Who's Hungry? Magazine | Early Spring 2012 | No 1
Blending the worlds of food and photography, the magazine features travel stories and recipes from top food writers, as well as styling tips, interviews, and of course, stunning images by Stephen Hamilton.
e a r ly s p r i n g 2 0 1 2 NO 0 0 1 1 FEATURES 6 Stylistâ€™s Corner 12 5 Great Pizzas 14 2 CONTENTS Portrait of a Chef 16 32 Mustard Valley: Photo Essay Weather Permitting CONTENTS 36 In Season: Photo Essay 4 Contributors 5 Letter from Steve 6 Stylistâ€™s Corner 8 Out of the Bag 10 Art of the Pizza Pull 12 5 Great Pizzas 14 Portrait of a Chef 16 Mustard Valley 30 High Spirits 32 Weather Permitting 36 In Season 48 How We Did It CONTENTS 3 contributors NO 0 0 1 judith mara | Editor and Writer ian law | Design Deirdre O’Shea | Production Director Judith has worked with Stephen for the last six Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™ If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton, you’ve years and helped to lead the editorial concept magazine with meticulous attention to detail and worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years of expe- and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An typography, and helped turn static images into an rience in managing photography studios, Deirdre award-winning former creative director for major interactive experience. His award-winning design has a hand in nearly every aspect of Stephen’s ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter work has been featured in the pages of Print, Cre- business. She’s been instrumental in organizing Thompson, Judith penned “Weather Permitting” ativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA. the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and and literally hand wrote “How We Did It.” janet rausa fuller | Writer always keeping production on schedule. kate bernot | Editor and Writer steve dolinsky | Writer Janet is the former food editor of the Chicago Sun- A freelance food writer and editor, Kate Bernot has Since 2003, Steve has been the recognizable face Times. A two-time James Beard Award finalist, she contributed to NBC’s The Feast, Chicago Sun-Times, of ABC 7’s “The Hungry Hound,” filing reports on created the paper’s food news beat and won a Peter Conde Nast Traveler, and Serious Eats Chicago, and the best eats in Chicago. He has also appeared as a Lisagor Award for consumer reporting for her story was just named the dining critic for RedEye and guest judge on “Iron Chef America,” as a contribu- on the city’s changing restaurant scene. For Who’s the editor of BlackboardEats Chicago. She helped tor to “Unique Eats,” and serves as one of the Acad- Hungry?™ magazine, she reported on the elusive develop the editorial vision of Who’s Hungry?™ emy Judges for “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.” world of mushrooms, and tested the recipes that magazine, and wrote about mustard plants, liquid For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Steve tracked accompany the story. When she’s not cooking for nitrogen cocktails, and chef Sarah Grueneberg’s down the greatest pizza pies worth traveling the her two daughters and husband, she’s snacking. pasta for this inaugural issue. country for. a special thanks to : Paula Walters, Tom Hamilton, Andrew Burkle, Raymond Barrera, Josephine Orba, Kim Hartman, Micah Melton, Craig Schoettler, Ruth Siegel and CeCe Campise 4 CONTRIBUTORS LETTER FROM STEVE Culinary culture is always present in my studio, even when the cameras are put away. From discussions around the lunch table to visits from chefs and farmers, I’m always curious about the stories other people tell through food. Each story in this magazine has been a personal opportunity for me. It’s a chance to take new, beautiful photography, and a chance to learn about people and places that fascinate me, from mustard plants in Napa Valley to mushroom foragers in Chicago. Of course, there’s a hefty dose of fun in here, too. You’ll find behind-the-scenes looks at how our stylists make magic in the studio, as well as recipes and This magazine has been a dream of mine for a long time. Its restaurant recommendations from top purpose is to bridge the worlds of food and photography, to national food writers. blend my passion for both and share that enthusiasm with a The beauty of the digital platform is that wider audience. Together, the images and stories represent my it allows me to keep this content fresh. reflections on a food-focused life. The stories in this magazine reflect the bounty of spring, with its promise of new growth and adventure. It’s a heady, intoxicating season, and an appropriate theme for our first issue. I hope this magazine is as much a joy for you to read as it has been for me to conceive. Flip the pages, dive into a story, and ask yourself, “Who’s Hungry?™” STEPHEN HAMILTON LETTER FROM STEVE | CONTRIBUTORS’ PORTRAITS BY ANDREW BURKLE | S T E V E ’ S P O R T R A I T B Y AV E R Y H O U S E 5 6 STYLIST’S CORNER: MOSS AS MUSE STYLISTâ€™S CORNER Moss as Muse Prop styling brings a table to life, setting the mood for the meal ahead. Paula Walters, a professional stylist for more than 20 years, was given only one cue for this place setting: spring moss. To capture the rich and varied green tones of moss without using the actual plant, Paula chose cruciferous vegetables that have similar visual appeal. The vintage and Asian props evoke a Zen garden, where moss commonly grows in quiet, shaded spaces. To recreate this for your table, group similarly colored bowls of varying heights and diameters, fill them with water and a base of clean stones, then add rich, cruciferous vegetables. The beauty is in the fresh simplicity. paula walters P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | S T Y L E D B Y P A U L A WA L T E R S 7 2 K-Y LIQUID This gel, normally stashed away in nightstand drawers, can be used to bind food crumbs together. 1 OILâ€“ABSORBING SHEETS These cosmetic blotters are normally used for touching up oily skin, but they can also help reduce shine on moist meats or cheeses. 8 OUT OF THE BAG POLIGRIP DENTURE CREAM If it’s strong enough to hold Grandpa’s teeth in place, it’s also strong enough to stick ingredients together when stacked on a sandwich. 3 OUT BAG of the Stephen Hamilton keeps his subjects as natural as possible, using real food and fresh ingredients. But even the best dishes may still need some enhancements to make them shine on camera, which is why food stylists have entire kits of jars, bottles, and tools to help them bring out the ingredients’ beauty. Here, a few of the curious surprises that might spill from stylists’ bags…not from their medicine cabinets. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 9 THE ART of the PIZ ZA PULL by K AT E B E R N O T The best food photography evokes a visceral reaction. All five senses are engaged, creating a nearly palpable desire to dig in to the dish. When photographing a pizza, itâ€™s the pull of melted, gooey cheese that makes our mouths water. But achieving this is no easy task; it requires a knowledgeable stylist, a complex rig set-up, and some magic from the photographer. Click on the buttons to the right for a peek at our methods. 10 THE ART OF THE PIZZA PULL » » THE PULL It’s not the model’s hand that holds the slice in place. THE CRUST Baking preparation and technique are the keys to the pizza’s blistered, crusty edges. » THE CHEESE Precision styling makes the cheese look stretched and piping hot. THE STEAM It takes a bit of machinery to create this fresh-from-the-oven look. » P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 11 GREAT 1. PIZZERIA BIANCO, PHOENIX, AZ 2. GREAT LAKE, CHICAGO, IL Obsession isn’t something you want in Nick Lessins looks up to Chris Bianco, so ex-girlfriends or IRS agents, but when it what does that tell you? For starters, he comes to the guy making your pizza, all makes every pie himself, always working bets are off. Every night (after you’ve waited alone, and his long-fermented dough is in line or had a few drinks in the college the stuff of dreams – it results in a crust – campus-like house next door), you’ll see and a cornicione, or lip—with a beautiful Chris Bianco all by his lonesome behind the structure and a one-of-a-kind tang that has counter, just a few feet from the mouth of just the right amount of salt. That’s quite an his beehive-shaped wood-burning oven. It’s achievement, considering he uses a regular here where he forms every crust by hand, electric oven to bake his four types of pizzas. topping it with bits of mozzarella he’s made The waits can be interminable – there are himself, sausage that probably came from just four tables – and don’t even bother New York and herbs he probably picked asking about delivery or reservations. himself from nearby, resulting in a pizza with a beautiful char and chew. PIZ ZAS by STEVE DOLINSKY We asked Steve Dolinsky, Food Reporter for ABC 7 News in Chicago and 12-time James Beard Award winner, what five pizzas he thinks are worth a special trip. Portrait by Todd Rosenberg Photography 12 5 G R E AT P I Z Z A S 3. PIZZERIA MOZZA, LOS ANGELES, CA 4. MOTORINO, NEW YORK CITY, NY 5. FRANK PEPE’S, NEW HAVEN, CT Nancy Silverton is to dough what Lance I have to admit, I was dubious about Any Yale Bulldog worth his/her Ivy League Armstrong is to cycling: both have a mastery Motorino, hidden away on a street in the education knows that the war of dough of their skill set. But where Armstrong relies West Village. Sure, the location was charming and cheese between Frank Pepe’s and on his legs, Silverton relies on her innate and the room was tightly packed with folks Sally’s Apizza is one of New Haven’s longest ability to tease the best out of yeast, flour from the neighborhood, but surely this had running and most beloved battle royals . I and water. She honed her skills in Europe to be just another pizza joint that was getting think the edge goes to Pepe’s, primarily for and as the founder of La Brea Bakery and too much press by virtue of being located in their massive oven that’s the length of a Campanile in L.A, then teamed up with a New York (having started in Brooklyn). Boy, school bus and constantly loaded up with guy named Batali to open Osteria Mozza was I wrong. The crusts – nicely blistered coal, producing incendiary temperatures as well as a pizzeria right next door. Where and puffed on the outer edge – were full of that render the oddly misshapen pies with some pizzaolas might venture into creamy flavor and mildly salted chew, with a great a killer crust. Be sure to try at least one burrata or spicy sausage, Silverton would complexity so rare among New York pies. The white clam pizza; it’s a true mark of East rather use earthy chanterelles and peak-of- brussels sprouts and pancetta version was Coast pizzography. the-season squash blossoms to grace her particularly memorable. pizzas. One thing you can’t deny: the crusts here are ethereal. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 13 P O R T R A I T OF A CHEF S A R A H G RU E N E B E RG b y K AT E B E R N O T 14 PORTRAIT OF A CHEF: SARAH GRUENEBERG A Texas girl at heart, Sarah Grueneberg is the executive what’s the worst sin committed by americans cooking italian food? chef at Michelin-starred Spiaggia restaurant in Chicago, and Cooking pasta first with unseasoned was the runner-up on the most recent season of Top Chef. water and then pouring the sauce on Working with mentor Tony Mantuano, Sarah has continued afterwards. Marry the pasta and the his tradition of authentic, elegant food inspired by the sauce together by cooking the pasta with the sauce [in a sauté pan]. ingredients, language, and people of Italy. what three items are always in your home fridge? Parmigiano-Reggiano, no-fat Greek yogurt —I eat that daily—and kombucha. I’m on a big kick with kombucha. I just bought how has your cooking evolved over your career? what’s the best bite of food you’ve ever had in italy? My career started in Houston, Texas, Wow, there’s been so much. Probably with Creole, Cajun, and Texas cuisine. the eggplant parmigiano in Rome at I really focused on the farms, game Grano Restaurant. I was like “Holy Shit.” meat, and Gulf Coast seafood. Then, I realized, “Wow, this has been made when I moved [to Chicago], it was incorrectly my entire life.” It’s made Italian. I really tried to learn and without bread crumbs, and not a ton study and be as well educated on of cheese. I do it now at the restaurant Italian cuisine as I could. I fell in love when eggplants are in season and with it, and that really became my people just rave about it. twelve jars the other day. if you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing? When I was a little girl, I wanted to be a marine biologist or archeologist, but I don’t know that that’s still true. I love history, and I tie my love of food together with the history of Italy, so maybe I’d be a historian. choice of cuisine. how did top chef fit into that? On Top Chef, you realize that these judges have seen everything, and the dishes that I might love to make and that I believe in so much aren’t enough to wow them. You have to start forcing yourself out of your comfort zone. I want to keep looking for other ingredients [that are] out there that I can integrate into my style. This squid ink tagliatelle with spot prawns and coconut was the first course that Sarah Grueneberg prepared on the Top Chef Season 9 finale. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 15 16 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y b y K AT E B E R N O T MUSTARD VA L L E Y While the grapevines sleep and the days gradually become filled with more sunlight, the vineyards of Napa unfurl a blanket of lush greens and golden yellows. It’s early spring, and it’s mustard season in the Valley. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 17 The Biblical parable of the mustard seed speaks to the enormous power of one of the world’s smallest seeds. From a dot the size of a pinprick, a mustard plant can grow nearly nine feet tall, cascading down the mountains Three months after the last of the autumn’s rains, long after the last grapes have been plucked from the vines, the first shoots of mustard spring from between the rows of brittle, empty grape branches. Winemakers know and hills of Napa in a blaze of brilliant yellow. But no one that these plants are as crucial to their understands the potential of the mustard plant like Napa’s grapes’ health as proper rainfall or rich winemakers, who rely on the black mustard plant for much nutrients and water, repel damaging more than just its chartreuse blooms. nematodes, and prevent soil erosion. soil; they help the grapevines absorb While the grapevines slumber, the unseen roots of the mustard plants work quietly beneath the earth. 18 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y While the grapevines slumber, the unseen roots of the mustard plants work quietly beneath the earth. California vineyards began to plant mustard as a cover crop at the turn of the 20th century, but the plant has an even longer history in The Golden State. Locals tell the story of Father Junipero Serra, a Spanish priest who came to the coast in the 19th century as a missionary. As he traveled north across the sparsely populated expanse, he scattered Spanish mustard seeds behind him on the path. When the Franciscan made his return trip the following year, he needed no map, simply following the bright swath of the blooming mustard flowers. (continued on page 22) P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 19 Most of you don’t think about making your own mustard from scratch. Why not? It’s actually easy if you are willing to wait a couple days. The main ingredients are mustard seeds or powder and liquid (water, beer, wine, cider, vinegar). You let that soak for a day or two, then add your seasonings. Done. mustard seeds There are three primary types of whole-grain mustard seeds: yellow/ white is the mildest and used mainly in American-style mustards and for pickling; brown, which is zestier and used in European-style mustards, for pickling, and in Indian cooking; and black, which is also used in Indian food. (Black mustards seeds are whole-grain beer mustard (makes 16 oz.) interchangeable with brown.) 1/2 cup brown or black mustard seeds, 1/4 cup yellow mustard seeds, 3/4 cup dark beer, 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar, mustard powder 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, Is nothing more than ground mustard 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper seeds. The most common brand is Colman’s and is a blend of brown and white seeds. 20 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y Click to view complete recipe » dijon-style mustard (makes 10 oz.) 2 cups dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chablis), 1 large onion, finely chopped, 2 cloves garlic, minced, 4 ounces mustard powder, 2 tablespoons honey, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt Click to view complete recipe Âť P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 21 Now, those blooms guide not Spanish priests but tourists and photographers, who flock to wine country in January, February, and March to witness the hills’ transformation. For vineyards, the mustards’ annual arrival is a sure portent of spring, enriching the soil before the Merlot and Malbec vines snap to life for another season. The mustards’ deep roots cling to the earth, preventing soil erosion while improving water penetration. 22 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y duck breast salad with mustard vinaigrette (makes 2 servings) mustard vinaigrette salad 3 tablespoons minced shallots (about 2 medium shallots), 1 tablespoon white vinegar, 2 quail eggs, 4 cups baby 2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon or whole-grain mustard, spinach, 1 baby yellow beet, peeled and very thinly sliced, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons balsamic 8 ounces smoked duck breast, cut into bite-size pieces vinegar, 1 clove garlic, minced, 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt, black pepper Click to view complete recipe Âť P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 23 For organic and biodynamic winemakers especially, mustard is worth its weight in gold. The plants give nitrogen and other beneficial nutrients back to the soil, reducing the need for chemically-based fertilizers. The plantsâ€™ leaves and flowers also create an Edenic refuge for birds and insects that eat harmful species among the grapes. In a seemingly wild burst of vine and flower, an entire symbiotic ecosystem silently pulses, one plant supporting the other, each playing a natural role in a delicate relationship. 24 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y A platter of cured meats, tiny spring vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and capers is the quintessential companion to just about any type of mustard. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 25 Of course, most people have no opportunity to witness this silent cooperation. Mustard reaches them in its edible form: the seeds left whole or crushed, bruised, or ground into a paste that adds a familiar tangy flavor. More than likely, this mustard did not come from a vineyard, but it could have come from the same plant, the Brassica nigra. The raw seeds come to life with just the addition of salt, vinegar, and sugar, lending a spicy and sour counterpoint to richer meat dishes, and subtly coaxing the nuances out of lighter vegetables when whisked into vinaigrette. 26 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y mustard & honey pork tenderloin (makes 3 to 4 servings) 1 pound pork tenderloin, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 2 1/2 tablespoons honey, 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, fresh rosemary sprigs Click to view complete recipe Âť P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 27 two mustard cornish hen (makes 2 servings) 2 small lemons, 1 Cornish hen (about 1 1/2 pounds), 3 tablespoons apricot preserves, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper Click to view complete recipe Âť facts for cooks 1. Cooking mustard significantly reduces its pungency. 2. Mustard adds flavor to dishes without adding fat or sugar. 3. Mustard seeds can also be fried or toasted and added as a garnish. 4. All parts of the mustard plant are edible, not just the seeds. Mustard greens are exceptionally tasty. 28 M U S T A R D VA L L E Y P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY RUTH SIEGEL 29 M E E T V I OL E T TE b y K AT E B E R N O T No liqueur captures the ethereal It’s a favorite ingredient at The Aviary, color and fresh, fleeting bloom cocktail wizardry. The Aviary is a place of spring like crème de violette, a spirit distilled from violets. From its lavender hue to its kiss of botanical flavor, it captures the promise of the season in a glass. 30 HIGH SPIRITS: MEET VIOLETTE Grant Achatz’s futuristic temple of where bartenders are not bartenders, or even mixologists—they are chefs. Executive chef Craig Schoettler uses a splash of the violette in a sake-based cocktail whose creation is as magical as spring’s first blooms. Give the complex recipe a try, or use crème de violette in a most classic cocktail, The Aviation. v i o l e t te recipe (makes 1 drink) Creator: Craig Schoettler violet sorbet 3L water, 20g fresh violets, 250g crème de violette, 30g super neutrose, 400g sugar, 5g salt, 10 sheets gelatin passionfruit foam 225g passionfruit juice, 50g sugar, 1.5 sheets gelatin Click to view complete recipe » c l a s s i c recipe (makes 1 drink) Creator: Samuel Kinsey 2 oz gin, 1/2 oz lemon juice, 2 tsp maraschino liqueur, 1/4 oz crème de violette Click to view complete recipe » P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 31 WEATHER PERMITTING by J U D I T H M A R A The only thing less predictable than spring weather is what will be the first offerings found at farmer’s markets across the country. Our advice is to grab what you can. Young, tender vegetables need little work or seasoning and they can be prepared in a myriad of colorful ways. RADISHES “REAL” BABY CARROTS ASPARAGUS Radishes are the first full-sized root Do not believe for one second Easily the most universal spring vegetable to appear at farmer’s the carrots labeled “baby” in the delicacy available at farmer’s markets. markets in spring. Classic radishes supermarket are true young carrots. The most common asparagus are are red but Watermelon radishes They’re not. True baby carrots are green, shown here with their stalks and French Breakfast radishes sell typically long, slim, tender, and very peeled. You’ll also find white asparagus, out faster these days because of how sweet. More and more markets are which are preferred in Europe, and pretty they look and how mild they carrying heirloom varieties that come purple varieties are also becoming taste. They pair perfectly with spring in a rainbow of colors such as white, popular. Wild asparagus are rarely lettuce and herbs in a salad. red, purple and yellow. available at farmer’s markets; you’ll just have to hunt down your own. 32 W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G PEA AND BEET SHOOTS Beet shoots are beets that are only a few days old, yet they already pack a powerful, earthy flavor. Pea shoots can be different young parts of a pea plant. They can be the actual â€œsproutâ€? of a pea plant, or the choice leaves and tendrils picked off the pea vines. All pea shoots have an enchanting, fresh pea flavor. Mix a variety of shoots together with mild mustard vinaigrette for a simple salad. See recipe on page 23. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 33 34 W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G RAMPS The popularity of wild ramps reaches near hysteria in areas where they are foraged. Also known as wild leek and wild garlic, they have a distinct garlic odor with a pungent onion flavor. Use to top pizza and salad, or toss in scrambled eggs. Many chefs serve ramps sautĂŠed, pickled, or charred with grilled meats. BABY BEETS, ASPARAGUS AND CARROTS One easy farm market treat is to gently steam a combination of small spring vegetables, let them chill, toss with a bit of sea salt and serve as cruditĂŠs. Perfect to dip into a warm bagna cauda sauce of olive oil, butter, anchovies and garlic. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 35 Mushrooms might not be the first food that comes to mind when thinking about spring produce. Yet some varieties are as much a harbinger of spring as fiddlehead ferns and strawberries. From morels in the East and Midwest to porcini in the West, it’s mushroom hunting season, whether in your backyard or at the farmer’s market. IN SEASON Morels to Chanterelles by JANET RAUSA FULLER 36 IN SEASON: MORELS TO CHANTERELLES April June August September P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N December 9 10 11 12 November 8 October 6 7 July 4 5 May 3 March February January 1 2 | RECIPES BY JANET RAUSA FULLER 37 It’s spring, the season of earthy deliciousness. To Iliana Regan, a Chicago chef and forager, April brings visions of morel mushrooms. “As soon as there’s any kind of sign of warmer weather, I start dreaming of them,” says Regan, who hosts monthly dinners to showcase her bounty of fungi and other wild foods. In the winter months, coastal California’s cool valleys are able to sustain hardy varieties such as black trumpets, hedgehogs and yellow trumpets. But it is spring’s gentle warmth and moisture that usher in the wild mushroom hunting season across the country. Morels, those fabulously meaty, cone-shaped specimens, come first and in full force, particularly in the Midwest. From there, as spring turns to summer, the foraging fun really begins: porcini out West; pheasant back, wood ear, lobster and yellow feet elsewhere; more hedgehogs and black trumpets in the East; and, later, chanterelles and maitakes. 38 IN SEASON: MORELS TO CHANTERELLES “Then the wheel starts again,” says Connie Green, owner of the Wine Forest, a Napa purveyor of wild “Mushrooms are strange mushrooms and other edibles. things. They have minds of Mushrooms being the mysterious creatures they are, their own,” says Bill Russell, the fun is fleeting – four-week bursts here, six weeks author of “Field Guide to there, and not always in the spot you last found them, or where you expect them to grow. Last fall, the Wild Mushrooms of Regan spotted the unmistakable shaggy lion’s mane mushroom “on Fifth Avenue, right in the middle of Pennsylvania and the Brooklyn, on an oak tree.” (continued on page 42) Mid-Atlantic.” P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY JANET RAUSA FULLER 39 sautéed morels Morels are a perfect companion to ramps, spring peas and pea shoots. After cleaning the morels, sauté in a little brown butter, then add a dash of salt, pepper and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Add blanched peas, and top with fresh pea shoots. 40 IN SEASON: MORELS TO CHANTERELLES P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY JANET RAUSA FULLER 41 pasta with mushrooms (makes 4 servings) 12 ounces bucatini, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 10 ounces beech or other small mushrooms, 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, salt and pepper, 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving Click to view complete recipe » The thrill of the hunt is only part of what enthralls mushroom lovers. The mushroom’s symbiotic relationship with the organisms around it is endlessly fascinating. Mushrooms grow underground from spores, feeding off tree roots while in turn feeding them, until the “fruit”—the part we see—is ready to push forth and disperse its spores. And the wheel starts again. 42 IN SEASON: MORELS TO CHANTERELLES And there is the umami factor, the socalled fifth taste. Mushrooms often are described as meaty and earthy; some taste nutty, even buttery. The chicken of the wood mushroom, some swear, is chicken-flavored. The quirky candy cap mushroom “has a profound maple flavor,” says Green. “It’s magnificent.” wild mushroom tart (makes 4 servings) With any foraged mushrooms, it is pastry necessary to rinse them with water to 1 sheet puff pastry (thawed), 1 egg (beaten) remove dirt and grit before cooking. Store them in a paper bag in the refrigerator; Green likes to spread them out on a sheet pan, under a towel, to dry them out a bit more. filling 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, 4 ounces fresh morels or ½ ounce dried morels (soaked in boiling water, drained and rinsed; reserve ¼ cup soaking liquid), 4 ounces beech, chanterelles, maitake or other mushrooms (slice larger varieties), salt and black pepper, 2 tablespoons minced There are thousands of species of shallots, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs, 2 tablespoons mushrooms, waiting to be found both sherry, 1/2 cup heavy cream, 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk at the market, on the forest floor, and even on Fifth Avenue. Happy hunting. Click to view complete recipe » P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY JANET RAUSA FULLER 43 polenta with mushroom ragout (makes 4 to 6 servings) polenta 2 cups water, 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal, Salt and black pepper ragout 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered or sliced if large, salt, 2 tablespoons minced shallots, 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce, 1/2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 3/4 cup chicken or beef broth, 1 tablespoon heavy cream Click to view complete recipe Âť 44 IN SEASON: MORELS TO CHANTERELLES Wild mushrooms can be found at farmer’s markets, green grocers, online and, of course, in the wild. Some varieties previously found only in the wild are now being cultivated year-round. If you’re new to foraging, go with an expert who can identify edible from the poisonous. Here’s a list of popular and/or prized varieties that chefs love to show off: black trumpet (wild). morels (wild). A common late-summer variety Synonymous with spring and in the Midwest and East, it grows most abundant in the Midwest, in Western coastal forest areas their season starts in April and all winter. can run into June. Dried ones chanterelles (wild). are readily available in markets. Northwest starting in September oyster (wild and cultivated). through nearly the end of the Commonly found in late year. They can be found in the summer and fall, though Midwest and elsewhere in July certain types grow in the and August. spring out East. One of the Prolific in the West and Pacific easily to grow commercially. hedgehog (wild). A winter mushroom in the West, porcini (wild). these grow in the summer and The West enjoys a short stretch fall elsewhere. of these in July, and foragers in lobster (wild). These start around July in most the Midwest and East will find them in later summer. Dried ones are readily available. areas and can continue into October on the West Coast. wood ear (wild). maitake or hen of the woods (wild and cultivated). Clusters of these ear-shaped A chef favorite in late summer Dried ones are common in and fall in the Midwest and East. Asian markets. mushrooms grow widely in the East in early summer. They don’t grow wild west of the Mississippi River, though they are now commercially cultivated. matsutake (wild). Considered a crown jewel of the mushroom world by the Japanese. These are scarce in the States, found only in the Pacific Northwest and Maine starting in September. 45 maitake (hen of the woods) Maitakes have gained increased popularity because of their earthy, chicken flavor. In Japanese, Maitake means â€œdancing mushroom,â€? because the lore goes, whoever found it would dance for joy. 46 P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | RECIPES BY JANET RAUSA FULLER 47 48 HOW WE DID IT HOW WE DID IT Deconstructing a shot from Stephen Hamiltonâ€™s The Restaurant Project by JUDITH MARA favorite dish Pickled Pork Loin Tartine with Whipped Feta and Plums Restaurant Telegraph, Chicago food stylist Carol Smoler prop stylist Paula Walters P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 49 E A R LY S P R I NG 2 0 1 2 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607 | www.stephenhamilton.com represented by schumann & company www.schumannco.com | firstname.lastname@example.org | 312.432.1702 Printed on an Indigo Digital Press at Graphic Arts Studio | www.gasink.com