W
e’re in the perfect position at the right time,” says Kent Rabish, owner of Grand Traverse Distillery, which makes vodka and whiskey in Traverse City. “Right now, the craft distilling industry is where the brewery industry was 25 years ago.” It turns out Michigan is at the leading edge of the national push to rebuild an industry that was—like brewing—virtually destroyed by Prohibition. In 2005, Michigan had just two distilleries, according to the American Distilling Institute. Now it has around twenty, and more open every year. (See sidebar for a detailed guide to the region’s handcrafted spirits.) The proliferation is mirrored nationally, as the industry has grown exponentially from a few dozen producers in 2000 to more than 300 today. Just as with craft brewing, the three West Coast states led the way. But Michigan easily leads the Midwest. A majority of new distilleries around the country are producing just one spirit, but western Michigan and Chicagoland are bucking this trend. Grand Traverse has made vodka and whiskey since opening in 2006, while Journeyman Distillery, the newest addition to southwestern Michigan’s spirits scene, makes vodka, whiskey, gin and rum. Koval Distillery in Chicago produces vodka, whiskey, brandies and liqueurs—all certified organic and with locally sourced ingredients. When it opened in 2008, it became the first craft distillery in the city since Prohibition. “What made America great was making things from scratch. We wanted to revive that,” says Sonat Birnecker. Her husband Robert learned the art of distilling from his Austrian grandfather, and together the couple decided to give up academic careers to start a family business drawing on European traditions. Sales have increased
A variety of whiskies and vodka from Journeyman Distillery.
more than 300 percent in four years, but there have been obstacles to growth. “When we started, I had to go to Springfield [Illinois] and get the laws changed for craft distilling,” says Sonat, sitting in the company’s new office space on Chicago’s North Side. Her lobbying effort followed in craft brewers’ footsteps. Vodka, whiskey and rum at Round “Many of the laws Barn in Baroda. that were changed in their favor have benefited us, or inspired us to change them as well.” The crucial recent victory, in both Illinois and Michigan: legalizing on-site sales of alcohol so that distilleries can open retail spaces. (During the last four years, Michigan has also allowed distilleries to open off-site tasting rooms and allowed Sunday sales.) That’s been a huge boon to craft distillers, who have a hard time getting
How to
drink
locally 4 VISITSHOREMAGAZINE.COM 3
Not knowing which local spirit to try first (or next) is a good problem to have. With an emphasis on whiskey (my favorite) and companies that only make spirits, here’s a quick guide to distilleries in Shore‘s readership area—western Michigan, Northwest Indiana and Chicagoland. Clockwise around the lake:
GRAND TRAVERSE DISTILLERY Traverse City, Mich. Its True North Vodka and Ole George whiskey are made from local rye. Ole George isn’t cheap ($65), but this smooth spicy stuff is worth it. Or head north to sample it in the company’s tasting rooms in Leland or Traverse City. (Another should open in southwestern Michigan by 2014, owner Kent Rabish says.) NEW HOLLAND ARTISAN SPIRITS Holland, Mich. New Holland’s bar and restaurant in downtown Holland was buzzing with life when I visited Labor Day weekend. Try the Zeppelin Bend whiskey, or brand-new beer barrel bourbon, as you take a look at the brewing and distilling set-up.