Resident Magazine: February 2012

Page 129

A Voce,

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B y

T R U E

C h r i s t o p h e r

The restaurant has two locations. One, around the th and Madison, shares the same concept and chef with its more glamorous sister in the Time Warner Center. Recently a good friend and I had an amazing meal at their Columbus Circle location.

A.

circle itself, A Voce strikes all the chords - on all the right notes.

V O I C E

P a p e

loosely translated as the voice in Italian, is appropriately named for the stunningly beautiful room and perfectly delicious food that is on display at the restaurant. Brining haute Italian to a wide audience it has quickly become a perennial favorite of the in-the-know Manhattan crowd and those who wish to be like us. With a ringing clarity of focus (it could be said A Voce is the Joan Sutherland of restaurants), it is serving up some of the most fascinating and delectable Italian fare that I’ve had it a long time.

To name everything we ate would require a level of dedication and time on the part of the reader as to make was heavenly. We started with a Carpaccio of thinly sliced prime beef, asiago, cracked mustard seeds and capers; a

roasted trumpet royal mushrooms, fonduta, mache and hazelnuts. That beef from the Carpaccio was almost (ALMOST!) alive as if it was mooing – so fresh and rare was it that it matched exceedingly well with the sharpness off the asiago and vinegary taste of the capers. We also loved the fatty goodness of the pancetta with its culinary revelation. Moving onto the pastas, for which the restaurant is rightly known; and we loved the way in which each dish was prepared and presented. The sagne all Amatriciana made with hand-crafted pasta, bacon San Marzano tomatoes, pecorino and marjoram and gnocchi with squash, brown butter, amaretti and pumpkin seeds. The sagne was nicely al dente and was melded well with the tangy tomatoes, fatty bacon and crunchiness of the pumpkin seeds. But perfect that I contemplated writing a hymn in their honor. Bold, delicious and exotic Italian wines were paired with our dishes and we appreciated the nicely prepared desserts. Mention should also be made of their service which was friendly, knowledgeable and highly professional. Go see for yourself and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed!

Reach A Voce: 10 Columbus Circle 212.823.2523

Resident


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