welcome aboard Have you ever wondered what life is like on a large, crewed sailing yacht with an experienced skipper and mate to take care of your safety and comfort? Join me Pauline, my husband Colin and seven guests on our 68ft yacht Moonshadow of Lorne during a 7-day cruise through the Inner Hebrides. Sailing with us are: Robin and Barbara, a Scottish couple who haven’t sailed before and want to try something new; Rick, a keen photographer and fitness enthusiast and Tom, Shirley, Drew and Diane, a group of friends from England, who sailed to St Kilda with us last year and have returned for some more “island bagging”.
already on the foredeck preparing to lift the anchor. Colin is delighted that, after only two days on the boat, they have learned the routine so quickly and in no time at all the anchor is It’s 7am, the alarm sounds and Colin rouses cleaned and stowed and we’re heading out to himself from a peaceful sleep after yesterday’s downwind passage from the Ross of Mull to our sea again. present anchorage in Canna Harbour. As the generator rumbles into life, that’s the signal that Calm days like today are ideal for whale watching, so as we skirt the shore the crew water is heating up for morning showers. keeps a lookout to seaward but, to everyone’s surprise, we hear the blow of a minke right at By 8 o’clock we are all up and tucking into our backs as it surfaces between us and the bowls of porridge topped with honey, yoghurt shore. and fresh raspberries. Over scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, Colin talks us through the By midday we’re rounding the final headland forecast which confirms that high pressure is into Loch Scresort. While the boys get the establishing itself and winds will be falling light anchor down, the girls prepare to lower the and variable – so short hops are the order of tender into the water. Under a cloudless blue the day. We settle on a plan of sailing over to sky and warm sun we opt for lunch on deck and Rum in time for the afternoon tour of Kinloch settle down to soup, wraps and a chilled rosé Castle. Then, taking advantage of the quiet conditions, we’ll spend the night in atmospheric from Moonshadow’s well-stocked wine locker. Loch Scavaig beneath the dramatic ridge of the Diane keeps her binoculars close at hand as she has spotted some of Rum’s resident population Black Cuillin on Skye. of Manx shearwaters swimming in the bay. Leaving the loading of the dishwasher in the Luck is on our side as a gentle westerly fills in capable hands of today’s “mother watch”, for the afternoon. At the press of a few buttons I head for the galley to make a pot of soup. the sails are unfurled and, as our well-primed Without any prompting, Rick and Robin are crew trim the main and jib, Julie takes the wheel and sets a course for Skye. Drew is keen to hone his navigational skills so he goes below to calculate the tidal heights for the anchorage; there’s not much water to play Eda Frandsen Sailing with in the inner basin, so his workings are checked carefully!
Join us for an unforgettable traditional sailing holiday, exploring the spectacular Outer Hebrides, Small Isles and St Kilda. Hands-on sailing adventures for singles, couples or groups of up to 8 with no experience required. Contact James and Becky. EDA FRANDSEN SAILING T: 01326 567265 M: 07867 500289 crew@eda-frandsen.co.uk www.eda-frandsen.co.uk Grid Reference: 2,3
www.sailscotland.co.uk
As we pass the Island of Soay, Colin talks about the factory which author Gavin Maxwell and his business partner Tex Geddes set up after the war to process basking shark oil. The remains of the buildings and machinery are still standing on the far side of the island. It’s just after 5 o’clock when we motor into Loch Scavaig. The jagged summit of Gairsbheinn towers overhead; seals scatter from their rocky perches and bob up again in our wake, watchful and wary. It’s one of those balmy summer evenings and won’t get dark until after eleven, so it’s agreed that a trip ashore with a walk up to the freshwater Loch Coruisk would build appetites before dinner. With the rib tied up alongside the landing jetty,
we climb the metal staircase and follow the path round the hillside until the loch appears and the dramatic amphitheatre opens up before us. We settle on a rocky outcrop to soak up the beauty of this wild and rugged landscape. When Colin suggests a toast, there are smiles all round as a bottle of Talisker is produced, and of course the only way to drink a Skye whisky is with a bit of fresh Skye water from the loch! Back onboard it’s time for “knock offs” (Australians Wendy & Jonathan sailed with us last May, and introduced us to their traditional word for sundowners!). Colin makes sure we’re getting our “5 a-day” when he serves up jugs of Pimms packed with oodles of fruit, cucumbers and mint – delicious! As evening falls, the candles are lit and we gather round the table for dinner. On the menu tonight are hand-dived scallops served with Stornoway’s famous black pudding, followed by venison from the Island of Seil and poached pears from our family orchard. We raise a glass to ourselves, the sunshine, the seals and the scenery. This is my favourite part of the day, when everyone is together, relaxed and replete and conversation wanders from iPads to politics to puffins. Later, over a wee dram, we show a few of Rick’s photos on the big screen. He has taken some great shots and promises to let us have copies. Another day in the great outdoors is beginning to take its toll and we are all nodding off, but the lure of a beautiful moon draws us on deck for one final look around before bed. A bit of stargazing and identification of a few heavenly bodies, then it’s time to snuggle under our duvets for another good night’s sleep (and Shirley still has a few chapters of her book to finish!). Pauline Taylor Moonshadow Yacht Charter Ltd www.symoonshadow.co.uk