ROSE & IVY JOURNAL AUTUMN 2015
04 no.
ROSE & IVY JOURNAL EDITOR, PHOTOGRAPHER & STYLIST ALISON ENGSTROM GRAPHIC DESIGNER MONICA PICCA
For advertising, press, product consideration or to contribute to the next issue please contact alison@roseandivyjournal.com
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a letter from the
editor
elcome to the autumn issue! It is hard to believe that just one year ago, I had the big idea to launch a quarterly lifestyle publication and to do so completely by myself, with the amazing design expertise of my dear friend Monica Picca. I have learned a lot along the way, but more than ever, the purpose is clear - to create unique and beautiful content. This issue is filled with over 150 pages of it spanning travel, fashion, beauty and food. Travel broadens our horizons and pushes the boundaries of what we deem beautiful. Sicily was one of those places that should be put on every travelers bucket list. I had the pleasure of discovering the island, see feature 'Bella Sicily', in May and was left a bit speechless. The combination of the unbelievable scenery, food and people satiated all of my travel desires. I also sailed to the Aeolian islands in 'Island Paradiso', where I experienced the serenity and energy of two very different destinations. When traveling I like to stick to an easy uniform (jeans and a blouse) that allows me to move around easily, especially when it evolves exploring on foot with my camera in tow. We rounded up the best denim in 'Indigo Stories', for year round wear from the perfect high-rise skinny jean to a new rift on the denim jacket from the brand to know, The Arrivals. As a photographer, I am constantly inspired by light. Shooting the editorial 'Country Serenade' in Upstate New York was a dream, especially when it involved beautiful knits from designer Kim Haller and other looks of the season. Putting this issue together was pure joy. I hope that you enjoy each and every page. And please write, I'd love to hear from you!
cheers,
ROSE & IVY JOURNAL AUTUMN 2015
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24
STYLE
BEAUTY
NOTES
NOTES
96
104
A STUDY
PIE SEASON
IN CONTRAST
136 COUNTRY SERENADE
58
84
BELLA
A SICILIAN
S I C I LY
CUCINA
114 130 150
INDIGO
JUST ADD A
STORIES
LITTLE SPICE
162
ISLAND
BOOK
PA R A D I S O
REVIEW
STYL E
7 M A R K E T S T U DY
written, styled & photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
right CH RI STI N E L EOPA RD P RI N T H EEL
CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA 8
artistically inspired
C
harlotte Olympia's fall collection just sings to our undying love for accessories with intricate details and a throwback to the days of sophistication and pure glamour.
M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
below HOT AN D C O L D PAN D O R A B RI CK CL UTCH
left P RI N TED PA N DORA Y EL L OW F EL I N E P RI N T CL UTCH
right THEA B LA C K & W H IT E C R O S S H AT C H PR IN T H E E L
ADAMONOCHROME SNAKESKIN HEEl
ADA-MONOCHROME SNAKESKIN HEEL
available at CH EL SEA PA RI S.COM
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M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
13 C HE LS E A PA R I S
The latest shoe brand that we have fallen for is London-based brand Chelsea Paris. Feminine mixed with a modern design approach, the fall collection is something to talk about.
N E W Y O R K P L E AT E D F L AT
available at CHEL S E A PA R I S. C O M
NEW YORK PL
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M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
LEATED FLAT
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ADILE NET BLACK SUEDE BOOT
available at CH EL SEA PA RI S.COM
ADILE NET BLACK SUEDE BOOT
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AVA RED SUEDE HEEL
M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
AVA R E D S U E D E H E E L
available at CH EL SEA PA RI S.COM
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M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
FALL ES S E NTI ALS The season that is all about layering begins with a great piece and ends with another. Here are some of our top picks from the best leather jacket to the perfect black dress.
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D B S B
DOUBLE BREASTED STRAIGHT BLAZER JAMES JEANS DOUBLE BREASTED STRAIGHT BLAZER
similiar styles available at 19
J AM E S J E AN S .C O M
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M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
JAMES JEANS COCO JACKET
similar styles available at
J AM E S J E AN S.C O M
COCO
M A R K E T S T U DY ST Y L E N OT ES
T H E A R R I VA L S THE CROPPED BIKER
available at TH EA RRI VA L S.COM
THE CROPPED 22
BLACK PONTE DRESS JAMES JEANS BLACK PONTE DRESS
similar styles available at J A MESJ EA N S.COM
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24 M A R K E T S T U DY
written, styled & photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
BERRY STAINED
The perfect lipstick shades for fall bridges the gap between sweet crushed raspberry to deep muscat and moody merlot. Here are the best shades to take you through the season.
R AS PBE R RY
Zinfandel Merlot Barberry top to bottom E S T É E L AU D E R P U R E C O LO R E N V Y S H I N E , L AU R A M E R C I E R L I P PA R FA I T,
PASSIONATE
CHER R IES JUBILEE
L AU R A M E R C I E R C R È M E S M O O T H L I P C O LO R ,
FR ESH R ASPBER RY
L AU R A M E R C I E R C R È M E S M O O T H L I P C O LO R ,
PLUM ORCHID
H O U R G L A S S F E M M E R O U G E V E LV E T C R È M E L I P S T I C K ,
FEVER
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
M E R LOT
HUCKLEBERRY MULBERRY ELDERBERRY top to bottom B I T E B E AU T Y F R OZ E N B E R R I E S M AT T E C R È M E L I P S T I C K , D O LC E & G A B BA N A C L A S S I C C R E A M L I P S T I C K ,
DAHLIA
D O LC E & G A B BA N A C L A S S I C C R E A M L I P S T I C K , B I T E B E AU T Y F R OZ E N B E R R I E S M AT T E C R È M E L I P S T I C K , D O LC E & G A B BA N A D O LC E R E D L I P S T I C K ,
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PLUM
R ISKY BL ACK CHER RY
DOLCE INFER NO
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
M I X E D BE R R I E S
MALBAC MUSCAT MARSALA right to left L AU R A M E R C I E R C R È M E S M O O T H L I P C O LO U R , L AU R A M E R C I E R L I P PA R FA I T,
PLUMBER RY
TUTTI FRUTTI
H O U R G L A S S F E M M E R O U G E V E LV E T C R È M E L I P S T I C K ,
NOCTUENAL
B I T E B E AU T Y F R OZ E N B E R R I E S M AT T E C R È M E L I P S T I C K ,
BAR EBER RY
B I T E B E AU T Y F R OZ E N B E R R I E S M AT T E C R È M E L I P S T I C K , C L É D E PE AU B E AU T É E X T R A R I C H L I P S T I C K ,
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JUNIPER
NO. 208
eye
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
OPENER Expecting your mascara
GUERLAIN
to lengthen, thicken and
M A X I L A S H S O VO LU M E
stay-put on your lashes is a given. The season’s latest launches take it one step further by treating the actual lashes with extra care - think serums for the lids, while still providing major impact.
Packaged inside of a sleek black and gold tube, this mascara provides the dramatic impact that we want, when we want to command attention with our eyes – after all who doesn’t? BY T E R RY T E R RY B LY WAT E R PR O O F S E R U M M A S CA R A
Both a treatment serum and mascara, this formula imparts a glossy coat that makes the eyes pop. It has a triple water-resistant technology that stays put without becoming dry and flaking, both essential when it comes to a long-wearing mascara.
L AU R A M E R C I E R E X T R A L A S H S C U LP T I N G M A S CA R A
With just one application, your lashes become lifted, separated and defined, thanks to the unique brush that clings to each and every last lash delivering even color that is clump-free.
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
C LÉ D E PE AU B E AU T É PE R F E C T L A S H M A S CA R A
Formulated with a Lash Care Complex, which coats the cuticle and nourishes unveiling thicker and longer lashes. This waterproof, and smudge-proof formula adheres all day, so put it on and you are done. D O LC E & G A B BA N A PA S S I O N E Y E S M A S CA R A
A two-in-one, buildable mascara lengthens and curls,in fact, you don’t even need an eye lash curler. Formulated with ingredients like moisturizing glycerin that induce curl and Tapioca polymers that assist in keeping each lash in place. E S T É E L AU D E R LI T T LE B L AC K PR I M E R
This is one versatile mascara that works not only for you, but also with you. Looking for just a little bit of color for a low-key weekend? Or, seeking to amp up those eyes with lashes that look so good they could be fake? Well, this product has you covered. It can be used as a lash tint for those easy makeup days, can act as a sealant when applied over your normal mascara, or can be applied before your mascara to give your eyes that extra impact. R O U G E BU N N Y R O U G E W I TC H E RY M O D E LI N G M A S CA R A
Inspired by the black curve of a raven’s feather, this lightweight formula defines, curls and lengthens while being free of fragrance and silicones that can cause irritation. 35
o
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
a bright
outlook Continue that summer glow into the cooler month s with products that brighten, lighten and leave your skin looking good as new.
S K- I I P OW E R B R I G H T E N I N G S PE C I A LI S T
Two drops of SK-II Power Brightening Specialist are all that you need to reveal brighter skin. This concentrated elixir promotes a complexion that is more translucent and radiant. C L A R I N S M I S S I O N PE R F E C T S E R U M
After a summer filled with fun days spent in the sunshine, the aftermath on your skin can be not quite as fun like the appearance of dark spots, uneven pigmentation and a lackluster complexion. Clarin's Mission Perfect Serum targets those unwanted dark spots with Acerola extract, a wild cherry that grows in South America that is high in Vitamin C, while Ginkgo Biloba increases circulation and promotes radiance. 37
previous page REVIVE INTENSITÉ LINE ERASING EYE SERUM
When you are tired, visible fatigue usually likes to settle around your eye area in the form of fine lines, dark circles and puffiness. The ReVive IntensitĂŠ Line Erasing Eye Serum works to softened fine lines, while leaving behind an illuminating glow. G L A M G LOW F L A S H M U D B R I G H T E N I N G T R E AT M E N T
They say all good things take time; however, Glamglow's Flashmud Brightening Treatment is in a different class. This unique treatment is equal parts mask and exfoliator that delivers results after its first use revealing noticeably brighter skin. Formulated with a natural botanicals like White Wild Rose Flower, White Birch Leaf and powered with ingredients like Sun Dried White Blanche Clay and Willow
this page BO BB I B R OW N I N T E N S I V E S K I N S E R U M C O R R E C TO R a n d I N T E N S I V E S K I N S E R U M C O N C E A LE R
Under eye circles have met their match with this correcting and concealing duo. First, the Intensive Skin Serum Corrector works to plump the skin under the eyes and stimulate collagen production with potent ingredients from Eastern medicine like Indian Mukui Myrrh Tree and Cordyceps Mushroom Extract. Next, the Intensive Skin Serum Concealer is applied on top to brighten and lighten.
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
40
LIQUID GOLD I
ncorporating oils into a skincare regimen is a no fail way of creating a healthy complexion. With a formula out there for pretty much every skin type, here are the latest crop of oils that will moisturize, even skin tone and promote supple skin.
written, styled, photographed by 41
ALISON ENGSTROM
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
W
Marula FACIAL OIL
e all know that Argan oil was the latest ‘it’ ingredient when it comes to skin oils and other beauty products. Now, there is and up and coming oil that must be put on your beauty radar, Marula oil. Derived from the Marula nut, this oil, laced with a bevy of omegathrees has incredible moisturizing abilities and eliminates redness in the skin tone; however, not all are treated equally. The Marula Facial Oil is cold-pressed on location in Southern Africa and Madagascar resulting in the purest grade of oil .
Guerlain ABEILLE ROYALE FACE TREATMENT OIL
I
nfused with an exclusive Ousseant honey that comes from black bees, Guerlain’s Abeille Royale Face Treatment oil is the epitome of pressing liquid gold into your skin. Rich in amino acids and traces of magnesium, this oil increases the skin's firmness, while also helping to repair the skin.
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previous page
Caudalie PREMIER CRU THE ELIXIR
T
his luxurious hybrid formula is equal parts oil and serum. It is chocked full of ingredients that deliver an immediate softness to the skin. Formulated with five anti-aging oils like Organic Prickly Pear Oil, known for its brightening properties and Coriander Oil, which allows for the product to penetrate into the skin, making it ideal for those with dry or damaged skin.
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
Laura Mercier INFUSION DE ROSE NOURISHING OIL
W
e might be biased when it comes to anything infused with rose – with their intoxicating aroma, ethereal texture and color, what is not to love? Laura Mercier shares the same sentiment, which prompted the makeup artist to create this beautiful skin oil. A few drops is all that you need to deliver all day moisture, protect against environmental damage and induce soft skin, think, like the softest rose petal. Plus, it can be applied to your hair, cuticles and lips, which satiates our love for a multi-tasking product.
AERIN ROSE OIL A
erin Rose Oil is nourishing and delicately scented with the aroma of rose. Infused with Evening Primrose, Rose Hip and Argan oils, just a few drops is all that you need for a glowing complexion. 45
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
M
Korres BLACK PINE ACTIVE FIRMING SLEEPING OIL
assaging oil into the skin everyday is almost like bringing the spa into your home. Now this ritual can extend while you sleep, thanks to Korres Black Pine Active Firming Sleeping Oil. It blends six different varieties in one bottle like black pine, grape seed and cold-pressed argan oil. This nongreasy oil quickly absorbs into the skin leaving it noticeably softer. Overtime, it works to firm the skin and improve elasticity.
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Kahina GIVING BEAUTY PRICKLY PEAR SEED OIL
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ich in Vitamin K, amino acids and skin protecting antioxidants, prickly pear oil moisturizes, brightens and restores elasticity. Plus, this oil is 100% organic and is produced in small quantities assuring for the best quality.
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
Brush with
ARTIS BRUSHES
T
hink: what is the one item in your beauty tool arsenal thats application really hasn't changed since you discovered it? If you guessed makeup brushes, you are correct. The founders of Artis makeup brushes asked themselves the same question, but also 'how can we make them even better?'. The Artis brushes are comprised of special manmade brush fibers that have a tapered end, which delivers a consistent finish that can be used with liquid or powder formulas. Plus, unlike traditional makeup brushes, its oval shape was designed as if you are drawing the face allowing you to glide effortlessly and distribute the product evenly and prevent product waste. We all know that feeling of brushing bronzer or blush on our face to only see the product land elsewhere. The lineup consists of ten brushes ranging from the face and body to a liner brush.
Shown Artis Oval 10 Brush
greatness
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
50 PA LE TTE P ER F ECT I O N This fall a beautiful array of eye shadow palettes paint the eyes in steely grays, cobalt blues and the occasional pop of color. Get ready for a pretty fall.
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B Y TER R Y
Eye Designer Palette Color Design BOBBI BROW N
Greige Eye Palette
E S TÉ E LA U D E R Pure Color Envy Sculpting Eyeshadow 5-Color Palette below Provocative Petal right Infamous Sky
M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
L A URA MERCI ER
Chromes Palette CLÉ D E P E AU B E AU T É
Eye Color Quad No. 313
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M A R K E T S T U DY B E AU T Y
on the vanity T
om Ford’s beauty line is brimming with luxurious details, from the sleek lipstick tubes etched in gold to the fragrances housed in covetable flacons. This season, the collection includes glow-inducing powders, ombre blushes and dreamy lip shades.
Add a dramatic backdrop to your powder room, by incorporating Ellie Cashman's moody flower wallpaper.
tom ford E Y E A N D C H E E K S H A D OW I N P I N K OMBRE
This ombre duo begins with a dusty rose hue that is so pretty when dusted on the cheekbones and bleeds into the faintest pink shade, perfect for the eyes.
L I P C O LO R I N WA R M S A B L E
The perfect neutral shade with caramel undertones.
Dark Floral, as shown here. S K I N I L LU M I N AT I N G P OW D E R D U O I N MOODLIGHT
Imparting a candle-lit glow, this illuminating palette creates that 'come hither' look, while also allowing for contouring.
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ROSE & IVY
57 AUTUMN 2015 JOURNAL
BELL A
A CA S TLE P ER CHED A BOV E WHEAT FI E LD S ON TH E D R I V E FR OM O R TI GI A TO MA ND R A N OVA
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SICILY A N E T E R N A L W A N D E R E R ’ S J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H S I C I LY
written and photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
"i am lured in by places latent with history, stunning scenery and excellent food. 60
the size of sicily is quite deceiving to the eye...it is much larger than you can imagine..."
(beaches, mountains, countryside) and excellent food. It can be overwhelming to decide exactly where to go, what to do, not to mention when to go. The idea of Sicily came about because I had heard that all of the mentioned could be found on the island south of the boot of Italy.
W
hen I travel, I like to have a goal in mind and it is oftentimes too lofty and tiring to achieve. What entices and inevitably satiates my travel lust is a trifecta of elements. First, I am lured in by places latent with history (ruins, monuments, museums), stunning scenery 61
This time, my husband John and I, would sojourn to Sicily and would focus on the southeastern part of the island, by way of Palermo, known for its agriculture and diverse landscape. The size of Sicily is quite deceiving to the eye. It is much larger than you can imagine and it takes an adequate amount of time to get from point a to point b. Some of the roads were broken from the earth shifting (Sicily is on an active fault line) resulting in a ‘Sicilian scandal’, as quoted earnestly by a gentleman in Palermo. We decided to take a two-week trip, to allow for full immersion into the Sicilian way of life. We started in Palermo, a city rich in history and architecture and would end in Mandranova, an olive farm
in Southeastern Sicily that overlooks the Mediterranean sea. While traveling through the island, you observe how each town has its own set of characters. As the night sets in, the palazzos transform into a movie-like setting with different scenes unfolding. There are the children slurping down gelato on the cathedral steps, the older towns men murmuring under the dim light and women walking arm in arm down the street. Sicily is a food lover’s paradise. Classic dishes that have become American favorites are shown in their original form and made with the best ingredients and time-tested techniques - pizza, cannolis, lasagna, ricotta, antipasti, personally, it doesn't get better than this. I like to imagine one of the many nonnas that you rarely see during the day are in the kitchen putting in a hard days work. That is my theory on why you see the men sitting in clusters in the town’s square chatting and puffing on cigars on park benches. Their wives want them out of the kitchen. I was only secretly hoping that we would get invited to dinner. Food is celebrated from the artichoke festival in April to the caper festival in June. Sicilians honor the land and eat seasonally. The open-air market is a feast for the eyes and the senses.
Driving though the countryside you are able to observe how life once was and still is, simple and of the land. On our drive from Syracuse to Mandranova, we were entranced by the stunning landscape. Golden wheat fields gently rolled over the hills below crumbled stone castles and acre upon acre of vineyard vines. Winding down one country road, we were stopped by about one hundred freshly shorn sheep being herded by shepherds and eager, yet raggedy sheep dogs. They crowded the entire road stopping in front of semi-trucks unphased. With each undulating hillside, a common site is an abandoned structure, which could have been a house or a wine storage and is situated next to an old olive tree or a towering palm. Field upon field of tomato vines, rows of leafy orange and lemon trees and even cactus farms dotted with yellow flowers were abundant. This is Sicily and it is wonderful.
below A
SCEN I C OUTL OOK I N CEFA L Ă™
left
TH E P ERF ECT
SY MMETRY I N TH E P I A ZZA P RETORI A I N PA L ERMO
"driving though the countryside you are able to observe how life once was and still is, simple and of the land.
PALERM0 &
CEFALÙ
&
Ù
I
have always found that European cities possess a sense of magic and Palermo is no different. As the largest city in Sicily, you are quickly enveloped by the city’s energy and way of life. Mopeds zoom down the narrowest streets, oftentimes with an oversized dog onboard, conversations overflow from the cafés, freshly laundered linens billow overhead and there are of course, the well-dressed Sicilian men in perfectly tailored three-piece suits, despite the hot temperatures, walking though piazzas slurping down gelato. The architecture in Palermo is one of the most striking elements of the city. The Teatro Massimo Opera House embodies a grand scale in a busy piazza surrounded by towering palm trees. Luminous marbled streets and yellow-tinged architecture in the Piazza Vigliena nearly take your breath away, as does the vacant building that looks like it hasn’t been touched in far too long. While many of the buildings are covered in soot, you feel you are looking at history, how things might have been. After our one day stay in Palermo, at the Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes, we pack our little black Fiat and set out to discover the rest of Sicily. Our first stop is the day spent in Cefalù, a picturesque seaside village with crystal clear water and sun-bleached homes, located just 30 miles outside of Palermo. We parked the car on the main village road of Corso Ruggero and were eager to explore the town by foot. Getting lost in the narrow streets that meander up the village is a
left
A SI C I LI A N FI S H E R M AN
AWA I TS HI S C ATCH W H IL E A HUNG R Y CAT LOO K S O N
65
the architecture in palermo is one of the most striking elements of the city.”
below TH E
SUN BL EA CH ED H OMES ON
CEFA L ÚS MA I N BEA CH
"serenity, sea breezes and beauty abound leaving you feeling overwhelmed in the best way possible. pleasure, especially where we arrived at a vista that stretched from the mountains and peered over the village and out onto the sea. One of the best parts about Cefalù is that you can find solitude on many of the streets. Serenity, sea breezes and beauty abound leaving you feeling overwhelmed in the best way possible. Having lunch in the piazza at Ostaria del Duomo in front of the Chiesa Cefalù, a cathedral that dates back to the 1100’s was a great way to refuel after a long day of walking. 66
above
TH E MA RBEL ED STATUES OF TH E
P I A ZZA P RETORI A
left
TH E FAÇA DE OF P I A ZZA VI G I L I EN A I N
TH E CEN TER OF PA L ERMO
below A N
OU TLOOK IN M O DIC A C H U R C H
W I TH THE C H U R CH O F S AN G IO R G IO IN F ULL V I E W
M
odica was where I truly fell head over heals in love with Sicily. Perhaps it was the people, the Baroque buildings stacked one upon the other on two opposing hills and the way the light reflected down (it was a photographer’s dream), or the way the town’s two church bells of San Giorgio and Santa Modica del Soccorso rivaled to sing that it was noon. Whatever it was, this is
MOD
the town that I would love to revisit. After a four-hour drive from Cefalù, Modica would be our base for four days and would allow us to explore southeastern Sicily. The people in Modica are warm, welcoming and are incredibly passionate about their town and Sicily. Our first two nights we stayed at the family owned and run Palazzo Failla, a mansion that has been in the Failla family for many years. It was 68
DICA
restored and converted into a hotel ten years ago by Paolo and Concetta Failla. We are given a private tour by their daughter, Giulia Failla. She shows us her late grandmother’s former bedroom, which features the same French-style furniture from years ago that has now been restored. Each piece
69
the people in modica are warm, welcoming and are incredibly passionate about their town and sicily.� stay Casa Talia Palazzo Failla
left
BREA KFA ST A L F RESCO
AT CA SA TA L I A
above A left
ROOM AT PA L A ZZO FA I L L A
TH E BA ROQUE FA CA DE OF
SA N TA MODI CA DEL SOCCORSO
70
"modica, which was said to be founded in 1360 bc, is known for its architecture and chocolate. Each piece could hold footing in a museum. Palazzo Failla is located in Modica Alta, or Upper Modica, which offers the breathtaking views but also means that you will be getting a great workout climbing to and from Modica Bassa, or Lower Modica, where a majority of the shops and restaurants are located. Modica, which was said to be founded in 1360 BC is known for its architecture and chocolate. We were advised by the car rental man in Palermo that we had to try it, but not to be alarmed if we in fact did not like it. I, for one, like all chocolate, so I knew that it would be a hit. Unlike traditional chocolate, Modica chocolate is not heated and is prepared in the way that the Aztecs created chocolate. It is airy, aromatic and grainy (which gives it a slight crunch) and is accented by local produce like lemons, carob and pistachios. Our remaining two nights in Modica we stay at Casa Talia, located on the other side of the hill, across from Palazzo Failla. Started fourteen years ago by architects Viviana Haddad and Marco Giunta, who fled the hectic pace of life in Milan for a more centered one in Modica. The premise of Casa Talia is ‘slow living’ and you realize this as you step onto the grounds and relaxation overcomes you, from the garden filled with roses, lemon and olive trees to the peaceful lookout over Modica. Each of the rooms is inspired by the Mediterranean and includes design elements from various cultures that have influenced Sicily over time. Beginning each morning in the garden with their healthy breakfast beneath the pomegranate and olive trees with a view of the town is utter bliss. 71
eat
LA
LOCANDO
DEL
COLONNELLO
Heralded as one of the best restaurants in Sicily, La Locando del Colonnello is the restaurant connected to Palazzo Failla. Overseen by Chef Davide Minerva, the menu revolves around the seasons and serves delicious Sicilian fare. Minerva, who hails from Southern Italy is inspired by the local produce. He dreams up inventive recipes, like transforming the green leaves of the Zuchetta Serpente, a yardstick sized zucchini native to Sicily, into a creamy pesto that sits atop pillows of ricotta gnocci. Any of the items ordered on the menu will have you thinking of them long after you leave. Vico Biscari, 6 – Modica Alta • TRATTORIA LA RUSTICANA Run by an older husband and wife duo, this is the closest that you might get to eating at a local’s home. It is simple - she cooks, while he hosts, in this relaxed diner-like atmosphere. The antipasti and pasta are good picks, as well as the homemade desserts. Viale Medaglie d'Oro, 34 •GELATERIA DEGLI ANGELI If you are looking for the creamiest gelato that incorporates quality ingredients, look not further than Gelateria Degli Angeli located on the bustling Corso Umberto. Try flavors like Cioccolato di Modica that turns the chocolate from Modica into a creamy cold treat or Pistachio, which incorporates nuts from nearby Mount Etna. Corso Umberto I, 119 • ANTICA DOLCERIA BONAJUTO
Chocolate and Modica are synonymous, so it is essential to visit this chocolate shop and factory, the oldest in Sicily. Here you
can taste an array of flavors like carob, hazelnut and citrus. Corso Umberto I° n.159 • PUTIA DEL COPPO When the locals flock to a certain restaurant, you know that it has to be good. Putia del Coppo serves traditional fried Sicilian food in unique cones. Try the fried potatoes on a stick that are impossibly good, or if fried isn’t your preferred food, opt for the mozzarella di bufala sandwich that melts in your mouth. Corso Umberto I I 197 • PASTICCERIA DI LORENZO Pasticceria Di Lorenzo is a must for Sicilian confections, especially the cannolis that incorporate lighter than air ricotta swirled with chocolate or vanilla and rolled in pistachios. Corso Umberto N. 225
day trips
A short drive from the town center, Sampieri is a sleepy beach town with a large sandy beach and turquoise water. It is the perfect location for a picnic or to watch the sunset. Sampieri SAMPIERI BEACH
Beach • VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE
Home to the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world, this former Roman Villa dating back to the 1st Century AD is nothing short of remarkable. Walking through the villa, you are taken back in time to the splendor of how the Romans lived, not to mention their intricate art work. Strada Provinciale 90, Piazza Armerina • RISERVA NATURALE ORIENTATA OASI FAUNISTICA DI VENDICARI
A nature 72
reserve that stretches for miles and is home to a many birds and plants. The beaches are crystal clear and are great for swimming and sunbathing. Contrada Vendicari, Noto • CAVA D’ISPICA An eery, yet fascinating cluster of caves just eight miles outside of Modica. Cava d’Ispica paints a picture of how life was around 2000BC. Today, all that remains are the ceremonial rooms and burials that can be explored on foot. It was said the town of Modica resembled this gorge before it was settled. Cava D'Ispica above R E D TOI LE C R E AT E S A S TAT E M E N T IN A ROOM below SA M P I ER I B E AC H IN T H E E AR LY M O RN I N G
AT PA L A ZZO FA I L L A
"chocolate and modica are synonymous, so it is essential to visit this chocolate shop and factory... 73
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I left
T HE FONTA NA DI AR T E M IDE
I N T HE TOWN ' S C E N T E R
below
A FR U I T V EN DO R AT T H E
O R TI GI A M A R K ET
f there ever were a place to rival ancient Athens or Rome with its beauty, ancient history and monuments, without the dizzying scale, it would be Ortigia, an island steps away from Syracuse, one of the first Greek settlements in Sicily. Situated in the eastern coast of the island, we arrived at Hotel Gutkowski, located in front of the sparkling green Tyrrhenian Sea, on a hot May afternoon. The town is bustling on that particular Wednesday. Narrow streets slope down to the pedestrian piazzas, tourists with cameras slung around their neck flock to the Temple of Apollo, while street
ORTIGIA "if there ever were a place to rival ancient athens or rome with its beauty...it would be ortigia
peddlers sell hats to shield the hot Sicilian sun. Young school children on a class trip slurp down brioche con gelato, a Sicilian staple of creamy gelato tucked inside of a buttery brioche. Life in Ortigia is quite wonderful. In addition to reveling in the monuments and ruins, the open-air market is another main attraction. Open six days a week, it is filled with fish, fruit, vegetables, cured meats, cheeses and attracts both locals and tourists alike. Boisterous vendors shout out with deep belly grunts their deal of the day, "fragole due euros!” only to be rivaled by the producer next to him with an even better buy or crop. Walking though the market a few times you quickly understand not only by seeing, but also by tasting the produce (that is also very inexpensive), why this area of the island is known for its agriculture. Impossibly sweet ruby red tomatoes still clinging to the vine are piled atop of each other, 12 inch long fava beans, elongated skinny green zucchinis, as big as a yard stick are only rivaled by freshly caught giant sword fish being cut into steaks. Spiny sea urchins, in shades of orange and black are on full display. They were plucked from the sea that morning by two brothers with a passion for diving. Getting lost in the town’s narrow streets and walking by the sea is gratifying for any traveler, but nothing quite like the city at night, when it glows from the incandescence of the street lamps that shimmers off the century old marble streets. After our dinner at La Volpe e L’Uva, where after a long day of walking we dined on 'nonna's' recipe for lasagna that incorporated smoked scarmoza and eggplant and was elevated with a generous layer of creamy béchamel sauce followed by a pizza marguerite,
walking though the market a few times you quickly understand not only by seeing, but also by tasting the produce..." 76
we began to watch the night unfold. From dusk until night fall, the piazza turns into a Van Gogh like painting; the building facades and marble streets glow and the Fontana di Artemide makes you want to take on a character in a Fellini film. While the majority of sites are on the island of Ortigia, we were sure to visit the geological park on our way out of the city in Syracuse that is home to Greek and Roman amphitheaters, Roman baths and the Ear of Dionysus, an enormous and eerie cave that you can walk inside named by the famed 16th century Italian artist Caravaggio.
above
TH E SA N DW I CH
MA ESTRO AT CA SEI F I CI O BORDERI EL EF TERI A
left
TH E P I A ZZA DUOMO
AT N I G H T I S A SI G H T TO BEH OL D
eat
For those nights that you want to put the breaks on eating pasta and instead savor pizza, another Sicilian specialty. Sicily Pizza located steps from the Fontana di Artemide, serves an array of pizzas with mouth-watering toppings. Via Cavour • L A V O L P E E L’ U V A A restaurant and pizzeria in the middle of Piazza Duomo that boasts an array of delicious homemade recipes, like Nonna’s Lasagna. Sit outside to guarantee for the best people watching. Piazza Duomo 20 • C A S E I F I C I O B O R D E R I E L E F T E R I A When a long line for food exists in a city with so much good food, you have to ask, what is all of the fuss about? Caseificio Borderi garners a lot of attention in the beginning of the Ortigia open air market and quite rightfully so, this family owned market and sandwich shop with the father at the helm is a magician when it comes to sandwich making. Each order is custom made and includes anywhere from eight to ten toppings ranging from fresh ricotta, cantaloupe, shaved pecorino to homemade sopressata. Be prepared to wait in line for a sandwich or get there early. We waited almost 45 minutes with only eight people in front of us. Via S I C I LY
PIZZA
Emmanuele de Benedictis, 6
stay
Situated in front of the green Tyrrhenian Sea, Hotel Gutowski is just on the outskirts of the main town center, which can be walked to in less than five minutes. Close to the market, the sea view rooms are worth requesting since the sunrise is quite spectacular. Lungomare di H O T E L G U T KOW S K I
Levante Elio Vittorini, 26
above
A F IS H M O N G E R C U T S S W ORDF I SH STEA KS AT TH E ORTI G I A MA RKET
"sicily is known for many things; one of the best is the olive oil that comes from the region.
MANDR
years. From the magic of Ortigia, to the rolling hills of Mandranova, we arrived just before dinner to the Azienda Agricola Mandranova, a working olive farm not too far from the sea in Southern Sicily. Situated on rolling hills dotted with olive trees, cypress and cactuses, you are immediately pulled into the bucolic beauty of the farm, whether sitting in one of the gardens, by the pool that overlooks the property or the serene communal area in the main house, perfect for sipping chilled Sicilian wine. Opened in 1995 by Giuseppe and Silvia di Vincenzo after generations before them produced olive oil that was subpar. It took above
TH E P OOL O V E R L O O K IN G O L IV E
A ND C Y P R E S S TR E E S
RANOVA S icily is known for many things; one of the best is the olive oil that comes from the region. With over 300 days of sunshine, the climate is perfect for cultivating olive trees that yield delicious olive oil. The Sicilians take pride in their version of liquid gold. While I had some prior knowledge about the process of olive oil production from time spent in Northern California, I was eager to discover the century-old process from trees that have existed for many
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the couple time, about fifteen years to plant new trees and produce a quality fruit that yielded olive oil with characteristics to boast about. Giuseppe, an energetic and sharply dressed Italian man, runs the business side of Mandranova olive oil, while his wife Silvia, runs the kitchen and nightly cooking school. She resembled a Sicilian version of Julia Child with her tight short curls, all with a side of spunk. The farm produces four different types of olives and unlike most they do not blend, which
below TH E EN TRA N CE TO MA N DRA N OVA right TH E BOUTI QUE H OTEL RA MO D'A RI A bottom right L UN CH SERVED I N TH E DI N I N G ROOM
results in olive oil that is pure and incredibly distinct taste. Cooking classes are led each night by Silvia. The hotel guests eagerly gather in the kitchen to create a Sicilian menu under her direction. On our second night, I was excited to get in the kitchen with her to learn her secrets. The Sicilians know how to eat and Mandranova was no different. Each night the dinners consist of many courses leaving you wanting to roll from the dinner table to your bed. On the menu that particular night, we cooked Impanate, which is rolled pizza dough that is filled with toppings like sautĂŠed spinach, potatoes and onions. Next, we prepared a tomato sauce perfumed with anchovies, which would top pasta, followed by Beef Involtini, a tissue thin piece of beef filled with breadcrumbs. We would finish the night with a chocolate cake infused with oranges. Accompanying each meal were their four different types of oils - Nocellara, Cerasuola, Giarraffa and Biancolilla that we savored by eating with that the idea of home can travel with you. spongy bread. You re-discover that conversations lingerThere was a certain sense of communi- ing over flickering candles and delicious ty at Mandranova. You feel the passion food have the power to make you incredibly from both Giueseppe and Silvia and their happy. Leaving Sicily was a very hard thing appreciation for the land and for Sicily. to do. The magic of the island instantly Gathering around their communal farm captures you. When I want to rememtable for lunch or dinner each day, you feel ber, I just close my eyes and dream of the like you are being embraced into a fami- golden hills, the color of the sea and the ly, while being surrounded by people that people. This is Sicily and it is wonderful. you just met from all over the world. Even Mandranova, SS115 Km 217, 92020 Palma di though you might be far from home, you Montechiaro are warmed from the inside out realizing 82
elsewhere around sicliy
Beauty has the ability to make you dizzy, especially when it comes to landscapes. We clocked a lot of miles driving around the island, but in between our hotel stays we checked into Hotel Ramo d'Aria , a country hotel with a modern flair, situated in front of a lemon grove with snow-capped Mount Etna in the background. Located between Taormina and Catania, it was the perfect stopping point to just relax. The nearby coastal town of Riposto, is quaint and colorful with restaurants where you can enjoy a meal seaside.
84 A SICILIAN
CUCINA S
icily boasts breathtaking scenery, historical monuments and a wealth of history; however, one of the best parts of immersing oneself into the culture is through the local cuisine. From the sun-ripened tomatoes, layers of lasagna to the beloved canoli, Sicily will leave your taste buds and stomach 'molto contento'!
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ALISON ENGSTROM
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previous page
baked fennel & scarmoza The anise flavor of fennel becomes subdued and takes on an almost buttery flavor when boiled. This dish combines the subtle flavor of fennel mixed with smoked mozzarella.
2 medium fennel bulbs, quartered ½ pound scarmoza, or smoked mozzarella, diced ž cup bread crumbs, preferably from day old sesame bread extra virgin olive oil salt & pepper fresh thyme, for garnish Makes 4 (depending on size of ramekins)
Inspired by a chocolate olive cake served warm at breakfast
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Remove fennel bulb from stalks. Roughly chop fennel into quarters. Place bulb into boiling water. Reduce heat to medium and cook fennel until it is tender about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside until it is cool enought to handle. Lightly oil ramekins with olive oil and place on a baking sheet. Dice fennel into smaller pieces. To assemble, divide fennel and diced scarmoza and layer into ramekins. Top with bread crumbs. Bake for 20 minutes or until bread crumbs turn golden brown. Garnish with sprigs of thyme, just before serving.
at Mandranova. Served morning, noon or night, it is sure to be a hit.
chocolate olive oil cake 1 cup cake flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 3/4 cup warm water 1/2 cup good quality unsweetened cocoa powder, plus more for dusting 4 eggs
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Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat a spring foam pan with olive oil, set aside. Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside. Using a mixer, beat sugar and olive oil until combined. Add one egg at a time until combined. In a medium bowl, combine cocoa powder and warm water, stir to combine. Add to wet mixture. In three additions, add flour mixture. Beat until blended. Bake for 40 minutes or until a knife can be inserted into the middle and comes out with a little crumb. Let cool slightly or completely. Dust with cocoa powder before serving.
1/2 stick of unsalted butter 1/3 cup flour 1 1/2 cups milk, preferably whole Dash of freshly grated nutmeg Salt & pepper to taste 1/2 pound smoked mozzarella 1 medium eggplant thinly sliced 1 1/2 cups good quality tomato sauce Lasagna sheets, about 8* Sage leaves, for garnish
lasagna alla norma Lasagna, the ultimate Sicilian comfort food is served 'Alla Norma' incoproating thinly sliced eggplant, smoked mozzarella and a decadent bĂŠchamel sauce.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To prepare bĂŠchamel, place butter in a saute pan and allow to melt. Whisk in flour, stirring constantly. Add milk and continue to whisk until mixture becomes thick. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper. Set aside, whisking to ensure mixture doesn't become too thick. To assemble lasagna, place a layer of bĂŠchamel in the bottom of a lasagna pan. Add lasagna sheet, making sure to cover pan, you can break the sheets if needed. Layer with eggplant, mozzarella and sauce. Repeat until finished ending with lasagna sheet, sauce, mozzarella and sage leaves. Bake for 40 minutes until noodles are tender. Cover with foil if needed to prevent burning 89
FOR RISOTTO
1 medium onion, finely minced 32 ounces chicken broth 2 cups arborio rice 1 cup dry white wine Salt and pepper to taste Extra virgin olive oil FOR ARANCINI
1/2 pound mozzarella, cubed into 1 1/2 inch pieces 3 eggs, beaten 3 cups, all natural bread crumbs Chilled risotto Canola oil, for frying Maldon sea salt flakes, for seasoning Marinara, for serving
To prepare risotto: place chicken broth in a sauce pan over low heat, allow to come to a simmer. Place 2 tablespoons olive oil in a sautĂŠ pan over medium heat. Add onion, salt and pepper to taste and allow for onions to become translucent. Add rice and allow to cook for about 2 minutes, stirring to ensure that the rice doesn't burn. Add wine and stir until it becomes absorbed. Add one cup of hot chicken broth at a time, allowing for broth to be absorbed by the rice in each addition. Repeat until broth is gone and rice becomes tender. Allow to cool completely before assembling arancini. Risotto can be prepared up to three days in advance. To prepare Arancini: Place about 1 cup of canola oil in a sautĂŠ pan over medium heat until oil reads 350 degrees on a thermometer. Place bread crumbs, beaten eggs in separate bowls and cubed mozzarella in separate bowls. Fill an ice cream scooper with risotto. Place a piece of mozzarella in the center. Squeeze in palm to form a ball. Roll in egg mixture and then into bread crumbs. Fry until arancini becomes golden, moving them around in the pan taking care not to crowd the pan. Let cool slightly on a paper towel. Repeat until finished. Serve with tomato sauce if desired. Arancini can be made a day in advance and can be reheated in the oven or frozen. 90
arancini di siciliana
Arancini, a beloved Sicilian street food that combines arborio rice and a variety of fillings from peas to ground meat is breaded and fried to golden perfection. Here, a more traditional approach that combines mozzarella and marina for dipping.
Sicily is land of the cannoli; here, it gets reimagined into a tart with creamy chocolate ricotta placed inside of a almond pistachio crust.
chocolate ricotta tart with almond pistachio pastry 8 ounces slivered almonds ½ cup raw pistachios 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ teaspoon salt
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine almonds and pistachios in a blender. Pulse until the mixture resembles flour. Add sugar and salt and pulse until combined. Pour into a bowl. Add melted butter and stir to combine. To prepare crust, depending on size of pan, place mixture into tin. Press pie crust into pan using hands, making it about 1 inch thick. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until crust is lightly browned. Let cool completely before using. Once cooled remove crust gently from tin and set on a rack or plate. For Filling Place ricotta in a bowl. Using an
electric mixer, beat for about 3 to 5 minutes until ricotta becomes fluffy. Slowly add sugar, continuing to beat. Add cocoa and salt, continue mixing. Place into prepared crusts. Spread ricotta mixture evenly. Top with fresh mint before serving. Serve tart chilled.
¾ stick of butter, melted 3 cups good quality ricotta, chilled ½ cup powdered sugar 3 tablespoons good quality unsweetened cocoa powder pinch of sea salt fresh mint, for garnish Makes one large tart or up to a dozen small tarts
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Pollara, Salina located just off the coast of Sicily in the Aeolian Islands is known for its capers. The first Sunday in June, the island comes together to toast and eat this pickled flower bud. The caper is versatile and be combined in a few ways, like lemony pasta with fresh parsley.
lemony pasta with capers & parsley 1/2 cup of capers preserved in salt, rinsed 1/2 lemon juiced 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 cup chopped parsley Red pepper flakes, to taste Spaghetti, 4 to 5 ounces* Parmigiano-Reggiano, for garnish Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add spaghetti and cook until al dente, or preferred taste. Return to pot. Add rinsed capers, lemon juice, olive oil, chopped parsley and red pepper, stir to combine. Plate and garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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written, styled, photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
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97 sin. DA L M AT I A N W E L L S H O R T VA S E / PL A N T E R S PE C K L E D W E L L TA L L VA S E
a STUDY IN CONTRAST
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lack and white a classic pairing, yet seemingly modern, especially when handmade ceramics enter the picture. Make a visual statement with this dynamic duo.
sin. PAPER PLATES M I N I PA PE R PL AT E , S M A L L PA PE R PL AT E , L A R G E PA PE R PL AT E
PAPER MUG & FILTER BOWLS PA PE R M U G , S M A L L F I LT E R B OW L , L A R G E F I LT E R B OW L
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frances palmer VASE & BOWL for similair
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VA S E , B OW L
btw CERAMICS BOWL
for similair
C E R A M I C B OW L
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pie SEASON N
othing says fall quite like a pie that is fresh out of the oven. Harvest season yields fruit that just beckon to be swirled with cinnamon, sugar and wrapped in a flakey pastry.
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ALISON ENGSTROM
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e count down all year until table grape season arrives at the fresh market. Syrupy and distinctly sweet, purple Concords and green Niagara grapes are delicious when incorporated into a tart.
pie CRUST While opting for a store bought crust might be an easy option, nothing is quite like creating in your own kitchen. With the right technique and the best ingredients, a delicious crust can be prepared in no time.
2 1/2 cups flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 sticks chilled unsalted butter, cubed 3 tablespoons ice water* To prepare crust, place flour, sugar and salt in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until it resembles cornmeal. Add one tablespoon of ice water at a time, until mixture comes together. *If needed, continue to add more water until dough begins to form. Form into two disks, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
tablegrape TART 1 recipe for pie crust To prepare filling, gently slip the the skins 2 lbs tablegrapes, Concord and/or from the grape flesh. Place flesh into a Niagra medium sauce pan and skin into a bowl. Add sugar, lemon juice and corn starch and 1/2 cup sugar cook over medium heat until the grapes 1/4 of a lemon juiced begin to breakdown, about five minutes. 1 tablespoon of cornstarch Place a fine sieve over the grape skins and press mixture into skins, this will allow for pinch of salt the seeds to separate. Stir together and 1 egg, beaten set aside. Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling To prepare tart, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place flour on a working surface. Roll one of the disks into a circle. Gently roll dough around rolling pin to release it into the pan. Poke holes in the bottom. Crimp edges if desired. Pour grape mixture into crust. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle crust with turbinado sugar. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until crush is golden and center is set. Let cool before serving.
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blue plum crostada with CINNAMON RYE CRUST
Blue Italian plums are slightly sweetened with sugar and wrapped effortlessly in a sweet Cinnamon Rye Crust. CRUST
F I LLI N G
1 cup flour 9 Blue Plums, sliced (if unavailable 1 1/2 cups rye flour* regular plums will do) 2 sticks chilled unsalted 1/2 lemon, juiced butter, diced 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 teaspoons cinnamon Pinch of sea salt pinch of sea salt 1 egg, slightly beaten 3 tablespoons ice water* Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling
To prepare crust, place flour, rye flour, sugar, cinnamon and salt in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles cornmeal. One tablespoon at a time, add ice water. If needed, continue to add more water until dough begins to form. Form into two disks, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. To prepare filling, place plums, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. Stir to combine. Set aside. To prepare crostada, preheat oven to 400 degrees Place parchment paper on a working surface and generously flour surface. Roll dough until it forms a decent circle. Place filling in the middle taking care to leave at least 2 to 3 inches of overhang. Gently fold edges over filling. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle generously with sugar. Holding parchment, gently place onto a baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes or until crust is golden. Allow to cool before serving.
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CRUST
see previous recipe F I LLI N G
8 medium apples, peeled and diced 1/4 cup light brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and minced 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt
C R U M B LE
1/2 cup light brown sugar 1 cup flour 1 stick butter, softened 1 cup walnuts, roughly chopped
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. To prepare filling, place apples, brown sugar, ginger, cinnamon and salt in a bowl. Mix to combine and set aside. Prepare crust, by flouring a working surface. Roll out one disk of dough until it can cover the pie crust pan. Gently roll dough around rolling pin to release it into the pan. Generously poke holes in the bottom. Crimp edges if desired and set aside. To prepare crumble, add sugar, flour, butter, walnuts, cinnamon and salt in a bowl. Using pastry cutter or hands, gently work mixture until it begins to form together when pressed in the palm of your hand. To assemble pie, place filling in pie crust. Generously pile with walnut crumble. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until apples are tender. Monitor carefully after 30 minutes, pie might need to be covered with tin foil to allow for the apples to become soft. Serve warm or at room temperature.
2 teaspoons cinnamon
apple ginger pie with SPICED WALNUT CRUMBLE 110
Apple pie is quintessentially fall, so why not add flavors that accentuate the sweet fruit? Here, apples are mixed with zesty minced ginger and topped with a mouth watery Spiced Walnut Crumble.
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Nothing is quite as decadent as browned butter. When swirled with freshly picked pears, cinnamon and sugar, it is a match made in dessert heaven.
brown buttered PEAR PIE CRUST
see previous recipe F I LLI N G
8 large pears, peeled and diced 3/4 cup unsalted butter 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg Pinch of sea salt Turbinado sugar for sprinkling 1 egg, beaten
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Flour a working surface to roll out two discs of dough, large enough to cover the pie dish. Gently place one disk into dish. Set aside. Meanwhile, over medium heat, melt butter and allow to turn a golden brown shade, stirring occasionally. Once browned, add pears, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt and stir together. Cook for two minutes to let sugar dissolve. Pour into pie pan. Roll out second disk of dough. Gently roll on top of pie filling. Crimp edges, brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar. Cut an 'x' in the center to allow for the heat to penetrate. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until crust is golden. Let cool before serving.
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I DI
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enim is a wardrobe staple and with so many options to choose from - flared! skinny! high-rise! boyfriend!, the options are endless. Here, we rounded up the very best.
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CITIZENS OF HUMANIT Y
CH M chambray top 116
M R 117
CITIZENS OF HUMANIT Y
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premium vintage fleetwood jean 118
CITIZENS OF HUMANIT Y
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avedon ultra skinny ankle jean 119
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IS carlie high rise skinny 121
JA M E S J E A N S
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juliette flare
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MCGUIRE DENIM
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bessette culotte 123
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T H E A R R I VA L S THE ARRIVELS
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similar denim jacket in indigo 124
MCGUIRE DENIM
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S I RT confessional pencil skirt
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JA M E S J E A N S
T I GY I H SS twiggy high class 126
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R I A LT O J E A N PR O J E C T
F IE the boyfriend jean 129
Y
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hat better time of year is there to add a little spice to your life than in the fall? Sure, there is basic cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, but thanks to La BoĂŽte, a Manhattan-based shop, spices are reimagined by Lior Lev Sercarz, a chef and master spice blender. It all started with an externship in France with Olivier Roellinger, a renowned French chef and spice maker that opened the world of spices for Sercarz. He then brought that knowledge to New York and worked alongside the great Daniel Boulud at Daniel. In 2006, he decided to venture out on his own and open La BoĂŽte Biscuits & Spices, in the Hells Kitchen section of New York City, both a shop and art gallery. With over 41 different spices, ordinary meals can be transformed and taken to a whole new delicious level.
just add a little spice
mishmish honey lemon saffron
Serving Suggestion
Season chicken, yogurt or fruit, like baked apples
galil verbena sage white cardamom
Serving Suggestion
Sprinkle on poached fish or incorporate into herbal tea 133
spices from
LA B OĂŽT E B IS C U IT S & S PIC E S
724 11th Avenue, New York, NY
tangier rose petal cumin cardamom cinnamon Serving Suggestion
Bring out the flavors of fruit and soups
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country serenade styled & photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
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right Kim Haller Riley Body Suit
& Kim Haller Sonya Cardigan
both available at
O PE N IN G C E REMON Y
left and previous page Kim Haller Coraline Pullover available at 139
OP E N IN G C E R E M O N Y
Kim Haller Adelaide Cardigan & Kim Haller Clara Skirt both available at 141
OP EN I N G CEREMON Y
Lie Sangbong Jacket available at Lie Sangbong 30 Gansevoort Street, NYC Kim Haller Juliette Dress in Black available at
OP EN I N G CEREMON Y
L AUREN CE DA CA DE I N DY BOOT
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left Kim Haller Jane Sweatshirt available at O PE N IN G C E R E M O N Y
below Lie Sangbong Dress available at Lie Sangbong 30 Gansevoort Street, NYC
Hanley Blue Suede Dress available at
H AN L E Y N Y C .C O M
BuDhaGirl Necklace available at B U DH AG IR L .C O M
Laurence Dacade Isabella Heel available at
LA U R E N C E DE C AD E .C O M
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Kim Haller Julietter Dress in Navy available at
OP EN I N G CEREMON Y
BuDhaGirl All Weather Gold Bangles Buddhist Bracelets available at
L AR IS S A S IM PS O N,
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model J A MES
BUDH A G I RL .COM
MI L L I G AN ,
hair & makeup
ISL
151 TH E VI EW S F ROM RI N EL L A BEA CH I N SA L I N A
A V O YA G E T O T H E A E O L I A N I S L A N D S
written and photographed by
ALISON ENGSTROM
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the green mountains are sharply carved and reach high into the sky, even touching the clouds."
when to go
The majority of the islands are open for tourism six months out of the year and many of the hotels are open from April to October. Visiting during shoulder season will guarantee a more peaceful experience - May, June, September and October, since July and August they are filled with travelers on holiday. There are many locals that live on the islands year round and see a dramatic, yet pleasant drop in the population come November.
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TH E C H U R C H O F T H E
I M M A CU LATA, AS S E E N FR OM TH E GA R DE N S O F HOT E L R AV E S I
S
ailing the open seas evokes a sense of intangible freedom. When it involves traveling to the Aeolian Islands just off the coast Italy, you might as well be sailing off to heaven. Composed of eight islands to the west of Naples, this cluster of islands are where one travels to loose themselves in the beauty of the still sea and nature - Stromboli and Volcano are two active volcanos that make their fiery presence known. Each offers a different feeling, some are more laden with tourists and are sought after for their nightlife, while others are havens of serenity. In order to experience the best of both worlds, we begin in Salina known for its serene and lush landscape, jaggedy mountains, just north of Limpari, the largest of the islands. Dotted with small towns, we stay in Malfa situated to the north. From the taxi ride from the port of Santa Marina, you are instantly captivated by the scenery. The green mountains are sharply carved and reach high into the sky, even touching the clouds. The terrain steeply cascades down to the inhabited land that is abounding with grape vines, lemon and olive trees and then sinks further down to the sea, which is dotted with whitewashed homes and the occasional steepled church. We arrive at Hotel Ravesi, a mini-oasis, located in the center of town on the main street, Via Roma, which 152
below THE C A STL E IN T H E C L O U DS IN PO LL A RA left T HE SE R E N E E X T E R IO R O F H O T E L R AVESI
getting around salina
Salina is too large and hilly to get around by foot. There are plenty of taxis on the island that can get you from place to place, or rent a moped, like the locals, or a car from one of the few rental companies. Daily moped rentals costs about 20 euros.
has all of the essentials: the coiffure, dentist, panificio filled with freshly made bread, meat shop, super market and gelateria. It is lined with homes that are brushed in shades of orange sherbet and sky blue with Juliet balconies overflowing with greenery. Spending a few hours around the Piazza Immaculata, you can spot the locals, like the older woman with tightly spun curls and a gently worn blue dress that hovered just about 4 1/2 feet off that ground. She walked to and from the market many times throughout the day, with her husband trailing behind with the bags.
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above A F I SH I N G BOAT I DL I N G left TH E ROA D TO MA L FA
I N TH E SEA
"arriving in panarea you instantly feel the island’s energy.
A personal mode of transportation works best, I recommend a vespa, which allows you to move with the pace of the locals, which is gloriously slow and with intention. The roads are steep and dramatically twist and guarantee a gasp at each turn. While the beaches are rocky, the water beckons to be enjoyed from the inlet in Lingua, Punta Scario in Malfa or the black sand beach of Rinella. Enjoying the sunset in Salina is how you should end each day, just before savoring a delicious dinner that could consist of brick oven pizza drizzled with chili oil or pasta with local capers from Pollara. Best viewed by the abandoned castle, you will see the sun disappear into the ocean, all the while painting the sky in fiery bursts of orange and magenta. The people
of Salina are warm, friendly and it is clear that they are passionate about their home. I asked a local, “Do you ever tire of this breathtaking scenery?” She quickly replied “No. Everyday the landscape is a little different”. I look at her and she slowly drops her jaw. “The beauty is stunning”, she said smiling. I couldn't have agreed more. Arriving in Panarea you instantly feel the island’s energy. Gulf carts and their drivers, acting as taxis, are lined in a row waiting for the passengers to arrive from the incoming ferry. Our boat docks just before noon on a warm and sunny Saturday, with our only intentions to relax at the beach and explore the town by foot (the only cars on the islands are the small farming trucks synonymous with Europe). After checking in at Hotel R AYA, we decide to take their recommendation and visit Zimmari beach. While it is about a 20 minute stroll from the port, it is worth the walk down the curvy and hilly stone road flanked by beautiful mansions with colorful doors. All of the homes have names like ‘Villa Lasagna’ and are hand painted in script on locally made ceramic tiles. Unlike many beaches on the Aeolian islands this beach isn't rocky, rather, it has silky sand that feels and looks like soft brown sugar. The water is so clear and still it is like you are swimming in oil. The beach is surrounded by mountains covered with cactuses and yellow wild flowers, while the harbor offshore anchors luxury yachts. Panarea is the smallest of the islands, so it is best to stay only for a day or two, so that you can discover the other beauty that lays before you and since it is Italy, there is an abundance.
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T H E IN F IN IT Y PO O L AT H OTEL RAVESI TH AT L OOKS TO STROMBOL I
notable aeolian island beaches
An inlet on a rocky beach on the southeastern part of the island that is great for idling in clear, shallow water. Look out for orange and black sea urchins that huddle until rocks. Enjoy a nice lunch or dinner at one of restaurants located seaside like Da Alfredo. P O L L A R A , S A L I N A While erosion has caused one of the beaches to whither away, hike down from the main road in Pollara to the black sand beach with striking cliffs in the same hue. R I N E L L A , S A L I N A A soft black sand beach with views of Sicily. This laid-back beach is perfect for catching some rays or swimming.P U N T A S C A R I O , S A L I N A Follow the signs down from Malfa to Punta Scario, a small beach with lapis colored water. While it is quite the hike, as all destinations by the sea in Salina, it is worth the trip for the serenity and beauty that will be experienced. Z I M M A R I , P A N A R E A A beach about 20 minutes from the town center with clearer water than a swimming pool. After a long day at the beach and you don’t feel like coming out of your state of relaxation, call a local taxi to pick you up and drop you off at your hotel. LINGUA, SALINA
TH E STA I RWAY TO H EAVEN AT H OTEL RAYA I N PA N A REA
"the water is so clear and still, it is like you are swimming in oil 161
photographs and recipes reprinted with permission. copyright Š 2015
G I N TA R E M A R C E L
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A E R I A L M E D I A C O M PA N Y
151 L'A R T DE L A TA BLE : TASTE OF THE ME DITE R R A NE A N by Gintare Marcel
BOOK REVIEW
T
here are some cook books that you might brush through quickly, trying to figure out what you can cook for your next meal or dinner party. Then there are the books that you savor each and every page, not only because they leave your mouth-watering, but rather, each page is just too beautiful not to. The latter is the case with L'Art de la Table: Taste of the Mediterranean written by Gintare Marcel, an incredible photographer, stylist and food lover. Currently based in Switzerland, but born in Lithuania, Gintare has lived all over Europe including the Netherlands, France and Italy, all of which have left a lasting impression on her taste buds and manifested her love for delicious food. The book takes you through a days worth of Europeaninspired cooking, starting with breakfast and then of course finishing with 'glorious desserts'. Each page draws you in and has the innate ability to transport you to where food and conversation are celebrated, whether it be a sunny afternoon eating lunch alfresco in Provence or pasta by the sea in Trapani, Sicily. Each recipe is juxtaposed with a story and the scenery or location that inspired it. By the time you have finished relishing in each page and recipe, you will find yourself yearning for European travel, where life moves at a slower pace and the most important moments in life are cherished - food, family and friends. Below are a few recipes excerted from L'Art de la Table: Taste of the Mediterranean to inspire your autumn cooking.
previous page CHESTNUT AND FENNEL SOUP WITH TALEGGIO TOAST
This is one of my trickier soups. Its color is neither bright nor eye-popping, and thus does not create much in the way of anticipation or give away just how delicious it actually is. Caramelizing fennel creates more flavor, as does adding fennel seeds. And the cherry on the cake, so to speak, is the Taleggio toast, which perfectly matches the autumn flavors of the soup.
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 large fennel or 2 small ones, about 300 g/10½ oz 2 shallots 1tbsp fennel seeds zest of 1 lemon 300 g/10½ oz roasted chestnuts, roughly chopped 1 l/4 cups chicken or vegetable stock salt and freshly ground pepper 200 ml/¾ cup milk or cream 2 tbsp parsley, chopped TO SERVE
A few slices of toasted bread A few slices of Taleggio cheese TIME
30 mins
SERVINGS
4
Heat a wide casserole dish until very hot; add the oil and fennel and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes until the fennel starts to caramelize. Add the shallots and fennel seeds and continue to cook for another minute. Finally, stir in the zest, chestnuts and stock. Season the soup with salt and pepper and cook for another 15-20 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes, then blend in batches and stir in the milk. Return to the heat and allow it to simmer for a while; taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the parsley just before serving. Place the cheese on the toasted bread and melt under the grill for about a minute. Serve the soup hot with the Taleggio toast.
this page MULLED CIDER
I always begin making hot cider when the last leaves are falling off the trees and Christmas is just around the corner. It has a way of filling the home with a most wonderful aroma that invites you to cozy up on the sofa with a warm blanket and a good book to nourish the soul. 1 liter/4 cups cider 2 tbsp light brown sugar 1 orange, sliced 1 cinnamon stick 1 vanilla pod, halved TIME
15 mins
SERVING s
8
Add all of the ingredients to a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and continue to cook for another 7-10 minutes before serving. *Mulled cider can also be prepared in advance and reheated. 165
PUMPKIN, SAGE AND BACON TART
Pumpkin and sage for me are quintessentially fall - comforting and elegant, nourishing and pretty. This savory tart is the very definition of comfort food made fancy and it makes for a lovely appetizer or snack during a dinner party. The pastry here is so thin that it melts immediately in your mouth, giving way to the taste of crunchy bacon buried in a creamy blue cheese blanket. A veritable feast for the senses.
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shortcrust pastry (see page 276) 200 g/7 oz smoked bacon, diced 45g/3 tbsp unsalted butter 4 onions, cut in half and sliced ½ medium-sized butternut squash, diced
100 g/3½ oz gorgonzola cheese (or any other blue cheese) salt and freshly ground pepper a handful of fresh sage leaves, shredded TIME
1 1/2 hour s
SERVINGS
4¯6
2 eggs 160 ml/⅔ cup cream
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F. Roll out the dough to the thickness of a
dime and use the rolling pin to transfer it into a 36 x 13 cm/14 x 5 inch tart base, carefully pressing it down. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes in the fridge. Once chilled, prick the bottom of the tart in a few spots with a fork. Place a sheet of baking paper on top of the pastry and fill the form with beans or baking weights to prevent the pastry from rising. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the baking paper and weights and continue to bake for 10 more minutes. To make the filling, heat a large frying pan and fry the diced bacon until it turns crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel. Wipe the pan clean, melt the butter and fry the onions for 15-20 minutes on a medium heat until caramelized. If the pan is too dry add another knob of butter before adding the butternut squash. Continue to cook for 2-3 minutes more and set aside. Beat the eggs with the cream and season with salt and pepper. Spread the caramelized onions and squash on the tart base, sprinkle over the bacon, crumble the gorgonzola on top, and then pour over the eggs and finish with a generous amount of sage. Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes. Serve hot or cold.
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TEA-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH GRAPES
This, without a doubt, is one the best roast chicken dishes out there, or at least for me it is. My secret ingredient is smoky black tea from China - Lapsang Souchong - which is fortunately widely available and stocked by most tea shops. The chicken is brined overnight in the aromatic liquid, which results not only in the most moist and succulent chicken but also imparts a delicate smoky flavor that permeates every bite. The rosemary, grapes and butter sauce marries perfectly with the delicate chicken, creating a symphony of flavors that linger in the mouth long after the meal is finished.
1.5 kg/3 lb and 5 oz chicken 5 tbsp lapsang souchong tea 4 tbsp salt 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise 1 tsp black peppercorns 1 lemon, sliced
a bunch of fresh rosemary 60 g/4 tbsp butter, softened 200 g/7 oz grapes 4 garlic cloves, halved 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½ kg/18 oz potatoes TIME
2 hours
SERVINGS
4
The day before cooking, add the tea to 1.5 liters/6 cups of boiling water, cover, and let it steep for 6 minutes. Discard the tea leaves and then add the salt, sugar, cinnamon stick, star anise and peppercorns. Let it simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave to cool to room temperature. Drain, and reserve the liquid. Put the chicken in a double ziplock bag, pour in the marinade (making sure it covers all of chicken) and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours. On the day of cooking, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F. Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat it dry. Stuff it with the lemon and rosemary, then rub with 30 g of the butter. Halve the grapes, remove the seeds and scatter around the chicken along with the garlic, then brush the grapes with a little more butter. Place in the oven for 75-90 minutes. Once out of the oven, flip the chicken over, cover with foil and a tea towel and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes; 30 is even better. Turn the oven up to 220°C/430°F. Dice the potatoes, place in a saucepan with cold water and bring to the boil. Then drain and rinse with cold water and leave to dry for a few minutes. Toss the potatoes with the oil and the remaining butter, season with salt and pepper and bake for 30 minutes until crispy and golden brown (do this while the chicken is resting). Serve the roasted chicken with the grapes, potatoes and the juices from the meat.
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200 g/7 oz good quality dark chocolate 80 g/5½ tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing a baking tin 40 g/¼ cup sugar 4 eggs, separated pinch of salt zest of 1 orange (optional) 2 tbsp Grand Marnier (optional) Cinnamon custard or ice cream ½ vanilla pod, seeds scraped out 1 cinnamon stick 250 ml/1 cup whole milk 80 ml/⅓ cup cream 2 egg yolks 2 tbsp sugar 1 teaspoon corn starch TIME
45 mins
SERVINGS
6
Tip In summer time, the same custard can be poured into an ice cream maker to give you an incredibly delicate cinnamon ice cream. Just remember to skip the corn starch when making ice cream.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F. Melt the
chocolate and butter in a bowl over hot water, stirring every once in a while. It will take 2-4 minutes for the chocolate and butter to melt. Note: make sure that the water is not boiling or touching the bowl or the chocolate may start to cook. While the chocolate and butter are melting, grease an 18cm baking tin and set aside. Once the chocolate has melted, remove the bowl from the hot water and stir in the sugar, followed by the egg yolks, one at a time. Finally, add the zest and Grand Marnier (if using). Quickly whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt into stiff peaks. Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the chocolate batter, adding 1/3 of the whites at a time. Do not overbeat it. Pour everything into the buttered tin and bake for 25-30 minutes and then allow to rest for 5-10 minutes before serving. For the cinnamon custard, split the vanilla pod and scrape out the seeds, add them (with the pod) to the milk and cream, together with the cinnamon stick. Bring to a light simmer, remove from the heat and let everything infuse for 30 minutes, then strain and bring to a simmer again. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar and corn starch until fluffy and doubled in mass, then slowly pour in the milk, stirring vigorously all the time. Once all the milk is incorporated, return the custard to the heat and continue to cook on a medium-low heat, stirring all the time, until it coats the back of a wooden spoon. This will take about 5 minutes. Pour into a jug and serve immediately with the chocolate cake. 170
F L O U R L E S S C H O C O L AT E C A K E W I T H C I N N A M O N C U S TA R D
If chocolate was a religion I would most likely be amongst its most devoted followers, for it is a substance with the power to make our worldly worries seem of lesser importance. This cake has powers of its own too. It is extremely rich and even fudgy, and when a slice of it is lying in front of you nothing else really matters. Fluffy cream or ice cream is essential to this kind of cake, I’m afraid, and when the seasons turn colder cinnamon custard is simply irreplaceable.
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