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FAR FAR AWAY (In Your Own Backyard) In case you hadn’t noticed, we’ve got a big backyard. And fortunately for us, there are parks in Ontario and Quebec that not only preserve our wild hinterland, but also make it accessible to anyone ready for real adventure. These parks might take some effort to get to, but they’re definitely worth it.
Ontario POLAR BEAR PROVINCIAL PARK
BEST FEATURES: It’s totally off-grid, in a hard-to-get-to spot in the Far North. No phones, no roads, no facilities. Lots of polar bears. Due to the isolation, there’s no easy route to make your way into Polar Bear Park. The best bet: Charter a small bush plane with a local outfitter. They are only permitted to land at certain locations within access zones, and from there, you can leave the float plane behind and start exploring Ontario’s largest provincial park. The surreal scenery will immediately draw you in, especially in the early fall. Ontario Parks outlines four arrival spots: near the mouth of Brant River; landing in or near Sutton River; the beach ridge of Shagamu River; and the mid-Canada radar station on an abandoned airstrip. Sutton River has been the docking place of choice, with a few outfitters including other options (like Carrey Lake via Hearst Air). The park was created in 1970 by the Government of Ontario, with the goal of playing a significant role in protecting Ontario’s polar bears. Today it is a non-operating park, which means services and facilities for visitors are limited. It borders the northwest shores of James Bay, south to Cape Henrietta Maria, and west along the southern coast of Hudson Bay. It includes the abandoned ghost town of Winisk, and the park has two river mouths: the Sutton River and the Brandt. Named after Ontario’s largest carnivore and the park’s resident mammals, this region is the most southerly point of population for polar bears in the world. Basically, it’s polar bear central. The park spans 24,087 km2 and boasts 450 km of marine coastline, with some of the lowest-lying tundra located in the Hudson Bay Lowland. The park’s coastal plain tends to be on the dry side, and the highest embankments are the river edges. A massive stew of muskeg, the terrain is marshy, with lots of ponds and lakes. The climate is sub-Arctic. Animal spotting is common. Don’t be surprised if you see small furry mammals, like hares, otters and beavers, all the way up to larger ones, including moose, caribou and, yes, polar bears, the world’s largest land-based predators. Birders have stumbled upon a significant waterfowl breeding zone, abundant with Canadian species, from snow geese, common golden-eye and old squaw ducks, to common and Arctic loons. Early fall, before the nippy frost sets in, is when polar bears begin to migrate to the ice floes to hunt seals. The heavy traffic means animal sightings will likely occur, especially around the shallow tidal flats. This is backcountry wilderness camping and canoe tripping, so prepare for animal encounters of the polar bear kind, especially by their food sources along the rivers. The wabusks, Cree for “polar bear,” are unpredictable, and spend the ice-free period along the southern Hudson Bay. Reports indicate the polar bear population in the Southern Hudson Bay Lowlands is between 900 and 1,000, and you might see as many as 200 of them trudging the wetlands during the peak in late fall. While they are land-bound during the summer and early fall season, they don’t 18 fall 2013 adventuramag.ca
actively forage for food. Still, it’s estimated the average polar bear will annually travel around 300,000 km2 (that’s an area 42 times larger than the GTA). According to angler insiders, fishing for brook trout on the 120-km Sutton River is like no other fishing experience. The early stretch from its source at Hawley Lake is pretty drab, but a few kilometres upstream the river takes on another look, weedier with spotted tracks of pea gravel, perfect for snaring a four-pound trout. The river eventually spills into Hudson Bay, with occasional rapids in areas, but nothing big enough to pose any risks. The best locales for trout fishing are by the wadeable riffs, pools and runs (of which there are plenty). Head into the river with hip waders and cast a heavy spinner in the faster-moving current upstream. Great trout pools lurk at nearly every bend, and the best ones are by the shallow gravel. Paddle further north and the landscape changes from canopies of black spruce and alders to muskeg tundra. Where the land becomes barren, the sky lights up: Don’t miss your opportunity to watch the Northern Lights dancing in front of you. PLAN YOUR TRIP Closest town: Peawanuck, Ontario Activities available: Backcountry wilderness camping, canoe tripping, wildlife viewing and controlled fishing Park info: Consult Polar Bear Provincial Park for details at 705-272-7107 Getting there: Custom trips are available through niche tour operators in Timmins, Peawanuck and Thunder Bay, such as West Caribou Air (807-476-0323 • westcaribouair.com) and Hearst Air, which has canoes included in their packages (1-866-844-5700 • hearstair.wordpress.com) Top tips: Go polar-bear-ready with shotgun slugs. It’s recommended to pack a minimum of one week of extra supplies on top of the regular supply list in the event of an emergency.
Québec ANTICOSTI SEPAQ PARK
BEST FEATURES: When explorer Jacques Cartier discovered this isle in 1534, he declared the find Assomption, due to the day of his arrival coinciding with the Day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on the Christian calendar. Anticosti might not be a gateway to heaven, but it’s close. Get ready for an adventure filled with priceless natural encounters. Located at the mouth of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and lauded as one of Quebec’s natural jewels, the Sepaq Park was established in 1985. It shares the 222-km-long and 56-km-wide island with Anticosti National Park, a protected nature reserve located in the heart of the island, where hunting is off-limits. On the Sepaq side, game hunters break loose for the annual fall white-tailed deer hunt, a tradition that goes back to the Victorian age, when celebrities and tycoons flocked here en masse. It was Menier, a wealthy chocolate maker, who bought
© Polar Bear Provincial Park
BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY