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FEBRUARY 2013 PAGE 22
DESTINATION TURKEY
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t is easy to understand, as the Romans, the Byzantines and the Ottomans clearly did, that Istanbul is the centre of the universe. Tourists got to the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque and Topkapi palace to learn that. In the process they fail to understand that the Istanbuli universe has its own centre: Eminonu quay. It is a tram ride from the tourist attractions (not just the overground ones, check out the Roman baths) and here the throngs gather to cram the ferries bound every 15 minutes for the magical, mysterious Asian shores. They are coloured vividly with scarlet lifebuoys, and belch black smoke as they chug away from our continent. The 20-minute crossing to Uskudar costs about 50 cents. It can be a breezy pleasure, enhanced with strong tea in tiny tulip glasses. The skyline shines in every direction, billowing mosques, brandishing their towers like medieval bayonets, the silent Galata Tower, a relic of Genoese-colonial times; Topkapi lurking behind its veil of vegetation, the extravagant mansions and palaces that line the shoreline, and in the distance, the gatepost castles of the Bosphorous which reminded everyone that Constantinople was unstormable. The sunshine dances on the choppy surface of the Bosphorus. The mysterious Kiz Kulesi, a fairytale lighthouse on a
Golden Horn Eoghan Corry finds treasure beyond Topkapi in Istanbul
hippest clubs. The restaurant with the best view in town is Hamdi, serving inexpensive local produce made with the best local ingredients in the best location since 1970. Mustafa Bey’s family has built the place up and it is now a 500-seat business over three floors. The food is VERY specialist - minced meat pizza, yoghurt starters, and no one else serves pistachio kebab. Don’t miss it.
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There are many treasures beyond the astonishing skyline in Istanbul rocky outcrop, sits near the shore. In the distance you can see the Princes’ Islands, a taste of holiday resort Turkey, a three euro boat ride from the city, like lumps of granite peering out in the Sea of Marmara. They are an enticing sight, sun resorts from the south east magically towed to lie within easy reach of the metropolis. Then before you have taken it all in, the engines go quiet. Welcome to Asia.
THINGS TO DO
n Sirkeci Station is a Germanic masterpiece almost within the shadow of Topkapi Palace. For decades this was the way to arrive in Istanbul, aboard the Orient Express from Paris to Constantinople. The route still operates. n Salacak is hopping-on point for a quick boat trip out to the strange Kiz Kulesi (Maiden’s or Leander’s Tower). (It costs about €3) kizkulesi.com.tr
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n Athenian antiquity Uskudar was called Chrysopolis, the “city of gold”. It is a city in its own right, full of life and tradition. You can go to the endpoint at Fehnerbahce (the only major soccer club is on the Asian shore, unlike Galatasaray and Bezitkas) to walk the gardens and look back at Europe. Dominating the main square is the magnificent Iskele Camii, which was built sometime around 1557 by Sinan as a tribute
PLACES TO EAT
n Kanaat Lokantasi (Selmanipak Caddesi 25), a clean, plain, brightly lit dining area. Big tureens brim with classic mezzeler (shared starters), including imam bayildi – aubergine, tomato, onions and olive oil, n House Café Ortaky (Salhanesi Sokak 1; tel +90 212 227 2639), the perfect pit stop for coffee or a shared bottle of Turkish rosé.
to Mihrimah, daughter of Suleyman the Magnificent. If you make it to Yeni Valide Camii you will find a peaceful courtyard to sit in with cats for company. As the evening light fades the buzz of Bagdot Street matches anything back acrosss the Bosphorous. Istanbul is not just a city of 2,000 mosques, 157 churches and 18 synagogues, but also home to some of the hottest nightlife in Europe. The hottest places are within easy reach of each other. Su Ada has the edge on the private yacht scene as it is offshore. It is vying to be trendiest night spot in Istanbul with Sortie (formerly Laila, recently renamed), and Reina (still, as its name
suggests, reigning champion). The rooftop 360 offers floor-to-ceiling windows opens out onto a huge terrace and, late at night, turns into one of the city's
here is lots to see and a short time to do it, so Guide Yirdiray Kirmizi quickly identifies the pace I like and we have 25 stops on a city tour to beat all city tours - five mosques, three churches, four parks, four viewpoints, three museums and other attractions all flash by at speed. We pay homage, in rapid fire succession, to the reliquary (Patriarchate at Fener), the beautiful (St Giorgio), the aesthetic (St Savior in Chora), the spiritual (Church of Panagia of Blechernae, leafy green and out of the way, a real treasure), the boring (Tekfur Palace), the over-rated (spice market) and the sublime (the huge underwater cisterns near Hagia Sophia).
Ice cream sellers awaiting their day
n Eoghan Corry flew to Istanbul with Turkish Airways, who fly daily direct from Dublin.