Slices of Sydney
Slices of Sydney makes up a ten course experiential meal, a degustation. Taste the distinct flavours of each village. A bus, train and cycle networkcrisscrosses the city, and so the order in which your courses are served isup to you. Be it the design-skewed sheen of Surry Hills; the indie scent ofNewtown; the modern tribalism relished in Redfern or the nonstop liberalheat of Kings Cross, each village will encourage you to find a new dimensiononly discoverable through experience.
slices of sydney a taste of our villages 1 Slices of Sydney makes up a ten course experiential meal, a degustation. Taste the distinct flavours of each village. A bus, train and cycle network crisscrosses the city, and so the order in which your courses are served is up to you. Be it the design-skewed sheen of Surry Hills; the indie scent of Newtown; the modern tribalism relished in Redfern or the nonstop liberal heat of Kings Cross, each village will encourage you to find a new dimension only discoverable through experience. "Sydney is a city of villages. Each community radiates a unique essence. Taste the culture and take away a slice of Sydney." ClovEr MoorE MP, lord Mayor of SydnEy 2 Calendar of major events MAY�AUGUST Sydney Writers' Festival swf.org.au Events & festivals to watch for while in Sydney JANUARY�APRIL Sydney Film Festival sff.org.au Vivid Sydney vividsydney.com SEPTEMBER�DECEMBER Sydney Children's Festival sydneychildrensfestival.com Art & About cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/artandabout Biennale biennaleofsydney.com.au Crave Sydney International Food Festival cravesydney.com Sydney Fringe Festival thesydneyfringe.com.au Sydney Christmas & New Year Celebrations cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/Christmas cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/nye Sydney Festival sydneyfestival.org.au Sydney Chinese New Year Festival cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/CNY Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras mardigras.org.au Tropfest tropfest.com 3 Getting around town PUBLIC TRANSPoRT BICYCLING Trains, buses and ferries are all interconnected, so you can hop between villages speedily. Sydney's villages are well serviced by public transport � trains, buses or both � and the inner city also has Light Rail and Monorail systems. Multi-trip bus tickets are available from most newsagencies, convenience stores and kiosks around the city. Look for retailers displaying MyZone or PrePay signage. Most bus trips require a PrePay ticket. For more information, call the free Transport Infoline on 131 500 or visit 131500.com. TAxIS Major connecting routes now consider the modern cyclist. Visit cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/cycling for more information including route maps. You can also hire bikes to explore the city independently or with a tour. ShoPPING TIMES Taxis are available when the yellow light is on and change over time is at 3pm, and 3am, when flagging one down is a little trickier. There are a range of taxi companies operating in Sydney. Most shops, department stores and shopping centres are open from around 10am�5pm Monday to Saturday and increasingly on Sunday. Late night shopping usually occurs on Thursday evenings, with many stores and shopping centres open until 9 or 10pm. Occasionally some shops will be closed on Mondays. IN AN EMERGENCY Dial 000 for 24-hour emergency services (fire, police and ambulance) from any telephone. Police assistance line: 131 444. 4 OBJECT G A L L E RY f l in d e b ou r k rs st campb e l l st e st rd c row n st st n st a l bio ox go ul HARMONY PA R K bu rn st fo S U R RY H I L L S L I B R A RY LEGEND f ov elizab eth st B E L M O R E PA R K e au ma ry st xs com mo nw ealth st t holt st Train Station Cycleway Parks What's Hot Free wi-fi 0 5 mins walk ch al me rs st central 400m 5 s ou t h d o w l in g st BRETT WHITELEY STUDIO b ou r k e st Surry Hills The original home to Sydney's rag trade, Surry Hills has evolved into a premier design village of crisp artisan concepts. Swells of coffee complement the woody designs of contemporary furniture and natural furnishings. The craft-based networks of Surry Hills constantly participate in Sydney's cultural evolution with a gentle eye on the global future of design. c row n st re st de vo ns hi B E LVO I R T H E AT R E el iza be th st PRINCE ALFRED PA R K cle ve la nd s t 6 Stride with fervour & dress without rules woRD oN ThE STREET � Cycleway on Bourke street � The price of real estate � Got a dolla? S U RRY h IL L S 7 TYPICAL LoCAL DEFINING ExPERIENCE Poking around in village shops for a piece of contemporary furniture, lining up outside a restaurant that takes no bookings and dominating iPod wars at the pub. KNowN FoR Typically atypical, Surry Hills locals are a motley cast of young professionals, creative types and radiant originals from post-war migrations of Greek and Italian people. With a median age of 32, this diverse suburb attracts animated humans who stride with fervour, dress without rules and have forged a very good work/play balance. They are third generation shoemakers, eco shop owners, twenty something graphic designers and Kylie Kwong. � Art and design talent � Rag trade roots � Surry Hills Markets � first Saturday of every month � Beer gardens � Cheap steak nights � Niche cuisines and fusions � Community veggie gardens � Dog friendly atmosphere S U RRY h IL L S 8 URBAN LEGEND In 1985 expressionist Brett Whiteley built a studio and private dwelling in an old T-shirt factory on Raper Street. The chaos and atmosphere have been preserved as a free museum. The entrance is tucked in an alley and marked by a tiny version of `Almost Once', a sculpture featuring two redhead matchsticks. S U RRY h IL L S 9 SEE A letterbox replica of the church and former home of eccentric artist Madame Lash on Cleveland Street TASTE Freshly baked organic spelt sourdough SMELL The smell of fresh coffees and paninis in the air Do Pedal down Bourke Street cycleway with a basket full of produce wATCh Dog/owner lookalikes BUY Ironic knitted sweaters from second hand shops AFTER DARK Buzzing on Crown and Bourke Streets, and Cleveland between Elizabeth and Crown S U RRY h IL L S 10 n om st barc THREE SAINTS S Q UA R E un bo st ry da dowlin g st COLLEGE OF F I N E A RT S PA D D I N G TO N TOW N H A L L , C H AU V E L CINEMA & L I B R A RY south gl en mo re rd gl e rd fo ox st PA D D I N G TO N R E S E RVO I R GARDENS V I C TO R I A B A R R AC K S fli LEGEND t rs s nde moore p ark rd M O O R E PA R K mo or ep ar k rd Free Wi-fi Parks What's Hot 11 m en Paddington cascade st or er d ox fo rd st Paddington is bound by a love of heritage homes, leafy residential streets and flagship designer boutiques. Rows of chalky pastel terraces house Sydney's emerging and established sartorial scene. In Paddington artisans make chocolate and underwear by hand and have style that transcends seasonal fashions. el iz ab et h st 0 5 mins walk CENTENNIAL PA R K 400m 12 Sophisticated class with considered quirks woRD oN ThE STREET � "Is that an Akira?" � Yummy mummies � 40km speed limit on back streets PA D DI NG T oN 13 TYPICAL LoCAL Paddington locals are a sophisticated class with considered quirks. They are business minded innovators in art and fashion and young families who eat well, dress well and are proud of the heritage of their village. DEFINING ExPERIENCE Walking to the tailor and completing the outfit at the shoemaker and milliner across the street. KNowN FoR � Paddington Markets � Saturdays � Boutique shopping � Launch pad for emerging fashion talent � Art galleries � The Royal Hotel, the oldest in the village � One of the earliest settled areas of Sydney PA D DI NG T oN 14 URBan LEgEnd Ex-convict entrepreneur and gin distiller Robert Cooper named Paddington after a London borough and built Juniper Hall in the early 1820s, Paddington's oldest home. Paddington Markets, Sydney's longest running community market, started in 1973 as a meeting ground for a handful of artists and designers to mingle, sell their wares and discuss the Vietnam War. Since then it has evolved into a thriving weekend market and a platform for an impressive cast of Australian design talent including Lisa Ho and Dinosaur Designs. pa d di ng ton 15 SEE The sunken water garden at architectural urban park Paddington Reservoir Gardens TASTE Hand-made chocolate bits on William Street SMELL The recycled tissue paper around your latest purchase Do Browse through racks of emerging fashion talent at Paddington Markets wATCh An arthouse film at Chauvel Cinema BUY A bespoke accessory from a flagship designer store AFTER DARK Pubs and venues on Oxford St near South Dowling St (Three Saints Square) PA D DI NG T oN 16 n carillon av mis sen rd den D E N DY CINEMAS ki N E W TOW N L I B R A RY ng st ENMORE T H E AT R E en e rd mor r aust alia st S T R E E T A RT MURALS st son wil sk er in i ev ll erskineville station newtown station st ren bur t rt s albe d er kin g st C R E AT E YO UR OWN STO RY... 17 macdonaldtown station LEGEND 0 rove en g gold st C A R R I AG E WO R K S wil son st newtown Train Station Free Wi-fi Parks What's Hot 400m 5 mins walk On King Street you can dine on cuisine from any nation, listen to music of any genre, dress in the style of any decade and hold anyone's hand you like. Find vegan foods, indie music, street art and retro fashion circuits within this warm cluster of worker's cottages, warehouse bookshops, record stores and independent retailers. Newtown is a contemporary bohemia where dreamers and lovers wander between salty pub bistros, laneway festivals and fruity street performances. 18 friendly free thinkers who work outside the system woRD oN ThE STREET � It's impossible to park �King Street traffic �Pub renovations �Where all the squatters went N E wT ow N 19 DEFINING ExPERIENCE A sneeze in a dusty bookshop, an in-store gig in a record shop and a local art show. KNowN FoR � Buzzing local pride � Wide variety of food options � Distinct subcultures � Unpretentious � Broad cultural appeal � Pop-up Newtown Markets � Newtown Festival�November � The Sydney Fringe Festival � September TYPICAL LoCAL Newtown locals are friendly free thinkers who work outside the system. Their customised realities and independent businesses afford them great happiness. The bulk of Newtown's 14000 residents are well educated, live in share housing but have a loyalty to Newtown and may never leave. They are students, professionals, screen printers, healers and guitarists who are friendly and like to participate in free eco street festivals. Credit for mural: I Have A Dream, Andrew Aiken and Juilee Pryor, 1991 N E wT ow N 20 URBAN LEGEND Music has always been at the heart and soul of Newtown. In 1923 words and music to "Newtown is an Old Town (that I love)" were published by A.F. Lenertz (best known for the lyrics "I Love Aeroplane Jelly"). In the 1980s John Kennedy celebrated local landmarks and characters with his single "On King St I'm A King" and The Whitlams promote the local music scene with their hit "Blow Up the Pokies". More recently John Jacobs created the Wheelie Bin Sound System. You can now make your own by placing a car stereo in a 600L wheelie bin or on the back of a bicycle. Among Newtown's notable residents are Murray Cook, of the children's performing group The Wiggles, and Mary Reibey (1777�1855) a pioneering entrepreneur whose portrait graces the $20 note. N E wT ow N 21 SEE The giant `I Have a Dream' mural featuring Martin Luther King and the Aboriginal flag on King Street that was originally sponsored by local philanthropist Tony Spanos TASTE The cuisine of any nation in the atlas SMELL The local pride Do Spot the distinctions between Newtown tribes from a King Street caf� wATCh A cult film at a retro restaurant, or a busker BUY A camel skin lamp AFTER DARK Find high energy, low lit hotspots anywhere, anytime N E wT ow N 22 A FO kings cross library college st H Y D E PA R K stanl ey st bourk e st st hu rst rd ia st dar l st N burton st NAT I O NA L A RT SCHOOL ox fo rd st victor ox fo rd crown ing s ry bounda south THREE SAINTS S Q UA R E TAY LO R S Q UA R E 0 5 mins walk 400m da r li willia m st t kings cross station l ke baysw kings c ate ros s rd victor ia st ng hu rs tr le d COCA COLA SIGN t dowlin bourke st rs st flinde g st 23 ALAMEIN O U N TA I N green macle ay st know e av eli za be th d yr ba e t st er rd darlinghurst Kings Cross av d craigen d st cl ma hl ac an LEGEND Train Station Free Wi-fi Cycleway Parks What's Hot Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are gracious old places that have seen many faces. Towering art deco structures, former adult shops and tattoo parlours now foster a young art and dining scene. This densely populated landscape is radically authentic, story laden and stays awake all night. The hills and valleys of its urban cartography parallel the high lives and low times of its alternative history. 24 Harmonious edit of gen y's, young couples, queer communities and eccentrics woRD oN ThE STREET D A RL I NG hU RS T & K IN GS CR o S S � "Oversexed, overpaid and over here" � "Is that a man or a woman?" � "You find this ugly, I find it lovely" � "Why she's practically naked" 25 TYPICAL LoCAL While aesthetically driven the people of Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are open to difference. The harmonious edit of gen Y's, young couples, queer communities and eccentrics are openminded go-getters whose cosmopolitan lives are forced to overlap in the most populated slice of Sydney. DEFINING ExPERIENCE Hopping between bars on Burton Street before a caffeine hit at a 24-hour coffeehouse. KNowN FoR � Mardi Gras � March � Kings Cross Organic Markets � Saturdays � Sydney Sustainable Markets, Taylor Square � Saturdays � Carlotta, a transgender showgirl, who was the inspiration for the film Priscilla Queen of the Desert. � Tropicana Cafe, birthplace of the Tropfest Short Film Festival � Sydney's red light district D A RL I NG hU RS T & K IN GS CR o S S 26 URBAN LEGEND In 1927 a pistol license law with heavy jail terms saw Darlinghurst gangs arm themselves with razors. Darlinghurst's notorious `razor gangs' were fronted by heavyweight and brothel Madame, Matilda `Tilly' Devine and documented in the book Razor by Larry Writer. Australian writer Henry Lawson penned the poem `One Hundred and Three' in a sandstone cellblock of Darlinghurst Gaol. The site where he was held for drunkenness and non-payment of alimony is now open to students and the public as the National Art School. D A RL I NG hU RS T & K IN GS CR o S S 27 SEE The brass plates in Macleay Street sidewalks that tell stories of the area's electric past TASTE Vietnamese rolls or gourmet burgers SMELL The high turn over of coffee beans keeping the place awake Do Sample Sydney's young small bar scene wATCh The Wayside Chapel come alive with community activists and eccentrics with curious pets BUY D A RL I NG hU RS T & K IN GS CR o S S A local revision of the cosmopolitan cocktail AFTER DARK Alive on Burton Street, Victoria Street, Liverpool Street, Bayswater Road and Oxford Street 28 n A N D R E W B OY C H A R LTO N POOL FINGER WHARF ROYA L B OTA N I C GARDENS CO WP ER WH AR FR OA DW AY CHAL L IS ST E AY ST McELHONE S TA I R S GC RES UN IB U TO KE ST YO R V IC TO R IA ST M AC L A RT G A L L E RY OF NSW N G S ST C R OW N ST E A ST E R N D IS TR IR BOUR JO H R IL E Y W IL LI AM ST DA RL IN GH UR ST RD 29 Potts Point Woolloomooloo ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE G R EE N K N OW E ST LEGEND Cycleway Parks Water What's Hot Potts Point and Woolloomooloo swoon you with their old and new architecture and melange of Italian delis, Japanese sake bars, New Yorkstyle cafes and wharf restaurants. This refined edit of notable food and drink sensations maintains a reputation as Sydney's cosmopolitan quarter for modern urbanites. 0 5 mins walk 400m 30 young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side woRD oN ThE STREET Po TT S P oIN T & wo o L L oo Moo L oo � The tourists � Wagyu and the wharf � Pie and peas at Harry's � "There's Russell." 31 TYPICAL LoCAL KNowN FoR Young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side at local bus stops. They operate in private circles, are polite and keep to themselves. Restaurateurs, playwrights, art directors and doctors muse over their strong views on wine while couples shop for their friend's children's toys. DEFINING ExPERIENCE � Sydney's piece of New York � Cosmopolitan atmosphere � The restaurants along the wharf � Embarkation Park � Harry's Caf� de Wheels Coffee at the Parisian end of Macleay Street under oak trees and a wander down eclectic Challis Street. Po TT S P oIN T & wo o L L oo Moo L oo 32 URBAN LEGEND An elegant construction of the 1830s, Elizabeth Bay house complete with elegant oval saloon, sky-lit dome and curving staircase was used as a squat by artists, writers and poets between 1928 and 1935. Po TT S P oIN T & wo o L L oo Moo L oo In a city where most lived in houses, in the early 1920s the residents of Potts Point lived in tiny flats or bed sits. The impetus for much of the precinct's apartment building drew from the decline of the young male population in World War 1 and legacy of young women, who needed proximity to the city to work. 33 SEE Look up at the Art Deco buildings to find slices of Paris and New York TASTE Raw Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio dishes at luxe alfresco dining spots SMELL Egyptian dukkah on Hunter Valley Labna cheese Do The sharp incline of McElhone stairway that runs from Woolloomooloo to Victoria Street wATCh Po TT S P oIN T & wo o L L oo Moo L oo The harbour between breaststrokes at Andrew Boy Charlton pool BUY A designer toy for a friend's baby AFTER DARK Hot on Macleay, Challis Avenue and Finger Wharf 34 BLACKWATTLE CAF� JUBILEE PA R K JUBILEE PARK GL EB OI EP TH EC ES CE N NT R RD GLEBE LEGEND T GLEBE LIBRARY W IG M RA RD M IN OG UE BR CR RD GE K ID AR YP LE FO ES RD Light Rail Foreshore Walk Free Wi-fi Parks What's Hot BR ID GE ST S RO JO S HN RD SS T GLEBE TOW N H A L L n 35 SYDNEY FISH MARKET I BR DG ER D Glebe TL WAT E ST WENTWORTH PARK ST JO HN SR D Glebe is a feast of fresh air in verdant parklands, expansive water vistas, and eclectic shopping. The vitality and openness of its student population support the seemingly endless gathering of second hand bookshops, new age outlets, ethnic eateries, recycled fashion boutiques and Saturday markets on Glebe Point Road. BAY ST GLEBE MARKETS PARRAMAT EB GL EP BROADWAY CINEMAS 0 5 mins walk 400m TA RD OI NT RD 36 locals sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dog woRD oN ThE STREET � Free WiFi at Foley Park wireless house � Budget meals and beds � "Dinner, movie and gelato?" GL EB E 37 TYPICAL LoCAL Regardless of their profession as heritage architects, academics, baristas or nurses, Glebe dwellers love to walk. They are fun drinkers and talkers who sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dog that morning. DEFINING ExPERIENCE Picking up some literature from one of the many bookstores and reading the afternoon away at a cafe. KNowN FoR � Value for money meals � Glebe Markets � Saturday � Abundance of bookshops � Victorian architecture � Glebe Foreshore Walk � Glebe Street Fair�November � Chatty cafes & lively pubs � Alternative health and well being GL EB E 38 URBAN LEGEND The Sydney United Friendly Society Dispensary opened in January 1909. The health professionals of this voluntary initiative dispensed ointments, gargles, leeches, camel hair, poppy heads and chamomile flowers in the bottles and jars of patients. Two tables commemorate this precursor of modern health funds at 33 Glebe Point Road. Glebe Point Road's tram system was active until the 1950s and originally the main transport line to connect an abattoir with the city. Going to the pictures had an added dimension at The Glebe Moving Picture Show in 1910. Proprietor and Methodist, John `Jack' Law staged boxing exhibitions and vaudeville acts by `Reckless Reggie' before films at the 84 Glebe Point Road site. You can still catch a movie at Broadway. GL EB E 39 SEE The elaborate facades and tessellated tile paths of matchbox terraces and stone gatehouses on Glebe's architecture walk TASTE The cuisine of three different continents in a single day SMELL Spring and Autumn engulf the lush landscape Do Spot the original Glebe caf� that boasts 28 years of bad manors (sic) wATCh Bottle brush sway in waterside breeze from one of Jubilee Park's picnic sheds BUY A recommended Australian non-fiction release from an independent bookseller AFTER DARK Recline with wine in nooks on Glebe Point Road GL EB E 40 n C L EV RD ELAN D ST E ST G EO RG CI TY ABE C A R R I AG E WO R K S & EVELEIGH MARKETS RC R OM ST BIE ST RE D FE RN BON GIB REG ENT ST AU S T R A L I A N T E C H N O LO G Y PA R K redfern station S ST WIL SON ST REDFERN PA R K RAGL AN ST E ST RD ANY B OT LEGEND NAT I O NA L C E N T R E FOR INDIGENOUS E XC E L L E N C E Train Station Free Wi-fi Cycleway Parks What's Hot McE G E O RG S VOY E ST E O RG T G CH AL ME RS PITT ST ST 41 CL EV EL AN DS redfern Waterloo T ST BA PT IS T BO U RK H ST E ST DAN KS ST WAT E R LO O L I B R A RY YO U N G ST L AC H M cEVO Y ST L A N ST SO U T H PH IL LI P ST PYD BUILDING Redfern and Waterloo combine their Aboriginal roots and working class history with modern tribalism. The unvarnished, industrial atmosphere of these neighbouring pockets has lured contemporary art circles, vintage/retro furniture restorers and slow food aficionados. The nostalgic flavour of this village is deep with respect for what has gone before. EL IZ AB ET D OW LI N G ST O'D E A AV 0 5 mins walk 400m 42 active lovers of change and reflect australia's multi-ethnic population woRD oN ThE STREET RE DF E RN & w A T ERL oo � The Block � What produce is in season � "Redfern falls asleep early" 43 TYPICAL LoCAL Redfern and Waterloo people are active lovers of change and reflect Australia's multi-ethnic population. They operate with a DIY mentality and loyalty to the local economy, the original landowners the Cadigal people and you, if your ear is open. DEFINING ExPERIENCE Dealing direct with the farmer on a Saturday morning market spree before roaming the galleries with a Dandelion tea. KNowN FoR � Danks Street � Local football team The Rabbitohs � Eveleigh Farmer's Market � Redfern Community Markets in Redfern Park � Contemporary, retro and vintage furniture Credit for mural: Pemulwuy Park Mural, James Simon and Danny Eastwood, 1995 RE DF E RN & w A T ERL oo 44 URBAN LEGEND The Redfern Municipal Electric Light Station built in 1891 was Sydney's first supplier of electricity. In an era of dull gas street lamps, Redfern boasted electric versions and was literally the brightest place in Sydney. This power site was adaptively reused as the Rolling Stone Magazine headquarters and now houses antique dealer Martyn Cook. RE DF E RN & w A T ERL oo 45 SEE Handmade crafts from local makers at the Eveleigh Artisans Market at Carriageworks � first Sunday of every month TASTE Bacon and egg rolls and purple carrots fresh from the farm at weekend farmers' markets SMELL Change in the air Do Scamper between contemporary art exhibitions on George, Regent and Danks Streets wATCh The Rabbitohs train in Redfern Park oval BUY An iconic retro piece of furniture from the line up on Regent Street and Redfern Street AFTER DARK RE DF E RN & w A T ERL oo Find the hidden eateries scattered throughout 46 n To The rocks S Y D N E Y DA N C E C O. & BANGARRA DA N C E T H E AT R E tow ns pl y rd get dal on rd cks hi SYDNEY T H E AT R E n so ck hi rd windmill st argy le st 0 5 mins walk 400m 47 br ad fie l dh igh wa y Walsh Bay Millers Point Just past the great grey bridge, the heritage piers and charming backstreets of Walsh Bay resound with a world-class cultural rhythm. This art precinct of open-air sculpture galleries, modern theatre productions and dance initiatives is the heart of Sydney's performing arts scene. LEGEND Sculpture Walk Parks What's Hot 48 Ecoenthusiasts... `Greening the Wharf' woRD oN ThE STREET wA L S h B A Y & MI L L ERS PoI NT � Where to have post theatre drinks � Bump into Cate � Catching a daytime matinee � Solar panels on the wharf 49 TYPICAL LoCAL The locals of Walsh Bay are eco-enthusiasts who practice what they preach by `Greening the Wharf'. Advertising, media and arts businesses are attracted to the village's creative edge. DEFINING ExPERIENCE Walking the wharves with eyes wide open. KNowN FoR wA L S h B A Y & MI L L ERS PoI NT � Sydney Writers' Festival�May � Sydney Theatre Company � Sydney Dance Company � Bangarra Dance Theatre � Harbourside dining � Sandstone, cobblestone & wharves � Sculpture walk � Biennale 50 URBAN LEGEND The two storey Federation Free Style wharves and their associated shore sheds were built to modernise and manage Sydney's waterfront after the outbreak of the Bubonic Plague in January 1900: the foreshore was awash with rubbish and rats. After a dormant period from the 60s to the 80s, the wharves were renovated to house star associations like Sydney Theatre Company and Bangarra Dance Theatre�Australia's only national Aboriginal performing arts company. wA L S h B A Y & MI L L ERS PoI NT 51 SEE Local sandstone in watering holes like Hero of Waterloo, a gathering spot for the 1840s Garrison Troops of colonial days TASTE A gourmet sandwich on a striped deck chair overlooking the harbour SMELL The harbour breeze Do Find Brett Whiteley's towering Black Totem II and Jimmie Durham's head-turning Still Life With Stone and Car on the sculpture walk wATCh The boats draw patterns in the harbour from a pier restaurant BUY wA L S h B A Y & MI L L ERS PoI NT Tapas and watch the sun sink AFTER DARK Wonder at the flexibility of contemporary dancers 52 n australian national maritime museum pyrmont bridge darling harbour harbourside m ay st urr pyrmont bridge rd convention pyrmont bay union st JO BA Y ha rri s st john st square r eew ay PIRRAMA PA R K st ler mil poin t st sydney fish market west ern dist rib ut or f pi ama r rr p sydney heritage fleet d jon RF es W HA star city y rm on tb r ba y rd NE S TA R C I T Y CASINO S ha s st rri t ks ban wentwor park SYDNEY FISH MARKET n st alle rd ge id py r nt mo st 53 P OW E R H O U S E MUSEUM IAN THORPE AQ UAT I C CENTRE st fig tl wat e st w h iam ill ha r r is st y st enr Pyrmont Ultimo Pyrmont's industrial history unravels as you survey the panorama of wharves, woolstores, factories and golden sandstone under foot. This peninsular of casinos, fish markets, museums and IMAx movie theatres overlooks the ultramarine harbour and is home to a smooth dress up dining scene. rth To UTS & TafE LEGEND Light Rail Monorail Cycleway Parks What's Hot 0 5 mins walk 400m 54 locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs...by foot, bus or boat P Y RM o N T & UL TI M o woRD oN ThE STREET � Times are changing � Award-winning Pirrama Park � Out for breakfast lunch and dinner 55 TYPICAL LoCAL KNowN FoR Locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs as managers, administrators and professionals by foot, bus or boat. In their late twenties to early fifties, the majority understand the need to rebalance the relationship of man and machine in a new age of diminishing resources. DEFINING ExPERIENCE � Pyrmont Festival �May � Growers Market at Pyrmont Bay Park�Saturdays � Australian National Maritime Museum � Sydney Fish Market � Star City Casino � Lyric Theatre An extended brunch and string of coffees at a creative outdoor eatery on Jones Bay Wharf. P Y RM o N T & UL TI M o 56 URBAN LEGEND Pyrmont was purchased by John Macarthur for a gallon of rum. Pyrmont's `yellowblock' sandstone lies under foot and was used in building iconic Sydney buildings such as Sydney Town Hall on George Street and The Art Gallery of NSW. The quarries from which they were extracted were known locally as `Paradise', `Purgatory' and `Hellhole', in recognition of the difficulty of working the stone. P Y RM o N T & UL TI M o 57 SEE A science or design exhibition at The Powerhouse Museum TASTE Oysters and champagne at the Sydney Fish Market SMELL The yellowblock sandstone under foot at Union Square Do Roll the dice at Star City wATCh The uproar of wholesale fish auctions at 7am, a cool spectator sport BUY P Y RM o N T & UL TI M o An oriental rug wATCh BUY Dog/owner lookalikes. A musical at Buzzing Theatre Ironic knitted sweaters the Lyricon Crown Street, from second hand Bourke near Oxford shops. and Cleveland between Elizabeth & Crown. A F T E R D AA F T E R D A R K RK 58 n harbour st liverpo ol WO R L D S Q UA R E C H I NATOW N st CHINESE GARDEN t rs p ie harbour st goulb urn st sussex st dixon st george st E N T E RTA I N M E N T CENTRE PA D DY ' S MARKET H AY M A R K E T hay st MARKET CITY AND PA D DY ' S M A R K E T S H AY M A R K E T L I B R A RY campb ell st capitol square GOLDEN TREE pitt st thom as s t pitt st geor ge st ra ilw ay ac ce ss e riv gd lin dar hay st C A P I TO L T H E AT R E y st qua rd imo ult B E L M O R E PA R K y st qua ed dy av central station 59 castlereag h st elizabeth st Haymarket Chinatown av h rt wo nt we LEGEND Light Rail Monorail Train Station Pedestrian Street Parks What's Hot Free Wi-fi Everyday in Chinatown is a multi-Asian taste carnival. Opium dens and gambling lairs precede the modern microcosm of tea merchants, dumpling houses, neon food courts and Oriental food galleries. Follow your nose through this inner city labyrinth for exciting new tastes. elizabet h st 0 5 mins walk 400m 60 Blending tradition with modern techniques h A Y M A RK ET & C h IN A T owN woRD oN ThE STREET � International news � The exchange rate � `Irrashaimase' (typical greeting at traditional Japanese restaurants that means `welcome') 61 TYPICAL LoCAL Haymarket and Chinatown residents are resettled expatriates, international students and cosmopolitan business people who seek the buzz of Sydney's inner ring. They believe in blending tradition with modern techniques and the custom of coming together for meal time. DEFINING ExPERIENCE KNowN FoR h A Y M A RK ET & C h IN A T owN A Sunday morning spent selecting individual morsels from Yum Cha bamboo baskets on Dixon Street. � Markets � Entertainment Centre � Capitol Theatre � Open late � High intensity social scene � The Metro Light Rail network � Asian Australian installation artwork 62 URBAN LEGEND Above the hustle and bustle of today's Dixon Street lie the remnants of a mysterious and sometimes dark past of long-gone opium dens and gambling halls. Yum cha is a Cantonese term, which literally means, "drink tea" and is closely associated with dim sum, a wide range of small dishes. The link has roots on the ancient Silk Road where teahouses were established to rest travellers. After tea was found to be a digestion aid, snacks were added to the menu. Originating with the Cantonese in southern China, the culinary art and respite of yum cha has transformed into a loud and colourful dining experience. h A Y M A RK ET & C h IN A T owN 63 SEE Wicker steamers full of plump dumplings TASTE Roast Peking duck with plum sauce SMELL Multiple cuisines at once Do Wander the rainbow isles of Paddy's Markets, a trinket and fresh produce emporium wATCh Avid fans line up outside a holein-the-wall dealer of miniature custard puffs baked fresh 12pm to 9pm on Dixon Street BUY h A Y M A RK ET & C h IN A T owN A rare natural curative from a wall of Chinese herbs AFTER DARK Squeeze your way through the Friday night market on Dixon Street mall 64 Useful resources Information about events, entertainment, shopping, eating & local highlights whatson.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au urbanwalkabout.com concreteplayground.com.au timeoutsydney.com.au twothousand.com.au smh.com.au abc.net.au/sydney fbiradio.com 2ser.com dailytelegraph.com.au cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/ aboutsydney sydney.com eventssydney.com cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/barani love2010.com.au thesydneyfringe.com.au pucc.com.au haymarketchamber.org.au chinatown.com.au kingscrossonline.com.au newtownprecinct.com.au paddingtonsydney.com.au walshbaysydney.com.au facebook.com/redfernwaterloo glebe.com.au ssbchamber.com.au sydneycycleways.net Published and produced by Urban Walkabout on behalf of City of Sydney Design and illustration by Boccalatte Copyright 2011 City of Sydney Editorial Enquiries: City of Sydney Marketing T: 9265 9333 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Photography by Helen White Glebe � alueformoneymeals V � lebeMarkets�Saturday G �Abundanceofbookshops � ictorianarchitecture V �GlebeForeshoreWalk � lebeStreetFair�November G �Chattycafes&livelypubs � lternativehealthandwellbeing A Surry Hills Paddington � ydneyWriters'Festival�May S �SydneyTheatreCompany �SydneyDanceCompany �BangarraDanceTheatre �Harboursidedining S � andstone,cobblestone &wharves �Sculpturewalk �Biennale �PaddingtonMarkets �Saturdays �Boutiqueshopping �Launchpadforemerging fashiontalent �Artgalleries �TheRoyalHotel,theoldest inthevillage �Oneoftheearliestsettled areasofSydney Walsh Bay Millers Point A TASTe of oUR VillAGeS SliceS of Sydney �Artanddesigntalent �Ragtraderoots � urryHillsMarkets�first S Saturdayofeverymonth �Beergardens �Cheapsteaknights �Nichecuisinesandfusions �Communityveggiegardens �Dogfriendlyatmosphere Pyrmont Ultimo �PyrmontFestival�May � rowersMarketatPyrmont G BayPark�Saturdays � ustralianNationalMaritime A Museum �SydneyFishMarket �StarCityCasino �LyricTheatre newtown Potts Point Woolloomooloo �Sydney'spieceofNewYork �Cosmopolitanatmosphere � herestaurantsalongthewharf T �EmbarkationPark �Harry'sCaf�deWheels �Buzzinglocalpride �Widevarietyoffoodoptions �Distinctsubcultures �Unpretentious �Broadculturalappeal �Pop-upNewtownMarkets �NewtownFestival� November �TheSydneyFringeFestival �September Haymarket chinatown �DanksStreet � ocalfootballteam L TheRabbitohs �EveleighFarmer'sMarket � edfernCommunity R MarketsinRedfernPark � ontemporary,retroand C vintagefurniture darlinghurst Kings cross �MardiGras�March K � ingsCrossOrganicMarkets�Saturdays �SydneySustainableMarkets,TaylorSquare�Saturdays � arlotta,atransgendershowgirl,whowastheinspirationfor C thefilmPriscillaQueenoftheDesert. � ropicanaCafe,birthplaceoftheTropfestShortFilmFestival T �Sydney'sredlightdistrict �Markets �EntertainmentCentre �CapitolTheatre �Openlate �Highintensitysocialscene T � heMetroLightRailnetwork A � sianAustralian installationartwork Redfern Waterloo The Rocks rd tow ns p n so ck hi argy le easter victo tb g d er dg ri ria st west ern dist rib ut o st mil r fr eeway ler st union st j sir oh n yo ung n dist ribut cres or bour ke st n py rm on windmill st m urray st Potts Point Woolloomooloo reenknow macle e st b jon e bourke st br id g d er da rl jubilee park william st fig st hyde park et st bay ke swate r rd ll in gh alle n st Darling Harbour har liverpo eli za be th crow ur st City Centre college st stanle riley n st rd ay st rd ay st sb n rd ckso hi ay bra dfi e Village locator Sydney Opera House hig hw a royal botanical gardens rd c ow per ld wh arf pi ama rr Walsh Bay Millers Point dal y ro a dw ay rd poin t st ha s st rri l get rd ma ra pir on pyrm t bridge rd y rd pyr nt mo st s st rri ha ks ban t y st kings cr dar lin Surry HillS (page 4) craigend st oss rd en t wentworth park Pyrmont Ultimo am lli ol st 1kmsouth-eastoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~40mins ac hl an av gl thom as s t rd gl en m pi st cascade tt jo hn dy st av st d sr gl eb ep oi ed e rd or e gl nm i br om st barc ore rd city et h st Sydney University clevel and st moore p ark r d el iz ab rd ci ty elizabeth st ng st ki Newtown i ev in sk er th e c eb ep oin re ris crown st wa sc tr d rd st ghu ttl victoria st r st pie dar ling e st he st nry wi rst goulb urn st ox or th av fo rd a gr wi mi n m st er d j n oh sr d hay st campb ell st hay st n we tw gol st burton st m bou nda ry st l ac paddington (page 10) elizabeth st harbour st ca rd sussex st dixon st stlereagh st bou rn st og ue cr es dg ult im d or campbel l st Kings Cross Darlinghurst campb ell st flinders 3kmeastoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~40mins newtown (page 16) dri ve ha rri Haymarket Chinatown georg e st commonwealth st mary st 4kmsouth-westoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~40mins darlingHurSt/KingS CroSS (page 22) wa ttl es t s st crown qu ay bourk bay st st ox st fo rd b d er dg ri Glebe albio ch st e st ro ss st st n st r geo parramatta rd ge st st fov Paddington nt rd al me rs eau xs t 1�2kmeastoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~25�30mins pottS point/woolloomooloo (page 28) fo rd st elizabeth st reg ent st prince alfred park Surry Hills de vo ns crown st ox hir es t mo or e moore park pa 1.5km�3kmeastoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~20�25mins glebe (page 34) south dowli rk r d cle vel and st 3kmwestoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~40mins redfern/waterloo (page 40) ng st chalmers st pitt st carillon av abe rcr omb ie st rd den sen mis en g gold st rove redfern st wil son st 3�4kmsouthoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~40mins south do gibb ons baptist st bourke st rege r aust alia st redfern park Redfern Waterloo phillip st st nt s t walSH bay/millerS point (page 46) wling st st son wil raglan st 1kmnorth-westoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~20mins pyrmont/ultimo (page 52) st ren bur legend enm rd ore t rt s albe danks st bota ll d er Monorail LightRail Parks Water g st kin young st TrainStation 2kmwestoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~20mins lachla n st ny r d mcevoy st mce v t oy s HaymarKet/CHinatown (page 58) 1.5kmsouthoftheCityCentre Walkingtime~20mins o'dea av tranSport Hotline Phone131500or131500.com.au