T r av e l
February, 2014
M
y decision to move back to
foodie scene, the live music, and all the outdoor
El Paso in my mid-twenties,
activities. However, I was devastated to leave
after not having lived in the
my border town, it is part of my identity. In
city since I was twelve, was
Gloria Anzaldúa’s famous ‘How to Tame a
one of strange chance. My
Wild Tongue’ she says of border, mestiza,
love for stage acting took me from Los
identity: “There are more subtle ways that
Angeles to New York and then to Dallas.
we internalize identification, especially in the
I ran away from academia the moment I
forms of images and emotions. For me food
turned eighteen, swearing off college, as
and certain smells are tied to my identity, my
I thought the routine was pointless and
homeland … homemade white cheese sizzling
empty: graduate high school then go to
in the pan, melting inside a folded tortilla.
a college where you will befriend similar
My sister Hilda’s hot, spicy menudo Chile
people as in said high-school, join Greek-
Colorado making it deep red, pieces of panza
life, drink too much, act like an idiot, and
and hominy floating on top … barbequing
slide by in classes in order to major in a
fajitas in the backyard … My mouth salivates
generic degree and retain nothing after
at the thought of the hot steaming tamales I
routine of memorization, the end. That was
would be eating if I were home.”
in the
my nightmare. And the dorms horrified me. I rarely speak to people in the morning,
As I have said in other articles, food is place to
especially before coffee, and a dorm meant
me. This is truth when I travel, and in forming
forced social interaction far too early. This
identification. I still miss Gorditas from JJ’s,
led me to Hollywood, my first of many
red chili enchiladas from Chopes, Tiger Cry
independent ventures.
from Tara Thai, wood-fire pizza from Ardovino’s Desert Crossing, and the sweet, smoky smell
Even after all my travel, El Paso was home
of green chili roasting outside of Big 8. El Paso
to me. Much of my family still lived in El
is making its mark on the food scene of Texas,
Paso, and my cultural identification was to
no city in Texas can come close to our tamales,
the border: as Gloria Anzaldúa said, “Wild
enchiladas, and chile rellenos. But, if you come
tongues can’t be tamed, they can only be cut
to Austin, prepare to spend a large part of your
out.” My tongue was a border tongue, one of
time on a food tour. The city is ripe with young
multiplicity. My writing flourished, I was back
creative foodies, pushing limits of cuisine.
in the body of the Chihuahuan Desert. Moving
Food is taken seriously in Austin, organic and
back to El Paso as an adult, I gained a deep
farm fresh really mean organic and farm fresh.
Eastside King - acclaimed chef Paul Qui seems to do no wrong. The famous trailers, as of now there are four locations in Austin, claim ‘so good, make your eye roll back.’ At any of Qui’s restaurants it is not time to be shy or conservative with your pallet; try the beet fries and the tongue bun, yes, I said tongue. $
admiration for the food of our border town. Many of my friends that grew up in El Paso
It has been a wonderful distraction from
complained when they were younger; they
homesickness to explore all the unique, and
lived their life on the ‘I cannot wait to move’
sometimes strange, foodie haunts of Austin.
mentality. I believe most teenagers have this
Some of these haunts are rather hidden, but
attitude about their hometown, only because
like most things in Austin, they aren’t hidden
they are yet to attain perspective and a sense
for long. Dozens of people move to Austin
of adventure that leads them to search for life
everyday, added to the media coverage of
outside of routine. El Paso taught me to search
the city because of so many national events,
for adventure, and the food hunting was part
all things become popular at some point.
of that adventure.
Restaurant hopping is a must in the Texas Capital; a night can consist of fine dining or
When I made the decision to move to Austin,
BYOB outside of a food trailer. Whatever the
for my masters in Creative Writing-Poetry at
location the artistry and passion of all the chefs
Texas State University, I was excited about the
in Austin is worth the extra pounds.
www.thecitymagazineelp.com
Justine’s Brasserie – when I am desperately missing Europe I seek out an evening in this dark, secluded restaurant. The ambiance is divine and the food is pure luxury. Start with a glass of Veuve Clicquot to wash down an order of Escargot, don’t leave any herb butter behind! A fabulous option for Valentine’s Day. $$$
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