Winterlife 2013

Winterlife 2013-14 Winter Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Yurts offer a world apart The skiing different at regional resorts Gather ’round the fireplace Dining out for all budgets

The San ta Fe New Mexican | santafenewmexican.com

CENTR AL

TO THESE

Ski Santa fe

•

GREAT RE SortS

Pajari

•

taos

•

Sipapu

Stay with uS and Ski all four!

CASINO • HOTEL • FIN E D ININ G • SPA • GO LF • NI GHTCLU B

505.455.5555

Buffalothunderresort.com

Valid November through March 31, 2014, Not combined with other offers, not available for groups, management reserves all rights 2 Wint erli f e 2 01 3-1 4

The Durango Collection: Native American Weaving in the Southwest, 1860–1880 May 12, 2013– April 13, 2014 Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian In partnership with the Center of Southwest Studies, Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill Santa Fe, NM 87505 www.wheelwright.org Made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts; and several private donors.

Photo by Addison Doty

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

3

There is no law here but the law of man.

It is a time of GOLD. It is a time of CIBOLA.

CIBOLA: SEVEN CITIES OF GOLD

Orlando Dugi • Kenneth Williams It’s In the Details Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill, Santa Fe 505-982-4636•www.wheelwright.org

Exhibitions are made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts; and several private donors.

4

Winter li f e 2 01 3-1 4

0

Case Trading Post Museum Shop Offering the Unique in Traditional and Contemporary Native American Art

Photo by Addison Doty

Visit us today or shop online at www.casetradingpost.com.

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo . Museum Hill. Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.982.4636, ext. 110. www.wheelwright.org Monday-Saturday 10-5 Sunday 1-5

CTPBienvenidos10.indd 1

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

5

4/9/2010 3:03:14 PM

winterguide-SFNM-2013_Layout 1 10/14/13 2:39 PM Page 1

MEDICAL GROUP

Great Care

Everywhere You Need Us S WAIAOrthopaedics &

Breast Institute

490 A West Zia Rd., Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3101

Geriatrics & Internal Medicine 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 116 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-4260

Health Specialists – Los Alamos 2237 Trinity Dr., Unit B Los Alamos, NM 87544 (505) 662-8870

Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-8900

Physicians Plaza of Santa Fe 1631 Hospital Dr., Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 424-0200

Surgical Associates

Orthopaedics of New Mexico 2100 Calle de la Vuelta, Ste. D-103 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 982-5014

Physical Medicine & Rehabilitation Specialists

Health Specialists – Taos 1213 Gusdorf Road Taos, NM 87571 (505) 988-3233

Regional Cancer Center WIN TER 490 A West Zia Rd. Sports Medicine Associates

440 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 250 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 983-2233

IND IAN

Neurosurgical Associates 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 107 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 988-3233

Physicians Plaza of Santa Fe 1631 Hospital Dr., Suite 240 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3975

Urology Associates 1630 Hospital Dr., Suite D Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 982-3534

MARKEWomen’s T Care Specialists 465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 117

Pulmonary & Critical Care Associates

Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-0303

465 St. Michael’s Dr., Suite 209 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-2600

Invested in YOU. NOVEMBER 30 - DECEMBER 1 SANTA FE COMMUNITY CONVENTION CENTER Artist DemonstrAtions, nAtive music & DAnce performAnces, film screenings, youth Activities performAnces by worlD chAmpion hoop DAncer nAkotAh lArAnce!

santafeindianmarket.com . facebook.com/swaia . 505.983.5220 photos by kitty leaken taken at the 2012 swAiA winter indian market 6

Wint erli f e 2 01 3-1 4

Winterlife Publ i sh e d Nov e mbe r 10, 2013

cover photo Kitty Leaken cover design Deborah Villa

owner Robin Martin publisher Ginny Sohn managing editor Ray Rivera

2013-14 Winter Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

inside 8

Fire — heating with wood

editorial creative director Deborah Villa 505-986-3027

Short takes

magazine editor Daniel Gibson copy editor Deborah Paddison

10 Lannan writer series

advertising advertising director Tamara Hand 505-986-3007 marketing director Monica Taylor 505-995-3888 art department Dale Deforest, Elspeth Hilbert advertising layout Rick Artiaga advertising sales Art Trujillo, 505-995-3852 Cristina Iverson, 505-995-3830 Mike Flores, 505-995-3840 Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3892 Stephanie Green, 505-995-3825 nationals account manager Rob Newlin, 505-995-3841 technology technology director Michael Campbell production operations director Al Waldron assistant production director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press manager Larry Quintana packaging manager Brian Schultz distribution circulation manager Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez web digital development Natalie Guillén santafenewmexican.com address office: 202 E. Marcy St. hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday advertising information: 505-995-3852 delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for copies of this magazine, call 505-428-7622 or email rperez@sfnewmexican.com

10 Hot chocolate — yum 12 What’s new at local museums 16 Winter farmers’ market 18

Feast: A trio of food events

Outdoors 22

Snowshoeing: Stepping lightly on mother earth

24

Yurts — A world apart

28 The white room: Ski area guide 34 Winter hiking primer

Arts & culture 40

Galleries forward

42 Classical music galore 44 Timeless ‘Messiah’

Out & about 48 Dining out for all budgets 56 Winter Indian Market 58 Nightlife is my life 60 Winter heroes: Snowplow driver

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

7

Caveman TV brings warmth, fragrance

By Stanley Crawford My first fire of the season in the fireplace is often a dud. Crumple newspapers, lay a rough pyramid of twigs or kindling over the newspapers, construct a second pyramid over the first of larger sticks or small boards, lay a couple of split logs to either side, light. The cold weather has come suddenly, the wood may be damp, there are a dozen other things to be done on the farm, and haste now makes waste. Pyramid two collapses onto pyramid one, essentially extinguishing the hoped-for blaze. If provident, I will have laid in some waxed fire-starter sticks. If not, more newspapers torn into thin strips are draped over the smoldering ruins and lit with a match. Repeat maybe once or twice, always risking completely smothering the timid flames with the ash of the newspapers. Eventually, sooner or later, a fire burns, reluctantly, as if to ask, Why have you awakened me from my long summer vacation?

In the old days, RoseMary and I would go on wood runs up into the Sangre de Cristos, in the El Valle area, or on the slopes of Picuris Peak, and seek out dead and down ponderosa and piñon to load into a succession of old Chevy pickups. Despite balky chainsaws, torn muscles and the extra labor, it was always a gratifying experience to trundle down the highway with a heavy load of firewood to our home in Dixon.

Nowadays, we more usually drive down to Conley’s Lumber in Arroyo Seco, just south of Española, and load up the pickup, preferably with red fir, which burns with relatively little ash. To my mind, piñon is queen of fireplace wood, burning slowly and fragrantly without sparking, and occasionally we afford ourselves that luxury, from reputable individual sellers or from Holguin’s Sawmill in Taos. My second choice is ponderosa, which burns — if completely dry — fast and noisily, with spruce a distant third.

Firewood is sold by the cord, which measures 4 by 4 by 8 feet, or 128 cubic feet. If you’re buying wood by the truckload, pickup beds vary enormously in size, so perhaps the easiest calculation is by cubic feet. In Santa Fe, the venerable Rios Wood Lot, on Camino del Monte Sol between Canyon Road and Acequia Madre, sells piñon, cedar, oak, aspen and pine, delivered in a long-bed full-size pickup, which Socorro Rios informs me equals 80 percent of a cord. You can have your choice of 16-inch or 14-inch logs, to fit the size of your firebox or fireplace. Prices range from $260 to $380 a cord, delivered. The individual sellers

on the Santa Fe roadside lot on Old Las Vegas Highway, just off Old Pecos Trail, offer firewood at competitive prices.

On our farm we have an abundance of cottonwood. A still somewhat green log will hold the fire through the night. When completely dry, cottonwood burns fast and moderately hot, and it has a reputation for burning out fireboxes of wood stoves.

Juniper burns sparky but with a nice fragrance; Siberian elm slowly but with an unappealing smell; locust hot and slow. If offered to choose between a load of apple wood and piñon, I would have trouble making up my mind, as apple also burns slowly with a nice fragrance.

In the early 1970s, we heated our house with two Ashley woodburning stoves — at the time, the only airtight brand available.

Eventually we built an adobe fireplace around a double-wall steel fireplace insert, with an air duct from the outside to the floor of the fireplace to reduce drafts. About five years ago, Ed Lucero, a kayaking friend of our son’s, built an airtight steel-framed glass door for the front of the fireplace, which revolutionized the heat economy of the house. Now we can stoke up the fire in the evening, close the door, shut down the cold air feed, and then wake up to a living room still warm and with enough embers in the fireplace to light a few pieces of kindling and some small logs.

In the depths of winter, we can go for weeks without building a new fire. Creosote buildup is usually dealt with by a dose of cottonwood or with various powders thrown on a hot fire. In the old days we were able to douse the rare flue fire with a few cups of water tossed onto the flames.

Perhaps appropriately, a good load of firewood inspires in me a sensation not unlike hunger, and in stacking wood I feel as if I am laying up something to eat. We “eat” trees like we eat other creatures, animal and vegetable, with a complex mixture of pleasure and guilt. While studying the flames of a fireplace or campfire, perhaps the important thing is to acknowledge the seeming paradox of having to destroy in order to live, a paradox we may never be able to surmount.

On a cold and cloudy winter day, or almost any winter evening, there is something missing without a fire flickering away behind the glass. My first task in the morning or upon returning from a day away is to get the fire going. External combustion attained in the living room, I head for the kitchen for breakfast, for the food that feeds the internal combustion that keeps me warm within.

While studying the flames of a fireplace or campfire, perhaps the important thing is to acknowledge the seeming paradox of having to destroy in order to live, a paradox we may never be able to surmount.

P h oto K i t t y L e a k e n

8

Winter li f e 2 01 3-1 4

and solace on a winter night

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

9

Hot chocolate

Stimulating conversations of a literary leaning

By RoseMary Diaz Launched in 1998, the Lannan Foundation’s Conversation Series is, fittingly, one of the mosttalked-about literary engagements in Santa Fe. Often drawing audiences that fill every seat in the house — the historic Lensic Performing Arts Center — the nationally and internationally recognized poets and writers who converse here take their voices from the page to the stage and are truly the bravest of ink warriors among their contemporaries. Don’t miss this year’s exceptional lineup of Conversations with world-renowned literati, graciously facilitated by other notable writers. In addition, enjoy Lannan’s speakers in its Pursuit of Cultural Freedom series this season.

Here’s a look forward at this winter’s speakers:

By Tantri Wija When the snow starts to fly and fingers and toes get frosty, the kid inside all of us longs for a warm, soothing cup of sweet (or spicy!) hot chocolate to get the circulation going again in defiance of even the coldest high-altitude nights. Santa Fe has a bevy of options for world-class, destination-worthy hot chocolate worth getting out of a warm car for.

Kakawa Chocolate House

1050 Paseo de Peralta, 505-982-0388 www.kakawachocolates.com The distinction of best (and most unique) hot chocolate absolutely goes to Kakawa Chocolate House, a chocolate shop that specializes in historically accurate chocolate elixirs made with herbs, spices and essential oils. A visit to Kakawa is as educational as it is delicious; owner Tony Bennett reproduces some of the world’s earliest chocolate recipes, running the gamut from sweet to spicy to medicinal. Discerning palates will appreciate some of the more exotic flavors of Marie Antoinette’s orange flower–flavored chocolate, while traditionalists will love the sweet American elixir flavored with cane sugar and Mexican vanilla. Drink chocolate the way the Aztecs or Thomas Jefferson liked it, and then pick up some cacao nibs to keep you going on even the most frigid of days.

C.G. Higgins

Retail store: 847 Ninita St., 505-820-1315 Café: 130 Lincoln Ave., Ste. B, 505-983-8654 www.cghiggins.com C.G. Higgins is a fine chocolate and coffee shop that specializes in handmade caramel apples, fine nut brittles and inspired truffles flavored with sea salt, pepper, chile and more. Focusing on traditional hot chocolate, they offer an array of artisanal, Europeanstyle drinking chocolates in flavors like European Dark, Mexican Traditional, Dark Chocolate & Mint and New Mexico Lavender. Check them out at the original location on Ninita Street, or visit the new café on Lincoln Avenue downtown.

Chocolate Maven

821 W. San Mateo Road, 505-984-1980 www.chocolatemaven.com This bakery and brunch hotspot also boasts some of the best hot chocolate in town, including a cinnamonflavored hot chocolate and a less sweet, more grown-up spicy Mayan hot chocolate. Try them with one of the bakery’s flaky chocolate croissants; or, if you’ve got a good excuse to do so (like imaginary guests), pick up one of their divine chocolate cakes.

Louis Alberto Urrea with Michael Silverblatt, Wednesday, Nov. 20. Tijuana-born novelist and author of The Devil’s Highway, Urrea speaks with the host of KCRW’s nationally syndicated radio program Bookworm.

Nothing Personal: The Dark Room Collective Reunion Tour, Thursday, Dec. 12. Featuring founding members Natasha Trethewey, Thomas Sayers Ellis, Tisa Bryant, Major Jackson, John Keene and Sharan Strange. Formed in 1988 in Boston by a group of young African American poets, the Dark Room Collective celebrates its 25th anniversary with this event, which marks the end of the group’s reunion tour.

George Saunders

Bryan Stevenson with Liliana Segura, Wednesday Jan. 15. ACLU Medal of Liberty recipient Stevenson speaks with Segura, a racial justice activist and editor at The Nation. One of the winter’s Pursuit of Cultural Freedom events.

George Saunders with Joel Lovell, Wednesday, Feb. 12. Pastoralia and Tenth of December author Saunders speaks with Lovell, the deputy editor at the New York Times Magazine and a former GQ columnist.

Greg Grandin

Greg Grandin with Avi Lewis, Wednesday, Feb. 26. A New York University professor of history and author of several books on the subject of Latin American politics, Grandin speaks with the award-winning Canadian television journalist and documentary filmmaker. Another Pursuit of Cultural Freedom speakers.

Trevor Paglen with Rebecca Solnit, The Dark Room Collective Wednesday, March 19. Photographer, artist and writer Paglen speaks with Solnit, author of The Faraway Nearby and a regular Harper’s contributor.

Details Tickets are available by phone (505-988-1234), online (www.lensic.com) or at the Lensic Box Office (211 W. San Francisco St.; Monday–Friday, 10 a.m.–4 p.m., or on weekends, from noon to showtime).

Cost: General public $6, with student ID $3. All showtimes 7 p.m.

More information: www.lannan.org 10

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

modern nature

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE AND LAKE GEORGE o c t o B e r

4 ,

2 o 1 3

—

J a n u a r Y

2 6 ,

2 o 1 4

Georgia o’Keeffe, Lake George Barns, 1926. oil on canvas, 21 3/16 x 32 1/16 inches, collection Walker art center, minneapolis. Gift of the t. B. Walker Foundation, 1954

Between 1918 and 1934, Georgia o’Keeffe created an extraordinary body of work inspired by annual seasonal visits to Lake George, new York. Here, o’Keeffe discovered and refined her groundbreaking approach to nature and abstraction. this exhibition showcases artwork produced during her transformative and prolific years at Lake George.

217 JOHNSON STreeT, SaNTa fe, New mexicO 875O1 • 505.946.1000 • OKeeffemUSeUm.OrG

Modern Nature: Georgia O’Keeffe and Lake George was organized by the Hyde collection in association with the Georgia o’Keeffe museum. the national presentation of the exhibition and catalogue have been made possible in part with support from the Henry Luce Foundation and the national endowment for the arts. additional support and related programming were made possible in part by a generous grant from the Burnett Foundation, and partially funded by the city of Santa Fe arts commission and the 1% Lodgers’ tax and century Bank. additional support for the catalogue has been provided by Furthermore: a program of the J. m Kaplan Fund.

upcominG exHiBition: GeOrGia O’Keeffe aNd aNSel adamS: THe Hawaii PicTUreS, openinG FeBruarY 7, 2o14 Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

11

Modern Nature: Georgia O’Keeffe and Lake George

By Arin McKenna

Immerse yourself in world class museums

Storm Cloud, Lake George, 1923 Georgia O’Keeffe Oil on canvas 18 X 30 1/8 (45.7 X 76.5) Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Gift of The Burnett Foundation ©Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

Over its four-plus centuries of Euro-American occupation, it’s become evident that New Mexico’s wealth is not in gold or silver, but in its flourishing cultural and artistic traditions. This cultural appreciation has made New Mexico — and Santa Fe in particular — one of the most artistically diverse and flourishing locales in the nation.

Santa Fe’s many museums celebrate this diversity, offering everything from traditional art forms at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art to cutting-edge work at venues such as the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts and SITE Santa Fe. The Museum of International Folk Art brings global artistic expression to Santa Fe, as does the New Mexico Museum of Art. Many museums host special events in conjunction with exhibits and during the holidays, as well as monthly series ranging from lectures to hands-on art days. Find more information at individual websites, or go to media.museumofnewmexico.org for complete listings for New Mexico state museums. Also pick up the New Mexican’s weekly Pasatiempo and Feliz Navidad magazine (publishing Nov. 24).

STEREOTYPE: Misconceptions of the Native American Museum of Contemporary Native Arts 108 Cathedral Place, 505-983-1777 or www.iaia.edu/museum

Changing Hands: Art Without Reservation 3 / Contemporary Native North American Art from the Northeast and Southeast, Selected Works (through Dec. 31) presents innovative and groundbreaking work by contemporary Indigenous artists who utilize contemporary techniques, materials, aesthetics and iconography to challenge preconceived notions and stereotypes of indigenous art and artists. In STEREOTYPE: Misconceptions of the Native American (through Dec. 31), Cannupa Hanska Luger’s ceramic boom boxes “create a space for observation of Native American stereotypes, exposing the absurdity of fixed labels and identities.” Jacob Meders’ panoramic installation Divided Lines (through Dec. 31) examines the complex misrepresentations of Indigenous peoples in artistic depictions prevalent in 15th- and 16th-century European society. Steven J. Yazzie incorporates sculpture, painting, digital photographic prints and a multi-channel video in his installation The Mountain (through Dec. 31). ARTiculations in Print (Jan. 25–July 31) features prints from the Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts collection and from MoCNA’s permanent collection.

Opening reception Jan. 24, 5–7 p.m.

12

Alligator Pears, 1923 Georgia O’Keeffe Oil on board 9 7/8 X 13 3/4 (25.08 X 34.92) Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Gift of The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation ©Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 217 Johnson St., 505-946-1000 or www.okeeffemuseum.org

Modern Nature: Georgia O’Keeffe and Lake George (through Jan. 26) features 55 works O’Keeffe created at Lake George, New York, a period that coincided with O’Keeffe’s first critical success as an artist. Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams: The Hawaii Pictures (Feb. 7–Sept. 14) is the first exhibit featuring rarely seen Hawaiian-based works by these iconic artists.

Stereotype: The Barrymore, 2013 Cannupa Hanska Luger Ceramic, mixed media 21 x 25 x 14

W inter li f e 2 01 3-1 4

Tako Kichi: Kite Crazy in Japan Museum of International Folk Art

706 Camino Lejo, 505-476-1200 or www.internationalfolkart.org New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más (through Jan. 5) explores how cuisines around the world developed from mixing Old World and New World foods. More than 300 historical objects related to food harvesting, preparation, table settings and utilitarian and decorative implements are displayed in kitchen and hearth tableaus. Let’s Talk About This: Folk Artists Respond to HIV/AIDS (through Jan. 5) is the fourth annual exhibit in the Dale Gunn Gallery of Conscience.

Tako Kichi: Kite Crazy in Japan (through March 23) explores cultural, historical and artistic perspectives of kite-making and -flying in Japan, complemented by a video of kite fights in Japan and in-gallery kite-making.

Brasil and Arte Popular (Nov. 17–Aug. 10) highlights Brazil’s unique and vibrant folk traditions through more than 350 pieces of art, including woodblock prints, colorful folk sculptures, toys, puppets and Tsugaru-style kite painting religious art. The exhibit also Hirosaki, Aomori Prefecture, highlights festival dramas with Tōhoku Region, Japan dance, music and costumes.

Mid 20th century Opening reception Nov. 17, Courtesy of David M. Kahn 1–4 p.m.

A Shop as Unique as the Museum Itself bOOKS

=

GIFtS

=

jewelry

=

cAlendArS

Find something of interest for everyone—jewelry, cards, decorative objects, gifts, the largest selection of O’Keeffe reproductions available, and Words/ Works, a new book of Georgia O’Keeffe quotes.

What’s New in New: Recent Acquisitions Museum of Indian Arts & Culture 708-710 Camino Lejo, 505-476-1250 or www.indianartsandculture.org

Gourd basket 2012 Terrol Dew Johnson Tohono O’odham Gourd and beargrass Museum Purchase 58315 Courtesey Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Photo Blair Clark

What’s New in New: Recent Acquisitions (through Dec. 30) features contemporary Native paintings, monotypes, poetry and sculpture created between 1968 and 2012. Woven Identities (through Feb. 23) honors Indigenous artists of the early 20th century. Although only 45 of the 241 artists are identified, the materials, designs and styles of construction speak to the individuality of these artists. Heartbeat: Music of the Native Southwest (through April 1, 2015) features more than 100 objects relating to Southwestern Native dance and music, including a wide array of contemporary Native music and historical footage of dance performances. Visitors can make their own music in the Heartbeat Recording Studio.

2 1 7 J o h n s o n s t r e e t, s a n ta F e , n M 8 7 5 o 1 5o5.946.1oo1 = okeeFFestore.org

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

13

Window on Lima: Beltrán-Kropp Collection New Mexico Museum of Art

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art

750 Camino Lejo, 505-982-2226 or www.spanishcolonialblog.org Window on Lima: The Beltrán-Kropp Collection (through May 27) features a significant gift to the museum of works collected by Pedro Gerardo Beltrán Espantoso, Peru’s ambassador to the United States from 1944 to 1945, and his wife Miriam Kropp Beltrán. The exhibit advances the museum’s goal of placing New Mexican Spanish Colonial art in context with Spanish Colonial art worldwide. E Boyd, Collecting New Mexico (through Jan. 1) features works that Elizabeth Boyd White collected during 22 years as curator of the Spanish Colonial Arts Society. San Ysidro Labrador (through Jan. 1) consists of works depicting San Ysidro, New Mexico’s beloved patron saint of farmers, from the early 19th century to today.

Saint Paul Peru, 19th Century Oil painting on canvas in frame Wood, gilding, bole and gesso

107 W. Palace Ave., 476-5072 or www.nmartmuseum.org

Renaissance to Goya: Prints and Drawings from Spain (Dec. 14–March 9) is the only American venue for this exhibition of rare prints and drawings from the late 16th to mid-19th centuries. Public opening Dec. 14, 1–5 p.m. Chromatic Fusion: The Art of Fused Glass, featuring Klaus Moje and Emerge 2012: A Showcase of Rising Talents in Kiln-glass (through Jan. 6) celebrate the 50th anniversary of the American studio glass movement. The centerpiece of Chromatic Fusion is Klaus Moje’s The Portland Panels: Choreographed Geometry, consisting of four 6-foot panels and over 22,000 pieces of glass fused together. Emerge 2012 is an international competition sponsored and organized by Bullseye Glass Co., highlighting emerging talents and innovative approaches to working in kiln-formed glass. Back in the Saddle (through Jan. 12) features horse imagery by 20th-century New Mexico artists.

Pablita Velarde Museum of Indian Women in the Arts 213 Cathedral Place, 988-8900 or www.pvmiwa.org

Gathering of Dolls (through spring) features works by Pablita Velarde, Sun Rose Iron Shell, Kay Bennett, Naomi Bebo, Margaret Wood, Jodi Webster, Nani Chacon, Glenda McKay and Rose Simpson that range from Native Barbies to skookum (traditional dolls from the Pacific Northwest), surrounded by works of doll symbols. Opening reception Nov. 29, 5–7 p.m.

Site Santa Fe

1606 Paseo de Peralta, 989-1199 or www.sitesantafe.org

The cover of Old Surehand

by Karl May.

Tall Tales of the Wild West: The Stories of Karl May New Mexico History Museum

Karl May as Old Shatterhand, ca. 1880.

Photo courtesy Karl May Museum, Radebeul, Germany.

113 Lincoln Ave., 505-476-5200 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org Cowboys Real and Imagined (through March 16) blends a chronological history of Southwestern cowboys with the rise of a manufactured mystique. Artifacts include cowboy clothing from Spanish Colonial through contemporary times, an actual chuck wagon, ephemera from the dude ranches and ads that banked on cowboys to sell products. The exhibit is augmented by archival footage, oral histories, musical performances and programming that includes screenings of classic Western movies filmed in New Mexico. Tall Tales of the Wild West: The Stories of Karl May (through Feb. 9), illustrates how German author Karl May’s mythical novels about the American West are celebrated even today in European festivals and theme parks. The exhibit includes first editions of May’s books, photographs illustrating his life, and a 10-minute excerpt from the film Winnetou.

14

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

Design LAB: Next Nest (through Nov. 29) is a juried exhibition featuring new domestic forms and design concepts for furniture, lighting, wall treatments and graphic, interior and textile designs.

SITElab 3: Alan Shields: Maze (Dec. 19–Jan. 12) is a large-scale installation creating an immersive interactive environment. Into the Maze, a film of Stephen Petronio’s dance piece interacting with the monumental work, shows in conjunction with the installation. Feast: Radical Hospitality in Contemporary Art (Feb. 1–May 19) presents the work of more than 30 artists and art groups who have transformed the shared meal into a compelling artistic medium.

francisco de Zurbarán (1598-1664), head of a monk, 1625-64. Drawing, 277 x 196 mm © the trustees of the British Museum

Celebrating authentiC art, history & Culture

NEW MEXICO MusEuM Of art Renaissance to Goya: Prints and Drawings from Spain • December 14, 2013 through March 9, 2014 the presentation of this exhibition is a collaboration between the British Museum and New Mexico Museum of art

MusEuM Of INDIaN arts aND CulturE Heartbeat: Music of the Native Southwest • longterm NEW MEXICO hIstOry MusEuM/PalaCE Of thE gOvErNOrs Cowboys Real and Imagined • closes March 9, 2014 MusEuM Of INtErNatIONal fOlk art New World Cuisine: the histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más • closes april 27, 2014 Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

15

Sa nta Fe Farme r s ’ M ar k e t, w i nte r v e r s i o n

Anybody got any zucchini?

By Stanley Crawford Forty years ago, when RoseMary and I started farming up in Dixon, the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market opening day was the last week in July.

This was when everyone began to realize they had far too much zucchini to use in their own kitchens. The market ran all of three months, shutting down in October, around the time of the first hard frost. Nor was there much variety: no processed foods other than some bootleg jams and jellies and cider, no plants, no eggs, dairy or meat.

All that began to change in the ’80s, when the list of permitted agricultural products expanded yearly to eventually include the full range of goods now available at the Railyard market.

Likewise, over the course of that decade, the market opened earlier in the year and stayed open later, first into November and then December. The first winter markets were held over a couple of Saturdays inside the Sanbusco Market Center, in the central hallway and vacant storefronts, and then more regularly throughout November and December in El Museo Cultural and the old Healy-Matthews building on Cerrillos. Finally, in September 2008, the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market occupied its own airy, sun-filled structure — Market Hall — in the newly dedicated Railyard district.

Pat and Juanita Montoya are among the senior growers at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, having participated for the past 36 years. During the winter, they sell hot and cold cider, dried apples, and jams produced from their own raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, chokecherries, sour cherries and apricots. “Winter markets are much better now that we have our own building,” notes Pat. “Before, with all the moves, people would have to figure out where we were.”

The impetus for the new indoor facility took into consideration that the farming season was lengthening well into winter, due to the advent of inexpensive hoop houses, heat-retaining floating row covers, and crops that could tolerate cold. This helped producers extend their selling cycle and spread their income stream over many additional months.

The consumer has benefited too. Foods usually available at the winter market nowadays include locally grown greens and root crops like potatoes, carrots and turnips, as well as

gene peach

Ed Lobraugh of The Old Windmill Dairy at Santa Fe Farmers’ Market

greenhouse tomatoes and plants, winter squash, garlic, shallots and onions. Also available are processed foods in the form of jams and jellies, ciders, dried chiles, baked goods and salsas, plus dairy and meat products, herbal medicinal goods, and body-care products.

The market moves indoors into Market Hall — which accommodates 52 booths — around the middle of November. Starting with the December markets, farmers will be allowed to bring in products related to their operation, such as arts and crafts. These “holiday market days” run up until the Saturday before Christmas, so customers can do their holiday gift shopping as well.

“What’s special about the holiday markets,” according to Market Manager Paolo Speirn, “is that vendors can sell all the beautiful things they make, not just what they grow.” This might include such objects as Christmas decorations, micaceous clay pottery, holiday baked goods and processed foods, jewelry, photographs and books.

A recent addition to the Market Hall is the Farmers’ Market Shops, which includes the market-run Café Fresh and Gift Shop,

plus outlets for Vivac Winery, Artful Tea, the ChocolateSmith and the shop Gardens. Thus, the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market has matured into a locally based, one-stop shopping destination for its customers, even in the depths of winter.

But progress always comes with a price. There are times in December when I long for the old days of the “zucchini markets,” when winter used to be really winter, and the farming season was intense but short — focused on the summer bounty. But judging from the fact that the winter Market Hall is inevitably packed — including a few tough souls still selling outdoors under the ramada — it’s safe to say that the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market has become a successful yearround reality. Forty years ago, the thought would have been unimaginable.

Come January, the question now among at least a few customers might well be, “Why isn’t there any zucchini at the market?” But no doubt a few farmers are working on this very problem.

The Santa Fe Farmers’ Market in the Railyard (1607 Paseo de Peralta) is open in winter on Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. It is also open on Tuesdays and Saturdays through Nov. 26.

Pat and Juanita Montoya are among the senior growers at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, having participated for the past 36 years. During the winter, they sell hot and cold cider, dried apples and jams produced from their own raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, chokecherries, sour cherries and apricots.

16

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

From Spanish vaqueros to cattle drivers, outlaws, rodeo stars and radio yodelers. Explore the New Mexico roots of cowboys, along with free lectures, performances and classic cowboy movies.

Through March 16, 2014

Cowboys Real and Imagined is generously supported by the Brindle Foundation; Burnett Foundation; Rooster and Jean Cowden Family, Cowden Ranch; Jane and Charlie Gaillard; Albert and Ethel Herzstein Charitable Foundation, Houston; Candace Good Jacobson in memory of Thomas Jefferson Good III; Moise Livestock Company; Newman’s Own Foundation; New Mexico Cattle Growers’ Association; New Mexico Humanities Council; Palace Guard; Eugenia Cowden Pettit and Michael Pettit; 98.1 FM Radio Free Santa Fe; and the many contributors to the Director’s Leadership, Annual Education, and Exhibitions Development Funds.

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 17

By Tantri Wija

The snowy months are for skiing, socializing and, of course, eating. But don’t stop feasting at the holidays — Santa Fe has its very own foodie festivities all winter long. Put on your loosest party dress and bring your appetite for these unique pending winter food fêtes.

Jane Phillips

Turner Caroll Gallery, 725 Canyon Road

Feasting

17th Annual ARTfeast Art so good you can eat it Santa Fe’s art galleries are food for the mind, but in February they become twice as delicious during ARTfeast, a weekend of events including the Edible Art Tour.

The latter is a culinary happening that pairs participating galleries with the city’s best eateries to allow you to imbibe both the culture and the cuisine of the city in one whirlwind evening. Popular with both locals and tourists, the Edible Art Tour is a swanky social event, as the downtown/Canyon Road area becomes a merry parade of people sampling the highlights of the City Different with both their eyes and their mouths. Hot cider and cocoa are available, and galleries may serve wine if they wish.

The 2014 Edible Art Tour takes place on Feb. 21, with 35 to 40 galleries involved.

Galleries are paired with a wide variety of Santa Fe’s most prominent eateries, such as Ostería d’Assisi, La Boca, El Farol, Jambo Café and Whole Hog Café, which provide a varied and exciting tasting of the best of the city’s many cuisines.

Approximately 2,000 people attended the Edible Art Tour in 2013, discussing art between bites of the best curry, chile and chocolate in Santa Fe. This year, the Edible Art Tour will be followed by Fashion Feast, a catered fashion show/party that runs from 8 p.m. until midnight. Mondo Guerra, the winner from Project Runway All Stars, will be the host. The Fashion Feast will feature Guerra’s own line as well as student designs. Free shuttles will be available between downtown and Canyon Road, and between the Edible Art Tour and the Fashion Feast. And it’s all for a good cause; ARTfeast is a fundraiser for ARTsmart, a nonprofit that provides funding for art programs and supplies in Santa Fe public schools, ensuring a legacy of future artists for Edible Art Tours to come.

When: Feb. 21 Where: Downtown and Canyon Road How much: The Edible Art Tour is $35, and the Fashion Feast is $40. A

combination button for both events can be purchased for $70.

Website: www.artfeast.org

courtesy

Inn of the Anasazi 18

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Souper Bowl XX The spirit of competition, one steaming bowl at a time When it’s cold outside, sometimes all you want is the best bowl of soup in town. On Feb. 1, you can try them all at once and decide for yourself. This soup and dessert sampling event, held the Saturday prior to the Super Bowl, serves as a fundraiser for The Food Depot, which provides food to 120 nonprofit food programs in the state.

Participating restaurants set up booths with their soup and/or dessert offerings, and guests vote for their favorite soup, vegetarian soup, dessert and booth.

The Souper Bowl is no quiet tasting room, however; it’s a rowdy, festive affair combining the fun of a pageant with the some of the best food in town. Restaurants compete for the top spot in each category, and, ultimately, for overall Best Soup. During the event, volunteers keep a running tally of the votes. When a restaurant gets seven votes, it scores a “touchdown,” and a little paper football goes up on the scoreboard so guests can keep track of who’s ahead. Winners are announced at the end of the event. “People pay attention to which restaurants are winning and it’s a lot of fun,” explains Sherry Hooper, executive director of The Food Depot. “It’s an event that guests participate in; they don’t watch something happen, they make it happen.”

If that’s not enough competition for you, there is also a silent auction that includes donated jewelry, artwork and gift certificates to local restaurants and businesses. Silent-auction pricing ranges from $25 to $10,000, so there’s something for everyone. Last year, around 1,400 people attended the event. The first Souper Bowl was held in 1994 in the Wild Oats parking lot with five restaurants. These days, 25 to 30 restaurants participate, with Sage Bakehouse providing bread to cleanse the palate and Starbucks serving coffee and tea.

When: Feb. 1, noon–2:30 p.m.

Where: Santa Fe Community Convention Center How much: $30. Tickets go on sale in December.

Website: www.thefooddepot.org

with old man winter Fifth Annual Restaurant Week Seven days in heaven For more than appetizers, visit Santa Fe during Restaurant Week — Sunday, Feb. 23 to Saturday, March 1.

Participating restaurants try to woo new patrons and reward established regulars with specially priced prix-fixe menus offering special deals on the best they have to offer. Though it’s a real bargain, don’t expect dumbed-down food — the menus and specials during Restaurant Week typically display the restaurants at their best, offering a varied sample of the eatery’s specialties and specials. Most of the town’s most popular establishments participate, from haute cuisine destinations like Coyote Café, Luminaria and Ristra to local favorites like Cowgirl BBQ and Bert’s Burger Bowl. There is enough variety in both cuisine and price point to make this the week you decide not to bother buying groceries.

Restaurants can offer a variety of deals: two for $25, or $20/$30/$40 per person prix-fixe choices. Prices include a minimum of three choices and three courses, guaranteeing a wide sampling of offerings and a different dinner for you every night. Besides meals, Restaurant Week also offers special events during the day, including chef-led cooking classes and demos in their restaurants and bartender-stirred mixology classes, allowing people a chance to meet the professionals in a more personal way. There is also a sweepstakes on the website with prizes such as free dinners and hotel nights.

When: Feb. 23–March 1 Where: All over Santa Fe How much: Varies by restaurant Website: santafe.nmrestaurantweek.com

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

19

R

PE t ou s & tD oo

Bo o LE Ks Ct & uR Es

santafe newmexican .com/CALENDAR

You turn to us.

20

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

NEW LISTINGS DaILy

Liv & EM Ni u gh siC tL ifE

gA LL & ERi Mu Es sE uM s

th E & AtE DA R NC E

Co MM Ev uN EN i t y ts

Accessories, Reproductions, Antiques and Textiles

From Southern Europe and the Americas Antiques, Reproductions & Custom Furnishings fr om Souther n Eur ope and the Americas

MEDITERRANIA 222 Galisteo Street (between Water & Alameda) Customer parking available in the back

989-7948 • www.MediterraniaAntiques.com

150 Washington Ave. • Santa Fe • 505.983.9103

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

21

stepping lightly Story By Whitney Dreier photos by Ellen miller-goins Sure, there’s a certain thrill associated with alpine or backcountry skiing, and a special serenity that comes with cross-country skiing.

But let’s face it — there are just some places where skis aren’t practical.

That’s where snowshoes come in handy. Whether you need to wander out to your mailbox in 2 feet of powder, summit Baldy in January or qualify for the U.S. National Snowshoe Team, snowshoes facilitate your movement through snow by gripping, floating and stabilizing.

According to a recent study by SnowSports Industries America, more than 4 million people nationwide snowshoed last winter, topping the number of cross-country skiers by about 722,000. Why? In addition to the practicality factor, Geoff Goins, owner of the Enchanted Forest XC Ski and Snowshoe Area in Red River, points out, “Many people simply don’t like sliding.” Goins is referring to the major difference between skiing and snowshoeing: The latter is all grip, no glide. “Anyone can do it,” he says. “You just need stamina.”

“If you can hike, you can snowshoe,” agrees Kristen Peterson, race director of the Santa Fe Snowshoe Classic, a 4-mile event off Hyde Park Road that attracts expert racers and novices alike each January.

This winter, a few hundred New Mexicans will compete in similar events (see list, following), but many more will take a recreational approach to the sport, hiking snow-packed trails or creating new backcountry routes. “You will stay away from crowds, you can take your dog with you, and it’s inexpensive,” says Amaya Chalker of Alpine Sports, which rents snowshoes for both adults and kids. “It is a great cardio workout and great overall exercise; snowshoeing is good for your mind and body.”

Generally, racing snowshoes are smaller and lighter than mountaineering snowshoes and can be worn for any activity, so long as you’re on hard-packed trails. You’ll want to upgrade to the bigger, heavier mountaineering snowshoes if you often find yourself in fresh powder. Either way, you’ll enjoy snowshoeing more if you have a high aerobic capacity. Snowshoeing is more difficult than regular running or hiking because your body must learn to move and breathe with a few extra pounds awkwardly strapped to your feet. Start slowly and find a rhythm. Don’t expect to go as fast as you’d normally walk or run, especially if you’re making first tracks through deep powder.

“After buying or renting your equipment, snowshoeing is very inexpensive or free,” Chalker notes. Snowshoe in clothes that you normally wear for regular hiking or running, but keep in mind that your body is likely to heat up faster while snowshoeing. Do not overdress, and wear layers that come off easily. Wear winterized boots if you’re hiking and trail runners if you’re racing. Pair either with gaiters to keep snow and ice out of your socks. Sunblock and lip balm protect your skin, and sunglasses shield your eyes from bright snow and also improve your depth-of-field vision. Poles and hydration packs are optional accessories that some snowshoers might find helpful.

After sorting out your gear, the next step is finding a venue. “The most popular trails for snowshoeing around Santa Fe are usually hiking trails,” says Chalker, who advises carrying a map, compass or GPS. “Aspen Vista is the most popular one, followed by Winsor to La Vega, Nambe Lake or Ravens Ridge.” Also be sure to check out the following local events:

22

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

on mother earth Snowshoe Race Clinic & Fun Run – Dec. 7-8

If you’re considering snowshoe racing, Laurie Lambert’s clinic, held at the Enchanted Forest Cross-Country Ski and Snowshoe Area (EFXC) in Red River, is one not to miss. Lambert, a part-time Red River resident and former member of the U.S. National Snowshoe Team, walks you through the basics — everything from what to wear to how to run — and then she takes you out on the trails for one-on-one instruction. www.enchantedforestxc.com

Full Moon Night Snowshoe – Dec. 14, Jan. 18, Feb. 15, March 15 Traverse the Valle Grande — 3 miles of rolling terrain in the middle of the 89,000-acre Valles Caldera National Preserve — or climb peacefully through mountain forests by moonlight. Wander along the east fork of the Jemez River to spot elk, coyotes and bald eagles. Passes ($15) and rentals are available at the Valle Grande staging area. www.vallescaldera.gov

Luminaria Ski & Snowshoe Tour – Dec. 25

Make snowshoeing part of your holiday experience at the Enchanted Forest’s luminaria tour. Farolitos are placed along a 3K loop and light your way through the darkness. If you fall in love with the trails, spend the night in EFXC’s cozy yurt. Then, get up the next morning and snowshoe some more. Situated at 10,000 feet, EFXC offers more than 18 kilometers of forested snowshoe trails; snowshoe and boot rentals are available. www.enchantedforestxc.com

Santa Fe Snowshoe Classic – Jan. 4

The Norski Track Ski Trail, off Hyde Park Road (State Highway 475) near Ski Santa Fe, is home to the Santa Fe Snowshoe Classic, a 4-mile race organized by the Santa Fe Striders running club. The course, situated at about 10,000 feet, rolls through aspen and pine forest on a well-marked singletrack trail. “It is a friendly race, with great camaraderie and locally made pottery for prizes,” says race director Kristen Peterson, who notes that you don’t have to be an advanced snowshoer to participate.

“Although we have some serious racers, most people alternate jogging and hiking the course.” www.santafestriders.org

Sandia Peak Snowshoe Race – Jan. 18

The Sandia Peak Snowshoe Race, in the Cibola National Forest, is Albuquerque’s only organized snowshoe event. The 5K route sits at 10,678 feet and offers spectacular views of the Duke City, the Rio Grande and the Turquoise Trail. The 12th annual event will be capped at 150 participants, so sign up early. The $30 entry fee includes a long-sleeve T-shirt and postrace refreshments. www.sandiasnowshoe.com

Chama Chile Ski Classic – January TBA

“The Chama Classic is a multi-day, multi-sport, multi-discipline event,” explains Kevin Brennan, blogger at www.HighDesertDirt.com. “The organizers do a terrific job, and it doesn’t hurt that the un-official event base camp is the High Country Saloon, which serves big steaks and has several dozen area microbrews on tap.” The snowshoe portion of the mostly skiing-filled weekend is on a groomed trail.

Low O2 Challenge – Jan. 26

If you attend the snowshoe race clinic at Enchanted Forest, put your knowledge to use at the Low O2 Challenge, which offers both 5K and 10K races. Overall and age-group winners in the 10K qualify for the U.S. Snowshoe Association National Championships, held in Vermont in March. www.enchantedforestxc.com

Mount Taylor Winter Quadrathlon – Feb. 16

Bike, run, cross-country ski and snowshoe your way 4,770 feet up Mount Taylor. “Now in its 31st year, it is the established test piece for serious athletic types,” says Brennan. “The Quad was started by legendary UNM

ski coach Klaus Weber, who still participates in the event planning.” www.mttaylorquad.org

Buying and renting snowshoes

Trying on snowshoes is like trying on any other shoes: If possible, test several pairs to find the best fit and feel for you. Most snowshoes cost between $100 and $300; if you’re on the fence about spending that much money, consider renting snowshoes first to see if you really enjoy the sport.

The following stores rent and sell snowshoes locally: • Alpine Sports 121 Sandoval St., 505-983-5155, www.alpinesports-santafe.com • REI Santa Fe 500 Market St., Ste. 100, 505-982-3557, www.rei.com • Santa Fe Mountain Sports 1221 Flagman Way, 505-988-3337, www.santafemountainsports.com • Ski Tech Santa Fe 905 S. St. Francis Drive, 505-983-5512, www.skitechsantafe.com

Anatomy of a Snowshoe

Binding: The device that attaches your shoe to the snowshoe. Bindings should be tight for maximum energy transfer. Bindings are often rubber, fabric or Velcro straps, although Boa (wire) closures are becoming more common.

Crampons: The jagged traction devices found under the toe, ball of the foot or at the heel. They help the snowshoe gain traction on steep or slippery slopes.

Also referred to as cleats.

Decking: The flat surface of the snowshoe that attaches to the frame, which allows you to walk on top of the snow by spreading your weight across a greater surface area. Snowshoes of yore used rawhide lacing as decking, but today manufacturers prefer plastic or synthetic materials.

Direct mount: Attaching your shoe directly to the snowshoe (no bindings necessary). Before you screw ’em on there, make sure you’ll be happy wearing the same shoes all season and that you don’t need those shoes for anything else.

Flotation: The ability of a snowshoe to keep the user on top of the snow.

Frame: The aluminum skeleton of the snowshoe to which the decking attaches.

Tail: The back of the snowshoe (behind your heel).

Tip: The top of the snowshoe (in front of your toes).

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

23

Land of the Yurts

a world apart Grouse Creek yurt overlooking the distant San Luis Valley

Story by Daniel Gibson | Photos by Kitty Leaken Two and a half hours north of Santa Fe lies a world apart, the realm of the southern San Juan Mountains. Here, amidst dark forests of spruce and aspen, sunlit meadows and towering peaks, is a place few people visit in summer, and even fewer visit in the depths of winter, when temperatures commonly reach below zero and snow buries the frozen land.

Scattered across this beautiful landscape are four yurts owned and operated by Doug MacLennan and his company, Southwest Nordic Adventures. The yurts, round canvas-covered structures of Mongolian origin with raised wooden floors, provide skiers with secure and comfortable refuges from which to explore this winter wilderness. Several years ago, I, photographer Kitty Leaken and Santa Fe resident Steve Tanner made a foray into this icy locale, spending two nights in the company’s Grouse Creek yurt.

We set off from the trailhead near Cumbres Pass on Colorado State Highway 17 just over the Colorado line, some 14 miles north of Chama, on old cross-country waxed and waxless skis and alpine touring equipment. The sun was out — in fact, we began to work up a sweat — and the day young, yet even then the thought struck me that navigating the route in a storm or low light might be scary and difficult.

Since establishing his first yurt in 1987, MacLennan has carefully marked 24

all the routes with blue-painted plywood squares tied to tree limbs and 6-foot poles driven into the snowpacked meadows. In the woods, the trail made by previous skiers was always discernible; but on the wind-swept meadow bottoms, it was often obliterated for lengthy sections. Instructions on the yurt website state that you should be competent with a compass and topographic maps, and that route-finding skills are needed. We had such skills, but even so, we were grateful we were not out in a storm.

“Every season has its set of tales,” admits MacLennan, touching upon the sensitive subject of getting lost. No one has ever perished, but in the past some parties were forced to bivouac overnight. More commonly, people trek back to their cars at night, their headlamps glowing in driving snow.

The afternoon had cooled to a frosty 20 degrees as we tromped up to the Grouse Creek yurt, covering 4.1 miles and 1,000 feet of vertical gain. That doesn’t sound like much, but, fatigued, we all whooped with joy when at last we rounded a bend and spotted the yurt sitting at the edge of a meadow, its pointed top barely protruding above the snow.

“People are often fooled by how much effort it takes to cover such distances carrying a pack,” notes MacLennan. Indeed. We were pooped, but Tanner quickly had a fire going in the yurt’s excellent Regency woodstove, its glass front glowing a reassuring orange and red, the popping sounds telling us we

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

would survive this night just east of the Continental Divide.

We ate some snacks, rested and warmed up. Restored, Tanner and I decided to go out and look for some turns, and we re-donned our clothing.

With the inside temperature now at 64 degrees and 2 below zero outside, it felt like we were preparing for a space walk or an excursion an astronaut will take one day on Mars, leaving the security of our pod.

We worked our way up, found an opening in the old-growth forest and dropped gently down into a little clearing, where we each had eight or so fine turns in a foot of light powder before the terrain flattened out. It put a smile on our faces and made all the effort worthwhile. I thought to myself that at a ski area, one would take such turns for granted. But out here, each set was savored, discussed and filed away in the memory banks.

The next day dawned clear as a dazzling sun rose over the Sangre de Cristo Range of southern Colorado. We emerged from the yurt to gaze, transfixed, at the sight. To the northeast rose massive Blanca Peak, Colorado’s fourth highest, at 14,345 feet. A portion of the huge San Luis Valley lay at our feet, harboring farms, fields and the town of Alamosa. Close behind us, cliffs towered upward, marking the east-facing base of Jarosa Peak.

After breakfast we headed out, seeking turns. The treeless slopes at the base of the Jarosa ridge, running more than a mile and holding numerous chutes and bowls, beckoned. Under certain conditions — lots of fresh snow over a frozen base — these slopes could slide, but a recent warm-up and little new snow meant it was stable, so we climbed upward until it rose too steeply for our comfort levels. Getting hurt out here would require a complex rescue operation, so we played it safe. The snow was excellent, with just a hint of sun crust under 3 to 4 inches of wind-deposited fluff, and perfect for carving.

We climbed up, turned and skied down, making six or eight or even a dozen linked turns, then climbed again and skied down, working our way across the slope, over and over, until our legs were shaking and hunger called us in for a break.

That afternoon, after fueling up and a brief nap in our warm nest, we emerged again to sample the deeper powder in the forest below the yurt.

The terrain was flatter and turns harder to find, but each one was like a hieroglyphic etched in white that said, “We Are Grateful.”

That night, after a good meal, I bundled up and stepped outside to look at the stars. I don’t recall ever having seen such a dazzling array of night lights. But the cold was punishing, and I could do little more than scan the constellations I know and note Mars glowing reddish-orange overhead. The view reminded me of how unimaginably vast the universe is. ➤

The lower flanks of Jarosa Peak provides some nice turns for Steve Tanner.

Yurt sweet yurt provides basic but comfortable accommodations.

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

25

SEVENTH RAY SKIN CARE Renew and Refresh for the Holiday Season 2019 Galisteo St. N8, SF, NM • Enzyme treatments • Microdermabrasion • MicroCurrent Lifting • Signature Triple Firming Facial

www.seventhrayskincare.com

505.982.9865

Schedule any treatment over $100 before December 24th and receive a complementary hand treatment (value $25)

Ask about our Gift Certificate special

Featuring quality toys and games from fair-labor manufacturers in America, Europe and ports around the world Monday - Thursday 10 - 5ish Friday & Saturday 10 - 5:30ish Sunday 12 - 4ish

Plaza Mercado • 112 W. San Francisco St. • Suite 212-C • 982-9373

Details Each of the four Cumbres Pass yurts sleeps a maximum of six people (though four is far more comfortable). Pillows, mattresses and clean mattress covers are provided, as are all cooking pots, dishes, utensils and a three-burner propane stove. Water is melted from snow on the stove, so guests need to bring only food, clothing, ski gear and sleeping bags.

Trails and terrain: The Neff Mountain yurt is 2.75 miles from the trailhead

— the shortest approach distance of the Cumbres yurts — with a gain of 600 vertical feet. There is some fine skiing off the north and east flanks of nearby Neff Mountain. The Flat Mountain yurt is 4.5 miles in, with a vertical gain of 1,080 feet. It offers 2,500- to 3,000-vertical-foot descents into the Chama River Valley and skiing off the high ridge running between Cumbres Pass and Wolf Creek Pass. The Trujillo Meadows yurt is 4.1 miles in, with a vertical gain of only 380 feet. This yurt is appealing to beginner and novice skiers. The Grouse Creek yurt is also 4.1 miles in, with a vertical gain of 1,000 feet.

In addition to the Cumbres Pass yurts, MacLennan also operates a doublesize yurt at Bull of the Woods, accessed from Taos Ski Valley, that can accommodate 10 people. It is 2 miles in, with a steep vertical gain of 1,500 feet. Advanced and extreme skiing terrain lies just out the door.

The Cumbres yurts rent for $85 per night Monday to Thursday, $100 on Friday and Sunday and $125 on Saturday. The Taos yurt is $100 per night Monday to Thursday, $125 Friday and Sunday and $145 on Saturday. For additional fees, MacLennan can also serve as your guide and cook.

The season runs from late November into April. The yurts are typically booked well in advance every weekend, particularly the Bull of the Woods and Neff Mountain yurts. Most are available on short notice on weekdays. Additional details on what to bring, trail descriptions and other information is found on the company website, www.

SouthwestNordicCenter.com, or by phone at 575-758-4761.

In the Allegro Center 2008 St. Michael’s Drive, Santa Fe Phone: (505) 473-1901 www.frontierframes.net 15% OFF Custom Framing

Please Present this Coupon With Order.

Not Valid With Any Other Offer, Work in Progress, Special Orders or Gift Certificates Expires 12/31/2013

26

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

David Russell

SFCA THE SANTA FE CONCERT ASSOCIATION 2013-2014 PERFORMANCE SCHEDULE

Joyce DiDonato

November

Family Concert Series: SFCA EPIK Artists November 17, 2013

December Ballet Next

Donnell Leahy & Family Celtic Holiday Concert December 2, 2013 The King’s Singers December 6, 2013

Claire Huangci

Family Concert Series: Christmas Eve Dress rehearsal December 24, 2013 Christmas Eve with The SFCA Orchestra and Caroline Goulding December 24, 2013

Curtis on Tour

Family Concert Series: New Year’s Eve Dress rehearsal December 31, 2013

New Year’s Eve with The SFCA Orchestra and Claire Huangci December 31, 2013

January

Family Concert Series: The Barber of Seville Dress Rehearsal January 8, 2014

Opera The Barber of Seville January 10, 2014 January 11 & 12, 2014

March

David Russell, guitar March 7, 2014 Notes on Music Mendelssohn March 11, 2014 Family Concert Series: Curtis on Tour Chamber Music March 18, 2014 Curtis on Tour Chamber Music March 19, 2014 Joyce DiDonato March 31, 2014

Notes on Music The Sing-Along of the Nibelung January 16, 2014 Family Concert Series: Mozart and Mendelssohn violin concertos January 26, 2014 4:00pm

April

2013 Van Cliburn Gold Medalist Vadym Kholodenko April 1, 2014 Ballet Next, Stars of ABT and other companies April 25 & 26, 2014

For more information, go to SANTAFECONCERTS.ORG

TICKETS: 505.988.1234 Vadym Kholodenko

The King’s Singers

Caroline Goulding

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

27

the skiing different

Exceptional snow & sunshine create unique experience

Taos Ski Valley

By Daniel Gibson Skiing is not the first thing out-of-staters associate with New Mexico, which makes it tough on our ski areas to make it financially. On the other hand, it leaves those in the know with untouched powder days after a storm, and the blessing — in an increasingly crowded world — of some solitude when we ski or board.

This sense of isolation, of being in nature one-on-one, is one of the factors that makes skiing in the Land of Enchantment so unique. What else distinguishes our ski scene?

One of the most important New Mexico characteristics is the snow itself.

Not all snow is created equal. In our generally dry region, snow falls with a shockingly small percentage of actual water in it, giving us some of the lightest, fluffiest, easy-to-ski powder in the world. Utah coined the term first, “The Greatest Snow on Earth,” but New Mexico’s is arguably better.

Being a southern state, and located on the fringes of three deserts — the Chihuahuan, Sonoran and Great Basin — we also enjoy abundant sunshine.

Even when the air temperature is below freezing, protecting said powder noted above, if you find a spot in the sun protected from wind, you can often almost get a tan here in midwinter. Try that at Jackson Hole or even in neighboring Colorado, where one might not see the sun for weeks.

Altitude is also another attribute of the regional scene. Our ski areas start at the elevations at which many more northerly resorts top out. In fact, Ski Santa Fe had, for many years, the highest lift-served skiing in North America. The altitude can pose problems for some flatlanders coming quickly to elevations of 12,000 feet or higher, but the low air temperatures that come with high altitude protect our snow base. And, on the flip side, descending to Santa Fe, Taos or Albuquerque, you can enjoy mild winter temperatures, snow-free roads and abundant sunshine almost every day.

Culture is another important aspect of our ski scene, both on and off the slopes. Where else but Taos Ski Valley does one find a blend of European style 28

and sensibility with the subtle influence of its Taos Pueblo lift operators, its Hispanic staff, the delicious red-chile enchiladas waiting for lunch and its remnant hippie-era holdouts? Search high or low for this odd and exciting mix of peoples elsewhere in the nation’s ski community and you’ll come up emptyhanded. And, this same mélange has resulted in one of the country’s most exciting, fertile and diverse art scenes, from art shows and dance performances to exceptional dining opportunities, which means your off-slope time here can be almost as enticing as the feathery powder on our mountains.

Did I mention adventure? New Mexico’s ski pioneers were not cut from corporate cloth. They settled here and launched risky ski operations because they were strong and independent souls. They avoided the cookie-cutter formulas for ski resorts and instead focused on offering truly challenging skiing. Taos helped pioneer extreme skiing, dropping the ropes on its hike-to terrain decades before most resorts caught on to this trend, and folks have been dropping out of Ski Santa Fe into Big Tesuque Basin and down to the ski area access road for many years. The resort even used to run a shuttle van from the collection point back to the lifts, but insurance concerns led to its demise.

I could go on and mention people like Jean Mayer, founder of the St. Bernard Lodge in Taos; Ski Apache, the nation’s southernmost major ski areas, which is owned by an Indian tribe; the diversity of resorts, from tiny Sipapu and the Texan retreat of Red River to internationally renowned Taos; the easy proximity of resorts to cities (does it get any easier than riding the tramway from Albuquerque to the summit of Sandia Peak?); and the easygoing, funloving and down-to-earth locals who frequent our ski areas. But, I urge you to get out and experience this all for yourself, and draw your own conclusions.

What is it that most appeals to you about New Mexico’s ski scene? Please let me know at dbgibson@newmexico.com, and I’ll report your comments in one of my “Snow Trax” columns in The New Mexican this winter. Until then — think snow!

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Angel Fire

Ski Santa Fe

64

GRANDE

El Prado 68

Taos Pueblo Taos

Shady Brook

Angel Fire Valle Escondido 434

From Taos

Black Lake

The New Mexican Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

Cristo Mountains

Arroyo Seco

29

ar

ro

Agua Fria

San gre de

RIO

25

B143

Arroyo Hondo

Cr i sto M ountains

er

iv

Valdez

64

e ng

Santa Fe R

Santa Fe

522

Eagle Nest Lake Cim

Ra

475

www.angelfireresort.com 800-633-7463 Snow report: 800-633-7463 Scheduled season: Dec. 13 to March 23 Distance from Santa Fe: 94 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two surface lifts servicing 74 downhill trails (24 percent expert, 50 percent intermediate, 26 percent beginner) and groomed Nordic trails.

Lift tickets: Adult ages 18-69 full day $66, half day $49; teens 13-17 full day $56, half day $42; juniors 7-12 full day $46, half day $36; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 70 and older. Night lift ticket $24.

Nordic daily passes: $10, snowshoe pass $6, sledding $5. Value packages and military and other discounts are available.

Elevation: 8,600 feet at base; 10,677 feet at summit; 2,077-foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 210 inches, snowmaking on 52 percent of the mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program, Nordic center with 15 km of trails and rentals, multiple terrain parks for all levels — including all new Powder City Park, tubing hill, sledding, snowshoeing and state’s longest zip line.

Childcare: Day-care center and children’s ski school.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Take U.S. 64 east to N.M. 434, and follow this south to the resort.

n

Tesuque

Angel Fire Resort

Taos Ski Valley

Santa Fe Ski Basin

San gre d e Cris

84 285

www.skitaos.org 800-347-7414 Snow report: 575-776-2291 Ext. 2202 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 6 (Nov. 28-Dec. 20, Thursday through Sunday) Distance from Santa Fe: 90 miles Travel time: Two hours Lifts and runs: 11 chairlifts and three surface lifts servicing 113 trails (51 percent advanced, 25 percent intermediate, 24 percent beginner).

Elevation: 9,207 feet at base; 11,819 feet at summit; 12,481 feet with a hike to Kachina Peak; 2,612-foot vertical drop (lift-served).

Lift tickets: Adult full day $77, half day $64; teens 13-17 full day $67, half day $49; children 7-12 full day $47, half day $39; seniors 65-79 $67 full day, $49 half day; free for children ages 6 and under (with a paying adult) and those 80 and older; seniors 70 to 79 qualify for a $185 pass for the season.

Annual passes, Taos Card and other discounts available.

Prices reduced Nov. 28-Dec. 20 and March 31-April 6.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 305 inches, snowmaking on all beginner and intermediate slopes.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, retail shops, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and terrain park.

Childcare: Kinderkafig Children’s Center day care and ski and ride school.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 north through Taos. Take N.M. 150 to Taos Ski Valley.

to Mount ains

Pojoaque

Taos Ski Valley

de

www.skisantafe.com 505-982-4429 Snow report: 505-983-9155 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 6.

Distance from Santa Fe: 16 miles Travel time: 30 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two conveyor lifts servicing 77 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner).

Elevation: 10,350 feet at base; 12,075 feet at summit; 1,725-foot vertical drop.

Lift tickets: Adult ages 21-61 full day $69, half-day $54; teens 13-20 full or half day $54; children 12 and under and seniors 62-71 full day $49; free for children under 46 inches tall and seniors 72 years and older. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 225 inches, snowmaking on 50 percent of the mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, retails shops, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and freestyle fun park.

Child care: Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center day care and snow-sport school, Children’s Adventure Land.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take Washington Avenue to Artist Road and turn right. Artist Road becomes Hyde Park Road (N.M. 475); follow it to the top of the mountain.

Sa ng re

Ski Santa Fe

Angel Fire

Black Lake 120

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Enchanted Forest

Pajarito Ski Area CR-1

502

White Rock

Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

64

Bandelier National Monument

AN DE

4

RIO

Questa

Red River Ski Area Red River

Pojoaque

Los Alamos

38

Wheeler Peak Village

30

522

eV idal

FR-601

84 285

www.redriverskiarea.com 575-754-2223 Snow report: 575-754-2223 Scheduled season: Nov. 27 to late March (weekends only until mid-December) Distance from Santa Fe: 110 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Three triple chairs, two doubles and two surface lifts servicing 57 trails (30 percent advanced, 38 percent intermediate, 32 percent beginner).

Lift tickets: Adult full day $66, half day $51; teens 13-19 full day $60, half day $46; juniors 4-12 full day $50, half day $37; seniors 65-69 full day $50, half day $37; free for children age 3 and under and seniors 70 and older. Group rates for 20 or more skiers and other discounts available — call area or visit web site.

Elevation: 8,750 feet at base; 10,350 feet at summit; 1,600-foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 215 inches, snowmaking on 85 percent of the mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants.

Childcare: Day-care center.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 north through Taos, then N.M. 522 to Questa, turn right (east) on N.M. 38.

Va ll

eV idal

Española

Red River Ski Area

GR

From Taos

Tao s

578

Jemez M ountains

From Taos

Red River

Tao s

Questa

Enchanted Forest

Va ll

522

Mountains

www.enchantedforestxc.com 575-754-6112 Snow report: 575-754-6112 Scheduled season: Mid-November to late March Distance from Santa Fe: 120 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Trails: Up to 33 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails (5 percent expert, 20 percent advanced, 50 percent intermediate, 25 percent beginner), plus 18 kilometers for snowshoeing and 5 kilometers where dogs are allowed.

Trail passes: Adult full day $18, and afternoon only $14; seniors 62-69 and teens 13-17 $15; 70 and over free; children 7-12 $9. No charge for 6 and under and over 70.

Three-day-plus discounts at $12 per day.

Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 10,040 at summit; 400-foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 240 inches, no snowmaking.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, snack bar, warming hut, rental yurt, midway day lodge.

Childcare: None.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Proceed north on N.M. 522 to Questa and turn onto N.M. 38 heading east to Enchanted Forest, three miles east of Red River.

www.skipajarito.com 505-662-5725 Snow report: 505-662-5725 Scheduled season: mid-Dec. to March 31 Distance from Santa Fe: 45 miles Estimated travel time: One hour Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts (including two newly rebuilt after fire damage) and one surface lift servicing 40 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner).

Lift tickets: Adult full day $62, half day $42; teens 13-17 full day $52, half day $33; children 7-12 $35, half day $28; seniors 65-74 $52, half day $33; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 75 and older. Season passes and other discounts are available.

Elevation: 9,031 feet at base; 10,441 at summit; 1,200foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, cafe, Adaptive Ski Program, accessible to Nordic trails, terrain park.

Childcare: None Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos.

Follow signs to the ski area.

Mountains

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Enchanted Forest Cross Country and Snowshoe Area

578

38

Wheeler Peak Village Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

64

The New Mexican 30

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Sipapu

Sipapu Ski Resort

www.sipapunm.com 800-587-2240 Snow report: 800-587-2240 Scheduled season: Nov. 16 to mid-April Distance from Santa Fe: 60 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Lifts and runs: Two triple chairlifts, one platter lift and two Magic Carpet lifts servicing 41 trails (20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 25 percent advanced and 15 percent expert).

Lift tickets: Adult full day $44, half day $33; teens 13-20 full day $37, half day $28; juniors 7-12 full day $29, half day $22; free for children age 6 and under, fourthgraders, 40-year-olds, 60-year-olds and seniors over 70; seniors 61-69 full day $29, half day $22. Value packages and other discounts are available.

Elevation: 8,200 feet at base; 9,255 at summit; 1,055foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 190 inches, snowmaking on 70 percent of the mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants and three terrain parks.

Childcare: None. Children’s ski school.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to N.M. 75, and then N.M. 518 south five miles to Sipapu.

GR AN DE

68

Pilar

Embudo

518

380

Nogal

Sipapu Ski Area

Ski Apache

37

Black Lake

Velarde From U.S. 84/285

www.skiapache.com 575-464-3600 Snow report: 575-464-1234 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving to Easter weekend.

Distance from Santa Fe: 200 miles Travel time: Four and a half hours Lifts and runs: One gondola (new last year), eight chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 55 trails (45 percent expert, 35 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner).

Lift tickets: Adults $65, half day $46; children 12 and under $45, half day $32; teens 13-17 $46, half day $39; free for seniors 70 and older. Season passes and discounts available.

Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 12,003 at summit; 1,800foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 180 inches, snowmaking on 15 trails — including upper mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurant, small slot machine center, terrain park.

Childcare: Day care available by reservation in Ruidoso; Kiddie Korral lessons for ages 4 to 6.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take I-25 north to Eldorado exit, then south on U.S. 285 to U.S. 60 at Encino, then east on U.S. 60 to N.M. 54, then south to Carrizozo, then east on U.S. 380 for 8 miles, then south on N.M. 37, then right on N.M. 48 to Alto, and finally right on N.M. 532 for 12 miles to the ski area. Last leg is chains-only during storms.

Sierr a Blanca

Dixon

75

Ski Apache

From Carrizozo

Sangr ed Mou e Crist ntain o s

www.sandiapeak.com 505-242-9052 Snow report: 505-857-8911 Scheduled season: Dec. 15-March 17 Distance from Santa Fe: 66 miles Travel time: One hour Lifts and runs: Four chairlifts, one surface lift and one tramway servicing 30 trails (10 percent expert, 55 percent intermediate, 35 percent beginner).

Lift tickets: Adult full day $50, half day $35; teens full day $40; seniors 62-71 and children 6-12 full day $40, half day $30. Free for seniors 72 and older and children under 46 inches tall in ski boots. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available.

Elevation: 8,678 feet at base; summit, 10,376 feet; 1,700-foot vertical drop.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches, snowmaking on 15 percent of the mountain.

Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants, terrain park.

Childcare: No day care. Cubby Bear Corner ski school for ages 4 to 6.

Directions from Santa Fe: To reach the tramway, take Interstate 25 south to Albuquerque, exit onto Tramway road and drive six miles. To reach the base lodge (beginner and intermediate trails), take N.M. 14 south toward Cedar Crest and turn onto N.M. 536.

RI O

Sandia Peak

Sipapu

Trampas 76 Truchas

The New Mexican Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

31

Angus 532

Capitan

Fort 48 Stanton Rio

o nit

Bo

Alto Ruidoso

220

70

Rentals and repairs Whether you decide to buy or rent, or need gear tune-ups, the following shops can get you outfitted for snow sports.

Alpine Sports

www.alpinesports-santafe.com

Repair shop for downhill, cross-country skis and snowboards and snowshoes. Rents and sells skis, snowboards, Nordic equipment and snowshoes, plus sales of apparel and related gear.

121 Sandoval St. 505-983-5155

Cottam’s Ski Rentals

www.Cottamsskishops.com

Repair shop and rentals, downhill skis, snowboards, crosscountry gear, snowshoes, and snowblades.

Hyde Memorial State Park on Hyde Park Road (NM 545), 505-982-0495; and in Taos at 207-A Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-2822; and Taos Ski Valley, 101 Sutton Place, 575776-8719.

New Mexico Bike N Sport www.nmbikensport.com

Snowshoes and cross-country ski rentals.

524-C Cordova Rd. 505-820-0809 Valles Caldera National Preserve

Santa Fe Mountain Sports

www.santafemountainsports.com

Repair shop, sales and rentals of downhill skis, snowboards, snowshoes and cross-country skis, plus gear and apparel sales and outstanding childrens’ ski/board lease program.

1221 Flagman Way 505-988-3337

Valles Caldera National Preserve

www.vallescaldera.gov 505-428-7732 or 866-382-5537 Snow report and Weatherline: 505-661-3333 Scheduled season: Nov. 29 to March 28 (open mainly weekends early season, then daily — call to confirm).

Distance from Santa Fe: 65 miles Travel time: One hour and 15 minutes Trails: 37 miles of cross-country and snowshoeing trails, including a groomed main trail that’s about a 45-minute loop on the Valle Grande (5 percent expert, 10 percent advanced, 65 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). About 11,300 acres are available for day use, mostly ungroomed. The ungroomed Coyote Call trail on the south side of N.M. 4 and some 500 acres of open terrain are available for free.

Trail passes: Adults $10; children 4-15 $8; seniors 62 and older $8; free under 4. Five-day passes are available.

Elevation: 8,500 feet Facilities: Gift shop, rentals Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Take N.M. 4 west into the Jemez Mountains. The preserve entrance is on the north side of the road near mile marker 39.

32

Ski Tech Ski Rentals www.skitechsantafe.com

Repair shop, downhill skis, snowboards and snowshoes, clothing and helmets.

905 St. Francis Drive 505-983-5512

REI Santa Fe www.rei.com

Repair shop sells but does not rent downhill skis, snowboards, alpine touring skis and cross-country skis and equipment. Sells and rents snowshoes. Sells ski apparel and accessories.

500 Market St. Suite 100 505-982-3557

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

magazine.com THE MAGIC OF SANTA FE ARTS • ENTERTAINMENT • EVENTS

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

33

Winter Hiking

Changes in altitude, changes in attitude

photos Kitty Leaken

Nature Conservancy Trails

By Daniel Gibson There are few better ways to shake the winter blues than a nice hike, particularly one with expansive views, the bracing fresh air of Northern New Mexico and our priceless solitude. Many a day I’ve left the house shrouded in a mental cloud, and then, under our cloudless turquoise skies, found my mood lifted and my body infused with the glow that comes from a bit of exertion.

But, you say, “It’s winter, and trails are under snow and ice! You crazy?”

Many trails that hikers frequent in summer are now — or soon will be — buried under a white mantle, but in New Mexico we have the advantage of altitude. In winter, think lower elevations and the terrain to our south, where the sun still shines, the trails remain dry and the air is just as fresh.

Many options exist. Here’s a few of our favorites.

In town The Dale Ball Trails on Santa Fe’s northeastern fringe in the Sangre de Cristo foothills offer a plethora of looping and intersecting trails that provide almost limitless possible routes. You can go out for 15 minutes, or pack some sandwiches and a Thermos of soup and make a day out of it on the 22 or more miles of trails in this wonderfully designed system. Maps at each trail juncture, with distances noted, make navigation easy.

Depending on the specific orientation of the trail chosen, the Dale Ball provides lovely views of the Galisteo Basin and southward across the city to the distant Sandias, west to the Rio Grande Valley, or northeast to the Sangres. Vegetation consists mostly of piñon and juniper, with an occasional ponderosa or white fir at higher elevations, and cottonwoods and willow in rare wet spots. The terrain is mostly gently rolling hills, small arroyos and pocket meadows, so the walking is easy. Dogs and bikes are allowed.

Access points include Cruz Blanca and Wilderness Gate by St. John’s College, two locations on Cerro Gordo, the parking lot off Hyde Park Road at Sierra del Norte and the Cerros Colorados development.

Details: www.santafenm.gov/index.aspx?NID=2281 34

Tucked into the Santa Fe River Canyon at the end of Upper Canyon Road is a set of short trails wandering around the beaver ponds in the bed of a former lower reservoir. These easy strolls offer opportunities to see birds attracted to water and, of course, the busy beavers. Another trail — for the ambitious! — scales the north-facing slopes of Picacho Peak, which tops out at 8,577 feet, one of the highest points fringing the city. In a wet winter, this trail can be a snowy slog, but early or late in the season it is a great, seldom-traveled path with terrific views in all directions from the summit. Picacho is 4.4 miles, round-trip, from the Cerro Gordo parking lot. Plan on at least three hours to make the peak and descend.

Details: See the Dale Ball Trails website.

Atalaya

This route, located just east of St. John’s College, has the highest summit elevation of any destination described here, 9,121 feet, so its top can get snow-covered and icy in wet winters. Though fairly strenuous, it is one of the most popular local hikes year-round, meaning isolation is not to be expected here. It is predominantly on Santa Fe National Forest lands. Details: See the Dale Ball Trails website.

La Tierra

Maintained by the city on open-space lands just off the Highway 599 bypass (at Camino de los Montoyas), on the city’s north-central edge, this new trail system offers more than 25 miles of hiking, plus some options for horseback riding, mountain biking and a BMX course. With only 350 feet of elevation change over its 1,500 acres, all hikes here are rated easy to moderate. Wide, sandy arroyos; great views of the distant Sangre de Cristo and Jemez mountains; and a great spaciousness characterize these hikes. Details: See the Dale Ball Trails website.

Santa Fe River

An easygoing ramble takes one along the course of the Rio Santa Fe, right through the city. You can stick to a paved biking/hiking path or walk in the bed of the (normally) dry river itself, admiring the water-sculpted rocks. Access points include Frenchy’s Field Park on Agua Fria Road or any dead-end street off West Alameda below Alire Street.

W inter li f e 2 01 3-1 4

PhotograPhy • oil Paintings • Bronze sculPtures

RONNIE LAYDEN F I N E A R T GA L L E R Y

901 CANYON ROAD

(866) 995-9783 •(505) 670-6793

Out of town

www.ronnielaydenfineart.com

Buckman Mesa/Otowi Peak

If it has been a dry winter, this hike is doable at any time, but otherwise it makes a good early- or late-winter outing. Located just a few miles from Diablo Canyon (see below) off Buckman Road, this hike steers you to fantastic, up-close views of White Rock Canyon, the mighty gorge carved just west of Santa Fe by the Rio Grande; the Jemez Mountains just to the west; and an unusual perspective on the Sangres.

The first time we tried this hike, which begins snaking up a large, scenic arroyo, we missed the trail when it left the arroyo floor — but no matter! We had a great time winding farther and farther back into the hills, eventually finding ourselves in a small, highly sculpted side arroyo.

The push to the summit might elude you (keep an eye peeled on the left for a rock cairn marker), but even making the top of Buckman Mesa will afford the excellent views and a sense of accomplishment. Plan on three to four hours if you’re hoping to reach Otowi Peak. The push to the mesa top is fairly steep, but short.

Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics, Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics, Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies

Open 7 Days Mon.-Sat.,Thurs.

Thurs.10-7 10-7pm,pm, Open 7 Daysa aWeek: Week:10-5:30 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., Sun.Sun. 1-5 1-5 pm pm We Are We Are Here!

Here!

Diablo Canyon

3018-A Cielo Court 3018-A Cielo Court Santa Fe, NM 87507 505-473-3747 Santa Fe, NM 87507 www.santafequilting.com

505-473-3747

Located west of town in the Caja del Rio area, this is a great winter hike with lots of sunshine and easygoing terrain sloping down to the Rio Grande. You are largely in a wide wash cutting through two fantastically carved volcanic features favored by painters and filmmakers. The 18-mile road from Santa Fe can get muddy and snow-covered at times; a high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle is advised.

www.santafequilting.com

Tent Rocks

This is one of the region’s most spectacular, and now well-known, locales, with its cone-shaped volcanic ash formations topped and protected by incongruous boulders. The trail snakes back into the tuff, at times closing to a slot only 3 or 4 feet wide, the light bouncing downward from the blue slash above. The walk is on sand, and almost flat. You can go as far as you wish, then turn around. In 2001, the site was declared a national monument (Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument), so there is a day-use fee. It is located about 40 miles southwest of Santa Fe, adjacent to Cochiti Pueblo. Details: www.nm.blm.gov/recreation/ albuquerque/kasha_katuwe.htm

Others

Gift Certificates Available Free 20 minute session on a BioMat with this Ad

Additional regional trails with good winter hiking include the Galisteo Basin (see www.galisteobasinpreserve.com), the Cerrillos Hills State Park (see www.emnrd. nm.us/SPD/cerrilloshillsstatepark.html), the Rail Trail running from town to Lamy, Hyde Park Circle (can get snowbound), Rio Tesuque (lower section) and Rio en Medio (lower stretch). Treks involving a bit of driving include Tetilla Peak; the Blue Dot/Red Dot trails, on the west side of the Rio Grande at White Rock; La Luz (lower section), in the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque; the Ojito Wilderness, northwest of Albuquerque in the Rio Puerco Basin; Window Rock, northwest of Española; Kitchen Mesa, near Ghost Ranch (good in a moderate winter); Ojo Caliente; and the West Rim Trail, west of Taos.

Featuring Amethyst BioMats & Belts State of the Art Water Filter Treatments: John of God Crystal Light Therapy Energy Medicine & Asian Body Work

Resources The most informative, accurate and comprehensive guide to local hiking, including almost every hike noted here, is Day Hikes in the Santa Fe Area (Northern New Mexico Sierra Club). Also see websites noted in the hike descriptions.

www.amethystsantafe.com 839 Paseo de Peralta Open daily 10am-4pm Closed Sunday Call for appointment 670-3538 or 954-1002

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

35

useums alleries m g

ttractionsvenues a RESTAURANTSspas heatermusic t shoppingMOVIES If IT’S IN SANTA fE, IT’S ON ExplORESANTAfE.cOM

You turn to us.

36

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

Brighten Up YoUr Winter

With MUseUM QUalitY native aMerican JeWelrY

Creating Beauty

at Rusty Kirkland, DDS delivering very personalized attention by listening to your needs photo: daniel nadelbach

Master jeweler Graduate GeMoloGist Fine art

open 7 days a week

providing a high-quality experience in a low-pressure dental practice

505.982.2578 rustykirklanddds.com 2 9 0 5 R o d e o Pa r k D r i v e E a s t , B u i l d i n g 4 , S u i t e 2 0 0 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505

The Art of Winter Warmth Indulge in Hot Toddies for the Body at the Spa Enjoy cozy fireside cocktails, camaraderie and delectable dining at Fuego and Staab House

laposadadesantafe.com • For room reservations, call 855.278.5276 • For restaurant reservations, book online at OpenTable.com • 330 East Palace Avenue Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

37

More Choice. More Choice. More Choice.

EUROPEAN CONTEMPORARY STYLING

OMNIA Westpoint

Comfortable and smart, not massive. Omnia® Furniture… personalizing comfort: 100 styles.

120 leather colors and fabrics. Sectionals to sleepers, all made in America.

/FURNITURE

1735 Central • Los Alamos • 662-2864 38

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

BALANCING YOUR BOOK BUDGET IS EASY AT BOOK MOUNTAIN Stock up NoW FoR YouR WINtER READING

Our location on the Plaza also has museum quality antique and contemporary Native art 471-2625

2101 Cerrillos Rd.

Clothes that live up to

WC011 Ladiesʼ HooWC011 Ladiesʼ Hooded Coat

your lifestyle . . .

100045 Women’s Kenai Parka $140.00 100110 Men’s Winter Ranch Coat $140.00

Monday - Saturday 10:00 am - 6:00 pm

7 Caliente Rd. B5 Santa Fe (505) 466-1059

DESERT SON of santa fe

C26 Menʼs Traditional Coat $140.00

DESERT SON

HANDMADE BOOTS, BELTS, BUCKLES, HANDBAGS & JEWELRY

of santa fe

HANDMADE BOOTS, BELTS, BUCKLES, HANDBAGS & JEWELRY

Weaving: Master Weaver Sagebrush Hill Woman Reversible Red Blazer: Pendleton Blanket

Pots – Left: 1880s Zuni Olla u Right: c.1910 Acoma Parrot Olla

Native Jackets u On The Plaza u Santa Fe, New Mexico 66 East San Francisco Street Suite 11 Representing Henry Beguelin, Numero 10 & Officine Creative 725 Canyon Rd. • 505-982-9499 • www.desertsonofsantafe.com

505-984-0005 u 888-420-0005 www.NativeJackets.com u www.toadlenatradingpost.com

Representing Henry Beguelin, Numero 10 & Officine Creative Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 725 Canyon Rd. • 505-982-9499 • www.desertsonofsantafe.com

39

Michael Roque Collins Crossing Twilight, 2012 Oil on linen 50 x 50 inches Lew Allen Railyard Gallery

Chuck Close Sunflower, 2007 Cotton Jacquard tapestry 103 x 79 inches

Rebecca Shore 2011-13-G, 2011 Gouache on paper 17 x 13 inches

Turner Carroll Gallery

8 modern

A lineup of enticing shows

By Devon Hawkes Ludlow Art lovers always look forward to winter in Santa Fe: Crowds thin, the pace slows, and you can really soak up the art vibes. Whether you’re looking for established artists, group shows or something less traditional, these highlights will delight even the Scroogiest (you know who you are). To paraphrase Ella, “What do I care how much it may storm? I’ve got my art to keep me warm.”

Put a little snow in your globe with these sumptuous solo shows.

Michael Roque Collins: Beyond Earth’s Rhythms at LewAllen Railyard Gallery (1613 Paseo de Peralta, 505-988-3250, www. lewallencontemporary.com) showcases new paintings by the acclaimed expressionist and postsymbolist painter, exploring entropy and creation in the “depths of darkness.” Through Nov. 24.

David Richard Gallery (544 S. Guadalupe St., 505-983-9555, www.davidrichardgallery. com) will be exhibiting a survey of paintings

by Leon Berkowitz, famed color field painter and founding member of the Washington Color School. Concurrently, the gallery will host Lithographs from the L.A. Years, Part I, featuring works from the Tamarind Lithography Workshop. Dec. 13–Jan. 18.

8 modern (231 Delgado St., 505-995-0231, www. eightmodern.net) will be showing new works

by Rebecca Shore, known for her meticulous and mesmerizing drawings and paintings characterized by a focus on pattern and system.

Nov. 22–Jan. 11; reception, Nov. 22, 5–7 p.m.

Nov. 15, 5–7 p.m. Privacy and Secrets, a group show showcasing work based on the titular (and timely) topics, will follow and will include David Nakabayashi’s new series, Memento, exploring his past through found family photo/paint/collage works. Dec. 10–Jan. 13.

Legends Gallery (125 Lincoln Ave., 505983-5639, www.legendssantafe.com) will host Language of Light, a series from artist and artrepreneur Bette Ridgeway, known for her color and poured painting. Nov. 29–Jan. 2; reception, Nov. 29, 5–7 p.m.

Turner Carroll Gallery (725 Canyon Road, 505-986-9800, www.turnercarrollgallery.com) will be presenting Idle Hands, turning the phrase “idle hands are the devil’s playthings” on its head by presenting “handwork” as a sly application of critique and compelling contemporary art. The show includes work from both art luminaries and rising stars, including Chuck Close, Jenny Abell, Seth Koen, Andrew Romanoff, Rusty Scruby, Shawn Smith, Davis Birks, Tuscany Wenger, Brenda Zappitell, Stephen Buxton, Hung Liu, Tracy Krumm and Ellen Tuchman, all of whom push the boundaries of historically female hand skills into high contemporary art. Nov. 22–Jan. 15; reception, Nov. 22, 5–7 p.m.

Need a bit of spice in your mulled wine? These group shows will get you in the spirit.

The Zane Bennett Gallery (435 S. Guadalupe St., 505-982-8111, www.zanebennettgallery.com) winter lineup kicks off with Emily Cheng’s Whole in One and Roger Atkins’ In Case of Emergency.

Cheng’s work balances synthesis and contrast to recreate the world within, as well as the chaos that surrounds it, creating a center in which the viewer may sit, be at peace and reflect. Atkins’ work, an encore from 2012’s A Square Foot of Humor, is a playful and provocative series focusing on what might be essential at the moment of destruction.

Oct. 25–Nov. 22. Following this will be Ruminative Figures featuring rising star Dunham Aurelius, whose engaging sculptures focus on the tragedy of the human condition. Nov. 15–Dec. 27; reception, 40

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

For something completely different, head down to POP Gallery (142 Lincoln Ave., 505-820-0788, www.popsantafe.com) for the Wild Rumpus Show, a 50th-anniversary tribute to the classic Where the Wild Things Are featuring work inspired by the book. Artists include Paul Barnes, Renee Lawter, Martin Hsu, Emily Trovillion,

Krzysztof Wladyka Animaly #19 Archival pigment ink print 20 x 20 inches, edition of 10 Verve Gallery

Max Lehman, Joel Nakamura, Miss Mindy, CJ Metzger, Kim Gordon, Brix Pix, Michele Lynch, Jeff Brock, Ryan Myers, Keely Benkey-Reichman, Trevor Mikula, M.C. Farris and David Ho, among others. Art workshops will be hosted to benefit POP kidz, in support of igniting creative spirit.

Through Dec. 31; reception, Dec. 6, 5–7 p.m.

Looking for the comfort of old favorites? Have no fear, NuArt Gallery (670 Canyon Road, 505-9883888, www.nuartgallery.com) and Chiaroscuro (439 Camino del Monte Sol, 505-992-0711, www. chiaroscurosantafe.com) will both showcase their established roster of talented artists all season long. Chiaroscuro will also host a holiday group show, details TBA, Nov. 29–Jan. 4.

If you love photography, these shows are perfect for these darkest evenings of the year.

VERVE Gallery (219 E. Marcy St., 505-982-5009, www.vervegallery.com) will be showing recent imagery from Susan Kae Grant’s ongoing series Night Journey, which utilizes her evocative, highcontrast images to explore sleep, dreams, memory and the unconscious; Kamil Vojnar’s Elsewhere, featuring Vojnar’s “diaphanous images,” layered paint, varnish and texture over photographs; and Polish artist Krzystof Wladkya’s Animalies series, manipulated images presenting animals in an unreal world, sometimes with humorous or satirical undertones. Public reception, Friday, Nov. 15, 5–7 p.m., through Jan. 11.

Andrew Smith Gallery (122 Grant Ave., 505-984-1234, www.andrewsmithgallery. com) will be showing Lee Friedlander’s series Mannequin. With characteristic mastery and dry wit, Friedlander’s series of female storefront mannequins pays homage to the

John Barker Laughlin, 2012 Acrylic on panel 40 x 30 inches Eggman and Walrus

monolithic faux deities of fashion behind glass reflections that distort and fragment expected images. Through Jan. 5.

No holiday season is complete without some merrymaking. For the ambitious and daring, visit these up-and-coming and non-traditional galleries.

Eggman and Walrus (130 W. Palace Ave., 505660-0048, www.eggmanwalrus.com) will host works throughout the winter by local painter Charles Greeley, as well as John Barker and Evan Glassman. Utilizing collage and Japanese paper, Greeley’s brilliant color field paintings showcase his atmospheric, aerial harmonies. Artist reception and book signing by Barker on Dec. 6, 5-9 p.m. Also on view later this winter (dates TBA) will be collages/paintings by Bernadette Freeman.

Axle Gallery (505-670-5854, www.axleart.com), the mobile gallery in a van, will be the life of the party this season. Installation by Robert Gaylor with sound by David Dunn, Descanso for Climate Change. Painted sculptures of bark beetle–eaten piñon, drawings and sound question the idea of Homo sapiens’ superiority and express kinship with all creation. Nov. 29–Dec. 29.

Post New Year’s, Axle presents E Pluribus Unum: Albuquerque in partnership with 516 ARTS’ Heart of the City. This huge community art project will see Axle set up as a mobile portrait studio, creating a composite image of participants Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

41

Robert Gaylor Descanso for Climate Change, 2010-2013 Acrylic on beetle-bored pine branches, white pencil drawing of bark beetle, pine cones and branches. axle gallery

to be hung around downtown Albuquerque Jan. 6–12. Axle keeps up the pace with El Otro Lado, an installation by Myriam Tapp. Using vacillating, motor-powered light projection, Tapp recreates solar movement over a sandblasted transparent surface in a tapestry of negative space and light in motion. Feb. 7–March 2.

Finally, the delightful SCUBA collective invades CCA’s Muñoz Waxman Gallery (1050 Old Pecos Trail, 505-982-1338, www.ccasantafe. org) with Ice Pop, an Arctic-themed exhibition featuring painting, ceramics, an ice shelf and a 20-foot moving truck converted into a mobile gallery and shop. Oh, Santa, how did you know?

Jan. 24–March 30.

Pro Musica

Desert Chorale

Linda Marianiello

Classical music fills the winter air

By Craig Smith Summer in Santa Fe is busy with music, but so is the rest of the year. What used to be laughingly called the “off season” is anything but these days.

All around the city, organizations offer quality performances of choral music, symphonic repertoire, solo artists, ensembles and chamber music in venues from the intimate to the expansive.

The sheer range coming up is tempting. Who can resist the opportunity to hear Bach’s Easter Oratorio by the New Mexico Performing Arts Society, or the King’s Singers presented by the Santa Fe Concert Association? Or Aaron Copland’s “A Lincoln Portrait” performed by the Santa Fe Symphony with N. Scott Momaday as narrator, or Mahler’s “Songs of a Wayfarer” offered in an unusual arrangement for chamber ensemble by Santa Fe Pro Musica?

The New Mexico Performing Arts Society is the newest ensemble in town, but it’s already making a mark. It was founded in 2011 by flautist Linda Marianiello and opera conductor Franz Vote. Marianiello was looking for a location to host an international flute master class when she came across the Immaculate Heart of Mary conference center on Mount Carmel Road, near St. John’s College and Santa Fe Preparatory School. When she saw the small, exquisite chapel there, she realized it would be a superb performance space.

At the invitation of center director Jeff Snodgrass, she produced a short series of chamber-music concerts around Valentine’s Day 2011. That led to the formation later of the New Mexico Bach Society, which Vote conducts.

The New Mexico Performing Arts Society itself was formally organized in November 2011.

For Thomas O’Connor of Santa Fe Pro Musica, now entering its 32nd season, a conservative programming approach for the last five years has helped the organization surmount the economic crisis, and also solidified its mission.

“I’ve tried to stay with more mainstream programming to hopefully attract as broad an audience as possible,” O’Connor says. “Part of this approach has been driven by a desire to play all of our concerts as pairs, because that is good way to develop the ensemble and overall quality of our orchestra.

“For 2013–14, I’ve looked for more variety in the programming while still trying to keep an eye on the mainstream audience,” he continues. “I’ve mixed it up more, and I think it will be an interesting season for Pro Musica.” Rather than performing all of its concerts in the Lensic Performing Arts Center, Pro Musica will play some in St. Francis Auditorium, and their more intimate Christmas series will stay in the beautiful, if small, Loretto Chapel. “Loretto 42

remains the best room for period instruments” in town, O’Connor states.

For its annual series of Christmas concerts, the Santa Fe Desert Chorale’s music director Joshua Habermann has chosen wide-ranging programs that offer sacred music, holiday favorites and modern vocals. There will be the always-anticipated Carols and Lullabies program, including European carols from Spain, England, Sweden and Holland; an excerpt from Rachmaninov’s All-Night Vespers; and American composer Morten Lauridsen’s setting of the “O Magnum Mysterium” text.

Other Chorale offerings include the Big Sing, which brings together the UNM Children’s Chorus, the UNM Concert Choir and the Chorale at the historic Cristo Rey Church. Each will perform its own set of works, then the more than 100 singers will lead the audience together in a sing-along of holiday favorites. Finally, the ensemble adds The Lighter Side of Christmas at the LewAllen Gallery — a jazzy fundraiser for the organization — and In the Midnight Hour. The latter will introduce Voasis, a new a cappella octet being put together by Deke Sharon, music producer for hit shows and movies including NBC’s The Sing-Off and Pitch Perfect.

Serenata of Santa Fe is a chamber ensemble that has been active for 26 years. Oboist and artistic director Pamela Epple points out that the group “has always been about chamber music, and continues to be — all chamber music, all the time!

“It is a great honor to be able to construct concerts, and it is a privilege to rehearse the music and to extract its meaning,” she adds. “We do this by taking it apart and putting it back together in order to understand it, which I think we all find very satisfying.”

Serenata’s concerts this season play mostly in the ornate, historic Scottish Rite Auditorium, a fine venue for chamber music. The repertoire includes pieces by Beethoven, Poulenc, Bernard Herrmann, Brahms, Mozart, Thuille and New Mexico composers Ron Strauss and Kelvin McNeal. The performers include Epple, clarinetist Keith Lemmons, harpsichordist Kathleen McIntosh, violinists Elena Sopoci and David Felberg, cellist Sally Guenther, pianists Debra Ayers and Yi-Heng Yang, and mezzo-soprano Consuelo Sañudo.

“What is really great is that Serenata started as a musician- and composerdriven enterprise, and we are still doing that,” Epple says. “Eighty percent of our small budget goes toward artist fees. New and local music gets performed and even recorded. Philosophically, Serenata is not striving for an ‘exclusive’ audience. I am more interested in being ‘inclusive.’ Times are different and always changing, so we must be flexible and flow with those changes.”

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Serenata

La Catrina

2013–14 Performances

Here’s the list of performances from now through March 2014.

All concerts are in the Lensic Performing Arts Center unless otherwise noted. For performance venues outside Santa Fe, ticket prices and more information, see each organization’s website or call the listed number.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St., 505-988-1234 www.lensic.org The Lensic and the Santa Fe Opera present The Met: Live in HD Dec. 14, 11 a.m., 6 p.m., “Falstaff” (Verdi) new production Feb. 8., 11 a.m., 6 p.m., “Rusalka” (Dvořák) March 1–2, 10 a.m., 2 p.m., “Prince Igor” (Borodin)–new production New Mexico Gay Men’s Chorus 505-569-0139, www.nmgmc.org Holiday Concert Dec. 13, 7:30 p.m.

James A. Little Theater, New Mexico School for the Deaf New Mexico Performing Arts Society 505-474-4513, www.nmperformingarts.org Annual Winter Solstice Concert: Music of Bach and Carols of the Season Dec. 1, 4 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel Mardi Gras Celebration Jan. 18, 4 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel Valentine’s Day Concert: Music of Mozart, Brahms, Beach and Ponce Feb. 15, 7 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel

Bach: Easter Oratorio and Suite No. 2 in B Minor for Flute and Orchestra March 9, 4 p.m.

Stieren Orchestra Hall, Santa Fe Opera Santa Fe Concert Association 505-984-8759, www.santafeconcerts.org A Celtic Holiday Concert Dec. 2, 7:30 p.m.

Donnell Leahy and family The King’s Singers Dec. 6, 7:30 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi SFCA Orchestra Christmas Eve Concert Dec 24, 5 p.m.

Joseph Illick, conductor, Beethoven Violin Concerto (Caroline Goulding, violin) and Symphony No. 4

The Big Holiday Sing Dec. 15, 4 p.m.

Cristo Rey Church

Christmas Treasures Dec. 15, 4 p.m.

Joseph Young, conductor

The Lighter Side of Christmas Dec. 17, 6 p.m.

LewAllen Gallery Downtown

Bruckner and Mozart Jan. 19, 4 p.m.

James Feddeck, conductor

In the Midnight Hour with Voasis, produced by Deke Sharon Dec. 28–29, 4 p.m., 8 p.m.; Dec. 30–31, 8 p.m.

Warehouse 21

In Honor of Lincoln Feb. 16, 4 p.m.

Robert Treviño, conductor; N. Scott Momaday, narrator

Santa Fe Pro Musica 505-988-4640 www.santafepromusica.com The Jasper String Quartet: Music of Haydn, Kernis and Beethoven Nov. 10, 3 p.m.

St. Francis Auditorium

SFCA Orchestra New Year’s Eve Concert Dec. 31, 5 p.m.

Joseph Illick, piano and conductor, Poulenc Concerto for Two Pianos with soloists Claire Huangci and Joseph Illick, Brahms Symphony No. 2

A Baroque Christmas Dec. 20-24, 6 p.m., 8 p.m.

Loretto Chapel

Free Community Opera: “The Barber of Seville” Jan. 10, 7 p.m.; Jan. 11–12, 2 p.m.

Scottish Rite Center

Cármelo de los Santos, Violin Jan. 25, 6 p.m.; Jan. 26, 3 p.m.

Music of Vaughan Williams, Barber and Beethoven

Notes on Music: The Sing-Along of the Niebelungen Jan. 16, 7:30 p.m.

United Church of Santa Fe

Debussy, Mahler and Shostakovich March 1, 6 p.m.; March 2, 3 p.m.

St. Francis Auditorium

David Russell, Guitar March 7, 7:30 p.m.

Great Hall at St. John’s College

The Brandenburg Concertos Dec. 28, 6 p.m.; Dec. 29, 3 p.m.

St. Francis Auditorium

Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra and Chorus 505-983-1414, www.santafesymphony.org

Santa Fe Desert Chorale 505-988-2282, www.desertchorale.org

Handel’s “Messiah” Nov. 24, 4 p.m.

Tom Hall, conductor

Carols and Lullabies Dec 14, 19, 20, 21, 23, 8 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis de Assisi

Carols and Choruses Dec. 5, 7 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

43

Santa Fe Women’s Ensemble 505-954-4922, www.sfwe.org Winter Festival of Song Dec. 13 and 19, 7 p.m.

Loretto Chapel Dec. 14, 3 p.m.

First Presbyterian Church Dec. 21, 3 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel Serenata of Santa Fe 505-989-7988 www.serenataofsantafe.org Windstream: Music of Beethoven, Poulenc and Thuille Nov. 24, 3 p.m.

Scottish Rite Center Secret Soirée: Winter Tales Dec. 11, 5 p.m.

Fundraiser; call for details and location Harpsichord Fandango Jan. 5, 3 p.m.

El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe Twists and Turns: Music of Bernard Herrmann, Brahms and Corigliano Feb. 9, 3 p.m.

Scottish Rite Center Here and Now: Premieres

by Ron Strauss and Kelvin McNeal March 7, 7 p.m.

Scottish Rite Center

Timeless ‘Messiah’ Masterpiece still resonates with audiences

By Craig Smith There’s a lot to be said for a piece that has lasted for 271 years and only gets ­more popular with the passage of time. The work in question is George Frideric Handel’s beloved oratorio Messiah, which had its premiere in Dublin, Ireland, on April 13, 1742. It has gone from strength to strength ever since then, gaining adherents whenever and wherever it’s heard.

It seems that no matter how small the chorus or inexperienced the orchestra and soloists, Messiah charms, moves and delights listeners with its majestic music and timeless story of the Incarnation, Passion and Resurrection of Christ.

Not that there’s really ever a question of quality with the Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra & Chorus’ annual Messiah reading. SFS has done it for 18 If you go years now, and the players and singers, Santa Fe Symphony the guest soloists and conductor, come Orchestra & Chorus together each year to give an assured Handel’s Messiah and insightful performance, singing and 4 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 24 playing with what might best be called Lensic Performing Arts Center, exuberant reverence. Guest conductor 211 W. San Francisco St. Tom Hall of the Baltimore Choral Arts $20-$70; 988-1234 Society returns for his tenth time on the podium for this work with the symphony at 4 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 24, at the Lensic Performing Arts Center. Hall estimates he’s performed the work more than 100 times. The vocal soloists are Sydney Mancasola, soprano; Lucia Cervoni, mezzo-soprano; Gregory Warren, tenor; and Joseph Beutel, bassbaritone. The symphony chorus has been prepared by Linda Raney.

“The tradition of performing Messiah around the holiday time is something that’s really caught on internationally,” Hall said in a telephone interview from Baltimore, Md. “Everybody does it, from the smallest community choruses to the large orchestras. It’s an international phenomenon. There has been an annual performance somewhere on the planet since 1742. Now the geographic scope is on every continent. To be part of that performance tradition is really quite something.”

There are many versions of Messiah and thus many ways to choose to perform it, Hall pointed out. Handel was such a canny theatrical personality and such an accomplished musician that he knew that pieces might need to be adjusted for different artists to suit their vocal strengths.

So for different performances and people, Handel never hesitated to transpose, rewrite or recast an aria to suit a specific soloist. A bass aria in one version might be cast for soprano in another, or a soprano aria might be rewritten for contralto. As Hall put it, “Handel was very accommodating.”

Hall is accommodating, too. He has a Messiah version that serves as a template, but he enjoys adjusting it to circumstances every time he leads a performance — and that includes in Santa Fe. “What I’ve taken to doing in Santa Fe is a version that is kind of an amalgam that we change every year, partially,” he explained. “We might want to give the chorus a new chorus or two to sing, or we might adjust things so the soloists are given equal billing — so the tenor doesn’t sing for 25 minutes and the soprano for five! With the small tweaks to it every year, we make sure it fits within the time parameters we have for the concert, and keep it interesting both for people who have done it a lot and people joining us for the first time.

“That’s one of the great things about this piece. It’s so well known and so familiar, even to people who are not regular concertgoers. They’ve heard it in so many other settings. Even though we change a movement here, a movement there, from year to year, by the time we’ve finished it’s still pretty familiar.”

44

Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra & Chorus

Messiah gained kudos even before it was formally performed in the “Musick Hall” on Fishamble Street in Dublin. On April 10, 1742, the Dublin Journal noted, “Yesterday Mr. Handel’s new Grand Sacred Oratorio, called, The MESSIAH, was rehearsed … to a most Grand, Polite and crouded Audience; and was performed so well, that it gave universal Satisfaction to all present; and was allowed by the greatest Judges to be the finest Composition of Musick that ever was heard, and the sacred Words as properly adapted for the occasion.”

Also in the review, there was a request that women coming to the performance on the 13th make a sartorial sacrifice and leave the hoops out of their skirts, to make more room in the hall. On the morning of the performance, men were singled out for attention, too: They were “desired to come without their Swords” for the same reason.

Handel had penned his oratorio in London the previous year, from August 22 through September 14, 1741. Drawn mostly from the King James Version of the Bible, the libretto was assembled by a clergyman named Charles Jennens, though Handel made some discreet and doubtless sensible editorial changes and additions: He knew, better than Jennens, how words should fit with music.

Handel was a fast worker, in part because he never hesitated to borrow themes from other composers or rework themes from his own previous works. Among the borrowings he made from his own canon was the chorus, “For unto us a child is born,” which first was heard years before, during his youthful sojourn in Italy, as a love duet.

Incidentally, though Handel knew the value of money and expected to be well paid for his work, he had a generous heart. The first performance’s proceeds went to several deserving organizations in Dublin.

“Musically, dramatically, artistically, it’s such a great piece,” Hall said with enthusiasm. “It’s thrilling every time I do it, and I’ve done it a lot. I’m always happy to return to Santa Fe because the orchestra and I have a really great relationship. I’m very fond of them and proud of the work we’ve done together. And the audience has always been so gracious.”

Asked if he has a favorite movement from the work, Hall said, “Perhaps unbelievable as it may sound, as many times as I’ve conducted it, the ‘Hallelujah Chorus’ still sends a chill up my spine. I’ve done it on Christmas programs where it’s not connected to the oratorio. But when it comes at the end of Part II, it really is an extraordinary demonstration of brilliance and restraint.” That, he explained, is because Handel holds back the trumpets and timpani until a climactic point in the chorus — and then they come in, recalling Beethoven’s comment on another point in Messiah: “When he chooses, he strikes like thunder.”

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Celebrate

S a n t a Fe

DESERT CHORALE

your holiday season with the gift of SONG!

THE SANTA FE DESERT CHORALE Joshua Habermann, Music Director

Winter Festival | DEC 14 - 31 Carols and Lullabies

Cathedral Basilica of St Francis – Santa Fe Dec 14, 19, 20, 21, 23 8pm Immanuel Presbyterian – Albuquerque Dec 22 4pm

25TH ANNUAL WINTER

S PA N I S H MARKET

NOW IN

Albuquerque L O C AT E D AT:

The BIG Holiday Sing

Cristo Rey Church – Santa Fe Dec 15 4pm

The Lighter Side of Christmas

LewAllen Galleries Downtown – Santa Fe General Admission Dec 17 6pm

In the Midnight Hour with Voasis

directed by Deke Sharon, Music Producer of NBC’s The Sing-off and Music Director of the hit musical comedy, Pitch Perfect

F r i d a y,

NOV 29, 2-9 PM S a t u r d a y, N O V 3 0 , 9 AM-5 PM

2013, 2013,

PRESENTED BY

Warehouse 21 – Santa Fe General Admission Dec 28, 29 4pm, Dec 28, 29, 30, 31 8pm Deke Sharon

Voasis

FOR SFDC WINTER FESTIVAL DETAILS AND TICKETS VISIT: desertchorale.org or call 505.988.2282.

Winter Festival 2013 is made possible, in part, by the National Endowment for the Arts; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs; and the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and 1% Lodgers’ Tax. FelizNavidad ADS_WInter2013.indd 1

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 10/21/13 3:07 PM

spanishcolonialblog.org 750 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe ( 505 ) 982-2226 45

NMD13045-Spanish Market half page vert.indd 4

10/7/13 6:35 PM

at four seasons resort rancho encantado

TASTE… Experience a twist on contemporary American cuisine inspired by northern New Mexico and infused with locally-sourced organic ingredients.

New Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort.

TREAT YOURSELF at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado

For reservations or information, please call (505) 946-5700 or visit fourseasons.com/santafe

at four seasons resort rancho encantado

UNWIND… Escape to the Spa at Rancho Encantado where an innovative selection of spa and wellness services honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions awaits.

46

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

S WAIA

WIN TER

IND IAN

MARKE T

NOVEMBER 30 - DECEMBER 1 SANTA FE COMMUNITY CONVENTION CENTER Artist DemonstrAtions, nAtive music & DAnce performAnces, film screenings, youth Activities performAnces by worlD chAmpion hoop DAncer nAkotAh lArAnce!

santafeindianmarket.com . facebook.com/swaia . 505.983.5220 photos by kitty leaken taken at the 2012 swAiA winter indian market

A winter smorgasbord Story by John Vollertsen • Photos by Kitty Leaken

Left, Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s — A Culinary Pub Right, leaves of honey-glazed phyllo are stacked Napoleon-style with layers of seared beets, parsnips, turnips and Brussels sprout leaves, given a goat-cheese crumble and a sheath of crisp prosciutto, and sauced with sherry butter sauce and ginger/carrot foam.

When the cold weather comes, it’s time to snuggle into your favorite restaurants and bulk up for sweater season. Whether you are fueling the tank for some runs on our world-class ski slopes or simply celebrating Santa Fe’s unique culinary scene, here are some of my top picks for a delicious, edible Winter Wonderland, with options for any budget.

48

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

Restaurants for all budgets

Left, Cafe Pasqual’s corned beef hash topped with poached eggs.

Right, Santa Fe Bite’s plump bacon green-chile cheeseburger served with house-made potato chips and a velvety chocolate malt.

Pocket-friendly Breakfast: Bert’s Burger Bowl

235 N. Guadalupe St., 505-982-0215, www.bertsburgerbowl.com It’s almost un–New Mexican to not crave a breakfast burrito to start the day, and my favorite comes from Bert’s. Owner Fernando Olea sure knows a few things about burgers, but in the a.m. hours it’s Mrs. Olea, Laurie, who builds the plumpest, most chock-full burritos in the land. If you’re packing a powerful hunger, try the Big “8,” with crispy bacon, spicy chorizo, ham, sausage, double-fresh eggs, potatoes, cheese and fiery chile (of course). Carb and protein loading done right!

Lunch: Taberna La Boca

125 Lincoln Ave., Ste. 117, 505-988-7102, www.tabernasf.com Plan a late lunch and head over to the Hora Feliz (Happy Hour) at James Campbell Caruso’s hopping follow-up to La Boca. From 3 to 5 p.m.

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

49

daily, a half-dozen of the most popular tapas items go for $5 and under. Crostini topped with tart oven-roasted tomatoes; swirls of smoked salmon stuffed with creamy goat cheese, peppery arugula and orange zest; bocadillos, the Spanish minisandwich with salty jamón Serrano; roasted beet salad with zippy pomegranate molasses drizzle; and the classic egg and potato tortas — all lip-smacking good and vying for your appetite.

Dinner: Santa Fe Bite

311 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-982-0544, www.santafebite.com Try the tart and crunchy coleslaw as a side, paired with a fat bacon green-chile cheeseburger — the juiciest burger in town.

Wash it down with a Dreyer’s velvety chocolate malted; $20-delish-done!

Left, Santa Fe Bite. Right, Café Pasquals’s Photos Kitty Leaken

Midrange Breakfast: Café Pasqual’s

121 Don Gaspar St., 505-983-9340, www.pasquals.com When corned beef hash is unbelievably lean, not too potato-ey, fried up to inhabit equal parts charred and chunky bits, has moist and tender nubs of full-flavored organic meat, and is then topped with two perfectly poached eggs whose runny yolks become a silken sauce to the whole wonderful dish, you are clearly dining at Santa Fe’s star restaurant, Café Pasqual’s. Linger over a bracing cappuccino served in a bowl spouting their motto: Panza Llena, Corazón Contento — full stomach, happy heart. True that!

Lunch: La Plazuela at La Fonda

100 E. San Francisco St., 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com When only authentic New Mexican cuisine will do to warm you up, I head to La Plazuela in the recently and beautifully renovated historic La Fonda on the Plaza hotel. The center-courtyard restaurant’s bright and airy skylights really show off Chef Lane Warner’s Combo Plate, packed with a chubby moist red chile pork tamale, fork-tender chile relleno and home-style cheese enchilada. Both red and green sauces tout great depth of flavor and pack a kick. Order them both.

Dinner: Joseph’s–A Culinary Pub

428 Agua Fría St., 505-982-1272, www.josephsofsantafe.com The most anticipated restaurant opening this fall was Taos-based chef Joseph Wrede’s own joint after two outings in Santa Fe with other creative participants. His “vegetable-centric” menu includes a delicious dish that celebrates the winter harvest. Leaves of honey-glazed phyllo are stacked Napoleon-style with layers of seared beets, parsnips, turnips and Brussels sprout leaves, given a goat-cheese crumble and a sheath of crisp prosciutto, and sauced with sherry butter sauce and ginger/beet foam. Pure Wrede ingenuity.

50

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

I’m regularly asked, “If you had one dinner in Santa Fe, where would it be?”

For years my answer has been Geronimo, by virtue of their service, ambience, consistency and cuisine.

Left, Mark Kiffin. Right, scallops, The Compound.

Photos Kitty Leaken

High-end Breakfast: Inn and Spa at Loretto Rooftop Penthouse 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-988-5531, www.innatloretto.com

Perhaps an amorous inclination has your friends yelling, “Get a room!” Don’t get just any room, get THE room — the newly renovated penthouse high above the Inn and Spa at Loretto. A private elevator, five beautifully landscaped terraces, panoramic floor-to-ceiling views, an art studio and a wood-burning kiva fireplace are just a few of the amenities you’ll enjoy as chef Brett Sparman spoils you with a bountiful minted fresh-fruit combo; Loretto Benedict topped with tender asparagus, shaved ham and Hollandaise foam; and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot with two chilled glasses. Economy be damned; living well is the best revenge.

Lunch: The Compound

653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com It’s nice to have a restaurant you can still dress up to go to and not look like you’re coming from church. If you want to spoil or impress a business associate or out-of-town guest, start with the seared sweetbreads and foie gras appetizer, a decadent celebration of organ meats in a luscious sherry vinegar reduction, then finish with the jumbo crab and lobster salad packed with plump, pristine chunks of seafood and tarted up with mangoes and tangerine dressing. There is something wonderful about lunching on tables with crisp linen.

Dinner: Geronimo

724 Canyon Road, 505-982-1500, www.geronimorestaurant.com I’m regularly asked, “If you had one dinner in Santa Fe, where would it be?” For years my answer has been Geronimo, by virtue of their service, ambience, consistency and cuisine. The “slab” of local lamb chops with crispy pan-fried potato cakes, candied shallots and duo of hot mustard and cooling mint sauces reminds me why I love it so. Great restaurants are always in fashion, and Geronimo sets the trend!

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

51

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

MORNING

WEDNESDAY

AFTERNOON

TUESDAY

Portrait Watercolor & Oil Watercolor & Oil Watercolor Drawing & Painting Lee Rommel Lee Rommel Mell Feltman Kevin Gorges Roberta Remy 9:30 am – 12:30 pm 9:30 am – 12:30 pm 9:30 am – 12:30 pm 9:30 am – 12:30 pm 9:30 am – 12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95* Jan. 14 – March 18 Jan. 16 – March 20 Jan. 17 – March 21 Jan. 13 – March 17 Jan. 15 – March 19

Figure Drawing Oil Painting Kevin Gorges Michael McGuire 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95* 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 13 – March 17 Jan. 14 – March 18

Painting and Drawing

Intro Figure Painting

Drawing

EVENING

WINTER ART CLASSES 2014

8 TO 10 WEEk MONDAY CLASSES Still Life

Beginning & Intermediate

must have figure experience

Richard Guzman Kevin Gorges 6:00 pm – 8:30 pm 6:00 pm – 8:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95* Jan. 13 – March 17 Jan. 14 – March 18

Pastel Painting James Roybal 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 15 – March 19

Watercolor Michael McGuire 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 16 – March 20

Expression Watercolor & Oil Through Watercolor Lee Rommel Christy Henspetter 6:00 pm – 8:30 pm 6:00 pm – 9:00 pm 10 weeks $209.95 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 15 – March 19 Jan. 16 – March 20

Mixed Media Collage Darlene McElroy 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 17 – March 21 * + model fee all classes + tax enroll early

SATURDAY Oil Painting Richard Guzman 9:30 am – 1:30 pm 8 weeks $209.95 Jan. 18 – March 8 Register EARLY

ValdesArt Workshops.com

10% Student Discount On Art Supplies

Art Supplies Art Classes 1006 Marquez Place Santa Fe 87505 (505) 982-0017 ValdesArtWorkshops.com

GET THE BEST OF NEW MEXICO

any way YOU want it

12

95

MO

W I N N E R New Mexico Press Association award for

Two great ways to enjoy unlimited access to santafenewmexican.com and pasatiempomagazine.com.

$

2012 and 2013

GENErAL EXCELLENCE

Total access

PRINT + DIGITAL

Unlimited digital access plus your choice of 7-day, weekend or Sunday-only home delivery.

9

$

95 MO

Online access

DIGITAL ONLY

Unlimited digital access .

Automated monthly payments. Total access subscribers must reside within in The New Mexican’s home delivery area.

santafenewmexican .com/SUBSCrIBE

986-3010

You turn to us.

52

W int erli f e 2 01 3-1 4

❅ ❅ ❅ ✳ ❆ ✳ ✳ ❆ ❆ ❄ ❄ ❄ RAILYARD & GUADALUPE DISTRICTS

Lannan Foundation presents its

ALL EVENTS BEGIN AT 7PM

2013–2014 Winter /Spring events.

Readings & Conversations brings to

20 NOVEMBER

Luis Alberto Urrea with Michael Silverblatt

12 DECEMBER

The Dark Room Collective Natasha Trethewey, Major Jackson, Thomas Sayers Ellis, John Keene, Tisa Bryant & Sharan Strange

Santa Fe a wide range of writers from the literary world of fiction, nonfiction and poetry to read from and discuss their work.

15 JANUARY

Bryan Stevenson with Liliana Segura

In Pursuit of Cultural Freedom is a lecture

12 FEBRUARY

George Saunders with Joel Lovell

26 FEBRUARY

Greg Grandin with Avi Lewis

19 MARCH

Trevor Paglen with Rebecca Solnit

2 APRIL

Dave Zirin with David Barsamian

16 APRIL

Benjamin Alire Sáenz with Cecilia Ballí

7 MAY

Sandra Steingraber with Laura Flanders

21 MAY

Colm Tóibín with Michael Silverblatt

series on political, economic, environmental and human rights issues featuring social justice activists, writers, journalists and scholars discussing critical topics of our day.

www.lannan.org Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

53

❅ ❅ ❅ ✳ ❆ ✳ ✳ ❆ ❆ ❄ ❄ ❄ RAILYARD & GUADALUPE DISTRICTS FINE SHOPPING & DINING Bodhi Bazaar

Op. cit. Bookstore

Cost Plus World Market

Pandora’s Play

Dell Fox Jewelry

Pranzo Italian Grill/Alto

Eidos Contemporary Jewelry

Raaga Restaurant Ristra Restaurant

El Tesoro Cafe

Rock Paper Scissor SalonSpa

Get It Together

Santa Fe Pens

Kioti

SoulfulSilks

Mercedes Isabel Velarde Fine Jewelry & Art

Teca Tu A Paws-Worthy Emporium

On Your Feet

The Reel Life Wink Salon

On Your Little Feet

In the Historic Railyard District 5 0 0 M O N T E Z U M A AV E N U E • 5 0 5 . 8 2 0 . 9 9 1 9 • S A N TA F E Missoni, Home Treasures, Libeco.

Gretel Underwood Throws and Sergio Martinez Rugs.

I got it at wink!

Sanbusco Market • 988-3840 WinkSantaFe

Photo credit: David Marlow and Parasol Productions

15 Years still here!

Custom orders available Sanbusco Market Center • 500 Montezuma 982-3298 • 10-6 Mon-Sat 12-5 Sun • www.pandorasantafe.com

54

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

❅ ❅ ❅ ✳ ❆ ✳ ✳ ❆ ❆ ❄ ❄ ❄ RAILYARD & GUADALUPE DISTRICTS Warm up with sweaters from

FINE ART AND CRAFTS FROM LOCAL JURIED ARTISTS RAILYARD PARK Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe Next to the Farmers Market

CLOTHING 984-9836

Saturdays, April thru December 8:00 am to 1:00 pm

www.SantaFeArtistsMarket.com

For Inspired Living and Giving

FOLK ART, TEXTILES, JEWELRY, CANDLES, BOOKS, CDS 1O 9 8 1/ 2 SO U T H S T FR ANC I S DR I V E @ P E N ROA D MON – S AT / 1O – 5 982 .2 592 Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

55

SWAIA annual winter market

Native arts shine

By RoseMary Diaz Now in its eighth year, the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA) Winter Market, an offshoot of the famous and venerable annual August Santa Fe Indian Market, is “a great way to kick off the holiday season!” says New York City’s Soho artist and longtime Santa Fe Indian Market attendee Nena LeBlanc. “This will be my fifth year attending Winter Market. I have two new grandchildren to buy gifts for this Christmas, so it’s going to be an extra-special visit for me.”

Held at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, just a few blocks from the city’s historic Plaza, Winter Market showcases the work of more than 200 Native artists representing tribes from across the United States and Canada. Works include painted, carved and etched hand-coiled pottery and claywork; sand-cast, hand-forged and inlaid traditional and contemporary jewelry and metalwork; as well as stone sculptures coaxed from granite, soapstone, travertine and traditionally processed clay. Also on view are delicately carved and finely detailed katsinas; exquisite weavings; hand-loomed and handstitched beadwork; elegant garments made from hand-dyed, handpainted and silk-screened natural-fiber fabrics and textiles; insightful photography; and a virtual kaleidoscope of vibrant paintings.

To many artists, the end-of-the-year event offers a welcome prospect for slow-season income opportunities. And to many a Market-goer, the smaller scale and slower pace of the event, compared with the summer Market, provides a more relaxing and intimate experience. Here one can meet and converse with award-winning Native artists face-to-face, find out what those designs on your Pueblo pot symbolize and get the story behind the rare stone in that bracelet.

“Winter Indian Market is one of the highlights of Santa Fe’s holiday season,” notes SWAIA’s director of public relations, marketing and programming, Tailinh Agoyo. “Visitors have the opportunity to interact with their favorite artists, watch artist demonstrations and enjoy Native music and dance performances. It’s a wonderful family event and a perfect way to spend Thanksgiving weekend.”

Details When: Nov. 30–Dec. 1, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. both days Where: Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St.

(between Grant and Lincoln)

Tickets: At the door: general public, including seniors and students, $10 per

day; weekend pass, $15; SWAIA members and children, free.

Special programming: This year’s special attractions include live

performances by world-champion hoop dancer and Cirque du Soleil star Nakotah LaRance, featuring Native flute and hand-drum by Brian Frejo (both days at 1:30 p.m.); the NextGen SWAIA Intensive Performing Arts Workshop Showcase (Saturday, 3 p.m.); Fashion Row, featuring the work of Native America’s premier designers; open-studio artist demonstrations; a silent auction offering original artwork by Market artists; an exhibit of artwork by Native youth; a hands-on art and activities table; and screenings of 2013’s Santa Fe Indian Market Class X film winners (both days, 11 a.m.).

The films include the animated short Shhhhhhh by Steve Judd (Kiowa/ Choctaw), the documentary short The Gathering by Tewanee Joseph (Squamish) and, in the experimental genre, Cibola: Seven Cities of Gold by Jameson Banks (Seneca-Cayuga/Cherokee). There will also be a raffle of two Christmas trees featuring one-of-a-kind ornaments made and donated by celebrated SWAIA artists. All performances and film screenings are included with admission.

Contact: 505-983-5220 or www.swaia.org 56

©2013 SWAIA/Kitty leaken

From left, musician Brian Frejo and hoop dancer Nakotah LaRance.

W int erli fe 2 01 3-1 4

Experience Lensic Presents November 13 | 7 pm

Balé Folclórico da Bahia

From Brazil—nearly 40 dancers, singers, and musicians, performing samba, capoeria, Carnival dances, and more!

The Mountaintop

November 15 & 16 | Friday, 8 pm; Saturday, 2 pm & 8 pm FU S I O N TH EATR E COM PANY

The Mountaintop

Katori Hall’s award-winning play recalls the last evening in the life of Martin Luther King Jr.

November 21 & 23 | 7 pm

Mike Daisey: The Secret War

Daisey’s provocative new monologue looks at the power of secrecy—and how America’s relationship with war has changed us all.

Balé Folclórico da Bahia

35mm Archival Film Series

Presented by The Lensic and the American Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, our newest film series brings restored prints of classic films to the Lensic’s big screen.

November 29

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea (1954) | 2 pm The Band Wagon (1953) | 7 pm November 30

Hatari (1962) | 2 pm North by Northwest (1959) | 7 pm Colin Quinn

December 27

White Christmas (1954) | 2 pm Lawrence of Arabia (1962) | 7 pm February 7

Colin Quinn: Unconstitutional

Comedian Quinn (Long Story Short, Saturday Night Live) offers his unique perspective on our national character.

February 22 | 7 pm

TAO: Phoenix Rising

A colorful, adrenaline-fueled evening with the TAO Taiko drummers from Japan.

North by Northwest

For a complete schedule of events, visit Lensic.org.

For tickets, go to TicketsSantaFe.org or call 505-988-1234.

211 W. San Francisco St.

Nightlife is my life

Kerry Sherck

Left, members of Le Chat Lunatique including Muni Kulasinghe on violin, left, John Sandlin on guitar, center, and Fernando Garavito on drums play at the Second Street Brewery on a Friday night. Right, Johny Broomdust performs on bass with the Broomdust Caravan at Tiny’s Restaurant & Lounge.

By Andrew McMillian Santa Fe is no Austin, but it does have a sizeable and growing local music scene. Here’s a sampling of the nightlife to be found in the City Different.

Try Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant and cantina, El Farol, for a nice variety of music including blues, Latin beats, American folk and more. For the seventh straight year, the Canyon Road Blues Jam will get your toes tapping any given Tuesday from 8:30 p.m. to midnight, with no cover charge. 808 Canyon Road, 505-983-9912, www.elfarolsf.com.

Tiny’s Restaurant and Lounge will get your spirit moving several nights a week with some of Santa Fe’s best local bands. If you’re anxious to show Santa Fe your hidden talent for singing Carpenters classics, Saturday karaoke night is your big chance.

Remember to bring your dancing shoes or boots because patrons here are often up shaking a leg or two. No cover charge. 1015 Pen Road (southeast corner of Cerrillos and St. Francis), 505-983-9817, www.tinyssantafe.com.

The Cowgirl Hall of Fame is a true Santa Fe original and a favorite of locals and tourists alike, due in part to its famous barbecue and large pool hall. Folks also like its unassuming patrons, relaxed ambiance and nightly quality live music. With tunes ranging from country and bluegrass to folk and rock ’n’ roll, there’s always a lively, fun crowd at Cowgirl.

Rarely a cover for live music. 319 S. Guadalupe St., 505-982-2565, www.cowgirlsantafe.com.

Of course, the Second Street Brewery is a Santa Fe favorite for superb hand-crafted pints, but they also cater to music lovers nearly every night starting at

6 p.m. with no cover. Listen to country, alt country, bluegrass or just some good old straightforward rock ’n’ roll with your pint and fish and chips. You’ll love this easygoing, festive atmosphere at both their original location at 1814 Second St. and their newer digs in the Railyard off Guadalupe Street. 505-9893278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com/secondstreet-brewery-at-the-railyard.

For the past 45 years, Evangelo’s Cocktail Lounge has been one of Santa Fe’s most renowned music spots. Some of the best blues, rock, Dixieland and jazz acts have graced Evangelo’s stage. Grab a brew from their huge selection of beers from around the world. It’s not uncommon to find someone famous right next to you, beer in hand, taking in this truly original bar. Cash only, cover charge. 200 W. San Francisco St., 505-982-9014, www.thesantafevip. com/evangelos-cocktail-lounge.

If you’re looking for soothing soft rock and relaxing new age music that will put you in bed at 9 p.m., The Underground is not your place. Located directly below Evangelo’s Cocktail Lounge, this dive regularly hosts live music performances squeezed between its low ceiling and concrete floor that will rattle your eardrums. You’ll also regularly find DJs spinning records into the next morning, delighting Santa Fe’s young, hip residents. Cover charge.

200 W. San Francisco St., 505-982-9014.

If the Underground doesn’t quite satisfy your leaning toward raunchy, fun-loving folks with iffy hygiene, perhaps the raw, stripped-down milieu of The Matador will meet your standards. Here, in one of Santa Fe’s most unique watering holes, the graffiti58

W int erli f e 2 01 3-1 4

covered walls supply the perfect backdrop for live DJs spinning soul, punk, reggae and ska into the next morn. No cover charge. 116 W. San Francisco St., 505984-5050, www.505bands.com/the-matador.html.

Six nights a week, La Fonda’s Fiesta Lounge has some of Santa Fe’s premium bands warming up the house with blues, old-school soul, Texas two-step, rock ‘n’ roll, jazz and country music for a foot tappin’, hand-clappin’ good time. For those staying at La Fonda on the Plaza, listening to this unique musical experience is just a short walk away. No cover charge. 100 E. San Francisco St., 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com/diningand-entertainment/la-fiesta-lounge.

Check out the cool, laid-back vibe of Low ’n Slow Lowrider Bar at Hotel Chimayó. The walls are adorned with beautifully shot photographs of lowrider cars, complemented by others of interesting people chosen by the photographer. Enjoy a beer or cocktail while listening to some quality jazz on Friday nights and music several nights a week. No cover. 125 Washington Ave., 505-988-4900, www. hotelchimayo.com/santa-fe-dining.

Other venues for catching live music and DJ-led raves include Vanessie’s (427 W. Water St., 505982-9966, www.vanessiesantafe.com), La Casa Sena’s La Cantina (125 E. Palace Ave., 505-9889232, www.lacasasena.com), The Palace (142 W. Palace Ave., 505-428-0690, www.palacesantafe. com), Rouge Cat (101 W. Marcy St., 505-983-6603, www.rougecat.com) and the Dragon Room (406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-983-7712, www.thepinkadobe. com/dragonroom.php).

Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

59

Heroes of Winter

The plowman cometh

By Devon Hawkes Ludlow For Ski Santa Fe regulars, it’s a familiar sight during the winter months — massive orange snowplows churning up and down Hyde Park Road, aka State Highway 475. It’s awe-inspiring to see the plows send waves of snow soaring over the guardrail into the woods below. The plows are, in many ways, the lifeline of the ski basin, which draws locals and tourists alike, pumping much-needed dollars into our local economy. It’s a critical job, but it’s always been a bit of a mystery to most people. Heading up that long and winding road, I’ve often wondered who pilots these plows. What is their story? For me, it was a dream come true when I got the chance to sit down with a pair of these winter warriors and get the inside scoop on the life of a snowplow driver.

Nelson Terrazas has the easygoing and steady manner that comes with handling a 24,000pound vehicle on the edge of a cliff in every kind of weather. He’s been pushing around snow on highway 475 for four years now, and during the warm months he is a Bridge Crew supervisor for New Mexico Department of Transportation (DOT) District 5. His supervisor, Kenneth Gallegos, the highway maintenance manager for DOT District 5, was kind enough to sit with me as well.

Professional and paternal, you get the feeling that Gallegos has seen it all.

“I love snow,” says Terrazas with a laugh. “I used to snowmobile, but this job cuts into the snowmobiling time.”

This is not an easy job. On winter mornings at 4 a.m., when most of us are drooling on our pillows, Terrazas wakes, heads out into the freezing cold and climbs the steps to his double-axle, 13-gear, manual, 10-foot reversible Henke snowplow. He and one other driver in a motor grader work from Artist Road to the ski area and back, 5 a.m. to 5 p.m.

— wind, snow or shine — clearing 16.1 miles of snow each way, often seven days a week, including holidays. The plow clears one side while the grader levels, and then on the way down they launch the mounds of snow over the guardrail in those awesome 18-foot-high cascades.

Terrazas paints a picture of a snowy day on the job for me: “We’re up there first, so the snow is virgin. When it’s snowing, up there at 4 o’clock, it’s dark. You can’t see the road, and the strobe lights are going, which blind you sometimes.” And when it’s not snowing? “That’s sometimes worse, when it’s windy and it all turns to ice.”

“A lot is memory,” says Gallegos. “Being familiar

Kitty Leaken

Nelson Terrazas next to his double-axle, 13-gear, manual, 10-foot reversible Henke snowplow.

with the road, you know where the asphalt curves.

The crews have encountered trees and branches, and when the embankment is exposed, rocks roll down. It’s pretty scary because suddenly you feel something other than snow on your plow.” Drivers also run into wild game, which love the salt the road crew spreads. Terrazas shrugs. “Gotta be on your toes.”

But the biggest challenge, by far, are the people.

Drivers often see pedestrians hitchhiking up the road, or folks who got stuck in an embankment.

Terrazas says, “The thing is, a lot of these people, they leave their cars whenever they get stuck, even right in the middle of the road.” Gallegos adds, “They get stuck up there, they’re focused on snowboarding or whatever, and they’ll just get their gear and hike up to the basin and just leave their vehicle stranded.”

The biggest danger of all? “People who don’t have the proper vehicle and who are not aware of the elements,” says Gallegos. “The greatest fear is that when they’re coming down the mountain and they see the plow, the first thing they do is slam on the brakes. Our drivers have to choose between a vehicle that’s out of control and the guardrail.”

Terrazas adds that he’s even seen a Ferrari trying

to go up the mountain. “When I first went up there, I didn’t trust the guardrail. But believe or not, the guardrail will hold up the truck.” I file this piece of information somewhere important in my mind.

So how does Terrazas handle these long shifts of blizzards, spinning cars, salt-mad deer and oblivious pedestrians? “You just get into the zone, turn off the music and do your job. I have my twoway radio in case something happens. There are times when the radio goes dead, though, in certain zones.” Gallegos says, “When that happens, you don’t wanna think the worst, but you’re thinking the worst. If the truck breaks down and it’s 5 in the morning and the wind’s blowing and [there’s] zero visibility ….”

Does all this intensity and high stakes wear on Terrazas? Does he dread the winter? He says, laughing, “I look forward to winter every year. I love the snow.”

So, this year when the snow flies and you clamber up the cold face of the Sangre de Cristos, keep a look out for the huge orange trucks lumbering up and down the road, and give great thanks for the guys who are clearing a path for you.

“We’re here to serve the public,” says Gallegos with a smile.

So, this year when the snow flies and you clamber up the cold face of the Sangre de Cristos, keep a look out for the huge orange trucks lumbering up and down the road, and give great thanks for the guys who are clearing a path for you.

60

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

ANTIQUES +INTERIORS

ON GRANT

14 Quality Antiques Dealers under one roof.

136 Grant Avenue

983-0075

Free customer parking

SANTA FE EXCHANGE santafe newmexican .com/ WEATHER

OLD TIME TRADING POST Current Conditions 7-Day Forecast Interactive Radar Map

You turn to us.

•

OLD TIME PRICES

•

JEWELRY AND COLLECTIBLES 525 West Cordova Road • 505.983.2043 Tuesday - Friday 10:30am - 5:30 pm • Saturday 12 pm - 5pm Winter Guide for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

61

Spectacular Shopping & Great Gifts

Retreat, Relax, Rejuvenate This winter, soak your bones in the steamy, soothing, sacred hot springs at Ojo Caliente.

20% Off Skier’s Special Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any Nm Ski resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging.

Valid 7 days a week, excluding holidays. Dec. 1, 2013 - April 30, 2014. One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access.

Less than an hour North of Santa Fe.

Call 505.583.2233 or visit ojospa.com for specials.

BeST Day Trip FrOm SaNTa Fe - Santa Fe Reporter Reader’s Choice

ojocaliente

Sulfur-free Mineral Springs • New Kiva Pool for Lodgers Private Outdoor Pools w/firepalces • Full-service Spa • Enchanting Suites • Restaurant & Wine Bar

62

W inter li fe 2 01 3-1 4

Open 7 days a week • 11am – 4pm • 203 West Water St. • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • www.casweckgalleries.com • 505.988.2966

Dunham Aurelius Ruminative Figures SCULPTURES November 15 through December 27 OPENING RECEPTION:

Friday, November 15, 5-7 pm Artist will be present

Emily Cheng WholeInOne PAINTINGS AND WORKS ON PAPER October 25 through November 22 OPENING RECEPTION: Friday, October 25, 5-7 pm Artist will be present

Roger Atkins In Case of Emergency MIXED MEDIA ASSEMBL AGES October 25 through November 22 OPENING RECEPTION:

Friday, October 25, 5-7 pm Artist will be present

435 South Guadalupe, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505 982-8111 zanebennettgallery.com Tuesday–Saturday 10–5 or by appointment

RAILYARD ARTS DISTRICT WALK LAST FRIDAY OF EVERY MONTH