AIGUILLE DU TACUL [3444m]
79 ❘
LESCHAUX BASIN
Stupenda
Difficulty: III 6 M6 A2 Vertical height: 300m Time: 1 hr 30 min from the Leschaux hut to the foot of the route/8 hrs for the route/1 hr 30 min for the abseil descent Fixed gear: Belays equipped with pegs and bolts Gear: Aliens – black to yellow, 2 sets of Camalots – purple to grey, plus 1 purple 5 and 1 green 6, wires, 2 bird beaks, 7 pegs – 2 knifeblades, 2 lost arrows, 3 angles Period: Winter, autumn Access: Leschaux hut (2431m) First ascent: Philippe Batoux, Patrick Gabarrou and Christophe Dumarest, 14 March 2003. A week after the first ascent the route was soloed by Bruno Sourzac
Aiguille du Tacul
Eric’s gully
Above Patrick Gabarrou climbing the lower buttress of Stupenda during the first ascent. Stupenda
Right-hand page The climbing becomes much more difficult when the ice is of variable consistency (6).
164 MONT BLANC, the finest routES
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19/03/2013 10:10