powered-sugar frostings that sometimes bear the same name). To make buttercream, sugar is heated in a saucepan until it liquefies and reaches 235-240°F, and then poured into whipped egg yolks. While this might sound complicated, it’s only a matter of clipping a candy thermometer to the side of your saucepan to gauge the temperature. Once the mixture cools, butter and coffee extract are added. For a delicious textural contrast, the buttercream is studded with bits of chopped toffee. I used chopped Skor bars but occasionally you can find chopped toffee in bulk bins. The log is covered in dark chocolate ganache and garnished with paper-thin chocolate “bark” for a double-chocolate punch. The bark is made by spreading melted chocolate onto a sheet of parchment and rolling the parchment up. Once the chocolate cools, it’s peeled from the parchment into lovely, curved shards. Mushroom meringue garnishes are easily created with a pastry bag: a little dab of meringue for the mushroom “cap” and a smaller dab for the “stem.” The meringue is baked in a low oven until crisp, and the caps and stems are joined together with a bit of chocolate ganache. There’s nothing like a holiday baking project to put you in a festive mood. And a Bûche de Noël could be the start of a new Christmas tradition.

Bûche de Noêl

Pour the batter onto the prepared baking tray and level with an off-set palette knife or the flat edge of a plastic scraper.

Cover images feature 11/2 cakes

Flip the sponge cake upside down and remove the top tray. Carefully remove the bottom tray so that the tea towel is directly on the counter and the cake lies flat. Peel the parchment from the cake and while still warm, dust it with the remaining icing sugar.

Chocolate Sponge Cake

Yields 1 cake ¾ cup + 2 Tbsp pastry flour (or cake and pastry flour) ½ tsp table salt 2 Tbsp cocoa powder, divided 6 large egg whites, room temperature ½ cup superfine or granulated sugar, divided 6 large egg yolks, room temperature 2 Tbsp icing (powdered) sugar—for dusting the baked sponge

Special Equipment

Using your index finger, create a little trench around the outer edges of the batter, where it meets the pan’s edge. This helps keep the edges neat.

17 x 11.5-inch baking tray lined with parchment paper (base only) Additional baking tray (close in size to the tray above) Offset palate knife or plastic pastry scraper Fine-mesh strainer (for sifting) Clean tea towel

Using your tea towel, carefully roll the sponge cake, from the short end, around the tea towel. This helps the cake hold its shape for when the filling is eventually added. Set aside with the seam facing down. The sponge cake needs to cool completely before adding the buttercream.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare your parchment-lined tray before you start making the cake. Your mixing bowl and whisk must be meticulously clean as any traces of fat could comprise the volume of the whipped egg whites. In a small bowl, sift together the pastry flour, salt, and cocoa powder, and mix to combine. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand-up mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, or a medium bowl, whip the egg whites at medium-high speed for about a minute until frothy. Gradually add about half the sugar, increase the speed to high, and continue whisking for another minute or two or until the whites form a billowy, glossy meringue with firm peaks. Transfer to a clean bowl. In the same bowl in which the whites were mixed, combine the eggs yolks and the balance of sugar and whip together at medium-high speed. Gradually increase the speed to high and continue whisking until the yolks have increased in volume and are thick, pale, and glossy, about 3-4 minutes. Gently fold the meringue into the yolk mixture in 3-4 batches until no streaks remain. Carefully fold in the flour/cocoa powder mixture, in 3-4 batches, until the batter is uniform. (It will deflate somewhat with the addition of flour.)

Bake in a preheated oven for 7-10 minutes, turning the baking tray once, until the sponge springs back when pressed with a finger. Check the cake after seven minutes as it can become dry if baked too long. While still warm, loosen the edges of the cake with a knife. Sift half the icing sugar evenly over the sponge. Cover with a clean tea towel and place a baking tray on top.

Coffee Buttercream

This recipe involves cooked sugar, so please read the entire recipe before you start. ¼ cup instant coffee crystals, such as Taster’s Choice brand 6 egg yolks ¾ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup water 1¾ cup unsalted butter, softened to room temperature*

Special Equipment Small fine-mesh strainer Candy thermometer Pastry brush * The butter should be soft enough to spread easily. If not, whisk the butter until soft before you get started. Before you start, place a cup of water and a pastry brush near the stove. As the sugar cooks, you’ll need to brush down any bits of sugar that spatter to the edge of the pan. This prevents the sugar from crystallizing. Pour the instant coffee crystals into a small bowl and drizzle in just enough boiling hot water, about 2 Tbsp, to make a thick syrup. Strain the mixture, and transfer to a small, lidded container. 29

In the bowl of a stand-up mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, or a medium bowl, whisk the yolks at medium-high speed. Gradually increase the speed to high and continue whisking until the yolks have increased in volume and are thick, pale, and glossy, about 3-4 minutes. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water and clip a candy thermometer to the pan. Heat the sugar mixture over medium heat just until it reaches 235240°F°, the “soft ball” stage. (a reference that refers to the sugar’s pliability: when a thread of heated sugar is dipped in cold water, it can be shaped, between index finger and thumb, into a tiny soft bead or ball). Brush down any bits of sugar that spatter to the sides of the pan. Without delay, pour the hot sugar mixture into the beaten egg yolks, in a thin steady stream, whisking at high speed while you do so. (Don’t worry if some of the sugar syrup sticks to the sides of your mixing bowl.) Continue whisking until your mixing bowl is no longer warm and the yolks are thick and glossy, about 2-3 minutes. (The mixture must cool down enough so that it doesn’t melt the butter that follows.)

Putting It All Together

Once the buttercream is firm and the ganache has thickened to a spreadable consistency, spread a layer of ganache over the buttercream, including the ends. Reserve any leftover ganache for the mushroom meringue garnish, if using.

Unfurl the sponge cake onto a sheet of parchment or waxed paper and remove the tea towel. (The cake will retain some of its curl.) Spread the buttercream evenly on the cake to its edges, reserving about ½ cup. Sprinkle the crushed Skor bars evenly over the buttercream and re-roll the cake, placing it seam-side down.

Add the softened butter in large spoonfuls and whisk until well incorporated. Add the coffee syrup, a teaspoon a time, until you’re satisfied with the taste. (I use about 2-3 teaspoons, but coffee syrups differ in strength, so adjust to taste.) Store leftover coffee syrup in the fridge.

Carefully transfer the rolled cake to a serving tray (I use two metal spatulas, one at each end, to lift the cake).

Toffee Crunch Filling

4 Skor bars, 39 g each, or 156 g (5½ oz) of Skor Toffee Bits, if you can find them

Garnish with chocolate bark and meringue mushrooms, if desired. Note, the ganache must be at room temperature for the chocolate bark to stick to it.

Crush the Skor bars with a rolling pin, but not too finely. You still want them to have a little texture and crunch. If using the Toffee Bits, no need to crush them.

Chocolate Ganache Topping

¾ cup (about 4½ oz), good quality dark chocolate, ideally 60% cocoa, chopped into small pieces ¾ cup, about 6 oz, whipping cream (35%) Place the chopped chocolate into a small bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it just starts to simmer. Pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate. Stir the mixture until smooth and wellcombined. Set aside at room temperature.

Spread the reserved buttercream over the rolled cake, ensuring the ends are covered (no need to cover the base of the cake). Refrigerate, loosely covered, for about 40 minutes.

If not making the chocolate bark, you drag the tines of a fork along the chocolate ganache, horizontally, to create a log-like pattern. The cake can be stored in the fridge but is best served at room temperature. Bûche de Noël freezes well, wrapped in plastic. Decorate with chocolate bark after the cake has thawed.

Mushroom garnishes see pag 31

30 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Chocolate Bark Garnish

¾ cup (about 4½ oz), good quality dark chocolate, ideally 60% cocoa, chopped into small pieces

To use, unfurl the firmed chocolate and break-off the pieces.

To remove the peaks from the meringue mounds (created by the piping tip), dip your finger in water, and gently flatten them.

2 sheets of parchment paper, about 16 x 15 inches Place the chocolate in a bowl fitted over a saucepan with about an inch of simmering water. (The bowl should not touch the water.) Stir the chocolate and once it starts to melt, turn off the heat and continue stirring until the mixture is completely melted. Pour the mixture onto one sheet of parchment and smooth it evenly with an offset spatula, leaving a border of about an inch. Decorate the Bûche de Noël by pressing the chocolate “bark” shards, horizontally, onto the roomtemperature ganache.

Bake for about an hour or until the meringues are dry and easily removed from the baking tray. Check the meringues after about 30 minutes; the smaller meringues will be ready before the larger ones. Some of the meringues will crack. Arrange the meringues into groups of mushroom caps and (smaller) stems. Using a sharp knife, slice a bit off the dome of each smaller meringue (stem) so it forms a flat surface.

Cover with the remaining sheet of parchment and loosely roll up the chocolate. Refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.

Meringue Mushroom Garnish I use a pastry bag and piping tip to create these edible garnishes. The recipe makes more than you need, but I enjoy serving a few “mushrooms” alongside each slice. 3 large egg whites, room temperature Pinch cream of tartar ¾ cup superfine or granulated sugar Cocoa powder, optional

Special Equipment

Working with one meringue at a time, spread a thin layer of leftover chocolate ganache over the flat base of the cap.

Pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch round piping tip Baking tray lined with parchment paper or a non-stick baking mat Preheat oven to 200°F. In the meticulously clean bowl of a standup mixer, or a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of cream of tartar, at medium-high speed for about a minute until the whites are frothy. Gradually add the sugar, increase the speed to high, and continue whisking for another minute or two or until the whites form a billowy, glossy meringue with firm but soft peaks. Spoon the meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a round piping tip.

Press the flat end of the stem to the base of the cap to form a mushroom. Continue with the remaining meringues.

Pipe the meringue into small mounds, anywhere from half an inch to 2 inches in diameter, on the prepared baking tray. For each mushroom cap, you’ll need a slightly smaller mound for the stem.

If desired, dust with cocoa powder. Meringues will last for days in an airtight container stored in a cool dry place.

Ports in the Storm

Winter is a great time for a seaside getaway to watch the wild west coast winter weather in cozy comfort.

inter may be relatively warm on the west coast, but it’s also dramatically dark and stormy.

So it’s a great time for a seaside getaway, somewhere to curl up near a crackling fire to watch the big waves and wild winter weather in cozy comfort.

Storm-watching is the ultimate spectator sport, and whether you venture out to the big beaches near Tofino or stay closer to home around Sooke and Port Renfrew, there are good spots to book a room with a view of those stormy seas and hunker down with locally sourced food and drink. Here’s a look at some delicious destinations, with ocean-view rentals and the best places to source your supper. Make sure to call ahead to check opening hours and rates before you go—these hard-working entrepreneurs deserve some winter away time, too!

TOFINO AND ENVIRONS The stretch of coastline between Tofino and Ucluelet is the epitome of the storm-watching experience. Long Beach, a wide, 16-km stretch of sand in Pacific Rim National Park, is at the centre of it all, exposed to the brunt of those Pacific storms from November to March. It’s the place to experience the truly epic forces of nature—gale-force winds, torrential rains, 32 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

and the big, big waves that toss massive logs out of the surf like pick-up sticks. You just need to look at the big trees growing along this stretch of shoreline, their branches permanently swept back from the water, to appreciate the power of winter weather. Or head toward Ucluelet and the 9-km Wild Pacific Trail, designed to capture the very essence of the rainforest and the drama of wild winter storm-watching. The Lighthouse Loop takes you along the edge of Barkley Sound with crashing waves all around. SLEEP

WOR D S

Cinda Chavich In Ucluelet, Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, literally perched on a black rock above the pounding surf, is another epic spot to stay warm while watching winter storms. COOK/EAT There are plenty of options for dining out or stocking your holiday home pantry here. Notable restaurants include the new wood-fired Roar! at Hotel Zed, Wolf in the Fog, 1909 Kitchen, and casual Sobo. But The Pointe restaurant at The Wickaninnish Inn, with its 240º views, may be the finest spot to dine amid the stormy seas. Happy Hour and sunset suppers in the Great Room at Long Beach Lodge come a close second.

The luxurious Wickaninnish Inn pioneered the idea of stormy getaways, and every room has a view of Chesterman Beach and its spectacular surf. They have special storm packages, and even provide slickers and wellies.

When in Ucluelet, don’t miss a chance to eat at Pluvio, where chef Warren Barr’s seasonal local cuisine is superb.

But there are other great places to hunker down in storm season. The Pacific Sands resort on Cox Bay Beach is known for wild winter storm-watching. Their storm season packages (with discounted winter rates), include daily hot chocolate, movies, and popcorn for staying in by the fire, and rain gear for going out in the gales.

You’re spoiled for choice in Tofino when it comes to great food to go, too. Try Surfside Grill, right on the beach at Pacific Sands, the Tacofino bus just down the road, or L’il Ronnie’s Beachside BBQ at Mackenzie Beach, while its sister spot, The General Store, has groceries, coffee, sandwiches, wine, and beer to go.

Just down the beach is luxe Long Beach Lodge, with lodge rooms and cottages, each with hot tubs and fireplaces.

For deli foods, head to Picnic Charcuterie or Beachside Provisions at Hotel Zed. Visit the cluster of shipping container shops at the

base of Campbell Street for Ouest Artisan Patisserie, Chirpz, and Al’oha Poke.

and other small batch spirits, or the IPA from Sooke Brewing Co. in a 32-oz. canned Crowler.

Rhino Coffee downtown is a must. PizzaMoto (the newest venture from Shelter and Shed) offers delivery when staying in is your preferred option. Get groceries at the Tofino Co-op and Gaia Grocery in Tofino, or tiny Beaches Grocery near Chesterman Beach. Fill your growler at Tofino Brewing Co. and buy local spirits at Tofino Distillery.

On the way to French Beach, you’ll find Shirley Delicious, a quaint café for excellent coffee, big cinnamon buns, scones, muffins, and pastries to fuel a blustery day on the beach. A little further down the highway is Stoked Pizzeria, with a cozy wood-fired oven turning out pizzas and roasted vegetable salads, plus a market with ice, beer, and local foods to take away.

SOOKE Less than an hour outside Victoria, a getaway to Sooke makes a great base for storm-watching. Book into a seaside hotel or B&B, then explore the beaches in East Sooke Park, venture out onto Whiffin Spit, or drive further afield to watch the waves break along French Beach. Remember that storm season is wet and windy, so make sure to bring your warm fleece, waterproof jackets and boots, and stay off any rocky points—the big rogue waves are unpredictable and dangerous. SLEEP Sooke has a variety of accommodation, but the fully equipped vacation rentals at Sooke Harbour Resort and Marina make a convenient, pet-friendly base close to of one of the best restaurants on the island. Orveas Bay Oceanfront Resort is a hidden gem near Shirley, with cabins and a covered hot tub overlooking the ocean, the perfect place for storm-watching on a blustery day. Craidelonna is luxuriously remote with a multi-room lodge and private cottage. Rent the whole lodge with gourmet kitchen for a group, book one of the rooms and share the kitchen/common areas with other guests (The Nest at the top of the lodge has spectacular views) or book the private cottage with its own kitchen. COOK/EAT When in Sooke, the place to dine is Wild Mountain Food + Drink to experience chef Oliver Kienast’s inspired coastal cuisine. Dine in for a memorable meal or take out one of his exceptional picnics, house-made charcuterie boards, take-and-bake meals, or pizza from the wood-fired oven. You can also fill your fridge with local goodies from the Little Vienna Bakery, or single-origin coffees (and beans) with an Egg-a-majig breakfast sandwich and other goodies from the Treat Lab at Stick in the Mud Coffee House. There are plenty of local beverage options here, like Sheringham Distillery’s Seaside Gin, coffee liqueur,

Stop for a coffee (plus daily homemade soups, warming chili, sausage rolls, and other home baking) at Cold Shoulder Café and Bakery in Jordan River, where the local surfers come to fuel up. Or duck into the tasting room at the Tugwell Creek Honey Farm Meadery to chat with mead-maker Bob Liptrot and get something to slather on your toast (think local blackberry honey) and a few bottles of his mead or cyser to sip in the hot tub.

PACIFIC MARINE CIRCLE ROUTE Heading north along the Pacific Marine Circle Route (Highway 14) you can stop to watch storms on several rugged beaches, from French Beach to China Beach, Sandcut, and Sombrio beaches. Jordan River attracts surfers for its big waves—even bigger in winter. And the rugged Juan de Fuca Marine Trail offers many prime viewing locations along its 47 km length. SLEEP Point No Point is a destination ocean-side resort, originally built in 1952, with 25 charming beachfront log cabins and a fine dining restaurant (now open for take-out only). Although the lack of a dine-in option at present is a shame, the take-out food is great and you can also bring your own provisions and cook in your fully equipped kitchen while enjoying the luxury of a wood-burning fireplace and a private deck with hot tub, a perfect perch for watching the ocean action. Reserve by phone or snail mail (no email or online bookings). At the end of this stretch of highway, you’ll arrive in Port Renfrew, and one of Wild Renfrew’s Seaside Cottages makes a great spot for a cozy getaway weekend. It’s not exactly on the wild oceanside, but the comfortable two-bedroom cottages overlook the water and the marina boardwalk. Hike out to watch storms at Botanical Beach, see the massive oldgrowth trees creaking in the wind at Avatar Grove, or just watch the rain pelting on the pier. COOK/EAT When at Wild Renfrew, eat at the nearby Renfrew Pub (good menu and great selection of local brews on tap), or get a good bowl of soup at Tomi’s Home Cooking. But the cabin is fully equipped for cooking, so plan to stay in by the fire. BYO groceries, though, as Port Renfrew has limited services, especially in winter. There’s a general store for emergency dry goods, but that’s about it. 33

PARKSVILLE/QUALICUM On the gentler, eastern side of the island, the storms aren’t as violent, but you can still experience a cozy getaway in an oceanfront suite, overlooking the wide wild beaches and coastal mountains on a rainy west coast weekend. When the tide is out, the expansive beach along Island Highway (19A) in Qualicum Beach is the perfect place to wander on a winter’s day, and you can get a similar experience at the beach in the centre of Parksville. Just next to the latter is Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, a hidden gem with 2 km of serene, sandy beach, meadows, and marshland, beyond a spectacular stand of old-growth Douglas firs and a camping area (open year round). It’s also one of the best spots to see the migration of Brant geese, usually arriving between February and April. SLEEP Tigh-na-Mara Seaside Spa and Resort has condo-style rooms right on the edge of Georgia Strait, or cozy cabins in the woods. Book an ocean-view suite with a kitchen and private balcony in the renovated Gabriola or Ballenas buildings (ask for the second or third floors) for the best stormy vantage point across the resort’s forested bluffs to the sea below. Or book into The Beach Club Resort. These modern ocean-side suites have fully equipped kitchens, king-sized beds, and a view across the boardwalk to a wide beach. COOK/EAT In Parksville-Qualicum, there are plenty of places to enjoy dining out or collecting local ingredients for eating in. Start with the food services at your chosen accommodation—a spa day a Tighna-Mara with a 17-course tapas meal at their Treetops restaurant is an immersive

experience, or have any meal at Cedars, including gourmet pizza and rotisserie chicken to take out, happy hour, and appie deals. At The Beach Club, the Pacific Prime restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, too—a dining room and beachfront patio with firepit tables for chilly days, plus a full in-room dining menu. The Qualicum Beach Café has local, west-coast-inspired dining with views across the big Qualicum Beach. And at new De L’îl Restaurant, they specialize in seasonal, vegetable-forward dishes and European baking. But you can also fill your fridge with regional specialties. Take a trip out to Morningstar Farm and Little Qualicum Cheeseworks for their artisan cheeses (fresh curds every Thursday) and grass-fed whole milk from their own happy herd (fill your own jug from their milk-on-tap dispenser). Head to Arrowsmith Brewery for award-winning craft beer, and buy your loaves of organic sourdough at Wild Culture Bakery in Qualicum Beach (Wednesday to Friday with take-and-bake pizza on Fridays). At the Goats-on-the-Roof country market in Coombs you’ll find local cheese, smoked salmon and sausages, seasonal fresh produce, house-made ice cream, gelato, and doughnuts. In Parksville, Eat Fresh Urban Market is an independent grocer where you can pick up island-raised meats, seafood, and other local food products, including their own delicious breads and pastries. Or stop enroute in Ladysmith at the new Wild Poppy Market (formerly Wild Poppy Bistro), where you’ll find a tasty menu of takeout meals and gluten-free baking from chef Kate Cram (think daily quiche in potato crust, hot pastrami panini on gluten-free seed bread, soups, or vegetarian chili). PHOTOS: ISTOCK.COM / DON WHITE, TEMMUZCAN, EMILYNORTON

34 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Liquid Assets

LARRY ARNOLD

Quality Fizz for the Holidays Some of the best of the bubbles from Champagne and Italy. Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut NV France $74.00 Pierre Péters has been producing estate-grown Champagne in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger since 1919. Farming about 18 hectares (45 acres) of Chardonnay vines, the house produces about 160,000 bottles of bubble a year. The Cuvée de Réserve is 100 percent Chardonnay sourced entirely from Grand Cru vineyards. The blend includes 50 percent reserve wine from a perpetual cuvée of reserve wine dating back to 1988. After 24 months on the lees, it is disgorged and finished with a dosage of 7g/l (the practice of dosage is adding a small amount of wine usually mixed with sugar back to the bottle). Very floral and fruity on the nose with citrus and pear flavours and a subtle minerality through the long fresh finish. Taittinger Brut Réserve NV Champagne France $70.00 Taittinger owns about 750 acres of vineyards scattered across 35 villages. These vineyards supply about half the grapes required for the 5.5 million bottles of bubble produced annually by this revered Grande Marques. The Réserve is about 40 percent Chardonnay, spends three years on the lees, and is finished with a dosage of 9g/l, giving it a gentle creamy texture with citrus and green apple flavours, a subtle minerality, and a squeaky-clean finish. Serge Mathieu Cuvee Prestige Brut NV Champagne France $80.00 The Mathieu family vineyards cover about 11 hectares (28 acres) in the southern department of Aube. About 80 percent of the estate’s production is Pinot Noir with the rest Chardonnay. With an annual production of about 100,000 bottles, they are tough to find but worth the effort! The Prestige Brut is a blend of Pinot Noir (60 percent), the remainder Chardonnay aged on the lees for 48 months and finished with a dosage of 8g/l. Very forward with an exotic nose of pineapple, apricots, and hazelnuts. The palate has concentrated fruit flavours with great persistence and structure. Nicely balanced with a fine mousse and fresh acidity.

Lanson Le Black Label Brut Champagne NV France $66.00 A blend of Pinot Noir (50 percent), Chardonnay (35 percent), and Pinot Meunier (15 percent), blended with reserve wine (35 percent) and aged for four years on the lees with a dosage of 8g/l. Lanson is one of the few Champagne houses to not put its new wines through malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity. The finished product leaves the cellar crisp and clean with light citrus and honey notes, great structure with restrained fruit flavours and a core of zesty acidity. This is a Champagne that will reward patience and with a little more time, the flavour and texture of Le Black Label will be sublime. Berlucchi 61 Franciacorta Brut NV Italy $44.00 Franciacorta is quite possibly the best Italian sparkling wine you have never heard of. Welcome to the club! Midway through the last century a young winemaker named Franco Ziliani convinced his boss, Guido Berlucchi, to let him try making a sparkling wine in the classic French (Champagne) method. Three thousand bottles of the newly minted Franciacorta Metodo Classico entered the market in 1961 and, as they say, the rest is history. Today, Berlucchi sells about five million bottles of Franciacorta a year. A blend of Chardonnay (90 percent) and Pinot Nero (10 percent) aged for two years on the lees, this lovely sparkler is fresh and juicy with a lacy mousse and heady floral, citrus aromas. Very clean and crisp on the palate with subtle peach, citrus, and apple flavours and a long dry finish (dosage 7g/l). Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne NV France $80.00 With 15 hectares of vines located just outside the tiny village of Courteron in the Aube department of Champagne, Fleury became the first Champagne house to be certified Biodynamic by Ecocert in 1992. The Blanc de Noirs (100 percent Pinot Noir) is a blend of three vintages aged for four and a half years on the lees and bottled with a dosage of 4.8 g/l. Very dry indeed, but you would never know it, the fruit is so expressive and intense, reflecting the Fleury family’s obsession with quality. Fruity and powerful with lovely black cherry nuances, richness, and a long dry finish.

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/LOLO2013

Golden Holiday Rice

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING

Jennifer Danter PHO T OGR A PH Y

Jacqueline Downey

36 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

his low-key, quick riff on Persian rice is easy to make and delivers big aromatic flavours. Instead of saffron, this version uses budget-friendly turmeric along with the usual dried fruits. The rice is steamed instead of parboiled, and while it doesn’t get the crispy bottom of a traditional tahdig, you end up with a beautiful pilaf that’s ready in 30 minutes instead of an hour. It pairs well with chicken and turkey, lamb or beef, and the majestic jewel tones brighten up a holiday table or weeknight meal. Of course, any leftovers beg to be topped with a crispy fried egg for breakfast the next morning.

Ingredients Makes 8 servings. 1½ cups basmati rice 3 Tbsp coconut oil ½ tsp cumin seeds ¼ tsp fennel seeds 2 shallots, diced 1½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp kosher salt ⅛ tsp each allspice and cinnamon 2¼ cups water ¼ cup each diced dried apricots and sweetened craisins 2 bay leaves Zest of 1 orange Toppings (optional) chopped cilantro, pistachios, and pomegranate seeds

Method In a bowl, rinse rice until water runs clear. Cover with water and let stand while prepping ingredients. Heat oil in a Dutch oven and set over medium-high heat. When hot, reduce heat to medium. Add cumin and fennel seeds; sizzle and stir for 1 min. Add shallots, turmeric, salt, allspice, and cinnamon. Stir often until shallots are soft and translucent, about 6 min. Drain rice, then stir into shallot mixture until evenly coated. Stir in your 2 1/4 c water, dried fruit, bay leaves, and orange zest. Bring to a boil (increase heat if needed), stirring often. Reduce heat so the mixture is simmering. Cover; cook, without stirring, for 10 min. Turn off heat; let sit for 10-12 minutes. Fluff with a fork and season to taste with more salt, as needed. Remove bay leaves. Mound onto a platter. Top with cilantro, pistachios, and pomegranate seeds. Tip: Like it spicy? Drizzle with sriracha hot sauce or chili oil.

Isabelle Bulota’s

Nutty Chocolate Crinkle Cookies Makes approximately 4 dozen cookies.

Sweet Endings

Two of our favourite contributors share their holiday cookie recipes 8 oz (225 g) chopped dark chocolate 4 oz (125 mL) butter at room temperature 1¼ cups (310 mL) all-purpose flour, sifted ½ cup (125 mL) cocoa powder 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2.5 mL) salt 1 cup (250 mL) packed brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract ⅓ cup (80 mL) milk ¾ cup (180 mL) coarsely chopped roasted walnuts 1 cup (250 mL) icing sugar, or as needed Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler or microwave oven. Allow to cool.

These cookies are perfect for the holiday season. Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, they also make the perfect appreciation gift for a host, a teacher, or any loved one.

Heidi Fink’s

MINT CHOCOLATE BUTTER CRISPS Makes 3 to 4 dozen cookies.

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Prepare 2 non-stick or parchment paper-lined baking sheets. Form the dough into 1-inch (2.5 cm) diameter balls using a tablespoon to portion out. Roll balls in icing sugar to coat generously. Place the balls on baking sheets, spacing them 2-in (5 cm) apart. Bake for 11-13 min. until cookies crack on top. Let cool for 1 min. on the baking sheet before transferring to a wire rack.

In another bowl, beat the brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla for 3 minutes until creamy.

Tip: To save time, prepare the dough balls in advance and freeze them. Let them thaw before dipping them in icing sugar and baking them.

2¼ cups (315 g) all-purpose flour, measured by the dip-and-sweep method if using cups ½ tsp (2.5 mL) fine sea salt 1¼ cups (284 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup (160 g) icing sugar, plus more for pressing the cookies 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla extract 1½ cups (200 g) chopped mint-flavoured dark chocolate (I use Lindt Excellence Mint chocolate bars)

Chop the mint chocolate into small pieces and set aside.

38 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

Cover and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

In a bowl, sift the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 325°F.

These heavenly, melt-in-your-mouth butter cookies with a refreshing hit of mint chocolate are my single “must-make” cookie every holiday season.

Then beat in the chocolate mixture. While continuing to beat, add the sifted ingredients alternately with the milk. Stir in the walnuts.

Whisk together the flour and salt. In a separate bowl, preferably the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter until fluffy. Sift in the icing sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla.

Add the dry ingredients to the creamed mixture, beating well until mixed, stopping the machine and scraping down the sides at least once. Mix in the chopped chocolate. Use a 1-oz scoop to portion the dough. Alternatively, use a tablespoon. Roll the portioned pieces of the dough into round balls. Place on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Using the bottom of a drinking glass that has first been dipped in icing sugar, flatten each dough ball into rounds about 2 in (5 cm) in diameter. Bake for 12 to 16 minutes, until light golden around the edges. Remove to cooling racks to let cool. Cookies keep for up to one week in a container with a tight lid, such as a cookie tin or plastic food safe container.

Heidi Fink is the owner of Chef Heidi Fink Cooking Classes in Victoria, BC .

Gray Jay Deluxe Canadian Whisky is perfect for all occasions. Smooth and unpretentious, it lets you make your own rules. Buy a bottle today, and enjoy every sip, just as you like.