donald link cochon butcher, la I had to rib Donald Link a little about his stature in New Orleans and so I nicknamed him “the Mayor.” On my flight into Louisiana I overheard three conversations about his restaurants and his butcher shop. While I sat in Cochon Butcher, the fawning created a discernible uptick in the humidity. Clearly a prodigal son, he has a majestic air. Relaxed and
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tensile in the same breath, like a napping lion. He has a whole New Orleans storyline wrapped up in his relationship to food. Born of a rice empire that held fast to fecund country traditions, he headed off to culinary school. At forty years old, he owns three restaurants—Herbsaint, Cochon, Cochon Butcher, as well as Calcasieu, an event space.The butcher shop has a counter of take-home, house-cured, fresh meats and also serves a daily rotating menu of sandwiches. An empire with a long memory.