ISSN 1853-9610
MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE
Nยบ61 APR - MAY 2013
the SultanS of Swing Arabia in South America
Mendoza Winery Guide Gay Vendimia w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c . c o m
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Alberto Antonini. Luxurious accommodations, regional gourmet
ARGENTINA:
USA: +1.305.468.4631 MAIL: info@casadeuco.com 3
contents NEWS REPUBLIC
MEETING MENDOZA
The Word ...........................................................................................6 Party Pooper......................................................................................6 Happy Birthday Tapiz........................................................................6 Drink Driving....................................................................................6
Starting New Foundations: Fundacion Servir.................................8 The Road from Damascus..............................................................10 Arabian Bites..................................................................................12 Mini Arabia in Mendoza..................................................................14 Queen of the Desert........................................................................18 Can’t Touch This: Fashion in Argentina.......................................21
wine Arabic Wishlist...............................................................................16 The Shades of Harvest ..................................................................23 Winery Profiles: Lagarde / Nieto Senetiner / Tapiz....................28-30
Out & About Bars & Events.................................................................................24 Dining Out......................................................................................26
MAPS & TIPS Useful Information........................................................................32 Map of Maipu and Chacras de Coria.........................................32 Map of Mendoza City Center......................................................34
1. Malbec tendrils, Dec 2012; 2) Chardonnay Oct 2012; 3) Cabernet Sauvignon, Nov 2012; 4) Malbec Nov 2012; 5) Gotcha! This is actually a fig tree; 6) A tricky one… Pedro Ximenex Jan 2013; 7) Cabernet Sauvignon Nov 2012; 8) Cabernet Sauvignon Feb 2013; 9) Cabernet Sauvignon Nov 2012; 10) Sauvignon Blanc Feb 2013. If you feel inspired want to post your own leaf photos, feel free to post onto our Facebook page!
Answers to leaf challenge page 22
CREDITS Issue April - May 2013 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000 Copies Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: amanda@winerepublic.com Editor: Amanda Barnes Editorial Director: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: publicidad@winerepublic.com, mariana@wine-republic.com Design: Design | Lab · María Laura Gómez · lgomezrus@gmail.com Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributing Authors: Amanda Barnes, Madeline Blasberg, Molly Hetz, Charlie O’Malley, Elizabeth Butler, Alexandra Katz Cover Illustration: Donough O’Malley, www.pencilrobot.net Contributing photographers: Amanda Barnes, Elizabeth Butler, Emily Seitz, Timarie Chan Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic. www.wine-republic.com
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news REPUBLIC
By Charlie O’Malley
Happy Birthday Tapiz
CLUB TAPIZ
The consummate Argentine winery turns ten years old this year. With 250 hectares of planted vineyards in Uco Valley, Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu and Cafayate, a state-of-the-art winery, an olive house and beautiful villa style wine lodge, Tapiz is one of those wineries that seems to have all angles covered. Besides making one of the region´s most genuine Sauvignon Blancs and a signature Syrah, the wines are not over-priced despite earning accolades from the Sultan of Wine Robert Parker and the Crown Prince Stephen Tanzer. If you find yourself at a loss choosing a wine to take home, you cannot go wrong with a bottle of Zolo Reserve Malbec from a slice of vineyard heaven in Uco Valley - Finca San Pablo. Price $100AR
The Word
Even the most ungodly amongst us cannot help feel a surge of pride that the new Pontiff is Porteño. The joy was somewhat tempered for this writer when he discovered (after the fact) that bookmaker Paddypower. com was offering spectacular outside odds on Bishop Bergoglio winning. A windfall jackpot could have easily been attained with a little astute research - after all the cardinal did come second in the last conclave and the actual odds of 33 to 1 have a Christ-like prophecy stamped on them. Instead I’m left to wonder what effect an Argentine will have on the day-to-day routine in the Vatican. Surely mass will be later and longer as Pope Francisco will feel compelled to kiss and hug everybody in St. Peters Basilica before the liturgy and afterwards too. Will the wine be passed around like a mate? Surely there’ll be no more early nights for the bishops as all the Swiss Guards will be drinking Fernet and coke until 5am. With his charm and humility, the new pope has already got off to a great start and as long as he is kept from driving the Pope mobile, his holiness and all Catholics shall be safe.
Party Pooper
After the fun and frolics of the Wine Harvest Festival, the local wine board, the INV, released some sobering news immediately afterwards that was sure to have amplified one or more hangovers. Argentine wine exports have fallen 17.9% in the past year. This comes after a decade of spectacular growth and is mostly down to the fact that Argentine wine is just not the great value it once was. As the wine critic Joe Roberts put it to Winesur.com recently:
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“More and more of the $10 Argentine wines are tasting like they are $10 wines.” Other factors that are not making life easy for the wineries are the dollar restrictions, red tape at customs and a harsh clampdown on imported goods essential to making wine. It is slightly worrying when you see the marketing strategies of wineries shifting towards the home market to compensate. There is only so much slack the local market can take up. A better tactic would be for the new Pope to declare all Eucharistic wine served around the World must be Malbec.
Drink Driving
It is one of the coolest, most glamorous events of the year. Sixty nine sleek, revved up vintage racing cars line up outside the Park Hyatt and roar into the vineyards in a dazzling procession of chrome plated pizzazz. This year, the 11th Rally of the Wineries ran a circuit of 700km over three days, visiting some of Mendoza’s most prestigious wineries. Some of the cars date back to the 1920s and the winner was a 1936 Riley Sprite, driven by Juan Tonconogy of Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Hotel. Despite stiff competition, Casa de Uco are the winners for the third straight year in a row, a feather in the cap for an illustrious private vineyard project that boasts a hotel, spa and golf course in the heart of Valle de Uco. www.casadeuco.com
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Starting New Foundations
Fundacion Servir volunteer, Molly Hetz, talks about giving back to the community and the Mendoza wine community’s support for educational development in the rural town of Ugarteche.
The wine industry in Mendoza is at the core of the community. The wineries not only produce millions of bottles of wine, but also employ hundreds of workers from throughout South America, primarily Bolivia and Peru. These workers traditionally work the grape harvest and then migrate to the next crop, eventually planting their roots in Mendoza. Over time, the rural areas surrounding Mendoza’s vineyards have become home to the families of migrant workers requiring education and health, something which many in the wine industry have noticed. Michelle Schromm, an American working in wine tourism since 2009, has been in contact with many migrant workers living in Ugarteche, a rural community surrounding the winery she currently works at, Pulenta Estate. It has always been a dream of Michelle, to start an organization for the families of migrant workers. In October 2012, with the help of fellow wine lovers and friends Myfanwy Turner and Amanda Barnes and a team of volunteers, the vision became a reality, and Fundacion Servir began its work in Ugarteche. This non-profit organization focuses on offering training and academic courses for free, to people of all ages, with the aim to help rural families, connecting wineries and grape-pickers, empower and educate workers and create a stronger understanding of wine strengthening the wine culture and a more 8
sustainable future. The foundation is made up of a diverse group of volunteers hailing from all over the world, and every corner of the wine industry. A pilot course of teaching English for six weeks in November last year was the natural way to start. From day one the English course was a great success, with 20 students in the adult class on Tuesdays, 20 students for the teenage class on Wednesdays, and a whopping 40 plus kids on Thursdays. The turn out was superb. As the 6-week English programme came to an end and summer break began, the volunteers of Fundacion Servir began to plan for the upcoming year. In March an extended teaching programme was launched with weekly classes in English, Spanish literacy, IT skills, Workers and Women’s Rights, Nutrition and Wine Appreciation along with Saturday workshops in different life skills such as Agronomy, Oenology, Carpentry, How to write a CV and do interviews, Artistic Expression and others. In order to help the charity grow, a fundraising
event was thrown, inviting locals to contribute to the growth of the foundation, and the education of its community. On Wednesday, February 20th, 2013, Fundacion Servir held its first fundraising event at El Mercadito Restaurant on Aristides Villanueva Street, in the heart of downtown Mendoza City. Local wineries donated wine for the event, El Mercadito donated tapas and the attractive location, and over 20 local business donated auction items ranging from a 2-night stay at top hotel Finca Adalgisa, white water rafting with Argentina Rafting, art by Rodrigo Scalzi, a wine tour with Trout & Wine Tours and a Jeroboam of Nicolas Catena Zapata 2008. The event brought together over 120 people from Mendoza to enjoy great wines and rock music by Nick Cushon and ‘the band with no name’ with Marcelo Pelleriti, Guillermo Rigattiere, Emiliano Mario Araniti, Piernino Raguso, Gabriel Ferrero and Marina Chrabolowksy as well as a tango show by Carina Calderon and Marco Del Forno. After a fun evening, the event raised over 20,000 pesos for the charity. Walking through the bustling crowd, Mendoza’s top winemakers, sommeliers, business owners, local guides, and many expats, could be seen raising their classes in solidarity. All present in support of Fundacion Servir and the work it is doing in Ugarteche, committed to the growth of rural communities throughout Mendoza, seeking to educate their children so that any future opportunity is possible. For more information on Fundacion Servir check out its blog: https://fundacionservir.wordpress. com/ or like their Facebook group. Fundacion Servir has started an extended teaching programme this year and is looking for people to volunteer their time, skills, funds or unwanted items. Please contact fundacionser vir.mdza@ gmail.com if you believe you can help in any way.
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The Road from Damascus by Charlie O’Malley Illustrations by Donough O’Malley · www.pencilrobot.net
In 1974 Argentina had six governors of six western provinces who could boast Arab backgrounds. Carlos Menem of La Rioja is the most famous of these but it is also worth noting that Elias Adre of San Luis, Vicente Saadi of Catamarca, Amado Juri of Tucuman, Felipe Sapag of Neuquen and Carlos Juarez of Santiago del Estero were all successful politicians who originally harked from the old Ottoman Empire backwaters we now call Lebanon and Syria. Is it any coincidence that they chose the dry, arid interior of Argentina to peg their New World tents in? The dusty provinces of the Cuyo region must have reminded them of their homelands. Indeed all a movie location scout has to do is plant a camel amongst the sandy outcrops of the Route 40 and you’d be easily persuaded it truly is the road to Damascus. “Why is the skyline of Buenos Aires not punctuated with the occasional minaret?” I discovered this little piece of political trivia when looking into Arab immigration in Argentina. When we imagine the hordes of hopeful adventurers stepping off the gangplanks in Buenos Aires port at the beginning of the 20th century, it is accepted wisdom that they all hailed from Europe, particularly the impoverished Mediterranean rim. But amongst the Italian stonemasons, French cooperers and Spanish tailors, was a significant trickle of dark haired economic pilgrims with names such as Nasrallah and Zgraib, who knew a thing or two about 10
textiles, trading and bartering. Today 3.5 million Argentines claim Middle Eastern ancestry. That is almost a whopping 10% of the population. This prompts the question where are they? Sure you´ll find traces in common names such as Elias, Alish and Omar, but where are the trademark characteristics we associate with the Arab
world? Why is the skyline of Buenos Aires not punctuated with the occasional minaret and the late revelers in Palermo buzzed to prayer at 4am by the muezzin? How have the Arab immigrants assimilated so well here (and indeed prospered commercially and politically) compared to the social problems experienced in Northern Europe? The answer
Illustrations by Donough O’Malley www.pencilrobot.net
is quite simple. Not all Arabs are Muslims (indeed it is easy to forget that there are Arab Jews) and the vast majority that came to Argentina were Arab Christians, primarily Lebanese Maronites and Syrians. These were put upon, beleaguered communities in the early 20th Century Middle East - what was then the Ottoman Empire. “The richest man in the World was once call Salim” Persecuted by the Turks, forced into military service and besieged by the World War I Allies, they fled to the Americas. The Pampas must have seemed like the land of milk and honey compared to the famine and war stricken land they left behind. Hardworking and honest with a flair for enterprise, the new immigrants prospered and streets like
Reconquista in Buenos Aires and La Alameda in Mendoza became famous for their lines of Arab merchants selling everything from household goods to garments. Such success was repeated all over South America. The richest man in the World, the Mexican Carlos Slim, dropped a vowel from his surname and was once call Salim. We all know Shakira´s talent for hip grinding was not taught and must be genetic and who thinks Salma Hayek has an old Spanish Conquistador´s name. There are more Christian Palestines in Chile than there are in the West Bank - they even have their own football team, and that country’s textile and banking industries are largely owned by a dynasty called Yarur. Brazil boasts a cool 15 million Arab flavored citizens and one of the country’s most successful fast food chains is called Habib and dishes out shawarmas
and falafels from 300 branches. At least four South American countries have had Arab presidents. In Argentina Los Turcos (such was the misnomer put on them by the locals) stopped coming in the 1950s but the thousands that traveled beforehand have left their indelible mark on Argentine culture. Their subtle influence can be seen in this country’s food, music and culture. Recently there has been a spike in Syrian visitors with a 500% rise in applications for residency permits. This is due to the civil war and the sad events in cities such as Aleppo and Homms. The Syrian refugee crisis is spilling a little into Argentina. The new numbers will never match the original wave of immigrants but those that do come to this strange land seeking out distant cousins will be pleasantly surprised. It is not so strange nor distant. 11
Arabian Bites Elizabeth Butler looks at the Arabic influence on Argentine cuisine.
Steak and Wine. That’s your answer, right? As in, if asked “What is Argentine cuisine?” you would automatically give those two words as your answer. 9 out of 10 people would say the same. The ranches, the vineyards, the landscapes of Argentina are so strewn with cattle and grapes that you can’t avoid thinking that’s all Argentines serve and eat. But let’s step back for a second. With the Old World melting pot that created the cultural base for most of the Americas, Argentina has a much richer culinary history and presence than we often give it credit for. Take the Spaniards, for example, whose culture was dramatically changed after the Moorish invasion in the year 711. The Moors’ conquest in Spain not only evolved the way Spaniards lived their life, but reshaped the flavours and identity of their cuisine. As they crossed the pond to Argentina in 16th century, they brought the Arab influence of the Moors with them and their new European/Arabian menu became integrated into their lifestyle of the new frontier. Because of it, we find hints of Arab flair in many areas of Argentine cuisine today.
The Beloved Empanada
I can see you scratching your head. Where the heck can you find ‘Arabian flair’ in the land of rugged gauchos? Well, I’ll tell you that one of the most easily recognized Arab inspired foods in Argentina is the beloved empanada. If Steak & Wine are the King and Queen of Argentine cuisine, the Empanada is their dashing and adored Prince that the country can’t get enough of. Empanadas (from the Spanish verb empanar - to cover or wrap in bread) are convenient hand-held pastries filled with anything from meat to cheese to veggies to even fruit. The most traditional filling is made with ground beef seasoned with sautéed onions, spices including cumin and paprika, hard boiled
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egg, olives and even raisins, depending on what region of Argentina your empanada comes from. Said to have become popular amongst the fisherman on the docks of Galicia in northern Spain after the Moorish invasion, the portable, satiating, and affordable characteristics of the empanada remain the reasons why it has flourished in Argentina as well.
Olive Oil - the Coveted Liquid Gold
Another gift the Spaniards brought with them to Argentine soils was the olive tree. Although there had always been a presence of olive oil production in Spain, it increased significantly under the Moorish reign. With their new infatuation with olive oil, the Spaniards could not start a new life without their coveted liquid gold and brought the olive with them to Argentina. It took so well to the soil and the taste of the public here, that olives and olive oil evolved to be two of the largest and most important goods produced in Argentina. Both are found within innumerable recipes and on almost every table you eat at throughout the country.
Niños Envueltos
Illustrations by Donough O’Malley www.pencilrobot.net
The Appetizing Escabeche
Pickling (vinegar) was also a very important form of food preservation for the Arabs, and is something they continued to practice upon their arrival in Spain. Escabeche was one of the main dishes that originated from this tradition, which is a dish of cooked fish that is marinated in a vinegar or citrus mixture, often overnight, for a tender and flavourful end result. Escabeche became a very popular cooking technique in Argentina, and can now be found as a preparation for fish, meat, and vegetables alike, often served with bread or crackers as an appetizer or side dish.
‘A’ for Arab
Even for you non-culinary history buffs out there, whose palates may not be keen enough to detect Arabian flavours in Argentine cuisine, the names of certain foods or dishes can give you a linguistic hint of their origins as well. Foods such as albóndigas (meatballs), arroz (rice), aceituna (olive), aceite de oliva (olive oil), and almendras (almonds), all have Arab origins. All sharing the first letter ‘a’, this is a common marker of an Arab-introduced food to Spanish, and later Argentine, cuisine. So where you can find these Arabian inspired treats here in Mendoza? Cocina Poblana on Calle Aristides offers up plate after plate of exotic flavour that highlights the beauty of Arab and Argentine hybrid cuisine. You can also get a plate of stuffed vine leaves, or ‘ninos envueltos’ (wrapped children) as they are known here. For an even more authentic Arabian menu, head to Bahiya Cocina Arabe in Guaymallen; the Safihas (Arab empanadas) are a must for those searching for starting point of the empanada. On such nights you can relax and leave your steak knife at home.
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Mini Arabia in Mendoza Madeline Blasberg hunts around Mendoza for some true Arab digs.
Though you may have to dig a little, amidst the gaucho folklore and the thick smoke of a summer asado, you’ll find wisps of a different culture, imported from a different side of the world. Though it circulates under the radar, Argentina is home to a large Arab community. It is this thriving community that is responsible for the growing popularity of hookah smoking, belly dancing and a palate full of new, vibrant flavors. Walking through the bustling streets of downtown Mendoza City you’re likely to pass a shop, from time to time, that stands out from the rest. From hookah bars to gift shops, you’ll find everything you need to partake in the Arab culture - or at least the parts of it that comfortably translate to the Argentina way of life. Though it may seem like a stretch, the parallels between the two cultures are many and the bridge is not hard to cross.
Where to Shake Your Belly
Argentines are entranced by Arabic Dance - the Far East counterpart to the Argentine cueca. Although the mid-riff bearing costumes might raise some abuela’s eyebrows, classes for Arabic dance are pretty full. La Tienda Arabe y Academia de Danzas Arabes located at Avenida Las Heras 641 is a good place to get your feet wet. Half dance studio, half belly-dancer boutique, this is your one-stop Arab-outfitter. Find a hookah and some shisha, buy a traditional Arab board game, dress yourself in belly dancer garb complete with scandalous bustier or a wrap skirt bejeweled in gold coins. Classes are available every day of the week, and range from Bollywood to flamenco and Dabke to belly dancing for beginners (many are
exclusively for women). For something more long-term Academia de Danzas Arabes Suhila on Av. Vicente Zapata 348 and is run by the Lebanese Society of Mendoza and all ages and both genders are welcome, and the whole dance company does an annual show at the end of the year.
Do Some Souk Searching
Or, if you’re more interested in participating off the stage, India is an International gift shop located at Catamarca 52, near the corner of Catamarca and Avenida San Martin. Though the name doesn’t point to Arab influence, the trinkets that line the shelves and pack the windowsills certainly do. In the clutter and beside the busts of Buddha, you’ll find a variety of hookah pipes (called narguile in Spanish), one of the largest selections of shisha (flavored tobacco that is smoked and savored), Egyptian tarot cards and a variety of other goods. Tucked into a hole-in-the-wall corner of la Galleria Tonsa, a shopping mall on Avenida San Martin, you’ll find Planeta Arabe. Planeta Arabe both looks and feels like a closet, full to the brim with Arabicinspired fashions, belly dancing costumes and a variety of cultural artifacts, including the ever-present hookah and shisha selection.
A Tasting Tour
To snack on Arabic delights try Mustafá - a restaurant and hookah bar located in Godoy Cruz neighborhood, on Avenida San Martin Sur. You’ll find a variety of delicious Arab cuisine as well as a more traditional argentine menu. Barguile, Beltrán 2005 in Godoy Cruz, as well as Cocina Poblana, Aristides Villanueva 217, are also fantastic options for enjoying delicious Arab cuisine and both offer the option to buy a few rounds at a hookah pipe set up directly at your table.
Paseo La Alameda By Amanda Barnes One of Mendoza’s most bohemian neighbourhoods is a hub of Arab activity in the city. The seven or so blocks of Paseo La Alameda (the northern end of San Martin Street) received an influx of Arabic immigrants at the beginning of the 20th century, along with the ubiquitous Italian and Spanish immigrants and a handful of Jewish immigrants. The area was such a mix of people and culture that it has a nickname of ‘Babel’. The Arabic influence is not only visible through the rug shops dotted along the street and the odd bakery selling baklava, but this is also home to Mendoza’s ‘Centro Islamico Arabe’ (Islamic Arabic Centre). Founded in 1926 it was one of the first Islamic Arabic institutions of its type in Latin America and still serves the 600 Muslim families in the area in their religious, cultural and linguistic needs. As well as being a hotspot for live music of all sorts (tango, flamenco, rock, jazz) Alameda also hosts Mendoza’s own Arabic Orchestra, Al Diab, on a regular basis in some of the many live music venues on Alameda street. 14
Illustrations by Donough O’Malley · www.pencilrobot.net
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arabic wishlist
BY AMANDA BARNES
Although Iran was probably the first place to cultivate and make wine, Arabic food can be tricky to pair. After some serious research and a bit of fun tasting, here are my top picks for wines from Mendoza to pair with classic Arabic dishes (or as close as you can get with Argentine ingredients). Get a party together and try out these unusual pairings yourself. Hummus: Recuerdo (Vines of Mendoza), Malbec The snack staple. Garlic, olive oil, chick peas and tahini (if you can get it) with a touch of paprika. A pairing nightmare. But Recuerdo’s dark fruit Malbec is fresh and juicy with enough of a backbone to bring fruit through to the otherside without killing the creamy hummus. A really interesting pairing! Baba Ganoush: Alpamanta, Syrah It’s a really fun word to say but again, this is a tricky one to pair. Smoky aubergine/eggplant requires a powerful wine to stand up to it but not overpower it. The funky, meaty smoke of Alpamanta’s organic and biodynamic Syrah is a good contender for pairing with baba G. Tabbouleh: Gimenez Riili, MALBEC rosé A dry, aromatic and herbal blend of bulgar wheat, parsley, mint, spices and vine tomatoes, this savory salad is an eruption of flavours with Gimenez Riili rosé. The dry rosé is filled with strawberry, cherry and floral notes which made for a real taste of Summer when combined with fresh tabbouleh. Arabic meat empanadas: Sol fa Sol (Marcelo Pelleriti Wines), Torrontes Much lighter in style than Argentine empanadas, the cumin and lemon with fresh tomatoes make for a more surprising pair - Torrontes. Sol Fa Sol Torrontes has an unctuous mouthfeel that holds its own weight alongside the meat but the citrus and spice flavours make for an outstanding combination with these spiced empanadas. It makes alot of sense why in Salta they drink Torrontes with their spicier meat empanadas. Kibbeh: Bodega Caelum, Cabernet Sauvignon Smoky grilled minced meat with different spices and a centre of spiced red onion - it needs a big juicy wine to contend. We liked boutique winery Caelum’s Cabernet Sauvignon which isn’t too strong on the tannins but the structure pairs with the grilled flavours and the red fruit carries through to the end. Baklava: Bodega Septima, Late Harvest Gewurstraminer Oooo, the apple of every Arabian eye. Nutty, honey, crumbly pastry, delicious. But the key is not to make it too sweet as a wine should be sweeter than the food. Septima’s late harvest Gewurstraminer is a perfect option - white roses, honey, almond notes and fresh mint with a long finish make this a true Turkish delight. For more wine recommendations visit www.wine-republic.com
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F O N E E QU T R E S E D THE Amanda Barnes checks out the vivacious side of the Harvest Festival - the Gay Vendimia Tiaras, tears, fake breasts and lots of hairspray. Sounds like a beauty contest anywhere in the world, doesn’t it? Let me throw you a curveball - the Queen was born with a penis. Yes, we are still in Mendoza. No, this isn’t the Pink Pages. I am talking about a wildly alternative Wine Harvest festival in what many people mistakenly believe is a dry, buttoned-down conservative city. Mendoza has a rainbow coalition of extroverts having fun beneath the radar and the Vendimia Para Todos (Harvest Festival for Everyone) is their annual glamfest where they loudly come out of the woodwork in platforms and gold lamé. Now in its 18th year, Gay Vendimia was created to offer an alternative celebration to Mendoza’s Harvest Festival and year-on-year it has gained more acceptance and recognition - formally recognised as a tourist attraction by the province a few years back. Although it might seem a bit un-PC to call a gay festival a tourist attraction, it’s not hard to see why: spectacular dancing, colourful costumes, lots of musical theatre, gorgeous men all around you and a massive after party with outrageous dancing. In my book it definitely beats sitting outside in a concrete amphitheater for six hours with no bar in sight. One of the highlights of Gay Vendimia is the Beauty Queen Contest. The official Vendimia Show is a beauty contest too but it is no way as direct and sassy as Vendimia Para Todos. A Short Shorts catwalk section is obligatory and although the Queens were all pretty corking, you get the impression that ass implants 18
aren’t quite as well practiced as boob jobs in Argentina. The one massive advantage about being a transvestite vogueing down the catwalk is the enviable absence of cellulite. Being born a man definitely pays off for the stellar leg contest. The King’s Beauty Parade made most of the girls and guys in the audience swoon as Mendoza’s most beautiful gay men paraded around stage in see-through shirts and those unavoidable tight shorts. All wrapped up with a tear filled coronation ceremony at the end and so much innuendo it would make Oscar Wilde blush. Simply great fun. Mendoza has a vibrant alternative nightlife with a growing legion of fans - both straight and gay. We all know that straight women like to head to gay clubs to avoid the onslaught of straight Latinos in heat and have a good dance with their girlfriends, but straight men are increasingly going too. “I used to take all my dates to a gay club in Mendoza,” a straight expat man tells me (who probably should remain anonymous). “It’s a really fun night!” And no other men hit on your lady, is the part he left out. “In fact, I used to go with my straight male friend too,” he adds. “In the clubs you could never get a drink, in gay bars the service is great.” Of course, you get a bit of entertainment with your Fernet and Coke too. Whether it is the slightly cheeky banana eating competitions held at La Reserva, or the
hard-core porn on the TV at the bar Estacion Miro, it certainly spices up a Tuesday night beer. And at the end of the day it is all about fun. No matter what you do or how you choose to enjoy yourself that night, within the walls of a gay club or Vendimia Para Todos you are accepted for who you are. Plus, you don’t have to be embarrassed about loving Prince.
A guide to the alternative side of Mendoza: La Reserva: A small but
legendary city centre nightclub. Here you’ll find standup comedy, tranny shows and audience participation games which usually involve performing an easily misconstrued action on stage. The night ends with a sweltering dance floor mob heaving to electric beats. Rivadavia 32, City Centre.
Estacion Miro: A torrid disco pub in
Dorrego with scantily-clad pole dancers and some dark rooms out the back you do not want to wander into unintentionally. If men in togas and dancing dwarves are your thing, this is the place. Just don’t bring your mother-in-law. Ejercito de los Andes 656, Dorrego.
Queen:
A popular gay night club in Guaymallen with cheeky entertainers, arm pumping music and a sea of silicone. 25 de Mayo 318, Guaymallen.
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Can’t Touch This Fashion Writer Alexandra Katz wonders how MC Hammer influenced the local fashion scene
Perhaps slinky dresses and tango shoes are the first picture of cultural fashion in Argentina that comes to mind. Well next time you throw on those knee-high flat leather boots, skinnies, a poncho that doubles as a coat and that chic brimmed hat, you’ll get the urge to jump on a horse and head to the Pampas where the gauchos of Argentina reside. Often compared to the North American cowboy, gauchos tend to cattle on horseback in the flat grasslands and cattle ranches of Northern Argentina. Seen as a symbol of the national identity of Argentina, the gaucho and his lifestyle has become legendary. Now more than ever, the cultural influence of the rugged men who skillfully dominated the plains can be seen draped on the shoulders of people all over the world. Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” Hot days on the sun-baked pampas and endless hours in the saddle made for a very particular form of dress. Traditionally made of wool, the poncho is a gaucho essential. Formed from a large piece of knitted fabric with an opening for the head, the shape is unmistakable. Thanks to the distinctive form, the poncho has become the must-have accessory for the contemporary woman in Argentina, and indeed in most of the Americas. Another fundamental part of gaucho wear has created a fad that has taken Argentina and the world by storm. Hopping on and off a six-foot stallion for seemingly endless hours requires comfortable footwear and riding boots were the obvious choice. Commonly made of cow’s hide, the gaucho pulled the material over his foot and calf so it would dry in the form of a boot. Short, tall, heeled or flat the boot craze is everywhere. Whether paired with a leather jacket in winter or with shorts in summer, you can always catch a girl rocking a pair of boots. Made popular on the runways of New York, Milan and Paris, the brimmed hat is the upcoming season’s ultra modern version of the gaucho classic. Called a chambergo, the hat was a necessity in order to survive the blistering temperatures on the shade less savannas. Although no longer a must, the chambergo is a stylish alternative to help play up your look. While the gaucho trend has added fabulous additions to the world of fashion, not all that you see on the streets in Mendoza is oh so peachy.
One debatable fad comes from a time when Madonna was queen, the bigger the hair the better and shoulder pads were sewn into everything. Mini skirts, cropped tops, loud prints and bright colors are everywhere. Slouchy off the shoulder tops paired with leggings and Converse chuck taylors, no you aren’t stuck in a dream about 1980’s, you are probably just lounging in Plaza Independencia. Another unnecessary evil in Mendoza fashion can be stated in three words, MC Hammer pants. Otherwise known as harem pants, they sit at the waist and are loose to the ankle. No matter which of your favorite models puts these on, they still will look hideous. Even worse, they come in prints, all kinds of prints in every color. You can’t walk two blocks without seeing them. All being said, there are some great places to do a spot of shopping in Mendoza:
Cloter:
Carrying brightly coloured blazers, chic tops for a night out and great jeans for a casual Sunday, Cloter is a fashion forward boutique with accessories for every outfit. Aristides Villanueva 129
Kosiuko: Even though edgy yet glam Kosiuko is a chain store
found all over Argentina, when you need something rocker fabulous with a sophisticated and trendy feel, there is bound to be a store wherever you are. Avenida Espejo 77 - Local A 25
Fiume:
Sheer tops, plenty of little black dresses, trousers and everything in between, Fiume is the place to go for classic shapes and colours but, with a trendy twist, party wear. Montevideo 105 and Mendoza Plaza Shopping.
Stone:
With sleek graphic print tees, killer leather jackets and adorable chambray shirts, this conglomerate gives off laid-back and fun vibes. Avenida San Martin 1122
Codigo X:
No matter what shape you are, curvy or skinny or whatever, Codigo X has a pair of denim, in all the latest washes and styles, to flatter your body type. Alvear 62, 5570 General San Martin 21
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The shades of Harvest Photos by Elizabeth Butler · www.withtwoforks.com
Over the Summer months there is an exciting metamorphosis happening in the vineyards as the vines get ready to produce their generous bounty of grapes. You’ve probably seen a few hundred photos of colourful grapes but we take a look at one of the protagonists of the vine that is often overlooked, the humble leaf.
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Elizabeth Butler has snapped away at these extraordinary subjects over the Summer 2012/2013 in Mendoza and we invite you to take a look and play a little guessing game: gues teh variety and the time of year it was taken. When you think you’ve got them nailed, the results are on the Contents page.
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bars & events inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.www.believeirishpub.com.ar
The Vines of Mendoza
As the first and only true tasting room in South America, The Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium boutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes with one of their tasting flights or choose a glass from the impressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours makes for a truly enjoyable afternoon. Belgrano 1194, Tel. 261 4381031. Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com
cachitas
A laid back American style burger bar with a good playlist and a patio outside, Cachitas boasts one of the best barmen in the city. Christian from Germany has travelled the globe perfecting the art of cocteleria and here you can sample some fab drinks that will get your night off to a good start. Sarmiento 784. Mon - Sat, 6pm till late.
Events Vendimia de Polo 2013: 6 - 7 April: A two day
free polo event in Club de Campo just outside the city centre. As well as some top notch polo playing you can enjoy music by a live DJ, taste wines from different local wineries and nibble on some gourmet food. A weekend of sunshine, horses and vino of course! www.winespolo.com
Wine Rock Tour: 3 - 5 May: In its third year, this is the
ultimate festival for wine and rock lovers! Spearheaded by winemaker and musician Marcelo Pelleriti get your tickets now for seriously good wine and some rocking beats. Friday Monteviejo winery hosts a special lunch, sculpture and Reencarnaciones Experience, wine tasting, concert and dinner. Saturday is the main day with the rock concerts kicking off at 3.30pm and a lunch and wine tour before, and Sunday if you are still going you can join the crew for horseriding and lunch at Manzano Historico. For tickets and more info: pmolinengo@clos7.com. ar - 02622 154 03692
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dining out ITUZAINGO
mendoza city Anna Bistro
For a romantic evening outdoors Anna Bistro is unsurpassable. Carved wood tables adorned with candles are nestled between exotic flowering plants and hanging vines. Couple this with soft lighting and tranquil jazz, and any mundane evening is transformed into a memorable event. Gazing at their menu of delectable dishes, from ceviche and cesto de portobello (pastry piled with mushrooms and walnuts), to melt-in-your-mouth salmon al limon and trout, produces an unavoidable bout of indecisiveness. The Anna Bistro staff swear by the T-Bone steak and local Malbec combo. End the feast with a Blackberry Cheesecake and glass of bubbly on the sunken sofas for a quick trip to nirvana. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 12pm - 1am. Avg. meal cost: $150 pesos.
FLORENTINO
For an intimate, unusual and memorable evening - Ituzaingo is one of the city’s best kept secrets. A ‘closed door’ restaurant located in a historic house in the bohemian quarter, Ituzaingo has been receiving rave reviews from locals, expats and travellers alike who relish in the warm atmosphere, good company, unique art, and good food all accompanied by an eclectic music mix. The maestro in question is Gonzalo Cuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45 people in his attractive loft conversion house or leafy summer garden, and his chef Francisco can delight guests with an eight course menu of Argentine flavours catered to an international palate, or simply relax with a glass of wine. This is a real place to meet the wines, food, art, music and hospitality of Argentina. 8 course menu of argentine cuisine with 3 glasses of wine and a welcome drink, or you can order sharing plates and wine by the glass. For those who like to learn more about regional culture and gastronomy Ituzaingo has the option of an Argentinean Cooking Class which is a lot of fun and educational. Prices between 250 and 325 pesos per person (wines included). Open Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat from 8.30pm. Reservations essential. Ituzaingo Resto, tel (261) 15 666 5778, cocina@ituzaingoresto. com.ar
Grill Q
Florentino
Florentino is a real delight. An intimate, artistic bistro tucked into a converted house by Plaza Italia provides the perfect nook to try some of Mendocino chef Sebastian Flores’ salubrious and scrumptious dishes. We recommend the indulgent mushrooms with cheese (proper parmesan), thyme and garlic croutons, or the warm salad of squid, chorizo and watercress. There is a nice variety of mains - and it hasn’t taken long for their succulent chivito (baby goat) to become the thing of Mendoza legends: moist, tender and lean on a bed of creamy polenta and roasted garlic. Desserts are just as irresistible as is the extensive Argentine wine list. Florentino has made a very promising start and its beautiful simplicity and good taste is a real charm. Montevideo 675. Tel: (261) 464 9077. Mon - Sat, 12.30pm - 12am (serves early dinner also). Avg meal AR$135 (without wine) 26
Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q serves up traditional regional cuisine at a five star level. Sit back in the chic parilla style restaurant amongst the cowhides and local artwork, pick from one of the many Mendocinean wines, make your order and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. They are famous for their grilled meats and gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty Argentine classics such as ‘locro’ - a stew which hails back to the early independence days. Save room for the stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a more gourmet evening menu and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in town. With a gorgeous buffet spread of starters like thai squid salad, chicken ceasar with macadamia nuts and mezze style tapas, you’ll need to bring your stretchy waistbands to fit in the hearty and flavourful main options and the sumptuous dessert buffet on top. Put aside an hour or two for this tempting lunch. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q $200 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu $250 with starter buffet, main course, dessert buffet and glass of wine.
Patrona
This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona attracts a crowd full of locals every night of the week who come for the honest, traditional Argentine food and friendly and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes like the hearty empanadas and sizzling asado are worthy and popular fare but the real star here is Patrona’s warm, open sandwiches We recommend the artichoke hearts and goats cheese; roasted vegetables with white wine and honey; or the more traditional pick of rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent wine list and some satisfying desserts complete the gastronomy experience but the key to Patrona is the cosy way that they really make you feel at home. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal cost: $100/(including starter, main dish, dessert+a glass of wine)
el mercadito
With an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace outside, this is the perfect spot for Summer. Opened recently by three friends, El Mercadito is offering something a little bit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive waiting staff, this is quickly becoming a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to eat or evening cocktails. Opening in the morning for healthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. Chow down to big healthy salads like the ‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns, fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck into one of their big toasted sandwiches like smoked salmon and cream cheese, or jamon crudo and arugula served with chunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make sure to try out one of their yummy strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $90.
Ceibo
Offering one of the most complete cooking and cultural experiences in Mendoza, this intimate restaurant serves classic Argentine countryside cuisine with a contemporary twist as well as its daily cooking classes. Chef Mauricio and Sommelier Eugenia welcome you into their converted family home and offer a 3 to 4 hour cooking class whereby you learn the culture of ‘cocina de campo’ as well as trying your hand at traditional cooking techniques like cooking in a mud oven, ‘al disco’ and learning the art of the
perfect asado as well as making empanadas, choripan, homemade bread and chimichurri sauce. Five courses of traditional cuisine are paired with boutique Argentine wines and you finish off making fresh herb cocktails from the patio garden and can try rolling Argentine tobacco. A fun, cultural and culinary experience to enrich your understanding of Argentina and its cuisine. The restaurant is also open every evening (except Sundays) and serve classic Argentine dishes like a variety of empanadas and roasted meats along with signature dishes from Mauricio and boast a fantastic wine list and warm environment. Ceibo, 25 de Mayo 871 (in front of Plaza Italia), (261) 420 2992. Avg. meal price $130, cooking class from $100US.
CEIBO
LA MARCHIGIANA
SIETE FUEGOS AT THE VINES
As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family restaurant started off with only six hearty Italian dishes but has grown into a popular local fixture which is always busy despite its curious lack of ambience. The pasta is the best thing here, maintaining original recipes from over 60 years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg. meal price: $ 120
outside city center Terruño-Club TAPIZ
Tucked away among the sprawling Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef compiles a tantalising menu that includes top notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. If you like what you see and taste, book a room in one of their seven Renaissance-style villas. Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. AR$ 190. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg. meal cost: $180 pesos.
Siete Fuegos at The Vines of Mendoza
First there was Francis Mallman’s 1884 restaurant, now the celebrity chef has a new restaurant in town. Or rather, out of town. Set in the stunning vineyards of The Vines of Mendoza, Siete Fuegos is sure to be one of the hottest tickets in Mendoza for years to come. A leisurely lunch with not one, but seven asados. Cooking with seven different fire techniques (including burying an entire goat in the sand) this whirlwind of Argentine cuisine includes salt crusted cod, roasted lamb and ginormous dulce de leche pancakes, all accompanied by fantastic Uco Valley wines. The ultimate outdoor Argentina lunch experience. $500AR per person. www.sietefuegosasado.com
Breakfast in Focus: Brillat Savarin Sometimes all you want is a seriously indulgent breakfast, and this French patisserie is the place to go. With kitsch design and macaroons of every different color and flavor under the rainbow (including cassis and malbec), this is going to delight your sweet tooth. If you want to linger over their handmade delicacies then buy what you want from Brillat and stroll over to Anna Bistro next door where they will deliver your breakfast so you can enjoy it with fresh orange juice, coffee or even a glass of bubbles! Brillat Savarin Juan B Justo 135. Open everyday, all day.
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the winery guide LUJAN DE CUYO Terrazas de los Andes The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with wellappointed tasting room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo.www. terrazasdelosandes.com
Winery in Focus: CLUB tapiz
Ruca Malen Excellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. (0261) 4138909 .R.N.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com Chandon The original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar Dominio del Plata Argentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. Fav. Wine: Ben Marco. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata. com.ar
Tapiz is the only winery in Mendoza that offers an invigorating horse and carriage ride through the vineyard, before entering the winery to try excellent Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec from the tank and barrel. With its 5-star wine lodge, upscale restaurant Terruño and a beautiful olive house, this Argentine owned operation offers the complete wine luxury experience. Head winemaker Fabian Valenzuela deserves credit for making consistently exceptional wines with each varietal faithfully true to form. The Syrah Reserva is a regular favorite of Wine Republic. The big news is the winery has just signed up famed Frenchman Jeane Claude Berrouet of Chateau Petrus as consultant. Order your bottles now.
Luigi Bosca Old, family owned operation with lots of heritage, handsome cellars and a tasting room.(0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar Lagarde Owner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the hand-crafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines.(0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar Renacer This Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar
Tapiz Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour including barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo,Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com
Kaiken This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious Chilean winery Montes. Big and powerful wines, destined for fame. (0261) 524 3160. Roque Saenz Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. www.kaikenwines.com
Norton Old-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel. Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar
Catena Zapata Showcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. catenawines.com
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Melipal Great Malbec and gourmet lunches make Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) 524 8040.R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar Decero Attractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com Clos de Chacras Charming boutique operation with nice history. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. closdechacras.com.ar Carmelo Patti Mendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Fav. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614, Luján de Cuyo. Vistalba Tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Fab restaurant. Fav Wine: Petit Verdot. (0261) 498 9400. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www. carlospulentawines.com Belasco de Baquedano Gleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. belascomalbec.com Piattelli A lovely family owned winery done in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on a deck beside a pond. Fav. Wine: Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123. Calle Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www. piattellivineyards.com Achaval Ferrer Modern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261) 488 1131. Calle Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www. achaval-ferrer.com
REFERENCES Restaurant Lodging Driving time from Mendoza City Art Gallery
Alta Vista Masterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www. altavistawines.com
LOCATIONS REFERENCES Luján de Cuyo
San Martín
Maipú
Valle de Uco
Mendoza City
Winery in Focus: nieto senetiner
Mendel An old style winery ran by one of Argentina’s most famous winemaker dynasties the De La Motta family. (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar Bonfanti A lovely winery in a pastoral setting. Up close and personal tours with the owners themselves and a tasting room set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595. Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo. Benegas Lynch Rich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega with lots of character. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com Dolium A completely underground winery with innovative design and top notch Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190.R.P.15, Km 30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com Caelum Modern, medium size winery on the main road to Chile just before the mountains and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado. (0261) 156 439564.R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Pulenta Estate Cool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.pulentaestate.com Viña Cobos American winemaker Paul Hobbs was one of the first to recognise the possibilities of Malbec and his Bramare label is possibly one of the best examples of this varietal. (0261) 479 0130.R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www. vinacobos.com Dante Robino Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style
Navarro Correas The closest winery to Mendoza city, easily accessible Navarro Correas is a modern winery with great sparkling wines and fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com Nieto Senetiner Located in a beautiful old winery in Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888 and makes a great range of wines and sparkling wines and offers horseback riding in the vineyards and asado style lunches. (261) 498 0315, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar
This beautiful Spanish hacienda style winery is homely, warm and has plenty of good taste. Attractive lawns with handsome trees meet vineyards that surround the old family house and winery. The winery itself still has many features from the original 1905 building with a cane roof and large concrete tanks in the original square shape as well as more modern round ones. An atmospheric red painted barrel room leads you out to the garden and vineyards and onto the old family house where the friendly tour guide leads you through a tasting of some of their wines. Book yourself a table in for lunch where you can enjoy hearty Argentine cuisine like freshly baked empanadas, steak wrapped in bacon with Malbec reduction and finish off with their fab sparkling wine with a chocolate mousse!
winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellent view of mountains and vines. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www. bodegadanterobino.com Septima A beautifully designed winery with clear views of the mountains and a large terrace used for sunset wine events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Owned by the Spanish experts in sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make fab sparkling wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www. bodegaseptima.com
VALLE DE UCO O. Fournier Most architecturally innovative winery with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in the modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com Altus A red barn-like winery which faces a lovely adobe-style restaurant doing excellent lunches. (02622) 155 080261. Las Vencedoras, Tupungato.www.altusdetupungato.com.ar Salentein Designed like a temple to wine, this ultraconcept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com Finca La Celia One of the valley’s oldest conduct excellent tours (02622) 451 010. Av. de s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San fincalacelia.com.ar
wineries. They and tastings. Circunvalacion Carlos. www.
La Azul Simple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and a small traditional restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www. bodegalaazul.com
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the winery guide Winery in Focus: lagarde
Atamisque This Uco winery has some great white wines, a unique stony roof and they breed their own trout which is served in the charming restaurant. (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.com
MAIPU Trapiche Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial, and has the old train tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www. trapiche.com.ar
This historical winery is well known throughout South America for housing the continent’s oldest white wine: a 1942 Semillon. The barrel of wine was lost within the cellar many moons ago and since its re-discovery it has made the old winery famous. Dating back to 1897, Lagarde is set 20 or so minutes away from the city (accessible by bus) in Lujan de Cuyo. The busy road is populated by houses and other wineries, but once you step beyond the gates you are into the middle of their old, gnarled vines and expansive vineyards. Their attractive garden is the ideal spot to enjoy one of their picnics or sit in the courtyard for a full BBQ experience.
Benvenuto de la Serna Charming, family-run operation making a very decent Sangiovese under the Mil Piedras label.(02622) 420 0782. Carril Los Sauces s/n, VistaFlores, Tunuyan. www. benvenutodelaserna.com Andeluna The old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www. andeluna.com Gimenez Riili A brand new family run affair, part of the exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This is a modern winery in a stunning setting. (0261)155074653/154543240. Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com 30
Tempus Alba A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com Familia Zuccardi A professional, far-sighted operation. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style lunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000.R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Rutini / La Rural Well-stocked museum with invaluable antiques like cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www. bodegalarural.com.ar Lopez Popular, old-style winery with two museums on the wine. Restaurant offers gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar Flichman Steeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. www.flichman.com Familia Di Tommasso Officially the second oldest winery in Mendoza and still run by Argentine hands. Their charming and rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard, just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. familiaditommaso.com
Carinae Small, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú www.carinaevinos.com Cepas Elegidas Making real ‘vinos de autor’, US born Brennan Firth makes his limited production wines in a small winery in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high end wines, a visit and tasting is with the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015. Cecchin A family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you can see the entire process from the beautiful green vineyards to the minimal intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu, www. bodegacecchin.com.ar
SAN MARTIN Familia Antonietti A family winery in San Martin where you can have a tour with the owners, try some of their sparkling wines and stay for a homecooked lunch. (0261) 4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq. Zelazar Chapanay, San Martín.
neuquen Bodega del Fin del Mundo This large industrial winery is Patagonia’s biggest producer and has an impressive range of varietals. (0299) 4855004, RP No 8km, 9 San Patricio del Chañar. Bodega Familia Schroeder A large winery with a good restaurant that produces lots of sparkling wine and Pinot Noirand has dinosaur fossils in the cava. (0299) 4899600, RP No 7, Calle 7 Northe, San Patricio del Chañar. Bodega NQN An attractive boutique production of unique wines with a handsome rustic restaurant and a small posada. (0299) 4897500, RP No 7 Calle 15, San Patricio del Chañar.
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USEFUL INFORMATION Police, Fire Department and Emergency Medical Dial 911. Bus Terminal Tel: 431-3001 Av. de Acceso Este and Costanera. Bus Routes: Maipu, Linea 10 N° 171, 172, 173, Rioja street and Garibaldi. Chacras, N° 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo and Montevideo. Airport Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. Shipping Wine Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. Crime Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. Bike Tours in Maipu The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. Nightclubs In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. Taxi Services Taxi Godoy Cruz Tel: 427-0055 - Radiomóvil Guaymallén Tel: 445-5855 - Mendocar Paraná 250 Tel: 423-6666 - La Veloz del Este Alem 439 Teléfono: 423-9090. Mendoza Expats Club An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. Hair Dresser English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley from Delite will do your hairdo right. Arístides Villanueva 444. (261) 429-9124 - Leocut: Mendoza plaza shopping, (0261) 4490239
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