chow down
Chow-chow is a relish of pickled vegetables spiked with mustard. You can spot a jar of this bold, bright and slightly bitter condiment on tables throughout the South – usually with a spoon sticking out. Here in town, we’ve seen it accompanying spicy blackened fluke at Farmhaus and slathered on lavash at chef John Perkins’ vegetarian pop-up restaurant, The Agrarian. Taste Perkins’ spin on chow-chow while The Agrarian is still open (July 27 is the final day.), or use his recipe to make the piquant southern condiment at home.
Chow-chow Adapted by The Agrarian’s John Perkins from a recipe originally published in The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook Makes 2 quarts 6 Tbsp. salt 2 cups green bell pepper, medium dice 5 cups red bell pepper, medium dice 5 cups green cabbage (can mix in red cabbage for added color), sliced 2 cups green tomato, medium dice 2 cups fennel, medium dice 2 cups cauliflower, medium dice 4 cups cider vinegar (or rice vinegar for a more neutral flavor) 1 cup brown sugar 1 tsp. allspice 2 star anise pods 1 Tbsp. freshly minced garlic 1 cinnamon stick 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed 1 generous tsp. Korean chile flakes 1 small knob fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into rounds 1 tsp. toasted black peppercorns ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds • Pour 9 cups of water into a large container with a tight-fitting lid. Stir the salt into the water until it dissolves. Add the peppers, cabbage, tomato, fennel and cauliflower to the liquid and let brine in the refrigerator overnight. • The next day, strain the vegetables and set aside. • Add the vinegar to a large pot. Stir in the brown sugar until it dissolves. Add 1 cup of water along with the allspice, star anise, garlic, cinnamon stick, lemongrass, chile flakes, ginger, peppercorns and mustard seeds. Bring to a simmer. • Add the pickled vegetables and bring back to a simmer. After 15 minutes, remove from heat. • Let cool completely, then add to sanitized jars. The relish will keep in a tight-fitting lid, refrigerated, for 1 month.
July 2013
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45