v i n e
w i s d o m
The Bonarda Boom The surprising Argentinian wine comes of age
By Robyn James
I try not to write about obscure or dif-
ficult-to-find grapes because, well, they are probably obscure for a reason and difficult to find because few are looking for them.
If the wine industry sees a grape gaining in popularity (moscato, for example), they jump on the bandwagon and you will find it everywhere, made by everybody. But sometimes there is a quiet swell like a tap on the shoulder, and you see this new grape popping up on your radar screen a lot. Meet bonarda. An Argentinian grape grower would probably slap me for calling bonarda an obscure grape because it is currently planted in Argentina second only to malbec, the flashy favorite. However widely planted, bonarda was primarily used as a blending grape to add flavor and color to cheaper table wines sold in bulk. The name was rarely, if ever, mentioned on the label. Now it is being taken seriously on its own merits. It’s not the easiest grape to grow; it has a rather thin, delicate skin; and it needs a lot of hangtime on the vine to ripen fully. But yields are high and it performs beautifully during fermentation in the winery, performing well blending with other grapes. One winemaker describes it as “intense cola nut, vanilla bean, cassis and a vague suggestion of wild, brambly foxiness. The aroma is blueberries — it hits you in the face. It’s beautiful, pure ink.” When I first went to work as an on-premise rep for a large wine distributor in Greensboro, I was delighted to find several magnums of Inglenook Estate charbono from the ’60s and ’70s, packaged in beautiful, individual wooden cases. I bought all they had and laid them down to age further. I started reading about charbono and Inglenook’s charbono society, only to find out it is the same grape as Argentinian bonarda. The original Inglenook Winery produced charbono (bonarda) each vintage from 1882 until the winery was sold to Francis Ford Coppola in 1998. Why California gave it a different name isn’t really clear, but it probably comes from the corbeau grape in Savoie, France, also said to be the same as bonarda. Bonarda is a bargain, and rarely will you find one over $20. Here are a few of my favorites:
Durigutti Bonarda, Argentina, 2010, approx. $15
“The purple-colored 2010 bonarda offers up an enticing nose of plum and mulberry leading to a supple, friendly, easy-going wine with a good core of spicy, savory fruit. In the glass it reveals excellent volume, balance and length. Drink this very good value over the next 2–3 years.” Rated 86 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.
The Art & Soul of Wilmington
Tikal Patriota, Argentina, 2011, approx. $20
“The 2011 Tikal Patriota is a blend of 60 percent malbec and 40 percent bonarda from Vista Flores and La Vendimia from 14-year-old vines. It is raised in French and American oak for 12 months (30 percent new). It has a confident, out-going bouquet of raspberries and wild strawberry complemented by hints of marmalade and quince. The palate is medium-bodied with luscious black fruit infused with minerals and a touch of graphite. It is supremely harmonious and seductive with filigree tannins on the refined finish. Wonderful. Drink now–2017.” Rated 92 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.
Tilia Bonarda, Argentina, 2011, approx. $11
“The 2011 Tilia bonarda sees light oak aging for six to nine months. It has a pure, floral bouquet with dark cherries and cassis aromas that are welldefined and pure. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very good weight. There is an underlying minerality here, a sense of symmetry that is very satisfying. Light on its feet and pretty on the saline-tinged finish, this is a superb bonarda. Drink now–2016. Rated 91 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. I must say, of all the ranges that I tasted in Argentina, none could match the quality to price ratio of Tilia, which all retail for an astoundingly low price. As such, I cannot recommend them highly enough. b
Master sommelier Robyn James has been in the retail and wholesale wine business for over 25 years. September 2013 •
Salt
29