American Cake Decorating May/June 2014
A magazine for cake designers, sugar artists and pastry professionals, with recipes, tutorials, product reviews and more. May/June 2014 includes a focus on International Influences with ideas and recipes from around the world.
MAY| JUNE 2014 â€˘ U.S. $6.99 Around the World CULTURAL The art of cake, inspired by international influences. INTERPRETATIONS FOREIGN AFFAIRS A recipe for a traditional Portuguese treat, classic English decorating techniques, a contemporary take on strawberries and chocolate and more. PLUS... New products from the New York Restaurant Show and highlights from Europain in Paris. MAY|JUNE 2014 w ew Ne ! l N a v i r ! r l Ar a w v i e r A N val! Arri FEATURES AMERICAN CAKE DECORATING May | June 2014 07 SHOWCASE: FOREIGN AFFAIRS Looking abroad adds new perspective to the growing phenomenon of cake design. 07 CONTENTS 18 C’EST LE SUCRE Highlights from the biennial Paris-based trade show Europain. 18 MAY| JUNE 2014 • U.S. $6.99 Around the World CULTURAL The art of cake, inspired by international influences. INTERPRETATIONS FOREIGN AFFAIRS A recipe for a traditional Portuguese treat, classic English decorating techniques, a contemporary take on strawberries and chocolate and more. PLUS... New products from the New York Restaurant Show and highlights from Europain in Paris. MAY|JUNE 2014 ON THE COVER 07 MAY | JUNE 2014 Indian elephant wedding cake by Heather Barranco Dreamcakes, South Orange, NJ. Photo by Cate Scaglione Photography. americancakedecorating.com 1 IN EVERY ISSUE CONTENTS 06 SHARE YOUR LOVE Dessert professionals provide a glimpse into their current passions. 32 TRENDS Quality and Quantity: With obesity on the rise and sugar and fat being demonized, it may seem like a tough time to be a pastry chef. But as professionals, it’s our role to tell the story of our product in a meaningful way. 48 WORK STATION New introductions from the New York Restaurant Show and other events. 22 FIRST RISE A look at two new stars in the industry. 34 BUSINESS MINDED Start-Up Steps: PartTwo: After you’ve honed your cake skills, tested and retested your recipes, and worked in a real-world commercial kitchen, you’re ready for the next step in opening your own cake business. 50 TUTORIAL: SWEET SLICES A trompe l’oeil dessert that has its roots in Portugal, yet has become particularly associated with Italy. Chocolate salami is an amazingly flexible recipe. 24 IN MY KITCHEN Melissa Coppel with her favorite book. 36 SWEET SCIENCE International Tastes: Once exotic, European items like clotted cream, quark and mascarpone cheese are showing up more frequently in recipes. 52 TUTORIAL: OCEAN PRINCESS Perhaps a mermaid is stretching the definition of “international,” but this pretty fairy-tale inspired figure has roots in nearly every culture. 26 THE MADELEINE QUESTIONNAIRE Petra Bacher 38 BY THE BOOK Imagination and Inspiration: Not a cookbook, or a textbook, but an exploration of the ideas, ingredients and inspirations behind some of the most stylish cakes around. 56 TUTORIAL: 21ST CENTURY LAMBETH This classic British approach to decorating is in the midst of a recent renaissance. 28 PROFILE A Whole New World: When Lisette Baars, a native of Curaçao who currently lives in The Netherlands, wanted to create a Disney® princess cake for her daughter’s birthday, her research launched her into a new world of creativity, as well as a new career. 44 TEST KITCHEN Focus on a New Fondant: A side-by-side comparison of a recently introduced pre-made fondant with some of the industry stalwarts. 62 TUTORIAL: THE CAGED BIRD SINGS This pretty cake combines several design motifs relating to Mexico in a fresh, colorful manner. 66 EL PÁJARO ENJAULADO CANTA Esta linda torta combina varios motivos de diseño relacionados con México de una manera fresca, colorida. 2 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Inspiration Everywhere With ACD Digital Issues With your paid print subscription, you can now access the digital editionâ€” filled with ideas from around the world via dozens of exclusive online-only links. Find out more at americancakedecorating.com Not a subscriber? Go to www.subnow.com/cake to become one. JAN | FEB 2013 americancakedecorating.com 3 Editorial Director Art Director Copy Editor Susan Schultz Nichole Day Diggins Linda Day Dunlap Contributing Writers Junita Bognanni, Kevin M. Case, Amelia Lane, Kathleen Lange, Frederic Loraschi, Dawn Parrot, Anthony Peña, Susana Martinez Zepeda, Kelly Zubal Contributing Artists and Chefs Jacqueline Ash, Lisette Baars, Petra Bacher, Heather Barranco, Ivan Brehm, Faye Cahill , Melissa Coppel, Adriana D’Albora, Mignon Daymond , Mark Ebbels, Alessandra Frisoni, Lori Horne, Mónica Munante Legua, Maude Martel, Christina Ong, Kostas Papathanasiou, Emmanuel Ryon, Valerie Valeriano, Monica Vivinai, Aya Webster Special Thanks President/CEO Associate Publisher Natasha Beh, Roland Cooper, Shelly Kreml, Elizabeth Meany, Amanda Pfeifer Grace McNamara Karen Griffiths Editorial Advisory Board Michelle Bommarito, Prof’l Chef/ Instructor Chef Paul, Chef Rubber John Kraus, Patisserie 46 Beatrice Schneider, Chicago School of Molding Marina Sousa, Just Cake Susana Martínez Zepeda, Casa Susana Marian Franza, Marian Franza Tortas Decorades Artesanales Circulation Manager Subscriptions Peggy Yung 877-467-1759 1 Year: U.S. $28; CAN. $36; FOR. $48 2 Years: U.S. $50; CAN. $66.50; FOR. $48 All subscriptions payable in U.S. funds, drawn on U.S. bank or postal money order. Editorial Director: Please direct all correspondence, photos, and press releases to Susan Schultz, email@example.com or mail to American Cake Decorating, 151 Lafayette Ave. #3 Brooklyn, NY 11238 Subscription Questions & Changes: Send address changes to, New Mailing Address: American Cake Decorating, PO Box 15698, North Hollywood, CA 91615 or e-mail CakeDec@pubservice.com. Please notify us of address changes four to six weeks ahead of time. The post office is under no obligation to forward your magazine. If the postal authorities notify us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. We cannot be responsible for nondelivery. The staff of American Cake Decorating magazine and AIM Communications LLC have reviewed contributions and advertising materials with the understanding that the information is original, accurate, and reliable, but we cannot be held responsible for such content. Please note that some of the techniques may be suitable for private home use, but are not necessarily appropriate for cakes destined for sale. American Cake Decorating (ISSN 1094-8732) is published bimonthly by AIM Communications LLC. 4756 Banning Ave. Suite 206, St. Paul, MN 55110. Periodicals class postage paid at St. Paul MN and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes and subscription correspondence with mailing label to American Cake Decorating, 4756 Banning Ave. Suite 206, St. Paul, MN 55110. Copyright 2014 by AIM Communications LLC, Phone: 651/330-0574, Fax 651/653-4308, service@ americancakedecorating.com., www.americancakedecorating.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. 4 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Dreams What a dream to be in Paris for a week on a hungry ACD readers! Editor Susan Schultz ‘sweet’ tour with ideaand I had the amazing of Paris’ most famous Sweet Social List opportunity to visit some and fantastic pastry and Chef pâtissier at Un Dimanche à Paris, the talented Nicolas Bacheyre, took time out of his busy schedule to share some of his work with us…so of course I had to document the moment! Photo: Erica Marr was centered around culinary shops. The tour twitter.com/ ateliereclair We stopped at L’Atelier de l’Éclair for a quick bite, where Susan and I split a salmon éclair for a light lunch, as well as some mini sweet versions. EDITORIAL the biennial baking and pastry show—Europain – which features incredible vendors and competitions. It was a perfect segue to our International-themed issue! While in Paris we had the opportunity to meet some of the young and spin on the classics. New flavor combinations, techniques and presentations are big on their agendas. amazing pastry chefs and chocolatiers who are putting their own It was amazing to see shops entirely devoted to éclairs (in both sweet and savory flavors), haute couture details on old-fashioned and so much more. It was impossible to pick a favorite stop or facebook.com/HenriLeRouxFrance At the Saint-Germain store of master caramelier Henri Le Roux, manager Céciline Epron graciously welcomed our group and explained the history behind salted caramel. pinterest.com/explore/ french-pastries/ I love searching pins for French pastries—I find so many beautiful ideas, such as this Japaneseinfluenced St. Honoré, from Pâtisserie Plaisir, inspired by cherry blossoms. desserts such as tarte tatin, true sculptures made out of chocolate tasting; each was so unique with what they had to offer. From the made me appreciate what a wonderful industry we are in. macarons at Pierre Hermé to the candies at À La Mère de Famille, it In this issue, we literally take you on a trip around the world – from We hope you enjoy reading about these talented chefs and their Lisette Baars in the Netherlands to Adriana D’Albora from Uruguay. passions. And please keep in mind, we want this magazine to be feature, please get in touch with us! Happy travels! for and about you! If you are or know of a special person or shop to Grace McNamara Publisher Facebook: AmericanCakeDecorating Twitter: CakeDecMagazine Pinterest: acdpins Instagram: acd_cake_decorating_magazine MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 5 SHARE YOUR LOVE The inspirations that drive ACD readers to create... “I was so honored to be part of this wonderful adventure, which we hope will make a difference in the lives of others by teaching them the art of cake decorating.” “This cake was specially baked for a couple who decided to come to Uruguay and get married on Christmas Eve, which is mid-summer here.” I traveled to Nigeria earlier this year to the Mix ‘n’ Bake school in Abuja, where I taught some free classes and helped spread the passion for cake decorating. It was loads of fun and I met many, many wonderful Abuja cakers. It was a wonderful experience. I love the peace that baking brings me. I can spend hours working without even noticing. To be able to do what I love – my passion – and get paid for it, is more rewarding than I could have imagined. Adriana D’Albora started decorating cakes at the age of eight and is largely self-taught. What started as a hobby soon turned into a career, with her cakes requested by soccer players, politicians and business leaders. ADRIANA D’ALBORA Owner, Repostería Mm! Merengue, Punta del Este, Uruguay Jacqueline Ash was born on the “Happy Island” of Aruba and currently lives in The Netherlands, where she runs My Style Cakes, a retail shop and cake design studio in Eindhoven, a city known for its progressive design school. JACQUELINE ASH Owner, My Style Cakes, Eindhoven, The Netherlands 6 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Looking abroad For eign Aff airs SHOWCASE perspective to phenomenon of the g rowin g adds new cake design. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 7 SHOWCASE Monica Munante Legua • CMSA, Tortas Monica, Lima, Peru While planning a vacation trip to New York City, Monica Munante Legua decided to also participate in the annual Société Culinarie Philanthropique salon. As befitting a French-themed institution, she was determined to create an elegant Marie Antoinette cake. The bottom tier is decorated with a lace/rose mold painted with edible gold dust, a floral motif in brush embroidery. The second tier features three layers of intricate pleating, one of them embellished with a lace mold, while the top tier is decorated with a freehand floral pattern. The topper is a replica of Marie Antoinette, wearing a dress decorated with delicate lace, tiny pleats and bows. All of these pieces, including the pale pink roses that decorate the cake base, traveled with Monica from Lima to New York City without incident. The cake was assembled at the show where it won a gold medal as Best Special Occasion Cake. 8 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 SHOWCASE Sherbrooke, Québec, Canada Maude Martel • Pâtisserie La Vitrine, For a project to learn sculptural cakes, Maude Martel created this very well-dressed rabbit. As a designer she delights in details; for example, each button on his coat and pants is a different pattern and texture. She’s particularly proud of the finished shape of the rabbit’s head and of the striped pants. “It was a challenge to have the stripes fit well on the rabbit’s legs,” she explained. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 9 SHOWCASE 10 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 SHOWCASE Alessandra Frisoni • Studio Cake, Fermo, Italy “Most of my wedding cakes start with a small piece of the wedding dress,” Alessandra Frisoni said. “I see the rectangle of fabric in my hand, and from there my mind starts to wander, imagining the combination of colors, but especially the kind of decorations that will embellish the cake.” The trick, she adds, is knowing enough about the couple that the groom’s approach is also integrated into the design—should the approach be vintage, minimalist, hi-tech or high-fashion? “My personal taste is romantic, a bit of the ‘shabby-chic’ style. So pastel colors, roses and other floral motifs will always be my favorite.” Faye Cahill • Faye Cahill Cake Design, Sydney, Australia The original design for this cake was in light ivory and silver, it was the wedding stylist who suggested incorporating a dark blue that was being used in the table runners. The top tier is embossed with an impression mat and pearlized in soft silver. The bottom tier was covered in blue and then airbrushed to a darker shade. The Art Deco pattern on the bottom was inspired by details on the bride’s gown, created with edible beading, piping and sequins made from silver-leaf covered wafer paper. “The edible sequins were a first for me and although time-consuming, they looked great,” said Faye Cahill. “The combination of the pearlized tier and the dark base gave me some headaches with smudges on the blue, but with some decorator’s alcohol and bit of care, it cleaned up beautifully.” MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 11 SHOWCASE Café Pouchkine, Paris, France In Paris, a city known for beautiful pastries, the jewellike creations of Emmanuel Ryon receive special acclaim. Café Pouchkine is headquartered in Russia, and his approach to classic French confections is to give them slightly exotic, embellished twists. For example, the kulich (right), a staple of Russian Easter, is embedded with raisins, but in his hands it is transformed by a shimmering crown of candied fruits. And for his fraisier (above right) – sponge cake, strawberries and cream aren’t enough; instead, he offers a beautiful cage of white chocolate with tantalizing glimpses of the flavors inside. There is also his take on the charlotte – Charlotte Impératrice (above) – that combines berries with a vanilla panna cotta and strawberry gelée, in an embellished white chocolate shell decorated by a ruby sugar gem. Emmanuel Ryon 12 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 SHOWCASE Monica Viviani • Matilda V Cake Design, Verona, Italy At the age of nine, Monica Viviani was collecting cake recipes from her mother’s and grandmother’s magazines. She glued them in a notebook, and almost every week she baked one of the recipes from her book, writing notes and comments about the recipe and the results. School and a “real life” job eventually interfered with her baking experiments, but in 2010 she became interested in cake decorating, spurred on by American television shows. “At that time there were very few cake decorators in Italy. Most people didn’t know anything about it, and no pastry shops offered decorated cakes,” she explained. After some research, she realized that royal icing pressure piping was her favorite technique, an approach that combines delicate beauty, romance, harmony and nostalgia, which is her ideal in a beautiful cake. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 13 SHOWCASE Valeri Valeriano and Christina Ong • Owners, Queen of Hearts Couture Cakes, London, UK Working only in buttercream, Valeri Valeriano and Christina Ong create amazing results. Beadwork piping is one of the innovative techniques they developed, and the beaded basket cake (above)–based on an African Zulu basket–was created for the Cake International show where it won gold in the wedding cake category. The patchwork bead cake, lower right, is another example of this high detailed technique The crochet cake, top right, was inspired by a purple crocheted dress. “We keep exploring different piping techniques,” Valeri said. “We looked at the crochet closely and imitated the strokes. Combined with some lace piping, it turned out to be a beautiful surprise.” Editor’s note: Valeri’s and Christina’s new book on their innovative buttercream techniques will be reviewed in the July/ August issue of American Cake Decorating. 14 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 SHOWCASE Mignon Daymond • Call Me Cake Face Co., Malvern, Australia The starting point for the cake Mignon Daymond calls Cascadia, left, was to create a lot of texture but still keep it delicate. “I wanted to create ruffles so fine, the light would come through,” she describes. “Using wafer paper was an experiment, but they turned out great and were super easy. And I love the contrast between the airy ruffles and the bold metallic.” She went for a different type of texture and contrast for a cake, right, based on the client’s satin and pearl embellished dress. “I’m known for my luster, using cake decorating alcohol helps give it that shine, and again, I think the contrast between the satin luster finish and the ruffly, pearl embellished roses makes for a very pretty cake.” MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 15 SHOWCASE Satori–Die Torte, Vienna, Austria Petra Bacher comes to cake design with a background in all types of applied design—graphics, textiles, packaging and display. To find out more about her and her approach to cake decorating turn to page 26 for her Madeleine interview. Much of her inspiration comes from the rich artistic history of Vienna. One towering, multi-layered design, right, was inspired by the 19th-century paintings of flamboyant Austrian artist Hans Makart, whom some have dubbed the Andy Warhol of his era. It was commissioned for the Makart Exhibition première by the Wien Museum. Floral baskets from the Austrian Biedermeier era were the source for design concepts used for this special event cake, above, while the Viennese Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) architecture and designs of Otto Wagner and Josef Hoffman were the basis for a white-andsilver creation, above right. Photos by Adrian Williams Petra Bacher 16 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 2014 Over 9000 Items in Stock and Priced Right! is CAKEDECO.COM Fancy Cupcake Wrappers Dozen New Styles of Glam Ribbons Call to Request Catalog: 718 545 4600 C’est le Sucre There were a great many treats and treasures to discover at Europain—enough to tempt our group of visitors from the streets of Paris to the aisles of a trade show. Located about an hour north of Paris, the location for the Europain trade show is ideal for those who want to explore the best and latest in pastry ingredients and trends. After a few days of visiting the pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries and other food sources in Paris, a group of six industry professionals, led by ACD publisher Grace McNamara, headed to from show management, more than 75,000 professionals attended during the show, which took place March 8-12. According to the post-show release the five days, with approximately 30% of those visitors being international. In addition to the exhibitor stands and demonstrations, there were also nine international competitions in categories ranging from baking, confectionery arts, coffee, the French national Bocuse d’Or finals and more. At the end of were distributed to local Red Cross chapters. the show, nearly six tons of breads, cakes, pastries and other food products Following are some of the highlights from the show. 18 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE TOP LEFT: Beautifully designed desserts tempted visitors down every aisle, showcasing new ingredients, new techniques and new presentation styles. LEFT AND ABOVE: The mixed-pair teams at the Mondial des Arts Sucrés competition have helped raised awareness of female pastry chefs and chocolatiers. Geatean Fiard, left, competed for the French team, while Lauren Estay was on stage for the U.S. team. SENSES & CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Held for the first time at the exhibition, the Senses & Chocolate Festival was a ground-breaking gathering of professionals. It featured a professional Master Class, chocolate-tasting sessions, the school of cocoa and chocolate tastes and two competitions. Jacques Bellanger, a MOF chocolatier based in Le Mans won the tasting award, while the famed Brussels chocolatier Pierre Marcolini won for his single-origin chocolate bars. THE MONDIAL DES ARTS SUCRÉS To see some of designs from the competition, go to AmericanCakeDecorating.com This is one of the toughest international competitions, based on the number of items that need to be created within a 20hour time frame—bonbons, a plated dessert, a reinvention of a traditional cake, a semi-freddo and one showpiece each in sugar, chocolate and pastillage. During the competition the 16 mixed-gender teams all received voracious encouragement from the stands. The French team of Johanna LePape and Gaetan Fiard came away with the victory, having created works inspired by Notre-Dame de Paris. Japan took second, Singapore took third, while the U.S. won the press award and Canada won for originality. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 19 C’est le Sucre: Products We Loved IBC, a division of Barry Callebaut, introduced Power Flowers™ a new method to color chocolate, fillings and compound chocolate. Small, molded flowers made from tempered cocoa butter and 40% coloring agents can be added to chocolate, and using a coloring chart as a guide, nearly any hue can be achieved by combining the yellow, red, blue and white flowers. Francis Miot made his mark with his jams, awarded the best in France in 1987, followed with three consecutive World Champion titles. But as good as these products were, what captured our attention were the historical treats the company offers. These include Coucougnettes du Vert Galant, Les Prunes de Monsieur, and Les Tétons de la Reine Margot, all of which have slightly racy backstories associated with them. For example, Marguerite de Valois, more commonly known as Queen Margot, was the first wife of King Henri IV and a woman with a reputation for having seduced a great many lovers, particularly by wearing dresses with daring necklines. While Valrhona is primarily known as a chocolate company, its pralines are also highly regarded by pastry professionals. A collection of three new pralines were introduced in late 2013 and due to the complexity of the flavor-profile range, the company developed an explanatory booklet and a sample box set at the show, which won an Intersuc award. This sample set guides you through the three key elements of each praline: Fruit—almond, hazelnut, almond/hazelnut; Flavor—intense caramelized flavor or nutty notes; and Intensity—the caramelization and roasted notes. Arcolor, a Brazilian supplier to the pastry industry, featured its baking and cake decorating products, including powdered SugarLace, which, at least in demonstrations, appeared to be easy to work with and consistent. 20 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Silikomart Professional presented a great many new products at the show and bags filled with recent purchases were on the arms of many attendees. Of the new items was a two-part cake pan, Eclipse, that creates finished products that fully curve all the way through the base. Eclipse can be used at temperatures going from -60°C/76°F to 230°C/446°F, allowing it to move from the blast chiller to the oven. The food-safe silicon material has been especially developed for easy release. Capfruit, a Lyon-based company that specializes in fruit purées, highlighted its no-added-sugar range, including those labeled FruitElite Vintage. These are seasonal offerings based on a single fruit variety grown in particular regions: poire William from the Alps; raspberries from the Massif; and, ranging further afield, Ivory Coast Grenadille passion fruit and Alphonso mango from India. With the motto “a taste of the past with a touch of creativity,” Lucien Georgelin manufactures a broad range of jams, both sweet and savory. The company’s red apricot of Roussillon jam won a gold medal at Général Agricole de Paris. La Fontaine à Confiture started as a glacier making ice creams and sorbets, but chef Eric Ribot soon realized he needed to produce something for the cooler months as well. Today the company produces several milk jams, as well as a line of fruit jams that have grown to include more interesting varietals such as nettles, elderberry and dandelion. Weiss showcased its praline powder, made from a blend of “carefully selected almonds and hazelnuts.” The finely ground powder, which contains sugar, can be added to whipped cream, marshmallows, meringues, cookies and even used in savory dishes. This praline introduction was also an Intersuc winner. ACD MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 21 first RISE FIRST RISE A look at two new stars in the industry. LORI HORNE, Pastry Cook, Villa Christina, Atlanta, GA Originally a fine arts major in college, Lori chose to work as a child protective services investigator for several years. During that time, she “baked to de-stress” while continuing to draw and paint. When searching for a new career path, she realized that no matter how hectic the kitchen or shop gets, it rarely stressed her. “I’ve only been working in the pastry business for a little over a year,” Lori said, “but eventually I want my own specialty cake business. It will give me the opportunity to really bring my fine art training together with my culinary training.” She cites Karen Portaleo as someone whose path she wants to follow, an artist who seamlessly made a successful career transition to cake. Lori credits Amanda Parker and Ramona Oskirka with taking a chance on her as a novice. However, unlike many newcomers to the industry, Lori had a wealth of insight and opportunity thanks to her volunteerism at Pastry Live from its first year. “By volunteering as a competition coordinator, I met and interacted with talented pastry chefs from all over the world, along with great people from companies like Amoretti and the Chicago School of Mold Making. Nothing else would have exposed me to so many differing styles and techniques in so many areas. One of the most important things I learned was to always, always have a plan B. Things won’t always work the way you plan, so have backups and contingencies. It works in showpieces, and it works in life!” Photo by Eric Albright AYA WEBSTER, Pastry Cook, Guard and Grace, Denver CO While Aya Webster proudly calls herself a “cake nerd,” she also is very interested in pursuing chocolate work and is developing the skills that she hopes will allow her to creatively merge these interests. Although she says she’d been playing “culinary catchup” over the past several years—simultaneously working in the industry and attending Johnson & Wales’ Baking and Pastry program—after realizing that life in a cubicle just wasn’t for her, she can be rightfully proud of a career that has advanced from intern, to high-volume production work to a specialty restaurant in just a few short years. “My cake artist idols include Jacqueline Butler and Peggy Porschen—their work is flawless, timeless and breathtaking,” Aya said. Although she’s never taken a class with either, Aya has a trip to England on her to-do list. “In addition to Peggy Porschen, England has an amazing collection of cake artists that I would love to meet and work with.” In her own backyard, Aya also admires Chef Nina Acosta. “She already runs an amazing kitchen and competes with fearless composure,” she explained, “making her someone I genuinely look up to and I am excited to watch where her career will take her.” Although relatively new to the industry, Aya advocates getting out of your own kitchen. “Do yourself a favor: Invest in yourself and network by attending local and out-of-state conferences and competitions. You never know who you will meet and how that will change your life. For instance, I met my coach Chef Cesar Barachina this way. He is a pivotal part of my career, and I would not have made it this far without his passion for pastry, mentoring, guidance and support.” ACD Photo by Lindsay Carole MacDonald First Rise is sponsored by Amoretti 22 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 IN MY KITCHEN Melissa Coppel When Melissa Coppel, a partner at Jean-Marie Auboine in Las Vegas, NV, was asked what her favorite item in any part of the shop was—from ingredients to equipment to packaging—she immediately grabbed Chocolate. A Colombian native who trained as a classic French pastry chef and chocolatier, her favorite book is by a Spanish chocolatier. Talk about international influences. ACD: When did you first discover this book? Melissa Coppel: The book is Chocolate by Ramon Morato. He is a wonderful Spanish pastry chef and chocolatier. Back when I lived in Colombia I used to watch his show on the Gourmet.com channel. I still have this picture in my head of me going “Wahhoo!” with every creation he used to make. I have been following him and his work for at least 12 years now. When this book was first released about five years ago, I purchased it immediately. Why is this book so special and important to you? What does it teach or explain that others don’t? Books are usually about recipes—this one is not. Of course it is full of stunning pictures and has great recipes, but what the author wants is for you to fully understand chocolate and to develop a relationship of respect and sensibility with it. It’s a very technical book for curious people like me, and I enjoyed every bit of it. What was the biggest take-away you got from the book upon first reading? I love his style—simple, clean, modern. I also loved his flavor combinations. They are creative, but not complicated. How do you relate to this book differently now, as you’re further along in your career, than you did when you first read it? Why does it continue to be important to you? It inspired me when I first read it, and it still does. When something is great, it will always be. It never gets old. Photo by Brandy Stoesz. Anything else you’d like to share about this book? Shortly after the book was first published, Ramon Morato was scheduled to teach a class at The Chocolate Academy in Chicago. I wanted to go so badly, but I had a four-month-old daughter at home, so I couldn’t. My good friend did go to the class, and she told him how much I wanted to be there. He wrote a very sweet note that I still keep inside my book. A year later he came back to Chicago, and I was finally able to take his class. It was an amazing experience and I was able to tell him in person how much I admire him. 24 24 americancakedecorating.com americancakedecorating.com JAN MAY | |FEB JUNE 2013 2014 as we proudly present Chef Nicholas Lodge and Chef Lauren Kitchens as they combine their creative talents to bring you “A Modern Marie Antoinette Cake” An exciting opportunity to learn from two of the most sought after insructors in the pastry world as they combine modeling chocolate, gum paste, and fondant to teach you the techniques, tips, and tricks used to create an amazing modern interpretation of this French Queen’s iconic fashion and style. Visit us on-line to view a photograph of this exquisite masterpiece. Monday & Tuesday June 23rd & 24th, 2014 International Sugar Art Collection Classroom Norcross, Georgia 9:30 am to 5:30 pm Hurry, Limited Seating Make your Reservation Today! Our NEW user-friendly website allows you to: • Review the Nicholas Lodge Collection of tools, cutters, veiners, and supplies needed to create your amazing works of sugar art • Shop our “International Bazaar” of unique and hard-to-find cake decorating items from around the world • Enroll in sugar art and cake decorating classes taught by Chef Nicholas Lodge as well as visiting instructors in Studio B Offer exquisite chocolate confections to your customers For more information about our wholesale program contact us at 717 583 0368 receive 15% off your first wholesale order FredericLoraschiChocolate.com like us 1-800-662-8925 770-453-9449 MADELEINE THE MADELEINE QU E S TIONNAIRE Our take on the Proust Questionnaire, in deference to his masterpiece Remembrance of Things Past, where a madeleine dipped in tea evokes waves of sensory memories. PETRA BACHER L ike many other cake designers Petra Bacher wound up creating her first cake–for a friend’s wedding, no less! –because she couldn’t find what she wanted at any shop. Considering that Petra lives in Vienna, Austria, one of the world’s confectionery capitals, her decision to launch a cake business is both surprising—and not. Vienna has a long history of exceptional pastry arts and an equally celebrated history for design and the applied arts, but a decorated cake commissioned for a special occasion is not something most Europeans are all that familiar with. Before starting Sartori–Die Torte in 2011 with master pastry chef Wolfgang Leschanz, Petra had already applied her background in textile and graphic design to another famed Viennese food icon. As art director for Julius Meinl, the gourmet food purveyor (think Fortnum & Mason in London, or Fauchon in Paris), Petra oversaw a major brand renovation—including packaging, interiors, visual Photo by Adrian Williams displays and much more. Now, Petra is shaking up the traditional Viennese approach to dessert, creating one-of-a-kind cakes for design idols and favorite artists including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld and others. What is your favorite taste/flavor? Vanilla from Madagascar. The fragrance and flavor makes heaven move closer! Who would you most like to share a kitchen with? Nick Malgieri. He’s the former executive pastry chef at Windows on the World and has written more than 10 remarkable books on the pastry arts. He has an extraordinary sense for Viennese artists. What’s your favorite dessert? Crème brûlée. This French classic comes in a charmingly simple white cup without any chichi. For me, eating one is like Christmas and birthday together! What has been your best professional experience to date? That the source of my ideas never runs dry. What’s your kitchen philosophy? Simplicity, elegance and to hold on to my childlike curiosity. LEFT: Petra designed this cake as an homage to Jean Paul Gaultier, inspired by details from some of his recent collections. BELOW: Nick Malgieri currently directs the baking program at the Institute of Culinary Education. Photo: Sandy Leonard. 26 americancakedecorating.com MARCH | APRIL 2014 What famous person would you most like to have created a cake for— can be real or fictional, any time period? Marie-Antoine Carême, who was patissier and designer with a background similar to mine. And Karl Lagerfeld, because I truly admire his talent to think big and at the same time to care passionately for every detail. Where did you discover a taste or flavor combination that completely surprised you? Mace in a brides-cake recipe from the circa 1920s handwritten cookbook of my great-grandmother, Marie Sartori. What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? My grandma told me to stay authentic and ignore mainstream. Her credo was “Nothing looks older than the dernier cri.” What’s your secret weapon in the kitchen? Endless patience, precision and, of course, excellent tools. This approach works in the kitchen as well as in my design studio. Who’s been the biggest influence on your career? The world of fashion, architecture and design in the Art Deco era. And my mother’s incredible constructive criticism! Do you have a favorite food resource? Every marketplace in the world. There is no better place to discover combinations of taste and beauty! Where is your culinary dream destination? New York City, where a surprise is waiting around every corner! ACD Mace is the dried reddish covering of the seed of the nutmeg tree. Nutmeg and mace have similar sensory qualities, with nutmeg having a slightly sweeter and mace a more delicate flavor. Mace is often preferred in light dishes for the bright orange, saffron-like hue it imparts. Often considered the first “celebrity chef,” Carême first gained fame in Paris for his centerpieces modeled on temples and ancient ruins. He made these confections, which were sometimes several feet high, entirely out of sugar, marzipan and pastry. Known as the “king of chefs and chef to kings,” Weblinks: sartori-torten.at • sartori.streemfire.com • facebook.com/sartori.torten Photo by Francis Mainard NEW ITEMS FROM 1942- 4 Flower Cutters $ 20.40 1943- 4 Heart Cutters $ 20.40 1321- fan Shaped Bowl Scraper $ 1.80 4203- 15 piece small sculpturing tools $ 4.80 1336- cake Knife $ 16.50 1337- cake Knife $ 26.50 608- revolving turntable $ 9.00 1362- offset spatula $ 7.20 5770- alphabet cutters 1.5” $ 6.00 4700- hi grip disposable bags 12” $8.50 18” $14.50 21” $18.50 7512- non stick rolling pin with thickness bands $ 6.50 1330- fondant cutter/embosser $ 3.80 1301- fondant smoother $ 3.20 Ask for them at your favorite bakery distributor or cake decorating supply shop. MARCH | APRIL 2014 americancakedecorating.com 3700- superflex decorating bags 11.8” $3.05 21.7” $6.30 13.4” $3.30 23.6” $8.30 15.0” $3.80 25.6” $10.30 18.1” $4.80 27.6” $12.30 19.7” $5.30 27 PROFILE As part of her effort to learn, develop her skills and share techniques and trends with her students, Lisette pushes herself to learn all types of approaches and stylesâ€”from trendy fashion designs and ombrĂŠ ruffles to classic sugar flowers and more contemporary approaches. 28 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 A Whole New WORLD By Susan Schultz T The familiar story of wanting to create your first cake for a child’s birthday becomes something different when there’s no “cake culture” to support your efforts. Lisette Baars turned this challenge into a business opportunity. Photos by: Caïnva Isenia and Nayda Fecunda Lisette Baars was determined to create a Disney® princess cake for her daughter’s birthday. She had no prior cake decorating experience and, living in The Netherlands, had few local resources to turn to for assistance. “I looked up everything I could on the Internet,” said Lisette, “seeking examples, how-to information and supplies. When I discovered all the possibilities, it was like a new world opened up for me.” With a background in business administration, Lisette recognized the potential in all those decorating possibilities. “This was in 2005 and, after my daughter’s cake, I started making cakes for family and friends,” she explained. Word spread and soon it was friends of friends, while at the same time taking every opportunity to learn more. “I attended workshops and cake decorating courses whenever and wherever I could,” Lisette said. “Because there weren’t very many classes in the Netherlands, this often meant going to the U.K., but I also went back to Curaçao for an intensive course that was being taught there.” Lisette in the classroom of her retail shop. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 29 PROFILE Lisette’s retail store in Houten, The Netherlands. In addition to making cakes with her new-found skills, Lisette found herself sharing her knowledge by giving workshops around her kitchen table. She soon realized there was a growing interest in cake decorating, and in 2007 opened a web store selling cake decorating supplies and ingredients. Her thirst for knowledge continued. In 2008 she passed the PME Professional Instructor Course in London and soon after also became a certified Wilton instructor. “By 2009, I think cake decorating really started to become popular in The Netherlands and the growth has been very explosive,” Lisette said. “But because decorated cakes are still somewhat of a novelty, people don’t understand how much time and passion it takes to create a beautiful cake!” Gumpaste flowers, shown left, and shoes, below left, are some of the additional skills Lisette has worked hard to gain proficiency in, both for her own satisfaction and in order to pass that knowledge on to students. To address this growth, Lisette, with the support of her husband, decided to open a “bricks and mortar” shop, where she could schedule classes and sell an assortment of products related to the classwork. Her husband manages the web store and handles all the financial administration for the entire business. Lisette takes care of scheduling and arranging the coursework and teaching, as well as booking other instructors such as Kathleen Lange, who was there last October with a version of her Lange/Lambeth Boot Camp. She takes care of all the marketing. “Looking back, I wish I would have gotten my husband involved sooner,” Lisette said. “He’s so good at that. I don’t have to worry about that aspect of the business anymore, and I just focus on developing and marketing the courses. I realize every small business owner says this, but it’s hard work, running your own business. It’s sometimes difficult to find a balance between the work that has to be done, the work you want to do, and all the rest of your life!” 30 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Bringing her husband into the business has helped Lisette better realize that balance, because, even though they’re both now involved, she now has the time to start developing her own courses. “I have so many ideas and now I have the opportunity to really work on them, instead of just thinking about them!” For now, the PME classes are still her most popular offering, and she’s proud of both her accomplishments and that of her students. In June 2013 she was honored to receive the International Award of Excellence from the PME School of Cake Decorating. “To succeed in this business it’s very important to believe in yourself. Through perseverance and discipline, my goal is to continually keep improving my skills.” ACD ABOVE: Students work on the chapel design in royal icing, a PME advanced course led by Lisette, whose own finished chapel was shown on page 28. RIGHT: After less than 10 years in the business, Lisette was thrilled to receive PME’s Award of Excellence. Weblinks: liescakeshop.nl Facebook: Lies Cakeshop/Cakefantasie Twitter: LiesCakeshop MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 31 Quality and Quantity By Frederic Loraschi with Jacklyn Van Arsdale, R.D., L.D.N. TRENDS A For the first time in nearly two decades the Food and Drug Administration is proposing changes to nutrition labels required for all packaged retail foods, as part of an effort to fight obesity. But, as food industry professionals, what is our role? s more and more Americans lose their battle against obesity, the FDA has proposed changes to the nutrition labels that include adjusting the portion sizes, along with putting the calorie count and any added sugar information in larger, bolder type. It’s a positive step, but there are so many other aspects of healthful eating to be considered. So I asked Jacklyn Van Arsdale, a registered dietitian at the Penn State weight loss program, to assist me with this article. I admit, I have a personal stake in this issue and with Jacklyn—she is a member of a great team of medical professionals who have been instrumental in helping me win my fight against obesity. As of this writing, I have lost 132 pounds and have become much healthier. And take my word for it I am still eating chocolate every single day! In discussing the proposed food label changes, Jacklyn and I came to the agreement that while the new Food and Drug Administration is welcome, it’s not enough on its own to be effective. Nutrition labels will remain too confusing and somewhat misleading for consumers to understand. And, unfortunately, many food manufacturers take advantage of this confusion—using “healthier” verbiage on their packaging while falling short of qualifying as a truly healthy choice. However, it is important to remember that healthy food can also become unhealthy if the consumer doesn’t pay attention to the correct portion size. As an example, quinoa, considered a power food rich in protein, can quickly contribute a lot of calories, leading to weight gain if there is no exercise involved. Which brought Jacklyn and me to a core issue—have we forgotten how to eat? Of course, there will always be junk food versus healthier choices, but as chefs, our role should be to promote and introduce our customers to the art of eating. I am not saying that from time to time we can’t have some French fries with melted cheese and bacon bits, but keep these moments under control and don’t make them a daily habit. This approach is valid because in many countries around the world where food has a very important place in culture, the obesity levels are not growing as fast as it is in the United States. We also should be responsible in telling the story of our product, whether it is a main course at a restaurant, or cake, bread or chocolate in a pastry shop. What types of ingredients were used? Where did these ingredients come from? This is the type of information that our customers deserve. We have the responsibility to be open and transparent with these details. It separates our work from those of the big food companies and gives each of our unique creations a history. ACD A Healthier Approach to Food I believe consumers should be more mindful of what they are eating and embrace the experience of savoring great food. Enjoying good food shouldn’t evoke guilt. Food quality should be the focus, with concern only being raised when too much food is consumed. 32 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 After learning his craft in France and working for some of the continent’s most renowned chefs, Frederic Loraschi came to the U.S. landing posts at The RitzCarlton Laguna Niguel, The Ritz-Carlton Boston and the Hotel Hershey as executive pastry chef. In 2005 he launched Frederic Loraschi Chocolate and in 2010 won the Best Tasting award at the U.S. finals for the World Chocolate Masters competition. Weblinks: fredericloraschichocolate.com Facebook: Chocolat-Frederic-Loraschi-LLC Notes on Nutrition A Penn State University College of Health and Human Development study showed that the more food you’re served the more you’ll eat. Between 1977 and 1996, food portion sizes have increased, gradually getting larger because of consumers wanting “value sizing”—getting more food for the dollar. Data shows that over the past 20 years soft drinks have increased in size by 52% and snack packages, whether they are potato chips, pretzels or crackers, are 60% larger. According to Jacklyn, in order to control weight, the portion sizes we should aim for at one meal are the following: Fish or meat: 3 ounces (85g) cooked, 4 ounces (110g) uncooked (bread, pasta, rice) 2 ounces (55g) Jacklyn Van Arsdale, R.D., L.D.N. earned her bachelor of science in Nutrition and Dietetics from Messiah College and completed her dietetic internship training through the Penn State Hershey Medical Center. As a registered dietitian, she provides nutrition education and counseling to help patients develop healthy lifestyle habits and a balanced relationship with food. Grains: Vegetables 1 cup of vegetables per meal (more to (non-starchy): satisfy your hunger) Dairy: 1 cup of milk or 1 ounce of cheese If you are still hungry, you can add a cup of fresh fruit, or one banana. Obviously, the listed portions above may vary depending on your physical activity, height and body size. For more information go to: www.supertracker.usda.gov Satin Ice is The Professional’s Choice for Premium Quality, Creativity and Profitability. “ My company would not be where it is today without having the privilege of working with Satin Ice” RON BEN-ISRAEL, RON BEN-ISRAEL CAKES, NEW YORK www.satinice.com MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 33 BUSINESS MINDED START-UP STEPS: Part Two By Kelly Zubal To recap: In Part One, Kelly Zubal suggested that you practice your cake skills, test and retest your recipes, get some commercial kitchen experience and write a fabulous business plan. Ready for the next step? Y ou’ve finished that business plan, right? No? Go on and finish it. I’ll be right here when you’re done. Capital Decisions Every new business needs start-up capital. The amount needed depends on key factors including: your operation’s location, equipment requirements, and what expenses are required before even opening the doors. Everyone’s situation differs. From the moment I decided I wanted to run my own custom cake company, I knew that one day I wanted my own production kitchen and client meeting space. But I didn’t want to jump into such a large and expensive endeavor from the start. I wanted to get my feet wet, build up clientele, further my skills and really decide if I could (or should) take such , a giant leap professionally and financially. So I decided to start small and work my way up. It was the smartest decision I made. I started my business with $5,000. Of that, $3,500 was loaned to me from a friend and a family member and the rest was from my savings. And before you ask, yes, they asked to review my business plan! Half of that capital was used to obtain my business license, liability insurance, website hosting, marketing materials, baking equipment and baking supplies. I kept the rest as a reserve to cover my overhead and any incidental expenses for the first few months. I was able to start with so little capital because I first operated out of the non-profit incubator kitchen La Cocina. I had to apply with my trusty business plan to get accepted into their program and go through an interview process. I rented storage space and their kitchen facilities by the hour. I had all the expensive equipment at my disposal and only had to pay to use the kitchen when I had orders to fill. I was fortunate to be in production space that offered technical assistance and business advice when I needed it. As a new business owner I think it’s really important to ask experts for help when you can. At the end of the day, the way we run our business is our decision, so make it an informed one. If you are like me and aren’t quite ready to invest in your own production space, you have a few options to get started. Your city might have a similar non-profit or co-op commercial kitchen you can rent. I know of a few food businesses that use restaurant kitchens during hours when the restaurant is closed or rent out kitchens in community centers or churches. I’d advise making sure any kitchen you are thinking of renting has the proper operational or permits from the city and health department. Many states now have cottage food laws, which include types of businesses that make baked goods. This allows you to bake and operate your cake business out of your home. So call around and dig deep on the Internet to see what the guidelines and restrictions for your area are—keeping in mind these may vary by county or even by city. If you have a hard time finding answers, don’t be afraid to contact other food businesses or bakeries to see if they’ll share that info with you. Another thing, take a food safety certification class! It’s required in most states, but even if it’s not mandatory in your state, I strongly urge you to do so. Mishandling of food can make people sick, and sickening a customer from one of your cakes is not worth it. Get educated. Get certified. Be food safe. Start-up Options If you have a hard time finding answers don’t be afraid to contact other food businesses bakeries to see if they’ll share that info with you. 34 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 I decided to start small and work my way up. It was the smartest decision I made. Beginning Marketing To get started, I reached out to hotels, wedding planners and caterers. At each meeting I brought my portfolio and booklet filled with my company info (such as pricing and menus) and samples of my cake flavors. A lot of the contacts I made from the beginning are still some of my largest clients today. For my website, I used a Yahoo template that was easy to use as well as visually clean and simple. For other materials, I pulled in friends for help. One friend is an amazing graphic designer who helped design my logo, business cards and other materials. Another friend who works in PR helped me with my press kit. How did I pay them? You’d be amazed what people will do for beautiful, delicious cakes. If they don’t want it for themselves, offer a cake for a birthday party or an office event. Go on, pimp out your cake! These were my initial steps to establish my own business. Next issue I’ll address my experience growing the business and building out my own production space. ACD Kelly Zubal was born and raised in Honolulu, HI, and moved to San Francisco, CA, in 1998 to study photography at the Academy of Art University. After discovering a passion for cake decorating, Kelly planned and studied for three years before opening Inticing Creations, her custom wedding and celebration cake company in 2008. Soon recognized for her unique and creative take on cake design, Kelly’s cakes have been featured in Martha StewartWeddings, Brides, Style Me Pretty and on TLC. Weblinks: inticingcreations.com Facebook: InticingCreations Instagram: inticingcreations Fast. Easy. Elegant. Want something special to impress your customers? Something that sets your cakes apart? Choose CakePlay’s iridescent isomalt nibs, and make your creations sparkle in minutes! Our shimmering colors let you quickly create beautiful leaves, branches, letters, pearls, gems and more. Use CakePlay’s new metallic shades - gold, silver, bronze and pearl - to add gorgeous luster, dimension and shine to any cake. Give your cakes something special with CakePlay’s top-quality nibs and accessories. We make it easy and fun! www.cakeplay.com MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 35 SWEET SCIENCE International Tastes Although similar to ingredients commonly used in the U.S., the flavor and fat content of European dairy products are subtly different. Hereâ€™s a primer on some popular optionsâ€”and how using these unusual products will lead to delicious results. BY JUNITA BOGNANNI 36 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Specialty Creams A rich assortment of European specialty creams span the spectrum between the American basics of heavy cream and butter. Dairy products such as clotted cream, crème fraiche, double cream and German creams (e.g. saure sahne and schmand) make fantastic fillings, toppings and flavorings for cakes, tarts and pastries. Clotted cream is a rich, yellow-tinted cream commonly used as a spread for scones in Great Britain. Made by heating unpasteurized milk until a semisolid layer forms on the surface, clotted cream has the consistency of soft butter and a 55-60% fat content. Double cream, another British invention, is slightly lower in fat, at 48%. More similar in consistency to heavy cream, double cream can withstand boiling, whipping and freezing. Double cream is a decadent substitute in panna cotta or semifreddo recipes. Crème fraîche is a cultured dairy product similar to sour cream, though not as tangy, nor as thick. Popular in France, crème fraîche literally translates “fresh cream.” It’s easy to make at home—simply add a small amount of yogurt or buttermilk to heavy cream and let the mixture sit at room temperature for 12-24 hours or until thick. Crème fraîche has a fat content between 30-40% and, unlike sour cream, will not curdle when heated. When making caramel sauce, use creme fraiche rather than heavy cream to add a slight tang. Hailing from Germany, saure sahne is similar in consistency to sour cream, but with less fat—between 10-15%. Saure sahne extra contains just a bit more fat—18%— while schmand weighs in the heaviest with a fat content of 20-30%. All of the German creams are comparable to sour cream in thickness, but the fat content varies widely. For example the high fat schmand would work best as a replacement for heavy cream, while you could swap in saure sahne extra for sour cream. Kefir is another ancient food item enjoying a renaissance. Similar to yogurt in that it’s a cultured milk product, kefir is a bit tangier and has a slight effervescence. Experiment with kefir as you would to incorporate yogurt into a recipe. Cheese Most European countries have long histories of cheese making embedded in their cultures. Luckily for the baker, this flavor to cakes, pastries and other baked goods. experimentation yielded many rich products that bring great Italians have a special knack for incorporating cheeses into content (60-75%), is an essential ingredient in the classic Italian dessert tiramisu. It also tastes great in cheesecakes dessert. Mascarpone, a thick, creamy cheese with a high fat and custards. Ricotta, another Italian product, is a more substantial soft cheese made from liquid whey. Whole milk ricotta contains 13% fat, while ricotta made from low-fat milk contains about 8%. Ricotta’s high moisture content lightens cake batters, quick breads, and cheesecakes. Reduce the or be sure to drain the cheese thoroughly before mixing it in. other liquid ingredients in your recipe to account for the ricotta, Quark is a soft cheese popular in Germany and Eastern lower in fat and not as tangy, containing between 0.3% and 11% fat. This velvety, bright cheese is a great low-calorie recipe or simply enjoy it on its own with fresh berries. Europe. Although similar in texture to sour cream, quark is substitute for cream cheese. Try using quark in a cheesecake The next time you’re stumped for a new dessert idea, why not check out what the international section has to offer? Let your mind wander and see what sparks your imagination. Whether Yogurt it’s an Italian cheese or a Lebanese yogurt, don’t be afraid world of new flavor! ACD An ancient food that originated in the Middle East several millennia ago, yogurt is simply fermented milk. Yogurt’s fat content is determined by the milk from which it’s made. Yogurt made from whole milk contains at least 3.5% fat; “lowfat” is made from low-fat milk and contains between 2% and 0.5% fat, whereas non-fat yogurt is made from skim milk and contains less than 0.5% fat. The currently popular variety known as Greek yogurt is just as ancient. In Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine it is common to strain the liquid whey from yogurt, concentrating the amount of protein and reducing the sugar. This thick, healthier version can be used in baking the same way you’d use standard yogurt; it also makes an excellent substitute for fatty oils in cakes. to try out a novel ingredient. You may find that it opens up a Junita Bognanni is a freelance writer, recipe tester and food stylist. For the next year she's happily based in Rome. Follow her hunt for the best gelato and other Italian food adventures on stackofcookbooks.com or on Twitter @junita. MAY | JUNE 2013 americancakedecorating.com 37 BY THE BOOK 38 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 INSPIRATION By Kevin M. Case Imagination & Bonnae Gokson made a name for herself working with luxury brands such as Chanel and the Ritz-Carlton among others, and now her Hong Kong restaurants and cafés attract a similar fashionable crowd. Her inventive cakes featured at Ms B’s Cakery and in her book Butterflies and All Things Sweet are merely the starting point for an exploration of inspiration and artistic creativity. Butterflies and All Things Sweet by Bonnae Gokson, with photographs by A. Chester Ong and Petrina Tinslay © Goff Books, 2013, 978-1-939621-01-6 ◀ LEFT: Marie Antoinette’s Crave and Le Louis intertwine history and whimsy. Marie Antoinette’s Crave was created first, a fantastical design of pistachio chiffon, rose-petal jam, whipped cream and raspberries, decorated in macarons, dragées and topped with a bouffant tower of pink cotton candy. Bonnae writes that Ms B’s Cakery opened on the same day Prince William and Kate Middleton married. She had the thought that Marie was lonely, so she came up with a prince. Le Louis is chocolate chiffon, blackberries, blueberries and whipped cream decorated with marshmallows and dragées and a cloud of blue cotton candy. How can you not enjoy a bit of old history, glee and a new tradition highlighting the way these cakes were used? MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 39 BY THE BOOK French Lace is red velvet and French vanilla marble cake with rose-petal and berry jam filling embellished with lace sugar work that could compare with that to be found in the world’s finest millineries. In fact, given Bonnae’s background in the fashion industry, I am sure some exquisite lace was used for a prototype. These silicone-molded appliqués are executed with the precision of a great fashion house. As a person who appreciates fine tailoring, I got a sense of the way these pieces were made. I truly enjoyed the way the artists engineered the appliqué, much like the finest couturiers constructed their works. F irst, this is not a book for recipes or one to turn to for detailed explanations. However, it does give the art admirer, baking novice or experienced professional an intimate view of luxury in the form of pastry. It is a visual retrospective of Bonnae’s life and the many incarnations of her career. She writes in her opening statement: “I’m fortunate to have had a lifetime of exposure to beautiful things all over the globe, from fine art to high fashion, and now cakes are the medium in which I express all that I’ve absorbed and all that’s important to me.” As for the title, she explains that in the opening pages as well. “Butterflies amaze me—their beauty, their variety, their freedom. Like dreams, they’re all the more precious because they don’t have a long life. The cakes I create for my customers are like butterflies. Here and then gone. Devoured in a few sweet bites … Each cake is a piece of joy, a moment of celebration.” 40 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Hydrangeas featured on a red velvet beet root cake covered in pale green fondant, these familiar flowers say “home” to me. Living on Cape Cod, there is an abundance of different types of hydrangeas— from wild antique white, to the classic green-blue (pictured on the cake) to a “strawberry shortcake” breed that has wisps of pink and cream billowing up into a cone effect, not to mention the lace hydrangea that is wispy and open, much like embroidered lace doilies. This flower decoration is an essential component of any garden party themed design in my region. www.lifeisahobby.com © 2014 The Testor Corporation The Icing On The Cake Testors® can help bring any of your baked creations to life by making them look as exquisite as they taste. With our easy-to-use AZTEK® airbrush system, you have the ability to apply color to get just the right ﬁnish. The results are very sweet and sure to please! Available nationwide at select craft stores, art supply retailers and online merchants. MAKE LIFE A HOBBY™ Testors_Cupcake_Ad_FINAL_7.125x5.indd 1 1/15/14 9:55 AM MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 41 BY THE BOOK Butterflies are the decoration theme in some examples from Ms B’s Cakery, but it is also a window for the viewer to see the metamorphosis of Bonnae’s life and career. This book expresses her ability to relay beauty from art, high fashion and other inspirations into pastry. The “Contents” spread features photos of her cakes, along with a short description of each, a visual appetizer of what is to come. However, these cakes are part of chapters that aim to tell a larger story. Each chapter is based on a theme, a color, a person or a concept that inspired her, and as you page through you see how those inspirations were transformed into cakes. The beautiful images along with the words, phrases and short anecdotes create compositions of texture, color, memory and insight meant to inspire and evoke the viewer’s emotion. The closing pages include a short “coffee and cake” conversation with Bonnae that help illustrate how seriously she takes the business of cake— from the quality of the ingredients to how her creations are presented and served. Her list of “thank yous” includes the many staff members who dedicate hours and endless energies to her “visions” to execute cakes in a manner true to her thoughts. This level of graciousness, I believe, is often overlooked in publications by celebrity chefs. With this book, time is not of the essence when viewing; the discerning eye that created it wanted you to savor each page. I am not able to put my finger on one particular component of this book as my favorite, as each page and section had its own wonder for me. Whether it is a design I may have already done, a practice board I replicated after seeing this book, or even a thought I can put into my library of ideas to use in the future, this book captivated my senses and made my interests soar. ACD ABOVE: Pink Revolution is a crème fraîche butter cake with a strawberry jam filling. Decorated with pink and gold butterflies and pink ribbons, this cake was originally designed as a fundraiser for the Hong Kong Cancer Fund and has since become an icon of hope for a cure. See more of Kevin’s favorite cakes from Butterflies and All Things Sweet online at AmericanCakeDecorating.com LEFT: Death by Chocolate is a chocolate champagne truffle cake covered in chocolate ganache with a dramatic splash of berry sauce accentuating the Swarovski diamante skull topper. Wrapped in glittering skull ribbon, it’s a cake I can see worthy of the late Alexander McQueen’s approval—it’s edgy yet sophisticated. 42 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 LEFT: Champagne, Chocolate & Diamonds are individual cakes comprised of vanilla chiffon, white chocolate mousse and a Dom Perignon champagne jelly finished with rhinestone baubles. “I wanted to create something in chocolate … something Marilyn Monroe would love,” writes Bonnae about these desserts. Honestly, these cakes caught my eye because of my love for simple, shiny objects! And who after all doesn’t like a fine bottle of bubbly? Kevin M. Case is currently the executive chef at The Captain’s House Inn, Chatham, MA, a four-diamond property on Cape Cod. The inn’s high tea service means he is regularly creating a menu of scones, shortbreads, truffles, cookies, tea cakes and more. The inn also features an elopement package that includes his customized miniature wedding cakes. Prior to the Captain’s House, Kevin worked in the pastry department of the Wequasette Inn, also on Cape Cod. He also has a private cake design business, Kevinly Cakes. What’s your secret ingredient? When you make cakes, just add flour.TM Retail. Commercial. Wholesale. ® www.flourconfections.com (888)443-CAKE (2253) MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 43 TEST KITCHEN Focus on a NEW Fondant While some cake designers prefer to make their own fondant, the availability of pre-made fondant is one of the key factors in the amazing growth of the custom-cake industry over the past decade. Dawn Parrott tries out a fondant from ifiGourmet, a recent addition to the market. 44 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 felt the best way to analyze a new fondant was to compare it with several other widely available fondants sold in the United States. So my field array includes Satin Ice, Fondarific, Fondx and, of course, ifiGourmet. My first test was taste. In this area Fondarific, whose white fondant is Cinnamon Bun flavored, was the definite winner. The other three have similar tastes, with Satin Ice having a more distinct vanilla taste, while Fondx and ifiGourmet are practically indistinguishable from each other. Next, I colored each of the fondants red, because this is always one of the most problematic colorings. All fondants did quite well, with Fondarific and ifiGourmet ending up being the softest and stickiest. I also tested each fondant by rolling balls. I was looking for them to be smooth and with no crack lines. Both the two softest fondants, Fondarific and ifiGourmet, were perfect. I would also recommend these two for sculpting. Fondx also did very well, while Satin Ice seemed to be the one that dried the fastest. I should note, however, that I did this test in Houston, TX, during relatively humid conditions. Now, the big test: covering a cake. Or in this case, a Styrofoam® dummy. Each of the fondants rolled very well. However, the Fondarific was a little problematic as it was very soft and tore easily. Sometimes that’s a good thing, because it’s easier to repair! The Satin Ice covered well, looked great, but dried with a little bit of creasing, which is sometimes the case based on humidity (I live in Houston, TX). What works for me in this situation is to add gumpaste to the fondant; which seems to prevent creases from forming. The Fondx rolled well, covered well and dried smooth. I The ifiGourmet fondant rolled out fantastically. The main difference between this and the fondants I’m more familiar with is that this fondant is very “spongy.” It likes to spring back a little, and in that way I’m reminded of marshmallow fondant. That said, it covered wonderfully on a dummy and on a real cake. I took it to use with a student of mine, and she loved it, saying it was very easy to work with. As with the Fondarific, it is much softer and is easy to repair if you rip it. Finally, I tested for its use in cut shapes. I rolled out sections of each fondant to the same even thickness, used some cutters and set the pieces aside to dry. I also did this in 50/50 (half fondant, half gumpaste) as a comparison. The Satin Ice and Fondx pieces dried overnight, while the Fondarific and ifiGourmet pieces were still soft. After a few days, both still remained soft, even the 50/50 pieces. So, I put them in my dehydrator for six hours and they still didn’t have the firmness I’d require for a decorating piece. In terms of pricing (using the retail, 10lb bucket price as seen on Amazon), ifiGourmet is right in line with Fondx and Satin Ice, with all three products in the mid-to-low $30 range. Based on these tests, while I would not recommend this product for cut-piece work, it’s an excellent choice for more general cake covering, particularly for new cake decorators due to its ease of use. It seems to be the most forgiving to work with and allows plenty of work time when covering a cake. If you like to sculpt and make figurines, this would also be a good choice due to its soft quality, which allows for time to work with it and shape it without worrying about it drying out in the process. ACD The cake designs shown in this article were supplied by ifiGourmet. Dawn Parrott, CWPC, is an award-winning cake designer based in Houston,TX. In September 2013 she won 1st place runner-up at the Tulsa Oklahoma State Sugar Art Show (OSSAS) in the Wedding division. Dawn’s specialty is in the piping area, and she is an accomplished instructor, teaching throughout Texas and other states. In August she will be teaching at ICES 2014 in Albuquerque, NM, using her favorite medium, royal icing. Students in her session will learn various piping techniques in royal icing, including brush embroidery and different styles of stringwork. 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When you “follow” us, you know that it is so much more than “just a cake.” To volunteer or for more information, please visit www.icingsmiles.org WORK STATION New products from the New York Restaurant Show and other events. RaveReviewSpirits.com A line of spirits produced specifically for cooking, Rave Review Original Culinary Spirits™ are made from quality natural ingredients specifically to provide a well-balanced taste when using in the kitchen. The line of beverages, which contain 30% alcohol by volume, are heat stable, and each has approximately 25% less sugar than its standard, liquor-store counterpart. Currently available in hops, blended bourbon, rum and brandy. Spirited Assortment Flexible Decor IcingImages.com DECOgel™ is a gelatin-based product that can be melted and poured into molds, applied to icing sheets or used as a freehand decoration. 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Modern Gothic MichaelAram.com Combining the intricate detail of lush foliage with the seductive exoticism of the rare black orchid, this new collection from Michael Aram sets hammered metal against blackened nickel. The result is a cake stand that will add smoldering ambience to any display. 48 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 PastryLive.com Pastry Live August 24-26, 2014 in Atlanta, GA Come make history! Be part of the action with Pastry Live’s audience awards and chocolate tastings in which you get to vote. Come learn, be inspired and meet some new friends. Your old ones are already here. Join us for an amazing three days! August 24-26, 2014 Atlanta, GA 2013 Best Overall/Most Excellent Showpiece “The Hurwitz Hypnotist” Best Chocolate Showpiece: Team Captain Maura Metheny, with Dan Forgey, of Norman Love Chocolates, Fort Myers, FL JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2014 americancakedecorating.com visit www.PastryLive.com 49 TUTORIAL SWEET The heart and soul of Olympic Provisions is salami and cured meats. It had only been open a few months when Amelia Lane started there in 2010; at the time, there was not the need for a full-time pastry chef. With “provisions” in the shop’s name, she thought about ways she could cater to the wholesale and deli-counter revenue. Chocolate salami is popular in Italy and Portugal, and she believed it could become a signature item for Olympic Provisions. INGREDIENTS: Yield 48-50 5-oz logs 1 lb butter 4 lbs 70% chocolate 32 egg yolks 7 c sugar 2 c coffee* 1 c cocoa powder 1/2 c grappa* zest of 2 oranges zest of 2 lemons 4 c pistachios 4 c hazelnuts, toasted and chopped 2 c almond slivers, toasted 4 c almond-anise biscotti (or potato chips or other cookie crumbs)* 4 c of candied orange peels* Slices Photo by David Reamer *Amelia notes: This is a very flexible recipe.You can substitute wine for the coffee or brandy for the grappa. Switch out the nuts or the flavor of the biscotti or other crumbs, add a different type of dried or candied fruit, etc. Adjust according to your tastes. FOR PRODUCTION: Double boiler Spatula Large mixing bowl Hotel pan or sheet tray lined with parchment Confectioners’ sugar Cutting board Sheet tray Wax paper or deli paper String or tape Scale Bench knife Measuring cup Melt butter and chocolate over a double boiler. 1. 2. Blend yolks and sugar in a 20qt mixing bowl. ▶ 50 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 3. Add the zest, coffee, cocoa and grappa to yolk mixture. Scrape the bowl and continue to blend 4. ▶ Add the chocolate mixture then add the nuts, biscotti, and candied orange peels. 5. 7. Divide into 5 oz. portions and then roll into logs and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Amelia notes: Turn the mixture out onto a parchment lined pan. Cover with plastic and chill until firm enough to roll into logs. 6. ▶ For ming the logs can be tricky. Having some experience with clay, I would say it’s similar to wedging clay or maybe like kneading dough. It’s also helpful for the logs to be chilled fully before wrapping so they don’t get misshapen during the wrapping process. Chill if needed before wrapping the individual logs in paper or plastic wrap. 8. Amelia notes: For long-ter m storage keep in the freezer in an air tight container. Keep refrigerated until just before serving. To serve, slice thin and plate with marmalade and shortbread for a visual take on sausage, crackers and mustard. ACD 9. ▶ Before becoming a pastry chef, Amelia Lane worked as a dishwasher, prep cook, line cook, butcher, sous chef and baker’s assistant. After 10-plus years in the kitchen, she realized the sweet spot of her passion and attended the CIA to make it official. After graduating she briefly worked at Pastiche Fine Desserts in Providence, RI, and then moved to Portland, OR. Since living in Portland, she’s worked at Pix Patisserie, Meriwether’s Restaurant, Olympic Provisions and Little Bird Bistro and consulted for Bunk Sandwiches, Pie Spot, Bethany’s Table and Perfect Bake. In 2011 she founded the Portland Pastry Chefs Association to foster support, camaraderie, trust and friendships in the industry. To date, the PPCA is now 75 members strong and growing rapidly. Weblinks: portlandpastrychefs.org facebook.com/portlandpastrychefsassociation twitter: @PDXpastrychefs Photo by David Reamer MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 51 Ocean Princess TUTORIAL There are myths and stories from every continent and nearly every culture about beautiful, magical creatures that live under the waters. Anthony Pe単a shares his technique for creating a classic, fairy-taleinspired version. 52 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 1. For the body, start with a ball of fleshcolored gumpaste, approximately the size of an orange. Shape this into a sausage, and then, at one end, thin and taper it to give shape to the tail. At the other end, begin to shape the torso—neck, shoulders, bust and waist. 2. With a toothpick, make a hollow at the neck, to help secure the head later. Break a toothpick in half and insert one piece into each shoulder, leaving just ½" or so to help support the arm. 3. Using a modeling tool, define the waist by marking a “V”. Below this, mark the gumpaste with the #12 tip to create a scale pattern. FOR DESIGN AND ASSEMBLY: Ivory food color White food color Brown food color Pink food color 10/0 liner paintbrush Flesh tone petal dust White luster dust Clear alcohol Corn syrup #12 tip Woman’s head mold. Anthony notes: I used one from Fiesta Cakes. Toothpicks 12 oz light brown gumpaste 1 lb flesh tone gumpaste Flat modeling tool Ball tool X-Acto knife Flat paintbrush Water pen Clay gun, fitted with multi-hole disc Royal icing 4. For the tail fins, take a piece of the fleshcolored gumpaste, approximately the size of a quail egg, and divide in half. Shape one half into the form of an almond, flatten with your thumbs, and with a modeling tool, mark straight lines. Repeat with the other half. Attach these two fins to the end of the tail. 5. For the sea shell top, take a piece of the flesh-colored gumpaste, approximately the size of a quail egg, and divide in half. Shape one half into the shape of a teardrop, flatten slightly with your thumbs, and use the modeling tool to etch lines. Repeat with the other half. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 53 Dust the cavity of the face mold with cornstarch, then press a small ball of flesh-colored gumpaste into the mold, making sure you fill all the cavities. Let sit for a minute and then carefully remove from the mold. Insert a toothpick into the neck to support the head while painting. TUTORIAL 6. 7. Use a liner brush to paint the eye area with white food coloring. Set aside to dry. 8. With a liner brush, make a small circle with light green food coloring on top of the white. Then, paint the lips with light pink food coloring. Set aside to dry. 9. On top of the green, make a very small circle with light brown food coloring. Set aside to dry. Paint final details such as eyebrows and eyelashes with light brown using a 10/0 lĂner paintbrush Add a highlight to the eye with a tiny touch of white and paint the cheeks with fleshtone petal dust. 10. 11. Insert some of the light brown gumpaste into the clay gun, fitted with the multihole disc and extrude to get pieces approximately 5-8" long. While the pieces are still pliable, roll them around a toothpick for curl and shape. Make enough to give the mermaid a luxuriously full head of hair. 12. To make the arms, take a piece of flesh-colored gumpaste about the size of a quail egg, and divide in two. Roll out one piece into a sausage, and flatten one end as a start for shaping the hand. Thin at the wrist, shape the palm with the ball tool, and cut the fingers with the X-Acto. Elongate the other end of the arm and bend to form the elbow. Repeat this with the other piece of gumpaste and set aside to dry overnight. 54 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 14. 13. Paint tail part with a mixture of clear alcohol, food coloring and white luster dust. This gives a lovely, shimmery effect. Paint the shells in a similar mixture, but using a different food coloring. Attach the shells to the torso by dampening the torso. To achieve a glossy effect on these painted areas, combine 1 tbsp clear alcohol with 1 tbsp corn syrup and paint this over the tail and shells. Attach the arms with stiff royal icing. You will need to hold the arms to the body for a few minutes to make sure they are completely secure. You might have to add cotton underneath the arm to secure until they are completely set. 15. 16. Place the head into the neck and secure with royal icing. 17. Attach the hair, starting from the back of the head, using a water pen. ACD Anthony Peña, CMSA, developed a passion for cake design at the age of 16 and has pursued the craft ever since, including coursework at the International Culinary Center in New York City. He has already made a mark, garnering a number of awards including silver and gold medals from the Société Culinare Philanthropique, ACF and the New York Guild of Chefs. In 2011 he became the youngest ICES certified master sugar artist and last November was awarded the Medal of Honor at the International Salon of Culinary Arts. His work has been published in this magazine as well as Pasticceria Internazionale, Australian SugarCraft, Modern Wedding Cakes and the ICES newsletter. Anthony shares his expertise in sugar craft through by-appointment classes in New York City. Weblinks: facebook.com/m.anthonypena @anthony_doughboy MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 55 TUTORIAL 56 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 21ST CENTURY LAMBETH Over the past year Kathleen Lange has traveled to Canada, Italy, the Netherlands, the U.K. and other countries, demonstrating through her Lange Lambeth boot camps the core techniques to this traditional decorating method. ”All my boot camps are designed to teach pressure control, techniques and different border variations,” she said. ”As an instructor, my goal is for the students to learn these techniques versus just a single project, because this way they can use these skills on any type of design.” Photography by Adrian Williams COMPONENTS: (1) 6" x 4" or 8" x 4" Styrofoam cake dummy, covered with rolled fondant, placed on cardboard base board that is 4" larger Assorted round and star tips (perfectly round and not bent) #2, 3, 4, 14, 16, 199 #3 round art paint brush with ½" medium bristles 80 proof alcohol, use to dampen art brush for piping mistakes (2) couplers (6) parchment triangles (4) 12" disposable bags Small tapered & angled spatula Edible marker Corsage pins Scissors Turntable (2) 4 cup grease-free containers with lid (1) Royal icing recipe Kathleen notes: I have a favorite recipe (available online at americancakedecorating.com) or you may use CK Products royal icing mix. LEFT: Lambeth method features a lot of different types of borders and over-piping techniques. In Kathleen’s classes, she typically instructs her students to divide their cake into sections so they can work on different techniques and layering in each section. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 57 CAKE DIVIDING AND MEASURING & PATTERN TECHNIQUES: Dividing and measuring the cake is the most important step to make your design perfectly even. Lambeth designs are typically divided in 6, 8, 10, 12 or 16 sections depending on the design, with these designs typically consisting of 2-3” sections on the top of the cakes and for the side and bevel designs. Larger design spans than this make quality stringwork difficult. 1. TUTORIAL The easiest way to evenly divide cakes is by using round parchment or cake pan liners the same size as your cake top. Simply fold a parchment circle in half, then into quarters, sixths, eighths, twelfths and even sixteenths, if you wish. Be sure to fold it in a fan-style for more accurate results. Unfold and you will have a perfectly divided cake top measure. 2. Secure this to a frosted cake with straight corsage pins and mark divisions at cake edge with a toothpick or tiny dots of frosting or edible marker. Using a ruler or tape measure, make sure your top-line dividing marks match up with your bottom— depending, of course, on the design you want to achieve. 3. You may use an angled ruler or regular ruler to mark down the sides of the cake. To mark the bottom of the bevels evenly, you may use the same paper folding technique with larger-size paper; cake-dividing kits are also available. Use top dots as a guide to measure sides of cake, and put tiny dots halfway down all the way around. If you wish to measure sides only, cut a strip of calculator tape long enough to reach around the cake with the ends just meeting; fold in half, in fourths, eighths or twelfths, whatever divisions you will need for completing your design. Pin on cake and mark divisions again with tiny dots or toothpick marks or edible marker. SCALLOPED ZIGZAG PUFF BORDER: Using the same tip #16, fill in the scalloped zigzag border with a puffy zigzag, keeping top edge even with top edge of puff border. 5. 4. Using tip #16, pipe a zigzag scalloped border. Finish top edge of the cake with tip #16 zigzag scallop. 6. OVERPIPING SCALLOPED TECHNIQUE: 7. When borders are complete, use your ruler to measure to the center of your cake. To keep the scallops even, mark approximately ¼" in from the scallop toward the center of the cake. For a typical design, you will have four marks from each point of the scalloped border coming straight in the scallop zigzag border. 8. Holding the bag at a 45-degree angle, pipe the following sequence, as shown from the back of the cake: 1st Layer: tip #16 groove-up zigzag, #16 straight scallop line, tip #3, tip #2, tip #1 2nd Layer: tip #16 groove-u p straight scallop directly on cake, tip #3, tip #2, tip #1 3rd Layer: tip #3 pipe directly on cake, tip #2, tip #1 4th Layer: tip #2 pipe directly on cake, tip #1 5th Layer: tip #1 pipe directly on cake W hen applying the different rows, make sure to allow one width of the #16 or star tip between each row. Kathleen notes: When applying the next layers of stringwork on top of the previous layer, make sure you allow enough drying time in-between; usually finishing the step around the cake allows enough time. If you lay too quickly on top of the previous lines, they may sag or fall over. Make sure to keep lines and overpiping nice and straight—and no air showing between lines or bump in frosting—otherwise the overpiping will look uneven. 58 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 STRINGWORK WITH LOOPS: 9. When piping stringwork always remember: do not follow the string down the side of the puffed scallop or cake. Always keep the tip and bag even with the top edge of the cake, allowing the stringwork to drape naturally, dropping the longest string first. 10. When applying stringwork, leave approximately one width of the tip #16 between drapes—this provides a nice visual. You may drop an odd number of strings; three to five look nice on most designs.If you want to add another set over the first layer, wait until the first layer has dried slightly. This is usually the amount of time it takes to make it around the cake, but if it still seems soft, wait a little longer before adding another layer. ROUND PUFFS: ELONGATED PUFFS: 11. Using tip #199, hold the bag at a 90-degree angle. The goal is to make puffs approximately 1" high and round. Squeeze a large amount of frosting and slowly pivot your wrist to the right or left, depending on if you are rightor left-handed. The puff should look like a big, perfectly round sea shell with no tail. 12. Using tip #199, hold the bag at a 45-degree angle, slightly above the surface. Squeeze with firm pressure and slowly move the tip toward six o’clock, approximately 2" toward you and moving the back of the bag upright and pulling down toward the surface at the same time. This will give you an elongated puff with a nice, even angle. You do not want a piped shell with a little tail. APPLYING ROUND & ELONGATED PUFFS : 13. To apply round puffs and elongated puffs to your cakes, start piping 1" from the edge. This will allow for at least 1/4" of space to add a finishing zigzag scallop detail above the stringwork. For the elongated puffs, mark approximately 2-2 ½" in from the edge. This will give you a visual point to follow, allowing you to pipe your puffs straight rather than a curving them in different directions. All puffs should touch. FINISHING THE EDGE OF PUFFS AND STRINGWORK : 14. To finish top edge of the cake design after the stringwork and puffs, use a tip #14, and holding the bag at a 45-degree angle, place a scalloped zigzag around the puffs. Then using a straight tip #14, apply a curved line on top of the puffs, making sure your tooth is facing up. You may finish the design by continuing to overpipe with tips #4, 3, 2 or any other sequence of round, being careful to add additional layers directly on top of scrolls and to ensure there is no airspace between them. FINISHING THE EDGE OF PUFFS AND STRINGWORK : Kathleen notes: I prefer making my own leaf tips, depending on the sizes of my cakes; I can adjust the size by cutting my own. Make a parchment bag with a very tight point, fill with royal icing, fold your bag the way you would prefer. Squeeze the icing to the tip and proceed cutting an upside down “V” point on your bag. Test to make sure the vein of your leaf is centered by the “V” cut. ACD americancakedecorating.com 59 15. MAY | JUNE 2014 TUTORIAL KEY FACTORS IN QUALITY LAMBETH WORK: Consistency of Icing When filling your decorating cones or bags, a good rule is to paddle the frosting with a spatula on a mat or board to get rid of the excess air bubbles before filling the bag. Remember when using a small tip, use a small bag, never overfill your bags, and never hold your decorating bag in your hand longer than 15 minutes at a time (continuously decorating will cause your frosting to lose its shape or be airy). Kathleen notes: I prefer using parchment for stringwork. The only time I use disposable or pastry bags is when using a large tip for puff zigzag borders or when using larger tips. Angle of Bag and Decorating Tips The bag should always be held at either a 45-degree angle for decorating the side of the cake or either a 45- or 90-degree angle to decorate the top and the cake board, depending on the design. Always remember to position the bag so that one tooth of the star is facing up; this gives you one continuous groove (canal) in the top of your design and it allows the following stringwork steps to lay properly in the design. That makes your completed design more even and consistent, very important criteria in Lambeth work. Pressure Control Piping is often one of the first skills many decorators learn, and it is the basis of Lambeth designs. To be truly proficient, it takes practiceâ€”and more practice. In order to lay down the proper foundation layer of piping and to ensure all subsequent layers remain smooth, even and elegant, proper pressure control when piping is critical. If the base is uneven, it affects the entire design. There should be no bumps, hollows, or breaks in a wellexecuted Lambeth design. As you pipe, you may want to keep an artist brush handy; dampen slightly with 80-proof alcohol to blend or repair your stringwork as you work. All lines should look perfectly shaped and have no balls or bulges at meeting points. Layering A true Lambeth design must have five layers of piping somewhere on the cake. Righthanded decorators work from left to right; left-handed decorators work right to left. All cake designs should demonstrate this skillâ€”shells, lattice, and stringwork should all finish in the proper direction. 60 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Kathleen Lange is a master cake design artist from San Diego, CA, and Sandpoint, ID. She has been decorating and teaching confectionery arts since 1980. Known internationally for her skills in the Lambeth method, she has helped bring back this old-school design by innovating her own techniques. She regularly runs Lange/Lambeth Boot Camps in locations around the world as well as other highly regarded classes in a range of sugar art skill and has recently documented those classes on a series of DVDs to be introduced later this summer. These include: Intro to Lambeth Method, the Lange Style of English/Lambeth Overpiping, Toothpick Roses and Truffle Dessert Cakes. Weblinks: ConfectionaryChalet.com Facebook: Confectionary Chalet Your one stop web-shop for wedding cake supplies this season! ships worldwide WWW.GLOBALSUGARART.COM 800.420.6088 INTERNATIONAL CAKE EXPLORATION SOCIETE 39 TH ANNUAL CONVENTION & SHOW ALBUQUERQUE, NM JULY 30 - AUGUST 3, 2014 TUTORIAL The Caged Bird Sings When asked to create a design for the “International” theme of this issue, Susana Martinez Zepeda came up with a design that incorporated several specific elements she sees as part of the Mexican culture. “Gerberas are a popular and easy-to-grow flower in almost all of Mexico. And I had to include Monarch butterflies, who travel up to 4,000 miles from Canada to the fir forests in Mexico, where there is a national sanctuary. Birds are special to me, as my mother used to raise them, and for the cage, black wrought iron is popular for many rustic decorations and embellishments.” 62 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 COMPONENTS: (1) half-round cake, 6" x 2" (2) round cakes, 6" x 3" (1) round cake, 10" x 3" Filling of your choice Buttercream FOR DESIGN AND ASSEMBLY: 1 lb black fondant 1 lb white fondant 1 lb white gumpaste Edible paint colors: yellow, black, lilac, brown, blue, orange, white and gold Gumpaste colors: black, white, orange, yellow, lilac, violet and pink Royal icing Edible glue Paint brushes Rolling mat Large and small rollers Clay gun Tip no. 352 Butterfly cutters in multiple sizes and styles Bird stencil Susana notes: Of course, if you have the ability to paint these freehand, there’s no need for a stencil! Gerbera cutters in small, medium and large. Susana notes: I used PME cutters. 3" round cutter Susana notes: You can use a cutter with either a standard or decorative edge. X-Acto™ knife Strip cutter Ruler Fondant smoother Skewers or spaghetti Spatula 2. 1. Roll out a piece of white fondant large enough to cover both 6" tiers of the cake, except the dome, in one piece. (The 10" bottom tier will be covered later.) The seam on the side of the cake from this step will be hidden by the “wrought iron” cage later. Susana notes: If 3. Prep the cakes shaping them if necessary to consistent diameters, fill them and give them a buttercream crumb coat. you find it easier to cover the cake in smaller fondant pieces, divide the diameter of the cake into a number equal to the bars of the cage. To cover the dome, roll out the white fondant and cut it in a round shape. Apply it on the top of the dome and trim any excess with the X-Acto. Use the smoother to better join the lines in the fondant. ▶ MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 63 TUTORIAL 4. 5. the birds above the middle section of the cake, because the additional decorations that will be added later will cover them if placed lower. Place the bird stencil and mark the birds’ positions on the side of the cake. Susana notes: Position ▶ Dilute the colors with rum or vodka in order to paint them easily. The alcohol will evaporate while the color remains. Paint the birds in your preferred style, adding details such as beaks, eyes, variation in wing color, etc. Susana notes: 6. Roll out some 50/50 gumpaste/fondant in black. Cut a long strip and apply it in-between the dome and the body of the cage. This will help attach the dome with the rest of the cake. 7. Put some 50/50 black into the clay gun fitted with a disc fitted with either 1/4" round opening. Extrude approximately 24", then fold this in half and twist to form a simple braid. Brush some edible glue on the “joints” of the white fondant and position the black braid. Start from the bottom and work up, hold the braid taut, using a ruler or other guide to ensure a straight line. 8. Susana notes: Using 50/50 makes the fondant more manageable without stretch, and it doesn’t dry as quickly, allowing for more time to work and position it. If you prefer, you could also apply this piece in sections, using the same divisions from step 2. Repeat steps 7 and 8 to cover all seams, if you covered the cake in pieces, or to create as many cage ribs as you desire. Join all the braids at the top of the cake. 9. 11. 10. Cover the 10" cake in black fondant to serve as the base of the cage and center the “cage” structure on top. ▶ Roll out some 50/50 black and with the widest part of a piping tip and cut at least as many circles as you have cage ribs. These will be used as decoration in the next step. Set these aside to dry. 12. With the same technique from step 7, make braids that will swag from the cage ribs. Drape these in position with edible glue, then cover the joints with the circles cut in step 10. 13. Roll out a piece of black fondant approximately ¼" thick and cut with the 3" round cutter. Position on the top of the cake to cover the joint where all the cage ribs meet. 14. Roll out a tube of black gumpaste approximately ¼" thick and approximately 16" long. Fold in half and twist, as in step 7. Shape into a loop and insert skewers (or spaghetti) into each end. Let dry until very firm. ▶ 64 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Roll out some white gumpaste, very thin, and cut out various sizes of butterflies. Allow to dry in an open book or with cotton balls under their wings to add movement and shape. 15. Once dry, paint the butterflies according to your preference. For Monarch butterflies, I start by painting approximately half the body yellow and half orange, then I add the black details and other distinguishing marks; otherwise, you may choose different types of butterflies to use as your model. Set the finished butterflies aside. 16. ▶ Let some gerberas dry in a flower former. Layer some of the smaller flowers inside the larger, and create centers out of contrasting gumpaste. Susana notes: You 17. Color some of the white gumpaste in yellow, orange, pink, etc. Roll out one color at a time, approximately ¼" thick, and cut out as many flowers in as many different sizes as you wish using the gerbera cutters. 18. ▶ should make some flowers as you are decorating the cake – this way the flowers dry in place. Try to keep some of the cut-outs “whole” meaning the petals stay connected further out from the center, as some gerberas grow this way. Insert the fully dried cage hanger from step 13 into the top, then begin positioning and applying the flowers. 19. 20. With the 352 tip, use green royal icing to add leaves around the flowers. Next, layer the butterflies on and around the flowers and the rest of the cake. 21. ▶ With the clay gun, repeat the process from step 7, adding some “wrought iron” details to the cage, such as the s-curves shown at the base of the cage and on the bottom tier and cake board. ACD 22. Susana Martínez Zepeda has been involved in the cake business for more than 10 years. Six years ago she opened her own shop, Casa Susana, which serves as both a retail and a training facility. Susana is a member of ICES and an instructor for Wilton, Satin Ice and SugarVeil in Mexico. She is also an instructor for the recently formed Sugar Arts Institute. Her work has been featured in Mexican and international publications, as well as in TV trend reports on cake decoration and the sugar arts. Weblinks: CasaSusana.com.mx Facebook: Susana Martinez Facebook: Casa Susana MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 65 El pájaro enjaulado canta TRADUCCIÓN DE SUSANA MARTÍNEZ ZEPEDA TUTORIAL Cuando se le preguntó para crear un diseño para el tema de este número “Internacional”, Susana Martínez Zepeda subió con un diseño que incorpora varios elementos específicos que ve como parte de la cultura mexicana. “Gerberas son una flor popular y fácil de cultivar en casi todo México.Y he tenido que incluir las mariposas monarca, que viajar hasta 4.000 millas desde Canadá hasta los bosques de abetos en México, donde hay un santuario nacional. Los pájaros son especiales para mí, ya que mi madre solía criarlos, y para la jaula, de hierro forjado negro es popular para muchas decoraciones y adornos rústicos.” INGREDIENTES: ½ pan en forma de balón de 6" de diámetro y de 2" de alto 2 panes redondos de 6” de diámetro y de 3” de alto 1 pan redondo de 10” de diámetro y 3” de alto Relleno de su preferencia Betún de mantequilla 500 gr fondant negro I Kg de fondant blanco Pintura comestible en colores amarillo, negro, lila, azul, naranja, carne y blanco Pasta de goma en color blanco y negro 1. Prepara los panes. Se aplica el Betún de mantequilla y se ponen a enfriar para darle firmeza al Betún y al pan. Si es necesario cortar para que queden al mismo diámetro se hará. Si les parece más fácil forrar la jaula en partes tendrán que dividir el diámetro del pastel en el número de piezas necesarias tomando en cuenta que en cada unión irá una pieza de alambre que nos dará la apariencia de jaula. 2. Estirar el fondant y el largo será del diámetro del pastel dejando a un lado la cúpula del mismo, la cual se cubrirá con fondant en forma separada. Abrazar el pastel con el fondant de manera que se cubra en una sola pieza todo el cuerpo de la jaula, quedando una sola unión, la cual taparemos cuando se decore la jaula con las piezas que la formarán. Nota de Susana: 3. Para forrar la cúpula se estira el fondant blanco y se corta una forma redonda y se cubre con ésta y se recortará el sobrante con un exacto. 4. Con el stencil manchamos o marcamos los pajaritos solo como patrón de acuerdo a los colores en que los pintaremos. 5. Estira un poco la pasta de goma 50% y Fondant 50% en Notas de Susana: Coloca los pajaritos en la parte alta de la mitad de la jaula ya que se acomodarán las flores en la parte baja. color negro y con un cortador de listones realizamos un corte largo que nos ayudará a cubrir y unirá la parte de la cúpula con el cuerpo de la jaula. Notas de Susana: Utilizamos 50% y 50% MATERIALES: Pegamento comestible Pincel Mat para extender Rodillos para extender grande y pequeño Extruder Duya Cortadores con figura de mariposas Medianos Stencil de pájaro Cortadores de Gerbera chico, mediano y grande. Marc PME Cortador redondo con figura en flor Cuchillo para pan Cortador de listones Regla Alisador para fondant Palillos o spaguetti Espatula Formadores de flores Cuter o exacto para que sea muy manejable sin que se estire pero sin que se seque tan rápido y nos dé oportunidad de acomodarla y pegarla. Si lo desean pueden realizarlos también por secciones y buscar alguna decoración que tape sus cortes como la decoración que se explica más adelante. 6. Para terminar el tallo ovario, filamentos por filamentos, muy manejable sin que se estire pero sin que se seque tan rápido y nos dé oportunidad de acomodarla y pegarla. Si lo desean pueden realizarlos también por secciones y buscar alguna decoración que tape sus cortes como la decoración que se explica más adelante. pintar cada pieza con el verde manzana. Agregue un poco de detalle para el filamento con un poco de color verde oscuro o magenta. Notas de Susana: Utilizamos 50% y 50% para que sea 7. Con 50% de pasta de goma y 50% fondant en color negro y una herramienta “Extruder” y utilizando una salida redonda sacamos una cantidad de aproximadamente 35 cm de largo y la doblamos a la mitad y girar para formar una trenza. 8. Aplicamos pegamento comestible con un pincel en las uniones del fondant y al momento de pegar nuestra decoración simulando el alambre comenzamos de abajo hacia arriba para poder estirar y dejarlo realmente recto. Con la ayuda de una regla vamos marcando la distancia entre la cual se pegarán nuestros alambres simulados. 66 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 9. Repite los pasos 7 y 8, si cubres el pastel en piezas o para crear tantos alambres como tu decidas, junta todos los alambres en la punta de la jaula (pastel). 10. Cubrimos nuestro pastel redondo de 10” de diámetro en fondant de color negro y este será la base de nuestra jaula y centra el pastel en la base. 11. Estira un poco de 50% y 50% en color negro y con la parte más ancha de la duya haremos unos círculos que nos servirán como decoración más adelante. Estos servirán para la decoración de más adelante. Reservamos y los dejamos que sequen un poco. 12. Con la misma técnica que realizamos los alambres de la jaula, haremos unas guirnaldas en los espacios del cuerpo de la jaula y los pegamos con pegamento comestible y terminamos la decoración con los botones cortados en el paso anterior. 13. Estira 50% y 50% fondant negro de aprox. ¼” de grueso y con un cortador redondo de 3” de diámetro y con la parte de la figura recortamos un círculo el cual pegaremos en la parte alta de la jaula , en donde todos los alambres se juntan. 14. Estira en forma cilíndrica un poco de fondant y paste de goma. Con el mismo procedimiento del punto 7 realizaremos la parte de hasta arriba de la jaula (el gancho) pero en las puntas de la trenza le pondremos unos palillos con los cuales clavaremos esta pieza en lo alto de la jaula. Por seguridad, también podemos utilizar un pedazo de spagheti en cada final en lugar de los palitos de madera. 15. Estira un poco de pasta de goma blanca y la adelgazamos bastante para cortar unas mariposas y que no queden ni gruesas ni burdas y las dejamos secar en un libro abierto en la parte central del mismo para darle la apariencia del movimiento de las alas de las mariposas. O colocando un poco de algodón por debajo de las mismas para darle movimiento. 16. Una vez secas pinta las mariposas de acuerdo a tu preferencia, para mariposas monarcas yo empecé pintando aproximadamente la mitas del cuerpo en amarillo y la otra mitas en naranja, entonces pintamos los detalles negros y otras marcas distintivas; de otra manera puedes escoger diferentes tipos de mariposas para usarlas como tu modelo. Deja las mariposas a un lado para dejarlas secar. 17. Colorea un poco de pasta de goma en amarillo, naranja, rosa, etc. Y estira un color por cada vez aproximadamente ¼ de pulgada de grosor y corta flores tantas veces lo desees y de los tamaños que decidas usando los cortadores PME de gerberas. 18. Deja algunas flores secar en formadores de flores acomodando algunas pequeñas adentro de las grandes. Notas de Susana: Deberás cortar algunas de las flores en el momento de decorar el pastel, de esta manera las flores se secarán en su lugar. Trata de cortar las gerberas y que los pétalos se mantengan unidos ya que las gerberas crecen de esa manera. 19. Inserta el gancho de la jaula ya seco (paso 13) en lo alto comenzando a colocar las flores. hojas alrededor de las flores. 20. Con la duya 352 y con royal icing color verde realiza varias 21. Paso seguido pega algunas de las mariposas sobre las flores y otras alrededor de la jaula donde te gusten. 22. Con el extruder realiza más decoraciones como detalles de hierro forjado en la jaula, en la base de la jaula y entre los alambres de ella. ACD Susana Martínez Zepeda has been involved in the cake business for 10 years. Six years ago she opened her own shop, Casa Susana, which serves as both a retail and a training facility. Susana is a member of ICES and an instructor for Wilton, Satin Ice and SugarVeil in Mexico. She is also an instructor for the recently formed Sugar Arts Institute. Her work has been featured in Mexican and international publications, as well as in TV trend reports on cake decoration and the sugar arts. WEBLINKS: CasaSusana.com.mx Facebook: Susana Martinez Facebook: Casa Susana Susana Martínez Zepeda ha estado implicado en el negocio de la torta por 10 años. Hace seis años ella abrió su propia tienda, el Casa Susana, que sirve como una venta al por menor y facilidad de entrenamiento. Susana es un miembro de ICES y un instructor para Wilton, el Satin Ice y el SugarVeil en México. Ella es también instructor para el instituto recientemente formado de los artes del azúcar. Su trabajo se ha ofrecido en publicaciones mexicanas e internacionales, tan bien como en informes de la tendencia de la TV sobre la decoración de la torta y los artes del azúcar. MAY | JUNE 2014 americancakedecorating.com 67 LAST BITE It sounds like the beginning of a standardized joke: A Brazilian (Ivan Brehm), an Australian (Mark Ebbels) and a Greek (Kostas Papathanasiou) meet in a British restaurant – but that’s exactly what happened. Ivan, Mark and Kostas all met while working at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck. Now, they’re teamed up and heading the acclaimed Bacchanalia in Singapore. Executive chef Ivan Brehm, sous chef Mark Ebbels and executive pastry chef Kostas Papathanasiou work together to reinvent classics and create thought-provoking dishes influenced by flavors, techniques and premium ingredients from around the world. This chocolate cake is a perfect example. The kitchen team wanted to play with something people recognize (the ubiquitous chocolate cake with strawberries) while creating something decadent, indulgent and unique to Bacchanalia. The many and carefully constructed layers of cake combine chocolate with fruit, bitter, caramel flavors and brittle, crunchy, smooth and creamy textures. Find out more about the construction of this cake and get all the steps and recipes at AmericanCakeDecorating.com. 68 americancakedecorating.com MAY | JUNE 2014 Professional QualityBakeware and Decorating Tools helps you create your own Spectacular Cakes & Desserts. Look for these quality items at a store near you • Heavy-Gauge Aluminum Bakeware • Cake Toppers • Flavors & Colors • Tips & Tips Sets • Pastry Bags, Spatulas, Decorating Utensils • Airbrush Supplies • Candy Molds Magic Line® The Choice of Professionals for over 80 Years Parrish’s Cake Decorating Supplies, Inc. MARCH | APRIL 2013 americancakedecorating.com Magic Line® Pans – Made in USA69