The Baltic Guide ENG August 2016

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA SELF-GUIDED TOUR:

Lahemaa National Park Eivør: Live at Viru Folk HIDDEN GALLERIES -

Museum of Icon Art MUSICAL THEATRE

At the Birgitta Festival

Old Town Guide

Where to eat, drink, and shop!

Nightlife: Where to party midweek

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

Summer Blues Tahkuranna or the Lüübnitsa Onion and Fish Fair. And then there are the events that signify the end of summer like the White Lady Festival in Haapsalu and the Night of Ancient Fires where bonfires are lit along the shores of Estonia on the last night in August.

This month’s issue focuses on the Old Town and it’s many hidden gems. While you might wander through it for an hour and decide to head somewhere else, but trust us, there’s more to see and do. We’ve put together a list of favourite places to eat, drink, and shop, as suggested by locals. And don’t forget to check out our nightlife page for a look at some of the hottest midweek parties in town.

Contents 3 editorial

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants 4–5 dining in the Old Town 8 restaurant: Kopli Resto & Tule Estonia 11 restaurant news

August Highlights Photo: Estonian Maritime Museum

01 VIKINGS INVADE TALLINN The new exhibit at the Estonian Maritime Museum will take you on an exciting journey into the world of vikings. Open from 13 August, learn about everyday life, culture, and the truth behind viking legends.

02 ESTONIA VS. MALTA Top-level football can be enjoyed 31 August in Pärnu when Estonia takes on Malta. The last time to the two countries competed, Estonia won 2-1 against Malta in International Friendlies.

03 SUMMER EVENINGS AT THE CINEMA The annual love film festival tARTuFF takes place in Tartu 1-6 August, where fims can be enjoyed in the open air in the outdoor cinema in Tartu’s city centre. Best of all, it’s free! Enjoy everything from the Oscar winner Room to Janis: Little Girl Blue, and the classic Thelma and Louise. The full programme can be found at: http://2016.tartuff.ee

04 HIIUMAA’S CAFÉS Hiiumaa’s Café Days is one of the summer’s most anticipated events. From 4-7 August, the island will welcome visitors to one of the many cafés/restaurants open by the island’s residents in their backyards. For more info: www.kohvikutepaev.ee

shopping 6 beauty 12 nightlife 14-15 shopping in the Old Town 16-17 events 18-19 sightseeing 20 museum 22-24 visitor information and maps 26-27 self-guided tour: Lahemaa National Park

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05 WHITE LADY FESTIVAL The annual White Lady Festival will take place in the seaside town of Haapsalu from 19-21 August in the yard of the Bishop’s Castle. The event takes place during the full moon and includes many performances, concerts, and a market in the town.

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

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Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

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AUGUST 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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rowing up, there were always certain events that marked the end of summer. While we looked forward to them, we couldn’t help the feeling that summer was ending and soon it would be back to school, back to work, and so on. But let’s not get sad quite so soon, we still have a month of festivities, of exploring the country, or enjoying sunsets on the beach, and hopefully some more good weather.

Summer is festival time in Estonia and just because the long days are getting shorter and the weather a little cooler, there is still time to pack a few more in. The annual Birgitta Festival in Pirita showcases contemporary musical theatre in the setting of medieval convent ruins. Let’s not forget about the food festivals that come along with the harvest, like the Pickle festival in

restau

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Wining and Dining We asked Tallinn locals what their favourite places to eat and dri TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Ancho

Grab a pint on Hell Hunt's summer terrace.

Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town i3 The stuffed jalapenos are a must, especially if you like spice. The chillies are stuffed with melted cheese, battered and fried, and served with sour cream. Wash it all down with one of their Mexican beers or a margarita. Check their Facebook page for daily specials.

Art Priori Olevimägi 7, Tallinn Old Town f3 Art Priori aims to combine art and food, though the food is a work of art itself. The balance of flavours is well-executed and the menu is creative and unique. Between the beautiful interior, professional and friendly service, semi-open kitchen to watch all the action, and of course the creative menu, Art Priori is a dining experience recommended and well worth the splurge.

Chakra Delectable sauces at Chakra.

Bremeni Käik 1 / Uus 19, Tallinn Old Town g3 This is the best option for Indian in Tallinn. It’s located in Tallinn’s Old Town in a tiny passageway.

The three dining rooms are richly decorated with bright fabrics that hang from the ceiling. The menu is long, offering everything from veggies to seafood, chicken and lamb.

And best of all: spicy means spicy.

Chedi Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town f3 If you’re in the mood to splurge for a fancy meal, Chedi is the place to go. The modern interior welcomes guests into an exotic and intimate setting for a meal

Great steak at Babulja.

Affordable gourmet at Ribe.

to remember. Try the fried squid and the pork ribs. Every dish is beautifully plated and perfect for sharing.

Golden Dragon Pikk 37, Tallinn Old Town g2 If you are craving lemon chicken, and other fried Chinese favourites, this is the place to come. This cheap and cheerful Chinese restaurant is located in a cellar in the Old Town; go to the back of the restaurant for a cosy booth.

Babulja Pärnu mnt 2, Tallinn Old Town i3 Babulja is not your ordinary Russian restaurant. The atmosphere is casual, with friendly and chatty servers eager to talk about the food and make suggestions, especially when it comes to their signature cocktails. While tourists may see Babulja as another Russian restaurant, the concept here is different. It’s a steakhouse with Russian hospitality.

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Karja Kelder offers cheap filling pub-style meals, incorporating Estonian and British cuisines. The atmosphere is jovial, with traditional Estonian folk and drinking songs playing on repeat.

Kompressor Rataskaevu 1, Tallinn Old Town h1 Kompressor is an institution among locals and tourists who flock there for the perfect morning-after meal to cure any hangover. Kompressor is known for its massive pancakes that come stuffed with savoury or sweet fillings.

Leib Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 Leib Resto ja Aed is the dream of sommelier Kristjan Peäske and chef Janno Lepik,two friends turned restaurateurs. Their love for good food and good wine can be seen in the restaurant’s seasonal menus, and the ever-changing wine list. All of Leib’s raw ingredients come from local farms and producers, the majority of which are organic too.

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1 Step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town.

At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, be sure to try the sausage feast. And what a feast it is! The platter includes different kinds of sausages with potatoes and sauerkraut. To drink, try a pint of the house ale.

Georgia Tavern Rüütli 18, Tallinn Old Town i1 Georgian Tavern Tbilisi is a favourite.

A meal at this restaurant is more like a family meal at home. Choose a few dishes to share. While the portions may appear small, they are filling. The cheese hachapuri (melted cheese in flatbread) is a good start.

A favourite is the hinkali (meat dumplings), which you pick up at the top and eat from the bottom, trying not the spill the liquid inside.

The pork sashlik (grilled meat skewers) is cooked well and served with a tomato dressing; the lamb chops have to be this writer’s favourite!

Rataskaevu 16 Rataskaevu 16, Tallinn Old Town h1 Rataskaevu 16 is one of the top restaurants in Tallinn on TripAdvisor and it’s not just the good food,

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

g in the Old Town nk were in the most touristy area of town. Here’s what they said: but the truly superb service that makes this place great. And to deal with the crowds, they’ve opened another restaurant just around the corner, serving the same menu.

Check their Facebook page for daily lunch specials and be sure to make a booking.

Ribe Vene 7, Tallinn Old Town h2 Slovakian chef Radoslav Mitro runs the kitchen at Ribe. His cooking style encompasses the simplicity of local seasonal ingredients, and incorporates elements of classical French and Nordic cuisines. Named one of Estonia’s best restaurants, come for a great meal without too much of a splurge.

Schnitzel Haus Rüütli 28, Tallinn Old Town i1 If you’re in the mood for some great schnitzel, this is the place to come.

Tucked away in the corner of the Old Town, enjoy different kinds and different sized schnitzels and wash it down with one of their draught beers.

Tigu Pikk 30, Tallinn Old Town g2 This popular Mediterranean seafood restaurant has moved around Tallinn, living in many locations over the past few years. Now you can find them in the Old Town on Pikk Street, where you can enjoy mainly seafood dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisines. Go there for some tapas and share a bottle of wine, or for a full meal.

full on a weekend night. If you can find a table, you’ll have a great time, the place feels warm and inviting, the beer list has enough variety to keep you interested, and live sports matches are shown on the screen.

August Väike-karja 5, Tallinn Old Town i2 The mix of modern and retro make this a cool spot to visit in the Old Town. They’ve just expanded their menu to include an all-day breakfast and a la carte menu in addition to their fabulous desserts, pastries, and coffee.

Kehweider Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town h2 Located right off the Town Hall Square, Kehrwieder must be one of Tallinn’s cosiest cafés. The low ceilings and the dim lighting add to this ambiance. Delicious cakes are on display, and the coffee is some of the best in town. Across the street you can smell the coffee roasting in the Kehrwieder roastery.

Gelsomino Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1 While the menu at Gelsomino has a great selection of classic Italian dishes, it’s the pizza you must try. It’s a true favourite among locals, and some say the best pizza in town.

Ehe Maitse Gurmee Vinoteek

great prices – a hidden dining secret among locals.

Korsaar Dunkri 5, Tallinn Old Town h1 This pirate-themed restaurant may seem a bit absurd in the middle of a medieval Old Town, but ignore this, go inside, and get ready for some great seafood. Prices are on the higher end, but service was good and so was the food.

Troika Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town h1 This long-running Russian restaurant expanded last year to cater to the ever-growing demand for authentic Russian food, drink, and service. The walls and bright interior are luxurious, but in no way excessive. The authentic Russian food is well known at Troika and the service is theatrical. Think: waiters pouring vodka shots from high up.

Texas Pikk 43, Tallinn Old Town g2 This American-style honky-tonk bar with low lighting, all-wooden interior, and a soundtrack that covers the entire narrow musical spectrum from Johnny Cash to Neil Young and back has been open for years.

Try the bar’s burritos and tacos and wash it all down with an excellent margarita.

OZO

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2 This is probably the most famous pub in Tallinn among visitors, and it’s certainly the most likely to be

Mündi 3, Tallinn Old Town h2 Enjoy a glass of wine and a small snack at this great little Italian wine bar. Located just off the main square, Ehe Maitse also serves of great lunch specials like different types of pasta. Great food and

Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3 Recently opened, OZO is a modern Japanese restaurant serving sushi, as well as some wonderful non-fish dishes. The interior is sleek with a compelling living wall one side. Check their Facebook page for very affordable lunch specials. ■

Art and food at Art Priori.

Bookings recommended for Rataskaevu 16.

The best schnitzel in town.

Hell Hunt

Stunning cuisine at Chedi.

Local gourmet from Leib Resto & Aed.

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beauty

Permanent Beauty

“Find out about the spa you are considering having the work done, find out about the person that will be applying the permanent makeup, how much experience they have and examples of work they have done in the past, and find out what machines and products they use”, explains Blanka Jaansalu, owner of Privilegm Day Spa.

The Baltic Guide visited Privileg Day Spa to find out more about permanent makeup.

after the procedure. Have your doctor write you a script for aciklovir, an antiviral that treat herpes virus infections. This will ensure that the cold sores don’t affect the permanent makeup.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, PRIVILEG DAY SPA

The thought of permanent makeup can be terrifying, especially

considering some horror stories we’ve heard. But things have changed over the last ten years and technology continues to improve. Permanent makeup is more common than you think and here’s why.

First of all, if you are considering permanent makeup, do your research. “Find out about the spa you are considering having the work done, find out about the person that will be applying the permanent makeup, how much experience they have and examples of work they have done in the past, and find out what machines and products they use”, explains Blanka Jaansalu, owner of Privileg Day Spa. “If colours come from China, this is a sign to stay away.

At Privileg, our colours come from Italy and we use an Amiea machine from Germany”. Blanka has three and a half years experience, with plenty of international training under her belt. “We use only new needles and everything else is thoroughly sterilised”.

Who can benefit from permanent makeup?

Permanent makeup can be for anyone from ages 18 and up.

There really is no age limit for beauty. It really depends on the effect you are looking for.

Eyebrows, for example can be

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

What about aftercare?

After a procedure, the area will be swollen, but this should go down anywhere from one to three days. Apply Pepanthen Plus to the area twice a day. The area will scab over and it’s important not to pick at it, as otherwise the scab will pull the colour with it.

Take care not to expose the area to strong sunlight. After the first application, wait four weeks and then you will have to go for a correction.

Before & After

contoured for older people who have trouble seeing to pluck their own eyebrows, or for younger people wanting to darken theirs.

Permanent makeup is particularly good for travelling or active people. Contouring around the eyes means that you no longer have to apply makeup, meaning you don’t have worry about eye makeup running while swimming. It’s even possible to get a smokey look.

Does it hurt?

The application of permanent makeup is relatively painless.

On the lips, for example, anaesthetic cream is applied after the contour has been drawn with a pencil. You wait 20 minutes while for the anaesthesia to take effect.

The permanent makeup is applied three times for full effect.

It’s also important to note that if you’re prone to cold sores then they will most likely appear

How long does it last?

Everyone is different and the amount of time that permanent makeup will last depends entirely on the individual. Things like skin type and lifestyle affect permanent makeup, but it can last anywhere from one to five years.

Privileg Day spa offers a full range of spa services, including manicures and pedicures, massages, and facials. The staff are friendly and professional and the atmosphere at Privileg is truly relaxing and welcoming. ■

Location Before & After

Privileg Day Spa Ahtri 6a, Admirali Maja 1st floor, Tallinn a2.

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

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NEW - The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia.

An exhibition of artisan.

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ESTONIAN FIREFIGHTING MUSEUM Raua street 2, Tallinn 10124 Ph: (+372) 53 028 404 e-mail: muuseum@rescue.ee www.tuletorjemuuseum.ee

Open Monday ‒ Thursday 9:00 ‒ 17:00 Friday 9:00 ‒ 15:30

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.

Be creative and make your ideas come to life!

Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies.

Pearls, semi-precious stones, beads, jewellery accessories, gift boxes, yarns, knitting supplies, embroidery supplies, embroidery floss, art supplies, oil and acrylic paints, children’s crafts, soap-making supplies, candle-making supplies, school supplies, school bags, office supplies, clay, and much more.

Entrance through the underpass!

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia.

Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

Tallinn Old Town Medieval Days 7-10 July 2016

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restaurants

Magic and Sorcery

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

Watch the action in the open kitchen.

Get a taste of some modern medieval cuisine at Tule Estonia. international TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Situated right in the heart of the

Old Town in Town Hall Square, Tule Estonia serves up a selection of international cuisine, with a focus on some things you might not always find, like elk and bear, inspired by traditional recipes.

It’s summertime, so we sit outside, but inside an inviting candlelit cellar awaits visitors, a room which is no doubt cosy on cold winter nights. The walls are beautifully decorated with medieval paintings and designs. Upstairs, there is also plenty of seating with views over the square, as well as into their open kitchen. The outdoor terrace offers a prime view of the square, perfect for people watching.

The menu has something for everyone, with everything from soups to salads, three different

Tule Estonia serves a great thin crust pizza.

kinds of burgers, fish dishes, and different roasts that look big enough to feed a group. The fried mixed seafood platter is a favourite.

As we wait for our meal, quite a few pass by our table. The mixed grill platter for two also seems to be a favourite. What you may not think to try, but should, are their pizzas.

The thin crust pizza is one of the better ones in town, with fresh toppings and a crisp crust that goes well with a pint of house beer.

Whether dining or just stopping for a quick drink, the service was attentive and friendly. ■

Location Tule Estonia Raekoja plats 5, Tallinn Old Town h2

--------------------Appetisers: €4.90–€17.

90 Mains: €13.50–€39,9 0 Dessert: €5.90–€7.50 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

A Modern-Day Community Centre Kopli restoran is so much more than just a restaurant. nay paired well. As a main, our duck fillet was nicely seared and served with glazed baby carrots and a goat’s cheese pastry. A glass of pinot noir paired well, as suggested by our waiter. The red wine cherry sauce offered just the right amount of tartness to balance the rich duck and goat’s cheese pastry. While we didn’t have room for dessert, there were certainly a few dishes that we’d like to come back and try, like the limoncello cream served with strawberries and topped with coconut foam. ■

bistro TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you continue up Kopli street,

The eclectic decor has been carefully selected.

you’ll eventually reach a restaurant by the same name. Kopli restoran/saal or room is what can only be described as a modernday community centre, where you can not only enjoy a good meal, but also visit for various events, concerts, and markets that take place throughout the yearOr hold your own event and rent out a seminar room.

The converted factory space has ample seating both indoors and out, where locals meet for a meal or just a coffee. Indoors, a hodgepodge of tables and chairs invite you to hang out for a bit and watch the neighbourhood go by.

The menu offers everything from breakfast to dinner and everything in between. For breakfast, choose between a selection of porridge, omelettes, or a classic

Location

Try the classic fried breakfast.

fried breakfast. Check their Facebook page for daily lunch specials during the week. The a la carte menu has a mix of European cuisine with a hint of local flavour thrown in. For something quick, the burger is not a bad choice. But if you want to enjoy a few more things, there are some excellent

appetisers and mains to choose from. While we couldn’t taste everything on the menu, we quite enjoyed the salmon carpaccio with avocado-lime cream. Thinly sliced pieces of fresh salmon were beautifully plated together with a refreshing avocado-lime cream sauce. A crisp chardon-

Kopli Restoran/Saal Kopli p 25, Tallinn --------------------Appetisers: €2.50–€7.5 0 Mains: €8–€14 Dessert: €4–€7 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

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Toompea's newest restaurant, Oro Resto.

restaurants

Simple, yet gorgeous bistro fare at Oro Resto.

RESTAURANT NEWS Oro Resto is the latest addition to Toompea and offers a small bistro menu, including a delightful assortment of local fish. Good prices, in addition to a summer terrace make this new place worth a visit.

Looking to cool off? The new gelateria Gelato Ladies offers 20 different flavours of gelato that are made onsite from all-natural ingredients. There is plenty of seating, both indoors in their funky café and outdoors on their summer terrace.

Smoky Saloon just opened opposite from Tallinn University. Just like the name suggests, western-style food is on offer, with everything from wings to burgers, steaks to BBQ ribs. Enjoy local and imported beer on tap or in bottle, as well as weekday lunch specials.

The latest addition to Pärnu’s restaurant scene is Mon Ami, which is connected to the boutique hotel Frost. The Estonian-

Mediterranean menu offers oysters at weekends and a children’s menu as well.

Kolga Manor, which is about 50 km east of Tallinn opened a restaurant offering daily lunch specials.

The restaurant Rondeel at Narva Castle has once again opened for summer. As the name suggests, it’s located in the north tower, right next to the fortress gates. Dishes are local and traditional, including the local speciality, lampreys. ■

Location Oro Resto, Kiriku põik 4a, Tallinn a1.

Gelato Ladies, Uus 28, Tallinn Old Town f3.

Smoky Saloon, Narva mnt 36, Tallinn a3.

Mon Ami, Kuninga 11, Pärnu.

Kolck, Kolga, Kuusalu.

Rondeel, Peterburi tee 2, Narva.

Western-style food is what's on offer at Smoky Saloon.

With so many delicious flavours to choose from, it's hard to actually decide what to try at Gelato Ladies!

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nightlife

Party wednesday nights at Komeet.

IT’S MIDWEEK: Put Away Your Spreadsheets atmosphere of a cosy and luxurious cave.

The cocktails are spot-on, every time; I tried the Hennessy Ginger for a change, and will be doing so again as regularly as I possibly can.

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

S

ummer, in spite of the frequent weather warnings, is not officially over yet, and so it’s time to don the linen shirt, and venture out into the night in search of true love and high adventure. We’ve got places you won’t want to miss in your quest for the best summer night out, and the intriguing thing is, the events take place on Tuesdays and Wednesdays - not your average party nights, though this isn’t your average party city.

Tuesdays are the new Fridays. How do I know this? Because Clazz (Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2), the feelgood jazz bar in the middle of the Old Town, has its weekly Brazilian Night on an evening when most people are contemplating spreadsheets or another Game of Thrones marathon. Denise Fontura is back, the Brazilian singer, a longtime resident of Tallinn, fronting one of the tightest samba and Latin bands you’ll hear on this continent. Clazz, down some, in what seems to have been a cellar at one point or another, and this all brings the

Kohvik Komeet (Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2), PADA, the garden-bar formerly known as Kultuuri Katla Aed.

Clazz - the feelgood jazz bar.

the restaurant owned by celebrity Estonian chef Anni Arro, has been running its signature Wednesday party nights on its sun terrace, on the roof of the Solaris centre, for years now. The current party is beloved by locals for its laid-back nature, with the tables usually full and the sponsor’s champagne flowing all night. Komeet has a nationallyrenowned selection main courses and particularly cakes downstairs, so we’d definitely recommend that you spend time in the restaurant, and then make your way up to the party, to get the full summer experience.

The party is intended as a meeting place for like-minded people, and groups of friends tend to stick together on tables. If you intend to go, our advice is to go in a group, and to book a table if you possibly can. Spaces fill up pretty quickly, so call well in advance.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

13

22.00-06.00 CLUB VIRGINS

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

The Oak Lounge

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

Over on the other side of town is the party that used to take place at Komeet, but has now found a new lease of life, and indeed a new lease, at PADA (Kalasadama 6, Tallinn), the garden-bar formerly known as Kultuuri Katla Aed. When KKA opened in 2012, it was pleasantly rinky-dink, with post-industrial buildings, a hot tub that was occasionally put into use, and various amateur initiatives from theatre workshops through to pizza-making classes being put on in its vast grounds. These days, its replacement is a lot more controlled and a lot more corporate, and while that might not appeal as much to the beard-and-veganism fraternity, PADA now has facilities to rival most other venues in Tallinn.

Since being taken over by a new administration, the garden has become a lot more professional-looking and polished, with various zones including a kind of adult sandpit, a bench area for sitting and enjoying waterpipes, a stage for live bands,

ENTRANCE 10 € COCKTAILS 10 € BEER 4 € COLA 2 €

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Live Music

Chicago 1933

Gentlemen Club

Club Studio

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

CABARET PROGRAM C Tallinn city Burlesque show Tartu mnt. 29 Shower show www.virgins.ee Adult show Tel. +372 5399 3999

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet!

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

and a wide, wood-panelled, terrace that looks stunning on a sunny night. The beer isn’t expensive, though for the Wednesday parties, known as Legendary Wednesday, you will be charged an entry fee. Trust me, it’s worth it when you get in.

I had a great time at the party, and even though there were not many people I knew, it was easy to find the friends who were attending, and also to get to know new people, because everything in this enormous open garden is geared towards encouraging mingling and breaking cliques. That’s why Legendary Wednesday at PADA is truly a night for the ages. ■

✏ STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

www.balticguide.ee

14

shop

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America.

It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

A Medie

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

Here are our ti

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2.

This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

Estonian designed souvenirs at NuNordik.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn lacks a central shopping street like many other European

capitals. If you haven’t explored Tallinn’s Old Town yet, there are many boutiques and high end shops that await the fashionista around every corner. Shopping in Tallinn’s Old Town let’s you see many of the main sights. You’ll also be pleased to know that many shops offer Tax Free shopping and others often offer special discounts.

The area between Pärnu mnt and Harju is where you will find high-end brands like Burberry, Emporio Armani, Jacadi, Marina Rinaldi, and others. If you are looking for something uniquely Estonian, Estonian designed, or simply p y shops p yyou can’t find anyy where else, we’ve compiled a list for you, to help you find just what you are looking for,

or at least some pointers for a self-guided shopping tour of the Old Town.

Estonian Handicraft House –

Authentic Estonian handicrafts by some of the top artisans in the country.

Pikk 22, Tallinn Old Town g2.

Krambude – Medieval souvenirs

from the folks at Olde Hansa.

Vana turg 1, Tallinn Old Town h2.

A-Galerii – Estonian-designed

jewellry.

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town g2.

Nude – Designer clothes, with

everything from Gucci to Ralph Lauren.

Piolo – Handmade shoes from

Pärnu mnt 10, Tallinn Old Town i2.

Suur-karja 3, Tallinn Old Town i2.

Tuscany.

Beaumonde – High end desig-

Funky souvenirs from NuNordik.

ner jewellery from top European b d brands.

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in n the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8..

Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

D’boiss – High quality men’s Ital-

ian footwear.

Suur-Karja 20, Tallinn Old Town i2.

Ivo Nikkolo – Estonian designed

women’s business dress wear.

Suur-Karja 14, Tallinn Old Town i2.

Accademia Boutique – Italian fash-

ion for women.

Rataskaevu 4, Tallinn Old Town h1.

VivianVau – Colourful leather

shoes and bags imported mainly from Italy and Spain.

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn Old Town h1.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

Traditional Estonian handicrafts can be found at the Estonian Handicraft House.

Beautiful jewellery at Freywille.

eval Shopping Trip

ps for a self-guided shopping tour of Tallinn’s Old Town.

Edible souvenirs There is nothing better bet than a food souvenir. Look for Kalev chocolates, kama (a m mixture of roasted barley, rye, o oat and pea flour eaten with buttermilk but as a filling breakfast), dried d fruit crisps, Olde Hansa Hans roasted sweet almonds (you can smell these roasting outs outside of the restaurant), elk mea meat sausage, or black bread. You’v You’ve probably already noticed that Estonians like their beer. A. Le Coq and Saku are the bigges biggest brands, but local craft beer is what you should try. Visit Ko Koht (Lai 8, Tallinn Old Town g1) Not a fan of beer? Look for Vana Va Tallinn liqueur, vodka (Saaremaa (Saar and

Something to read or watch We asked some expats living in Tallinn what their favourite books (fiction or non) were. Here’s what they suggested: ■ My Estonia – Justin Petrone and John Bickerson Bolling ■ Purge – Sofi Oksanen ■ Carrying Linda’s Stones – Suzanne Stiver Lie, Lynda Malik, Ilvi Jõe-Cannon, Rutt Hinrikus ■ War in the Woods – Mart Laar ■ Sentence Siberia – Ann Lehtmets, Douglas Hoile ■ The Singing Revolution – DVD

Viru Valge are the top brands, but many small artisans producers continue to pop up with some great products), or the Soviet era Kännu Kukk (you’ll recognise it from its odd-shaped colourful bottle). Põltsamaa pro-

duces great fruit wines, including Tõmmu (blackcurrant) and Kuldne (apple), which are two sweet wines, perfect for after dinner. (Hää Eesti Asi, Aia 1/ Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town h3) ■

Bastion – Elegant and quality Eston-

ian designed clothing for women Viru 12, Tallinn Old Town h3.

Bonbon Lingerie – Estonian

designer undergarments.

Pärnu mnt 21, Tallinn Old Town i3.

KV Couture Kristina Viirpalu –

Beautiful and unique Estonian designs for women.

Suur-Karja 2, Tallinn Old Town i2.

Nu Nordik – Clothes and jewellery

from young Estonian designers.

Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town j1.

Colourful shoes at Vivian Vau.

15

eve

16

The Sounds This year’s Viru Folk programme 2016 is the year of the Nordic Islands.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS VIRU FOLK, ANDREI CHERTKOV, OLAF OLSEN

The summer’s final ethno-festival

features the year of the Nordic islands. The festival’s director Peep Veedla said that he has travelled through the Nordic islands and found that while they have many similarities, they also have many differences.

“At Viru Folk, you can experience these similarities and differences through the music, as well as through exhibits, films, and lectures”.

Peep Veedla told us that the furthest visitor comes from Iceland. The band Solstafir will perform late Friday night on the main stage. “It’s a collective, who in their home country are quite hot at the moment with many Icelanders following their music”.

“There will be two performers from the Faroe Islands at Viru Folk this year: Eivor, already well-known in Estonia, as well as the authentic mythological viking metal band Tyr. Both will play on Saturday”, explained Peep Veedla.

Ulvens Döttrar and Skrömta will visit Käsmu from Åland. There will also be performers from Estonia’s islands - Kihnu, Muhu, and Vormsi. Estonian Voices, as well as Kihnu Poisid will play.

Children will not be forgotten.

“The back room of the Käsmu Maritime Museum will change into Haldjapere's Storytelling and Craft Group, a fun place for activities where over the three days, kids can listen to fascinating stories, and have fun with arts and crafts”, explained the festival’s spokesperson.

Viru Folk takes place 12-14 August in Käsmu, Vihula. ■

ents

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

17

SUMMER EVENT CALENDAR 2016 AUGUST 1-6 Love Film Festival, Tartu 4-7 Weekend Festival Baltic, Pärnu 5-6 Augustibluus Blues Festival, Haapsalu 5-7 Leigo Moto Festival, Kiviõli 5-7 War History Festival, Valga 6 Seto Kingdom Day, Valga 11-13 Kuressaare Maritime Days, Kuressaare 12-14 Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu 13-21 Birgitta Festival, Pirita Convent Ruins, Tallinn 13-14 Narva History Festival “Battle of Narva”, Narva 13-14 Hauka Fair, Antsla 13 Insomnia – Night of Pärnu Arts, Pärnu 19-21 White Lady Days, Haapsalu 21 Tartu In-line Skating Marathon, Tartu 27 Night of the Ancient Bonfires, all over Estonia FOOD EVENTS & FESTIVALS 4-7 August Café Days, Kärdla 20 August Tahkuranna Pickle Festival, Tahkuranna 20 August Garlic Festival, Ülenurme 27 August Lüübnitsa Onion and Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa 27-28 August “Summer in a jar” Preserves Festival, Narva Castle

of the Nordic Islands features artists from Iceland, the Faroe Islands, and Åland.

TARTU SUMMER EVENTS 2016 ■ 10th Tartu Love Film Festival “tARTuFF” 1–6 August, www.tartuff.ee

■ Estonian Theatre Festival Draama 5–11 September www.draama.ee

■ Emajõgi River Festival 5–6 August www.tartu.ee/emajoefestival

■ Japanese Pop-Culture Festival AniMatsuri 23–25 September www.animatsuri.eu

■ The Food Festival 13 August, www.ettevotlus.tartu.ee ■ Urban Festival UIT 17–20 August, www.uit.ee ■ Garlic Festival 20 August, www.küüslaugufestival.ee

Eivør will perform at this year's Viru Folk.

■ Street Art Festival “Stencibility” 5–11 September www.stencibility.eu

■ Festival of Archaic Arts “RegiÖÖ” 23–25 September www.tartu.ee/regioo ■ Tartu Rally 23–24 September www.tarturally.eu ■ Researchers’ Night Festival 25–30 September www.teadlasteöö.ee

The annual Birgitta Festival has become one of the main cultural events of the summer.

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, andTicketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn b2.

■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2.

■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn b2.

18

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town.

The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets.

Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders.

Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene.

Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants.

Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn).

Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

sightseeing

19 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service.

The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century.

The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life.

For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park.

From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

20

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee.

We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2.

(Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum.

1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee.

01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee.

We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/.

1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18.

1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee.

Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17.

July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

The Museum of Icon Art offers a wonderful tour for both the novice and expert admirer.

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee.

Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

An Unexpected Collection

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

The collection can compete with even the biggest private and European collections.

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee.

Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee.

We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS MUSEUM OF ICON ART

K

nowing nothing about icon art, this museum truly offered a fascinating look into the style. The collection at the museum is by no means small and can compete with even the biggest private and European collections.

The exhibition features over 300 Russian icons dating from the 15th century to the beginning of the 20th century.

What’s particularly fascinating is the wide selection of written works, like manuscripts and religious engravings by Old Believers. By seeing both Old Believers and Russian Orthodox icons side by side, it’s quite easy to see the differences. You will also learn about local masters, like Frolov and Myznikov, as well as look at the works of icon painters like Peshekhonov

who painted for the Tsar’s Palace. Many church utensils are on display like old rite cast copper, religious gravures, and books.

The Museum of Icon Art is open by booking only. You can call or email to book your tour: +372 6410057 or info@ikooni-

muuseum.ee. An adult ticket costs 12 or a family ticket (2 adults + 2 kids) costs 25. ■

Location The Museum of Icon Art Vene 6, Tallinn Old Town g2

getting around

TH BA TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™A A UU GG UU S TS T2 02 10 61 6

21 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Mere pst

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

ÜLEMISTE

Pae Bus Station

VäikePaala

Majaka põik

E-tickets

Marja Tedre

Airport

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

Tondi

3, 4

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

2 4 Ülemiste

Vineeri

Tihase

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

6* From June until September 2016 trams 1 and 2 will not be running due to roadworks.

Bus 52 will offer an alternate route between Kopli-Hobujaama.

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

22

transport

I DE E ™™ A AUUGGUUS ST T 2 20 01 16 6 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso.

A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

P

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots.

The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle.

This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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self-guid

The new bridge in Altja brings you to the seaside.

Under Lahemaa’s Spell Our summertime hike through Lahemaa National Park.

A majestic windmill greets you on your way to Vihula.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, MAP EVE JAANSOO

Lahemaa National Park Tallinna

The warm wind blows against my

face as I step out of the car with our photographer Andrei at the line of linden trees in Palmse. A barn swallow draw circles in the sky. A group of German tourists walk in an orderly fashion towards the gates of the manor house.

Palmse is certainly one of Lahemaa’s most important sights; its history dates back to the 12th century. The yellow manor house sits in line behind the fence and inside its walls you can learn about the lifestyles of its inhabitants.

Nature lovers will quickly make their way to the manor park, where a Common goldeneye duck is protecting her new family in the pond. Behind the park’s lake stand tall pines and deciduous trees. The sounds of a European pied flycatcher can be heard, with a small red-breasted flycatcher in the background.

Signposts indicate the trail with

Some interesting facts ■ Lahemaa National Park was

LAHEMAA

■

the footsteps of the manor lord and lady.

You can spend just an hour at Palmse park and another at the nature centre in one of the outbuildings. The exhibit presents the history of Lahemaa National Park and its nature, where you can take along a map as well.

■

■

■

The narrow asphalt road takes

you to the next point of interest, Sagadi Manor. The magic of Lahemaa is just this, at the beginning you’re in the middle of manor house grounds and suddenly the next moment you’re in the heart of the wilderness or at a beach.

Thatched roofs are also common in Lahemaa.

■

■

established in 1971, it is one of Estonia’s oldest and largest national parks. It was the first national park in the Soviet Union. The area of the park is about 74,800 hectares.

The nature centre is at Palmse Manor. The RMK Forest Museum is located in the outbuilding of Sagadi Manor.

The 375 km-long nature trail stretching across Estonia starts at Oandu.

Lahemaa’s rivers are favoured places for rowing. The rivers are famous for their waterfalls.

Palmse, Sagadi, and Vihula manors are all located within a 15 km area, meaning they are easily visited by bicycle.

Bicycles can be rented from the manors.

Additional accommodation can be found in local farmhouses.

It takes about an hour to get from Tallinn to Palmse by car.

The stairs lead you through the forest.

ded tour

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ AU G U S T 2 0 1 6

27

Net sheds stand in a row in Altja.

These are the symbol of Lahemaa.

You can take your own boat to get to Võsu.

It is certainly more peaceful in Sagadi, as there are no large tourist groups. The grass has grown and small white flowers cover the ground like a carpet. Take a seat by the park’s pond and watch the blue damselflies play at the water’s edge.

The pond teems with life below the surface. Thousands of tadpoles swim among large shoals of fish. Majestic trees surround the pond, including one of Estonia’s tallest oaks (32 m).

The mellow mood of Sagadi soon changes, when the road continues on to the third manor, Vihula. A tall Dutch-style windmill greets visitors.

Vihula smells of pines, due to the

large pine trees that make up the park. There are many other kinds of trees in the park as well, like the Canadian poplar, the biggest of its sort in the Baltics. There are also some stunning oaks, maples, and elms.

There are many interesting buildings at Vihula, like the vodka museum and ice cellar.

The windmill is also worth a visit, which is located just at the edge of the Mustoja waterfall. The soul yearns for the forest, after all, a large part of Lahemaa is forest. Oandu is only a few kilometres from Vihula.

species, like the freshwater pearl mussel and the grayling, a freshwater fish in the salmon family.

The next stop is Altja on the

The stylish interior at Sagadi Manor.

of the aspen. This is perhaps the most beautiful view in Lahemaa.

Rivers are a trademark of Lahemaa; Valgejõgi river on the west side of the park is one of the more well-known. The rivers provide a habitat for some rare

shores of the Gulf of Finland.

The Altja nature trail follows the long coastline and takes you over a hanging bridge to a beautiful sandy beach.

A beach road takes you from the fishing village of Altja to Vergi.

Wooden houses line the street where friendly families wave to passersby - this is Lahemaa in summer.

After the bend, we arrive in Võsu. The new docks are beautiful, but the beach at Võsu is much more stunning. The white sand continues for kilometres.

The old beach club is a reflection of a bygone era, when Võsu was a popular vacation spot. The cute little houses are just a small glimpse at what Võsu would have looked like decades ago.

The day turns into night, leaving much to be explored next time. This place deserves a second visit. ■

The beautiful yard at Vihula.

The beaver dam in Ojandu takes

you into the pine forest, which on hot days reminds me of smells from my childhood. The path continues through the forest.

The beauty of it all leaves you speechless.

A dark stream trickles ahead, which is framed by tall ferns.

Blue dragonflies float over the water. A Eurasian blackcap chirps from the highest boughs

A dark river runs through the beautiful forest.

The stunning Palmse Manor is one of the top attractions in Lahemaa.

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