MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE
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Nยบ44 JUN / JUL 2010
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CONTENTS THE LIST 2010 Locations ...................................................................................... 6 Salons & Spas .............................................................................. 8 Wineries ...................................................................................... 10 Restaurants ................................................................................. 14 Bars ........................................................................................... 18 Shopping...................................................................................... 20 Art ............................................................................................... 21
WINE
Making of the list 2010 by Amanada Barnes
Congratulations! You’ve bought your ticket, packed your bag and made it to the beautiful city of Mendoza but now you are faced with a bigger question, what to do? This is where The List 2010 comes in. Wine Republic magazine has done all the hard work for you and pulled together a list of the public’s favorite wines, wineries, restaurants, bars, spas, shopping and locations in Mendoza. The List 2010 is the product of hundreds of locals and ex-patriots who completed the Wine Republic Survey - some of the winners are perhaps more surprising than others, but we will let you be the judge of that. The specialist categories (including the wineries and arts section) were selected by a panel of professionals who work in the respective fields. Another important component of The List 2010 is that of our First Annual Wine Tasting. Have a look on pg. 22 to find out who was on the judging panel and the scores for 60 of Mendoza’s top wines. So please dive in, have a read, and enjoy visiting some of Mendoza’s best places with us.
Annual Wine Tasting 2010 ........................................................... 22
MAPS & TIPS Useful Information: Emergency, Airport, Wine Shipping, Crime, Night Clubs and Taxi Services .........................................................32 Map of Maipu ..............................................................................32 Map of Chacras de Coria .............................................................32 Map of Mendoza City Center ......................................................34
CREDITS Issue June-July 2010 10,000 Copies Published by Seven Colors S.A. Mendoza, Argentina Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail. ask@wine-republic.com Editor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Julia Allen Publicidad: Ana Laura Aguilera (155018874) publicidad@wine-republic.com Design: Beattub, www.beattub.com.ar Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributing Authors: Amanda Barnes, Eryn Snyder, Charlie O´ Malley, Julia Allen Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com
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VALLEDEUCO
Pull up a seat at any one of Aristides’ many outdoor bars and the street will put on a show for you as the night progresses. Trendy ladies pass by in all their glamour with mulletsporting hipsters while foreigners spill out of hostels eager to sample the local nightlife. The street becomes a crowded melting-pot around one or two in the morning - with the exception of chilly winter time - with all the sights and sounds to keep you happily entertained.
Romantic Retreat: Valle de Uco Valle de Uco: where grape vineyards give way to breathtaking, ice-capped mountains. This scenic valley was one of the last regions populated by Argentina’s indigenous people and proper gauchos still roam the range. While retaining its rustic charm, the valley is most notably home to some of Argentina’s most stunning wineries, including O. Fournier, Andeluna, and Salentein. Stay in one of the areas’ several boutique lodges 6
Pleasing Plaza: Plaza Independencia After a tragic earthquake hit the city in 1861, Mendoza city was redesigned with five plazas to serve as safe zones in the case of another disastrous event. Plaza Independencia is the largest of the five and is located in the heart of Mendoza Centro. Here vendors sell their goods, actors perform, Rastas share mate, couples snog, and Mendocinos and extranjeros (foreigners) alike enjoy resting on the grassy slope facing the plaza’s enchanting fountains. This central location is frequently used by the Municipalidad de Mendoza to host events throughout the year, such as the crowning of the Vendimia queen. Beneath the plaza lie two important cultural centers, the Teatro Quintanilla and the Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno.
Sight the Sites: Aymara
Eye Candy: Aristides villanueva
If walking around a city isn’t your thing, this informative and cheeky tour chauffeurs you around some of the most important tourist spots in Mendoza. From old church relics (at Iglesia San Francisco) to Mendoza’s red-light district, you manage to see most of the city center in a few hours. A highlight is going up to the beautiful Cerro de la Gloria where the monument Ejercito Libertador stands tall and the views overlook the city. 9 de Julio 1023. (261) 420 2064. www.aymaramendoza.com.ar
By Eryn Snyder and Amanda Barnes
(such as Posada Salentein) and wake up to the eastern morning sun shining on the Andes, turning the snow-capped mountains a dazzling pink. If Valle de Uco’s rural tranquility and unforgettable sunrises don’t strike a romantic chord in you, there is plenty of fine wine to be tasted and, to quote a local, “wine always helps romance.” Trips out to this area tend to be significantly more expensive than Lujan de Cujo or Maipu, so take someone you don’t mind dropping some serious dough on.
We don’t know why a ham and cheese sandwich tastes better at San Martin Park, it just does. Maybe it has something to do with the scenic fountains, large grassy fields and shady hideaways; or maybe it is the metal sculpture of angry boars fighting by the entrance. Whatever it is, this park is definitely worth a visit. The small island located on the park’s lake is a great place to set up camp for a leisurely afternoon. After you’ve had your fill head to the Natural History Museum, Mendoza Zoo, or Monument of Ejercito Libertador—all within the park’s borders! Go West and you’ll bump right into it. The main gate is on Emilio Civit and Boulogne Sur Mer.
SANRAFAEL
Place for a Picnic: Parque San Martin
Mendoza is just as popular for its adventure sports as its Malbec. There are some great companies that offer rafting and rappelling and Argentina Rafting is one of the best. For over 16 years the company has been taking people out on the region’s rivers to work their way down rapids which can reach up to grade five in the Summer. Located on Lago Potrerillos, the base for Argentina Rafting is modern and comfortable with hot showers, top notch equipment, a chill-out bar and a restaurant overlooking the turquoise lake. A battered, old, school bus takes you up the river to your raft after the safety instructions. The majestic Andes Mountains jut up around you as you navigate your way down the river. Your friendly guide shouts orders from behind as you slice your paddle through the choppy water, getting fantastically wet! Rappelling is another activity not to be missed here - after a fun mountain walk, leaping over rivers and ducking under a waterfall, you clamber to the top of a rock face and nervously lower yourself backwards over the edge to abseil down - exhilarating stuff! The company also hosts a range of other outdoor activities. Argentina Rafting. (261) 429 6325. www.argentinarafting.com.
Just 240 kilometers (150 miles) from Mendoza, San Rafael is an accessible retreat, offering just enough to keep you happily busy for the weekend. Cradled in rich natural beauty, this peaceful town has attracted both a thriving tourism industry and a resident population of artists, poets, and musicians. San Rafael serves as an excellent setting out point for visiting more rural destinations, such as Malargue, home to the Fiesta Nacional de Chivo, an entire celebration dedicated to grilling goat meat. Other popular day excursions include horseback riding into the Canon del Atuel and rafting trips in Valle Grande. A tour group or rental car is your best option to see the spread out sights; or at a more economical rate, you can take the bus from El Terminal de Omnibus.
Where to get Wet: Argentina Rafting
Weekend Get-Away: around San Rafael
PARQUESANMARTN I RAFTING 7
Spahhhhhh Treatments: Kaua Club & Spa, Park Hyatt
KAUACLUB&SPA
If you really want to spoil yourself, Kaua Club & Spa in the Park Hyatt is a great place to do it. They boast a host of luxury offerings such as: Mendoza’s best Thai massage and spa amenities including a Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, and heated outdoor pool by the sun terrace. The Hyatt prides itself in using local products and as such was the first place in Mendoza to use and sell therapeutic wine products -full of antioxidants- for hair and body. It’s a gorgeous, five star place catering to those who enjoy the good life. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1234. www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com
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Wig Out: Pascual Porco Hair Salon This trendy hair-salon chain will cut your and your boyfriend’s mullets to precision. A team of hairdressers identically dressed in Pascual Porco bowling shirts cut, colour and blow to whip that ‘do into shape. There are salons all over the city, for more information visit www.pascuelporco.com
Dr. Spa: Tiempo de Spa Call me superficial but when I go to the spa I want to look hotter than when I went in. Tiempo de Spa is all for beauty and offer enough treatments to ban any unwanted bodily accessory: Laser Hair removal for permanent hair banishment, Aslavital to conquer ageing, Photo-rejuvenation to remove wrinkles, Carboxiterapia to reduce cellulite, Electrostimulation for sculping muscles. This list is lengthy and with names like Fangoterapia (a thermal mud therapy) and Shock de Hidratacion (a relaxing anti-oxident mask) you may think you’re signing up for some form of torture but Tiempo de Spa keeps pain to a minimum and professionalism to a maximum. It’s the best way to keep that “I’ve just been on vacation glow” all year long. Located in the city center at Granaderos 1245. (261) 420 3839. www.tiempodespa.com.ar
Spa Day Care: Termas Cacheuta People have been dipping their toes in the warm waters of the Cacheuta thermal spas since the early 1800s. Imagine submerging yourself in bubbling, warm, natural springs, on a cold day, surrounded by towering mountains. But Cacheuta takes it a little further than that: mud therapy, waterfalls, hydromassage, bubble beds, swimming pools and steaming temperatures give visitors that youthful ‘feel
CACHEUTA
After some time on the ski slopes or even just a hard day’s work wine tasting, there is nothing better than putting your feet up for a little pampering and relaxation. Here we give you our tried and tested most popular spots to self-indulge – enjoy!
Skiing the Andes is a once in a life time opportunity and Argentina Ski Tours offers all-inclusive, day ski trips to Penitentes (the local ski resort) located at the base of Mt. Acongagua (the tallest mountain in the Americas). Included in the day trip is transport, the newest ski gear, professional ski guides/instructors, lift tickets, meals and a cold beer on the way back to Mendoza. They honor a 3:1 guest to guide ratio and cater to all ski levels. For those who have more than a day to ski, Las Leñas is the place. Four hours south of Mendoza, Las Leñas attracts professionals from all over the world and boasts some of the best off-piste skiing anywhere. For the hardcore skiers, Argentina Ski Tours also offer back-country skiing in the Cordon del Plata Mountain range. www.argentinaskitours.com. (261) 15 630 0026.
The Fluffy Powder Treatment: Argentina Ski Tours By Eryn Snyder, Amanda Barnes and Julia Allen
good’ factor in picturesque luxury. Also included in the day price is a full buffet, bringing literal significance to the saying, you’ll be a happy as a pig in the mud. Take note, there are two Termas in Cacheute, one public bath and one resort spa. The later is the primo experience described above. Located 30 minutes from Mendoza Center in the Cacheuta valley. www.termascacheuta.com
Nails that Tip the Scales: Umara If your nails desperately need some tender loving care than put your tootsies in the capable hands of Umara. It’s Mendoza’s best for fanciful colors, expert filing and flawless fills. Umara has opened two salons in the past year and continues to gives locals shiny, perfectly shaped results. H. Yrigoyen 97. (261) 424 7296
UMARA
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Restaurant Lodging min
Driving Time from Mendoza City
Norton 30 min
LUJAN DE CUYO Terrazas de los Andes
RENACER
Old-style cellars contrast with high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings are conducted at this huge facility and the jug fillings on Thursday mornings are popular with the locals. R.P. 15, Km 23.5, Perdriel. Tel. 490 9700. www.norton.com.ar
Tapiz
20 min
Renacer 30 min
Ruca Malen
CHANDON Dominio del Plata
30 min
40 min
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour that includes an invigorating horse and carriage ride and a tank, barrel and bottle tasting. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32, Agrelo. Tel. 490 0202. www.tapiz.com
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20 min
Expansive lawns and villa-style architecture make Nieto Senetiner one of the prettiest wineries in Mendoza. Fascinating underground cellar and old style tasting room. Wines to try include their brasslabelled Bonarda. Guardia Vieja (no number) Vistalba. Tel. 498 0315. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar
The original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. RP 15, Km 29, Agrelo. Tel. 490 9968. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
This Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final, one of Mendoza’s best value Malbecs. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863. Tel. 261-524-4416/17. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar
TERRAZAS
Nieto Senetiner
Chandon
30 min
The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with wellappointed tasting room. Try the famous Cheval de los Andes. Thames and Cochamaba, Perdriel. Tel. 488 0704/5 www.terrazasdelosandes.com
RUCAMALEN
Overall Winery Experience
Excellent food, great guiding and firstclass wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. Generous tastings and gorgeous views of the vineyards and mountains. Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Lújan de Cuyo. Tel. 562 8357. www.bodegarucamalen.com
40 min
Argentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. Try their Crios and Ben Marco. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo. Tel. (+54) 261 498 9200 www.dominiodelplata.com.ar
MELIPAL
Luigi Bosca
The type of wine tour you do in Mendoza is very much determined by your budget. If you are considering a wine splurge, Mendoza is the place to do it. The fact is there is no other wine region in the world where you can do a high-end tour, including top tastings and a gourmet lunch for the reasonable price of $135 US. Trout & Wine Tours have got the formula exactly right – fun, knowledgeable guides escorting small groups around the heart of Mendoza’s fine wine regions, Lujan de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. As well as trying 16 excellent wines, you`ll enjoy a gourmet winery lunch where each dish is expertly paired with a wine, all washed down with beautiful views of the vineyards and mountains. Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266. Tel. 4255613. www.troutandwine.com
40 min
Cool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Convenient to visit on way to Valle de Uco. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Tel. 420 0800. www. pulentaestate.com
The Best Wine Tour: Trout & Wine Tours
Pulenta Estate
15 min
Old, family owned operation with lots of heritage, handsome cellars and a tasting room. Large selection of wines from lowend to high-end blends. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond. Tel. 498 1974. www. luigibosca.com.ar
Lagarde
Melipal 15 min
Owner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the hand- crafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines; best enjoyed in one of their many courtyards. Ave. San Martin 1745, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 0011 Ext. 27. www.lagarde.com.ar
10 min
Great Malbec and one of the best gourmet lunches around make Melipal an amazing winery to visit. Ruta 7 km 1056, Agrelo. Tel. 524 8040. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
Decero
Fabre Montmayou French-owned winery. The building is new with traditional design. The tasting room is a wooden gallery overlooking the barrel room. Refreshingly unpretentious. Roque Sanz Peña no number, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 2330. www.domainevistalba.com
Catena Zapata 30 min
Showcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. Cobos s/n. Tel. 413 1100. www.catenawines.com
CATENAZAPATA
Attractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo. Tel. 524 4748. www.decero.com
Architecturally impressive with a huge concrete and glass facade and a massive bottling line. They make some of Argentina´s best bubbly. Ruta Nacional, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 5164 www.bodegaseptima.com
Cavas de Cano 20 min
Micro-winery set in a beautiful, colonial building. Lunch is a spectacular buffet with every type of delicacy. Av. San Martin 2488, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 498 7283. www. cavadecano.com
Carmelo Patti 20 min
Mendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Try his famous Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. San Martin 2614. Tel 498 1379.
Vistalba 15 min
Clos de Chacras
Tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Houses French restaurant La Bourgogne. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 9400. www.carlospulentawines.com
Belasco de Baquedano
40 min
Charming boutique operation. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Great Merlot and excellent lunches. Monte Libano s/n, Chacras de Coria. Tel. 496 1285. www.closdechacras.com.ar
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30 min
40 min
CLOSDECHACRAS
20 min
Septima
15 min
Gleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. Cobos 8260. Tel. 153 023 491 www.belascomalbec.com
VALLE DE UCO Salentein 90 min
SALENTEIN
Designed like a temple to wine, this ultraconcept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley. R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. Tel. 0-262-242-9500. www.killkasalentein.com
Clos de los Siete 90 min
Visit three wineries in one and try rich, complex wines surrounded by state-of-the-art architecture and wine-making technology. Calle Clodomiro Silva s/n. Tel. 02622/ 422 054. www.clos7.com.ar
Achaval Ferrer 30 min
A very popular, boutique winery due to its homely appeal and cheerful guides. It’s run by one of Argentina’s most famous winemaker dynasties - the De La Motta family. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond. Tel. 524-1621. www.mendel.com.ar
Hacienda del Plata 20 min
A lovely winery in a pastoral setting. It offers one of Mendoza’s most up close and personal tours with the owners themselves offering up tank and barrel tastings. San Martin 4871. Tel. 496-0900. www.haciendadelplata.com.ar 12
90 min
Simple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and Merlots. R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga. Tupungato. Tel. 422 175. www.bodegalaazul.com.ar
One of the valley’s oldest wineries. They conduct excellent tours and tastings. Av. De Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. Tel 451 010. www.fincalacelia.com.ar
Masterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 496 4684. www. altavistawines.com
30 min
La Azul
90 min
15 min
Mendel
100 min
The wines are faultless and the location stunning. A French operation producing excellent Torrontes and Malbec. Ruta 94 km 21, Vista Flores, Tunuyán. Tel. 441 1134. www.bodegalurton.com
Finca La Celia
Alta Vista
Makes the highest scoring Argentine wine. Modern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. Calle Cobos 2601; Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 488 1131. www.achaval-ferrer.com
Lurton
O. Fournier 100 min
One of Mendoza’s most architecturally stunning winery. It has a three-level vertical structure that processes wine using gravity. Their restaurant offers a truly high-end dining experience. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. Tel. 02622/ 451 088. www.ofournier.com
O.FOURNIER
Benvenuto de la Serna 90 min
Charming, family-run operation making a very decent Sangiovese under the Mil Piedras label. Carril Los Sauces s/n, VistaFlores, Tunuyan. Tel. 420 0782. www.benvenutodelaserna.com
Altus 90 min
A red barn-like winery which faces a lovely adobe-style restaurant doing excellent lunches. Las Vencedoras, Tupungato. Tel. 155 080 261. www.altusdetupungato.com.ar
Lopez
Andeluna
20 min
90 min
The old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. Have a glass of the cabernet, their best wine. Ruta Provincial 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. Tel. 429 9299 ext 113. www.andeluna.com
Aconquija
Popular, old-style winery with handsome tasting room close to Maipu plaza. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez. Tel. 481 1091. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar
ZUCCARDI Familia Zuccardi
90 min
A down-to-earth, family-run affair with good wholesome Malbecs. España 1094, La Consulta, San Carlos. 02622 / 470 0379. www.aconquija.com
Jean Bousquet Modern, French winery making rich, organic malbecs. Ruta 89 S/N Km 7, Tupungato. Tel. 261 155 274 048. www.jeanbousquet.com
MAIPU Trapiche 30 min
Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito. Tel. 520 7666. www.trapiche.com.ar
30 min
Zuccardi is well known for their delicious wines, internationally acclaimed olive oils and fun cooking classes. Their attractive restaurant offers great pow for your peso with an “all you can eat and drink” menu. Ruta Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 441 0000. www.familiazuccardi.com
Benegas Handsome, antique winery, complete with one of Argentina’s most impressive collections of ponchos and a quaint wine museum with items from the 1880’s. Private Tastings in their candlelit cellar are highly recommended. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Tel. 496 0794. www.bodegabenegas.com
Rutini / La Rural 20 min
Tempus Alba 30 min
A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace ovelooks the vineyard. Great Pleno label. Perito Moreno 572, Maipu. Tel. 481 3501. www.tempusalba.com
Well-stocked museum with invaluable antiques such as cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls whilst side rooms hold Victorian era pumps and bottle corkers. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 497 2013 ext.125. www. bodegalarural.com.ar
Get on yer bike! Mr. Hugo Bikes.
Biking is one of the best ways to travel around Maipu’s wine circuit, and for this Mr. Hugo is your man. Mr. Hugo and his wife Norma started renting out bikes over five years ago and in this time they have learnt about what is really important to visitors: good equipment, solid advice, immediate emergency response, and free wine for everyone! Hugo sets you off with a bottle of water, a map, and a direction and it doesn’t take long to hit the first winery (which certainly eases any pain of actually exercising). When you return the owners sit you down with some wine, music, and friendly conversation before helping you onto the bus and waving goodnight. Our parting words of wisdom: “Drink responsibly because a bike under your seat is better than two in the bush.” (261) 497 4067 www.mrhugobikes.com 13
Flichman 40 min
Steeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. Recommended is the top blend Dedicado. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. Tel. (0261) 497 2039. www.flichman.com
Familia Di Tommasso 30 min
Officially declared as a historical monument, this 1869, family-run winery is the oldest of its kind in Mendoza. Their rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard just two steps away. Urquiza 8136 - Russell. Tel 261 5878900. www.familiaditommaso.com
Carinae 30 min
Small, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. Videla Arande 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. Tel. 499 0470 www.carinaevinos.com
CARINAE
Cheap Eats: El Palenque
by Amanda Barnes
Mendocino Munchies: Azafran
AZAFRAN
Azafran crafts great Mendocino cuisine that still embraces its rustic roots and simple flavours but elevates it to fine dining with fanciful presentation and an experienced twist on some of the great Argentine classics. Try one of their signature dishes: gourmet empanadas or the mouthwatering petit filet mignon wrapped in phyllo dough. Sarmiento 765. (261) 429 420
Editor’s Pick for Mendocino Munchies: Casa de Campo For rustic charm and traditional dishes visit Casa de Campo, a 20-minute taxi ride from Mendoza city center. It feels like a welcoming home with its wooden beams, intimate tables, and a small but lively verandah. Locals flock for the mouthwatering Argentine fare. Appetizers come in a taster’s collection of home-made goodies, from bread, prosciuttio and olive oil to sausage, pickled eggplant, cheeses, and olives. Save some room for their clay oven specialties of succulent rabbit and suckling pig. “Grandma´s Menu,” the dish of the 14
BISTROM
day, is made from in-season, locally grown produce. Complement this with a bottle from their extensive wine list and the result is a flavor combination of gourmet quality. A picturesque stroll to Rutini La Rural bodega, just ten minutes away, is a wonderful way to conclude the afternoon. Urquiza 1516, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. 26-481-1605. www.casadecampomza.com
Divine Intervention, Fusion food: Bistro M, Park Hyatt Bistro M combines the irresistable flavours of Europe with some of Argentina’s classic flavours. Working on a hybrid Italian and Spanish format (with antipasto, pasta, meat and side dishes) guests are encouraged to order the starters tapas style with a number of plates to share and bargain over. This is the way I love to eat - working your way through lots of different flavours and variety. Delicate beef carpaccio; juicy, marinated, grilled vegetables; a lightly smoked salmon and caper salad; and plump, tangy king prawns with creamy avocado mousse demonstrated a beautiful spread of European dishes. Aside these were the Argentine favourites: rich sweetbreads cooked in white wine and garlic, and of course, sizzling meat. Here the chefs cook their carne in rich, boozy sauces, although don’t overlook some of their fish dishes - I recommend the lightly roasted hake in a lemony oyster sauce. Take fusion to the next level by uniting a wine from their extensive wine list with whatever delicious flavours you choose. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1234. www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com
El Palenque has a rustic charm to it - honest food, honest prices and a great atmosphere. Three friends opened the resto-bar seven years ago as a meeting place to enjoy a penguin of wine (an old-fashioned penguin shaped jug) and simple, homemade food. It serves its renowned empanadas, pizzas and lomos along with some heartier ‘gaucho’ style fayre. This place isn’t the cheapest but it offers real value and it is clearly doing something right as it usually fills up by 10pm, prompting even the locals to come out early for a table. Aristides Villanueva 287. (261) 154 548 023
Editor’s Pick for Cheap Eats: La Aldea This country-style restaurant specializes in beef but its menu also includes salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a unique selection of papas fritas (French fries). Everything is freshly cooked so prepare to have a bit of patience. There is a good wine list and outdoor seating on the lively sidewalk. The lounge in the back is filled with antique furniture and perfect for chatting over a drink. The plates are big, the wait staff is friendly, the location is central to the best nightlife and the price is right. Look for their 15% off coupon inside the magazine. Aristides Villanueva 495. (261) 425-0420
PRAGA Sea-licious: Praga For those craving seafood in Mendoza the options can seem limited but if you navigate your way to Praga you’ll be in fish heaven. After living in Spain owner Eduardo wanted to bring back the fresh flavours of the Mediterranean to Mendoza . The starters are good sized portions and the gambas al ajillo pack a punch with enough sweet garlic to fend away a vampire. Main courses range from simple fish dishes (like the robust, crispy salmon served with a tangy almond and olive cream sauce) to the slightly more elaborate (like the black ravioli
Eat-sum-mor-a-mi: Sushi Club It has only been in the past few years that Mendoza has welcomed Asian cuisine, but now it is one of the few cities in Argentina that boasts a good sushi restaurant. This upmarket and stylish sushi joint serves some great sushi and Asian flavours, with fish as cooked or uncooked as you like it. The sushi is of course the main attraction and you can watch the sushi chef busy at work preparing your Temaki. Sushi Club has all the Japanese classics like sashimi and nigiri along with American hybrids like the California roll and the creamy Philadelphia roll. However what really stands out is Sushi Club’s own fusion creations such as their placer real (Royal Pleasure): a gorgeous combination of a sushi roll with palm hearts, cream cheese and avocado topped with passionfruit and shredded potato crisps. Round it off with a pot of steaming jasmine tea and you’ll have a tasty slice of contemporary Asia in Mendoza. Belgrano 1112. (206) 429 9316
Spaghetti with confetti: La Marchigiana As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to whet any nonna’s appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera moved to Argentina with her parents as a teenage from war torn La Marche, Italy, in 1948 in the search for peace. They didn’t find peace, but they did find the Argentines had a penchant for Italian food. The family restaurant started off with only six hearty Italian dishes but has grown into a popular local fixture. Check out the Brad Pitt photo 15
for celebrity credentials. The restaurant is now larger and brighter than it was when it started but the food is still as good as ever. The pasta is the best thing here, maintaining original recipes from over 60 years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed ravioli. In short, its simple, hearty Italian fayre that’s bound to make you to cry ‘Mamma Mia!’ Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261) 423 0751. www. lamarchigiana.com.ar
Mexi can-Can: Taco Tabasco With a shot of tequila and some tasty TexMex, you’ll go from being a Mexican’t to a Mexican! Taco Tabasco was voted the best Central/South American restaurants in town, and for good reason. With a long list of tacos, quesadillas and other Mexican dishes there’s plenty to choose from. Most popular are their fajitas, which are served with either classic grilled meat or their ‘special’ fajitas (cooked in creamy pepper, mustard and Roquefort sauces). The fajitas come with pots of garnishes to experiment with - none of which are particularly spicy but there are plenty of fresh flavours to keep you happy, especially when accompanied by a cool beer or one of their blended margaritas. So don your sombrero, soak up the bustling atmosphere and enjoy some milder Mexican food, Argentine style! Aristides Villanueva 321 and San Martin Sur 680.
Editor’s Pick: Cielito Lindo Forget pie in the sky, I’ve been craving burritos since I landed in Mendoza and Cielito Lindo meaning: pretty little sky - offers some Mexitastiness of celestial proportions. It’s in a quiet neighborhood district but the inside of the restaurant is adorable and they actually have hot hot-sauce - even in light of the extreme aversion Mendocinos have to spice. Make a reservation on the weekends because they get packed.On the corner of Hipolito Irigoyen and España. (261) 424-4383
Carne-tropolis: Mercado Central If you know your meat then Mercado Central is a pretty good place to head for just about everything that comes from a cow. Stomachs, tongues, and whopping great livers all grace the counters along with the usual sausages and steaks. The market is open MondaySaturday and is also home to a plethora of fresh veggies, spices and other culinary goodies. On the corner of Las Heras and Patricias Mendocinas.
JESUSMARIA
SUSHICLUB
stuffed with crab and prawns in a cream sauce). The menu also caters to the carnivore and a large selection of salads will give you room to squeeze in Praga’s fantastic creme brulee for dessert. Julio Leonidas Aguirre 413. Tel (261) 425 9585. www.pragamarisqueria.com.ar
Bomb-diggity-Barbecue: El Patio de Jesus Maria Argentina - steak. An obvious connection. When you need to wrap your carnivore lips around a good piece of meat, El Patio de Jesus Maria is a BBQ-lover’s paradise. This Cordoba-style parilla is one of the most popular places for carne in the city. Inside the restaurant you will find a friendly atmosphere, good service and pleasant elevator music playing on the speakers, but it is the huge barbecue outside on their attractive patio where the sacred ritual takes place. The hearty slab of quality, local meat is flashed on the grill above a pile of hot, smoky firewood and then brought inside on a steaming plate along with all its beautiful aromas. I asked for my steak almost mooing and (to my shock) El Patio actually cooked it like this - believe me, this is no small feat in Argentina! Gorgeous beef, properly cooked and paired next to a smoky Malbec; now this is the reason you came to Argentina! Corner of Boulogne Sur Mer and Aristides Villanueva. (261) 429 6767. They also have locations in Chacras, Dalvian and Cordoba.
Hangover Out to Dry: Pancho Villa We all have those days. You can barely haul yourself out of bed after a heavy night (or perhaps you are only just going home) and crave something to eat that will: a) not make you sick, and b) soak up all the remnants of alcohol. Mendoza’s solution? Pancho Villa. A chain hotdog vendor which gives you a wiener smothered in whatever you like. And we don’t just mean the usual ketchup and mustard; here toppings range from olives, to fresh salsa, to smoky mushroom sauce... and the list goes on. We recommend a little bit of everything with crisps on top - trust me, it makes more sense when you’re hungover. Most Pancho Villas are located on Aristides Villanueva (I wonder why).
Ice Scream: Soppelsa
Pizza with Pizzazz: De un Rincon de la Boca vs. Quatro Staggione When conducting our survey, it soon became apparent that locals and foreigners have diverging tastes. Nowhere was this more obvious than in the battle to see who does the best pizza in town. The overwhelming favorite amongst locals is Rincon de la Boca (Las Heras 483. (261) 425 1489) which opened 75 years ago by an ex-footballer from Buenos Aires. Since then, this chirpy pizzeria has etched its way into many a Mendocino’s cheese-fuelled memories. Locals take their pews at Rincon just as much for the gossip and sports TV as for the thick, crunchy crusts topped with mountains of mozzarella and large slices of ham. Foreign tastes lean more towards Italian style finesse with thin, crusty bread and light, fresh toppings. Despite Mendoza’s heavy Italian heritage, such a place is difficult to find. After months of trial and error, our best pizza detectives finally found a triangular slice of heaven not in the city center but in the unlikely neighborhood of Godoy Cruz, ten minutes south by car. The down-to-earth, garden clad, pizza joint is called Quatro Staggione (Av. San Martin 8075, Carrodilla. (261) 436 4246) and is run by an Italian trained pizza prodigy who likes his rucula crisp and his tomatoes juicy. Creative toppings include a masterly mix of apple and blue cheese or a potato sliced masterpiece.
Holy Green Beans! Nuturata It used to be the case that vegetarians in Argentina just had to put up with their ´pan´ without the ´chori´. Fortunately, in recent years 16
Cafe con bakery with a shot of WiFi: Dun Ken Mendoza’s Dun Ken has cabinets and cabinets of tempting looking treats for Argentine sweettooths. However these sugary treats reach beyond the usual realm of dulce de leche and croissants; Dun Ken dominated two of our categories (top bakery and cafe) in the polls. So, pop in for a latte, postre (pastry), or their ultimately indulgent cappuccino (with the delicious surprise of melted chocolate waiting at the bottom of the cup). On the corner of Sarmiento Paetonal and Patricias Mendocinas, and San Martin and San Lorenzo.
DUN KEN
Editor’s pick For Cafe: Kato Cafe This is another case where the local and foreign opinions somewhat differ. At the mag we’re in love with Kato Cafe. It has a modern look, big comfy couches, WiFi and a menu full of delicious pick-me-ups and chill-me-outs. Don’t miss out on their little chocolate muffins. I’m drooling just thinking about them. Emilio Civit 556
SOPPELSA
by Amanda Barnes
Mendoza has caught up with green cuisine. Gustavo and Roxanne stopped eating things with a smile over 20 years ago and after wearing thin of the limited veggie options they opened their own vegetarian restaurant and takeaway joint, Naturata. Working from traditional Argentine recipes in a buffet style, the small and friendly family-run restaurant came top of our polls for its healthy salads and warm dishes. Delicate sweetcorn cannelloni, hearty veg tarts, rich spinach patties and (shock, horror!) healthy empanadas round off a fresh selection of dishes that will satisfy any herbivore. They are open Monday-Saturday for lunchtime only. Don Bosco 73
Rain or shine, wind or snow, ice cream is a must in Argentina and thanks in large to Italian immigration this city produces ice cream that is thick, creamy and full of irresistible calories. Italian heladeria chain Soppelsa Ferruccio has around 50 flavours on offer, but it is no surprise that their most popular flavour is one of their five dulce de leche flavours - superdulcedeleche! Espejo 299. To check out all their locations visit www.fsoppelsa.com.ar
Table for Two: Anna Bistro There is nothing sexier than a bit of fine dining foreplay. With its low lighting, beautiful garden, intimate nooks, and gentle jazz Anna Bistro is the perfect place to woo your woman. Sharing plates and tapas are always the way to go for a romantic start to the meal and Anna Bistro has plenty of fanciful dishes to graze on while looking deeply into each other’s eyes. If you a trying to save room for a few kisses go for one of the salads - full of fresh leaves, colourful vegetables and juicy olives they are bound to boast your energy levels. The one with warm, molten goat’s cheese on crispy crostinis is pretty damn sexy too. For your final trick order the Moelleux de Chocolate - a rich chocolate pudding with a firm crust. Just break the surface to find chocolate as hot as your date. It’s truly an orgasmic experience! Juan B Justo 161. (261) 425 1818. www.annabistro.com.
ANNABISTRO
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by Amanda Barnes
Sloshed with Posh: PH
One way to educate yourself and try some exceptional wine while in Mendoza is to travel around to all the vineyards in the region. However, if time is limited or you want to save yourself the legwork then The Vines, as it`s casually known, has hundreds of Mendoza wines in two stylish, tasting rooms (Park Hyatt Mendoza and Espejo 567). The best way to taste some of the region’s wines is by taking a “flight,” five glasses of different wines. The boutique flights give you the chance to try some younger wines and a few lesser known 18
Dixed Mrinks: Las Terrazas, park hyatt hotel Las Terrazas doesn’t have the most extensive list of cocktails, but what cocktails it does have, it does well. The staff pride themselves in being able to make your favourite classic cocktail how you like it. Being an international hotel, this can be a tall demand with travelers from all parts of the world, but Las Terrazas is up to the challenge. With a handful of fresh ingredients, some great imported and local spirits, and a well trained staff - Las Terrazas is ready to make your Old Fashioned exactly as you like it. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1234. www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com
POR ACÁ Mendoza’s nightclubs are notorious for hefty entrance fees and appallingly slow bar service. The fact that most are located outside the city center means tourists without wheels may find themselves with a long walk home at 5:00 a.m. “Por Aca” means “over here” and that’s exactly where you’ll find Mendoza’s best discobar, located at the top of Aristides Villanueva within staggering distance of Mendoza’s best bars and beer dispensaries. A large rambling house with colorful rooms and friendly staff transforms into a lively dance spot around midnight. Perfect for those who like to gyrate until very late and a promising pick-up joint as well if your vocabulary goes beyond “una cerveza por favor.” Av Arístides Villanueva 557
Poor Man’s Beer: Moe’s, The Train, Petrol Stations
Superstar Wine Bar: The Vines of Mendoza
THEVINES
Disco Bar: Por Aca
Those halcyon days when a litre of beer in Mendoza cost less than a peso have sadly passed. Now most bars charge a stiff 15 to 20 pesos to blow the froth off some barley pop. Somewhat painful if you are a serious drinker who fancies a skinful without emptying the wallet or at least have enough for a super pancho on the way home. Our advice is do what the locals do and follow those pilgrims of parsimony – students. Moe’s Bar (Catamarca and San Juan) is half corner store, half raucous, hole-in-the-wall that never seems to close. Another good bar disguised as a candy store that charges shop prices for in-situ drinking is The Train (Juan B.Justo and Rodriquez). And then of course there is that favorite Argentine watering hole, the service station – a one stop shop for gas and gargle. Just be careful where you throw your match when stepping outside for a cigarette.
PH must stand for posh hot-spot because all the trendy chicos know this is the place to see and be seen. With over 50 cocktails, blue-note jazz and a plethora of attractive people. Owners Juan and Fausto opened the bar last year, recognising that the demands of Mendoza’s visitors had changed and people wanted a more high-brow spot to sip on their martinis. The trained barmen (who hold cocktail clinics in the winter) will run you through an exhausting list of cocktails. Every Friday PH sells over 150 mojitos but if you want to try something a bit more unusual we recommend the glamorous ‘Welcome to Mendoza’ (a fruity cocktail with vodka and a big cinnamon kiss) and for those searching for something more classic (with a twist) go for the ‘G&T by PH’, a proper gin and tonic spiced up with ginger and peppercorns. Go on, go posh for a bit! Artistides VillaNueva 282. (261) 425 5858.
wineries. “Las Muestras” is a good flight to get to know all the typical and emblematic wines of Mendoza - from a light and tropical Torrontes to a tobacco-y Bonarda and, of course, a velvety Malbec. The flight entirely dedicated to the Malbec lets you see what Argentina does best and takes you through a full range of the grape’s capabilities, ranging from cherries and amaretto to forest fruits and lingering smoke. If you are still plowing ahead, then move on to the complex flight of reserve wines. This would be a good time to take advantage of their gourmet cheese plates (to enjoy the pairing and probably help you sober up a little). The Vines is an easy place to spend an afternoon or evening wine tasting, enjoying the reason that you probably came to Mendoza: the great wine. Espejo 567. (261) 438 1031. www.vinesofmendoza.com
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The Happiest Hour: Anna Bistro
by Amanda Barnes
Drinking Bar and Live Music: Antares Antares is a proper drinking bar with homemade brew and live music to boot. Originating in Mar de Plata, Antares concocts seven different beers, ranging everywhere from bitter British to dark, brooding Irish, to braces-slapping German beer. If you really can’t decide between these fields of gold then order their tasting platter - seven mini glasses filled with their artisan beers. For live music, Antares pulls in a local band once a week which will certainly-at least after a couple beers-get you swaying to the right tune. Aristides Villanueva 153.
Dance moves in Mendoza Center: Iskra If you don’t want to spring for a $40 peso cab all the way to Chacras, this fashionable boliche is closer to town. It has a massive dance floor in the biggest of its three rooms and two bars. The music is a mix of rock and reggaeton with the occasional cuarteto song. The cover is $20 and ladies get in free. San Martin Sur 905
Bumpin’ Club: Scanner This boliche is always full, and is popular for a reason. A huge Buddha statue watches over revelers as they enjoy live tunes (bands and DJ´s) and they serve an impressive variety of drinks. Try their perfectly-mixed caipirinha by the poolside. El Challao
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Also voted as the most romantic restaurant in town Anna Bistro has surely created some love connections. The intimate atmosphere, flattering lighting, and two-for-one drink specials make it irresistible for a bit of happy hour romance. Go for a couple karma sutras - a fresh, spicy and boozy cocktail with hints of ginger whose aphrodisiac properties are sure to awaken the senses and maybe even the neighbors. Happy Hour is on most Fridays from 7pm-9pm. Check out when the Mendoza Expats Club has their happy hour there at www.mendozaexpats.org. Juan B Justo 161. (261) 425 1818. www.annabistro.com
ANNABISTRO
Tanga Milonga: Cafe Soul A milonga is a place for Tango dancing and this resto-bar is ready to rumble. It has a simple set-up with a sound system and a no frills dance floor, but the ambiance fades away as couples glide and slide across the linoleum. Classes are available on Wednesdays from 21:00-22:30, are suitable for beginner to intermediate levels, and will cost you $15 pesos a person. On Saturdays the place is packed with sweaty, sultry bodies from 22:00-2:30. Wear clothes that are easy to move in and leave jealous significant others at home. San Juan 456
Nuevos Amigos: Believe Irish Pub Undoubtedly the best bar to meet strangers in town. Believe Irish Pub is one of the few places
you can take a high stool and banter with the staff and punters over a tall brew. Excellent pub grub, a plethora of TV sport screens, and a resident DJ means there is never a dull moment. Monday night is International Night with a healthy mix of locals and foreigners. As the drinks start flowing, conversation typically follows. Before the night is through, you may find you’ve exchanged Facebook contacts with half of the bar. World Cup! June 11th-July 11th is the World Cup of football and with Believe’s 24 TV’s and three flat-screens the bar will be vibrating with fans. They turn on the tubes everyday starting at 11:30am. Colon 241. www.believeirishpub.com.ar
by Eryn Snyder
Fine Wine: Winery With an entire room devoted to Malbec, what’s not to love about Winery? Known around town as “the place” to find Argentina’s best wines, this elegant wine shop is neatly organized and abundantly stocked. Winery carries roughly 800-1000 different labels, with bottles ranging anywhere from AR$12 to AR$3,000. In addition, the store also offers a variety of liqueurs and liquors, locally produced olive oil, and various goodies to accompany your drinks. It is located in an antique, colonial-style building with crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceilings. The friendly staff will happily help you find what you need and they speak English perfectly-although “Malbec please” is pretty easy to translate. Chile 898
Book Nook: Centro Internacional de Libro Desperately in need of a language dictionary or the next installment of Twilight? C.I.D.L. carries everything from paperback romance novels and children’s books to the works of Aristotle. With a decent collection of books in English, this store caters to a wide range of customers and the bilingual staff can help you find a page-turner. Lavalle 14
Trinkets and Treasures: Feria de Plaza Independencia For mate gourds, funky jewelry, and platform, leather, rainbow boots, head to Plaza Independencia and check out the wares of
Espacio Contemporaneo de Arte is an ode to the unusual, quirky, and creative of modern art and sculpture. Set in an austere and beautiful old building, ECA is a well used space with plenty of light. Make sure to get down to the cellar for the weirder exhibitions. 9 de Julio and Gutiérrez
LOCAL VOCALS: KARAMELO SANTO by Amanda Barnes and Eryn Snyder
MUSEUM MUSE: MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES A.K.A CASA DE FADER Some say love is the foundation for all things, but I’m pretty sure this museum’s foundation is made of concrete. Building materials aside love still plays a leading role in this museums creation. The romantic tale goes that while
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Ayllu is a mecca of Latin American arts and crafts, and if your suitcases are begging to be filled with beaded jewelry, pottery, rugs, baskets, sculptures, and colorfully painted wood carvings, you’ve dug into the right magazine. It’s an anthropologists dream and the friendly staff will regale you with stories about where these tribal treasures originated. Located 20 minutes South of the city. Panamericana 8343, Chacras de Coria. www.aylluartepopular.com.ar
Born in the province of Mendoza back in 1993, Karamelo Santo has earned a reputation as a leading band in the growing Latin-fusion scene. Appealing to Argentine diversity, the band mixes distinct Latin rhythms like cumbia and paso doble with punk-rock, ska, and reggae bases. In the past seventeen years, Karamelo Santo has risen to international acclaim, taking the stage with the likes of Metallica, Jamiroquai, and Coldplay. Yet, they have stayed true to their Mendoza roots; many of their lyrics even reference Mendocino locations, customs, and culture.
If your stay in Mendoza is a short one, seek your wine education at the Wine Institute. Collect a couple of friends, explain your goals to the school, and the Wine Institute will create a crash course, in English, that specifically suits your needs. Sarmiento 786, 1st floor. www.wineinstitute.com.ar.
Fads for Fellows: Legacy If you are looking for polo-inspired men´s casual wear, this is your place. Neatly folded shirts and sweaters grouped by color line the shelves and rich wood furnishings give off a gentlemanly vibe. This popular chain has two different locations in the city, as well as stores in both Lujan de Cuyo and San Rafael. Balcarce 867 and Mendoza Plaza Shopping Acceso Este 3280
MOD GAL: ESPACIO CONTEMPORANEO DE ARTE GALLERIA
ECA
Maybe the ninos (kids) don’t realize what is in season this season but Cheeky does! This Argentine chain supplies chic clothing for tots at three of Mendoza´s best shopping centers. Their popularity can be contributed to their adorable vintage designs and wear-ability. Oh baby, you’re gonna love Mendoza! Mendoza Plaza Shopping - Acceso Este 3280, Palmares Open Mall - Ruta Panamericana 2650, Jumbo Mendoza - General Balcarce 897
TRIBAL TREASURES: AYLLU
EDITOR’S CHOICE FOR SOMMELIERS SCHOOL:
Small Fry Treads: Cheeky
This 1925 theatre is one of the prettiest and most prestigious in Mendoza. With local, national, and international productions treading the boards it is no surprise that it came out as the top theatre in our professional panel. On the corner of Plaza Independencia, Teatro Independencia is well integrated into the community hosting some important city cultural events. Corner of Chile and Espejo
If you want to know the difference between smelling plum compote or cherry jam, and how to gurgle wine with finesse, Escuela Argentina de Sommeliers is the place for you. The small school came out top on our survey and if you are feeling brave enough in your Spanish, it is a great place to do a short course in wine. Or you can go the full hog and do a complete two year sommelier course. This is a serious but friendly school that plumps out for some of the more expensive wines and will certainly bring you one step closer to being a wine expert. Hipólito Yrigoyen 242. www.sommeliers.com.ar.
Located on ever-trendy Aristides Villanueva, this boutique is a haven for Mendoza’s fashionista elite. Over the last five years, Donde Aristides Se Tento has gained a reputation for its casualchic style and vast range of options. Here you can find everything from stylish t-shirts and scarves to statement-making stilettos and cocktail dresses. It is one of the few places in town that carries international brands, like Levi and Cook, alongside Argentine designers, such as Akiabara and Paula Cahen D’Anvers. Aristides Villanueva 188
MENDOZA’S STAGE: TEATRO INDEPENDENCIA
SNIFF AND SWILL COLLECTION : ESCUELA ARGENTINA DE SOMMELIERS
Bedazzled in Boutique: Donde Aristides Se Tentó
artist Fernando Fader was employed by the Guiñazú family to paint their wall murals, he fell in love with their daughter. From then on he was captivated and continued to work on the beautiful interior of Casa Fader turning this stately home into a local legend. Museo de Bellas Artes is located on a beautiful estate in Lujan de Cuyo, 20 minutes south of the city, and houses revolving art exhibitions as well as the famous works of artist Fernando Fader. Open everyday on San Martín 3651, Lujan.
CASAFADER
Mendoza’s local artisans. It’s the best place for condensed souvenir hunting. Even if the Rastafarian woven bracelets all start looking the same to you, the combined charm of the bustling plaza and congenial vendors will surely win you, and your wallet, over at some point.
wine republic
Wine Tasting 2010 by Amanda Barnes
How do you come up with a list of the best wines in a region like Mendoza? It was never going to be an easy task, but in our first Annual Wine Republic Tasting we certainly wanted to get as many wines in there as possible. First, a shortlist was drawn up of the region’s best wines. This was done by compiling a nominee list from the wine gurus at Winery, Vines of Mendoza, Vino y Sol as well as the wineries favorites. Secondly we needed to recruit a body of judges capable of scoring these fantastic wines (see below for our professional panel). Finally, it was a case of pulling it off on the night. On Monday, April 26th, seven judges, 16 helpers, and a handful of local press and personalities gathered in The Executive Hotel for an evening of wine tasting. With 60 wines ahead of them, the seven judges had to swirl, sip, spit, and score each wine before moving onto the next flight. After a grueling three hours the judges had worked their way through whites, sparkling wines, roses, reds, and sweet wines, and were finally able to put their feet up and swallow some of the gorgeous vino along with other guests at the post-tasting wine reception. Speaking to some of the judges after the tasting, they had all felt it had gone well and were in fact ready for some more! “I would have happily carried on,” said Marcelo Casazza, a viticulture consultant and sommolier. “There was a very good level of wines here and a nice range representative of Mendoza.” For judge David Kingsbury, the real stars of the show were the blends. “What really came through tonight were the blends - we had some really excellent wines,” he said. “Maybe there is something there to be said about the future direction of Argentine wine.” Wine writer and local expert Enrique Chrabolowsky also came to the tasting, although due to schedule conflicts was unable to judge: “I think it was a good tasting and very professional with strong judges and great wines,” he commented. “There is a good intention here and I think in the future there will be more and more wineries eager to participate.”
What is a Blind Tasting? by Charlie O’Malley Dom Perignon, the famous Champagne wine-maker perfected the blind tasting. When trying his wines, he forbade his servers to tell him from which vineyard each sample came so it would not affect his judgment. The same principle is applied to the modern blind tasting, the most unbiased way to judge a wine. A committee of seven expert tasters try from wine bottles wrapped in paper bags – even the shape of the bottle is disguised to fool the most astute judge. Each taster awards up to 100 points to each wine in an atmosphere resembling an exam hall and judges are forbidden to confer and compare notes. From each result an average is taken to prevent a rogue judge affecting the outcome. The annual Wine Republic Tasting gives an unbiased assessment of Argentina’s finest wines. Unlike many competitions, the wineries do not pay to enter and there is no gold medal bonanza to keep participants happy. What comes out on top is truly top. 22
Craving that Malbec from the stateside? If you have already caught your flight home to the US but haven’t got your fill of Argentina’s wines, visit www.vinesofmendoza.com to join their wine club and get some of the region’s best wines delivered to your door.
The Judges
by Julia Allen Marcelo Casazza has over 16 years of experience in the wine industry. Professionally he is a viticulture consultant and has been hired to give his expertise to over 30 wineries in Argentina, Spain, and Hungary. He has worked with well-known consultants Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs, Alberto Antonini, and Isabel Mijares, and managed the crops of wine giants Salentein, Trapiche, and Chandon. Gabriela Celeste is a viticultural consultant and agricultural engineer. For the past ten years she has worked at Eno. Rolland SA alongside wine expert Michel Rolland. She has also studied wine making in France, Italy, and Argentina. Duncan Killiner is a winemaker from New Zealand as well as a consultant for Cellar World and co-owner of Manos Negros wines. Duncan has worked in wine for 12 years with clients all over the world but the majority of his time has been spent in the Chilean, Argentine, and Uruguayan industries. David Kingsbury has an undergraduate degree in Oenology and a master’s degree in Wine Business. He was a winemaker with Rosemount Estates in Australian before moving to Bordeaux for eight years where he worked as the head winemaker in two international negociants. In 2001 David moved to Argentina as a winemaker consultant and is now the CEO of Gransud. Luis Mantegini has a degree in tourism and is a professional sommelier. He began working in wine for 13 years and specializes as a guide in private wine tours. Currently he works as a consultant for wine tourism companies. Christina Pandolfi is a seasoned wine expert with years of experience judging international wine competitions such as OIV and Vinofed. Currently she is the Assistant Director of Technical Statistics and International Subjects at the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura and also represents Mercosur and Grupo Mundial de Comercio del Vino in international negotiations. Jennifer Valenta is a wine broker and consultant of boutique wines from Chile and Argentina through her business Baby Siena Wines. She received her sommeliers certificate from the Court of Master Sommeliers and is an expert on Californian wine.
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wine republic tasting 2010
the results 70
80
90 86
Torrontes | Mil Vientos | 2009 | Merced Del Estero Herbaceous with delicate floral notes.
$20 AR
84
Torrontes | MLBC | 2008 | Alessandro Speri Fresh, lemony aromas with a citric finish
$30 AR
85
Torrontes | JosĂŠ L. Mounier | 2009 | JosĂŠ L. Mounier Honeysuckle and apples.
$40 AR
88
Torrontes | Crios de Susana B. | 2009 | Dominio Del Plata Fruity with notes of honey. Robust acidity and concentrated finish.
$43 AR
Torrontes | Altavista Premium Torrontes Estate Wines | 2009 | Alta Vista Crisp acidity complimented with aromas of rose water, fresh grass and pineapple.
$47AR
87 89
Sauvignon Blanc | Tapiz | 2009 | Tapiz Nice balance of acidity with notes of lemon peel and apple.
$39 AR
88
Sauvignon Blanc | B Crux | 2008 | O. Fournier High minerality with refreshing acidity and an excellent finish.
$80 AR
87
Chardonnay | Reserva | 2008 | Terrazas de los Andes Elegant and well integrated with notes of apples and grapefruit.
$51 AR
88
Chardonnay | Reserve | 2009 | Salentein Smokey, toasted aromas with a touch of butter and popcorn.
$53 AR
91
Chardonnay | Angelica Zapata Chardonnay Alta | 2005 | Catena Zapata Apples, caramel and honey. Very rich and concentrated.
$90 AR
85
Sparkling | Santa Bax Extra Brut Rose, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir | 2008 | Domaine Jean Bousquet Mature fruit with a touch of toast.
$35 AR
88
Sparkling | Lois Malbec Espumante | Foster Fresh, fruity aromas with subtle hints of strawberry and cream.
$39 AR
87
Sparkling | Extra Brut | Chandon Fine bubbles emit hints of yeast and toast. Rose | Foster Pink | 2009 | Foster Herbaceous with a touch of cherries and cranberries. Rose | Obra Prima Cabernet Sauvignon Rosado | 2009 | Familia Cassone Sweet, mature fruitiness.
$40 AR
82 $35 AR
78 $35 AR
89
Tempranillo | Urban Uco | 2008 | O. Fournier Scents of rosemary and raspberry.
$39 AR
Pinot Noir | Salentein Reserve | 2008 | Salentein Strong, ripe aromas of strawberries and cherries.
$53 AR
Petit Verdot | Ruca Malen | 2008 | Ruca Malen An excellent, concentrated wine with robust tannins. Petit Verdot | Decero | 2007 | Decero Dulce de leche and cinnamon. A big, complex wine. Merlot | Reserva | 2007 | Domaine Jean Bousquet Soft hints of cherry.
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89 88 $80 AR
87 $100 AR
87
$25 AR
POINTS
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wine republic tasting 2010
the results 70 Merlot | Merlot Occhioverde | 2006 | Vi単a Esencia Good acidity and finish with full mouth-feel.
80
90 88 $25 AR
89
Malbec | Carinae Malbec | 2007 | Carinae A well-honed malbec with lots of cherry.
$25 AR
Malbec | Malbec Zagal | 2008 | Hacienda del Plata Cherries and flowers.
$25 AR
Malbec | Azul | 2009 | La Azul A classic Malbec with herbal notes. Malbec | Sangre de los Andes | 2008 | Bodega Oralia Soft and floral elegance. Malbec | La Celia Reserva | 2007 | Finca La Celia Silky mouth-feel with dark fruit flavours. Malbec | Punto Final Reserva | 2006 | Renacer A dark, complex, agreeable wine. Malbec | Prodigo Malbec Reserva | 2006 | Alessandro Speri Mineral undertones and a peppery nose. Malbec | Tapiz Reserva | 2007 | Tapiz Lots of fruit topped with herbs of rosemary. Long finish. Malbec | Mayoral Gran Reserva | 2006 | Hacienda del Plata Good fruit and good finish. Malbec | Reserva | 2004 | Cavagnaro Rose on the nose with a port taste and toasty finish.
89 87 $28 AR
86 $46 AR
87 $58 AR
90 $75 AR
88 $75 AR
90 $75 AR
89 $75 AR
91 $75 AR
90
Malbec | Alta Vista Terroir Selection | 2007 | Alta Vista Coconut, vanilla and coffee aromas. Excellent finish.
$80 AR
Malbec | D.V. Catena Malbec | 2005 | Catena Zapata An elegant and concentrated wine with heaps of cherries and cranberries.
$85 AR
Malbec | Kaiken Ultra | 2007 | Kaiken Hints of chocolate and vanilla.
$89 AR
Malbec | Kinien | 2007 | Ruca Malen Lovely balance with hints of vanilla and cinnamon.
$115 AR
Malbec | Melipal Reserve | 2006 | Melipal Intense concentration backed by cherries and plums. Malbec | Primus | 2006 | Salentein Excellent structure topped with strawberries and liquorice. Syrah | Callia Magna Shiraz | 2007 | Bodega Callia Well rounded with good acidity and black pepper aromas. Syrah | Reserva | 2007 | Terrazas de los Andes Pepper, tobacco and eucalyptus. Cabernet Sauvignon | Azul | 2009 | La Azul Dry fruit mixed with herbs.
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90 90 91 90 $160 AR
91 $280 AR
88 $33 AR
89 $51 AR
87 $28 AR
POINTS
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wine republic tasting 2010
the results 70 Cabernet Sauvignon | Kaiken Reserva | 2008 | Kaiken Subtle tannins and a chocolate finish Cabernet Sauvignon Decero | 2007 | Decero A spicy nose backed with vanilla and blueberries. Cabernet Sauvignon | Kaiken Ultra | 2007 | Kaiken Nice balance with hints of smoke and blackcurrant. Cabernet Sauvignon | Afincado | 2005 | Terrazas de los Andes A meaty, tannic wine with compelling finish. Cabernet Franc | La Celia Reserva | 2007 | Finca La Celia A young wine with excellent potential. Blend (Malbec/ Cab Sauv) | Pura Sangre, Angel A Mendoza | 2005 | Domaine St. Diego Great nose, powerful palate and agreeable finish.
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90 88 $39 AR
87 $60 AR
90 $89 AR
89 $156 AR
89 $64 AR
90 $40 AR
91
Blend malb/cabs/syrah/pv | Atemporal | 2007 | Alta Vista Rich fruit and good balance.
$65 AR
89
Blend (Malbec/ Merlot) | Benvenuto de la Serna | 2006 | Benvenuto de la Serna Sagebrush aromas with lots of fruit.
$69 AR
Blend (Cab Sauv/Malbec) | Azul Reserva | 2004 | La Azul Figs, raisins and cassis.
$82 AR
Blend (Malbec/ Cab Franc/ Cab Suav) | Paradigma | 2007 | Domaine St. Diego Notes of Musk and eucalyptus. Biting acidity.
$90 AR
89 89 91
Blend (Malbec/ Petit/ Tannat) | Trisagio | 2006 | Benvenuto de la Serna Freshly cut grass, cherries with excellent balance. Blend (Malbec/Cab Sauv) | Azul Gran Reserva | 2005 | La Azul A complex blend with strong aromas of fig and an enduring finish.
$92 AR
91 $100 AR
89
Blend (Tempranillo, Malbec Syrah) | B Crux Red Wine | 2005 | O. Fournier Truffles and vanilla.
$130 AR
Blend (Malbec/Merlot) | Numina, Spirit Vineyard, Gran Corte | 2005 | Salentein Velvety mouth-feel with aromas of figs and plums.
$130 AR
89 92
Blend (Malbec/Syrah/Cab sauv) | Prestige | 2007 | Carinae A rich and concentrated wine.
$244 AR
Blend (Cab Franc/ Cab Sauv/ Merlot/ petit) | Meritage | 2006 | Benegas Lynch Basil, thyme, spice and plums.
$250 AR
Blend /Malbec/cab) Alto | 2006 | Alta Vista A complex, concentrated wine with a persistent finish.
$350 AR
92 92 91
Blend | Agrelo, Estiba Reservada | 2004 | Catena Zapata Cinnamon and vanilla with a smokey, toasty finish. Sweet | Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva licoroso | 2008 | Domaine Jean Bousquet Blueberries and damsons. Sweet (Petit Manseng) | Afincado Tardio Petit Manseng, single vineyard 2006 | Terrazas de los Andes Honey, apricots and quince.
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$630 AR
86 $25 AR
90 $92 AR
POINTS
100
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Police, Fire Department and Emergency Medical Dial 911 Bus Terminal Tel: 431-3001 Av. de Acceso Este and Costanera. Bus Routes: Maipu, Linea 10 N° 171, 172, 173, Rioja street and Garibaldi. Chacras, N° 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo and Montevideo. Airport Tel: 448 0017 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. Shipping Wine Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least $12 US a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. Crime Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. Bike Tours in Maipu The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (see above) to Urquiza street where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. Nightclubs In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. Taxi Services Taxi Godoy Cruz Tel: 427-0055 - Radiomóvil Guaymallén Tel: 445-5855 - Mendocar Paraná 250 Tel: 423-6666 - La Veloz del Este Alem 439 Teléfono: 423-9090 Mendoza Expats Club An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. Hair Dresser English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley from Delite will do your hairdo right. Aristides 429. (261) 429-9124
useful information
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