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TIP OF THE SAGUENAY FJORD I WAS FINALLY OFF-GRID. In a boreal forest in
Quebec’s Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean region, my only connection to the real world was a battery-operated radio. And even with that the reception was spotty. It didn’t matter, though. It was the call of the wild that lured me there, not the ring of my cellphone. The outside world means little when you’re faced with second-growth conifers standing taller than an urban skyscraper, in what’s known to locals as the Kingdom of the Saguenay. It was the Iroquois that dubbed the Saguenay a kingdom, a land rich in gold and treasures. Situated
250 km north of Quebec City, the Saguenay is full of spectacular sights, but there are two signature sites: Lac Saint-Jean and the Saguenay fjord, the longest, most southerly fjord in North America. The first tourist – Jacques Cartier – arrived in 1534 to a land of plenty: gorgeous views, fish, timber and fjords that were only seen back in Europe. Later, fur traders arrived for what was considered an easy route to the ocean, and eventually homesteaders came in 1837, drawn to the abundance of fur, fish and lumber. Today, this huge wilderness region is celebrating its 175th anniversary. It’s Quebec’s third-largest region,
and the province reports that 93 percent of it is crown land. A small population, below 275,000, calls the region home (many still drawn by big industries in lumber, pulp and paper, and mining). The Bleuets, a nickname for the locals inspired by the profusion of blueberry bushes, are hardier than their name suggests. A huge flood devastated the region in 1996; it was Quebec’s worst natural disaster. This was the perfect location for a shake-up adventure trip in the great outdoors. One that was going to challenge me, and get me some blissful time with wild creatures. Our start point was at Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux, 30 minutes outside Saint-Fulgence, and only 45 minutes from the Parc National des Monts-Valin. The heavily forested park overlooks the famous fjord, and features a range of activities that appeal to adrenaline-seekers.
Designed for athletes and novices alike, the idea is to have a good time, whether you’re ziplining, canopy jumping or shuffling along a Via Ferrata. We had planned on starting with the adventures the following day, but I should have known the trip was going to escalate on my first night. Cap Jaseux offers one extreme challenge after another, and that includes the accommodation (especially if you have agoraphobic tendencies, like myself). We slept in a tree house suspended so high, I could see the spiny Saguenay fjord in the distance. That night I only heard crickets and tree frogs, but I was told a wolf might join in at any time. Their howl can make your hair stand
on end, but boy is it invigorating! We missed the call of the wild that night, but I still had hopes that I might get that animal encounter later. The next morning, huddled over a campfire eating a fried-egg breakfast and quaffing the best coffee ever, we settled on our day’s itinerary. I arrived with a small group. Some of us put bets on the canopy tour, while others chose the Via Ferrata – a Roman term meaning Iron Way. People literally hang off iron pegs wedged into the ancient cliff, using only a harness, carabiners, a good pair of hiking boots and their steely brawn to scale across the Canadian Shield’s hard rock face. I preferred to spot them from
afar, clinging like specks to the cliff’s edge by the fjord. The canopy tour group was busy diving into nets suspended high between the conifers, challenging themselves to a web of 73 bridges covering four distinct terrains. Very little is holding you back in this 20-metre-high treetop obstacle course. Expect a combination of floating rope bridges with thin wooden slats for steps, tree climbing, and big fat jump pads that mimic something from the TV show Wipeout, but without the cushy water landing. Instead, the backdrop is forest, uneven terrain, and did I mention rocks? Don’t fret though, you’re always attached to a harness or have the assurance of a safety net below.
BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY
16 fall 2013 adventuramag.ca