ITALIAN Emiliano Once you’ve sampled Emiliano’s fresh robalo (snook) in a savoury crust with hot peppers, accompanied by sautéed tomato, aubergine and courgette, you’ll come to see why this restaurant, which goes by the same name as the hotel that houses it, is considered to have one of the best chefs in the city at its helm. If pasta appeals, try the potatostuffed tortelli with caramelised onion in black truffle sauce, on parmesan shavings; or go for the pescada amarela (grey snapper) in salmoriglio sauce with clams and asparagus crostini. The restaurant has a lovely vertical garden that’s particularly picturesque at lunchtime, when it’s bathed in natural light. Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardim Paulista (3068 4393/emiliano.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonFri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$43-$163; lunch R$53; couvert R$14-$15. STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat The
number of architecturally significant and gastronomically superb restaurants in São Paulo is astounding. Even so, finding gentrified country dining a block away from Rua Oscar Freire is a surprise. A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. The restaurant is famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite. The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo. A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$74-$235; couvert R$23.50.
BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble streetcorner lanchonetes. Here at the slightly more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s all about the burgers, with the succulent Bom Bom most in demand – a 220g churrasco-style burger with homemade tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the delicious mushroom-and-grilled-vegetable burger is a treat. Lanchonete’s french fries are also good, but paulistanos swear by the batatas rústicas – crispy fried discs of crunchy potato scattered with rosemary and cloves of sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 3399/ lanchonetedacidade.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses R$14.50-$41. Other locations Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; Avenida Macuco 355, Moema. FRENCH L’Entrecôte d’Olivier You won’t have any trouble deciding what to eat at the restaurant formally known as L’Entrecôte de Ma Tante – all gastronomic dilemmas cease once you walk through the door, because celebrity chef Olivier
Anquier serves just one dish: an entrecôte in a greenish sauce, supposedly his aunt’s secret recipe. We can’t help wondering what has happened to the formerly eponymous aunt; but whatever her fate, the solo star of the show, a traditional French rib eye steak, is good. It’s served with a pile of all-you-can-eat bistro-style fries (possibly São Paulo’s best); and there’s a manageable wine list that’s heavy on France and South America. The space, decked out in sexy reds and blood-red velvet curtains, feels slightly overdone, as you might expect from the fashionista/ architect team that owns the place. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 17, Jardim Europa (3034 5324/bistroentrecote.com.br) Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon11pm Sun. Main course R$58; couvert R$4.80. FUSION/ASIAN Marakuthai Marakuthai
started out as a relaxed, upscale restaurant on Ilhabela before its beachside success spawned this urban sister. And though the much-praised restaurant’s name might suggest a straight up-and-down Thai joint, in fact Indian, Moroccan and Brazilian also get a look-in on the menu with dishes like the khiri khiri starter – prawn balls in a cashew crust with a saké and chilli sauce (R$24). The presentation is flawless, from the green tea in tall glass jugs with mint, herbs and citrus fruits to the food, thoughtfully laid out on attractive platters: all in all, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Alameda Itu 1618, Jardim Paulista (3062 7556/marakuthai.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8pmmidnight Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 8pmmidnight Thu; 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$29-$79.
ITALIAN Mercearia do Conde A tumble down the rabbit hole might – just might – prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side. The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. Rua Joaquim Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 7204/merceariadoconde.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonmidnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45. ItaliAN Pizzaria Urca A look at the neatly charred underside of your pizza at Pizzaria Urca will have you purring with pleasure – and that’s before you’ve sampled the simple perfection of this classic thin-crust São Paulo pie. The joint’s fast, professional service and good value make it a great find for a beer (chopes R$4.80) and pizza close to Paulista. Swerve the industrial-style pudim de leite (flan), order another chope and enjoy the nofrills, family-style atmosphere. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2401, Jardim Paulista (3284 7724/pizzariaurca.com. br). Open 6pm-12.35am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.35am Sun. BARGAIN Main courses R$33-$57.
tadeu brunelli/PRESS IMAGE
Food & Drink
(2649 7952/duirestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 12:304:30pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$79; couvert R$13.
Lo cal Go for the new healthy Sunday buffet (R$45.80) at Uni, in the MASP.
BURGERS Ritz Ritz has a hard time determining what city it’s in, and providing you can get in, you’ll also have a hard time believing that you’re still in São Paulo, and not in Paris or the East Village. It has the look of a French bistro with mirrors and red leather banquettes; and is popular with gay folk and trust-fund bohemians. As for the food, it’s best known for its great hamburgers and delicious pastas. For an appetiser, try the bolinhos de arroz (fried rice balls), a speciality you’re not likely to find outside of São Paulo. The portions are generous, and if you’re not too hungry, feel free to share your entrée – the penne mediterraneo is a great for-two option. Although the tunes lean towards indie rock, the drinks are far from dive-bar prices (a caipirinha will set you back R$14.90). Alameda Franca 1088, Jardim Paulista (3088 6808). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Wed; noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1.30am Thu, Fri; 12.30pm-1.30am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26.60-$56.60; lunch R$35.70-$45.80. Other location Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 141, Itaim Bibi (3079 2725); Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (2769 6752). INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle.
Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners. On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71. BRAZILIAN Uni The four red claws of the
MASP draw visitors’ eyes up towards the suspended glass-box filled with one of the continent’s finest art collections. But down below street level, there are more delights to behold: namely the excellent restaurant, Uni. A sprawling fixed-price buffet is served at lunchtimes, with hot dishes such as roast beef and creamy fish bookended by delicious salads and a table piled high with desserts. MASP, Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista (3253 2829). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp. Open 11am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat, Sun. Prices buffet R$35$38. Other location Rua Jorge Coelho 98, Itaim Bibi (3078 4059).
BARBECUE Vento Haragano The
display of perfectly-charred carcasses laid across an open flame at the entrance to this gaúcho-style set-price barbecue
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