THE GAZETTE
Thursday, November 21, 2013 bo
Page B-3
Dogfish Head brewery continues to make a splash
BREWS BROTHERS STEVEN FRANK AND ARNOLD MELTZER Sam Calagione, the brewery’s co-founder and co-owner, opened the Dogfish Head brewpub in 1995 in Rehoboth Beach, Del., near his wife’s hometown. It was named after Calagione’s fondly-remembered vacation spot near Boothbay Harbor in Maine to lend a New England character. Starting with a minuscule 12-gallon brewing facility that needed constant use to keep up with customer demand, Calagione was continuously brewing and getting bored with the repetition. He experimented by grabbing “everything but the kitchen sink,” in a brewing career that has led to his being called the “Mad Alchemist of Brewing.” Demand rapidly increased and a packaging brewery was added in 1997. The kitchen to brewpot escapades gave Dogfish a well
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earned reputation for using unusual ingredients and brewing unusual beers. Some of the non-standard additions to the Dogfish beers include St. John’s Wort, Saffron, Agave nectar, hawthorn berry from China, and spirulina, a blue green algae to give green color for a St. Patrick’s Day beer. Dogfish also has become renowned for its series of India Pale Ales, some very high alcohol brews, and re-creations of ancient ales. The three IPAs, called 60 Minute, 90 Minute, and 120 Minute, add hops continuously for the respective time durations. Calagione got the idea from watching a chef prepare food and adding spices on a continuous basis to enhance the flavor. The high alcohol beers, definite brewing achievements, include World Wide Stout (1520 percent alcohol by volume, ABV), once the highest alcohol beer being regularly brewed; Fort (15-18 percent ABV), a fruit beer with raspberries and the highest alcohol fruit beer being produced; 120 Minute IPA (15-20
percent ABV); and Olde School Barleywine (13-16 percent ABV.)
The Ancient Ales series started as a collaboration with Patrick McGovern, a professor at the University of Pennsylvania’s Museum of Archeology and Anthropology, to recreate the libation consumed at King Midas’ funeral, calling it Midas Touch. Successive collaborations with the McGovern have resulted in producing Chateau Jiahu based on a 9000 year old dig in China; Theobroma based on an 3,200 year old Aztec chocolate beer; Ta Henket using ingredients and traditions from Egyptian hieroglyphics, and Bierra Etrusca Bronze from excavations in a 2,800 year old Etruscan tomb. Midas Touch (9 percent ABV) has a sweet, light honey nose with a hint of white grapes which presages the taste in the front. These all continue in the middle with a slight increase in the grape to medium. The finish adds muted alcohol notes which grow in the aftertaste giving a touch of alcoholic warmth. Ratings: 8/7.5. Palo Santo Marron (12 per-
Dogfish Head Brewery’s 90 minute Imperial IPA. cent ABV) is brewed in a barrel made from the wood of the Paraguayan Palo Santo tree, one of three woods so dense they do not float. Palo has a aroma of roast, grape, licorice and alcohol. The medium roast and muted licorice front continues in the middle as the licorice in-
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creases and is joined by a dollop of chocolate. The roast increases in the finish with an emerging vinous character. In the aftertaste the roast continues, the licorice fades, and a restrained bitter hop appears. Ratings: 9.5/9. 90 Minute IPA (9 percent ABV) opens with a melon, cit-
rus, pine, and bitter hop bouquet. The mild sweet front segues into a middle of melon, citrus and bitter hops. Both the melon and the bitter hops increase to medium in the finish. The hops come to the forefront in the aftertaste but are very well balanced by a strong malt backbone. A relatively high alcohol is present but well integrated. Ratings: 9/9.5. World Wide Stout (18-20 percent ABV), a two year old version, begins with a deep roast, a whiff of alcohol and a slightly vinous aroma. The deep roast and slight alcohol are evidenced in the front. The alcohol increases to medium in the middle as a splash of Port wine appears. The wine grows modestly in the finish and again in the aftertaste, as the alcohol continues. Even with this two year old version, the alcohol is overpowering and the beer needs another two years to become well blended and more balanced. Ratings: 8/8.5. World Wide ages very well. An 8-year old, more mellow and well-integrated version scored 9.5/10.
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One of the nation’s most innovative and fastest growing breweries is on the way to the ocean beaches many Washingtonian’s frequent. The Dogfish Head brewery, in Milton, Del., has become the 13th largest craft brewery in the country, producing over 170,000 barrels of beer in 2012, up 20 percent from 2011. The brewery is finishing an expansion which will allow brewing 600,000 barrels per year.
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