Professional Beauty Mar-April

March/April 2013

www.probeauty.co.za

Fashion Focus Autumn/Winter nail colours

Durban

Show Preview See who will be at Professional Beauty Durban

Hair

Removal System reviews

Medical Aesthetics Trends 2013

bold new world!

Emerging trends in male treatments

SKIN FITNESS FOR HIM

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n active lifestyle, daily skin aggression from shaving, environmental conditions, photo-damage, and free-radicals quickly take their toll on Men’s skin resulting in unique skin concerns. Offer male clients an easy anti-aging daily program and a selection of result-driven in-spa treatments with Pevonia.

CONCERNS

Razor Burn • Folliculitis • Loss of Elasticity • Sensitivity • Visible Lines & Wrinkles • Dehydration

“Pevonia offers a dynamic home program to deliver desensitizing, repairing, and rejuvenating benefits.”

AQUA-GEL FOAMING CLEANSER

A naturally foaming cleanser that thoroughly removes daily impurities while hydrating skin. Its masculine, natural aroma soothes and delights the senses.

Also ideal to refreshingly cleanse the skin post-fitness or sports.

EASY-GLIDE SHAVING EMULSION

Microemulsified, this silky emulsion delivers the ultimate shaving experience. Facilitating the razor’s glide, its advanced formulation transforms the commonly aggressive shaving ritual (removing the hydrolipidic protective film from the skin), into a non-invasive, non-irritating close shave. His face is rendered evenly shaved and velvety-smooth without sensitivity or razor burn.

SOOTHING AFTER SHAVING BALM

Superbly light-textured, this after shaving balm completes the morning ritual by hydrating, decongesting and desensitizing his skin. Combining the latestdiscovered soothing phyto-extract: Portulaca, with Green Tea and Ginkgo Biloba, this balm combats free-radicals, diffuses redness and brings forth healing.

AGE-DEFYING MYOXY-CAVIAR® BALM

Applying this cutting-edge, light-textured balm to the facial and eye zones daily will smooth fine lines and preserve youthful skin.

This unsurpassed formula with micronized actives: Myoxy-Caviar® (repairing), Marine Collagen (wrinkle-smoothing), Marine Elastin (firming), Vitamin ‘C’ (energizing), and Alpha Lipoic Acid (anti-free radicals), is easily and completely absorbed, providing the skin a powerful anti-aging defense.

IN-SPA TREATMENT YOUTHFUL VITALITY…

Solidly positioned at the forefront of spa innovation, Pevonia offers this results-driven spa treatment to safeguard his skin against daily aggressions and combat the signs of aging. Specifically formulated to address your male clients’ skin concerns, the SkinFit Mask Treatment contains superlative formulations of natural ingredients.

Incorporating the latest anti-aging discoveries, this unique tri-phase treatment combines a potent blend of natural actives for visible skin improvement. Myoxy-Caviar® (rejuvenating), high-tech freeze-dried Escutox® (wrinkle-smoothing), Marine Collagen (anti-wrinkle), Marine Elastin (firming), and Vitamin C (energizing), synergize to restore your skin by smoothing its overall texture while reducing lines and wrinkles.

TO PRESERVE YOUTHFUL VITALITY FROM HEAD TO TOE OFFER A COMPLETE AT HOME REGIMEN FOR MEN. YOUTH-RENEW CAVIAR HAND & FOOT CREAM

Exquisitely luscious, this cream delivers the ultimate anti-aging formula by precisely blending Caviar, Marine Collagen, Retinol, and Vitamins A & E, within a natural healing base of Shea Butter. Treated hands and feet are unveiled velvety-smooth, gloriously renewed, lighter in color, and deeply hydrated with valuable UV protection.

SILKY SKIN BODY SCRUB

Longing for silky-soft skin? Jojoba Beads, Rosemary, Sage, and Lemon Essential Oil precisely combine to gently polish away roughness and remove impurities.

ANTI-STRESS BATH & SHOWER GEL

Envisioning stress-free relaxation? Cleanse, hydrate, and rinse away stress with a refreshing blend of Hazel Nut Oil, Chamomile, and Lavender.

PRESERVE BODY MOISTURIZER

Desiring optimum hydration? Replenish moisture, combat dryness, and prevent chafing with Rose extract, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and visibly repairing Vitamins B & E. BRISAN DISTRIBUTORS & BRISAN ACADEMY

Phone: 011 314 2799

086 127 4726

www.pevoniasa.com

brisan@brisandistributors.co.za

simple Online Entry No more complicated porfolios and preparations ENTER ONLINE www.probeauty.co.za

2013 Awards

Enter Now

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CONTENTS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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41

March/April 2013 Regulars

Spa focus

Features

9 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front

17 Spa news What’s happening in the spa industry

25 Men are from Mars Male grooming – a progressive market

19 Embracing motherhood Introducing Mommy Wellness Day Spa

31 PB Durban 2013 What’s going to happen at the show

Medical Aesthetics

35 Hair removal Treatments experienced first-hand

12 Business Training – protect your investment 14 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Interactive wellness column

59 Aesthetic predictions 2013 Trends for the year ahead

23 Treatment review Current offerings

Nails

62 Product news All the latest launches

52 Inspired by earth’s elements Autumn/Winter colours 2013

64 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP

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43 Understanding Retinol Highlighting ingredient benefits 47 Light of Life LED technology

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WELCOME

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have never said no to a challenge.

And neither should you. In fact, it is important to constantly challenge yourself, so that you and your business do not stagnate, and, in some very sad cases, close your doors for good.

Although new salons are cropping up around almost every street corner, there are still a large number that have not made it in this competitive industry. Which one are you going to be?

You need to prioritise and strategise. First off, you can’t be everything to everyone, so decide what your strengths and specialities are and focus on those – niche is the way to go.

My formula for success is simple: get the right staff, train them regularly,

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

online at www.probeauty.co.za

pay and motivate them properly, and bend over backwards for your clients – service is everything; always make sure you can offer them what they want and need.

A spa and salon can spend millions on design, décor and equipment, but if you don’t breathe energy and life into your establishment, you will never gain long-term client loyalty – the key to profitability in this business.

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor-in-chief Sally Harvey

011 781 5970

sally@probeauty.co.za

Sales manager Belinda Wewege

073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za

Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za

Subscribe 9 issues for R429 (SA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

On the cover Cover arranged by Nimue 086 006 4683 Photographer: Mark Siddall

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com

Sales executive - Medical Aesthetics Sally-Jane Nkomo 071 268 2868 sally-jane@probeauty.co.za Subscriptions Salomie Scarth

011 781 5970

salomie@probeauty.co.za

Art director Ursula Wong

011 781 5970

ursula@probeauty.co.za

Accounts manager Vanessa de Almeida 011 781 5970

vanessa@probeauty.co.za

Operations manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970

barbara@probeauty.co.za

Marketing manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Social media and marketing Ilia Zolas 011 781 5970

Ilia@probeauty.co.za

Sales admin assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Printers Paper Street Print

Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on twitter and facebook

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

011 493 1379

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

UJ lecturer completes Masters in Somatology Debbie Campbell, Head of the Somatology Department at the University of Johannesburg, recently completed her Masters in Somatology at the University of Johannesburg with a thesis entitled “The perceived proficiency of newlqualified somatologists in using electrical equipment in industry”. This study was focused on the industry’s rapid advancement in the use of technology to address physical concerns of clients in terms of addressing the visible signs of skin ageing,

Imbalie Beauty underlines positive outlook The Imbalie Beauty Group’s revenue rose by 14.1% to R34.9m, which reflects an increase of R4.3m on the group’s 2011 results during the same period. An increase in system-wide sales revenue for the interim period, taking systemwide sales to R99.1m, was also reported.

Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty, maintains that the key to Imbalie Beauty’s success lies in the support and vision it lends to its franchisees: “Realising the full potential of our diversified offering means achieving clear differentiation of our main salon brands while continuously presenting a modern, fresh look that encapsulates the brand, Project Facelift has provided the perfect platform from which we have refreshed our current franchises while keeping the essence of each brand intact.”

Colyn believes firmly in driving innovation and marketing, the

latest example being the introduction of stateof-the-art hair removal and skin rejuvenation technology into Placecol Skin Care Clinics. “We have also expanded our consumer-driven focus through the introduction of the Placecol Care Loyalty Programme,” says Colyn. These core group values continue to attract new “owner-operators”.

While the group has many new franchise opportunities currently on offer, its commitment to its franchisees demands prudence when opening new stores, in order to ensure sustainable franchisee profitability.

issues around centimetre reduction, cellulite and other aspects.

In South Africa, the Somatology curricula vary between public and private higher education institutions. Even more diversity has been noted within the private Somatology higher education providers. The purpose of this study was to establish the perceived proficiency of newly qualified nationally and/ or internationally accredited graduates in using electrical equipment currently used

in the modern health and skincare industry.

The results of this study concluded that the graduates from selected specified nationally and/ or internationally accredited private higher education institutions, did not deem themselves to be proficient in the use of modern electrical equipment. This sentiment was supported by their employers in the health and skincare industry, and verified by the lecturers who facilitate their learning during their two-year qualification.

L’Oréal conducts research into African women’s skin L’Oréal Research and Innovation, the research and development arm of the L’Oréal Group, has just completed a landmark study of African women’s skin, using state-of-the-art skin analysis equipment that was specially brought to South Africa for the study.

This new research promises to unlock how skin colour, and women’s personal perception of their skin, influences their expectations from skin care and cosmetic products.

“Several studies have been done looking at the differences in skin

according to ethnic groups.

These studies have dealt with quantitative parameters to assess the age, lines or secretion of sebum of the skin. Yet little research has focused on the perception of skin colour and the way in which subtle nuances of the skin in various ethnic groups influence women’s choice of products,” explains Jason Eason, scientific director, L’Oréal South Africa.

A better understanding of the needs and expectations of women of different origins is essential for developing suitable product ranges.

As such, L’Oréal Research and Innovation will use the research findings to guide it in formulating products designed specifically for the South African market.

The study also aims to evaluate how different factors affect the properties of the skin. “Skin characteristics vary with age, ethnic origin and a person’s geographical and cultural environment. Better knowledge of these elements via a systematic research approach is essential for developing cosmetic and skin care products that effectively meet the needs of women’s skin,” Eason adds.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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In brief

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NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Services Seta challenged to improve skills The Department of Higher Education and Training (DHET) faces the huge challenge of overcrowding in the small postschooling sector in South Africa

■ LTI partner takes first prize: Dr Katerina Tsvietkova, business partner of Derek Terry of Lilian Terry International, won first prize for two of her topics at a European Medical Conference, namely Homeopathic Aromatherapy – method with proven effectiveness and The Potential of Homeopathic Correction for Metabolic Syndrome. This event was held at the department of the Ministry of Health in Kiev, Ukraine, in November last year, and was attended by more than 1000 medical practitioners from various European countries.

■ Thalgo partners with Aurore Asso: The partnership between Thalgo and highly ranked free diver, Aurore Asso, was born of an encounter based on common goals that both parties uphold – to raise awareness of the need to protect the Earth’s oceans and their riches.

As free diving requires an intensive physical and mental preparation process, Asso relies on the benefits of Thalgo’s marine treatments in preparing for and recovering from her dives.

■ New business growth: Spa & Salon Solutions has moved its premises to 71 11th Street Parkmore.

Owner, Karen Ellithorne has expanded her current business offering to include Post Graduate training courses for the aesthetic industry. This new addition falls under the company name: AesthetiMed. The Spa & Salon Solutions side of the business continues to supply Milk Solutions, a luxury professional pedicure line, along with a range of manicure and pedicure equipment and supplies.

Contact: 011 784 0376

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The Minister of Basic Education, Angie Motshekga stated that “while a notable improvement in the pass rate has been achieved, the announcement of the 2012 matric results has once again exposed South Africa to the realities facing a small post-schooling sector in South Africa; exposing huge incapacities in accommodating the over 120 000 students that qualify for university entry.

This presents a huge challenge for the Department of Higher Education and Training (DHET) in that it needs to ensure that there is no overcrowding at these universities; and no tragic stampedes, as witnessed in January last year.

“South Africa has 50 Public Further Education and Training (FET) Colleges nationally, consisting of over 264 campuses or teaching sites. Public FET Colleges offer Vocational Education and Training (VET) courses and qualifications at

Blade Nzimande

various levels of study for learners who have a Grade 9 pass/certificate, an NQF level 1 qualification or a Grade 12 certificate.”

At a press briefing in Pietermaritzburg on January 3rd, minister Blade Nzimande said: “Some of those who have come out of the schooling system may choose to find work. Those who wish to enter the world of work, or who need to increase their skills capabilities, should consider the options of learnerships, apprenticeships and skills programmes through any of the 21 Sector Education and Training Authorities (SETAs) which cover each economic sector in the country”.

According to the Services Sector Education and Training Authorities (SSETA's) administrator, Dr. Sihle Moo:

Angie Motshekga

“The SSETA is cognisant of its role as defined in the National Skills Development Strategy III, and, with other SETAs, is challenged to improve skills in all industries and target 1.2 million workers for certified on-the-job skills improvement programmes annually from 2013; we are also expected to facilitate and co-finance training for 10% of the workforce annually.

Crucially, we are aware that these figures must be skewed towards the rural poor and often marginalised of our country, women and the disabled. And so, as the SSETA, we have designed several projects that very deliberately seek to empower these groupings so that they too, become part of the skills revolution in our country and thus move into the mainstream of meaningful economic activity”.

Mobile app helps businesses reward clients on the go

Magnetic GMP Certified

Spa and salon businesses need to constantly interact with their customers in order to generate repeat business.

They also need to fully understand who their clients are and what they want, as well as reward them for their loyalty and support.

There is a mobile app on the market called MobiLoyalty, which is designed to help businesses reward their customer base quickly and easily. The app allows customers to check in at any time and instantly redeem their rewards using their cellphones. Loyalty programme options include Checkin, QR Code, Punch Card, and a rewards-sharing system, depending on customer needs.

Magnetic Nail Design was granted the ISO 22716: GMP for Cosmetic Industry certificate by the world-renowned French Certification Institute SGS. This places the company as one of the few manufacturers of cosmetic products in the Netherlands to be granted this certificate. This not only enables Magnetic to further develop its position in the European market, but also opens opportunities to register its products outside of the European Union and thus export to many other markets.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

The app can be customised to suit one’s business, enabling communication with clients on a regular basis through an instant messaging system. In this way, clients can be encouraged to participate in upcoming events, special deals, and social media activities. The app can be linked to a matching web page for subscriptions and rewards management and the business’ social media page for real-time posting.

The complete solution also allows one to track customer data, such as programme participation, campaign success, and customer demographics.

For more information visit www.mobiloyalty.co.za

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Calgel NEW PRODUCT INFORMATION Launch of new Calgel limited edition colours. Available while stocks last

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011 624 1101

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BUSINESS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Protect your investment Training is a major expense in tough times but there are fair ways to recoup the costs if therapists leave, writes Hellen Ward.

I’ve recently been asked a perplexing the loss of earnings while they are out of the salon. question from a salon manager – and if I Neither of these are insubstantial – and while they might had a pound for every time I’ve been asked not be taken into account by the employee, any time it I would be a very wealthy lady indeed. off the salon floor is always going to be an expense for At what point do you ask a member of staff to contribute the boss. towards the cost of their training?

The staff member in question is, by all accounts, plotting Choose to charge to leave at the end of her very expensive training course, While I believe product training should always be covered paid for by her unsuspecting salon manager. Wanting to by either the manufacturer or the salon, any training or benefit her career before she leaves, she intends to complete education a therapist undertakes that is not productthe course before handing in her notice. related and is offered to further their The salon owner has got wind of this and is skills or career is a different matter. It is you realise that looking to protect her investment. wise to ask the therapist to sign a training Once you’re a salon owner or manager educating your team agreement where the salon or spa owner you do tend to think differently. Years ago, is a real investment – is entitled to reclaim a proportion of the when I was a staff member myself, I would cost should the therapist leave within an and it’s not cheap. have seized the opportunity to attend agreed period of time after the training is any education that was offered to me completed. I ask my employees for this – and I doubt that my conscience would have cared whether and the agreement usually lasts for six months (depending the salon owner would be out of pocket if I decided to up on the cost of the training). For example, if the course sticks shortly afterwards. However, when the shoe is on the value is R6000 and the agreement is for six months, then other foot, you realise that educating your team is a real the employee would pay back R1000 per month should investment – and it’s not cheap. they leave before the six months is up. So if they left four months after finishing training, there would only be a R2000 deduction from their final salary (as I Sums of study have had the benefit of their extra knowledge In such difficult times, training and education for four months, but lost the final two). is often the first cost to be squeezed out of This is fair, and as long as both parties the budget; incorrectly in my opinion, as agree the value of the course and the investing in your team is always the best duration of the agreement then it’s entirely way of securing the health of your business reasonable. Some training courses attended in the future. But do we really want to by my employees cost upwards of R25 000, spend money only for other salon-owners so I need to know my investment in their to reap the benefits? Is that fair? future is secure, at least for a while.

I have a rule – any product knowNo reasonable employee would ledge training should always be disagree. at the expense of the salon owner There are many salon and never the employee. Training owners out there who make people to use the ranges you no investment in their team’s decide to stock has to be a education whatsoever, so, if cost you bear. Of course, most you’re a therapist in a salon employees think you don’t have where your boss wants to to pay for this training anyway further develop your skills it – and you shouldn’t, of course, is something to embrace – although some suppliers try to and be reasonable about. But get you to cough up just to learn make sure you remember to how to use the products they factor in that in letting you off want to sell you. But the average the salon floor is always going team member fails to factor to be a cost, and one that any in that even if the education is good boss will provided free of charge, you still want to be have to cover other associated compensated costs. You still have to pay their for. PB salary while they are on the course; and you have to stomach

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Keeping healthy Could a long healthy life be the norm in modern life?

Dr Gys du Plessis elaborates.

T

here are actually only four broad categories of causes that can make us unwell, ill or land us in a bed. These are: hereditary conditions, trauma, infections and chronic degenerative diseases.

Of these four conditions, the degenerative (ageing) diseases make up 90% of all patients in hospital beds today. Examples of such chronic conditions are heart and vascular disease, dementia and Parkinson’s disease, diabetes, arthritis, osteoporosis and cancer. Cancer has recently become the number one disease on the planet from which people suffer and die.

According to a just-published study in the British medical journal, the Lancet, the number of world cancer cases will rise by nearly 75% in 2030. Cancer is likely to be the “major cause of morbidity and mortality in the coming decades in every region of the world. What’s more, 90% of the increase in cases of cancer will be in developing countries”.

A ‘westernised’ diet – containing red and processed meats, refined grains, fats and sugars – has been connected to colon cancer; habits such as smoking and inactivity have also been connected to higher rates of cancer.

If this is the case in a society getting 40 years older than 100 years ago, what then helps to age us healthily and pass away at an advanced age?

Before we get into the finer details in future articles on how to extend your healthspan, I think it is appropriate to look at the proven broad, commonly shared reasons present in those who live, and have lived, long healthy lives.

These grassroots factors all share the same general effect on our bodies.

They prevent or reduce the amount and severity of stress hormone increases and the negative health effects they have on our human physiological system.

All the people who live long, regardless of sex or race, have one thing in common: none of them are overweight. A body mass index above 30 definitely has many serious consequences, preventing wellness in the long run.

Across the board, studies have confirmed that moderate aerobic exercise of an average of 150 minutes per week increases our chances for healthy longevity.

A diet high in refined sugars and carbohydrates, as well as trans fats, despite often being associated with obesity, in itself leads to accelerated ageing.

An amazing, yet common-sense reason for wellness and long living is that energy comes from feeling good, not from eating well or sleeping well.

All the people who live long, regardless of sex or race, have one thing in common: none of them are overweight.

Studies that have been done in the so-called blue zones on the planet, where many people aged 100 years plus (centagenarians) are leading good healthy active lives, proves that it does not lie in our genes, but very much in the way we live our lives.

In Okinawa near Japan much has been made of their tofu and fish-rich eating plan and ‘Hara Hachi bu’ – ‘eat until you are 80% full’. In Sardinia, near Italy, it has been thought to be the Mediterranean diet, red wine, coffee and siestas.

The Costa Ricans in Nicoya are thought to live extra-long healthy lives through hard water, minerals and bone strength. On the Greek island of Ikaria, scientists have tried again to identify diet, work ethic and marriage status, community living as well as clean air and water as the reason for healthy longevity, without impressive proof.

Again and again the most common outstanding thread in all centenarian communities studied seems to be having a reason to get up every morning and to live life with a purpose and with natural joy. We cannot fake happiness, and our mind and our bodies respond positively to an inner sense of purpose, direction and meaning. When we have a ‘why’ in our lives and in our thoughts, the hormonal stress system and all the cells of our bodies, will respond favourably, with an extended healthspan and beauty span, most often the case.

The golden thread at the end of the day leading us to healthy ageing remains that of reducing our stress on all levels and increasing our awareness, leading lives with meaning, purpose and a sense of direction. It is a life that we experience as making a positive difference in the big scheme of things. When the Dalai Lama was asked: “What thing about humanity surprises you the most?” he responded: “Man, because he sacrifices his health in order to make money; then he sacrifices his money to recuperate his health.” PB

If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question, please email the editor at sally@probeauty.co.za Two questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in Holistic, Integrative and Aesthetic Medicine. He has founded and led two Holistic Centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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SPA NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

SpaFinder Wellness forecasts top 10 spa and wellness trends for 2013 In its 10th annual trends report, SpaFinder Wellness forecasts top trends that will impact the spa and wellness industry and shape consumer experiences around the globe.

Here is a preview of the full report, including an analysis of factors influencing each trend and examples of early trend adopters.

1. Healthy hotels In 2013, we will see an explosion of new “wellness everywhere” hotel chains and environments becoming more mainstream. Established hotels are rebranding around wellness and it is not just about fitness.

2. The mindfulness massage A creative blend of two effective approaches, mindfulness and bodywork, this massage is a more profound experience that can help people to relax more deeply and quickly.

3. Earthing In 2013, we expect to see more earthing in spas. Whether in the formal sense – promoting direct contact with the earth’s electron-rich surface – or “nature grounding” – introducing more real nature into the experience.

4. Spa-genomics … telomeres and beyond The power of direct-toconsumer genomic testing lies in the potential to pinpoint which disease or issue could be forestalled by specific lifestyle changes.

The spa industry is a natural benefactor of this development, with the most profound breakthrough being telomeres – the only malleable part of DNA, which some studies are showing can be repaired by stress-reduction, exercise, sleep, healthier food and meditation.

5. Authentic Ayurveda and other ancient revivals Expect a more authentic global wellness experiences at spa and a more expansive exotic menu of wellness tradition, such as Ayurveda. There will also be more stress on traditional Turkish and Roman baths, more traditional Russian banyas and novel healing traditions.

6. Self-expression In 2013 “self-expression” will be most intently played out with colour. Expect more in-your-face shades for hair and face, more body art and more nail art with less bling and more nuance texture and designs.

7. Inclusive wellness The spa industry will shift focus from luxe-pampering to delivering wellness to persons of all ages and abilities. More people will look to spa to heal and keep bodies functional.

8. Label-conscious fitness From Yogalates and Piloxing to Crossfit and The Skinny Jean Workout, health and wellness have become the new luxury. Millions chase the “insider elite”, giving the fitness world a distinct fashion

world vibe, where consumers shop for the latest fitness craze just as they search for the newest designer purse.

9. Men: From barbers to “brotox” Dramatically more men are having more serious “work” done at medspas and plastic surgery offices. We can also expect far more spas to build out comprehensive, for-men “beauty” treatments – male waxing and man-geared cosmetic procedures.

10. Where the jobs are With the $2 trillion-plus panwellness market continuing to grow, spas simply cannot find enough people (with the right skills) to fill management and therapist positions. This need is expected to expand in the years ahead.

Winners of the World Spa & Wellness Awards announced The winners of the second annual World Spa & Wellness Awards were recently announced at a black-tie gala dinner at London Hilton on Park Lane. The One & Only Spa in Cape Town was recognised for its excellence by receiving the Spa of the Year in Africa award for the second consecutive year.

Setting the standard for honouring the best spa facilities and innovators globally, recognition from World Spa and Wellness Awards is high praise indeed, and spa manager Rosy Larsen and her team are understandably thrilled.

During the judging process, World Spa Awards invite top facilities around the world to participate, and a panel of expert judges select the finalists after a vigorous, audited judging process. The final winner is selected for each category following a visit from both an official judge and a mystery judge. The award is one of many global accolades that have been presented to the One & Only Spa since its inception just four years ago.

The spa also recently won a coveted SpaFinder Readers’ Choice Award for Favourite Spa in South Africa for the third consecutive year.

Charlie Thompson, chairman of the Spa Business Association and head of health and beauty at Virgin Active (left) presents the Spa of the Year in Africa award to Lee Barker (right) who collected the Award on behalf of the One & Only Cape Town.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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TO LOOK GOOD IS TO FEEL GOOD

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Distributed by futurethis consultancy - info@futurethis.co.za • 011 022 1658 • www.futurethis.co.za

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SPA FOCUS

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Embracing motherhood Committed to promoting female wellness through specialised treatments, Mommy Wellness Day Spa embraces every aspect of pregnancy and motherhood. Sally Harvey interviews owner Izelle Louw about her vision and future aspirations for the spa.

What made you decide to open a spa?

After experiencing a variety of spa treatments during my pregnancy, and always walking away disappointed, I decided to open a spa where moms could truly relax and be pampered.

I wanted to create an environment where pregnant women would be made to feel special, but, at the same time, treated as ‘normal’ spa visitors. You are not sick when you are pregnant, and should, therefore, still be able to experience the treatments you previously enjoyed, such as a proper massage or facial peeling treatment.

help them embrace and enjoy every aspect of motherhood from before they conceive right through to the time they become grandmothers. We at Mommy Wellness have a passion for women and mothers because motherhood is a full-time job, and, if mommy is not happy – her family is not happy.

INSIDE INFO: Opened: November 5 2012 Design director/Spa consultant: Iona van der Merwe Marketing manager: Izelle Louw Spa manager: Melissa Bright Number of therapists: 2 Brands stocked: Nimue, Mama Mio, MILK, Essie, Lycon wax

Where did you draw inspiration?

Number of treatment rooms: 4

My inspiration came from my own experience as a mom and from friends and families. I sat down and listened to their needs and tried to incorporate them into the spa.

Location: Durbanville – Cape Town

What was your overall vision?

What sets your spa apart?

My main focus is to inspire all women to better health. I want my spa to

We specialise in skin and body treatments for pregnant woman, we

Area of spa: 130m2 Contact: 021 976 3174

provide baby massage courses and have a play den area in the spa where children can be looked after while mom and dad are being pampered. >

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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SPA FOCUS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Can you describe the design in more detail, pinpointing a few focal points?

I wanted open spaces and light rooms. It was important to create a welcoming, home-away-from-home environment, where moms could relax and unwind.

The play den is definitely a great focal point of our spa. We also have a relax room that can only accommodate one couple at a time.

This enable couples to spend more quality time together in complete privacy. Hydro bath sessions can also be organised, followed by refreshments in the relaxation room.

What is your signature treatment?

We will be launching a Four Hand pregnancy treatment in the near future.

What do you feel is imperative in a spa environment in order to attain success?

You need to always go the extra mile, providing personal care and attention to every client. A client should never feel like they are just ‘one more client’.

Communication is very important.

You must really listen to what your client’s needs are – there are so many times they tell us, but we as therapists do not ‘hear’ them.

I strongly believe in a client card. I have walked into so many

My inspiration came from my own experience as a mom and from friends and families. spas where they go straight into the treatment room and start with the treatment, without asking me to complete a client card, and, in cases where I have completed a card, the therapist does not take the time to go through it with me.

What are your future plans and goals?

We would like to expand and open a branch in the southern suburbs.

We have had a few requests from clients. The rest? ... all I can say is: Watch this space! PB

Have you had any feedback from clients regarding your spa?

Clients love the personal touch we give them. We have had clients from overseas, and, in their two-week stay, they visited us twice. We have also had very good feedback on Facebook.

What professional products do you house and why?

We chose the Nimue brand because it enables us to offer a wider range of treatments, particularly for our moms-to-be. It is safe to use before, during and after pregnancy, and we really see amazing results with Nimue’s peeling systems, all of which, except the Chemibrasion, can be used safely during pregnancy.

We also stock Mama Mio, which is an amazing range for both moms and young women. The products really deliver results for our clients.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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TREATMENT REVIEW

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The science of blue cosmetics Phytomer, which boasts the only privately owned bio-technology library in Europe, has now exclusively discovered Extra Marine Filler (XMF).

Sally Harvey experiences the benefits of this youth-preserving ingredient.

X

MF is a 100% marine sugar that is naturally produced by a plankton micro-organism found off the coast of Brittany in the Iroise Sea. Thanks to a high-tech cultivation programme that mimics its natural production process, Phytomer researchers have been able to reproduce this marine sugar, and have incorporated it into a new-generation anti-ageing skincare line (referred to as blue cosmetics) and a 75-minute biotechnology spa treatment.

The youth-preserving properties of this key ingredient have a two-fold effect on the skin, forming a natural biofilm on the skin surface for an instant smoothing effect, reducing the depth of wrinkles within the first 15 minutes after application; and stimulating collagen and elastin for a denser, firmer skin support structure.

XMF works synergistically with seaside plant Morio Orchid to guard skin against free radicals and to help to reduce the natural process of glycation.

With this breakthrough technology in mind, I went to experience the professional spa treatment – Youth Revealing Pioneer Treatment. What I really enjoy about the Phytomer treatments is that they always start with a back massage and re-

mineralisation with self-heating marine mud. This prepares the body to better receive the benefits of the treatment being performed.

Along with the introduction of five new professional treatments with the star ingredients mentioned above, the facelift effects of this facial also stem from the exclusive manual massage techniques used.

Created in close collaboration with an osteopath, this relaxing, yet effective, pro-youth massage combines dry and oil massage, using various techniques and two original massage accessories to tone and smooth facial tissue and features.

A combination of two masks also adds to the luxurious experience of the treatment, particularly the inclusion of a mask specifically for lips. The second youth wax mask is also warming, soothing and hydrating on the skin, and contains all the active benefits of the new advanced ingredients.

The treatment finishes with a relaxing back massage, and, as my tensions ease away, so too do my wrinkles look less prominent and my skin firmer and more radiant – the best of both worlds. PB

Contact: A & I Importers 011 486 4904 or email: info@ai-importers.co.za

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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ĂŽ

online at www.probeauty.co.za

MALE GROOMING

Men

are from

Mars There is a growing consciousness among men concerning their appearance, which has led to an increase in male spa visits. Dineo Makobane focuses on the progression of this emerging market.

T

he demographics in spas have changed during the last several years in line with an increased male buy-in. According to the International Spa Association, men now make up nearly a third of all spa-goers. A global market research group, Mintel, has found that men between the ages of 18 to 34 are increasingly making use of spa treatments. Men now comprise on average between 11-15% of the spa customer base and the numbers are constantly on the rise.

Evolution of male spas According to senior spa therapist, Gunther Dippenaar from SproutQuantum Aesthetics and Spa, spa buy-in has over the last five years increased dramatically, as men are becoming aware and conscious of grooming and the therapeutic benefits that spas have to offer. Men are learning that spas can deliver rejuvenating services that will improve their quality of life.

Nolo Tobakeng from Zorgvliet Spa says that men have changed their views about spa treatments >

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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MALE GROOMING

increase, as men seek to retain a youthful and appealing look,” she says. Sonette Donker from Dermalogica notes that the increase in information in the media about male grooming has created greater awareness an added bonus to spas, clinics, and salons that offer such services for men.

altogether, and that this signifies that they are more alert and have a better understanding about their health and wellbeing. “This has contributed to the increase of retail sales and percentages of male spa visitors,” she says.

Research has also shown that the desire to look and feel good among men has had the added benefit of teaching them that treatments can be the first pit stop to improved wellness.

Room for growth

Attracting the market A well-thought out design not only opens doors, but also promotes a positive aura and creates a feeling of warmth and energy. Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Consultants believes that clean lines void of clutter and frills will attract male customers.

When it comes to men the interior will help position the spa as a necessity rather than a luxury. In Dippenaar’s opinion, male treatment rooms are essential. “This gives a space in which they can feel comfortable,” he says.

Décor that incorporates stainless steel, leather, and wood can also add to creating a sanctuary specifically for men.

Men are learning that spas can deliver rejuvenating services that will improve their quality of life.

Rising trends in male treatments Research has shown that there is greater insight regarding cosmetic treatments among men. Botox injection has gained popularity, as men find that it can be used to smooth frown lines as well as soften wrinkles.

In relation to more spa-specific

online at www.probeauty.co.za

treatments, Christine Wild from Babor explains that the location of a spa is the ultimate factor that determines what kind of treatments are booked and that generally men prefer treatments with physical effects.

“Anti-aging treatments are on the

With the concept of male grooming continuing to mature in European and Asian countries, there are a certain percentage of men that are following a traditional grooming regime, which was previously more femalespecific. This is because they are more open to improving their physical appearance, and, through technology, are better able to educate themselves on the benefits of treatments available.

Jacqui Faucitt of RegimA says that men are welcoming the new services and products that are now at their disposal: “In the past they were limited to the barber shop down the road; with spas and salons tailoring their services to meet their needs, there is far greater variety and room for growth in this market.”

There is also an increase in salons and spas being operated by men, and consumers being treated by male therapists worldwide. Dippenaar, who has designed his spa to specifically attract male guests, has witnessed growth in this market, with 95% of his clients being male. He predicts that in the coming years there will be an equal percentage of men and women who visit spas and salons. PB

Treatment ideas that spas can offer men The Golfers Bunker/Tennis Workout The Groomsmen Day Total Skin Fitness Workout Executive Aromatherapy Stress Buster Sports Massage Treatments Anti-Acne Action Treatment Express Handy Manicure Foot Fitness Programme Travellers’ Hot Stone Therapy

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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MALE GROOMING

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Step into action Professional aftercare for men.

RegimA About Face Anti-ageing Day & Night Balm has an anti-ageing, repairing and firming effect, helping to smooth expression lines and stimulate collagen synthesis. It helps to protect the skin against the harmful ageing effects of sun exposure, and also contains a reflective filler, which gives the optical illusion of wrinkle removal while eliminating shine.

011 615 2869

Environ Shaving Oil contains Vitamins C and E for their antioxidant and moisturising properties, as well as Tea Tree oil, renowned for its soothing, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. A low dose of Vitamin A assists in maintaining a healthy skin. This light gel can be applied to either wet or dry skin, does not clog the razor blade, and washes off easily.

011 268 5711

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

Nimue Man Treatment Aftershave has a cooling, soothing effect on the skin after shaving. Its lightweight, fast-absorbing formula also tones, revitalises and moisturises, and features a clean masculine fragrance for all-day freshness.

086 006 4683

Ericson Laboratoire Micro-Collagen Lifting is a targeted eye care product for men.

Micro-Collagen, its nourishing active principle, contributes towards filling in wrinkles and smoothing the skin almost instantly. It also has an immediate antifatigue effect and restores eye radiance and freshness.

072 302 2879

Dr Gobac Wash is a creamy foam cleanser that rinses off easily with water. While oat amino acids act as a conditioning cleanser, sodium cocoyl, derived from coconut oil, provides dense and luxurious foam leaving the skin feeling revitalised and healthy. This product also has a toning action on the skin, cleansing and balancing the skin’s pH in one easy step.

011 784 2422

Phytomer Rasage Perfect Shaving Mask is a 2-in-1 treatment. It can either be used as a shaving product for a smooth shave, reducing irritations while softening the hair, or once or twice a week as a moisturising and detoxifying mask for instant radiance and softness.

011 486 4904

MALE GROOMING

Thalgo Shaving Gel is an antiirritant foaming gel which helps the razor glide smoothly over the skin for a close, yet gentle, shave. Its fresh formulation helps to revitalise the skin, and assists in achieving a faster, more effective result.

011 880 3850

the global leader in eyelash extensions

Optiphi Dermintense Activegel is a lightweight gel serum designed to activate collagen and elastin production, build the skin matrix, and protect the skin against seven signs of aging. Its effective delivery system draws high concentrations of actives into the skin without leaving any residue.

This treatment can also doubleup as an eye serum for targeted action on lines and wrinkles.

012 667 6244

The Xtreme Lashes 2-Day Training Workshop Pevonia Easy-Glide Shaving Emulsion facilitates the razor’s glide for a closer, smoother shave. Its hydro-soluble formula adheres softly to coat the skin for a non-sensitising experience.

011 314 2799

• Our exclusive programme is designed and created by Xtreme Lashes, USA, to promote full comprehension of the eyelash extension concepts and techniques.

• Xtreme Lashes Eyelash Extensions are for professional use only • We are the preferred choice of celebrities, the press, media and consumers worldwide.

For further information, contact: Penny: 082 312 0564 info@xtremelashes.co.za www.xtremelashes.co.za Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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Free tickets to beauty and hair industry profesionals

Pre-register NOW at www.probeauty.co.za Please note: No children under 16 will be allowed into the show.

2013 durban bring Beauty to Life...

• • • • •

Source leading brands and suppliers in your industry Discover the latest products and equipment for 2013 Network with the leaders in the industry Find out about the latest trends Save money with exclusive show offers

durban Save the date: 19 - 20 maY 2013

durban international convention centre For more information contact Professional Beauty on 011 781 5970

www.probeauty.co.za

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN 2013

“ Let the beauty

of what you love be what you do. ”

As the only trade exhibition of its kind for the region, this is a must-visit for beauty professionals who want to be kept up to date with all that is happening in this progressive industry. Let’s see what some of the exhibitors have in store for you…

Calgel will be demonstrating its new shades, Nail Art Tip Gallery and Nail Art. The company will also be presenting its exciting education programmes.

American Piercing Systems will be demonstrating how ear-piercing can increase both income and foot traffic into one’s business. APS systems are very easy to use, hygienic and can be used for belly and nose-piercing, as well as earpiercing.

Aromatic Apothecary will be showcasing its range of massage oils, Roll-on relief, Scentsation and high-quality burners for the spa and salon market.

Babor will be presenting Dr Babor at the expo. Beauty professionals will be on hand to explain the synergy between medicine and nature while informing visitors about the unique skincare products within the Dr Babor range.

Chromogenex will be demonstrating i-Lipo - the latest in laser lypolysis, offering an effective means of achieving inch loss and body-contouring with no pain, needles and downtime. The company will also be showcasing Fusion SLR - an advanced system that restores the natural youthfulness and beauty of the skin and is completely safe and painless.

Ergon Medical will be launching its Pier Auge Anti-Ageing Skin Care programme as well as the Zero Series of Body Health > equipment.

Best Lasers will be showcasing Alma Lasers, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications.

BTL Medical will be showcasing the nonsurgical aesthetic machines for skin tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, fat dissolve and lymph drainage.

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBAN 2013

online at www.probeauty.co.za

2013 19 & 20 MAY

DURBAN

RegimA Skin Treatments will tempt the cosmeceutical palette with additions to its already extensive cosmeceutical range consisting of over 1000 products.

Vitaderm will be promoting its Radian-C Serum, containing the breakthrough Vitamin C ingredient AA2 as well as Revitalising Eye Gel with patented Eyeseryl peptide and hyaluronic acid. PB ESP Salon and Spa Software will be offering a full needs analysis and software demonstration which will guarantee you are getting the best software management solution for your salon or spa.

Hitech Lasers’ MD will be doing a demonstration on the use of Ultra Pulse fractional laser for Scar revision. The company will be exhibiting two leading aesthetic products, namely the M22 IPL and the Lightsheer Duet.

Lamprobe will be offering free lectures on the identification and removal of minor skin lesions on Sunday and Monday at 12:00 and 15:00. A live demonstration will be offered by Janine Thomson on the vascular, sebaceous and hyperkeritinised lesion removal.

Medilase will exhibit an aesthetic product portfolio of four Viora systems, which offer solutions for permanent hair reduction, skin rejuvenation, fine line and wrinkles, acne clearance, vascular and pigmented lesions, as well as feature RF tightening, body-contouring and cellulite treatment; pain-free, needle-free mesotherapy; and diamond peel microdermabrasion.

Nailsforu will be promoting its Go Lac UV gel polish range, as well as its Black & White nailsforté conscious nail products and accessories.

Visit www.probeauty.co.za Don’t forget to book online for free entry to Durban’s Professional Beauty event.

Hitech Lasers

Lilian Terry Spa and Wellness Products will be introducing the Tramino complex – this enhances the regeneration of bones and ligaments after an operation or medical trauma.

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Medilase

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

The ORIGINAL everlasting manuicure Bio Sculpture Gel, the original everlasting manicure,is a chip free, salon treatment that cures to a strong yet flexible, glossy finish and last for up to three weeks.

The damage free, nourishing treatment will protect and enhance your natural nails and is available in over 150 colours.

As the original nail gel, Bio Sculpture Gel is tried, tested and proven.

All Bio Sculpture Gel in new packaging are now LED curable.

For reference to your nearest distributor call 0861 246435 or visit www.biosculpture.com

Science. Results.

Trust.

GentleMax Pro®

Integrated Aesthetic Treatment System Combining the Most Powerful

Alexandrite & ND:YAG Lasers in 1 Box

Indications

• Hair Reduction • Hemangiomas

• Rosacea • Pigmented Lesions • Beard Bumps (PFB) • Facial & Spider Veins

Faster

Enhanced Intuitive Touch Screen

An enhanced 2 Hz repetition rate enables you to treat more patients, faster.

Redesigned to help you more easily select and save treatment parameters.

Dual Wavelength Delivery System

Variable Pulse Duration

Single Lightweight ergonomic handpiece delivering both 755 nm and 1064 nm wavelengths for ultimate treatment convenience.

Microseconds to milisecond pulse durations provides superior results and safety when treating pigmented and vascular lesions on various skin types.

Multiple Spot Sizes 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, and 18 mm spot sizes are anatomically appropriate and offer greater fluence delivery capabilities.

DCD or Air Cooling—It’s Your Choice Choose from either the Air Cooling Compatible ™ (ACC ™ ) or the cryogen-based Dynamic Cooling Device ™ (DCD ™ ) cooling system, which saves time, is operator independent, scales with fluence and provides consistent protection of the epidermis.

λ2 Specialty Delivery System™ GentleMax Pro also offers a dual wavelength Specialty Delivery System option with 1.5 / 3 / 3x10 mm spots for vascular and pigmented lesions.

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae (PFB)

Hair Removal

Before

• Leg Veins • Diffuse Redness

After

Before

Leg Veins

Facial Veins

After

Before

After

Before

Skin Rejuvenation

After

Before

Advanced Technology. True Power. Real Results.

Proudly Distributed by : aesthetic solutions Contact: Ian Ziervogel 082 551 5938 Johan Smit 083 409 6239 info@sternlaser.co.za www.sternlaser.co.za

After

Î

HAIR REMOVAL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Powerful performance The Candela GentleMax Pro is a dual-wavelength laser platform that offers high performance in terms of speed, efficacy and safety. Sally Harvey experiences the permanent hair reduction capabilities of this system.

T

he Candela GentleMax Pro can effectively treat all skin types by combining the most powerful 755nm Alexandrite laser for hair reduction on people with fair skin with the 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser for use on those with dark or tanned skin.

Optimal efficacy is reliant on the absorption of light by melanin. This is where the Alexandrite laser is documented to absorb the most amount of energy at 755nm. The Candela GentleMax Pro also features an 18mm spot size, which facilitates a deeper penetration of light and decreases overall treatment time – in fact my one leg took less than 10 minutes.

As my skin is exceptionally fair, the Alexandrite laser was administered at a shorter pulse duration of 3ms – this is more effective by far, particularly in terms of targeting finer hairs, but it can be more painful. In my opinion, it was nothing I couldn’t handle. Areas over bones caused more of a twinge, but it wasn’t unbearable and didn’t bring tears to my eyes.

With the Candela GentleMax Pro Nd:Yag laser , the operator can adjust the pulse duration according to the thermal relaxation time of a structure.

In other words, the larger the diameter (coarseness) of the hair, the longer the thermal relaxation time, thus the longer the pulse duration required.

Most operators will use 10ms for the first couple of treatments before moving to a shorter pulse of 3ms.

The 20ms pulse duration is almost exclusively used for pseudo-follicular barbae.

The Alexandrite laser is documented to absorb the most amount of energy at 755nm.

Efficacy and safety is also reliant on fluence – the energy delivered per unit area (usually the spot size of the device) which has units of J/m2.

Increasing the fluence does achieve greater absorption of energy, which is particularly beneficial for those tougher, finer hairs. However, the operator always needs to judge the client’s skin type before determining an effective and safe fluence.

Another safety measure that improves the comfort for the client, and at the same time, enhances the result (as energy can be adjusted upwards more confidently), is an advanced Dermal cooling device (DCD) that provides much more predictable cooling than contact cooling, especially when using the device at speed like 2hz (18mm in diameter spot size at 2 shots per second).

One factor that Ingrid du Plessis, the skin laser practitioner at Laserderm who performed the treatment, kept on emphasising is the need for proper training, including a thorough knowledge of laser science. “A laser is an inanimate object. We think that this machine can think for itself, but that is really not the case, it is up to

the operator to understand how it functions in order to make the correct adjustments, and deliver optimal yet safe results,” she says.

Although clinical studies show improvement of up to 80-90% hair reduction, each client will respond differently, and Du Plessis therefore recommends that the client be told during consultation that results will vary from client to client. Six to eight treatments are usually recommended, again, depending on the person.

Typically most treatments are 4-6 weeks apart. Treatments on the trunk should be done at 8-10 week intervals and on extremities at 10-12 weeks.

The Candela GentleMax Pro can also treat sun spots, pigmentation, rosacea, facial telangiectasia, small facial capillaries, acne scarring, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. PB

Contact: Sternlaser on 083 409 6263 or 082 551 5938 or email: ian.ziervogel@googlemail.com

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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HAIR REMOVAL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Greater comfort Lightsheer Duet incorporates vacuum-assisted technology, increasing spot size for improved results, greater comfort and quicker treatment time. Sally Harvey steps into the client’s shoes to see what this permanent hair reduction treatment is all about.

T

he Lightsheer Duet includes two optimal wavelength 800nm diode hair removal systems on one platform. The LightSheer ET targets smaller areas (upper lip, chin, ankle and bikini areas) with a 9x9 spot size, fluence up to 100J/cm2, and a sapphire Chilltip for continuous contact cooling.

The Lightsheer HS, the treatment I experienced, is more suited to larger areas such as the back, shoulder, chest and legs. It makes use of vacuumassisted technology, which has a number of benefits. It draws the skin into the hand piece, thus stretching the dermis thin and pulling the hair follicle closer to the light source for more efficient delivery of laser energy. This, in turn, reduces the

fluency needed to achieve efficacy, assuring greater comfort and safety for the client.

Also, by reducing the density of the epidermis melanin, it minimises heat-induced damage to the epidermis and maximises the absorption of light by melanin in the hair and follicles. In addition, this technology increases the spot size to 22 x 35mm, which enables greater depth of penetration for improved absorption of energy at the target follicle.

The increased spot size, coupled with the fact that no conducting gel, anaesthetic or cooling is required, cuts down on treatment time

dramatically. In fact, it took minutes to complete one of my legs, and it is said that you can treat backs in 15 minutes.

In terms of the comfort of the treatment, I would have to say, as I said to the operator on the day, it feels like I am having a massage.

There is absolutely no pain, and this is due to the suction (a similar effect to pinching a person’s skin before administering and injection), and the system’s ability to reduce fluence and still achieve visible results. It is also interesting to note that the constriction of blood within the treatment area, due to the vacuum used, further eliminates light absorption by competing chromosphores, another benefit for more targeted results.

Although excellent results have been seen after three treatments spaced four to six weeks apart, distributors Hitech Lasers advocate 6-8 treatments, as results vary depending on skin and hair colour and hormonal influences. This system has been FDA-cleared and CE-marked for all skin types, including 5-6 and tanned skin. PB

Contact: Hitech Lasers on 012 349 1250 or email: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

A Trusted Path to Superior Outcomes Pain Free Permanent Hair Reduction Diode Laser Permanent Hair Reduction for ALL Skin Types including Dark Skin

LightSheer

®

Most used hair removal technology in the world.

LightSheer DUET ®

TM

Pain-free Hair Reduction.

Reduce treatment time up to 75% and increase revenue.

LightSheer ® DUET™ a revolutionary Hair Removal system with 2 hand pieces to ensure patient comfort: •

One hand piece with 9 x 9 mm cooled crystal tip to treat smaller and bony areas. This is universally the most used and effective system for hair removal.

•

New HighSpeed hand piece with a 22 x 35 mm footprint (largest in market) and with integrated vacuum assist technology for treating large areas such as back and legs.

IPL for Hair Reduction and Skin Rejuvenation

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®

•

Exact, consistent, reproducible results - every single time

•

Results in a single session comparable to 3-5 treatments using other technologies

•

Thousands of proprietary, pre-programmed treatment parameters

•

One hand piece for all IPL treatments

For information on the full range of Aesthetic Systems supplied

by Hitech Lasers please visit: www.hitechlasers.co.za Tel: 012 349 1250 Email: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za

Powered by

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IPL

Finance and Rental options available

Î

HAIR REMOVAL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Heat and light By combining optical energy with radiofrequency, the technology behind the Syneron Elos Plus allows for quicker, safer permanent hair reduction. Sally Harvey gets first-hand experience of how the system works

S

yneron offers three systems for hair removal: the eStyle – combined Intense Pulse Light (IPL) and Radio Frequency (RF), offering permanent hair reduction, skin rejuvenation and skin tightening; eLase – combined diode laser and RF for permanent hair reduction; and Elos Plus – an upgradable multi-application platform for a variety of in-demand treatments.

–s All systems incorporate the elo combination of optical energy (laser or light) and bi-polar radio frequency for safe and effective permanent hair reduction; the choice of system is merely dependent on the business’s current consumer demand for certain services.

I experienced a permanent hair reduction treatment with the Elos Plus using the 810nm diode laser applicator. There are two modes available on the hair removal handpiece for treatment flexibility. The pulse mode, which is recommended for smaller areas such as the upper lip, delivers up to three pulses per second.

You feel a slight twinge with minimal discomfort. The motif mode, on the other hand, is painless. The area does heat up slightly but other than that you don’t feel anything. This mode is used for larger areas, delivering 10 pulses per second – making treatment time far faster. It is said that you can do a full back in as little as 30 minutes.

In terms of safety, the incorporation of RF allows the system to use less optical light. This application has, therefore, gained FDA approval for safe use on all skin types and hair types.

The dual heating via optical and RF energies also raises target temperature while maintaining epidermal protection. The RF current used is localised in the area between the electrodes, and its thermal effect is dependent on tissue impedance. In other words, every time the system delivers a pulse, the RF will measure the skin’s impedance and will give

In terms of safety, the incorporation of RF allows the system to use less optical light. This application has, therefore, gained FDA approval for safe use on all skin types and hair types.

the operator a reading on screen. In this way, the operator can monitor whether energy levels are too high or too low for added safety.

What’s more, RF is colour-blind, and, as such, cannot detract, resulting in less energy loss (30-40% better absorption), and an improved result.

Other than making the treatment more comfortable for the client, a cooling tip enables a 1mm deeper penetration depth compared to units that do not

feature cooling. It also forces the RF into the skin for increased resistance.

Both these factors lead to better destruction of the hair follicle.

In relation cost, the system is very economical, with the permanent hair reduction hand piece lasting four million pulses before it needs to be replaced. The cost per pulse has been calculated at 5c per pulse.

Radiant Healthcare, distributor of Syneron, advises 6-8 treatments for the best results. In most cases a package of 4 treatments, spaced 4-6 weeks (face) or 8-10 weeks (body) apart, suffices. This can be followed by two maintenance treatments if need be. PB

Contact: Radiant Healthcare on 011 794 8253 or email: radiant@worldonline.co.za

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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HAIR REMOVAL

online at www.probeauty.co.za

It’s all in the pulse Alma Lasers Harmony Lite features an advanced type of IPL – Advanced Florescence Technology for increased energy, less pain, and extended lifetime of the hand-piece. Sally Harvey sees what this new system can do.

A

lma Lasers Advanced Florescence Technology increases emission and penetration while delivering Equally Distributed Fluence, which means that every pulse has uniform energy density across the entire output face. This continuous square-shaped pulsing at moderate peak power throughout the entire pulse ensures repeatable results and greater safety.

Harmony Lite’s modular design features multiple interchangeable modules, allowing one to deliver a variety of cosmetic solutions from one unit. The system is upgradeable, so one can add new technologies as and when the demand arises. Depending on the hand-pieces purchased, it can treat conditions such as pigmentation, acne vulgaris, vascular and pigmented lesions, muscle and joint pain, and scarring. It also offers skin rejuvenation and has an LED module for the treatment of various skin conditions.

Permanent hair reduction is performed using the SHR Pro module. Harmony Lite is the only IPL platform with a built-in Pro option. Basically what this means

AFT Pulse Shape

TouchScreen Color User Interface

is that the IPL hand-pieces can operate in both stationary and InMode modes, eliminating the need to purchase separate hand-pieces.

I asked to experience both modes – the stationary being performed on my upper lip and chin (best for smaller areas), and the In-Mode on my underarms. Other than a slight heating of the area, the In-Mode was virtually painless. The stationary mode, on the other hand gave a slight pang every time it pulsed. Integrated contact cooling provides for more comfort, safety and better results. No anaesthesia or numbing gel needed to be applied.

This system also provides greater variability in selecting individual treatment parameters and adapting

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

to different types of skin, making it possible to treat all pigmented hair on all skin types, including tanned skin. The touch-screen colour user interface clearly shows a grid-based method of treatment for enhanced results and easier sessions.

The number of sessions required is dependent on the skin type. Best Laser, distributor of Alma Lasers recommends six to ten treatments with intervals of four weeks (for small areas, such as the bikini) and six weeks (larger areas) in between treatments. PB

Contact: Best Lasers on 012-998 9844 or e-mail: info@bestlasers.co.za

Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions

• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations

Virtually Painless Greater Versatility

Enhanced Outcomes

Skin Rejuvenation

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Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening

Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions

The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair

The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin

Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation

Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: +27 (0) 86 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za

G COMIN N SOO courses

On line end from the le b a il a v a 2013 of March

Sally Durant Training and Consultancy In association with Karen Ellithorne

"Excellence is an art won by training..."

Aristotle

Practical Courses

YOUR INVITATION TO AN EXCLUSIVE TRAINING EVENT

> Non-surgical blemish removal – Advanced Electrolysis

On Monday 8th April 2013

> The Physiology and Practice of Micro Needling > The Physiology and Practice of Chemical Skin Peeling

Sally Durant will be presenting a CPD Certified one day seminar on the following:

Knowledge Based Courses

“The Hormonal Influences on Skin Condition and Advanced Treatment Approaches”

> Advanced Skin Science

“On-line Training - A new flexible approach to Professional development for the skin care clinician”

> Investigative Consultation & Advanced Skin Assessment > The Art of Skin Resurfacing

Early booking is recommended as places will be limited.

> The Skin Ageing Process & Regenerative Treatments > Photoageing & Pigmentation Irregularities of the Skin > The Causes, Development & Treatment of Acne Vulgaris > An Introduction to Medical Aesthetics – Working Knowledge for the Non-Practitioner > Nutrition and the Skin > Modern Cosmetic Science for the Skin Care Clinician > Treating Skins of Colour

Sally has built an international reputation for her expertise in skin health and clinical aesthetics. She is engaged by many high profile corporations and works alongside some of the top clinical professionals, dermatologists and cosmetic scientists.

Last year she appointed Karen Ellithorne of Spa and Salon Solutions to be the sole distributor of her advanced training programmes and online courses in South Africa. This event is to be held in Johannesburg and is ideal for all professionals working in the skin care industry.

> Dermatology for the Aesthetic Practitioner > Understanding & Treating Hypersensitve Skin & Rosacea > The Theory & Practice of Laser Hair Removal – A User Friendly Guide

Be the best that you can be...

Unlock your potential

* Course availability will be phased in between January and June 2013

NO TIME OUT OF WORK

l

NO TRAVEL EXPENSES

l

NO ACCOMODATION COSTS

DATE: Monday 8th April 2013 VENUE: The Forum l The Campus, Wanderers Building 57 Sloane Street, Bryanston, Johannesburg DELEGATE FEE: R 995

l

NO PRE SET ATTENDANCE DATES

For Seminar Booking and Forthcoming Course Dates Contact Karen Ellithorne: karen@spaandsolutions.co.za Tel: 011 784 0376 | www.medicaltrainingsolutions.co.za

ĂŽ

INGREDIENT WATCH

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Understanding

retinol Retinol is a product which no beauty therapist or aesthetic practitioner committed to remedial skin care should be without.

Sally Durant explains why.

R

etinol has a versatility and efficacy which addresses the most prevalent and persistent skin conditions of concern to our clients, including acne, ageing, pigmentation, irregular texture and scarring. It is, however, a product to be respected and used with care, so a full understanding of its nature and application protocol is essential to avoid adverse skin reactions.

Retinol comes from a family of compounds called retinoids, which are derived from Vitamin A and they have been used medically in both oral and topical forms over the last century to treat a variety of dermatological conditions. Indeed there is evidence that retinoids are efficacious in the treatment of over 125 skin diseases and disorders. These include acne, postacne scarring, psoriasis, ichthyosis and, more recently, for addressing the ageing process and photo-damage of the skin.

The benefits of Vitamin A on acne skins were first discovered in the 1920s and subsequently Nobel Prizewinning research led to the structure of Retinol being determined in 1931.

In 1943, Retinol was first synthesised and became commercially available,

both in its pure form of All Trans Retinoic Acid (ATRA), now being available in varying strengths, and in the less potent derivative forms, such as retinyl palmitate. Equally modern retinols are now very refined, having undergone molecular modification to be more photostable and less sensitising. While the stronger forms of pure retinol over 1% strength remain prescription-only medicines, the advent of cosmeceutical retinol and its milder cosmetic forms, such as retinyl palmitate, now make this potent product available to the skin care therapist.

So how does retinol work?

The natural actions of Vitamin A in the body include the control of growth, cellular proliferation and differentiation and to promote homeostasis, which is the regulation of the body’s natural internal environment, so maintaining a healthy balance. It also controls apoptopsis, the term given to programmed cell death as in keratinisation In 1987, All Trans Retinoic Acid was discovered to be a hormone, which acts as a regulator of cellular activity. It is thus able to rebalance

Below: Retinol structural form.

and correct certain aspects of skin dysfunction – for example in an acne skin it slows down cell turnover and epidermal keratosis responsible for comedogenasis, whilst, conversely, in an ageing skin it will speed up a sluggish cycle of cell renewal.

The effects of retinol are therefore deeply impacting for corrective skin care. Looking first to its effects on the epidermal tissue: retinol regulates epidermal cell renewal by normalising DNA activity in the keratinocytes and so rebuilds or redefines the epidermis.

The stimulation of cell renewal in the basal layers fortifies the barrier function of the epidermis making it more resilient to environmental aggression and so less reactive, while at the same time increasing surface desquamation to give a smoother and more refined skin texture. This can result in light sheathing of the skin in the initial stages of treatment, but >

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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with continued use this side effect will subside.

Still on the surface epidermal tissue, retinol will compact the layers of dead skin cells in the Stratum Corneum, giving the skin surface a firmer and younger appearance with the smoothing of fine epidermal lines. In addition, in photo-damaged skin, retinol will help to break down superficial melanin staining in the skin to give relief from hyperpigmentation irregularities.

In the dermis retinol is both preventative and corrective to the degradation of the dermal matrix.

It inhibits the action of the Matrix Metalloproteinases, which are enzymes stimulated by sunlight and responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin, and, at the same time, retinol will stimulate the new synthesis of collagen by the fibroblast cells, so firming the skin, improving tone and reducing dermal wrinkles.

With regards to its specific action on the oily and acne skin, retinol will regulate the production of sebum, refine open pores, and, through its collagen regenerating effect, will address acne scarring. Equally its ability to reduce pigmentation is useful in the treatment of post inflammatory marking of the skin in the darker Fitzpatrick skin types.

Absorption into the skin The question of skin absorption of a product must always be understood if you are to be able to explain the benefits of using a product to today’s discerning and well-informed client.

Retinoic acid is a lipid soluble molecule, and, as such, has an affinity with the skin enabling its absorption both through the lipid bilayer structure in the epidermis or via the pilo-sebaceous unit. However, to increase its absorption capability, retinol is often liposomeencapsulated, which means that the retinol molecule is wrapped in a lipid ‘bubble’. This encapsulation increases its permeability into the skin while at the same time also increasing the stability of the product and providing a time release mechanism whereby the ‘bubbles’ burst their contents into the deeper layers of the skin one by one, in a similar way to a child blowing soap bubbles. This has the effect of reducing skin sensitisation, which is of benefit for most people as pure retinol is, by nature, irritating to the skin and during the first phases of its use can cause erythema, flaking and sensitivity, especially to sunlight.

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INGREDIENT WATCH

online at www.probeauty.co.za

retinol regulates epidermal cell renewal by normalising DNA activity in the keratinocytes and so rebuilds or redefines the epidermis.

Skin sensitivity The consideration of this normal reaction is essential when the skin care practitioner is advising clients on the use of retinol in their home care regimen. Managing the client’s expectation of slight redness and mild peeling will prevent them from worrying that their skin is adversely reacting to the product. However, equally this reaction should not persist beyond a couple of weeks’ use, and should not involve extreme redness, stinging or burning. In such a case an adaptation to the frequency of use or the termination of the treatment must be implemented.

Retinol is not for everyone.

That having been said, if a client does not show a skin reaction it does not mean that the product is not working.

In terms of the efficacy of retinol, a research study was carried out by Griffiths et al in 1995, which showed that the benefits of retinol on photo-ageing are not relative or dependent on the degree of redness and irritation. Thus with well-tailored treatment, results can be achieved with minimal skin irritation.

Gradual treatment plan It is vital to the success of a retinol treatment programme that a regime of gradual introduction of the product is followed to avoid over-treatment and extreme skin reactions. This is particularly the case when using pure

retinol products of strengths from 0.1% up to, but not including 1% (remember that at 1% pure retinol is pharmaceutical in strength and for medical use on prescription only).

Sometimes a manufacturer’s statement of percentage can be misleading stating retinol percentage strengths of 4%, 8%, and 12% for example. These levels are not representative of the total percentage strength of the pure retinol contained in the product and precise information as to the formulation is needed. It may also be that a derivative of retinol has been used which might well be more suited to your client – derivatives such as retinyl palmitate which is efficiently absorbed due to its combination with the free fatty acid palmitic acid present naturally in the epidermal lipids. This formulation will be efficacious while at the same time is less sensitising to the skin.

The key to giving the correct advice to your client in the use of their retinol product is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. As a rule of thumb, however, when using pure retinols a client should be advised to commence at lower strengths such as 0.3%. The product is applied two to three times a week at night only and this frequency is gradually increased over the following weeks to between four to seven times weekly, depending on the client’s >

retinol is, by nature, irritating to the skin and during the first phases of its use can cause erythema, flaking and sensitivity, especially to sunlight.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

INGREDIENT WATCH

Retinol is significantly photosensitising, and without the appropriate sun protection, issues of hyperpigmentation will occur. tolerance and skin reaction. The erythema and flaking should subside with the first two weeks of treatment.

Throughout their course of retinol treatment a client must wear a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF50 and preferably also use an antioxidant serum to protect from harmful ultra violet rays. Retinol is significantly photosensitising, and without the appropriate sun protection, issues of hyperpigmentation will occur.

Courses of retinol treatment may be approached as a pulse therapy to provide perhaps two courses of three months’ duration per year. This is ideal for the client wishing to address mild issues of ageing and sun damage or to act as a maintenance programme for healthy skin regeneration. If the condition of the skin is more progressive or severe, such as acne skins, advanced ageing and irregular texture or scarring, then the client may progress to higher percentage strengths, within the cosmeceutical parameter, and longer courses of treatment up to six months at a time may be indicated. However, always be guided by the individual skin condition and its reactions to treatment and consider that best practice is to give the skin a rest period between treatment programmes of strong retinols, to avoid over treatment and compromising of the epidermal barrier function.

Limitations Finally, having assessed your client’s skin to be indicated to retinol therapy, do, of course, consider its limitations.

It is unsuitable for any client who is pregnant, trying to become pregnant or breast-feeding, due to its ability to enter the blood stream and its potentially harmful effects on the unborn child. Always refer to your productspecific instructions in relation to using retinol alongside chemical or enzymatic exfoliation, microdermabrasion or laser resurfacing treatment, as these treatments will become more aggressive if a retinol product has been used prior to these clinical applications. Having said this, retinol is extremely efficacious, within the appropriate protocols, in combination with clinical skin procedures it has been proven to improve the beneficial effects of skin-regenerative treatments such as fraxel or pixel laser, skin-needling and chemical peeling where manufacturer protocol allows.

In summary Retinol is the answer to many skin care concerns, which as beauty therapists we have previously been unable to address. It marks the welcome move of our industry into results-driven clinical skin treatment, whereby we can, with the right level of training and education, not only safely address the most prevalent and persistent skin complaints, but also look to provide ageing retardation and improve long-term skin health. PB

Sally Durant is the founder and director of Sally Durant Training and Consultancy which was founded in 2009 with the aim of raising the standard, and availability, of advanced clinical skin care training for both the beauty therapy and medical aesthetic sectors.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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skinchanger businesschanger!

Bio-Synthesis™ 4 LED colors

bt-accent™ 3 LED colors

LED

acne management age management rosacea

strategic 3 part skin energy system.

bio-therapeutic.co.za Bio-Therapeutic South Africa Juliette C, 509 V & A Marina Dock Road Cape Town 80011 | P: +2721 824 9029

ĂŽ

LED TECHNOLOGY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Light of Life LED light therapy is constantly evolving. Modern science has enabled us to realise the benefit that specific wavelengths and frequencies can have on the human body. David Suzuki discusses this phenomenal technology.

L

ight itself represents life, as most everything in our living world requires some form of light energy, directly or indirectly, to sustain life. It is what wakes us up in the morning, allows our food to grow, and energises our day. When the light is gone, our body instantly reacts, decompresses, and prepares itself for rest. This internal 24-hour cycle of biochemical, physiological, and behavioral process is referred to as the circadian rhythm, which exists in all living forms of life, from bacteria, animals, to humans.

LED light In the late ‘80s the NASA Marshall Space Flight Centre embarked on a series of light studies that continued through the last decade. The focus was the use of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) to create a photosynthesis

reaction in plants in space, with this quickly evolving to studies involving human reaction to different variations of nanometres (colours of light).

LED lights were first discovered in 1927 by a Russian named Oleg Vladimirovich Losev. However, they did not really come into common, feasible commercial use until the early ‘70s. By this time, they were extremely cheap to manufacture, required a minimal power source, could be made to be extremely bright, and had an incredible life span. As a result of these qualities, LED lights

When the light is gone, our body instantly reacts, decompresses, and prepares itself for rest.

are used today in just about every industry that requires light, from a simple indicator light to the brightest headlights on the most sophisticated vehicles on the road.

Over the years LED lights have evolved to a science in itself, with the use of many different combinations of inorganic semiconductor materials that allow for an ever-growing range of precise nanometres (colours). LED are unique in this way in that they can reproduce the natural nanometre precisely, and individually. This proved to be very useful in many industries, including the medical and aesthetic industry. For the first time, specific, controlled, clean, exact nanometres could be tested in different ways to observe specific reactions, which has led to the > evolution of LED light therapy.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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LED TECHNOLOGY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

LED and cellular energy There is no shortage of studies regarding the effectiveness of LED for a wide variety of applications ranging from wound-healing, deep muscle regeneration and acne, to fine lines and wrinkles, etc. Although there are many different variations of mechanisms of action cited, most agree that in short certain nanometres of LED delivered in specific pulse structures and power density levels have the ability to increase the body’s natural form of cellular energy known as adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Very similar to microcurrent, the right combination of LED can be used as an outside source of energy, creating a proton gradient across the mitochondria, allowing for a significant up-regulation of ATP. With more cellular energy, the body has the ability to function better, faster, and more effectively, which, in turn, results in faster healing time, faster recovery from surgical procedures, and healthier, younger-looking skin.

Four components of LED What is specific about LED technology and results are the parameters in which it is used in each study. Generally, there are four components of LED. • Wavelength or nanometre = colour; • Pulse structure or Hz = flickering; • Power density or energy = brightness of LED and the number of LEDs; • Time exposure.

Wavelength Wavelength, nanometre, and colour are essentially one and the same. We measure a wavelength in nanometres, and each colour within the visible spectrum of light is in reality a unique wavelength. Although there is a broad spectrum of colours within the visible spectrum of light, red, yellow, and blue have been studied the most extensively. This is not to say that the other colours are not effective, only that we have a limited amount of knowledge about them.

• Red light, at 640nm – 700nm, most consistently shows efficacy with wound healing, deep tissue healing, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, and the improvement of skin texture.

For us, as the skin therapist, red light is likely the number one candidate for our objective of improving the appearance of the skin and is also thought to have the most profound impact on ATP production.

• Yellow light, at 590nm, has less studies than those performed with red light, however, the few studies that exist are impressive and give great credibility to the yellow or amber light. With this being said,

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should you have a device with the capabilities, it would be strategic to expose the skin to both yellow and red light within one service.

• Green light, at 570nm is absent of studies at this time, however, anecdotally, green light has been known to help stimulate circulatory benefits, specifically lymphatic. Green light has also been said to decrease the level of melanocyte excitement lending it to be a possible tool to use with hyper-pigmented skin.

• Blue light, at 425nm – 470nm, most consistently shows efficacy with regards to acneic skin. However, its efficacy has nothing to do with ATP. Blue light has an effect on the bacteria that is the root cause of acne – P. acnes. P. acnes produces tiny molecules known as porphyrins. When porphyrins are exposed to blue light, they produce free radicals that in turn kill the bacteria P. acne, thus stopping the cycle at its base. Many studies have included red light with blue light.

Although red light has no proven efficacy to affect the P. acne bacteria, it has certainly been proven to speed up the healing process, improve the texture of the skin and decrease redness and inflammation. With that in mind, blue and red light make a great combination for an acne service.

Very similar to how different levels of microcurrent electricity can travel to different depths of human tissue,

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

LED also maintains this property. The higher the nanometre, the deeper the wavelength travels. Red travels the deepest, while blue is the most topical, which completely coincides with their efficacy and effectiveness.

Pulse structure Pulse structure, frequency, or Hz are one in the same. They represent the “flickering” of the light. What may appear to be a solid light is actually not solid at all. Rather it is a light functioning at a very high (quick) frequency that gives the human eye the perception that the light is solid. With an LED device, 80Hz - 100Hz will give you this effect.

What may appear almost like a “strobe” light, flickering at an almost unbearable rate, is likely set at 10Hz -15Hz. Pulse structure has been proven to be a significantly important factor in regards to gaining results with LED, or the lack thereof. Pulse structure is the most proprietary factor with most manufacturers, and therefore you will notice that pulse structure is usually not well-documented in clinical studies.

The studies that have documented pulse structures suggest that between 5Hz and 20Hz are the most effective.

The key is to invest in a device that has frequency options available so that you can utilise different methods of application depending on the objectives at hand, and the most recent clinical > evidence.

Although the natural elements of life seem quite simple, it is their intense organic smooth orchestration that allows this perception. In reality, they are the most complex.

Î

LED TECHNOLOGY

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Power density, energy and exposure time Power density and energy can be thought of like the different wattages of a light bulb. A 100-watt light bulb is very bright, whereas a 40-watt light bulb is much softer. Inherently the 100-watt light bulb emits significantly more energy and as a result creates a much brighter and broader illumination. Both lights will cause a reaction to the human eye. The 100watt light bulb will likely cause you to immediately look away from the light, whereas the 40-watt light bulb is quite a bit more tolerable, and would require you to be closer to the light, and look at the light significantly longer, before you found the need to look away.

With regards to LED light, it has been proven that there is an optimal dose of light, or tipping point, that allows for specific cellular reactions to take place. The confusing part of LED clinical studies is that the time exposure of applications seems to vary significantly. Although there are many reasons for the different time variations, the most prominent reason is relative to the level of power or energy that the LED device used in the study is capable of. Power density, or energy, is calculated in milliwatts per square centimetre (mW/cm2). This calculation considers the brightness or max output of each individual LED light and the number of lights per square centimetre.

Keeping the light bulb analogy above in mind, even a weak LED light would appear to be LED, however, is it really effective? To put this in perspective, let’s think about natural sunlight and Vitamin D synthesis again for a moment. One minute of summer sun exposure is not enough to gain a significant impact on your Vitamin D synthesis, whereas 30 minutes of exposure in this same environment can synthesise as much as 50 000 IUs of Vitamin D. There are a plethora of studies regarding LED. Some document the energy levels used, while other simply document the nanometre and time. If you look at the global consensus, it would suggest that most results can

with regards to LED light, it has been proven that there is an optimal dose of light, or tipping point, that allows for specific cellular reactions to take place.

be achieved with 300mW/cm2 for 7-10 minutes using a “panel” type LED device placed no further than two inches away from the skin’s surface.

Remember that, as the panel is moved further away from the skin’s surface, the energy level of the LED lights become more diluted. Most studies indicate that two services per week will maximise the results of LED and that more than three will not have a greater effect.

Panel or hand-held Panel-style LED devices are the most consistent and efficient way to apply LED to the skin. Once the device is set and the technology is in motion, you are now free to perform additional services for your client, such as a shoulder and arm massage, hand services, etc.

Handheld probes emitting LED may be effective for “spot” applications, if you have the time, however, attempting to work them around the entire face and neck would be cumbersome and time-consuming to say the least. You must also question whether you can ensure consistent exposure to every area using the hand held method.

The idea of LED technology being effective as a “guiding” light on the end of another technology hand piece such as microdermabrasion, is not

realistic at all. One single light or a small group of lights, glancing over the skin momentarily will not create a cellular reaction significant enough to gain any type of result.

In conclusion Although the natural elements of life seem quite simple, it is their intense organic smooth orchestration that allows this perception. In reality, they are the most complex. Because light itself is a necessary requirement for life, it is not surprising that we have come to realise the potential of specific wavelengths and frequencies that we can reproduce to “turn on” specific reactions in the human body. More exciting is that we have only scratched the surface of the potential of light energy at this point. It is imperative for us as skin therapists to work with LED panel style devices that allow for the broadest array of diversity with regards to nanometres, frequency range, and power density so that we can evolve our LED parameters as new science becomes available.

Light defines day, literally, and our world is based around this window of opportunity. LED is a fantastic noninvasive, natural technology available to skin therapists to battle the effects of aging and acneic skin. If you do not have LED in your business, seize the moment. PB

David Suzuki, President of Bio-Therapeutic, is an authority and expert on medical and aesthetic device manufacturing and regulatory issues. He serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, is published monthly in numerous international industry publications and journals, and presents seminars and symposiums worldwide on new technology innovations, industry regulations, and business strategies. Email: info@bio-therapeutic.com

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

COSMECEUTICALS

DO YOU HAVE THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS BUT NO SOLUTION? BODY: Spastic Colon • Irritable Bowel Syndrome Cellulite and Stretch Marks • Arthritis FACE: Acne and Breakouts • Ageing Skin Lacking Firmness Dehydrated and Devitalised Skin • Pigmentation or Age Spots is your partner in skin and body needs, offering proven results, satisified clients and an exclusive tailor-made treatment protocol designed for each client in mind.

Sole distribution of Algologie through:

To become an exclusive Algologie Salon or Spa stockist, contact us at 011 867 6869 / 011 867 7074 Sharon – 082 446 6639 / Leandri – 079 112 0887 / Velia – 082 440 5627

visit us on: www.algologie.com

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

ĂŽ

NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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NAILS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Inspired by earth’s elements

The catwalks and fashion scene are what sets the trends, inspiring nail polish brands to develop custom-made colours for the year and for each season. Sonette van Rensburg looks at the latest nail colour trends.

ABOVE: Nail therapy pigment powders can be used for nail art, to create endless designs, or added to any nail therapy gel or acrylic powder for hot seasonal colour creations.

W

ith some of the top local and international nail brands having already launched their seasonal collections, we now have a much better insight into what the hottest and latest nail and colour trends are for Autumn/Winter.

This includes some new and different nail styles and techniques, which were showcased on the runway during New York Fashion Week.

Greens Green is proving to be one of the hottest colour trends for all seasons, and is currently taking centre stage, from the coolest tones of aqua, combinations of yellow and blue-green, to daring rich jungle greens and glamorous shimmering emeralds.

What has inspired this unusual trend, shifting focus from simple nudes and pastels to daring greens? Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of

Pantone Colour Institute, had the following to share: “Symbolically, emerald green brings a sense of clarity, renewal, and rejuvenation, which is so important in today’s complex world. This powerful and appealing tone translates easily to both fashion and home interiors.”

The celebs are showing off this new dominant colour trend, so why can’t you – it is more wearable than you would think.

Lauren Conrad, well known for always sporting nothing but black nail polish, has been spotted with teal-coloured toes, while Natalie Portman was seen wearing a refreshing opaque pastel lemon shade.

Out of all the green tones, emerald was announced as being “THE” Pantone Colour of the Year for 2013. This stunningly rich hue has definitely made waves on both the beauty and fashion scene. >

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NAILS

Top nail brands have released a selection of green shades for 2013, reinterpreting and featuring richer, more jewel-toned shades of emerald and hunter green in metallics and even holographics.

Other popular colours for the season include: warmer, richer shades of purple, burgundy and brown and there are umpteen interesting and new creative ways to wear these gorgeous colours. It sure makes a daring change from the bare nudes and romantic reds, which will remain forever popular.

making its way to the city streets.

Bring on the drama

Purples

Dramatic tones of deep burgundy, navy blue, and dark metallic were included among some of the more popular colour trends for the season and it did not stop there. Very unusual velvet nails were featured in gorgeously rich colours and a moon manicure design at Ruffian.

Purples are being recognised as the new neutral – a very versatile hue that is available in a variety of tones, from the softest and palest of lilacs to juicy metallic grape and earthy, shimmering, aubergine.

Nudes and French

Blues Blues are making a debut alongside green, following closely behind the fashion and beauty colour of the year. Both these colours have successfully shifted from a softer summery polish palette to deeper, warmer Autumn/Winter hues.

French manicures have also taken on a new, unique twist. Muted or nude polish is being used as a base coat and tips polished in something more dramatic, like red or black.

Another interesting way to wear this age-old trend is to paint the nails, leaving the bottom clear or muted, creating a reverse French look.

Browns and earthy tones

Accents

You can never go wrong with classic red — it’s bold, sexy, and the perfect accent to your winter wardrobe. Nothing says fabulously festive quite like a cranberrycoloured nail varnish. Keep it chic and sophisticated with a creamy finish, or get a little playful with a sparkly shade. >

Bolder colour combinations are predicted to be on-trend all year, jet-black nails accented with brilliant green designs were shown at the Nicole Miller show in New York – a trend that caught on fast,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Brown is no longer seen as drab and boring.

Think of delicious and decadent chocolaty tones to add a touch of warmth and elegance to your fingertips.

Reds

NSI Polish Pro Gala collection has included the hottest colour trends of the season, from rich, warm and vibrant to soft and natural shades.

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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NAILS

Taupe nails

Metallics

Whether matt or glossy, taupe always seems to make a comeback and be on trend. This colour is just so wearable and suits any length and shape of nails.

Metallics made it big on the catwalks last year and are certainly making a comeback, with richer, bolder colours available in every possible shade from bold gold to metallic blue, shimmering green and rich ruby.

Orangey-red nails This seems to be one trend that will be around forever. Orangey-red as well as classic scarlet nail polish colours are suitable for almost every occasion; however they tend to look best on shorter nails.

Glow in the dark Even glow in the dark nail polish has hit the nail polish scene in a variety of fun eye-catching colours – absolutely perfect for black night parties.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

ICE BOX colours goes all out for the season with ranges of rich, bold metallics and 3D holographics, featuring greens, blues, rich purples, golds, deep burgundy and wine red.

Pigment powders This is a popular new nail product that can be added to nail enhancement systems and products to create an assortment of colours and trends. PB

Inspired by the natural sculptures of the earth, the Spa Rituals Rock Collection for Fall offers a palette of colours that range from hot molten lava to cool streaked granite.

Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

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SAY HELLO TO THE BELLABACI MASSAGE

The perfect system for professional eyelash and eyebrow tinting

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MEDICAL AESTHETICS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic

predictions 2013 The aesthetic industry is continually growing and evolving.

Karen Ellithorne looks at the trends and consults industry experts on their predictions for the year ahead.

1 Filler techniques

Dr Natasha Begg-Spiro from Laserderm, who recently attended the world’s 10th Anti-ageing Medicine Congress in Monaco, says that the trend when assessing patients who are indicated for dermal fillers will be more with an eye to restore volume than merely eradicating wrinkles.

Restoring volume can erase years from a patient’s face. Doctors need to recognise and appreciate that it is possible to turn an attractive woman into a beautiful woman, with the correct filler technique.

“Another big theme for 2013, as far as fillers are concerned, is Ethnic Beautification. Despite ethnic characteristics, beautiful women are beautiful women, they all have similar characteristics that are considered attractive in any country in the world.

An aesthetic practitioner needs to know how to recognise and enhance certain features, whilst retaining a person’s ethnic characteristics,” says Begg-Spiro.

Alternative uses 2 for botulinum toxins continues to grow The International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPAM) reports that some physicians are now using neuromodulators

(Botox and Dysport) to reshape the face, instead of strictly for wrinkle treatment. Neuromodulator treatment can shrink excess facial muscles in women, which would otherwise make them appear more masculine.

In 2013, more and more uses for Botox and other botulinum neurotoxins will be discovered and applied, from sialorrhea or excessive salivation to temporomandibular disorders.

3 PRP and stem cells

According to IAPAM, 2013 is going to see Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy and stem cell-enriched treatments evolving and making a big comeback. They say that PRP therapy will become more mainstream as its popularity grows. They also predict that the cost of the treatments will be reduced to meet the price range of dermal fillers and Botox.

in superficial 4 Advances and medium-depth skin-peeling Skin-peeling treatments are going to continue growing in popularity in 2013, with the introduction of more advanced combinations of active ingredients. Peels are not only going to include the classic AHAs and BHAs, namely glycolic, lactic, malic and salicylic acids, but are going to be enhanced to improve the benefits, especially in the treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation acids. In 2013, you can expect to find the inclusion of additional ingredients like arbutin, kojic acid, retinol and l-ascorbic acid to name a few.

cosmeceutical 5 New products

Following the success and popularity >

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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of the revolutionary Asia-founded “BB cream” or blemish base, which is an all-in-one treatment that is used to treat and conceal skin photo-ageing conditions, such as sunspots and age spots, and also acne. This all-in-one product has the function of being a serum, moisturiser, foundation and sun block, while having an anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin.

It is expected that we are going to see a growth in this all-in-one concept, with the addition of new multifunctional cosmeceutical products that will be able to treat additional conditions and flaws on the skin other than those mentioned above.

6

Laser evolution

The treatment of darker skin types with laser has always been challenging, but it is always in high demand, with many of the type IVVI skin types suffering the most with hyperpigmentation. According to Jacques Pretorius from Radiant Healthcare, two ways of overcoming the limitations of laser-only-based devices are to add radio frequency or use it on its own. This is a new trend that is going to continue to grow in 2013.

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MEDICAL AESTHETICS

from taking place in the skin and are a vital tool to get optimal results both pre- and post-treatment. In 2013, you will see a trend of new cosmeceutical products being launched which contain ingredients that can protect the skin, not only from UVA and UVB rays, but also IR-A rays.

8 Combination, combination, combination Combining a combination of skin rejuvenation therapies in order to achieve optimum results is growing in popularity in 2013. Patients are not only receiving skin peels but peels combined with CIT (collagen induction therapy), mesotherapy, specialised cosmeceutical facials, laser treatments, dermal fillers and Botox in order to achieve maximum treatment benefits.

This combining of treatments is playing a huge role in the relationship between aestheticians and aesthetic doctors as it enables the patient to achieve superior, longer-lasting results. The benefit is that the doctor’s time is freed up to be able to see more patients and the aesthetician is able to do stronger, more results-driven aesthetic treatments, as she is under the supervision of the doctor.

7 Anti-oxidants

As we spend more and more time in front of computers and I pads, the importance of daily protection of our skin from the deep-penetrating IR-A rays is becoming more and more important. IR-A rays cause the formation of free radicals in the dermis, diminish the skin’s anti-oxidant capacity and increase the production of matrix metalloproteinase-1(MMP-1).

MMP-1 is a naturally occurring enzyme found in the skin that breaks down the older collagen fibres that are no longer required. On exposure to IR-A radiation, MMP-1 starts to break down the healthy new collagen in the skin, causing wrinkles, loss of elasticity and reduced firmness. Anti-oxidants play a key role in preventing this action

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treatments (8-10 treatments) in order to obtain good results. The other body treatment that is in demand is that of painless hair removal. “This trend will continue to grow,” says Pretorius.

Social media and 10 the aesthetic

practice With the continual growth of social media it is becoming more and more important for aesthetic clinics to offer exceptional service. Patients will Google doctors and also visit the practice’s Facebook page before coming in for a consultation to find out more about the doctor and the practice.

“Social media is now also a great medium to inexpensively (often at no cost) offer patients promotions and educate them on the procedures provided at one’s clinic. Having a practice Facebook page is a must have for any medical or cosmetic practice,” says the director of IAPAM.

11 Quality in aesthetics body 9 Aesthetic treatments

The phenomenon of “fat-freezing” to remove stubborn fat, and cavitation to remove cellulite will continue to grow in popularity in 2013. Cryolypolisis or fat-freezing provides a 20%-60% improvement after 2-3 treatments, whilst cavitation requires slightly more

On the back of the PIP breast implant scandal, there has been a loss of trust in the aesthetic industry, with the public becoming more wary and discerning. Dr Natasha Begg-Spiro says as aesthetic practitioners in 2013 we need to ensure that we are upto-date with the latest products and techniques and that doctors are able to offer advice to patients based on sound knowledge and sound ethical principles. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions and Aesthetimed. In conjunction with Sally Durant Training and Consultancy UK, she also offers a range of internationally certified training courses, specifically for aesthetic practitioners, beauty therapists and nurses. Email: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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PRODUCT NEWS

online at www.probeauty.co.za

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

Fresh caviar Ericson Laboratoire Fresh Caviar Revival Night treatment consists of two products that are highly concentrated in Sturgeon Caviar, creating a substance which is assimilated by the skin tissues to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I, increase the synthesis of collagen III, and activate the synthesis of fibronectin. The Ultra-Rich Cream tightens the underlying skin structure for a firming and antiwrinkle effect, while the Precious Elixir repairs the damage suffered daily by the skin from external stress.

In order to preserve the total effectiveness of the active ingredients it is best to store these products in the refrigerator (+4˚C) before and after use.

011 783 9817

Freshen up

All wrapped up The UK’s Harley Wrap has launched in SA with its weight-reducing, detoxifying and toning benefits. The secret behind the Harley Wrap system is a combination of its wrapping method and formulation. The treatment begins with dry brushing; a practice used to open the pores, increase circulation and eliminate toxins from the body. Dry brushing also removes dead skin cells, allowing all the beneficial ingredients of the treatment to penetrate the skin. The Harley Wrap Natural Body Wrap Gel is then massaged into problem areas. In comparison to traditional mud, the wrap is developed using aloe vera, which makes for a far cleaner application and removal of product. This key ingredient enhances the wrap’s ability to reduce cellulite, decrease overall body size, and energise the body; it also improves the immune system and boosts metabolism.

086 198 8890

Clean skin Six Flawless Cleansing Oil is enriched with Vitamin E to dissolve make-up, sunblock, pollution and any excess oil build-up. Formulated to achieve a milky emulsion on contact with water, this soft cleansing oil contains the anti-bacterial, protective and detoxifying properties of orange peel oil; the softening and moisturising effects of apricot kernel oil; and the anti-ageing, soothing and toning benefits of grapefruit peel oil.

011 312 7840

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

Bisousoleil launches Revitalising on-call moisture facial spritzer to cool the skin and alleviate dehydration caused by sun or air-conditioned environments. This refreshingly fragranced spritzer, inspired by D&G, includes a mild astringent, which also helps relieve minor skin irritations caused by acne.

083 235 5538

PRODUCT NEWS

Wax at home Waxing Direct introduces Eve’s Natural Waxing Kit for home use. The kit contains a microwavable wax that is easy to peel off is ideally suited to sensitive areas, such as lips, eyebrows, underarm, bikini, back, chest and tummy, and a 50ml Vanilla post-waxing lotion to soothe and keep the skin hydrated.

This retail product was launched specifically for salons to generate extra income. It provides clients with a professional alternative to purchasing home waxing kits from major shopping outlets.

031Â 264 1210

Foot focus Medi-heel has introduced a Spa Additive to complement its already existing range of products. Containing tea tree, eucalyptus and rosemary oil, this product not only hydrates tired feet, but also increases blood circulation and features anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.

Only one teaspoon is required per treatment, immediately softening the water for a pleasurable and effective foot spa experience.

021 553 2309

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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s o u t h a f r i c a n a ss o c i a t i o n o f h e a l t h a n d s k i n c a re p ro f e s s i o n a l s Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 275 0516, Fax: 011 513 3085, Design Quarter, Nicol Grove Office Park, Leslie Road, Fourways, 2055

President’s report

Tribute to Mary Abel

by Menna Kleine

The year is in full swing and SAAHSP wishes everyone a very successful 2013.

This year has very exciting things in store for SAAHSP and we will ensure that we keep all stakeholders up to date.

Congratulations to all the students who passed their SAAHSP examinations. Here is the list of all the top students: Top Overall National Student Tarryn Jane Hyde 82% Camelot Houghton Top National Distinction Students Ami Mari Parrott Camelot Cape Town

81%

80%

Charne Marais Isa Carstens Academy

76%

Raynette Colleen Camelot Cape Town

80%

Mia van Heerden Isa Carstens Academy

76%

Biance Capcan

79%

Tarin Anne Hodges Isa Carstens Academy

76%

Sunel Leach Dermatech

79%

Angelique Rademeyer Isa Carstens Academy

76%

Alicia Venter

Carla Fourie Camelot East Rand

75%

Natalie Forster Camelot Namibia

75%

International Academy, Sandton

International Academy Cape Town

Caroline Spencer International Academy Cape Town

78%

Homairaj Miajee Camelot Durban

77%

Johanna Peyper Isa Carstens Academy

75%

Kauthar Soeker

77%

Natasha Nel Potch Akademie

75%

International Academy Cape Town

Kim Thomson Beauty Therapy Institute

Liandri Pretorius Potch Akademie

75%

76%

Mary started her career late in life.

She was married with four children, and, when the youngest was five years old, she started a part-time course in beauty culture.

She juggled managing a home, raising her children and completing her training. Her grades and enthusiasm reflected her love for the subject, and before long she had secured a position as lecturer at the Johannesburg Technical College.

She attended seminars regularly, and, with her thirst for knowledge, she acquired countless certificates testifying to her ability and skill.

After retiring from her teaching role, she opened a salon at the brave age of sixty and continued to minister to her faithful clients for many years thereafter.

Mary held herself with dignity at all times and was a beacon to her students, colleagues and clients.

Every client will remember her healing hands which perfected an excellent manicure, pedicure, facial massage or eyebrow tint.

Mary may have started her career late, but she certainly finished with flair; recognised as a doyen in the beauty industry.

Sanguine College graduation 2012 The graduation festivities took place at the Hyatt Regency hotel at the Oubaai resort. Many achievement awards were

handed out to students, with the college’s top student receiving two top achiever awards from SAAHSP.

The Nail Guru becomes first SAAHSP Recognised Nail Centre The Nail Guru was excited to announce its recent accolade as the first SAAHSP Recognised Nail Centre in South Africa. Situated in Durban North, KZN, the facility offers professional nail treatments (Cuccio manicures, pedicures, angelic nails, acrylic nails, minx nails, eye lash extensions and facial waxing), monthly short training courses (nail

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technology, manicure & pedicure, eyelash extensions, make up, waxing, threading and massage technique workshops) and nail/beauty supplies.

The courses are designed to give women the skills to open their own business.

“My passion is nails,” said owner Chantelle Prince, “and I’m passionate about sharing my knowledge with others”.

Professional Beauty March/April 2013

Successful 2012 results at Potchefstroom Academy

Left to right: Madeleine Botha (nail technician), Chantelle Prince (owner), and Anny Naicker (receptionist).

At Potchefstroom Academy and SAAHST a record number of students were enrolled for the SAAHSP practical examinations 2012. The examiner from SAAHSP was Lisa Sham. CIDESCO examinations were conducted by Joma de Roos from Amsterdam. All the students passed their practical examinations. CIDESCO Spa examinations were attended by almost all the third-year students.

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PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

Sunbed Spares & Services Sole Importer of and Sunbeds Repairs to all makes of sunbeds SupplierS of: CAlTAN Tanning lotions

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Professional Beauty March/April 2013

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